FR

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ISSN 1853-9610

N85 JUNE - JULY 2017

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w w w. w i n e - r e p u b l i c . c o m
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 CONTENTS
News Republic Out & About
Evening Wine Tours................................................. 6 Bars............................................................................... 22
Risky Business............................................................. 6 Dining out.................................................................. 24
Winery Guide........................................................... 26
The Fast Resorts
Argentinas ski resorts have something for Maps & More
everyone........................................................................ 8 Useful information.................................................. 20
Map of Mendoza City Center............................... 30
Like Hotcakes Map of Maip............................................................ 32
Charlie OMalley writes about the local Map of Chacras de Coria........................................ 34
passion for tortitas..................................................... 12 Map of San Martn Park......................................... 34

Mind the Gap

Charlie Foley reminisces about the
Transandine Railway across the Andes................. 16

CREDITS
Issue JUNE - JULY 2017 -
ISSN 1853-9610.
10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.
Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3.
Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613

Editor: Charlie OMalley

Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gmez Rus:
publicidad@wine-republic.com,
mariana@wine-republic.com
Cover illustration: Donough OMalley
- Pag 12 Illustration: Donough OMalley
Contributing writer: Charlie Foley
Design: Circlan.com .
Jona Conti: jona@circlan.com.
Printer: Artes Grficas UNION

Opinions expressed in this magazine are not

necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine
Republic www.wine-republic.com

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 NEWS REPUBLIC
Evening Wine Tours
Just landed late afternoon in Mendoza and eager to visit
a winery? Everywhere closes at 5pm except now for the
prestigious CARO a joint venture of wine dynasties
Catena and the Rothschilds. Besides excellent wines and
a beautiful historical setting, what makes the proposal all
the more alluring is the winery is a 5-minute taxi ride
from downtown Mendoza. Visits are from 9am until
10pm Monday to Friday. Reservations required.

Bodegas CARO, Presidente Alvear 151, Godoy Cruz-

Mendoza
Tel : +54 2614 246 477.www.bodegascaro.com

Risky Business
This magazine has been telling readers for years that
Mendoza is one of the most benign environments for
growing grapes in the World. Constant sunshine,
abundant water and sandy soil make for the perfect
wine making formula and its no wonder it is home to
1000 wineries. However it turns out we are wrong. The
fact that Mendoza produces wine is apparently a miracle
as it has been ranked as the riskiest wine making region
in the World, according to the Global Wine Risk Index.
Nowhere in the World are grapes exposed to such an
onslaught of natural disasters such as drought, hail
stones, flooding, frost, fires and earthquakes. At least 10%
of the provinces production is lost every year to natural
disasters. Its a wonder the juice makes it to the bottle at
all. The second riskiest place to make wine in the World
is curiously Georgia, followed by Moldovia and Slovenia.
One must wonder where is Chile as it lost 125 million
liters in 2010 alone due to earthquakes. The list was
compiled by a group of geophysicists, meteorologists and
economists from Europe and Australia. They gathered
data from 110,000 wineries in 131 countries and deduced
that 10 billion dollars worth of wine is lost each year to
natural phenomenon. www.winerisk.org.

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 The
Fast Resorts
FreeImages.com/Artists Sheldon Pickering

Whether you are an international playboy with a penchant for skiing, or a

penny pinching backpacker whod like to learn, Argentinas ski resorts have
something for everyone.

Close to Mendoza:

VALLECITOS

This is where Mendocino ski history began. It is the

provinces oldest ski centre, nestled into the stunning
Cordon de Plata mountain range at an altitude of
2,900m (rising to 3,200 for the highest run). 80km south
west of Mendoza City and just 16km past Potrerillos, it
is perfect for day trips or one night stays. The resort
has a total of 12 runs, 20% for beginners, 60% for
intermediates and 20% for the advanced, making for
about 100 hectares of skiable ground (when there is
enough snow). Apart from the marked trails there
are a number of out-of-bounds bowls and chutes to
be explored. This is another resort that has outdated
equipment when it comes to world standards so take
the extra time suspended above ground to enjoy the
view. Vallecitos is modest in size but also in prices. You
best bet for accommodation is in the town of Potrerillos

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Close to Mendoza:

LOS PENITENTES

What Los Penitentes lacks in size and glamour, it makes

up for ten-fold in scenery and accessibility. Named
after a row of monk-shaped peaks in the mountains,
this tiny village could not be more conveniently located
as it is literally bisected by the main road to Chile
(170km west of Mendoza City). With a base altitude of
2580m rising to 3200m, these powdery slopes provide
tremendous opportunities for all levels to downhill
or cross-country ski and snowboard. The resort has a
total of 28 runs, 11 of which have been approved by the
International Ski Federation. All vary in difficulty, and
stretch a total of 22 kilometers that cover around 300
hectares of mountainous slope. credits:
Mendoza.travel Los Penitentes
Prices : Pass for one day : 600 pesos/persona
Rent equipment for one day : around 310 pesos / person.
LOS PUQUIOS Parque de Nieve

This is much more than a ski resort. In fact, it is a snow

park of 4 hectares located at 2680 m. There are a handful
of different ski runs here (with varying levels some
which are good for beginners as well as others designed
for intermediate skiers) but this unpretentious and family
friendly resort also has a large variety of other activities
on offer. If you dont want to ski or snowboard but like
to stay on your feet you can have a go at snow shoeing,
which is basically trekking around the resort with shoes
similar to tennis rackets on your feet, or you could try
your hand at ice skating in the small ice rink by one of the
Los Puquios restaurants.
However for those of us who quite like to use their
bottom as a snow cushion there are a couple of fun
options, and dont trick yourself into thinking they are
just for children. Try out the culi-patin (literal translation
butt skating) for a surprising adrenaline rush throwing
yourself down a large hill on slippery plastic sledges, or
go tubing and sit your derrier in a large inflatable rubber
tyre as you slide down the slopes either way you are
bound to be a convert.There are also play areas for the rug
rats to make snowmen and throw snowballs at each other,
while the adults sit back with a beer or homemade rustic
argentine food at the restobar nearby. And if you want
to spend an entire day at the resort, Los Puquios offers
night skiing three nights a week with floodlit pistes,
live DJs and mulled wine. Los Puquios is just a couple of
Los Puquios kilometers further up the road from Penitentes with the
same gorgeous Andean scenery.

Los Penitentes
credits: Argentina.travel

credits:
Argentina.travel

Los Penitentes

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Further South:

LAS LEAS

445km south of Mendoza City in the heart of the

Andes, this is the biggest, the best, and by far the most
expensive of the resorts in the area. It attracts snow
starved enthusiasts from the north who cant bear the
thought of a summer without snow, along with well-
heeled Argentines who ski by day and party by night.
Las Leas has a total of 35 marked runs that cover a
distance of about 64km, the highest of which reaches
3,430m. Of these runs, 30% are to be considered
beginner, 25% intermediate, 20% black and another
25% double black. One run even includes the added
Las Leas
spectacle of lights and music to accompany your ride.
For those craving more adventure than a double-black
can offer, there are said to be around 4,000 hectares Las Leas
of off-peak slope. Keep on eye on the forecast because
if it starts snowing, staff close all but 2 lifts inciting
dreadful hour-long lines at the base. The ski-lifts are
mildly outdated and even during normal conditions
the ride from the base to the summit takes about
45 minutes. The village at Las Leas base contains
modern luxury hotels, restaurants, casinos, nightclubs
and of course a multilingual ski school. If you decide
to stay in nearby Malargue (70km) you get a 50%
discount on the lifts. Buses leave regularly from the
Mendoza bus terminal. www.laslenas.com
Price : 1270 pesos / person / day
Price rent equipement : beween 360 pesos to 610
pesos according to quality /day

Los Molles LOS MOLLES

Close to Las Leas is Los Molles ski resort. Tranquil and

low key, it has the added attraction of thermal baths to
wind down after a hard day on the slopes.

credits: Argentina.travel

BARILOCHE

The most famous resort in Bariloche is Cerro Catedral

which is one of the largest and oldest ski areas in Cerro Catedral
South America with its 600 ha, 53 ski and 38 lifts. The
different routes on this mountain are endless including
a run with a vertical drop of 3,000 feet. Activities here
are dominated by ski and snowboarding, but you can
also try out Nordic skiing in the forests and there is a
terrain park too. The main base for this resort is Villa
credits: Argentina.travel
Catedral at the base of the mountain which has rental
shops as well as all your necessary conveniences.
www.catedralpatagonia.com Cerro Catedral

credits: Argentina.travel

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 Like Hotcakes
Charlie OMalley writes
about the local passion
for tortitas.
Mendocinos are an unflappable bunch. Their cool
demeanour matches the ice-capped mountains they live
below. They even enthuse about their wine in measured
tones and rarely get too excited about anything.
That is except when you bring up the subject of tortitas,
a type of hotcake that is unique to the province. Mention
this much-favored breakfast item and the conversation
suddenly becomes very animated with everybody
wishing to give an opinion on their favorite type and
where to buy it.
The most desired seems to be the flat raspado, which is
surprising as it seems to have all the consistency of a
hockey puck. Much more delicate is the de hoja, a layered
12
Donough O'Malley
www.pencilrobot.net
square of buttered dough. Then you have the pinchado
literally punctured with multiple holes and of course the
chicarone which is laced with tiny lumps of animal fat.
Tortitas are made and sold everywhere bakeries, corner
stores, schools and roadside stalls. In the early morning
an army of bicycle vendors set forth with towers of
tortitas circling the city streets and dispensing hot coffee.
It stops the work of policemen, postmen, bus drivers and
shop assistants.
One curious fact is nobody makes it in the home. Which
is surpising as it is a simple concoction of flour, butter, salt
and yeast.
(Like Hotcakes continue )
13
Legend has it that it was first made from the leftover
dough of empanadas and soon became a staple diet. It
is much loved with mate and enjoyed with friends and
family over breakfast or merienda (afternoon tea). It is
a symbol of Mendocino culture and should be added to
the provinces coat of arms. Talk to any local that lives
abroad and it is the exiles number one lament.

You just cannot get tortitas in Madrid.

What Tortita are You?

At 5 pesos a pop, tortitas are the
best quality snack in town.
They are also a very cheap way to
discern what sort of person you are.

Raspadas
Hardworking,
dependable and down-
to-earth. Very reliable
but somewhat dull.

Chicharrones
Rough diamond. Tough
exterior but sensitive
type with hidden
talents. Secretive..

De Hoja
Flaky and impulsive.
You have a bright
personality but are
hard to pin down,
Duplicitous.

Pinchada
Fully rounded, sensible
and capable with a
thim skin and inflated
opinion of one self.
Somewhat arrogant..

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 Mind the Gap
The government has announced huge new investments in Argentinas ailing
rail network. Charlie Foley reminisces about one of South Americas most
impressive engineering projects - the Transandine Railway across the Andes.
Possibly the most astonishing train journey in the world
would have been the crossing from Buenos Aires to
Valparaiso in Chile. The landscape is spectacular, the
rolling pampas land turning into the lush verdure of
Mendoza; where the colossal Andes rise up next to the
fields of vines like a slumbering giant.
The greatest of shames then that this journey is no longer.
In 1984, after a long period of difficult relations between
Argentina and Chile, the Transandine Railway closed. It
had begun in 1887, with Juan and Mateo Clark, British
brothers from Chile setting to work on a connection over
the perilous Andes. The decision had been reached that
a railway from the Atlantic coast, 888 miles to the Pacific
would be beneficial both for the transport of freight, yet
also to allow for a South American passage that did not
involve the Polar waters of the south.
across mountains that turned into graveyards
The passage over the Andes; until the advent of rail, had
been limited to mule and cart, which was both arduous
and dangerous. Nathaniel Bishop in his book The Pampas
and the Andes: A thousand miles across South America
writes about the journey, A youth not long since came
from Chile to visit a relative on the Argentine side...He
had with him experienced guides, and a favorite mule...
On the Cumbre pass, at an elevation of twelve thousand
feet, a temporal struck the party, and one by one the
mules became buried in the snow...The boy never lived
to leave the valley, there he lies, --pointing to the cross
Many such stories came from these journeys across
mountains that turned into graveyards.
However, not until 1910 did the rail link open, following
the old mule track through the Uspallata Pass and the
Cacheuta Springs (still in existence today) before reaching
its loftiest height of 3,176 meters at Los Caracoles. Many
of the sections were covered by snow sheds or tunnels;
as protection from the avalanches. The most famous
tunnel is the Cumbre, hewn out of the cloud-wreathed
mountains. This tunnel was used for road vehicles in the
late 1970s, but the tunnel was so narrow that two-way
traffic was impossible and restrictions were put in place.
For 67 years the Transandine railway locomotives
merrily chugged across the dizzy peaks; the passengers
in the comfort of the buffet carriages, as described by
Koebel in `Modern Argentina, One has gazed on the
tormented river, over five or six courses of a meal, and
has peered downwards into the yawning gorges through
the comfortable vapour of coffee steam and cigar smoke
At its height in 1920 there was 47,000 kilometres of
track transporting 45.5 million tonnes of cargo; all on
the ingenious rack and pinion system (huge pins which
allowed trains with a high gear to engage for maximum
grip).
47,000 kilometres of track transporting 45.5 million
tonnes of cargo
(Min the Gap continue )
17
The building of the Transandine railway had another
benefit; the birth of skiing in the Andes. The British and
Dutch engineers who surveyed the route over the Andes
had used skis to get about. When the train first began in
1910, it was being used as a sort of ski-lift, allowing people
to ski between Caracoles and Juncal.

Along the journey across the mountains the passengers

would have noticed a statue of Christ the Redeemer with
the enscription Sooner shall these mountains crumble
into dust than the people of Argentina and Chile break
the peace which they have sworn to maintain at the feet
of Christ the Redeemer.

For 67 years locomotives merrily

chugged along the dizzy peaks

Polvaredas Station

However in 1977 relations between the two countries

credits: culturademontania.com.ar
credits: losandes.com.ar
did collapse, and the Transandine railway went with
it. Problems had been building up since 1948 when the
Argentine government privatised the rail network and
the industry was weakened by competitive bidding. This
bidding meant that the railways became freight and not
customer orientated but with cheap competition from
road transport and the last of the customers evading
fares; the railway was left on its knees.

The finishing blow was the tensions between Argentina

and Chile over the Patagonian borders, and the
Transandine railway was suspended. The last locomotive
to steam over the snow-capped peaks was in 1984.

There have been many promises of investment and that

the revival of the railway network is forth-coming; but as
yet the tracks, snowsheds and tunnels are passengers to
no-one, save the Andean condors.

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 BARS
INSIDE MENDOZA CITY

The list below has some great bars but if youre looking to browse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue,
the nightlife strip of Mendoza. Its a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred to as Aristides by
the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San Martin Park to provide
you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night out because the clubs dont even get started
until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all located out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.

LA TABERNA DE MOE
This all-day, all-night drinking institution is popular with a
young, student crowd and is a refreshing antidote to the cool
posers on Aristides street. Located downtown, just off San Martin
Avenue, it is basically a hole-in-the-wall beer den disguised as a
kiosk. And like all the kiosks, it has lots of Duff Beer.
Catamarca 22. Tel 425 5317

ANTARES BAR
Aristides street would not be very complete without its own
micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer
in this respect with bars located across the country since
before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long
bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as
Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them
in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar.
Aristides 153.

BLACK SHEEP
Just off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an American-
style sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar food
like nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chicken
wings. While especially popular during sports matches, The
Black Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everyday
from 12 till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like!
Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.

BELIEVE IRISH PUB

One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and
high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part-
owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat
and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor
in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On
the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled
beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub
grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit music-
video montages or football games. Monday night is
International night and for their packed events DJs rock
the house. Colon and Espaa 241. Tel. 261-429-5567.
HANGAR 52
www.believeirishpub.com.ar
This warehouse bar has a rough and ready bohemian vibe
with bare walls and high, corrugated roofing. There is nothing
rough and ready about its beers however as they offer smooth,
well honed IPA, lagers and stouts. There are over 50 variieties
to choose from and service is rapid as they operate a self service
ticket system that puts an end to long waits - a drinkers curse in
Mendoza. The food is standard fare but with big convivial tables,
resident DJs and early evening opening hours it has quickly
become one of the most popular and lively bars on the strip.
Aristides 168.

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 BIKE TOURS IN MAIPU

The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171,
172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below)
where youll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious
for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a
puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu
is urban and not pretty. RECOMMENDED WINERIES Rutini, Tempus
Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae and certainly Trapiche. When returning
have a late lunch at the excellent El Enemigo.

USEFUL INFORMATION
AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not
ship wine and a courier can cost at least U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with
your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout &
Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at
restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and
internet cafes. NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can
get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an
easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own toilet paper.
Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home.
Clubs rarely get going before 2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables
Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER English speaking and
eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca), tel
(261) 641 6047.

CHANGING DOLLARS - Cambio, cambio shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria
Tonsa (San Martin 1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are
preferred. To make sure you are not getting ripped off check the current rate of the dolr informal on
www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

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 DINING OUT
MENDOZA
CITY
Anna Bistro
Unbeatable for ambience with its
extended deck overlooking a lovely
garden. Offers a host of different
foods on the menu including classic
steak, rich lamb, creamy pastas and
lots of lighter options including
big salads, sharing platters and
vegetarian dishes. Open all day.
Av. Juan B. Justo 161 Tel: 4251818.
Everyday 8am till late. Avg. meal
cost: $350 pesos.
La Patrona
Cozy Mendocino restaurant with a
casual, rustic charm attracts with
traditional Argentine food and
friendly and warm atmosphere.
Hearty empanadas and sizzling asado
go with warm, open sandwiches. We
recommend the artichoke hearts
and goat cheese; roasted vegetables
with white wine and honey; or the
more traditional pick of rich glands
cooked in lemon. 9 de Julio 656. Tel
- 4291057. Mon. to Sat.:12.30pm-
3.30pm and 8.30pm-close. Avg. Meal
cost: $220.
24
Recommended
El Mercadito
The perfect spot for some lunch time
sunshine or al fresco dining. Run by
three friends, El Mercadito has a cool
vibe and relaxed music making it a
favorite. Opening in the morning for
healthy breakfasts and antioxidants
juices, El Mercadito stays open
throughout the siesta with its light
menu of sandwiches, big salads
and some Argentine classic meals.
Aristides Villanueva 521.
Tel - 4638847. Avg. meal price: $190. Los Toneles
Chacras de Coria: Viamonte 4961. Tel
- 4962267.
Los Toneles
Located 15 minutes walk beyond the
city center, this handsome historical
winery offers Old World elegance
and atmosphere. The expansive
restaurant serves traditional dishes
with a gourmet twist and its the
perfect lunch or dinner spot for those
who have just arrived and want
some genuine Mendocino ambience .
Lateral Norte Acceso Este 1360. Tel -
El Mercadito 431 0403. Open Tuesday to Saturday
lunch and dinner.
Grill Q
Brod
Charming bakery coffee shop with
expansive courtyard set in old
colonial townhouse one block from
Plaza Independencia. Excellent for
light lunches and battery charging
coffee stops. Great wine selection
next door at Winery wine store
can be purchased and sampled in
courtyard. Chile 894. Tel:4252993.
Grill Q
Chic parrilla style restaurant (part
of the Park Hyatt hotel) with open
kitchen. Famous for grilled meats
and gigantic empanadas, and serves
hearty Argentine classics such as
locro a stew that hails back to
the early independence days. The
Hyatts other restaurant, Bistro M,
offers a more gourmet evening menu
and the most exuberant lunch menu
in town. Chile 1124. Tel - 4411225.
Avg. meal Grill Q $250 pesos. Bistro
M - Executive Menu $280.
 DINING OUT Recommended

Ruca Malen

OUTSIDE Ruca Malen winery is synonymous

with gourmet food & wine pairings

THE CITY in Mendoza and was a pioneer in

Finca Agostino
Elegance, history and the perfect
marriage of food and wine is what
youll experience by dining at
the restaurant of Finca Agostino
winery. The overall vibe is polished
and handsome. The food is equally
majestic 5 courses of well thought,
imaginative dishes that are paired
exquisitely with all the winery wines
often explained and described
by the chef Sergio Guardia. The
menu is seasonal with much of the
ingredients freshly picked from the
propertys organic vegetable garden
and orchard. Carril Barrancas 10590,
Maip. Tel - 5249358. Avg. meal
price: $650 pesos.
this area. Having lunch in Ruca
Malen is also a visual experience,
from the food served in creative
plates designed especially for the
occasion by local craftsmen to the
breathtaking view one gets of the
Andes and the vineyard. It also offers
great vegetarian and gluten-free
options. Ruta Nacional Km 7, Agrelo,
Lujn de Cuyo, Mendoza. Tel: +54 261
553 7164. Cel: +54 9 261 454 1236.
mendoza@bodegarucamalen.com
Los Negritos
Family-owned restaurant in the
rustic splendor of Las Vegas in
Poterillos, 80 km from Mendoza. This
is without doubt the best restaurant
in the mountains, specializing in
traditional family recipes that add
a new twist to Andean fare such as
humitas, tomatican and mondongo.
The restaurant itself is simple and
modern with no frills, but the food of
course. Open weekends and public
holidays 12 midday to 4pm. Avg
$250 AR. Los Olmos ST. La Vegas,
Potrerillos. Te. (0261) 155697431.
AlPasin
AlPasin
Elegance and luxury are combined
with breath taking views at what
is the latest hotel and restaurant in
the stunning Uco Valley. Traditional
dishes with the accent on season
are served in a light filled dining
room with red leather seats, bare
rafters and stone walls shadowed by
snowcapped peaks. The overall vibe
is comfort and elegance with an open
fireplace for those chilly high altitude
nights. Avg. meal price: $400 pesos.
Ruta Prov. No 94. Las Chacayes,
Tunuyan. Tel. +54 9 2613202999.
www.alpasion.com.ar.

La Azul
A pioneer in the Uco Valley region,
this boutique winery now offers
hearty lunches in a rustic setting with
stunning views of the mountains.
Family-owned , the owners are often
your hosts and they take pride in
serving giant portions of excellent
beef and pork dishes, accompanied
by the winerys excellent, high
Finca Agostino altitude wines. Popular, authentic
and unforgettable. Open Tuesday to
Sunday. Lunches only. Tupungato.
Lunch in a Winery Tel - (02622) 423 593. La Azul

Whatever you do in Mendoza,

make sure to have lunch in a
winery. There is nothing quite
like sitting back to a long line of
wine glasses holding delicious
Chardonnay, Torrontes, Malbec
and Cabernet Sauvignon
(amongst others), accompanied
by the finest, gourmet food
Argentina has to offer. The icing
on the cake is that icing on the
Andes in the background and the
lush green vines of the vineyard.
It is definitely the most civilised
way to get drunk on the planet.
Restaurant Lares de Chacras
One of Mendozas most charming
boutique wine hotels has now opened
its excellent restaurant to the general
public. Located in the picturesque
wine village of Chacras de Coria,
a 20 minute drive from the city,
Lares offers traditional local dishes
in a rustic deluxe environment.
Every Wednesday they offer asado,
Argentine bbq. Larrea 1266, Chacras
de Coria, Tel. (0261) 491 1061 www.
laresdechacras.com/
Terruo-Club Tapiz
Tucked away among the sprawling
Maip vineyards lies Club Tapiz
Resort and its lovely restaurant
Terruo. This handsome eatery
boasts an elegant interior, excellent
service and a wine list that is sure
to please even the most finicky of
wine snobs. Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maip.
Tel: 496 0131. www.tapiz.com Lunch,
every day, 12pm 3pm. Dinner, Sun
-Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until
12am. Avg. meal cost: $450 pesos.

25
 THE WINERY GUIDE
Driving time from Mendoza City
CITY
Clos de Chacras
Charming boutique operation with
nice history. A five minute walk
from Chacras plaza. Best Wine: Gran
Estirpe. (0261) 496 1285/155 792706.
Monte Libano s/n, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.closdechacras.com.ar
Terrazas de los Andes
The fine wine sister of Chandon
Argentina is a beautifully restored
bodega with well-appointed tasting
room. Best Wine: Cheval de los
Andes. (0261) 488 0704/5. Thames
and Cochabamba, Perdriel, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com
Terrazas de los Andes
Luigi Bosca
The Arizu dynasty are the royal
family of Argentine wine and their
seat of operations is a handsome and
elegant 110-year old winery. (0261)
498 1974. San Martin 2044, Mayor
Drummond, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
luigibosca.com.ar
Catena Zapata
Showcase winery designed like
a Mayan temple overlooking
vineyards and the Andes Mountains.
Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100.
Cobos s/n, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
catenawines.com
26
Restaurant Lodging Art Gallery
Los Toneles
City Center winery Los Toneles
has a charming Old World feel
and excellent restaurant. It is a
five minute walk east of the bus
station.Direccin: Acceso Este
Lateral Norte 1360, 5519 Mendoza.
(0261) 431-0403. Open everyday.
www.bodegalostoneles.com
LUJN
DE CUYO
Melipal
Great Malbec and gourmet lunches
make Melipal one of the most
exclusive wineries to visit. (0261)
4790202. R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo,
Lujn de Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal.
com.ar
Mendel
An old style winery ran by one of
Argentinas most famous winemaker
dynasties the De La Motta family.
(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor
Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
mendel.com.ar
Via Cobos
American winemaker Paul Hobbs
was one of the first to recognise
the possibilities of Malbec and his
Bramare label is possibly one of the
best examples of this varietal. (0261)
479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo.
www.vinacobos.com
Ciudad
Lujn de Cuyo
Maip
Valle de Uco
Tapiz
Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-
end restaurant Terruo and an
instructive wine tour including
barrel and bottle tasting. (0261) 490
0202. Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32.
Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.tapiz.
com
Los Toneles
Cruzat
A boutique traditional sparkling wine
producer with gorgeous bubbles that
can be enjoyed from their terrace
overlooking vines. (261) 5242290,
Costa Flores, s/n, Perdriel, www.
bodegacruzat.com
Alta Vista
Masterful mix of modern and
traditional. Tasting includes
distinctive Torrontes or single
vineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684.
lzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujan
de Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com
Matervini
Two Malbec pioneers - Santiago
Achaval and Robert Cipresso,
break new, exciting ground with
rich, mineral wines from unusual
terroirs. This tiny, boutique
operation only sells from the
winery. Cobos 2142. matervini.com.
Tel. 261 5616691.
Belasco de Baquedano
Gleaming modern facility with
fascinating aroma room and restaurant
with Andean view. (0261) 524 7864.
Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
belascomalbec.co
Belasco de Baquedano
Nieto Senetiner
Located in a beautiful old winery
in Chacras, Senetiner was founded
in 1888 and makes a great range of
wines and sparkling wines. (261) 496
9099, Guardia Vieja S/N, Vistalba,
Lujan de Cuyo. www.nietosenetiner.
com.ar
 THE WINERY GUIDE
Driving time from Mendoza City
Benegas Lynch
Rich history and richer wines. Lovely
old bodega with lots of character.
Best Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261)
496 0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra.
www.bodegabenegas.com
Caelum
Modern, medium size winery on
the main road to Chile just before
the mountains and has a nice
family feel to it. Best Wine: Fiano
(261)156992890. R.N.7 km 1060,
Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar
Dominio del Plata
Argentinas most famous female
winemaker Susana Balbo is creating
some rich and complex wines in the
heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200.
Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar
Renacer
Dominio del Plata
This Chilean-owned winery creates
the label Punto Final. Small, modern
operation with tours that include
a hands-on lesson in blending.
Brandsen 1863, Lujan de Cuyo.
(0261) 524-4416 or 524-4417. www.
bodegarenacer.com.ar
Lagarde
Owner of the oldest white wine in
South America. Try the hand-crafted
sparkling wine made from 100
year old vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext.
27. (261) 6815961 San Martin 1745,
Mayor Drummond. Lujn de Cuyo.
www.lagarde.com.ar
Casarena
A beautiful mix of old and new,
this winery mixes tradition and
modernity in an old style winery
with a super modern restaurant with
splendid views of the vineyards and
mountains. Brandsen 505, Perdriel.
www.casarenawines.com (261)
6967848.
Casarena
Restaurant Lodging
Carmelo Patti
Mendozas most famous garagista.
Carmelo Patti himself is often there
to show you around (in Spanish). Best
Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the
barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin
2614, Lujn de Cuyo.
Decero
Attractive, modern facility with
spectacular views of the mountains
from the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524
4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo,
Lujn de Cuyo. www.decero.com
Vistalba
Tasting room where one entire wall
is a subterranean cross section of the
actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks.
Fabulous restaurant. (0261) 498 9400.
Roque Saenz Pea 3135, Vistalba.
www.carlospulentawines
Vistalba
Budeguer
Modern-style Budeguer winery
offers you the chance to blend
wine and art in a warm and relaxed
atmosphere. Its superb terrace is
open until 8pm and it is the perfect
spot to sip a glass of Malbec enjoying
the sunset. Reservations required
at turismo@budeguer.com or (0261)
6830749- www.budeguer.com
R.P.N.15 Km 31,5 Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. Mendoza.
Achaval Ferrer
Modern boutique close to Mendoza
riverbed. Big concentrated wines.
(0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel,
Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer.
com
Ojo de Vino
A modern winery in Agrelo. The
winery restaurant Ojo de Agua,
has a delightful setting next to a
vineyard lake. Bajo Las Cumbres S/N.
Agrelo. (0261) 5731688. hospitality@
ojodevino.com
Art Gallery
Chandon
The original foreign investor, French-
owned Chandon has been making
great sparkling wines in Mendoza
since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968.
R.P.15, Km 29, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.bodegaschandon.com.ar
Chandon
Ruca Malen
Excellent food, great guiding and
first-class wines. The pairings over
lunch make for an unforgettable
culinary experience. (0261)
5537164 / 4540974. R.N.7 Km
1059, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
bodegarucamalen.com
Kaiken
This rustic 80 year-old winery houses
a new venture by the prestigious
Chilean winery Montes. Big and
powerful wines, destined for fame.
(0261) 4761111-14 INT 113 / Mobile
(0261-153 530 789) /Mobile (0261-155
509 453)
Kaiken
Dante Robino
Founded in 1920, an atmospheric old-
style winery with a modernist, light-
filled tasting room with excellent
view of mountains and vines.
(0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. Callejn
Maldonado 240, Perdriel. www.
bodegadanterobino.com
Familia Cassone
A charming, family owned winery
in a beautiful setting. Try the
jasmine tinted ros amidst the
pastoral splendour of the owners
expansive garden. Anchorena y
Terrada. (261) 424 6301. www.
familiacassone.com.ar
27
THE WINERY GUIDE
Lujn de Cuyo
Septima
A beautifully designed winery with
clear views of the mountains and a
large terrace used for sunset wine
events after 6.30pm on Thursdays.
(261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan
de Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com
Pulenta Estate
Cool minimalist design and rich
complex wines make this a winery
with finesse and style. Best Wine:
Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426.
Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo.
www.pulentaestate.com
Pulenta Estate
Don Manuel Villafae 25
Modern winery in the wide open
vineyards of southern Maip.
Intense, complex wines. Art
exhibition all year long. Ruta 60
s/n, Rodeo del Medio. Maip. (0261)
5083067. www.dmvwines.com
Finca Agostino
Elegant and picturesque winery
with ancient vines and walled
orchard. Offer superb lunches and
cookery classes. Carril Barrancas
10590, Maipu. ( 261) 5249358. www.
fincaagostino.com
FincaAgostino
Agostino
Finca
Familia Zuccardi
A professional, far-sighted operation.
Attractive restaurant amidst the
vines, famous for its asado-style
lunches and generous wine pourings.
(0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5,
Maip. www.familiazuccardi.com
28
Maip
Alpamanta
Exemplary biodynamic vineyard set
in the rustic splendor of Ugarteche.
Ideal for families and nature lovers.
Calle Cobos s/n.(0261) 153468398.
www.alpamanta.com
MAIPU
Rutini / La Rural
Well-stocked museum with
invaluable antiques like cowhide
wine presses and buckets. Giant
oak tanks stand in large, cavernous
halls. (0261) 497 2013 Ext.125.
Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito,
Maip. www.bodegalarural.com.ar
Lopez
Popular, old-style winery with two
museums on the wine. Restaurant
offers gourmet cuisine with a
panoramic view. (0261) 497 6554.
Ozamis 375, Gral Gutirrez, Maip.
www.bodegaslopez.com.ar.
Facebook/Bodegas Lopez Oficial
Trapiche
Argentinas biggest winery is a
mix of old and new, traditional and
industrial, and has the old train
tracks leading up to it. (0261) 520
7666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito, Maip.
www.trapiche.com.ar
El Enemigo
One of Argentinas most talented
winemakers Alejandro Vigil
opens the door to this colorful and
unconventional boutique operation.
Boisterous, gourmet lunches offered.
Videla Aranda 7008, Maipu. (0261)
697 4213
Casa El Enemigo
Valle de Uco
Catena Zapata
Showcase winery designed like
a Mayan temple overlooking
vineyards and the Andes Mountains.
Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100.
Cobos s/n, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
catenawines.com
Norton
Old-style cellars contrast with a high-
tech production line. Tank and barrel
tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays
are popular with the locals. (0261)
490 9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.
Lujn de Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar
AMP Cava
Premium wines made from different
terroirs but all by renowned winemaker
Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings
and a close proximity to the city
make it a recommended visit. Gmez
Adriano 3602. Coquimbito. Maip -
(261) 4813201/4668048
Tempus Alba 4
Charming family run winery with
modern facilities and terrace with a
view. Carril Perito Moreno 570. tel.
4813501. www.tempusalba.com.
Carinae
Small, charming, French-owned
winery offering personal tours and
well-honed wines. Surrounded by
vineyards and olive trees. (0261) 499
0470. Videla Aranda 2899, Cruz de
Piedra, Maip .
www.carinaevinos.com
Carinae
Rutini Museum
Familia Cecchin
A family winery using organic and
biodynamic principles where you
can see the entire process from the
beautiful green vineyards to the
minimal intervention winery. (0261)
497 6707, Ruta 60 , 500mts before
reaching Ozamis Sur roundabout
Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.com.ar
 THE WINERY GUIDE
Driving time from Mendoza City
Familia Di Tommasso
Officially the second oldest winery in
Mendoza and still run by Argentine
hands. Their charming and rustic
restaurant looks onto the vineyard,
just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829.
Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maip. www.
familiaditommaso.com
The Vines of Mendoza
A cooperative of international wine
lovers who have all bought a vineyard
plot each in Uco Valley to make their
own wine with experts. Add to this
a fabulous 5-star hotel and Francis
Mallman restaurant and Uco Valley
will never be the same again. Ruta 94,
Tunuyan. (0261) 461 3900
Salentein
Designed like a temple to wine, this
ultra-concept winery includes a
modern art gallery, lodge, and chapel
set high in the Andean valley. (02622)
429 500.R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan. www.
killkasalentein.com
Salentein
Diamandes
Modern, imposing winery with
magnificent wines, part of
prestigious French group Clos de los
Siete overkooked by Michel Rolland.
Calle Silva S/N. Vistaflores. (0261)
4760695.
Bodega Masi
Fascinating Italian job in the heart of
Tupungato with commanding views
and commanding wines, especiially
the Amarone inspired varietals and
unusual blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573.
www.masitupungato.com
Restaurant Lodging
Trivento
Located in the bucolic splendour of
southern Maipu, Trivento is owned
by the Chilean Concha y Toro. This
modern winery has a beautiful deck set
amidst the vineyards and offers bicycle
excursions within the property. Ruta 60
y Canal Pescara, 5517 Maip, Mendoza.
(0261) 413 7196. www.trivento.com
VALLE
DE UCO
Atamisque
This Uco winery has some great
white wines, a unique stony roof and
they breed their own trout which is
served in the charming restaurant.
(0261) 156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San
Jose, Tupungato. www.atamisque.
com
La Azul
Simple, small production winery
with not so simple Malbecs, a small
traditional restaurant and now a
beautiful lodge. (02622) 423 593.R.P
89 s/n. Agua Amarga, Tupungato.
www.bodegalaazul.com
La Azul
O. Fournier
Most architecturally innovative
winery with rich, concentrated
wines. Excellent lunches in the
modernist visitor center. (02622) 451
088. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta, San
Carlos. www.ofournier.com
Gimenez Riili
A brand new family run affair, part
of the exciting Vines of Mendoza
project. This is a modern winery in
a stunning setting. (0261) 156317105/
0261 / 153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n),
Tunuyn. www.gimenezriili.com
R.P.N.15 Km 31,5 Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. Mendoza.
Art Gallery
Trivento
Finca Sophenia
Modern, high tech winery in
stunning location. High quality
wines overseen by Matias Michellini.
www.sophenia.com.ar (02622) 154-
45622
Domaine Bousquet
Another French transplant to the
Andean foothills of Valle de Uco,
this sizeable operation produces
high altitude Chardonnay, Merlot
and Malbec. Ruta 89. Tupungato.
www.domainebousquet.com (0261)
5274048
Corazon del Sol
A stark, modern winery with big,
concentrated reds. Californian
owned and inspired. Tunuyan. Tel.
0261 659 0043.www.corazondelsol.
com.
Andeluna
The old-world style tasting room
looks upon dramatic views of
vineyards against mountains.
Probably the best gourmet lunch
in the winery. (02622) 423 226
Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary,
Tupungato. www. andeluna.com
Andeluna
Piedra Infinita
Innovative, elegant and modern,
Piedra Infinita is the imposing,
dramatic contribution of Familia
Zuccardi in Uco Valley. Expect
rich concentrated wines and exotic
varietals. Open from Wednesday to
Sunday. www.zuccardiwines.com.
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MAP OF
WINE TOUR
MAIP

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 MAP OF
SAN MARTIN
PARK

Mendoza City Tour Route

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