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NATURAL

GLOW:
Nutraceuticals for
Skin Health

Scientific validation can help move ingestible skin health products


from niche to mainstream.

By Lisa Olivo
Associate Editor

N
ourishing skin and preserv- more aware and accepting of beauty from Transparency Market Research reported
ing good looks isnt just about within. Those well-informed consumers sales of nutricosmeticswhich it defined
topical treatment anymore. As are seeking premium ingredients backed as oral nutraceuticals for skin, hair and
more consumers make the connection by scientific evidence. nailsearned $3.36 billion globally in
between nutrition and external health Lara Niemann, marketing director, 2013. The market is expected to grow at
and beauty they are increasingly turn- Americas for GELITA USA, Sergeant a CAGR of 11.5% from 2014 to 2020 to
ing to dietary supplements and other Bluff, IA, also underscored the importance reach $7.16 billion in 2020.
preventive care products. of clinically proven efficacy within the
The U.S. beauty market has tradi- natural skin health category.With todays
tionally been driven by topical skin care consumers being better educated on the This article in a nutshell:
products such as lotions and creams, said correlation between nutrition and health,
Anti-Aging & Beauty
Sbastien Bornet, vice president of global they are also becoming more interested in Sun Damage
sales and marketing at Geneva, Switzer- understanding how beauty-from-within Skin Conditions
land-based Horphag Research, the exclu- products work, she said. This means Failure to Launch
consumers will favor products with the Emerging Opportunities
sive worldwide supplier of Pycnogenol
Innovative Introductions
French maritime pine bark extract. Re- greatest amount of scientific research and
cently however, American consumers are substantiation to support them.

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Natural Glow: Nutraceuticals for Skin Health

Golan Raz, vice president of the health trolled trial, 114 women aged 45-65 years
and nutrition division at Lycored, South were randomized to receive 2.5 grams of
Orange, NJ, suggested, We have not VERISOL or placebo once daily for eight
scratched the surface of the ingestible skin weeks. After four weeks of treatment, the
care market. With new ingredients and VERISOL group showed a significantly
finished products being introduced, and reduced eye wrinkle volume of more than
further scientific research bolstering the 7% on average, with more noticeable im-
category, the market for ingestible skin provement after eight weeks. Four weeks
care is continuing to evolve. following supplementation, the VERISOL
Bella Berrys all-natural beauty beverage in the group still showed a decrease in eye wrin-
U.K. contains antioxidant vitamins, minerals kle volume by 11.5%.
Anti-Aging & Beauty and collagen.
Rousselot, Son, Netherlands, produces
Turning back the hands of time is a primary Niemann noted, have a unique amino its own collagen peptides under its Pep-
motivator for many consumers using skin acid composition, which influences the tan brand. Backed by three clinical trials,
care products. Aging can affect the epider- skins collagen metabolism directly from Peptan was found to increase skin hydra-
mis in a variety of ways, including but not the inside. tion by 28% after eight weeks, as well as
limited to loss of elasticity, wrinkles and Recently, two clinical studies demon- minimize micro-relief furrows by 26%
fine lines, loss of moisture and discolor- strated the effects of VERISOL on skin with supplementation during a 12-week
ation. Numerous natural ingredients can elasticity and wrinkle reduction. The first study. In a clinical study by France-based
help troubleshoot the onslaught of issues study was designed to verify the effective- COSderma, Peptan F (fish origin collagen
brought on by age, as well as prevent such ness of VERISOL collagen peptides on peptides) was shown to reduce collagen
symptoms in younger users. biophysical skin parameters related to cu- fragmentation by 31% after 12 weeks of
GELITAs Ms. Niemann described the taneous aging. This randomized, double- supplementation, benefiting the collagen
natural process that changes skin with age, blind, placebo-controlled trial, included 69 network of the skin and contributing to an
leading to thinning, sagging and wrin- women aged 35-55 who received either 2.5 anti-aging effect.
kling. From the age of about 30 onward, grams of VERISOL, 5 grams of VERISOL or Another ingredient known for sup-
the performance of skin cells called fibro- a placebo once daily for eight weeks. Each porting younger looking skin is meth-
blasts deteriorates and collagen synthesis treatment group included 23 subjects. ylsulfonylmethane, or MSM. MSM has
is reduced. Consequently, the skin suffers Skin elasticity in both VERISOL groups long been recognized as a beauty mineral
a loss of moisture and becomes increas- showed a statistically significant improve- primarily due to its sulfur content, noted
ingly dry. However, she said that healthy ment in comparison to the placebo group Rodney Benjamin, director of research and
lifestyle choices and good skin care could after only four weeks of treatment. In development and technical support for
minimize the signs of aging, leading to a some women, a maximum increase in skin Bergstrom Nutrition, Vancouver, WA.
smoother, more youthful appearance. elasticity of up to 30% was observed after While anecdotal evidence supports the
Collagen, she explained, plays a critical the eight-week treatment period. Inter- ingredients benefits, Mr. Benjamin sug-
role in the maintenance of healthy skin.It estingly, Ms. Niemann commented, the gested that strong scientific evidence for
is produced in the deeper layer of the skin, positive impact of VERISOL treatment on MSM has been lacking. In response, Berg-
the dermis, along with elastin and pro- skin elasticity was more pronounced in strom Nutrition has spent the last year
teoglycans. Together, these molecules are women aged 50 years plus. With regard performing studies on its MSM ingredient,
essential for skin elasticity and resistance. to skin moisture and skin evaporation, OptiMSM, to better substantiate its effica-
Collagen, in particular, is what gives the the collagen peptide treatments positive cy for personal care and ingestible nutra-
skin its firm structure. influence was also seen among this age ceuticals for skin health. Recent studies,
While topical collagen is well known group.The positive effect on skin elastic- pending publication, have suggested that
for its temporary effects on wrinkle reduc- ity was still detectable at the end of the the OptiMSM brand of MSM has signifi-
tion, ingestible collagen provides a way for four-week washout phase, she added, cant efficacy in the area of personal care,
consumers to replenish the natural supply suggesting a long-lasting dermal physi- Mr. Benjamin said.We have recently con-
that depletes with age. GELITAs ingredi- ological effect. cluded studies for both oral and topical
ent VERISOL is comprised of natural col- A second study verified the efficacy of applications that indicate significant ef-
lagen peptides that have been specifically VERISOL on wrinkle reduction and syn- ficacy corroborated by multiple methods
developed to provide the highest possible thesis of important dermal matrix compo- of evaluation. The depth of the evidence
efficacy in human skin, according to the nents including type I collagen, elastin and compiled is quite compelling and we are
company. These collagen peptides, Ms. fibrillin. In a double-blind, placebo-con- excited to be able to share details of the

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Natural Glow: Nutraceuticals for Skin Health

elasticity and selectively bind to collagen COL1A1 by 29%, COL1A2 by 41% and hy-
and elastin to reduce the appearance of aluronic acid production by 44%. Elasticity
fine lines and wrinkles, said Mr. Bornet of the skin improved by 25%, and skin hy-
of Horphag Research.In addition, Pycno- dration by 8%. Women with especially dry
genol stimulates hyaluronic acid and col- skin at the start of the study saw increased
lagen production in human skin. moisture by 21%. Lastly, there was a noted
A 2012 study on Pycnogenol demon- decrease in skin fatigue and a reduction of
strated the extracts ability to reduce the wrinkles, by 3% and 6%, respectively.
visible signs of aging. The clinical trial Qubec-based Fruit Dor is harness-
published in the journal Skin Pharmacol- ing the power of its proprietary cranberry
ogy and Physiology examined 20 healthy seed oil ingredient for use in skin health
women ages 55-68 years, who were ad- formulas and anti-aging supplements.
ZSS Skincare combines dietary supplements with ministered 75 mg of Pycnogenol for 12 The company is extending the benefits of
a topical solution to offer a synergistic weeks. The participants were evaluated cranberry outside of urinary tract health
approach to beauty.
at six and 12 weeks for changes in skin with its new ingredient under the name
results publically in the near future. hydration, skin elasticity and skin fatigue. Cran Bella. A highly unsaturated oil, Cran
The standardized natural extract of the Additionally, at the start of the study, and Bella consists of 85% fatty acids, with a 1:1
French maritime pine bark, Pycnogenol, at 12 weeks, a biopsy was taken to exam- ratio of omega-3 to omega-6, in addition
similarly offers benefits for both topical ine gene expression of HAS-1 (Hyaluro- to omega-9s. The cold-pressed extraction
and oral applications for skin care. Pyc- nan synthase 1 enzyme) and COL1A1 and process keeps the natural antioxidants
nogenol has been shown to increase COL1A2 (collagen type I and II proteins). abundant in cranberry seed oil intact. The
skins hydration (water content), improve Results found that Pycnogenol increased company also noted the ingredients high

In the Next Issue of


Nutraceuticals World

Herbs & Botanicals

Healthy
Beverage Trends

Flavors

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Natural Glow: Nutraceuticals for Skin Health

concentration of polyphenolsanthocya- nosic acid from natural rosemary, the for- oped the ingredient NutroxSun, which
nins, tocopherols and tocotrienolsthat mula is a year-round, scientifically devel- also protects the skin from the sun by
aid in the reversal of and protection from oped, skin health promoter, which will soon combining rosemary (Rosmarinus offici-
UV-mediated skin damage. be sold under the NovaHue brand.Lyc-O- nalis) and grapefruit (Citrus paradisi) ex-
Derm was tested in clinical trials and was tracts. A 2014 trial published in The Journal
proven to enhance skin health, reduce UV of Photochemistry and Photobiology supple-
Sun Damage mented healthy volunteers with 250 mg of
The damaging light emitted from the sun NutroxSun daily, and compared changes
can wreak havoc on the skin. The most in the minimal erythema dose (MED). The
dangerous threat is ultraviolet radiation MED is the threshold dose of UV that may
(UVR), which is a proven human carcino- inhibit sunburn. Results found the supple-
gen. According to a 2005 study published ment significantly increased protection,
in the Journal of the American Medical As- growing the MED 34% by day 57 and 56%
sociation (JAMA), approximately one in by day 85 of the trial.
five Americans will develop skin cancer in Additionally, early results from a recent-
their lifetime. Statistics from the American ly conducted large-scale clinical trial show
Journal of Preventive Medicine (2014) re- NutroxSun offers significant sun protec-
ported that 5 million people in the U.S. tion and anti-aging benefits. Subjects in
are treated annually for skin cancer. the trial were found to have better re-
While sunscreen is a well known and sistance against sunburn, increased skin
important tool for protecting skin from elasticity, reduced skin wrinkle depths
the sun, dietary supplements can also and decreased oxidation of skin cells.
offer support. In fact, some research Antioxidants such as those from ma-
has suggested that topical creams alone qui berry also help protect the skin from
may not offer the full protection need- sun damage, according to Annie Eng,
ed; most people only apply sunscreen at CEO, HP Ingredients, Bradenton, FL.
a quarter of the 2 mg per square cm that The companys Maqui Superberry of-
is recommended (Journal of the Ameri- fers benefits for youthful skin, in addi-
can Academy Of Dermatology, 2010). At tion to protection from oxidative stress,
this inadequate amount, someone using she said. As one of the highest-ORAC
an SPF 50 sunscreen will only get 25% berries and fruits found in nature, ma-
protection. qui has been shown to quench five
We leverage sunscreens during ex- free radicals known to cause damage:
posure from the sun on vacations and hyroxyl, peroxyl, peroxynitrite, singlet
beach days to prevent skin damage, oxygen and superoxide anion, as shown
but most sun exposure is incidental to through the Total ORAC Test.
daily living, noted Mr. Raz of Lycored. Maqui Superberry is distinctive,
In fact, its estimated that 80% of lifetime she continued, as it goes through our
sun exposure is incidental, leaving the skin proprietary enzyme and ultra-filtration
vulnerable to damage for significant por- process to ensure its activespolyphe-
tions of time (The British Journal of Der- Nature Made VitaMelts Fast Melting Tablets for nols and anthocyanins, particularly del-
matology, 2007). Adding a digestible skin hair, skin and nails contain biotin and vitamin C. phinidin (80% of maquis anthocyanin
care technology to the daily diet may help content)are intact. The berry shields
to reduce molecular markers of photo- related skin damage and protect the DNA cells from oxidative stress from the sun,
aging, inflammation and oxidative stress. from photo-damage, said Mr. Raz. Lyc- and also has an ability to reduce inflam-
These markers and others are directly re- O-Derm offers a dietary approach based matory response, she added.
lated to skin aging, beauty, as well as sun- on UV absorption over a broad range of
light related skin diseases. wavelengths and on intracellular control of
Lycoreds Lyc-O-Derm ingredient pro- oxidative stress, signaling and inflamma- Skin Conditions
vides protection from the sun from the in- tion for continual whole-body, endogenous Nutraceutical solutions can also be benefi-
side out, according to the company. Made photo-protection. cial for a variety of skin conditions, ranging
from whole fruit tomato extract and car- Spain-based Monteloeder has devel- from eczema, to psoriasis to general dryness.

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Natural Glow: Nutraceuticals for Skin Health

Horphag Research recently invested in who did use steroid creams reported a re- had not met the development expected by
a study that demonstrated Pycnogenols duction in reliance on it (10% of children both partners. Neither partner was able to
benefits for psoriasis, which Mr. Bornet used steroid cream vs. 32% in the placebo get the European Food Safety Authority
stated is the most prevalent autoimmune group). Additionally, scientists found a (EFSA) to grant it approval to make per-
disease in the U.S. A recent study found significant decrease in a certain subset formance claims that may have bolstered
the super-antioxidant effective to signifi- of activated T cells potentially associated the brands appeal. EFSA reportedly re-
cantly improve symptoms of psoriasis in- with AD. jected a claim that it helps to improve dry
cluding redness, skin hardening and flak- skin condition.
ing without side effects,Mr. Bornet noted.
The 2014 study published in Panminerva Failure to Launch
Medica, found that after 12 weeks of sup- While the list of ingredients indicated for Emerging Opportunities
plementation Pycnogenol decreased the skin health is growing, the market for in- Despite some major brands faltering in
area of skin affected by psoriasis by 20% gestible beauty formulas is still trying to the skin health space, Mr. Vierhile still sees
compared to standard management. Fur- gain its footing, according to Tom Vierhile, some areas of significant potential. Sur-
thermore, the supplement increased wa- innovation insights director, Datamoni- vey results from Datamonitor Consumers
ter content in all areas of the skin; reduced tor Consumer, New York, NY. Slumping 2013 global survey point to specific demo-
the need for pharmaceuticals; and sig- sales and commercial flops within the last graphics that could pave the way for the
nificantly reduced oxidative stress, which several years have cast some doubt on markets further growth.
plays a role in the inflammation associated whether ingestible beauty formulas will In the survey, consumers were asked if
with psoriasis. every truly go mainstream. they would buy a food or beverage that
Beneficial bacteria from probiotics can As for the sector itself, beauty from improves your appearance using func-
also provide support for atopic dermati- within is much better known for its sales tional ingredients (e.g., collagen, vitamins),
tis, or eczema. Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a failures than its sales successes, Mr. Vier- Mr. Vierhile explained. Globally, 34% of
common skin condition that affects 20% hile quipped. Probably the best known consumers said yes, definitely, but the
of pre-school children and about 1 in 20 failure was Nestles Glowelle product, news was which groups showed the high-
adults, according to Lallemand Health So- which was launched in September 2008 est level of interest. Women are more keen
lutions, Montreal, Quebec, Canada. and later pulled in February 2011. You on the concept than men, and women that
A 2010 study conducted at National probably could not have picked a worse choose organic foods and drinks are even
Medical University, Kiev, Ukraine, found time in the last 50 years to launch a prod- more likely to embrace the concept. Ac-
that the companys Lacidofil probiotic in- uct than right at the beginning of the ceptance was even higher among consum-
gredient had a significant effect on AD se- Great Recession. The product was sold ers under the age of 45, he noted. While
verity, as well as the need and duration of though high-end department stores like 39% of women in the 35-44 year old age
pharmaceutical use in its treatment. These Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman group said yes, definitely they would buy
results reaffirmed a previous study indi- and was pricey (bottles of the drink were a food or drink product that improves ap-
cating Lacidofils efficacy in reducing AD $7 apiece), but it lacked credibility to en- pearance using functional ingredients, that
severity and improving quality of life in- courage consumers to pay that premium figure rose to 52% when the group of fe-
dices in young patients and their parents. and take a chance on beauty from within. male respondents was restricted to those
The randomized trial evaluated 58 chil- Similarly, he cited Danones Essensis who choose organic foods and drinks most
dren under the age of four with atopic yogurt, which debuted in France in 2007 of the time or all of the time.
dermatitis and cow milk allergy. Subjects but was discontinued in early 2009. The Mr. Bornet of Horphag also suggested
were administered an emollient cream yogurt contained probiotic strains, antiox- women of a younger age bracket are ex-
and bath preparation. Additionally, 33 of idants from green tea, omega-6 fatty acids pressing more interest in products for
the children received a Lacidofil prepa- from borage oil and vitamin E, and claimed skin care. The market has traditionally
ration (a combination of Lactobacillus benefits for beauty and skin health. Mr. Vi- been driven by women above 35, he said.
Rosell-11 and Lactobacillus Rosell-52, In- erhile suggested the products premium However, he referenced a report from
stitut Rosell-Lallemand), equivalent to 2 price and unproven benefits contributed NPD Group, Inc., Port Washington, NY,
billion probiotic bacteria, for one month to its downfall. which pointed to an increase in engage-
or placebo. A more recent product offering from ment from both men and women in their
Findings showed the probiotic group LOreal and Nestle was the Inneov sup- mid-20s who are looking to develop a skin
experienced a marked reduction in AD se- plement, which debuted in 2002 in Eu- care regimen. Millennials are looking to
verity, even in those participants who did rope but was abandoned last year. The combat problems such as oily skin and
not use the steroid creams. The children epitaph for that effort read that Inneov acne, in addition to preventing wrinkles

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Natural Glow: Nutraceuticals for Skin Health

and skin damage from the sun, according subjects compared the use of the serum that versatility is essential in this market.
to NPD Group. and supplements, alone or in combina- When launching new products it seems
Mai Nygaard, global director of Peptan tion, against placebo. At two weeks, par- that multiple delivery formats have the
for Rousselot, also observed this younger ticipants reported improved moisture and most potential, he said. Take the recent
audience tuning in to the skin health mes- hydration; and at four weeks there was a success of Vega powders, drinks, supple-
sage.Whats interesting, she said,is that reduction in blemishes. At six weeks there ments and meal replacements as a perfect
we now see a trend where nutricosmetics was an improvement in overall appear- example. The delivery format needs to be
are starting to be used more and more by ance, texture/smoothness and the appear- easy to use. It is the consumer that drives
younger people in their 20s and 30s, be- ance of pores. At eight weeks, participants the delivery, not the brand. He also noted
cause they want to prevent skin aging. This saw improvement in glow and radiance, the company is considering incorporat-
is actually a trend that was established in complexion health, appearance of lines ing OptiMSM into topical applications, as
Asia many years ago. In fact, Japanese and wrinkles, and skin tone, as well as a well as the combined benefits of both an
women have always been taking supple- statistically significant improvement in oral and topical regimen.
ments since they were really young. texture/smoothness. Week 12 showed im- While many beauty from within prod-
She added that while the nutricosmetic provement in the appearance of spots, as ucts are currently in the form of tablets
audience consists mainly of women, some well as a statistically significant improve- or powders, GELITA is working together
men are beginning to express interest in ment in glow/radiance, texture/smooth- with the industry in ready-to-drink for-
the category as well. For example, Rous- ness, and the appearance of skin tone. mulations as well as gummy delivery, both
selots collagen peptides were included in Innovative delivery formats also offer of which lend themselves well to promot-
Active Gold Collagen, a nutraceutical shot appeal to consumers. Mr. Vierhile pointed ing consumer compliance due to portabil-
for men. The inclusion of Peptan allowed to a new confectionery style supplement ity and convenience,noted Ms. Niemann.
the marketers to position the product for Lotte B Can Candy that contains hyal- The companys collagen ingredient has
skin health, in addition to supporting car- uronic acid and is sold in a plastic tube been featured in a variety of beauty for-
tilage production and exercise recovery. that looks like a container of lotion. Avail- mulas, including Reservage Collagen Re-
able in Japan, Mr. Vierhile explained, The plenish powder and soft chews; Swanson
idea with the package is to make taking Beauty Drink in stick packs; as well as
Innovative Introductions the product more discreet while at the BBGlo Skin Rejuvenation Collagen Drink,
In spite of the shaky track record consum- same time encouraging the consumer to among others.
able beauty products have had in recent make the connection that the product en- London-based Bella Berry has devel-
years, interesting offerings are still making hances skin health. oped a beauty drink line in the U.K. that
their way to store shelves. Many of the new Drinks, melting tablets (e.g., Nature is said to be the worlds first yummy col-
introductions are playing to the aforemen- Made VitaMelts) and gummies are other lagen drink, Mr. Vierhile noted. He sug-
tioned consumer trends and preferences. relatively new formats that are trending, gested that this approachable introduction
For example, ZSS Skincare is a combi- Mr. Vierhile added. Melting tablets may is a step in the right direction if ingestible
nation of supplements comprised of natu- be the most unique of the bunch, but most beauty products want to attract a substan-
ral ingredients paired with a synergistic have been around for a while. The gummy tial audience. The idea is to promote the
topical solution. The line features Radiant format, for one, is not that new, but is defi- product as something that can be used to
Skin Method No. 1, which promotes anti- nitely gaining momentum. replace a soft drink or a bottle of water. Im
aging and protection from environmental Nature Made VitaMelts Fast Melting also bullish on innovation coming out of
and sun damage on the skin, with ingredi- Supplement Tablets debuted in a Hair- the fresh juice market, as there seems to
ents such as zeaxanthin, alpha lipoic acid, Skin-Nails variant in the U.S., featuring be quite a bit of innovation there, includ-
seabuckthorn fruit oil and gotu kola seed. a strawberry lemonade flavor. The melts ing green drinks with green, leafy vegeta-
Clear Skin Method No. 2 formula is de- include biotin and vitamin C, and are for- bles like spinach that support skin health.
signed to reduce redness, blemishes, pore mulated to support healthy hair, skin and Despite the new and exciting product
visibility and health, and overall radiance nails and are made with naturally derived offerings popping up internationally, Mr.
and tone. The combination topical and colors. The free from claims, in addition Vierhile believes more science is needed to
supplement system includes zeaxanthin, to a convenient delivery alternative for further substantiate ingestible skin health
probiotics and marine lipids. those suffering from pill fatigue make products, in order for them to truly go
Additionally, ZSS recently unveiled the supplement an innovative alternative, mainstream. Until that changes, ingest-
a study demonstrating the efficacy of said Mr. Vierhile. ible skin health is likely a niche market,
its Clear Skin Method No. 2 formula. A Tim Hammond, vice president of sales though one with promise and innovation
randomized, controlled evaluation of 52 and marketing for Bergstrom, suggested potential. NW

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