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“The internet allows people to present

an inflated and self-focused view of
themselves to the world”
Twenge & Campbell (2005)
PERCIEVING
TAM
A models perspective on social media,
body image and the distortions created
through the Fashion industry

Model: Tam Dexter
Photography: Talia White
Makeup Artist: Jade Victoria

Tam Dexter, one of the North’s
most desired and booked models,
kick started her modelling career 2 Do you feel that working as a model in
years ago through Nemesis Models, the Fashion Industry has affected your
Manchester and posting her test self-perception and body image at all?
shots on the social media platform
Instagram. Not as much as some people may think.
Obviously I look at other girls that go to
With already 36k Instagram followers at the gym a lot, and I’m like “wow I need
the age of 23, you’ll see Tam modelling to go gym more” [laughs], but I’m happy
for the likes of Hotmess, Luxe to Kill, with my body and I get booked for work,
Runway96, Baby Milk Clothing, Maniere so clients must like me.
Devoir, Baziic and Jade Clark.
Do you think that seeing successful
But, how does building a modelling models on social media, could issues
business through social media affect in young females? Especially those who
your self-perception as your popularity are wanting to follow your footsteps?
grows and you become more, and
more ‘in-demand’? Tam tells all on 100% of images on Instagram can be so
how it feels to be on the industry side false; lighting and photoshop have more
of the lens in modern day society, than likely been used. If I wasn’t in the
and how the modelling industry can fashion industry I wouldn’t know about
affect perceptions and identities of the the amount of editing that goes into
viewing and consumer-led public. post-production images.

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PERCIEVINGtam

Do you feel that working as a model,
there is a certain expectation of you to
‘look’ a certain way all of the time?
When I was 16 I didn’t care about what
I looked like compared to girls in the I don’t think there is a certain way they
lower generation, but it seems 16-24 want you to look, but I know companies
year olds mainly have their head in their want variety in models, i.e. hair colour,
phone on social media platforms at cut and maybe physique too. As a model
the moment, and that can’t be good you need to be looking your best at all
for them. times, I make sure my hair, nails and skin
are in perfect condition all the time.
Do you think social media has had
any negative impact in your modelling What aspects of the Fashion and Beauty
career to date, especially being 22 and Industries in particular do you feel most
working within the realms of fashion? affect self-perception and body image
issues of viewers and customers?
No not really, I don’t think I have enough
followers for it to have a negative impact Photoshop is a big one, how you can
on me. I see girls with 50k plus followers change someones whole image and then
and they get abused in the comments
on their own images, it’s disgusting. I
think if it got to that I would come off “SOMETIMES I LOOK AT
social media as there’s more to life than MYSELF AND I DON’T
people saying nasty things when they
don’t even know the person that they’re EVEN LOOK LIKE ME IN
being negative towards. THE MIRROR BECAUSE
I’M CONTOURED TO
Have you had any negative experiences
with brands or modelling agencies HIGH HEAVENS!”
where perhaps their expectations of
you were different? Perhaps post- use the image everywhere is false to me.
production images can give clients an Within the beauty industry, obviously
idea of something that isn’t ‘real’? makeup is a huge part. Sometimes I look
at myself and I don’t even look like me
No not yet, and I hope I don’t in the in the mirror because I’m contoured to
future. All my agencies have been really high heavens! So young girls wanting to
happy with me and my shape, and we look like a model or a blogger that they
also do test shoots for my portfolio have seen because they contour or use
showing a range or pre and post- MAC makeup would be a massive self
production images. perception issue!

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PERCIEVINGtam

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PERCIEVINGtam

Working around this major issue in
the Fashion Industry, ASOS for example,
have a Model Welfare Policy in place to
ensure that all of the models used in
Has imagery of you been published their promotional materials are deemed
whereby your body or ‘real’ body ‘healthy’ in regards to physique and
shape, has been digitally manipulated weight. Have you had any similar
without your say? positive experiences with brands or
modelling agencies where policies
No never, most photographers say I’m are enforced or positive body image
really easy to work with as I don’t need is promoted?
photoshop as my skin in great.
This is the best thing that’s came to the
How do you feel in general about using fashion indsutry and the wider society. I
digitally manipulated photography? don’t work with a company that has any
policy in place, but I think it should be
I think it’s ridiculous. If they found a implimented worldwide.
model with what they was looking for
instead of creating a fake image of
somebody to fit ‘the brand’, or ‘look’ “CAN YOU IMAGINE
I think the world would be a better LOOKING AT AN IMAGE
place in terms of self-perception and
self-confidence. At least young girls
OF YOURSELF WHICH
would know the image is a real person, LOOKS NOTHING
and could aspire to that and not a false LIKE YOU? I CAN ONLY
entity created for sales and the media.
IMAGINE THE SADNESS”
Do you think clients and brands can get
away with such manipulation without Do you feel that the use of a National or
their being any impact on the model? International Policy on ‘healthy’ model
use and positive body image would help
It’s really sad, it’s like the client doesn’t the industry in regards to promoting
know that the model will know that they body confidence and positive
have changed it completely. Can you self-esteem within young females?
imagine looking at a image of yourself
which looks nothing like you? I can only 100% there is a lot of models that are
imagine the sadness that I would feel if so underweight, even some that I have
I witnessed it, and it happened to me! worked with. To young girls they look
I think it would be really damaging and amazing, but if a doctor was to analyse
could lower your confidence massively. them, I am sure they would be worried.

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The average
18-24 year old
spends 2 hours a day
alone on Instagram,
spanning across
16 visits to the
application. But, how
does this affect ones
self-perception?
“It seems like there is a higher
percentage of people that have a
slimmer, fitter, smoother, tanner body
Participants of a 2017 study stated that..
than mine”

“I feel like I have to buy more beauty
products and try them out. Things
I would never have thought about.
Products such as pore minimiser,
eyebrow pencils and face creams.
Because of these products I am more
aware of parts of my body that I
wouldn’t have noticed before”

“All models and fitness bloggers use
social media as a platform to sell
themselves, and I look at these amazing
looking people with amazing bodies and
feel so self conscious that I don’t look
like them”

“There’s so many examples of extreme
beauty to compare yourself to”

“For a long time I let Instagram get me
down, how good people look on the
internet compared to how I look in real
life. It wasn’t long before I figured it
was an unfair comparison. You only put
your best bits online and with all the
apps and make up available now, we can
all play along with the best of them”
WARNING
WARNING
WARNING
PLEASE NOTE:
THESE SELFIES MAY TRIGGER
SELF-ESTEEM & CONFIDENCE ISSUES!
BODY IMAGE

SELF-PERCEPTION
NARCISSISM
SELFIES,
NARCISSIM &
SELF-ESTEEM
The rise of narcissism and self-esteem
issues through the rise of
self-photography and social media

Social media has impacted the world like Lowen, a researcher and theorist,
no other online outlet. It is hard to list all describes narcissism as “an investment
of the effects that social media can have in one’s image as opposed to ones self;
on one; either positive or negative. At a their activities are directed toward the
glance, it is obvious that self-expression enhancement of their image”. This quote
has become a paramount benefit, and embodies modern day society, be it
one can connect with friends and loved through social media, plastic surgery,
ones all over the world within seconds, cosmetics or clothing. All one needs to
sharing stories, photos, videos and do is look at celebrities and bloggers to
conversation. On the flip side, there are see the embodiment of ‘narcissism’ in
‘trolls’ and judgement taking place by a digitally social world. The world has
International critics whom one may not become ‘image-led’ and one is lead
even know; simply as a result of a ‘selfie’ to believe that whoever receives most
going live on Instagram, Facebook or ‘likes’ or ‘positive comments’ are the
Snapchat. epitome of beauty or fashion; and now
even the fitness industry.
These photo-based platforms allow
for one to create an ‘ideal lifestyle’ In regard to Instagram; the app some
or ‘image’, only projecting what one may say was designed to show, take and
wants others to see; a self-focused edit selfies, is comprised of a mass of
and inflated view of oneself. Deceptive individuals competing against each other
angles and filters have taken self- for followers, likes, reposts, favourites,
photography to another extreme, and whichever other show of approval
allowing for narcissists to prevail on exists out there rather than any sort of
an International platform without collective goal of mass beauty and global
necessarily knowing themselves. acceptance of diversity and culture.

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It is this self-obsession and competitive “‘LIKES’ GIVE THE
culture which pushes one to make
aesthetic changes to reach a level of
SAME HIGH AS A SMALL
‘acceptance’, whilst also pushing one HIT OF COCAINE”
into a whirlwind of self-esteem and body
image issues. such levels where one can buy ‘likes’ or
‘followers’ to give people that ‘hit’ for
A research study consisting of aesthetic highs.
anonymous male and female participants
carried out in 2017 showed that 80% But, for others, image-led applications
of participants within the age bracket can cause a negative stir, as previously
of 18-24 felt that social media had mentioned. The anonymous study
impacted negatively on their self- allowed for participants to air their views
esteem and confidence. Theorist on such platforms with one claiming
Hesse-Biber claims that those already that; “there are so many examples of
vulnerable to self-esteem or body image beauty to compare yourself to”. How
issues are most impacted by social do you know what you should look like?
media platforms and the subsequent Is there a ‘normal’ anymore? Or is this
intergroup comparison which follows. based on who receives the most ‘likes’?
This intertwines with other image- In a world where you don’t know if what
led perspectives and ideologies such you are looking at is real or constructed
Mulvey’s ‘gaze’, which has changed and in a post-production of lighting,
moulded itself overtime to echo the retouching and ‘face-tune’ apps, the
modern ‘digital age’ with lenses and danger of this having a negative impact
camera phones acting as a barrage of on one is real. One participant claimed
self-doubt and self-objectification for that “Instagram doesn’t do real life
the pleasing of the follower. This being filters; you can’t edit real life”, echoing
said though, a viscious cycle follows, the notion of falseness impacting on
with said ‘pleasing’ resulting in praise for peoples insecurities for the selfish
the body or face behind the lens. This benefit of others.
then allows and encourages a repetitive
notion of self-photography to occur, But with narcissism on the rise, more
solely in the pursuit of reassurance. filters, more lenses and more editing
apps becoming readily available each
It is unlikely that one would admit that week, will there ever be a sincere level of
self-photography is curated for self- engagement on social media anymore?
adornment but with narcissists it has Or is the desire to be lavished with
been stated that every ‘like’ can give praise and likes the new conversation,
the same impact on one mentally and even if it is damaging below the
physically as a hit of cocaine. Such transparent surface of hashtags and the
yearning for validation has now reached wannabe-famous?

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MULVEY’S
CHANGING GAZE
The Male Gaze in a ‘digital age’ and its
effects on the self-hood, identity and
self-esteem of social media users

Wishpond claim that there are 7.3m
daily active users on Instagram alone,
generating on average 575 photo ‘likes’
Photography: Playboy and 81 comments per second per day.
And with this, a 2017 study carried out in
1975 saw Mulvey coin “The Male Gaze”, the UK with 1,500 14-24 year olds, found
a theoretical perspective which has that Instagram has been rated the ‘worst
domincated the media over the past 30 app for mental health issues’, affecting
years in many ways. users self-esteem and body image, due
to a constant feed and infux of imagery
As much as it has dominated, it has also showcasing ideals, filtered selfies and
changed perspectives and perceptions body shots. This has led to social media
when it comes to the fashion and being recognized as having the same
beauty industries, and in recent times effects on ones self-perception as the
with the rise of social media, has ‘male gaze’, due to an internalisation
become a notion as to also how to of an ‘ideal image’ which one comes to
create tailored content to appeal to a recognise as ‘normal’. The ‘male gaze’ is
certain audience; but perhaps with the a term coined by feminist film theorist
wrong intentions, and with undesired Laura Mulvey in her groundbreaking and
side effects stimulating a cycle of self- renowned 1975 essay “Visual Pleasures
esteem, confidence and identity issues. and Narrative Cinema” which explores

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THEgaze

a world of sexual imbalance, where a and beauty. Mulvey calls this ‘the female
pleasure of looking has primarily been of gaze’ stating that women see themselves
the active male, and the passive female, through the eyes of men, therefore
who becomes ‘the display’ with the pre- influencing our choices on what is
determined intention of “look at me”. perceived and deemed attractive by the
opposite sex, or the ‘male gaze’.
The gaze has been seen in the media for
decades, in the editorials of Vogue, in By adhering, one is put under constant
porn, and through key establishments pressure feeling the ‘gaze’ consciously,
such as Playboy, shaping how women even if self-led. In a digital age though,
are perceived by men, and in turn this gaze is also felt under lenses and
how they perceive themselves. In the screens, with one being in complete
1950’s Playboy Bunnies in Chicago, control as to how they project their
whereby they were objects of both male own image, often being aware that one
attention and the male gaze due to their is being gazed at, for either positive or
‘uniforms’, in turn becoming the ‘ideal’ negative critique and judgement. This
and ‘sex symbols’ of the era. Shields is often seen in the feeds of Instagram,
and Heinecken stated that this can be even now under the beauty-sphere, with
“overwhelming, and in turn, distorted”, bloggers adopting these approaches
whereby, one becomes unable to to self-promote; the tides have turned
recognise the ‘ideal’, nor reality, adding from primary uses within fashion
additional pressure to look a certain way and editorial advertising. Writer, Liu,
and conform to a socio-culturally pre- summarises this notion perfectly; “social
set ‘norm’ derived from such gazes. media makes this a time when the visual
begins to take prominence over the real.
Theorist Shields expands on this, Instead of experiencing our lives from
explaining the ‘male gaze theory’ in our own vantage points, we now see the
everyday terms; allowing for women to world from how others will view and
be seen as objects of “the heterosexual respond to our vantage points. When
man’s eye”, and claims that it is this we are all responsible for creating our
awareness which allows for women to own media, we are always visible and
adopt different perspectives to see therefore, always ‘seen’”.
themselves through the eye of the
third person. This allows one to view Johnson (2008, P.207), pins this thought
themselves in this way opposed to how of vantage points on the ideology of
they actually see themselves, judging a brand, or self-branding marketing
others in the same vein also - through a strategies as often seen with influencers
male eye. In addition, by adopting this adopting ‘porn chic’ style
view point, one becomes aware of what
‘the male’ wants to see, pre-empting promotions and campaigns, noting
this notion through dress, body and that; “’product [or brand] ambassadors’

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[are not] aimed at selling anything and unmaintainable aspirations for
specific, but instead work to give a both men and women. This can lead to
brand a certain set of values or a certain eating disorders, body image issues,
emotional association”. This however in mental health problems and further
turn aims to change one’s sense of self issues with confidence and self-esteem,
through reflected and standardised/ for example. This has since been
advertised ideals, and gazes, which confirmed through studies and user-led
can ultimately be dangerous for the surveys. Photo sharing platforms and
one creating the content, and those photo-led applications allow for users
viewing it. to critique themselves, and the more
these platforms/apps are used the more
However as social media has led to critiquing and self-evaluating may take
males also becoming more prominent place, altering ones self-perception due
in the fashion and beauty industries, to internalising of a pre-determined
and gender is considered more ‘equal’ ideal, or ‘image’.
this has blurred boundaries and has
also taken away the stereotyping that Fellow writer Klein, also notes that
the male gaze once was. Now, this has “social media makes social comparisons
become generalised as ‘the gaze’ and even more competitive” due to having
has become more subjective than ever. likes, comments and followers to gage
their self-worth and beauty from, in
The various representations of both some cases establishing their level of
male and female ‘ideals’ which social confidence and self-esteem. The higher
media in particular promote, can be the number, the better ones self-
said to confuse one’s self-perception perception is. The lower the number,
and the understanding of what the the lower the self-esteem. A vicious
‘ideal’ is, and therefore what beauty, cycle, which is no good for any social
or body image is. This confusion and media user, and shows how damaging
internalisation can lead to the ‘self- these image-led platforms can be.
surveying gaze’ which can overwhelm
one and in turn will be no longer able to Even though images are constructed,
recognise ones true perception opposed curated, edited and filtered to project
to a perceived perception. an ideal and positive image, or more
accurately, how someone wants to be
Rumsey, another theorist and writer, perceived, Hong notes that “perceptions
claims that, beauty ideals by showing are not shaped exclusively by what
certain body sizes [as...] beautiful profile users disclose about themselves
and desirable” insinuating that the but also based on others’ comments”,
media is responsible for choosing being titled the “warranting principle;
who and what is seen as the ‘ideal’, judgments from other-generated
shaping and creating unattainable and information is more influential than

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THEgaze

“PERCEPTIONS
ARE NOT SHAPED
EXCLUSIVELY BY
WHAT SOCIAL MEDIA
PROFILE USERS
DISCLOSE ABOUT
THEMSELVES BUT
ALSO BASED ON
OTHERS’ COMMENTS.
THIS IS NOW CALLED
‘THE WARRANTING
PRINCIPLE’ IN THE
DIGITAL AGE”
judgments from self-generated
material”. This allows for a whirlwind of
self-perception issues to be sparked
and further stimulated, allowing for
one to value and judge self-worth and
perceptions based on others’ opinions
opposed to ones own thoughts.
Third person perspectives instilled
through socio-cultural influences and
expectations build an ‘ideal’ image
which for some is unrealistic and
unmaintainable or attainable leading to
a barrage of problems. This leads to the
question; is there going to be a tipping
point for these platforms when sensors
are placed and rules are put in place
to protect users, or is there going to
be educational materials showing how
such platforms can be damaging? Or we
will, as a society, continue to self-derail
and damage each others wellbeing,
self-hood and self-identity for our own
security and positive approval?

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SEX
SEX
SEX
XXX

SELLS
SELLS
SELLS
“With enough work people can
construct the appearance that they
want. Such understanding emphasises
the visual, pointing towards a world of
gazes, mirrors and spectacles”
Stratton (1996)
MODERN
MUSE
Is social media taking over fashion
magazines thanks to digital muses;
elite bloggers and influencers?

Model: Aimee Song
Photography: Song of Style

At a time when less than 50% of
18-24 year old females read Fashion
and Beauty magazines, the world is
turning into a digital entity, allowing Aimee Song falls into this group. But
for not only magazines to question their not only does she fall in to the group,
standing, but allowing for everyday she helped create it. The first fashion
people to become part of the ‘in- blog appeared online in 2003, and ‘Song
group’, and present themselves how of Style’ (Aimee’s blog) launched in
they want to be seen, in return for 2005, and quite literally took over. She
reassaurance and ‘likes’, boosting ones began blogging while studying interior
self-esteem, confidence and potential architecture in San Francisco, originally
career goals in the blogging realm. This as an outlet for interior design shots. On
instant accessibilty to, and obsession a whim, Song uploaded a photograph of
with social media, allows for one to one of her outfits and it quickly sparked
create a style for themselves, and in positive feedback from strangers around
turn creating and curating their own the world online. Then the luxury brands
digital magazines, opposed to being followed in tow. Now, Aimee has an
dictated to by monthly editors within Influencer Agency whom are also in
publishing to dictate what is ‘in’, or control of Instagram, YouTube, Twitter
‘not’. These ‘magazines’ are not page and Pintrest, which reaches more than
turners however, they are Instagram 8m followers collectively. She also has a
feeds, online blogs and Pintrest team of photographers whom follow and
accounts, documenting their every capture her every move, at home in LA
move, every ‘look’ and style. or on her travels.

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MODERNmuse

Due to her success, a booked titled by Macy’s ‘flea-fashion’ ambassador.
‘Capture Your Style’ has been released; Song is clearly being recognised by
Song’s own guide to branding yourself Wintour and major brand leaders as a
for social media, and was instantly force not to be reckoned with, but to be
featured in both The New York Times joined.
and Forbes Magazine. This is where
the magazine VS blogger challenge lies But with this influencer game comes a
though; are magazines being outdone dangerous side note of how Instagram
my marketing extraordinares and and social media can make, the ‘normal’
influencers, whom now have more person feel, or the person who has tried
influence over consumer culture than their best at blogging but still cannot
Anna Wintour from Vogue US? It’s highly reach that status. ‘Capture Your Style’ is
possible. sold and marketed as follows;

Stratton claims that, “[with enough work] “Inside, you’ll learn ways to craft your
people can construct the appearance voice and story on Instagram: all about
that they want. Such understanding how to edit your photos using the best
emphasises the visual, pointing towards apps and filters, how to prop and
a world of gazes, mirrors and spectacles style food and fashion photos, how
where they eye is the central sense to gain more followers, and secrets
and the body is its major focus”. This behind building a top Instagram brand,
is resonant with social media and transforming an Instagram hobby into a
magazines, whereby the camera, or successful business”
public eye becomes a mirror, allowing
for distorted self-perceptions, with Sound appealing? Of course. But how
one being unable to recognise what does living a life of curated, filtered
is real, or not, adding aesthetic pressure, and edited images make the everyday
especially in a world of social media. person feel? Song would argue that
For Song these spectacles and she, “represents the masses because
constructive work has worked incredibly I’m a real person, not a supermodels
well; Since reaching influencer stardom, or celebrity, so consumers can relate
she has been made brand ambassador more”, yet if you ask someone on the
for Laura Mercier, launched her own highstreet, someone from the ‘norm’,
fashion line, called Jame, guest-edited they would argue that such bloggers
Korean Vogue, walked the Dolce and “present and represent an impossible
Gabbana SS17 catwalk show at NYFW, and ideal look which the average person
has featured in Vogue US and Women’s cannot achieve. If only Instagram made
Wear Daily. In addition, collaborations real life filters.. you can’t edit real life”.
have been formed with brands such as
True Religion, Fossil, Levi’s and 7 for All This statement can make one feel
Mankind, and has since been employed unsettled, but also can make one

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MODERNmuse

question this new career choice of Compared to magazines where one
Influencer marketing and blogging in knows that the photography or editorials
relation to self-perceptions, aspirations which are being viewed or directed, are
and ideals. In regard to this, due to the curated and fuelled by models, makeup
continuous ‘perfect’ posts and ‘ease’ artists, hairdressers and stylists, social
of some bloggers reaching international media paints a picture that what one
influencer status, it can be taken that posts from their personal account is
every photo is not, planned and edited ‘real’. Magazines can be interpreted
post-production, however Song’s book, in different ways due to being mass
captures this process diminishing the produced for a wide audience within
secrets of bloggers everywhere. In some a ‘designed demographic’, dependant
ways, this is a positive that she has upon the viewer, how they percieve it,
revealed how ‘bloggers’ and ‘influencers’ and ultimately if they choose to read
work; based on their contructed lives, that particular publication. However,
whilst to those who do not follow her with social media, each blog is tailored
or know of ‘Capture Your Style’, may be and is directed to a very specific type
niave to this process and ‘take whay they of person, through the use of hashtags
see as real’. and curated imagery. Influencers are
becoming the new models, role models
Due to the rise in ‘blogger culture’ in the and leaders of the fashion world,
past decade, many theorists have began dominating the social media scene and
to adapt their research and analogies to the publishing world. Social media users
this phenomenon and how this affects may see this a positive, or a negative,
the viewer. Tagg took the lead, stating, depending on their mind-set and
“status [within] technology varies with viewers on the bloggersphere, whilst
the power relations that invest [in] it”, brands are using influencers opposed
whilst Rose claims; “photography is to models to endorse and promote
often thought of as picturing reality”, their brands and products; through
implying that fabricated realities such both catwalk shows and PR stunts via
as Song’s, may impact on the self- social media. But, ultimately, magazine
perception, confidence and self-esteem publishers are turning a negative of
of the viewer. a preference of social media into a
positive, in an aim to counteract their
In contrast, it can also be said that sales and open doors to new readership.
there is a sense of pleasure and
gratification that is gained through This combined strategy of utilising
‘looking’ at what we cannot have or different media channels in an aim to
achieve, allowing one to still feel in tune re-vamp a fading world of print-based
with such lifestyles, therefore using editorials appears to be working, but
social media platforms such as Instagram how long until these modern muses
and YouTube everyday. completely take over?

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luxury consumerism; now available
“Different people of different
cultural backgrounds, under different
circumstances and at different times
make different meanings, and so
create and experience different
social realities”
Saunders (2012)
MILK
& HONEY
An honest and inspiring, award-winning
blog aimed at inspiring and instilling
self-worth in women across the globe

Models: M&H Collective
Photography: Amy O’Brian

itsmilkandhoney.com

At a time when the digital age can be a no ‘artifical’ content created purely
negative environment with a backlash for the reception it may, or may not
of critique and judgement, Milk and recieve. The growth and readership has
Honey provide a safe outlet for women been organic, underpinned by honesty
to escape to and be inspired by. and culture.

In 2012, Stephané Alexandré launched
the female ran online blog and hub, What prompted the idea of the blog
aiming to inspire, motivate and instill a Milk and Honey?
truth and sense of belonging in the lives
of her readers. Instantly shortlisted Milk and Honey was just my little blog
by Cosmopolitan for the Blog Awards to interview people as I came out of
the same year, Milk and Honey began university. It was somewhere to write
to grow from a one woman band about the things I was passionate about.
in London, to an International and Now the angle has totally changed and
collaborative platform reaching women is aimed at women aged 16 to 24, and is
all over the globe. With underlying all about being a positive inspirational
Christianity and self-belief, this blog is stream in the media - passionate about
like no other and is recognied as being protecting moral values and bringing an
fresh, youthful, relevant but ‘real’, with awareness of self-value and worth to

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MILK&honey

young women. The platform is now a and working together to get these
collaborative non-profit group ran by stories out there and build on this
likeminded women from across the platform working together, sharing and
globe. Our platform covers a range of encouraging.
area, from fashion, music, faith and
lifestyle. It endorses positivity, love and But, there is a lighter side too?
certainly has no place for gossip! We
aim to bring inspirational news and an We talk about all sorts of this girls like,
awareness of self-value and worth. I like from makeup and beauty, to fashion, to
to think it is uplifting and will motivate hotels and travel, the best places to eat;
women to be the best that they can be. you know a lifestyle hub that’s Christ
There is truth and heart in everything inspired but engaging and relatable
that is written. and safe. Sharing is so important to
bring all sorts of self-worth and value
Do you think that this platform can to women, especially today when this
make a difference in the current ‘digital can be diminished so easily in modern
age’ of social media and judgement? day society. You know, growing up in a
sheltered environment and having pre-
The platform was created as a safe haven determined aspirations set out for you
for girls to come and get powerful, has led me to this point, where I now
meaningful and real content, and it want to be ‘me’, and I want women to
is what it is because of the girls that embrace who they are too, and not to
contribute to it. be dictated through just an ideal either
through the media or Christianity.
Can you tell me about the girls which People don’t often realise how beautiful
you work with and how you work? they are, and don’t recognise their worth
and that’s what we want to showcase
Oh, gosh, we have girls from Canada, and encourage as a team.
from Germany, from London, from LA,
who pull out their testomonies very Do you think it’s hard for women to
earnestly and talk about their lives, identify with themselves within a world
their journeys and their Christianity, of social media?
and very honestly to. I remember
back at the start we would talk about Even if you have Instagram and you’re
‘real’ issues such as the struggle with following safe content, there is still an
pornography and religion, you know, and element of a ‘picture perfect life’. No
abandoned girls who never had parents, one posts a picture of themselves when
and motherhood, and sisterhood. We they wake up, it’s all very tailored and
wanted to share stories through Christ, we try to bring that back to reality. You
to let others be free. You know and don’t see imperfections, an we wanted
that’s really been at the brunt of it all, to show that, and reinstate being true.

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MILK&honey

What is your film about, ‘The Dare’ that A lover, but not a fighter.
features on the blog? Not afraid to flex to the rebellious yes.
Advised and rejected by men, we did not
We wanted to present a reflective visual esteem him.
of the journey that is being a women, But he needed to be stricken.
growing and learning over the years, in Smitten, it was written, he was wounded
a raw way. ‘The Dare’ is a spoken word for our transgressions.
piece performed and written by Sarah Bruised for our inequities.
Amankwah, which we believe to be Chastised for our peace.
powerful, helpful and beautiful too. Beg my pardons, please.
From the minute my tears kissed his feet,
The Dare: I was set free from eternal captivity.
In an instant, his grace was made
I remember the first time that I sat sufficient.
in isolation. Not by my needs to please, but he
I kept face, but it caught my attention. needed to aim high for me so he stepped
At age 9, I was a compulsive lair. down and died for me.
I rejected things I couldn’t understand, Who sympathises with the weak.
like immigrants. Tempted yet with sin yet he was on fleek.
Who knew those silk haired, sun-kissed Perfect purchase the payment was
creatures were my neighbours. permanent.
This clenching stones not knowing that I And I look at you, sleeping beauties and,
to had become a clone. the scars left behind.
Culture zone; teenager. The broken hearted Fionas and Auroras.
Not a ninja but my movements marked Those filthy ogres wearing togas, and
splinters. those charming lovers.
Most winters I would slumber in the For heavens sake.
daytime; always afraid to walk the line. His glorious kingdom awaits; you are
I’m dreaming; but screaming, why does known royalty.
beauty starve the living.. wait, wait, who He prays that when you sit there and
am I kidding? look at me you see a bi-product of a true
I traded my heart to these trolls that love story.
scrolled through every crushed artery. I dare you to listen to reason, to commit
Handed me some sticks and spit and this act of treason against the world.
make me your weeping mistress. Tell every boy and every girl to wake up.
Ruled by the fear of never having a happy I dare you to shake up the nations, the
ever after. blacks, white, olives and caucasians.
But behold, for he is coming; and every I dare you to love your frenemies, that’s
eye will see him. your friends and your enemies.
My knight in shining armour. I dare you to not follow me, but follow he;
Covered me with his ghost writer. come and see, I dare you.

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“The media influences slim ideals,
and potentially can trigger eating
disorders. As a result 1.6m in the UK
alone suffer”
B-EAT (2011)
CANDIDLY
ASOS
The worlds largest ecommerce outlet
talks Social Responsibility, Model
Welfare and Body Image

ASOS is known to be the number
1, global fashion destination for
20-somethings. Selling more than
85,000 products through localised
mobile and web experiences, ASOS
deliver daily to 240 countries and
destinations around the world. With
this being said, ASOS have a huge
responsibility to ensure that both
products and advertising are targetted
responsibly to their 12.4m diverse
customers, and with their stance as
a market leader within the Fashion
Industry, ASOS take the welfare of
both their customers and models
very seriously. At a time where social Photography: ASOS SS17
media is on the rise, and perceptions
are being distorted through an array With ASOS being accessible to over
of digital lenses, Jessica Andrews 240 countries worldwide, how does
from the Social Responsibilty team the Model Welfare policy work on
and Robert Crest, a Senior Specialist an International scale? Are different
Womenswear designer for ASOS, talk ethnicties and body types accounted
candidly on the companies policies and for in order to not only show Western
procedures, ensuring good practice faces and physiques?
globally. ASOS are the only global
company to enforce such welfare JA: The main focus of the policy is the
policies, and hope to make a positive welfare and wellbeing of the models
difference in a challenging time for working with ASOS, so it doesn’t specify
Fashion; by keeping what they put out in the need to represent differences in
the media as close to ‘real’ as possible. body shapes or averages. However as

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CANDIDLYasos

part of the wider ‘Fashion with Integrity’ So, who do you work with to form
programme we focus on diversity and such policies, and are these supported
inclusion so the model booking team going forward?
is aware of the importance of ensuring
that our models reflect our diverse RC: The design team obviously doesn’t
customer base. work in isolation. We have very strong
relationships within our Buying and
I think that ASOS does a pretty good Garment Technology teams to ensure
job of this already but we are always policies are followed throughout
striving to ensure that all body types, the process. Our supplier bases are
races, etc, are represented across all of also an extension of this and regular
our channels. contact and visits build this trust and
continue updating the information and
How are ASOS perceived in the Fashion expectations we hold within ASOS.
Industry and ecommerce world in
regards to following guidelines and JA: When forming a policy it is important
policies? It is noticed that other brands to ensure all of the relevant stakeholders
and organisations in the Industry which within the business are involved. For
do not have such pre-set policies. example, for a retouching policy this
would include a group of people, so, the
RC: I hope ASOS is perceived to be quite Production team, the model booking
aspirational in terms of body image and team and the creative directors.
dressing any body shape.
We would also potentially involve a
We have 4 womenswear specialist ‘critical friend’ i.e. a charity or initiative,
‘Own Brand’ departments – Curve, that it well known for working in the field
Tall, Petite/Petite Tall, and Maternity/ so that they can provide external advice
Maternity Tall, and we also sell ‘Branded as the policy is formed. This really helps
Specialist’ brands too. [ASOS] to ensure that we are on top of
our game, and that nothing ‘out of line’
We [ASOS] strive to be the top of our is carried out which could be perceived
game, and hope that all of the work done negatively by the viewer and consumer.
within head office is evident on site We take this quite seriously.
through both the end product and social
media outlets. We don’t use advertising, Do you believe that all brands and
aside from our own magazine which organisations in the Fashion Industry
is available to customers, we live off should follow policies and guidelines,
word of mouth and the reputation this ensuring that Positive Body Image and
spreads, the feedback we have had from Model Welfare are accounted for? Or,
questionnaires and focus groups have do you think the Industry would benefit
been very positive. from National or International policies?

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CANDIDLYasos

“BOUNDARIES ARE RC: In general, I think that there should
be a level of general awareness and
NOW BLURRING AND boundaries which industries should
THE TIDE IS TURNING. adhere to, but appreciate to make it
POSITIVE BODY IMAGE national or international would require
a big body of work. I think boundaries
AWARENESS IS NOW are now slowly blurring and with recent
OUT THERE NOT TO catwalk shows using plus size, older
BE IGNORED BUT generations and androgynous models
– the tide is turning and Positive body
CELEBRATED. THERE image awareness is now out there not to
IS STILL A LOT TO BE be ignored but celebrated. There is still
DONE HOWEVER” a lot to still be done however.

JA: I feel that all brands within the
Fashion Industry should draw up their
own policies and guidelines. I think this
would promote organic change from
within the industry that still allows for
the creativity and vision to continue but
also ensure the wellbeing of models and
the public.

When National or International policies
are put in place they can help and
promote change more quickly as long as
they are not too prescriptive. However,
these types of policies are quite often
not very easy for brands to navigate and
can become a burden with admin and
quashing creativity, so do not allow the
industry to find a positive solution from
within, which I think is what ultimately
drives long term change.

What sort of questions does the public
in regards to Body Image and Model
Welfare raise?

JA: The main questions we receive really
are in regards to our retouching policy.

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Have any problems arisen in regards to
modelling agencies not complying with
these policy guidelines?

RC: Not that I’m aware of, but I would “WE HAVE RESORTED
like to think that ASOS would only work TO FINDING OUR
with agencies which have guidelines
OWN MODELS; OFTEN
and rules which embrace and support
all body types, and as a result any issues THROUGH INSTAGRAM,
are dealt with prior to production teams FESTIVALS, COMPS OR
meeting or hiring our models.
EVEN AT TIMES FROM
JA: Yeah, I agree. Ultimately it’s up THE ASOS OFFICE!”
to the ASOS Model booking team to
decide which models we want to use media is positive and this is monitored
on our website, or for any other media and addressed constantly. We use
channel, so they should be following the social media as a resource to gain an
guidelines outlined in our policies, such understanding of what our customer
as only using models with measurements needs also. This is usually free of any
above a UK size 8. boundaries – and sometimes the more
honest the better as all we want is to
However, we do sometimes face issues make sure that ASOS customers
due to modelling agencies presenting are happy.
models that have measurements that
are smaller than we would want to use. We have strict rules about what we can
For example, in the past we have had post and always address how things may
challenges in finding agencies who be perceived before being posted.
supply ‘plus size’ models above a size
16 and as a result have resorted to Do ASOS work with issues surrounding
finding our own models, often through social media and possible Mental Health
Instagram, festivals, competitions or and Body Image issues that could be
even from the ASOS office! But you derived from this?
know, the modelling industry is changing
so we have seen improvements in this JA: We recognise that mental health
area recently. issues are one of the biggest challenges
facing young people today, especially
So, how does the ASOS social media with the rise in social media use. We
platforms comply with these policies? work really hard to ensure that our
social media presence is positive and
RC: Naturally we have a responsibility not negatively impacting on the mental
to ensure any imagery posted on social health and body image of our customers.

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We also have wider programmes in place product/trends, but also just to touch
to highlight the impact social media base and see what’s going on in “their
can have on body image and mental family and community” of followers. This
health. For example, we work with the is an invaluable resource and is why the
Diana Award (a charity that is working customer has become more aware and
to prevent bullying) and we have been educated in the way they dress and as a
partnered with them for the launch of result can dress with confidence.
their ‘#MySenseOfSelf!’ project which
teaches young people about body So, what do you think are the benefits
confidence and self-esteem. of having such ASOS policies and
ideologies in place?
The focus of the project is on an activity
in which they draw an outline of their RC: The benefit to me is simply having
neck and shoulders on a large piece of less boundaries, but naturally having to
paper and then write words around the think outside the box more because as a
outline that shows what makes them up designer you aren’t always designing for
(i.e. I love cooking, my favourite colour yourself – it makes you appreciate what
is red). When they have filled the paper you are giving as a service.
around their outline they take a selfie
with the paper behind them. The activity And, do you think that there are any
highlights that when people take selfies negative aspects or restraints in regards
and post them on social media, the selfie to working with such strict policies
doesn’t show who they are as a person and guidelines?
but just what they look like, especially
after using various filters and apps. We RC: Naturally we have to be sensitive to
are currently working with the Diana the diversity of our customer base and
Award to expand on this idea to a more the different ethnic groups, and respect
National level and it’s an area we would their opinions and beliefs, whether this
look to continue working in the future. is silhouette or cut, body shape, print or
pattern, or even the colours used.
With social media taking off, do ASOS
work with bloggers coinciding with this? This is by no means a bad thing, as
overall it adds another level to the
RC: We do quite a lot of work with design process and can often influence
bloggers and influencers. For example how trends evolve. It is also a journey
for CURVE, our plus size ‘Own Brand’, from concept to sample and the end
we have done lookbook shoots with product would hopefully not divide or
Gabi Fresh and Felicity Howard, who are deter our customer from their ASOS
great aspirational women. We also meet experience, whilst being an enjoyable
with Plus size bloggers, both UK and learning curve and challenge for the
international for advice and opinions on design team.

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THE BACKLASH
OF SOCIAL MEDIA
How mental health and eating disorders
are affected and impacted by the rise in
social media and image-led applications

In the UK alone there are currently 1.6m Now with the rise of social media, this
people whom are suffering with an has again risen, however this time
eating disorder, whilst 1 in 4 people are there are no rules, no guidelines or
known to suffer from a mental health restrictions and no B-EAT so advise on
issue such as depression, or anxiety. what images may be damaging to the
vulnerable. There is no control. And even
The fashion industry has always relished though magazines have never promoted
at the ideology of a super-skinny model a normal, attainable nor maintainable
walking down the catwalk of NYFW, figure, they still had guideance should
or featuring amist the glossy pages they desire, or seek to follow it. Now
of Vogue magazine. The magazine with everyone being a curator of their
industry itself has never shyed away own feed, we now have ‘thinspiration’
from publishing images of the slim Instagram accounts going viral, with
‘ideal’ figures the general public are anyone, anywhere and of any age being
made to feel like they need to compare able to access images and accounts.
themselves to; from Victoria Beckham
and the ‘Size 0 Revolution’ to the On average, a female aged between 18-
everyday supermodel legs of Lily Cole 24 spends 2 hours a day on social media
which every Westerner adorned to. It is platforms. This may not sound like a
not often you see a plus-size model, or great amount of time, but added up over
even an average size model in te pages a week, a month and a year, the images
of magazines. Crystal Renn was lucky one views can grow to be percieved as
to appear in ad campaigns showcasing ‘normal’. Research suggests that the
her womanly curves a handful of times, amount of time spent on social networks
with the media trying to prove a point, was associated with greater self-
however the ultra-slim always prevailed. objectification. Women, in particular

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1.6M PEOPLE IN THE UK UK size 4. In response to being told
to “only drink water for 24 hours” to
ALONE SUFFER FROM reduce “bloating”, Hoyer stated on
AN EATING DISORDER Instagram, “I’m 20 years old; not a 15
year old girl, who is new to this industry
have been known to compare and unsure about herself, because I
themselves to other women; and have no doubt that I would then have
women compare everything - height. ended up very sick and scarred”. Hoyer
size, hair length, makeup. It’s just claims that casting agents would attend
something women do — that is — to label breakfast to see if she had being defying
themselves in comparison to others. orders of eating; “I know that demands
When a person compares their own and expectations given to the high end
inner or self image to an image that fashion models in the industry are often
has been filtered, or edited, or even completely unattainable and directly
shot and curated to be shown on social damaging to the human body, but I
media, it can pose the threat to self- cannot accept the ‘normality’ in the
objectification and self-absorption. behaviour of people like this. They find
When self comparisons take place pleasure in power over young girls and
that person looks at themselves as the will go to the extreme to force an eating
spectator or observer. disorder on you”.

And it is this third party viewpoint which It appears that whether you are a viewer,
echos that of an eating disorder and of or a model, in the digital age and the
body dysmorphia issues. B-EAT claim modern world of fashion you are always
that the media is not soley responsible put in the firing line and in the view
for the fruition of eating disorders, but of criticism and judgement which can
can contribute to the development of damage one mentally and physically.
one through exposure to unhealthy and
unrealistic body image expectations. With Instagram being rated the worst
app for mental health issues by 1500
Even though there is pressure put on the 14-24 year olds in the UK, this poses
public to reach an ‘ideal’ figure, weight the question of whether there ever be
or look to ‘fit in’ with socio-cultural a balance of healthy is beautiful? This
expectations, the pressure is also on rating not only covered eating disorders,
for those who project this image to the but also covered other mental health
consumers of society; the models. issues such as depression, anxiety and
loneliness triggered by living in a digital
Ulrikke Hoyer, a Danish model, was told age. Is enough being done to protect the
running up to a Japanese Louis Vuitton mindsets of younger generations who
show in May 2017, that was she was “too are susceptible to images and thoughts
big” to walk the runway despite being a of what is ‘in’ and ‘liked’ being ‘right’?

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GOOD
AMERICAN
Khloe Kardashian and Emma Greedy
talk Good American, the denim line
promoting positive body image for all

What inspired the two of you to start
Good American jeans?

KK: Emma and I created Good American
Models: Various; The Good American Squad
Photography: Good American AW16
because we wanted jeans that can fit real
women, and we really feel like this has
been lacking in the market. Our denim
2016 saw the launch of a ‘Denim line will go from size 0 to size 24, but
Revolution’, founded by KUWTK star we don’t consider this a plus-sized line.
Khloe Kardashian and Marketing Expert We consider this a line for the everyday
Emma Greedy, making denim history. woman. We believe in embracing a
With sizes 00-24, Good American aims woman’s curves and I feel like now so
to be a positive influence in a currently many people are breaking down these
negative world of body shaming and barriers of not only going to a size 6 or
judging within the fashion industry, 8, which is considered “normal.” I’m
allowing anyone from ‘skinny’ to ‘curvy’ very proud of the message Emma and
to feel beautiful in their own skin. I are trying to get out into the world
Starting from a simple conversation on and we really hope that it transcends
what it means to be a woman in today’s into making women feel empowered in
harsh society of critics, glares and their own skin and knowing that there’s
lenses, Good American was born and is a line that’s going to give you all these
here to stay, make an impact and prove trends, you can still be fashion-forward
a point; you can have clothing that is and have everything that the “normal”
‘tailor’ made to fit you, and not the girls have, and I hate to say that, without
other way around. having to sacrifice anything else.

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GOODamerican

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GOODamerican

How was it decided that you would cast
real women and fans in your campaign For a lot of women, it’s so hard to find
instead of booked models? a pair of jeans that fits the right way.
How did you take that problem into
EG: Khloé put out a message on social account when it came to designing
media to say that she was launching Good American?
the brand. We really just wanted
women from all backgrounds to come EG: Well, that’s the whole thing, that’s
and be part of the campaign. We what everybody talks about and it’s not
had about 12,000 entries in 24 hours easy, that’s why not a lot of brands are
and we invited 250 people to come able to do it. We’ve spent a really, really
down to audition for the campaign; it long time developing a product that
was amazing. It was one of the most we can be proud of. There are a lot of
empowering, brilliant days because technical elements. What we’ve worked
we had all of these girls that had no really hard on is this contour waistband
idea what they were doing; they saw a which acts like a ‘self-belt’ and it means
manifesto on our website talking about that you never have that gap at the back
our values and what we wanted this if you have a smaller waist and a bigger
company to be and they responded to backside. You sometimes need to make
that. We’ve got this incredible campaign alterations and you’ll never need to do
with all these different women from that in these jeans. The fabric is super
different backgrounds, shapes, sizes, stretchy, has great recovery, the pattern
colors; it was really empowering to do is completely different so that all the
that right at the start of this brand. curve is in the hip. We’ve got some very
special stitching on our jeans so even
KK: What I took away from that the though they’re very plain, the stitching
most is that normally when you’re on is curved and it actually follows and
auditions people are like, “I’m not talking accentuates a woman’s figure.
to you, I want this role,” but everyone
who came into the room was like, “I just So, before all of this, did you have
made some new friends out there!” They someone you looked to as a positive
didn’t even know why they were there, body image role model when you were
they just knew there was a positive growing up?
message and they wanted to be part
of it. To see people that excited about KK: It’s so interesting because when
doing something that’s uplifting, that’s I was growing up heroin chic was the
something that really opened our eyes really cool thing. And there was Kate
and made us think, ‘wow there really is Moss. And she was gorgeous, but I was
a huge lack of this positivity in life and like, ‘I don’t identify with that body.’ I
building other women up in this field and always, weirdly enough, was attracted to
it’s horrible”. the Victoria’s Secret models of the world

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because they were more voluptuous. It
It wasn’t even because they were in bras
and panties. It was like, ‘Okay, I finally
see bodies that are a little more like
mine.’ And they’re not even bigger girls.
They just have bigger breasts and a little
curve. And also looking back there were KK: And with that we created our Good
so many girls with way bigger butts like Squad, which is the wonderful girls we
J,Lo, so it’s all good! It’s important to have representing our line. They’re bad
me, no matter what size I am or weight I ass ‘real’ girls who all have a lot going
am, to feel beautiful. Even at my biggest on in their lives. Women who are strong
I was rocking body con dresses and you and so versatile. We have girls of all
couldn’t tell me twice. That’s what I think different colors, ethnicities, heights and
Good American is. It’s about women of sizes. They have tattoos, shaved heads,
individuality and diversity, but also about literally everything. Because that’s really
being comfortable in yourself. That’s now what our world is. It’s not about the
what we’re trying to promote. It’s not cookie cutter ‘I’m a blonde with long
about fitting into a size two and that’s flowing hair’ look anymore, all people are
what makes you beautiful. I just want different and thats ok.
people to be healthy and love who they
are and be in control of your life. But it
doesn’t mean you have to be a size six. “IT’S NOT ABOUT
FITTING INTO A SIZE
So, overall, what does the name Good TWO AND THAT’S
American represent for you?
WHAT MAKES YOU
EG: First of all, we thought the name BEAUTIFUL”
Good American was a great name. But it
was more about a play on the words and Do you have any good tips for how to try
the connotations of what being “good” on denim?
means. Can you not be a really sexy girl
who shows off your body and be good EG: It’s ‘buy them online and try them
and do good in the world? We wanted at home.’ We don’t want that dressing
our company to also behave like a good room mirror situation. We stock them at
American. It’s about paying a fair living Nordstrom and we’re very, very happy to
wage to people, about operating in a be in stores, but the online experience
way people would find acceptable and has brought a whole new dimension to
manufacturing in America. So all those what is a really tricky purchase. If you
values of what it conjures up to be a can, buy a few pairs and try them on in
good American is what our company the comfort of your own home with your
should be and how it should behave. own clothes. That’s a major plus.

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GOODamerican

KK: I used to be a sales employee. And
sales employees, that’s their job. I have
been convinced that I look so good in
something and I’ve gotten home and
been like, ‘What the fuck did I just
buy?’ I’m a big online shopper. I think
nowadays it’s so accessible and easy.
You can do it on your phone. I just feel
I’m making the decision myself when I
shop online.

EG: And the nice thing about our
website is we’ve shot everything on
three different sized women. So you can
see who you’re closest in size to and see
“HAVING SIZES
how she looks. Which I think is a nice
touch on the website. 0 TO 24 IS NOT A
WEIRD THING.
It’s unusual to have a online website
THE AVERAGE SIZE
that showcases the clothes in various
sizes isn’t it? WOMAN IN AMERICA
IS A SIZE 16. SHE
EG: Why isn’t everybody doing that?
SHOULD BE ABLE TO
We’re like, ‘This is such a good feeling!
Why is everyone not doing it!’ But the GO IN HER LOCAL
reality of the fashion industry is that it’s STORE AND FIND A
really stuck. It’s stuck in this idea of only
PAIR OF JEANS!”
providing sample sizes. It’s stuck in this
idea of when you’re in a department
store you can’t actually go onto the
designer denim floor and find anything
above a 10. And 10 is relatively small. It’s
ridiculous. So this feels revolutionary
because it kind of is. We actually hope
other brands follow suit and it becomes
the norm. That’s why we keep talking
about a “denim revolution.” Having sizes
0 to 24 is not a weird thing. The average
size woman in America is a size 16. She
should be able to go in her local store
and find a beautiful pair of jeans!

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NADINE
LEBLOND
A candid interview with Fashion expert
Nadine LeBlond, a Creative Director
and Art Director based in London

Models: TK Maxx Customers
Photography: Eudes de Santana

At a time when some brands are Can you tell me a bit about your job role
pushing diversity out, leading the way working within the fashion industry?
with the stereotypical ‘white female’
stick-thin model, Nadine LeBlond I worked for TK Maxx as a Creative
encourages different ethnicities and Director and then worked for Hearst
age groups within her practice as a magazines, and ‘George’ clothing; both
freelance Art Director and Creative on a freelance basis. Most of the work
Director working in the Fashion was art direction, focusing on seasonal
industry. This interview reveals why campaigns and events. These were a
brands only utilise ‘one type’ of model, mixture of photographic and motion
and praises brands that realise the pieces. My background is in advertising
commerical benefits of diversity. The and design, working for top agencies, so
industry is slowly changing, and Nadine I came into the industry with a different
aims to put her mark on it allowing for and fresh mindset/perspective from
consumers to be who they really are. those who have always worked in it.

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NADINEleblond

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NADINEleblond

Do you feel pressure working in this And likewise, have you had any
industry to relay a positive body image experiences working with a brand who
and ideal to consumers? has wanted to project a ‘negative’ body
image or ideal, in your opinion?
Yes, definitely. I think it’s incredibly
important to convey a positive body Yes; but I won’t name names! Generally,
image to people, not just on an as an art director, my opinion is
ethical basis. But it also makes sense respected. I get involved in the casting
commercially. If people relate to the and have a say in the situation. I have
brand they feel an affinity to it. From had brands however not agree with
a moral perspective I’ve been on the using a plus sized model even when
other side of the camera and been told appropriate because their clothes go up
to lose weight by my modelling agency to a size 24! It is ultimately their money
despite being incredibly thin. It gave me and decision.
an incredibly unhealthy attitude towards
my own body image and led to me taking If I manage to push them at least some
prescription diet medication to meet of the way towards a more positive
the ideals requested by my agency... outcome that’s great; and even better,
which is incredibly damaging. at least I’ve tried and feel happy I’ve had
an influence however momentary.
Have you had any really positive
experiences in regard to this? If so, can As someone in your position, how do
you give some examples of your work you deal with this, or challenge this?
and brands which you feel have had a
positive impact in the industry? I usually put it forward within the
concept and give as strong as
Yes. I loved the TK Maxx ethos of using argument that I can from a commercial
‘real customers’ who were cast in store. perspective. Businesses don’t care
They are not professional models, are about most things… but they do care
a diverse age range and give a much about money.
more natural and ‘attainable’ impression
of the people that actually wear the What do you think can be done in the
clothes. They were incredibly positive industry to promote positive body
campaigns to work on. Other brands image and self-perception?
are doing a great job of pushing the
boundaries. Dove, M&S, Debenhams… Using models with a healthier body
a lot of brands are really pushing things weight. Presenting people in a happier
now. Even H&M are now embracing manner than are not overly self
‘women being women’ in all their shapes aware and are happy in themselves is
and sizes. High fashion doesn’t embrace important. Also, not over retouching
it… but the high street does. images can really help.

00
Do you think magazines need to do
more to showcase a variety of models
and body types? “IF I AM ALLOWED
Definitely, yes! But in general they ONE MALE, ONE
are starting to embrace the concept FEMALE, I MAKE SURE
of doing just that. Especially when ONE OF THEM IS THE
they realise the commercial benefits.
I understand that they want things to OPPOSITE IN TERMS
sell. It’s a tricky mix between creating a OF ETHNICITY TO THE
beautiful photograph and realism. But OTHER; TO PROMOTE
definitely more can be done. It’s not an
easy job though. most are responding AS MUCH DIVERSITY
to financial/commercial needs. It takes AS POSSIBLE.”
some bravery and it’s seen as a ‘risk’.
images/motion pieces. I get to work
With the rise of social media, do with some incredibly talented people
you think this has allowed brands to at my request. That to me is amazing.
use photos of models and promote As a negative... it can be an incredibly
campaigns which may not of been used bitchy, backstabbing and cut throat
previously in print? Does this have environment. You really have to be
an impact on body image and self- passionate about what you do and be
perception do you think? prepared to develop a very thick skin
that may not come naturally to you.
Social media definitely has both positive You have to separate your emotional
and negative effects. Istagram is very perspective and get the job done.
bad at creating an environment where
unnatural/non-realities are created and How do you tackle diversity and gender
make people feel bad about their own equality in the industry?
lives/self-image because it’s incredibly
unrealistic. Its doesn’t really show the I always suggest as much age diversity as
not so beautiful moments! Social media possible. But it comes down to budget.
can also be incredibly powerful because If I can only have one female model, she
it gives people a voice. They can talk to has to appeal to a diverse audience.
brands directly and get the brands to Then you have to be realistic and pick an
respond to their needs. age that is relative to the majority of the
purchasing demographic. If I am allowed
In your opinion what are the biggest one male, one female, I make sure one
downfalls and positives of the industry? of them is the opposite in terms of
ethnicity to the other; to promote as
I love fashion. I love creating beautiful much diversity as possible.

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BOBBI
RAE
A Feminst Illustrators perspective on
social media and it’s impact on her
professional practice

Article By: Bobbi Rae
Illustrations: Bobbi Rae

Bobbi Rae is an Illustrator based in ‘Drawn Together’
Leeds, West Yorkshire whom provokes
thought and a deeper sense of personal Many girls that I know find discomfort in
connection and intellect through themselves when they use social media
her feminist artwork. Her outlook is - over-comparisons, over-evaluation,
empowering, inspiring and for the over-judgement; based on unrealistic
greater good of women and their rights expectations set by the highlight reels of
to be whom they are, or want to be. other beautiful women.

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BOBBIrae

As if life isn’t already hard enough
without these unobtainable self-
expectations that we permit. Whilst I
am not usually one for so many words,
through my methods of illustration,
design and craft, I aim to unravel the
perception of beauty, to promote
liberation and celebrate women of all
shapes, sizes, colours and creeds.

As a feminist illustrator, it is important “I AIM TO UNRAVEL
to me to convey my beliefs, however, I
am also able to use these advantages to THE PERCEPTION OF
test, develop and create new audiences BEAUTY, TO PROMOTE
for my work. These serve the financial LIBERATION AND
imperatives of practice, demanded
by contemporary consumer culture, CELEBRATE WOMEN
which instills a feeling of servitude; I OF ALL SHAPES, SIZES,
am in owance to my crowd to provide COLOURS & CREEDS.”
a message that eeks joy, positivity and
empowerment. I feel empowered, I
am privileged, I am passionate for the
fundamental rights left to fight for. I
want my audiences to feel that.

Social media has obscene power;
that not only exists to engage diverse
audiences from across the world, but
is able to promote business, to create
vision and to sell ideas. To sell you
whiter teeth, shinier hair, a different
body. It is by these very means, however,
that others are able to provide a space
for dialogue, feedback and exchange.
It is in my experiences and through the
stories of others, that my own platforms
become a space for confronting gender
issues and challenging the perceived
roles of women.

For more artwork, visit bobbirae.co.uk
or search @bearcubs on Instagram

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@ssssamanthaa
She learns that ‘to be desired’,
is much more important than
‘to feel desire’.
@jamiegenevieve
@desiperkins
PORN CHIC &
OBJECTIFICATION
How the ideologies of ‘porn chic’ and
self-objectification have transitioned
and developed due to social media

Porn chic has become a sensation ‘porn chic’ bracket, leadingto self-
amongst social media, being a daily objectification, whilst seeking desire to
occurance on our social media feeds. create a following and sell their brand,
We scroll through daily and see an product and lives. Does this mean
array of pouted lips, enhanced breasts that women feel empowered with the
and curvaceous derrières, with guise of female sexuality? Or do these
bloggers, celebrities and ‘normal’ girls, changes now constitute what is seen as
often posing in over sexualised, and a step forward for women, with one now
objectifying positions; craving attention being able to express their sexuality,
and reassurance. And with this, this needs and desires, opposed to being
behaviour has become the norm, and directed by others to create a visage of
what some expect to see. Furthermore, visuals, often stimulated by misogyny;
porn chic sells in a multitude of ways, male photographers and art directors,
just as sex always has done. Writer working to stimulate a predominantly
Annette Lynch describes the term, male audience? Times appear to of
‘porn chic’ in relation to females as, changed this percepion and ideology
“actively desiring sexual objects of the drastically.
new millenium” who are aware and
concious of the male gaze, opposed Fashion has always gone hand-in-
to being “passive, mute objects of the hand with trend-led and marketed
male gaze”, therefore lending itself constructions of gender, identity, and
to marketing strategies and the social now, self-objectification, seeing brands
media stratosphere of being accepted, such as American Apparel, Tom Ford and
approved, seen and most importantly, Wrangler, buildind brands and empires
‘liked’, desired and adored. One now through ‘sex’ and porn chic-led imagery.
intentionally puts themselves in this However, now this strategy has

00
‘REVEALING’ LEADS
WOMEN TO FEEL
EMPOWERED DUE TO
ATTRACTING THE
MALE GAZE
overtaken fashion and now sells ‘beauty’ self-objectification and self-absorption.
and the influencers and/or ‘internet When self-comparisons take place
celebrities’ which coincide and face that person looks at themselves as
brands and promotional campaigns. the spectator or observer”, therefore
Some beauty bloggers have even built realising how they want to position and
their following and career based on promote themselves, and therefore how
their physique, opposed to their they want to be percieved.
makeup artistry skill set; an ironic twist,
to modern day contradictions and But does ‘porn chic’ and self-
conventions of the industry. objectification affect self-perceptions
and the perceptions of others? It has
Influencers all around the world are been found that the amount of time
now showcasing their finest ‘assets’ spent on social networks was associated
in return for brand sponsorships and with greater self-objectification. Women
endorsements. This self-objectification have a long history of being objectified
alienates women, allowing one to view in the media from television, music
their body as a separate object of the videos, and print magazines, why would
male gaze and desire. The decision to the objectification just stop at these
‘reveal’ leads women to feel empowered mediums, especially in a society where
due to their ability to attract the male we live day-to-day in the digital age? It
gaze, rather than be subjected to it appears that as time moves on, so does
unknowingly. One is fully in control over the mentality of such ideologies and how
their body and behaviour, and to some these are played out over time, also.
reinforces different types of feminisim
and strengths. Some can argue that women push
the ideology of ‘porn chic’ and self-
Fredrickon and Roberts have researched objectification due to issues with low
into how social media may lead women self-esteem, vanity, or insecurities,
to self-objectify themselves, however, as well as comparative traits, which
through comparisons with others may be amplified through social
in their positions; “when a person media, therefore posting and using
compares their own inner or self-image such provocative images on the same
to an image that has been filtered on mediums, reinforces their acceptance
social media it can pose the threat to through the approval of others.

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“Fashion magazines are considered a
main source of information regarding
the attractive ideal presenting looks
and products in a way that evokes
consumers to buy into them”
Warchocki (2007) & Gonzalez, (2012)
VOGUE
JAPAN
Beauty Director Kyoko Muramatsu
reveals how Vogue Japan differs
cross-culturally to Western Editions

Model: Vittoria Ceretti How is Japanese culture reflected
Photography: Luigi and Lango through Vogue Nippon? How does this
Styling: Anna Della Russo differ to Western editions?
Hair: Luigi Murenu
Makeup: Georgi Sandev
Japanese Vogue is very different to
the British or American versions, for
Fashion magazines have a powerful example, but we have our reasonings.
hold and influence over the reader; Our target audience is generally a lot
and in recent times has expanded into younger - Western editions are aimed at
the Beauty realm with Vogue Japan women around 30 years old, but here,
leading the way with its mix of content. I we find out readership to be late-teens
met with Kyoko Muramatsu, the Beauty and early 20s. This is seen to be honest
Director of Vogue Japan (Nippon) to through the aesthetic which we use;
understand how Vogue operates on an it’s fun, playful and lighthearted in tone
International scale and to understand of voice, which reflects ‘youthfuless’,
how Vogue differs cross-culturally in something Japanese women aspire to.
regard to audience, trends, content We use a lot collage, illustration and
and aesthetic, as well as understanding smaller design elements opposed to
how they maintain their ‘identity’ in a heavy grid-led blocks of design and text.
saturated market. This is just what we have found to work,

00
VOGUEjapan

but if you look at other Japanese magazines such as
ViVi, Ginza and Nylon, we still look ‘older’ fitting in with
the demographic that Vogue sets out for us. I think in
general as a nation we have a more playful approach
to editorial design, where as other editions are a lot
cleaner; they’re more affluent and stripped back, but I
think that we inject a lot of energy into our layouts and
features.

We also have a lot of ‘step by step’ guides. The
Japanese audience need to know how to use beauty
products, which they’re investing in so they want to
know exactly how this works and will look when use. I
think this stems from a lack of imagination so to speak.
Western women are better in just ‘putting themselves
together’, where as even with fashion, women here
need a bit more guidance and direction.

I think another main difference and point of cultural
difference is the trends and products which are
relayed in Vogue Japan; a lot of them come from
Korea and the catwalks, and tend to be different to
Western ones. We don’t really have contouring or
heavy makeup, the women here want to look young, so
you’ll often see more natural looks and different takes
on this being featured. And of course, models. Now
when we can we will use Japanese models, but this is
only where it is appropriate. Vogue has to maintain an
International identity, so you will see a lot of Western
models, and as many women here aspire to this look
it is only right to do so. When we do use Japanese
models though, some of them are half-Japanese, and
half-American for example. This gives an sense of
identity still for the reader which one can relate to, but
it is also good to have more ‘Western’ features shown
in the magazine. I suppose that’s how our culture
differs, people here, mainly women, aspire to have
light-skin and long legs, so in a way we give them what
they want whilst also fitting in with the corporate image
of Vogue, and keeping in line with the models which
you’d see being use in International campaigns too.

00
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VOGUEjapan

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VOGUEjapan

Over the years there have only been 3
So is this why Western models are used
Japanese women to feature?
in fashion and beauty advertisements in
Japan, rather than recreating them with
Our choice of cover model is really
Japanese models?
important; it defines the International
identity of Vogue. It also opens up the
Yes. Campaigns, advertisements and
magazine to an International audience,
editorials for example, are normally art
which is why the headlines are in English
directed and shot in line with the brand
with Japanese sub-text. The idea being
image and identity, therefore using
that anyone can understand the content,
the same model - it helps brands such
even if they can’t read the full article.
as Chanel, for example, to create an
But in terms of cover model, yes, the
International brand identity. But saying
Japanese relate to Western icons. This is
that, some brands may shoot the models
differently if the campaign will be seen
nd used in more conservative countries, “VOGUE HAS TO
but more often than not, you will see the MAINTAIN A BROAD
same image being used, but cropped in
a different way. It’s very clever, and it INTERNATIONAL
does keep the costs of casting and re- IDENTITY, SO YOU
shooting down. WILL SEE WESTERN
When it comes to adverts through, MODELS. WE DO USE
you may of noticed that unlike British JAPANESE MODELS
Vogue for example, we don’t print as THOUGH & SOME ARE
many in our magazines. You will normally
see them on billboards or outside the HALF-JAPANESE, AND
shops themselves. Instead to create a HALF-AMERICAN.”
connection with the Japanese reader,
which can sometimes be lost, we use through commercialisation of brands
a lot of advertorials which allows us and consumerism, so we often have a
to choose location and message, for Western icon even if they are wearing
example. So we may choose our own Japanese brands; it helps with sales
model, but use the same products and keeping advertising campaigns
and clothing for example, which are consistent, but also keeps the identity of
shown in the advert but we can tailor it the magazine true to Vogue.
more to appeal to our audience more,
whilst keeping in line with our editorial What is Vogue Japans reaction to the
aesthetic and take on Vogue. It’s more rise in blogger culture?
personal and we have creative control.
These are then approved by the brand to Well to be honest, Jaanese fashion and
ensure we are keeping to their identity. beauty bloggers are not as well known or

00
recognised, so when we feature an want to give women the impression
article relating to bloggers we mainly do that if one goes on a diet they will look
use Western bloggers or Instagrammers. like a Westener, we want people to feel
As a magazine, we don’t feel that we healthy in themselves, and if anything
have found the right Japanese bloggers enhance what they have and can
yet; it’s still growing and isn’t quite maintain. This is now actually common
there yet as it is in the West. Brands practice across Vogue as a whole,
don’t tend to use bloggers to promote especially now we have ‘The Health
their products and campaigns here, it Initiative’.
is still very celebrity focused. Even in
some areas of Japan, bloggers are not What is The Health Initiative?
recognised as a legitimate source of
information, and it is seen as a big risk This is a pact basically between all 19
to use them. Yes, social media is very Editors of Vogue around the world,
popular, but not in the same way as to encourage a healthier approach
in the UK for example, when it comes to positive body image. We know as a
to marketing strategies. There is a big magazine we have the power, if you like,
fascination here with Western women to influence people, and we want to
and their culture; their image, their influence people in positive ways. So we
style, their skin, so we give the readers now try to use models who are healthy
what they want and know and it isn’t and promote a body image which is
often that bloggers fall into this category attainable and ‘normal’. I know this
or demand at the moment. Maybe in sounds a little contradictory however as
time this will change, we will see. we are a Japanese edition whom still use
Western models, but we are advised on
Do you feel as Director, that there is a which models we cast, and that’s why
pressure to relay a positive body image when we can we do use Japanese or
to the reader? Especially due to the half-Japanese models.
fascination with the West and Western
women that you have mentioned? In Japan, technology is huge. There
are apps to give one a ‘gajin look’ and
Yes, of course. I think because Japanese technologies in Shiseido stores for one
women want to be like, and aspire to to try products virtually. Have these
‘gajins’ (foreigners) we have to be careful innovations impacted on Vogue at all?
but give them what they want to read,
but to not completely blur the lines of There hasn’t been any direct impact on
achieveable and not attainable. printed magazines at the moment, but
in the next 5 years we do expect that we
We as a Japanese edition of Vogue will have to embed such technologies to
decided to not use the word ‘diet’; we our digital platforms and feature more
use the word ‘healthy’ instead. We don’t UI/UX to engage with the reader more.

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“Social media presents and represents
an impossible ideal look, the average
person cannot achieve this. If only
Instagram made real life filters... you
can’t edit real life”
Anon, (2017)
SAMANTHA
RAVNDAHL
The leading beauty vlogger and
influencer talks candidly about industry
pressures and self-perception issues

Model and Makeup: Samantha Ravndahl
Photography: Ruby James

Samantha Ravndahl (@ssssamanthaa), alike, Samantha gives her account
boasts a staggering 2.4m followers on of her experience as a modern day
Instagram alone. She is a Canadian ‘influencer’ and the subsequent
beauty blogger and vlogger, who rose pressures which go hand-in-hand with
to fame with her candid YouTube such title.
channel (formerly known as Batalash
Beauty) back in 2014 before the ‘beauty Anyone would of thought that being a
boom’ exploded worldwide. Exploring beauty influencer would be the dream
the impacts that social media platforms job; events, freebies, sponsorships and
have had on her, Samantha talks openly constant admiration. But what happens
about the career path that many find when you reach a level of influence that
oh, so glamorous; yet behind the visage starts to in turn influence your own
is danger of self-perception issues. behaviour and believes? With a large
social media following, fans and high
Known for being brutally honest, loud expectations, it can be hard to break
and brash with both personality and away after growing to an exponentially
her style of reviews and tutorials high status of admiration.

00
SAMANTHAravndahl

“Everyone expects me to look like I do on
Instagram all the time. I don’t wear glam
makeup all the time”, Samantha states.
She continues, “you know, everyone
expects you to look ‘photo-ready’ all the
fucking time”, hinting at competitive
and exceptive behaviours from social
media communities and social groups.
It appears it is taken that what is seen
on social media is ‘real’, and not edited,
airbrushed and well photoshopped
imagery forming part of the ‘act’,
therefore it is expected you look the
same in day to day life, all the time. “It’s
become a competition about who can
look the most fucking glamorous at 8am
in the gym. And then document it on
social media”, Samantha claims hinting
at the narcissist traits of those involved
in the industry. “All this has done to me
is cheapen all the experiences I have.
Like, I get taken away to amazing places
I could only dream of, and I’m not even
taking the scenery in or where I am. It’s
become about where the best lighting is,
or what acts as the best backdrop for a
photo to post online”.

It’s painful to hear that social media
and the opinions of others can damage
someones life experiences, as well
as their values and self confidence.
Samantha states that she was taken away
by an undisclosed brand for a launch
event, and was bought clothes to wear,
even though she took her own, and that
she was the only influencer in the group
to have this experience; “they must of
thought I was too casual or something, it
sucks, it’s like let me be me. The role of
an influencer these days is that you are

00
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SAMANTHAravndahl

paid to be beautiful and look a certain
way, and apparently I didn’t look that
‘certain’ way”.

But, it seems that influencer and blogger
culture hasn’t always been this way;
“this culture, was initially a positive
experience, where ‘blogging’ originally
had an emphasis on makeup artistry
skillset, and actually being fucking good
at the craft, opposed to this present “EVERYONE EXPECTS
day ideology of being classed as an
‘influencer’ and how many likes or views
YOU TO LOOK
you get”. This change echos the increase ‘PHOTO-READY’ ALL
of beauty bloggers and YouTubers THE FUCKING TIME”
around the world, apparently in the
West. It seems that everyone wants a influencers were offered the
piece of the influencer game, which opportunity to create their own
in turn has become damaging to those lipstick shade to be sold in their native
working in it, as well as those who view it countries; a very clever marketing
for fun or guidance. trick from the global brand, whilst also
promoting their social media accounts
Samantha at one point in her career, in a new and tactical manner.
was massively against sponsorships
and undisclosed advertisements, but It appears that the influencer industry
now with her increased following has is growing, and Samantha knows she
been offered many opportunities got lucky with her success - “it was all
and now makes it clear in all of her about the timing, and I think I offered
posts and videos, which are and are something different at the time, as well
not sponsored. “I’m not gonna lie, if as being honest about shit. I won’t say
someone offers you $5000 and you get I like something if I don’t and I won’t
taken to Bora Bora to promote a brand, work with brands I don’t agree with” -
or a brand offers you money to do a and is now successful enough to pick
video, or go to an event and talk about and choose who she works with. But at
a specific product, you aren’t gonna the same time, self-perceptions and
turn that down. Who would? We all have selfhood are being dented, manipulated
to live and have bills to pay”, Samantha and criticised all the time, in person and
states openly and honestly. March 2017 on social media. Is there ever a way back
also saw the launch of Samantha’s own down to ‘normality’ when you reach the
MAC Lipstick in collaboration with top of your game, or is this something
the brand. 10 of the worlds largest that you have to learn to live with?

00
the 101

HOW
TO BE
SOCIAL
MEDIA
FAMOUS
lights
camera
action
the key to successful
fashion marketing;

tits, arse, skin,
provocative poses
and celebrities.
climbing the beauty
blogger ladder;

take selfies, try to be
original and wait for
likes and reassurance.
selfie
selfie
selfie
like,
so many
likes
what to pack
for your holiday;

camera, vlog camera,
iphone, mini ring light,
highligter and sass.
what to do;

hire a photographer,
find a good location,
take 5 outfits worth
of photos in a day and
remember, act like no
one is watching.
strike
a pose
get
some style
what to wear;

buy loads of designer
shit you can’t afford,
and send it back until
you get sent the real
deal from their PR.
“The ‘Universal Elite’ in present day
society holds up to its members
the role of the consumer, and the
members of our society are likewise
judged by their ability and willingness
to play that role”
Bauman, (2004)
WESTERNbloggerculture

The 1st Fashion and
Beauty blog was
launched in the US
in 2010. Since then
‘The Industry’ has
boomed. Bloggers
are now known
as ‘Influencers’
and are being
used as marketing
commodities by
International brands.

00
77% of all bloggers
are female, and
within this 27% of
those are bloggers
within the beauty and
fashion industries.

00
Western

BEAUTY
INFLUENCERS
the ones to watch on Instagram
With the world going beauty mad,
The Industry magazine has selected
the most influential beauty bloggers to
follow in 2017!.. you know you want to!

00
WESTERNbeautyinfluencers

@jamiegenevieve
741k followers

@tanyaburr
3.2m followers

@desiperkins
3.3m followers

@makeupbyalinna
1.5m followers

00
WESTERNbeautyinfluencers

@sheidafashionista
542k followers

@thepatriciabright
566k followers

@iluvsarahii
3.5m followers

@christendominique
1.1m followers

00
@nikkitutorials
7.6m followers

@jaclynhill
4.1m followers

@mannymua
3.6m followers

@ssssamanthaa
2.4m followers

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WESTERNfashionbloggers

ani
Chiara Ferrig

@theblondesalad
347k followers
theblondesalad.com

@kristinabazan
2.4m followers
kayture.com
Kristina Bazan

ong
Aimee S

@songofstyle
4.6m followers

Julia Engel

@juliahengel
1.1m followers

00
Western

FASHION
BLOGGERS
the ones to watch
Fashion bloggers have become the modern muses
of 21st Century fashion, showcasing the newest
trends and brands. These are the stand-out
influencers to be aware of and follow!

00
EASTASIANbloggerculture

Welcome to
Harajuku, Tokyo,
where the saying
goes: “the nail that
sticks out, must be
hammered back
in” pressurising
conformity, in return
causing a backlash
of self-expression,
unique identities and
‘kawaii’ to be derived
and interspersed
with Western
influences and style.

00
00
EASTASIANbeautyinfluencers

@pearypie
1.5m followers

@ellenvflora
423k followers

@flamcis
284k followers
@imjennim
1.5m followers

00
East Asian

BEAUTY
INFLUENCERS
the ones to watch on Instagram
Beauty influencers in Eastern Asia are still low-
key, not being recognised or trusted as much
as ‘celebrities’ to endorse major brands and
products, however; The Industry magazine has
selected a few we predict will be big when the
tide turns! Recognised influencers tend to have
a combination of Western and Kawaii traits!

00
EASTASIANfashionbloggers

East Asian

FASHION
BLOGGERS
the ones to watch

Fashion bloggers are still not as popular or in
demand in Eastern Asia as Celebrities, however due
to Western culture influences and a Japanese desire
to conform, this has allowed for a wave of ‘Western-
style influencers’ to appear. These are the ones to
be aware of!

00
00
“The increase in blogger culture,
particularly in relation to Instagram
and YouTube, has allowed for many
to reach ‘celebrity’ status themselves;
and in return the media has adapted
to [this] reflecting the world of
celebrity dominance”
Gibson, (2012)
MANNY
X
JEFFREE
The worlds leading male makeup artists
and influencers talk reaching the top in
a female dominated industry

Models: Manny Gutierrez and Jefree Star
Makeup: Manny Gutierrez and Jefree Star
Photography: Jefree Star Cosmetics

Influencers and bloggers are becoming
extremely successful in the West, and
thanks to social media platforms this
has expanded beyond the stereotypical
target market of females.With only
23% (Vuelio, 2016) of beauty bloggers
being male, the gender divide is
slowly changing, whilst impacting
the distortion of the male gaze and
perceptions at the same time.

Manny Gutierrez and Jeffree Star, are
the most influential male influencers
of the 21st century. With a ‘celebrity’
status, 7m YouTube followers, and 8m
Instagram followers between them, the
male stars have recently teamed up
with a cosmetic collaboration of liquid
lipsticks and highlighters, taking over
the beauty world unlike seen before.

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MANNYxjeffree

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MANNYxjeffree

The beauty world can be tough to crack,
but Manny and Jeffree are no strangers
to the industry, and along their way to
cosmetic stardom have also changed the
face of it; for the good.

Each has their own story, but together “I BELIEVE THAT
the powerhouse dominate social
media, sponsorships and product BOYS DESERVE JUST
sales, leading to the 2017 collaboration AS MUCH COSMETIC
of a limited edition set of on-trend RECOGNITION AS GIRLS
products compiling of two liquid
lipsticks and a highlighter; which sold IN THE INDUSTRY”
out internationally in less than a day. The
MANNY MUA
notion of two males releasing a makeup
range has been recieved warmly, with
open arms, despite the industry still
being predominatley led by females.

Starting off as a MySpace star in the
early 2000s, Jeffree was noticed for his
pink hair and outlandish makeup looks.
Increasing followers, and a change in
the direction of social media saw him
push his way into the beauty scene as a
career path, working as a freelance make
up artist with celebrity clients, fashion
editorials, music videos and weddings.
His success grew, leading on to YouTube
tutorials which became an international
sensation. Now, Jeffree is known for his
makeup master classes taught around
the world, and his own cosmetic line,
branded, ‘Jeffree Star Cosmetics’,
claiming that the range is for “anyone
who is fearless enough to be their own
person”. Being a fan of makeup since he
was 13, Jeffree hopes to “inspire each
other to stay true to who we are” despite
critism and stereotyping, encouraging
diversity and positive self-hood.

00
Manny took a similar route to Moments like these are some of the
encouraging differentiation in the reasons these particular influencers
beauty industry, using Instagram as a pour their hearts and souls into creating
platform to promote his artistry skills content every single day. Inspiring men
and YouTube to showcase tutorials and as well as women to embrace what
collaborative videos with Jeffree and they love and who they are has become
influencer Patrick Starrr alike. In 2015 their mantra, hence joining forces.
it was announced that an eyeshadow Manny states that, “men want to feel
palette created with Makeup Geek the same way that women feel [and
Cosmetics would be launched and sold be] empowered in that way”. Clearly
internationally. This single product their passion, drive, personality and
caused such an online sensation and candid honesty has resulted in the
hype, that it crashed the site’s servers world watching and catching on - when
within 1 hour of being released and both influencers were starting out,
propelled his success to the next level. male makeup artists were few and far
In 2016, Manny was the first ever male between on YouTube and Instagram and
ambassador for Maybelline Cosmetics, were often only seen behind the scenes
appearing in a range of print and digitally of catwalk shows.
led campaign materials and videos.
Now, he is sponsored by the likes of But despite the positive demeanours,
NYX Cosmetics, Urban Decay and Kylie when your career involves baring
Cosmetics to promote their brands, your soul to millions of people, trolls
products and events. inevitably come out of the woodwork. “I
get hate every single day, saying I’m gay
Even though the route to success [and] going to hell, or that I don’t know
sounds easy for both male stars, Manny what I’m doing or that I need help. Now
claims that the path wasn’t easy due to that I have this platform, it makes me
being a ‘guy’; “in the beginning, it was want to fight even harder” claims Manny,
really confusing; my parents and friends Jeffree falls under a similar umbrella,
didn’t know what was going on,” he says, being known for being different and
“they thought I was trying to become a proud of it; “no hate to anyone else,
woman, and they didn’t understand.” but all these big YouTubers do the same
However, several years later the tides shit: glowy, bronzy, boring makeup, and
have turned as he explains a recent I’m like, “Can we have something else,
encounter at a meet and greet event in please?” So I’m stepping in.”
the US; “a guy walked in, he was 12 or 14
with a full face of makeup and his dad It appears that even though personally
was there, this macho man with blue they may of had negative experiences,
jeans and a cowboy hat. He was so proud the positive impact of helping others
of his son. It felt like the world was with their self-perception encourages
changing in that moment.” an ever-diversifying, positive industry.

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ECONOMY
OF BEAUTY
China’s booming live-streaming video
industry fuelled by beauty, fashion and
the wannabe-famous

Models: Various
Photography: VICE ft. Motherboard

Blogger and vlogger culture in the The recent broadband-quick rise in
UK and US has reached an all time popularity in China of apps such as Lai
high. Everywhere you go influencers Feng, and the people who broadcast on
are there; on POS (point of sale) for them, has caused a new branch of the
cosmetic products, promoting clothes internet technology industry to spring
in Topshop or on your Instagram or up around it. This industry being the
YouTube feed. China has jumped on live-streaming culture which both males
board with this phenomenon, with and females in China are desperate to
a blogger empire of their own, but be apart of with potential to earn the
has also launched interactive live- equivalent of $100,000 a month, simply
streaming video services. These services by broadcasting their ‘talents’ and lives
take form of online apps and websites, to their viewers, followers or ‘fans’.
ran by large media agencies across
Beijing, that are already becoming Agencies have been set up around
multi-million dollar empires. Males the country, mainly in Beijing which
and females alike are broadcasting house the live-streamers and act as a
their lives, ‘talents’, sense of style and backdrop for their videos doting to their
beauty in return for cash, gifts and every need. The REDO Media agency
confidence boosting praise in return for for example, has around 3,000 internet
internet stardom and status. stars on its books from across China,

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ECONOMYofbeauty

many of whom self-broadcast as their have risen by 80%, simply due to this
full-time jobs. Some simply talk, some marketing strategy. A main selling point
dance, some sing, some dress up and and strategy of the live-streaming apps
perform what their viewers ask, and and websites is to use ‘beautiful’ males
some simply answer questions. What and females. Some, as young as 20 years
they do is their choice, however they old, admit to having various aesthetic
often have to ‘audition’ to be apart of surgeries carried out to fit in with the
larger agencies such as REDO. ‘ideal’ look of China; lip implants, double
eye-lid surgery and facial alterations to
Behind each door at REDO Media, is give one a ‘slimmer’ face. This influence
a small dormitory-style room, with coming in from the Korean market
broadcasters streaming from a tripod- heavily dictates who is taken on board
mounted iphone or webcam. The by agencies, and some will go to the
broadcasters ‘perform’ and interact, extremes of having such work done
live, for real money and digital gifts. At simply to pursue live-streaming as a
times, they are even sent gifts by their career path; even if only for a few years.
followers. Some will even dress to please
their audience; sometimes as mermaids Even though agencies such as REDO
and other times as princesses. Media’s female self-broadcasters are
largely chosen for their attractiveness,
Due to the spike in the amount of people they rarely do anything racier on camera
watching these streamers live over than show a bit of cleavage. Authorities
the past year, doing this full time has in China have clamped down hard on the
become a lucrative job for thousands of industry over the past year in an attempt
women. Women self-broadcasters with to eliminate “inappropriate content”
the firm outnumber men by around nine from the web, shutting down thousands
to one. This however, is hardly surpising. of live-stream accounts. Last November
a 21 year-old woman from Chengdu was
Even though there is a ‘fetish’ element at jailed for four years for live-streaming
times involved, be it dress-up or simply herself enjoying a foursome. In May that
watching the broadcaster eat their same year, “erotic” banana eating in live-
evening meal, the fascination is real and streams was banned.
has expanded beyond fantasy to brand
marketing; similar to the influencer Even though live-streaming video apps in
and blogger empires built in the West. the West such as Periscope are popular,
Some are paid to wear particular in the UK and US, viewers cannot pay
clothing brands, and even help design the broadcaster. At most, this comes
them. Tabao and 11/11, Chinese clothing from a brand or sponsor; echoing many
brands, send out clothing to be worn on YouTube tutorials and Instagram posts.
live-streams and for fashion-streamers China seems to of found a way to please
to talk about the products in detail. Sales the viewer, whilst also gaining something

00
in return for the broadcaster, other than “EARNING $100,000 A
‘popularity’ and internet stardom and
celebrity status. MONTH IS EASY IN THIS
INDUSTRY. IF SOMEONE
In regard to gifting, and personal gain, SENDS ME A GIFT I’LL
some females such as Zi Jing, a 23
year-old broadcaster, uses coyness SAY, ‘OH, DID YOU GIVE
and naivety to do so. Zi claims to use ME A GIFT? I DIDN’T SEE
impressively sneaky tactics, as well as IT. CAN YOU PLEASE
this “real”-ness, contributing to her
success; “if someone sends me a gift I’ll SEND IT AGAIN?’”
say, ‘Oh, did you give me a gift? I didn’t
see it. Can you please send it again?’”

Many of the broadcasters working
with agencies such as REDO Media are
University students and have ambitions
to be proper ‘real life’ celebrities, and
go on to work in TV. For many, though,
working as a self-broadcaster is lucrative
enough and can gain exactly what they
want from it as Zi demonstrates. It
provides easy, flexible work: a tempting
alternative to ‘normal’ employment in
China’s cutthroat graduate job market.

But how satisfying is making a living
letting people watch you all day
through your iPhone? Does it make the
broadcasters and their parents proud?
Zi insists it does. “My mum thinks being
a broadcaster is not as easy as people
think. She supports me”. But in the
long-run how could this affect a sense
of normality, self-confidence and self-
worth? Do we value ourselves based on
the gifts we recieve and and the number
of viewers? What happens when another
broadcaster takes the top spot in the
ratings? Food for thought perhaps as
one contemplates the digital realm.

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“Attractiveness of Japanese women
was rated the highest for ‘light’ skin”
Tagal et al for Shiseido, (2016)
JAPANESE
BEAUTY
Revealing how the East differs to the
West in the beauty world; from ideals to
trends and product innovation

Models: Lauren de Graaf, Zhenya Migovych,
Katherine Moore, Ally Ertel, Luping Wang and
Angelica Erthal.
Makeup: Emi Kaneko
Photography: Nicholas Kantor

Warchocki states that in regard be seen on the shelves, unlike in the
to body image and beauty trends, West, launching a constant emphasis
“fashion magazines are considered a on looking ‘young’ and ‘light’ skin.
main source of information regarding
the attractive ideal” posing as a Whilst proving to be a good sales
sourcebook of unattainable, nor technique of enticing a consumer into
maintainable ‘looks’. This is known to a dream world of aesthetics, this also
be due to an influx of advertisements enforces the ideology that with such
and product endorsements that products, one may also look this way and
“present such looks and products in achieve such image in return, therefore
a way that evokes consumers to buy affecting ones self-perception, self-
them” (Gonzalez), in an aim to achieve hood and individuality. But why in
the proposed ‘ideal’. This movement is Japan is there an emphasis on facial
however moving away from traditional looks opposed to physiques? Enticing
fashion advertisements as seen in the a consumer into a dream world of
past 2-3 years, influenced by the rise aesthetics, this ideology of full-beauty
of beauty trends and brands, therefore magazines also enforces the ideology
propelling advertising into a realm. This that with such products, one may also
is evident especially in Japan where not look this way and achieve such image in
only fashion magazines are on offer, return, therefore affecting ones self-
full glossy beauty magazines can also esteem and body image.

00
JAPANESEbeauty

It is apparent that Western and Japanese in-group and out-group comparisons
socio-cultural ideals and aspirations are are prevalent in day-to-day lives,
different. The West have an emphasis contrasting with how Western cultures
on a ‘pursuit to perfection’, replicating implies this through a more digital,
celebrity, icons, or model looks, whilst celebrity and icon led trend, rather
Japan maintains a focus on Western than being influenced by historical and
culture and socio-cultural, historical socio-cultural roots. By intergroup
traditions. Unlike Western women comparison, whether in the West, or in
whom often cherish their beauty of Japan one can tell compare their looks
diversity and race, Ashikari claims that and strive to be apart of a group through
in contrast, Japanese women strive to aesthetic changes. In the West this is
be ‘white’ in order to negate from a done through tanning and glamour,
“us and them” dichotomy, whilst also whilst in Japan, skin-lightening and
being influenced by the media denoting youthful, beautiful skin takes precedent,
‘ideals’ through international advertising mimicking what they expect the ‘ideal
and marketing campaigns. Western’ to also be like.

The dichotomy regards class and social Wagatsuma argues that the notion
status in Japan rooting back to the of “white/beautiful versus black/
1800s. Japanese beauty blogger Nicole ugly” originates from a “preference of
Takahashi explains; “those whom worked whiteness being rooted in Japanese
manual labour jobs outside gained a tan, people’s own history” combined with
and were therefore deemed by society a huge Westernised consumer culture.
to be ‘poor’, whilst those who worked This culture is often seen in department
inside, were ‘lucky’ enough to keep stores; Western brands such as L’Oreal
their light skin, in turn exuding a more will still use Western models for the
affluent status”. For Western women campaigns, whilst Japanese brands such
this dichotomy is often hard to relate as Shiseido will take the same approach,
to, with the polar opposite being key to hammering home a constant ideal of an
their lifestyles and ‘ideals’; being tanned ‘ideal’ light skinned woman being the
means one has been on holiday, and has face of modern day beauty. In Japanese
enough money or the privilege to do so, culture, Western models will feature
whilst also stemming back to fashion in highbrow magazines such as Vogue
runway shows such as Victoria Secret, Japan, mimicking this socio-cultural
whereby all the models are bronzed, ideal. Muramatsu, the Beauty Director
deeming a ‘sexy’ look. at Vogue Japan states that if an ideal
Western model can’t be booked for a
In theoretical terms for context, this photoshoot, “Western-looking Japanese
correlates with Tajfel and Turner’s models will be used” giving the Japanese
(1986) social identity model, whereby a ‘symbol’ of aspiration and affluence to
in-group and out-group comparisons strive towards and buy into.

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“THOSE WHOM
WORKED
OUTSIDE GAINED
A TAN, AND WERE
THEREFORE
DEEMED TO
BE ‘POOR’;
WHILST THOSE
WHO WORKED
INSIDE, KEPT
THEIR LIGHT
SKIN, EXUDING
AN AFFLUENT
STATUS..”

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JAPANESEbeauty

Cash et al. conducted a study for supplements, face masks and drinks.
Japanese beauty and skincare brand Products of this bizarre nature to
Shiseido in 2016, claiming that “applying Western women, claim to give ‘babyish’
facial cosmetics affects women’s self- skin, hinting at youthfulness. The
image positively” even if in Japan this advertisements and product packaging
denotes youthful, natural skin. Takahashi however show this in a perverted
also claims that the typical Japanese manner, opposed to using ‘youthful
woman applies makeup often to look models’. Images often used showcase
like there is not makeup on, rather Western babies to endorse such
using cosmetics to ‘polish’ perfect, product traits and contents. This itself
light skin, opposed to focusing on heavy shows an extreme cultural obsession
and glamourous makeup trends which with youthfulness. It is worth noting
are often seen in the West, and this is however in context, that Japanese child
reinforced through beauty editorials as pornography was only made illegal in
often seen in the Japanese editions of 2014, hammering home how popular
Vogue and Harpers Bazaar. The Shiseido ‘youth’ and ‘baby culture’ is in Japan
study also found that, “attractiveness of across an array of markets.
Japanese women was rated the highest
for light makeup faces, opposed to heavy In addition, many cosmetics brands such
makeup faces”. as Maybelline in Japan, are promoted
using fair skinned Japanese models with
This is reflected through the range of blonde hair and blue eyes, echoing and
beauty products available in Japan, promoting the stereotypical Western
most of which embody; skin-lightening, ideal woman, which are often shown in
and anti-aging. Kikuchi et al. states editorials and advertising campaigns.
that, “aging has a negative effect on
the skin that is important for aesthetic It is evident that even though the
evaluation of the face ... revealing that Japanese ‘ideal’ stems back to a
aging increases colour heterogenity”, historical, socio-cultural background,
meaning a wide range of beauty there is an influx of Westernised
products are available to counteract this consumer culture which influences
natural change, whilst also conforming the self-perceptions of many, in order
with the ‘ideal’ look of white, Western to achieve a desired look which is not
skin as popularised through advertising, natural for ones race nor ethnicity, even
magazines and consumer culture. though deemed the ‘ideal’. It can be
The range of beauty-led products in thought however, that on the flip side
Japan reinforces this through the use of how in Western society would one feel
copywriting and model selection. Anti- and react to being constantly bombared
aging products in Japan often include with images of Japanese women? How
collagen and placenta extracts, coming would this affect the perceptions of
in the form of creams, cosmetics, women? Maybe we will never know..

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For younger, more beautiful skin.
The new collagen infused drink from
the Shiseido Ginza lab.
GOLDEN
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NICOLE
TAKAHASHI
Japanese beauty blogger Nicole reveals
secrets and truths about the Eastern
beauty industry in this candid interview

Photography: Nicole Takahashi

Japanese beauty blogger Nicole With the industry taking a different
Takahashi writes two beauty blogs, route in Japan to the West, blogging is
‘The Beauty Maniac in Tokyo’ and ‘Beau a different ball game, and content seen
Tea Time’, runs the Instagram star (@ often reflects this culture and audience.
nicintokyo) and writes for Japanese
blogs and magazines, including GLAM If you have ever read any Japanese
and Look Fantastic Japan, however beauty blogs or glossy beauty-led
states that the differences between the magazines, it is evident that trends and
beauty industries in the East and West ideals are different, with older women
are still considerably different. taking precedent. Japanese women are
big on skincare, youthfulness and skin-
Takahashi reveals secrets of Japanese lightening, opposed to the glamourous
beauty compared to what we know in celebrity inspired looks of the West
Western culture, exploring an unknown which teenagers and adults don daily.
world to many, where bloggers don’t
recieve as much recognition as In this candid interview Takahashi talks
magazine writers and editors, “unless openly about the differences in the
you are ‘kawaii’. It’s known that Japan beauty industries, and gives examples
doesn’t hold ‘blogger events’ and if of the differences of beauty standards
you’re lucky enough to get invited to a and secret routines which dominate the
press event you may only see women Japanese beauty culture today, giving a
between the ages of 30 to 50 years old, taste of what she often blogs about and
instantly showing a vastly different relays to her International and Japanese
demographic and target audience. readership alike.

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NICOLEtakahashi

What does a typical skincare routine in but recently some brands started
Japan consist of? recommending using a cotton pad for an
even application, so the usage of cotton
Here are the differences I see between pads is increasing. I must also add that
Western and Japanese skincare: the quality of cotton pads is much
better in Japan—they are very soft, don’t
1. Cotton pads: Japanese people are fluff easily and there are different types
said to have thinner skin that is prone according to your liking.
to discolouration compared to Western
people. Rubbing your skin causes 3. Emulsion: I personally am not
unwanted pigmentation, which is why familiar with emulsion because I mainly
Japanese people are very careful not use Western skincare products, but
to rub their skin too much. When it emulsion (乳液 Nyuueki) is very popular
comes to cleansing, they prefer to use in Japan. Normally it’s looser and lighter
a cleanser that washes away waterproof than moisturiser, and contains more
eye makeup instantly rather than using moisture than creams.
an eye makeup remover with a cotton
pad. Micellar water isn’t as popular in
Japan as it is in the UK. Some people “IN JAPAN YOU WEAR
also pat-dry their skin with a towel, SUNBLOCK EVERYDAY,
rather than wiping their skin with it to WE DO NOT HAVE FAKE
avoid friction.
TAN. MAINTAINING
2. Lotion: One of my American friends PALE SKIN IS VERY
once told me, “When you say lotion in IMPORTANT FOR
the States, it means a thick moisturiser,
which is completely different from what JAPANESE PEOPLE”
you call lotion in Japan.”
What about the morning route? Is this
In Japan, lotion is a water-like liquid different, or the similar?
that balances your pH after washing
your face. When you use a cleanser or The must-have items in a Japanese
soap, your skin becomes alkaline. As woman’s beauty cabinet are makeup
your natural pH balance is mildly acidic, remover, cleanser, lotion, serum and
you must use lotion to bring it back to emulsion or moisturiser. In addition to
that healthy state. Also, Japanese lotion that, eye cream, oil and sheet masks are
usually contains quite a few different always commonly used.Unless we are
ingredients that are good for your skin talking specifically about a woman who
such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides is massively into beauty, women usually
and collagen. Lotion is usually applied don’t switch up their skincare routines
with hands rather than a cotton pad, that much.

00
Makeup remover: Oil and milk cleansers Contouring is big on social media in the
are popular. Just like cotton pads, UK and U.S. at the moment. What are
muslin cloths used to wipe the cleanser the big makeup trends in Japan right
off aren’t common in Japan. Most of the now?
Japanese oils, milks, creams and balm
cleansers can be washed off completely When it comes to skincare, I believe
with warm water. Japan is a step ahead compared to
Western countries, but makeup wise,
Cleanser/face wash: Japanese women not so much. We value the beautiful and
don’t care for cleansers much. healthy state of the skin, rather than
Drugstore ones sell well. piling up a lot of makeup on. Sheer and
natural foundation is more common
Lotion and emulsion: As mentioned than heavy coverage foundation.
earlier, lotion and emulsion are must- Recently, some magazines started talking
haves when it comes to Japanese about contouring, and some brands
skincare. Albion, SK-II and Ipsa are all like Cezanne brought out contouring
popular. products, but not many.

Serum: Women in Japan look to serums The trends I have seen recently are
that have anti-ageing, whitening and coloured eyebrows and coloured
brightening benefits. eyeliners. Though Japanese people are
usually very conservative, recent trends
Sun protection: In Japan, it’s common suggest more playful looks.
knowledge that you must wear a
sunblock every single day all-year round. What Japanese beauty products and
Tanning is not common at all (we do ingredients do you think would do well
not have fake tan in Japan). Maintaining in the UK?
pale skin is very important for Japanese
women, as you may know. Japanese consumers are very curious
about beauty products. They want to
How does it differ to say a Korean know what they are paying for, why
routine? Or the British routine of the product is effective, and how it
cleanse and moisturise? works. This means the brands usually
list the active ingredients, so Japanese
I’m not sure about Korean beauty women tend to have a good knowledge
regimens, because I personally am not of ingredients. They value how it feels
a big fan (Korean pharmaceutical affairs and how the skin reacts, rather than
law is not as strict as what it is in Japan, thinking in a very analytical way as
which means their products are more Japanese women do. Hyaluronic acid
effective and can be very harsh. I always has been well-known in Japan for more
break out when I use a Korean products). than 15 years (possibly 20 years), but it’s

00
NICOLEtakahashi

just became popular in the UK in the
past couple of years–I am not sure if it “JAPANESE WOMEN
was because there were not so many
products containing the ingredient or VALUE THE BEAUTIFUL
none of the brands marketed it. AND HEALTHY STATE
Ceramides should be more popular OF THE SKIN, RATHER
in the UK [note: Ceramides are lipid
molecules naturally occurring in the THAN PILING UP A
skin that help retain moisture and keep LOT OF MAKEUP ON.
the skin plump]. It is an incredibly well- IT’S KNNOWN THAT
known ingredient in Japan, and in some
sense it’s better than hyaluronic acid. SHEER AND NATURAL
FOUNDATION IS
We Brits look to women like Kate Moss MORE COMMON THAN
and Alexa Chung as modern beauty
icons, and then back to women like HEAVY COVERAGE
Brigitte Bardot and Twiggy. Who are the FOUNDATION ”
Japanese womens’ beauty icons?
not washing the hair every day is just
I much prefer Kate Moss to any disgusting! Forget about your hair for a
Japanese beauty icons, to be honest minute, we think of the scalp as being
(because Japanese women love a “cute” the same skin as the face, so we cannot
appearance rather than beautiful, or go to work or meet friends without
even sexy look). washing our hair. Regularly washed
hair doesn’t equate to damaged hair in
Are there any beauty lessons, tricks or Japan. Also, we use hairdryers all the
rituals British women could learn from time. I can’t leave my scalp damp, you
Japanese women? never know what bacteria is growing in
the damp environment! It causes odour
1. Do not rub your skin. It will cause and irritation.
pigmentation especially around the eyes!
My heart stops when I watch a YouTube 3. Wear SPF all-year round, even when
video and find a beauty blogger rubbing it’s cloudy. UVA passes through clouds
their eyes with a cotton pad or muslin and windows; you need SPF all the time
cloth SO HARD! if you want to maintain the beautiful and
healthy state of your skin!
2. Wash your hair every day. It might not
apply to the girls in the U.K. because of For more Japanese beauty insights head
the water (we have soft water, which to Nicole in Tokyo’s blogs: The Beauty
doesn’t dry out the skin and hair), Maniac in Tokyo (English) and Beau Tea
but for Japanese people, the idea of Time (Japanese).

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CHARLOTTE
STACEY
A Western perspective of beauty trends
and beauty culture in Japan

Article by/Model: Charlotte Stacey
MUA/Hair: Charlotte Stacey
Photography: Norijuki Edamatsu

Charlotte Stacey is a British beauty, So this week whilst scrolling through
trend and makeup obsessed dancer my emails I found out that I am officially
and performer living and working in a friend with benefit. Wait, wait… It’s
Japan. For her day job for the past 2 not how it sounds. I’m in the ‘Friends
years, Charlotte dresses up, and ‘acts’ with Benefit’ programme with Benefit
as Disney Princesses at Disney Tokyo, Cosmetics UK!
and has experienced an alternate,
magical and contrasting culture. I have always LOVED make up and beauty
Perspective is everything though as this products from such a young age, mainly
candid article reveals how a Westerner due to my dance background. I would
has grown to percieve Eastern beauty have dance competitions and shows
trends and culture first-hand. where I’d wear thick, dark foundation,

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CHARLOTTEstacey

blue eyeshadow and a red lip so that 1. Skin whitener: Whilst Brits are known
people in the auditorium could see my to catch the rays at ANY given chance
facial features in the bright stage lights. (remember that ‘Boots’ Summer Ad?!
Weeks before competitions were about I’ll link it below), the Japanese hide
to start, I’d be caught by my parents every inch of skin in the hot and humid
in my bedroom “practicing” my make Summers to protect the skin from the
up. (In other words, playing with make sun. Tanning? Yokunai desu!
up too young but could use that as an
excuse!). Even way before that though, 2. Eyelid tape and/or glue: pretty self
of course I have the obligatory ‘playing in explanatory! A thin bit of tape or a
mum’s make up’ photograph, at maybe smidge of glue to stick to the eyelids
1 or 2 years old, where it’s smeared all to give the illusion of a Western style
over my face. crease in the upper eyelid, without
the surgery; an operation known as
Fast forward and I am still wearing “stage blepharoplasty. There are also a type of
make up” everyday for my job! Now my glasses (if I can call them that?!) which
performances are up close and personal act as a type of eyelid trainer! Wear
as well as far away so every day has to it every night before bed and you’re
be a good make up day. The past few supposed to eventually have the ever so
years I have also modelled for a range of desirable big eyes!
different things so I’ve learnt a few tricks
from my MUA’s I’ve worked with too. 3. Eye bag make up: whilst Westerners
try and cover dark circles with a variety
Don’t get me wrong. If I can have a day of creams, gels and concealers, the
without make up, I’ll take it, and it always Japanese are contouring under their
feels great to wash it all off after a long eyes to make them darker and more
day. I don’t rely on make up to feel great. creased.
I don’t put my confidence down to the
amount of make up I wear. I, honestly, So the Easterners are trying to look
just love having it on!! more Western and the Westerners
are trying to look more Eastern. Look
The ‘ideal’ of beauty in England is very at the advertisement on ‘it’s potent!’
much different to the ‘ideal’ of beauty in Benefit’s dark circle eye cream, for
Japan. Not that I, personally, believe in example, there is a beautiful asian
an ‘ideal’ beauty, I hasten to add! What woman holding the product! And yet
I mean to say is: I have left a country the Japanese consider the gaijin face
selling fake tan and come to a place to have desirable features; the big eyes
selling skin whitener. Here are some and the high bridged nose. You can go
things I’ve found whilst living here in and do sticky pics, a very popular photo
Tokyo that you definitely wouldn’t find booth experience here, which thins your
on the shelves in Debenhams; nose and face and you can choose how

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“EASTERNERS TEND onsen) everywhere that are so widely
used.by the Japanese. Which is where
TO LOVE THE SHAPE I spend some of my afternoons and
OF A WESTERN FACE, evenings! There is a beautiful onsen,
A “SMALL FACE”. SOME called Urayasu Hot Spring Town I believe,
where I soaked my body in many hot
JAPANESE GIRLS WILL springs of various temperatures, a
OPENLY EXPRESS strawberry bath, a collagen bath, a
THEIR LIKINESS OF MY milk bath, cold baths, steam rooms,
saunas, you name it! There are baths
‘KAO CHICHAI’” inside as well outside and we were
lucky because it was cold and rainy last
enlarged your eyes want to be! Due to night. Laying in a steaming hot bath
their love of big, beautifully shaped eyes, with the cold rain falling on you is the
you can find the best false eyelashes and most wonderful and relaxing experience
liquid eyeliner and for the best price ever. Then I showered with the amazing
here too; 100 Yen store = KILLER falsies products they have there. My skin and
and the best liquid eyeliner I’ve ever hair feel fabulous. Silky, smooth. So not
tried! (¥100 is around 60p – you find me forgetting, of course, the great lotions
a shop in England that sells an amazing and treatments they have here in Japan!
range of decent eyelashes or easy to I’m not a fan of all treatments though..
use liquid eyeliner for 60p!!). Another
easy thing to buy here are coloured 5) Placenta face masks; I’m alright..
contact lenses… Put it this way, you
start to realise very early on that the I have generalised a lot here, and I know
Japanese love big, cartoon-like eyes! not everyone will have these aesthetic
Easterners tend to love the shape of a desires and therefore use all of these
Western face, a “small face”. I walk past weird and wonderful beauty products
Japanese girls who openly express their just because they are from a certain
fascination over my “kao chichai”. country. I’ve just been in Japan for
a long enough time to notice certain
4) Slim face products: masks, straps, patterns. It’s all perspective NOT racial
creams anything that attempts to stereotypes! Regardless of these so
basically shrink the face. Again, this is called ‘ideals’, I’m a big believer of loving
instead of girls having to opt for jaw yourself and being happy. If you want to
reduction surgery! change something about your body, then
do it. If you don’t, then don’t. We get so
I think Japanese features are wrapped up in opinions about the way
beautiful and their hair and skin we look – ‘you wear too much make up,’
are something else. It’s probably ‘you need to wear more,’ – when, really,
down to the beautiful hot springs (or you should just do you!

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vlogger, blogger;

INSTA
-GLAM ge t t h e l o o k
tte Stacey
with Charlo
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@cuppa_char

Get the
Insta-Glam look!
Products are listed in stage order of application to help recreate
this Instagram ready look.

01 - 02 Revlon Photoready Airbrush Effect Foundation
01 - 02 Ben Nye Foundation
01 - 02 Kroyolan TV Paint Stick
01 - 02 Kroyolan Concealer Stick
03 - 04 Anastasia Beverley Hills Powder Contour Palette
05 - 06 Urban Decay Blush in ‘Rapture’
07 - 08 Benefit Brow Zings in ‘Shade 2’
07 - 08 Unbranded Japanese Brow Gel
09 - 10 Kylie Cosmetics ‘The Burgundy’ Eyeshadow Palette
09 - 10 Tayila Eyelashes in ‘T3000’
09 - 10 Maybelline False Lash Mascara in ‘Black’ Anastasia
011 Beverley Hills Moonchild Glow Kit
012 Ben Nye Lip Liner in ‘Wine Berry’
012 Sephora Matte Liquid Lipstick in ‘Mauve’