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559

D E M O C R AT I C R E P U B L I C
Democratic Republic of Congo

OF CONGO
More a geographical concept than a fully fledged nation, the Democratic Republic of Congo
(DRC, formerly Zare) is a bubbling cauldron of untamed wilderness carpeted by swathes
of rainforest and punctuated by gushing rivers and smoking volcanoes. Rendered almost
ungovernable by the central administration in Kinshasa, the country remains closed to all
but the most brave-hearted travellers. The nations history reads like something out of Dan-
tes Inferno from the brazen political folly of King Leopold of Belgium to the hideously
corrupt kleptocracy of maverick megalomaniac Mobutu Sese Seko, and the blood-stained
battlegrounds of Africas first world war.

The DRC isnt all failed politics and wasted natural resources, however. Somewhere in
the midst of this proverbial heart of darkness lies a lumbering African giant. With ground-
breaking national elections in July 2006 giving voice to 60 million shell-shocked inhabitants,
a corner may have been turned. Despite early post-election violence in Kinshasa, incumbent
president Joseph Kabila took office in October 2006 under the watchful eye of the worlds
largest UN peacekeeping force. In some senses, the future can only get better. With five
Unesco biospheres, whole ecosystems of teeming wildlife and an estimated US$24 trillion
of untapped mineral capacity lying underneath the ground, it goes without saying that the
countrys potential is breathtaking.

FAST FACTS

 Area 2,345,410 sq km
 ATMs none
 Borders Congo is open as are borders
with Rwanda, Burundi and Uganda. The
Angolan border is also open. Tanzania,
Sudan and CAR are closed. Zambia is
normally open.
 Budget US$80 to US$100 a day
 Capital Kinshasa
 Languages French, Lingala, Kiswahili, Kikongo, Tshiluba
 Money Congolese franc; US$1 = CDF432
 Population 62.6 million
 Seasons North of equator: wet (April to October), dry (Decem-
berto February); south of equator: wet (Novemebr to March), dry
(April to Octover)
 Telephone Country code %243; international access code %00
 Time GMT/UTC + 1 (west); GMT/UTC + 2 (east)
 Visa US$75 for a single-entry, one-month visa; US$140 for a 60-day, multiple-entry tourist visa
560 D E M O C R AT I C R E P U B L I C O F C O N G O C l i m a t e & W h e n t o G o lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D E M O C R AT I C R E P U B L I C O F C O N G O H i s t o r y 561
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CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO plies of rubber from the forest. Those who Thereafter, things took a turn for the better.
Apart from high-altitude areas, most of the WARNING! did not return their quota had their hands The new Belgian administration built clinics,
country is hot and humid year-round, with The Democratic Republic of Congo is still chopped off. And all the while, in one of the schools and roads, and eradicated sleeping
daytime temperatures lingering around 30C. prone to sporadic civil unrest and safety in earliest examples of cynical political spin doc- sickness. By the 1940s the Congo was Afri-
Rainfall is scant near the coast, but increases many areas is not guaranteed. We were un- toring, Leopold passed off his Congo venture cas richest country, though the local people
significantly as you move inland. able to do on-the-ground research, so some as a shining example of fine governorship and still had few political rights and the Belgian
The best time to go depends largely upon information in this chapter may not be reli- benevolence, aimed at civilising the Negroes government proved consistently negligent in
which area of the country you will be visiting. able. Check the situation before travelling. and keeping the cruel Arab slave-traders preparing the Congolese for a smooth hando-
The dry season (and the best time to visit) in at bay. ver at independence.
the north is from December and February Gathering pace in the 1950s under charis-
while in the south it runs between April and him down. The two expat Britons met on 10 Independence matic revolutionary Patrice Lumumba, the in-
October November 10 1871 near modern-day Kigoma As Leopolds crimes gradually became public dependence movement finally wrested control
in Tanzania, but it was Stanleys subsequent knowledge, the Belgian government realised from the colonisers in 1960. As the Congolese
HISTORY African sojourns, under the sponsorship of enough was enough, and paid the unscru- struggled to form a coherent government, the
A Tragic Story the British Daily Telegraph newspaper to trace pulous king US$4 million in compensation Belgians who had left the country with only


Packed with possibilities, but blighted by over the course of the Congo River, that marked to annex the land mass now known as the 16 qualified university graduates quickly
100 years of war, despotism and horror, the his own place in history. Democratic Republic of Congo themselves. realised their mistake and, with covert US
country now known as the DRC has suffered Reported enthusiastically in The Times,
more than any other country on earth. The Stanleys Congolese exploits were quickly DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF CONGO 0 400 km
0 250 miles
first stories to emerge from the steaming river seized upon by the most unlikely of colonial
basin that straddles the equator in this mys- adventurers, King Leopold II of Belgium. CENTRAL Obo SUDAN
terious part of central Africa were brought Devious, greedy and wholly ignorant of Af- AFRICAN
Bangassou Juba
REPUBLIC r
Kongbo
home by Portuguese explorers in the 15th rican affairs, Leopold had been eyeing the BANGUI
Rive
Garamba
Yei
Zongo
century. Trading goods such as ivory, cloth, unclaimed African gteau for some time, but Gbadolite Mobayi-
Ndu
Bondo Niangara
National Park
Aba
Pakwach
Faradje
pottery and ironware, they made contact with he was having some trouble persuading the Libenge
Gemena Mbongo
Businga Aru
Arua
Isiro

gui
a highly developed kingdom known as the Belgian government to go along with him. CAMEROON
Bumba

ban
Buta Mahagi
Lisala
Kongo that was ruled over by a patriarchal To solve the problem the arrogant monarch Akula Opaki

Ou
Binga Wildlife Bunia
monarch and stretched as far south as the decided to acquire a colony in his own right. Reserve Mambasa


Ri
o Lulonga Lake
ng

ve
Co Albert

r
Kwanza River in Angola. The resulting European furore became known Basankusu Parc National

Rive
des Virunga
Kisangani
Little more was heard of the Kongo until as the Scramble for Africa. Djolu Beni

r
Boyoma Falls Kasindi
Mbandaka
the 1860s, when Dr David Livingstone began In 1878 Leopold summoned Stanley and CONGO Lake Edward UGANDA
Tsh Ubundu (Lake Rwitanzige)
Lubutu
opening up the African interior to European commissioned him to go back to the Congo Lac
Boende uap Kayna-Bayonga
Ishasha

Co
a
GABON Tumba Ikela Punia Rutshuru

ngo
exploration. After the learned Scot went under the smoke screen of the International Mount Nyiragongo
(3470m) Goma RWANDA

er

River
missing for more than five years in 1866, a African Society a supposed philanthropic or-

Riv
Riv
Parc National de Lake KIGALI
Lac

er
Mai-Ndombe Kahuzi-Biga Kivu
New York newspaper sent out a precocious ganisation. Over the ensuing five years Stanley Kalima Bukavu
Kindu
Welshman, Henry Morton Stanley, to track signed more than 400 treaties with Congo Bandundu Kampene Uvira BUJUMBURA
Kasa

go
chiefs on Leopolds behalf, tricking them to Pointe-Noire Kw i Ri

Con
ilu ver BURUNDI
BRAZZAVILLE
Ilebo
hand over their land rights in return for paltry Kasongo

Ri
KINSHASA
HOW MUCH?

ve
gifts. At the Berlin conference called by Bis- Kigoma

r
Kisanto Botanical Gardens
Idiofa
Chutes du Zongo
 Internet per hour US$2 to US$3 marck in 1884 to carve up Africa, Leopold Muanda
Mbanza-
Kikwit
Kananga Kalemie
Ngungu Kabalo
aware of a German desire to offset French and Boma Matadi
Mbuji-Mayi
TANZANIA
 Cup of coffee US$1.50

Inkisi
British colonial interests managed to con-

Congo R
Cabinda Tshikapa
(ANGOLA) Lake
 Car hire per day US$39 vince the famous Iron Chancellor to declare

River
Tanganyika

Sankuru
the Congo a free trade area and cede it to him

iv
 Bottle of wine US$15 to US$20

er
as his own personal fiefdom.
 Average main meal US$12 to US$15 Kamina Mpulungu
Leopold inherited a country 75 times the LUANDA ANGOLA

Riv
Lake
Bukama
size of Belgium, and philanthropy was the last Mweru

er
LONELY PLANET INDEX
thing on his mind as he set about fleecing the
 1L petrol US$0.75 Congo of its ivory, copper and in the wake ATLANTIC
Luau Dilolo Kolwezi
Likasi
of the invention of the pneumatic tyre rub- OCEAN Lubumbashi Lake
 1L bottled water US$1.50 Bangweulu
ber. Hideous crimes were committed against Kasumbalesa

 500ml bottle of Primus beer US$2 the Congolese by Leopolds rubber traders. Lobito Chingola
Kitwe Ndola
 Souvenir T-shirt US$10 to US$15 These included raiding villages and taking
women and children captive as an incentive ZAMBIA
 Breakfast US$5
for the men to bring back ever-greater sup-
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support, re-intervened in the Congo in order The DRCs second war started in 1998 and rivers such as the Congo, Kasai and Ouban- develop it. But Kinshasa could be worth a
to stem the mounting chaos, backing a plot culminated with the assassination of Laurent gui, which flow into the Atlantic Ocean. The brief if tentative visit by the brave and well-
by army chief Joseph Dsir Mobutu to oust Kabila in January 2001 by one of his own forests are home to all manner of primates, travelled explorer armed with a close eye on
(and assassinate) Lumumba, who was moving bodyguards. Succeeded by his son Joseph, including bonobo (or pygmy chimps hu- security and a true sense of African adventure.
suspiciously towards the Soviet Union. Kabila the younger couldnt have been more mans closest relatives). The country includes Think less of historic monuments and broad
Renaming himself Mobutu Sese Seko, and different than his incompetent father. English- the greater part of the Congo River basin, tree-lined avenues and more of traditional
the country Zare, the new leader embarked speaking, Western-educated and only 29 years which covers almost one million sq km. To handicrafts, bustling markets and a vibrant
on a campaign of Africanisation, with people old when he took power, Kabila II quickly set the east, the DRCs borders run the length of nightlife that pulsates to the unique rhythms
dropping their Christian names, and suits giv- about presiding over a peace treaty between the Rift Valley, opening up to the spectacular of soukous.
ing way to the abacost (a Congolese version the warring African factions that in 2002 lakes of Albert (Mobutu), Edward (Rwitan-
of the Mao jacket); though Mobutu himself paved the way for an all-party transitional zige), Kivu, Tanganyika and Mweru, while ORIENTATION
was far from being a communist, allying the government. Notwithstanding, the challenges mountains such as the Ruwensori range on Ndjili international airport is 25km south-
country firmly in the US camp. facing the country are still huge. By 2003 the the countrys eastern border approach the east of the city. Minibuses run to the city
Proving himself to be even more incompe- war had claimed more than 3.8 million lives 5000m mark. The DRC is also home to vol- centre, but they are overcrowded, badly
tent than Leopold, Mobutu duly turned cor- and displaced another 3.4 million people, but canoes; Mt Nyiragongo near Goma caused maintained and downright unsafe on the
ruption and the squandering of state resources with the establishment of the DRCs second devastation when it erupted in 2002, covering lawless, potholed roads. Opt instead for
into an art form. Toting up more than US$2 ever multiparty elections in July 2006 many much of the town in molten rock. There are an unmarked taxi (US$10) or arrange for
billion in US loans over a 30-year period and hoped that a corner had been turned. vast, beautiful nature reserves in the DRC, al- someone to pick you up. The city centre
printing money as if it was going out of fash- though most of them (including Kahuzi-Biga branches off from the banks of the Congo
ion, he became legendary for his Marquis de DRC Today and Virunga) are in the east, still patrolled by River, looking directly across at Brazzaville
Sadestyle extravagance, stuffing more than Or had it? The 2006 elections caused a stale- warring militias. on the other side. The diplomatic district of
US$5 billion into Swiss bank accounts and mate between incumbent Joseph Kabila and Gomb lines the riverbank with great views
hiring Concorde to take him on shopping
trips to the Champs Elyses. Indeed, so rife
was his administration with conniving and
opposition leader Jean-Pierre Bemba, with
sporadic violence breaking out, particularly
in Kinshasa. Kabila won the second round of
KINSHASA of floating water hyacinths and the skyline
of Brazzaville.

nepotism that writer Michela Wrong invented the election in October 2006 with a landslide pop 6.7 million INFORMATION
a new word to describe his spectacular style of in the Swahili-speaking east. Meanwhile, co- Once touted as Kin la belle (beautiful Kin- Cash is king in Kinshasa, with travellers
state mismanagement: kleptocracy cooned in-country, 17,000 UN soldiers (the shasa), the 21st-century incarnation of the cheques and credit cards virtually useless.
worlds largest peacekeeping force) continue chaotic capital of the DRC is regrettably US dollars are invariably preferred over Con-
Civil War to oversee a shaky and volatile security situ- anything but. Huge, sprawling, grimy and golese francs, but theyll only be accepted if
With a sea of political change rippling across ation. For experienced Africa-watchers, the confusing, the city which, with over six theyre in good (or even mint) condition.
the world in the early 1990s, Mobutu finally DRCs future looks as uncertain as ever. million inhabitants, is Africas third larg- You can change money at one of Kinshasas
got his comeuppance. Backing the Hutu per- est (after Lagos and Cairo) is a long way banks or with black marketeers along the
petuators of the 1994 Rwandan genocide, he PEOPLE from being a travellers haven, though with waterfront.
enraged Zaran Tutsis, who, supported enthu- As complex racially as it is politically, the DRC multiparty elections ushering in a new era of Public phones consist of street hawkers
siastically by Rwandan and Ugandan troops, plays host to more than 250 individual ethnic hope and reintegration this situation could who will let you use their mobile phones for
marched on Kinshasa in May 1996. Mobutu groups and more than 700 different languages soon change. a fee. Best stick to the top-end hotels where
narrowly escaped capture by hitching a lift on and dialects. Not surprisingly it is the Kongo Built up on the banks of the Congo River international calls are easy to arrange.
a cargo plane to Togo and died four months tribe that dominates, closely followed by the and infested with shabby shantytowns and Centre Priv dUrgences (%20 875; Ave du Com-
later of cancer in Morocco. Luba and Mongo groupings that collectively myriad opportunist con merchants masquer- merce) The best equipped of the emergency health centres
The new leader, Laurent Kabila a one- make up more than 40% of the population. ading as street salesmen, this polluted mega- in Kinshasa.
time confidante of Che Guevara dashed Despite widespread animist beliefs ap- lopolis couldnt be called pretty by anyone. Cybergd (%9903313; Ave Mobutu 18b, Masina; per hr US$3)
any hopes early on by outlawing political proximately 80% of the population are either That said, there are a number of surprisingly Internet access.
opposition and renaming the country (with Protestants or Roman Catholics. A popular deserted areas where exhausted visitors can Cyberlogic (%12 205 20; A11 Av Presse, Immeuble Moanda;
no apparent irony) the Democratic Republic minority sect is manifested in Kimbanguism, escape from the traditional mayhem, such per hr US$3) Internet access.
of Congo. Proving himself every bit as cor- a Christian cult that developed around the as the once-grand (and now run-down) co- ICARE (%8807608; Rwindi Bldg, Blvd 30 Juin) This
rupt as Mobutu, Kabila took the madness a mysterious figure of Simon Kimbangu in lonial neighbourhood, or the city centre on travel agency has extremely helpful staff.
stage further by plunging the country into the 1920s and 30s. Kimbanguism remains a Sunday. Maison de France (Hal de la Gomb) There are several
civil war, setting his government against the Africas most popular form of indigenous Kinshasas general decrepitude and abun- 24-hour pharmacies; this is the most central.
very Tutsis he had once claimed to represent. Christianity. dance of buildings in eternal stages of half- Ministry of Tourism (Ave Batetela, Gomb)
The conflict broadened when Rwanda and completion are as much to do with incapable
Uganda entered on the side of the Tutsi rebels ENVIRONMENT government as they are to do with the ravages SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
and Kabila was only saved when Angola and The DRC is the third-largest country in Af- of war the DRCs various administrations If you are prepared to withstand lots of hassle
Zimbabwe waded in with military support for rica, much of which is covered by impen- have generally been too preoccupied in try- and calls of mondele (white person), head
the Congolese government. etrable rainforest, and crisscrossed by huge ing to keep control of the country to actually to the Central Market of Matong for lots of local
564 A R O U N D K I N S HA S A Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D D R C G o m a 565
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AROUND DRC
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colour. Alternatively, the tourist market at GETTING THERE & AWAY DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
March de Valeur (Pl de la Gare, Blvd 30 Juin) is great There are flights to Kinshasa direct from Avoid taking photos in public, especially of
for everything from Congolese fabrics and France (Paris) and a huge array of African the river, government buildings and the air-
masks to drums. Pay a third of the asking cities (see p566), and you can cross by ferry GOMA port, which are viewed as places of national
price tops, and keep an eye on your cash; its between Kinshasa and Brazzaville (Congo), A one-time stopover for overlanders to and security. Taking unsanctioned photos can lead
locally known as March du Voleur (Thiefs across the Congo River (see p558). Travel- from Rwanda, Goma is now a base camp for to arrest.
Market). Academy des Beaux-Arts (Blvd 24 Novembre, ling overland, particularly from Uganda or UN aid agencies trying to deal with the dual Do not walk around at night and think
Gomb) has beautiful gardens to stroll around Rwanda, is volatile. Check with your embassy catastrophes of the 2002 Mt Nyiragongo vol- twice about walking around in the daytime
and souvenirs of genuinely fine craftsmanship first. canic eruption and the ongoing Rwandan unless you are sure of the route. Take the
to buy in a more relaxed setting. refugee crisis. The one reason to visit Goma advice of the locals in matters of personal
Also worth seeing is the tomb of former GETTING AROUND these days (and you would be wise to check security wherever possible. If you are involved
president Laurent Kabila, the statue of na- There are no official taxis in Kinshasa, but up-to-date travel warnings first) is as a transit in a car accident do not hang around as mobs
tional icon Patrice Lumumba, and the Gare you can hire unmarked taxis, known as taxi town on the way to Parc National Des Virun- can gather quickly. Always carry a copy of
Central. express, which tout for business outside the gas, home of the famous mountain gorillas your passport.
Gallerie Presidentielle (Blvd 30 Juin, Gomb). They and the worlds second-oldest national park Malaria remains rife throughout DRC.
SLEEPING cost from US$30 per day with driver. Alter- (after Yellowstone). Check with your GP before leaving home
Kinshasa is expensive, and real budget accom- natively, at much higher rates (from US$75 and take all the necessary precautions (see
modation is hard to come by, though there are per day), you can hire cars from Avis (%81-81 KISANGANI p1134 for further information).
a few central and secure options. 0111; Ave Batetela, Gomb; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon A major city on the middle reaches of the
Hotel Estoril (%8989 12210; Av Kabasele No 85; r Sat) at the Intercontinental Hotel. Congo River, Kisangani was known in co- EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
US$50; a) A cheap central option. Breakfast lonial times as Stanleyville and was immor- DRC Embassies & Consulates
here is an extra US$5.
Hotel Pyramide (%81-508 95 56; Av Nguma No 35;
r US$125; pais) This is a small luxury
AROUND KINSHASA talised as the unnamed city in VS Naipuls
classic novel A Bend in the River. Once a fairly
pleasant place and a major hub for travellers,
Many of the countrys embassies were closed
down during 2003, but are likely to reopen.
DRC has diplomatic representation in the
hotel located about 5km from the centre of A must-see while in Kinshasa is the Chutes the decaying Belgian colonial buildings have following countries:
Kinshasa. All rooms here have bathrooms de Lukia, 40 minutes by car or taxi from the seen far better days. Attractions in the area Angola (%222-310293; Rua Fernando Pessoa, Vila Alice,
with a Jacuzzi and hot water. There is a swim- centre of town, along the Matadi road. There include Boyoma Falls (the worlds highest Luanda)
ming pool, internet facility and a restaurant is a decent restaurant, natural lakes to swim in volume waterfall), and the Okapi Wildlife Belgium (%02 21 349 80; Rue Marie de Bourgogne 30
selling main meals from between US$7 and and a bonobo orphanage, where you can play Reserve, a Unesco World Heritage Site. 1040 Etterbeek, Brussels)
US$10. with the younger chimps. Beware if you are Congo (%81 3052; Ave de lIndpendance, Brazzaville)
Hotel Memling (%81-700 63 64, 81-700 11 11; Av De allergic to white 4WDs and walkie-talkies LUBUMBASHI France (%01 42 42 25 57 50; 32 Cours Albert 1er,
la Republique du Tchad No 5; r US$130; pa) Kinsha- its a favourite haunt of resident UN and aid In the heart of the copper belt, and largely de- 75008, Paris)
sas flagship hotel was once owned by former worker staff at weekends. tached from the rest of the DRC, Lubumbashi UK (%020-7278 9825; 281 Grays Inn Rd, London, WC1
Belgian national airline company Sabena, and The fish market at Kinkole, 32km out of Kin- is a compact city of one million inhabitants X8QF)
though some of the fittings are showing signs shasa along the road to the airport, is worth a that boasts pleasant gardens, well-kept homes USA (%202-234 7690/1; 1726 M St, Suite 601, NW
of age, the setting is generally safe, and the visit. The market was constructed by Mobutu and a reasonable network of dirt roads. The Washington, DC 20036)
surroundings relatively salubrious. There are to honour the countrys fishermen as part of local mines are worth a fleeting visit.
also good reports on the food. his authenticity campaign. You can hire a

DRC DIRECTORY
pirogue for US$10 an hour and be paddled PRACTICALITIES
EATING down the Congo River, drink intoxicating  The Democratic Republic of Congos
Streetside vendors selling barbecued goat and palm wine on the riverbank and try some newspapers are the dailies Debout
manioc abound in Kinshasa and are your best of the countrys best liboke (fish stewed in Congolais and La Reference.
bet for cheap eating. manioc leaves). ACCOMMODATION
 Radio Okapi is the national station. The
La Chaumiere (%99 99 33 721; Av Ngongo Lutete; The botanical gardens of Kisanto are a 50km For the time being cheap accommodation
main TV channel is Radio-Television
mains US$20; h8:30am-11pm) This place serves drive south of Kinshasa along the Matadi road, in the DRC is limited. If you are new to the
Nationale Congolaise (RTNC) state-
Western and Congolese dishes. or you can take the train. With a collection of country and are not travelling with a group
controlled terrestrial and satellite TV.
Pili Burger (%982 802 70; Blvd du 30 Juin No 120a) This 100-year-old trees from all over the world, or official organisation, it is probably better
place offers 10 different varieties of burger/ and gentle rivers in which to swim, Kisanto and safer to start off staying in one of the  Electricity is 220V 50Hz. There are two
sandwich. is definitely worth a visit. handful of international hotels (where you can plug shapes: a European plug with
For an overnight stay, press on another pre-book a room) and take it from there. two circular metal pins; and a South
ENTERTAINMENT two hours to the Chutes du Zongo, a nature re- African/Indian-style plug with two
Dancing and drinking beer pretty well cover serve with waterfalls for swimming, and basic BUSINESS HOURS circular metal pins above a large circular
the entertainment options in Kinshasa, al- chalets with attached bucket-and-drain bath- Businesses are usually open 8.30am to 3pm grounding pin.
though jazz and rumba can be found at some rooms. Take your own food to barbecue. Book Monday to Friday and 8.30am to noon on  The DRC uses the metric system.
venues. via the Ministry of Tourism (Ave Batetela, Gomb). Saturday.
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Embassies & Consulates in DRC TOURS (Burundi), Douala (Cameroon), Lagos (Ni- GETTING AROUND
The following countries have diplomatic rep- Go Congo (%98 36 82 00; www.gocongo.com) is second geria), Luanda (Angola), Libreville (Gabon) With only 480km of paved roads, flying is
resentation in Kinshasa. to none when it comes to arranging trips in- and Nairobi (Kenya). Although planes now the best (and often the only) way of getting
Belgium (%89 24 233; Pl du 27 Octobre) country. The Kinshasa-based operation offers fly from Kinshasa to the east of DRC, the east around the DRC, although the poor safety
Canada (%895 0310; Ave Pumbu 17, Gomb) a selection of tailored trips as well as services is more easily accessed via Kigali in Rwanda. record of Congolese air traffic has led all but
Central African Republic (%33 571; Ave Pumbu 11, for individual travellers such as hotel reserva- Most airlines have offices at Kinshasas one (Bravo Air Congo) of its airlines to be
Gomb) tions, transfers and guides. Another option is Ndjili Airport. Carriers include Kenya Airways banned from operating in Europe. Domestic
Congo (%34 028; Blvd du 30 Juin 179, Brazzaville) the British-based Undiscovered Destinations (%in (%1221465; Hotel Memling, Ave Tchad, Gomb) and SN airlines include Hewa Bora Airways, Congo
France (%81 700 7213; Ave Rpublic du Tchad 97) the UK 191 2064038; www.undiscovered-destinations.com). Brussels Airlines (%081-897 5003; Blvd 30 Juin, Gomb). Airlines and Lignes Aeriennes Congolaises,
Germany (%894 8201; Ave de Roi Baudouin 82) In Gomb, Kinshasa, you can contact Air France all with offices at the airport or you can book
Kenya (%37 23 641; Ave de Louganda 4002) VISAS (%081-884 5548; Hotel Memling, Ave Tchad, Gomb; through travel agents.
UK (%98 169 100; Ave de Roi Baudouin 83, Gomb) All visitors need a visa. If flying into Kinshasa h8am-3.30pm Mon-Sat) and South African Airways Train travel is possible from Kinshasa to
USA (%81 225 5872; 310 Ave des Aviateurs) it is essential to get a visa beforehand. These (%081-700 5908; 6147, Blvd 30 Juin, Gomb). Matadi, Lumbumbashi to Ilebo and Kalemie
Zambia (%21 802; Ave de LEcole 54) cost approximately US$75 for a one-month, A regular ferry links Kinshasa with Braz- via Kabalo. There is an isolated branch of the
single-entry visa, or US$135 for a 60-day, zaville in Congo. It costs US$25 (see page Great Lakes railway line that runs between
HOLIDAYS multiple-entry tourist visa. If crossing by p558). Kisangani and Ubundu in order to bypass the
Public Holidays are as follows: land you can often get a visa at the border Technically, you can catch a train from Boyoma (Stanley) Falls on the Congo River,
New Years Day 1 January within 24 hours. Lubumbashi to Johannesburg or Dar es Sa- but trains here are sporadic and there are no
Martyrs of Independence Day 4 January laam but, due to railway underinvestment, connections through to Kindu.
National Heroes Day 17 January Visas for Onward Travel schedules arent reliable. Entry by plane is If you have enough time and arent fussy
Easter Monday March/April (dates vary) If at all possible, procure your onward travel invariably a better bet. about privacy there are possibilities to travel
Labour Day 1 May African visas from your home country before The land border with Angola is open via the by barge along the Congo River from Kin-
National Liberation Day 17 May departure. This is especially true for Angolan town of Matadi but crossing here is rarely at- shasa to Kisangani. This is the real highway
Independence Day 30 June visas which require a letter of introduction tempted by foreigners and you could be faced of Central Africa and a wonderful way to see
All Saints Day 1 November from a person in-country first. The easiest visa with reams of bureaucracy and a whole lot of the country. However, there is no fixed time-
Army Day 17 November to get in the DRC is for Congo (Brazzaville) a hassle (make sure you have pre-arranged your table for the departure of barges and they
New Regime Anniversary 24 November short hop across the Congo River. Angolan visa). Unless youre a truly intrepid often break down or get stuck on sandbanks
Christmas Day 25 December overlander avoid at all costs. along the way.
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
MONEY Exercise extreme caution if you are a female
The local currency is the Congolese franc traveller. Do not drive alone after dark; instead
(CDF); it cannot be converted and cannot drive in a convoy, if you can. Be very wary of
be taken out of the country. With individual the armed forces: rape has been used exten-
note denominations nearly worthless it is sively as a weapon of war.
often easier to use US dollars, though you
should be careful not to use old dollar bills
or small denominations (anything below a
US$20 note).
TRANSPORT IN DRC
Travellers cheques and credit cards are GETTING THERE & AWAY
rarely accepted here; credit cards are only Air France is the only airline with direct flights
accepted in one or two upmarket hotels in into Kinshasa (it flies from Paris to Kinshasa
Kinshasa. Your best bet is to travel with a once or twice a week). KLM flies from Am-
carefully concealed money belt containing sterdam to Kinshasa via Nairobi once or twice
US dollars. a week, and SN Brussels Airlines flies from
You can change money around the port, Brussels to Kinshasa, usually via Douala, three
but its better to find a reliable contact (ask times a week. Bravo Air Congo flies out of
around where you are staying). Kinshasa three times a week to Brussels and
Paris, with one of the weekly Paris flights con-
POST & TELEPHONE necting to Madrid.
The postal system ranges from unreliable to From within Africa, South African Airways Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
nonexistent. flies between Kinshasa and Johannesburg restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
Make calls from internet centres or hotels. about three times a week, and Ethiopian Air- only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
This is expensive, but land lines are rare. For lines flies between Kinshasa and Addis Ababa
local calls you might be able to borrow some- around three times a week; you can also fly everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
ones mobile. in from Abidjan (Cte dIvoire), Bujumbura the above - Do the right thing with our content.

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