Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.

HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

I. Mc lc
I. Mc lc..........................................................................................................1
II. Li m u....................................................................................................2
III. Du gi u.................................................................................................3
1. Lch s hnh thnh du gi u.................................................................3
2. Tc v cc vn ca chng....................................................................3
3. Nhng vn gp phi.............................................................................4
4. Cc thnh phn v chc nng ca du gi u.........................................6
5. Mt s cht hot ng b mt chnh.........................................................9
a. Cht iu ha...................................................................................10
b. Cht chng gu.................................................................................11
c. Cht lm c v ng nh x c........................................................13
d. Cht lm st/iu chnh nhn......................................................13
e. Cht n nh bt...............................................................................14
f. Cc cht vitamin...............................................................................14
g. Cht bo qun/cht chng oxi ha...................................................14
h. Cc cht mu v hng liu.............................................................15
i. Cc cht gy hi...............................................................................16
6. V d cc n.........................................................................................17
7. Du x....................................................................................................23
a. Nguyn tc lp n...........................................................................23
b. Cc cng thc mu...........................................................................24
IV. Kem nh rng............................................................................................26
1. Lch s hnh thnh..................................................................................26
2. Khi nim i cng v cu trc ming ................................................27
3. Nhng vn chnh ca rng.................................................................27
4. Cc thnh phn chnh v chc nng ca chng......................................29
a. Nc.................................................................................................29
b. Cc cht ty ra...............................................................................30
c. Cc cht mi mn.............................................................................30
d. Cc cht lm st...............................................................................31
e. Cc tc nhn lm du........................................................................32
f. Cc cht lm c .............................................................................32
g. Cc loi mu....................................................................................32
h. Cc cht n nh v iu chnh pH..................................................32
i. Cc hng v....................................................................................33
j. Cht bo qun..................................................................................34
5. Cc cng thc mu.................................................................................38
V. Kt lun........................................................................................................41

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 1 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

VI.Li ni u
Mt thng tc b ui g
Hai thng n ni mn m c duyn
Ba thng m lm ng tin
Bn thng rng nhnh ht huyn km thua.
Trong s mi ci d thng ca cc b, cc c, mi tc c xp hng u, hm
rng en chim hng t. iu ni ln rng x hi Vit Nam ngy xa rt
trng tc v rng, k c tc v rng ca cc ng. Lch s mi tc, hm rng ca dn
ta cng tri qua nhiu cuc thng trm, i thay nh vn nc. Nhng cc sch
ch ghi chp mt cch tng qut. i khi chng ta c bit:
V thi Hng Vng, ai cng xm mnh. Ai cng bi t hoc ct tc ngn (nhng
cng c ngi b xo tc hoc tt ui xam). Ai cng thch eo hoa tai v nhiu
vng tay. Ngi ta nhum rng, n tru.
(U ban Khoa Hc Vit Nam, Lch s Vit Nam, tp 1, Khoa Hc X Hi, 1971, tr. 48).
S d ni rng n gn cui i nh L l bi v nm 1789, trc lc xut qun
dp gic Thanh, Nguyn Hu tuyn b:
nh cho di tc
nh cho en rng
nh cho n chch lun bt phn
nh cho n phin gip bt hon
nh cho s tri Nam quc anh hng chi hu ch
(Lch s Vit Nam, sd, tr. 353).
V nh quan nim v Ci rng ci tc l vc con ngi, chc hn chng ta
ngy cng phi quan tm nhiu n hm rng, mi tc hn. Chnh v l , vic
chm sc hm rng, mi tc l nhu cu ca mi ngi mi nh. Tuy nhin, khng
phi ai cng chm sc ng hay hiu bit cc sn phm chm sc l: Kem nh
rng & du gi u v thnh phn cng nhu cc thnh phn nn trnh trong m
phm trn.
T nhng l do trn, nhm 1 tm hiu v trnh by nhng g mnh bit v
nhng vn trn. Trong qu trnh thc hin v trnh by khng trnh khi nhng
sai st, rt mong s thng cm ca c v cc bn, nhm 1 xin chn thnh cm n!

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 2 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

VII. Du gi du
1. Lch s hnh thnh du gi u
Du gi u t trong ting Anh c ngun gc t Ting Hin-ddi chmpo. Dean
Mahomed gii thiu cc thc hnh phng tm hi Basil Cochrane trong khi lm
vic ti London vo u th k 19. Khi , x phng thng thng c s
dng trong vic gi u. Tuy nhin, x phng lm cho tc b kh v d rng.
Trong giai on u ca du gi u, x phng to mu tc Anh co un si
trong nc v b sung cc loi tho mc cung cp cho tc v hng thm.
Kasey Hebert l ngi u tin c bit n nh sn xut du gi u.
Ban u, x phng v du gi u l sn phm rt ging nhau, c hai c cha t
nhin c ngun gc t cng mt cht hot ng b mt (mt loi cht ty ra). Du
gi u hin i nh ngy nay c bit n ln u tin c gii thiu trong
nhng nm 1930 bi Drene, du gi u tin c cht hot ng b mt tng hp.
Di y l bng s liu th hin mc s dng du gi u trn th gii t 1991
n 1996:

Trc khi i vo chi tit ca chnh cc sn phm, iu cn thit l chng ta phi

nhc li cch vn tt mt vi tn cht chung v tc v cc vn do vic chm sc
tc t ra.
2. Tc v cc vn ca chng
Mc ch ca du gi u l lm sch ra. Tc mc t mt lm di da u gi l
nang tc.
Tc gm hai phn:
Nang tc (di dng c hnh), phn di loe ra, bao bc chn tc vi rt nhiu
huyt qun.

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 3 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Thn tc bao gm ba lp ng tm, t trung tm ra vng ngoi , ngi ta phn

bit:
Ty
Cortex hay v l thnh phn chnh ca tc
Biu b ngoi, hp thnh bi keratin. Cht ny l mt scleroprotein cu thnh bi
mt s ln cc amin axit, m cht ch yu l cystin. Nhng t bo thuc mt phn
ba bn di ca nang tc sn sinh ra keratin.
Ba lp ny c bao quanh bi hai lp bao v mt cht khng nh hnh, mt
mng nh thy tinh.
Mi si tc u tri qua ba giai on:
Giai on anagen l mt thi k bin tng trng m thi gian trung bnh l 3
nm.
Giai on catagen l mt thi k chuyn tip ko di khong 3 tun. Trong giai
on ny nang khng hot ng.
Giai on telogen l mt giai on ngng ngh. Tc cht rng xung, b y ra
bi mt si tc nh mi, giai on anagen, thay th v tr ca n.
Si tc mc chng 0,35 mm mi ngy. N mc vo ma h nhanh hn ma
ng, ban m hn ban ngy v tc n gii mc nhan hn nam gii.
Mi c nhn c khong 100000 n 150000 si tc. 85% tc u thuc giai on
anagen ngi tr, trong khi s tc thuc giai on telogen gia tng theo tui tc.
Mi ngy tc rng t 50 n 100 si thuc giai on telogen c xem l bnh
thng.
Ton b b mt ca tc ph n, t 4 n 8 m 2. Nh th, chnh b mt ny cn
phi gi sch, trong khi vn n si tc c th c mt xp t nhiu quan
trng ty theo tc phi ra nng, thi tit hay do vi tc nhn ha hc.
3. Nhng vn m tc gp phi
Nu ngi ta quan st mt si tc di, sut chiu di ca tc c th phn bit
c 4 loi trng thi:
Gn chn tc, tc cn mi, vy trong iu kin tt , cc biu b u n v bao
ph hon ton lp v cortex.
Cch chn tc 5cm, tc gi hn, chu nhng s tn cng v mt c hc
(lc, bn chi, lau kh bng khn tm), cc cnh biu b b h hi v gy.

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 4 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

V pha ui ca si tc, a s biu b khng cn na (v nhng s tn cng v

mt c hc v ha hc, cc v.v), v cortex by gi b phi ra.
on cui ca si tc b ch ra thnh nhiu phn nh: ton b biu b b mt i,
v cortex hon ton b phi trn, do d b gy.
Cc gii thch v tnh d gy ca si tc phi c b sung bi hai im then
cht khc dng nhp cuc: l cc vt bn v gu.
Cc cht bn ca tc
Cc cht bn ca tc a dng v c nhiu ngun gc khc nhau. Cht nhn v
cc cht du to nn phn ch yu. S hnh 9.8 lm ni bt s hin din ca
tuyn cht nhn v trong nang. S tit ra cht nhn ny thay i theo tui: yu
trong thi gian tui th, tng tui thiu nin, v t mc ti a vo tui trng
thnh. Sau , s tit cht nhn ny li gim theo nm thng.
Ngi ta cng tm thy cc mnh keratin xut pht t ng vy da u, cc
cht protein, cc cht thnh phn hu c hay khong cht trong m hi, cc lp bi
bm xung do khng kh xung quanh, nhng sn phm dng chi tc hay chm
sc tc cn lu li (cc gel, cht xt tc, kem lm bng tc,). V chnh cht
nhn gi li cc lp bi bn v cc mnh vn t bt c ngun gc no. N to
nn yu t quyt nh tin trnh gi ra.
Cc lipid ca tc to nn mt hn hp rt phc tp bin i theo tui, gii
tnh, cch n ung v cc ma. Cc lipid ny c th chu nhng s bin i v mt
ha hc nh thy phn v oxyt ha. Nhng bin i ny c th thay i nhng c
tnh vt l ca chng, chng hn c v tnh phn cc ca chng. Chng l
nhng yu t quan trng gip chng cn tr vic gi ra.
Lu : chng da nhn (c cc chuyn vin khoa da s dng) ch r s tit
qu nhiu ca cc tuyn cht nhn. Chng ny da u v t nhiu c trch nhim
i vi tc nhn. Hu qu thm m tht ng tic:
Tc nhum du rt nhanh chng
Tc nhiu du rt chng bn v bi bn kt t
Cc kiu lm tc khng c bn lu
Hin tng peroxit ha cht nhn lm pht sinh cc mi kh chu
Gu
Cc t bo b mt ca lp sng b hy hoi v lm pht sinh nhiu mnh
keratin nh hay cc vy da li ti l iu bnh thng. Nhng nu chng si da tr nn

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 5 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

bt bnh thng, biu b s to nn gu tht s. l cc loi vy mu xm hay nu

nht tn mt trong b tc v ri xung cc c o. Cc gu ny c th gi sch cch
n gin gin nhng chng ti din mt cch mau l. Ngi ta gi chng l gu
kh.
Gu lin quan n tui tc: chng xut hin la tui dy th, gia tng cho n
20-25 tui, ri gim xung. Chng quan trng vo ma ng hn ma h v t 10-
15% dn s (nam v n) u gp vn ny.
Cc nguyn nhn gy nn gu cha c lm sng t hon ton. Ngy nay
ngi ta a ra hai gi thuyt:
S mng manh ca lp sng gy ra chng si da khng bnh thng. Ni cch
khc, lp b mt ca da c thay mi qu nhanh lm mt nhiu t bo hn: ci g
xy ra l gu.
S tng nhanh khng bnh thng ca cc vi khun hay nm: da du thu nhn
rt nhiu vi khun t ngoi mi trng xung quanh. Cc vi khun thuc ba nhm:
cc vi khun a kh, cc vi khun k kh, v nht l nm men. Da du, dy c cc
tuyn tit nhiu cht nhn, to nn mt mi trng l tng cc vi sinh vt tng
trng. Nhng cc iu kin c bit ny dng nh ch thch hp cho povale, bi
v loi men nm ny chim 75% v thc vt nhng ngi nhiu gu so vi 45%
trn da u bnh thng.
4. Cc cht thnh phn v chc nng ca du gi u:
Vai tr chnh ca du gi u l gi sch tc, ngha l ty ht cc bi bn do bi
bm, du v cc t bo cht m chng ta ni n trn y. Hn na, du gi
u phi hi mt s cc thuc tnh c th cnh tranh c bit:
D dng ha tan bt chp cng hay mm v khng hnh thnh cc cht kt
ta.
Gi sch hu hiu (d bt c cng no) m khng lm bt cht du (nh th
cht hot ng b mt phi c mt hiu qu to nh tng v hiu qu tm t tt).
cho tc mm mi, mt m d dng chi chut, t tnh in hn.
To bt ngay v nhiu khi bi du, ( l yu cu ca ngi tiu dng!). Tri
li, bt ny phi tiu tan nhanh chng khi x v khng lm cay mt (cho d giy lt)
khi mt chm phi.
To mt hiu nng ti a vi cc ph trung tnh hay kim nh.
C hng thm du.

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 6 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Khng n da tay ngi tiu dng.

Khng lm nga ngy da u.
Trng p mt (mu, ng nh v nhn tt).
Gi c phi chng.
Trong vi trng hp c bit, du gi u cn phi gii quyt vi vn c
nu trn y (du gi u dng cha bnh: chng gu).
Nhm p ng cc yu cu khn thit khc nhau ny, ngi ta phi chn la gt
gao cc nguyn liu c s dng, m chng ta s trin khai trong cc trang sau
y:
Cc cht hot ng b mt u im
Cc cht anionic Khng t lm, t nguy him i vi mt
Cc loi x bng: Khng ly i qu nhiu cht du m.
V c (Na, K)
tc mm mi v d dng chi chut (trong nc
Hu c (alkanolamin)
mm: ty git tt v to bt tt).
Khuyt im
kim ca cc dung dch (vn v da).
Cm ng vi canxi
Tnh gi sch v bt gim trong nc cng.
Kt t loi x bng canxi: tc mt
Bng (tc lu m).
Cc cht sunfonat u im
Kh nng ly i cht du cao(3-4% i vi cc du
c bit cho tc c du).
LAS Khng thy phn trong kim (cc
Acidsulfonic l cc axt mnh).
Khng t tin.
n nh tt vi ph thp ,dung np nc cng.
Kh nng to bt vn cao khi c cht nhn.
Alpha olefin sulfonat c thp.
c tnh ha tan ha tt /t mu sc/t c mi.
Va phi cc vn tc ng ln da.
C c tnh ty ra tt
Kh nng to bt tt
Sulfosccinat
Rt nh i vi da
Khng lm cay mt
Khuyt im
Xu hng thy phn nhm este ca chng tt hn nn dng chng trong khu vc
pH t 6 n 8(l tng l 6,5).
Phn tn tt cc x bng canxi cng cm gic nh cc
Sulfoalkyl amit ca axit bo
sn phm gc x bng.
V d: Cc c tnh c th so snh vi sulfosccinat
N-axyltaurit Cng c cc vn v tnh n nh.

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 7 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

N-metyl taurit t ha tan trong nc lnh:u tin c s dng trong

Axyl isethionat cc du gi u c.
Th d: Cc dy di: ty ra tt, cc c tnh nh tng ha v
Sulfat lm ha tan tt.
Alkylsunfat
PAS
Alkyl ete sunfat
Th d: Khi s OE yu: ha tan gim trong nc lnh.
R:c12-c14 s OE gia 2 hay Kh nng to bt tt vi s dung np tt i vi da.
3 LES
n nh trong dung dch nc v c th
Sulfat diglycolamit
c s dng trong du gi u.
Carboxylat N Kh nng to bt tt, cc c tnh ty ra tt
axylaminoaxit
Ha tan trong nc cng hn x bng.
Axylsarcosinat Khng hi da v tc
Cung cp cho tc v da v mm mi mt m.
Cc c tnh ty ra tha ng
Kh nng phn tn cc x bng canxi tt.
D x
Polyoxyetylen Cng nhng c tnh nh cc mui N-acyl Amin axit.
Khi n cao chng tng hp vi cc cationic.
D ha tan pH thp.
t to bt hn cc cht LES
Lm mm tc sau khi gi
Hot ng nh cc cht ngng kt (ty git yu).
Cc cationic Hot tnh v mt sinh l v lm cay nga, ngoi tr cc
amin-este c dy di, khi c nhiu nhm OH, th kh
nng gy cay nga yu.
Cc cht lng tnh v cc cht hot ng b mt lng cc
Kh nng tc ng trc tip mnh (c dng trong
cc du gi u dng cho tc bc v tc nhum).
Cc cht lng tnh v ion lng tnh t c hai c t
Alkyl amidobetain lm rt da hn cc cationic ng ng ca chng.
Chng thng kt hp vi cht hot ng b mt khc
(cht anionic v NI) lm du gi u du nh (dnh
cho cc b s sinh).
Cc cht hot ng b mt NI Cht alkanolamit
Gia tng hiu nng to bt
Lm n nh cc cng thc da trn alkylsunfat
stearyl etanolamit: c dng nh cht lm c v to
x c.
Oleyl etanolamit: cng c dng lm mt tc.
Cc dn xut polyetoxy ha
c tnh ty ra tt (t to bt n=2-3 s C trong R. Khi
n cao, kh nng lm rt da gim.
Cc este bo polyetoxy ha l cht thnh phn cn bn
ca du gi u dnh cho b s sinh (rt du). Chng

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 8 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

gim n mc ti thiu kh nng lm rt da v cc

anionic c dng kt hp vi cc este sunfat v
betain. Rt tng hp vi da kh nng to bt c bit
tt.
a chc nng
Hp cht bn cc ationnic n nh bt
iu chnh nhn
Ch yu trong mi trng
C tc dng lm mt tc.
axit
C tim nng chng lm rt da.
Bng 1: Cc thnh phn c th c trong du gi u.

5. Mt cht hot ng b mt chnh.

Bng 2: h thng cc cht hot ng b mt c s dng nhiu nht.
Cht hot ng b mt chnh Cht ng hot ng b mt
Th d Cc c im Th d Chc nng
Lauryl ete sunfat Khng c hi Coco amido Gia tng bt khi c
(LES) Ty ra tt Propyl cc vt bn
Kh nng to bt tt Betain: CAPP Gia tng nhn
t rt da Ci thin du
t /khng c mu sc (hiu qu yu).
t /khng c mi Lm gim hin
D mua tng kh da.
Gi c trung bnh

i vi cc nh sn xut khc ngi ta s dng nhiu cht hot ng b mt khc

trong bng danh sch di cc cht hot ng b mt cho trn y.
a. Cht iu ha
Mt vi cht ty ra c tc dng mnh trn cht du trn tc cng nh trn tay, s
vic ny khng phi l mt im tt cho du gi. Hn na cht ty ra c khuynh
hng b tc hp th, khin cho tc d gy v kh chi chut.
V l do ny ngi ta dng vi cht thnh phn v hiu ha cc tc dng ny:
o Cht lanolin
Cht lanolin v cc cht dn xut ca lanolin, cn cetyl to cc kt qu tt vi t l
thp (nu t l >2%, kh nng to bt du gi du b nh hng).
o Cht lexitin

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 9 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Cht lexitin cng c th c dng t l thp. Trng / lng trng (cha cht
lexitin, cholesterol v cc cht protein) cng c s dng. Tc dng bo v ca
chng (cht keo) gip chng lm mt b tc.
o Cc polime cationic
Trong cc polyme, ngi ta c th k tn chng hn cc homopolyme hay cc
copolyme cationic lm ra bng cch polyme ha mt cht n phn vinyl, ni nhm
amino th bn ln hay mt amin c t phn vi mt cht n phn khc c th
ha tan trong nc nh acrylamit, metacryamitnhng cc polyme c s dng
nhiu nht l nhng cht pht sinh t gm cy guar nh clorua hydroxyl propyl
trimonium ca gm guar c cng thc l:
G' O CH CH2 N+ CH3Cl-
OH

c thng mi ha di tn gi l Jaguar C-13-S, C17,

o Cc cht silicon
Cht silicon, trong ngi ta c th k ra chng hn:
Cht polydimetyl silosan c trng lng phn t cao (trn 200.000) c cng thc:

CH3

Si

CH3
n
Cht dimeticonol c cng thc:

HO Si(CH2) O Si(CH2) O Si(CH2) OH

n
Ngi ta c th cng nhiu cht hot ng b mt du nh nh l cht ph gia,
chng hn:
Cc cht este sorbitan polyetoxy ha ca axit bo.

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 10 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Et

O
CH CH2 CH2O C R
OH OH O
OH

Et Etoxy ha
Este sorbitan poliatoxy ha
Tc dng ca nhng cht lm mt tc ny l do chng hp ph bi si tc
nhanh hn cht hot ng b mt thuc loi alkyl sulfat hay alkyl aryl sunfonat, do
cn tr s hp ph ca chng.
Cc l thuyt khc kt lun rng cc cht lm mt tc dnh cht lc x (khi du
x c pha qu long) hay chng li bao quanh cc mixen ca cht ty ra.
Cc du gi u dng cha bnh
Vi cch thnh lp cng thc cha nhng cht chuyn bit gip cha tr cc
chng khc thng ca tc hay da u. Trong giai on ny, chng ta ch yu
cp n trng hp tc c gu.
b. Cht chng gu
C th c ba cch tc ng
Gim tc thay th cc t bo mi.
Ngn cn s tng trng ca cc loi men nm hu nh l nguyn nhn chnh sn
sinh gu P-ovale.
Gim phn trm acid bo t do trn da u, chng to nn mt mi trng nui
cc vi sinh vt, trong c cc men nm.
V im mt, ngi ta c th suy ngh n cch cng c lp sng gii hn da
ng vy. Trong trng hp ny, vic s dng cc sn phm phn gii da nh lu
hunh hay sulfua seleni, c th mang li nhng hiu qu tt. Tuy nhin, cc sn
phm ny c kh nng lm mng lp sng , khin du xut hin, thun li cc vi
sinh vt.
Cng nn lu rng cht disunfua seleni, do tnh c hi tng i ca n, c
s dng nht l trong cc du gi u dng cha bnh bn ti cc nh thuc.
V im 3, ngi ta cng c th dng du gi u dnh cho tc nhiu du m chng
ta s ni phn sau.
hn ch s tng trng ca vi sinh vt, trong c men nm povale, ngi ta
dng cc cht dit khun. Cc cht thng dng nht l:

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 11 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Cht pyridinthion km (ZnPTO hay ZPTO) c cng thc:

S
N O

S Zn
O

Cht pirocton olamin : etanolamin (octopirox)

CH3 CH3
CH3
CH3 C CH2 CH2 CH CH2
CH3 N
O O H3 N+ CH2 CH2 O

Sn phm th hai ny thng c a chung hn cht ZnPTO, v cht ny c

vn v s n nh ( nhit thp) v cng v tnh c hi na.
Cht pirocton olamin :
D ha tan hn trong cc cht hot ng b mt.
t c hi.
D s dng.
n nh tt.
Nhng gi thnh ca n cao hn ZnPTO mt cch c ngha. Ton b cc bi
vit v vn ny trong cc bng sng ch c gi n cc cht pht minh khc
nh :
Cc mui khng ha tan ca 1-hydroxy-2-pyridimethion.
Mui ca hydroxypiridon c cu trc ha hc.

R N O
OH

Cc dn xut ca imidazolylketon, c cng thc ha hc tng qut nh sau:

O
R1 O CH C C R2

Sunfit silini.
Cc cht thnh phn khc

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 12 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Lot cc cht thnh phn khc s gip ci thin v ngoi ca sn phm trn
phng din vt l ( nhn, ph, tnh n nh, s bo qun) hoc trn phng
din thu ht ngi tiu th (mu sc, mu m v hng thm).
c. Cc cht lm c v lm ng nh xa c
Thng thng l nhng cht sulfat cn c dy di nh sulfat xetyl natri (C16).
Ngi ta cng tm thy nhng cht nh:
Cc cht alkoamin t ha tan ca axit bo no vi C18 hay hn na.
Ru bo ( ru t m b, xetyl, stearyl) c nhim v lm mt tc, nhng gim i
kh nng to bt.
Cc nh tng ca cc polyme vinyl hay styren.
Cht este etylen glycol, propylen glycol hay glyxerol. Trong cc cht ny cht
c s dng nhiu nht l:
Cht monostearat etylen glycol (GMS: glycol mono stearate)
R C O CH2 CH2O
O

Cht distearat etylen glycol (EGDS: Ethylene glycol distearate):

R C O CH2 CH2 O C R
O O

d. Cc cht lm st / cc cht iu chnh nhn

Ngi ta dng cc cht in gii v c NaCl chng hn v cc cht dn xut c
th ha tan ca xenluloza. Cc cht dn xut ny l cc cht lm st cho cc cng
thc c cht lm c v c th c nhng chc nng khc nh: lm du bt, chng
cht bn ti bm. Khi li mt lp mng mng sau khi x, chng gip g ri tc.
Cc polyme carboxyvinylic c thng mi ha di tn gi carbopol (BF.
Goodrich chemical co) c th l nhng cht lm st rt tt, c bit khi c cc ru
bo etoxy ha. Chng lm cho bt c kem, hn na, chng ngn khng cho cc cht
silicon lng ng hay nh tng ca silicon nht l khi du gi u c lu tr
ni nng bc.
Ngi ta c th c c st nh uy1khi pha trn mt vi cht hot ng b
mt: chng hn, mt sn phm du gi u c gc alkylsulfonat trietanolamin c th
c lm st bng cch thm mui amoni tng ng.
Sau cng ngi ta c th iu chnh nhn vi:
Etylenglicol

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 13 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Glyxerol
Cc cht polyetylen glycol (PEG) c nhiu trng lng phn t khc nhau.
e. Cht n nh bt
Cc cht alkylolamit, c bit cc cht mono v dietanolamit, l nhng cht lm
n nh bt tt. Cc sn phm ny cung cp cho bt cc loi hot cht chnh t
trng, cm gic, kem, x bng v cht n nh hn. Hn na, chng c th lm thay
i cc c tnh v nhn ca sn phm. Sau cng, chng cng cung cp mt s
h tr no khi ty bng cc cht sulfat ru bo.
f. Cc cht vitamin
Ngi ta s dng cc vitamin A, B,C v E thng xuyn nht. cc vitamin ny,
c bit vitamin thuc nhm E, can thip vo vic kim sot hin tng oxy ha
kh v c th lm cho mu ca da u c lu thng d dng.
g. Cht bo qun / cht chng oxy ha
Cht bo qun
Cc cht bo qun ngn cn mc pht trin v s ln men. Tht quan trng khi
la chn chng v:
Cc c tnh ca chng khng b ngn cn bi cht hot ng b mt khc nhau
trong cng thc.
Chng phi c n nh khng mt hiu nng cch nhanh chng.
Vi cht c kh nng lm rt da.
Cc cht khc (nhng hp cht phenol) cho mu nu .
Ngy nay cht fomaldehyt vn cn c s dng nhiu nht ( n tc ng trn
mt ph ln nng thp) nhng c kh nng c nhng vn kt hp vi vi
cht ph gia (hn na cht ny b ngn cm trong vi quc gia v nhng vn
v mi sinh).
Nhiu cht bo qun khc c th c s dng (th d: este axit-p-hydrobenzoic,
axit sorbit, sulfat hydroxy quinolin); sn phm c s dng nhiu nht thay th
cht formol l cht bronopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane1-3diol) c cng thc ha
hc:
NO2
H 2C C CH2
OH Br OH

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 14 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Lu : cc sn phm dng lng / gel c th b nhim bi cc men v cc vi sinh

vt, khi t l cc cht hot ng b mt thp v khi cc trang thit b sn xut
khng c tit trng.
c bit l nhng sn phm dng lng ra chn bt vi phn trm cht
hot ng b mt di 20%, cc cht x dng cho qun o, cc du gi u, kem
nh rng, cc gel dng tm vi sen v cc dung dch tm to bt
i vi nhng sn phm ny, ngi ta cn dng cc cht bo qun trnh mc v
vi khun pht trin. Mt khc, chng ta cn c nhng bin php phng trit
nhm dit trng cc trang thit b sn xut.
Cht chng oxy ha
Cht butylated hydroxy toluene (thc cht l 2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol) rt
thng hay c thm vo cng thc nh mt cht chng oxyt ha, nhm ngn cn
s oxyt ha do xc tc ca cc nguyn liu bng vt ca cc nguyn liu chuyn
tip. Cng thc ha hc ca n l:
OH
(CH3)3C C(CH3)3

CH3

Cc tc nhn phc tp cng c s dng ngn cn s hin hnh cc x bng

khng ha tan (Ca v Mg) khi x. Thng thng l cc mui EDTA.
Cc hp cht ny cng c th lm cho cc du vt kim loi phc ha (Cu, Co),
chng h tr s oxy ha cc cht thnh phn do tc dng xc tc.
h. Cc cht mu v hng liu
Cc cht ny phi c tuyn chn theo cc tiu chun cht lng nhng cng
phi tng hp v n nh vi cc thnh phn khc.
i vi cc du gi u dnh cho cc loi da d cm ng c bit cc du gi u
dnh cho b s sinh, hng liu khng c cha cc thnh phn lm rt da.
Tm li
Trong bng 3 tm gn cc cht thnh phn khc nhau v vai tr ca chng c
nu ra trong cc on khc nhau trn y.

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 15 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Bng 3: cc thnh phn chnh v vai tr ca chng

Chc nng ty ra Cc cht thnh phn
Cc cht c hot tnh b mt du: LES
Na-Mg-NH4
Cetyl ES Na MgSulfosuccinat Na
Cc cht hot ng b mt cc du (cht
hot ng b mt NI) chng hn : este
sorbitan polyetoxy ha ca axit bo.
ng cht c hot ng b mt : cc
cht lng tnh, cc cht ion lng tnh,
th d : CAPB.
Lm mm, gip cho cc cht lm du Cht hot ng b mt / amit / x bng
bm ng glycol.
Cc cht cationic
Cc cht trng hp cation
Silicon v cc dn xut
Tc ng cha tr Du, ru bo, cc protein.
i vi tc kh Cc protein, cc vitamin.
i vi tc nhiu du chng gu Cc cht dit khun / cc cht phn gii
da.
n nh silicon Polyme carboxyvinylic
Tc dng lm bng nh x c / nh Ester axit stearic glyxerol
ngc lm st
Bo qun Formol, bronopol.
Chng oxy ha BHT, EDTA.
nhn Cc mui (Na, Cl), glycol-PEG
PH NaOH / axit.

i. Cc cht gy hi :
Mt s thnh phn gy hi cho tc, chng gy ra rng tc, suy yu ca tc v
vim da tit b . y l danh sch ca cc thnh phn nn trnh trong du gi
u:
Sodium lauryl Sulfate
Ammonium lauryl Sulfate
Laureth Sulfate Amoni
Amoni Xylen sulfonate
TEA lauryl Sulfate
Lu hunh (trong du gi tr gu)

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 16 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Selenium sulfide (trong du gi tr gu)

Magnesium Sulfate
Natri thiosunfat
Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate
Alkyl Sodium Sulfate
Alkyl Benzen sulfonate
TEA-Dodecylbenzene
Sodium C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate
Sodium Dodecyl sulfonate

C th c th nu ra mt s dn chng nh sau:

Natri lauryl sulfate hay SLS gy hi cho protein trong mt ca tr em.

Tai hi hn, n c th dn n m dn n s n mn ca nang lng,
lm suy yu kh nng pht trin v bo v mi tc.
Than tar, mt thnh phn ph bin trong du gi, mc d c hiu qu
trong vic kim sot v gim gu, l mt tc nhn gy ung th.
ZPTO l s hin din ca pyrithione km c th gy ra d ng nng,
nhc u, bun nn, mt mi, cng thng v thiu tp trung.
Cht bo qun thng c tm thy trong du gi c cha cc vi
khun dit methylisothiazolinone (MIT), c hin th hn ch s
tng trng ca t bo thn kinh chut cha trng thnh c trong cht
bo qun. Formaldehyde c s dng trong mt s cng l mt
thnh phn ph bin trong du gi u v nguy him trong mt loi du
gi em b. N l mt cht c thn kinh v gy ung th.
Hai thnh phn: cocamide DEA v propylene glycol PEG-55 oleate, c
th lin quan n vn sc khe bnh ung th hoc khc (PEG-55
propylene glycol oleate c th lin quan n ung th v).
Tinh du bc h, propylene glycol, sunfat laureth natri v tetrasodium
EDTA l nhng thnh phn cha c chng minh l an ton.
Mi thm trong sn phm ny c th l mt cht gy d ng, v bn
thnh phn cc parabensethylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben;
v propylene glycol c th gy vn sc khe khc.
Tr em du gi cng c mt mc cao hn ca ethylene oxide lm
gim kch ng. N l mt hp cht cc k c hi v l mt disruptor
ni tit c bit n.
6. V d cc n
Chng ti xin php c nhc li rng c rt nhiu bng sng ch lin quan n
cc cng thc c a ra lm th d trong tc phm ny. Cc bng ny bn n
mt hay hai nguyn liu mi c s dng trong mt sn phm nhng bo v tt
s pht minh ny, cc cng thc c nu ra y bao gm cc nhm cht thnh
phn khc trong mt gam rt ln, i t nhng cht c hot tnh b mt, cc cht x,
cho n nhng hp cht th yu nh cc cht n nhChng hn, i vi mt

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 17 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

hot cht mi c m t trong phn pht minh, ngi ta k ra cc cht trng hp

cationic c th c c t cc cht silicon cho n cc polyme cationic xut pht t
nhng n cht c th hnh dung c. Cng th, i vi mt cht polyme mi
c m t trong phn pht minh, ngi ta nu ra s phi hp ca n vi tt c cc
cht hot ng b mt, tt c cc cht ph gia c m t trong cc bng sng
ch khc. T , ngi ta cn ht sc thn trng khi tham kho cc bng sng ch
trc khi khai thc mt sn phm trnh bt c mt s gi mo no.
Chng ti nhn mnh rng phn ln cc cng thc c a ra lm th d trong cc
tc phm ny minh ha cc nh ca chng ti thng c trch ra t cc
bng sng ch.
Cc th d cng thc c in dnh cho cc loi tc thng
Cc cng thc ny thng c t 12 n 16% cc cht hot ng b mt cationic v
cc cht ng hot ng b mt (cht lng tnh hay cht ion lng tnh) i vi tc
thng. Nu chng hn ngi ta thnh lp cng thc cho mt loi du gi u mu
c ng nh, ngi ta thm cht EGMS hay EGDS. Trong trng hp ngc li
(sn phm trong) ngi ta khng dng nhng cht ny.
Thnh phn A (trong) B (c)
Cht hot ng b mt (LES) 10-15 10-15
Cht ng hot ng b mt 2-4 2-4
Mono hay dietanolamit 0-1 0-1
Cht n nh lm c 0 0,5-2
Cht chng oxy ha + +
Cht bo qun + +
Cht thnh phn iu chnh nhn -/+ -/+
Cht thnh phn iu chnh PH -/+ -/+
Du thm, nc, mu v 100 v 100

Cc cng thc du gi u vi cht x

Phn ln cc du gi u c bn trn th trng c thnh phn cu to sau y:
LES 10-15
CAPB 1-4
Nh tng silicon 0-1,5
Polyme carboxyvinyl (carbopol) 0-0,3

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 18 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Stearat etylen glycol 0,5-1,5

Clorua hydroxypropyl trimonium (guar) 0,1-0,5
Du thm +
Formol 0,05-0,15
BITT 0,025-0,06
NaCl 0,5-1,5
Mu +
Axit xitric / NaOH + / - iu chnh ph
Nc vd 100
Nn nh rng cc du gi u ny rt ph hp gi loi tc kh, cc cht lm du
cho ta cm gic tc mm mt v t kh hn.
Cc du gi u thng c bn vi tn gi du gi u 2 trong 1 pht trin
quan trng v tr thnh mc tiu ca rt nhiu bng sng ch.
y, chng ti nu ra hai th d:
Tin trnh bao gm vic s dng mt cht hot ng b mt nh vi mt cht lm
du ( polyme k nc) phn tn trong mt dung mi c cc d bc hi
( hydrocacbon).
Hn hp cht lm du v dung mi gip ta c c cc ht n 0,1 n 100 my.
Cc ht ny kt t d dng trn tc khi gi u. Sau khi sy kh, dung mi bc hi
li cht lm du, to cho tc nhng c tnh mong mun. Mt th d v cng
thc nu trong bng sng ch 2 c cho di y:
Alkyl ete (glyxerol) sulfonat 14
Hn hp polyme gel / dung mi 6
Phosphat mononatri 0,3
Distearat glycol 2
Monoetanolamit (du da) 0,7
Tetrastearat pentaerythrytol PEG 0,4
Ru xetylic 0,42
Ru stearic 0,18
Polyquaternium 10 0,30
DMDM Hydantoin 0,37
Nc v 100
Cng thc:

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 19 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Sulfonat alkyl ete glyxerol:

R O CH2 CH CH2 SO3- x'
OH
Hay:

HO CH2 CH CH2 SO3- x"

OR

Hydrocarbon hoc (C5-C7) alkyl ete

Cch tip cn khc gm s dng mt polyme dimethiconol NI kt hp vi mt

polyme cationic gip kt t. Cc th d v cng thc nu trong bng sng ch c
cho di y.
1 2 3
LES (2 OE) 16 16 16
CAPB 2 2 2
Polyme kt t 0,1 0,1 0,1
Nh tng ca polyme dimethyconol (60%) 3,2 - -
Nh tng silicon trong c hot tnh b mt (50%) - 3 -
Nh tng silicon ch to vi my khuy mnh - 4 -
EGDS 1,5 - 1,5
Carbopol 980 - 0,4 -
Nc v 100 v 100 v 100

Du gi u dnh cho tc nhiu du

i vi loi du gi du ny, ngi ta s dng mt hn hp cc cht hot ng b
mt c kh nng gi sch loi cc cht du v cht bn da du gi li trong
tc, m khng lm hi da u. Tht s, da u c chng nhn cho thy mt b mt
d b ri lon, mng manh v qu cm ng vi bt k kch thch no (chng hn,
thoa bp thi qu): nh th n phi c x l vi rt nhiu s thn trng.
Chng hn, ngi ta c th k ra:
Cc axit bo t do, cc axit ny, dng vi lng t m c, c th lm cho tr hon
cht nhn ca da u chuyn ln tc.
Cc protein (gelatin hay casein) c th ht cht nhn v khin n c tnh cht sp
lm gim nhy vi chng da nhn ny.

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 20 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Mt bng sng ch L Oreal ngh s dng cc cht hot ng b mt NI dn xut

t polyglyxerol c c tnh to bt v ty ra tt v gip ko di r rng thi gian
ti to cht du m khng phi thm nhng cht chng no khc. Vi cht ph gia
c th c thm vo cc cng thc ny ci thin cng hiu ca chng.
Th d cng thc:
LES Na hay NH4 8-14
CAPB 2-4
Mono / dietanolamit -/+
Cht lm c 0-2
Cht thnh phn chuyn bit 0,05-0,1
Cht phn gii t protein, trng
Cht bo qun +
Cht chng oxy ha +
Du thm, nc v 100
Du gi u dnh cho cc loi tc kh
Ngi ta dng hn hp cc cht hot ng b mt nh v cc cht ph gia m khi
hp th trn tc, c th b p nhng khim khuyt ca thin nhin. Trong cc ph
gia ny ngi ta c th k:
Cc axit hu co xitric, tartric ngn cn vic o thi cc cht amino-acid hay oligo-
protein do tc b bin cht.
Cc axit bo (oleic, stearic).
Cc ru bo (lauric, myristic, oleic).
Cc triglyxeric t nhin ( du hnh, du ng, du oliu).
Cc este: stearat hay oleat glycol.
Cc cht thy gii ca protein (collagen, gelatin, casein).
Th d v cng thc
LES Na hay NH4 8-4
CAPB 2-4
Mono / dietanolamit -/+
Cht lm c 0-2
Cht thnh phn chuyn bit
Du oliu, du hnh nhn
Cht thy gii ca protein 0,05-0,1

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 21 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Ru bo: xetylic, stearic 0,1-0,4

Vitamin 0-0,2
Cht bo qun / cht chng oxy ha +
Du thm, nc vd 100
Du gi u dnh cho b s sinh
c tnh ch yu c c i vi cc du gi u ny l nh nhng vi tc, da u
v nht l mt. Ngi ta s dng cc cht hot ng b mt t hn v t l cht hot
ng b mt v ng hot ng b mt do cng b thay i. Mt khc, ngi ta
c th s dng cht hot ng b mt du hn na nh cc axit bo ca axit
sulfosuccinic, cc este sorbitan polyoxyetylen ha
Th d v cng thc:
LES (2 hoc 6 hoc 8 OE) Na, Mg hoc
Oleyl ete sulfat Na,Mg hoc
Sulfosuccinat Na 5-7
Ester sorbitan polyoxyetylen
Ha ca axit bo 0,5-1
CAPB 3-4
Cht bo qun / cht chng oxy ha +
Du thm, nc vd 100
Th d v cng thc chng gu
Ngi ta dng cc cht thnh phn chuyn bit :
Hoc cc cht dit khun hay dit nm trnh s ny n cc vi khun v cc men
(P.Ovale).
Hoc cc sn phm phn gii da cng c lp sng nhm gii hn ng vy :
sunfua selenium (ng hn dng cho vic bo ch dc liu) hay axit salisilic.
Th d v cng thc
1 2 3 4
LES 10-15 10-15 10-15 10-15
CAPB 1-2 1-2 1-2 1-2
Tc nhn chng gu
Cht dit khun
Pirocton olamin 0,05-0,15
Pyridin thion km 0,05-0,15

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 22 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Cht phn gii da

Sulfua seleni 2
Axit salisilic 2
Cht lm c, cht bo qun
Nc v 100 v 100 v 100 v 100
Lu : trong cc cng thc mu v du gi du chng gu hay dnh cho loi tc
nhiu du, tc kh v tc b s sinh, ngi ta c th hi nhp cc h thng cht lm
mm mt trong cc th d v cc du gi u 2 trong 1.
Du gi u kh (bt gi u)
Loi sn phm ny hon ton chuyn bit (cch thnh lp cng thc khng da trn
cc cht hot ng b mt). Ngi ta thoa sn phm (bng bt) kh trn tc, bt
tip xc vi tc sau chi bt i.
Ba cht thnh phn to nn loi cng thc ny:
Cht u tin s ht cc cht bo (tinh bt ca la, bp).
Cht thnh phn c tnh n mn loi cht bn (t loi).
Cht th ba l mt tc nhn kim (Na carbonat, borax).
7. Du x
Trong cc nm 60, cc sn phm ny ch c s dng trong cc ca hiu un
tcNgi ta cng nhn s thnh cng chng t c ngy nay trong phn ln
cc nc pht trin, nht l M. Ngi ta khuyn dng cc sn phm ny khi tc
qu di v c sy kh nh mt my sy in. Cc sn phm ny to nn mt c
tnh sau y:
Mt b tc mm mi (tc t).
D chi (tc kh).
Bng, mt, mn, dy
Bo v (c bit cc u si tc).
a.Nguyn tc thnh lp cng thc
Ngi ta c th chia du x thnh hai nhm:
Du x c in (khng c polyme lm st).
Du x c polyme lm st.
Cc cht thnh phn cn bn
Trong c hai trng hp, chng bao gm mt cht hot ng b mt cation v mt
ru bo nh l cc cht thnh phn cn bn.

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 23 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Cht cationic d thm t trn tc (mang in tch m) v c tc dng x nh (c

bit, d chi tc kh hay t). Khuyt im chnh ca n l lm cay mt.
Ru bo ci thin s an ton v tnh chc nng ca cc dung dch cht cationic, v
n gip to thnh hn hp hai lp b phn tn trong pha nc.
Pha lp ny c ba chc nng:
Lm cho sn phm hot ng kt t c trt t hn trn si tc, nh th gia tng tnh
chc nng ca n.
Gim s gy rt ca cht cationic bng cch gim m c ca n cht t do.
Mng li m pha ny hnh thnh nn to mt h thng hu hin gi c th vn
(nh th sn phm n nh).
Cc cht thnh phn khc
Polyetylen glycol
Cht ny c th dng nh cht lm t.
Hydroxyetyl xenluloza
Polyme NI: n ng vai tr lm c v lm cho phng thc sn xut d dng hn.
Cc cht in gii
Cc nhn trong cng thc khng cha hydroxyetyl xenluloza b nh hng su
rng bi s hin din cc cht in gii ha tan trong nc. Ngi ta c th thm
bromua kali lm c sn phm.
b.Cc cng thc mu
Cng thc c in
Bng 5: th d cng thc cc du x
A/ Du x B/ Cht lm c / cht lm ng nh
Clorua cetyl 0,5-1,2 Monostearat 0.5-1
trimetyl amoni glyxerol
(CTAC)
Ru xeto stearyl 1,5-3 Stearat stearyl 0,3-0,7
Poly dimetyl 0,5-2,5 Palmitat xetyl 0,3-0,7
siloxan Parafin 0,5-1,5
(>5000cps) Hydroxyetyl 0,7-1,5
xenluloza
A: m c ty theo hiu qu mong c
B: ngi ta c th tm thy mt hay nhiu cht lm c trong cng mt cng thc.
Du x c bit
Du x dng chm sc tp trung
Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 24 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh
Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Thng thng l nhng du x thuc loi c in nhng giu cht ru bo.

Th d:
A B
CTAC 0,8-1,2 1-1,5
Ru xeto stearyl 2-3 2-4

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 25 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Ru xetyl 0,5-1,5 -
Parafin 0,5-1,5
Stearat stearyl 1,5-3 -
Hydroxyetyl xenluloza 1-2 -
Hydroxypropyl metyl xenluloza - 1-2
Poly dimetyl silosan 5000cps 0,5-1,5 -
Cht bo qun + +
Du thm + +
Mu + +
Nc v 100 v 100
Du x chng gu
Cht pirocton olamin gn nh khng ha tan trong du x nn. Di mc gii hn
ha tan, n hin din di dng rn c th kt t cch hu hiu trn tc v trn da
u.
Vn ln gp phi vi cht pirocton olamin c lin quan n s phai mu (vng)
c th din ra tng tc vi tia U.V. Nhu cu c s dng cc bao b c hoc c
cha cht hp th tia U.V l cn thit. N cng c th tng tc vi hng liu v
vi st. Nh th vic hiu chnh cng thc l tng i kh.

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

VIII. Kem nh Rng

1. Lch s hnh thnh
Trong cc ti liu Ai Cp vo th k 4 c m t v kem nh rng l hn
hp mui, ht tiu en, bc h, hoa cy irit. Ngi La M dng kem nh rng cha
thnhphn da trn nc tiu. C th amoniac trong nc tiu c tc dng lm
trng rng.
Ngi Vit v mt s dn tc ng Nam c tc n tru. Hn hp l tru
khng, qu cau v vi cng c coi l c tc dng lm sch v bo v rng.
Do , nhu cu v s dng kem nh rng cc vng min trn th gii cng
khc nhau, c th nh biu di y, s liu nm thng k t nm 1991 n
1996:

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 27 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

2. Khi nim i cng v cu trc ming

Ming cha cc rng nim mc ming (m, li, li cc phn c nh) v
nc bt (phn di ng).Cc phn c nh c tm bi mt lung nc ming lin
tc.
Cc rng c c nh trong cc xng bi chn rng.Phn mt phi by ca
rng(than rng) c bao bc bi mt lp men, mt cht rt cng khng cha t
bo sng v ging nh xng chng c cu to bng nhng tinh th
hydroxyapatit (mt loi photphat canxi). B dy ca men c th n 1mm. Ng rng
l mt loi men t cng hn cha n 20-30% t bo sng. Ng rng ca chn rng
c bao bc bi mt cht nhiu th qua nhiu si ca dy chng chn bm
vo. C rng l ng ni gia men rng v chn rng, thng n c bao bc bi
mt nim mc nu. Phn tm ca rng gm ty rng, mt m cha nhiu mch
mu v thn kinh.
Nc bt lun lun c i mi, do cc gn nm g m v phn di
ming tit ra. N rt cn thit lm trn v bo v cc nu. Nc ming cu to
bi protein cha nhiu hydrat carbon lm cho nc c nhn, cho php lun lun
bao bc ming bng mt mng protein(mng mng). Vi khn ch khu tr c
rng nu chng c th bm c vo cc mng ming y. Nc bt cng cha canxi
v photphat gip duy tr s ton vn ca b mt men rng, mt s enzym, vi khun
v nhng cht khng khun.
3. Nhng vn chnh v rng:
bit c nhng yu cu ca mt kem nh rng cn phi bit vn n
phi i din.
a. Ba rng
Ba rng l phn trng ng tch t vo rng v nu. N c th b loi tr bng
cnh chi rng.
Phn nhiu vn rng xut pht trc tip t nhng g lin h n ba
rng.Khong 70% ba rng cha hng triu vi khun nm trong mt khi
cacbohydrat khng tan (cht c bn c tng hp bi vi khun). Ba rng bt u
vi lp bm ca cht nhy nc bt ln rng, c cha nhng vi khun hiu kh (cn
oxy pht trin), sau cc vi khun ym kh xut hin. Cc vi khun ym kh
nay ch yu l nguyn nhn ca nhng bnh lin quan n ba rng.

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 28 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

b. Nhng vn thuc v nu rng

Do thiu v sinh, ba rng pht trin gy ra vim nu(sng do c t tit ra
t vi khun). Nu s vim ty ko di, nu rt vo, ng ca chn rng (mng
manh hn) b phi by. Nu tri ra qu, rng khng cn ng vng v rt ra.
c. Cao rng
y l phosphat canxi ca nc bt ng trn ba rng. Nc bt l mt dung
dch rt bo ha v phosphat canxi (do cc tinh th kt t li 1 cch d dng).
Cao rng bm cht vo b mt ca rng v khng th b loi tr bng cch chi rng
n gin.
d. Rng nhy cm
Nu rng li vo theo tui lm phi by ng ca chn rng (di lp bo v
men) k n l ty rng. Cc t bo thn kinh ca ty rng by gi b phi by vi
mi kch thch bn ngoi ( nng, lnh, gy ra cm gic au).
S tn cng vo ng rng cng khng th do s ch xt rng qu mnh v lu
ngy nh th lm cho nu rt li.
e. Cc m trn rng
Cc mu bm cht vo men rng khng ly i mt cch n gin bng cch
chi rng vi nc. Kem nh rng cn cha mt cht mi mn nh, khng tn
cng men rng hoc ng rng.
f. Mi hi ming
Nhng thiol c th c to ra bi s bin th do vi khun gy ra s hi
ming. Cc rng su cng ng gp vo mi hi ming.
nh rng u vi mt kem chng ba bm v chng su rng l cn thit.
Nhiu sn phm cha nhng cht ph gia c bit tc ng ti thiol.
g. Su rng
Rng su l rng c l trong men
Khi xc nh c bnh l,rng b nhng tn hi khng th cha c
km theo s au dn v khng thoi mi. Nu khng c diu tr, rng s i n
ch b hy hoi hon ton.
Su rng l mt qu trnh do s hy hoi cc b ca cu trc rng: di tc
ng ca nhng axit hu c, men rng b tiu hao khong cht diu ny gii phng
ion ca men rng nh canxi phosphat, carbonat, ma nh, flourua, natri, cng nh
nhng bn t khc.

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 29 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

 Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

S hin din ca vi khun sinh axit l iu kin cn thit ca qu trnh (mi vi

khun c kh nng bin i ng thnh axit l loi sinh su rng). Cc vi khun
c bit di tn streptococcus mutans l sinh axit cao, do lm gia tng mnh
nguy c su rng. Cc hydrat cacbon ca thc phm c t nhiu ngun: sacaroza,
hydrat cacbon ln men c v.v Axit cng c th c t thc ung.
Cc yu t c tc ng ln nhng acid trn men rng l: thi gian lu li ca
thc n trn mt rng, lng thc n, kh nng lm d dng cho s to ba trn
rng.
Su rng ch xut hin khi cc yu t sau y tp hp li cng lc:
Mt rng b nguy c
S hin din ca hydrat cacbon ln men.
S hin din ca vi khun len axit.
Khong thi gian cn thit cho s hy hoi rng
Thi gian hoc sc ti khong ha khng .
Thng thng nc bt ng vai tr bo v: n lm m cho dng acid b
mt rng,cha mt s c tnh, khng khun v manh li nhiu yu t tham gia vo
s ti khong ha ca m rng (chng hn nh canxi,phospho

Cao rng
Ha vi
Th hi
B mt Khng vi Thiol axit
Mng mng
cng khun trn
rng Su rng
c t
Vim li
4. Cc cht thnh phn chnh v chc nng ca chng
Mt kem nh rng phi ng nhiu vai tr:
Trc tin l lm sch v lm thm min. K n, n l cht ti cho nhng tc nhn
tr liu.
a. Nc
Nc ha tan v phn tn cc tc nhn tr liu, ty ra, lm st lm du
b. Cc tc nhn lm t

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 30 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Chng gip lm gim khi lng nc trong cng thc (nh vy gip mt
mc s bo qun sn phm) v gii hn s lm kh (khi khng y np chng
hn). Chng do ng vai tr nh trong sc thi ca kem nh rng v lm bng
mt phn no,
Ngi ta thng s dng:
Sorbitol, lm du v lm mt
HOCH2[CH(OH)]3CH2-OH
Glyxerol lm du v cho mt cm gic nng
HOCH2CH(OH)CH2OH
Nhng loi ru thng c s dng trong cc du gi u ,kem nh
rng ,gel tm.
Etanol : CH3CH2OH
Etylen glycol : CH2OH-CH2OH
Propylen glycol : CH2OH-CHOH-CH3
Glyxerol : HOCH2CH(OH)CH2OH
Sorbitan : HOCH2[CH(OH)]3CH2-OH
Polyetylen glycol :-[CH2-CHO] n-

c. Cc cht ty ra
Cht ty ra cho php:
Gip ty rng
To bt theo yu cu ngi tiu dng
Ha tan v phn tn cc mi hng khng tan trong nc (to cc mixel
trong du thm ha tan)
y cng vy, hai cht thnh phn c mt v tr ch ng:
Laurylsulfat Na:
CH 3 CH 2 11 SO4 Na
Alkylbenzen sulfonat Na:
CH 3 CH 2 11 CH 6 H 4 SO3 Na
Ngi ta c th c cht lng tt/ s lng bt bng cch trn hai phm li vi
nhau.

d. Cc cht mi mn
Cht mi c lm sch rng cng ng gp vo s bo nhn ca kem nh rng.
Vic c ra c thc hin bng cch mi cc vt mng c mu b mt rng.
Ba cht mi mn chnh c s dng gm:
Silic(SiO2) khng nh hnh
Cacbonat canxi( CaCO3: caclcit hay aragonite)
Alumin (hydroxit nhm): Al(OH)3
Nhng cht mi khc l:
Phostphat dicanxi hydrat ha
(CaHPO4.2H2O)

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 31 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Phostphat dicanxi
CAHPO4
Metaphosphat khng tan
(NaPO)x
Pyrophosphate natri
Ca2P2O7
Cc cht thnh phn ny khng c lm h hi men v ng rng, nhng c
cng hiu loi tr cc vt mu. Hiu qu ca n ty thuc :
cng ca chng
Kch thc ht
Nng ca chng trong sn phm hon tt
Bng 1.1 m t s so snh cng gia cht mi mn v rng
Cht mi mn Rng
Silic
Carbonat
Khng nh Alumin Men rng Ng rng Ba
Ca
hnh
5 2,5-3,5 3-4 4-5 2-2,5 3

Bng nu trn chao thy r rng ch c ng rn ( t cng hn men rng) can

phi cu xt khi chn cht mi mn. Hn na nhng tiu chuan c thc hin
trong chiu hng y( s mi mn c xc nh bng s lng ng rng b mi
mn trong nhng iu kin xc nh). Ngi ta ni n s mi mn ca nhng kem
nh rng bng thut ng D.A.V (Dentine Abrasion Value- Gi tr mi mn ng
rng).
S mi mn ng gp vo nhn ca kem nh rng (nu n cha mt t l
cht mi mn cao (> 30%) th nhn tng.

e. Cc cht lm st
Chng cho php trnh s lng ng ca cht mi mn v mang li nhng c
tnh thay i nhn cho sn phm (d lay kem ra khi ng, d nn kem ln bn
chi m khng b chy di)
Cc cht lm st to cu trc pha lng ca sn phm lm l long cht mi mn.
Cu trc ny bin mt khi ngi ta bp ng kem, v c ti to li khi p sut ln
ng ngng (c tnh thixotropy).
Ngi ta s dng nhng cht lm st hu c hoc khong cht. Trong s cc
cht hu c, ngi ta thy nhng polymer nh carboxymetyl xebluloza CMCNa v
gm xanthan. CMC Na xut hin di nhiu dng v c kh nng lm st khc nhau
v s khoang dung i vi cht in gii.

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 32 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Gm xanthan l mt polymer thin nhin c trng lng phn t cao do s ln

men ca Xathomonas Campetris trong mi trng glucoza. N c nhiu thun li
hn i vi CMCNa ( cm gic trong ming, d chp nhn cc cht din gii, chu
c s phn gii vi khun, n nh vi thi gian).
Cc khong cht chnh lm st thng c s dng l cc silic:
Nhit gii
Kt ta
Gel
Hoc mt s t st( laponit, hoc cht tng ng l hectonit).
Thnh thong ngi ta s dng polyetylen glycol to cu trc v ha tan
ng thi c mi hng v cht hot ng b mt.
f. Cc tc nhn lm du
Cc loi tc nhn ny cho php to c mt sn phm chp nhn c theo
ngha mi v chng hn( n che giu v ng ca vi cht thnh phn ca cng
thc)
Theo lch s ng c s dng nh cht lm du!Ngy nay cc cht thnh
phn c s dng khng ln men (iu ny trnh su rng). Cht c dng nhiu
nht l ng saccharin, c dng t lu (mui Natri o-ulfolbenzimit).
O

N - Na+
S
O O

g. Cc cht lm c
Trong nhng kem trng c, ngi ta thm oxit titan vo (TiO2) lm kem
trng hn, hoc lm thay i mu sc ca sn phm mu.
h. Cc loi mu
Cc mu c s dng phi p ng nhng tiu chuan an ton v c gi thnh.
Do thng l nhng mu thc phm tan hay khng tan
Hin nhin l c th thm mt lng nh cht n nh mu ( sulfat manhe )
i. Cht n nh v s iu chnh pH
Trc kia, nhng kem nh rng c gc alumin c bc trong nhng ng
nhm khng men. trnh nhng phn ng ha hc gia ng cha v kem, ngi

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 33 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

ta thm mt cht n nh. Cht mono phosphate natri ( NaH 2PO4), ngy nay vn
ang c s dng chung vi phosphate (to nn nhng mui phostphat km khng
tan).
Mun lm tng pH ca cc cng thc vi t sut sorbitol ln, ngi ta c
th a phosphate (Na3PO4) vo. Trong trng hp ny, v l do nh gi trc
y, ngi ta khng th a vo cht xitrat km, y ngi ta phi thm soda vo
diu chnh pH.
j. Cc hng v
Mi v kem nh rng cc k quan trng i vi ngi tiu dng. Mt cch
tng qut, ngi ta nhn thy rng ngoi mt s trng hp c bit nh hng v
cho tr em, s hng v dng c rt hn ch. Ch yu ngi ta thy cc mi c
gc bc h v lc (menthe verte) hay bc h tiu (menthe poivre) (hoc mt hn
hp c 2 th) chim 80%. Phn cn li tng ng vi methylsalixylat (cy
gaultheria).
Trong nhiu mc, hng v a thch c khc nhau, tri cy nh Nht Bn,
mi hi (anis) a Trung Hi, mi gia v Nam M.
Cc du mint/peppermint to vi menthol 60 n 80% gc thm ca kem nh
rng. Cc ngun gc ca mi hng c th hoc thin nhin hoc nhn to.
Di y l mt s cng thc hng v ca kem nh rng:
H3C O
CH3 CH3 H 3C O C
C OCH3 OH
O O
OCH3
C
O
OH
OH
OCH3
H3 C CH2 H3C CH3 OH H3C CH3 CH2 CH CH2

k. Cc cht bo qun
Cht lm m mang li s bo qun t ng nhng trong cc cng thc c t
nc, ngi ta c th thm nhng sn phm c ch s ln mc hoc vi khun,
chng hn nh:
Formol
Benzonat natri

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 34 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Sorbat Kali
Parabenzoat metyl
Benzoat Na v sorbet K c dng pH< 5,5 ( chng cng hiu hn di th
khng ion. Ngc li parabenzoat metyl cng hiu hn vi pH gn trung tnh.
Cc tc nhn tr liu
Chng cao rng
Theo truyn thng, cc mui pyrophosphate c s dng l:
Pyrophosphate Na(t tan nhit thp)
Tetraphosphat Kali (tan d hn nhng c v mn)
Chng thng c dng chung:
Cc tc nhn chng nhy cm
Tc nhn u tin c cho php l stronti nhng n cng c v mn, hn na
n khng ph hp vi cc florua
Axetat stronti l th h hai (v t mn hn, ph hp vi cc florua hn).
Cc mui Kali (clorua, ni trat, xitrat) thng c s dng nht ( chng ph
hp vi cc florua v c v trung tnh)
Cc tc nhn chng ba ng trn rng
Ngi ta chia lm 2 nhm chnh:
Cc tc nhn dit khun vi ion kim loi.
Cc tc nhn khng khun hu c.
Trong loi ny, ngi ta thy nhng mui km (tan trong nc), ng hoc thit

c bit, cc mui km l cc sn phm thng c s dng nht trong cc

loi kem nh rng (thng l xitrat km). Theo ti liu, ngun ion km l clorua
km, sulfat km hoc thioxyanat km v.v..
Trong cc loi khng khun hu c, loi thng bit nht l digluconat
cloherxodin, nhng n c v ng v c khuynh hng nhum rng. N khng
thnh cng lm trong cc kem nh rng
Ngc li, triclosan (Irgasan DP 300 ca Ciba Geigy) c s dng rng ri
Nhiu tc gi ngh rng vic ch dng mt mui dit khun trong kem nh
rng t c hiu qu hn dng phi hp hai tc nhn dit khun (v d: xitrat

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 35 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

km/Triclosan). S kh mng thc n trn rng dng nh c thy r hn v lm

chm s pht trin vim nu rng.
Chng su rng
Mt s kh nng c ngh kim sot v lm gim su rng l mt
trong nhng vn ph bin nht.
Vic s dng cc mui flo l mt trong nhng phng tin hiu qu nht chng li
vic ny
Ngi ta ngh rng tc ng ca flo c th gn cho:
Tc ng dit khun ca flo
Tc ng qua li gia flo v men rng to mt hp cht hydroxyapyt
flo ha, chu axit hn l chnh men rng
Florua c mt tc ng hn gn, qua n cung cp cht khong vo vt
thong ch su rng lc bt u chng c hnh thnh, do mt c ch ti khong
ha, nh c s to canxi v phosphate.
c bit rng cht flo nh ch s pht trin ca cc vi khun nhng nng
can thit c tc ng khng khun rt cao so vi nng c c bng cch
dng mt kem nh rng c flo. S to thnh mt hp cht hydroxyapait flor ha
chu axit hn v s nh ch ca s thoi ha khong ca men rng.
S ti khong ha men rng do mt s hp ph florua b mt men. Vt
thng c ti khong ha dng li nhng khng gim hoc tng theo thi gian.
S a florua vo rng sinh ra hydroxyapatit flo ha chu dng tt hn men
rng
Mt nng khong 0,01 -0,2 ppm flor l to hydroxypatit flo ha nhm
mc ch lm gim s ha tan ca men rng v gip gn canxi vo ch su rng
Mt cch tng qut ngi ta nh rng mi ngy t 1 n 3 ln. Nu dng kem
c flo, hm lng flo trong nc bt ca h l hai ln nhiu hn hm lng ca
ngi s dng kem khng c flo. iu ny do florua hp ph nhng ni trong
ming sau khi chi rng.
Cc flo ny sau c tun t phng thch trong nc bt
S loi tr flo c thc hin bng hai giai on:
Sau khai chi rng, nng gim nhanh v t c mc khong 0,08 ppm
flo sau 30 pht.

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 36 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Trong giai on hai, nng ny gim chm hn t c mt nng

gn nh n nh vo khong 0,02ppm flo gia hai ln chi rng. Mt sn phm c
cng thc tt cho php c mt t sut flo t do cao hn 0,02 ppm trong nc bt
trong nhiu gi.
T nhng nm 40, florua Na l mui flo c a thm vo nhng kem nh
rng, tip theo nhng thnh tu gt hi c trong vn gim su rng khi ngi
ta thm n vo nc.
Tuy nhin di dng ny c s to canxi khng ha tan trc s hin din ca
carbonat c trong cng thc, v hiu qu lm sn l lm cho n khng cn na
Florua u tin c cho vo kem nh rng c hiu qu thc t l: florua
thic SnF, nhng c gp mt s kh khn trong phng thc sn xut
Theo ti liu ngi ta k ngun gc ca ion florua: florua natri, florua Kali,
florua Li, florua nhm, florua km. Florua thic, monoflorophosphat natri, florua
phosphate axit, bi florua amoni, tetraflorua titan hoc florua amin.
Trn thc t, nhng hp cht lm pht sinh ion florua l florua natri,
monofloruophosphat natri v i khi mt s florua amin.
T chc y t th gii c thit lp mt bn th gii v su rng la tui 12,
phn nh thc s thi quen n ung.
Nhng s tin trin cho thy rng cc nc cng nghip, s khm nghim l
m tnh trong nhng nm 70, trong lc cc nc ang pht trin t vn hn
V sinh rng gip loi b cc mng thc n ng rng, chng l nguyn nhn
ca nhng bnh nh vim nu, vim v su rng. Tuy nhin, nhng nghin cu
sau cho thy rng c s lin kt km gia cc mng ng trn rng v su rng.
Th nn ch ly i cc mng y do chi rng khng loi tr cc vn su
rng.
Cc florua cng c nghin cu trong chi tit, thng l i vi cc nh bo
ch ln nh vo cc chng trnh nghin cu di hn vo nhng nhm c theo
di thng xuyn.
Cc kt lun r rng : s chi rng ch lm gim su rng tr trng hp cc
kem nh rng c cha flor
Di y l cc cht pha trn chnh

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 37 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Chc nng Cht thnh phn

Ty ra Bt LAS-PAS
Lm t Sorbitol,Glyxerol
Mi mn Silic khng nh hnh, cacbonat kt
ta,alumin, phosphate canxi v.v..
Lm st Cc dn xut, gm sathan, gel silic
Tc nhn lm du Saccharin
Tc nhn lm c Oxyt titan
Hng v Du bc h, peppermint,v..v
Bo qun Formol, benzoate natri
Cc tc nhn tr liu:
Chng su rng Cc dn xut c florua
Chng cao rng Pyrophosphate
Dit khun Dit khun
i vi rng nhy cm Axetat stronti, cc mui kali

5. Cc cng thc mu:

Cng thc c
V d ca cng thc sau y cha florua natri nh l ngun cng cp ion florua
v clorua km nh l mt cht dit khun:
Florua Na 0,22
Clorua km 2
Sorbitol 70% 35
Glyxetol 10
Silic hydrat ha 23
Taurat Na 3,75
Gm xathan 1
Hydroxyetyl xenluloza 1
Gluconat Na 0,80
Oxit titan 0,80
Saccharinat Na 0,7
Saccharin 0,10
Benzoat NA 0,20
Hng v 1,3
Nc kh khong v 100
V d ca cng thc sau cha monofloruophosphat natri nh l ngun cung
cp flora v hai cht dit khun phi hp (xitrat km v trichlosan)
Alumin trihydrat ha 50
Sorbitol 70% 27
PAS Na 1,88
Las Na 0,63
CMCNa 0,8
Xitrat km trihydrat ha 1

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 38 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

Monoflorophosphat Na 0,5
Hng v 0,85
Saccharinat Na 0,18
Formol 0,04
Nc kh khong v 100

1.4.2 Cng thc kem nh rng trong sut

Cc kem nh rng trong sut c c bng cch sp xp ch s khc x ca pha
lng v pha rn.
Th d, ch s khc x ca nhng cht khc nha c gi tr sau day:
Silic 1,43-1,45
Alumin 1,52-1,55
Carbonat 1,148-1,168
Sorbitol(xitro) 1,455-1,461
Glyxerol 1,4729
Nc 1,333
Ngi ta c th thy rng khi thm nhng lng nh xiro sorbitol 70% trong
nc hoc glyxerol, ngi ta c thc cng ch s khc x nh ch s khc x ca
silic
V d th nht
Glyxerin 99,5% 9,95
Sorbitol 70% 33,88
CMCNa 0,4
Caragen 0,4
Florua Na 0,243
Saccharinat Na 0,3
Anhydrite polyvinyl etet/maleic 2,00
Soda 50% 0,6
Silic kt ta 2,2
PAS Na 1,5
Hng v 1
Triclosan 0,3
Nc v 100

V d 2 :
S phi hp cc mui tan ca km vo kem nh rng khng khun c th
ko theo s to nn nhng tinh th trong mt kem nh rng trong sut. Mt bng
sng ch ca Unilever cho thy vic s dng mt achit amin cho php trnh cc vn
y.
Sorbitol 70% 58,59 58,59
Polyetylen glycol pm 1500 5 5
Monoflorophosphat Na 0,8 -
Florua Na - 0,33

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 39 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

PAS Na 1,7 1,7

CMCNa 0,5 0,5
Sacarin 0,2 0,2
Phm mu 0,012 0,012
Hng v 1,1 1,1
Sulfat km heptahydrat 0,686 0,686
Glyxin 0,3584 0,3584
Nc v100 v100
Cc v d nu trn ca cha nhng tc nhn dit khun ln chng su rng.
Mt cch tng qut cc sn phm bn trn th trng ch cha nhng tc nhn
chng su rng l ch v vn gi thnh.
Cn ghi nh rng khng phi a vo nhng mui flo trong kem nh rng l
kem tr nn c hiu qu mt cch t ng i vi su rng. iu cn thit l sn
phm y phi n nh trong sut thi gian ca sn phm. Cng khng thy him
trn th trng c qung co kem nh rng c cha florua, thc t khng cn ion
florua hot tnh. Thun li ca nhng nh bo ch danh ting l ch h bit lm
tc nhn chng su rng c n nh. Chng hn nh bit la chn nguyn liu
phng php ch bin, s dng nhng h thng n nh.
Mt khc vi nhng cng trnh nghin cu ngi ta lun lun c gng ci tin
hiu qu ca cc cht chng su rng chng hn nh tm ra nhng hp cht florua
hiu qu hn nh cc florophosphat alkylamin hoc nhng cht phi hp cha
nhng hp cht florua vi nhng tc nhn khc nh silicon hoc mt hn hp mui
flor vi mt glucid c c tnh chng su rng cao hn.

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 40 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh

Trng H Cng Nghip Thc Phm Tp.HCM Khoa Cng Ngh Ha Hc

V. Kt lun
Trong thi i ngy nay, nhu cu lm p ngy cng cao, nhu cu v cc sn phm
chm sc c nhn v th cng gia tng. Vi nhng sn phm chm sc c nhn hin
nay, rt kh la chn v nhn bit sn phm c hi hay khng, cha k n s
nguy him v thm m cng nh sc khe.
Vic hiu bit v tc dng cng nh tc hi ca sn phm l cn thit cho mi
ngi, mi nh. Cc thnh phn ny c sn trong cc sn phm truyn thng c
hi hay li chng ta cha tng bit n. Mt khc chng li kh n gin v ph
bin trong thnh phn m chnh chng ta c th iu ch, sn xut m ta c th an
tm hn v thnh phn cng nh cht lng.
Qua bi tiu lun ny, chng ta c th nhn bit c, cc thnh phn ca kem nh
rng cng nh du gi u ang s dng trn th trng s c th la chn nhng
sn phm tt cho mnh v cho mi ngi.
Cm n s ch lng nghe ca c v cc bn trong lp./.
Nhm 01 thc hin thng 12 nm 2010.

Kem nh Rng Du Gi u 41 GVHD: Nguyn Th Hng Anh