DIY Kitchen Island

with trash storage

Affiliate links below for products I own and use.

Tools List:
Circular saw
Sliding compound miter saw (for fine-cutting plywood)
Cordless drill
Kreg jig pockethole system
Table saw (for ripping planked top boards)
Cordless nailer
Orbital sander
Belt sander
80 grit sandpaper (for belt sander)
150 grit sandpaper (for orbital sander)
220 grit sandpaper (for orbital sander)
1 wood chisel
Wood clamps
Wood glue
Measuring tape
Eye protection
Hearing protection

Shopping List:
4 - 2x6 @ 8
2- 4x4 @ 8
4- 2x4 @ 8
6- 1x2 @ 8 furring strips
1- 1x3 @ 8
1- plywood @ 4x8
1- plywood @ 2x2
2 wooden corbels, 2 deep x 6 high x 3 wide (Osborne Carpi Mission Corbel)
8 Hex Lag Screws, black or painted black
1 pocket hole screws
1 pocket hole screws
2 pocket hole screws
4 deck wood screws (to attach top)
1 nails, 18 gauge (or whatever matches your nailer)
2 flat hinges
Wood filler (Timber-Mate brand is the best, especially for the stained top, but a cheaper
brand can be used to fill gaps or holes on the body)
Ikea Fintorp rail with hooks
1 cup pull

Cut List:
4- 4x4 @ 34
4- 2x4 @ 41
2 - 2x4 @ 20
2- 2x4 @ 26
3- 2x4 @ 17
1- 2x4 @ 21 (support above center divider)
2- 2x4 @ 24
6- 2x6 (ripped down to ~5 widths) @ 50 (planked top)
6- 1x2 @ 24 (furring strips for shelf slats)
2- 1x3 @ 20
2- 1x3 @ 18
2- ply @ 14 x 11 (cut in half diagonally- trash door sides)
1- ply @ 17 x 26 (center divider)
1- ply @ 18 x 26 (back of trash compartment)
1- ply @ 20 x 23 (bottom of trash compartment
1- ply @ 29 x 23 (side of trash compartment)
1- ply @ 13 x 20 (door center)
1- ply @ 14 x 18 (bottom of trash door)

Step 1: Cut Notches out of 4x4s

Using a circular saw, set the depth to 1 . Mark one end of a 34 4x4 at 1 1/2 and
at 5 so that the width between the two marks is 3 . Carefully make several cuts
(about 1/16 - apart) between the two lines. Remove the wood slices between the
two lines by pushing on them, then take the wood chisel to smooth out the notched
cut-out. Repeat for all 4 legs.

Step 2: Build Side Frame

Drill 1 pocket holes into both ends of (lavender-colored) horizontal 2x4s of the
frame. Attach using 2 pocket hole screws and wood glue, one of the 41 lengths
flush to the top and outer side of two of the (pale green-colored) 4x4 legs. Attach the
other 41 length 3 from the bottom of the 34 4x4s (on the opposite side as the
notched cut-outs). The middle horizontal shelf frame should attached at 12 from
the bottom 41 2x4 (or 17 from the bottom of the 34 4x4). Once the horizontal
pieces are attached, attach the (peach-colored) vertical divider, making sure it
attaches 20 from one end and 18 from other other end (at top and bottom).
Step 3: Build Another Side Frame
Assemble and attach an identical side frame as in step 2.
Step 4: Attach Side Frames Together
Drill 1 pocket holes on both ends of all 4 of the 17 pieces of wood. Using wood
glue and 2 pocket hole screws, attach them at the top between the two side
frames that were constructed. Use wood glue only to attach the 24 bottom pieces
that will fit into the notched cut-outs of the legs. A mallet may be needed to get them
securely fit in. Let dry for 24 hours.

Step 5: Attach Bottom Center Support

To get a good fit, test-fit the 17 center support, making sure it slides in easily without
pounding. A small amount might need to be shaved off of the 17 center support.
Using 2 pocket hole screws and wood glue, attach the 17 bottom support at the
center mark between the two side frames with pocket holes facing down.
Step 6: Attach Center Divider Plywood
Note the cut measurements for the center divider plywood is slightly larger than the
measurements listed in image above. Some minor adjustment cuts will have to be
made so that this piece fits easily in between the two frames above the bottom center
support. Test-fit, mark how much needs to be shaved off and make the adjustments. I
had to cut almost off to get a proper fit, but yours may vary slightly. Drill pocket
holes on all sides of the divider and attach with 1 pocket hole screws and wood glue
centered above the bottom center support. If small gaps exist between the plywood
and the frames, dont worry, they can be filled with wood filler later.
Step 7: Attach Top Center Support
Using 2 pocket hole screws and wood glue attach the top center support above
the plywood divider, between the two side frames. Again, as with previous steps, test-
fit this piece first before attaching, and make necessary shavings to get a good fit. If
the pieces are too tight and too much effort is used to get them into place, it could
alter the way the two side frames sit and could make it unevenly rock slightly.
Step 8: Attach Back of Trash Storage
Dry-fit and make cut adjustments to back piece of plywood, drill pocket holes on
all sides and attach using 1 pocket hole screws and wood glue with inset on both
the inside and outside of the opening on the side frame.
Step 9: Attach Bottom of Trash Storage
Dry-fit, make cut adjustments, and drill pocket holes on all sides of the bottom
piece of plywood. Attach using 1 pocket holes and wood glue.
Step 10: Attach Side of Trash Storage
Using 1 nails with a cordless nailer, attach the side of the trash storage to the inside,
nailing into the top and bottom. OR, if you prefer a less-wide inset, you can cut down
this piece to 17 x 25 so it will fit inside the opening (making necessary
adjustments as with previous 3 steps), drill pocket holes, and attach with a inset
on the inside of the frame.

Step 11: Attach Shelf Slats

If staining the slats, you will need to stain all ends and sides of the slats first, and let
them dry completely. Then space the 24 slats approximately apart between the
two side frames to create shelves. There should be 12 slats used on each shelf.
Attach using wood glue and 1 nails with the cordless nailer gun.
Step 12: Build and Attach Plank Top
Assemble the planked top of the island by first ripping of of each side of the 2x6s.
This removes the rounded edges of the 2x6s, so they can fit together seamlessly.
Drill 1 pocket holes all along one length-side of 5 of the boards. Use clamps,
working on a flat surface, and attach one board at a time to each other using 2
pocket hole screws and wood glue. The overhang plank (the 6th board, not
represented in the above picture)) should have pocket holes,and the screws will go
into the adjacent board.
Position the planked top on the body of the island so that there is a 1 lip on all sides,
except the side opposite to the trash can opening, where the overhang will be 4 .
Clamp and pre-drill 3 evenly-spaced holes on all 4 sides of the planked top, and
attach with 4 long deck screws.
Attach corbels, centered on each leg, below the planked top under the 4
overhang, with wood glue and the 1- 4 deck screw (per corbel).
If minor lips appear on the planked top, dont worry, you can sand them completely
smooth and flat later with a belt sander.
Step 13: Build Pull-Out Trash Door
To build the door to the trash compartment, drill pocket holes on all 4 sides of the
plywood and attach the two pieces of 1x3 that are the same length as the two long
sides. Make sure the plywood is attached so that one side is flush and the other side
has a lip. You will need to put a piece of plywood down as a spacer, then the
plywood on top, then the 1x3s on either side, as you attach them using wood glue
and 1 pocket hole screws. Then attach the top and bottom pieces of 1x3 to complete
the door. For the sides of the door, drill pocket holes in the diagonally cut
plywood on the short side. Attach them to the backside of the door with
approximately lip on either side (so that the diagonal sides dont hit the frame of
the trash compartment), using wood glue and 1 pocket hole screws. Staple the
bottom piece of plywood into place using 1 nails.
Step 14: Attach Door to Island
Mark placement of the hinges on the inside of the frame of the trash compartment
and the bottom of the door. I placed mine about 3 inches from each side. Pre-drill
where marks are and attach the hinges to the door first, then to the frame of the trash
compartment. There should be about a inset from the frame to the edge of the
edge of the door.
Optional tips: You may need to nail in a small piece of wood (2 x 1) to the top inside
frame to keep the door from going in too far when the weight of the trash can (plus
contents) is inside. Depending on the size of trash can used, you may also need to
attach a chain to the sides of the door and the inside of the frame to keep it from
opening too far.
Step 15: Fill Holes, Stain/Paint & Attach Hardware
Fill nail holes, screw holes, wood knots and gaps with wood filler. If staining the shelf
slats, you will need to stain them BEFORE you attach them in step 11. I noticed a few
slightly (1/16) uneven lips on the planked top, so if this is the case, sand the entire
tip even with a belt sander (using the 80 grit sandpaper), then use an orbital sander
to smooth out the roughness with 150 grit sandpaper. Finally, sand entire island with
220 grit sandpaper to prepare for stain/paint. I used Benjamin Moore Aura Interior
Semi-Gloss paint in White Dove on the body, and Special Walnut stain by Minwax for
the top and the shelf slats. Seal the top with food-safe Waterlox original, making sure
to let it dry 24 hour between each coat (I used 2 coats-- keep in mind each
successive coat will be shinier).
Attach the Ikea Fintorp rail on one side, pre-drill and glue into place the bolts on the
legs, and attach the cup pull on the trash door.