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2015

Basic Climbing Course


Student Manual

Climb!

Olympia
Mountaineers
www.olympiamountaineers.org
Table of Contents
Key Dates 2
Introduction 3
Basic Field Trips Requirements 7

Lecture Supplements
The Club Standards 8
The Climbing Code 8
Helmets 9
Other Safety Considerations 9
Equipment 10
The Ten Essentials 10
Equipment Checklist 11
Critical Skills 12
Mountaineering Knots and Slings 15

Intro to Climbing Section


Basic Skills 16
Belay Practice 19
Snow Travel and Self Arrest 22

Glacier Section
Snow Camp 23
Glacier Travel 32

Rock Section
Rock Fundamentals 28
Rock I 29
Rock II 31
Glossary 34
Application for Graduation 37
Application for Extension 39
Stewardship Form 41

Cover photo: Sulfide Glacier Mt. Shuksin, photo by Andrew Monk

1
Key Dates
General Notes: Lectures start promptly at 6:30 PM unless otherwise specified
th
(Chapters referenced are from the text Freedom of the Hills 8 Edition)

INTRODUCTION TO CLIMBING SECTION


Section Leaders: TBD
Lecture Schedule
Date Subject Study Chapters
Feb. 17 Equipment, Knots, Belay and Rappel 5, 9, 10, 11
March 3 Belay Practice, Hands on 5, 9, 10, 11
March 17 Snow Travel 16, 17,

Field Trip Schedule


Date Alt. Date Field Trip Location Leader Phone
Feb. 21 Basic Skills TBD TBA
March 8 (Sunday) Belay Practice Priest Point Park TBA
March 21 March 22 Snow Travel Mt. Rainier NP TBA

GLACIER CLIMBING SECTION


Section Leader: TBD
Lecture Schedule
Date Subject Study Chapters
April 7 Introduction, glacier travel and hazards 16, 17, 22, 26, 27
June 2 Z-Pulley Workshop 17

Field Trip Schedule


Date Alt. Date Field Trip Location
April 12-13 April 11-12 Snow Weekend Mt. Rainier NP
June 6 Glacier Travel Mt. Rainier NP

ROCK CLIMBING SECTION


Section Leader: TBD
Lecture Schedule
Date Subject Study Chapters
April 21 Introduction, climbing techniques and anchors 11, 12, 13, App. A

Field Trip Schedule


Date Alt. Date Field Trip Location
April 27 Climbing Gym Warehouse Rock Gym
May 2 May 9 Rock Fundamentals Spire Rock- Spanaway
May 16-17 May 23-24 Rock I &II Rock Weekend McCleary Cliffs at Lake Cushman

June 9th Final Test

Basic Course Chair: Bob Keranen 360-340-1882 keranen@hcc.net


2
Introduction
Welcome to the Olympia Mountaineers Basic Climbing Course. Taking this course is a great way to learn
solid climbing fundamentals, meet new climbing partners, and find opportunities to climb some of the
area's most spectacular peaks. Students with some prior climbing experience typically learn new skills,
improve their prior skills, and become better rounded climbers.

The course is broken down into four sections. The first of the four sections is Wilderness Skills, which is
a prerequisite for the climbing and scrambling courses. It is expected that students entering Introduction
to Climbing would be recent graduates of Wilderness Skills or actively using the skills taught in that
course. The second section is Introduction to Climbing and is prerequisite for the final two sections, Rock
and Glacier climbing. Students are allowed two years to complete the course, although the course is
designed to be finished in one year. Application deadlines for graduation or extension into a second year
are due on October 1st. Graduation requirements include completing all field trips, lectures, experience
climbs, Mountaineering Oriented First Aid (MOFA), a conservation project, a final exam, and approval
from the Climbing Committee.

Upon completion of a section a student can participate in the following climb types:

Introduction to Climbing: Completion of this section allows students to participate on Conditioners


and Alpine climbs. Leader permission is required for Alpine Climbs. More, information about the types
of climbs is given below.
Basic Rock Section: Completion of this section allows students to participate on Conditioners, Alpine,
and Rock climbs.
Basic Glacier Completion of this section allows students to participate on Conditioners, Alpine, and
Glacier climbs.

Experience Climbs
To graduate from the Basic Climbing Course students must successfully complete at least four basic
experience climbs, including one Conditioner, one Glacier, one Rock, and the fourth climb could be an
Alpine, Rock or Glacier climb. The Conditioner must be done before any other climbs. More about the
types of climbs is given below.

About the Climbs


All of the Mountaineer Basic Experience Climbs are done "Alpine Style", which means carrying
everything you need to climb a peak. Alpine style climbers must share the work of carrying all the group
gear and carry their own personal gear. Some climbs have approaches that take one hour, and others
approaches might take all day or multiple days to travel into remote wilderness areas.
Students are required to complete a minimum of four Mountaineer's basic experience climbs to qualify for
graduation. Feel free to participate on more than the minimum number of climbs you are qualified to do.
Basic Experience Climbs are divided into four categories, which broadly describe the nature of the
technical challenges. The four categories include: Conditioner, Alpine, Rock, and Glacier.

3
Climb Categories
Conditioner (C)
Conditioners are typically non-technical routes that are climbed for fun, exercise, testing equipment, and
as training for more technically challenging routes. All students are required to do at least one
conditioner before any of the other climbs. Again, feel free to do more than one, since there are several
excellent mountains to climb that are rated as Conditioners.
Basic Alpine (A)
Alpine climbs are a mixed bag with a lot of variety. Alpine climbs sometimes offer a short section of
roped glacier or roped rock climbing, but not enough to qualify as a glacier or rock climb. Usually Alpine
climbs consist of long sections of steep snow and sections of 3rd class unroped scrambling. Do not assume
that alpine climbs are easier or safer than basic rock or glacier climbs. Many Alpine climbs rival the
longer glacier climbs for strenuousness, and unroped scrambling can present risks not found on many
roped rock climbs.

NOTE: Students should request leader permission to participate on Alpine climbs if they have not
completed the entire basic climbing course. Students should discuss the climb with the leader to make
certain their skills and their level of conditioning match the climb leader's expectations. For example, a
climb leader might expect traveling light and fast over exposed rock while unroped. Other alpine climbs
might require rappelling that is taught in the Rock Section or glacier travel and camping on snow that is
taught in the Glacier Section.

Basic Rock Climbs (R)


Basic Rock Climbs typically have between two to six pitches of roped rock climbing at a relatively low
technical level, from exposed 4th class to class 5.5. The most common and generally most serious hazard
on Basic Rock climbs is rock fall. It should be taken seriously at all times. Due diligence and caution by
all party members should reduce rock fall potential to a reasonable level of risk.

Glacier Climbs (G)


Glacier climbs are long, strenuous climbs on the higher glaciated peaks in the Northwest. They are
typically overnight or multi-day trips, may include camping on snow, and often require a pre-dawn start
from a high camp followed by several hours of glacier travel.

Management of physical requirements such as food, clothing, and water tend to be most problematic on
glacier climbs. After unfavorable weather conditions, the most common causes for aborting a glacier
climb are party members who fail to carry or drink enough water and become dehydrated; or become
severely sunburned or snow-blinded; or succumb to altitude sickness.

The risk of a serious crevasse accident is minimal if the party is well equipped, well trained, and attentive.
How-ever, the complacency that often sets in after hours of slogging up a glacier can increase danger.
Party members should keep ropes extended and hold their ice axes ready for arrest.

Rating Systems
Learning and understanding the various rating systems allows the climber to match their skills and desired
level of challenge against the relative difficulty of a climb.

4
Climb Categories
S/S: Seriousness and Strenuousness
Some of the Mountaineer climb listings may present a rating that looks like a fraction, for example: 2/3.
The scale is from 1 to 5, with 1being easiest and 5 being the hardest. The first number, seriousness, refers
to the technical difficulty, exposure, and commitment of a climb. The second number, strenuousness,
refers to the physical demands and level of conditioning required.

Grades I - V
In this rating system the overall difficulty of a route is represented by a Roman numeral from I through V,
with Grade I being easiest and Grade V being most difficult. This rating takes many factors into account
including: length in both time and distance, average difficulty of individual pitches, expected hazards,
level of commitment and the ability to escape.

Classes 1 - 5
Never applied to the entire climb, this rating, known as the "Class;' indicates the severity of the most
difficult pitch on the route. These numbers are loosely defined as follows:
Walking
Easy scrambling, some use of hands may be required
Scrambling, usually unroped and potentially exposed
Difficult scrambling, exposure may require roped climbing for safety
Technical climbing requiring placement of protection for safety

Class 5 rock climbing is further divided into decimals to better define the difficulty of the pitch, ranging
from to 5.10, and up to 5.13 for more extreme climbing. Most basic rock climbs range from Class 5.0 to
5.5.

Safety

We climb because we enjoy the sport and intend to have fun during our trips into the mountains. But,
never forget that climbing is a dangerous sport with serious risks. So please, no goofing around with
safety. Unsafe behavior cannot be tolerated in a class of this nature. So just as a solid belay anchor
includes backups and redundancy, the theme of safety will be reemphasized often throughout this course.

5
Summary of Sections and Skills Learned
Introduction to Climbing Section
Mountaineers membership required
Prerequisites:
Wilderness Skills Course; OR Scrambling Graduate and be an active participant in alpine scrambling in
good standing with the club.
Attendance at all lectures and field trips is required. The first two field trips must be taken with the
Olympia Branch. Snow 1 field trip, or equivalent, may be made up with another club branch if permission
from that branch is obtained and the dates fit the Olympia Basic Course schedule

This section will teach:


Climbing equipment, including: harness, rope, belay devices, and ice axe.
Knots
Belay Techniques, including: sitting hip belay, belaying with a device and Munter hitch, standing
carabiner and boot axe belays, communication and voice commands.
Rope management and coiling.
Traveling along a fixed line
Rappelling is introduced in this Section, but taught with more emphasis in the Rock Section.
Because many alpine style climbs require a snow approach this Section includes snow travel, ice axe
use, self-arrests, self belay, glissade, and snow anchors.

Rock Section
Prerequisites: Introduction to Climbing Section

Attendance at all lectures and field trips is required. The first field trip in the Warehouse Rock Gym must
be taken with the Olympia Branch, but the other field trips may be made up with other club branches. *

This section will teach:


Rock climbing techniques and moving safely on rock.
Rappelling with device and carabineer brake
Knots, anchors, and more practice belaying

Glacier Section
Prerequisites: Introduction to Climbing Section
Attendance at all lectures and field trips is required. Field trips may be made up with other club branches. *
This section will teach:
More practice with self-arrests and snow belays.
Camping on snow
High altitude climbing
Glacier travel and recognizing glacier hazards
Crevasse rescue and Z pulley setup

* If permission from that branch is obtained and the dates fit the Olympia Basic Course schedule. Make up
field trips may not be possible.

6
Basic Field Trips Requirements
The field trips are conducted to give you the opportunity Be on time. Have yourself and your gear ready at the
to practice techniques you've learned from the lectures designated time. Students arriving late may not be
and the text. These are accepted mountaineering allowed to participate.
techniques and will be used on any climb scheduled by Please be cautious. There is always a certain degree of
the Mountaineers. risk in any mountaineering practice or climb. Pay
attention and follow your instructor's advice. Your safety
Attendance and participation in the field trips are and enjoyment depend on your cooperation.
mandatory. The field trips are scheduled in a sequence Do not litter any of the practice or climbing areas. Carry
that will prepare you for field trips and climbs. The out everything you carry in.
sequence is planned to provide you with the knowledge Follow the instructions given. The techniques and
of necessary climbing techniques prior to the time the information taught on these field trips are accepted
techniques are actually needed. This is intended to mountaineering techniques. There maybe more than one
provide all participants with a margin of safety in all way to do some things, but the techniques you will learn
practice and climbing situations. has been standardized for consistent instruction and
safety.
You must complete the Basic Techniques and Belay Be courteous. The instructors on these field trips are
Practice field trips with the Olympia Branch. No fellow Mountaineers who are volunteering their time to
Exceptions. teach during these practices. Listen to their advice.
You must also: Bring the equipment required for each practice. The
needed equipment for each field trip is listed on page 7
Complete the Basic Techniques field trip prior in this manual. Club ropes will be used on all field trips.
the Belay Practice field trip. Mark all your equipment with name or initials that will
Complete the Belay Practice field trip prior to stand up to abrasion and moisture.
Snow Travel & Self Arrest and Rock Wool clothing, pile, or polypropylene must be worn or
Fundamentals field trips. carried in the pack for Belay Practice and Rock field
Complete Snow Travel & Self Arrest prior to trips. Wool clothing, pile, or polypropylene must be
Snow camp field trip. worn at Snow Travel & Self Arrest, Snow Camp and
Complete Rock Fundamentals prior to Rock 1 Glacier Travel field trips. It is also mandatory for all
field trip. Basic snow climbs and for all glacier travel.
Complete Rock 1 field trip prior to Rock 2 field Follow the club standards.
trip. No one should leave the practice site for home until
Complete Snow Travel &Self Arrest and Snow dismissed by the leader.
Camp prior to Glacier Travel field trip. Each student must have his or her own individual
equipment and lunch. Relatives and close friends will
Prior to participating in a field trip students must be separated on practices.
attend the lecture(s) relevant to that field trip.
You must sign up for the field trips at the lecture which
immediately precedes any trip.

Basic Experience Climbs Requirements To Get Basic Experience Climbs Credit


Basic students must complete all lectures through rock Only those Basic Experience climbs approved by the
climbing and all field trips through Rock2 prior to Climbing Committee and those Basic Experience climbs
participating in rock climbs. listed in The "Go Guide" by other Mountaineer basic
climbing courses may be used for Basic Experience climb
Basic students must complete all lectures through Snow and credit.
Glacier Travel and all field trips through Glacier Travel
prior to participating in glacier climbs. The summit must be reached on basic alpine, rock and
glacier climbs by the individual climber and the entire climb
must be completed in a safe and competent manner to
receive credit.

7
The Club Standards
All members of the Mountaineers, in order to attain the To abstain from using alcohol and other drugs
Club purposes, "To explore and study the mountains, or medications on Club activities and premises
forests and water courses of the Northwest and beyond" in which such use would affect the safety of
in a spirit of good fellowship, shall subscribe to the the party or impair the collective participation
following standards: and enjoyment of others.
Do not bring pets, firearms, or any other
To exercise personal responsibility and to item(s) that will impair the safety or
conduct themselves on Club activities and enjoyment of others on Mountaineer premises
premises in a manner that will not impair the or on Club activities.
safety of the party, or prevent the collective To obey all applicable specific regulations of
participation and enjoyment of others. governmental agencies which affect
To respect private property. Mountaineer activities and property.
To enter the "outdoors" as a visitor, leaving To obey those specific regulations imposed by
behind no debris, environmental scars, or other the Board of Trustees, Branches and Divisions
indications of their visit which would reduce the of The Mountaineers, which are necessary to
enjoyment of those who follow. implement the above.
To minimize the environmental impact on the
outdoors by using campfires only in properly Those Mountaineers who deviate from this philosophy
designated areas and extinguishing completely and from the specific Club regulations may be subject
after use; conducting human sanitation and to the disciplinary procedures of the Club, including
washing away from watercourses; and carrying expulsion.
out all solid waste brought into the out-doors.

The Climbing Code


A climbing party of three is the minimum, Never let judgment be overruled by desire
unless adequate prearranged support is when choosing the route or turning back.
available. On glaciers a minimum of two rope Follow the precepts of sound mountaineering
teams is recommended. as set forth in textbooks of recognized merit.
Leave the trip schedule with a responsible per- Behave at all times in a manner that will
son. reflect favorably upon mountaineering, with
Carry at all times the clothing, food and minimum impact to the environment.
equipment necessary.
Keep the party together and obey the leader or The Climbing Code is a standard of judgment based on
majority rule. many years of mountaineering experience. In risky or
Rope up on all exposed places and for all doubtful situations it increases the margin for safety
glacier travel. Anchor all belays. and success. It is a guide for both veteran and novice
Never climb beyond your ability and alike; the key to safe and sane climbing.
knowledge. Follow it religiously until its precepts become second
nature.

8
Helmets Conditioning
Mountain climbing is an inherently dangerous activity, Students will benefit themselves and their classmates by
you must be aware of that. Some of the hazards are starting or continuing a conditioning program. If you are
beyond your control, like naturally falling ice or rock. not in condition, you will fatigue easily after a short
You and your climbing partners can reduce other period of exercise, and you will be susceptible to muscle
hazards. cramps, stiffness and soreness in following days. As you
reach the point of exhaustion, you can become too tired
One of the greatest risks as a climber is suffering a to concentrate on route finding and technical skills. In
serious or fatal head injury from falling rock, ice or other short, a supposedly enjoyable outing becomes a painful
objects or from striking your head while falling yourself. ordeal with increasing risks to both you and other party
A quality safety helmet may well save your life, but only members.
if it is worn.
Aerobic power is what is needed to maintain the level of
While participating in this course you will be required to energy needed for mountaineering. Only if one regularly
wear a UIAA approved helmet. But anytime you climb, participates in a strenuous physical activity such as jogging,
you should personally consider wearing a helmet if you swimming, bicycling or hiking, can your aerobic power be
would be exposed to head injury. Don't be swayed by increased. The activity should be prolonged enough to
careless decisions of others: It's your head! produce a sweat and induce mild breathlessness for at least
30 minutes at a time.
Many of the other risks associated with climbing can also
be minimized by your personal choices and actions. The
primary responsibility for your safety is always your
own.

Other Safety Considerations


The popularity of hiking, backpacking, backcountry skiing, and climbing grows each year. Competition
for space and solitude increases. Soil, plant, water, wildlife, and scenery bear the brunt of the seasonal
onslaught of backcountry users. Litter, pollution, erosion, and noise increasingly scar the wilderness we
seek to enjoy.

When we step from the car and onto the trail, the protective asphalt is left behind us. Our attitude and
actions must change to conform to the fragile surroundings. We are obligated, as users, to help sustain the
illusion of solitude and the illusion of being first.

Most of us are sensitive to the obvious-no littering, no polluting, no tree or trail cutting. The land,
however, demands more of us. We must learn how to minimize our impacts even more. We might have to
work at it a bit, but only until it becomes second nature, just like taking the right equipment.
Learn, practice, and teach the following principles:
Plan ahead and prepare
Camp and travel on durable surfaces
Pack it in, pack it out
Properly dispose of what you can't pack out
Leave what you find
Minimize use and impact of fires
For rock climbing: minimize climbing impacts, too.

9
Equipment
The cost of equipping yourself depends on how much Many items cannot be improvised. For example,
gear you have accumulated in prior outdoors activities regular sunglasses are no substitute for glacier glasses
(climbing, backpacking, hiking, and skiing), your and ski pants are no substitute for wool or fleece pants.
abilities in crafting, improvising or bargain hunting, An approved climbing helmet is required on all rock
and your tastes. Some items can be rented or borrowed climbs and many alpine and glacier climbs. Bicycle and
until your interest is certain and your funds are construction helmets are not acceptable. Your compass
available. However many items will need to be bought must have these features: rotating bezel, parallel
eventually, and these will be the major expense of this straight edges, adjustable declination and a clear base.
class for most students. Sunscreen should have a sun protection factor of at
least 8, and for those with sensitive skin or planning
Some clothing items can be bought at the Good Will climbs above 8000: a stronger lotion is desirable.
and Salvation Army Thrift Stores with persistence and
luck. Army Surplus Stores also provide bargains at The equipment checklist tells what is needed for each
times. For those willing to spend the bucks, there are trip.
many outdoor recreation stores to cater to your
comfort and style and you will soon find that there is
no upper limit to what you can spend to equip
yourself.

The Ten Essentials


1. Navigation
2. Sun Protection
3. Insulation (Extra Clothing)
4. Illumination
5. First Aid Supplies
6. Fire
7. Repair Kit and Tools
8. Nutrition (Extra Food)
9. Hydration (Extra Water)
10. Emergency Shelter

Sources of Climbing and Camping Equipment


Recreational Equipment Ine. North Face Big5 Sporting Goods All Washington topo maps are available
625 Black Lake Blvd SW, Suite 410 1023 1st Avenue 1001Cooper Point Rd. at Dept. of Natural Resources, Maps and
Olympia, WA 98502 Seattle, WA 206-622-4111 Olympia, WA 360-786-6529 Surveys Office, 902-1234.
360-786-1938 Many of the sources listed have some
Patagonia Seattle rental equipment; however, in general,
Wilderness Sports
2100 First Avenue the equipment is limited in quantity.
Marmot Mountain Works 14340 NE 20th
Seattle, WA 206-622-9700 Rent early to be sure of getting what
827 Bellevue Way NE Bellevue, WA 425-746-0500
you want. You may not be satisfied long
Bellevue, WA 425-453-1515 with renting, primarily because of the
Mt. Constance Mtn. Shop
1500 NE Riddel Rd. Eddie Bauer, Ine. inconvenience and/or unavailability of
Bremerton, WA 360-377-0668 5th & Union rental equipment.
Warehouse Rock Gym
Seattle, WA 206-622-2766
315 Jefferson Street Northeast Feathered Friends
Olympia, WA 98501 119 Yale Avenue N. For additional sources, see yellow pages
360-596-9255 Seattle, WA 206-292-2210 under Camping Equipment, Skiing
Equipment, Mountain Climbing Equipment
and Sporting Goods.

10
EQUPMENT CHECK LIST

Rock Section
Snow Travel

Snow Camp

Conditioner
Basic Skills

Rock Fund.
Rock I & II
Rock Gym
Climbing

Z-Pulley
Practice
Intro to

Climbs
Section
Glacier

Glacier

Glacier
Alpine
Travel
Belay

Rock
Ten Essentials (every time, all the time) R R R R R R R R R R R R R
Clothing
Fleece* Pants - S R R** - R - R R R R R R
Fleece* Sweaters or pile jackets (1 or 2) - S R R** - R - R R R R R R
Fleece* hat, ear covers - S R R - R - R R R R R R
Fleece* socks (2 pair) - S R R - R - R R R R R R
Gloves; preferably Fleece* - R R R - R - R R R R R R
Cover mittens; waterproof/windproof - O R R - R - O O S S R S
Climb boots lug soles - R R R - R - R R R R R R
Gaitors; extends to below the knee - O R R - R - O O L R R L
Rain Gear; coat and pants - R R R - R - R R R R R R
Wind parka - O O O - O - O O O O O O
Heavy parka - O O O - O - O O O O L O
Long underwear; synthetic or wool - S R R - R - S S S R R S
Technical Gear
Carabiners; 6 standard, 3 locking (2 small) R R R R R R R R R L L R R
Climbing Helmet, UIAA approved - R R R - R - R R L L L R
Rescue Pulley - - - - R R - - - L L R R
Crampons - - - R - R - - - L L R L
Ice Axe - R R R R R - - - L R R L
Leather Belay Gloves rough cowhide R R R R R R R R R L L R R
Climbing rope; 9 or 11 mm - - - - - - - - - - - O O
Texas Prusiks (provided by the Olympia Branch) - R - R R R - O O - L R L
Additional prusiks R R - S R R - R R O S R R
Harness R R R R R R R R R L L R R
Chest Sling R R R R R R - R R L L R R
Additional slings R R R R R R - R R L R R R
Belay / Rappel Device R R R R R R R R R - L L R
Snow Wands (6) - - - R - R - - - - L R -
Rock Shoes - - - - - - O - O - - - L
Travel Gear
Snow Shoes (Rent or buy) - - L L - - - - - L L L L
Ski or Trekking Poles - - S S - - - - - S S S S
Overnight Gear
Sleeping Bag Synthetic or down - - - R - - - - S L L L L
Insulation Pad - S S R - S - S S L L L L
Backpacking stove - - - A - - - - S L L L L
Fuel Bottle - - - A - - - - S L L L L
Cooking pot - - - A - - - - S L L L L
Eating utensils - - - R - - - - S L L L L
Tent or bivouac sack - - - A - - - - S L L L L
Large pack 40 pound capacity - - - R - - - - - L L L L
Other Items
Day Pack 15 pound capacity*** R R R O - R - R R R R R R
Water bottle; 1 quart (2 quarts in summer) - R R R - R - R R R R R R
Sunscreen; SPF 10 or better - R R R - R - R R R R R R
Food or snacks/meals (10 essentials) S R R R - R - R R R R R R
Snow Shovel - - - A - - - - - - L L L
Plastic Tarp - - - S - - - - - - L L -
* Acceptable alternatives include pile or wool.
** 2 pair of fleece* pants and 2 fleece* shirts are required for Snow Camp field trip.
*** A large overnight pack can be substituted for a day pack.
R: Required; S: Suggested; 0: Optional; A: One for every other student; L: Leader may require on some climbs.

11
CRITICAL SKILLS
Mountaineering is a sport of controlled risk. As As soon as you know you need help or extra practice,
mountaineers we face both objective dangers in the contact your mentor. That's what mentors are for. They
mountain world and subjective factors that are expect to be called. Your mentor will work out an
dependent on the climber. Although we can't change arrangement with you to meet the requirements on the
objective hazards, such as bad weather, we have attached Critical Skills chart.
considerable control over subjective factors:
Your mentor will then call the Critical Skills
Coordinator and "OK" you for the next field trip, climb
A CLIMBER'S KNOWLEDGE, SKILL AND or other course related-activity. The Coordinator will
JUDGMENT then note the "OK" in your field trip record book.
This section focuses on the skill element. The climbing Without this "OK you may not be able to continue to
committee has identified "Critical Skills" that are the next field trip (see chart). It would also be a good
extremely important to you and your climbing partner's idea for you to contact the Critical Skills Coordinator
safety. If you're not proficient (able to perform the skill to make sure everything has been cleared for you to
properly without help from your instructor) at these continue.
skills at a particular point in the course, we feel the Example:
risk of serious injury or death is too great for you or
your climbing partners. Let's say you are having a day when nothing is going
right. It's Snow Travel field trip, and your instructor
A critical skill has a "what" and a "when" component. feels you don't have the sitting hip belay down as well
We've identified 3 "what" areas: as you should (and you even belayed perfectly on the
previous field trips). The chart says you must show
Belays proficiency with your belay technique by the next field
Ice axe arrests trip and before a climb. Give your mentor a call to
schedule time to get together.
Knots
If you have a Mt. Snoqualmie climb scheduled, you
We've also identified when you must show proficiency
have to demonstrate proficiency before you can go on
of the skills. They are critical on all climbs. The field
the climb.
trips at which you must show proficiency are listed on
the attached chart. They are also marked in your field And remember, this is all about "critical skills': You
trip record books. can also call your mentor or any member of the
climbing committee about anything. If you want help
So. . . . . . .what happens if your instructor is not on something other than a critical skill, we're here for
comfortable with your skill level of a critical skill after that too.
a particular field trip or climb? Your instructor/leader
will make a note in your field trip record book or climb
report. You will see your record book after each field
trip.

IT'S YOUR RESPONSIBILITY FROM HERE.

A WORD ABOUT YOUR MENTOR....


We all need a little help once in a while, so all students are assigned a mentor. Mentors are volunteers who have
passed the course and give their time to help students work through areas of difficulty. Please call them if you need
help with any area of instruction or if you just want extra practice. In the event you and your mentor cannot
schedule a time to meet, or if you just can't "get it" the way s/he teaches it, call the mentor coordinator to make other
arrangements.

12
CRITICAL SKILLS
WHAT HAPPENS IF . . . . . .

Field Trip Critical Skill What To Do if Not Proficient:


(All skills must be demonstrated to the satisfaction of your mentor
and the Climbing Committee)
Knots Must demonstrate proficiency before next field trip and before any climb.

Belay Practice Belaying, all aspects Must show proficiency before next field trip. Must show proficiency before
Intro to Climbing

(Device and Munter Rock Fundamentals field trip and before any Alpine, Rock or Glacier climb.
hitch)

Arrests Must demonstrate proficiency before any climb on snow (must see mentor
if scheduled for a climb on snow prior to Snow Camp; otherwise can
demonstrate proficiency with instructor at Snow Camp).
Snow Travel & Self
Arrest Sitting Hip Belay Must show proficiency before next field trip. Must show proficiency before
Rock Fundamentals field trip and before any Alpine, Rock or Glacier climb.

Knots Must demonstrate proficiency before next field trip and before any climb.
Arrests and Team Arrests Must demonstrate proficiency before Glacier Travel field trip and before any
climb.

Snow Camp Knots Must demonstrate proficiency before next field trip and before any climb.
Glacier Section

Standing Carabiner-Ice Must demonstrate proficiency before Glacier Travel field trip and before any
Axe and Boot Axe Belay climb.

Sitting Hip Belay Must demonstrate proficiency before Rock Fundamentals field trip and
before any climb.

Knots Must
any demonstrate proficiency before any climb.
climb

Glacier Travel Belays Must show proficiency before any climb. Cannot participate in any climb
without safe belaying skills.

Arrests Must demonstrate proficiency before any climb.


Knots Must demonstrate proficiency before next field trip and before any climb.
Rock Fund
Belaying Must show proficiency before next field trip. Cannot participate in Rock I
field trip or any climb without safe belaying skills.
Rock Section

Knots Must demonstrate proficiency before next field trip and before any climb.
Rock I
Belaying Must show proficiency before next field trip. Cannot participate in Rock II
field trip or any climb without safe belaying skills.
Rock II Knots Must demonstrate proficiency before next field trip and before any climb.
Belaying Must show proficiency before next field trip. Cannot participate in
field trip or any climb without safe belaying skills.
Any Climb Knots, Belays and Must demonstrate proficiency before next field trip and before next climb.
Arrests

13
CRITICAL SKILLS
Critical Skills Problem on Critical Skills Problem on
Climb Field Trip

Leader Confers with Field Trip


student Leader/Instructor confers
with student

Leader Contacts Critical Student Contacts Leader/Instructor contacts


Skills Coordinator Mentor Critical Skills Coordinator

More Practice/Help

Student Demonstrates Continued Problem with


Critical Skills Critical Skills

Mentor Contacts Critical Student is Unable to Perform


Skills Coordinator Critical Skill Satisfactorily

Critical Skills Coordinator OKs Student is Dropped from


next Field Trip or climb course.

Critical Skills Coordinator: Richard Irwin 360-580-8694 rirwin@mybivey.com

14
MOUNTAINEERING KNOTS AND SLINGS
Knot craft is the first critical skill you will be learning, and it's a skill you must begin learning
immediately. Knots are the technical climber's safety net-our critical backup. There are 12 knots used to
fulfill a variety of purposes, which you must become absolutely confident with:
1. Single bowline (for anchors)
2. Double bowline (use as a center-person knot)
3. Water knot (for permanent knot in slings or runners)
4. Figure eight loop (clip into carabiners)
5. Figure eight rewoven (for direct tie into your harness)
6. Grapevine or double fisherman (tying two ropes together)
7. Bachman (for Z-pulley in crevasse rescue)
8. Prusik (for ascending rope or rappel backup)
9. Munter hitch (emergency belay or rappel)
10. Girth hitch (tying into anchor)
11. Clove hitch (tying into anchor)
12. Mule knot (used in leader tie off)
In addition to learning how to tie these knots, gain an understanding of the circumstances under which
each knot is used. Practice tying the knots every day with a piece of six foot rope or perlon. You will be
expected to tie them under the close scrutiny of your instructor or mentor. Do them over and over again-
even try tying them with your eyes closed. Review each knot prior to every field trip so time isn't wasted
relearning a technique and potentially delaying your progress or your field trip group.
Runners or slings are loops made from 5 to 6 feet of one inch tubular nylon webbing using a water knot.
They are used extensively in anchoring belays. Be sure to set the water knot joining the webbing together
before you have to trust it.
Most knots used in mountaineering tend to loosen under normal use. Therefore, you should leave
sufficient tail-about two inches or more, so that you can tie off loose ends with an overhand knot. Two
habits to get into:

Conduct a safety check-once knots are tied, check each others' knots before moving.
Get in the practice of rechecking your knots frequently-and your partner's.
The knot must also be "dressed" correctly; that is, the rope or webbing used is correctly positioned so the
knot material lies cleanly and in correct position in relation to the other strands in the knot. This is
extremely important for the Prusik and water knot.

Freedom of the Hills covers all of these knots.

15
Notes

16
Basic Skills (Intro to Climbing)
DATE: See field trip schedule
TIME: To be announced (TBA)
DURATION: Approximately 7 hours
PLACE: TBA
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED: See Equipment Checklist plus: USGS Mount Rainier National Park (MRNP) map,
1 webbing and 5-6mm perlon on Equipment list Handout, Prusik material for Texas
Prusiks will be provided; Lunch and liquid
REVIEW: Chapters 1, 2, 4, 5, 9 and 10

This is the first of several field trips in which you will put into Climber: "Climbing" Can he climb?
practice what you have learned from the text and course lectures. Belayer: "Climb" Acknowledges climber; yes, he can.
Here you will demonstrate your ability to tie knots and be taught Climber: "Up Rope" Belayer takes up extra slack.
fundamental sling and rope handling techniques, belaying Climber: "That's Me" Belayer stops taking up slack.
principles, and map and compass use.
Climber: "Falling!" Belayer instantly goes into arrest.
Know your knots before this field trip. Climber: "Slack" Belayer doles out about 6 inches. If climber
This is an indoor practice so dress accordingly. Lunch will be needs more, he repeats the command.
taken at a time convenient, there is no general break. Climber: "Tension" Belayer takes up as much slack as he can
Field trip stations will include: and then goes into arrest.
Climber: "Off Belay" Spoken only after climber has clipped
1. Knot Demonstration into an anchor or is in a secure position.
You will demonstrate your ability to tie the following: Belayer: "Belay Off" Spoken~ after climber has been
securely anchored or is in a secure position.
1. single bowline 7. Prusik The use of names with climbing signals is a useful practice when
2. double bowline 8. figure eight rewoven climbing in a crowded area.
3. Mule (leader tie off) 9. figure eight loop
4. Bachman 10. water knot Much time is wasted on climbs by those who cannot tie in
5. clove hitch 11. grapevine (dbl. fisherman) quickly and correctly. You must have your knots and roping up
6. Munter hitch 12. girth hitch techniques mastered by the next field trip.

2. Harnesses What is a belay? How do you set it up? How is it done? All will
be taught at the belay station. You will get more out of this
a. Approval of commercial harness station if you review Chapter 10 before the field trip.
b. Emergency alternative (refer to Chapter 9 page 149)
c. Chest harness 5. Rope Coiling
Learn mountaineer coil and butterfly coil as shown in
3. Prusik Freedom of the Hills.
Use of the Prusik knot and Prusik slings will be demonstrated by
an instructor. (Chapter 17 p379-380) 6. Map and Compass
4. Belaying and Roping up The first steps in becoming comfortable with your compass and
topographical map will be taken here, under direction of the field
The rope is your safety line. You will learn the proper use and
trip leader and instructors. Study your notes taken during the
care of it. The standard climbing signals will be introduced; these
navigation lecture and your text.
will be used throughout this course and your climbing days:
Study the signals plus what they mean and where they're used 7. Ten Essentials
(Chapter 110 page 183).
The ten essentials are essential to assuring an adequate margin of
safety. Each year climbers experience or encounter delays or
Climber: "On Belay" Signifies he's ready to climb i.e., tied in mishaps that require equipment or provisions beyond the normal
and at the start of the pitch. requirements of the climb. Your ten essentials will be criticized
Belayer: "Belay On" Signifies he's ready to belay i.e.,gloves by an experienced mountaineer. Consider his or her advice care-
on, 'biners in place, anchor secure, in belay stance. fully; your life may some day depend on it.
Climber: "Test Belay"
Belayer: "Test Belay"

17
BELAYING WITH BELAY DEVICES
The belayer should connect to the main
anchor with the climbing rope by taking a
length of rope directly from their harness and
making a clove hitch and clipping it into the
main anchor with a locking carabiner.

When sitting and facing the direction of fall,


take the climbing rope closest to the climber
and make a bight in the rope and insert it
thru the aperture in the metal plate, and clip
it into the locking carabiner on the front of
your harness. If the belay device has a safety
loop attached, clip the carabiner to it too.

BELAY DEVICE SETUP


When using a figure 8, it is recommended that you clip two carabiners to the large loop to prevent the device from
sliding away. Some figure 8s are not designed to be used as belay devices. The only ones recommended by the
manufacturers for belaying are: SMC Straight 8, Wild Country Super 8, CLOG Cosmic Arrester. When used as a
belay device, the anchor tie-in should be on the side of your braking hand. This will reduce the twisting motion
when holding a fall.

When arresting, the brake hand moves away from the device, towards the hip on the same side as the braking hand.
(See Chapter 10 p159-163) Belay devices must be attached to the belayer and not directly to the anchor. Be certain
there is minimal slack between your anchor and your belay position, otherwise unwanted movement may occur
when holding a fall.
RAPPEL DEVICES SETUPS
The setup and rope handling with the
tuber is the same as the belaying
technique. With the figure 8, a bight
of rope is brought thru the large hole
and placed around the backside of the
small hole. The locking carabiner
keeps the rope from slipping off.

Rappelling with a stitch plate or other


like device is not recommended.

18
Texas Prusik System
Prusik slings are to be carried on all glacier climbs. They allow you
to rescue yourself should you fall into a crevasse. It consists of two
parts:
1. A sling made of 45 to 55 inches of 6mm cord. This
sling attaches to the climbing rope with a Prusik knot.
The other end is clipped into the locking carabiner on
the seat harness.
2. Cord, 130"to 140" long, with loops for the feet at each
end. The middle of this strand is tied with a figure
eight, with a bight 6" inches long. This 6" bight will
attach to the climbing rope with a Prusik knot between
the Prusik of the short sling and the locking carabiner.
The foot loops are tied with an overhand knot on a
bight. To make a cinching loop, just feed the main cord
through the loop making a girth hitch. (The cord
lengths are approximate, the slings will be tailored to
your height; however, after using, you may wish to
make further adjustments.) For added stability while
using the slings, they may be wrapped around your leg
before slipping them over your boot.
(Ref. Ch 17 p379-381)
The foot ends are generally carried in the climber's pocket
until they are needed.

Chest Harness
A chest harness (or sling) is also part of your crevasse
rescue gear. It is used to hold the climber upright while
ascending the rope. Chest harnesses made from webbing are
the most comfortable. The webbing should fit tightly over
your normal outer climbing clothes.
The carabiner connecting the harness together in front
should be positioned with the gate facing out. In use (while
prusiking), the long Prusik sling and the climbing rope are
clipped into this carabiner. This allows the climber to have
both hands free to work the Prusik knots.

Emergency Seat Harness


The Climbing Committee recommends that you use an appropriate commercial seat harness on all field trips and experience
climbs. However, a situation may arise where a person needs a harness to climb or rappel but has no commercial harness with
them. In this case, a diaper sling may be rigged using a double-length runner or two single runners tied together with water
knots. One such harness is illustrated below.
Starting with the loop behind the back, one end is pulled to the front from each side and a third end from between the legs. The
three loops are clipped together in front with a locking carabiner or two opposing regular carabiners. The harness can be
snugged up by adjusting a water knot.
Some safety considerations when using an emergency seat
harness:
Never rappel or climb using a simple waist-loop as a
harness. Hanging by a waist loop will result in
constriction of the diaphragm, an inability to breathe, and
unconsciousness.
Make sure the water knots are tied correctly with enough
tail to prevent untying under the stress of a fall or rappel.
Make sure that all three loops are clipped together by the
carabiner(s).

19
Belay Practice (Intro to Climbing)
DATE: See field trip schedule
TIME: TBA
DURATION: All day - Approximately 10hours
PLACE: Priest Point Park, Olympia
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED: See Equipment Checklist
Lunch and liquid
REVIEW: Chapters 2, 5, 9, 10, 11, Ch 16 (p349-351), Ch 17 (p379-381, p394-396)
Be sure your slings are tied and ready before the practice begins to avoid unnecessary delays for you and other students.

Throughout the day, you will use the knots and techniques taught on your first field trip.

Practice at home.
Know your knots!
Critical Skills for Field Trips are Boxed
8. Standing Carabiner-Ice Axe and Boot-Axe
Following check-in you will be grouped into teams and Will be demonstrated and used.
assigned to a group leader. The group leader will stay with
each team throughout the day for assistance. You must 9. Navigation
complete all stations to receive credit for the field trip. You will apply fundamentals learned at the lecture and first
field trip.

1. Knots 10. Ten Essentials


1. Single bowline 7. Prusik Your ten essentials will be checked. If your instructor has
2. Double bowline 8. Figure eight rewoven comments on your minimum items, consider his or her
3. Mule (Leader Tie Off) 9. Figure eight loop advice carefully; your life may some day depend on it.
4. Bachman 10. Water
5. Clove hitch 11. Grapevine
6. Girth hitch 12. Munter hitch

***********************************************
2. Weight Drop Special Notes:
Follow the advice and directions of the instructor. Lack of You will be required to tie onto the climbing rope at the
attention may cause injury. appropriate stations; do not clip onto rope with a carabiner.

3. Prusik Station There will be no specific lunch break. Eat as your individual
You will be introduced to one of the fundamental techniques schedule permits.
of "climbing up a rope" here. You will be on your own on
this one, except for your station leader who will check to You will stay with your assigned group and leader unless
make sure you are hooked up correctly and safely. changes are made by the field trip leader.

4. Sitting Hip Belay Station Do not invite your children, pets, friends, or
Sitting Hip will be demonstrated and practiced. Review relatives to this field trip. This field trip is for
and practice belay signals learned at the first field trip. students only.
Leader tie-off will be demonstrated.
5. Fixed Line & Leader Tie Off Station Do not litter the park and please pick up any litter you see.
Will be demonstrated and used. Ask questions: You're here to learn.
6. Mechanical Belay Devices & Munter Hitch
Will be demonstrated and used.
7. Rappel Setup and Backup
Will be demonstrated and explained.

20
THE SITTING HIP BELAY
The belayer should connect to the The clove hitch allows the quick removal
main anchor with the climbing rope of any slack between the climber and
by taking a length of rope directly the anchor and is therefore preferred by
from his/her harness and tying a the Olympia Branch.
clove hitch into the locking carabiner
clipped into the main anchor.

It is imperative that the


belayer's braking hand
always be opposite
to the side on the main
anchor when using a sitting
hip belay.

This will reduce the twisting


motion when holding a fall.

A guide carabiner is placed on When sitting, face the direction of


the harness (gate down and out), fall. Take the climbing
to help maintain rope. The rope coming from the climber
Two good anchors
climbing rope is then clipped and pass it under your seat. should always be used.
thru it. Be certain there is One anchor should
minimal slack between your be used only if it is
anchor and your belay position, absolutely bombproof
otherwise, unwanted movement (e.g. a large tree).
may occur when holding a fall.

21
22
Snow Travel and Self Arrest (Intro to Climbing)
DATE: See field trip schedule
TIME: TBA
DURATION: 1 day
PLACE: Mt. Rainier
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED: See Equipment Checklist plus:
USGS Mt. Rainier East map
Hero loop for S.C.I.A. Belay
REVIEW: Chapters 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, and 16
IMPORTANT: All cars must carry chains and a shovel.
Practice and Objectives Learn individual and team ice axe arrests
Practice snow belay and anchor techniques
Practice snow travel
Critical Skills for Field Trips are Boxed
1. Snow Travel 3. Sitting Hip Belay
a. rest step d. roped travel on snow Your instructor will explain and demonstrate a proper
b. step kicking e. switchbacking belay stance for the sitting hip belay. Review Freedom of
c. ice axe carry the Hills for the sitting hip belay.

2. Self Arrest Practice 4. Snow Belays


Your instructor will fully explain and demonstrate all ice Your instructor will explain and demonstrate how to prepare
axe arrest positions. Each of you must successfully perform a proper belay stance for the boot-axe and standing
an arrest in each position to receive student credit. Your carabiner-ice axe belays. These belays are illustrated on
instructor will demonstrate and then you will practice arrest page 22.
positions in the following sequence: 5. Snow Anchors and Fixed Line
a. feet first, face down c. head first, face down Your instructor or the field trip leader will demonstrate
b. feet first, face up d. head first, face up the use of snow flukes, pickets, the dead man, bollards and
your ice axe as snow anchors. You will practice climbing on
Proficiency All Knots a fixed line using the prusik.

We will begin each new position at slow speed; don't be 6. Descending


afraid to ask your instructor to hold you on the slope at the a. Glissades (standing/sitting)
start if this seems to help. Ask your instructor to show you b. Descending downhill in the uphill tracks
again before you try a position you're not sure about. If you c. Descending downhill using plunge step
have difficulty with a certain position, be sure to let your
instructor know.
Directions to Paradise, Mt. Rainier National
Park
From Olympia, drive through Yelm to McKenna. Turn
right (Highway702) and drive about 9 miles to a stop sign
at Highway7. Turn right (toward La Grande) or go
straight (through Eatonville).The roads are well signed
from here. Pass through Elbe, Ashford, the park entrance,
Longmire, and up to Paradise.Allow2-1/2 hours from
Olympia. (Approximately 170 miles round trip from
Olympia.)

23
Snow Camp (Glacier Section)
DATE: See field trip schedule
TIME: TBA
DURATION: 2 days, overnight
PLACE: TBA
EQUIPMENTREQUIRED: See Equipment Checklist plus: USGS Mt. Rainier East map & Compass
Optional Extra candles and aluminum foil, Rubber gloves
REVIEW: Chapters 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 16,17, 26, and 27
IMPORTANT: All cars must carry chains and a shovel. All snow shelters will be broken
in prior to leaving

1. Learn the basics of snow survival: manage as now camp, build a


This 2-day field trip has snow shelter and spend the night in or on snow.
several objectives 2. Learn to identify avalanche terrain & conditions.
3. Learn crevasse rescue techniques, practice ice axe arrest, snow
belays and anchor techniques.
4. Learn to prepare for glacier climb, rising before dawn, roping up,
roped travel with crampons.

Snow Survival Water supply will consist of melted snow and what each
Your instructor will check your equipment, accompany
of you carries. Following instruction at the camp area,
you to the practice area and supervise you throughout
you will construct your snow shelter. A shovel suitable
the weekend. You will need a change of warm and dry
for digging a snow shelter, a piece of plastic for snow
clothes to put on after digging your snow shelter and
removal, rubber gloves and a waterproof rain suit will
after snow practice both of which are very wet work.
make digging the shelter a pleasurable experience
You will not be allowed to return to your cars Saturday,
rather than an ordeal. Your shelter is where you will be
so plan on packing all your gear with you to camp. Any
sleeping. Your instructor will be close at hand to assist
student not completely and properly equipped will not
in your shelter making, explain construction methods,
be permitted to participate.
and answer any questions you may have. Two types of
Questions? Call the leader.
snow shelters - a snow cave and a ranger trench - are
Remember, sunburn and snow blindness can occur illustrated on the following pages.
even if the sky is cloudy. So be safe and apply
sunscreen.

Building a Snow Cave The first person starts by digging a rectangular entrance
See Freedom 8 p44-55 measuring about 18 inches wide by 5 feet (chest) high,
For many years, the "standard" snow cave has been extending about 3 feet into the bank (figure 1). At that
described in detail, accompanied by phrases like "allow point, a waist-high platform is dug, about 4 feet wide
at least 3 hours for construction," "prepare to become and centered on the entrance. This is developed into an
soaked, it's a wet job, "and "it's hardly an emergency 18-inch high, 4-foot wide opening extending into the
shelter, rather a major snow excavation job!" It does not bank. It is through this rectangular opening that snow
have to be this way. Described below is a quicker from the enlargement process will pass, eliminating the
alternative. In selecting the construction site, it is
preferable to find a steep need for a second person
bank, the steeper the bank, to haul snow. The second
the easier the construction. person can be cutting or
(On flat terrain or forming blocks or balls of
extremely hard snow, as snow to later seal the front
on a glacier, alternate portion of the opening.
methods are better.) The Continue to dig, expanding
cave is begun part way up the room in all directions
the bank so snow can be except down (figure 2).
removed downhill. Remove the snow through
Generally, construction is the rectangle.
easier with two people.

24
The waist high platform becomes the floor of the cave. Once inside, the fun of adapting the shelter begins. A
After excavating everything within easy reach, extend the waterproof ground sheet and an ensolite pad, placed in a
entrance about 2 feet into the floor area and about 1 foot slightly depressed flat area, will prevent slipping while
down (figure 3). Enter the partially constructed shelter, being sleeping. A small candle provides a warm glow. Small
able to almost stand. Continue to excavate, expanding the alcoves can be dug in the walls for storing odds and ends
cave moderately in all directions so that the overall inside like pack, boots, digging utensils, and stove. Sticks poked
dimensions are about 7 feet long, 5 feet wide, and 3-1/2 feet into the walls are good coat hangers. Refinements in
high or more. cooking, sleeping and entrance areas complete the steps in
preparing a comfortable shelter.

When the interior nears completion, one person fills in the


horizontal slot with snow blocks previously constructed or
cut from the interior (figure 4). One large block or two
smaller ones leaning against each other are generally
sufficient to close the upper half of the entrance tunnel. After
caulking any remaining holes, the shelter is done (figure 5).

It is recommended that those wanting to try this technique


follow the dimensions very closely the first time. It is best not
to dig the entrance too far into the bank, but only far enough
to be able to enter into a solidly roofed room. However, the
depth of the snow, the slope and various terrain features
may dictate modifications and necessary adaptations. Snow
caves can provide comfortable and practical winter shelters,
eliminating the need for a tent. They are not complicated to
construct and allow the builders an opportunity to improvise
while developing their burrowing skills.

If time permits, dig the entrance down to facilitate easy


access. However, the sleeping platform should be above the
top of the entrance to trap warm air.

With the floor higher than entrance level, warm air can be
trapped within the cave, heating to 35 F or more from
body heat with an assist from a small candle. The roof
structure is important: the dome shape gives greater
strength and when smoothed carefully, melting water will
flow down the walls, instead of dripping on the occupants.
Once the cave is dug, a ventilation hole must be poked
through the outside for cooking fume exhaust. The waist-
high platform becomes the floor of the cave.
1

25
Ranger Trench

The ranger trench is a glorified version of a classic snow shelter which has been described as a "coffin,"
"grave" and probably a half dozen other names.
One of the main advantages of the trench is its simplicity. The normal tools for snow shelter construction -
a few shovels and a couple of saws - are all that is needed for construction.
A ranger trench is simply a deep ditch with an A-frame roof and triangular-shaped cross section, wide
end down. It starts 3 to 4 feet across and widens as it goes down. The roof blocks are shaped from the
snow removed to make the trench.

26
Snow Camp (continued) (Glacier Section)

Avalanche Awareness

Practice and Objectives


Learn to identify avalanche terrain and conditions.
Dig a snow pit
See Chapter 16 Freedom 8 p356-365
Avalanches are a danger to anyone traveling in the backcountry. At this field trip you will learn to
recognize the snow and weather conditions that precede avalanches, the kinds of terrain where they occur,
and the signs of past avalanche activity. You will learn which areas provide the most safety and which
must be avoided. You will learn techniques for crossing a questionable slope and what to do if you're
caught. You will have the opportunity to examine a snow pit.

The knowledge and experience gained at this field trip will help you to avoid being caught in a slide, and
to exercise certain precautions in order that you will be able to continue your outdoor activities safely.

27
Snow Camp (continued) (Glacier Section)
Critical Skills are Boxed

Snow Skills Snow and Roped Travel


Practice and Objectives Practice and objectives
Practice individual ice axe arrests Practice snow travel while roped
Practice team ice axe arrest
Practice snow belay and anchor techniques
Observe pulley system setup for Crevasse Rescue
Snow Travel
We hope you will find these exercises enjoyable and Carrying ice axe
valuable in building confidence and practicing a variety Rest step
of techniques for use on snow climbs. Plunge step
Switchback
Walking with crampons

1. Self Arrest Practice


This will be a review of ice axe practice, concentrating Roped Travel
on:
Pre-dawn with crampons
Self arrests (at least two successful in each position)
Team ice axe arrest
Feet first, face up Feet first, face down
Head first, face down Head first, face up
With pack on Simulate arrest with crampons

Team arrests
Your instructor will demonstrate the various techniques
and then will ask that you work energetically to get the
most benefit and enjoyment as possible.
Be sure to take sharp and breakable items out of packs
since you will be arresting with, as well as without,
packs.

2. Knots
Tie &know how they are used.

3. Belays
Sitting hip
Boot axe
Standing carabiner ice axe
Belay device

4. Anchors
Several

28
Rock Fundamentals (Rock Section)
DATE: See field trip schedule
TIME: TBA
DURATION: 1 day
PLACE: TBA
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED: See Equipment Checklist plus:
Lunch and liquid
Mountaineering boots, no rock shoes
REVIEW: Chapter 9, 10, 11, and 13
KNOTS AND BELAYS ARE CRITICAL SKILLS AND WILL BE EVALUATED THROUGHOUT THE DAY

Practice and Objectives Rappel Station


Learn and practice basic rock climbing skills At this field trip, you will rappel using the carabiner
including friction, crack, face and traverse moves brake method. This is illustrated below. A variety of
Learn and practice mechanical rappel techniques mechanical devices for belays and rappels will also be
Practice belay techniques and rope handling demonstrated. Review "Rappelling" in Freedom of the
Practice navigation skills Hills and your notes from the lecture. Rappelling
precautions are also outlined in this section.
General Instructions
You will work in pairs assigned by the field trip leader, Directions
rotating at your own speed. Take your pack and To be provided
equipment with you at all times. There is no scheduled
lunch break, eat lunch and snacks as time allows Climbers
and belayers will wear helmets. All belays will be anchored
and belayers will use leather gloves. Use correct signals
including names. Climbers should tie into harness with a
figure eight. Make sure that instructors fill out your field trip
book after you complete each station. Turn in the field trip
book and check out with field trip leader at the end of the
field trip. Do not leave until you have been dismissed.

29
Rock I (Rock Section)
DATE: See field trip schedule
TIME: TBA
DURATION: Approximately 8 hours
PLACE: McCleary Cliffs, near Lake Cushman
MAP: Lake Cushman Custom Correct
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED: See Equipment Checklist plus:
Lunch and liquid, Overnight gear & food if you plan to stay overnight

REVIEW: Chapter 5,6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 25, and appendix A

KNOTS AND BELAYS ARE CRITICAL SKILLS AND WILL BE EVALUATED THROUGHOUT THE DAY
Practice and Objectives: 4. Belaying (including stance and proper aim of belay)
Practice basic rock climbing skills a. proper signals (use partner's name)
Work on anchor and belay techniques and rope b. rope handling
handling c. anchor placement and setup
Practice rappel techniques with friction devices

1. Climbing Techniques (learn to trust your boots) 5. Rock Climbing


a. climb with your eyes a. slab d. layback
b. 3-point suspension- practice keeping hands b. face e. chimney
below eye level c. crack
c. weight over your feet
d. rhythm, climb smoothly 6. Climbing Holds
2. Rappelling(with top-rope belay) a. friction e. down pressure
a. anchor setup c. perpendicular to rock face b. jam f. other counter pressure
b. carabiner brake d. "face" and "open-book" c. undercling g. testing holds
setup rappels d. layback h. use of small holds

3. Rappel Backup 7. Knots


a. pulling on rope c. prusik All of them
b. top belay d. autoblock

From Olympia, take Highway 101 north past Shelton to Hoodsport and turn left on the Lake Cushman Road.
About 9.5 miles from Hoodsport, turn left toward the Stair-case area. Look for a parking area about 4 miles
past this junction. If you see the end of the lake, you have gone too far.

30
Welcome to McCleary Cliffs
This handout is a brief summary of the material to be done with anchored overhead belays. Pay strict attention to
covered at Rock I and Rock II. At Rock I and II, you will the climber, rope, and belaying responsibilities. Guard
practice basic rock climbing techniques. You will apply against letting your mind wander when you are belaying.
fundamentals learned at lectures, Basic Techniques, Belay Keep your braking hand in proper position at all times and
and Rock Fundamentals practices in actual rock climbing. use gloves while belaying.
You have a good opportunity to test your climbing abilities to
their limits under controlled conditions. By the end of the During roped climbing you and your rope partner will
practice you will not only have acquired new skills, but, just alternate as climber and belayer. When you start climbing on
as important, you will have matured your climbing judgment the rock, let your belayer know what you are up to using the
by learning more about your capabilities. proper signals. Pitches should be climbed both up and down;
neglecting to learn to climb down will leave a serious gap in
At this practice you will become acquainted with one of the your training. Start with easier pitches at first and, as your
more serious hazards (objective hazards) of mountain ability and confidence grows, seek out your climbing limits by
climbing: Rock Fall. As a safety measure, you will be moving onto the more difficult holds. Remember the
required to wear a helmet at all times at this practice. principles of balanced climbing outlined above.
Whether dislodged by yourself, a fellow climber, or by natural
forces, if you see or hear a falling rock, you should Lunch will be taken at a time when most convenient,
immediately shout a loud warning, ROCK! Remember to probably when you are waiting for other climbers to finish
repeatedly shout a warning regardless of the possibility that with a practice pitch so you may use it. Be sure to check
someone may be below you. clothing and pack for ticks.

If a warning of "ROCK" is called from above, look up and All rappels will be done with overhead belays. Review
locate the rock. If necessary, you can dodge the rock or get rappelling in Freedom of the Hills and the following
behind any projection at hand, being sure to relay the rappelling precautions:
warning to other climbers. Remember: Although it may at
first appear that the rock will miss hitting you, the rock may Make sure the anchor is sound.
bounce and split into pieces which may abruptly change their When a good anchor cannot be found and you are forced
direction of fall. If you should dislodge a rock, do not wait to to descend on a poor one, use a belay and move
see whether it is going to roll far enough to hit someone. cautiously without jerking.
Shout "ROCK immediately! Make sure there are no tangles in the rope length before
rappelling.
The best solution to the rock fall problem is for each and Tie a large knot in the end of the rappel rope or ropes to
every climber to practice an extreme form of self-discipline to prevent rappelling off the end. More safety can be
avoid dislodging rock. This discipline should be practiced 100 achieved by putting a carabiner through a figure eight
percent of the time, whether on the trail, rock climbing, or knot.
scrambling. The rewards in the sport of climbing are primarily Never let go of the rope with the braking hand, no matter
of a personal nature for the greatest majority of climbers. what happens.
One of these rewards should be the personal pride you take Make sure that your clothing (and long hair) is tucked in
in your ability to climb through an area where loose rock is to avoid jamming in the carabiner system. Carry a knife in
present without causing a rock fall, even though other an accessible place.
climbers may not be below you. You will find that you can Look where you are going.
increase your rock climbing skills at a faster Make sure your rappel line reaches the bottom of the
rate if you make up your mind early to avoid coming into pitch, or that it stops at a spot (ledge, etc.) where you can
contact with loose rock. Avoiding loose rock most often reset the rappel if necessary. Obviously, it is not good
forces the climber on to more challenging, but also more practice to reach the end of your rappel rope and find,
rewarding, climbing routes and holds. A final, more sober while you are hanging there, that there is no way to get
incentive to preventing rock fall is the thought that a rock you onto the rock.
dislodge may cause a serious, possibly fatal, injury to a Always be sure of how much rope you have left.
fellow climber.
Rappelling is a fast, safe method of descending pitches that
Each team and their instructor will proceed through the otherwise would be difficult to climb down. Its safety depends
activities of the day as a group and will be checked out at the on your ability to set up a rappel properly and then execute
end of the day as a group, so stay together. Group leaders sound rappelling technique.
will direct teams to available and permissible pitches for
practice; your cooperation is requested. There are many possible pitfalls in the rappel system .Learn
what they are and how to avoid them. Study what constitutes
Remember not to step on the climbing rope. It is your lifeline a sound anchor, and, on climbs, experiment setting up
and should be treated with respect. different types of anchors by improvising with what nature
offers. Learn what knots mayor may not be used and
Your instructor will have you set up a belay position and practice them.
discuss proper belaying techniques. All climbing will be

31
Rock II (Rock Section)
DATE: See field trip schedule
TIME: TBA
DURATION: All day. Approximately 8 hours
PLACE: McCleary Cliffs, Lake Cushman
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED: Same as Rock I
REVIEW: Same as Rock I
Today's practice is a continuation of Rock I. During the day, you will have the opportunity to refine
your climbing techniques and develop the habits of a safe and confident climber. You are encouraged
to try some of the more challenging routes at McCleary Cliffs.

Belaying and Knots are Critical Skills

32
Glacier Travel (Glacier Section)

DATE: See field trip schedule


TIME: TBA
DURATION: All day. Approximately 10 hours
PLACE: Mt. Rainier (See Snow 1 for map)
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED: See Equipment Checklist plus:
USGS Mt. Rainier East map
REVIEW Chapters 9, 10, 16, 17, and 22

Belaying and Knots are Critical Skills

Practice and Objectives Once each rope team has set up their crevasse rescue
Learn and practice glacier travel techniques practice area, each team must demonstrate their
Learn and practice crevasse rescue methods ability with the z-pulley pulley rescue method. Each
Practice snow belays student will be "rescued" and lead a rescue as time
Practice snow anchors permits.
Practice roped travel
Practice self arrest "Victims" are cautioned to dress warmly no matter
what the surface temperature might be. Also,
Students will be formed into groups and assigned to an remember that a certain amount of snow will
instructor and an assistant instructor. Instructors will probably be showered down on you by the ropes.
check your equipment before starting out. Wear your hard hat!

Before stepping onto the glacier, your instructors will You will also be traveling in rope teams to practice
remind you about glacier travel, rope etiquette, the different climbing formations used for glacier
cramponing, ice axe handling (including crevasse travel before returning to the parking lot.
probing), and route finding. You will put on a seat
harness, chest harness, prusiks and crampons, and will Watch those crampons on the climbing rope!
rope up.
The procedures for setting up the z-pulley and single
pulley systems for crevasse rescue are shown in
Chapter 17 Freedom of the Hills 8th edition.

33
Study Chapter 17 Freedom of the Hills 8th Edition for Crevasse Rescue
and Glacier Travel

34
GLOSSARY OF TECHNICAL MOUNTAINEERING TERMS
Most of the following definitions are from Fred Beckey's GROOVE: A very shallow inside corner, often smooth, generally
Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 1. flared.

AID CLIMBING: Involves the use of any artificial means of GULLY: A depression grooving a mountainside.
ascent, not relying totally on hands and feet. (This includes
any tension from such aids as knotted slings, a lasso, or a HEADWALL: Where the slope or face of a mountain, cirque,
shoulder stand.) or glacier steepens dramatically in angle; it is often concave
in shape.
ARETE, NOSE, PILLAR, AND BUTTRESS: Often refer to
the same type of cornering formation on a mountain. Generally an ICEFALL: A steep reach of glacier with a chaotic crevassed
arete is a major edge, not necessarily steep in profile. A surface and rapid flow rate.
nose is almost always quite steep. A pillar is usually rounded
and sharply defined, and is generally steep. A buttress is a JAM CRACK: A crack varying from fingertip size to room for
major formation on a peak, generally implied to be broader a leg; it is usually climbed by wedging techniques.
than an arete.
LEDGE or RAMP: Generally runs some distance; a ramp is
BERGSCHRUND (schrund): A large crevasse formed by an ascending ledge.
tension where flowing ice of a glacier fractures away from a
nearly stagnant ice slope or headwall above. MOAT: The space between snow/ice and a rock wall. It can be
expected to widen as the summer progresses.
BULGE: The smallest steepening of the angle of a face.
NEVE: A French word translated "consolidated, granular
CHUTE: A depression steeper than a gully. See also couloir. snow in the state of transition to glacier ice:' Neve refers to
the area covered by perennial snow or firn, lying entirely
CIRQUE: A deep, steep-walled amphitheater-like recess in a within a glacier's accumulation zone. The line (actually
mountain; caused by glacial erosion. neve-line-zone) which equates to the lower elevation limit
of the retained winter snowpack. At the end of the annual
COL: A steep high pass, smaller than a saddle; a saddle is a melt season it separates the neve area from the bare ice area
more rounded ridge depression. of a glacier. In the accumulation area above, annual snowfall
exceeds annual melting.
COULOIR: A deep chute. Likely to have some snow or ice.
Terms for depressions are used in this order of decreasing NOTCH: Generally, a narrow col or sharp break in a ridge.
size: canyon, gully, couloir, chute, chimney, crack.
OUTSIDE CORNER: A minor edge on a rock face, usually
briefer and of less stature than a nose or rib.
DIHEDRAL: An inside corner, open book or diedre; a
depression generally 90 degrees or more on its facings, as a
OVERHANG: A section of wall above the angle of 90 degrees.
junction of two rock planes. An angular slab lying against a
Termed ceiling or roof when nearly 180 degrees.
flat wall may form a left-facing or right-facing open book.
PITCH: A section of the climb between belays; length can
FACE: A steep mountainside, generally over 30 degrees if
vary from a short distance to the full length of the rope; most
mixed snow, ice, and rock; and over 45 degrees if rock.
pitches vary from 80 to 130 feet. Sometimes called a lead.
FIRN: A consolidated granular transition of snow not yet
PLATFORM: A level rock area, short in length.
changed to glacier ice. The word "firn" refers only to the
substance of the material itself. It has survived at least one
SERAC: A block tower or pinnacle of ice or firn formed
season of ablation. Its density may require cramponing in
by the intersection of crevasses, or found standing in ice
climbing situations.
cascades.
FREE CLIMBING: Means that no direct support from piton,
stirrup, loop, rope, or carabiner is used; any such pieces of SLOPE: A mountainside gender than a face.
equipment may be used for safety only. Free climbing may be
roped or unroped. SPIRE,TOWER,NEEDLE: In general, a spire is smaller
than a peak or mountain (exceptions: The Bugaboos, Twin
FRIABLE: Easily crumbled rock. Spires), but larger than a tower. A needle is generally a
single thin block.
GLACIER ICE: Clear and relatively unaerated dense glacier ice
characterizes the basal parts of glaciers. Usually termed blue ice
when found of this density on alpine walls. Below the neve line the
main material of the glacier is bubbly glacier ice.
I

35
NOTES

36
2015 Basic Climbing Graduation Application
Olympia Mountaineers

When all requirements of the Basic Climbing Course have been completed, fill out and mail this form to the
Basic Records Course Chair:
Bob Kerenan keranen@hcc.net
431 E. Eastlake
Shelton, WA 98584
This form must be received by October 1, 2015 if you would like to receive your certificate at the Annual
Olympia Mountaineers Banquet.

Name:______________________________________________________________________
(as you would like it to appear on the certificate

Address:____________________________________________________________________

I am applying to the Climbing Committee for graduation. I have met the following requirements:

3. Attended all lectures.


4. Passed the written examination.
5. Completed all field trips.
6. Completed the following experience climbs: (Give name of climb, type (C, A, R, or G), date, and leader's
name.)
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________________
7. I hold a current Mountaineering Oriented First Aid (MOFA) card...
Check one of the following:
_____ I previously submitted a copy of the card to the Committee.
_____ I am attaching a copy of the card.
8. Proof of Stewardship Requirement.

_________________ ___________________________________________________
(Date) (Signature)

37
38
Application for 2015 Basic Climbing Course Extension
Although students have two years to complete course requirements, The Climbing Committee encourages students
to complete all lectures and field trips in the first year.

This extension form must be completed and sent to the Climbing Committee. The information on the form is to
make sure that the committee is current on what you need to complete the course and to make sure you are included
in announcements concerning next years class and climbs being offered.

Name: ______________________________________________ Date: __________________________

Street/Box: __________________________________________ Phone: _________________________

City/State/Zip: _______________________________________ E-mail: ________________________

Who is your mentor? ______________________________________________________________________


Describe the course requirement you missed: ___________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
Describe the reason for missing:______________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________

What climbs, if any, have you done? Name the climbs completed, type of climb, date, route, and leader name.
________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________
If an extension form is not received by the Climbing Committee you may not receive notification of time and
location of Lectures and Field Trips.

Return this form to:


Bob Keranen keranen@hcc.net
431 E. Eastlake
Shelton, WA 98584

39
40
Take this form to your Stewardship Project
Important!
Have the Project Leader/Contact sign the form
Keep the form and submit with your graduation application

Climbing
Scrambling Stewardship Project Report
Student Name

Date

Location
Agency/Facility
Hours of Service
Trail Maintenance Park Cleanup Writing/Calling Teaching
Habitat Restoration Facility Repair Info Display Learning
Type of Project Briefly describe

Project Authority Project Leader/Contact


Name

Address

Phone
e-mail

Signature

Important
Contacts Graduation Application or More Information

Climbing Student send to: Scrambling Student send to:


Return Completed
Report with Bob Keranen Tom Eckhout
Graduation 431 E. Eastlake
Application to Shelton, WA 98584
keranen@hcc.net

Need more Contact: Jim French


information? E-mail: jimfrenchwa@comcast.net Phone: (360) 754-6551

41
Why do the Climbing and Scrambling Courses
include a Stewardship Requirement?
Our public lands need our support. The Mountaineers is
one of the nations oldest and most highly regarded
advocates for the preservation of our federal and state
lands for human powered travel. For nearly a century,
the Mountaineers have championed for protection and
recreation access to public lands, testified in support of
wilderness, parks and forests and taken tools in hand to
build trails and restore natural habitat. The founding
principles of the Mountaineers: Explore, Study, Preserve,
and Enjoy the Natural Beauty of the Outdoors
demonstrate the importance of balancing personal
enjoying of our beautiful Pacific Northwest with the
Trail maintenance at Tolmie State Park
responsibility for preservation.
Each year the Olympia Branch trains nearly 200 students in backcountry travel, requiring a minimum of 3
trips and often as many as 10 field trips to parks, forests and wilderness area. When class trips are
combined with the outings of over 700 members, the Olympia Branch accounts for hundreds of
hiking/climbing days on front country and backcountry trails. Public land managing agencies truly need
our help to protect and restoring our natural environment, the same outdoor environment that makes
courses and adventures possible. You may be surprised. Students find stewardship projects enjoyable.

What kinds of projects qualify for the Stewardship Requirement?


Stewardship is community service with a conservation orientation. These projects usually occur on
federal, state or local public lands to preserve or restore our natural resources such as trail maintenance
and habitat restoration. Other projects include; letter writing to support a natural resource campaign or to
inform legislators of conservation issues, staffing an environmental booth, conducting wildlife inventories
or salmon surveys, and cleaning up or restoring our parks. The time required for a project should be
equivalent to a day trip.
How do I find and
sign up for a
Stewardship Project that interests
me?
The Olympia Branchs Conservation Committee publishes a
list of local projects and will distribute the list during the
course lectures. The Mountaineers monthly Go Guide, and
the club web site at www.mountaineers.org publish local
and regional projects offered by all branches. Just contact
the project leader at least one week prior to the project.
The variety of projects requires different equipment, skills
and physical stamina. Youre sure to find a project thats
Habitat restoration at Nisqually educational, enjoyable and personally rewarding.
National Wildlife Refuge
Must I participate in an Olympia Branch Project?
No. Any Stewardship Project sponsored by any organization will suffice. We encourage students to join
in or even organize projects that meet their individual interests.

42
Basic Climbing Course Equipment List

Technical Climbing Equipment Required for Course Needed By

Commercial seat harness Basic Skills FT1


Leather Belay Gloves rough cowhide Basic Skills FT 1
1 tubular nylon webbing (all lengths untied)
a) 8 ft. of one color for chest harness Basic Skills FT 1
b) 10 ft. of second color for double sling/runner "
c) Two 6ft. pieces third color for slings "
d) 4 ft. for Hero loop fourth color if possible Belay Practice FT 2
48 sewn nylon sling (For extended rappel*) Belay Practice FT 2
5 or 6mm Perlon
a) 8 ft. for Leader Tie Off Basic Skills FT 1
b) 4 ft. for Auto Block Belay Practice FT 2
Belay device ATC or similar Basic Skills FT 1
Carabiners:
a) 6 standard: (no Nano/Mini) the carabiner brake Basic Skills FT 1
works best with oval or D carabiners
b) 3 locking: one must be a pearabiner (large pear Basic Skills FT 1
shaped carabiner) for Mnter hitch, the other
two should be small locking biners.
Climbing Helmet, UIAA approved Belay Practice FT 2
Ice Axe Belay Practice FT 2
Crampons Snow Camp FT 4
Rescue Pulley "
Snow Wands Snow Camp FT 4

* Check Mountaineers Website at www.mountaineers.org/blog/extended-rappel-and-


updated-belay-techniques for explanation and video of this technique.

Revised Jan. 20, 2015


Field Trip Signup Online:

Go to www.mountaineers.org and log on, your default login name is your Mountaineers id
number, which is about 6-digits long and should be in your new member packet. If for some
reason you dont know your number let me know and I'll dig up your membership number. Your
default password is the first and last initials of your name plus your membership number.

Example: Bob Keranen with membership id of 123456 would be:

Login name: 123456

Password: bk123456

After logging on click on Your Account at the top of the page and verify your name, email
address, etc. for spelling errors. In addition to verifying your account info, I'd like you to
register for the Basic Skills Workshop on Feb. 16.

Search to it by using the menu strip, selecting Connect > Activities by Branch > Olympia.

Be sure to sign up for the Basic Climbing Course Olympia/Basic Skills Workshop with a
type of Climb and my name as the leader.

Bob Keranen

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