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Failure of Rappel Setup (Protection Pulled

1990Out), Inadequate
Colorado, Equipment, Colorado,
Rocky Mountain Rocky Mountain Natio
National
Park
On May 7, 1989, Robert Johnston
(30) was attempting to lead Conan’s
Gonads, a 5.9 crack climb on Twin
Owls Crag. After 12 meters of rock
climbing, Johnston decided that he
was incapable of continuing the lead.
0 1
He anchored his rappel from a single
Failure of Rappel—Failure to Check System,
1990 British Columbia,
British Squamish,
Columbia, SmokeSmoke
Squamish, Bluffs
Bluffs
On May 28, 1989, Deborah Richards
and I were finishing up three days of
climbing in the Squamish area. I had
just finished a lead on Cat’s Crack
(5.7 or 5.8, not sure). Deborah wanted
to top rope Pink Flamingo which is
0 2
easily accessed by rappelling off the
Fall into Crevasse, Climbing Alone, Inadequate
1990 Equipment, Alberta,
Alberta, Rocky Rocky Mountains,
Mountains, CrowfootCrowfoot Mounta
Mountain
On August 13, 1989, F.E. (58) was
hiking up Crowfoot Mountain. At 1100,
he was ascending the small, relatively
snow-free glacier on the West Face of
the mountain. He stepped onto a
snow bridge and fell about ten meters
0 3
into a crevasse. His fall was stopped
Fall into Crevasse, Climbing Unroped, British
1990 Columbia, Bugaboo Mountains,
British Columbia, Bugaboo Bugaboo
Mountains,Spire
Bugaboo Spire
On September 13, 1989, while
crossing the Crescent Glacier after
climbing the Kain Route on Bugaboo
Sprie, John Ulricson (45) fell ten
meters onto a snow bridge in a
crevasse. I was traveling behind,
0 4
carrying a rope. After about 30
Fall Into Crevasse, Unroped, Inadequate1990
Equipment,
On Alberta, Rocky of
the afternoon Mountains,
March 29,Freshfield
1989, Glacier
four ski tourers were descending the
Freshfield Glacier unroped when one
of them fell into a crevasse. The
others climbed (still unroped) back up
to where she had disappeared. They
were starting to rig a rescue system,
when G. W. (39) fell through the snow
0 5
bridge into the same crevasse. He fell
 Fall into Moat, Descending Unroped, Poor
1990 Position, Alberta,
Alberta, Rocky
Rocky Mountains,Mount
Mountains, Mount Nublock
Nublock
Late in the afternoon of June 2, 1989,
J.N. (44) and A.N. (65) were
descending unroped from an ascent
of Mount Nublock. When they
reached the steep headwall above
Lake Agnes, they started to descend
0 6
a narrow snow gully. Part way down
Fall on Ice, Avalanches, No Radio, Alaska,
1990MountFALL Johnson
ON ICE, AVALANCHES, NO
RADIO

Alaska, Mount Johnson

On April 14, 1989, Jim Sweeney (33)

and Dave Nyman (31) flew to the
base of Mount Dickey to attempt
0 7
climbs of the Moose’s Tooth and the
Fall on Ice, California, Carson Peak 1990 California, Carson Peak
On December 28, 1989, a daring
nighttime rescue of an injured
mountain climber came off without a
hitch as the June Lake Mountain
Rescue Team lowered a Davis man
some 600 meters off Carson Peak to
waiting paramedics.
0 8
Edward Darack (18) a student at UC
Fall on Rock, Broken Rock Flake, Alaska,
1990
MountAlaska,
Johnsonbroke
Davis, Mountboth
Johnson
the tibia and fibula
On
bones of one leg inSeth
July 12, 1989, a 25Shaw
meter(31)
fall and
Bob Ingle were attempting a new
while ice climbing in Rob’s Ravine on
route on the East Buttress of Mount
johnson in the Ruth Gorge. They were
about 300 meters above the Ruth
Glacier by 1600. Shaw was leading on
a 100-meter rope and was 50 meters
0 9
above the belay. He put a skyhook on
Fall on Rock, Chocks Pulled Out, Quebec,
1990
Gatineau Park Escarpment
Quebec, Gatineau Park Escarpment
On May 14, 1989, Henry Marsden
(25) was leading a 5.10b route up a
thin crack in the ’Ron and John’ cliff.
The lead was protected by five wired
chocks: R.P.s and taper locks. At the
top, about 12 meters up, he fell. As
the rope tightened, it pulled out the
0 10
chocks starting from the bottom. Then
Fall on Rock, Climbing Solo, Inadequate
1990
Equipment, Inexperience,
California, California,
Yosemite Yosemite
National Park, National Park, C
Cathedral Peak
On August 22, 1989, Pat Teague at
the Valley SAR cache received a
telephoned report of a climbing
accident on Cathedral Peak.
According to the reporting party,
Christopher Wear (44), his
0 11
companion, identified as Yohosame
 Fall on Rock, Climbing Solo, No Hard Hat,
1990Inexperience, British Columbia,
British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount Wa
Rocky Mountains,
Mount Wardle
On June 23, 1989, Ben (21) and his
brother Uli (23) decided to make an
attempt to climb Mount Wardle via the
East Face. After completing a very
difficult bushwhack to reach the base
of the climb, they worked their
0 12
separate ways to the bottom of the
Fall on Rock, Climbing Solo, No Hard Hat,
1990Quebec, Charlevoix
Quebec, Mountains,
Charlevoix Mont duMont
Mountains, Gros Bras
du Gros Bras
On September 3, 1989, at 1645, Alain
S. (29) was climbing solo on
Hallunbeinbrunch, a difficult 300-
meter route. He was wearing a
harness with some hardware, but no
helmet. About 100 meters from the
0 13
start, he came off and fell all the way
Fall on Rock, Free-Solo, Exceeding Abilities,
1990 California, Joshua
California, Tree Tree
Joshua National Monument
National
Monument
On February 20, 1989, a friend and I
(33) made a one day trip to Joshua
Tree. After leading three climbs rated
5.9 or better, I led the roof of “Hobbit
Roof.” After going over cleanly, I
belayed my partner through. Upon
0 14
walking down the backside, I decided
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Alberta,
1990 Rocky Mountains,
Alberta, RockyMount RundleMount
Mountains,
Rundle
On August 11,1989, about 1400, Mark
D., a very experienced climber, was
leading the fifth pitch of a route called
Dropout on the east end of Mount
Rundle. He pulled out a large block,
which caused him to fall about 25
0 15
meters. His belayer held the fall.
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Ontario,
1990 Buffalo CragBuffalo Crag
Ontario,
On April 30, 1989, at 1550, Larry
Forsyth was leading Flying Kiwi (5.8).
He placed four pieces of protection on
the route, including two #6 rocks (sic)
just below the crux move. Attempting
the crux, he fell, and the two rocks
(sic) pulled out, resulting in an eight-
0 16
meter fall to the ground, with a
Fall on Rock, No Helmet, Quebec, Gatineau
1990 Park,Quebec,
Western Cwm
Gatineau Park, Western
Cwm
On October 8, 1989, Steve Adcock
(32) was leading an attempt on a new
route. He had just completed the crux
of the route, estimated at 5.10, and
moved onto an easier section, about
5.4, when he fell. Since he had placed
0 17
Friends just below, the fall was limited
 Fall on Rock, Rope Cut, Inadequate Protection,
1990 California,
California,Yosemite
YosemiteValley
Valley
On September 2, 1989, Manuel
Afonso (24) suffered multiple fractures
when he fell approximately 12 meters
to the ground from the Outer Limits
climbing route (I,5.10a) at Cookie
Cliff. An interview with witnesses
revealed the following details.
0 18
Rubio Rocabert led the first pitch of
Fall on Snow, Climbing Alone, AMS, Alaska,
1990 Mount
OuterMcKinley
Alaska, MountThe
Limits. McKinley
anchor at the top of
On May 6, 1989, Christopher
the pitch—about 35 meters above Bing the
(30) flew to the Southeast
ground—consisted Fork side-
of two bolts of the
Kahiltna Glacier to attempt a solo
ascent of the West Buttress route of
Mount McKinley. Bing allowed four
days to reach 4300 meters and a total
of seven days to reach 5200 meters
0 19
from the Talkeetna Airport. Bing did
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Equipment, California,
1990 Mount Whitney
California, Mount Whitney
On October 6, 1989, Louis Morris
(31), Steve Nootenboom (33) and
Bruce Hubbard
(36) were descending the
Mountaineers Route on Mount
Whitney about 1600, after climbing
the East Face to the summit. They
0 20
were unroped, without crampons or
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Protection, No1990
Hard Hat, Alberta,Rocky
Alberta, RockyMountains,
Mountains, Mount Andromeda
Andromeda
The night of July 1, 1989, John (25)
and Robert (33) bivouacked near the
lower icefall of the Andromeda
Glacier. At 0430 on July 2, they began
ascending the glacier at the base of
the route known as West Shoulder
0 21
Direct on Mount Andromeda. They
Fall Through Cornice, Unroped, Alberta,1990
Rocky Mountains, Columbia
Alberta, Rocky Icefield Columbia
Mountains,
Icefield
On April 23, 1989, Chris (33) and
William (38) had just completed an
ascent of Slipstream. They were
walking along the corniced edge of
Snow Dome looking for the descent
route. Around the fourth or fifth gully
0 22
to the south of Slipstream, William
Falling Rock, "Sled Ride" Down Snow,1990ClimbingCalifornia,
Alone, Distraction, California, Mount Shasta
Mount Shasta
I was on the second day of a planned
four-day ascent of Green Butte Ridge
(to include a night on top) of Mount
Shasta on May 8, 1989. I was alone
and about 3450 meters up. I stepped
on the icy top edge of a rock slab as
big as the roof of a car, one foot (30
0 24
cm) thick. It shot down the snow and
 Falling Rock, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, 1990
Ice Caves
Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Ice Caves
On July 6, 1989, around 1600, three
climbers were scrambling on easy
rock at the entrance to ice caves near
Bragg Creek. One of the climbers was
on an exit crack to the ice caves when
a rock formation collapsed on top of
him. He suffered massive and fatal
0 25
injuries. (Source: George Field, Alpine
Falling Rock, British Columbia, Coast Mountains,
1990 MountColumbia,
British Waddington Coast Mountains,
Mount Waddington
On September 13, 1989, Richard
Thomas (35) was ascending a steep
snow gully at 1980 meters on Mount
Waddington with two companions
when a large falling rock struck him
on the head, shattering his helmet
0 26
and inflicting fatal injuries.
Falling Rock, California, Mount Whitney 1990 On July 29, 1989, Rob Weingruber
(22) and Walker White (23) were
climbing the East Face route on
Mount Whitney. They had reached the
Grand Staircase (about 1500 meters
below the summit) when Rob was
struck on the helmet and back by a
basketball-sized rock. The rock had
0 27
been dislodged by the rope of a team
Falling Rock, Fall on Ice, Faulty Use of1990
Crampons, "Pitons" Pulled
Colorado, RockyOut, Inadequate
Mountain Equipment, Exceeding
National
Park
On July 31, 1989, Paul Hammond
(21), Erik Larson (17), and Carl
Steger (21) were traversing from rock
across the ice of Lamb’s Slide to the
start of Broadway Ledge. Hammond
was leading the traverse with a single
0 28
ax and crampons strapped to
Falling Rock, Not Following Instincts, Colorado,
1990 Ophir Wall Ophir Wall
Colorado,
On May 27, 1989, Katie Kemble (34),
former owner and Chief Guide of
Leavenworth Alpine Guides, Inc., and
Ric Hatch were climbing on the Ophir
Wall when this accident occurred.
Katie sent in the following narrative:
We had been climbing and decided to
0 29
finish up at a practice slab that
Falling Rock, Poor Position, Colorado, Rocky
1990 Mountain National
Colorado,
supposedly RockyPark
offeredMountain
full faceNational
climbing.
Park
Katie was finished and Ric was six
On May 18, 1989, Tricia Timms (20)
was struck in the hip by a 14 kg rock
on Eagle Cliff Mountain. Timms had
been sitting at the base of a cliff band,
directly in the fall line of rappellers in
her party. One of the rappellers had
0 30
dislodged the rock unintentionally.
 Falling Rock, Slip on Snow, Poor Position,
1990Climbing Alone,
Alberta, Alberta,
Rocky Rocky Mountains,
Mountains, Mount Mount Buller
Buller
On April 18, 1989, about 1030,
Steven W. set out from Calgary to
hike and climb in the Robertson
Glacier area. That evening, his father
reported that he had not returned for
supper as planned. At 0320 the next
0 32
morning, the father reported that he
Frostbite, Dehydration, AMS, Weather,1990
Alaska, Mount
Alaska,McKinley
Mount McKinley
On May 3, 1989, the Seoul National
University Alpine Association
expedition, a party of five Korean
climbers, flew to Kahiltna base camp
to begin a climb of the Cassin Ridge
on Mount McKinley. They went
directly onto the route rather than
0 33
acclimatize on the West Buttress first.
HAPE, Alaska, Mount McKinley 1990 Alaska, Mount McKinley
On May 9, 1989, Elfi Hallinger (42) a
member of a German ski traverse
expedition, developed high altitude
pulmonary edema (HAPE) at 4300
meters on the West Buttress route of
Mount McKinley. After treatment at
the Denali Medical Camp, Hallinger
0 35
descended to the Southeast Fork of
Hyperventilation-Induced Cerebella Ischemia
1990 (HICI), Alaska,
Alaska, Mount
Mount McKinley
McKinley
On April 30, 1989, the Penns Woods
Expedition flew to the Northeast Fork
of the Kahiltna Glacier to ascend the
West Buttress route of Mount
McKinley. The party arrived at the
4300 meter camp nine days later.
On May 12, during a carry above the
0 36
4300 meter camp, while ascending on
Inadequate Protection—Rappel Anchor 1990
Knot Failure, Alberta,
Alberta, Rocky
Rocky
the fixed-line Mountains,
onMountains,
the Mount
Mount
headwall, Joseph Rundle
Rundle
Dietrick (32) experienced a sudden
On July 2, 1989, two climbers were
beginning to rappel down the Rundle
Ridge area of Mount Rundle. The first
climber started rappelling using a
mechanical braking device. When he
was about six meters above the
0 37
ground, the rappel anchor sling knot
Multiple Bee Stings, California, Yosemite
1990ValleyCalifornia, Yosemite Valley
Early in October, I was on the second
belay ledge of a three pitch climb
called “The Caverns” in Yosemite
Valley’s Five Open Books area. My
friend, Robin Supplee, was following
up, cleaning the protection. About a
third of the way up the pitch, I felt a
0 38
sharp pain at my right calf. I looked
 No Rope, Climbing Alone, Unable to Downclimb,
1990 Jumped, Colorado,
Colorado, Boulder Canyon
Boulder Canyon
On June 24, 1989, Stephen Gilmore
(30), David McConnell (27) and
Annette Hailey (31) were out to climb
Cozyhangon “The Dome.” While
getting ready and waiting for another
party, Steve strolled off alone. Finding
an interesting face, he decided to
0 39
warm up by bouldering. After climbing
PROTECTION FAILED, FALL ON ROCK 1990 California, Yosemite
California, ValleyValley
Yosemite
At 0845 on June 20, 1989, Kent
Kroeker (31) came to my residence
saying that his climbing partner, Joe
Kristy (43) had fallen on El Capitan
and had broken his hip. I escorted him
to the SAR Cache where he met with
Shift Supervisor Mike Mayer.
0 40
Kroeker said that Kristy had taken a
Slip on Ice and Snow, Inadequate Equipment,
1990 Inexperience,
Alberta, Alberta,
Rocky
leader fall on the Rocky
Mountains,
30th Mountains,
pitch on JuneMount Joffre
Mount
Joffre
19 at 1300. They completed the route
On
withAugust 6, 1989, a party
Kristy jummarring. Theyofspent
three
(early 20s) was climbing ice and snow
on the north face of Mount Joffre.
They were roped together, using ice
screws for protection. About 1600, the
leader slipped, and pulled the other
0 41
two off the face. They tumbled out of
Snow Bridge Collapse, Fall into Bergschrund,
1990 Unroped,
British No Hard Hat,Coast
Columbia, British Columbia, Coast Mountains
Mountains,
Mount Tantalus
On the morning of August 5, 1989, 18
members of the North Shore Rescue
Team were beginning a three-day
training exercise in the Mount
Tantalus area. Bob McGregor (28)
and Darrell Freeman (25) were
0 42
approaching the bergschrund at 1980
Stranded, Climbing Alone, Dropped Rope,
1990California, Yosemite
California, Valley Valley
Yosemite
On May 22, 1989, at 1046, dispatch
received a call from an Awhanee
bellman concerning cries for help from
the Serenity Crack area.
Ranger Korthius responded and found
Dan M. Klein (32) stuck on the first
ledge of Serenity Crack. Klein said he
0 43
had been soloing the climb and self-
Stranded, Climbing Alone, Inexperience,
1990
Alberta,Alberta,
Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain
Rocky Mountains, Cascade
Mountain
On September 21, 1989, a lone
scrambler started climbing up the
southeast face of Cascade Mountain.
The terrain is complex and is third and
fourth class. He turned around before
reaching the summit, but could not
1 44
retrace his steps on the way down. He
 Stranded, Climbing Alone, Inexperience, 1990
California,
On Joshua Tree National
June 29,1989, Monumentand I
my daughter
were alerted by tourists that
somebody was yelling for help on the
back side of Intersection Rock. Upon
inspection, we found a solo climber
stranded approximately 20 meters off
the ground on “The Flake” (5.8).
Not having climbed the route before,
1 45
we found a climber in the vicinity who
Stranded, Inexperience, Failed to Follow1990
Route, Inadequate
knew the Equipment,
Colorado, RockyWe
route. Colorado,
Mountain
gave Rocky Mountain Nation
National
him enough
Park
equipment to facilitate reaching the
On August 16, 1989, John Berry (19),
Aaron Duncan (19), Quesnell Hartland
(20), Dennis Schutzenhofer (39), and
Erik Wobus (18) attempted the North
Face route on Longs Peak. The group
was without proper technical
1 46
equipment, having only a three-meter
Weather, Fall on Snow, Exposure, Alaska,1990
MountAlaska,
McKinleyMount McKinley
On February 16, 1989, a four-man
Japanese expedition flew into the
Kahiltna Basecamp to begin a winter
ascent of the West Buttress. The
group leader, Noboru Yamada (39),
was climbing Mount McKinley as part
of a quest to climb the highest
0 47
mountain on each of the seven
Weather, Fall on Snow, Inadequate Protection,
1990 Rapid Ascent,
Alaska, Alaska,
Mount Mount McKinley
McKinley
The British Denali Expedition of Chris
Massey (39), John Lang (45), and
Julian Dixon (37) flew onto the
Kahiltna Glacier on May 1, 1989, to
begin their ascent of the West Rib of
Mount McKinley. On the 17th, they
made their attempt of the summit from
0 48
a camp at 5000 meters. A poor
Weather, Inadequate Protection—Tent vs. 1990
Snow Cave, Alaska,
Alaska, MountMount McKinley
McKinley
On July 13, 1989, at 0900, Rainier
Mountaineering, Inc., guide Curt
Hewitt (38) was blown from his camp
near 5000 meters on the West
Buttress of Mount McKinley while in
his tent. Hewitt freed himself of the
tent 180 meters down the slope.
0 49
Although treated for hypothermia by
Weather, Inadequate Protection—Tent vs. 1990
Snow Cave, andMount
Alaska, Clothing, Alaska, Mount McKinley
McKinley
On May 27, 1989, three members of a
guided expedition on Mount McKinley
were blown off the West Buttress from
a camp near 5200 meters while
resting inside their tent. One occupant
of the tent, Assistant Guidejohn
Richards, was freed from the tent as it
0 50
began to slide. The two other
 dangling from the uphill side, but our
rope was not above me where Nina
had been. I began to cry out her
name. She responded, but I could not
see her because of the blocks of
Fall From Artificial Wall, Inadequate Protection,
1990 Washington,
Washington,
snow between REI
REI Headquarters
us. Headquarters
Sublime
It took me pleasures, smashing
several minutes to get free.
embarrassments,
She was disoriented andandextraordinary
not sure
good happened.
what fortune punctuate
She said myherlife.ankle
Today, sublime pleasure comes
hurt, but could walk. We immediately from
sitting in front of my computer,
walked up a ramp out of the crevasse typing
with
on the mydownhill
fingers,side.
wiggling
We my toes,
anchored
listening to my clock tick.
ourselves to the snow with our axes
0 51
Smashing embarrassment
about ten meters away fromcame the a
Fall into Crevasse—Snow Bridge Collapse,
1990Washington,
few Mount Rainier
crevasse. I was afraid we were I
weeks ago on July 29 when
jumped offinjured
seriously the REIandheadquarters
needed help as
climbing
fast wall, stripped
as possible. three Camalots
We needed the park
radio in my pack, so I went back down
the ramp and dug it out. From then
on, we were in contact with park
personnel via radio. (Source: Mark
0 52 Ross)
Fall on Ice, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
1990Inadequate Equipment,
Colorado, Rocky Colorado,
Mountain Rocky
NationalMountain National Pa
Park
On September 24, 1989, John Ashby
(38) was attempting an unroped solo
ascent of thinly iced Alexander’s
Chimney (5.5) on the East Face of
Longs Peak. He was wearing Galibier
Superguide (single leather) boots, but
0 53
no crampons. Ashby slipped on an icy
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Equipment, Unclear
1990Leadership/Decision Making, New York, Adirondacks
New York, Adirondacks
On Saturday morning, March 11,
1989, Linda Hepburn (36) arrived with
four companions (Art Portmore,
Patrick Clark, Peter Osborne, and
Mike Douglass) at the base of Trap
Dike on Mount Colden. Hepburn had
no ice climbing experience and
0 55
apparently intended just to watch the
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
1990 Falling Rock,
Idaho, Idaho, Sawtooth
Sawtooth Mountains Mountains
On July 2, 1989, Louis Stur (65) fell to
his death from an unnamed mountain
near
Baron Peak. He was climbing with a
friend, Frank Kreusi (70). Here are
some excerpts from Kruesi’s report:
We arrived at the dry lake or meadow
0 56
where we were to stop just after noon.
Fall on Rock, Improper Procedure, Inadequate
1990 Belay,Louis Fatigue,
Illinois, CrabMiscommunication,
Orchard
announced, National
“Frank, you are Illinois, Crab Orchard N
Wildlife
Refuge
here. You’ll have a minimum of three
On May 31, 1989, an experiential
education program was involved in
the fourth day of a five day course
being conducted in southern Illinois in
the Crab Orchard National Wildlife
Refuge.
0 59
The curriculum called for rock
climbing and rappelling at an area
called Panthers Den, which offers an
excellent site for beginning climbers
 Fall on Rock, Off Route, Inadequate Protection,
1990 NoNewHard Hat, Inexperience,
Hampshire, NewNotch
Franconia Hampshire, Franconia N
On August 4, 1989, two climbers
(both 35) from Philadelphia were
having obvious trouble on the
Whitney-Gilman Ridge (5.7). We
chose a 5.8 variation, and they
decided to follow us. I was belaying a
client on the last pitch. The leader of
0 61
that party fell without a sound. He was
Fall on Rock, Off Route, Protection Pulled
1990Out, No HardCarolina,
North Hat, Inexperience,
Hanging North
Rock Carolina,
State Hanging Rock
Park
While climbing the second pitch of
Zoo View (no previous experience
with the route) 5.7+, I could not figure
out crux sequences. Instead, I
traversed right and up. I did not
realize it at the time, but I had crossed
0 62
onto another route, Bimbo Bulge.
Fall on Rock, Off Route, South Dakota,1990
Needles/Black
SouthHills
Dakota, Needles/Black Hills
On May 29, 1989, Cristina Cerrutti
(31), Jim Bjork (29), Stephen Gillmore
(30) and David McConnell (27) of
Minnesota were climbing in the Ten
Pins area. Cristina was leading
Tricouni Nail (5.8) with Jim belaying.
About eight meters up, she clipped a
0 63
bolt and continued. About two meters
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Off1990
Route, Exceeding
Washington,Abilities, Washington,
Levenworth, Leavenworth,
Castle Rock Castle Ro
As part of the 1989 Seattle
Mountaineers Intermediate Climbing
Course Rock II field trip, six climbers
went to Castle Rock in Tumwater
Canyon near Levenworth on April 4.
They were to climb the Sabre Route
as part of their course training. There
0 64
were two instructors and four
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, 1990 Wyoming,Tetons
Wyoming, Tetons
On July 6, 1989, Ralph Trover (40)
and Joe Kelsey (50), Exum Mountain
Guides, successfully took clients
Tamara Martin and Wesley Jones up
the Grand Teton. At 1800, the four
were descending the steep snowfield
on the Lower Saddle headwall. Kelsey
0 65
was going first down the snow,
Fall on Snow—Into Moat, Inexperience,1990Fatigue, Washington,
Washington, Chikamin
ChikaminPeak
Peak
Randy Schaffer (33) and Michael
Wessels (31) were descending from a
climb of Chikamin Peak about 1430
on Sunday, July 9, when Schaffer
slipped on a snow slope at the 1725-
meter level above the Cascade Crest
Trail. He fell into his companion,
0 66
Wessels, knocking him out of his
 Fall or Slip on Rock, Failure to Follow Route,
1990 Washington,
Washington, Mount Thompson
Mount Thompson
On October 15, 1983, Edward
Henderson (47), Johanna Backus
(45), Sherman Ackley (46), and Roger
Ehret (52) set out to climb the West
Ridge of Mount Thompson. Although
the weather was clear, the route was
covered with ice.
0 67
Rather than give up our objective, we
Fall or Slip on Rock, Falling Rock, Failure
1990to Follow
On Route,toWashington,
September
decided to Mount
24, 1989,
traverse Thompson
theRoberta
third class,
Mohrholz (32) and Jalen Johansen
East Ridge route. Once on the route,
(32) set out on
we dropped ourwhat was gear,
climbing to be ataking
training hike and easy scramble up
Mount Thompson. Roberta had left a
route map with her fiance, Dave
Whalen. Both Roberta and Jay were
in top physical condition and were
0 68
using this outing to train for various
Falling Rock, Weather, Wyoming, Wind1990 River Range, MountWind
Wyoming, Warren
River Range, Mount
Warren
On July 24, 1989, National Outdoor
Leadership School leader Phil
Peabody set out at 0620 with three
students, David Black (24), Justin
Burchett (16), and Rob Hirschfield
(20), to attempt Mount Warren via the
0 69
Northeast Couloir—the Spider
Falling Rocks—Dislodged By Climber,1990 Fall on Rock, Colorado,
Colorado, Boulder
Boulder Canyon
Canyon
On October 25, 1989, Farrell
Ballenger (42) and Loren Trout (44)
planned to climb from Castle Rock in
Boulder Canyon West along a mostly
buried aquaduct to Baker Reservoir in
Nederland. Trout had done the route
several times before and knew it well.
0 70
At two or three places, a rock arête
Fatigue, Exposure, Exceeding Abilities,1990
Hypothermia, Slip or Fall
Washington, on Snow,
Mount Washington, Mount Rainier
Rainier
On May 8, 1989, Larry Duin (26),
Peter Derdowski (26), Richard
Mooney (31), and Steven Newell (27)
left Ipsut Campground for a summit
climb of Mount Rainier via Liberty
Ridge with a planned ski descent via
Emmons Col. Duin, Mooney, and
0 71
Newell had considered the same
Faulty Use of Crampons—Jumping Crevasse,1990 Oregon,
Oregon,Mount HoodHood
Mount
On June 11, 1989, while descending
from a climb of Mount Hood, a rope
team of four Mazamas reached the
bergschrund, about 3250 meters. At
this time and location, the ’schrund
was opened about 60 cm wide and 40
cm high. Snow conditions were
0 72
reported good, crampons were
 was that Ranger Lanny Johnson said
that when he talked to them in the
Jenny Lake Ranger Station, they told
him they might look at climbing the
North Face of the Grand Teton. This
Inadequate Protection—Rappel Failure,1990 route
Anchor Sling, was Parted,
Knot
Washington, in bad
Icicle condition
Washington,
Creek Canyon due to the
Icicle Creek Canyon
weather. The prediction
On August 28, 1989, Gretchen Glatte was for more
bad
(23) weather.
fell about 20 meters, breaking her
For
neck, allelbow
of theseandreasons,
both wrists, I started
and an
extensive search of both
collapsing a lung when the sling being the East
Ridge
used for andanNorth
anchor Face of theher
to lower
mountain. Their camp
parted. (Source: From was a reportlocated
by at
the baseWatson)
Richard of the East Ridge on July 27
0 73 about 1400. Their
(Editor’s Note: Thissleeping
is the fifthbags were
report
Inadequate Protection—Rappel Failure,1990
Knot Parted,
in Washington,
Washington,
of their
this kind Tonasketfor
tent.ofTohasket
accident Crags
Crags1989: two
On
NPS July 24, three
climbing
in Canada, 1989, inGary
Rangers Hickenbottom
the spotted
United the
States
(39) plunged
climbers 12 meters
—all narratives presented in this just
from the air to
about the
1500ground,
breaking
south both
of the legs and
Second a heel,
Tower when
on the
his rappel
East Ridge. ropes
Theyparted.were off (Source:
route and
Gary Hickenbottom)
descending a very dangerous gully.
Analysis
Since we could not land where the
Improperly
climbers set up
were, werappel—a
slingloaded knotsome
0 74
evidently
food and a failed.
radioDon’t get in We
in to them. a hurry.
then
Inexperience, Protection Pulled Out, Fall
1990
on Rock,Washington,
Washington,
Proper Icicle
ofIcicle Creek
Creek
flew twouseclimbing knots. (Source:
rangers to theGarybase
On April 29, 1989, I was assigned to
Hickenbottom)
of Teepee’s Snow Field where they
lead three students, Tom Del Carlo
could watch the climbers and talk to
(30), Bob Dalby, and Ken Wells, up a
them by radio. We were convinced
multipitch route known as “B & D” on
that if they continued down the gully
the east side of Wadell’s Buttress.
they would very likely be injured by
The weather was clear, but rain the
rock fall. While trying to traverse out
previous few days had turned the first
0 75 of the gully, Volkov fell and was
pitch into a small waterfall. The sound
Lightning, North Carolina, Hanging Rock1990 momentarily
State Park
North Carolina, knocked
Hanging unconscious
Rock State
when
Park he slipped on a wet rock. A
severe thunder storm
On March 18, 1989, Staff Sargeant was in the area
that deposited five centimeters
Lynn Tiegdan was struck and killed of rain
by
in the valley.
lightning on Moore’s Wall. The storm
Due to thejust
occurred weather,
after 1400. rock Tiegdan
fall hazard was
and approaching darkness,
part of a group of climbers who we
decided it was in
sought shelter toowhatdangerous
they thoughtto get
0 76 rescuers to Volkov andThe Burcalow’s
was a protected area. strike
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Oregon,
1990 North SisterNorth
Oregon,
location. Sister Kimbrough
Park ranger
The following accident
talked to Volkov by radio onandMaytold 13,him
1989, was reported as
that we wanted them to find a place tofollows:
All my information
bivouac, which theyis did. secondhand.
We flew two As
a result
more of head
rangers to injuries,
the baseI have no
of Teepee’s
memory ofsothe
snowfield thatclimb.
theyI could
belayed getmy to the
partner onto
climbers in thethemorning.
glacier. I decided to
glissade,
After lost control,
an 0500 start, rangerswent by my
0 77
partner “in perfect
Woodmency, Jackson, self-arrest
Kimbroughposture,
Overdue, Off Route, Exceeding Abilities,
1990
Poor Position, Weather, Wyoming, Tetons
and Ortenberger reached the climbers
at 1000. At 1800, the four climbing
rangers arrived at the base camp of
the East Ridge with Volkov and
Burcalow. After breaking down the
camp, all of the climbers were flown to
the Lupine Meadows Rescue Cache.
0 78 (Source: Scott Berhenfield)
 Stranded, Climbing Alone and Unroped,1990
New Hampshire, Cathedral Cathedral
New Hampshire, Ledge Ledge
In January of 1989, a man (25)
became stranded on Cathedral
Ledge, feeling he could not go up or
down. He yelled to someone on the
ground to lower a rope, but he had no
rope. So the climber asked him to go
buy one, but the man had no money.
1 79
So the climber threw $200 in twenty
Stranded, Lost, Party Separated—Disagreement,
1990 New
NewHampshire,
Hampshire, Mount Washington
Mount Washington
In January of 1989, two climbers
(30ish) completed the Pinnacle Gully
route and bivouacked at the top of it.
The next morning, the two parted
ways because they were not getting
along. One reached the road that day,
the other got lost. A search was
0 80
begun. The second climber was found
Weather, Fatigue, Failure to Follow Route,
1990Fall orWashington,
Slip on Rock,Mixup
Washington,
Peak Mixup Peak
On August 18, 1989, Tim Backman
(30) and David Newton (36) ascended
Mixup Peak in North Cascades
National Park. They began the climb
in fog from Gun Sight Notch. Off
route, the 4th class climb became a
5th class climb. Finally finding the top,
0 83
they summited at 1330, but unable to
Anchor Failure while Lowering off, Alberta,
1991 Rocky Mountains,
Alberta, RockyCascade Mountain
Mountains, Cascade
Mountain
During a climb of Mother’s Day (5.6)
in April, 1990, the leader placed a
Friend and used it to lower back
down. This anchor pulled out and he
fell about three meters to a ledge,
sustaining a broken ankle. He was
0 84
grabbed by a companion and saved
Avalanche, Inadequate Preperation and 1991
Route Selection,
Alberta,Alberta,
RockyRocky Mountains,
Mountains, Mount Mount Andromeda
Andromeda
The morning of September 4, 1990,
dawned with pristine clarity in the
Columbia Icefields area. R.D. and
J.E., both of Salt Lake City, Utah, had
just arrived to do some ice climbing
and were already en route to “Photo
0 85
Finish,” a smear of ice on the
Cerebral Edema, Party Seperated, Inexperience,
1991 Alaska,
Alaska,Mount
MountMcKinley
McKinley
On May 27, 1990, a three member
Sophia University expedition flew onto
the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna
Glacier of Mount McKinley to climb
the West Buttress. The three
inexperienced climbers reached the
5250 meter camp on June 11. Atuhiro
0 86
Onodera (23) had a headache and no
 Failure to Test Protection, Anchor Slng 1991
Failure, Fall on Rock,
Alberta, Alberta,
Rocky Rocky Mountain,
Mountains, Spray Spray Slabs
Slabs
Spray Slabs is a practice area near
Banff. In July, 1990, a leader (46)
climbed a short distance above his
belayer, clipped into a very old 9 mm
webbing sling on a piton, and
committed his weight to it. The knot
0 88
held, but the sling broke and the
Fall in Crevasse, Unroped, Alberta, Rocky
1991
Mountains, French
Alberta, Glacier
Rocky Mountains, French
Glacier
A party of three was traveling,
unroped, down the French Glacier on
the morning of August 13, 1990, when
one of them, D.D., fell into a crevasse.
He was unable to extricate himself,
but managed to hook the lip of the
0 89
crevasse with his ice ax for support
Fall into Crevasse, Unroped, Alberta, Rocky
1991 Mountains,
Alberta,Mount
RockyWhite PyramidMount
Mountains,
White Pyramid
Early in February, 1990, ten members
of the ACC Calgary Section set off to
try a winter ascent of White Pyramid
(3277 meters) from the north. On
February 4, they left their camp by a
small lake just north of the mountain,
0 90
and proceeded to ski up the valley
Fall into Crevasse, Unroped, Public on Glacier,
1991 Alberta,
Alberta,Rocky
RockyMountains, Athabasca
Mountains, Glacier
Athabasca
Glacier
July 25, 1990, was a warm, sunny
day, as a family of four from Calgary,
Alberta, stopped at the Columbia
Icefields in Jasper National Park and
took a walk on the Athabasca Glacier.
The oldest child, Tyson (10), was
0 91
lightly dressed. About 1700, he ran
Fall on Avalanche Debris, Fatigue, Alberta,
1991RockyAlberta,
Mountains, Mount
Rocky Rundle Mount
Mountains,
Rundle
On March 10, 1990, after completing
ice climbs of Professor’s Gully and
Under the Volcano, Greg G. was
descending the slopes of Mount
Rundle, which are broken by cliff
bands. He removed his crampons to
0 92
downclimb the first cliff and continued
Fall on Ice, Ice Tools Pulled through Melting
1991 Ice, Colorado,
InadequateRocky
Protection, Weather,
Mountain Colorado, Rocky Moun
National
Park, Hallett Chimney
On May 13, my partner and I (32) set
out for Hallett Chimney. The weather
was warming, and a sunny day
expected, following a great many
spring snowstorms. This day,
temperatures were expected to rise
0 94
as high as 10 degrees C, although we
 Fall on Ice, Inadequate Equipment, Colorado,
1991 Boulder Canyon
Colorado, Boulder Canyon
On February 9, Gary Wheeler (33) fell
15 meters and slid another 30 meters,
landing at the base of a waterfall and
against a tree.
Wheeler had climbed the waterfall,
tied a rope around a tree, and walked
down a dirt path to give his partner
0 95
the one pair of crampons they had.
Fall on Ice, Placed no Protection, California,
1991 Mount Shasta Mount Shasta
California,
In July, a party of four climbers
attempted the Hotlum Glacier route on
Mount Shasta. Parts of this route are
covered in hard ice on which self-
arrest is difficult. The climbers
traveled in two two-man roped teams,
and used ice axes and crampons.
0 96
While traveling over a section of hard
Fall on Ice, Roped but not Belayed, Alberta,
1991 Rocky Mountains,
Alberta, Rocky Mount Aberdeen
Mountains, Mount
Aberdeen
The initial pitches of the North Glacier
route of Mount Aberdeen consist of
35-degree ice, usually bare in
summer. On July 14, 1990, two
climbers were roped together and
moving simultaneously up this section
0 97
without protection when the lower one
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Inadequate
1991 Footwear, California,
California, Yosemite
Yosemite Valley
Valley
On July 18, Amy Khoo (19), Matthew
Enu (24) and a newly met climbing
partner, Joey Chiarucci (26) were
using technical climbing equipment to
climb the lower Yosemite Falls
waterfall route, just to the east of
lower Yosemite Falls. They completed
0 98
this climb safely, and then secured
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, No Hard 1991Hat, Intoxicated,
California,California,
Yosemite Yosemite
Valley Valley
Around 1830 on July 15, Troy
Johnson (22) met with Bill Russell.
Russell stated Johnson at that
particular time was intoxicated, yet
expressed his desire to perform a solo
over the Church Bowl. According to
Russell, Johnson was climbing a route
0 99
currently known as “Revised,” rated at
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Placed1991 no Protection, California,
California, Yosemite
Yosemite Valley
Valley
On July 10, while free soloing
Comfortably Numb, a 5.10 climb on
Cottage Dome, Susan Green (21) fell
about 15-24 meters, landing upright
on both feet. He then slid an
additional 20 meters down a slab,
sliding over one additional three meter
0 100
drop. Nearby climbers hiked out and
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Exceeding
1991 Abilities, California,
California, YosemiteYosemite
Valley Valley
On August 2, about noon, Matthew
Tomlinson (28) fell while lead climbing
Keystone Corner (5.8) at Five and
Dime Cliff. He was flown by Helicopter
51 from the scene to the Yosemite
Medical Clinic where he was
pronounced dead at 1600.
0 101
An interview with his climbing partner,
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection—Rope1991on Tape, Inexperience,
Alberta,
Denise Alberta,
Rocky(32),
Brown Mountains,Rocky
revealedRockMountains, Rock Gard
the
Gardens
following. (Jasper)
On April 5, 1990, around 1630, two
climbers, Sean (17) and David (23),
ventured off the Rock Gardens, a rock
outcrop popular with the locals, and
established a top rope at an existing
two-bolt anchor. The rope was passed
0 102
through a carabiner which allowed
Fall on Rock, Insufficient Protection, Alberta,
1991 Rocky Mountains,
Alberta, RockyBarrier BluffsBarrier
Mountains,
Bluffs
While leading the route called Cadillac
Jack on June 3, 1990, T.C. fell and
struck a ledge. Her partner lowered
her to the ground, where it was
obvious she had severely injured her
right ankle. Numerous other climbers
0 103
assisted the victim, applying a splint
Fall on Rock, No "Spotting" Protection,1991
British Columbia, Purcell Mountains,
British Columbia, Vowell Group
Purcell Mountains,
Vowell Group
A large group from the ACC General
Mountaineering Camp below the
Vowell Glacier were bouldering at
Tamarack Glen above the north
margin of the glacier on July 27, 1990,
when one of them, J.D., lost her
0 104
balance on a ledge, and dropped to
Fall on Rock, No Protection, Alberta, Rocky
1991 Mountains,
Alberta,Grotto
RockyCreek
Mountains, Grotto
Creek
On May 20, 1990, W.M. fell while
climbing on Grotto Slabs, sustaining
cuts, scrapes, and bruises to his left
hand, right thigh, and the right side of
his rib cage. He continued climbing for
a while, before leaving with his
0 105
companions to see whether a cut in
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Colorado
1991 Longs Peak Longs Peak
Colorado,
On April 15, Randy Joseph (33) fell
suddenly and without warning during
a lead on Longs Peak of Alexander’s
Chimney. Conditions were mixed thin
ice and bare rock, with protection
mostly rock devices. Joseph had
removed his crampons for a short
0 106
stretch. He fell about ten meters,
 Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inexperience,
1991 Alberta,Rocky
Alberta, Rocky Mountains,
Mountains, Cascade Mountain
Cascade
Mountain
In July, 1990, a climber (19) fell while
leading on cliffs just left of the
Cascade waterfall. His first protection,
a Friend, pulled out. The next one, a
chock, held, but the victim fell about
ten meters onto 60 degree rock,
0 107
breaking a wrist and an ankle. His
Fall on Rock, Unroped, Alberta, Rocky 1991
Mountains, Mount Rocky
Alberta, Rundle Mountains, Mount
Rundle
In July, 1990, Martin (20) was
scrambling unroped on slabs several
hundred meters above the practice
area on the east face of Mount
Rundle when he fell, apparently at
least 50 meters. His body was found
0 108
after he was reported missing by
Fall on Snow and Ice, No Belay, Alberta,
1991
Rocky Mountains, MountMountains,
Alberta, Rocky Temple Mount
Temple
On August 1, 1990, a party of two
climbed the Aemmer) snow couloir
variant to the East Ridge route on
Mount Temple and scouted out the
rest of the route. Because of
deteriorating weather, they decided to
0 109
retreat down the couloir. They were
Fall on Snow and Rock, Alberta, Rocky1991Mountains, MountRocky
Alberta, Blakiston
Mountains, Mount
Blakiston
On July 7, 1990, a party of five
climbed the Class 4 south gully on
Mount Blakiston. They were beginning
their descent by traversing a small,
moderately angled slope when the
leader slipped and slid 15 meters into
0 110
rocks, suffering a broken tibia and
Fall on Snow, Avalanche, Inadequate Equipment,
1991 Alaska, Bold Peak
Alaska, Peak
On June 3, 1990, two experienced
Alaskan mountaineers set out to climb
Bold Peak (2286 meters) located in
the Eklutna Lake area of the Chugach
Mountains. They planned the ascent
to take two days, the first for the
approach and the second for ascent,
0 111
descent, and departure. The
Fall on Snow, Failure to Follow Route, 1991
Placed no California,
Protection, Mount
California, Mount Shasta
Shasta
On September 2, Lawrence Macupa
(38) and David Vanderryn (32)
climbed the Hotlum glacier route on
Mount Shasta. The “normal” descent
for the Hotlum glacier route is to go
down the Hotlum-Wintun (“Hottun”)
snowfield. They went off-route and
0 112
descended a snowfield that steepens
 Fall on Snow, Inexperience, Alaska, Eklunta
1991 Glacier
Alaska, Eklutna Glacier
On July 13, five climbers were injured,
one critically, in a 60 meter fall on
Eklutna Glacier. The climbers, part of
an 18-member international
expedition, tumbled down the glacier
on Saturday afternoon and were
stranded until early Sunday morning.
1 113
They were airlifted to Providence
Fall on Snow, Not Wearing Crampons, 1991
California,California,
Mount Shasta
Mount Shasta
On June 11, 1989, Richard Ferrell
(45) and his brother Brett Ferrell (31)
were climbing on Sergeants Ridge on
Mount Shasta. They had ice axes and
were carrying (but not wearing)
crampons. Richard Ferrell either
slipped or was knocked down by
0 114
falling debris. He slid/tumbled about
Fall on Snow, Placed no Protection, Exposure,
1991 Alaska,
Alaska,Mount Mckinley
Mount McKinley
On May 16, 1990, the three member
“Washington Square” party of Mary
Koshuta, Michael Koshuta (33) and
Stuart Jones (29) flew into the 2200
meter basecamp on
Mount McKinley. Their objective was
first to acclimatize on the West
0 115
Buttress, then Mr. Koshuta and Jones
Fall on Snow, Roped but not Belayed, Inexperience,
1991 British
British
would Columbia,
Columbia,
ascend RockyMountains,
the Rocky
Cassin Mountains, Mount Robson
Ridge.
Mount Robson
At approximately 1230 on August 21,
1990, Kofler and Herbst (30) were
descending from the summit of Mount
Robson. Herbst fell and slid down the
southwest side of the ridge they were
on, pulling Kofler off. Both fell
0 116
approximately 75 meters, flying over a
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, California,
1991 Mount Conness
California, Mount Conness
On October 7 at 1530, Deputy Randy
Hysell, the SAR Coordinator for the
Mono County Sheriff s Office, called
me, requesting the park’s assistance
with a rescue. His information was
second-hand at that time; he had
been told only that a climber on the
0 117
Conness Glacier (adjacent to the park
Fall on Snow/Ice, Unroped, British Columbia,
1991 Purcell Mountains,
British Columbia,Vowell Group
Purcell Mountains,
Vowell Group
On August 1, 1990, two climbers were
descending snow and ice unroped,
about 50 meters below the summit of
Peak 9250 (north of Little Howser)
when one of them slipped on loose
rock under his crampon, and tumbled
0 118
about ten meters, badly injuring his
 on up to the summit is probably the
single greatest cause of altitude
deaths on mountaineering
expeditions. A victim of altitude illness
who cannot walk a straight line or
Falling Rock, Weather, Exceeding Abilities, appears
1991 California, to Mount
Mount
California, have
Shastapulmonary
Shasta edema
must never be left
In early January, Lorca alone.Rossman
The
appropriate action is to
(19), Roman Hruska (19), and Nic descend
immediately,
Rhind (23) were andturned
not to back
have from
the
victim descend by himself.
their summit attempt due to high
The
winds decision
which wereto notblowing
turn around
rocksondownthe
ascent,
from theand to bivouac
ridges at 5950 meters
above Avalanche
with
Gulch.anThey
obviously
were very
nearilltheman may
3975
0 119 have
meterbeen
level due,
whenintheypart,began
to hypoxia.
to
HAPE, Desire to Do Well, Alaska, Mount 1991McKinley
Alaska,
The factMount
that theyMcKinley
couldn’t find the trail
Craig Scott (30)
down the next day, wasnora member
drag himofdowna
RMI expedition
across to climb
easy terrain becausethe West
they
Buttress
were routepoor
in such on Mount
condition,McKinley.
points to
The expeditiondue
incapacitation flewtoonto the Kahiltna
altitude,
Glacier on June
exhaustion 2, 1990.
and other Scott was a
environmental
triathlete and was doing very well
conditions.
throughout
In summary,the climb.
this caseOn June 7,the
illustrates the
0 120
expedition
classic reached
causes the 4260
of death meter
due to altitude
HAPE, Frostbite, Party Seperated, Inexperience,
1991 Weather, Alaska, Mount McKinley
illness: (1) lack of recognition that a
person is seriously ill; (2) leaving a
sick person behind while the rest of
the group continues on; and (3) the
deteriorating condition of an entire
group of climbers under extreme
conditions. (Source: Dr. Peter H.
0 121 Hackett)
Loose Rock, Alberta, Rocky Mountains,1991Grand Sentinel
Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Grand
Sentinel
The Grand Sentinel is a 100 meter
quartzite pillar on the north slopes of
Pinnacle Mountain, and Sentinel Pass
which joins it to the southwest corner
of Mount Temple. On August 11,
1990, two ACC rope teams were
0 122
climbing different routes on this spire
Loose Rock, Unroped Fall, Alberta, Rocky
1991Mountains, Grassi
Alberta, Lakes
Rocky Area
Mountains, Grassi
Lakes area
While hiking with friends near
Canmore on September 22, 1990,
Mark undertook some solo climbing
on the rock faces next to the second
lake. He was about three meters off
the ground when a handhold broke.
0 123
He fell to the ground, turning around
Protection Pulled Out, Fall on Rock, California,
1991 Owens GorgeOwens Gorge
California,
On June 17 a friend, Courtney Smith
(?), fell while climbing in Owens
Gorge in eastern California. The climb
he was on started from a three meter
high ledge, ascending about five
meters to the first bolt and then on up.
He got on the ledge, didn’t like the
0 124
distance to the first bolt, and protected
 Scalded by Boiling Water, British Columbia,
1991 Purcell Mountains,
British Bugaboo
Columbia, Group
Purcell Mountains,
Bugaboo Group
On August 4, 1990, C.F. and B.F.
were cooking in camp above Conrad
Kain Hut when a pot of boiling water
was knocked off a Svea stove and
over the boots of C.F. Second-
degree burns to both ankles resulted.
0 125
The victim was evacuated from the
Slip on Loose Rock, Unroped British Columbia,
1991 Rocky
BritishMountain,
Columbia,Mount Assiniboine
Rocky Mountains,
Mount Assiniboine
In August, 1990, two climbers were
descending the northeast ridge of
Mount Assiniboine after a successful
ascent. Two rappels down the ridge,
one of them (54) was traversing
unroped toward another rappel
0 126
anchor when he slipped on loose rock
Slip on Scree and Rock, Unprotected, Alberta,
1991 Rocky Mountains,
Alberta, Rocky Mount Temple
Mountains, Mount
Temple
On August 13, 1990, a lone climber
was descending the “tourist route” on
Mount Temple. It is speculated that he
went slightly off route at the grey cliff
band where the scree trails branch off
in various directions, slipped on scree
0 127
overlying bedrock, and fell down cliffs
Slip on Snow, Inappropriate Equipment/Technique,
1991 Alberta,
Alberta, RockyMountains,
Rocky Mountains,Mount
Mount Lefroy
Lefroy
On the morning of July 7, 1990, a
party of two were descending the
west face of Mount Lefroy, unroped.
While glissading, sitting and wearing
crampons, one of them accelerated
out of control. One of his crampons
0 128
caught in the snow, flipping him over
Stranded on Waterfall Ice, British Columbia,
1991 Coast Mountains,
British Pemberton
Columbia, CoastArea
Mountains,
Pemeberton Area
On December 22, 1990, three ice
climbers were on a waterfall at Soo
Bluffs. The leader, N.Z. (29), got to
within about eight meters of the top of
the pitch, and then was unable to
continue or place a belay, partly due
1 129
to thin ice. He dropped the rope so
Stranded, Climbing Alone, Failure to Test
1991
Hold—Falling
Alberta,Rock,
RockyUnroped, Alberta,
Mountains, Rocky Mountains, Grot
Grotto
Canyon
On August 4, 1990, off-duty ranger
M.S. was climbing with a partner in
Grotto Canyon, when they found D.K.
stranded on a ledge some 20 meters
up the face of the His and Hers
waterfalls. D.K. requested help in
1 130
getting down, as he had pulled a rock
 Stranded, Dropped Rope, California, Yosemite
1991 Valley
California, Yosemite Valley
On October 15, after completing a
single pitch 5.7 route in the Church
Bowl area called Uncle Fannie
Hoffman, Matthew (19) lowered his
partner to the ground from a ledge
and accidentally dropped his only
rope. Due to impending darkness, he
0 131
remained at the belay ledge and sent
Stranded, Inadequate Equipment, Weather,1991Exposure, Exceeding
Colorado, LongsAbilities,
Peak Colorado, Longs Peak
On January 14 at 0900, Mark
Swinnerton (34) and Danny Pyatt (34)
passed by rangers Kurt Oliver and
Jim Detterline at the Chasm Meadows
Cabin below the East Face of Longs
Peak. The rangers informed the
climbers that a storm was beginning,
0 132
ice/snow conditions were marginal on
Stranded, Solo Ice Climbing, Alberta, Rocky
1991 Mountains,
Alberta,Cascade
Rocky Mountian
Mountains, Cascade
Mountain
In December, 1990, a climber went to
solo the Cascade waterfall when his
partner decided not to go with him;
temperatures were around -25C. He
took a rope along, but his partner had
told him the descent was a walk-off,
1 133
so he left it at the base. He climbed
Avalanche, New Hampshire, Mount Washington,
1991 Tuckerman
New RavineMount Washington,
Hampshire,
Tuckerman Ravine
On March 30, 1990, the Mount
Washington area received about 20
cm of new snow, with winds greater
than 65 kph from the south. The
winds continued through the night.
At 0800 the next morning, with 20-40
0 134
cm of overnight wind deposited snow
Avalanche, Weather, Washington, Dragontail
1991 PeakW ashington,
noted Dragontail
in gullies Peak areas,
and catchment
Eric Simmonson (22) and
USFS Snow Rangers stationed his partner
in
(22) left the parking lot at Colchuck
Lake early on the morning of
November 3 to climb Dragontail’s
north face in a day. The pair climbed
up high on the route but decided to
quit and descend the route because
0 135
of freezing rain and snowfall. The
Fall on Ice, Poor Position, Inadequate Equipment,
1991 Inexperience,
New Hampshire,NewMeadows
Hampshire, Meadows Cliffs—Rumn
Cliffs—
Rumney
On January 27, 1990, Mark Jacobson
(23) and Zvi Cohen (22) were ice
climbing in the Meadows area in
Rumney, New Hampshire. They
completed one climb, rappelled off,
and began to look for another route.
0 136
As the temperature had risen above
 Fall on Rock, Chock Pulled Out, Inadequate
1991 Protection, Inexperience,
Washington, Washington,
Icicle Creek CanyonIcicle Creek Canyon
On April 15, I could not complete a
lead in mid-afternoon and was down
climbing/being lowered when the top
protection pulled out. The chock hit
me in the right eyebrow, breaking my
glasses, causing a nose bleed and
unconsciousness. I fell four to five
0 137
meters to hard ground landing on my
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Exceeding
1991 Abilities, FailedRocky
Colorado, to Follow Directions,
Mountain Colorado, Rocky Mou
National
Park, Longs Peak
On August 26 at noon, Spencer
Hannah (32) and another teacher
were leading a group of six juveniles
and another teacher from Campion
Academy, Loveland, Colorado, up the
North Face of Longs Peak. Ranger
1 138
Jim Detterline warned them not to
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Inexperience,
1991 Wyoming,
Wyoming,Grand
Grand Teton
Teton
About 2400 on June 26, Stephen
Stenger and Arthur Leech (34) left the
Lupine Meadows trailhead intending
to attempt a one day ascent of the
North Ridge of the Grand Teton. They
registered their climb with the Jenny
Lake Ranger Station.
0 139
They encountered difficult conditions
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Party 1991
Separated,Wyoming,
onProbable Thought
TheyProcess
Tetons,
the route. climbedImpairment,
Grand as high asWyoming, Teto
Teton
On September 16 at 1100, Russ
the “Chockstone,” about three or four
Soderlund
pitches above(40)the
was climbing
top of the the
Owen-Spalding route on the Grand
Teton with a friend, Gretchen Rupp.
Soderlund and Rupp left the Owen-
Spalding route above the rappel
station and traversed the southeast
0 140
side of the mountain, near the Exum
Fall on Rock, Equipment Failure, New Mexico
1991 New Mexico
Recently, an REI customer had an
accident while rock climbing in which
a carabiner broke. (He was not
injured, fortunately.) The customer
returned the carabiner to the
Albuquerque store, and our testing lab
examined the carabiner to find out
0 141
what went wrong. This story explains
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, Wyoming,
1991 Fremont Canyon
Wyoming, Fremont Canyon
TW (36) and EO (37) planned a
weekend (in August) of climbing in
Fremont Canyon. They arrived on
Saturday morning at 0900. To start
the day TW rappelled to the sloping
ledge just above the river at the
bottom of the canyon below the route
0 142
Hemateria, then proceeded to set up
 Fall on Rock, Failed to Follow Route, Exceeding
1991 Abilities,
New Placed
Mexico, Inadequate
Sandia Protection, Protection Pulled
Mountains,
Muralla Grande
Dave Kilgore (36), Don McIntyre (44),
and Steven Patchett (39) were
climbing the La Selva route (5.7) on
Muralla Grande in the Sandia
Mountains near Albuquerque, New
Mexico. Patchett had taken the
0 143
second lead and gotten off route at
Fall on Rock, Falling Rock, No Hard Hat,
1991
Exceeding
On Abilities, Washington,
May 5, after Index—Town
freeclimbing two- Wall
thirds of the way up the route, we
encountered water dripping down the
face. We continued to climb up into
the chimney. Mike freeclimbed up and
then sent down a rope. He had me on
belay as I climbed the chimney, back
to one wet wall, feet to the other wet
0 144
wall. About three to four meters up, I
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, No Hard1991
Hat, North
NorthCarolina, Moore's
Carolina, WallWall
Moore’s
On June 9, 1990, as a party of four,
we were planning to lead and follow
the route, Golden Earring, a 5.7. The
first two members of the party had
already led up a short 15 meter pitch.
Joe was then belayed up from the top.
Since the difficulty was very minor,
0 145
Joe belayed Cameron up the same
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Equipment, Fatigue,
1991 Washington,
Washington, Icicle Creek
Icicle Canyon
Creek Canyon
This accident occurred on April 15
while I was participating in an
Intermediate Rock 1 climbing course
field trip with the Mountaineers. The
subject of the class was the
placement of protection and leading.
The morning and early afternoon was
0 146
spent placing protection while top-
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Colorado,
1991 Rocky
ropedMountain
Colorado, Rocky
on the National
three Park,
Mountain
main Notchtop
National
cracks of
Park, Notchtop
Flake Slab. In the afternoon, while
On July 6 at 1600, Ulrich Moderl (22)
of Austria took a 15 meter fall from the
5.9 crux pitch of the South Ridge on
Notchtop. Moderl sustained a
fractured right ankle and pain in his
right knee and back. Martin Pircher,
0 147
Moderl’s partner, effected an
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, Idaho, City1991
of Rocks Idaho, City of Rocks
On June 25, Tim Herron (early 30s)
fell about five meters from Dire
Straights. He was held by his rope,
but he struck his head. He was
lowered to a rock formation below,
unconscious and having convulsions.
He was evacuated and flown to
0 148
Pocatello. He died on August 4.
 Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, New Hampshire,
1991 Cathedral Ledges
New Hampshire, Cathedral Ledges
On May 9, two climbers were going
up Standard on Cathedral when the
leader fell from Cave Wall about
1700. He suffered a concussion and
felt lower back pain. The New
Hampshire Mountain Rescue Service
did the carryout. (Source: George
0 149
Hurley, Mountain Guides Alliance)
Fall on Rock, Nut Pulled Out, No Hard 1991
Hat, New NewMexico, SandiaSandia
Mexico, Mountains
Mountains
On September 16, Jim Ladd (40) and
John Wright (39 had underestimated
the time for approaching the South
West Ridge route on the Needle (they
had left the car at 1100) as they were
having a difficult time locating the
beginning of the route, elected to start
0 150
up a gully on the formation to get
Fall on Rock, Poor Position, Exceeding 1991
Abilities, Colorado,
Colorado, Rocky
RockyMountain
MountainNational Park
National
Park
On August 23 at noon, Marcus Hall
(30) took a five meter leader fall from
La Chaim, a 5.7 route on the Pear.
Hall slipped while he was attempting
to clip the first bolt on the route. Jill
Wilson, Hall’s climbing partner, went
0 151
to get assistance from Rocky
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inadequate
1991 Protection,
Washington,Washington, IcicleCanyon
Icicle Creek Creek Canyon
The accident occurred on April 29,
during the final hours of a two day
rock climbing training session for
intermediate students from the Everett
Branch of The Mountaineers. The
weather was warm and sunny. Rock
conditions were excellent. The
0 152
students were practicing climbing
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled, No Hard
1991
Hat, Washington,
Washington,Snoqualmie Pass, Pass,
Snoqualmie The Tooth
The
Tooth
On August 11, Creth Edward Cupp
(31) and Joanne Metzler were
climbing the last pitch of the
Southwest Face of the Tooth, 5.6,
when leader Cupp fell 25 meters
pulling two pieces of protection before
0 153
being arrested. Metzler lowered Cupp,
Fall on Rock, Weather, Protection Pulled
1991
Out, NoColorado,
Hard Hat, Colorado, Rocky Mountain
Rocky Mountain National National Park, Su
Park, Sundance Buttress
On September 6, Richard Jakush (42)
and Bill Oswald were climbing Bonzo,
a 5.10 route on Sundance Buttress.
Jakush was leading the steep,
sustained climb, and he took a one
meter fall part way up. He continued
0 154
climbing and near the top it began to
 Fall on Snow, Climbing Alone, Loss of 1991
Ski Pole Baskets—Then
Idaho, Mount BorahSki Poles, Starvation, Idaho, Mount Bora
In early September, Paul Kovatch (40)
began his attempt of Mount Borah.
This was his seventh try, and nearly
ended his goal of reaching the highest
point in each state. Here is a portion
of the report he sent:
Dear Sirs of the Accident Booklet:
0 155
Were I to give the accident a heading,
Fall on Snow, Weather, Exceeding Abilities,
1991 Inadequate
it wouldEquipment,
Washington, Washington,
Snoqualmie,
be something Snoqualmie,
like Silver Peak
Climbing Silver Peak
On June 17, this accident occurred
Alone, Equipment Failure, Loss of Ski
while
Poles,aStarvation.
party of 11The “Alpine
equipment
Scramblers” were descending Silver
Peak. Lori Levin (30) reported the
following:
The leader and the group were in a
hurry to get home due to fog and rain.
0 156
The snow was especially icy and
Falling Rock, New Hampshire, Cannon 1991
Cliff New Hampshire,
slippery. I tried to Cannon
keep upCliff
and
In May, a climber was injured by
rockfall on the upper part of Union
Jack on Cannon. Other climbers have
reported loose rock on Cannon,
including on the Whitney- Gilman
arete, Fugue, and Vertigo. Routes on
Cannon are more dangerous than
0 157
most routes of the same grade on
Hand-Hold and Rock Anchor Came Out,1991 Fall/Slip,Washington,
Off Route, Washington, Mount Thompson
Mount Thompson
On July 22, five climbers left base
camp between Mount Thompson and
Bumblebee Pass at 0500 for a
Mountaineer’s led climb of the West
Ridge. Steve Sulzbacher led the
party, with Diane Magyary assistant
leader and designated first aid leader.
0 161
Other members included Randy
Lightning, Maine, Mount Katahdin, Baxter
1991State Park
Maine, Mount Katahdin, Baxter State
Park
On August 27, 1990, David
Passalacqua (13) was struck and
killed by lightning while hiking the
Knife Edge near Pamola Peak. He
was with a Boy Scout troop consisting
of ten Scouts and two leaders.
0 162
Another Scout and a leader were
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Fall
1991
into Crevasse, Improper
Washington, MountClothing,
BakerNo Hard Hat, Washington, M
On July 28, 1990, a party of 11 was
on three ropes descending the
Roman Wall on Mount Baker. At the
crest, the team led by Earl Crouse
(63) waited for the other two teams to
arrive from the pyramid at the summit.
When all had arrived, the lead team
0 163
started down the very steep part of
 Colorado, Rocky Mountain National
Park, Andrews Glacier
On June 14 at 1300, Mike Hill was
leading a group of 25 to 30 juveniles
from River Valley High School, Spring
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Inadequate
1991 Green,
Equipment
Washington,Wisconsin,
and in aPass
Instruction,
Stevens glissading
Exceeding
Ski AreaAbilities, Washin
class on Andrews Glacier.
While practicing head-first glissade A 17 year
old
andfemale
self-arrestfailed to maintainwith
procedures control,
a
and broke her right fibula
group of 40 students and 14 staff from while
glissading. Hill, a former EMT,
an Everett Mountaineers Scramblers
initiated
course on a self-rescue
May 16, 1990, withBrian
an
improvised
Fletcher (16) litter.
lost (Source:
his grip on Rocky
his ax
Mountain
and could National
not regain Park Rangers)
control. In the
0 164 Analysis
slide either the spike or pick end of
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Inadequate
1991 Equipment,
Wyoming,
During Wyoming,
Tetons,
an interview LowerTetons,
with Lower Saddle
Saddle
Hill, Park
On July 27, Shawn Callahan
Service investigators found out that (31) lost
control
the group during
had anot voluntary glissade on
been properly
the snow
briefed belowattempting
before the LoweractualSaddle,
near the practice.
glissade base of Middle The groupTeton. Analso
was
Exum Mountain
insufficiently Guide, Peter
supervised, Krantz,
as there
reported
were too the
many accident,
students indicating
per a
possible broken
instructor. leg. at the base of
The runouts
0 165
At 1400 Rangers
Andrews Glacier are Carrsomewhat
and Dorward
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Inadequate
1991 Instruction
were flown and
to Supervision,
just above thePoor Position, Colorado, Ro
accident
dangerous, ending in a deep, cold
site
alpine(southwest
lake on one of Garnet
part and Canyon
in talus on
Caves) at an elevation
another part. This kind exercise of 3200 meters
requires (1) doing more prebriefing,
(2) having more instructors per
student, and (3) using a different,
safer location. (Source: Rocky
0 166 Mountain National Park Rangers)
Rappel Anchor Inadequate, No Belay, No1991
Hard Hat,
WestWest Virginia,
Virginia, Cooper'sRock
Cooper’s RockState
State Forest
Forest
On Saturday, July 21, 1990, Dan
Audley (31), Marty Donahue and six
Boy Scouts stopped on their way
home from Camp Mountaineer to do
some rappelling. They were joined by
Scott Gray and Adam Dugas. The cliff
0 168
where they planned to do the
Slip on Ice, No Hard Hat, Washington, Mount
1991 Baker
Washington, Mount Baker
While descending Mount baker
around 2000 meters via Coleman-
Deming Glacier on September 9,
Steven Amber (27), Vincent Willard
(25) and Reese White (29)
approached the last slope directly
above their tent site on the Hogback
0 169
at 1700 after a successful climb.
Slip on Snow, Climbing Unroped, Failure
1991
to Follow Instruction,Mount
Washington, Washington,
Adams Mount Adams
On August 4, 1990, at 0500, a party of
three was climbing a moderate slope
in stable snow above a crevasse
about 3000 meters on Mount Adams’
Mazama Glacier. The weather was
fair, light winds, low 30 degree
temperature. Lee Kelly (58), the
0 170
leader, and Bonnie Bronson (50) were
 Stranded, Darkness, Falled to Follow Directions,
1991 Colorado,
Colorado,Rocky
RockyMountain
MountainNational
NationalPark, Longs Peak
Park, Longs Peak
On August 26 at 2200, members of
Rocky Mountain National Park’s
Search and Rescue Team were
involved in an evacuation at Longs
Peak’s Boulderfield when they heard
cries for help coming from the False
1 171
Keyhole area. Volunteers Jim Disney
Stranded, Weather, Route Finding Problem,
1991Colorado, RockyRocky
Colorado, Mountain National
Mountain Park, Longs Peak
National
Park, Longs Peak
On September 15, Jim Mauch (33)
and Cathy Casey (34) set out to climb
Kiener’s Route on Longs Peak.
Climbing conditions were somewhat
icy and the party was slowed down.
They spent the evening of September
1 173
16 without their bivouac equipment at
Weather, Exposure, Exceeding Abilities,1991
Washington, Mount Rainier
Washington, Mount Rainier
During the week of March 19-23,
1989, a ten-person Special Forces
Unit of the U.S. Army climbed from
Paradise to the Camp Muir area and
back for the purposes of testing
equipment and men in a winter
mountaineering and survival
0 175
environment. Three members were
Weather, Hypothermia, AMS, Oregon, Mount
1991 Hood Oregon, Mount Hood
On June 9, Cassandra Kelley (38)
was transported from the 3000 meter
level on the south side of Mount Hood
to Timberline Lodge. She was with a
Mazama group, and was experiencing
altitude sickness and hypothermia
symptoms on the ascent. The group
0 176
continued to the summit, where they
AMS, Inability to Communicate, Alaska,1992
Mount McKinley
Alaska, Mount McKinley
On June 21, 1991, Japanese climbers
Hiroshi Sakurai (28) and Hiroshi
Urayama (34) arrived at 15,500 feet
on the Haston-Scott route on the
south face of Mount McKinley.
The pair had ascended 3,500 feet
from the bottom of the face that day.
0 177
Urayama was struck with severe
Avalanche, British Columbia, Coast Mountains,
1992 Hudson
British Bay Mountain
Columbia,
Acute Mountain Coast Mountains,
Sickness and felt he
Hudson Bay Mountain
During a training exercise around
1700 on November 27, 1991, a six-
man Search and Rescue team was
struck by an avalanche. Three of
them were carried about 35 meters
and buried, while one of the others
0 179
was slightly injured and the remaining
 Cornice Collapse, Unroped, Inattention,1992
Alberta, Rocky
Alberta,Mountains, Saddle Mountain
Rocky Mountains, Saddle
Mountain
On January 29, 1991, about 1500,
Jacques and France had just
completed a ski ascent of Saddle
Mountain, with their dog
accompanying them. They were
walking along the corniced ridge to
0 180
the summit when France broke
CORNICE COLLAPSE, 1992 British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains,
INATTENTION, UNROPED, Asulkan Range, Mount Leda
CLIMBING ALONE On April 10, an experienced
mountaineer, Greg S. (40), registered
with the Warden Service at Rogers
Pass for ski mountaineering, and then
skied to Sapphire Col Hut and set
himself up for a stay of two nights.
0 181
With time left in the day, he decided to
Exposure, Weather, Inadequate Equipment,
1992Alaska, MountMount
Alaska, McKinley
McKinley
Late on July 3, 1991, Polish climber
Krzysztof Wiecha (28) began climbing
alone to the summit of Mount
McKinley from the 17,200 foot camp
on the West Buttress route. As
Wiecha approached the summit from
the 19,500 foot area, the weather
0 182
rapidly deteriorated with clouds, snow,
Failure to Communicate, Illness, Alaska,
1992
Mount McKinley
Alaska, Mount McKinley
On June 20, 1991, Larry Sorenson
(51) experienced what he believed
was a recurrence of acute colitis at
14,000 feet on the West Buttress of
Mount McKinley. Sorenson had also
complained of gastrointestinal pain
and discomfort beginning June 15. As
0 183
a result of these medical conditions,
Fall into Crevasse, Improperly Placed Belay
1992 Anchor, Poor Rocky
Alberta, Position,Mountains,
Alberta, Rocky
MountMountains, Mount Vic
Victoria
On August 19, 1991, David B., Ian F.,
and Renata S. were descending from
Abbot’s Pass hut around 0830, and
reached the bergschrund about 0900.
They decided to jump the ‘schrund
(about three meters) to a narrow
0 184
blade serac from which they could
Fall on Artificial Rock Wall, Handhold 1992
and Foothold Broke off
Colorado, at the Same Time, Colorado, Denver
Denver
On June 11, 1991, I came home from
work and went out to work on my
artificial climbing wall in the back yard.
The wall is approximately 20 feet long
by 13 feet tall. The “holds” are natural
rocks that were glued on the wall with
“highway reflector” cement. I’ve had
0 185
the wall for three years. I used to do
 Fall on Descent Trail, Weather, California,
1992Yosemite Valley, Yosemite
California, North Dome Gully North
Valley,
Dome Gully
On May 13, 1991, after having
completed an overnight climb of the
Royal Arches, Carter Phelps (49) and
climbing partner Ron Merkes (23)
attempted to descend to Yosemite
Valley via the North Dome gully. After
0 186
only a short way into the descent,
Fall on Ice, Equipment Failure, Exceeding
1992Abilities, RopedRocky
Alberta, but notMountains,
Belayed, Inadequate
Mount Equipment, Inexp
Andromeda
On October 7, 1991, Andrew H. and
Janies H. climbed the east ridge of
Mount Andromeda and reached the
east peak at 1605. After a break, they
started to descend the north bowl, at
which time Andrew lost one of his
0 187
crampons. They then had to move
Fall on Ice, Poor Position, Placed No Protection,
1992 Alaska,
Alaska,Mount
MountForaker
Foraker
On June 8, 1991, while descending an
icy couloir on approach to the Infinite
Spur on the south side of Mount
Foraker, William McConachie (McC—
39) fell and, unable to self-arrest,
tumbled past his partner, Laurent
Terray (30), who had started down
0 188
first, and jerked Terray from his feet.
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Inadequate
1992 Equipment,
Alberta,Exceeding Abilities, Inexperience,
Rocky Mountains, Lake Alberta, Rock
Louise Area, Castle Crags
Clarence and Lyle went hiking up
toward Castle Crags on August 5,
1991. From the Plain of Six Glaciers
trail, they scrambled up a large scree
gully southeast of Lake Louise and
then up some class-four rock,
0 190
reaching the top of a pinnacle around
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities , Colorado,
1992 Rocky Mountain
Colorado, National
Rocky Park, Petit
Mountain Grepon
National
Park, Petit Grepon
On July 6, 1991, at 1200, Mike Dobry
(24) took a lead fall on the 5.8 crux of
the South Face of Petit Grepon in
Rocky Mountain National Park. He
sustained an open fracture of his right
ankle. His partner/belayer, Jon
0 191
Stewart (22) was unable to lower him
Fall on Rock, Exposure, Weather, Inadequate
1992 Clothing, California,
California, MountMount Whitney
Whitney
On September 6, 1991, Reeves Magi
(40ish) and Douglas Siegfried (35ish)
were attempting the East Buttress
Route on Mount Whitney. At 1600
their calls for help were heard by
other climbers at East Face Lake.
One yelled that the other was hurt and
0 192
hypothermic. Two climbers started up
 Fall on Rock, Falling Rock, No Hard Hat,
1992Colorado, Capital Peak
Colorado, Capital Peak
On July 27, 1991, Griff Smith (42)
took a leader fall while climbing a
difficult route on Capital Peak. His
injuries were caused by rockfall
generated by his fall. He sustained a
compound fracture of the ankle and a
lump on the head. (Source: Aspen
0 193
Mountain Rescue, Inc.)
Fall on Rock, Falling/Loose Rock, Unroped,
1992 California, ClydeClyde
California, Minaret
Minaret
On June 22, 1991, Bruce Parker (45)
and Kathy Moore set out to do the
fourth class “Starr’s Route” on Clyde
Minaret. The route has some high
fourth and low fifth class rock with a
long third class area.
They moved well, passing through the
0 194
third class section and proceeded 250
Fall on Rock, Fatigue—Food Supply Fell 1992
from Ledge,
meters California,
California, Yosemite
Yosemite
up a large Valley, Washington's
Valley,
gully, belaying over Column
Washington’s Column
some low fifth class spots. About 50
On May 16, 1991, Ranger Kelly
McCloskey interviewed Tom Broxon’s
climbing partner, Patrick
Sturzenacker. She took detailed
notes, from which I transcribed this
report.
0 195
Sturzenacker told McCloskey that the
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Cut Rope
1992with Knife—Panic,
Colorado,
fall in which Inadequate
Rocky
Broxon Experience,
Mountain
was Colorado, Rocky M
National
injured
Park, North’s Cliffs
occurred on May 15, 1991, about
On
1500 Mayon 11,
the 1991, at 1530,
Prow route of an
accident occurred while the Grand
County Search and Rescue Team
was practicing at Adams Falls in
Rocky Mountain National Park. The
team was practicing a vertical raising
0 197
of a “victim” and rescuer out of the
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, California,
1992 Thunder BoltThunder
California, Peak Rolt Peak
On July 8, 1991, Kent Jameson (32)
fell from a ledge on Thunder Bolt
Peak. He had rappelled to the ledge
and was waiting for his friend, Terry
Robinson, to rappel down to him.
Jameson fell 100 to 150 feet.
Robinson rappelled down to him,
0 198
noted his injuries, and continued down
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Exceeding
1992 Abilities
Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade
Mountain, Bankhead Buttress
A group of six soldiers were climbing
on a cliff known as Bankhead
Buttress, a few kilometers east of
Banff. The leader came off while
trying to place protection, and fell ten
meters. One foot was badly broken,
0 199
and nearly severed. Because the
 Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection,
1992Colorado, RockyRocky
Colorado, Mountain National
Mountain Park, Organ Pipes
National
Park, Organ Pipes
On April 28, 1991, Charles Sharp (34)
took a 15 foot lead fall while leading
the second pitch of Organ Pipes on
the Twin Owls at Lumpy Ridge, Rocky
Mountain National Park. Sharp
impacted on a ledge and sustained an
0 200
open tibia/fibula fracture of his right
Fall on Rock, Placed No Protection (Leader),
1992 Inadequate
Alberta,Protection (Belayer), Exceeding
Rocky Mountains, Canmore Abilities, Off Ro
Area, East End of Rundle
On the evening of Monday, July 8,
1991, rangers at Peter Lougheed
Provincial Park received a report that
an S. Craig was overdue on a
weekend climbing trip somewhere in
Banff or Kananaskis Country. He had
0 201
not returned Sunday evening or
Fall on Rock, Placed No Protection, Exceeding
1992 Abilities, Alberta,reached
Two climbers Rocky Mountains, Tunnel Mountain, Go
the small belay
stance at the end of pitch three on the
route “Gooseberry” (5.8). This is a
popular local eight-pitch climb which
sees a lot of traffic. The steeper
climbing is fairly clean, but the
scrambling is loose. The leader
climbed five or six meters above the
0 202
belayer on pitch four, and fell before
Fall on Rock, Protection Failure, Inadequate
1992 Protection, Alberta,
Alberta, RockyRock Mountains,
Mountains, Banff
Banff Area, Sunshine S
Area,
Sunshine Slabs
Sunshine Slabs is a short practice cliff
just west of Banff. One summer day in
1991, a climber (30) was leading on
steep, loose corners to the right of it
when he slipped off. The victim fell 15
meters to the ground when a small
0 203
tree used for protection was pulled out
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, California,
1992 Yosemite National
California, YosemitePark National Park
On September 7, 1991, John Medlock
(28) was lead climbing the Nutcracker
route on Manure Pile Buttress and
was about 120 feet off the ground
going around a large rock horn when
he fell. For protection, Medlock had
placed a sling around a tree below, a
0 204
stopper protection chock, a Camelot
Fall on Rock, Slack in Belay Line, Arizona,
1992Pinnacle Peak, Pinnacle
Arizona, East Wall,Peak,
LizardEast
Lip Wall,
Lizard Lip
On September 23, 1991, two climbers
were on Pinnacle Peak’s east wall.
The lead was a 5.8 climb. The leader
was about seven feet past a .5 tri
cam, when he slipped. Slack in the
rope caught his left ankle as he fell,
0 205
breaking it. His partner lowered him to
 Fall on Rock, Unroped, Off Route, Alberta,
1992RockyAlberta,
Mountains, Mount
Rocky Edith Cavell
Mountains, Mouth
Edith Cavell
On August 11, 1991, after summitting
the east ridge of Mount Edith Cavell in
mixed weather conditions, J.B. and
J.L. had a short lunch break, and then
began their descent via the west
ridge.
0 206
After reaching a series of short, steep
Fall on Snow and Rock, Roped but not Belayed,
1992 Alberta,
Alberta,
rock stepsRocky
Rocky Mountains, Mount
Mountains,
at 3293 meters, the Collier
Mount
Collier
decision was made to rappel. While
On August 18, a
down-climbing 1991, a party
few steps toof four
reach
were proceeding up from the Victoria-
Collier col to the summit of Mount
Collier as two ropes of two when they
encountered a steep snow slope. The
party leader, Hans, belayed his
0 207
partner, Gerry, across the slope to a
Fall on Snow, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
1992 Possible Avalanche,
Colorado, Rocky Exceeding
MountainAbilities,
National Colorado, Rocky M
Park, Longs Peak
On April 20, 1991, Joe Massari (45)
was attempting Kiener’s Route on
Longs Peak. Conditions were quite
adverse, with heavy snowfall, variable
visibility, cold temperatures, winds,
and extreme avalanche danger. A
0 208
local guide and Everest summiter who
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Equipment—No 1992Ice Axe, Colorado,Rocky
Colorado, RockyMountain
MountainNational
National Park, Longs Peak
Park, Longs Peak
On July 14, 1991, at 1530, Mark
Horton (30) slipped while traversing
the snowfield at the base of the Cable
Route on the North Face of Longs
Peak. Horton sustained a dislocated
left shoulder and a five-inch abrasion
0 209
to his left hip. His partners, Steve
Fall on Snow, Placed No Protection/Belay,
1992Exceeding Abilities,
Colorado, Colorado,
Rocky Rocky
Mountain Mountain National Park
National
Park, Longs Peak
On August 2, 1991, at 0630, Judy
Swales (41) and partner Randy Moss
were climbing snow on Lamb’s Slide
on Longs Peak. As the pair got close
to Broadway Ledge, Swales slipped
on snow and fell, pulling Moss down
0 210
with her. They tumbled 300 to 400
Fall on Snow, Unroped, Inadequate Equipment,
1992 British
BritishColumbia,
Columbia, Coast Mountains,
Coast The Lions
Mountains,
The Lions
Dan J. and Kris J. were descending
crusty snow after a climb about
midafternoon on January 20, 1991,
when Dan fell, and slid about 100
meters before he struck a tree. He
sustained back, leg, and neck injuries.
0 211
Kris descended to Lions Bay, the
 Fall on Waterfall Ice, Unroped, Exceeding
1992
Abilities, Haste,Rocky
Alberta, Alberta, Rocky Mountains,
Mountains, Mount Mount Rundle, Pro
Rundle, Professors Gully
A group of experienced climbers had
finished the first pitch of the
Professors Falls, a popular waterfall
route near Banff. The climb consists
of a series of short, steep pitches with
wide, flat shelves in between. One
0 212
climber began the second pitch solo
Falling Rock, Poor Position, California,1992
YosemiteCalifornia,
Valley, El Capitan
Yosemite Valley, El
Capitan
On May 15, 1991, at 2030, I
interviewed Karin Olson’s (23)
climbing partner, Leo Henson (29) at
Yosemite Medical Clinic. (Olson was
being treated for her injuries and was
unavailable for interview.) Henson
0 213
said that he scrambled up a 30-foot
Fatigue, Exposure, Party Separated, Fall1992
on Snow,Alaska,
AMS, Dehydration,
Mount McKinleyInadequate Clothing, Alaska, Moun
On May 14, 1991, four members of
the Korean Blue Fire Expedition left
their high camp at 18,200 feet at
Denali Pass on the West Buttress
route of Mount McKinley, enroute to
the summit. Due to fatigue, AMS, and
poor weather conditions, the climbers
0 214
became separated on their descent. Il
Fingers in Jumar Ascender, Failure to Follow
1992 Instructions,
Colorado, Colorado, Rocky Mountain
Rocky Mountain National Park, Eagl
National
Park, Eagle Cliff Mountain
On June 10, 1991, while participating
in the annual rescue training session
for RMNP seasonal personnel,
Rescuer #1 (62) was descending a
rope using Jumar ascenders on Eagle
Cliff Mountain. Rescuer #1 became
0 215
confused with his hand placement on
Handhold Pulled Out, Fall on Rock, Inadequate
1992 Protection (Chock Mountains,
Alberta, Rocky Pulled), Alberta,
LakeRocky Mountains, Lak
Louise Area, Rack of the Lake Crag
On September 1, 1991, Andrew S.
and his friend were rock climbing at
the Back of the Lake. Andrew fell
when a handhold broke while he was
leading the route “Arrow Float”
(5.12a). His protection pulled and he
0 216
fell approximately ten meters to the
Inadequate Clothing - Assumption Regarding
1992 Weather - California,
California, Yosemite
Yosemite Valley,
Valley, El El Captitan
Capitan
Vinante Donato (33), Sergio Valentini
(33), and Walter del Fre (33)—all from
Italy, set out to climb El Capitan on
May 15, 1991.
They spent their first night on Dolt
Tower. The second night was spent at
0 218
Camp 4; their intended location had
been Camp 5. They had climbed to
 Lightning Strike, Weather, British Columbia,
1992 Selkirk Mountains,
British Columbia,Mount Sir Donald
Selkirk Mountains,
Mount Sir Donald
On August 7, 1991, a party of seven
wardens were at the 3050 meter level
on a training climb of the Northwest
Ridge of Sir Donald, accompanied by
two others who had attached
themselves to the group. They
0 219
decided to descend because of
Rappel Anchor Failure, Alberta, Rocky 1992
Mountains, Mount Rocky
Alberta, Fay Mountains, Mount Fay
After completing an ascent of the
north face of Mount Fay on
September 16, 1991, Bill E. and a
friend were descending the west
ridge, when they reached a ten-meter
step. In order to rappel, they placed a
sling around a large boulder to serve
0 220
as an anchor. Bill rappelled first
Slip on Rock, Fatigue, British Columbia,
1992
Selkirk Mountains, Terminal
British Columbia, Peak Mountains,
Selkirk
Terminal Peak
On October 7, 1991, the last day of a
seven-day mountaineering course, a
group from the University of Calgary
climbed Terminal Peak, and were
descending over broken ground
covered with scree and talus. One
0 221
person simply “went over on the right
Slip on Snow, Unroped, Inadequate Equipment,
1992 Exceeding Abilities,
Alberta, Rocky Inexperience,
Mountains, MountAlberta, Rocky Mounta
Niblock
A party of four were making an ascent
of Mount Niblock on July 14, 1991.
While traversing an upper slope
covered with snow, one of them
slipped and slid 200 meters down the
slope, over a 25 meter buttress, and
0 222
finally slid a further 30 meters down a
Stranded, Exceeding Abilities, Bad Weather
1992 Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Front
Range, Mount Abraham
On June 9, 1991, D.M. and O.M.
began a climb of Mount Abraham,
2820 meters, along David Thompson
Highway, at 0630. This is a long day’s
rock climb up a buttressed ridge with
a 1400 meter elevation gain and
1 223
difficulties near the top, but an easy
Stranded, Inadequate Equipment, Inexperience,
1992 California,
California,Yosemite
Yosemite National Park,
National Lembert Dome
Park,
Lembert Dome
On June 30, 1991, at 1230, Mary
Swartz (25) came to the Toulumne
Meadows Ranger Station to report
that her friend Mark Fritz (26) was
stranded approximately one pitch up a
climb on the southeast comer of
1 224
Lembert Dome. The name of the
 Analysis
Hepburn was fortunate in surviving
this event, and should be commended
for his successful efforts at self-help.
Had his injuries been more severe or
Stranded, Weather, Hypothermia, Inadequate
1992 Equipment,
California,
had California,
he been Yosemite
unableYosemite
Valley,
to Valley, El Capitan
El himself
'extract
Capitan
from the avalanche debris, the results
On September
could have been 27, 1991,
fatal, as four climbers
Hepburn
wereclimbing
was rescuedalone.
from two
Onedifferent
should keep
routes
in mindon El early
that Capitan.
season snowfalls in
On September
the Rockies often 15,take
the first
much winter
time to
storm of the season moved into the
bond sufficiently to the icy surfaces
Central
left overSierra,
from thedropping 4.5 summer
end of the inches of
1 225
rain at lower elevations with
months. Thus it is common for the snow
Avalanche, Climbing Alone, Late Start,1992
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Tyndall Glacier
avalanche conditions on permanent
glaciers to be quite high in the
autumn. Slab conditions are generally
most unstable during the warmest
part of the day, which is when
Hepburn was climbing. (Source: Jim
Detterline, Ranger, RMNP)
0 227
Avalanche, New Hampshire, Mount Washington,
1992 OdellHampshire,
New Gully Mount Washington,
Odell Gully
On February 25, 1991, a spindrift
avalanche swept Thomas Smith (41)
to his death. He and his partner,
James Huntsmen, were near the top
of Odell Gully when the accident
occurred. Smith was knocked from his
0 228
position, and Huntsmen was unable to
Fall into Crevasse, Inadequate Belay, Inadequate
1992 Equipment,
Washington, Washington, Mount Rainier
Mount Rainier
On May 15, 1991, James Tuttle (43)
and 'Lester Spross (37) checked in at
Paradise Visitor Center for a climb of
Mount Rainier via Fuhrer’s Finger. At
the center they changed routes in
favor of the Ingraham Direct after they
were informed of avalanche danger
0 229
and they decided they weren’t
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Overconfidence,
1992 Washington,Mount
Washington, MountBaker
Baker
On August 4, 1991, a group of two
guides and eleven students walked to
an area near the center of the
Coleman Glacier on Mount Baker.
The ice formed an amphitheater with
30 to 50 degree walls 30 feet high
which became vertical for an
0 230
additional 20 feet, ending in a bulge
Fall on Ice, Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing
1992 Unroped, Washington,
Washington, North
North Cascades,Glacier
Cascades, Glacier Peak
Peak
On June 30, 1991, elated veteran
mountaineer Steve Studley (27) stood
above the clouds at the 10,568-foot
summit of Glacier Peak in the North
Cascades Mountains.
Then, as he and a climbing partner,
0 231
Tim Lewis (33), of Seattle, began their
descent on the steep slope of the
rugged peak, Studley slipped on the
 Fall on Ice, Weather, New Hampshire, Mount
1992 AdamsNew Hampshire, Mount Adams
High winds and ice-covered trails
brought a January Presidential Range
traverse to a sudden stop when a
climber fell and broke her leg. On the
second day of what would have been
a three-day guided range traverse,
Chris Schilig, a 47-year-old
0 232
mountaineer, fell and shattered her
Fall on Ice—Probably from Falling Rock,1992
Exceeding Abilities,
Wyoming, Inadequate
Grand TetonProtection, Unwillingness to Ch
On August 25, James Stamper (27),
Jeffrey Jarvi (34), David Riggs (30),
and Thomas Burch (35) established a
high camp on the Lower Saddle of the
Grand Teton. They summitted via the
Exum Ridge on August 26 and
returned to the same high camp.
0 233
According to interviews with his
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, Inadequate
1992 Supervision
Michigan,and OakInstruction, PoorLedge
Park, Grand Judgment, Improper Proc
On May 5, 1991, about 1550, Kathy
Wizinsky (27) fell 30 to 35 feet to the
ground while on a “top roped” climb
known as Ultimate Bushwack (5.5).
She sustained multiple fractures, cuts
and bruises. Wizinsky was part of a
group of seven climbers out for the
0 234
day at a local climbing site known as
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, Wyoming,
1992 Teewinot
Wyoming, Teewinot
On August 8, Adam Gymrek (22) and
Dirk Murphy were descending a
couloir on Teewinot’s East Face. At
0830, Gymrek slipped while
attempting to descend a slab of rock.
He fell several feet and twisted his left
knee which resulted in his inability to
0 235
continue the descent. Murphy went for
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Nut
1992
Pulled Out, Washington,
Washington, Icicle
Icicle CreekButtress
Creek Buttress
On May 17, after several attempts on
a pitch (short) on Eight Mile Buttress,
Jeff Wright (37) climbed back to the
high point to clean the protection.
Because he was already fatigued, he
clipped into a fixed nut at the high
point to rest before down climbing.
0 237
That nut pulled out, and he fell full
Fall on Rock, Inappropriate Footwear, Washington,
1992 Icicle CreekIcicle
Washington, CanyonCreek Canyon
On October 1, 1991, about 1400, Jon
Thompson (22), climbing with Marty
Thayer (28), had just finished climbing
“Face Lift” (5.10a) and was casually
rehearsing opening moves on “Beer
and Loafing in Leavenworth” (5.10b)
when his right foot blew off the hold
0 239
after executing a high step with his left
 Fall on Rock, Minnesota, Taylor's Falls 1992 Minnesota, Taylor’s Falls
On Saturday, April 6, while waiting for
a friend at a local area called Taylors
Falls, I did some easy soloing and
some bouldering. I chose a crack
route that was overhanging and has
an excellent landing. After climbing
the route, I chose to down climb. At
0 240
slightly over one meter from the
Fall on Rock, No Protection, Unroped, Washington,
1992 Castle RockCastle Rock
Washington,
On October 27, 1991, Niccy Code
(32) was leading a group of students
on Castle Rock during a semester
course in mountaineering. Two of her
students were finishing the second
pitch of Saber (5.4) while Niccy was
organizing another on Saber Ledge to
0 241
bring up the last student. Once she
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection,
1992Webbing Parted, Inadequate
Washington, Clothing, Washington, North Cas
North Cascades,
Eldorado Peak
The accident occurred some time
between 1100 and 1300 on
Wednesday, July 18. Five climbers
had started out together from a camp
on the ridge between Eldorado and
Roush Creeks. At the saddle where
0 243
Inspiration and Eldorado glaciers
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Minnesota,
1992 Minnesota
Minnesota, State Park
Minnesota State Park
On July 8, 1991, Nancy Czech (38)
fell about 45 feet from a moderate
rock climb in Minnesota State Park.
“What she was climbing was not a
difficult climb for her at all,” said
Czech’s sister, Diane Kemp of Clear
Lake, who witnessed the fall. “It was
0 244
just a freak accident.”
Fall on Rock, Wyoming, Thor Peak 1992 Wyoming, Thor Peak
On September 30, 1991, at 1000,
Forest McCarthy (23) fell about 80
feet while climbing Thor Peak. His
climbing partner, William Starrett (31),
lowered McCarthy several hundred
feet before leaving him to get help.
At 1400, Starrett waved down Ranger
0 245
Brent Findley and told him his
Fall on Rock, Wyoming, Wind Rivers, Cirque
1992 of the Towerspartner
Wyoming,
climbing Wind Rivers, Cirque
was injured. of the
Starrett
Towers
followed Findley to the Moose Fire
On July 29, 1991, four climbers set
out to climb Pingora via the Northeast
Face as two separate rope teams.
The first rope team was Ian
Cruikshank (52) and Jeanette Hel-
frich (47). The other team was Charlie
0 246
Dorian (46) and Ricky Todd (41). We
 rescue by volunteer mountain rescue
and ski patrol personnel as well as
King County police involved 65
individuals and a total of 331 hours on
the mission. Day was later treated for
Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped, Failure 1992
to Self-Arrest,
Colorado,Colorado,
RockyRockyMountain Mountain National Park, Chaos
National
broken ribs, a dislocated hip, broken
Park, Chaos Canyon
shoulder socket, and lacerations.
On August 16, 1991, Wolfgang
(Source: Compiled from reports by
Schoch and Thorstein Hoh (18) were
Robin Day and Seattle Mountaineers
climbing a 45- degree snowfield in
Accident Report)
Chaos Canyon, Rocky Mountain
Analysis
National Park. Hoh lost his footing and
I caught my snowshoe (Tucker
slid 150 to 200 feet, struck rock, and
0 247 binding with big points) on rope
slid another 50 feet. Hoh suffered
Fall on Snow/Ice, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
1992 wrapped
Faulty
At 0840 around
Useon the snowshoe
ofSeptember
Crampons Washington, edges,
1, a 49-year- Mount Rainier
as
oldwas common
climber arriveda few
at the years
JVCback to
Ranger
preserve the lacing. I tripped
Office to check out for a summit climb. and was
unable to arresthe
After indicating due
was to powder
planningsnowto go
and
alone, the climber was advisedMy
steep, 60+ degree slope. bypick
just went Ranger
Climbing right through the snow. of
Dan Ostrowski Atthe
one point it caught a root or
solo climb regulations and also of the branch
and
poorI weather
halted for a few
and seconds.
climbing (The
conditions
0 248 jerk
on the upper mountain. He was alsoI
broke my shoulder.) Eventually
Fall or Slip on Ice, Avalanche and/or Inadequate
1992 Belay, No Hard
Washington,
was riding aHat, Washington,
onDragontail
small snowPeak sluffDragontail
with Peak
On January 27, 1991,
snow moving all around me, and Itwo well known
and experienced
decided the only way Seattle climbers,
to stop was to
Hope
let go of my ice ax and catch Phibbs
Barnes (33) and Kathy a small
(33),
branch began a climb
or tree. That ofwas Dragontail
how I
Peak
stopped.via Triple
I believeCouloir
my spine on thewas
northwest face. In winter
protected by a large 30 pound the route
winteris a
technical mixed pack.
mountaineering climb involving
Equipment steep
in
0 249
snow
the and rock.pants
pack—pile Before andleaving,
jacket, down
Fall or Slip on Snow, Climbing Unroped, 1992
Washington, Snoqualmie Mountain
vest, weatherproof jacket and pants,
two hats, three pair of mittens, foam
pad, dry socks—kept me marginally
comfortable during rescue. I was
extremely lucky to have a short (six
hour) rescue due to leaders, radio,
and accessible location. (Source:
0 250 Robin Day)
Falling Rock, Fall On Rock, Climbing Unroped,
1992 No
OnHard Hat, Washington,
September 13, 1991,Goode Robert Mountain, Northeast B
Nelson (41)—leader, Mitch Miller (18),
Tim Hartman (40), and Randall Keys
(47) bivouacked at 6,000 feet below
the northeast side of Goode Glacier.
On the 14th at first light, they
traversed to the northwest to a near
vertical wall and were put behind
0 251
schedule. To make up the lost time
Falling Rock, New Hampshire, North Conway,
1992 Cathedral Ledge
New Hampshire, North Conway,
Cathedral Ledge
At the end of May 1991, two climbers
were standing on the ledge below The
Book of Solemnity on Cathedral
Ledge. One of the climbers was
struck on his helmet by a rock; the
helmet was split but the climber was
0 252
unhurt. Since the two climbers did not
 Falling Rock, No Hard Hat, Washington, 1992
Whitehorse Mountain Whitehorse Mountain
Washington,
This is to report a climbing accident
that occurred on Whitehorse Mountain
on June 9, 1991.1 was the climb
leader. Tony Baird was the injured
climber. Other climbers were Andy
Doppel and Steve Zsitvay. All of the
above climbers are Everett
0 253
Mountaineers. There was a fifth
Hypothermia, Frostbite, Inadequate Equipment,
1992 Inexperience,
Washington,Washington, Mount
Mount Rainier, Rainier, Liberty Ridge
Liberty
Ridge
Two climbers from Colorado Springs,
Jon Spangler (32) and Cathy Proenza
(28), left Isput Creek on Saturday,
June 1, 1991, to climb Liberty Ridge.
Both were experienced rock climbers
and Spangler had done some alpine
1 254
climbing in Mexico. Sunday afternoon
Ice Fall, Washington, Mount Shuksan, Hanging
1992 Glacier
Washington, Mount Shuksan,
Hanging Glacier
On August 21, 1991, two experienced
climbers—Curt Veldhuisen (29) and
Gary Gray (33)—signed out at the
USFS Ranger Station and proceeded
to their base camp in the White
Salmon drainage below Mount
0 255
Shuksan. The next morning they were
Ice Tool Placement Failure, Fall on Ice,1992
Broken Ankle, Washington,
Washington, MountMt.Rainier
Rainier
At 1400 on July 28, 1991, Cohn
Clubine (43) suffered a broken ankle
at the 1600 meter level of the
Nisqually Glacier on Mount Rainier.
John, along with 12 other students
and four instructors, was participating
in the second in a series of two ice
0 256
climbing seminars conducted by the
Lightning, Poor Position, Colorado, Rocky
1992Mountain National
Colorado, Park, Mountain
Rocky Longs PeakNational
Park, Longs Peak
On August 24, 1991, at 1500, Tim
Finnegan was struck by lightning
while climbing the Teeter Tooter Pillar
on Longs Peak. The lightning bolt
struck above them, traveled down the
crack system they were climbing,
0 257
entered Finnegan’s upper back and
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, No 1992
Hard Hat, Too Much Weight
Washington, in Pack, Washington, Mount Stewa
Mount Stewart
On August 4, 1991, Paul Werner (25),
Brad Berdoy (32), (Bert Daniels, 50+),
and I Brian Blair (27), climbed the
North Ridge of Mount Stewart. During
the descent, we got to the first
snowfield on the Cascadian Couloir.
Even though the snowfield was steep
0 258
and there were several bands of rocks
 used the same anchor. Duane
tumbled backward down a 70 to 80
degree slope. The fall was estimated
to be 180 feet. Duane came to a stop
on a narrow ledge in front of another
Off Route, Inadequate Clothing, Exposure, cliff
1992Wyoming, 200
Grand
Wyoming, feet high.Teton
Teton
Grand Suffering only from
a
On August 14, Douglasbruised
badly scraped knee, Cairns hands
(36)
and a sprained ankle, Duane
and Daniel Cousins (30) decided wasto
capable
attempt the of walking six miles
North Ridge afterback to
having
the
failed to find their way to the Blackan
parking area. He was wearing Ice
external frameoriginal
Couloir, their pack during the fall,
objective. They
which he credits
were forced with having
to bivouac above the
prevented
“Slab” pitchhim andfromwokeserious
on theinjury.
morning
0 259 Here
of theis15th
a summary
to foggy,ofwhite-out
what Duane
Rappel Anchor Failure, Failure to Follow
1992
Route, Inadequate
Washington,
said regardingProtection,
Mix
hisUp Washington,
Peak “My Mix Up Peak
accident:
On August 15, 1991,
instincts in this situation I was climbing
clearly said
with was
this Lindsay Berlydownclimb
an easy (26) on the East
with
Face of
many Mixledges
easy Up Peak andinboulders.
the NorthI
Cascades.
owe As we
the limited descended,
nature it grew
of my injuries
dark.
to It wasconditioning,
physical almost completely
the usedark
of aat
2030 when
helmet, the we reached
external framewhat weand
pack
believed
good to be
luck.” the final
(Source: rappel
From anchor.
a letter
0 260
We onlytohad
written Fred one 50 meter rope and
Stanley)
Rappel Anchor Failure, Inadequate Protection,
1992 Washington, Mount Shuksan
Analysis
Rappel anchors should be checked
after each rappel. Natural anchors
can be deceptive and should be
backed up when possible. If rappelling
can be avoided in down climbing, it
ought to be considered. (Source:
0 261 Dean Engle)
Rappel Off Unequal Ropes, Washington, 1992
Index Town Wall
Washington, Index Town Wall
In early August, Greg Child had one
of the more exciting rappelling
experiences possible. He reported it
as follows:
If I had a penny for every rappel I’d
done, I’d be a rich man. After 22 years
of climbing, my rappel odometer has
0 262
rolled over a few times. And every
Slip on Snow, Failure to Self-Arrest, Wyoming,
1992 Disappointment Peak
Wyoming, Disappointment Peak
On August 4, 1991, at 1445, Kent
Fortner (22) and Thomas George (20)
were attempting to climb
Disappointment Peak via the east
couloir above Amphitheater Lake.
Approximately half way up the steep
snow of the couloir, George planted
0 263
his ice ax and stopped to rest. His feet
Slip on Snow, Inadequate Equipment, Wyoming,
1992 Middle Teton
Wyoming, Middle Teton
On September 4, 1991, at 1600, Fred
Perl, Curt Pohr and Bonnie Schwartz
(25) were descending the Southwest
Couloir route of the Middle Teton.
Schwartz had been descending
across the top of the snowfield at the
11,500 foot level. At the edge of a
0 264
steep dropoff, she slipped and lost her
 Slip or Fall on Snow, Party Separated, Washington,
1992 Mt. Rainier Mount Rainier
Washington,
On January 2, 1991, a three person
climbing party consisting of Mark
Fogarty (26), Phil Buck (26), and
Binget Hanson (24) returned to Camp
Muir after successfully climbing Mount
Rainier via Ingraham Glacier. They
planned to descend from Camp Muir
0 265
on the Muir Snowfield the following
Stranded, Inexperienced Non-Climbers,1992
New Hampshire, Mount Washington,
New Hampshire, Huntington Ravine
Mount Washington,
Huntington Ravine
On May 24, 1991, two male students
from the University of New Hampshire
(one who was to graduate the very
next day) hiked into Huntington
Ravine on Mount Washington to the
point where the trail turns right onto
0 266
rock slabs. The two students turned
Uncontrolled Head First Rappel, No Belay,
1992Wisconsin, Devil'sDevil’s
Wisconsin, Lake State
LakePark
State Park
On July 20, 1991, Martin Bordson (29)
was doing a head first 70 foot rappel
when he lost control and hit the
ground, breaking both wrists. (Source:
Visitor Accident Report, Devil’s Lake
State Park)
(Editor’s Note: There were another
0 267
half a dozen reports from Devil’s Lake
Webbing Anchor "Broke Free," Inadequate1992Protection,
StateWisconsin,
Wisconsin, Devil's
Park, Devil’s Lake
all hikers Lake
who State
State
got ParkPark
On
themselves into climbing situations(28)
May 28, 1991, Mark Forsythe
fell about 70 feet after a climbing sling
apparently “broke.” He had moved the
protection that was on the top of the
climb and had begun to lower himself
down on belay from his partner.
Forsythe suffered several fractures
0 269
and lacerations. (Source: Visitor
Avalanche, Fall on Snow and Ice, Pueblo,
1993
El PicoPuebla,
de Orizaba
El Pico de Orizaba
On November 16, 1992, a group of
eight climbers began the standard
route, Glacier de Jamapa, on the
north slope of the mountain. The party
of eight included two guides, Octavio
Juarez and Tim Villanueva, and their
clients, Kurt Dreibholtz, David
0 270
Kristensen, Dick Nelson, Bob Roberts,
Avalanche, Inadequate Equipment, Poor1993
Position,British
FailureColumbia,
to Heed Forecast,
Rocky British Columbia, Rocky Mou
Mountains,
Mount Field, Silk Tassel Falls
On February 2, 1992, two parties of
two set out for Silk Tassel, a grade 4
ice climb near the Trans-Canada
Highway. Around 1200, they hiked to
its base and began the 55 meter
ascent. The two were climbing side by
0 271
side when an avalanche swept over
 Avalanche, Party Separated—No Rescue 1993
Attempt,Alaska,
Alaska,Flattop
Flattop Mountain
Mountain
In October of 1992, four Anchorage
climbers were ascending a gully on
Flattop Mountain just outside of
Anchorage when they were struck by
an avalanche. Two were buried, one
popped out, and one escaped being
hit. The latter two descended.
0 272
When rescuers returned a few hours
Avalanche, Weather, Alaska, Mount Foraker
1993 Alaska, Mount
later, they found Foraker
one victim quickly.
On June 14, 1992,
He was wearing a beacon.Tom Walter
The (34),
other
Ritt
wasKellogg
located (28),
after and Colby
finding his Coombs
ski pole
(25) skied from the Southeast Fork of
the Kahiltna Glacier to the base of the
“Pink Panther” on the East Face of
Mount Foraker. Approximately three
inches of new snow fell on the
0 273
evening and night of the 14th.
Cornice Collapse, Unroped, Bad Weather,1993
Off Route at Night,
Alberta, Alberta,
Rocky Rocky Mountains,
Mountains, Mount Mount Temple
Temple
On September 12, 1992, James H.
(38) and Charles B. (30) met at
Moraine Lake to climb the East Ridge
of Mount Temple. They set off at
1300, intending to bivouac above the
Big Step and finish the climb the
0 274
following day. They bivvied as
Crampon Snagged, Fall on Snow, Inadequate
1993 Equipment (Ice Axes onRocky
British Columbia, Packs), British Columbia, Rocky M
Mountains,
Mount Dennis, Guinness Gully
A party of two climbed Guinness
Gully, a multi-pitch grade 4 ice route,
on March 3, 1992. They then
rappelled part of the way down the
climb before traversing through some
timber to a steep descent gully to the
0 275
west. The descent gully is a small
Exposure, Frostbite, Fatigue, Weather, Loss
1993of Tent Containing
Alaska, MountFood, Fuel, Clothing, Equipment, Alaska,
McKinley
On April 22, 1992, the three member
Korean “Pohang” party flew in to climb
the Cassin Ridge on Mount McKinley.
On May 4 they started the route at the
base of the Japanese Couloir with 15
days of food. By May 9 they had
reached their high camp at 17,700
0 276
feet. Their plans were to make a
Fall in Crevasse, Unroped, Climbing Alone,
1993 Inattention,
Alberta,Alberta,
RockyRocky Mountains,
Mountains, Mount Mount Athabasca
Athabasca
Nick M. registered at the Columbia
Icefield on July 21, 1992, for a solo
climb of Mount Athabasca (3490
meters) the following day. He
intended to start at 0530, follow the
Silverhom route to the summit, and
0 277
descend by either the standard route
 Fall Into Crevasse, Unroped, Alaska, Mount
1993 McKinley
Alaska, Mount McKinley
On May 11, 1992, Dave Fulton (31)
and Robert Bums were descending
from a carry to Windy Corner on the
West Buttress back to their camp at
11,000 feet on the West Buttress of
Mount McKinley. They were both
traveling unroped, having deposited
0 278
their rope at Windy Corner. About
Fall Into Crevasse, Yukon Territory, St.1993
Elias Mountains
Yukon Territory, St. Elias Mountains
On June 13, 1992, a group of five
climbers and two guides were
ascending an unnamed 3600 meter
mountain east of McArthur Peak. At
0500 at the 2700 meter level, a series
of large crevasses were encountered.
After checking the route, the guides
0 279
considered that a fixed line and a
Fall on Ice, Placed No Protection, Exceeding
1993 Abilities, California,
California, DanaDana Glacier
Glacier
On July 26, 1992, at 1515 Ranger
Dave Page received a report of a
climbing accident on the Dana
Glacier. The reporting party, Robert
Gordon, was at the Tioga Pass
Entrance Station. Gordon indicated
that two individuals climbing above
0 280
him on the Dana Glacier had taken a
Fall on Rock, Ascenders Detached from1993Rope, California, Yosemite
California, Valley,
Yosemite El Capitan
Valley, El
Capitan
On May 12, 1992, John McDonald
(31) was cleaning an aid pitch on the
Zodiac route (VI, 5.11, A3) on El
Capitan, when his ascenders
apparently became detached from his
rope and he fell about 100 feet to the
0 281
end of the rope. He suffered serious
Fall on Rock, California, Yosemite Valley,
1993Nutcracker
California, Yosemite Valley,
Nutcracker
On September 20, 1992, Margaret
Cashman was leading the sixth pitch
of the Nutcracker route when she took
a ten foot leader fall. As a result of the
fall she impacted both of her heels
causing possible fractures and
0 282
significant pain. A technical lowering
Fall on Rock, Fatigue, Loss of Concentration,
1993 California, Yosemite
California, Valley,
Yosemite Cathedral
Valley, Spires
Cathedral
Spires
On the evening of May 27, 1992, the
park received a report of an accident
on Higher Cathedral Rock. The
reporting party had been on the
Cathedral Spires at 1800 when they
heard yells for help from Higher Rock.
0 283
They said the climbers in trouble were
 Fall on Rock, Foothold Broke Off, Climbing
1993 Unroped, Arizona,
Arizona, Cochise,
Cochise Stronghold, Rockfellow Dome
Stronghold,
Rockfellow Dome
On November 26, 1992, my friends
and I (45) were checking out the
climbs on Rockfellow Dome with the
intention of climbing there the next
day. At the base of the dome is a
scree of large, smooth granite
0 284
boulders. To return to camp, we had
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Alberta,
1993 Rocky Mountains,
Alberta, RockyMount Yamnuska
Mountains, Mount
Yamnuska
On July 12, 1992, two Calgarians, R.
V. and E. W., were climbing
Corkscrew, a 5.8 multipitch route near
the east end of the southeast face of
Mount Yamnuska, when R. V., who
was leading the third pitch around
0 285
1300, clipped into one of two fixed
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, California,
1993 Yosemite Valley,
California, Half Dome
Yosemite Valley, Half
Dome
On September 17, 1992, a report of
an injured climber, Rolf Schempp
(25), seven pitches up the Regular
Northwest Face route of Half Dome
was received by NPS dispatch. A
ranger was inserted at the scene by
0 286
heli-rappelling from the park
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Haste,
1993Alberta, RockyRocky
Alberta, Mountains, Mount Yamnuska
Mountains, Mount
Yamnuska
On the morning of April 25, 1992,
Craig E. and Rob G. registered out for
a climb of the eight-pitch route “Red
Shirt,” about 270 meters high and
rated 5.7, on Mount Yamnuska. About
12 hours later they had completed
0 287
most of the climb and Craig started up
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Inadequate
1993 Belay, Exceeding
California, Abilities,
Yosemite California,
Valley, BishopsYosemite Valley,
Terrace
Keith Kramer (22) was planning on
climbing Bishops Terrace with a new
climbing partner who had little to no
experience. Kramer did not have a
guide book and was able to locate
Bishops Terrace. Kramer only had a
0 288
short period of time to climb that
Fall on Rock, No Spotter, California, Yosemite
1993 Valley, Swan Yosemite
California, Slab Valley, Swan
Slab
On July 23, 1992, Michael Poulin fell
about eight feet to the ground while
bouldering in the Swan Slab area. He
sustained a severely angulated right
ankle fracture. (Source: C. Jacobi,
Ranger, Yosemite National Park)
0 289
(Editor's Note: Many injuries could be
prevented if proper spotting
techniques were used while
bouldering—provided the climber is
 Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection,
1993California, JoshuaJoshua
California, Tree National Monument
Tree National
Monument
On January 31, 1992, at 1450, Laurie
Lauer (32) fell near the top of White
Lightning (5.7). Due to the stretch in
the rope and the distance from her
last piece of protection, the distance
of the fall was 15 to 20 feet. She
0 291
landed on a slab, resulting in a
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection,
1993California, JoshuaJoshua
California, Tree National Monument
Tree National
Monument
On February 1, 1992, Michael
Gardiner (31) fell while leading the
Hobbit Roof (5.10). Gardiner's top
piece of protection, a #2 Friend,
pulled out, so he fell 30 feet to the
ground. He landed on his feet, then
0 292
fell to his side, hitting his head against
Fall on Rock, Placed No Protection, California,
1993 Yosemite Valley,
California, El Capitan
Yosemite Valley, El
Capitan
On May 16, 1992, while climbing the
second pitch of “The Nose” route on
El Capitan, Bruce Burns (37) fell
about 60 feet while leading. He was
injured, and was unconscious for a
short period of time. His partners
0 293
lowered him to the bottom of the third
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, California,
1993 Tahquitz Rock,
California, Consolation
Tahquitz Rock, Consolation
On July 4, 1992, I was about 25 feet
into the third pitch of our climb when I
came off. Two pieces that I had
placed failed. One was a small
Metolius tri-cam unit a few feet below
the spot from which I fell. The cams
tipped out and reversed. A foot or two
0 294
below that piece I had a wired, curved
Fall on Rock—Rock Foothold Broke Off, 1993
Protection Pulled Out,
California, No Hard
Joshua TreeHat, California, Joshua Tree Na
National
Monument
On June 7, 1992, William Oliver (30)
was leading Beck's Bet (5.5). He was
about 25 feet up the route, just past
his second piece of protection, when
the rock knob he had stepped onto
broke off. He fell, his protection pulled
0 295
out, and he landed on his belayer.
Fall on Snow, Descending Unroped, Exceeding
1993 Abilities,
Alaska, Alaska, Mount McKinley
Mount McKinley
At approximately mid day on May 20,
1992, Soo Yang Yung (29), Sung Tak
Hong (26) and Seong Jong Jin (25)
from Korea were killed while
attempting to descend the Orient
Express route on Mount McKinley.
The three fell several thousand feet to
0 296
the 15,800 foot level. On May 23, the
 Fall on Snow, Inadequate Belay, Weather,
1993Alaska,Alaska,
Mount McKinley
Mount McKinley
On May 17, 1992, the Canadian “GT-
92” expedition departed from the
Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier
at 7,200 feet. They spent the next five
days reaching the 14,000 foot camp.
After spending five days there, they
proceeded to 16,200 feet for one day.
0 297
On May 29, they moved to 17,200
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Protection, Alaska,
1993 Mount McKinley
Alaska, Mount McKinley
On May 10, 1992, at 1710, the “West
Buttheads” expedition, Timothy Hagan
(39) and Paul Kogelmann (33) were
descending the headwall from the
16,200 foot camp. They were
traveling roped and opted not to clip
into the fixed lines. Kogelmann,
0 298
leading, slipped and fell about 150
Fall on Snow, Ski Mountaineering, Exceeding
1993 Abilities,
Alaska,Inadequate
ChugachEquipment,
MountainsBinding Adjustment, Alas
From June 28 to July 5, 1992, I (Todd
Miner, 36) was co-leading a University
of Alaska Anchorage Wilderness
Leadership Expedition. On the 5th,
while skiing down the Raven Glacier, I
fell, resulting in an injured knee. (Later
diagnosed as a tom anterior cruciate
0 299
ligament (ACL), torn medial collateral
Fall to Ground on Rappel, Inadequate Belay,
1993 No Hard Hat, California,
California, YosemiteYosemite
NationalNational
Park, Park, Puppy Dom
Puppy Dome
On July 24, 1992, Mike James (22)
and his fellow counselor from a
Seventh Day Adventist Camp (Camp
Wawona) had set up a rappel on “Do
or Fly,” an overhanging climb on
Puppy Dome. The intent was to teach
0 300
students to trust each other by having
Falling Rock, California, Yosemite Valley,
1993Leaning Tower Yosemite Valley, Leaning
California,
Tower
On July 5, 1992, I spoke with Brad
Young (32) at the Yosemite Medical
Clinic about a climbing accident that
he and his climbing partner Doug
Burton (age not noted) were involved
in on the Leaning Tower.
0 301
Young told me that they started on the
Falling Snow Block, Fall on Rock and Ice,
1993 Inadequate
climbBelay,
Alberta, PoorBridalveil
Rocky
from the Position, Alberta,
Mountains, MountRocky
Parking Lot Mountains, M
Temple
at 0900. They walked from the lot and
On September
arrived 1, 1992,
at the base of thetwo
climb at
Americans, Doug S. and Mike V., set
out to climb the East Ridge of Mount
Temple. Early fall snows had left the
mountain in winter condition, but the
climbers proceeded without incident
0 302
until they reached the exit gullies that
 Lisa began CPR immediately and
maintained her efforts for over 45
minutes until the first party arrived on
foot to assist. The Canadian Parks
Service contract helicopter, racing
HAPE, Frostbite, Inadequate Equuipment,1993
Weather, Alaska,
Alaska, Mount
Mount McKinley
McKinley
against the approaching darkness
On April 24, 1992, Daryl Hinman (44),
from its base in Valemont, B.C.,
Tom Roseman (42) and Bob Rockwell
reached the area a few minutes later
(56)— members of the China Lake
and within ten minutes the victim was
(CA) Mountain Rescue Group—
evacuated to the advanced life
started out from Kantishna to do a
support unit waiting below. A back-up
traverse of Mount McKinley, going up
helicopter and rescue team from
McGonagall Pass to the Muldrow
0 303 Banff, only minutes behind the first
Glacier, over Denali Pass, and down
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Unroped,
1993 machine,
Alberta, had(3053
Rocky
Fisher Peak to setmeters)
Mountains,down atwas
Mount theFisher
the
Columbia Icefields
day's objective for the night.
for Thomas A on
W. (36)
pulse was never restored,
July 22, 1992. He bicycled in from and Pat
was
Elbow declared
Falls with dead hison arrival
friend at the
J. M. to get
hospital in Jasper.
close to the mountain as quickly as
Analysis
possible, and then they set off on foot
Public SafetyCreek
up Shoulder Specialists from both
to approach the
Banff and Jasper investigated
mountain from the east. Around the
1430,
0 304 accident site around 1300 the next
the pair were traversing a cirque
Protection Pulled Out, Fall on Rock, Inadequate
1993 Belay,
day. Off Route,
California,
Only Yosemite
the one California,
Valley,
anchor Yosemite
El could
point Valley, El Capitan
Capitan
be found at the victim's rappel station.
On August
He had been 6, no
1992,more Jamie
thanSerrano
four or five
(25)
meters into the rappel when the (39)
and Angel Vedo Fernandez
—both
conduitfrom
pulled Spain,
out. Awere climbing
deformity the
at one
Nose route of El Capitan,
end of the tube may have been and were at
a location 1200 to 1500 feet
caused by impacting on rock. The ice above
the valley
was warmfloor,
and wet,a few pitches
and below
it is believed
0 305
Dolt similar
that Tower.conditions
Vedo was the leading and
previous
Rappel Anchor Failure, Fall on Ice, Alberta,
1993 Rocky Mountains, Tangle Ridge, Centre Stage Falls
day may have contributed to the
failure. It appears that this mature
veteran of many underwater,
underground, and mountaineering
exploits (and rescues) gambled on a
one-point anchor. We think he would
want you to know. (Source: Canadian
0 306 Parks Service, Jasper National Park)
Rappel Sling Anchor Untied, Fall on Rock,
1993Quebec, Mount Mount
Quebec, CesaireCesaire
On July 2, 1992, a group of 15 from
the Monteregie Youth Center in
Chambly, including four group
leaders, plus two instructors from the
Quebec Mountaineering Federation
(FQM), went out to a cliff on Mount
Cesaire for climbing practice. First the
0 307
instructors set up top ropes on five
Rope Parted (Worn Through on Rock Edge 1993WhileBritish
Jumarring),
Columbia,Fall onCoast
Rock,Mountains,
British Columbia, Coast Mou
Stawamus Chief
On April 8, 1992, Grace W. left her
climbing partner near the south
summit of Stawamus Chief in order to
examine a wall for new route
prospects. She was jumarring up the
wall at 1415 when her nine mm rope
0 308
apparently chafed through on a rock
 Slip on Ice, Inadequate Belay, Inattention,
1993Fatigue, British Columbia,
Columbia, Coast Mountains, Tahumming Glaci
Coast Mountains,
Tahumming Glacier
For Bob P. and Doug W., August 28,
1992, was day eight of a 21-day
traverse of the Tahumming
Horseshoe near the head of Toba
Inlet. Their objective for the day was
to cross a small hanging glacier, find
0 309
a route down an icefall, and then
Slip on Ice, No Hard Hat, Inadequate Protection,
1993 British
British Columbia,
Columbia,Northern
NorthernSelkirk
SelkirkMountains, Mount Co
Mountains, Mount Colossal
On August 7, 1992, during the third
week of the annual ACC General
Mountaineering Camp at Fairy
Meadows in the Adamants, the chief
guide, Don V., a long-standing
member of the ACMG, was leading a
0 310
party of two rope teams on a climb of
Slip on Snow, Unroped, Haste, Alberta,1993
Rocky Mountains, Three Sisters,
Alberta, Rocky Big Sister
Mountains, Three
Sisters, Big Sister
About 1315 on September 30, 1992,
Richard O. and Jim B. were hurrying
upward in strong winds on the
southwest slopes of the third Sister
(2937 meters) when Richard slipped
on a small patch of snow and fell
0 311
about six meters. He sustained
Snow Lip/Bridge Collapse—Fall Into Crevasse,
1993 Inadequate Belay,McKinley
Alaska, Mount Weather, Alaska, Mount McKinley
On May 4, 1992, Mugs Stump (41)—a
guide for Mountain Trip—and his
clients Nelson Max (40) and Robert
Hoffman (45) began climbing the
1965 Japanese Ramp Route on the
South Buttress of Mount McKinley.
The team established a base camp on
0 312
the upper part of the East Fork of the
Snowbridge Collapse, Inadequate Eqipment,
1993 Probe Pole, Alaska,
Alaska, Mount Mount McKinley
McKinley
On May 17, about 1600, a snowbridge
over a crevasse collapsed while three
members of the Je Ju University
expedition were preparing a campsite
around 15,000 feet on the West
Buttress of Mount McKinley. Mr. Duk
Sang Jang was uninjured and able to
0 313
descend to 14,000 feet. At 1730, Jang
Stranded, Exceeding Abilities, Inadequate
1993Protection, California,
California, Yosemite
Yosemite Valley,
Valley, SwanSwan Slab
Slab
On April 27, 1992, at 1430, Karen
Hoeppner telephoned NPS dispatch
and reported that James Dziadulewicz
had fallen while rock climbing on
Swan Slab, and was injured on a
ledge approximately 30 feet above the
0 314
ground. I responded with Ranger
 Stranded, Exceeding Abilities, Lost, Damaged
1993 andYukon
Inadequate Equipment,
Territory, MountYukon
LoganTerritory, Mount Logan
At 1530 on May 21, 1992, the Kluane
National Park Warden Service
received word from a local pilot that a
group of four Italian climbers on the
Hummingbird Ridge of Mount Logan
(6050 meters) had broadcast a
“mayday” and were requesting
1 315
helicopter assistance.
Stranded, Fatigue, Party Separated, Inadequate
1993 Equipment, Weather,
Alaska, Mount Alaska, Mount McKinley
McKinley
“Expedition McKinley” a group from
France, spent the night of May 10,
1992, at 17,000 feet on the West
Buttress of Mount McKinley, without a
stove. A stove had been cached 20 /
ACCIDENTS IN NORTH AMERICAN
MOUNTAINEERING 1993
0 316
at 16,200 feet on the West Buttress.
Stranded, Inadequate Clothing, Weather,1993
California, Yosemite
California,
During National Park,
the Yosemite
afternoon Stately
National
of May Pleasure Dome
Park,
11, Mr.
Stately Pleasure Dome
Sement and Mr. Berthois attempted to
On July 14,
descend 1992, Gary
to 16,200 Damsley
feet to retrieve(23)
the
and Allyson Pendleton (29) became
stranded during a rain storm they
experienced one pitch from the top of
South Crack. They became too cold
to climb and had to be rescued.
1 317
(Source: Fred Koegler, Ranger,
Stranded, Inadequate Equipment and Clothing,
1993 Weather, California,
California, YosemiteYosemite National
National Park,Park, Stately Pleas
Stately Pleasure Dome
On June 24, 1992, Anne Tuite (21)
and Sean Costello (29) became
stranded on Stately Pleasure Dome
due to a rain and hail storm.
After a difficult rescue in the storm,
Tuite was flown off the dome at 2040
1 318
and transported to medical facilities
Stranded, Off Route, Exceeding Abilities,
1993
Alberta,On
Rocky
where Mountains,
August
she 6, 1992,
was Mount
Joefor
treated Temple
P. and to
mild Martin
L. climbed the east ridge of Mount
Temple (3544 meters) but stalled at
2000 when they reached the Black
Towers, unsure if they were on route.
They bivvied overnight and tried to
continue in the morning. After
climbing part way up a gully, they
0 319
found they could not make any more
Avalanche, Loss of Control—Glissading, 1993
Poor Route Finding,San
Colorado, Colorado, San Juan Mountains, Lookout Pe
Juan Mountains,
Lookout Peak
I was mountain climbing with my
husband, Edward W. Enlow, Jr. (38),
when he had a fatal mountaineering
accident on June 13, 1992. The
following is a description of the
accident.
0 321
We had decided to climb Lookout
Peak, a 13,661 foot mountain in the
San Juan mountain range near Ophir
Pass in Colorado. We had read
 Oregon, Mount Hood
On February 29, Ralph Leach (40),
Tom Morgan (53), and Lee Hepfer
(49) successfully ascended the South
Side (Hogsback) route on Mount
Dislocated Knee—Fall on Rock, Miscommunication,
1993 NewNew Hampshire,
Hampshire, CathedralLedge
Cathedral Ledge
Hood. At 1130 while descending the
On July 3, 1992, Mark Chauvin was
same route, Hepfer jumped the
guiding on Standard and had gone
bergschrund (10,300 feet), slipped,
about 35 feet up the Toe Crack to a
and fell into a fumarole bowl known as
belay ledge when his first student,
“Devils Kitchen.” He was able to self-
who was doing the crux layback
arrest after sliding about 300 yards.
move, experienced a dislocated knee
Leach descended to report the
and fell as a result. Chauvin did a
0 323 accident while Morgan down climbed
counter balanced rappel with the
Exceeding Abilities, Ascending Too Slowly, to assist
1993 Exposure, the injured
Hypothermia,
Washington, Hepfer.
MountFrostbite,
Rainier, Weather,
Liberty Washington, Mo
A multi-agency (downhill ski patrol,
Ridge
Nordic
About 2000ski patrol,
on May professional
1, 1992, the EMT,
park
mountain rescue) hasty
received a message from the team reached
the accidentradio
emergency site around
located1600at Campand
made contact with the two
Muir from the summit. The climber, skiers who
had just assisted
Shannon Stegg (26) was in moving Hepfer to
a slightly lower location.
hypothermic, incoherent, and had A fully
0 324 equipped Portland Mountain
frostbite. He reported that hisRescue
climbing
Fall From Rappel, Possible Miscommunication,
1993 No
NewHard
team Hat,theNew
Hampshire,
left base Hampshire,
at 1637 toCathedral
Cathedral support Ledge
Ledge
On February
a possible 1, 1992,
ground John High (mid
evacuation.
30s) and his partner walked
Hampered by a steep, icy approach to the top
of the north end of Cathedral
and inadequate equipment, two Ledge
hasty
and set up both a rappel
team members managed to reach anchor andthea
belay anchor on a tree above
subject at 1645. Requests for an air the ice
climb calledby
evacuation “The
theUnicorn,”
ARRS 304th an NEI4+
were
which
met is above
and Hepferthe waswell known
hoisted rock a
aboard
0 325
route “TheyatDied
Pavehawk 1710Laughing.” John to
and transported
Fall on Ice, Climbing Unroped, Oregon,1993Mount Hood
Oregon Health Science University.
Hepfer was treated for a broken ankle
and lacerations of the face and hand.
Analysis
The bergschrund on the Hogsback is
a frequent site for climbing
accidents. . (Source: Jeff Scheetz,
0 326 Portland Mountain Rescue)
Fall on Ice, Failure to Test Ice Tool Placement,
1993 IceNewToolHampshire,
Pulled Out, Crawford
Inattention,Notch,
New Hampshire, Crawfor
Hitchcock Gully
On January 9, 1992, my partner,
Charles Narnold (22) and I (21) went
ice climbing, after spending the night
in the AMC hostel in the Notch. We
walked down the tracks to the base of
Cinema Gully, a moderate ice climb
0 327
on Mount Willard. The ice in Cinema
Fall on Icy Rock, Weather, Wyoming, Grand1993 Teton National Grand
Wyoming, Park, Grand
Teton Teton
National Park,
Grand Teton
On July 14, 1992, at 0430, three
Exum guides left the lower saddle with
seven clients to climb the Exum Ridge
on the Grand Teton. The route was in
bad condition because of recent new
snow and freezing temperatures. The
0 328
group made good progress, but they
 Fall on Rock, Caught Foot on Edge, Exceeding
1993 Abilities, Idaho,
Idaho, City of City
Rocksof Rocks
On August 29, 1992, Tim Mooney
(24) decided to “Pink Point” a route
which his partner, Paul Hodges (24),
had already led. At the last bolt clip in,
which he failed to make, he slipped
and fell. Before he could push away
from the rock, he caught an edge of
0 330
rock with his foot, resulting in a
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
1993 Exceeding Abilities,
Colorado, RockyColorado,
MountainRocky Mountain National Par
National
Park, Mount Meeker
On July 29, 1992, Mrs. Melinda Boyer
reported that her husband Gary Boyer
(35) was overdue from a July 28 solo
attempt of Mount Meeker. The
ensuing search effort in stormy
weather by park rangers and a
0 331
contract helicopter culminated at 1455
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
1993 Exceeding Abilities,
Missouri, Kansas Missouri, Kansas
City, Cliff City, Cliff Drive
Drive
Cliff Drive is a limestone crag near
downtown Kansas City, Missouri.
There are six to 12 routes of varying
difficulty. I was climbing with friends
on October 4, 1992. Two climbers that
we didn’t know showed up and one,
Russ Engle (19), started climbing the
0 332
route known as “The Book” (5.9). He
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Exceeding
1993 Abilities, Colorado,
Colorado, RockyRocky Mountain
Mountain National Park, Little M
National
Park, Little Matterhorn
On August 16, 1992, at 1000, Jon M.
Hofstra (23) fell about 1000 feet while
descending unroped from the summit
of the Little Matterhorn down the
fourth class and lower fifth class
northeast chimneys route. Partners
0 333
Todd Feenstra and Andrew Tenbrink
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, Inadequate
1993 Equipment,
Oregon, Oregon,
Mount HoodMount Hood
On October 25, 1992, Terry Beggs
(20) and Don Ming (20) started out to
“hike” to the summit of Mount Hood.
Their clothing consisted of jeans, T-
shirts, and work boots. They carried
no equipment other than a camera.
Just before sunset, the pair reached
0 334
the base of the Hogsback above
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Miscommunication,
1993 Nevada,
Nevada, Red Red Rocks,American
Rocks, American Sportsman
Sportsman
On January 25, 1992, Matt Spydell of
Santa Barbara, California, reached
the anchors on American Sportsman
(5.10c) on the Wall of Confusion, Red
Rocks, Nevada. His partner asked if
he was off belay, heard what she
0 335
thought was a yes, and took him off.
 One other contributing factor was the
shoes that I was wearing. I had on a
pair of low cut Vasque hiking shoes
which have a Vibram look-alike
compound rubber sole. However, the
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection,
1993Icy Rock,
instepColorado,
Colorado, of Rocky
areaRocky Mountain
theMountain
shoe National Park, Longs Pe
National
is not very
Park, and
good Longs Peakpreviously slipped on
I have
On September
trails and other 19, 1992,
places whenat 0830,
side-
Lathe Strang
stepping with (30)
thesefractured
shoes. his left
ankle as he slipped
In summary, I believeonthat
icy rock
this while
leading the first pitch of Prevertical
accident was preventable. The most
Sanctuary IV (5.10)
important factor on have
would the Diamond
been to
face of Longs Peak. Strang
go out and do the standard re- was 30
0 337
feet above the belay and
familiarization/practice eight feet
sessions prior
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection,
1993Out of Practice, Washington, Snoqualmie Pass, Chair Peak
to going in the mountains. From a
mental standpoint, I was
overconfident because of my previous
experiences climbing Chair Peak,
although these did not reconcile with
my lack of recency in rock climbing
experience. (Source: Patrick
0 338 Podenski)
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection,
1993Protection Pulled Out,
Washington, Washington,
Stuart Stuart Range, Colchuck P
Range, Colchuck
Peak
On June 21, 1992, Kevin Coplin (36)
and Allan G. Fries (46), two
experienced climbers, fell to their
death while ascending Colchuck
Peak. What follows is a report from a
member of the search parties that
0 339
recovered the bodies.
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Overconfident,
1993 Washington,Peshastin
Washington, Peshastin Pinnacles,
Pinnacles, Orchard Rock
Orchard Rock
On May 15, 1992, I was teaching an
inexperienced climber the proper use
of protection. I was on sandstone with
few places for placing protection. I
had climbed 25 feet, then put in two
pieces, then told my belayer that I
0 340
was falling. I then jumped off the rock
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Placed
1993Inadequate Protection,
Washington, No HardPinnacles,
Peshastin Hat, Washington, Peshastin P
Lightning Crack
On May 31, 1992, Bob Renz (40) was
climbing Lightning Crack. He placed
protection at the beginning of the
climb and then didn’t place protection
when the crack was not as steep and
difficult to climb. When he reached the
0 341
crux of the climb, approximately 70
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Belay—Climbing1993Unroped, Colorado,
Colorado, RockyRocky Mountain
Mountain National Park, Longs Pe
National
Park, Longs Peak
On August 9, 1992, at 0900, Andy
Griffiths (36) was attempting to climb
Lamb's Slide on the East face of
Longs Peak. He slipped and slid 300
feet, sustaining injuries to his left
elbow, hip, and ankle. Charlie McVey
0 342
reached and assessed Griffiths, and
 Fall on Snow, Inadequate Protection, Fall
1993
Into Crevasse, Hypothermia,
Washington, Mount No Ice AxesFisher
Shuksan, Used to Prevent Rope
Chimneys
On July 7, 1992, at 1600, a nine
person party was descending Mount
Shuksan via Hell's Highway, a steep
transitional section from the Sulphide
Glacier to the Curtis Glacier. The
middle person, Silvia Cate (38) of the
0 343
second rope team, lost her footing in
Fall on Snow, Off Route, Inexperienced,1993
Wyoming, Grand Teton
Wyoming, National
Grand TetonPark, Middle
National Teton
Park,
Middle Teton
On May 30, 1992, a climber (20) and
his partner were on the way down
what they thought was the Southwest
Couloir of the Middle Teton, at 1630
and fell about 800 feet down a steep
snow slope and over two 40 to 50 foot
0 344
cliff bands. Both are unclear if the two
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Inexperienced,
1993 Wyoming,
Wyoming, GrandTeton
Grand TetonNational
NationalPark,
Park, Mount Teewin
Mount Teewinot
On July 10, 1992, at 1050, a victim
slipped and fell while attempting an
ascent of the east face of Teewinot.
She and her partner were at the
11,800 foot level near the bottom of
the snow-filled couloir that leads to
0 345
the summit of the peak, just 500 feet
Fall on Wet Rock, No Hard Hat, New Hampshire,
1993 Whitehorse
New LedgeWhitehorse Ledge
Hampshire,
On August 2, 1992, Steve Wickham
(32) was about 600 feet up on
“Wedge” when he fell. His rope was
clipped through about six pieces of
gear, with the final one being a 1 1/2
Friend which caught his fall of about
50 feet. He was upside down and
0 346
bleeding profusely, and he was
Fall While Descending, Off Route, Inadequate
1993 Experience, Etc., West
West Virginia, JudyVirginia, Judy Gap Rocks
Gap Rocks
On February 28, 1992, David Dugan
(42), Dean Beal (36), Belinda Smith,
and her son (10) set out to attempt
climbs on some obvious rock
pinnacles on the north side of Judy
Gap, about 15 miles south of Seneca
Rocks. (All are Grade 5, and although
0 347
the rocks are not frequently climbed,
Falling Rock Dislodged By Climber, Washington,
1993 Mount Shuksan,
Washington, Fisher
Mount Chimneys
Shuksan, Fisher
Chimneys
On June 20, 1992, Bill Peterson (33)
was descending the Fisher Chimneys
and was about 200 feet above the
base of the summit block when he
was struck by a large rock dislodged
from above. He fell 20 feet, landed on
0 348
his pack and helmet (on his head), fell
 Falling Rock, California, Yosemite National
1993 Park,California,
Mount Dana Yosemite National Park,
Mount Dana
On September 27, 1992, John Hart
(44) was belaying David Sanger (43)
one pitch above the bergschrund on
the left hand side of the Couloir on the
Dana Glacier. Hart was about 20 to
30 feet away from the rock wall and
0 349
anchored. He was unable to dodge a
Falling Rock, Loose Rock, Failure to Test
1993
Holds, Wyoming, WindWind River
RiverRange,
Range,Seneca
SenecaLake
Lake
A backpacking and climbing party of
eight, all from Minnesota, left the
trailhead at the Elkhart Park Guard
Station, in the Winds, on July 17,
1992, at 1200. They hiked in
approximately six miles and camped
0 350
at Eklund Lake. On Saturday, Paul
Falling Rock, Rock Dislodged By Partners,
1993Montana, Beartooth
Montana, Mountains
Beartooth Mountains
On September 2, 1992, Kimberly
Paulson (22) was with seven other
members of a Minneapolis, MN,
YMCA group when she was struck by
a falling rock that had been dislodged
by the person in front of her. The rock
weighed an estimated one ton. She
0 351
died from her injuries later that
Foothold Disintegrated, Fall on Rock, Protection
1993 Pulled
Oregon, Out, No Hard
Mount Hat, Oregon, Mount Washington
Washington
August 16, 1992. The Chimney of
Space route begins at a belay stance
about 20 feet off the ground. The lead
climber (30) led off by ascending a
narrow, diagonally upsloping ramp.
He used some existing slings and
placed other slings over rock horns so
0 353
there were four placements along the
Handhold Broke Off, Fall on Rock, No 1993
Belay Anchors, No Hard
Wyoming, Hats,
Grand Wyoming,
Teton Grand
National Teton National Pa
Park,
Death Canyon
On September 15, 1992, two
experienced climbers (31 and 30)
started up the Snaz shortly after noon
after registering for their climb that
morning at the Jenny Lake Ranger
Station. Since both of them had
0 354
climbed together for many years and
Inadequate Anchor, Fall on Rock, Falling
1993
Rock, Fatigue, Exceeding
Idaho, City Abilities, Idaho, City of Rocks
of Rocks
On March 25, 1992, Dan Maynes (24)
and I (23) were climbing at City of
Rocks National Reserve in Southern
Idaho. We had both just graduated in
Mechanical Engineering. Dan, who
had been climbing for two years, had
gotten me interested in climbing two
0 355
months earlier. Due to a mild winter,
 Inadequate Belay, Fall on Rock, Lightning,
1993Fear, Idaho,
Idaho,City
Cityof
ofRocks,
Rocks,Elephant Rock
Elephant Rock
On June 20, 1992, Lew Peterson (34)
and Mark Parent (35) were climbing
“Just Say No” (5.9) when the following
accident happened. Peterson was
belaying Parent, who had finished
leading the climb. Peterson was
lowering him using a figure 8 belay
0 356
device. The 165 foot rope which
Lightning, Late Start, Inexperience, Colorado,
1993 Rocky Mountain
Colorado, National
Rocky Park, Hallett
Mountain NationalPeak
Park, Hallett Peak
On June 28, 1992, at 2100, Glenn R.
McDonald (31) was struck and killed
by lightning near the summit of Hallett
Peak after ascending Hallett Chimney
II (5.6). McDonald and his partner
Wayne Smart were attempting to
0 358
summit when the incident occurred.
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Poor1993Position, Wyoming,
Wyoming, Grand
Grand Teton
Teton NationalPark,
National Park, Disappointme
Disappointment Peak
On July 17, 1992, at 1615, a climber
(29) was descending the Lake Ledges
route on Disappointment Peak when
he fell as he was attempting to
glissade down a small patch of snow
and was unable to perform a self-
0 359
arrest since his ice axe was strapped
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Wyoming,
1993 Grand Teton
Wyoming, National
Grand Park,
Teton Owen Couloir
National Park,
Owen Couloir
On June 9, 1992, H. Kammeyer (33)
and his partner departed from a high
camp at the Lower Saddle for an
ascent of the complete Exum Ridge
route on the Grand Teton. They
completed the route, reaching the
0 360
summit of the Grand around 1200.
Piton Pulled Out, Fall on Rock, Removed 1993
Protection
On Wyoming, Grand at
June 26, 1992, Teton National
1145, Roland Park, Guides' Wall
Fleck (59) was leading the “Flake
Pitch” on the regular Guides’ Wall
route belayed by partner Wes
Mostaert. This pitch is about 500 feet
off the ground and is considered to be
5.7 in difficulty. After clipping into a
fixed piton, Fleck apparently then
0 361
reached down and removed two other
Protection Pulled Out, Fall on Rock, California,
1993 Yosemite Valley,
California, El Capitan
Yosemite Valley, El
Capitan
On October 12, 1992, at 0730, Doug
Chabot (28) was leading the 26th
pitch of the Nose Route, El Capitan.
He was aiding up a crack 40 feet out
from the belay ledge (Camp
Five). While standing on a TCU (#0 or
0 362
#1), it popped from the crack. He also
pulled the stopper below the TCU. He
fell about 20 feet, landing on a ledge
 Protection Pulled Out, Fall on Rock, Inadequate
1993 Self-Belay
California,(Slack in Rope),
Yosemite California,
Valley, El Yosemite Valley,
Capitan
On Tuesday, October 13, 1992, Mark
Ousley (32) began a roped solo
ascent of the Shield (VI 5.9 A3). That
day he climbed another party’s fixed
lines to Heart Ledge and then climbed
the pitch to Mammoth Terrace, where
0 363
he spent the night. He was belaying
Stranded, Climbing Alone, Weather, Wyoming,
1993 Grand Teton Grand
Wyoming, National Park,National
Teton Grand Teton
Park,
Grand Teton
A climber (35) signed out on August
29, 1992, to do a solo climb of the
north ridge of the Grand Teton. He
discussed the route and his plans
extensively with the rangers on duty
at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station.
0 364
He failed to return as scheduled on
Stranded, Inadequate Equipment, Exceeding
1993 Abilities, Colorado,
Colorado,
the night theRocky
ofRocky Mountain
Mountain
31st and National Park, Lumpy R
National
Ranger
Park, Lumpy Ridge
Dorward (on routine patrol at the
On September
lower 2, 1992, atthat
saddle) determined 1615,hisNan
Derkiss (30) and John Quackenbush
became stranded when they got their
rope stuck on the second pitch of
Pear Buttress II (5.8+) on the Book on
Lumpy Ridge. Banger Scott Metcalfe
1 365
and Colorado Mountain School guide
Stranded, Off Route, Wyoming, Grand Teton
1993 National Park, Grand
Wyoming, GrandTeton
TetonSTRANDED, OFF ROUTE Wy
National Park,
Grand Teton
On July 24, 1993, at 2330, I received
a phone call from NPS dispatch. The
dispatcher told me that ranger Jim
Woodmencey was at the Lower
Saddle of the Grand Teton and
reported repeatedly seeing the
0 366
universal distress signal of three light
Stranded, Poor Communications, Inexperience,
1993 Weather, Colorado,
Colorado, Rocky Rocky Mountain
Mountain NationalNational Park, Twin
Park, Twin Owls
On June 9, 1992, at 1000, Brandon
Latham (20) and Tom Anderson (19)
began an ascent of Twin Owls via the
East Ridge I (5.8). At 1200 Anderson
was at the top of the second or final
pitch, and he began to belay Latham.
0 367
At this point, an intense thunderstorm
Stranded—Rappel Ropes Frozen, Darkness,1993Inadequate Equipment, New
New Hampshire, Hampshire,
Cathedral LedgeCathedral Ledge
On January 28, 1992, two ice
climbers (early 20s) got to within
about 50 feet of the top of Cathedral
Ledge. Because of approaching
darkness, they rappelled from a tree
growing on the ledge just below the
final chimney of Remission. When
0 368
they tried to pull down their rappel
 Avalance, Poor Choice of Route, Alberta,
1994
Rocky Mountains,
Two climbersPlain of Sixfrom
visiting Glaciers
Europe
attempted to reach Abbot s Pass from
Lake Louise on May 11, 1993. They
turned around due to the evident
avalanche hazard, but on the way
back they were hit by a large class-
three wet avalanche as they crossed
a ledge on the summer trail.
0 370
J.U. (29) was near the edge of the
Avalanche, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, 1994
Mount Temple
Alberta,
slide andRocky
escapedMountains, Mount
by pasting himself
Temple
under a slight overhang, where the
On August roared
avalanche 9, 1993, twohim.
over experienced
His
climbers, Matt and Julie Culberson
(both 35), started up the Aemmer
Couloir on Mount Temple (3545
meters) at 0700, planning to do the
East Ridge route in one day. Climbing
0 371
very quickly, they were three quarters
Avalanche, Poor Position and Timing, Inexperience,
1994 Alaska,
Alaska, Mount
Mount McKinley
McKinley
On June 8, 1993, Bertha Ramirez (41)
departed with the “Choolian”
expedition headed for the 8,000 foot
camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. The
three member team was attempting
the West Rib after losing the fourth
member to altitude sickness on the
0 372
West Buttress. They had reorganized
Avalanche, Poor Position, Apparent Lack
1994
of Knowledge
Alberta,ofRocky
Snowpack, Alberta,Mount
Mountains, Rocky Mountains, Mount
Snow Dome
On March 20, 1993, three
experienced mountaineers set out
from Highway 93 near the Columbia
Icefield to climb “Slipstream,” a
serious waterfall climb on the shoulder
of Snow Dome. The sky was clear,
0 373
but a storm system was expected to
Avalanche, Poor Position, Ignoring Hazards
1994 to Obtain Objective,
British Columbia,British Columbia,
Selkirk Selkirk Mountains, Br
Mountains,
Bruins Pass
On March 17, 1993, Fritz B. (33), from
Austria, and Herbert F. (50), from
Germany, skied up Connaught Creek
toward Bruins Pass after checking in
at Rogers Pass Ranger Station and
reading weather and avalanche
0 374
forecasts. They had planned this trip
Avalanche, Rockfall, Warm Weather, Yukon
1994 Territory,
YukonMount Logan,
Territory, EarlyLogan,
Mount Bird Buttress
Early
Bird Buttress
On May 19, 1993, three German
climbers, L.S., S.V., and S.W., were
established at an advanced base
camp for an attempt on the Early Bird
Buttress of the south face of Mount
Logan (6052 meters), after about a
0 375
week of exploring and acclimatizing
 Fall in Crevasse, Inadequate Equipment,1994
Inexperience,
BritishBritish Columbia,
Columbia, RockyRocky Mountains, Mount Robso
Mountains,
Mount Robson
C.C. and W.R. were descending
Mount Robson (3955 meters) on
August 5, 1993, after climbing the
Fuhrer Ridge. As they were crossing
the Robson Glacier, W.R. cut too
close to the edge of an open crevasse
0 376
and collapsed the lip. He fell about 20
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Alberta,
1994RockyAlberta,
Mountain, BowMountains,
Rocky Summit Area, Wet Dream Falls
Bow
Summit Area, Wet Dream Falls
On Feb. 2,1993, a party of two were
climbing the first pitch of this ice gully
The leader, P.F., placed a screw
midway up his 16 meter lead, and
unsuccessfully attempted to put in
another just below the top. He fell
0 377
while pulling over the edge, and a
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Alberta,
1994RockyOn Mountain, Sunwapta
March 8,1993, Passand
K.P. Area, Panther
T.A. were Falls
climbing Panther Falls in the
Sunwapta Pass area. One of them led
out on a six-meter pillar, placed two
screws for protection, and then ran
the rope out to 45 meters. The ledge
he was standing on collapsed,
resulting in a ground fall, in which he
0 378
suffered five fractured ribs, one lung
Fall on Ice, No Protection, Fatigue, Inexperience,
1994 Alberta,
On Rocky Mountains,
the morning of FebruaryMount Athabasca
13, 1993,
a party of two from Washington state
set out to climb the north face of
Mount Athabasca. Their intent was to
complete the route and return to their
vehicle later the same day, but they
were not able to move as fast as they
intended. They were forced to bivouac
0 379
overnight on a small ledge just below
Fall on Ice, Unroped, Ice Collapse, Warm1994
Weather,OnQuebec,
January Montreal,
6, 1993,Mont
M.D.Royal
(29), an
experienced ice climber and a
member of the FQM, went out with a
friend to practice climbing on an ice
flow at Mont Royal. About 1405, while
he was climbing unroped, the ice
broke away under his crampons and
he fell some 20 meters, sustaining a
0 380
pelvis fracture and a dislocated hip.
Fall on Loose Rock, Weather, Party Separated,
1994 California,
California,Yosemite Valley,
Yosemite Sentinel
Valley, Rock
Sentinel
Rock
On May 31, 1993, at 1630, John
McMillan reported his climbing
partner, Ian Johnston (27) overdue
from descending Sentinel Rock. After
climbing the Chouinard/Herbert route
on Sentinel, they spent the night at
0 381
the summit. They had split up on the
 behavior for Hersey), told Leubben to
call 911 from the gas station pay
phones. Leubbens did so, contacting
NPS dispatcher Nancy Savage at
0603. Rangers were then dispatched
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped, to contact
1994 Alberta,
D.L. Rocky Leubben.
Mountains,
was soloing Mountridge
the north Whyte of
Leubben said
Mount Whyte on thatAugust
he and1,Hersey
1993,
were
when both independent
he fell on fourth-classguides in He
rock.
Colorado and had driven out
is unsure of how far he fell, but was in to
Yosemite
a lot of painonwhen
vacation, planning on
he regained
spending about 12
consciousness. He days there. Both
descended to the
Leubben and Haston
Whyte-Niblock col andsaid
metthat Hersey
a party
had
comingnot from
beenMount
drinking (beyond
Niblock. an
They
0 382 occasional beer,
sent for help and nothing to excess)
started descending
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
1994 No Helmet,
L.O.,
duringan Alberta,
timeFront
experienced
the he was Ranges,
and Canyon Creek Crags
capable
in Yosemite,
rock climber who had pioneered
and not depressed and did not have many
difficult routes,
anything weighing went climbing
heavily alone on
on his
May 25,
mind, and1993,
was at CanyoninCreek
generally good in the
Elbow West
spirits. They district of Kananaskis
both stressed that the
Country. He was
Steck-Salathe reported
route was well overdue
within
that nightabilities
Hersey's about 2330.to free solo, that he
Cochrane
was one ofRCMPthe bestcontacted
free soloists in
0 383
Kananaskis
the world. Emergency Center and
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
1994 Weather—Probably,
requested California,
a search dog. Yosemite Valley, Sentinel R
District
They said that Hersey believed in
Rangers
maintaining began to assemble
as large a margin of
safety as possible. Reflection
centered on the weather as a possible
factor in the fall, although that was
entirely speculation. (Source: Robert
Bowen and John Dill, NPS Rangers,
0 384 Yosemite National Park)
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, California,
1994 Joshua Tree National
California, Joshua Monument,
Tree NationalEcho Cave
Monument, Echo Cove
On May 1, 1993, at 1413,1 was
notified of a climbing accident in the
Echo Cove area of Lost Horse. I
arrived on scene at 1425 and got to
the victim at 1435.1 found Matthew A.
Walker (20) lying on a ledge about 40
0 385
feet off the ground. Around 1400
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection (Pulled
1994Out),Alberta,
Alberta, Rocky
Rocky Mountains,
Mountains,Lake LakeLouise, Back of the La
Louise, Rack of the Lake Crag
C.T. and R.W. were climbing a 5.9
route at the Back of the Lake on
September 27,1993, when C.T. fell
while leading. His last piece of
protection, a wire stopper with
quickdraw, pulled out and he fell 15
0 386
meters, fracturing ribs and a shoulder.
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Alberta,
1994 Rocky Mountains,
Alberta, RockyLake Louise, Back
Mountains, Lakeof the Lake
Louise, Back of the Lake Crag
D.L. was leading a pitch at the Back
of the Lake Crag on June 6, 1993
when he fell. His protection pulled,
and he hit the ground, sustaining a
compound fracture of the ankle. He
was evacuated by the Parks Canada
0 387
Warden Service rescue team, by
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Poor
1994
Position, "Attitude,"
California, California,
Joshua TreeJoshua Tree National Monumen
National
Monument, Feudal Wall
On March 12,1993, a male climber
(early 20s) was leading Coyote in the
Bushes (5.10a) on Feudal Wall above
campsite 7. He was belayed. He
moved past the first two bolts and up
to a spot where the guidebook (Rock
0 388
Climbs of Indian Cove by Alan
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Quebec,
1994 ValOn David, Mount King
September 25,1993, F.C. (30),
with seven years’ climbing
experience, and F.D. (33) with two
years experience, were attempting
“The Crown,” a medium difficult route
on Mount King. F.C. was leading the
final pitch when she fell. Although she
had placed three pieces of protection,
0 389
the last two pulled out, so she fell
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, Inadequate 1994
Belay, Arizona, Desert
Arizona, Botanical
Desert Garden
Botanical Garden
On March 13, 1993, a 17-year-old
Chandler boy suffered minor injuries
when he fell 50 feet during a
mountain-climbing class at Hole-in-
the-Rock near the Desert Botanical
Garden.
Derrick Higgins, a novice climber, had
0 390
rappelled down the face of the
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection,
1994Protection Pulledand
California,
mountain Out,
DonnerTrying
was to Look
Summit,
climbing Good,
Nova
back up California, Donn
Express
when he slipped and fell, said Steve
On June 16, 1993, I was attempting to
lead a route which I had tried twice
before but had never led. I’ve been
climbing two full seasons, but have
just started leading on pro. My
climbing is relatively strong, but
0 391
choice and placement of gear is still
Fall on Rock, Protection Probably Pulled,
1994
California, Yosemite
California, Valley, Higher
Yosemite Valley,Cathedral
Higher Rock
Cathedral Rock
On September 29,1993, about 1100,
Rui Ferreira walked into the Valley
District office and reported his
climbing partner, Gustavo
Brillembourg (35) had fallen on Higher
Cathedral Rock the previous evening
0 392
and had died.
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Climber
1994 FellCalifornia,
on Belayer,Joshua
California,
TreeJoshua Tree National Monument
National
Monument, Bridge of Sighs
On February 5, 1993,1 was notified of
a climbing accident in Rattlesnake
Picnic Area. Some Marines from a
group in the campground had come
down to tell us about the accident.
They said the subject had a broken
0 393
leg and that some of their group had
 Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inadequate
1994 Belay, No Hard
Arizona, Hat, Arizona,
Oak Creek Canyon Oak Creek Canyon Overloo
Overlook
On May 22, 1993, on a climb called
“Crack Up” (5.9), Richard Forbes (34)
was leading above his belayer,
Sandra Draus (46), who was
apparently 25 feet above the ground
on a ledge. Witnesses indicated that
Forbes was about 30 feet above his
0 394
belayer when he fell unexpectedly,
Fall on Rock, Unroped, Alberta, Rocky 1994
Mountains, Grotto Rocky
Alberta, CanyonMountains, Grotto
Canyon
On the evening of August 8,1993,
Bow Valley Ambulance in Canmore
was called about a climbing accident
in Grotto Canyon. They notified
Kananaskis Central District, who
dispatched rangers to the scene, and
0 395
asked other rangers and Canmore
Fall on Rock, Unroped, Exceeding Abilities,
1994 PartyASeparated, Alberta,
party of two Rocky
set out Mountains,
to climb the Mount Athabasc
north ridge of Mount Athabasca on
the morning of February 26, 1993.
They crossed the North Glacier to
gain access to the ridge; once on the
rock, they elected to unrope. At the
section of the ridge identified as the
“crux,” the two climbers split up in
0 396
order to determine the best route.
Fall on Rock, Unroped, Handhold Failure,
1994
Alberta,
AtRocky
1515 Mountains,
on March 31, Cosmology Craga
1993, J.B.,
member of the Association of
Canadian Mountain Guides, contacted
Bow Valley Provincial Park to report
that an unidentified climber had fallen
approximately 25 meters, coming to
rest on the canyon floor of Couger
Creek.
0 397
It was learned that C.N. and his
Fall on Snow, Ascending Too Fast, HAPE,1994Inadequate Equipment,
Alaska,
partner Mount
had Placed No Protection,
McKinley
unsuccessfully attemptedDescending Unro
On May 14 Charles Cearley
a hard route on Cosmology crag; (40) and
C.N.
the Edwards brothers flew
then suggested his partner go into
Kahiltna base camp. Their climbing
itinerary was first to attempt the
Lowe/Kennedy Route on Mount
Hunter, and then go on to Denali’s
Cassin Ridge.
0 398
While in base camp they heard the
Fall on Snow, Fatigue, Dehydration, Weather,
1994 Determination
Alaska,
avalanche to Summit,
Mount Alaska,
McKinley
conditions on Mount Mount McKinley
On May 15, 1993, the Colorado
Hunter were hazardous. They waited
Marmot
until theyExpedition
thought the started
route their climb
was safe.
of the West Buttress Route. The climb
went routinely from the landing strip to
the high camp at 17,000 feet. The
group had unsuccessfully attempted
the West Buttress in 1988 and were
0 399
familiar with the route, weather, and
 feet below the top of the cliff. They
requested ranger assistance.
NPS planned for a major SAR.
Incident command positions were
assigned. At 1703, Rescue 2
Fall on Snow, Ski Mountaineering, Exceeding helicopter
1994 Abilities, was
Lakeplaced
Weather,
California, Tahoeon alert
Equipment, at
California, Lake Tahoe
Naval Air Station Lemoore
On March 28, 1993, at 0930, Peter and
dispatched
Purgalis (54) atfractured
1720. Park hiscontract
left ankle
helicopter 51 was called
during a fall while skiing with in to aElfull
Capitan
pack on Meadow
the Trans-hut to ferry routerescuers
west ofand
gear and SAR site
Lake Tahoe just above Tamarackwas paged out.
Three teams
Lake. This was weretheflown
morning to the
of thetop of
El Capitan
second daytoofplace fixed lines.
a planned week long
0 400 Helicopter 51 was
traverse from Echothen free to fly the
to Donner
Falling Rock, No Hard Hat, California, 1994
Yosemite California,
Valley, ElRock
Sentinel Capitan
Yosemite
descent Valley,
gully.El At 1927
Capitan
the earlier reported overdue climber
On April
was spotted11, 1993,
havingarounddifficulty 1100,
withMike an
Fischesser
injured leg. (40ish)
He wasand rescuedJoe Lackey
using
were ascending
Lemoore's Rescue fixed ropes to reach
2 helicopter.
their gear
From the topon Sickle Ledge (top
of El Capitan SARofsite
pitch #4) Tom
member on the Nose was
Rorges routelowered
of El Cap. to
When
the Mike reached
climber’s locationthe with topdryofclothes.
the first
0 401
ropetwo
The anchors,
climbers he was
werestruck in good in the top
Frostbite, Exposure, Weather, Alaska, Mount
1994 Foraker
Alaska, Mount Foraker
enough condition to be able to jumar
On April 4, 1993, the Alaskan
the fixed lines to the top and arrived
Archangel Expedition, consisting of
about 2300. They were given dry
eight British servicemen, flew into
clothes, sleeping bags and a tent for
Lake Minchumina for the approach to
the night. At 0711 on June 1,
Mount Foraker.
Helicopter 51 flew the climbers to El
On April 5, they began their approach
Capitan Meadow. They were then
up the Foraker River by dogsled. A
0 402 driven to the SAR cache.
cache was buried at the terminus of
Frostbite, Inadequate Clothing, Dehydration, Analysis
1994 Failure
theto
Alaska,Descend,
ForakerMount Inexperience,
McKinley
Glacier, Alaska,the
for supplying Mount McKinley
These
On June two 7,experienced
1993, Juliane climbers
(ages 28 and 33)
Manelshagen (29),were
along short
withon Eier
adequate gear. The introduction
Helmut and Hermann Pinggera, left to
Meyers’ and Reid’s Yosemite
the 14,200 foot camp on the West Climbs
is entitledestablishing
Buttress, “Staying Alive,” a camp and at says,
among other things:
17,200 feet. They left the following
Never
morning, relyaton cotton
0800, foror downPass.
Denali (even if
0 403 covered with one of thefeet,
Upon reaching 18,200
HAPE, HACE, Ascending Too Fast, Dehydration,
1994 Alaska, Mount
Alaska, Mount McKinley
waterproof/breathable fabrics. A
On
warning:31,
May 1993,climbers
several the Denali have ’93
Australian-Salzburg
blamed the waterproof/breathableExpedition flew to
the Southwest Fork of the
fabrics for their rescues or close calls. Kahiltna
Glacier
They to begin
claim that no their climb of
version of itthecan
Westthe
take Buttress.
punishment The six of person
a storm on the
expedition
walls. Whetherwas trueled andor not, guidedyou by must
Robert
be Strouhal.
the judge; test this type of gear
0 405
The group
ahead arrived
of time under at miserable
the 14,300 foot
Mild Hypothermia, Dehydration, Inadequate
1994 Equipment
camp on andJune
Water, California, Yosemite 6, Valley, El Capita
conditions, but 5, 1993.you
where OnexitJune is an
1993,one.
easy they climbed to the 16,200 foot
level. During their ascent
For sleeping ledges, take to 16,200
a big tent fly
or a piece of heavy duty, reinforced
plastic and the means to pitch it.
(Source: Greg Maguder and John Dill,
SAR Rangers, Yosemite National
0 407 Park)
 Protection Came Off, Shoulder Dislocation,
1994California, Yosemite
California, Valley,Valley,
Yosemite Half Dome
Half
Dome
On September 9, 1993, at 1700, I was
dispatched to the SAR cache to work
as the medic on a Half Dome SAR.
Warner Braun, Pat Sullivan and I
were flown to the base of Half Dome
where we made contact with Fred
0 408
Berman (27) who had injured his right
Pulmonary Edema, Ascending Too Fast,1994
Alaska, Mount
On May McKinley
18, 1993, at 1400, SSgt.
Michael J. Dunn (31) reported to the
ranger camp at the 14,200 foot level
of Mount McKinley's West Buttress
complaining of severe headache,
nausea, and the production of bloody
sputum during coughing. Dunn was
one of 15 U. S. Marines that had split
0 409
into several groups once on the
Rappel Error, No Backup, Alberta, Rocky
1994
Mountains, Tunnel
Alberta, Mountain
Rocky Mountains, Tunnel
Mountain
On March 11, 1993, two climbers,
both 22 years old, with several years
experience, decided to take
advantage of unseasonably warm
weather to climb “Gooseberry,” a
moderate six-pitch rock route rated
0 410
5.7, very close to Banff. Starting at
Rappel Error—No Backup/Belay, Inexperience,
1994 Weather, British Columbia,
The Watchtower Park Range,
(2543 meters) is a Watchtower Peak
grade 5.7 rock climb in Yoho National
Park. On August 14, 1993, N.W. and
J.O. set out from the Lake O’Hara
road at 1500 to climb it. They hiked to
the base of the peak and ascended
the technical pitches on its south side,
reaching the summit at 1930, with
0 411
darkness 2.5 hours away. The
Rockfall, Bad Luck, Alberta, Rocky Mountains,
1994 Banff Area,
Alberta, Cascade
Rocky Falls
Mountains, Banff Area,
Cascade Falls
Two male climbers, (26 and 27)
arrived from France in February,
1993, for an ice-climbing holiday. On
their first day in the area, they chose
Cascade Falls, a popular grade- three
waterfall climb near Banff.
0 412
It was mid-morning on February 26
Rope Stuck on Rappel, Stranded, California,
1994 Yosemite
and theValley,
California, Royalwas
Yosemite
weather Arches
Valley, Royal
clear and cold:
Arches
climbing conditions were good.
On Juneparty
Another 16, 1993, around well
was already 1630,upErika
on
Heine (19) and Tracy Walker (29)
stuck their rope while rappelling on
the Royal Arches descent route. They
were at the third rappel station. They
had tied a knot into the end of the
0 413
rope as a safety precaution. While
 Slingshot Belay Anchor Failure, Fall on1994
Rock, Falling Rock,Superstition
Arizona, Arizona, Superstition
Mountains, Mountains,
Bark Bark Canyo
Canyon
On November 11, 1993, a small group
went into Bark Canyon to do some
climbing. All but one of the group had
six months to two years of scattered
experience, and all had taken basic
instruction previously. Heading toward
0 414
the canyon, they spotted a chimney
Slip on Ice, Unroped, Alberta, Rocky Mountains,
1994 Scott Icefield
Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Scott
Icefield
On August 18, 1993, J.B. and A.G.
were out for a day trip on the Scott
Glacier. J.B. was walking above A.G.
and about 60 meters above the toe of
the glacier, when J.B. slipped and fell.
The ice was too steep and hard for
0 415
him to self-arrest, and he slid out of
Slip on Snow, Inadequate Footwear, Alaska,
1994 Mount McKinley
Alaska, Mount McKinley
In June, 1993, I was on the West
Buttress of Mount McKinley with six
fellow Californians. Three days into
the trip we were camped at the base
of Ski Hill (7,700 feet). We had a dug-
in kitchen with three steps leading
down into it.
0 416
While going down these steps in my
Slip on Snow, Unroped, Alberta, Rocky1994
Mountains, Mount
Alberta,
down Deltaform
Rocky
booties, I Mountains,
slipped. MyMount
full weight
Deltaform
came down on my left ankle which
On
made August 21, similar
a sound 1993, K.V. and R.P.
to cracking your
were doing the traverse of the Ten
Peaks from west to east. While
descending the east ridge of Mount
Deltaform (3425 meters) unroped,
K.V. slipped on a patch of snow and
0 417
fell 150 meters down the south face to
Stranded, Exceeding Abilities, Weather,1994
Alberta, Rocky
A partyMountains,
consistingMount
of twoAndromeda
men and a
woman set out to climb the “Sky
Ladder” route on Mount Andromeda
on the morning of June 21,1993. By
1400 they were on the summit. As
they approached the descent route,
the weather began to deteriorate. As
a result of poor visibility, fatigue, and
1 418
the exposure of the descent route, the
Stranded, Fatigue, Inexperience, Party Separated,
1994 Quebec,
Late Old Stoneham
on August Cliffs
22, 1993, Benoit L.
(24) and Stephan G. (25) decided to
climb Old Stoneham bluff, and started
up with minimal equipment that
included a rope, flashlight, and first-
aid kit. After the approach, they
entered steeper terrain, which
involved rock scrambling and became
1 419
quite exposed. About 80 meters up,
 of the climbing party, there are
several problems here. The North
Face route was obviously beyond
their abilities to complete within
daylight hours, at least as they had
"Unfounded," Colorado, Rocky Mountain 1994
National Park, Longs Peak
planned their trip with three on a rope
and within one day. Especially serious
was their poor conduct on the rappels,
as their yelling initiated a false rescue
response. (Source: Jim Detterline,
Longs Peak Supervisory Climbing
Ranger, Rocky Mountain National
1 420 Park)
Avalanche, Wyoming, Grand Teton National1994 Park,Wyoming,
Mount MoranGrand Teton National Park,
Mount Moran
On July 28, 1993, PM (male—42),
MG (female—37), and JG (male— 38)
attempted to climb the Skillet Glacier
route on Mount Moran.
About 1245, they were about 200 feet
below the top of the snow tongue
0 421
which extends toward the summit
Dehydration, Inadequate Fluids, Misperception,
1994 California,
California,Yosemite
Yosemite
from the “Handle” Valley,
of El El
Valley,
the Capitan
Skillet. A soft
Capitan
On October 22,1993, at 1215 cries for
help were reported from high on the
Salathe route of El Capitan. Two
climbers were discovered calling for
help due to lack of water. A lowering
team was flown to the top and one
0 422
rescuer was lowered to their location.
Exposure, Inadequate Equipment and Physical
1994 Conditioning,
Washington, Weather,
Mount Inexperience,
Rainier Washington, Mount R
On March 8, 1993, at 0920, RMI
senior guide George Dunn radioed to
Paradise that three independent
climbers would need to be rescued.
The climbers were members of the
George Laquan party, and were
suffering from frostbite, hypothermia,
1 423
and exposure. They were located at
Fall Into Crevasse, Uncontrolled Glissade,
1994Descending Unroped,Olympic
Washington, Washington, Olympic
National National Park, Mo
Park,
Mount Olympus
On June 16, 1993, Mason Flint, David
Whiting and Paul Hood left the Hoh
Ranger Station in Olympic National
Park for a planned five day backpack
and climb of Mount Olympus, about
20 miles from the trailhead. While
0 424
trekking to the base camp, they were
Fall on Ice, Unable to Self-Arrest, Oregon,
1994North Oregon,
Sister, Thayer
NorthGlacier
Sister, Thayer Glacier
On August 14,1993, Erinn Broszman
(22) slid 400 feet down the side of a
steep Central Oregon glacier. She
died of her injuries before Deschutes
County Search and Rescue
volunteers could reach her late
Saturday afternoon.
0 425
Her hiking companion, John Stroud
(22), also tumbled down Thayer
Glacier on the east face of the North
Sister, suffering minor rib and head
 Fall on Rock While Being Lowered, Inadequate
1994 Rope
Idaho,Length, NoRocks
City of Hard Hat, Misperception, Idaho, City of
The following excerpts are from, an
article written by Thomas Dewell, sent
by a member—but without reference
to the newspaper it appeared in.)
Luke Kellam had no problem climbing
“Fall Line,” a technically difficult route
at the City of Rocks recreation area in
0 426
Idaho.
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Illinois,
1994Mississippi Palisades
Illinois, State Park
Mississippi Palisades State
Park
On October 3,1993, a man (mid-20s)
fell 25 feet while freesoloing a route.
The extent of his injuries is not known.
(Source: From an article in the Quad
City Times, August 30, 1993)
(Editor’s Note: This area has become
0 427
very popular, part of this having to do
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, No Experience,
1994 No Equipment,
Connecticut,
with Connecticut,
proximityRagged
to Ragged
Mountain,
two major Mountain, Main C
cities.Main
As
Cliff
AAC member Budge Gierke, who sent
On November 6, 1993, two friends
decided to try mountain biking in a
new area. They entered Ragged
Mountain Preserve, but found the
biking there unsatisfactory. Chris
Dean (21) had never done any
0 428
climbing but had seen (solo) climbing
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Equipment, Off-Route,
1994 Unroped,
Wyoming, Wyoming, GrandNational
Grand Teton Teton National
Park, Park, Mount
Mount Moran
Beset by bad weather and injury, a
climber wearing shorts, running tights
and a light jacket spent two nights on
Mount Moran without overnight gear
before rangers found him early May
30.
0 429
BJ (48) was found resting in a gully on
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, North
1994Carolina,
North
MountCrowders Mountain
Carolina,
Morans StateMountain
Crowders
south face. Park
He was
State Park
cradling a broken arm when rescuers
On
were Mayable23,1993, Danout
to haul him Plaisted
by (31)
was standing on the cliff, preparing to
return to the bottom and begin his
climb, when he suddenly fell, said
park supervisor Joe Sox.
Plaisted broke several bones. He was
0 430
airlifted to Carolnas Medical Center in
Fall on Rock, Pitons Pulled Out, Illinois,1994
Mississippi Palisades
Illinois,
Charlotte, State he
Mississippi
where Park
Palisades State
was in critical
Park
condition Sunday night, a hospital
On August 29, 1993, Ted Rogers (25)
fell 30 feet from a climb he was on.
The pins he had placed “gave way.”
The extent of his injuries is not known.
(Source: From an article in the Quad
City Times, August 30, 1993)
0 432
 Fall on Rock, Tripped on Rope, No Hard 1994
Hat, California, Yosemite
California, Valley,
Yosemite Glacier
Valley, Point Apron
Glacier
Point Apron
On September 26, 1993, at 1350
Gleed Toombes (41) took a 25 foot
leader fall while climbing a route
called the Green Dragon on the
Glacier Point Apron. Toombes was
flipped upside down by his tripping
0 434
over his climbing rope causing him to
Fall on Rock, Weather, No Spotter and 1994
No Hard Hat, Washington,
Washington, Icicle
Icicle River
River Canyon
Canyon
On April 17, 1993, the Everett
Mountaineers were conducting a part
of their Alpine Scramble course when
an instructor (male—67) fell while
bouldering. He had done several
layback maneuvers, but then slipped
and fell about five feet, hitting his
0 435
head on a large, sharp boulder. His
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, No1994
Hard Hat,Colorado,
Colorado,Rocky
Rocky Mountain
Mountain National
NationalPark, Longs Peak
Park, Longs Peak
On February 3, 1993, at 1200, Carl
Siegel (30) and Tim Cumbo (35) were
descending the Cables (North Face)
Route on Longs Peak after having
successfully completed a five day
ascent of D7 on the Diamond face.
0 436
Siegel fell from a snowpatch about
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Wyoming,
1994 Grand Teton Grand
Wyoming, National Park,National
Teton Grand Teton
Park,
Grand Teton
On August 13, 1993, CR (27) was
returning via the Owen-Spalding route
from a successful climb of the Exum
Ridge on the Grand Teton. At 1230 he
was descending steep snow just
below the upper saddle when he
0 437
slipped, failed to self-arrest, and fell
Falling Ice, Weather—Unstable Conditions,
1994 Poor Colorado,
Belay Position,
RockyColorado,
MountainRocky Mountain National Par
National
Park
On January 1,1993, Henry Browning
(35) and David Pyatt (34) set off to
climb Jaws II WI 4-5, a frozen
waterfall route in the Windy Gulch
area of Rocky Mountain National
Park. It was a warm day, with
1 438
temperatures above freezing, and
Falling Rock, Idaho, Rocky Canyon 1994 Idaho, Rocky Canyon
On Sunday, April 25, I was involved in
a rock climbing accident in Rocky
Canyon and was able to experience
technical rescue from the patients
perspective.
David Anjelkovich, Sara Pedde and I
decided to climb a bolted route we
0 439
found on a face in Rocky Canyon. We
got started about 0700, with Dave
 up Sonnerup and deliver him directly
to the hospital.
Peterson counted the rescue as one
of his trickiest. He said there was only
room on the rock where he landed for
1994 de part
Falling Rock, Poor Position, Colorado, Sangre of Range,
Cristo
Colorado, a skid. He said
Crestone
Sangre he had
Needle
de Cristo only
Range,
about a six
Crestone Needle foot clearance for the
blades.
On August 22, 1993, a 38 year old
He
mansaidwasthe county’s
struck by a helicopter,
falling rockwhich near
is often used in mountain
the summit of Crestone Needle rescues, while
was not large
climbing enough.
with four others. HeHe borrowed
was
the DNR
struck helicopter
in the face, and on then
loan to fellChelan
down
County
the slope. Fire
A District 1. “It was
body recovery was just
0 440 something
completed the the JetnextRanger
day. couldn’t
Falling Rock, Poor Position, Washington,
1994
North Twin
On Sister
do,”June
he 6, 1993,
said. “It hada group
to be aoflarger,
five
Bellingham Mountaineers
platform helicopter, like the ones the were
ascending
(Chelan the South
County) Face to the just
commissioners West
Ridge of(for
denied North Twin Sister
purchase). There onwasn’t
the
second day
enough timeoftoacall Basic
for Course.
the Air Force They
started
or Armyup a short gully,
helicopters.” after just
(Source: From a
startingsubmitted
report the rock portion
by Fredwhen Stanley) two
On
largeOctober
rocks
(Editors Note:9,1993,
(bowling
We don’t Joel Blumhagen
ballknow
size) kicked
how the
0 441 (43)
looseand
rock was Darby
between
dislodged, Roach
the butwere
leader we and climbing
do the
know
Falling Rock, Washington, Icicle River 1994
Canyon, Snow
the Lakes
thatstandard
Sonneruproute was on ableChair Peak.his
to belay At
1245 Blumhagen
partner. Sonnerup’s clipped
leg had intotoan beold
piton behind a flake. The
amputated below the knee, but he is flake
dislodged
already skiingand again.
fell on We him,also starting
knowa
small
that the rescue team was calledthe
avalanche, and he fell. In in by
process of the fall, and
cellular telephone, he losttime hiswas
helmet,
of
sustaining
the essence terminal head injuries.
in this case.)
0 442 Several medical personnel were in the
vicinity. He was reported deceased at
Falling Rock/Piton Pulled Out, Placed Inadequate
1994 Protection, Fall on Rock Washington, Chair Peak
1330.
Analysis
We suspect he placed his weight on
the piton. It was rusted and the flake
cracked. One of our people
commented, “We climb past that one!”
(Source: Paul M. Williams, Seattle
0 443 Mountain Rescue)
Improper Decision—Failing to Turn Back,1994Weather, Inadequate
Oregon, Mount Equipment,
Hood Failure to Follow Route, Oreg
On May 1, 1993, Robert McQueen
(38), Lisa Padilla (42), and Lance
Piatt (32) were descending Mount
Hood in an intensifying storm. In their
own words:
“We were descending the hogsback.
Due to the stinging ice particles, we
0 448
could only glance at our route.
Inadequate Belay, Fall on Rock, Wyoming,
1994Devil's Tower very
Wyoming,
Although Devil’s Tower
familiar with the route,
On August 23, 1993, at 0830, Nate
Beckwith (21), David Haagensen (23)
and Jung Soo (21) were climbing the
first pitch of Soler (5.8+). Beckwith
was belaying Haagensen, who,
approximately 100 feet up the climb,
took a 25-35 foot lead fall. Haagensen
0 449
sustained minor lacerations to his left
 Loss of Control—Glissade, Crampon Caught
1994 on Ice, Oregon,
Oregon, Mount
Mount Hood
Hood
On May 23, 1993, Jason Bacon (22)
said that he was sliding down the
mountain when suddenly his crampon
caught on the ice and he heard a loud
pop in his leg. He was evacuated by
Portland Mountain Rescue. (Source:
C. Nolte, Portland Mountain Rescue)
0 450
Loss of Control—Glissade, No Ice Axe,1994
Inexperience, Oregon,
Oregon, MountMount Hood
Hood
On June 9,1993, Gary Whalen told
me that he and his companion were
glissading down from the Hogsback
when suddenly his friend went over a
large cliff and tumbled down about
200 feet. In calling down to his friend
he said that he was told that he
0 451
thought he had broken his leg or
Rock Broke Loose, Fall on Rock, Ice Tools
1994and Pitons PulledGrand
Wyoming, Out, Wyoming, Grand Teton
Teton National Park,National Park,
Grand Teton
On March 11,1993, around 1000,
ranger Renny Jackson received a
report of a climbing accident on the
Grand Teton. According to the
reporting party, MV, his partner, PR,
had fallen 100 feet while attempting a
0 453
route on the north face. The fall
Stranded, Hair Caught in Rappel Device,
1994
Exceeding Abilities,
Vermont, Etc., Vermont,
Smuggler’s Smuggler's Notch
Notch
On September 11, 1993, at 1400,
Stowe Hazardous Terrain was
dispatched to Smuggler's Notch to
assist one or more reportedly injured
rock climbers. Upon arrival they were
informed that one climber had fallen
with unknown injuries, and another
1 454
had caught her hair in her rappel
Stranded, Oregon, Mount Jefferson 1994 Oregon, Mount Jefferson
On September 17, 1993, William
Reeves (47), an experienced hiker,
was on a four-day trip around the
summit of the 10,497-foot peak when
he became stranded away from his
base camp during a snowstorm.
Jefferson County sheriff's Deputy
1 455
John Martinez said Reeves is an
Stranded, Rappel Rope Jammed, Weather,
1994Exceeding Abilities,
Colorado,
experienced Colorado,
Rocky Rocky
Mountain
climber and Mountain
survival National Park,
National
had
Park, Hallett Peak
gear back at the base camp and was
On July 3, 1993, Tor Anderson (20)
and Brandon Latham (21) became
stranded on the Northcutt-Carter
Route III 5.7 on the North Face of
Hallett Peak, as they attempted to
rappel the route in retreat. One of the
2 456
ropes pulled clear of the rappel setup
 Stranded, Unable to Find Route, Weather,
1994Inadequate Equipment,
Colorado, Rocky Exhaustion,
MountainHypothermia,
National Etc., Colorad
Park, Longs Peak
On September 12, 1993, at 2330,
Rocky Mountain National Park
rangers were notified about an
overdue party of two climbers
attempting a route on the East Face
of Longs Peak. Charles B. “Bo” Judd
0 457
(34) and Thomas Kelly (27) had
Acute Mountain Sickness, Fatigue, Dehydration,
1995 Alaska,
Alaska,Mount
MountMcKinley
McKinley
On the evening of June 1, 1994,
Bennett Austin (29) developed a
severe case of acute mountain
sickness while climbing between
19,000 and 19,400 feet on the West
Rib route of Mount McKinley. At 0200
on June 2, a fixed wing aircraft was
0 459
launched with a ranger aboard to
Anchor Failure—Sling Burned Through,1995
Inexperience, California,
California, Yosemite
Yosemite Valley,
Valley, Reed's Pinnacle
Reed’s
Pinnacle
On June 12, 1994, four Swiss
climbers were top roping an unnamed
60 foot pitch in the corner formed by
the left side of Reeds Pinnacle.
Fabian Nuescheler (23) first climbed
to the top by an alternate route, rigged
0 460
a belay anchor and rappelled. For the
Avalanche — Misjudged History of Snow1995Pack, Alberta,
Alberta,Rocky
RockyMountains, Mount
Mountains, Athabasca
Mount
Athabasca
On August 31, 1994, mountain guide
J.B. and three students on an
Association of Canadian Mountain
Guides course climbed Mount
Athabasca (3490 meters) by the
Northeast Ridge. They started to
0 461
descend a variation of the Silverhorn
Avalanche, Poor Position, Underestimated
1995 Conditions, Alaska,
Alaska, Mount
Mount Hunter
Hunter
On May 5, 1994, Andy Carson and
Charles Crago triggered an avalanche
and were carried 800 feet down the
route they were attempting on Mount
Hunter.
The team—totaling five people—was
attempting the North West Basin
0 462
Variation to gain the West Ridge. This
Cornice Collapsed, Fall on Snow, Exceeding
1995 Abilities, Climbing
Alaska, Unroped,
Palmer,
is a popular Alaska,
Knik Valley
variation that Palmer,
avoids a Knik Valley
In early April of 1994, Martin Martinez’
climbing partner vanished after a
cornice gave way, resulting in a long
plunge down the side of a deep
couloir in the Knik Valley, near
Palmer.
Martinez said he didn’t see her fall.
0 463
He crawled out onto the snow and
called her name. There was no
response, and finally Martinez trudged
 he been wearing a helmet. Climbers
(buyers) beware! You are engaging in
an exciting and potentially dangerous
activity.
Rescues are risky for all involved, so
Fall on Ice, Placed No Protection, Alberta,
1995 Rockyrealize
Mountains,
Alberta, Mount
Rocky
that Aberdeen
Mountains,
there may be noMount
one
Aberdeen
trained or willing to pluck your injured
A party
butt from ofthe
fourside
were
of starting up the
a rock, but
bare lower
having ice slopes
rescue/First of trained
Aid- the North
Glacier
people can on Mt. Aberdeen
improve those(3152
possibilities
meters) on July 23, 1994.
slightly. Without the helitac, They were
we were
roped together with a spacing
planning a six hour descent from of
about
Lunch 10 meters,
Rock, with gotta
and you no protection
realize or
0 464
belays.
that you cannot depend upon thehis
The leader fell, dragging
Fall on Rock and Falling Object—Litter,1995
California, Tahquitz
helitac for any rescue. Let’s be careful
out there. My final notes are that a
litter is neither a stretcher nor a
gurney, and that the injured should
never be referred to as “bodies” or
“victims,” which did happen even
though both of the injured were
1 465 conscious. (Source: Gerry Cox)
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
1995 California, Yosemite
California, Valley,
Yosemite Sunnyside Bench
Valley,
Sunnyside Bench
On August 7, 1994, James Howell
(21) free-soloed Lazy Bum, a 5.10d
route on Sunnyside Bench. To get
back to the ground he traversed
several yards left and down to a large
flake that required underclinging. As
0 466
he was downclimbing around the
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
1995 No Hard Hat, Exceeding
Arizona, Bell Rock,Abilities,
North FaceArizona, Bell Rock, North
According to witnesses, the young
man (23) was in a hurry to get to the
top of this rock and was seen almost
“running” up the side toward the Class
Five section 100 feet below the top.
He fell as he neared the top, the most
difficult section, and fell over 75 feet
0 467
down a sheer cliff. He died of massive
Fall on Rock, Faulty Use of Crampons—Failed
1995 toAlberta,
Put Them on, Alberta,
Rocky RockyMount
Mountains, Mountains, Mount Collier
Collier
Two climbers, R.H. and H.B. (50),
were descending Mt. Collier (3216
meters) on July 25, 1994, roped
together. H.B. belayed R.H. across a
40-degree snow and ice slope, then
luckily asked for a belay while he
0 468
crossed it himself. As he was about to
Fall on Rock, Handhold Failure, Protection
1995PulledAlberta,
Out, Alberta
Rocky Rocky Mountains,
Mountains, Grand Sentinel Pinnacle
Grand
Sentinel Pinnacle
A party of three were climbing a four-
pitch 5.9 route on this quartzite
pinnacle next to Pinnacle Mountain
and Sentinel Pass, on July 21, 1994.
M.G. was leading the second pitch
and about 20 meters out when a
0 469
handhold broke. Her last protection, a
 Fall on Rock, Heavy Pack, Alberta, Rocky
1995
Mountains, Mount
Alberta, Temple
Rocky Mountains, Mount
Temple
While five climbers were being
evacuated higher on the mountain on
August 1, 1994, a party of four began
climbing the ‘Big Step’ on the East
Ridge, as two ropes of two. The first
rope team had completed the second
0 470
pitch, and the second pair were
Fall on Rock, Heavy Pack, Alberta, Rocky
1995
Mountains, Mount
Alberta, Yamnuska
Rocky Mountains, Mount
Yamnuska
On August 28,1994, Stan and Pam
were attempting the seven-pitch, 5.8
A1 route “Corkscrew” on Mt.
Yamnuska, and had completed the
first two pitches. Pam was seconding
the third pitch when she took a short
0 471
swinging fall at a difficult bulge about
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Distraction,
1995 Hot Weather, Alberta,Mountains,
Alberta, Rocky Rocky Mountains,
CMC CMC Valley
Valley
R.B. and B.T. were climbing in CMC
valley on July 23,1994. At 1100 the
weather was hot and R.B. was having
trouble leading the first pitch of a two-
pitch route. After a half hour on the
lead, with two pieces of protection in
0 472
place, he came down, saying he could
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Alaska,
1995 Talkeetna
Alaska, Mountains,
Talkeetna Archangel Valley
Mountains,
Archangel Valley
On July 1, 1994, Beav Deering and I
finally made it up to Archangel Valley
on a sunny day for some long awaited
climbing. We chose an easier route,
Toto (5.7)—on the Diamond Wall, to
start off with after being turned away
0 473
from the Monolith by an angry miner.
Fall on Rock, Ledge Collapse, Inadequate
1995
Protection, British
British Columbia,
Columbia, Monashee Mountains, Gold Rang
Monashee
Mountains, Gold Range, Gates Peak
Friday, August 26, 1994, was the last
day of a nine-day climbing holiday in
the remote Gates Peak area, south of
Revelstoke, B.C., for D.M. (42) and
B.D. (46). The two are moderately
experienced climbers with a long
0 474
history of hiking and backpacking.
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, California, 1995
Norman Clyde Peak Norman Clyde Peak
California,
On August 19, 1994, a group of six
experienced mountaineers, most of
whom had done over one hundred
peaks in the High Sierra, were
climbing the North-Northeast Ridge of
Norman Clyde Peak. Each climber
was well within his/her technical ability
0 475
and had many years of experience.
 Fall on Rock, Off Route, Inadequate Protection,
1995 California,
California,Mount
MountWhitney,
Whitney,East Face
East Face
On September 10, 1994, six climbers
were on the East Face Route of
Mount Whitney. Brad Berdoy (38) was
leading the Fresh Air Traverse when
he realized he was off route.
He was down climbing to the belay
when he fell about 20 feet, landing on
0 476
a ledge and blowing out his knee. He
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection,
1995Alberta,
wasRocky
Alberta, Mountains,
Rocky
unable Mount
Mountains,
to descend, Yamnuska
so Mount
his
Yamnuska
While leading the third pitch of Red
Shirt on July 30,1994, Andrew F. (50)
fell about nine meters, striking the
belay ledge with his head. His helmet
fell off, and he fell another three
meters before being stopped by his
0 477
rope. He was secured on the belay
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection,
1995Exceeding
Alberta,Abilities,
RockyAlberta, Rocky
Mountains, Mountains, Canmore Are
Canmore
Area, Stoneworks Crag
At about 1730 on July 10, 1994, Ian
B. was climbing with two friends at the
Stoneworks when he took a two-
meter leader fall near the top of a
pitch. His last protection placement
redirected his downward momentum
0 478
toward the face, and he suffered a
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection,
1995No Hard Hat, Exceeding
Ontario, Abilities, ontario,
Kelso Conservation Area Kelso Conservatio
On September 18, 1994, two young
climbers, K.L. and J.L., met for the
first time and went climbing. They
climbed the route “Econoline,” first
with a top rope, and then K.L. (a
visitor from Sweden) attempted to
lead it. He expressed some concern
0 479
because he had left his climbing
Fall on Snow, Avalanche, Poor Position—Ski
1995 Mountaineering,
British Columbia,British Columbia,
Coast Coast Mountains, Kitim
Mountains,
Kitimat Range near Europa Lake
On May 21, 1994, five ski
mountaineers were about two weeks
into the traverse from Mussel Inlet to
Gardner Canal. Four of them left their
big packs, including an emergency
locator transmitter, on a glacier with
0 480
the fifth party member, and set off on
Fall on Snow, Exposure, Hypothermia, 1995
HACE, Frostbite,
Alaska,Inexperience,
Mount McKinley Alaska, Mount McKinley
On April 27,1994, Pauline Brandon
(33) and Richard Tyler (28) began
their climb of the West Buttress of
Mount McKinley. On May 5, solo
climber Trigger Twig encountered
Brandon and Tyler as they arrived at
the 10,300 foot camp. Shortly upon
0 481
arriving, Tyler approached Twigg and
 Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest; Then—Fatigue,
1995 Fall on
Alberta, Snow,Mountains,
Rocky Lost Ice Axe, Alberta, Rocky Mountai
Mount
Victoria
A British couple, Luc (29) and Eva
(31) Parker came to Canada in the
summer of 1994 for a two-week
climbing holiday. On the morning of
Thursday, September 1, they left the
Abbot Pass hut (2927 meters) to
0 482
climb Mt. Victoria (3465 meters) by
Fall on Snow, Unroped, Unable to Self-Arrest,
1995 Canada,
BritishBritish Columbia,
Columbia, NorthNorth Cascades Range, Candian
Cascades
Range, Canadian Border Peak
On June 11, 1994, a party of five
climbers went out on a scheduled
ACC attempt on Canadian Border
Peak. After four hours of approach
and snow slopes, they reached a
location known as “The Shoulder,”
0 483
where they stopped for a half hour of
Fall on Snow, Unstable Snow Conditions, 1995
Inadequate Protection,
Alaska, Mount Fatigue,
Hunter Varying Levels of Experience, A
On June 8, 1994, Patti Saurman (31),
Chris Walburgh (28), David Saurman
(30), and Don Sharaf (28) flew to the
Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier
and skied to their camp at 6,700 feet
on the branch of the Kahiltna Glacier
southwest of the Southwest Ridge of
0 484
Mount Hunter.
Falling Object, California, Yosemite Valley,
1995 El Capitan
California, Yosemite Valley, El
Capitan
On June 24, 1994, our party began an
ascent of the Triple Direct route on El
Capitan. That evening, as we
bivouacked on Mammoth Terraces,
we observed two portaledges set up
on the Shield, about 1200 feet above
0 485
us.
Falling Rock, Fall on Rock, Failure to Test
1995Hold, British Columbia,
Columbia, Northern
NorthernSelkirk
SelkirkMountains, Sorcerer
Mountains, Sorcerer Peak
On July 27, 1994, D. Jones (45) and
P. Kendrick (40) were climbing on the
north flanks of Sorcerer Peak (3166
meters) near the northern boundary of
Glacier National Park, looking for new
routes. They decided to climb a steep
0 486
rock and snow couloir to the crest of a
Frostbite, Exposure, Weather, Inadequate1995
ClothingAlaska,
and Equipment, Alaska, Mount McKinley
Mount McKinley
Victor Pomerantsev (52) departed
June 12,1994, for a solo climb of the
West Buttress of Mount McKinley. He
climbed quickly, arriving at the 16,200
foot level on June 15.
Pomerantsev ascended carrying
equipment not adequate for the climb
0 487
including a large cotton sleeping bag,
a small two-pole pup tent and light
 at the edge of a 25-meter vertical cliff.
He sustained broken ribs, a punctured
lung, and severe bruises to the right
leg and hip, as well as minor
lacerations to the head and scalp.
Grand Mal Seizures, Alaska, Mount McKinley
1995 Alaska,
S.C. Mount McKinley
descended to him and they spent
On May
the night16, near 1994, John Merrigan
the accident site. On (43)
wasmorning
the climbingofMount June McKinley
22, S.C. started when
he began
down to get experiencing
help aroundwhat 0930. appeared
He
to betoGrand
had descend Malaboutseizures 100atmeters7,800 of
feet
broken on technical
the Kahiltna Glacier.
terrain before He was
evacuated
reaching steep scree that leadsbytothe
at 0745 on May 17 the
Alaska
forestedAir National
lower slopes Guard
of Mt.helicopter
Narao.
0 488
and
Yohotransported
National Park to Providence
Warden Office
Hypothermia, Dehydration, Weather, Alaska,
1995 Mount McKinley
Alaska, Mount McKinley
received a call at 0830 on June 22,
On May 18,1994, Paul Laeremans
from K.D.'s wife, reporting that K.D.
(39) and Ingrid Baeyens (38) of the
was overdue on the climb. Park
German AMICAL expedition, along
wardens checked the trailhead and
with other members of their
scanned the mountain by telescope.
expedition, began descending the
They found fresh tracks up the ascent
West Buttress route from 14,300 feet.
route and felt the climbers had
Weather conditions were poor, with
0 489 reached the top. At 1115, wardens
high winds and sub-zero
Hypothermia, Exposure, Weather, Inadequate who
1995 Clothing,
Alaska, were
Alaska, flown
Mount in toMcKinley
Mount
McKinley view the route at
close range
On May 22, 1994, Koreanfound the descent tracks
climbers
and
Sangfollowed
Myeungthem Lee to theand
(25) victim,
Kee who
Won
waved
Kim (27) butdeparted
did not move. from the Rescuers
14,200
reached
foot Westhim by helicopter
Buttress camp on sling,
Mountand
Alberta,
were toldRocky
that Mountains,
S.C. had gone Mount
out for
McKinley. They climbed the headwall
Temple
help. K.D.
west of thewas fixed given
linesfirst aid, feet,
to 16,200
On August 1,and
immobilized, 1994, a party oftotwo
reaching the ridge crest in high an
evacuated winds.
0 490 were
ambulanceoverdue the on the East Ridge route
Lee and Kimatfailed lower Lake
to return asO’Hara
the
Inadequate Protection—Failed to Clip In1995 of
to Anchor, Mt.
Alaska,
Alaska,
staging Temple Mount
Mount
area (3544 meters).
Wake,Denali
forWake,
transport Denali A
National Park
National
to hospital.
search
Park the
During washelicopters
initiated and last they were
flight out
located
On April
from thebelow
20,
accident the site,
1994, Black
Michele Towers,
S.C. was off
Morseth,
route,
Todd McCann
spotted exhausted,
on a large (26), andand
snow still a longand
Walker
patch, way
Parke
from
also the
(36) flew summit.
into theinRuth
evacuated, They requested
goodGorge.condition.Their
assistance
climbing objective
Analysis and were washeli-slung
Mount Wake's out by
the
North rescue
The two East team.
Ridge.were
climbers Meanwhile,
This well
routeoffhas another
route
party
technicalof three
mixed lower
on their descent, and in veryrock, down
snow, onice,
the and a
steep
0 491 same routeterrain.
asked for help by yelling
long corniced
avalanche ridgeIn with
fact, steep
they steps
did not
Loss of Control of Glissade, Off Route, 1995
Poor Position,
to British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount Narao
know the normal descent route.into
the rescue party. They were That,
their
combinedthird day withon thethe veryroute,
warm having
day,
routefinding difficulties,
which made glissading difficult and wereand
exhausted.
increased the They were also
avalanche evacuated
hazard,
by helicoptertosling.
contributed the accident. The victim
Analysis
had had two major climbing accidents
The
before East thisRidge
one. is a popular
(Source: Terryobjective
Willis,
0 492 and is well documented
Yoho National Park Warden Service) in the
literature. Unfortunately, due to the
Off Route, Stranded, Fatigue, Inexperience,
1995Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Temple
moderate grade (IV 5.7), it is often
underestimated. Much of its challenge
lies in routefinding and dealing with a
great variety of rock quality.
Conditions at the time of these
rescues were as good as they ever
get. (Source: Marc Ledwidge, Banff
0 493 National Park Warden Service)
 Protection Pulled Out, Fall on Rock, "Ego
1995
in an Uproar," California,
California, YosemiteYosemite National
National Park, Park, Tuolumne M
Tuolumne Meadows—Daff Dome
On August 12, 1994, at 1010, the
NPS received a report of a climber
injured in an 60-80 foot fall to the
ground at Daff Dome in Tuolumne
Meadows. Ranger Kris Bardsley, the
first ranger at the scene, arrived at
0 494
1040. The victim, Dan Acland (25)
Rappel Error—Haste, Alberta, Rocky Mountains,
1995 Cowbell Rocky
Alberta, Crag Mountains, Cowbell
Crag
One Sunday morning in August, 1994,
Phil M. went climbing at Cowbell Crag
with his less-experienced friends Irf
and Shakil. After climbing for two
hours, they were descending a 50-
meter face the last time in order for
0 495
Phil to get to work at 1400. Phil
Rappel Failure, Inadequate Protection, Alberta,
1995 Rocky Mountains,
Alberta, Lake Louise,Lake
Rocky Mountains, Back of the Lake Crag
Louise, Back of the Lake Crag
On July 26, 1994, D.O. (29), a sport
climber, took a serious fall at the Back
of the Lake, a rock climbing area at
Lake Louise. The accident occurred
on a one-pitch climb called Swamp
Thing (5.9) after D.O. inadvertently
0 496
climbed past the top station of the
Rappel Failure—Incorrect Use of Equipment,
1995 Alberta, Rocky
Alberta, Mountains,
Rocky HeartHeart
Mountains, Creek
Creek
On June 26, 1994, Alan C. was rock
climbing at Heart Creek slabs with
friends. After completing a pitch, he
was being lowered by his belayer from
below, with the rope running through
a sling. When he was part of the way
0 497
down, the rope “burned” through the
Rappel Failure—Mid-Mark on Rope Came 1995Off, Distraction,
On SeptemberCalifornia, Yosemite
13,1994, John Valley, Reed's Pinnacle
Pinchott (31) and Joel O’Connell
spent the day climbing short routes at
Reeds Pinnacle. Pinchott finished by
top-roping the center route on the
Remnant—a little less than half a
rope-length. When he reached the
top, he derigged the top-rope and set
0 498
up a one-rope rappel. He placed the
Rock Fall, Late Start, Alberta, Rocky Mountains,
1995 Mount Lefroy
Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount
Lefroy
A party of two left Abbot Pass hut at
0900, August 14, 1994, to climb the
snow and ice gullies of the standard
West Face route on Mt. Lefroy (3423
meters). Partway up the route, a large
rockfall occurred. Both climbers were
0 499
struck and sustained minor injuries.
 Slip on Snow, Inattention, Inadequate Equipment,
1995 Alberta, Rocky
Alberta, Rocky Mountains,
Mountains,Mount
MountLawson
Lawson
Elizabeth N. (45) and John D. climbed
Mt. Lawson (2795 meters), a
moderate scramble, on July 9, 1994,
and were descending a steep, narrow
gully in good snow at about 1430.
Elizabeth slipped out of control and
0 500
slid some 90 meters, partly head first,
Slip on Stick, Weather, Darkness, Fatigue,
1995Alberta, Rocky Rocky
Alberta, Mountains, Mount Ishbel
Mountains, Mount
Ishbel
On June 18, 1994, O.M.(45) and C.C.
(39) started off in sunshine to climb
Mount Ishbel (2908 meters), near
Banff, by the South Ridge. After a few
hours of routine scrambling and a few
interesting spots along the ridge,
0 501
clouds approached. As they reached
Stranded, Hypothermia, Weather, Alberta,
1995Rocky Alberta,
Mountains, Mount
Rocky YamnuskaMount
Mountains,
Yamnuska
Rob, Loree, and Bob started up the
scree slopes of Yamnuska under a
clear blue sky on June 4, 1994, to
climb the 5.8 route “Belfry” on Mount
Yamnuska. By the time they reached
the base of the climb, the weather
1 502
was changing. Still, they felt they
Stranded, Inadequate Belay, Hair Caught1995
in Rappel Device,Camelback
Arizona, Inexperience,Mountain
Arizona, Camelback Mountain
Tracy Hemphill (19), who said she
had gone rock climbing only once
before, was rappelling down a rock
face on Camelback Mountain about
0930 on January 16, 1994, when her
hair got caught in her rappel device.
Jared Thompson (19) and David
0 503
Hansen (19), both of Phoenix and
Stranded, Inadequate Clothing and Equipment,
1995 Exceeding Abilities,
California,
experienced rockCalifornia,
Yosemite Valley Yosemite
climbers, National Valley National
already
Park, Fairview Dome
were on the ground.
On August 20, 1994, at 2100, climber
Ray Pichette reported to Tuolumne
Meadows rangers that he had passed
a slow party of two on the Regular
Route on Fairview Dome that day,
and when he had called up to them
1 504
later from the base they had indicated
Stranded, Lost Equipment, Unfamiliar with
1995Terrain, British
British Columbia,
Columbia, RockyMountains,
Rocky Mountains, Mount Wiwaxy
Mount Wiwaxy
“Grassi’s Ridge” is a 5.7 multi-pitch
rock climb on the Wiwaxy Peaks
(2704 meters) near Lake O’Hara in
Yoho National Park. On July 14,
1994, S.L. and G.W., experienced
climbers from Britain, set off at about
0 505
1100 to attempt this route, and at
 Stranded—Out of Food, Weather, California,
1995 Yosemite Valley,
California, Magic Mushroom
Yosemite Valley, Magic
Mushroom
On April 24, 1994, Ken Bokelund's
(28) wife reported to the NPS that he
and Kevin Andrews (30) were one day
overdue from climbing the Magic
Mushroom route (VI 5.10 A4) on El
Capitan and were probably out of
0 506
food. Although the weather was
Stranded—Poor Position, Imbedded Carabiner,
1995 California,
California,Yosemite Valley,
Yosemite Sunnyside Bench
Valley,
Sunnyside Bench
On June 18, 1994, Josh Klikna (14)
and his two brothers were learning to
lead at Sunnyside Bench. Josh fell
several times while attempting Raisin,
a poorly protected 5.9 route. His last
fall, a five-footer about 60 feet off the
0 507
ground, somehow left him hanging
Stranded—Unable to Locate Rappel Anchor, 1995 California, Yosemite
California, Valley,
Yosemite El Capitan
Valley, El
Capitan
On August 25, 1994, at 1300,
Rangers Keith Lober and Rick Foulks
were contacted at El Capitan by a
visitor who reported climbers calling
for help from the cliff. I was assigned
by shift supervisor Jim Tucker to
1 508
assist Lober with the telescope and
Fall from Rappel, Unclipped From Safety 1995
Line, No Hard Hat,
Oregon, CampOregon, Camp Baldwin
Baldwin
On July 6, 1994, Adam Clark (17) was
teaching a group of Boy Scouts—
about 17 of them—how to rappel.
According to the report, he unclipped
from his safety line to adjust the slack
in the line. He then lost his balance
and fell 70 feet to his death. (Source:
0 509
Jeff Sheetz, Portland Mountain
Fall on Ice, Unable to Self-Arrest, Placed
1995
No Protection,
Oregon, Exceeding Abilities,
Mount Hood, Fatigue, Oregon, Mount Hoo
Leutholds
Couloir
On June 3, 1994, a party of five was
climbing Leutholds Couloir on the
west side of Mount Hood. The group
reached the “hourglass” (9,200 feet)
around 0815 and rested for about 20
minutes. Continuing, the lead team of
0 510
three led by Rocky Henderson had
Fall on Rock, Bouldering Alone, No Spotter,
1995 Colorado, Rocky
Colorado, Mountain
Rocky National
Mountain Park, Hallett Creek
National
Park, Hallett Creek
On July 22, 1994, Debbie Gruneberg
(19) was bouldering near the July
campsite by Hallett Creek on the
North Inlet Trail. She slipped and fell
20 feet, fractured her nose, a sinus,
C-l and C-2 vertebrae, and also
0 511
sustained internal injuries. She was
 Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
1995 No Hard
NewHat, New Hampshire,
Hampshire, Rattlesnake Mountain
Rattlesnake
Mountain
On March 16, 1994, Stephen Williams
(27) fell 90 feet from a climb on
Rattlesnake Mountain, near Rumney,
fracturing his pelvis and suffering
other injuries that were not life-
threatening.
0 512
Analysis
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
1995 North Carolina,
North Crowders
Carolina, Mountain
Crowders Mountain
On March 13, 1994, Shawn
MacDonald (17) fell 80 feet to his
death while climbing solo. (Source:
Deidri Sarver, Ranger)
Analysis
According to a newspaper report in
the Charlotte Observer on March 15,
0 513
Shawn MacDonald climbed frequently
Fall on Rock, Failure of Rappel—Knot 1995
Came Undone,
West No Hard The
Virginia,
at Crowders. Hat, Westbefore
Seneca
day Virginia,
Rocks theSeneca Rocks
On October 12, 1994, Imtiaz Lalvi (32)
and David Lue-Chee-Lip (26) had just
finished climbing Candy Corner to
Skyline Traverse. When they arrived
at Lower Broadway Ledge, David said
they thought they had about one hour
of daylight left, so they would explore
0 514
the east face for future climbs. They
Fall on Rock, Failure to Rappel—Rope 1995
IncorrectlyWest
Placed Through
Virginia, NewFigure Eight,
River GorgeWest Virginia, New Rive
NRA,
Fern Point
On May 20, 1994, a climber fell 90
feet because he had incorrectly
threaded his rappel rope through a
Figure Eight descending device.
The report of the incident was
received at 1445, and evacuation
0 516
completed by 1835. Victim was
Fall on Rock, Falling Object (the Climber),
1995Climbing Unroped,
Colorado,
transported toPlaced
Rocky No Protection,
Mountain
hospital treatedPoor
and National for Position, Excee
Park, Hallett Peak
On June 25, 1994, at 1015, John
Baise (21) was attempting to lead,
unroped, a chimney section of West
Gully (also known as Two Gullys
Route) 15.3, on Hallett Peak. Baise
decided that the line he was on was
0 517
not possible, and began down
Fall on Rock, Falling Rocks, Climbing Alone,
1995 Oregon, Mount
Oregon, Jefferson
Mount Jefferson
On July 28, 1994, Larry Hermens (16)
left Jefferson Park for a solo climb of
a north side route of Mount Jefferson.
On the 29th, Mr. Hermens failed to
return, and a search was begun.
During the evening a helicopter
search revealed an unresponsive
0 518
climber lying head down in a gully
 any blankets.) While hiking out, the
other rescuers talked about other
accidents in front of Lyn, which I
found to be in poor taste. The
Explorer Scouts met us at the
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Inadequate
1995Protection,
Oregon,
Santiam Exceeding
Blue Abilities,
PassRiver,
trail Miscommunications,
Flagstaff
junction with water, Oregon,
Climbing Area
flashlights, and blankets. Lyn then
On September
went in the litter17, 1994,
again. AtIthe
(Katie
Mynes-Petty,
trailhead 35) was third
the ambulance to Lyn
took climb to
the route “Deep Pockets.” A
Bend hospital around 1230. Katietop rope
was
and Iset up andthe
followed I was to drag up
ambulance to Bend
another
and spent the night there.up another
rope to help set
climb. We didn’t
The following dayfully communicate
Mardi Keltner met
0 519
intentions, and decisions
us at the trailhead and assisted were made
in
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Oregon,
1995
Cascades of Oregon, Three Fingered Jack
packing out our base camp. She also
provided me with a safe journey home
since I was exhausted and was not fit
to drive. It was interesting to
experience a rescue from the other
side. (Source: Maryanne Reiter—who
had trained with Corvallis Mountain
0 520 Rescue)
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Equipment—Rope
1995 Diameter
NorthToo Small for
Carolina, Belay Device,
Crowders North Carolina, Crowd
Mountain,
David’s Castle
On September 25, 1994, Dante Taylor
(26) was solo climbing about 1800 on
the cliffs near David’s Castle. He
could not find a good hand hold, so he
began down climbing. He was about
35 feet off the ground when be began
0 521
to fall. He attempted to cinch off his
Fall on Rock, Off Route, No Hard Hat, Exceeding
1995 Abilities, Colorado,
Colorado, Rocky Mountain
Rocky Mountain NationalNational Park, Wh
Park, White Whale II
On May 23, 1994, Jack L. McConnell
(59) and his son Thomas H.
McConnell (24) were climbing the
White Whale Route II, 5.7, on the Left
Book formation at Lumpy Ridge. On
the second pitch, they traversed off
0 523
route and into the flake column of
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection,
1995Inadequate
Utah, Belay, Utah, Big Cottonwood
Rig Cottonwood Canyon, Canyon, Geronimo
Geronimo
On January 22, 1994, a climber (19)
was on Geronimo (5.8) when he lost
his hold and fell 25 feet. He had not
placed adequate protection, and his
belayer was unable to stop the fall.
(Source: H. T. Moore, Special
1 524
Operations Division, Salt Lake County
Fall on Rock, Placed No Protection, Hurrying,
1995 Weather,
Colorado,Colorado,
RockyRocky Mountain
Mountain National Park, Booke
National
Park, Bookend
On August 12, 1994, about noon, Bob
Koppe (51) slipped on wet rock while
leading the third pitch (5.8) of Melvin's
Wheel III 5.8+ on the Bookend during
a rainstorm. Koppe was hurrying due
to the rain, and his foot slipped in the
0 525
flaring, poorly-protected, but easy
 New Hampshire, Rattlesnake
Mountain
Fall on Rock, Placed No Protection, West
1995
Virginia, NewVirginia,
West River Gorge
NewNRA, RiverKaymoor
Gorge NRA, Cliff
On September 17, 1994, Leon Kaatz
Kaymoor Cliff
fell down a wet rock slab while trying
On June 19, 1994, a climber was
to set up a handline for friends with
“lead” climbing a 5.13s called
whom he was hiking. Kaatz is a
“Bloodraid” at “The Hole” area of
climber, and this hiking situation
Kaymoor Cliffs. He had climbed over
called for climbing skill because of the
20 feet and was just below a bolt
wetness of the rock slab. Fortunately
when a handhold gave way. His
0 526 for him, he landed next to a rock
climbing partner was belaying when
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inadequate
1995 climbing
Colorado,class
Belay—Improper from
Use of
Eldorado the University
Belay
Canyon State ofColorado, Eldorad
Device,
New
Park,Hampshire.
Whittle WallMost of them were
EMT
On May or Wilderness
27, 1994, aEMT climbertrained. The
(37) was
class took over the responsibility
leading on “The Whittle Wall” on Red for
the evacuation
Garden Wall nearand“Thecarry-out.
Bulge.” He
The students were pleased—and
failed to make it through the crux, thus
somewhat surprised—to out
falling and penduluming findandout that
their training actually worked
pulling two pieces of protection when put
0 527 into practice. Their teacher, Dr.
(Friends). The belayer was on a
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No1995
Hard Hat,Michael
Colorado,
Colorado, Eldorado
said, Canyon
Eldorado
Gass, State StateThe
“TheirPark, Park, The Bastille
Bastille
perspective on life is service to others.
On June
Action 18 and 29,
personifies the1994,
perspective the
respectively, two climbers
students have. I admire and (33respect
and 40)
took falls, had
them for that.” protection pull out, and
turn upside down. In the first
Kaatz, who came out of the accident instance,
the
withvictim lost about
a fractured elbow a quart
and manyof blood.
cuts
In the
and second case,
scratches, is an the victim hit his
experienced
0 529
belayer as
climber. In he cameoftothanks
a letter a stop. toHeGass’
Fall on Rock, Weather, New Hampshire,1995Rattlesnake Mountain
class, Kaatz said: “I have done much
climbing in my days and I have
participated before in litter rescues.
This is the first time, however, I have
ever participated in a litter rescue
from the reclining position.” (Source:
From a report and letter submitted by
0 530 Michael Gass)
Fall on Rock—Handhold Came Off, New 1995
Hampshire,
NewCannon Mountain,
Hampshire, Cannon Whitney/Gilman
Mountain, Route
Whitney/Gilman Route
On October 30, 1994, two students
and a White Mountain School climbing
instructor (37) were on the third “pipe
pitch” on the Whitney/Gilman Ridge
(5.7) on Cannon Mountain. The leader
had been simal-belaying the two
0 531
students on double 11 mm ropes and
Fall on Rock—Inadequate Protection on1995Rappel, No Hard
North Hat, North
Carolina, Carolina,Mountain
Crowders Crowders Mountain
On January 16, 1994, Timothy
Samartino (21) fell about 90 feet from
near the top of a rappel. He suffered
scalp lacerations and a concussion.
( Source: Deidri Sarver, Ranger)
Analysis
The details are difficult to discern, but
0 532
basically, Samartino was on rappel
and his “braking action” was not
effective, and he was not being
 behind Buceambuso. A short distance
below the summit notch Morrill slipped
while traversing this snow-filled couloir
which extends down the east face.
Attempts to self-arrest with his ice axe
Fall on Snow, Falling into Crevasse—Snow
1995Slide,were
Unable
Oregon, to Self-arrest,
Mount
unsuccessful Hood, Exceeding
Cooper
resulting aAbilities
in Spurfatal
On of
fall July 23, 1994, about
approximately 2,000 1330,
feet.a party
of four was descending the Cooper
Analysis
Spur route
Morrill was when
describedat least one
by his
individual lostashis
companions anfooting high on the
experienced
route (c. 10,000
mountaineer whofeet).
was The ropeda party
climbing
was unable to team arrest before
route well within his range of skill and
sliding andAtumbling
capability. week prior about 1,000
to the climbfeeta
0 533
onto the upper Eliot glacier.
series of storms had dropped up to Gerald
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Equipment, Wyoming,
1995 Grand
Wyoming,TetonGrand
NationalTeton Park,National
Paintbrush Park,Divide
ten inches of fresh snow on the
Paintbrush Divide
mountain, a deposit now resting on an
On the afternoon of June 7, 1994,
older snow surface influenced by
David Turk and Dan Turk (25) were
warming spring conditions.
traversing a steep snow couloir near
During a follow-up interview with
Paintbrush Divide when Dan Turk
Olsen, he stated that the group was
slipped and fell approximately 300
anxious to get off the mountain and
feet down steep snow and rock.
0 534 was descending accordingly. He
Turk’s fall was stopped when he
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Equipment—No 1995 offered
Ice Axe, speculation
Poor Position—Attempted
Oregon, Mount Jefferson, that this may have
Short-Cut
Southwest
been
Ridge a contributing factor to the
accident.
On AugustHe 6,also
1994, questioned, in
Gabriella Klassen
hindsight,
(43), alongwhy withthey
three had not shared
others in her a
more
party, serious discussionthe
was descending after
Southwest
Buceambuso’s
ridge after having fall,climbed
such asto Red
considering
Saddle at 10,000a traverse
feet. At like1530
the onethe
Olsen opted for, and/or stopping
party stopped at the 8,700 foot level to
0 535 put on crampons. After Morrill’s fall,
when Ms. Klassen decided to take a
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Inadequate
1995 Equipment—No
Wyoming,
Olsen and Grand IceTeton
BuceambusoAxe, Wyoming,
National
continued Grand Teton Nation
Park,
Garnet
their Canyon
descent with crampons.
On June
The use of11,crampons,
1994, Artur or Kruk (31)
sometimes
and Irichopping
even Krol (33)awere single descending
step, may
steep snow
make near Spalding
the difference. As theFallslate when
Leigh
Krol slipped and
Ortenberger noted fellinapproximately
his 1965 edition
100
of A feet, impacting
Climber’s Guiderocks to the below.
TetonKrol
sustained
Range, “Many of the climbingthe fall
multiple injuries in
0 536
including
accidentsainfractured
the Parkankle have and occurred
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Poor
1995
Route Selection, Haste, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park,
on the snowfields of this route.” With
the passing of 30 years, this
continues to hold true. It should also
be noted that unarrested falls on snow
and ice continue to be the leading
cause of serious injury and death in
the Teton Range.
0 537
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Wyoming,
1995 Grand Teton Grand
Wyoming, National Park,National
Teton Grand Teton
Park,
Grand Teton
Late on the afternoon of June 11,
1994, Mike Tucker (43) and Bill
McDonald (39) were descending the
Owen Spalding route on the Grand
Teton following a successful ascent of
the Upper Exum Ridge. A short
0 538
distance below the Upper Saddle,
 Fall/Slip on Ice, Unable to Self-Arrest, No
1995
Hard Hat, Oregon,
Oregon, Mount
Mount Hood,
Hood, Southside Route
Southside
Route
On January 17, 1994, Kurt Pothast
(20), Mike Bell (19), David Pardue
(30), Tim Park (17), and Ron Hatfield
(17) were climbing Southside Route
on Mount Hood. It was a very icy day.
Warm days and cold nights caused
0 539
water ice to form. Half of the group
Falling Ice, Utah, Provo, Stairway to Heaven
1995 Utah, Provo, Stairway to Heaven
On January 4, 1994, M.M. (33) and
three companions had hiked to the
base of the frozen waterfall called
Stairway to Heaven. Small pieces of
ice had come down from a large icicle
which did not connect at its base that
was above and to the right of the
0 540
climb. The victim led the pitch, set up
Falling Rock, Missouri, Lake of the Ozarks,
1995 Truman Reservoir
Missouri, Lake of the Ozarks, Truman
Reservoir
On October 6, 1994, Phil Rotterman,
Cary Winchester and I arrived at the
bluffs that abut the Truman Reservoir.
We planned to do some sport
climbing on some 80 foot high
limestone routes.
0 541
After I led “The Big Weenie,” we
Falling Rock, No Hard Hat, Colorado, Eldorado
1995 Canyon
movedState
Colorado, toPark,
on EldoradoRedCanyon
Garden which
“Gomerwood,” Wall Phil
State
Park, Red Garden Wall
led. While setting up a top-rope
On June
above, he12, 1994, a aclimber
dislodged small (22) was
top-roping on the Red Garden Wall
when he loosened a six inch rock,
which then hit him in the head. He
was lowered to the ground and taken
to his car by friends. He controlled the
0 542
bleeding himself, using a 4 x 4
Falling Rock, No Hard Hat, New Hampshire,1995 Cannon
NewCliff
Hampshire, Cannon Cliff
On October 14, 1994, while
ascending the talus slope below
Cannon Cliff, a large section of rock
(est. 100 feet across) fell off the cliff
high above us. The rock broke up as it
fell and swept down the talus slope
over our position. (The victim (52)
0 543
suffered a fractured arm and head
Hypothermia, Frostbite, Exposure, Inadequate
1995 Clothing and Equipment,
New Hampshire, Failure
Mount to Turnand
Jefferson Back, Party Separ
Mount Washington
On January 14, 1994, Derek Tinkham
(20) and Jeremy Haas (20), both
students at the University of New
Hampshire, set out for a planned
traverse of the Presidential Range.
They camped, actually a bivouac, as
0 545
they had no tent, the first night, and
 determine your gear.
Miscellaneous: a) All the items lost at
Camp 6 could have been clipped in.
Sew anchor loops on every item you
want to keep, and use them. b)
Hypothermia, Frostbite, Weather, Late Start,
1995 Failed
New to Turn Back,
Hampshire,
Dehydration New
hastensMount Hampshire,
Washington,
hypothermia. Mount
If Washington, H
Huntington
you can’t drinkRavine
plain, cold water, add
On
a February
little 26,1994,
sugar/energy Monroe
powder and keep
Couper
the bottles(40)inand
yourErik Latteybag
sleeping (28)where
left
the Harvard
they’ll Cabin inwarm.
stay relatively Huntingtonc)
Ravine
Whethertotoclimb climbPinnacle
or rappel Gully.
dependsThey
did not start the climb
on the route and your condition, anduntil noon,
because
can be a they very had to return
difficult decision.to the
0 546
cabin for their rope,
Retreating on the Nose is which they
Inadequate Belay—Rope Passed Through 1995
Belay Device,
California,Overconfidence,
Yosemite Valley, California, Yosemite Valley, Pa
Pat and
straightforward, however. Being so
Jack Pinnacle
unprepared for rain, the Europeans
In the afternoon of September 29,
should have gone down when they
1994, Grant Farquhar (27) and Clare
saw the bad weather approaching. d)
Carolan (25), both from Scotland,
If things don’t go right, try to deal with
were climbing at the Pat and Jack
them, but don’t let pride take you past
Pinnacle area. Farquhar had climbed
the point of no return. (Additional
the bolted route Knucklehead and was
0 547 reading: “Staying Alive,” in Yosemite
being lowered by Carolan, who was
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Poor Climbs;
1995Position, No Hard
Oregon, Climbing,
Hat,Hood,
Mount 2/90,Southside
Exceeding p. 97;
Abilities, Oregon, Mount H
Climbing,
Route 5/95, p. 114.) (Source: John
Dill,
On JuneSAR 12, Ranger,
1994,Yosemite
Paul LutyNational (39) was
Park)
descending the south side (Hogsback)
Editor’s
route, when Note:heFirstlost itcontrol
shouldduring
be noted
that
glissadethe above incident
and slid/fell should
about 700not be
construed
vertical feet, asimpacting
an internationalseveralone. large
While climbers from
rocks and stopping on the upper different
0 548 countries were involved, it should
White River Glacier at 9,100 feet. be
A
Rappel Failure—Carabiner "Unclipped,"1995
Inadequate
OnBelay, Colorado,
July 11,1994,
apparent that even aEldorado
ifclimber
they had Canyon
was all State Park, Suprem
teaching
been froma the
person
same (37) how tothe
country, rappel.
Several successful
problem would haverappels been the weresame:
completed
urban before
crowding thethe
and carabiner/sling
behaviors
system
that failedit.and the victim fell 20
go with
feet to were
There the ground.
lengthyShe sustained
reports from thea
dislocated and compound
Sunkist party of two and the Salathe fracture of
the right ankle. (Source:
Wall party of two who also had to be Steve
0 549
Muelhauser,
rescued during Park thisRanger)
time that have not
Stranded, Failure to Turn Back, Hypothermia,
1995 Dehydration, Inadequate, Clothing and Equipment, Weather
been included. The latter account
describes the fight against
hypothermia, the desire to self-
rescue, and the ultimate decision to
ask for help. It concludes with a fitting
quote: “We were whipped, and we
were fortunate that rescue was an
0 550 option.”
Stranded, Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped,
1995Exceeding
West Abilities,
Virginia, NoSenecaHard Hat,Rocks, West OldVirginia, Seneca Roc
Man’s Route
On June 6, 1994, Alex Fraser (23) fell
to his death at Seneca Rocks. Here is
the account of his partner.
We hiked up to the wall, put on our
gear. I had my harness on, but Alex
did not. We both had packs on. We
0 551
started scrambling up a crack, “Old
 Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park,
Grand Teton
On the evening of June 21, 1994, the
Stranded, Greed, Exceeding Abilities, New
1995Hampshire, Mount
New Hampshire,
Teton County Meader Mount Meader
Sheriff’s
In October 1994, Center
Communications two youths (c. 18) a
forwarded
spiedcall
911 some climbing
to Ranger gear Jackson
Renny on rappelat
stations
his local on a cliff of The
residence. MountcallMeader
was in
the Carter Range. They had
placed by three climbers on the Upper
previously
Exum Ridge done a rock
using theirday at a
cellular
summer camp and were excited
phone. With inclement weather and about
climbing. They were interested
darkness approaching, the climbers in
0 552
accumulating
were requesting some gear
route and knew
information.
Stranded, Inadequate Knowledge of Route,
1995Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton
“Should we go up or should we go
down?” Unable to ascertain their
exact position on the ridge, and the
climbers didn’t know, Ranger Jackson
offered his best advice. The climbers
returned safely, grateful for the
information and grateful for their
0 553 cellular phone.
Stranded, Rope Entangled on Rappel, Pennsylvania,
1995 Delaware Water
Pennsylvania, Gap NRA,
Delaware Mount
Water GapTammay
NRA, Mount Tammany
On May 22, 1994, about 1230, Angelo
Schembari (23) and Kristen Rawl (20)
parked at the State Lot off I-80 and
hiked to the “Head Wall” of Mount
Tammany where they began rock
scrambling activities without any
1 554
equipment support at 1300. At 1600
Stranded, Unable to Retrieve Rappel Rope,
1995Pennsylvania, Delaware
Pennsylvania, Water Gap
Delaware NRA,
Water GapMount Minsi
NRA, Mount Minsi
On August 27, 1994, at 2020, park
dispatch received a phone call stating
that there was a stranded climber on
Mount Minsi. Douglas C. Meyer and
Mark C. Hoverkamp (26) were
rappelling when they got to a ledge
1 555
(approximately 120 feet above the
Stranded—Unable to Find Descent Route, 1995
California, Yosemite
California, Valley, Glacier
Yosemite Valley, Point
GlacierTerrace
Point Terrace
On October 30, 1994, John Dunn (22)
and Dan Cappellini (25), both of Ft.
Collins, CO, climbed to the Oasis on
Glacier Point via Cold Fusion, Point
Beyond, and Lucifer’s Ledge. They
reached the Oasis just at dusk, so
0 556
they bivouacked there rather than
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Wyoming,
1995 Grand Teton National
Wyoming, Grand Park,
TetonMiddle Teton
National Park,
Middle Teton
On August 13, 1994, Arnold Schmidt
and Patrick Dennis (39) were climbing
on the Glacier Route of the Middle
Teton when Dennis fell approximately
150 feet. Injuries sustained in the fall
included displaced fractures of the
0 559
tibia and fibula, and possible back
 Benham, and Janet Wilts responded
to Murdock’s location and with Exum
Mountain Guide Rod Newcomb, who
was already on scene, stabilized her
injuries and evacuated her off the
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inadequate
1995 mountain
Protection, via
Wyoming,Wyoming, helicopter
Grand Grand
Teton shorthaul.
Teton National
National Park, Park, Irene's
....
Irene’s Arete
Analysis
In July of 1994, Scott Putnam and I
Both
climbed Murdock
Irene’s(no or little
Arete (5.8)experience)
on
and Gallagher (moderate
Disappointment Peak in Grand experience)
Teton
were
Nationalfrom the same
Park, Wyoming.climbing party.
We climbed
Following
the first five anpitches
ascent without
of the Upper
incident,
Exum
followingRidge, they became
the stunning areteoff to route
the
0 560 on theofstandard descent. Gallagher
base the last pitch. Here the
Stranded, Climbing Alone and Unroped1995(Party Separated),
Wyoming, Exceeding
had established GrandaTetonAbilities,
rappel Wyoming,
National
anchor Park,Grand Teton N
by
Glencoe Spire
slinging a block which, as Murdock
On Julyto20,
began 1994,failed.
rappel, a member of the
She sustained
Paul Petzoldt
serious injury 70th
in theanniversary
subsequent fall.
climbing
The party members
two other heard cries offor
thehelp
coming from
climbing partythe southwith
stayed faceMurdock
of
Glencoe
while Spire. The
Gallagher wentstranded
for help.climber,
In his
later identified
quest for help, as Ron Dankert
Gallagher, (23),
still off
1 562
was reportedly
route, rappelledbleeding and ready
into the Great Westto
Stranded, Off Route, Rappel Anchor Failures—Inadequate
1995 Protection, Fall on Rock, Wyoming, Grand Tet
Chimney where he became stuck. He
was unable to ascend back up to his
rappel line so spent the night on the
end of his rope. Rangers who rescued
Gallagher reported that the rappel
anchor over the Great West Chimney
was marginal.
0 563 ....
Acute Abdomen, Alaska, Mount McKinley, 1996WestAlaska,
ButtressMount McKinley, West
Buttress
On June 2, at 2100, Tom Bohanon of
the “Three Guys on Denali” expedition
came to the ranger camp at 14,200
feet complaining of hematemesis
(vomiting blood). Bohanon was
examined and diagnosed as having
0 564
an acute upper gastrointestinal bleed.
Atrial Fibrillation, Alaska, Mount McKinley,
1996 West Buttress
Alaska, Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
On May 26, at 2100, old Swiss
climber Dr. Paul Robadey (55) was
flown from the 14,200 foot Ranger
camp by the NPS helicopter to the
7,200 foot base camp. Robadey was
diagnosed with atrial fibrillation by
0 565
NPS VIP doctors and a cardiologist
Avalanche, Alaska, Glacier Bay National1996
Park, Mount
Alaska, Orville
Glacier Bay National Park,
Mount Orville
Three climbers found dead April 25,
on Mount Orville (10,495 feet) have
been identified as Phil Kaufman (c.
30) and Patrick Simmons (c. 30), both
of Seattle, and Steve Carroll (32) of
South Hampton, New Hampshire.
0 566
Another group of climbers found the
 Avalanche, Alaska, Mount McKinley, South
1996 Buttress
Alaska, Mount McKinley, South
Buttress
The “South Buttress 95” expedition
members included leader Tom
Fitzsimmons (45), Jim Fitzsimmons
(38), Richard Rodgers (40), and David
Hoffman (49). Their intended route
was the 1954 ascent of the South
0 567
Buttress from the Ruth Glacier.
Avalanche, Exceeding Abilities, Weather,
1996
Alberta,Alberta,
Rocky Mountains, Cascade Cascade
Rocky Mountains, Mountain, "Urs Hole" Falls
Mountain, “Urs Hole” Falls
Sometime on February 24, two ice
climbers (both 20) were hit by an
avalanche while climbing the waterfall
route “Urs Hole”, near Banff. Both
died. One body was located the next
day; the other was not recovered until
0 568
the following summer.
Avalanche, Lost Equipment, Stranded, Yukon,
1996 St.Yukon,
Elias Mountains, Mount LoganMount
St. Elias Mountains,
Logan
On July 28, a party of four climbers
were involved in an avalanche at
about the 4600- meter level on the
East Ridge of Mt. Logan, a short
distance above their camp. Although
no one was seriously injured, two of
0 569
them were shaken up, and they lost
Darkness—Late Start, Dehydration, Hypothermia
1996 (Carried NoYosemite
California, Water), Inadequate Clothing, Creating a Ha
Valley, Manure
Pile Buttress, Nutcracker
On March 30, at 2310, Reza Tabrizi
(22) called NPS dispatch from the
Camp 4 pay phone to report that his
two climbing partners, Mark Bradford
(23) and Sarah Rich (20), were
stranded by darkness at the top of
1 570
Manure Pile Buttress.
Dehydration, Heat Exhaustion, Alaska, 1996
Mount McKinley,
Alaska, West
Mount Buttress
McKinley, West
Buttress
On June 1, around 2330, Robert
Paige (28) called 7,200 foot base
camp, saying he was sick and could
not stop vomiting. Base camp
manager Anne Duquette told him that
he should take fluids, if he could keep
0 571
them down, and call back in the
Equipment Failure—Wired Nut Broke, 1996
Fall on Rock, Protection
California, Pulled, California,
Yosemite Valley, El Yosemite Valley, El C
Capitan
On October 6, about 1900, Baek Man
(27) was leading the pitch off Camp 5
on the Nose, using aid. He had placed
a few pieces of protection and was
standing on a fixed wired nut when it
broke. A small Friend he had placed
0 572
pulled out during his fall, and he
 Exposure, Dehydration, Inadequate Equipment
1996 (Rope, Altimeter,
Alaska, Mount Compass,
McKinley,Clothing),
West Party Separated, Ex
Buttress
A group of thirteen Taiwanese were
training for an Everest expedition.
Twelve of the group flew into 7,200
foot base camp on May 31, with the
final team member arriving on June 8.
Four team members, Chang Yang-
0 573
Du, Kuang Ming Wang, Chang Shun
Fall into Bergschrund, Unroped, Poor Visibility,
1996 British
BritishColumbia,
Columbia,Bugaboo
Bugaboo Glacier, Howser Spires
Glacier,
Howser Spires
On September 3, R. D. and K. S.
completed a new route on North
Howser Spire (3400 meters), and
after most of the descent, were
unroped on a low-angled snow and
rock slope about 200 meters from the
0 574
relatively flat glacier. K. S. decided to
Fall into Crevasse while Ski Mountaineering,
1996 Alaska, Mount
Alaska, Wrangell-St.
Mount Elias Elias
Wrangell-St. National Park, Mount Wra
National Park, Mount Wrangell
A party of five skiers attempting a ski-
traverse of Mount Wrangell in
Wrangell-St. Elias National Park were
rescued April 11 by pilot Harley
McMahan after a full day aerial search
by McMahan and the National Park
0 575
Service. The group was found ten
Fall into Crevasse—Snow Bridge Collapse,1996Poor Position, Inadequate
Alaska, Mount Protection—No
McKinley, West Belay or Fixed Rop
Buttress
On June 28 at 1900, Dominic
Marshall (25) and Reggie Perrin fell
into a crevasse at 13,600 feet while
ascending the West Buttress. Perrin is
disabled and Marshall was assisting
him to walk when the two broke
0 576
through a bridged crevasse. Marshall
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Belay, California,
1996
TempleCalifornia,
Crag Temple Crag
On October 4, Gary Niblock, Mike
Nichols (both 48) and Mark Harris
(42) were climbing an ice chute
northwest of Temple Crag. About
1300, Harris reached the top first and
began watching his friends climb to
the top.
0 577
Niblock and Nichols were roped
Fall on Ice, Placed No Protection, Alberta,
1996RockyAlberta,
Mountains,
together as Aberdeen
Rocky
theyMountains,
climbed. OneMount
of the
Aberdeen
two lost his footing and slid down the
About
ice. The1700 on August
partner tried to27,
stopa party of
the fall
four were descending the north
glacier separating the summits of Mts.
Aberdeen (3152 meters) and Haddo.
On the lower ice tongue (angled about
38 degrees), they were tied in on
0 578
separate ropes, with R. T. and A. B.
 Fall on Rappel—No Belay, Inexperience, 1996
Nova Scotia,
Nova Eagle's
Scotia,Nest
Eagle’s Nest
On April 13, Chris and Ray went out
to this popular climbing area to do
some basic top- roping. They decided
to rappel to the bottom of the 20-
meter cliff, even though Chris was not
very experienced at rappelling. Chris
went first, and after descending about
0 579
ten meters, her right foot slipped,
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, California,
1996 Yosemite Valley,
California, Nutcracker
Yosemite Valley,
Nutcracker
On July 1, Paul Bennett (41) and
Randy Kanta were climbing the
Nutcracker, 5.8, on Manure Pile
Buttress. Bennett led the last pitch; he
climbed the low-angle slab off the
belay, placed a nut in the steep
0 580
corner, then climbed to the mantle,
Fall on Rock, Haste—Trying to Stick to1996
a Schedule, California,
California, YosemiteValley,
Yosemite Valley,North
North Dome Gulley
Dome Gulley
On July 6, Dave Bedell (34) and Matt
Niswonger finished climbing the South
Face of Washington Column and
bivouacked on the summit. Early the
next morning they headed for North
Dome Gulley. Bedell had descended
0 581
this way previously, staying close to
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Alberta,
1996 Rocky Mountains,
About 1500 onCougar Canyon
May 13, Kananaskis
E.M.S. received a call regarding an
injured rock climber up Cougar Creek.
They notified Park rangers and
Canmore Fire Department, then left
for the scene. The ranger on duty
directed a colleague to Cougar
Canyon immediately while he
0 582
gathered appropriate rescue
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Handhold
1996 Failure, Alberta,
Alberta, RockyRocky Mountains,
Mountains, Kid Goat Buttress, "Ke
Kid Goat
Buttress, “Keelhaul Wall”
On July 24, Laura and Marty went to
the Canadian Rockies for a climbing
trip, hoping to do a few routes in the
Bow Corridor. Starting at Kid Goat
Buttress, they had a good time on
“Twilight Zone,” found the north
0 583
descent gully, and then proceeded up
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Piton
1996Pulled On
OutJune
Ontario,
18, Little
BruceBlue Mountains
Stover (19), Sherri
May (18), John Rothwell (23), Kip
Brennan (15), and I (Shawn Shea, 30)
arrived at Little Blue Mountain about
1:00 p.m. to do some top roping and
lead climbs. Bruce was leading a 5.10
climb called “A-Okay” that he had
completed on other occasions. I was
0 584
belaying another lead climb 30 feet
 Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, California, 1996
Yosemite California,
Valley, El Capitan
Yosemite Valley, El
Capitan
On August 16, about noon, Brian
Biega (23) was leading the 6th pitch
of the Salathe Wall, belayed by
Andreas Zegers (24). Their goal was
to make Mammoth Terrace in two
hours. They had 40 minutes to go,
0 585
and Biega, nearing the end of the slab
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Nova
1996
Scotia,Nova
Eagle's Nest, "No
Scotia, Man's
Eagle’s Land"
Nest, “No Man’s
Land”
September 30 was a great climbing
day at Eagles Nest. The cool morning
air of Fall was quickly warming up, the
skies were clear, and the rock was
cool to the touch. It was the type of
day Brian Merry dreams of for
0 586
climbing, and he was on his way with
FALL ON ROCK, 1996 Ontario, Ron Echo Provincial Park,
PROTECTION PULLED OUT— “Ottawa” Route
LEADER AND RELAYER, On September 4, J. N.(47) was
DEHYDRATION/FATIGUE leading the second pitch of “Ottawa”
(5.7), belayed by M. C.(22), when he
fell while attempting the crux of the
route. J. N. sustained a contusion to
his right thigh and abrasions to his
0 587
right hand. He then set up an
Fall on Rock, Unroped, Alberta, Rocky 1996
Mountains, Mount Rocky
Alberta, Indefatigable
Mountains, Mount
Indefatigable
On September 5, Kananaskis Country
rangers were informed that someone
had fallen down the East Face of Mt.
Indefatigable (2670 meters) from the
ridge joining its two peaks. A
helicopter was requested, and a
0 588
search and rescue operation
Fall on Rock, Unroped, Handhold Came1996Off, British Columbia,
British Rocky
Columbia, Mountains,
Rocky Mount Assiniboine
Mountains,
Mount Assiniboine
On September 21, two climbers were
beginning the standard North Ridge
route of Mt. Assiniboine (3620
meters). The route was in excellent
late-season condition with hard firm
snow, which necessitated the use of
0 589
crampons for the entire ascent,
Fall on Rock, Unroped, No Hard Hat, Alberta,
1996 Rocky Mountains,
Alberta, Rocky Tonquin Valley,
Mountains, Surprise Point
Tonquin
Valley, Surprise Point
Two Japanese members of an Indian
Summer Alpine Club Camp at the
Wates-Gibson Hut climbed and
scrambled up fourth-class terrain of
the northeast aspect of Surprise Point
(2400 meters) to a peak on its north
0 590
ridge on September 13. After
 of hardware implanted in my leg.
My heartfelt gratitude to the Yosemite
SAR Team for their excellent work, in
a time when I imagine they are really
strapped financially. Also, thanks to
Fall on Slick Rock, Haste—Appointment 1996
at the Bar, "Failure to Recognize The..." California, Yosemite Va
the Medi-Flight folks who got me to
Modesto for emergency surgery in
poor weather conditions.
Chalk up another one for ANAM;
never thought it could be me! I’m still
trying to figure out how it will read:
“Failure to recognize the…” (Source:
0 591 Tom McMillan, 39)
Fall on Snow, Exposure, Probably AMS, 1996
Alaska, Alaska,
Mount McKinley, West Buttress
Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
On June 9, a Spanish climber fell
4,000 feet to his death on Mount
McKinley while two of his fellow
countrymen clung to a frosty perch
just below the summit until they were
rescued with a litter after 2300.
0 592
The death came near the end of a day
Fall on Snow/Ice, Place No Protection, Inadequate
1996 ofEquipment,
Alaska,
effortsMount Alaska,
to rescue Mt. three
McKinley,
the McKinley,
West West Buttress
Buttress
Spaniards, including one attempt in
On
which April 21, 1995,
a Park Servicethehelicopter
“Angove- nearly
McKinley Expedition” departed from
Talkeetna for the 7,200 foot base
camp on Mount McKinley. United
States Naval Officers Lt. Michael
Angove (31) and Lt. Cmdr. Brian
0 593 Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake
McKinley (37) were the third climbing
Fall on Snow—Ski Mountaineering, AMS, Louise,
Alaska, Louise
1996Weather—Extreme Mount FallsAlaska,
Winds,
Foraker, MountRidge
Sultana Foraker, Sultana Ri
A
On June 10, at 2230climbing
party of two were Julie Faurethe (33),
upper pillar (grade
Jim Hopkins V) ofMontecucco
(31), John this popular
waterfall
(29), and Tyson Bradley (29) ten
on March 20, About started
meters out fromRidge
up the Sultana the belay, the leader
on Mount
fell, pulling
Foraker out the
(17,400 onefrom
feet) screw he had
a high
placed for protection. The
camp at 12,000 feet. Winds blew 25 resulting
20-meter
to 30 miles fallper
was arrested
hour and the byparty
his
0 594 belayer, but swiftly
the force of the fall spun
cramponed on firm snow,
Falling Ice, Poor Position, Alberta, Rocky
1996
Mountains, Weeping
Alberta,
him around Rocky Wall
and Mountains,
he sustained Weeping
a
Wall
fractured fibula. The leader was not
On December
injured. The two 29, two ice were
climbers climbers
were on the second pitch
assisted to the base of the waterfallof the left
sideanofACMG
by the Weeping Guide whoWallwas(grade IV)
working
when
in the the
area, leader dislodged
and then a chunk of
the injured
ice ontowas
climber his belayer.
slung outThe by victim,
helicopter a 19-
to
year
an old university
ambulance student,
waiting at LakewasLouise.
0 595
wearing aMarc
(Source: helmet, but wasBanff
Ledwidge, struck on
Falls on Ice, Inadequate Belay Position,1996
Protection Pulled Out, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise, L
National Park Warden Service)
Analysis
Belays should be set up so they
transfer impacts from all likely
directions to the anchor in as straight
a line as possible. The belayer then
needs only to control the run of the
0 596 rope. (Source: Orvel Miskiw)
 Inadequate Protection—Ice Tool Came 1996
Out, Fatigue, Exceeding
Alberta, RockyAbilities, Alberta,
Mountains, GhostRocky Mountains, Gho
River, “This House of Sky” Falls
About 1600 on January 28, after
several satisfactory hours of ice
climbing, G. R. and R. P. were
attempting a pitch near the top of
“This House of Sky.” They intended to
complete that pitch, rappel down, and
0 597
then descend a walk-out route to
Overdue, Difficulty Following Route, Poor
1996Conditions—Snow,
Alberta, Rocky Inexperience,
Mountains,Frostbite,
Mount Alberta, Rocky M
Edith Cavell
On September 30, G. M. (30) and
partner (39) climbed the East Ridge of
Mt. Edith Cavell (3363 meters). The
route was in poor condition, with snow
Although adequately equipped, they
were relatively inexperienced and had
0 598
trouble with route finding. A 40- hour
Overdue, Weather Poor Navigation, Climbing
1996 Alone, Alberta,
Alberta, Rocky
Rocky Mountains,
Mountains, Columbia Ice Field
Columbia
Ice Field
On July 22, D. E.(52) started up the
Athabasca Glacier on his way to Mt.
Columbia, and reached its summit
(3748 meters) in a whiteout at 1600.
Starting out toward the road, he
biwied on the ice field south of Snow
0 599
dome. Next morning he broke camp
Protection Pulled, Fall on Rock, Indadequate
1996 Protection, No Hard
California, Hat Valley, El
Yosemite
Capitan
While Biega was being rescued (see
previous account), Kirk Bland (33),
Luc Mailloux, and Kevin McCracken
(23) were fixing pitches on Mescalito,
several hundred yards to the east.
The second pitch, A2, was Blands
0 600
lead. Just before reaching the belay
Rappel Error—Anchor Sling Came Off,1996 Inadequate Protection,
California, Fall on Rock,
Yosemite California,
Valley, SentinelYosemite Valley,
Rock.
On April 17, Charles Comstock (34)
and Jay Schifferdecker (27) hiked up
the third-class approach ramps to the
Chouinard-Herbert route on Sentinel
Rock. When they reached the climb it
was late. They decided they didn’t feel
0 601
like doing that route after all, so they
Rappel Error—Failed to Thread Both Ropes
1996 Through Friction
Arizona, Device,Stronghold
Cochise No Belay, Arizona, Cochise Strong
On October 28, John Payne, Jr., Mark
Plassman, and Bruce McKenzie set
off for “What’s My Line,” a three-pitch
5.6 in Cochise Stronghold. The trio
topped out in the early afternoon and
had lunch. After lunch, they set up the
rappel and Bruce headed down to the
0 602
first ledge, a mere 30 feet down and
 Rappel Error—Only Clipped into One Rope,
1996 No Belay, Ontario,
Ontario, Milton,
Milton, KelsoKelso Conservation Area, "Jolly R
Conservation
Area, “Jolly Rodger” Route
Two climbers, S. H. and W. T. from
Mississauga, finished climbing the
route “Jolly Rodger” around 1400 on
August 23, and decided to rappel
down the route. S. H. would go first,
but declined a safety belay which W.
0 603
T. offered him. A tree was slung with
Rappel Failure—Error in Anchoring, Inexperience,
1996 Alberta,Rocky
Alberta, RockyMountains,
Mountains, Mount Rundle
Rundle
On September 10, David and Edward,
(both 18), from England, and
temporary employees of the Banff
Springs Hotel, were rock climbing on
the lower ridge of Mt. Rundle when an
accident occurred in which David fell
0 604
to his death.
Rappel Failure—Inadequate Anchor Equipment,
1996 No Hard Hat,Yosemite
California, California, Yosemite
Valley, El Valley, El Capitan
Capitan
About 1800 on July 31, Ik Tae Choi
(23) died in a fall on the East Ledges
descent route on El Capitan. Choi led
5.11, A3 and had six years climbing
experience, including the Matterhorn,
the Eiger North Face and the West
0 605
Face of the Dru. On this, his first trip
Rappel Failure—Inadequate Anchor Setup,
1996Inadequate Equipment,
Alberta, Alberta,
Lake Louise, Lake
Rack ofLouise,
the Back of the Lake
Lake Crag
On October 6, a climber was being
lowered by her partner in order to
retrieve her protection slings after
leading the route “Top Gun” (5.7).
After descending about 15 meters,
she reached the lower-angled section
0 606
of the climb and removed the last
Slip on Snow, No Hard Hat, Alberta, Rocky
1996 Mountains,
Alberta,Mount
Rocky Haddo
Mountains, Mount
Haddo
After a successful ascent of Mt.
Haddo (3071 meters) on September
16, a party of three were descending
a gully system toward Paradise Valley
from the Haddo-Aber- deen saddle,
when the highest climber lost his
0 608
footing on the snow and slid onto the
Stranded, Darkness—Late Start, Off Route,
1996Inadequate Clothing,
California, Creating
Yosemite a Hazardous
Valley, Condition, Califor
Fairview
Dome
On August 9, about 1100, Bill Ott (47)
and Hugo Orellana (24) began
climbing the Regular Route (III-IV 5.9)
on Fairview Dome. They were the last
party to start up the climb that day At
least five parties were already on the
0 609
route so Ott and Orellana had waited
 Stranded, Misperception—Route Research,1996Inadequate Equipment,
California, Creating
Yosemite a Hazardous
Valley, El Condition
Capitan Zodiac
On Sunday, June 10, Dan McOmber
(26) and Curt Chesney (25) fixed
three pitches on the Zodiac (Grade
VI) on El Capitan, and checked the
forecast—clear and mild through
Thursday. They started up for good
0 610
on Monday, planning to summit late
Stranded—Ropes Jammed, Haste—To Try 1996to Catch Thieves, Yosemite
California, InadequateValley,
Equipment—No
Middle Knife, Californi
Cathedral Rock
On September 13, Chris Heck (39)
and Michael Taylor (28) set out to
climb the Central Pillar of Fren2y on
Middle Cathedral Rock. In Hecks
words, “We had planned to do five
pitches and descend the route but
0 611
started down after four, after my
Weather, Hypothermia, Inadequate Equipment,
1996 California, Yosemite
California, YosemiteValley, El Capitan,
Valley, El The Nose
Capitan, The Nose
On April 9, two parties of climbers
started up the Nose (Grade VI) on El
Capitan. One group included John
Montecucco (30) and Shawn Kelley
(28) and the other Aaron Silverman
(27) and Matt Francis (25). All four
0 612
had several years of experience and
Weather, Probably Hypothermia, Combined1996 with Alaska,
Snow Bridge Collapse,
Mount Alaska,
McKinley, Mount McKinley, West B
West
Buttress
On May 26, the “Free at Last”
expedition discovered three deceased
climbers—Thomas Downey (52),
Scott Hall (34), and Jimmy Hinkhouse
(52)—at Windy Comer (13,300 feet).
On May 23, the OSAT expedition,
0 613
along with 12 other climbers, decided
Cerebral Edema, Washington, Mount Rainier
1996 Washington, Mount Rainier
At 1030 on June 16, the climbing
team of volunteers Dave Turner, Jim
Funsten, and I met Todd Auker (37)
and his rope mates Dave Walters and
Scott Weir on the summit of Mount
Rainier, in mildly lousy weather. Auker
made the comment, “I think my brain
0 614
stem is pushing through my foramen
Cornice Collapse, Poor Position, Colorado,
1996San Juans, Engineer
Colorado, SanMountain
Juans, Engineer
Mountain
On April 2, David Ganley (32), Fred
Hutt (24), and Mike Seeberg (30) left
Coal Bank Pass parking lot at 0700 on
snowshoes to climb Engineer
Mountain via the North Ridge. They
left the snowshoes at the base of the
0 615
ridge and proceeded to the summit
 George's deteriorating condition.
About an hour later a helicopter and
medics from the 304th Air Rescue of
the Air Force Reserve arrived to
evacuate George. Several climbers
Darkness, Stranded, Rappel Error—Rope 1996
Jammed, Colorado,Eldorado
Colorado, Eldorado Canyon
Canyon StateStatePark, Red Garden W
and the medics lowered George to the
Park, Red Garden Wall
landing site and he was flown to the
On February 18, two climbers (one
hospital.
24) became stranded when darkness
Analysis
fell and their rappel rope jammed on
When climbing a route like Leuthold
Red Garden Wall. They made a fire to
Couloir, a speedy ascent is essential.
keep warm, and were rescued the
A party must ascend quickly to avoid
next day.
1 616 ice and rock fall danger. When
Analysis
Fall on Ice and Frozen Moss, Placed Inadequate
1996 conditions
Protection, feelHampshire,
New
New Hampshire, comfortable,
Cannon Cannon many
Cliff, Cliff, Black Dike
Black
people
Dike climb this route without
protection.
The ice on the However,
Black Dike this accident
did not
shows that under these
reach all the way to the top conditions
of the the
snow was too hard for
route on this Thanksgiving Day, one climber to
hold
November 23. Fred Abraham (35) in
another's fall. A running belay
this
was case
forcedprobably
to climbwouldfrozenhavemoss held
and
George's fall or at least slowed
thin ice at the very top of the final it
0 617 enough for Craig to be ablethree
to hold
pitch. When he was about feethis
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Maine,
1996Acadiaarrest.
NationalAcadia
Maine, Park, Dorr Mountain
National Park, Dorr
Mountain
With all of the talk today about the
About
expense 1245 on January
of climbing 8, Sam
rescues, I want to
Woodward (50), an
comment that this rescue was experienced
climber
handledfrommainly Surry,
by the was almostclimbers
injured at the
top of a 70 foot ice route called
party and our party that just happened “The
Bulge”
to be atwhen he fell. He
the accident doesBoth
scene. not
remember
parties were the cause
very wellofequipped
the fall. for
0 618
Woodward
the evacuation had and
placed basic anpatient
ice screw care.
Fall on Ice, Oregon, Mount Hood, Leuthold
1996Couloir
about 30 feet above the start of the
George's possible life-threatening
route. He
injuries didthen ran out
require the rope on
a helicopter
easier angled
evacuation, iceinwith
but no additional
Oregon, the 304th
uses this type of evacuation to qualify
for training hours, so there is no cost
to the public. (Source: Michele and
Tim McCall, Eugene Mountain
0 620 Rescue)
Fall on Rock While Setting Up Rappel, 1996
Oregon, Rocky
Oregon,Butte
Rocky Butte
On February 24, Allison O’Grady (21),
a Pacific University junior, fell from the
top of Rocky Butte as she and a
companion were setting up a rappel
so they could descend their climb of
the butte. She suffered head injuries
and was in critical condition. We do
0 621
not know whether she was wearing a
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Exceeding
1996 Abilities, Massachusetts,
Massachusetts, Chapelbrook Reservation, Chapel L
Chapelbrook
Reservation, Chapel Ledges
On August 10, Pam Chavis (25) fell
75 feet from Chapel Ledges, where
she was attempting her first free-solo
climb. She had reached for a
handhold, shifted some of her weight
to that hand, then slipped. She got
0 622
away with one leg fractured and one
 Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Inexperience,
1996 Utah,
Utah,Wasatch
Wasatch Mountains,
Mountains,Mount Olympus
Mount
Olympus
On June 29, Michael Fox and two
companions were hiking in the North
Fork, below Mount Olympus. Along
the way, they encountered a rock
buttress that Michael decided to free
climb. After attaining about 40 feet in
0 623
height, he lost his footing and fell to
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Oregon, 1996
Rocky Oregon,
Butte Rocky Butte
On August 19, Larry Anglin (31) was
free climbing an 80 foot practice cliff,
fell, and sustained critical head
injuries. Subject was not wearing a
helmet, but it is unlikely that a helmet
would have made any difference. It is
not known why Mr. Anglin climbed a
0 624
moderate 5th class practice route
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Instructions,
1996 Utah,Utah,
Wasatch Mountains,
Wasatch Big Cottonwood
Mountains, Rig Canyon
Cottonwood Canyon
On July 5, Karen Wilson, a student in
an organized climbing course, took an
unroped fall of approximately eight
feet. Miss Wilson had completed her
turn climbing and rappelling, and had
removed her climbing harness and
0 625
climbing helmet, so that she could slip
Fall on Rock, Fatigue, Late Start, Colorado,
1996Rocky MountainRocky
Colorado, National Park, Hallett
Mountain Peak
National
Park, Hallett Peak
On July 15, at 1030, Robert Gould
(53) and Kenneth Brenneman (55) left
Bear Lake trailhead to do an ascent of
the Northcutt-Carter Route on Hallett
Peak. Upon arrival at the base of the
North Face, they realized that their
0 626
start was too late. So at noon, they
Fall on Rock, Improperly Placed Bolts, 1996
ExceedingIllinois,
Abilities, Illinois,Rluff
Drapers Drapers Bluff
On April 1, David Krupp (26) fell 30
feet from a 5.10 bolted route. He set
out with three experienced climbers to
ascend his first bolted route. He was a
skilled beginner but had no
experience using slings. The route
was first attempted by one of his
0 627
climbing partners who secured into
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Equipment, Utah,
1996Wasatch
Utah,Mountains,
WasatchBig Cottonwood
Mountains, BigCanyon
Cottonwood Canyon
On April 26, Brandon Keller (22) fell
while leading “Skyscraper,” a one
pitch climb, in Big Cottonwood
Canyon. Keller suffered injuries to his
head, neck, and back as a result of
the fall. Witnesses indicated that
0 628
Keller was leading, and was up
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Exceeding
1996 Abilities
On MayNew 21, Hampshire,
Craig JohnsonCathedral
(26) wasLedge, Intimidation
at the crux move on Intimidation
(5.10) trying to place protection, but
could not. So he “went for it.” He
made the crux and was about to put in
protection when he slipped off
“polished, moist rock.” He fell 20 feet
and hit a ledge just as the rope came
0 629
tight. He broke both tibias and fibulas.
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Exceeding
1996 Abilities,
Colorado,Colorado, Rocky Mountain
Rocky Mountain National National Park, Lump
Park, Lumpy Ridge, The Pear
Buttress
On September 3, 1995, David Charis-
Mink (39) began climbing the
standard 5.7 runout start on The Pear
Buttress (III, 5.8+) on the Book
formation of Lumpy Ridge. Charis-
0 630
Mink said that he lost his grip about
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Utah,
1996Wasatch
20 Mountains,
Utah,
feetWasatch Parleys Canyon
Mountains,
up, causing him Parleys
to fall to the
Canyon
ground. He fractured his lower left leg,
On Marcha19,
requiring Guy
litter Riley (25)byfell
evacuation thewhile
climbing on a popular rock buttress at
the mouth of Parleys Canyon. Details
were somewhat sketchy but Mr.
Rileys protection apparently pulled
while on lead, causing him to fall
0 631
approximately 15 feet to the ground.
Fall on Rock, Inexperience, Overcrowded1996
Route, Colorado,
Colorado, Rocky
RockyMountain
Mountain National
National Park, Hallett Peak
Park, Hallett Peak
On September 4, Labor Day, Tom(40)
and Ed (42) had planned to climb
Culp-Bossier on Hallet Peak. We got
a late start as we got to the base of
the climb at 0815. Someone at the
base said that there were eleven
0 632
people on the route. Because of this
Fall on Rock, Maryland, Carderock 1996 Maryland, Carderock
On May 16, I was half way up Jan's
Face, a climb at the north end of the
Carderock Climbing Area, when we
heard someone calling, in a weak
voice, “HELP, I think I have broken
my leg.” I called back, “We will be
right there,” and asked for a ride from
0 633
my belayer. A woman climbing next to
Fall on Rock, Placed No Protection, Colorado,
1996 Eldorado Canyon
Colorado, State Park,
Eldorado T-2 State
Canyon
Park, T-2
On October 7, a climber (38) was
beginning to lead the eighth pitch of
T-2 when he fell 16 feet, hitting the
wall with his foot, resulting in a
fracture. He was experienced (18
years and 5.11 leader), and this
0 634
probably helped in his self-rescue
 Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, New
1996
Hampshire,
NewRumney Cliff,Rumney
Hampshire, Holderness School Crack
Cliff,
Holderness School Crack
On July 3, I was leading Holderness
School Crack, which I have climbed at
least 20 times and led (in fact I led it
before the accident). I scrambled onto
the ledge, started the climb and
placed a directional nut near the
0 635
bottom. I continued and placed a #1
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Utah,
1996Wasatch Mountains,
Utah, Wasatch BigMountains,
Cottonwood Canyon
Big
Cottonwood Canyon
On June 23, Bryce Perkins fell while
leading a climbing route in Big
Cottonwood Canyon. Mr. Perkins’ fall
of approximately 60 feet, resulted in
injuries to his head, back and one
ankle. His belayer indicated that
0 636
Perkins slipped while making a move,
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error—Anchor Knot 1996Failed,Utah,
Utah,Wasatch
Wasatch Mountains,
Mountains,Big
BigCottonwood Canyon
Cottonwood Canyon
On June 17, Harmer Kirt fell while
rappelling at Storm Mountain in Big
Cottonwood Canyon. Kirt fell 15 to 20
feet and injured his ankle and wrist.
Mr. Kirt was removed by the Sheriff's
SAR team and transported by
0 637
ambulance to the hospital.
Fall on Rock, Wet Rock, Haste, Colorado,
1996Rocky Colorado,
Mountain National Park, Hallett
Rocky Mountain Peak
National
Park, Hallett Peak
On July 29, Robert Logan (37) and
Chris Weaver (25) were attempting
the Culp-Bossier Route (III, 5.8) on
Hallett Peak. While leading the
second to last pitch around 1700,
Logan encountered a wet section of
0 638
rock of moderate difficulty. He
Fall on Rock—Lowering Error, Idaho, City
1996of Rocks National
Idaho, Reserve
City of Rocks National Reserve
On August 6, Emily Town (19) was
leading an estimated 240 foot climb
up Stripe Rock when she and her
father Glen Town, who was lowering
her down the rock, ran out of rope,
according to Wallace Keck, Assistant
Reserve Manager. She died instantly
0 640
from severe head trauma, according
Fall on Snow/Ice Covered Rock, Protection
1996PulledNewOut,Hampshire,
New Hampshire, Cannon
Cannon Cliff,Cliff,
OmegaOmega
On March 13, Alan Cattabriga (35)
started up Omega, an extremely
difficult and dangerous mixed (ice,
rock, verglas, and snow-covered rock)
route on the east face of Cannon Cliff
a few hundred feet south of the
Whitney-Gilman Arete. Cattabriga
0 641
placed protection near the ground and
 Fall on Snow—Crampon Caught in Clothing,
1996 Unable to Self-Arrest,
Washington, MountWashington,
Stuart Mount Stuart
On July 16, Teresa Soucie (41)—a
member of the King County Search
and Rescue Team—was beginning
her descent of the Cascadian Couloir
on Mount Stuart when she tripped
after apparently catching her crampon
on a piece of clothing. She slid 300
0 642
feet into a rock pile, resulting in a
Fall on Snow—Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing
1996 Alone, Haste—Resulting
Washington, in Wearing Rock Shoes on Snow
Mount Stuart
After summiting Mount Baker in the
early morning of July 9,1 drove about
3/4 of the way to Seattle and got a
hotel room to dry out gear and repack
for a solo attempt of Mount Stuart. On
the 10th, I drove from the hotel to the
parking area south of the mountain
0 643
and hiked the four hour approach
Fall Through Snow—Spruce Trap, Off Route,
1996 Inadequate Equipment—Compass,
New Hampshire, New Hampshire, Mount
Mount Washington,
Raymond Cataract
On January 9, Kevin Rogers (33) and
Mark Landry (30) of Portland, ME,
made a successful ascent of Pinnacle
Gully Around 1300 they started their
descent from the Alpine Garden,
intending to use the Escape Hatch, a
0 644
snow gully which climbers sometimes
Falling Rock, Poor Position, Colorado, Ouray,
1996 Dexter Creek Slabs
Colorado, Ouray, Dexter Creek Slabs
On February 26, the Ouray Mountain
Rescue Team was called out to
rescue Carroll Robinson (36), who
had been struck on the head by a
large rock. He and his partners, Dan
Mays and Steve House, were
rappelling at the time, and Robinson
0 645
was tied into a belay station mid-way
Falling Rock, Poor Position, Maine, Mount
1996Katahdin,
Maine,Chimney
MountPond
Katahdin, Chimney
Pond
On September 2, two parties—
Michael Lanza (34) and Penny Beach
(29) in one group, Bill Mistretta (?),
Rick Baron (30) and Diane Mailloux
(24) in the other—were climbing
simultaneously. Lanza and Mistretta
0 646
were at the top of the second lead
Falling Rock—Dislodged, Fall on Snow, 1996
Exceeding Abilities,
Oregon, Inadequate
Mount Equipment/Clothing,
Jefferson, Milk Creek Oregon, M
During the weekend of July 29-30, six
teenage boys elected to climb Mount
Jefferson via the Milk Creek route.
Nearing the summit pinnacle, they
drifted north, crossing the creek, and
ascended steep snow without helmets
and unroped. Not all had ice axes.
0 647
Around 1430, a large boulder was
 standard single-engine MAST
helicopter, which generally isn’t used
above 7,000 feet. Instead, a more
powerful helicopter had to be
dispatched from Fairchild Air Force
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, No
1996
Hard Hat, Washington, Mount Stuart
Base in Spokane.
Initially, doctors were optimistic about
Rieker’s condition. But he died at
Yakima Valley Memorial Hospital
seven days after the accident.
(Source: Yakima Herald, from an
article by Craig Torianello, July 23,
0 648 1995.)
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, No
1996
Ice AxeColorado,
Leash System,
RockyColorado,
MountainRocky Mountain National Par
National
Park, Andrews Glacier
On September 16, Charles Bailey (37)
slipped on Andrews Glacier while
glissading. He lost his ice ax and was
unable to stop himself. He slid
hundreds of feet on icy surface before
coming to rest into rocks at Andrews
0 649
Tarn. Bailey received a serious head
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Washington,
1996 Guy Peak Guy Peak
Washington,
On January 7, John Hughes (46)
climbed Guy Peak with four other
experienced friends. He was just
starting to descend when he slipped
from his glissade and could not
selfarrest. He yelled, “Out of the way,”
and fell 1,000 feet down the standard
0 650
route, over at least two cliff bands,
Not Anchored at Belay—Miscommunication,
1996 No New
Hard Hampshire,
Hat, New Hampshire,
Cannon Cannon Cliff,
Cliff, Slip O’ Slip O' Fools
Fools
On October 1, Daniel Gelsomini (29)
fell 35 to 40 feet from the top of the
first pitch of Slip O’ Fools at the north
end of Cannon Cliff. He had reached
the belay stance and called, “I’m off.”
Lori Gelsomini (29), Dan’s wife and
0 651
climbing partner, unlocked the
Overdue Climbers—Off Route, Inadequate
1996Equipment,
Utah, Party Separated,
Wasatch Inexperience,
Mountains, Exhaustion, Dehydr
Lisa Falls
Couloir
On June 26, the Salt Lake County
Sheriff's SAR team was notified that
two members, from an original group
of five mountaineers, were overdue
and presumed lost or injured. The trip
had begun the previous day, with a
0 652
group of five climbers, which started
Overdue—Missing, Probably Fall on Rock/Snow,
1996 ClimbingMount
Oregon, Alone,Hood,
Oregon, Mount Hood, Cathedral Ridge
Cathedral
Ridge
Ken Budlong (45), an experienced
Portland climber, was reported
overdue from a solo climb of
Cathedral Ridge on Monday,
September 26. On Sunday night he
phoned home with his cellular at high
0 653
camp and conveyed his plan to
 Rappel Anchor Error—Inadequate Protection,
1996 FallColorado,
on Rock, No HardMountain
Rocky Hat, Colorado, Rocky Mountain Nat
National
Park, Lumpy Ridge
On December 2, Greg Levine (28)
and a female companion decided to
retreat from the first pitch of Hand
Over Hand (I, 5.7) on Batman Rock at
Lumpy Ridge. Levine, the leader,
allowed his friend to rappel from a
0 654
station of two stoppers he had set.
Rappel Anchor Failure—Rock Broke Loose,
1996 Fall Washington,
on Rock, Washington, Mount Stuart
Mount Stuart
On July 10, Kris Stout (30) and his
climbing partner had waited out a
storm on Mount Stuart before
beginning their descent. Stout was
preparing to descend by rope when
he tied a line around a rock the size of
a car.
0 655
As Stout leaned back to begin
Rappel Error—Clipped to One Rope, Fall
1996on Rock, Oregon,Smith
Oregon,
rappelling, Smith Rockbroke
Rock
the rock State loose.
State Park
Park It
On
rolled over him and fell 150(24)
February 4, John Elgin feet.fell
One 60
feet after failing to rig his rappel
climber said the rock should have
properly. All that is known is that
another climber shouted to Elgin to
recheck his rig as he prepared to
rappel. Apparently he only clipped in
to one of the double strands. (Source:
0 656
Jeff Sheetz, Portland Mountain
Rappel Error—Ropes Uneven, Colorado,
1996Eldorado Canyon State
Colorado, Park, Hand
Eldorado CanyonCrackState
Park, Hand Crack
On June 11, a climber (29) rappelled
off the end of one-half of his rope and
fell 30 feet. He indicated that his
rappel rope was not doubled equally.
(Source: Tim Metzger, Park Manager,
Eldorado Canyon State Park)
0 657
Stranded, Exceeding Abilities New Hampshire,
1996 Cannon Cliff,
On July 13, Lakeview
Eric Lougee, with two
years of climbing experience, took his
cousin, Donald Lougee (33), to
Cannon Cliff for what Donald thought
was to be an introductory climbing
lesson. After a short lesson, the two
men started up Lakeview. When
Donald realized that they were
1 658
headed for the top he objected, but
Stranded, Inadequate Equipment, Bad Advice,
1996 Colorado, Rocky
Colorado, Mountain
Rocky National
Mountain Park, Longs Peak
National
Park, Long’s Peak
On September 17, at 1140, two
unidentified females (approximate
ages 25) became stranded on the
North Face of Longs Peak on the
crack system adjacent to the south of
the old Cables Route. They yelled for
1 659
help, and Larry Solsvig (a technical
 Stranded, No Equipment, Colorado, Rocky1996Mountain National
Colorado, Park, Mountain
Rocky Hallett Peak
National
Park, Hallett Peak
On August 17,1995, Gabor Vereczi
(25) and Zoltan Vereczi (23) were
attempting the 400 foot high east face
of the East Glacier Knob. The
Hungarian climbers were not using
technical equipment, and became
1 661
stranded on separate ledges 150 feet
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
1996 No Hard Hat, Wyoming,
Wyoming, GrandNational
Grand Teton Teton National
Park, Park, Teewin
Teewinot
Keith Hensler (64) was supposed to
pick up a friend, Lance Brown, at the
Lupine Meadows trailhead on the
afternoon of September 4. When
Brown arrived at the trailhead about
1830, Hensler’s car was there, but
0 664
Hensler was not. Brown became
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Party 1996
Separated,Wyoming,
ExceedingGrand
Abilities, No Hard
Teton Hat, Park,
National Wyoming, Grand Te
Cascade Canyon
On September 23, at 2230 Grand
Teton dispatch received a call from
Mike Shaw (23) reporting his partner,
Keith Berlin (24) was missing after the
pair had become separated while rock
scrambling in Cascade Canyon. Berlin
0 665
had scrambled up a rock outcropping
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, Washington,
1996 North Cascades,North
Washington, Liberty Bell
Cascades, Liberty
Bell
On August 14, Stim Bullit (75) and I
(47) were climbing the third pitch (I led
the first two pitches)—a crack above a
ledge. Stim got to the crux of the 5.8
crack, couldn’t figure it out and
backed down. I volunteered to try to
0 666
lead it, couldn’t figure out how to climb
Fall on Rock, West Virginia, Seneca Rocks,
1996 WestWest
Face Virginia, Seneca Rocks, West
Face
On August 20, Kel Young was leading
“The Prune” at Seneca Rocks. He had
placed protection above the small
ledge which is just below the finish of
the second pitch. After a couple of
moves, he fell, toeing the ledge as he
0 667
went by it. He was lowered to the
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing
1996 Unroped,
Wyoming, Wyoming,
Grand Grand
TetonTeton National
National Park,Park, Teewinot
Teewinot
On August 1, Pamela Foyster (36)
was descending the east face of
Teewinot. About 1315 she fell while
plunge-stepping down the snow which
leads down from the big notch near
the summit. She failed to self-arrest
0 668
and tumbled out of control for
 the snow and snap his rope to it, a
technique most climbers use for an
anchor, the report said. His ax was
later found with only the tip in the
snow. Also, one of the crampons
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing
1996 Unroped, fitWyoming,
Wyoming,
didn’t hisGrand Grand
TetonTeton
boot properly, andNational
National thePark,Park, Teewinot
Grandhad
other Tetonbroken in half and was no
Clay Roscoe
longer screwed (26)
in and Megan T. Piper
tightly.
(25)
In traveled
their down
last radio from Montana
contact, Ryan said on
July 30 and spent the night
Otis was having trouble with his in the
Bridger
crampons. Teton
He National
used duct Forest at
tape and
Station Creek, located in
then white athletic tape to try tothe Snake
River
secureCanyon.
them, the About
reportnoon on July 31
says.
0 669
they came to the Jenny Lake
Otis probably found the park-owned ranger
Falls on Snow and Ice, Inadequate Equipment—Crampons
1996 Wrong Size and Broken, Moderate Experience,
crampons in the hut at Camp
Schurman, the base camp for ascents
up the northeast face. (Source: From
a report issued by an eight member
panel of National Park Service
employees and independent climbers
who reviewed Mount Rainier National
0 671 Park’s internal investigation)
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Fall
1996
on Snow, Wyoming,
Wyoming, Grand
Grand TetonNational
Teton NationalPark,
Park, Amphitheater
Amphitheater Lake
Grand Teton National Park dispatch
received a phone call at 1345 on
August 4, from Josh Howell who was
requesting assistance for an injured
climbing partner near Amphitheater
Lake. Dispatch transferred the call to
0 672
ranger Perch who was the SAR
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Washington,
1996 Mount BakerMount Raker
Washington,
On July 18, Robert Porter (48) was
descending the Coleman Glacier on
Mount Baker when he lost control of
his glissade and tumbled into a
crevasse, landing on a kind of saddle
that kept him from going in deeper.
He managed to throw a rope out to
0 673
his partner, who pulled him out. He
Overdue, Wyoming, Grand Teton National 1996Park, Grand TetonGrand out
Wyoming,
was helicoptered Tetonfrom National
there, Park,
and
Grand Teton
was in satisfactory condition in the
On the afternoon of September 18,
rescue coordinator Mark Magnuson
was notified of three overdue climbers
on the North Face of the Grand Teton.
A check of the trailhead found the
subjects’ vehicle still in the parking lot.
0 675
According to the reporting party,
Overdue 1996 "Wyoming, Grand Teton National
Park, Grand Teton
On July 5, Douglas Hall (26) left at
0600 to scout out the North Face
route of the Grand Teton for a future
ascent, and return via Garnet Canyon
by the Dike Col/Teepee Glacier
traverse. About noon, he decided to
0 677
ascend the East Ridge route of the
 16' Fall into Crevasse—With Water at the
1997
Bottom,Alaska,
UnableMount
to Extricate—Inadequate
McKinley, West People Power, Hypoth
Buttress
On June 21, a guided party, led by
guides Chris Morris and Stacy
Taniguchi flew onto the Kahiltna
Glacier to begin a climb of the West
Buttress route. Among the seven
clients was Dennis Gum. During the
0 678
following 14 days the group
Appendicitis, Alaska, Mount McKinley,1997
MuldrowAlaska,
Glacier Mount McKinley, Muldrow
Glacier
On June 19 at 2345, a National
Outdoor Leadership School expedition
requested a helicopter to evacuate a
sick student located at 7,200 feet on
the Muldrow Glacier.
At 0900 that day, Tilney felt
0 680
nauseous, and had abdominal pain
Avalanche, Failure to Follow Advice, Inadequate
1997 Equipment,
Colorado,
located Poor
Pyramid
in the Position,
lower right Inexperience,
Peak quadrant. At Colorado, Pyram
On
the time they were carryingfour
January 28, a party of loads.
climbers headed up Maroon Creek
Road south of Aspen during a heavy
avalanche cycle, following a major
snow storm. The road is not plowed
during the winter, but is used by a
commercial snowmobile operation.
0 681
Due to the avalanche danger,
Avalanche, Poor Position, Alaska, Mount
1997
Hunter Alaska, Mount Hunter
On May 13, 1996, Marcus von
Zitzewitz and Olaf Hecklinger were
killed when an avalanche swept them
off their climbing route on Mount
Hunter.
On May 5, four Germans, Peter
Fresia, Franz Perchtold, Marcus von
0 682
Zitzewitz, and Olaf Hecklinger, flew
Avalanche, Poor Position—Under Objective
1997 Hazards, Alaska,
Alaska,
into base MountMount
camp onHunter,
Hunter, WestWest Face
Face
the Kahiltna
At 2400 on June 21, Chuck Drake
(27) and Joshua Hane (28) departed
the 7,200-foot Kahiltna Base Camp.
They were attempting to climb a
previously unclimbed route on the
West Face of Mt. Hunter, with a return
down the West Ridge. They were
0 683
using an alpine style ascent, carrying
Back Strain, Alaska, Mount McKinley, 1997
West Buttress
Alaska, Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
On May 11, Robert Gray of the “CFS”
party twisted his back at the 14,200
foot camp on the West Buttress of Mt.
McKinley. Gray’s condition
deteriorated over the next several
days, and by the 13th he could not
0 684
walk. Their party requested
 CLIMBING ALONE and UNROPED, DISTRAUGHT, 1997 Arkansas,
Arkansas, Sam’s Sam's Throne
Throne
On October 12, Chris Harris (23) was
soloing at night on Instant Trauma
(5.10a) when he fell 75 feet to his
death.
Analysis
Harris came out late in the afternoon,
and was supposed to meet friends.
0 686
But they didn‘t show up. He took all
Crampon Problem, Inexperience, Alaska, 1997
Mount McKinley,
Alaska, West McKinley,
Mount
his gear—rope, Buttress West etc.—
solo aid device,
Buttress
On June 8, the “Love Mountain and
Beer” party of three Japanese
climbers flew in to climb the West
Buttress. They reached the summit on
June 21 at 1620 in very good weather
conditions. They were several
0 687
hundred meters from reaching their
Fall into Crevasse, Inadequate Extrication
1997
Procedure, Alaska,
Alaska, Mount
Mount McKinley,
McKinley, RuthRuth Glacier
Glacier
On June 16, all six members of the
French “Wayne’s World” expedition
including Thomas Roques, Jean
Jacques Peladeix, Jacqueline
Peladeix, Michelle Pertuis, Jean
Pierre Pertuis, and expedition leader
Peter Dutrievoz were airlifted by
0 688
helicopter from the Ruth Glacier after
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
1997 California, Morro
California, Bay, Bay,
Morro MorroMorro
Rock Rock
On January 21, Jody Walker (17) of
St. Helena died from head and neck
injuries after he plunged about 100
feet from Morro Rock while climbing
its northwest face.
“When our paramedics got to him he
was unconscious,” said Morro Bay
0 689
Fire Chief Jeff Jones. “He suffered
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
1997 Colorado, BlackBlack
Colorado,
significant Canyon
blood of the Gunnison,
Canyon
loss.” of the Leisure Route
Gunnison, Leisure Route
On October 19, Steven Permick (37),
an experienced climber, was climbing
alone in the Black Canyon. When he
failed to return, his father called the
Park Service. The body was spotted
on a ledge halfway up the Leisure
0 690
Route on Cruise Gully Permick
Fall on Rock, Helmet Not Secured Properly,
1997 Colorado, Boulder,
Colorado, First Flatiron
Boulder, First Flat Iron
It was June 8. We had been working
hard the last few months, warming up
for our annual trip to Chamonix. We
had decided to have an easy day on
the First Flatiron. The easiest route on
the formation is Bakers Way. After a
40 foot section of steep 5.4, the route
0 691
is basically a hike until it intersects
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate (No) Belay, Miscommunication,
1997 Colorado, Colorado,
EldoradoEldorado
CanyonCanyon
State State Park, Wind T
Park, Wind Tower
On June 30, a climber (16) fell 15 feet
onto a rock ledge on Wind Tower.
She thought she was being protected
by the top rope. The rope went from
her belayer (41) through the victim’s
harness. The belayer did not have her
0 692
on belay. Consequently she had no
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Failure
1997 to Follow Accepted
California, Standards, California, Redmond
Redmond
On September 21, Travis Hull (28),
North American Wilderness Academy
school administrator and master
wilderness instructor, fell to his death
while teaching a beginning rescue
class to the NAWA-USA Academy.
The USA Academy, composed of
0 693
teachers and students in grades
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, No1997
Hard Hat,Connecticut,
Connecticut, Ragged
Ragged Mountain,
Mountain,Valhalla
Valhalla
There was a fatal accident on
September 16 at the “Small Cliff” at
Ragged Mountain in Connecticut.
Following is the account of what I
believe happened. At 1910, my
climbing partner and I were walking
0 694
down the Brierly’s driveway on our
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Protection
1997 Pulled Out, No
California, Hard Hat,Valley,
Yosemite California, Yosemite Valley, Co
Cookie
Cliff
On May 26, Stephen Ross (32) was
mortally injured in a fall while leading
Beverly’s Tower, a one-pitch 5.10a
route at Cookie Cliff.
Beverly’s Tower is reached by
scrambling up third-class ledges for
0 695
about 100 feet. It follows a crack for
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, California, 1997
Yosemite California,
Valley,ten
about Sunnyside
Yosemite
feet, Bench
then Valley, up a
continues
Sunnyside Bench
On October 8, Joe Presuto (51) was
seriously injured in a fall on the jam
crack, 5.9, on Sunnyside Bench.
He protected right off the ground,
placed four pieces in the first 40 feet,
then ran out the last 30 feet where the
0 696
difficulty eases off. When he got to the
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection,
1997Exceeding
On JulyAbilities
11, atColorado, RockyM.
1145, Shanna Mountain
Ryan National Park
(26) was climbing Backflip (II 5.9), the
first pitch on the Bookmark, when she
took a 20 foot lead fall. She had been
placing protection at the time of the
fall, but suddenly slipped and yelled,
“Falling.” When she swung into the
view of belayer Tye Gribb, Ryan was
0 697
upside down and unresponsive.
 Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out Colorado,
1997 Eldorado
On June Canyon
1, theState Park,
victim Bastille
(28) climbed
about 30 feet up the Bastille Crack,
slipped while making a traverse, and
while falling pulled out his only piece
of protection and consequently hit the
ground.
(Editor’s Note: Protection pulling out—
or simply inadequate protection—is
0 698
very common in this climbing area.)
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Colorado,
1997 Eldorado
Colorado, Canyon State Park,
Eldorado CanyonKloof
State
Park, Kloof
On May 22, the victim (29) was
leading a climb on the route called
Kloof on the west ridge. He was about
30 feet off the ground when he was
unable to complete a move. He fell,
pulling out his only piece of protection.
0 699
Analysis
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Colorado,
1997 Rocky Mountain
Colorado, RockyNational Park, National
Mountain The Book
Park, The Rook
On May 6, at 1900, Jorge Arias (40)
was leading the final pitch of Cheap
Date III, 5.10b, on The Book. Arias fell
20 feet from a point about 50 feet
from the top of the climb and ten feet
from the crux. As he fell, one piece of
0 700
protection pulled out. Arias impacted
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No1997
Hard Hat,Colorado,
Colorado,Boulder
Boulder Canyon,
Canyon, Dome
DomeRock
Rock
On September 25, I was climbing with
a friend in Boulder Canyon on
Gorilla’s Delight (5.9+) on Dome
Rock. We originally intended to climb
in Eldorado Canyon, but it was raining
there and was clear to the north, and
0 701
the granite of Boulder Canyon
Fall on Rock, Rope Severed, Carabiner 1997
Broke, California,
California,Yosemite
YosemiteValley, El Capitan
Valley, El
Capitan
On April 1, Matt Baxter (26), an
experienced big-wall climber, set out
alone to fix the first few pitches of
Zenyatta Mondatta, a difficult multi-
day aid route on El Capitan. The next
morning, after he had failed to return
0 702
home, friends found his body at the
Fall on Rock—Falling Rock, Inadequate1997
Protection, California,
California, SequoiaNational
Sequoia NationalPark,
Park, Devil's Crag #1
Devil’s Crag #1
On September 1, David Dykeman
(64) and Herbert Buehler, members of
the California Mountaineering Club,
were descending from the summit of
Devil’s Crag #1 (12,400+ feet) about
1400. The weather was clear, with
0 703
little or no wind. Just below the
 Fall on Rock—Foothold Came off, Failure1997to TestOn
Hold,
JulyProtection PulledMichael
23, at 10:30, Out Colorado,
Munsch Rocky Mountain
(34) was leading the fourth pitch (5.6)
on the Sykes Sickle route (III 5.9+) on
Spearhead. He climbed 20 feet above
the belay ledge, placed a “marginal”
piece of protection, and continued
another five to ten feet. At this point,
Munsch stepped on a loose rock
0 704
which gave way Munsch fell, the
Fall on Rock—Rappel Anchor Sling Not1997 Tied, Distraction
Colorado, Aspen, Die Hard
On October 12, Jake McNelly (23) set
up a rappel on a short sport climbing
route at a popular cliff called Die
Hard. McNelly had walked around to
the top of the cliff to set up a top-rope
above a half-pitch 5.8 route called
Ain’t Over ’Til It’s Over. Two medium
0 705
sized trees near the lip of the cliff
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Equipment, Climbing
1997 Alone, Colorado,
Colorado, Rocky Rocky Mountain
Mountain National Park, Mount A
National
Park, Mount Alice
On August 29, David Ingersoll (40) left
the Wild Basin Trailhead alone to
check out possible routes on the East
face of Mount Alice. Ingersoll
scrambled part way up the Central
Ramp Route (III 5.7, A2), but decided
0 707
to descend after it began to rain. He
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Protection , Climbing
1997 Unroped,
Alaska, Inexperience, Alaska,
Mount McKinley, Mount McKinley, West B
West
Buttress.
On May 19, “Seven Summits Croatia”
party of two flew into the Kahiltna
Glacier with plans to summit Mt.
McKinley via the Messner Couloir.
They spent one day at 8000 feet, the
third day at 11,000 feet, and the fourth
0 708
at 14,000 feet. At this point they were
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Protection and1997
Belay, HAPE,
Alaska, Frostbite, Alaska, Mount
Mount McKinley, McKinley, South Buttres
South
Buttress
On May 27, Nancy Bluhm (32) of the
“Dancing Fools” expedition was
airlifted by helicopter from the South
Buttress of Mount McKinley after
sustaining injuries from a 75 foot
roped fall. The expedition flew on May
0 709
18 to the Kahiltna Glacier to climb the
Fall on Snow, Unable to Place Protection,
1997
Poor Position,
Colorado,Colorado,
MountMount Powell,
Powell, Northwest Couloir
Northwest
Couloir
On July 6, W. H. (m. 26) and K. D. (f.
30) decided to climb unroped because
of lack of available protection and soft
snow unable to hold snow flukes or
stakes. At the top of the snowfield,
footing gave way, K. D. tumbled down
0 710
1,000 feet of Hourglass Couloir,
 Fall on Snow, Unroped, Poor Position, Colorado,
1997 Mount Sneffles
(Following is a letter from Adam Beal
[early 20’s] to a friend.)
Our plan was to set up a base camp
on Sunday, and then do a technical
ascent of Mount Sneffles on June 24.
The climb up Mount Sneffles (14,000
feet) had us crossing talus, snow, ice
and rock. The climb was easy but
0 711
committing, seven pitches and about
Fall on Snow—Loss of Control—Voluntary 1997 Glissade, Colorado,
Colorado, RockyRocky Mountain
Mountain National Park, Longs Pe
National
Park, Longs Peak
On July 14, at 1045, Nathan Dick (51)
lost control while glissading near the
top of Lamb’s Slide on Longs Peak
shortly after he had completed its
ascent. He slid all the way
(approximately 1,000 feet) down and
0 712
out of control to impact the rocks at
Fall on Wet Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection,
1997 No Hard Hat,
Colorado, Colorado,
Eldorado Eldorado
Canyon Canyon State Park, Ru
State
Park, Ruper
On May 27, the victim (29) was
leading Ruper when he fell. In his own
words: “Water was seeping over the
saddle, covering most of the last
pitch. I tried to skirt the water (off-
route) but ran out of real estate. While
0 713
traversing the wet section, I slipped
Falling Rock, Stranded, Alaska, Alaska 1997
Range, Coffee Glacier,
Alaska, Alaska Eyetooth
Range, Coffee Glacier,
Eyetooth
On June 15, JJ Brooks (33) was hit by
fragments from a large falling rock
that had separated from the main rock
face. The falling rock had also cut his
climbing rope, stranding him and his
partner, Carl Tobin, four pitches up.
1 714
They established verbal contact.
Falling Rock—Overcrowded, Poor Position,
1997 Colorado, Eldorado
Colorado, Canyon
Eldorado State Park,
Canyon Red Garden Wall
State
Park, Red Garden Wall
On September 29, a climber (30) was
recording the first pitch of Rewritten
when a rock was knocked loose by a
party higher up on the route. The rock
struck and fractured her right forearm.
(Source: J. W. Wilder, Park Ranger)
0 715
(Editor’s Note: On the weekends in
Faulty Use of Crampon—Fall on Snow,1997 Alaska, Mount
Alaska,McKinley
this park,Mount McKinley
it is typical to see 50 to 100
The Spanish expedition
climbers in clusters of ten “Lleida
to twenty on
McKinley ’96” had
the popular routes.) eleven climbers in
the group, including Juanjo Garra
(32). They began their ascent of the
West Buttress on May 19. On June 1
at 1300, while ascending above
Denali Pass, Juanjo Garra lost a
0 716
crampon causing him to fall. During
 Dennis’s quick thinking in creating a
hip belay may have kept Shannon
from falling the full 70 feet, but there
was a risk of losing control altogether,
especially if he had not clipped the
HACE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West1997 Buttress rope
Alaska,intoMount
a carabiner on his
McKinley, Westharness.
If he had
Buttress put Shannon on belay with
their second rope (or
On June 12, Ka Eui-Ryong of the with the unused
90 feet of
Korean lead Club
Alpine rope)Su while
Won she
climbed and lowered,
Expedition, was unable to stand orshe would have
fallen only 20assistance.
walk without feet plus rope stretch.
Eui-Ryong
Their second from
was lowered rope the was17,200
useful foot
after
the
camp,fall.toDennis
the 14,200 was able to reach
foot NPS Ranger
0 717 Shannon
Camp on with it andButtress.
the West to provide a line
Eui-
Inadequate Food and Fuel, Failure to Turn
1997
Back, Inexperience,
Alaska,
for the firstMount Alaska,
ranger toMount
Foraker arriveForaker
(enabling
On
himApril
to radio1, Mitch Ward and
information Randy
needed by
Adrian’s
the rescue “Ice Skids”
team andExpedition
the medical
departed
clinic). from had
Dennis Talkeetna to the north
been trained in first
side but
aid, of Denali
neitherNational
of themPark. They
had discussed
were
or dropped
practiced off bytechniques,
rescue K-2 Aviationand on a
remote knew
neither frozenhow lakeorlocated
where north
to getof
the Swift
help. Could Fork River,have
Dennis approximately
gotten his
0 718
two miles
partner to outside of the Denali
a comfortable spot if Park
no one
Protection Pulled Out, Fall on Rock, No1997
Hard Hat, California, Tuolumne Meadows, Stately Pleasure Dome
else were around?
Finally, like Stephen Ross and Joe
Presuto (see below), Shannon might
have prevented her head injury by
wearing a helmet. (Source: Martin
Ziebell, John Dill, NPS Rangers,
Yosemite National Park)
0 719
Rappel Anchor Failure—Inadequate Knot 1997
and Protection,
On AugustFall11
on around
Rock, Haste,
1100,Inexperience,
our party Slight Hango
of four climbers in two groups
proceeded up the route “The
Uneventful” (5.5) at Tahquitz Rock.
We did not plan to summit, only
rappel down after completing four
pitches. I led the first group up three
pitches with no problems. The day
0 720
was warm, so I decided to remove my
Rappel Error, Inadequate Clothing, Hypothermia,
1997 Weather, California,
California, TuolumneTuolome
Meadows,Meadows, Pywiack Dome
Pywiack Dome
On July 23, a powerful thunderstorm
swept through Tuolumne Meadows in
the early afternoon. My partner and I
raced to the top of our route,
simulclimbing the last two pitches as
the storm bore down on Tenaya Lake.
0 721
As we reached pavement, the storm
Rappel Error—Did Not Secure Rappel Anchor
1997 Sling, Colorado,
Colorado, Eldorado
Eldorado CanyonState
Canyon State Park
Park
On May 6, after belaying his partners
down a 20 to 30 foot cliff, the victim
(39) fell about 30 feet while rappelling.
A Ranger found a red sling girth
hitched around a tree with no knot in
it. Apparently the victim placed the red
0 722
sling around the tree and added a
 prone to snow avalanches. Authorities
are unsure if the hikers created the
avalanche themselves, or if they just
happened to be in its path. Cassan
was discovered in an area just a
Rappel Error—Only Connected to One 1997 couple
Strand of Rappel ofAnchorage,
Alaska,Rope, hundred
Alaska,feet fromCreek
Anchorage,
Hunter whereHunter Creek
rescuer Albert Dow
On January 21, Evan Blanchard was killed in a
(20)
similar avalanche
had climbed to the14 topwinters
of a 150 ago.foot
U. S. Forest
frozen Service
waterfall, and snow
then he ranger
and his
Brad
two partners looped their ropealerting
Ray said warning signs around
hikers
a tree atto the
the top
highinavalanche
preparation danger
for a
were
rappel. posted
The two at the basehad
friends of the failed to
mountain
thread both at strands
the Appalachian
through his
0 723 Mountain
rappelling Club’s
device.Pinkham
With justNotch one end of
Rappel Error—Only Connected to One 1997
Strand of Rappel
Visitor Rope,
Arizona, OakAlaska,
Center, Creek Anchorage,
Canyon
and along the trail. Hunter Creek
On April 13, Benjamin Rusev
Additionally, signs warning hikers that (19) fell
75 feet
the downHead
old Lion a cliffTrail
in OakhadCreekbeen
Canyon.
closed At the time,were
permanently he was also in
attempting
place. Forest to service
rappel. Rusevs
snow rangers partner
tried toJoosen
Chris grab the andlineBradafterRayRusevboth
began falling.
responded to the scene immediately.
Many other
Joosen waspeople
first to were
arriveclimbing
and he in
0 724
the area—one
spotted Cassan’s of the
hand most popular
sticking out of
Stranded, Inadequate Clothing and Equipment,
1997 Weather, California,
California,
climbing Yosemite
spots Yosemite
near Valley,Valley,
Flagstaff—whenEl El Capitan
the snow-covered slope.
Capitan
Rusev fell. (The overlook is about
Analysis
On May 16, 1996, the National Park
The French-speaking Quebec hikers,
Service rescued Austrian climbers
who had some winter hiking
Christian Zenz (22) and Christian
experience, may have misunderstood
Wassertheurer (27) from The Shield
the warning signs, said Rebecca
on El Capitan, after the pair had been
Oreskes, a public information
exposed to a storm without a fly for
0 725 specialist for the U. S. Forest Service.
their portaledge.
Stranded, Unable to Route-Find, Inadequate Nonetheless,
1997 Clothing and Equipment,
Colorado, Rockythe Mountain
hikers
Weather, hadNational
been
Darkness, Exceeding Abil
advised by
Park, The Book AMC personnel in the area
not to attempt
On July 28, Jamesthe hike up the
Griffith (31), Adam
mountain
Seelig (24) and Erv Wolfonwere
as conditions the summit
were
benighted and stranded 10033feet
extreme—with minus degree
from
temperatures and 100
the top of The Book formation on mile per hour
winds—and
Lumpy Ridge. theThey
avalanche
had been danger on
the mountain’s
attempting the Jlower
Crack slopes
(IV 5.10) verybut
high.
1 726 The
wereLion Head
unable to winter
figure out trail,thelong a
Cave
Unknown, Climbing Unroped, Placed No 1997
Protection, Failure
Alaska,
favorite of to
Mount Turn
winter Back, Weather,
McKinley,
climbers West
on Mount Alaska, Mount McKi
Buttress
Washington, was closed by the Forest
On Junetwo
Service 2, Karl
months Jendryschik
ago afterand a late
Jurgen Bruhm of
autumn landslide created the German increased
expedition
winter Saxonia
avalanche 96,along
risks were the
separated
route. Lastfrom
month eachtheother
Forest atService
Denali
Pass. At 2252
established Jendryschik
a new alternatecontacted
route up
an NPS
the patrol This
mountain. at 17,000 feet and
new route, told
while
0 727
them histhan
steeper partner
the Bruhm
Lion Head did winter
not make
Avalanche, Failure to Follow Directions—Warning
1997 Notices, Inexperience, New Hampshire, Mount Washi
trail, is signed and open for winter
hiking use. (Source: From an article
by Mike Dickerman in The Courier,
Littleton, NH, January 10, 1996)
(Editor’s Note: Had Cassan’s partners
done a hasty search before going for
help, they might have seen his
0 728 hand. ...
 Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
1997 Oregon, SmithSmith
Oregon, Rock State
RockPark,
StateMonkey
Park, Face Spire
Monkey Face Spire
On May 22, Terry Mitchell (22) a
Willamette University student and
climbing instructor, set out to free-
climb, without the aid of ropes or
safety devices. With him were two
other experienced climbers, Mike W.
0 729
Heald (22), also an instructor, and Miri
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, No Hard
1997Hat, North
NorthCarolina,
Carolina,Whitesides
WhitesidesMountain, New Diversions
Mountain,
New Diversions
Labor Day was the date that my
climbing partner, Todd (29), and I (41)
had set to finally climb Whitesides
Mountain. About a month’s worth of
planning had gone into our climb. We
had selected the route, New
0 731
Diversions (5.10), and were looking
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, New
1997
Hampshire,
New Cathedral
Hampshire,Ledge, Book ofLedge,
Cathedral Solemnity
Rook of Solemnity
On August 15, a husband and wife
team were climbing The Book of
Solemnity on Cathedral. The leader
crossed the crux traverse (5.9+) in the
second lead without placing
protection. He belayed at the end of
0 732
the traverse at the trees on Upper
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Oregon,
1997 Columbia
Oregon,River Gorge, Broughton
Columbia Bluff
River Gorge,
Broughton Bluff
On May 28, Kurt Gierlich (42) fell 60
feet to the ground from a route on
Broughton Bluff. Someone with a
portable phone called 911, and a
rescue followed. Twelve rescuers
spent an hour lowering him 500 feet
0 733
to a point where a Life Flight
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Protection
1997 Pulled Out, 23,
On June Exceeding
Carlos Abilities NewJane
Abad (26), Mexico, Sandia Mou
Tennessen (33), and Glen Tietgen
(35), fell 816 feet from Muralla
Grande, a massive face of granite
east of Albuquerque. They were
ascending a route called Warpy
Moople (III, 5.9), a climb with eight
pitches. The route is clean, with solid
0 734
crack and face climbing.
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection—Anchor
1997 Sling Knot,
North North Carolina,
Carolina, Stone Mountain,
Stone Mountain, The The Great Arc
Great Arch
On May 25, I was climbing at Stone
Mountain, NC. Hoping to do some
sport climbing (I read that the routes
were sparsely bolted) I brought only a
limited rack. I climbed the first pitch on
the entrance to “The Great Arch” and
0 735
prepared to set up a top-rope so that
 had succumbed. She had sustained a
massive basilar skull injury.
Analysis
The victim had been climbing for ten
years, but had just started leading this
Fall on Rock, Inexperience, New York, 1997
Shawangunks,
New Shockley's
year. York,
She was Ceiling
Shawangunks,
described Shockley’s
as able to
Ceiling5.10, but had limited leading
follow
On September
experience. The6,guidebook
1996, Robyn advises
Williams
taking (19)gear
large andtoI—Sean
protectHartman
the last
(21)—were
two pitches.climbing
She maythe notclassic climb
have had
Shockley’s Ceiling (5.6) at
adequate gear to protect, though the Gunks.
Isince
had been climbing
the guides tookforher
about
rack,six
we
months, and Robyn had
have no idea what she had. Thattaken a she
0 736
NOLS
was notcourse
wearingwhich involved
a helmet climbing
obviously
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection,
1997Protection Pulled Out, No Hard Hat, Miscommunication, Nev
led to her fatal injury.
Request: If you come across an
accident like this, don’t remove gear if
at all possible. Leave it for the SAR
team. Removing evidence from the
scene makes analysis very difficult.
(Source: Russell Peterson, SAR
0 737 Officer, LVMPD)
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inadequate
1997 Protection, West Seneca
West Virginia, Virginia,Rocks,
Seneca Prune
Rocks, Prune
John Markwell, owner of the
Gendarme Climbing Shop at Seneca
Rocks, reported that there had only
been one severe accident there this
year. On the second pitch of Prune,
there is a stance just below a finger
crack, where most climbers place
0 738
protection, and then two or three
Fall on Rock—Hand Hold Came Off, Inadequate
1997 Protection, Off
Wyoming, Route,
Grant Wyoming,
Tetons, Grand Tetons, Symme
Symmetry
Spire
On July 14, Chris Schroeder (34) and
his partner Ronald Fleck were
attempting an ascent of the
Southwest Ridge of Symmetry Spire
(II 5.7). Schroeder was leading the
second pitch and believes that he was
0 739
off the regular route. He had placed a
Fall on Snow—Crampon Point Caught in 1997
Pants, No Hard Hat,Mount
Wyoming, Climbing
Owen,Alone, Wyoming, Mount Owen, K
Koven
Couloir
At 1300 on August 2, Randy
Huskinson (46) was descending the
Koven Couloir following a successful
ascent of the East Ridge of Mount
Owen. He had soloed the route and
was alone when he fell approximately
0 741
500 feet on snow to the base of the
Fall on Snow—Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing
1997 Unroped,
Montana, Inadequate Boots andPark,
Glacier National Crampons, Inexperience,
Mount Jackson
On January 8, Kyle Borchert (20),
Shad O’Neel (22) and Taggart
Schubert (25) obtained a five-day
backcountry permit for a winter trip
into the Lake Ellen Wilson area, via
the Sperry Trail, of Glacier National
0 742
Park. They completed the voluntary
 was secured to a rope and raised to a
ledge connecting to the Upper Saddle
using a Z-rig pulley system. The
operation was repeated for Parsons
and Culbreath. At 1645 all personnel
Falling Rock, Washington, Guye Peak 1997 arrived at theGuye
Washington, UpperPeakSaddle. Inman
and Parsons were
On June 1, while climbingthen escorted
on the by
rescue personnel to the Lower
lower part of the south section of Saddle
and arrived at 1800. Being quite
Guye Peak’s West Face, Kristin Beerli
exhausted,
was struck and theyinjured
opted to byspend
a largean
additional
(about 100night at their
pounds) rockcamp
slab onthatthe
Middle Tetonwhile
came loose Moraine,
she was500being
feet below
top
the LowerSeattle
belayed. Saddle. Mountain Rescue
0 743 Analysis
personnel responded, and a MAST
Rappel Anchor Failure, Inadequate Protection,
1997 Fall on Rock,
Washington,
While Washington,
Mountthe
descending Mount Teton
Thompson
Grand Thompson in
On
the late afternoon, Inman and and
September 17, John Cain
Dale Ramquist
Parsons climbed
had become Mount
disoriented.
Thompson
Instead via the West
of rappelling downRidge.
the
Instead ofroute,
“normal” goingwhich
downendsthe East
at theRidge,
the normal
Upper descent
Saddle, they route, they
ventured tooopted
far to
to descend
the north, andby rappelled
rappellinginto
theirthe
ascent
Great
route.Chimney
West They reportedly had a Teton.
of the Grand
0 745
disagreement
When about the
they attempted to quality of rope
pull their
Rappel Error—Rope Jammed, Stranded,1997 Off Route, Wyoming, Grand Tetons, Black Ice Couloir
down to them to continue their
descent, the rope became jammed.
They were subsequently forced to
spend the night at the location since
they were unable to contact any other
climbers until the next morning.
(Source: George Montopoli, Park
1 746 Ranger)
Rock Dislodged—Causing Fall on Rock, 1997
Wyoming, Devil's Tower
Wyoming, Devil’sNational
Tower Monument
National
Monument
On August 20 at 1445, Jeff Pettenger
(21) was leading a variation of the
Bailey Direct finish to the Durrance
Route when he fell approximately 100
feet, receiving fatal head injuries.
Jeff’s father, Noel Pettenger,
0 747
summoned help from other climbers.
Slip on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Inexperience,
1997 Wyoming,Grand
Wyoming, GrandTetons,
Tetons, Middle
Middle Teton
Teton
Around 1700 on August 1 in the South
Fork of Garnet Canyon, Carrissa
Johnson (18) was injured when she
slipped on snow while descending
from the Southwest Couloir of the
Middle Teton. She was with a party of
0 748
nine other Coulter Bay employees,
Snow Bridge Collapse, Unroped, Wyoming,1997 WindWyoming,
River Range,
Wind Gannett
RiverPeak
Range, Gannett
Peak
On August 16, about 1420, Bob
Farley and his partner Tony were
descending the Gooseneck route of
Gannett Peak when the snow bridge
leading from the upper snowfields of
the route onto the Gooseneck Glacier
0 749
collapsed under Bob’s weight. He fell
 Palgong party ascended from 17,200
feet on the West Buttress to provide
assistance. Once they reached Il, they
were able to determine that he could
descend with their assistance. At
Stranded, Party Separated—Off Route, 1997
Late Start,0340,
Inexperience,
Wyoming,they GrandWyoming,
radioedTetons, Grand
out this Grand Tetons, Grand Teton
Teton
information and that no rescue was
On August
needed. 14 at 2230,safely
Il descended rangers attheir
with the
Lower Saddle hut were contacted by
support.
Chris
AnalysisRiha (39), Rosa Kanning (24),
and John
Here’s a goodMurphy (23) who
example indicated
of team effort
that two of their party, Jason
and self-sufficiency. With a little Osder
(22) and Margaret
prompting, Knight
the rescue pair(22),
was were
more
1 751
lost.
than willing to climb up through the
AMS — No Incident, Alaska, Mount McKinley,
1998 West Buttress
cold hours of the evening to help a
team member. In so many other
rescues, climbers either give up or
assume they will be rescued. It was a
relief to see this Korean party work
together to assist their ill person
down. (Source: Roger Robinson,
0 753 Mountaineering Ranger)
Avalanche, Fall Into Crevasse, Poor Position,
1998 Weather,
BritishInadequate
Columbia,Preparation,
Mount Robson British Columbia, Mount R
A party of three (Party One) and a
party of two (Party Two) were
climbing Mount Robson via the Kain
route on July 9. They set up camp in
whiteout conditions, knowingly in an
icefall area, but uncertain as to their
exact location. The campsite was in a
0 754
heavily crevassed area below seracs.
Avalanche, Warm Weather, Alaska, Mount1998Hunter, Moonflower
Alaska, MountButtress
Hunter, Moonflower
Buttress
On June 6, at 1700, Allan Kearney
and Steve Mascioli (38) were climbing
during a warm weather spell on the
North Buttress Moonflower route of
Mount Hunter. Allan was leading the
17th pitch of this technically
0 755
demanding climb with Steve Mascioli
Equipment Failure — Ascenders Came 1998Off Rope,California,
Fall on Rock, Inadequate
Yosemite Self-Belay,
Valley, El California, Yosem
Capitan
On May 27, Robert Jatkowski (30)
was cleaning pitch 28 of the Shield,
while his partner, Uwe Reissland (38)
waited at the belay above.
After finishing a long left-facing
vertical corner, Jatkowski reached a
0 756
Lost Arrow pi- ton about one meter
Equipment Failure — Homemade Rivet1998 Hanger, Fall on Rock,
California,
below California,
Yosemite
a roof. From the Yosemite
Valley, El Valley,
Lost Arrow the El Capitan
Capitan
On May 29, at 1430, Canadian
climber John Chilton (36) started
leading the A1 rivet ladder on pitch 24
of the Shield, heading for
Chickenhead Ledge. At about the fifth
rivet, he placed a homemade rivet
0 757
hanger (a swagged loop of cable),
 Fall Into Moat, Climbing Unroped, Poor1998Position,Québec,
Inexperience,
SaintQuebec,
RaymondSaintdeRaymond
Portneuf,de Portneuf, Dela
Delaney Falls
On January 13, E.F. and E.L. had just
finished climbing La Transparente, a
150m waterfall climb on Delaney Falls
near St. Raymond de Portneuf. They
had both reached the top of the falls
by about 1210, and where an easy
0 758
slope continued upward for another
Fall Into Moat, Falling Rock, Weather, 1998
British Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier
British Columbia, Provincial
Bugaboo GlacierPark, Bugaboo Spir
Provincial Park, Bugaboo Spire
In August, S.A. and B.C. approached
the east face of Bugaboo Spire,
intending to climb the Left-Hand Herr
route. They ascended a snow apron
below the face, crossed a
bergschrund, and reached a moat,
0 759
which was the final obstacle before
Fall Into River, British Columbia, Jasper1998
NationalBritish
Park, North Boundary
Columbia, TrailNational
Jasper Hike
Park, North Boundary Trail Hike
D.H. and S.K. (from Germany) were
hiking the north boundary trail of
Jasper National Park. The summer
had been extremely rainy and the
rivers were all in flood. On July 12,
they had crossed over Snake Indian
0 760
Pass and were heading down valley
Fall on Ice, Darkness, Inadequate Tie-In1998
at Anchors, Alberta,
Alberta, Maligne
Maligne Canyon
Canyon
On March 18 at 2030, a party of three
climbers were top- roping a waterfall
in Maligne Canyon in Jasper National
Park. One of the climbers was
experienced, a second was
intermediate, and the third was
novice. The fact that they were
0 761
climbing in the dark was intentional on
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Alberta,
1998MountAlberta,
Rundle,Mount
The Professor
Rundle,Falls
The Professor
Falls
On November 23, R.R. was leading
the second pitch of this popular Grade
III, WI4 route. About twenty feet up
the second pitch, he placed his
second screw but did not like the
placement. He then placed a third
0 762
screw to back it up, clipped it and then
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Climbing
1998 Alone, Alberta,
Alberta, WatertonNational
Waterton NationalPark,
Park, Expert's Choice
Expert’s Choice
On February 10, a middle-aged male
was attempting a solo ascent of the
lower left pitch of Expert's Choice
(WI4). He apparently was dragging a
rope and performing a selfbelay of
some fashion when he fell about 20
0 763
meters, pulling out a number of
 Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Self-Belay
1998 Failure, Alberta, Kananaskis
On November 23, S.M. Valley,
(21) andKidd
a Falls
partner set off to climb the big
waterfall below Mount Kidd's
Gunbarrel Gully above Galatea
Creek, obvious from Kananaskis
Highway 40 south of the mountain.
Early in the day, S.M. was leading
high above his belay, when he
0 764
stopped to place a screw for
Fall on Rock – Rock Dislodged, Climbing 1998
Unroped, Alberta,
Alberta, Mount
Mount Neptuak
Neptuak
On August 10, a party of two were
ascending the normal Northwest
Ridge route on Mount Neptuak. The
route is mostly loose 3rd and 4th
Class, but is an exposed ridge on
certain sections. While climbing a
short, easy 5th Class step unroped,
0 765
N.T. dislodged a hold, causing him to
Fall on Rock — Hand Hold Came Off, Off 1998Route,Alberta,
Alberta,Castle
Castle Mountain,
Mountain,Goat
GoatPlateau Approach
Plateau Approach
On July 15, a party of two climbers
scrambled up the standard approach
for the Castle Mountain bivi hut.
During the approach, they lost the
rough trail and ended up off route in a
series of cliff bands and gullies. The
0 766
climbers were aware that they were
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, Inadequate
1998 Protection,
Alberta,Belay Failure, Peak
Chinaman’s Alberta, Chinaman's Peak
On August 22, B.P. (20) and M.K.
attempted to climb the usual
Northeast Face of Chinaman's Peak
when something went wrong,
probably on the third or fourth pitch,
and they both fell to their deaths.
The climbers were reported overdue
0 767
by a friend of B.P. the next day, and a
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, Protection
1998 Pulled Out, Inadequate
California,
helicopter Protection,
Yosemite,
search of areaCalifornia,
Lembert
the Dome Yosemite, Lem
revealed
Itheir
climbed a 5.9 variant of a 5.6 route. I
bodies at the base of the climb.
went over the crux successfully, but
ran out too far right on 5.6 slope. I
place two nuts in marginal cracks. I
got to the top of the ledge, then fell
and rolled down. I broke a leg and
foot.
0 768
Analysis
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, California,
1998 Yosemite,
California,Half Dome Half Dome
Yosemite,
On July 5, Kibum Lee, Ken Park and I
(Jaenam Coe - 35) started a two-day
ascent of the Regular Northwest Face
of Half-Dome (VI 5.9 A2). Lee, the
leader and most experienced
member, had climbed several routes
on El Capitan and was going to lead
0 769
all the pitches. I was the least
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Exceeding
1998 Abilities,
Alberta,Off Route, Alberta,
Chinaman’s PeakChinaman's Peak
On June 28, Allan J. (30) was leading
pitch eight of the Northeast Face
route (450m, 5.6) on Chinaman’s
Peak about 1300. He tried to go
straight up from the belay instead of
following the normal route, which
would have seen him traverse up and
0 770
right around a comer. The climbing
Fall On Rock, Inadequate Protection, Quebec,
1998 Mount Saint Hilaire,
Québec, DameHilaire,
Mount Saint Noire Route
Dame
Noire Route
On May 31, M.L. (33), with six years
of climbing experience, and C.M.
were attempting Dame Noire (5.8).
M.L. was leading in a dihedral, six
meters above his second and last
placement, and placing protection in a
0 771
crack system, when his right foot
Fall on Rock, No Helmet, Inadequate Protection,
1998 Exceeding Abilities, Inexperience,
Alberta, Kananaskis Alberta, Kananaskis V
Valley, Barrier
Bluffs
Late in the afternoon of July 6, Justin
W. (21) was top-roping The Wasp, a
5.9 route, on the Yellow Wall when he
took a ten-meter fall. He was not
wearing a helmet and suffered an
open wound to the head. His sister,
0 772
who was at the site, reported the
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No1998
Hardhat, California,
California, Yosemite
YosemiteValley,
Valley,Middle
MiddleCathedral Rock
Cathedral Rock
On June 16, around 1330, Tyler
Gregory (18) started up Pee Pee
Pillar, a one-pitch, 5.10a thin crack,
belayed by Casey Hyer (19). He
scrambled 10 feet up to a ledge,
climbed another foot or two, then
0 773
placed a TCU at arms reach and
Fall on Rock, Rope Parted – Friction Device,
1998 Northwest Territories,
Northwest BaffinBaffin
Territories, Island,Island,
Mount Thor
Mount Thor
In mid-July A.G. (30) began a solo
attempt on a new route on the 3800-
foot granite west face. The lower two
thirds of the face are vertical and the
upper third is overhanging with an
average angle of 105 degrees.
0 774
Another party of two climbers was
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, 1998
InadequateAlaska,
Protection, Poor Position,
Ptarmigan Inexperience, Alaska, Ptarmi
Peak, Chugach
State Park
On June 29, two instructors and their
twelve students in a University of
Alaska, Anchorage, Alaska
Wilderness Studies 105 Class—
Beginning Mountaineering—fell 2,000
feet down the North Couloir of
0 775
Ptarmigan Peak in the Chugach
 Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped, Alberta,
1998MountAlberta,
Temple,Mount
Greenwood/Locke
Temple, Route
Greenwood/Locke Route
On August 20, a party of two
attempted the Greenwood/Locke
Route (V, 5.9 A1). The two got a
predawn start and reached the rock
pitches above the upper icefield in
good time. The pitches were very wet
0 776
and they decided to retreat. They
Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped, Failure1998
to Follow Instructions,
British Columbia,British
MountColumbia, Mount Revelstoke Nat
Revelstoke
National Park, Mount Macbeth
On June 29, a relatively experienced
climber, upon reaching the summit of
Mount Macbeth, unroped and fell
through the cornice. His body was
recovered by heli-sling the following
day approximately 330 meters below.
0 777
Analysis
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Protection, Faulty
1998 Use of Crampons,
Alberta, MountAlberta, Mount Andromeda
Andromeda
Two climbers had ascended Mount
Andromeda and were descending via
the Andromeda- Athabasca Col on
July 31. Both climbers jumped across
the bergschrund with crampons on.
On the landing, one of the climbers
caught her crampon and broke her
0 778
ankle. The team was able to descend
Fall on Snow, Pneumothorax, Alaska, Mount
1998 McKinley,
Alaska,Karsten's Ridge
Mount McKinley, Karstens’
Ridge
Jonathan Giesen’s (25) accident
happened July 5 at 2200. We
summitted the previous day (July 4),
arriving back at high camp at 1850.
We slept in on the morning of the fifth,
relaxed, and prepared to go on a
0 779
“night schedule” for our descent. We
Falling Rock — Pulling Rappel Rope Down,
1998 PoorBritish
Position, British Columbia,
Columbia, BugabooBugaboo
Glacier Glacier Provincial
Provincial Park, Snowpatch Spire
In August, a party of three climbers
had completed the final rappel after
climbing the Kraus-McCarthy route on
Snowpatch Spire, and were standing
at the base while the rope was pulled
down. The rope dislodged a rock the
0 780
size of a grapefruit, and A.B. was
Falling Rock, Weather, British Columbia,
1998
Bugaboo Glacier
British ProvincialBugaboo
Columbia, Park, Bugaboo
Glacier— Snowpatch Col
Provincial Park, Bugaboo—
Snowpatch Col
A party of three, N.G., J.G., and G.W.,
was ascending to the Bugaboo-
Snowpatch Col using a rope at 0800
on August 4. A boulder slid down the
slope above them with almost no
0 781
warning, glanced off G.W. and struck
 Frostbite, Weather, Alaska, Mount McKinley,
1998 Muldrow
Alaska,Glacier
Mount McKinley, Muldrow
Glacier
On June 4, at 1130, Wendt Andreas
(34) of the High Dreams expedition
checked in at the 14,000 foot Ranger
Camp. Andreas had frozen all his
fingers on both hands. His
companions Mario Bornschein and
0 782
Holger Kloss also sustained first
Frostbite, Weather, Alaska, Mount McKinley,
1998 West Buttress
Alaska, Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
On May 31, a guided group of five
clients led by Blaine Smith and Willy
Peabody of Alaska Denali Guiding,
was forced to spend the night out in a
storm at 19,000 feet on
Mount McKinley. Due to this
0 783
emergency bivouac four of the clients
HACE, Inadequate Communication — Client
1998 to Guide,
Alaska,Alaska,
suffered MountMount
second, McKinley,
McKinley,
third, West
and West Buttress
fourth
Buttress
degree frostbite on hands, feet and
An Alaska Denali Guiding Party led by
Blaine Smith took ten days to reach
the 14,200 foot camp on the West
Buttress of Mount McKinley arriving
May 23. Jack Miller (45), a client in
the party, experienced Acute
0 784
Mountain Sickness his third night at
HACE, Party Separated, Failure to Turn1998
Back, Alaska, Mount
Alaska, McKinley,
Mount West
McKinley, Buttress
West
Buttress
Throughout the day on June 17,
several expeditions passed Hiroyaki
Hoshino (36) and his companions,
between 18,000 feet and 19,700 feet.
Everyone who passed Hoshino and
was later interviewed said that
0 785
Hoshino looked exhausted and shaky.
Inadequate Water, Fatigue, Loss of Gear,
1998
Unable California,
to Continue Yosemite
Climbing, Valley,
California,
El Yosemite Valley, El C
Capitan
On July 3, Japanese climber Hideki
Inaba (33) began a solo climb of
Cosmos (VI 5.9 A4). He had chosen it
because he thought it was a beautiful
line, a bit harder than he’d climbed to
date, and he wanted to climb alone
0 786
with little chance of meeting another
Lightning, British Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier
1998 Provincial Park, Snowpatch
British Columbia, SpireGlacier
Bugaboo
Provincial Park, Snowpatch Spire
A.B. and B.A. were descending the
Kraus-McCarthy rappel route in
August when an electrical storm
developed. Lightning struck the top of
the Spire when they were about four
rope lengths down the route. A.B. was
0 787
rappelling, and part of the charge
 including the Nose on El Capitan, a
route on Half Dome, and several other
Yosemite routes. Both of his partners
were competent climbers. We have
no explanation for the Camalot failure,
Lost, Climbing Alone, Hypothermia, Weather,
1998 Inadequate
Alberta, Equipment, Alberta, Mount
Columbia Icefield, Columbia Icefield, Mount
unless a) Dular was satisfied with a
Athabasca
marginal placement, or b) he
On Sept. 26, a lone climber took out a
inadvertently grabbed its trigger and
safety registration for a climb of Mount
released it. This is possible even with
Athabasca, with a return time of 1200
all of his weight on the device, though
the next day indicated, although the
more likely if his weight were partially
climber had no intention of over-
supported by his feet on the rock.
nighting on the mountain. He was
0 788 A properly placed camming device
experienced, and successfully
Off Route, Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest,
1998 should not fail under
No Belay/Protection,
Alaska, Mount the
Alaska,
McKinley, WestMount McKinley, West B
circumstances
Buttress described by Sulich.
While
At 0800 weon have
Mayno 29,direct evidence,
the “British the
Army
most likely explanation is
Expedition” departed the 17,200 footthat Dular
made
camp withtwo inadequate
three members: placements.
Dr. Martin
This is hard to understand,
Kitson, Paul Holmes, and expedition however,
because
leader Mark Trevillyan (20s). he
he was competent,
seemed
Expedition cautious
member and aware of
Matthew the
Yorke
0 789 need for adequate protection, solid
stayed in camp deciding not to
Overdue, Fatigue, Inadequate Equipment,
1998
Darkness, Alberta,
Alberta,
placements Murchison
Murchison Falls and he
Falls
were available,
Three ice climbers
could visually inspect eachset out toone.
climb
Murchison Falls (180m,
Should Dular have placed his firstV, WI4) at
1000, March 27, and were at
protection below the top of the pillar? the base
of the first pitch at noon.
Climbers say that the placements One of the
climbers
there arewas poorilland
andthereturned
climbing to the
easy
highway, leaving the other
and secure, so they wait to place two to
complete
good the climb.
protection above Theytheagreed
pillar. to
0 790
meet at the
However, thevehicle after
fact that thethe climb, but
landing
Protection Came Out — Fall on Rock, California,
1998 Yosemite Valley, Cookie Cliff
spot is well below the belay means
that the first protection must guard
against a serious ground-fall.
Dular was not wearing a helmet. It
might not have saved his life, but
certainly would have increased his
chances. (Source: John Dill, NPS
0 791 Ranger, Yosemite National Park)
Rappel Error — Inadequate Anchor, Alberta,
1998 BowAlberta,
Falls Bow Falls
On Feb. 23 around noon, a party of
three were starting the descent of this
Grade III, WI4 route. F.B. lowered J.P.
and D.P. from a three-screw anchor.
F.B. then proceeded to rappel from a
single Simond 23-cm screw. The rope
was draped over the head of the
0 792
screw with the eye pointing up. A
Rappel Error — Inadequate Protection, 1998
Alberta, Rocky Mountains,
Alberta, Mount Murchison,
Rocky Mountains, Mount Murchison Falls
Murchison, Murchison Falls
On November 23, a party of two were
beginning the rappel descent of this
waterfall route (180m, V, WI4). On
their third rappel, the first climber got
part way down the ropes, yelled, and
fell down a few hundred feet to the
0 793
bottom of the route. His partner (along
 Rappel Error — Inadequate Use of Equipment,
1998 Alberta, Smith-Dorrien
Alberta, Smith-DorrienValley, Ranger
Valley, Creek
Ranger
Creek
At 1630 on November 9, authorities at
Peter Lougheed Provincial Park
received a radio call from M.P., who
was at the scene of a rappelling
accident on an ice climb on Mount
Murray.
0 794
After a day of top-roping from a
Rappel Error — Rope Ends Uneven, Fall 1998
on Rock,Arizona,
No HardOak
substantial Hat, Arizona,
Flats
anchor Oak
on an iceFlats
smear to
On April 6, following a bouldering
the north of the R&D route in Ranger
contest in the(36)
Creek, M.D. area, Paul
had (25) and
removed thehis
climbing partner (24) went for a climb
about a half mile from the primary
bouldering area, where there is some
quality granite. Paul had just
completed following a single pitch 5.9
0 795
route and was preparing to rappel. He
Rappel Error — Rope Tangled, Stranded,1998
Inexperience, Darkness,
Alabama, PelhamInadequate Equipment — No Head Lam
On March 2, Chad Lovelady (23) and
Eric Langwager (17) decided they
would go rappelling that evening on
rocks behind the building where they
work. Around 9:00 pm, Chad began
the first rappel. About mid-way down,
he noticed an overhand knot in the
0 796
line. Rather than remove it, he forced
Rockfall, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade
1998 Waterfall
Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade
Waterfall
On Feb. 20, after a successful ascent
of this waterfall (III, WI3), a party of
three were setting up to rappel the
route. A large rock (estimated at 50 to
80 lbs) came from above and hit one
member in the head. He was wearing
0 797
a helmet. He was knocked
Slip on Ice, Faulty Use of Crampons, Climbing
1998 Unroped, Alberta,20,
On November Smith-Dorrien Valley,
L.S. (24) and a French Creek
partner climbed an ice flow above
French Creek on the east flank of
Mount Burstall, about thirty minutes
from the trailhead, and then
proceeded to descend shortly before
1300.
While rappelling from the top to an icy
0 798
ledge, one of L.S.'s crampons came
Stranded Due to Shoulder Dislocation, Alberta,
1998 Mount Louis
Alberta,
off. Once Mount
on theLouis
ledge, the climbers
On August 10, G.G.and
decided to traverse andthen
G.B. were
beginning the exit pitches on the
summit tower of Mount Louis. They
were attempting the classic Perren
Variation (5.7). While starting to lead
the first pitch, G.G. dislocated his
shoulder and backed off the pitch. He
0 799
was able to relocate the shoulder, but
 Stranded — Forgot to Untie Safety Knot1998 in RappelCalifornia,
Rope — Jammed in Anchor,
Yosemite Stranded, California, Yos
Valley, El
Capitan
On July 3 Chris Donharl (17), Ben
Beezley (17), and Mike Haig (about
25) hauled their bags to Sickle Ledge
from the ground but then decided to
cancel their climb of the Nose. They
had de-rigged their fixed lines during
1 800
the ascent, so Mike and Ben
Stranded, Difficult Terrain, Insufficient 1998
Research,Alberta,
Alberta, Clemenceau
Clemenceau totoChaba
Chaba River Trek
River
Trek
An experienced party of eleven
climbers flew in to the Clemenceau
Icefield in August, spent five days
climbing and exploring, and then
started hiking out north toward the
Banff-Jasper Highway. They made
1 801
excellent progress over glaciated
Acute Mountain Sickness, Miscommunication,1998 Inexperience,
Washington, Washington, Mount Rainier
Mount Rainier
Mount Rainier communications
received a radio call on May 21 from a
team of three climber/researchers in
the summit crater of Mount Rainier.
The reporting party, Francois
LeGuern leader of a French research
team, indicated that one of his
0 803
members was suffering from Acute
Avalanche Utah, Provo Canyon, Bridal 1998 Veil FallsA large, out-of-the-ordinary storm
struck Utah on January 25. It snowed
heavily along the Wasatch Front until
noon and then switched to a mixture
of heavy rain and snow, and later in
the afternoon went back to snowing.
Ice climbers were on the ice in the
vicinity of Bridal Veil Falls during this
0 804
warming period. The Bridal Veil Falls
Avalanche, New Hampshire, Mount Washington,
1998 King Hampshire,
New Ravine Mount Washington,
King Ravine
King Ravine is a large glacial cirque
located in the Northern Presidential
Range. It features several prominent
avalanche paths and starting zones.
There are no avalanche forecasts
issued for this part of the range.
0 805
On November 23, Joel Reigner and
Fall in Ice, Protection Pulled Out, Exceeding
1998 Abilities,
North North Carolina,
Carolina,
Luc Parent Doughton
wereDoughton
ascending Park Park
the Great
On January 19, Shawn Hansen (30)
Gully Trail, a steep and difficult hiking
died
trail (and major avalanche path) in to
after the anchors he was using
support his friend on an ice floe broke
loose.
Hansen's friend, Ed Williams (30) of
Raleigh was climbing up the ice floe at
Ice Rocks, a popular ice climbing area
0 806
in Doughton Park, when he fell off the
 change weekly and old glissade paths
frequently lead to newly exposed
crevasses. Kapaun did not check his
descent path and was unable to see
what was ahead of him while sliding.
Fall into Crevasse, Glissading Instead of1998
Walking, Unroped, Washington, Mount Rainier, Inter Glacier
Although the path may have been
crevasse-free the week before, that
was no longer the case. We strongly
recommend that climbers hike down
the Inter glacier, or at least check their
descent path. (Source: Mike Gauthier,
SAR Ranger, Mount Rainier National
0 807 Park)
Fall into Crevasse, Washington, Mount 1998
Rainier, Emmons GlacierMount Rainier, Emmons
Washington,
Glacier
On July 29, Don McIntyre and Joel
Koury had just climbed Liberty Ridge
and were forced to bivy near the
summit of Rainier due to a sudden
storm which deposited wet, heavy
snow on the upper mountain. The
0 808
team had lost the descent route in the
Fall on Hard Snow — Crampons Iced Up, 1998UnableOregon,
to Self-Arrest,
MountOregon,
Hood, Mount
PalmerHood, Palmer Glacier
Glacier
On June 11, Andy March (32) was
descending from the summit of Mount
Hood about noon when his crampons
became “iced up,” and he was unable
to clear them by tapping them with his
ice ax. He slipped and fell 300 feet
before he was able to stop his fall.
0 809
His partner summoned help at
Fall on Ice, Equipment Failure — Carabiner,
1998 Fall Colorado,
on Ice, Colorado,
Timberline Vail, Vail,
Rigid
Lodge, and Rigid Inseminator
Inseminator
a rescue team
On December 7, Jim Amidon
proceeded to help March down (31)
theand
Joe Crotty They
mountain. (30), returned
both experienced ice
to the lodge
climbers, set out to ice climb in the
Designator area. Around 2:00 PM Jim
Amidon fell 85 feet from the Rigid
Inseminator (WI 5, M7) pulling one ice
piton and screw, and snapping a
0 810
carabiner before decking out. He
Fall on Ice, Ice Screws Pulled Out — Soft
1998Ice, Fatigue, Washington,
Washington, Mount Mount Rainier,
Rainier, Nisqually Glacier
Nisqually
Glacier
Mount Rainier communications
received a report of a fallen climber
on the Nisqually Glacier from a cell
phone call on September 6. The
reporting party, a Seattle
Mountaineers instructor, indicated that
0 811
a climber in his group had fallen
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Belay, Exceeding1998
Abilities, Colorado,Rocky
Colorado, RockyMountain
Mountain National
National Park, Thatchtop
Park, Thatchtop
On November 6, at 1300, Chris
Chierello (29) was leading the Snake
Route (I, WI4) on Thatchtop North
Face, and was belayed by Mark
Keating (21). Chierello was leading
the final headwall section about 100
0 812
feet above the ground, when his tool
 Fall on Rock — Blown Off by Wind Gust, 1998
Inadequate Protection,
On July 2, ToddPartner Stranded,
Marshall Inexeperience Colorad
(34) was
leading the seventh pitch of Petit
Grepon South Face (III, 5.8). At 1900,
Marshall topped out on the spur ledge
below the summit, stood up with arms
upraised, and gave a, “Hurray,” and
got blown off by a strong gust of wind
from the southeast estimated at 60-70
0 813
mph by his partner, Matteo Baceda.
Fall on Rock — Cause Unknown, Climbing 1998Alone, Wyoming,Grand
Wyoming, GrandTeton
Teton National
National Park,
Park,Grand Teton, O
Grand Teton, Owen-Spaulding Route
On June 23 at 0825, Amer Beslagic
(38) obtained a back-country camping
permit at the Jenny Lake Ranger
Station for a campsite at the Moraine
in Garnet. His intention was to solo
climb the Grand Teton via the Owen-
0 814
Spaulding Route on the following day.
Fall on Rock — Change of Plans, Wyoming,
1998 Devil's Tower National
Wyoming, Monument
Devil’s Tower National
Monument
On August 21 at 1450, the Visitor
Center received a report from Lucas
Bannister that a climber was calling
for help on the Southwest Buttress. I
notified Ranger Fontaine to organize
the SAR team for a possible rescue
0 815
and then responded to the Tower Trail
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Inadequate
1998 Equipment — Hiking
West Virginia, Boots
River — and No Hard Hat, West Virg
Rocks
On April 20, Mark Williamson (25) had
finished a day of climbing and had
already changed from his climbing
shoes to his hiking boots. He
reportedly spied a carabiner up a
climb and decided to retrieve it. It was
a 5.9+ route, but he did not change
0 816
back to his rock shoes to rope up.
Fall on Rock, Equalized Sling Failure, Oregon,
1998 Smith RockSmith
Oregon, State Park
Rock State Park
On June 7, a climber was being
lowered by his partner after climbing
the route, Easy Reader (5.6) at the
Dihedrals in Smith Rock State Park.
After descending about 15 feet, the
anchor sling failed sending the climber
free falling approximately 60 feet. He
0 817
landed on his feet, hip, arm and body
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Route, Weather,
1998 Protection
Colorado,Pulled
RockyOut, Colorado,
Mountain Rocky Mountain Nation
National
Park, Longs Peak
On October 11, Chris Sproul (26) and
David Sweedler (37) began the Notch
Couloir (III, AI 3, 5.5) on the East
Face of Longs Peak. Sproul and
Sweedler gained the top of the Notch
feature at 13,900 feet, but then
1 818
encountered extreme winds and
 Fall on Rock, Fatigue, Miscommunication,
1998Washington, Icicle Creek,
Washington, Icicle Eight
Creek,Mile Buttress
Eight Mile
Buttress
On Sunday, April 16, Andy Tonning
was participating in a rock climbing
field trip as a student in the Seattle
Mountaineers Intermediate Climbing
Course. He was ascending the Tree
Route on Eight Mile Buttress. This is a
0 820
popular multi-pitch route which has
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay and Protection,
1998 Wyoming,
Wyoming, Grand
GrandTeton National
Teton Park,Park,
National Grand Teton, Owen
Grand Teton, Owen-Spaulding
On July 4 at 0925, Jackson Hole
Mountain Guide Allan Bard (44) took
a fatal leader fall while guiding on the
Owen- Spaulding Route on the Grand
Teton. He and his client, Jay Wiener,
were on a section of the route known
0 821
as the Double Chimney when the
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Inadequate
1998 Belay, New Hampshire,
New Hampshire, Whitehorse
Whitehorse Ledge, Standard Rou
Ledge,
Standard Route
In July, a father of unknown age and
his 14-year-old son were climbing
Standard Route on Whitehorse
Ledge. The father was leading the
crux layback corner, and the son was
belaying at Lunch Ledge. It is
0 822
reported that the son was not belaying
Fall on Rock, Loose Rock, Washington,1998
Tumwater Buttress
Washington, Tumwater Buttress
On Sunday, April 26, Linda Olson was
participating in a rock climbing field
trip as a student in the Seattle
Mountaineers Intermediate Climbing
Course. She was leading the second
pitch of Tumwater Buttress. Linda
climbed to the top of a short pillar and
0 823
reached the crux of the climb, which
Fall on Rock, New Hampshire, Cathedral 1998
Ledge, Recompense
New Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge,
Recompense
A party of two climbed Recompense,
and the leader fell while on the crux
third pitch. He fell 10 to 15 feet and hit
a ledge, badly breaking his leg. The
climbers had the experience and
knowledge to initiate their own rescue.
0 824
The belayer was able to get the
Fall on Rock, Protection Failed, Loose Rock,
1998 NewNewHampshire, Cannon
Hampshire, Cliff, Whitney-Gilman
Cannon Cliff,
Whitney-Gilman
On October 29, Daniel Becker (19)
and Jonathan Waldman (19) were
switching leads on a very crowded
Whitney-Gilman with multiple parties
above and below The party
immediately ahead of Daniel and
0 825
Jonathan were having a difficult time
 Fall on Rock, Rappel Error, Darkness, Utah,
1998 ZionUtah,
National
ZionPark, Prodigal
National SonProdigal
Park,
Son
On New Years, 1997, John
Christensen (36) died while soloing
Prodigal Son in Zion National Park.
Having fixed two pitches the previous
day, he tried to complete the route in
one push on December 31, New
0 826
Year's Eve. I last saw him climbing by
Fall on Rock, Utah, Diamond Fork 1998 Utah, Diamond Fork
On May 8, we were paged out at 1730
for a fall victim, still hanging from his
rope, in Diamond Fork Canyon.
When I arrived on scene the boy
(victim) was sitting in a car. Dick
asked me to check him out, but the
boy did not want any medical
0 827
attention. He had been up walking
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, 1998
Climbing Colorado,
Unroped, Exceeding Abilities,National
Rocky Mountain Colorado, Rocky Mounta
Park, Longs Peak
On October 11, Madrone Coopwood
(24) slid 200 feet on Lambs Slide at
Longs Peak. Coopwood struck the
rocks at the base of the snow,
sustaining a right illiac fracture, slight
rib fractures, and a pneumothorax of
0 828
the right lung.
Fall on Snow — Faulty Use of Crampons,1998Oregon,Oregon,
Mount Hood,
MountSouth
Hood, Side
South Side
On April 4, a climber (32) was
glissading below Crater Rock when
his crampons snagged on hard snow,
resulting in a fractured tibia. (Source:
Jeff Sheetz, Portland Mountain
Rescue)
(Editor's Note: Perhaps we should put
0 829
New Hampshire guide George
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self Arrest, 1998
Climbing Montana,
Unroped, mantra
Hurley’s No Hardon
Glacier Hat,allMontana,
National park,Glacier National Park,
crampons:
Rainbow Peak
“There is no good reason for
On July 3, Mark Robison (24) and
Christopher Foster (23) fell 2000 feet
to their deaths. They had nearly
summitted Rainbow Peak when the
lead climber apparently lost his
footing, taking the second climber
0 830
down with him as he fell out of control
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, 1998
Inexperience, No Belay,
Wyoming, Wyoming,
Grand Teton Grand Teton
National National Park, M
Park,
Mount Teewinot
Chris Thompson (16) and Forrest Hill
(?) had left Idaho Falls early the
morning of June 6 to climb the East
Face of Mount Teewinot. Thompson,
being more experienced, was
described as the leader, intent on
0 831
providing instruction to Hill who had
 Fall on Snow, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
1998 Exceeding Abilities,
Colorado, Rocky Colorado,
Mountain Rocky Mountain National Pa
National
Park, Mount Meeker
On August 14, Scot Eden (25) was
injured while attempting to descend
from a partial ascent of Left Gully
(a.k.a. Dream Weaver—II, AI 2), on
Mount Meeker. Eden had turned
around on the route when bad
0 832
weather began building. While
Fall on Snow, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
1998 Oregon, Mount
Oregon, HoodHood
Mount
On May 19, Carlos Loria (age
unknown) was descending the Coe
Glacier after making the summit. He
slipped and fell 700 feet, fracturing his
neck. He had been reported overdue
by his brother. Rescuers found him,
noting lacerations on his face, slight
0 833
hypothermia and the cervical injury.
Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped, Snow1998 Conditions — Névé,
Oregon, Oregon,
Mount Mount
Hood, Hood,Spur
Cooper Cooper Spur
On September 6, Mark Fraas (40) fell
1500 feet down the Cooper Spur after
losing his footing.
Analysis
There have been at least 13 fatalities
on the Cooper Spur. All follow a
similar scenario: loss of footing,
0 834
inability to self-arrest, and a long fall
Fall on Snow, Failure to Self-Arrest, Washington,
1998 Columbia Peak
Washington, Columbia Peak
On July 13, Lee Giroux (50) and five
other members of the Seattle
Mountaineers attempted to reach the
summit of Columbia Peak. The party
left their camp at 6:00 a.m. that
morning. Each party member was
wearing a helmet and harness and
0 836
carrying an ice ax. About 30 minutes
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Equipment, No 1998
Belay, Exceeding
Colorado,Abilities, Colorado,
South Maroon South Maroon Peak
Peak
On August 16, Aspen climber Hillary
Trish (21) fell while descending from a
successful climb of 14,156-foot South
Maroon Peak. Trish fell in clear, warm
weather at mid afternoon while
attempting to descend the top of the
southeast couloir. She was climbing in
0 837
light hikers without crampons, facing
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Illness,
1998 Wyoming,
Wyoming,GrandGrand
TetonTeton
National Park, Grand
National Park,Teton
Grand Teton
On June 25 at 1300, Exum Guide Jim
Kanzler reported to park dispatch via
cellular phone an accident in Garnet
Canyon. According to Kanlzer, Paul
Newman (38) had sustained injuries in
a 500 foot fall down snow at the
0 838
Lower Saddle headwall. Newmans
 Falling Ice, Washington, Mount Rainier,1998
Kautz IceWashington,
Cliff Mount Rainier, Kautz Ice
Cliff
On July 20 Mount Rainier
communications received information
relating to a 911 call from a climbing
party on the Kautz Glacier route. The
reporting climber Greg Prothman of
Seattle Mountain Rescue called from
0 839
Camp Hazard (11,300 feet) indicating
Falling Rocks, Fall on Rock, Poor Position,
1998Washington, LundinLundin
Washington, Peak Peak
On September 10, Rob Crapo (37)
successfully summitted Lundin Peak
(6,057 feet) at 1330 with six members
of the Seattle Mountaineers. Rob, an
experienced climber with an extensive
resume of climbs, was leading the
trip. Peter Babler and Brendan
0 841
Williams were rope leaders. The
Handhold Came Loose, Fall on Rock, Colorado,
1998 Capitol
Colorado,PeakCapitol Peak
On August 17, while approaching the
summit of 14,130 foot Capitol Peak
along the Knife Edge (the standard
route), a 36-year old male
mountaineer from Denver fell an
estimated 1,000 feet down to a cirque
on the eastern side of the peak. The
0 843
fall was reported about 1030 by
Handhold Came Off — Failure to Test Hold,
1998 Fall Colorado,
on Rock, Colorado, Rocky Mountain
Rocky Mountain NationalNational Park, Lon
Park, Longs Peak
On August 19, prior to 0900, Steve
Mestdagh (39) was leading the North
Chimney (II, 5.6) on the East Face of
Longs Peak when he dislodged a
large rock which he was using for a
handhold. The rock gave way as he
0 844
pulled it. It fell on his foot. Mestdagh
Handhold Came Off — Failure to Test Hold,
1998 Fall Colorado,
on Rock, Protection Pulled Out,
Rocky Mountain Inattention, Colorado, R
National
Park, Lumpy Ridge
On March 2, Hayner Brooks (44) was
climbing with Ken Miller on the route
Three's Company (I, 5.7), pitches one
and two, into the final (third) pitch of
the Thunder
Buttress Route (II, 5.7+) on Thunder
0 845
Buttress, Lumpy Ridge. On the third
Rappel Error — Inadequate Protection, 1998
Fall on Rock,
and Inexperience
Wyoming, Grand
final pitch, inTeton
Outdoor
Brooks Climbing,
National
was Weather, Wyomi
swiftlyPark,
Symmetry Spire
leading lower fifth class rock near the
On July 7, around 1600, John Hehr
(48) fell to his death when his rappel
anchor on the Southwest Ridge route
of Symmetry Spire failed. The rappel
anchor failed while the climbing party
(J. Hehr specifically) was descending
0 847
the Southwest Ridge route after
 complications.
Analysis
Catlett and Willcox became pinned
down on the summit due to
deteriorating weather. They felt that
Rappel Failure — Ropes Too Short, Stranded,
1998 Nevada,
Nevada,RedRedRocks Canyon
Rocks NCA NCA
Canyon
traveling on an unknown route over
On February 8, the Las Vegas
glaciers during whiteout conditions
Metropolitan Police Department SAR
might endanger them more and they
unit responded to a call regarding a
elected to dig in. Although there were
stranded climber on a rock face at
brief periods of clear weather, it was
Willow Springs. The victim (25) was
felt that there was no substantial
rappelling when he realized his rope
weather window to allow the party to
was too short. He had tied himself off
1 848 break camp and safely get to a better
about six feet from the end of the
Stranded — Lost, Inadequate Clothing and location.
1998Equipment, ThisMount
Washington,
Washington, continued
Mount bad weather
Rainier,
Rainier, Disappointment Cleav
prevented
Disappointment movementCleaver and under
recommendation
Early on the morning fromofpark personnel,
September 1,
the party stayed put.
the two-person Connell party called
Its common
Mount Rainier forcommunications
Liberty Ridge climbing by cell
parties to carry-over
phone to report that they the summit
had lostandthe
descend an alternate
climbing route in a white route.
out This
and were
requires
unable tocarrying
find theirheavy
way up packs up the
or down
0 849 route and climbers are tempted to
the mountain. Without any bivy gear,
Stranded, Exceeding Abilities, Inadequate
1998Equipment, Colorado,
Colorado,
pack Rocky
just enough Rocky Mountain
Mountain
food National
for the Park, Longs P
National
and fuel
Park,
proposedLongs Peakof their trip.
length
On July 25,
Inclement weatherat 0100, canDavid
spellGallegos
disaster
and his brother George
for a party that is committed (26) left from
to the
Covenant Height's Camp to
route. It is especially important for climb
Kiener's
climbers Route
ascending(III, AI1,
remote5.4)and
on the
East Face of Longs Peak.
harder routes on Rainier to carry George
had climbed
additional foodtheand
routefuelpreviously and
for possible
0 850
was to show David
storm-bound days. the way. They did
Stranded, Inadequate Food and Fuel, Washington,
1998 Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge
This also applies to ascents on
standard routes. It’s worth noting that
weather conditions worsened shortly
after the rescue, and the mountain
experienced extreme winds and
New
cloudy York, Mohonk
weather Preserve,
for the next four days.
Shawangunks
(Source: Mike Gauthier, SAR Ranger,
1 851 ...The
Mount most
Rainierinteresting
Nationalaccident
Park)
involved a seasoned 'Gunks climber
Fall on Rock and Inadequate Protection,
1998
New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks
(59) who engaged in a deliberate
leader fall on High Exposure (5.6) for
a filming crew. Some protection
pulled, and he fell backwards, hitting
his back and head.
(Source: From the report submitted
by the Mohonk Preserve and Jed
0 852 Williamson)
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Wyoming,
1998 Grand Teton Grand
Wyoming, NationalTeton
Park, National
Grand Teton
Park,
Grand Teton
On August 22 at 1143, Ranger Leo
Larson was at the Lower Saddle when
he received word of a possible
incident on the Lower Exum Ridge of
the Grand Teton. Additional
information received from Exum
0 854
Guide Mark Newcomb via cellular
 Fall on Rock, Rappel Ropes Knot "Unraveled,"
1998 Wyoming,
Wyoming, Grand Teton,
Grand Guide's
Teton, WallWall
Guide’s
On September 13, Karen Turk (32)
Matt Goewert (33), and Carrie Dagher
were descending Guide’s Wall when
this incident occurred. Goewert and
Dagher stated that the party of three
had climbed the Guide's Wall route to
within two pitches of the top. At this
0 855
point, Turk elected to remain while
Loss of Control — Voluntary Glissade, 1998
Climbing Wyoming,
Alone, No Hard
WindHat, Wyoming,
River Canyon,Wind River Canyon, Di
Dinwoody Pass
On September 1, Steve Fleming (45)
was unable to self-arrest while
descending from Dinwoody Pass. In a
report he submitted, he stated that the
snowfield he ascended in the morning
required crampons, but had softened
0 856
in the afternoon to the point where
Avalanche, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, 1999
Jasper National Park,
Alberta, Mount
Rocky Edith Cavell
Mountains, Jasper
National Park, Mount Edith Cavell
On June 28, two climbers ascended
the East Ridge of Mount Edith Cavell,
and made the summit by 1300. They
began descending the East Ridge,
and were over the steep section by
1500. At the head of the prominent
0 857
gully which parallels the lower angled
Avalanche, Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection,
1999 British Columbia,
British Rocky
Columbia, Mountains,
Rocky Mount Dennis
Mountains,
Mount Dennis
On March 14, a party of three were
climbing Guiness Gully (III, 4), a
moderate ice route. The leader had
completed the second pitch when a
wet avalanche came down the gully.
He had 50 meters of rope between
0 858
him and the other two climbers at the
Exposure to Severe Weather, Hypothermia,
1999Inadequate Equipment—Portaledge,
California, Poor Position, California,
Yosemite Valley, El
Capitan
On May 26 at 1415, Yosemite
Dispatch received a telephone call
from Robert Burton, who reported that
he had received a cellular telephone
call from Craig Calonica (45), who,
along with Jordi Tosas (30) was
0 859
climbing “New Dawn” on El Capitan.
Failure to Follow Route, Overdue, Alberta,
1999RockyAlberta,
Mountains, Mount
Rocky Andromeda
Mountains, Mount
Andromeda
Two climbers were two days overdue
on the Skyladder route on Mount
Andromeda.
On March 7, the climbers started
climbing at 0300 and were at the base
of Skyladder by dawn. They climbed
0 860
the route in mixed weather with
 Fall into Moat—Snow Bridge Collapsed, 1999
Poor Position,
Alaska,Alaska, Chugach
Chugach Range,
Range, Cantata Peak
Cantata
Peak
On June 6, around 1400, Kirk Towner
(26) and I (29) were in the process of
descending from Cantata Peak (5,205
feet). After glissading almost 2,000
feet down a prominent snow gully on
the southwest face, we traversed the
0 861
snow slope on the north side of the
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Knot, Colorado,1999
Ouray IceColorado,
Park Ouray Ice Park
On March 19, Greg Kowalsky (age
unknown) fell 70 feet when his knot
came undone as he was preparing to
be lowered by his partner who was
belaying him from the ground.
Despite efforts of emergency crews
and four nearby climbers, Kowalsky
0 862
succumbed to his multiple injuries.
Fall on Ice, Unable to Self-Arrest, Inadequate
1999 Belay, Alaska,
Alaska,
(Source: Mount
Mount
The McKinley,
McKinley,
Ridgeway West
West
Sun, Buttress
Week of
Buttress
William Finley (24) and Jeff Munroe
(25) were injured in a 2,000 foot fall
down the “Orient Express” section of
the West Rib route on Mount
McKinley June 18 at 0040. Both were
descending roped together when they
0 863
slipped on 45-degree ice around
Fall on Ice, Weather, Exceeding Abilities,
1999
California, Mount Shasta
California, Mount Shasta
On June 25, Lois Johnson (52) and
her husband Tom had camped at
Lake Helen and were climbing the
standard Avalanche Glacier route
when she lost her balance while
putting on dark glasses as the sun
rose. She was just 50 vertical feet
0 864
from the security of Red Banks, a
Fall on Ice/Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest,1999
Weather,Alaska,
Alaska, Mount
Mount McKinley, West
West Buttress
Buttress
(What follows is a synopsis of two
incidents, one that happened as a
result of the second party attempting
to rescue the first.)
At 1130 on May 24, Jason Sinnes and
Daniel Rowarth (29)—Burrito Brothers
0 865
climbing team—decided to descend
Fall on Rappel, British Columbia, Rocky 1999
Mountains,
fromMount
British Stanleyfoot
Columbia,
the 17,000 Rocky Mountains,
campsite on the
Mount Stanley
On July 27, after returning from the
North Face glacier route, three
climbers were rappelling low angle
slabs heading to the meadows below.
One of them lost control of his rappel
for a short distance and caught his
0 866
foot in a crack. He fractured his ankle.
 Fall on Rappel, Inadequate Protection, Alberta,
1999 Rocky Mountains,
Alberta, Tunnel Mountain
Rocky Mountains, Tunnel
Mountain
On June 21, a party of two had
completed the first two pitches of
Gooseberry (II, 5.7) a seven-pitch
popular route near the town of Banff.
They had only planned to do those
two pitches and then follow the walk-
0 867
off ledge shown on the topo they had.
Fall on Rock, Alberta, Rocky Mountains,1999
Mount Yamnuska
Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount
Yamnuska
On July 5, Kananaskis Emergency
Services were notified by D. S. of a
climbing accident on the Calgary
Route of Mount Yamnuska. They
responded by heli-slinging several
rescuers to the base of the route. The
0 868
rescuers climbed to the victim. J. H.
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, British1999
Columbia, Selkirk
British Mountains,
Columbia, GraysMountains,
Selkirk Peak
Grays Peak
Two climbers departed the Gibson
Lake parking lot in the early morning
of July 16 and traveled through dense
bush for several hours to the base of
the west face of Grays Peak. Their
objective was to traverse Grays Peak
0 869
via the Southwest Ridge.
Fall on Rock, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon1999
State Park
Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State
Park
On June 7, a thirty-nine-year-old male
experienced climber had started to
follow the fourth pitch of Ruper (5.8)
on Redgarden Wall when he reached
for a hand hold, missed and fell. The
belayer cinched the rope, but since
0 870
his follower had just started the pitch,
Fall on Rock, Descending Unroped, No1999Helmet, Colorado,
Colorado,Eldorado
EldoradoState ParkPark
State
On March 25, a thirty-two year old
female experienced climber and her
partner had just completed the first
pitch of Blind Faith (5.10) on the west
side of the Bastille. Rather than
continuing up the route or rigging a
rappel, they decided to unrope and
0 871
down-climb a somewhat loose, broken
Fall on Rock, Equipment Failure—Carabiner
1999 Broke, California,
California, Lover's
Lover's Leap
Leap
Gear worries were far from our minds
on a beautiful June morning when
Tom Stargaard and I were heading off
to Lovers Leap for a day of climbing.
The recent cover photo on Climbing
Magazine had renewed our interest in
this fine area, and we hoped to spend
0 872
the day climbing a few of the classics.
 Fall on Rock, Fatigue—Unable to Clip Carabiner,
1999 California, Pinnacles
California, Pinnacles National
NationalMonument
Monument
The accident happened on September
25 at the Pinnacles Monument around
noon. My climbing partner, Jamey
Stowell, and I were on our fourth
climb of the day, and climbing well.
We were on “Cantaloupe Death” on
0 873
the Monolith, a sport climb that has a
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay-Lowering,
1999Alberta, Rocky Rocky
Alberta, Mountains, Heart Creek,
Mountains, HeartKananaskis Country
Creek, Kananaskis Country
On July 18, M. P. was climbing at the
Heart Creek sport climbing area when
he was lowered off the end of his rope
by his belayer, resulting in a six-meter
fall. Injuries are unknown. He was
evacuated by Peter Lougheed Park
0 874
rangers. (Source: George Field,
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay—Rope 1999Too ShortCalifornia,
and No Knot Tied in End,
Yosemite California,
National Park, Yosemite Nationa
Guppy Dome
On September 7, Scott Davidson (54)
led a short pitch, fixed an anchor and
had his belayer lower him (with an
ATC). The rope (50m) was too short
for the task and there was no safety
knot in the end. The end of the rope
0 875
ran through the ATC and Davidson fell
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay—Rope 1999Too Short,Alberta,
Alberta,Rocky
RockyMountains,
Mountains, Back
Backofofthe
theLake Crag
Lake Crag
On September 15, after completing
Imaginary Grace (5.8), a climber was
being lowered out from the anchors
by his partner. The route is 30 meters
long and their rope was 50 meters
long. The rope went through the belay
0 876
device and he fell 10 meters to the
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Inexperience,
1999 Alberta,Rocky
Alberta, RockyMountains,
Mountains, Mount
Mount Yamnuska
Yamnuska
On May 13, D. B. reported a climbing
accident to Bow Valley Provincial Park
Rangers. The accident occurred on
the second pitch of the Red Shirt
Route on Mount Yamnuska. The
leader, C. R., took a 40-foot fall and
0 877
the fixed protection sling failed on
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection—Pulled
1999 Out,California,
California, Yosemite
Yosemite Valley,
Valley,ElElCapitan
Capitan
On September 13 around 1720, Kris
Alageswaram (age unknown) was
leading pitch number 26 on the Nose
Route of El Capitan. At a height of 15
to 20 feet above the belay ledge, Kris
placed a piece of protection for an aid
0 878
move. While putting weight on the
 Analysis
granite, having climbed approximately
Here
50 routesis a good
in theexample
park on thisof anand one
inexperienced
previous trip. party getting in over
their heads by attempting
Craig’s belayer might have shortened too difficult
a route. The “Summit to the
his fall by taking in slack, but he had Sea”
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out—Inadequate,
1999 California, was
expedition YosemiteadvisedValley
in Talkeetna
no time to do so. Craig feels he
to
should have placed protectionsince
stay on the West Buttress a few
half
feet the
beforeparty had very
(lower than)little
the glacier
piece that or
ice climbing experience.
failed. He could see the crack there While at
14,200
and could feet,
havetheyplaced
were advised
a reliabletopiecetake
several
that would dayshave to acclimatize
kept him offatthe their
high camp, since their
ground. (Source: John Dill, SAR summit day
0 879 would be a long one.
Ranger, Yosemite National Park) Because of good
weather, they chose to make their
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out—Piton,
1999 Alberta, RockyRocky
Alberta, Mountains, Ha Ling
Mountains, HaPeakLing
summit push the next morning. Their
Peak
lack of acclimatization became
On September 12, J. M., F. K. and S.
apparent when one member became
K. were climbing the Northeast Ridge
ill on summit day and the rest required
of Ha Ling Peak near Canmore. J. M.
twelve hours to ascend just 2,800 feet
was leading the third last pitch when
over technically easy ground. The
he experienced some difficulty and
experienced members in the party
decided to be lowered and let
0 880 should have realized that their slow
someone else try the lead. He was
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled, No Hard
1999 pace
Hat, Alberta,
Alberta, wasRocky
Rocky a Mountains,
good indication
Mountains, that it was Crag
Back-of-the-Lake
Back-of-
time to turn
the-Lake Crag around. To make matters
worse,
On August after30,a long
T. R.day
wasthey planned
leading “I
to
Hear attempt a difficult
My Train corniced
A-Coming” finishHe
(5.10c). to
the
wasWest Rib—a
retreating to route seldom
his last piece tried
even
because, by very
“it wasexperienced
no good,”parties.
when he On
top
fell, of all these
pulling it and concerns
at least they left an ill
one other
member
piece. Hebehindhit theingroundcamp,withwhothe was rope
0 881 then forced to solo down because of
just coming tight possibly absorbing
Fall on Rock—Unable to Self-rescue, Colorado,
1999 Eldorado
his AMS.State
Colorado, Park State
Eldorado
To farther Park
their predicament,
On August
the 8, A twenty-eight-year-old
leader descended with a person
malewas
who experienced
unstable,climberdown awas route leading
the fourth for
notorious pitchits of Rewritten
falls. Belays (5.7)
and fixedon
Redgardenshould
protection Wall whenhave he beenslipped
used.and
fell twelve
The leaderfeet.was The victim’s
familiar with protection
the route
held and the belayer
and conditions they had ascended was able to stopthe
the fall. However, the
day before, which would have been victim’s lower
0 882
right leg caught
the safer choice.on a rock
Had theyduring
carriedthe
Fall on Snow, Exceeding Abilities, Ascending
1999 Too Fast, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Rib
extra batteries for their radio, the pair
could have been warned about the
conditions in the descent route.
The two who survived four nights out
in bivi bags were incredibly lucky. A
strong will and determination kept
them alive. (Source: Roger Robinson,
0 883 Mountaineering Ranger.
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Descending
1999 Unroped,Mount
Alaska, Weather, Alaska, West
McKinley, Mount McKinley, West Butt
Buttress
The Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.
guided trip led by chief guide Phil
Ershler and assistant guide Chris
Hooyman began their expedition on
May 21. The group, consisting of four
clients and two guides, took nine days
0 884
to reach the 14,200 foot camp. During
 Falling Bag of Rocks—Haul Rope Severed, 1999Poor California,
Position, Inexperience, California,
Yosemite Valley, El Yosemite Valley, El C
Capitan
On October 8 at 1430, Daniel Gibson
was practicing haul techniques by
raising a 40 pound bag of rocks to his
belay point. The bag became hung up
on an overhang approximately 75 feet
in the air. The rope failed, causing the
0 886
bag of rocks to fall, hitting Helen
Falling Rock, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, 1999
Goat Mountain
Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Goat
Mountain
On September 14 M.D.L.C. was
climbing with D. C. on a route called
Twilight Zone when he was hit in the
right hand by rockfall. His thumb was
badly crushed and almost amputated.
D. C. called Kananaskis Emergency
0 887
Services for assistance. K. E. S.
Falling Rock, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, 1999
Mount Fay
Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Fay
On August 2, a party of three were
climbing the center ice bulge on the
North Face Ice routes when one of
the climbers was hit by rockfall,
sustaining a lower leg fracture. The
party lowered the injured climber to
the glacier below. One of them then
0 888
descended to Moraine Lake and
Falling Rock, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, 1999
Mount Victoria
Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount
Victoria
On August 12, a party of two were
starting early up the North Ridge of
Mount Victoria to the north peak after
a bivouac at the Victoria Collier Col.
The ridge is moderate ice with a
fourth class rock step. At the step, the
0 889
leader dislodged a rock which hit his
Falling Rock, Off Route, Stranded, Alberta,
1999RockyAlberta,
Mountains,
Rocky Mount Louis Mount
Mountains,
Louis
On July 26, a party of two attempted
Greenwood Route (III, 5.7) on the
south Face of Mount Louis. They had
difficulty following the route and found
the climbing much more difficult than
the 5.7 rating. Late in the day, one of
0 890
the climbers was hit by a rock on the
Fatigue, Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled1999
Out, Colorado, Eldorado
Colorado, Canyon
Eldorado State Park
Canyon State
Park
On January 17, a climber (male – 25)
with limited experience and unfamiliar
with “Dirt Deed” (5.6) the route he was
on, became fatigued upon
approaching the first ledge of the first
pitch. His belayer observed him
0 891
stopping to rest. As he continued to
 FATIGUE, FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION 1999 PULLEDColorado,OUT, Colorado,
Eldorado Eldorado
State Park Canyon State Park
On February 22, a thirty year old
female climber was walking along the
base of the Rincon Wall when she
was struck on the right forearm by a
falling rock about the size of a
climbing helmet. Her only warning
came too late from a party of climbers
0 892
directly above her. The rock had been
Hand-hold Came Loose, Fall on Rock, Placed
1999 No California,
Protection, Yosemite
California, Valley
Yosemite Valley
On January 26, Katherine Davis (31)
was climbing on Supplication (5.10).
She was leading a 5.8 approach to
set a belay at a ledge when the rock
handhold she was holding crumbled
off the wall. At the time of the fall
Davis was wearing a seat harness
0 893
with gear, but was not clipped through
Off Route, Party Separated, Inexperienced,
1999BritishBritish
Columbia, SelkirkSelkirk
Columbia, Mountains, Avalanche Peak
Mountains,
Avalanche Peak
Two climbers on Avalanche Peak
found themselves separated. One of
the climbers with no previous
experience down-climbed a series of
small cliffs until he found himself
looking down a 200-meter vertical
1 895
drop. Unable to climb back up the cliff
Overdue, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Jasper
1999National Park,Rocky
Alberta, Mount Mountains,
Geraldine Jasper
National Park, Mount Geraldine
Two inexperienced climbers read the
route description for Mount Geraldine
in a local guidebook and decided that
this was a reasonable objective for
low- end climbers. Although Mount
Geraldine is not technically difficult
0 896
(mostly class 3), it is a very long one-
Pre-exisiting Medical Condition—Failure1999
to Inform Guides,
Alaska, Alaska,
Mount Mount McKinely,
McKinley, West West Buttress
Buttress
On June 16, John Cloe (59), a client
of a guided Rainier Mountaineering,
Inc., expedition began experiencing
chest pain the late afternoon while
climbing to the 14,200 foot camp.
Upon arriving in camp at 1900, he told
0 897
his guide, Gary Talcott, of the pain in
Rappel Error—Ropes Uneven, Rappel Off 1999End ofColorado,
Rope, No Helmet,
Eldorado Colorado, Eldorado Canyon
State Park
Just Another Girl’s Climb (5.12) on
Lower Peanuts Wall begins on a
ledge about fifty feet off the ground
requiring a scramble for access. On
September 6, a forty-two year old
male experienced climber had
lowered his partner who
0 898
unsuccessfully attempted a lead on
 as a brake. Calvert rappelled less
than 50 feet when he discovered the
ropes entangled but not stuck below
him.
Calvert stated that he was on a blank
Rappel/Lowering Failure—Rope End Passed
1999 Through Belay
Colorado,
slab without Device,
Eldorado Colorado,
convenient State Eldorado
Park
ledges. He State Park
The route Washington
attempted Irvingof(5.6)
to pull up a bight ropeis
on the
and tie West
himselfRidge anditstarts
off with so thatfrom
he a
ledge 30
might feetuse
safely from thehands
both base of tothe
rock that the
untangle requires a fourth
two ropes, butclass
was
scramble
unsuccessful in achieving this. He 8,
for access. On February
a belayer
then (femalethe
reascended – 23)
ropepositioned
50 feet to
herself
the ledge where he began feet
on the ledge, thirty off the
his rappel.
0 899
ground.
He did this by levering up on the in her
She did not have a knot
Rappelled Off End of Rope—Fall on Rock,
1999Miscalculated
California, Rappel Station,
Yosemite California,
Valley, El Yosemite Valley, El
climbing rope and locking off on the
Capitan
ATC. He pulled the entangled rappel
On July 13, as we were preparing to
ropes back up to the ledge, sorted
start the Shield route in Yosemite,
them out, and redeployed them.
California, I (Matthew Luck) was
Calvert was apparently unfamiliar with
ascending the fifth fixed (static) line
the prusik technique.
from the ground up to Heart Ledge on
Fujinami and Calvert made a total of
El Capitan, while my partner, Steve
0 900 four rappels before dark, stopping on
Canavero, waited at the anchor
1999Rockya
Stranded, Darkness, Inexperience, Alberta, large ledge
Mountains,
Alberta, Rocky system
Weeping on theWeeping
Wall
Mountains, normal
route,
Wall about 200 feet above the
ground.
On March They
7 atspent
2200,the nightwardens
Jasper huddled
together
received wrapped
a report of in stranded
the poncho iceand
space
climbers blanket
on theatWeeping
this location.
Wall.TheA party
weather conditions
of two climbers waswere
stuckextreme,
60 meters
with
above highthewinds,
ground. heavy
Theysnow/sleet
had started and
30 degree temperatures.
climbing late in the morning, but when
1 901 In conclusion, there are
they had completed the some
route, key
another
Stranded, Darkness—Failure to Turn Back,
1999Inadequate
points Clothing
California,
to keep and
Yosemite Equipment,
in mind. Valley, California, Yosemite Val
Royal
1) Royal
Arches is a 17 pitch route rated at the
On September
YDS 5.7 A1 level, 15 and
at 2200, NPS
is well
dispatch received
described in the firsta report of climbers
chapter, “Staying
who were
Alive,” yelling
of the guide forbook
helpthey
on the Royal
had.
Arches
The Route.
specific Rangersthey
problems Keith Lober
and John Dill are
encountered anddiscussed.
two SAR 2) Their
technicians responded
clothing choice needs no onfurther
the call.
1 902
Lighting systems, spotting
comment. 3) They did not adhere scope and to a
Stranded, Inexperience, Inadequate Clothing,
1999 Darkness, Weather, California, Yosemite Valley, Royal Arch
turn-around time. 4) Not knowing how
to prusik resulted in taking more time
to untangle the ropes. 5) By tying their
two ropes together, they could have
made a single rappel to the ground
from the ledge where they
bivouacked. (Source: From Yosemite
0 903 National Park Case Incident Reports)
Stranded, Off Route, Inexperience, Alberta,
1999RockyAlberta,
Mountains,Rocky Mount Edith Mount
Mountains,
Edith
On August 5, two climbers were
attempting the South Ridge (II, 5.4) of
Mount
Edith, but missed the start and got off
route and onto steep limestone on the
east face. They were lost and
0 904
eventually both took leader falls trying
 Stranded, Off Route, Inexperience, California,
1999 Yosemite Valley,
California, Royal Arches
Yosemite Valley, Royal
Arches
On July 8 around 2330, Yosemite
dispatch received multiple 911 calls
reporting cries for help coming from
the wall near the Awahnee hotel.
Ranger Keith Lober investigated and
found two climbers calling for help
1 905
above the Bathtub on the “Royal
Stranded—Fatigue, Inexperience, Miscommunication,
1999 Colorado,
Colorado, Eldorado
Eldorado State
State Park
Park
On June 13, a twenty-one-year-old
male with moderate climbing
experience was seconding the second
pitch of the Bulge (5.7) at Redgarden
Wall when he fell about three feet.
After a brief rest, he attempted the
move repeatedly and failed each time.
0 906
By this time, the victim was tiring and
Avalanche, Nevada, Spring Mountain Ranch,
1999 KyleNevada,
Canyon Spring Mountain Ranch, Kyle
Canyon
On March 24, Russ Peterson (40) an
Las Vegas Metropolitan Police Dept.
SAR Officer, and J. R., LVMPD SAR
Volunteer, snow shoed in to Angel
Falls in Kyle Canyon to climb the
Hosemonster (WI5). Snowfall had
0 907
been heavy that winter and Angel
Avalanche, Poor Position, Wyoming, Grand
1999 TetonWyoming,
National Park,
Grand Mount Owen
Teton National Park,
Mount Owen
On the evening of April 22, Ranger
Renny Jackson received a phone call
from Jackson resident Christian
Beckwith. According to Beckwith, his
friend Stephen Koch (29) had not
returned from a solo snowboard
0 908
descent on Mount Owen. Koch had
Avalanche, Poor Protection, Oregon, Mount
1999 Hood, West Crater
Oregon, MountRimHood, West Crater
Rim
The incident took place on Sunday
May 31 at 10:05 PDT at the 10,700
foot level on the West Crater Rim
route. The occasion was a graduation
climb for The Mazamas Basic
Climbing Education program.
0 909
The party was caught in a large slab
Avalanche, Washington, Mount Rainier1999 Washington,
avalanche. The Mount Rainier
fracture occurred
This accident occurred as a RMI
about 200 vertical feet below the
guided team was
westernmost descending
summit ridge nearfrom
thethe
summit. Two rope teams were clipped
into the same fixed line when the
avalanche occurred. The avalanche
caught the first rope team, which
pulled two of the anchors on the fixed
0 910
line. The slide continued unattested
 snowfall are not uncommon on Mount
Rainier during the summer months.
Weather may be the largest
contributing factor to accidents,
rescues, and searches. Inclement
Dislodged Rock-Fall, Rope Severed, Pennsylvania,
1999 Delaware
Pennsylvania,
weather Water Gap,
Delaware
contributed toNational
Water
this teamRecreation
Gap Area, Moun
National Recreation
becoming Area, Mount
split, but stronger efforts
Minsi always be made to stay
should
On the afternoon
together during such of March 26, Daniel
conditions. The
O’Malley, Tim Feitzinger,
immediate assistance of their and Jeff
Sukenick
teammates decided
may have to take advantage
significantly
of the nice weather to go
changed the outcomeof the initialrock
climbing
crevasseon Mount
fall. Minsi.
It is also O’Malley
important to
1 911
and Feitzinger began climbing
note that three other climbing teams an
Fall Into Crevasse, Weather, Hypothermia,
1999Washington, Mount Rainier
reported passing the stranded
climbers while descending Liberty
Cap. They offered assistance
however the two-person Bullard party
declined, perhaps feeling their
situation was not urgent at the time.
(Source: Mike Gauthier, SAR Ranger,
1 912 Mount Rainier National Park)
Fall on Ice, Climbing Alone, Inadequate1999
Protection, Colorado,Rocky
Colorado, RockyMountain
MountainNational
National Park, Thatchtop
Park, Thatchtop
On November 15, at 1000, Richard
Ladue (37) was doing an unroped
solo of All Mixed Up (III, WI4) on
Thatchtop when he fell 100 feet to the
base of the route. Two nearby ice
climbers witnessed the accident, but
0 913
were unsure if the fall was due to
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, New1999
Hampshire,
NewCrawford Notch,Crawford
Hampshire, Frankenstein Cliffs
Notch,
Frankenstein Cliffs
On December 30 Bob O’Brien paired
up with Lisa Thompson for some ice
climbing. Bob is an experienced ice
climber of more than ten years and
while Lisa has limited experience with
ice climbing, she has many years of
0 914
rock climbing experience. They had
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, New1999
Hampshire,
NewMount Washington,
Hampshire, MountHuntington Ravine, O'Dell's Gull
Washington,
Huntington Ravine, O’Dell's Gully
December 29, Greg Farrell (39) and
Brian Carlock, both experienced ice
climbers, were ascending O’Dell’s
Gully at 0815 in preparation for a trip
to Mount Katahdin. Part of their
training was to climb Pinnacle and
0 915
O’Dell’s in a day and employ the
Fall on Icy Rock—Blown Over by Wind, 1999
Wyoming, Grand Teton
Wyoming, Grand National
Teton Park, Grand
National Teton
Park,
Grand Teton
On June 25, James McDonald, Larry
Susanka and Dan Sola (38) were
attempting to climb the Exum Ridge of
the Grand Teton in icy conditions with
a storm in progress. Around 1430
Sola fell about ten feet while leading
0 916
the Friction Pitch. Sola was wearing
 Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone, Wyoming, 1999
Grand Wyoming,
Teton National Park,
Grand Symmetry
Teton Spire
National Park,
Symmetry Spire
On October 12 at 1600, I received a
call from Barbara Lachmar of Logan,
UT, who stated that her husband Tom
Lachmar (45) had not returned from a
climbing trip to the Tetons. She was
only able to give me information on
0 917
the vehicle he was driving, and that
Fall on Rock, Equipment Failure—Gri-Gri,
1999Texas,Texas,
BartonBarton
Creek Creek
The climbing accident concerning the
failed Gri-Gri occurred on October 3rd
at the cliffs along Barton Creek, near
Austin. The climb is called Cyborg,
and rated 5.11c; however, I was
beyond the crux when I fell. My thigh
slammed into a tree 20 feet below the
0 918
overhang from which my fingers came
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, Climbing
1999 Unroped-No Equipment,
North Carolina, TableNorth Carolina,
Rock Table Rock Mounta
Mountain
On July 19 a hiker turned climber fell
after scrambling in the vicinity of the
Wasp (5.7). He fell approximately 30
to 40 feet, sustaining severe head
injuryand assorted trauma. After
considerable effort he was evacuated
by North Carolina Outward Bound
0 919
School personnel and Burke County
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, Inadequate
1999 Protection, North Carolina,
North Carolina, Table Mountain,
Table Rock Rock Mountain, Slipping
Slipping Into Darkness
On November 1, M. H. (mid 40s) and
his two sons (7 and 14) attempted the
route slipping into Darkness (5.9), a
variation on Helmet Buttress. M. H.
was leading and placed his first piece
within the first 50 feet of the climb. He
0 920
fell well above his last piece of
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, No Hard
1999Hat, North
NorthCarolina,
Carolina,Table
Table Rock Mountain,
Rock Helmet Buttress
Mountain,
Helmet Buttress
Two climbers a male, B. D. (26) and
female, JD (20s) were attempting
Helmet Buttress (5.6) on September
2. J. D. was belaying B. D. on the first
pitch, which includes a traverse. B. D.
fell at the end of the traverse. His feet
0 921
were level with his last piece of
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Route, Inadequate
1999 Belay and
Oregon, Protection,
Smith RocksNo Hard Hat, Poor Position, Oreg
Bill Pesklak (39) and his partner Brian
Boshart (25) were working on
Titanium Jag, a 5.10b, assigned two
stars, an average quality route, by
Alan Watts, author of Climber's Guide
to Smith Rock. Both men had attained
a small ledge about 80 feet up the
0 922
route. With Boshart belaying, Pesklak
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate (No) Belay, Miscommunication,
1999 Colorado, Colorado, Rocky Mountain
Rocky Mountain National Park, Lum
National
Park, Lumpy Ridge
On August 9, Stewart Ritchie (38) fell
60 feet from the top of the route
Ziggie’s Day Out (I, 5.10b) on
Checkerboard Rock at Lumpy Ridge.
Ritchie had completed his lead of the
route, and clipped a second rope that
0 923
he had been trailing through the top
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, No1999
Hard Hat,Nevada,
Nevada,Red
Red Rocks
Rocks Canyon
CanyonNational Conservation Are
National
Conservation Area, Lost Creek
On December 5, C. A. and a friend,
both visiting from Austria, were
climbing in the Lost Creek area of the
Red Rock Canyon Conservation Area.
At 1640 C. A. (19) began climbing in a
corner to the right of Little Big Horn.
0 924
C. A., who was not wearing a helmet,
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection—Rappel
1999 Anchor (Pitons) Came
On December 16,Out
Tom New Hampshire,
Douglas (26) Cannon Cliff
and I (29) hiked up to the base of
Cannon Cliff to climb Black Dike, a
moderate four-pitch mixed rock and
ice climb. Finding a line of climbers
waiting for the Dike, we decided
instead to climb a harder line just to
the right, called Fafnir. While following
0 925
the final pitch (almost completely rock
Fall on Rock, Party Separated, Exceeding
1999
Abilites,Colorado,
Colorado,Quandry
Quandry Mountain
Mountain
On September 6, two climbers, a
woman named Sunny (40) and her
companion, a man (42), were
ascending the Class 4 West Ridge on
Quandry Mountain when Sunny
slipped on loose rock and fell 300 feet
down a couloir. The victim was
0 926
attended to by nearby medical
Fall on Rock-Cam Hook Came Off, No 1999Hard Hat,Utah,
Inadequate Protection,
Zion National Utah,Forbidden
Park, Zion National Park, Forbid
Wall
On December 27, V G. (25) and L. E.
(20) obtained a backcountry permit to
climb Moonlight Buttress. Whether
they couldn’t find their intended route
or changed their minds is unknown,
but the two instead began an
0 927
unnamed/un- known route on
Fall on Rock—Foot Hold Broke Off, Protection
1999 Pulled,
Idaho,Idaho, Sawtooth
Sawtooth Wilderness, Grandjean Peak
Wilderness,
Grandjean Peak
On August 29, Mick Riffie and myself
(we are both from Boise, Idaho) were
attempting a new route on the
Northeast Face of Grandjean Peak in
the
Sawtooth Wilderness in Idaho. The
0 928
route consisted of about 2000 feet of
very moderate climbing on granite
(about 1000 feet of 5.3-5.4 slabs, 500
 Fall on Rock—Hand-Hold Broke Off, Nevada,
1999 Red Rock National
Nevada, Conservation
Red Rock National Area, Magic Bus
Conservation Area, Magic Bus
About noon on April 18, L.C., an
experienced local climber (25), was
leading Blonde Dwarf (5.10) on the
Magic Bus, in the Red Rock Canyon
National Conservation Area. He was
15 to 20 feet above his last protection
0 929
and very close to the final anchors
Fall on Rock—Hand-Hold Came Off, Inadequate
1999 Protection,
North No Hard
Carolina, Hat, North
Crowders Carolina, Crowders Mou
Mountain
State Park, Gumby Roof
On June 14 at 12:55 p.m. I was
informed that Gaston County Sheriffs
Department had received a 911 call
from a cellular telephone that a
climber had fallen in the Gumby Roof
area. I proceeded there and met
0 930
Gaston EMS and Chapel Grove
Fall on Rock—Probably Loose Rocks, Wyoming,
1999 Grand Teton
Wyoming, National
Grand Park,
Teton Baxter'sPark,
National Pinnacle
Baxter’s Pinnacle
On August 14 around 1745, Jason
Coles reported an injured climber near
the base of the rappel at Baxter’s
Pinnacle. He stated the victim fell 120
feet and sustained a head injury and
numerous other injuries. Rangers
0 931
conducted a 2,000 foot technical
Fall on Rock—Protection Pulled Out, Late
1999Start-Darkness, North Carolina,
North Carolina, SauartownSauartown Mountain
Mountain
In early May, two male climbers (22
and 21) started a route at Sauartown
Mountain late in the day. The leader
placed a cam and a stopper prior to
clipping the first bolt on route. After
clipping the bolt, the pair decided to
back off the route because of
0 932
approaching darkness. The leader
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Equipment, Climbing
1999 Alone, Wyoming,
Wyoming, GrandGrand
TetonTeton National
National Park, Disappoint
Park,
Disappointment Peak
On July 11, Joe Zitomer and Melynda
Cable stopped at the Jenny Lake
Rescue Cache to report possible cries
for help coming from Disappointment
Peak. Zitomer and Cable had hiked to
Amphitheatre Lake, arriving between
0 933
1500 and 1530, when they heard the
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Inadequate
1999 Protection,
Colorado,Exceeding Abilites,National
Rocky Mountain Colorado, Rocky Mountai
Park, Long's Peak
On September 19, at 0930, Mike Riter
(23) and partner Simeon Bateman
(24) were ascending Lamb’s Slide on
the east face of Long’s Peak with
intentions of doing the Kiener’s Route
to the summit. Both men were
0 934
wearing crampons and using single
 Fall on Snow/Ice, Washington 1999 Washington
Two climbers requesting a rescue for
a third team member on Liberty Ridge
contacted Mount Rainier National
Park early on June 16th. The injured
climber, Talbot (60), had severely
broken his lower leg during a 200-foot
fall while descending the route.
0 935
Unable to down-climb, his partners
Falling Ice, No Hard Hat, Climbing Alone,
1999Vermont, Smuggler's
Vermont, Notch Notch
Smuggler’s
On December 30, a man (41) was five
or six feet off the ground on a climb
when he was struck by a piece of
falling ice three feet in diameter. He
was knocked off his ice route and fell
an additional 30–40 feet down-slope.
He suffered lacerations, a concussion
0 936
and multiple skull fractures.
Falling on Rocks—Dislodged by Climber,1999Washington, North Cascades,
Washington, Mount Logan
North Cascades, Mount
Logan
On Labor Day weekend, Silas Wild
and I climbed the east ridge of
Thunder Peak, a satellite of Mount
Logan in the North Cascades. On
Saturday, we hiked over Easy Pass,
down Fisher Creek and up a steep
0 937
forested slope to a 5200 foot lake
Falling Rock, New Hampshire, Cannon 1999
Cliff, Sam's
New Swan Song
Hampshire, Cannon Cliff, Sam’s
Swan Song
On May 17, John Bouchard and Mark
Richey were climbing fast in
preparation for an attempt on the
Himalayan peak Latok. High on the
cliff, Mark was climbing second to
John when a large flake Mark had his
0 938
arm behind detached from the cliff.
Falling/Dislodged Rock, Wyoming, Wind 1999
River Range,
Wyoming,Easy Wind
Day Peak
River Range, Easy
Day Peak
On August, 9 at 1100, while following
the first Pitch of the North Face route
on Easy Day Peak (11,660 feet), Mark
Gallagher pulled a large block off onto
himself, and sustained injuries to both
of his lower legs. His climbing partner,
0 939
David Oka, lowered Gallagher to a
HAPE and HACE, Washington, Mount 1999 Rainier Washington, Mount Rainier
While spending the night on the
summit of Mount Rainier, off duty
climbing rangers Gauthier and
Patterson were contacted by the
leader of a scientific research team,
who informed them that one of his
team members was suffering from
0 941
mountain sickness. The rangers found
 Rappel Error—Anchor Sling Knot Came 1999
Undone,North
NorthCarolina,
Carolina, Pilot Mountain
MountainState
StatePark
Park
On February 1, Joel McSwain (21) fell
in the Amphitheater area while
attempting to rappel after setting up a
top rope anchor. According to his
climbing partners, he was beginning
his descent when the web sling
0 942
securing his rappel rope to the anchor
Rappelled Off End of Rope – No Knot and 1999Miscalculation,
On FebruaryDarkness
18, M.Utah, ZionD.
C. and National
G. Park, Moonlight
(ages unknown) began an ascent of
Moonlight Buttress (V 5.9 Cl). They
planned to climb three pitches to the
“Rocker Block,” fix lines to the ground,
then finish the route the following day.
As a result of a late start, they didn’t
get to the anchors until dark. M. C.
0 943
fixed their first 60 meter rope and
Rappelled Off End of Rope—Technique1999 (Speed and Control),
North North
Carolina, Carolina,
Pilot PilotState
Mountain Mountain State Park
Park
On January 1 Nathan Lane (23), with
the U.S. Army, was being video taped
in the Amphitheater to see how fast
he could descend via “Australian
Rappel” (face first). Witnesses on the
scene described the climber as “out of
0 944
control” as soon as he began his
Slip on Snow—Unable to Self Arrest, Roped,
1999 Poor Position, Instructor
Washington, Not FamiliarSaska
North Cascades, with Route, Washingt
Peak
While participating in a climb of Saska
Peak on Day 17 of a Pacific Crest
Outward Bound sea/mountain course,
a female student (c. 20) slipped and
fell on a small snow slope and was
unable to self-arrest. She fell 450 feet
0 945
and came to rest on a rock. The
Stranded, Exceeding Abilities, Inadequate
1999
Clothing, Darkness,
Nevada, RedWeather, Nevada,National
Rock Canyon Red Rocks Canyon Natio
Conservation Area, White Rock
Springs
Late on the morning of December 21,
T. W. (13) andJ P. (18) began
climbing Tunnel Vision (III, 5.7) on the
Angel Food Wall. Darkness found
them at the bottom of the fifth pitch in
1 946
the mouth of the “tunnel.”
Stranded, Party Separated, Failed to Follow
1999Route,Colorado,
ExceedingRocky
Abilities, Colorado,
Mountain Rocky Mountain Nation
National
Park, Notchtop
On August 21, Wes Oren (age
unknown) had completed an ascent of
the Spiral Route (III, 5.4) on Notchtop
with two companions. At 2030, Oren
separated from his companions while
searching for the proper descent, a
1 947
fourth class gully. Oren ended up
 Stranded—Exceeding Abilities, Inadequate
1999Clothing, Nevada,
Nevada, Red Red Rock
Rock CanyonNational
Canyon National Conservation A
Conservation Area, Juniper Canyon
On April
New York,12,Mohonk
S. L., A.Preserve,
M., G. W. and C.
J., all visiting from
Shawangunks Canada,
...The set off to
most interesting
climb Black Dagger (III,
accident from this area for this 5.7) in Juniper
year
Canyon. The party had come
was one that involved two climbers to Red
Rock intending toUsing
simul-rappelling. climb thethissame
route.
Darkness found them stuck
rope, they had apparently not used on a a
0 948
ledge, possibly off route, with
knot, and as he was heavier than she
Rappel Failure, New York, Mohonk Preserve,
1999 Shawangunks
and the rope did not reach the
ground, he fell 25 feet to the deck.
The other victim fell 40 feet, also off
the end of her rope, to the deck. They
got away with only a few fractures.
(Source: From the annual report
submitted by the Mohonk Preserve
0 949 and Jed Williamson)
Avalanche — Alaska, Wrangell St. Elias2000
NationalAlaska,
Park andWrangell
Preserve,St.
University Range
Elias National
Park and Preserve, University Range
James Haberl (41) from Whistler, BC,
Keith Reid, and Graeme Taylor were
climbing in the University Range of
Wrangell St. Elias National Park and
Preserve. The climbers were dropped
off by Ultima Thule Outfitters on April
0 950
25 at the 6,000-foot level of a glacier
Avalanche, Inexperience — British Columbia,
2000 Mount Robson
British Provincial
Columbia, Mount Park, Mount Robson
Robson
Provincial Park, Mount Robson
K.G. and M.J. (both 19) were in a
party of four climbers who were
camped near the Dome, a feature
near the base of the Kain Face on
Mount Robson. They left their
basecamp at 0600 on August 15 to
0 951
climb the Kain Face while the other
Cornice Failure — Alberta, Jasper National
2000Park, Alberta,
ColumbiaJasper
Icefield, Mount Andromeda
National Park,
Columbia Icefield, Mount Andromeda
At approximately 0230 on May 30,
two climbers (22 and 23) departed the
climbers’ parking lot to ascend the
Skyladder route on Mount
Andromeda. Later that morning, they
overtook another climbing party of
0 952
three from Seattle near the top of the
Exceeding Abilities — Off Route, Inadequate
2000 Equipment
Alaska, and Water,
Mount Hypothermia, Frostbite — Alaska, M
McKinley
On May 3, the Densan party from
Great Britain arrived at Kahiltna
basecamp, 7,200 feet on the Kahiltna
Glacier. The three members of this
expedition were Steve Ball (42),
Antony Hollingshead (33), and Nigel
Vardy (29). The team spent an
0 953
average amount of time working their
 Fall in Crevasse — Alberta, Jasper National
2000 Park,Alberta,
Columbia Icefield
Jasper National Park,
Columbia Icefield
At 1840 on August 5, two climbers
came off the Columbia Icefield to
report that two members of their party
of ten were injured and needed
helicopter evacuation. All members
were Russian Canadian and were
0 954
planning to travel down the Columbia
Fall into Crevasse, Exceeding Abilities 2000
— Alaska,Alaska,
Mount McKinley, West Buttress
Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
On the morning of July 5 at
approximately 0100 the “Death March
2000” expedition left basecamp to
begin a climb of Mount McKinley. At
0330 Kelly Thomas (35) fell into a
crevasse on the main Kahiltna Glacier
0 955
at 6,800 feet. Thomas initially fell only
Fall on Ice, Climbing Unroped, and Stranded,
2000 Inexperience — Alberta,
Alberta, Jasper JasperPark,
National National Park, Columbia Ice
Columbia Icefield, Mount Athabasca
On July 19, a party of two (both 38)
were ascending the Northeast Ridge
of
Mount Athabasca, when they
encountered technical, exposed
terrain. One was hesitant about
1 956
climbing through this section, so the
Fall on Ice, Equipment Failure — Alberta,
2000
Banff National
Alberta, Park,
BanffMount Aberdeen
National Park, Mount
Aberdeen
On August 20, L.S. (40) was guiding
K.B. (61) on Mount Aberdeen. They
reached the toe of the Aberdeen
Glacier at approximately 0700. They
moved together on a two-meter short-
rope up 50 meters of firm snow and
0 957
started to traverse 25-degree ice to
Fall on Rock — Misjudged Pendulum — 2000
California, YosemiteYosemite
California, Valley, ElValley,
CapitanEl
Capitan
On June 28, Mario (42), Peter (30),
and Gilbert (40), all from Austria, were
in their second day on the Nose (34
pitches, VI 5.11 A2), and preparing to
make the King Swing—the long
pendulum left from Boot Flake (pitch
0 959
18). Peter led across, followed by
Fall on Rock, Failed to Follow Route, Inadequate
2000 Protection, Rocky
Colorado, No Hard Hat — Colorado,
Mountain NationalRocky Mountain
Park, Hallett Peak
On July 28, Frederick Sperry (28) was
attempting to lead the second pitch of
the Culp Bossier Route (III, 5.8) on
Hallett Peak. Sperry should have
followed the crack starting off the left
side of the ledge, but instead he
0 960
started off route from the center of the
 Fall on Rock, Handhold Pulled — Alberta,
2000MountAlberta,
Laurie (Yamnuska)
Mount Laurie (Yamnuska)
On September 17, C.H. and C.S.
were climbing “Grillmair Chimney”
(5.5) on
Mount Laurie. C.S. was leading the
fourth pitch when he pulled out a rock
the size of a microwave. He fell
approximately 5–7 meters with the
0 961
rock and was caught by his belayer.
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay — Colorado,
2000 Rocky Mountain
Colorado, National
Rocky Park, The
Mountain Book
National
Park, The Book
On June 28 at 1015, Dale Yang (31)
fell while leading the first pitch of the J
Crack (III, 5.9) on The Book
formation. Yang’s belayer, Lance
Polonbo, released the belay to brace
himself for the fall. Polonbo then
0 962
unsuccessfully attempted to re-grab
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay — Rope2000Too Short, Inattention
California, — California,
Yosemite Yosemite
Valley, ManureValley, Manure P
Pile Buttress
I’d like to say it was a cold, blustery,
winter day and our heads were foggy
and our brains numb from the bitter
temperatures. And I’d like to blame
that on our accident, but I can’t. It
was, in fact, May 25, a beautiful,
0 963
warm and sunny day, and we had
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection — 2000
Knot Pulled Through Yosemite
California, Bolt Hanger — California,
Valley, El Yosemite Valley,
Capitan
On October 27, Jim Fisher (30) and I,
Scott Earnest (27), set out to climb
Lurking Fear (20 pitches, VI 5.10 A3),
our first El Cap route. We reached
Thanksgiving Ledge in the afternoon
of the 27th, and I began leading pitch
0 964
18.
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Protection
2000 Pulled Out, Overconfidence
California, — California,
Yosemite Valley, El Yosemite Valle
Capitan
Dave and I (Rob) had been planning
to climb the Nose of El Cap (34
pitches, Grade VI, 5.11, A2) for the
past year. Together we had 24 years
of climbing experience, including
many traditional 5.10 and 5.11 leads
0 965
and a couple of Yosemite walls, so we
Fall on Rock, Loose Rock, Fatigue — Alberta,
2000 Banff National
Alberta, Park,
Banff MountPark,
National Victoria
Mount
Victoria
I (35) was climbing with two friends,
H.N. (32) and E.D. (26) on August 28.
We departed from the Abbot Pass Hut
early Saturday morning to attempt a
south to north traverse of Mount
Victoria. The weather and conditions
0 966
were excellent, and we were equipped
 Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, Protection Pulled,
2000 Inexperience — Ontario,
Ontario, Milton, KelsoMilton,
CragsKelso Crags
On Sunday, August 15 P.D. (36) of
Tonawanda, New York, began leading
a 5.3 one-pitch route. He placed only
sparse protection. Part way up, he
switched to a nearby 5.6 route. After
running into difficulties, he decided to
back off. He slipped while down-
0 967
climbing, pulled out his top piece of
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out — California,
2000 Yosemite Valley,
California, El Capitan
Yosemite Vailey, El
Capitan
In the afternoon of September 9, Russ
Fields (29), Bob Dunahue (36), and
Bill Hesse (27) reached Long Ledge
on the Salathe Wall (35 pitches,
Grade VI).
Russ had the next lead, pitch 33; the
0 968
topo shows it starting as Al, then
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No2000
Hard HatColorado,
— Colorado,
finishing Rocky
asRocky
5.8 Mountain
Mountain
face National Park, The Book
National
climbing.
Park, The Book
On February 6 at 1600, Kevin Hare
(19) was leading the 5.9 traverse pitch
near the top of J Crack (III, 5.9) on
The Book formation. One of Hare’s
feet slipped on the face climbing
section of the traverse pitch. He
0 969
suffered a lead fall, swinging left, back
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled, Exceeding
2000Abilities — California,
California, Yosemite
Yosemite Valley,
Valley, Middle Cathedral Ro
Middle
Cathedral Rock
On October 10, Dan Goriesky (43) set
out to lead Pee Pee Pillar (a one
pitch,
5.10a) with his friends Josh Vendig
and Randy Dewees. The rating was
just above Dan’s comfort level, but the
0 970
pitch was easily protected, and he
Fall on Rock, Rope Severed by Falling Rock
2000 — Alaska,
Alaska,Portage
PortageGlacier
Glacier
I am sorry to report the death of Steve
Garvey (40) on August 13. He was
well known, experienced, and a much-
liked Alaskan climber. Garvey, as he
was known by all, was a friend of
AMRG, a close personal friend, an
occasional climbing partner and a
0 971
seven-year employee of my company.
Fall on Rock, Wrong Route, Inappropriate
2000
Equipment — Alberta,
Alberta, Banff National
Banff National Park, Castle Mountain
Park, Castle
Mountain
On July 27 a party of two began
climbing what they thought was the
popular Brewers Buttress route, II,
5.6. Unfortunately, they were one
buttress too far to the north. On the
first pitch, the leader fell about 20
0 972
meters with his belayer stopping him
 Fall on Snow — Unable to Self Arrest, 2000Party Separated, Exceeding
California, MountAbilities
Shasta,— California, Mount Shasta,
Hotlum/Bolum Ridge
On September 12, a team of four
climbers was descending the
Hotlum/Bolum Ridge. Two of the team
went ahead to scout the descent
route. One member, Rene “Red”
Arnold Cuestas (32), did not return.
0 973
After waiting an hour, the three
Fall on Snow, AMS — Alaska, Mount McKinley,
2000 West Buttress
Alaska, Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
The Denali Ski “Challenge 1999”
expedition from Italy included skier
Mauro Rumez and photographer
Franco Toso. Their plan was to climb
Denali by the West Rib and have
Toso photograph Rumez as he skied
0 974
the route.
Fall on Snow, No Helmet, Climbing Alone 2000— British Columbia,
British Kootenay
Columbia, National
Kootenay Park, Mount Stanley
National
Park, Mount Stanley
On August 6 a climber was reported
overdue from a solo attempt on the
Kahl route, a popular snow and ice
alpine climb. He had been dropped off
at 0600 at the trailhead and had been
expected back by evening. The
0 975
Warden Service was contacted at
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self Arrest, No2000Belay —Alaska,
Alaska, Mount McKinley,
McKinley, West
WestButtress
Buttress
A three-person Spanish expedition
named “McKinley 99” began their
expedition on May 3 from the 7,200-
foot basecamp on the Kahiltna
Glacier. Expedition members included
Luis Ibanez (leader), Francisco Mira
0 976
(33), and Jose Sanchez (39). They
Falling Ice, Fall on Ice — Alberta, Banff 2000
NationalAlberta,
Park, Mount
BanffWilson, OhPark,
National Le Tabernac
Mount
Wilson, Oh Le Tabernac
On March 17 the lead climber of a
party of two was ten meters up the
first pitch of Oh Le Tabernac, a water
ice Grade 5+ route. He was just
above his second screw when he
heard a cracking noise. He told his
0 977
belayer about it just as the ice he was
Falling Ice, Fall on Ice, Ice Screw Failed2000
Alaska, Thunder
On May Mountain
12 Malcolm Daly (43) and
Jim Donini (57) of Boulder, Colorado
flew onto the Tokositna Glacier at
7,500 feet to attempt a new route on
Mount Hunter (14,573 feet). The
Colorado team spotted a potential
route on Thunder Mountain (10,970
feet)—a satellite of Mount Hunter—
0 978
which has a short approach from the
 Falling Ice, Poor Position Alberta, Banff2000
National"On
Park,January
Mount Wilson, Ice Nine
24 a party of three had
begun the first of pitch Ice Nine, a
water ice Grade 6 route. One climber
was leading, one was belaying from
behind the curtain of the first pitch and
the third climber was sitting on her
pack watching the leader climb. When
the leader was about ten meters up
0 979
the pitch, a large hanging piece to the
Falling Rock — California, Yosemite Valley,
2000 Glacier Point Apron
California, Yosemite Valley, Glacier
Point Apron
After climbing in the Valley for a
couple of weeks, Peter Terbush (22),
Joseph Kewin (21), and Kerry Pyle
(20) were nearing the end of their
vacation. On June 13, in late
afternoon, they decided to climb
0 980
Apron Jam, a one pitch, 5.9 crack
Falling Rock, No Hard Hat — California, 2000
Kings Canyon National
California, Park,
Kings NorthNational
Canyon Dome
Park, North Dome
In mid-June, we—Brandon Thau (23),
Matthew Pollard (24), and Jennifer
Pollard (25)—completed a new route
up North Dome, topping out around
4:00 p.m. The climb had involved
hanging bivouacs. After repacking the
0 981
bags, we started our descent. We
Fatigue, Dehydration, Frostbite, Climbing
2000
Alone — Alaska,
Alaska, MountMcKinley,
Mount McKinley,West
West Buttress
Buttress
Tomoyasu Ishikawa (30) began his
solo ascent of Mount McKinley from
the Kahiltna Glacier on May 19. He
arrived at the 14,200-foot camp on the
21st where he planned to climb the
Messner Couloir. On May 24 at 1100,
0 982
he started his ascent of the couloir.
High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE)2000 — Alaska, Mount Mount
Alaska, McKinley, West Buttress
McKinley, West
Buttress
The “Kiwi Denali” expedition included
Richard Walshe, Andre Bell, Dave
McKinley, and Pete O’Connor. On
June 6 three of the members,
including Walshe, Bell, and O’Connor,
departed from the 17,200-foot camp
0 983
en route to the summit via the West
Illness — British Columbia, Glacier National
2000 Park, MountColumbia,
British Uto Glacier National
Park, Mount Uto
On August 28, five climbers were on
their way up the Southwest Ridge of
Mount Uto, a 5.1 rock climb. One of
the climbers, S.L. (F 45), developed
sudden acute and severe right lower
abdominal pain. The party managed
0 984
to get her to a ledge where D.B. (43),
 Illness — HACE, Exceeding Abilities, Ascending
2000 Too Fast —Mount
California, California, Mount
Shasta, Shasta,
Misery HillMisery Hill
On July 30, Ken Goldstein (25) had
stopped to rest at the base of Misery
Hill (13,000 feet) and was later
discovered unconscious and
unresponsive. USFS climbing rangers
were summoned. They administered
oxygen to him, as he had regained
0 985
consciousness. Goldstein was
Inadequate Food and Water, Climbing Alone
2000 — Alaska,
Alaska,Mount
MountMcKinley,
McKinley,WestWestButtress
Buttress
Shigeo Tamoi (33) began his solo
climb of Mount McKinley’s West
Buttress on May 28. He ascended to
the 14,200-foot camp in three days
and then he acclimatized for three
more days. On June 3 at 0700 Tamoi
0 986
attempted a one- day ascent from the
Inexperience, Failure to Turn Back — Alaska,
2000 Mount McKinley,
Alaska, Mount West Buttress
McKinley, West
Buttress
Mike McCarthy (32) faxed his Mount
McKinley climbing registration form to
the Talkeetna Ranger Station on
March 16. His climbing experience
consisted of three hikes up Long’s
Peak in Rocky Mountain National
0 987
Park. Ranger George Beilstein
Off Route, Inadequate Equipment, Climbing
2000 Alone, Weather,
Alberta, Inexperience
Jasper National— Alberta, Jasper National Par
Park,
Columbia Icefield, Mount Snowdome
J.R. (28) hitchhiked to the Columbia
Icefields on February 20, and hiked to
the base of the difficult and hazardous
alpine ice route “Slipstream” later that
day. At 0400 on February 21, J.R.
started climbing. Conditions were
0 988
good, and he reached the top of the
Protection Pulled Out When Weighted — 2000
Fall on California,
Rock, Trying to Stick to
Yosemite a Schedule
National — El
Park, California, Yosem
Capitan
Craig (25) had several years of free
climbing experience but little with aid.
On May 29, he and his partners, Brent
and Dave, decided to get some
practice by climbing the first pitch (A3)
of the Sea of Dreams, a Grade VI
0 989
route on El Capitan.
Protection Pulled, Off Route — Alberta,2000
Ha Ling Alberta,
Peak (Formerly
Ha Ling Known
Peak as Chinaman's Peak)
(formerly
known as Chinaman's Peak)
On July 6, two climbers set out on the
Northeast Ridge of Ha Ling Peak (5.6/
5.7). The climbers got off route on the
third or fourth pitch, and discovered
by the sixth pitch that the climbing
was much more difficult than 5.7, the
0 990
protection was next to none, and the
 both climbers were hypothermic, with
frost nip on their hands and feet.
Despite their condition, they managed
to climb the rescue team's ropes to
the summit.
Rappel Error — Slack in Rope, Fall on 2000
Rock — Colorado,
Colorado,
Analysis Rocky
Rocky Mountain
Mountain National
National Park, Twin Owls
Park, Twin
Justin Owls had experience in
and Luke
On Junealpine
stormy 25 Todd Burke
weather had
and led the
knew that
first pitch
storms wereof Organ
common Pipes (II, 5.6) on
in Yosemite,
the they
but Twin hadOwlsnot formation.
expectedHe to then
pulled the rope up
encounter ice on the summit through allslabs.
pieces
of protection and threw
("Staying Alive," the safety chapterone end of the
in
rope down to Claudine
the Yosemite climbing guide, which Perrault (29).
0 991
The
they plan was for
had read, Perrault
states, to attach
"Temperatures
Rappel Error — Uneven Rope Ends, Fall 2000
on RockHigh
— High
EagleEagle Dome,
Dome, ShuteyeRidge,
Shuteye Ridge, California
may drop, freezing solid the next
California
pitch....") May and June bring plenty
On October 31, after setting up a
of serious storms in the park, and any
toprope, I (45) tossed down it down
face climbing pitch may become
and rappelled. About two thirds of the
impassable due to water or ice. Half
way down the route, I saw one taped
Dome is particularly prone to winter
end of the rope slipping through my
conditions. At 8842 feet, its summit
rappel device, an image I will
0 992 rises almost a mile above the Valley
remember forever. I fell 20–25 feet to
Rockfall, Poor Position, Poor Judgment2000 floor.
— Alberta,
Alberta,The
Jasper weather
National
Jasper is equivalent
Park,
National MountPark, Edithto Cavell
Mount that
in the high
Edith Cavell country, with occasional
blizzards,
On Augustice-and20, tworescues-even
climbers (F 43, in M
August.
54) began ascending the North Face
Claims
route onofMount
waterproof
Edith breathable
Cavell. They fabric
(Goretex
began at 1500and otheron a brands)
hot day,leaking,
when
whether
rock fall istrue or not,
at its worst. areOne commonof the
among wall climbers. Even
climbers was hit directly on the head with
0 993 coated nylon bottoms, bivyhersacks are
by a large rock, knocking
Slip on Rock, Unroped, No Hard Hat —2000
Ontario, notoriously
Milton, Buffalo
Ontario, poorCrag
Milton, Buffalo
sheltersCrag in wet
On Sunday,There
conditions. Marchare 28justF.M. too(26)
manywas
scouting
ways for out
water thetocliff
findtopits at
way Buffalo
inside.
Crag,closest
The apparently
thing hoping to set up a
to a fool-proof
top ropeison
shelter a climb
a well called portaledge
designed “Rainy Day
Women.”
in He had on
good condition, witha harness
properly but sealed
was
seams.not tethered to an anchor. About
1300 he wasaided
Two factors seen their
falling, trying first
survival. First,
0 994
to clutch at rocks and
and most important, friends knew cedars, then
Stranded - Weather, Inadequate Equipment,
2000Hypothermia — California, Yosemite Valley, Half Dome
where they were. Second, the clouds
broke enough for the NPS to fly. A
ground approach-an eight-mile uphill
hike in the snow-would have taken the
rescue team several more hours,
leaving Justin and Luke on the wall
into the next night. (Source: John Dill,
0 996 NPS Ranger, Yosemite National Park)
Weather — British Columbia, Comox, Mount
2000 Alber-Edward
British Columbia, Comox, Mount
Albert-Edward
Three climbers were reported overdue
on September 17. They had been
attempting a four- to five-day traverse
which involved glacier travel in the
Mount Albert-Edward area in the
Comox region of Vancouver Island.
0 998
After spending two extra days out due
 Weather, Inadequate Equipment, Inexperience
2000 — Alberta,
Alberta, Jasper
JasperNational
NationalPark,
Park,Mounts
MountsCharlton and Unw
Charlton and Unwin
On July 15, two inexperienced
climbers (both 25) climbed Mount
Charlton in the company of two
American climbers whom they met on
the mountain. In late afternoon, in
deteriorating weather, the
0 999
inexperienced pair continued from the
Avalanche, Poor Position — Known Avalanche
2000 Hazard — Wyoming,
Wyoming, GrandNational
Grand Teton Teton National
Park, Park, Mount
Mount Teewinot
On May 23 at 1300, Jackson climber
Phillip Jones arrived at the Jenny
Lake Ranger Station to report that his
climbing partner, Irene McManus, had
been swept 2,000 feet down the East
Face of Mount Teewinot by an
0 1000
avalanche. According to Jones,
Dropped Gear, Inadequate Fuel and Food,
2000
Weather, Dehydration,
Washington, Exhaustion
Mount — Liberty
Rainier, Washington, Mount Rain
Ridge
A cell phone call late June 30
revealed that Mike Matelich and Larry
Sverdrup were stranded on Liberty
Ridge and in need of assistance after
dropping one of their packs. The pack
was lost while breaking camp from an
1 1001
unplanned bivouac above Thumb
Exhaustion — Unable to Descend, Dehydration,
2000 Exceeding
Colorado,Abilities — Colorado,
Rocky Mountain Rocky Mountain Nation
National
Park, Longs Peak
On September 1, a Colorado
Mountain School guide reported to
park rangers that Tim Ashwood (40),
a climber with cerebral palsy who had
been on the Diamond of Longs Peak
for eight days, was ill and would need
0 1002
assistance in descending on the
Fall into Crevasse, Climbing Unroped, Weather
2000 — Washington,Mount
Washington, Mount Rainier,
Rainier, Muir
Muir Snowfield Paradise
Snowfield Paradise Glacier
On April 1, Michael Corroone (51) and
Dan Gallagher (36) set out to climb
Mount Rainier. Severe weather
prevented a summit attempt, and they
began descending back to Paradise
on April 12. High winds, low visibility
0 1003
and white- out conditions continued,
Fall on Hard Snow, Inexperience Oregon,
2000
South Cascades, Broken19
On September Top
in the Three Sisters
Wilderness area, Bonnie Lamb (39)
was ascending a volcanic talus and
scree ridge on Broken Top when she
came to a short, steep section of
surface-softened hard-snow near the
9,175 south summit. She slipped and
rocketed about 300 yards down the
0 1004
slope coming to a stop in the rough
 Fall on Ice, Climbing Alone and Unroped 2000
— Washington, MountMount
Washington, Rainier, Gibraltar
Rainier, Ledge
Gibraltar
Ledge
On March 21, E. Dawes Eddy (56) fell
1600 feet while soloing the Gibraltar
Ledge route on Mount Rainier. A four-
person climbing team on the same
route witnessed the accident and
subsequent tumble down the 40–50-
0 1005
degree icy Gibraltar Chute. Eddy’s fall
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Poor2000
Tool Placement, Exceeding
Colorado, Rocky Abilities
Mountain—National
Colorado, Rocky Mounta
Park, Hidden Falls
On December 20, Ben Johnson (21)
was leading Hidden Falls Left (I, WI,
3+) belayed by Krys Obrzut. Johnson
climbed the first steep step to the
ledge and placed the only screw he
used on the route. Johnson continued
0 1006
up the vertical face and was climbing
Fall on Ice, No Protection or Belay — Washington,
2000 Mount Rainier,
Washington, Cowlitz
Mount Cleaver
Rainier, Cowlitz
Cleaver
While searching for missing climbers
Chris Hartonas and Raymond Vakili
on November 15, three rescuers
sustained serious injuries after falling
off the Gibraltar Ledges route. Park
Ranger Asha Anderson and Rainier
0 1007
Mountaineering Guides Ashley
Fall on Rock — Rappelled off End of Ropes
2000 — North
NorthCarolina, Grandfather
Carolina, Mountain, Shiprock
Grandfather
Mountain, Shiprock
Okie McCornis (28) and his partner
spent July 17 climbing on Shiprock, a
popular climbing area located on
Grandfather Mountain’s East Side.
After ascending B.O.G. (5.11), both
climbers began their descent by
0 1008
rappelling from Boardwalk (5.8), a
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
2000 Inadequate Clothing,
New Mexico, Exceeding
Organ Abilities — New Mexico, Or
Mountains,
Organ Needle
On December 1 John Smith (name
changed) was reported overdue from
a solo climb of the 4th-class route up
the Organ Needle (9,012 feet).
Following a lengthy search, his body
was found at the base of a 60-foot
0 1009
frozen waterfall on the east side of
Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities, Failure
2000
to Follow Route,
North No Hard
Carolina, Hat — Glass
Looking North Carolina,
Rock, Looking Glas
Bloody Crack
In late November, two people began
climbing Bloody Crack (5.8), a popular
rock climb on the south side of
Looking Glass. The first pitch to Stage
Ledge was completed without
incident. One of the climbers was
0 1010
leading the second pitch when he
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Miscommunication
2000 — Washington,
Washington, Peshastin
Peshastin Pinnacles
Pinnacles
While I have no memory of this
accident, I have been able to
reconstruct the event based upon the
observations of my climbing partner,
Lynn. On May 22, she and I climbed
the Tunnel Route (5.6) on Orchard
Rock at Peshastin Pinnacles in
0 1011
eastern Washington. Upon reaching
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Exceeding
2000 Abilities — Washington,
Washington, North Cascades, Cutthroat Peak
North Cascades,
Cutthroat Peak
At 6:00 a.m. on July 17, five climbers
started on the South Buttress of
Cutthroat Peak. It was clear and
warm. The climb started across a
snow basin and up steep snow in the
highest gully. The group continued up
0 1012
some steep third- class rock to where
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Protection
2000 Pulled, Fatigue,
Vermont, Weather,
Nichol’s Inexperience — Vermont, Nicho
Ledge
On October 22, Ian (22) and Ryan
(23) were attempting to climb the first
pitch of a two-pitch route unfamiliar to
both. Ian was leading and Ryan was
belaying. The weather that day was
cloudy, cool (40s), and windy. The
first pitch of the climb appeared to be
0 1013
a short 40-foot section that ended at a
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self Arrest, Exceeding
2000 Abilities
Wyoming, — Wyoming, Grand
Grand Teton Teton National
National Park, Park, Mount
Mount Moran
Joseph Boots Allen, Justin
Watsabaugh and Micha Thompson
left a camp in a snow cave near the
base of the Skillet Glacier on Mount
Moran (12,605 feet) on June 20 at
0230. They climbed the glacier at
0 1016
night and reached the summit some
Fall on Snow, Weather — Unstable Snow 2000
Conditions, Faulty
Oregon, Use of
Mount Crampons
Hood, Cooper— Oregon,
Spur Mount Hood, C
Route
Carey Cardon (31) and his wife Tena
Cardon (29) were experienced
mountaineers training for a proposed
climb of Mt. McKinley. They started
climbing the
Cooper Spur at 0430 on May 23.
0 1017
They summited about 0800 via the
Fall on Step Ice While Skiing — Washington,
2000 Mount Rainier,
foot, Liberty
Washington,
2,000- MountRidge
Rainier,
50-degree snow Liberty
slope
Ridge
that capped the 4,500-foot route
A climber at Thumb Rock high camp
on the Liberty Ridge called Mount
Rainier National Park with a cell
phone on the evening of May 24 to
report that his climbing partner was
missing after a skiing accident en
0 1018
route. David Perrson (31) was
 Fall or Slip on Rock, Inadequate Equipment,
2000 Inadequate Protection,Looking
North Carolina, Failure to Follow
Glass Route, No Hard Hat
Rock,
The Nose
On June 19, Keith Ballencourt (30)
and two less experienced friends were
climbing The Nose (5.8), one of the
most popular routes on the mountain.
PW, a local guide, spoke with Keith,
who described himself as an
0 1019
experienced lead climber at Stone
Falling Ice — Unstable Route, Misjudged2000
Conditions
We hadUtah,aSastaquin Canyonspell
five-day warm
followed by a weak cold front for 36
hours prior to the climb. Overnight
temperatures had been well below
freezing, so the ice was brittle.
We climbed the approach pitch to the
first ledge. From here we could see
the pillar hung mostly free for about
0 1020
50 feet, almost touching the ground. A
Falling Rock — Block Pulled Off — New 2000
Mexico, NewSandia Mountain
Mexico, Wilderness,
Sandia Mountain Hail Peak
Wilderness, Hail Peak
After breakfast and coffee, Sinjin
Eberle and I set out to have a nice
day for a multi pitch 5.8 climb of Hail
Peak on May 9, Mother’s Day. The
weather was warm and stable with a
storm possibly moving in later that
0 1021
evening. The Sandias typically keep
Falling Rock — Dislodged by Climber, 2000
Failure toColorado,
Test HoldsRocky
— Colorado, Rocky
Mountain Mountain National Park
National
Park, Little Twin Owls
On August 7 at 1900, Bryan Pollack
(36) was ascending the Descent
Route (I, 5.2) on Little Twin Owls
formation to place a top rope set up
on the Finger Crack. Approximately
ten feet above a ledge, Pollack pulled
0 1022
out a block of rock weighing about 40
Falling Rock, Failure to Test Holds, Leader's
2000 Lapse LeadUinta
Utah, to Misjudgment
Mountains— Utah, Uinta Mountains — Be
– Between
Gunsight Pass and Kings Peak
On June 29, Lucy (42), a beginning
climber, was climbing above the
leader (71) on an ascent near Kings
Peak. She tried to stand on a
precarious cluster of rocks and
managed to dislodge four of them,
0 1023
varying in weight from an estimated
Lightning Wyoming, Grand Teton 2000
Around 1130 on August 5, Ranger
Janet Wilts and Chris Goodhue were
struck by lightning at the top of the
Friction Pitch of the Exum Ridge on
the Grand Teton. (Jan Cauthorn
Page, the third member of the team,
was not struck.) Wilts reported that
0 1026
the lightning entered her right elbow,
 Loose Rock Came Off — Failure to Test2000
Holds —Washington,
Washington, North
North Cascades
CascadesNational
National Park, Sahale Pea
Park, Sahale Peak
On June 19, a party of Everett
Mountaineers selected a non-
standard route up the West Face of
Sahale Peak. They were within 50
feet of the 8000-foot summit ridge
around 2030 when one of them
0 1027 New York, Mohonk Preserve,
grabbed a loose rock. It struck him in
Missing Climbers, Severe Weather — Washington,
2000 Shawangunks
Mount Rainier,
Washington, MountMuirRainier,
SnowfieldMuir
On October 14, Scott Ruit (29) fell
Snowfield
about 80 feet to(40)
Chris Hartonas his death while
and Raymond
attempting to rappel from Birdland.
Vakili (48) disappeared while climbing He
set up an extended
to Camp Muir on November 5.anchor using
webbing,
Hartonas weighted
and Vakiliit,were and experienced
the fall
began as the webbing
mountaineers and both men had came awaybeen
from the anchor.
to Camp Muir before. Hartonas was
0 1028 Analysis
an avid park visitor and mountain
Party Separated — Illness, Poor Planning
2000
and Logistics,
Ruit’s Miscommunication
Washington,
rope wasMount
found on—
Rainier,theWashington,
ground Mount Rainie
Muir
Snowfield Paradise Glacier
with carabiners attached to it. A piece
John Repka was
of unsecured nylon lastwebbing
seen alive was
descending
found hanging from the anchor.on
the Muir Snowfield When
May 16 during
Ruit went a planned
to weight the rope,day itclimb
with the group
apparently One Step
dropped throughAt atheTime25-
(OSAT). Repka fell behind
foot webbing, which Ruit probably the main
group because
thought was tied. heItwas feeling
did not ill,
appear
0 1029
vomiting
that thereand wasmoving
anything slowly
wrong Near
with
Rappel Error — Webbing Anchor Not Tied,
2000 Fall on Rock — New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks
the equipment or the fixed protection.
Ruit was described by locals as a
good friend and a competent climber
who was a cautious, experienced
climber and who did not push his
limits. (Source: Kirsten Conley, The
Times Herald, and the Mohonk
0 1030 Preserve annual report)
Rock Broke Off, Fall on Rock, Climbing2000
Unroped,Kentucky,
Failure to Red
Test River
Holds,Gorge
Inadequate
StateProtection, Inexperie
Park
On October 2, a climber (22) was on
top of Courthouse Rock looking for an
anchor
New placement
York, Mohonkfor rappelling. He
Preserve,
had his harness on but was unroped.
Shawangunks
He went
One cliff near
rescue thewasedge and the rock
performed on the
broke off
poplar underneath
climb “Hawk” (5.4) him, inresulting
the in
0 1031
his fall off
Trapps. Thetheleader
cliff ofhad
about 75 feet,
fallen on the
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection —2000
New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks
second pitch, and the old piton he had
clipped into pulled out of the rock.
Due to his ankle injury, the climber
needed to be lowered from the top of
the first pitch by litter. (Source: From
the annual report submitted by the
Mohonk Preserve and Jed
0 1032 Williamson)
 best, especially with blowing snow
and no radio communication between
air and ground teams.
Within 10 minutes the patient was
secured in the litter and hoisted out
AMS, Climbing Alone (Party Separated),
2001
Inexperience,
Alaska,
with Alaska,
one Mount Mount
PJ. Then McKinley,
McKinley,
the WestWest
second PJ was Buttress
Buttress
lifted out and the patient transported
The
to International
Providence Climbing
Hospital. Buddies
Ground teams
Expedition,
cleaned consisting
up the area and of Ralph
headed back
Nicholson,
to the staging James
area.Foutch
When andColtmanBrett
Johnson (35), reached the
arrived at Providence Hospital, he 17,200-
foot camp on
reportedly hadMay 27. temperature
a core On May 28, of
Nicholson
85 degrees F. and Foutch went to the
0 1034
summit.
Analysis Johnson felt he needed
AMS—Ascending Too Fast, Climbing "Alone"—But
2001 Depending
Alaska, Mount Upon Others,
McKinley, Alaska,
Denali Mount McKinley,
Pass
Terrain, weather, snow stability, and
On June 25 at 1940, Ranger Meg
human factors conspired to cause this
Perdue received a radio call from
accident. The terrain was steep and
Volunteer Ranger Karen Hilton at the
exposed. It afforded poor anchoring
17,200-foot high camp regarding a
for the thin, unstable slab created
solo climber
during the preceding night’s snowfall
who was non-ambulatory on the
and wind. What would be considered
traverse from Denali Pass. A guide
0 1035 a minor instability of little
there relayed to Hilton that he had
Avalanche, Fall on Snow and Rock, Poor
2001 consequence
Position—Unsafe on aYoho
Conditions, less exposed
British Columbia,slope
British Columbia,
been contacted via CB by aPark,Yoho National
National
radio
became critically
Mount Burgess important in the
more
On Aprilexposed gully.of
21, a party When
two hada small
slab dish-plated
ascended out from underneath
the south-facing,
the climber, it sentslopes
avalanche-prone him tumbling
of Mountover
rough
Burgess. terrain
Theand,
day waswithout
veryanwarm,
ice ax,
he was unable
resulting in onetoofarrest themajor
the first fall.
Overconfidence,
isothermal avalanche based uponof the
cycles
0 1036 experience on the same route under
spring. The party was descending
Avalanche, Fall on Snow, Inadequate Protection,
2001 Alberta,
Alberta, Jasper
different Jasper National
National
conditions, Park,
may Park,
alsoMount
Mount
have Woolley
Woolleya part. In summary, this was a
played
On November
minor 13 atin1000,
slab release a high-a party of
three (ages: 25,
consequence 26, 26)
terrain. set the
Luck, out cell
to
climb the
phone, theJapanese
helicopters,Couloir of Mount
the rescuers,
Woolley
and on a clear
Coltman’s morning
will power and with light
winds. They were climbing
toughness all contributed to his together,
equally
survival.spaced along a 50 meter by
0 1037
nine millimeter
(Source: Doug rope
Feslerwithandone
Jill ice
Avalanche—Unsafe Conditions, Weather,2001Poor Position, Inadequate Equipment—No Ice Ax, Alaska, Chu
Fredston, Alaska Mountain Safety
Center, Inc.) (Editor’s Note: This
hiking incident fell into the
climbing/mountaineering category
once Coltman entered the gully
containing unstable snow conditions.
It should be noted that Boozer was
0 1038 only slightly injured.)
Fall Into Crevasse, Alaska, Mount McKinley,
2001 Northwest
Alaska,Fork,
Mount Kahiltna Glacier
McKinley, Northwest
Fork, Kahiltna Glacier
On May 13, The Velvet Underground
Expedition, Courtland Shafer (33) and
Glenn and Morrison (40) began their
climb of Denali’s West Rib. On May
24, Shafer and Morrison were
camped at 11,000 feet near the base
0 1039
of the route. Shafer and Morrison had
 Fall on Ice, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
2001Alberta, Roche aRoche
Alberta, Perdix,aDrambuie Deamon
Perdix, Drambuie
Deamon
On December 16,1.R. attempted to
solo climb Drambuie Deamon, a 95-
meter water ice Grade 3 or 4 route,
depending on the chosen finish for the
climb. He had been climbing for two
years and had done the climb before.
0 1040
I.R. dropped his wife off in Hinton at
Fall on Ice, Climbing on Thin Ice Alberta,
2001Ghost River, The Sorcerer
On February 13, C.W. (26) and I,
M.H. (38), were climbing The
Sorcerer, a Grade V water ice climb.
The first pitch went up a thin, mid-
angled shield to a lower-angled dish
from which the line headed right
across slabby terrain and up to a
short, steep wall. The ice was in thin
0 1041
condition, but no thinner than other
Fall on Ice, Harness Came Off—Not Buckled
2001 Correctly
Quebec,andGatineau
Not ClipedPark,
in to Cabin
Leg Yokes, Quebec, Gatineau
Creek
Falls
On January 15, R.P. (48) began to
climb Cabin Creek Falls, a water ice
Grade 2 or 3 climb, depending on the
line taken. He was belayed on top-
rope by M.B. Both climbers had
previous ice climbing experience. The
0 1042
rope was tied with a figure eight knot
Fall on Ice, Protection Failure—Ice Ax 2001
Tool, Alberta, BanffBanff
Alberta, National Park,Park,
National Wicked Wanda
Wicked
Wanda
F.B. (32) was leading the crux pitch of
this water ice Grade 4+ route on
February 2. He was about three
meters above an ice mushroom
around which he had tied a sling. His
ice tool unexpectedly popped out of
0 1043
the ice, causing a large piece of ice to
Fall on Ice/Snow, Unroped, Poor Route2001
Choice, Haste, Alberta,
Alberta, Columbia
Columbia Icefield,
Icefield, MountMount Athabasca
Athabasca
On August 29 at 0500, F.W. (43), S.C.
(34), and U.T. (37) set out to climb the
North Face of Mount Athabasca. They
reached the summit at 1730 and
started to descend by the normal
route. The group found that their
0 1044
crampons were balling up with the wet
Fall on Rock, California, Yosemite Valley,
2001Half Dome
California, Yosemite Valley, Half
Dome
On August 4 about 0800, two climbers
reported to Ranger Steve Yu that one
member of their party of five Koreans
had broken his right leg in a fall the
previous day on the Regular
Northwest Face (VI 5.9 A2) of Half
0 1045
Dome. They had managed to move
 Fall on Rock, Carabiner Failure—Probably
2001Cross-Loaded, Alberta,
Alberta, Banff Banff National
National Park,ofBack of the Lake
Park, Back
the Lake
On July 29, A.L. was attempting to
redpoint “Howard the Duck”, a 5.1 la
sport rock climb at the Lake Louise
crags. He had clipped the first two
bolts and placed a quick-draw on the
third just below the crux. He felt
0 1046
unable to clip his rope into the third
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Poor Communication,
2001 California,
California, Yosemite
Yosemite Valley,
Valley, Lower Yosemite Falls
Lower
Yosemite Falls
On June 24, Raj Dhingra (39), my
brother Hugh (34), and I—Dan Sakols
(37)— decided to tackle Commitment
(three pitches, 5.9), one of the “Five
Open Books” west of Lower Yosemite
Falls. We got an early start to avoid
0 1048
the crowd and finished the first two
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Exceeding
2001 Abilities,
Ontario,Ontario,
Milton, Milton,
Buffalo Buffalo
Crag Crag
On Sunday, April 2, G.S. (56) was
leading Tapestry, a one-pitch 5.8 rock
climb. He placed good protection just
before setting outwards over a small
roof to tackle a thin crack on a bulge.
He got several meters higher when
his arms “burned out.” As the face
0 1049
was overhanging, he opted for a
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection—Belay
2001 Anchor, Inadequate
British Columbia,Belay, British Columbia,
Squamish, Sickle Squamish, Sick
Two climbers were ascending a route
called Sickle on the Apron on May 20.
They were anchored to a conifer tree,
about five to ten centimeters in
diameter and three meters tall. The
lead climber fell, pulling off the belayer
and the tree. They fell about 40
0 1050
meters and were caught by a clump of
Fall on Rock—Inadequate Hauling System,2001California, Yosemite
California, Valley,Valley,
Yosemite El Capitan
El
Capitan
On May 2, Jeff (40) and Don (20)
climbed the first two pitches of
Zenyatta Mondatta (VI 5.7 A5) on El
Capitan. They hauled most of their
gear and returned to the Valley for the
night, leaving their ropes fixed in
0 1052
place. The 60- meter lead rope,
Fall on Rock—No Belay, Lack of Communication,
2001 Alberta,Banff
Alberta, BanffNational
NationalPark,
Park, Back
Back ofof the Lake
the Lake
On June 17, two experienced sport
climbers were climbing a 25-meter,
5.11a route called Mardi Gras. G.H.
(36) had just finished the route on a
top rope, and yelled down, “Okay,”
thinking that he was going to be
0 1053
lowered by the belayer, T.G. (35). The
 Fall on Snow, Avalanche (Twice), Poor2001Position, Alberta,
Late Start, Inadequate
Lake Louise,Equipment—Stove,
Wapta Ice Field, Alberta, Lake
Peyto Glacier Approach
On March 19, Ken Fischer (32),
myself—Jonathan Fischer (29), and
my wife Carey (31) began what we
thought was to be a five day ski
traverse of the Wapta Icefield. Due to
logistical problems, we had gotten a
0 1055
late start and had started skiing at the
Fall on Snow, Fatigue, Inadequate Equipment,
2001 Alaska, Mount
Alaska, McKinley,
Mount West
McKinley, Buttress
West
Buttress
On May 16 at 1840, Christoph Haider
(24) fell from below Denali Pass while
descending the West Buttress route.
Ranger Kevin Moore and others
witnessed the fall and responded to
the scene where they assessed and
0 1056
stabilized Haider. Moore and
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Equipment, Placed
2001 No Protection,
California,No HardCrags
Castle Hat, Exceeding Abilities, California,
Wilderness
On March 23, John Stafford (17), who
had some training and experience in
rock climbing, made climbing the
focus of his senior project. Ian Smith
(18), who had no climbing experience,
came to take photos of John. After
taking the trail to the top of Castle
0 1057
Dome, they descended a snow
Falling Ice, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Mount
2001 Johnson
Alaska, Mount McKinley, Mount
Johnson
At 1500 on June 8, Jeff Benowitz (30)
and partner Chris Turiano (29) started
climbing a new route on the East
Buttress of Mt. Johnson. Turiano was
leading approximately 100 feet up the
route when falling ice struck his
0 1058
belayer,
Falling Ice, Poor Position, Alberta, Banff
2001
NationalAlberta,
Park, Louise
BanffFalls
National Park, Louise
Falls
On January 20, a number of parties
were climbing on this popular multi-
pitch water ice Grade 4+ climb near
Lake Louise. One of the parties high
on the route dislodged a large piece
of ice which hit S.G. He sustained
0 1059
crushing injuries to his left foot. He
Falling Rock California, Yosemite Valley,
2001El Capitan
On April 24, Cam Lawson (30) was
leading the sixth pitch of Iron Hawk, a
Grade VI route on El Capitan. This
pitch starts on the big ledge from
which the El Cap Tree grows. Jason
Kraus (29) was belaying from the
ledge, using a GriGri clipped to his
0 1060
harness. He was clipped directly to
 Falling Rock, Alberta, Banff National Park,
2001Mount Little Banff National Park, Mount
Alberta,
Little
On August 29, a party of four was
ascending the normal route on Mount
Little during an Association of
Canadian Mountain Guides Assistant
Alpine Guide exam. Two candidates
were roped together and a third was
0 1061
roped to the examiner. As they were
Falling Rock, Handhold Failed, Quebec,2001
Mont Gros Bras Mont Gros Bras
Quebec,
S.C. (25) and R.B. (29) were climbing
“Valerie Reverie”, a 5.8 route at Mont
Gros Bras. R.B. was leading the
chimney on the third pitch when he
pulled off a large rock which hit S.C.
on the left side of his back. R.B.
rappelled to the base of the route with
0 1062
S.C. and called for help on his cell
Falling Rock—Dislodged, Fall on Snow, 2001
No Belay or Protection,
Alberta, Alberta, Banff
Banff National Park,National
Mount Park, Mount Lef
Lefroy
On August 18, four climbers were
ascending the 45-degree snow-and-
ice route on Mount Lefroy. They were
traveling as two independent rope
teams, moving together with short
lengths of rope between the climbers.
0 1063
At 3400 meters, the route narrows
Falling Rock—Dislodged, No Hard Hat,2001Poor Position, California,
California, Yosemite
Yosemite Valley,
Valley, Sentinel Rock
Sentinel
Rock
On June 27, Jim Corpus (44) and
Mike Penner (45) climbed the Steck-
Salathe route (15 pitches, 5.9) on
Sentinel Rock. They summited at
sunset, took a break, and started
looking for the 3rd class descent gully
0 1064
after dark. Despite having headlamps,
Falling Rock—Handhold Came Off, Quebec,2001 Gatineau
Quebec,Park,Gatineau
Home Cliff
Park, Home Cliff
On April 15, several climbers were
top-roping on “Home Cliff” at the
Luskville Escarpment. C.M. (33) had
reached the top of his climb and was
making his way above the other
climbers over to one of the anchors.
There is a low angled slab above the
0 1065
middle route where the anchors are
Handhold Came Off—Failure to Test Hold,2001Fall on Rock, Climbing
Alberta, Unroped,Park,
Jasper National Alberta, Jasper National Par
Mount
Colin
On September 7, S.A. (35) and L.B.
(26) set out to climb Mount Colin by
the Southwest Face Direct route (III
5.7). The pair decided to solo the first
few 5.5 pitches to save time. At 0900,
one hour into the climb, S.A. was
0 1066
thrown out of balance when he
 Royal Arches Creek, but this was also
harder than 3rd class. He did not think
Dan would be able to follow, so he
turned back. They considered having
Peris solo up the ramp he had just
Handhold Came Off—Fall on Rock, Protection explored
2001 (Bolt) Pulled
Alberta, and
LadyOut,go for help,
Alberta,
MacDonald, but
Lady they
MacDonald,
Stoneworks Stoneworks
were
Crag almost out of daylight. They
chose,
On August instead,
4, S.to(20)stickwas together,
climbingstay a
where they were, and
5.12a sport route at a crag near signal for help.
They
Canmore. tried He shouting
clipped and whistle
three boltsblasts
and
in groups of three, with
moved some distance above the third no luck.
Finally,
bolt when after several
a hold pulled hours,
off thethey rock
managed
and he fell.toThe alerttopsomeone
bolt rippedon the out,
0 1067 Valley
causingfloor himby to using
fall sixtheir
metersloneto the
HAPE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West2001 Buttress Alaska,
flashlightMount and the McKinley,
flash onWest their
Buttress
camera. At midnight, Rangers
At 1000 onthem
contacted May with27, Richard
a loudspeaker
Gustafson
from the base (34)ofand theWilliam
cliff. Ross (45)
—clients
Two NPSfrom rescue twoteamseparatemembers
expeditions—were
started up the Royalexperiencing
Arches route at
symptoms
0045 on Augustof High Altitude
2 and Pulmonary
reached Dan
Edema
and Peris (HAPE).
an hourGustafson
and a halfwas with
later.
0 1068
Alaskahelped
They DenaliDan Guiding
up the and RossClass
correct was
HAPE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West2001 Buttress Alaska, Mount McKinley, West
3 route to the rim and made camp. In
Buttress
the morning he was flown out by the
Charles Grey (40) of the Unfinished
park helicopter, and his shoulder
Business Expedition (party of 2),
dislocation was reduced at the
reported symptoms of HAPE to the
Yosemite clinic.
14,200-foot Ranger Camp on Mount
Analysis
McKinley at midnight on June 9. Grey
Dan feels he could have finished the
was ataxic with an oxygen saturation
0 1069 pitch if he had taken his gear; instead,
of 61 percent. He was placed on
Illness—Abdominal Pain, Miscommunication—Failure
2001 he was
Alaska, to essentially
DiscloseMcKinley,
Mount climbing
Medical unroped—
Condition,
West Alaska, Mount Mc
a pretty
Buttress common scenario behind
climbing
On June accidents in the park.level
9 at the 16,700-foot Withof
the climb “over,” expecting
the West Buttress of Mt. McKinley, 3rd class,Lai
and close to dark,
Yuk Man (3 8) collapsed from the failure to
recognize
abdominalchanging distress and circumstances
was unable to
(known as “situational
move due to severe pain. awareness”)
The Park
can probably
Service take credit
coordinated a team for another
to lower
0 1070 victim. In addition, a little morecamp
Man down to the 14,200-foot
Lightning—Poor Position, Failure to Turn
2001
Back, Inadequate
explorationClothing
California, before and
Yosemite Equipment
National
committing Park,
to that
Cathedral Peak
slab would have uncovered the
On June3rd
normal 25,class
my brother AndrewinBetts
exit indicated the
(24) and
guidebook. I, Brad Betts (28), along with
our friend
Dan and Peris Richard hadMeadea spare(26),rope, setbutout
to climb
no matches the six-pitch, 5.6 Southeast
or extra clothes, and only
Buttress
one light.ofWe Cathedral
strongly Peak (10,940
recommend
feet).headlamp
one None of us perhad doneon
person theany climb
long
0 1071
before, and
route—it it would
is hard be mya first
to share Mini-Mag
Off Route—Fall on Rock, Inadequate Equipment
2001 and Protection, California, Yosemite Valley, Royal Arch
at opposite ends of the rope. We also
recommend training as a Wilderness
First Responder. Among other skills, it
will improve your ability to deal with
dislocations, especially when no
rescue team is waiting to bail you out.
(Source: John Dill, NPS Ranger,
0 1072 Yosemite National Park)
 Pulmonary Edema, Alaska, Mt. McKinley,2001West Buttress
Alaska, Mt. McKinley, West Buttress
While the incident with Andrews was
unfolding at 13,500 feet, there was
another incident developing at high
camp—17,200 feet. The Black Ice
Expedition, consisting of Sacha
Friedlin (23) and Marie Cyr (24), were
spending their third night at the
0 1073
17,200-foot camp and Cyr had
Rappel Failure—Misperception of Anchor,
2001Fall onAlberta,
Ice Banff National Park,
Selenium Falls
On December 12, a party of three had
completed Selenium Falls, a water ice
Grade 5 route. To descend, the
climbers threaded their ropes through
an existing Abalokov (V-thread) in the
ice. A V-thread anchor is created by
0 1074
threading and unthreading two ice
Rappell Error—Fall on Rock, Arizona, Tucson,
2001 PapagoArizona,Buttes
Tucson, Papago Buttes
On August 10 at 7:00 pm, Kyle Brown
(22) plunged 50 feet off a cliff at
Papago Buttes while teaching kids
from his church how to rappel.
It took rescue crews about an hour to
reach Brown. Fire officials said that
Brown’s head injuries suppressed his
0 1075
breathing, and by the time firefighters
Respiratory Distress, Alaska, Mount McKinley,
2001 West Buttress
Alaska, Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
On May 26, the Casade-Dacks
Expedition of Ron Fridell (50), Sid
Perkins, and Don Andrews (43) flew
to the Kahiltna Glacier to begin their
climb of the West Buttress of Mount
McKinley. Over the next five days the
0 1076
group proceeded to the 11,000-foot
Serac Fall, Alaska, Mount Johnson, Ruth
2001
Gorge Alaska, Mount Johnson, Ruth Gorge
On May 15, Seth Shaw (38) and Tim
Wagner (34) checked into the
Talkeetna Ranger Station and filled
out a backcountry permit to climb
Mount Johnson. They were flown into
the Ruth Glacier, Denali National Park
and Preserve by Talkeetna Air Taxi.
0 1078
On May 16, Shaw and Wagner
Slip on Ice, AMS, Exposure, Inadequate2001
Clothing,Alaska,
Inexperience,
started Mount
their Alaska, Mount
McKinley,
climb McKinley, West Buttress
West
of Mount Johnson,
Buttress.
climbing a ice gully located on the
May
center 13,ofRangers KevinThey
the buttress. Moore and
finished
Scott Metcalfe with volunteers Jay
Hammond and John Evans carried
loads from 14,200 feet to 16,200 feet
on the West Buttress and returned to
14,200 feet. They reported the
0 1079
following.
 Slip on Mixed Terrain, Inadequate Equipment
2001 (IceAlberta,
Ax in Pack),
BanffExceeding Abilities,
National Park, Alberta, Banff Nation
Cascade
Mountain
The story behind this accident was
largely pieced together from the
evidence gathered during the lengthy
search that was required to locate and
recover the victim’s body. The victim,
P.O. (19), planned on climbing the
0 1080
south face of Cascade Mountain with
Slip on MIxed Terrain, Rappel Error, Fatigue,
2001 Dehydration, British Columbia,
British Columbia, Tantalus Tantalus
Range, Range, Mount Dio
Mount Dione
On September 24, two experienced
climbers were descending Mount
Dione. They had completed the
second ascent of the West Face, and
spent the night on the summit. H.Z.
(39) had forgotten his water bottle and
0 1081
was very dehydrated. Both climbers
Stranded—Rappel Rope Too Short, Arizona,
2001 Camelback
Arizona,Mountain
Camelback Mountain
On March 15, a person who wishes to
remain anonymous was attempting to
rappel from a rock face that is 400
feet high. He started rappelling, and
when he got close to the end of his
rope, he realized he was still 150 feet
from the ground. His partner realized
0 1082
he was in trouble and called 911. The
Weather, Exposure, Failure to Turn Back,
2001
California, Mount Shasta
California, Mount Shasta
Early Monday morning April 10, Craig
Hiemstra (38) and John “Zippo”
Miksits (45), both experienced
climbers, set out from the Bunny Flat
Trailhead in beautiful weather to climb
Mt. Shasta via Cascade Gulch. John
and Craig had never climbed together
0 1083
before. They had made acquaintance
Avalanche, Poor Position, New York, Adirondack
2001 HighYork,
New Peaks,Adirondack
Wright PeakHigh Peaks,
Wright Peak
On February 20, one skier was killed
and five others injured when they
were caught in an avalanche in the
Adirondack High Peaks while skiing in
an off-trail area. The avalanche
occurred about 1:00 p.m. on the
0 1084
northeast side of Wright Peak.
Fall on Ice – Ice Screw Pulled Out, Haste
2001
North Carolina,
Around Celo
3:00 Knob, Thepartner
p.m., my CrescentTS and
I were finishing our second ice route
of the day in the Black Mountain
Range. Both routes were
characteristic of the long gully climbs
—easy to moderate ice with a few
technical stretches no harder than
WI3. I was beginning the last of the
0 1086
roped pitches, a short 30- foot section
 mood that day, perhaps feeling ill.
Second, although he was an
experienced free climber, he had little
aid experience and had complained of
being inefficient with his big wall
Fall on Ice, Anchor and Carabiner Probably
2001Failed, Pennslyvania,
Pennsylvania,
ascenders. Kitnersville,
Kitnersville,
Third, he had been The Main
The Main Flow
Flow
struggling with his rappel ropes for an
Aboutornoon
hour two, on December
clearly annoyed 27,by JW the(43)
and BA (36)
situation. Each started on anbyice
problem, climb
itself, may
popularly
have beenknow as “The
frustrating butBanana”
was not
(WI4) but more
necessarily correctlyper
dangerous called
se; “The
Main Flow” in Kitnersville.
however, one irritation on top of The
conditions
another may were havegood that day—cold
ultimately led to
0 1087
(25-28 degrees F),
hasty decisions and shortcutscloudy, withwith
Fall on Ice, Climbing Alone, Placed No2001
ProtectionOnUtah, Provo Canyon,
December 18, a manStairway (24) to wasHeaven
on
safety. Of course we cannot know
the second pitch of Stairway to
Andy’s state of mind; the possibility of
Heaven when he fell attempting to
contributing mental factors is offered
climb over an ice bulge. Both feet
here for other climbers to watch for in
popped from their holds. He dropped
themselves.
50 feet to the ground, suffering a
compression fracture of L-5. (Source:
In summary, the most likely scenario
Dennis Chapman - Utah County
0 1088 places Andy at or near the bottom of
Sheriff’s SAR)
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped—Trying to Savethe
2001 first
Time,
FALL ON rappel
Colorado,
ROCK, from
RockyDinner
CLIMBING Ledge,
Mountain National Park, Longs
trying to free his jammed
UNROPED-TRYING TO SAVE TIME rappel ropes
by pulling hard on one rope. When the
rope suddenly
Colorado, Rocky came loose, National
Mountain he lost his
balance
Park, Longs and Peak
fell, pulling the other rope
through the anchor above and taking
both
On Julyropes with him. Tague (32) and
6, Cameron
Emma Williams (34) were attempting
0 1089 While we do notRoute
know exactly
the Yellow Wall (V 5.11)what on the
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Anchor on Top 2001
Rope SetAndy
OnUp Colorado,
April
was 20, a
doing
Diamond of Longs Peak.Boulder
climber
at the Canyon,
fell
time, orHappy
to his
Tague was Hour Crag
death
what
while being
caused lowered,
his fall, we can due betofairly
the
webbingthat
certain on for
onewhatever
of the anchor’s
reason,
partinghe
either andhad not
nobeing
anchor properly
to the clipped
cliff at
in to moment
that the equalizing anchor.
or he had In the an
fashioned
case of the webbing,
inadequate one. it was only
masking tape that connected (and
hid!)
Severalthe observations
ends of one of havetwobeenwebbing left
0 1090
anchor
out of this analysis for lack ofwas
slings. This accident space.
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Anchor System,2001
California, Yosemite Valley, Washington Column
Note that none of the key skills
involved in this accident are unique to
big-wall climbs. Ascending and freeing
jammed rappel ropes and maintaining
a secure tie-in are concepts important
to free climbing as well. (Source: John
Dill, NPS Ranger, Yosemite National
0 1091 Park)
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Colorado,
2001 Rocky Mountain
Colorado, Rocky National
MountainPark,National
Longs Peak
Park, Longs Peak
On August 5, James A. Guest (32)
took a 30-foot lead fall on Pervertical
Sanctuary (V 5.10) on the Diamond of
Longs Peak. Guest impacted hard
against both feet, resulting in fractures
to both legs. His partner, Brent Moore,
0 1092
assisted by additional Diamond
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection—Failure
2001 to Assess
Oregon,Rock Formation,
Mount Inadequate Belay, Exceeding Ab
Washington
At sunrise on June 29, Eric Seyler
(28) and Kurt Smith (26) left their
bivouac high on the North Ridge of
Mount Washington to climb Central
Pillar, de scribed in their guide book,
“Oregon High”, by Jeff Thomas, as
“steep, exposed and a joy to climb.”
0 1093
Unable to identify the described route
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection—Pulled
2001 Out,Colorado,
Late Start—Impending
Rocky MountainDarkness, Off Route, Inexperien
National
Park, The Book
On July 1, Mike Head (26) and Levois
“Adolph” Garcia were attempting to
climb Osiris (II 5.7) on The Book.
Head, the leader, got off route on the
final pitch and fell from a section of
5.10 rock as he was attempting to
0 1094
place protection. He pulled the next
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Tie-In for Lowering,
2001 NoColorado,
Hard Hat, Clear
Colorado, Clear
Creek Creek Canyon,
Canyon, Cat Cat Slab
Slab
On April 24, Heather Lower (25) died
in Clear Creek Canyon. She was
climbing west of Tunnel 5. (A few
areas there include: Cat Slab, Dog
House, Primo Wall, and Crystal
Tower.) She was with eight others.
0 1095
She fell 100-12 5 feet. She was not
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, California, 2001
Yosemite California,
National Park, Tuolumne
Yosemite Meadows
National Park,
Tuolumne Meadows
On August 12, Chris Weeldreyer (36)
was leading the first pitch (5.9+) of
Needle Spoon, a face climb on
Pywiack Dome in Tuolumne
Meadows, belayed by Henry Cutler.
Near the end of the pitch, 5-10 feet
0 1096
above his last protection (a bolt), his
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, Exceeding Abilities
2001 Colorado, Boulder
On February 26, Canyon, Happy
while lead Hour Crag
climbing in
Boulder Canyon with two relatively
inexperienced members in my group,
I lent my helmet to Rob, the least
experienced person in our group (who
had never climbed outdoors before).
Darin, our most experienced climber,
was climbing a 5.8-5.9 buttress
0 1097
immediately west of our established
Fall on Rock, Oregon, Mount Hood, Sandy2001Glacier Headwall
Oregon, Mount Hood, Sandy Glacier
Headwall
On June 20, James Frankenfield (39)
and Iain Morris (23) were on the
Sandy Glacier Headwall route on
Mount Hood. At 0730, while traversing
above the glacier to the headwall,
they were involved in a major rockfall
0 1098
event which initiated thousands of feet
 Fall on Rock, Protection Failure, North 2001
Carolina, North
Looking Glass Rock,
Carolina, The Womb
Looking Glass Rock,
The Womb.
Ian Randall (26) and I, Josh Whitmore
(23), both experienced climbers were
climbing The Womb (5.11) on the
north side of Looking Glass Rock on
June 9. The accident occurred on the
first pitch. I was approximately 40 feet
0 1099
off the ground with a cam placed at
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Colorado,
2001 Eldorado
Colorado,StateEldorado
Park, Bastille
StateRock
Park,
Bastille Rock
On July 27, Aaron Nydam (24)
sustained a dislocated hip and cuts on
his leg after falling about 25 feet while
climbing with his brothers Scott and
Trevor. His climbing protection came
out. Soldiers from Fort Carson were
0 1100
training in the area and helped after
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Placed
2001Inadequate Protection,
California, No Hard
Yosemite Hat,Reed's
Valley, California, Yosemite Val
Pinnacle
On September 23, Aram Marks (21)
was leading Stone Groove, a one-
pitch 5.10b crack at Reed’s Pinnacle.
Tricia (29) was belaying at the base.
Aram placed a piece about 10 feet up,
followed by a TCU at about 15 feet.
0 1101
He continued climbing until his feet
Fall on Rock—Inadequate Belay While 2001Lowering,Utah,
Utah,American
American Forks
Forks Canyon,
Canyon,Rockapella
Rockapella
On June 1, Aaron Johnson (17) was
being lowered from Rockappella, but
his partner could not hold him. The
rope started pulling her up. Another
young woman grabbed on to her, but
even the two of them could not hold
0 1102
his weight. They let go. Johnson fell
Fall on Rock—Lowering Error, Inadequate 2001Protection,
Utah,No Hard Hat,
Parley's Exceeding
Canyon, Salt Abilities,
Lake CityUtah, Parley's C
On June 17, CH (19), DK (19), and
LH (19) were climbing in Parley’s
Canyon, Salt Lake City. DK was
preparing to climb, belayed by CH at
the top of the route, but appeared to
be having trouble tying into the rope.
Another climber, waiting to climb the
0 1103
route, assisted him in tying in. The
Fall on Rock—Rappel Error, Darkness, 2001
Utah, Zion National
Utah, ZionPark, Grasshopper
National Park,
Grasshopper
On October 8, Eric Wehrly (33) and
his partner Ian Whyte were rappelling
the final 80 feet from the climb named
Grasshopper when this incident
occurred. Wehrly was the first one
down. He set up the rappel by
0 1104
doubling his rope—but not exactly.
 Fall on Rock—Testing Protection Which 2001
Pulled Out
New and Falling Sandia
Mexico, Rock Mountains, The
Shield
After a long approach on August 26,
four well-prepared and experienced
climbers began to climb the six-pitch
Standard “S” Route (IV 5.6) on The
Shield, the largest wall in the Sandia
Mountains outside of Albuquerque.
0 1105
About 650 feet from the top, the 40-
Fall on Snow, Faulty Use of Crampons,2001 Washington, North Cascades
Washington, NorthNational Park,
Cascades Mount Shuksan, Fish
National
Park, Mount Shuksan, Fisher
Chimneys Route
On September 16, John Nedila (50)
slipped on a 50-degree snow slope on
the Fisher Chimneys route on Mount
Shuksan. He slid about 125 feet to
rocks below, suffering injuries to his
0 1107
face, torso, and extremities. He was
Fall on Snow, Loss of Control—Voluntary 2001Glissade, Inexperience,
Colorado, RockyColorado,
MountainRocky Mountain Naitonal Pa
National
Park, Mount Ypsilon
On August 26, Larisa J. Watson (23)
and three partners partially ascended
the Blitzen Ridge route on Mount
Ypsilon when they noticed incoming
foul weather and decided to retreat.
While glissading the Spectacle Lake
0 1108
Snowfield, Watson lost control and
Fall on Snow—Unroped at Summit, Wind, 2001Oregon, Mount Mount
Oregon, Hood Hood
On June 4, Diana Kornet (29) slipped
as she was looking over the northeast
side of Mount Hood. She fell about
2,500 feet to her death. She and six
friends had reached the summit about
7 a.m. She unroped—as many
climbers do— and left her ice ax when
0 1109
she went to take a look. It was windy
Fall or Slip on Rock, Proteciton Failure,2001
North Carolina, Looking Glass
North Carolina, Rock,
Looking Second
Glass Coming
Rock,
Second Coming
On May 5, Ben Williams (21) and his
partner were attempting Second
Coming (5.7), a popular route on the
south side of Looking Glass Rock. He
was wearing a helmet. Williams, a
climber with 1-3 years experience,
0 1110
placed several pieces of gear as he
Falling Ice, Colorado, Rocky Mountain 2001
National Park, LongsRocky
Colorado, Peak Mountain National
Park, Longs Peak
On June 25, Jesse Woods (20) and
Scott Kastengren were preparing to
climb the third pitch of the Casual
Route (IV 5.10) on the Diamond of
Longs Peak when Woods was struck
in the face by falling ice. He sustained
0 1112
lacerations to the forehead (requiring
 Due to recent avalanche activity
elsewhere on the mountain, an
avalanche pit was dug above Glacier
Vista and avalanche conditions were
assessed to be relatively stable for
Falling Ice, No Hard Hat, Washington, Mount slopes
2001 Rainier, of similar
Ingraham
Washington, aspect
Glacier
Mount and Ingraham
Rainier, elevation.
The team
Glacier then proceeded downhill
below
On June the4,moraine
an ice fallalongside
occurred thefrom
Nisqually Glacier. While gearing
the top of an 80- to 100-oot ice cliff up for
glacier
that the climbing route crosses to
travel, the visibility began
improve
underneath. and Ina party
the pathof four
were followed
Rainier
by a party of two Inc.,
Mountaineering, was guides
witnessed and
crossing
clients. Thetheice
Nisqually Glacier
broke apart and below
0 1113 the “Fan.” Whengaining
the party of four
spread rapidly, speed. It was
Falling Rock, Washington, Mount Rainier,
2001Kautz Washington,
Cleaver the Rangers,
reached Mt. Rainier, Kautz
it was
Cleaver.
confirmed that the following party was
On the
the evening
German of July
party. When 24,the
Rainier
German
National
party Park rescuers,
reached the Rangers, aided they by an
Army Reserve
appeared to beChinook
travelinghelicopter,
at a
rescued Tony
reasonable Leak
pace and(47)
were from the
in good
12,200-foot
spirits. leveltook
Rangers of Kautz Cleaver out
the contents on
Mount
of Rainier.
German’s packLeak to and
carryhis down two to sons
0 1114
Joshua (17)
Paradise. Theand Caleb (15)
German partywere was
Falling Rock—Dislodged By Day-Pack,2001 Poor Position, California,
California, Yosemite
Yosemite Valley, Valley, Cathedral Rocks
Cathedral
assisted back to the Paradise Old
Rocks
Station where a detailed report of the
On August 12, Sarah Sand (59) and
incident was obtained. Medial
eight friends started up the Gunsight,
evaluations were refused; however,
the class 4-5 gully between Middle
the patients both signed EMS release
and Lower Cathedral Rocks. David
forms. The German party indicated
(58), the leader, had been bringing
that they would seek further medical
friends on this climb for several years.
0 1115 evaluation at Harborview Hospital in
As usual, he had given the beginners,
Falling Snow/Ice—Cornice Collapse, Washington,
2001 Seattle
Mountand
Washington, report
Rainier, back
Panorama
Mount the
Rainier, results of
Point
their evaluations
Panorama Point to the Old Station by
phone. (Source: Report prepared
On April 30, Rainier Mountaineering, by
Glenn
Inc., wasKessler and Jennifer
conducting the second Erxleben, day
NPS Rangers, Mount Rainier
of their annual guide tryouts. There National
Park)
were 52 applicants and about 15 RMI
Analysis
guides who had hiked to the
David
Panorama GermanPointwrote
areaatoreport
conduct
0 1116 describing the details found
training/evaluation. About theabove.
6800-He
Falls into Crevasse, Climbing Unroped,2001
Off Route, Washington,
Washington,
indicated Mount
thatMount Rainier,
ascent,Interglacier
on theRainier, when
Interglacier
they had reached the Wilson
On July 22,
Headwall andThomas
FuhrerPorro Finger, (41) Judyfell
into a crevasse on the Interglacier.
“suggested that we turn back.” By the He
was traveling
time they reachedwith athe partner,
crater Mike rim, it
Spillane,
was but theywhiteout.
a complete were not“Judy roped. again
Porro said he
suggested saw back,
turning a snow butbridge
the and
crevassewas
summit on so
each side,His
close!” butconcluding
decided
0 1117
not to follow
statement thethis:
was trail“We
around hadthe survived.
Frostbite—Weather Conditions, Failure2001
to Turn Back, Falls on Snow and into Crevasses, Washington, Mo
Poor judgment cost us dearly, but
competent mountaineering skills (and
some luck) brought us back alive
(barely). Skills and technical
competence are requirements for
mountaineering, but nothing will ever
substitute for good judgment.”
0 1118 (Source: Jed Williamson)
 HAPE, Washington, Mount Rainier, Fuhrer's
2001 Finger
Washington, Mount Rainier, Fuhrer's
Finger
Tim Hartman contacted Mount Rainier
National Park at 7:08 a.m. on August
12 to report that his partner Neil
Shriner (41) was very ill. Shriner’s
symptoms included difficulty
breathing, gurgling lung sounds, and
0 1119
dizziness when standing. Hartman
Incomplete Tie-In, Fall on Rock, California,
2001 The Needles, Sorcerer
California, Needle Sorcerer
The Needles,
Needle
On September 4, two climbers were
on Thin Ice (5.10b) at the Needles, an
easy route for their abilities, after
earlier climbing two short, multi-pitch
routes, Igor Unchained (5.9) and Airy
Interlude (5.10a). It was 1530, the
0 1120
route was in shade with a mild
Lightning, Poor Position—Late Afternoon,
2001Colorado, Rocky Rocky
Colorado, Mountain NationalNational
Mountain Park, Longs Peak
Park, Longs Peak
On July 12, Andy Haberkorn (28) was
seconding his partner, Stanley
Smigel, on a crux 5.10 pitch of the
Casual Route on the Diamond of
Longs Peak. As Haberkorn was about
40 feet above the Yellow Wall bivouac
0 1121
ledge, a bright flash of lightning was
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Fall
2001on Snow, Hit and Dragged
Washington, by Falling Peaks
Silver/Tinkham Climber, Inexperience, M
On June 8, Joe Myers (40), Jacob
Engelstein (40), and Phil Loe (58)
were attempting to climb Tinkham
Peak, an easy, non-technical climb.
The route was snow-covered above
4,400 feet. Owing to poor visibility, the
climb was aborted at 4,900 feet. The
0 1122
party descended to just above 4,400
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Faulty
2001 UseUtah,
of Crampons, Fall on Snow,
Mount Olympus, Fatigue,
North Face Utah, Mount Olym
The previous year we (Michael and
Jane Feldhaus, 33 and 31), along with
Paul (41) and Marion (36), had
completed the same route on Mount
Olympus in approximately 12 hours.
We had decided to pursue the same
route that Sunday morning of May 14.
0 1123
Leaving the parking area for Neffs
Nearly Stranded—Rigging Problems, Darkness,
2001 Fatigue, California,
California, YosemiteYosemite
Valley,Valley,
Lost Lost Arrow Tip
Arrow Tip
Sasha Binford and I, Charles Zilm
(32), set out to climb the Lost Arrow
Tip (three pitches, 5.8 A2) on October
6. We had hoped to be off by early
afternoon, but when we got to the
climb at 8:00 a.m. there were already
0 1124
two parties ahead of us rappelling into
 Rappel Failure, Illinois, Mississippi Palisades
2001 Park, Sentinel
Illinois, Rock
Mississippi Palisades Park,
Sentinel Rock
In November, Steven Wallace (27)
died in hospital following his 40 foot
fall from Sentinel Rock, from which he
was rappelling. No other details were
available, but as this is an area now
used by climbers, it is important to call
0 1126
attention to it, especially as a fatality
Rappel Failure—Anchor Came Away, Inadequate
2001 Protection,
New Jersey,New Jersey,
Mount Mount Tammany, Delaware Wa
Tammany,
Delaware Water Gap National
Recreation Area
Steve Raible (22) fell about 120 feet
to his death while rappelling from a
route on Mount Raible and climbing
partner Todd Garcia had completed a
technical climb of “Double Overhang”
0 1127
(5.8) and were in the process of
Snow Blindness—Inadequate Equipment, 2001
Colorado, Rocky Mountain
Colorado, National Park,
Rocky Mountain Longs Peak
National
Park, Longs Peak
On June 11, Michael William Pope
(45) lost his sight while descending
from a successful off-season ascent
of the Keyhole Route on Longs Peak.
It was a particularly bright and sunny
day on the snow-covered route, but
0 1128
Pope had forgotten to pack his
Stranded, Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled,
2001
Virgina, Seneca Seneca
Virginia, Rocks Rocks
In early April, a climber (age
unknown) started soloing a chimney
on the West Face of the North Peak.
He got up 15 or 20 feet and decided
that he would rather have a rope, so
his partner threw the end of the rope
up to him and the climber tied in. He
0 1129
placed a Camalot, climbed a few feet
Weather—High Winds, Fall on to Rocks, 2001
Colorado, Rocky Mountain
Colorado, National Park,
Rocky Mountain Longs Peak
National
Park, Longs Peak
On February 7, Craig Dreher (30) and
Gene Williamson (30) decided to
abort their winter attempt of the
Keyhole Route due to high winds. As
they were retreating from the Boulder
Field, a gust of westerly wind
0 1133
estimated at 150 mph knocked over
Fall on Rock—Hand-Hold Came Loose,2001 ClimbingWyoming,
Unroped, Wyoming,
Grand TetonGrand Teton National
National Park, Park, Symm
Symmetry Spire
On July 28 about 1630, Mark Sachs
(36) called Teton Dispatch (who
transferred the call to rescue
coordinator George Montopoli) using
a cell phone borrowed from a hiker on
the west shore of Jenny Lake. Sachs
0 1134
stated that his climbing partner, Laura
 Fall on Snow, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
2001 Wyoming,
Wyoming,Grand TetonTeton
Grand National Park, Mount
National Park, Owen
Mount Owen
On July 15 at 1810, Rene Steque (65)
fell 300 feet on snow at the base of
the Koven Glacier while returning
after a successful ascent of Mount
Owen. He had fallen two previous
times before that without injury, but on
0 1135
the third fall, he slid into a boulder
Rappel Failure—Anchor Came Apart, Inadequate
2001 Protection, Grand
Wyoming, Wyoming,TetonGrand Teton Park,
National National Park, Garn
Garnet Canyon
On September 15 about 1930, Julien
Roques (20) fell 350 feet from the
third pitch of the Open Book in Garnet
Canyon. He sustained severe injuries
during the fall resulting in his death.
Analysis
0 1137
Upon investigation on the morning of
Slip on Snow—Twice, No Belay, Wyoming,
2001 Grand Teton National
Wyoming,
September 17, itPark,
Grand Teton
was Mount
National
noted Moran
that Park,
Mount Moran
Roques was correctly attached to his
On Julydevice
rappel 3, the and
Jones
hisparty signed at
fall initiated out
at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station as
two separate groups of four to climb
the Skillet Glacier route on Mount
Moran. On July 4, they started across
Jackson Lake in two small boats
0 1138
headed for the base on Mount Moran.
Unable to Find Descent Route, Darkness,
2001
Wyoming, Grand Teton
Wyoming, Grand National
Teton Park,
NationalGrand Teton
Park,
Grand Teton
On July 19 at 2105, I received a cell
phone call via Teton Dispatch from
John Rasmussen. Rasmussen stated
that he and his wife were near the
summit of the Grand Teton after
having ascended the upper Exum
0 1139
Ridge, and were having difficulty
AMS, HAPE, Alaska, Mount McKinley,2002 West Buttress
Alaska, Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
On May 26, Mark Hall (42), a client of
Mountain Trip, was brought to the
Ranger Camp at 14,200 feet
complaining of a severe headache
and persistent cough. He was treated
for Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)
0 1140
and High Altitude Pulmonary Edema
AMS—Ascending Too Fast, Late Start,2002
ExceedingCalifornia,
Abilities, California, MountAvalanche
Mount Shasta, Shasta, Avalanche Gulch
Gulch
On July 16, Jans Hogenacker (22)
and his party of seven—who had little
experience and were unable to
recognize the symptoms of AMS as
they developed— were climbing the
Avalanche Gulch route on Mount
0 1141
Shasta and stopped at 13,200 feet at
 Cardiac Arrest—Fall on Snow, Alberta,2002
Banff National
Alberta,Park, Mount
Banff Temple,
National EastMount
Park, Ridge
Temple, East Ridge
On September 15, a party of two was
ascending the Aemmer Couloir variant
of this route. This is a snow and ice
gully of 45 to 55 degrees. About
halfway up the route one of the
climbers started suffering from chest
0 1142
pains and respiratory distress. Shortly
Climbing Alone, Weather—Lost Equipment 2002 in Storm,
BritishBritish Columbia,
Columbia, Mount
Mount Robson Provincial Park, M
Robson
Provincial Park, Mount Robson
During the week of August 27, C.G.
set out to attempt a solo climb of
Mount Robson or Resplendent. He
made it to the col between the two
mountains. During a violent storm his
tent was destroyed and ice ax lost.
0 1143
Feeling he no longer had the
Exhaustion, Exceeding Abilities, Alberta,
2002
Banff National
Alberta,Park,
BanffMount Temple,
National East
Park, Ridge
Mount
Temple, East Ridge
On August 10, a party of three was
reported overdue to Warden Service
dispatch. They had been about 30
hours on this alpine grade IV, 5.7
route when they were located at the
start of the gullies that lead to the
0 1144
summit icecap. A Warden Service
Failure to Follow Route, Climbing Alone,
2002
Exposure, Inadequate
California, Equipment/Clothing,
Mount Shasta, AvalancheWeather, Inexperien
Gulch
Henry Clardy (41) was planning on
climbing the Avalanche Gulch route
on the south side of the mountain,
starting on September 24. Clardy had
little mountaineering experience but
had attempted Mount Shasta in
0 1145
August. On that climb he did not
Failure to Follow Route—Stranded, Alberta,
2002 Banff National
Alberta, Park,National
Banff Mount Haddo
Park, Mount
Haddo
On July 21, after completing the North
Glacier Route on Mounts Haddo and
Aberdeen, a party of four began
descending the “easy” south face of
Mount Haddo as described in a local
climbing guidebook. After a couple of
1 1146
rappels and steepening terrain, they
Fall in Crevasse, Climbing Unroped, Inadequate
2002 Equipment, Alberta,
Alberta, Jasper Jasper National
National Park, Park, Athabasca-And
Athabasca-Andromeda Glacier
On September 5, P.P. and A.B.
departed the climber’s parking lot
below Mount Athabasca at 0430 to
climb Mount Athabasca via the
Athabasca-Andromeda col. On
reaching the toe of the glacier they
0 1147
roped up and put their crampons on.
 Fall in Crevasse—Poor Position, Inadequate
2002 Equipment Alberta,
On May 18,Jasper National
D.S. and Park, Athabasca
I decided to Glacier
attempt a ski ascent of North and
South Twin, despite the fact that the
third member of our party could not
come along. The year 2001 was a low
snow year, but we felt it was
reasonable for the two of us to ascend
the heavily crevassed Athabasca
0 1148
Glacier since we had been there
Fall on Ice, Climbing Unroped, Alberta,2002
Banff National Park,
Alberta, Mount
Banff Aberdeen,
National Park,North Glacier
Mount
Aberdeen, North Glacier
On October 14, a party of five was
climbing the lower tongue of this snow
and ice route. The party solo climbed
the ice tongue until the angle reached
about 45 degrees, and then they
stopped to set up a belay. One of the
0 1149
climbers fell, tumbling about 200
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Equipment, Inadequate
2002 Protection,
Colorado, Colorado, Rocky Mountain
Rocky Mountain National Park, Long
National
Park, Longs Peak, East Face
On August 3 at 0700, Jeff Snyder (24)
was leading over the icy Mills Glacier
to the base of Stetner’s Ledges III (AI
1 5.8) on the East Face of Longs
Peak. Snyder had planned to fix
anchors in rock at the base of
0 1150
Stetner’s Ledges and then belay Joe
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Alberta,
2002Banff Alberta,
National Banff
Park, Louise
NationalFalls
Park, Louise
Falls
On February 14, T.T. was leading the
final crux pitch of this popular Grade
4+ ice climb. He placed two or three
ice screws above the belay on the
steepest part of the pillar, the last one
protecting the exit moves onto a low
0 1151
angled section. He began to climb the
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, British
2002
Columbia, Lillooet,
British OregonLillooet,
Columbia, Jack Oregon
Jack
On January 7, H.C., S.P., and I
headed into the hills south of Cache
Creek for a day of ice climbing on
“Oregon Jack.”
The ice was in good shape, although
quite “platey” on the surface. The
0 1152
angle of the climb was moderate, so
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Miscommunication,
2002 Colorado,
Colorado,
H.C. placed OurayOuray
only Ice
Ice Park
four Park on the
screws
In January, a 140-foot fall at the
Ouray Ice Park resulted in fatality for
an experienced climber, Pete Ro, who
was participating in a master’s ice
climbing class with a group who had
extensive experience ice climbing. He
had just led up a pillar of ice. When he
0 1153
reached the top he yelled what
 Fall on Ice, Inattention, Alberta, Banff National
2002 Park, Professor
Alberta, BanffFalls
National Park,
Professor Falls
On March 20, after instructing an ice
climbing session on this popular
Grade 4 ice climb, J.M. tripped on
easy terrain while descending to the
second rappel. He fell over a six
meter pitch and sustained a
0 1154
dislocated shoulder and a back injury.
Fall on Ice, Inattention, British Columbia,
2002Kootenay National
British Park, Haffner
Columbia, Creek
Kootenay National
Park, Haffner Creek
Haffner Creek is a popular ice
climbing area with a number of new
mixed climbs. On December 13, a
group of mountain guides were doing
some training. While ice “bouldering”
five feet off the ground, R.O. fell. He
0 1155
landed on his feet on uneven ground,
Fall on Rock, Foothold Broke—Failure 2002 to Test Holds, Alberta,
Alberta, Mount
Mount JohnJohn Laurie (Yamnuska)
Laurie
(Yamnuska)
On September 29, two experienced
climbers were ascending the Redshirt
route on Yamnuska (II, 5.7). On the
fourth pitch, leader I.H. (51) traversed
left, clipped a bolt, and then began the
five-meter, somewhat diagonal down-
0 1156
climb to the next belay station. He
Fall on Rock, Handhold Broke, Solo Hiking/Scrambling,
2002 Alberta,Alberta,
JasperJasper National
National Park,Park,
MountMount Woolley
Woolley
Late in the afternoon on August 5,
D.E. was approaching the col
between Mounts Woolley and
Cromwell, en route to the Lloyd
MacKay—Mount Alberta Hut. D.E.
pulled on what appeared to be a solid
0 1157
handhold, but it broke free. D.E. lost
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay Anchor,2002 Arizona, Arizona,
Superior,Superior,
Queen CreekQueen Creek
I was climbing in Atlantis, Queen
Creek, on a 5.10, which really has no
belay spot directly below the climb, so
my belayer set up on the other side of
the creek bed, about seven meters
away from the wall I was to climb on.
All was well until I fell above the fourth
0 1158
bolt. I anticipated the fall, and
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Climbing
2002 Unroped,
Arizona, NoOak
HardCreek
Hat, Arizona, Oak
Overlook, Creek Overlook, Grif
Griffo
On September 28, a rock-climbing
teacher died after falling more than 60
feet from a route called Griffo (5.6) at
the Oak Creek Overlook on Highway
89A South of Flagstaff.
According to the Highlands Fire
Department, Glennon Wessellman
0 1159
(34), of Cottonwood, sustained
massive injuries in the fall, which
 area. She lost consciousness and
came to rest on a ledge.
By the time two companions had
climbed to her, she had regained
consciousness. Another companion
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Colorado, went
2002 Eldorado toCanyon,
Colorado, theEldorado
roadBestowal
andCanyon,
reported the
CrackBestowal
incident
Crack to a 911 dispatcher.
Park
My sonrangers
Chris responded to the
(17), our friend scene
Eric
by
(17), and I traveled to Eldorado her
1530. Rangers ascended to
and provided
Canyon patient
for guided care while
climbing Julya5th.
ten-
person rescue team
After completing was assembled
Bestowal Crack, we
to conduct
were in theaprocess
litter lowering,
of walkingwhichoff was
the
accomplished
backside and down by 1743. She was
the talus then
slope
0 1160 transported by wheeled
adjacent to the west facelitter and,
of the
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, No2002
Hard Hat,Arkansas,
Arkansas,
after reachingSam's
Sam's Throne
Throne
Tioga Road, was
On March 10,
transferred to an a climber
ambulance.(36) was
(Source:
lookingLongden,
Maura at a climbSAR fromRanger.)
the top of a
route, but he was not tied in. He fell
Analysis
50an
In to interview
60 feet and suffered
with major head
Jeff Schimon (27),
injuries,
one of herfractures,
companions, and other trauma.
he indicated
He was
that Ms. assisted
Venturellibydid other
not climbers,
have much
who transported
outdoor climbing him via backboard
experience. He to
0 1161
a helicopter
offered that ifcalled to the
she had hadscene.
more
Fall on Rock, Inexperience, California, 2002
Yosemite National Park, Daff Dome
experience outdoors, including falling,
she might have fared better. He also
indicated that she has not been
climbing since. “Her husband won’t let
her. He won’t climb if she doesn’t.
They’re both in it together.” (Source:
John Dill, NPS Ranger, Yosemite
0 1162 National Park)
Fall on Rock, Poor Conditions, Alberta,2002
Mount McGillivray,
Alberta, MountKahl McGillivray,
Crack Kahl
Crack
On July 16, D.W. was leading the
third pitch of this 200 meter high 5.5
rock climb. The crack in which he was
supposed to be climbing and placing
gear was wet, so he climbed on the
rock just beside the well traveled
0 1163
route. A handhold pulled off, and he
Fall on Snow, Poor Position, Alberta, Jasper
2002 National Park,Jasper
Alberta, Parker National
Ridge Park, Parker
Ridge
On May 6, a group of mountaineers
were practicing crevasse rescue at
Parker Ridge. The group was working
in roped teams of three. A person on
one end of the rope would jump off a
corniced ridge, while the other two
0 1166
people on the rope would arrest the
Fall on Snow—Carrying Too Much, Alaska, 2002 Mount McKinley,
Alaska, Mount West ButtressWest
McKinley,
Buttress
On May 23 around 0800, Priska
Landolt (30) of the Glaronia-Swiss
Expedition was descending below the
fixed lines around 15,000 feet when
she hooked her left ski tip and heard a
pop in her left knee. She packed the
0 1167
knee with snow and continued to
 Falling Ice, Poor Position, Alaska, Mount
2002
McKinley, Cassin
Alaska, RidgeMcKinley, Cassin
Mount
Ridge
At 2105 on June 16, Jason Kraus
(30), a member of the Cold and Stinky
Expedition, requested evacuation
from the base of the Cassin Ridge on
Denali. Kraus had sustained an injury
to his left leg from falling ice while
0 1169
belaying his partner, Michael Morris,
Falling Ice—Fall on Ice, Poor Position, 2002
Alberta, Banff National
Alberta, BanffPark, Johnson
National Canyon
Park, Upper Falls
Johnson
Canyon Upper Falls
On January 19, J. G. was standing at
the base of an ice pillar when a
climber above dislodged large pieces
of ice. One of the pieces hit her and
she fell about ten meters down a
slope, suffering a compound lower left
0 1170
leg fracture. One person ran out for
Falling Rock, California, Mount Shasta,2002
Avalanche Gulch Mount Shasta, Avalanche
California,
Gulch
On July 18, Scott Eisenbarth (25), a
guide for Shasta Mountain Guides
(SMG), was descending with two
clients on the Avalanche Gulch route
at 1015 when he was struck on the
side of the head by a falling rock.
0 1171
They were at 11,800 feet, and he was
Falling Rock—Crushed Hand, California, 2002
Yosemite Valley, ElYosemite
California, Capitan, Sea of Dreams
Valley, El
Capitan, Sea of Dreams
My name is Robert. I am a 24 year old
Austrian. On April 12, I started soloing
the Sea of Dreams on El Capitan. The
climbing was excellent—demanding
but not dangerous. The hauling was
very hard and the nights were
0 1172
uncomfortable due to runoff from
Faulty Use of Crampons—Fall on Snow, 2002
California, Mount Shasta,
California, MountWintun
Shasta, IceWintun
Fall Ice
Fall
On June 24, David Lowe (24) was
glissading at 13,500 feet with his
crampons on. His crampons caught
and threw him into a tumble, and his
leashed ice ax penetrated his thigh
from hip to knee. He fell
0 1174
approximately 2000 feet.
Foothold Gave Way—Fall on Snow, Placed 2002No Protection, Alaska,Hunter,
Alaska, Mount Mount Southwest
Hunter, Southwest Ridge
Ridge
On May 26 at 1700, James
Raitt(27),James Bonnie (27), Mark
Paterson, Darren Swift, Richard
Cantrill, and Peter Pollard flew to the
Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier
to attempt Mount Hunter’s Southwest
0 1175
Ridge and the Sultana Ridge on
 Frostbite—Dehydration and Inadequate2002
Clothing,Alaska,
Poor Physical
MountCondition,
McKinley,Alaska,
West Mount McKinley, We
Buttress
About 2100 on May 18, climbers at
the 14,200-foot camp witnessed Ron
Morrow (51) take a fall on the fixed
lines around 16,000 feet. Morrow
made it back to the 14,200-foot
basecamp by 2300 cold and tired. His
0 1176
partner Michael Rodriguez reported
HAPE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West2002Buttress Alaska, Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
At 1245 on Mayl 1, George Payot
(63), a member of the Denali French
Expedition, approached the NPS
14,200-foot camp complaining of
shortness of breath. Payot stated he
first began experiencing respiratory
0 1177
problems the previous day when he
HAPE, HACE, AMS, Alaska, Mount McKinley,
2002 West Buttress
Alaska, Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
On May 4, the “Joyful Expedition,” led
by Chun Byung-Tai, was flown to
basecamp on the Southeast Fork of
the Kahiltna Glacier by Hudson Air
Service. The eight man Korean
expedition began their ascent of the
0 1178
West Buttress route on Mount
Illness—Preexisting Condition Not Reported,
2002 Alaska, Mount
Alaska, McKinley,
Mount WestWest
McKinley, Buttress
Buttress
On May 14, Chi-Hyeon Pack (27) was
evacuated by helicopter from Mount
McKinley due to symptoms of a
gastrointestinal bleed. A few hours
later he underwent surgery for a
bleeding ulcer at the Alaska Regional
0 1179
Hospital. (See the May 4 report.)
Inadequate Belay—Climber Lowered Too 2002
Quickly, Alberta,
Alberta, JasperNational
Jasper National Park,
Park, Malign
MalignCanyon
Canyon
On February 10, at 1600, a Jasper
Warden was contacted via cell phone
by B.C., who reported his partner had
stabbed his right knee with his left
crampon while being lowered after
top-roping a climb. The Warden
0 1180
Service evacuated B.C. with a
Protection Came Out—Fall on Rock, Placed
2002 Inadequate Protection,
California, Darkness,
Yosemite California,
Valley, The Nose Yosemite Valley
On May 14, Brian Smudz and
Yanchun Su climbed from the ground
to Dolt Tower, without fixing any part
of the route. They had planned on one
relaxed day on the climb, and they
took it on the 15th because of the long
first day. They climbed to El Cap
0 1182
Tower and fixed to Boot Flake, but
 Search and Rescue climbed up to
Artalejo and arrived at 1230 bringing
rescue gear. Artalejo was back-
boarded, placed in a SKED, and
lowered to an LZ at 10,600 feet where
Protection Pulled Out—Fall on Rock, California,
2002 Yosemite Valley,
California, YosemiteMiddle Cathedral
Valley, Middle Rock
he was evacuated by helicopter at
Cathedral Rock
1330.
On July 12th at 1:00 p.m., a fisherman
The California Highway Patrol
in Yosemite Valley reported seeing
helicopter evacuated all injured
two climbers fall from high on Middle
climbers and transported them to
Cathedral Rock. After speaking with
Mercy Medical Center, Mount Shasta.
this witness, I hiked up to the base of
Both Daley and Artalejo were
the wall, where I found the bodies of
0 1183 released by 1600.
Myra Eldridge of Boulder, CO, and
Rappel Error—Inadequate Anchor, Weather, Analysis
2002 Climbing Alone,
Alberta, Alberta,
Jasper JasperPark,
National National
Mount Park, Mount Snow
The snowpack
Snowdome, on Mount Shasta was
Slipstream
around 70 percentofofMarch
On the afternoon normal 24,and very
M.G.
warm spring conditions
and C.G. made their way up the caused a
rapid
Domemelting.
Glacier Rock fall usually
to establish a
becomes more prevalent
basecamp below Mount Snowdome. in July and
August as the Avalanche
Their objective was to climb Gulch route
is
“Slipstream” (alpine grade VI,by
surrounded on three sides water
0 1184 higher terrain of loose rocks. This
ice grade 4+, 925 meters). This alpine
Rockfall, Alberta, Banff National Park, 2002
Mount Patterson,
route isEast
Alberta, Face
Banff National
notorious Park, as
for rockfall Mount
the
Patterson, East Face
snow melts, and early season and
On
earlySeptember 5, a party
morning climbs of three
are usually
started
safer. early for a two-day ascent of
this
Although climbing helmets are The
alpine grade IV, 5.6 route. not
route involves
designed climbing
for front or sidea few pitches
impacts, this
of glacier
helmet ice followed
probably madeby mixed
a huge
climbing oninsnow
difference and rock.
the extent of Artalejo’s
0 1185
Part way
head up the lower ice tongue, one
injury.
Rockslide, California, Mount Shasta, Avalanche
2002 Gulch
of climbers decided
Wilderness rescues to turntake
often around
several
while the
hours othertotwo
to days continued.
complete. At
In this
2100, the
case, the party
third climber
had to waitcouldsixsee that
hours
in a very exposed and dangerous
area before they were evacuated.
(Source: Eric White, Matt Hill—USFS
Climbing Rangers, Michael Massari—
0 1186 SWS)
Stranded, Exceeding Abilities, Alberta, 2002
Banff National Park,
Alberta, Mount
Banff Lefroy,Park,
National Lemire Route
Mount
Lefroy, Lemire Route
After 32 hours on this alpine grade IV,
5.7 route a party of two was reported
overdue to Warden Service dispatch.
They were located near the top of a
rock buttress below the summit ridge
and evacuated by heli-sling at their
0 1187
request.
Stranded, Inadequate Equipment, Alberta,2002
Kananaskis Provincial
Alberta, Park, Mount
Kananaskis Sir Douglas
Provincial Park,
Mount Sir Douglas
On August 29, two climbers ascended
Mount Sir Douglas via the East Ridge,
alpine grade III, 5.6. Before beginning
the route, they had decided they
would descend the same way, instead
of taking the longer but easier west
0 1188
ridge descent route. The climbers
 Transient Ischemic Attack (TIA), Colorado,
2002Rocky MountainRocky
Colorado, National Park, Glacier
Mountain Gorge
National
Park, Glacier Gorge
At 12:15 pm on August 5, I (43)
suffered a transient ischemic attack
(TIA) four pitches up The Barb on
Spearhead.
As I belayed Kelli’s (my climbing
partner) lead of the fourth pitch I
0 1189
began to have strange sensations in
Avalanche, Poor Conditions, Inexperience,
2002Utah, Utah,
Big left
my Cottonwood
Big The Canyon,
leg.Cottonwood Stairs IGulch
Canyon,
small stance Stairs
was
Gulch
On April 28, Martin Gleich (38), a
doctor from Salt Lake City and Scott
Dull (39), also a doctor, from Eagle
River, Alaska, were killed in Stairs
Gulch, a tributary of Big Cottonwood
Canyon. The pair left the trailhead
0 1190
about 3:30 to 4:00 a.m. to climb Stairs
Climbing Alone and Unroped—Fall into2002
Crevasse,Washington,
Inadequate Clothing
Glacier and Equipment,
Peak, Sitkum Washington, Glac
Glacier
My climbing group, which included
Jason Cass, Janie Cogen, Jon Hayes,
and Yoav Bar-Ness, left camp in
Boulder Basin about 4:00 a.m. on
May 27 and roped up at the base of
the Sitkum Glacier. We could see
0 1191
several other climbing parties starting
Earthquake, Washington, Mount Index 2002 Washington, Mount Index
Chris Olson (28) was exactly where
you don’t want to be when a 6.8-
magnitude earthquake hits: Standing
on a 12-inch ledge 130 feet up a rock
wall.
“I thought I was dead,” he said. “It felt
like the entire rock ledge I was on was
0 1192
going to peel right off the wall and
Failure to Follow Route—Weather, Failure
2002to Turn Back,
us Inadequate
Washington,
take Mount
with it.” Clothing
Baker, and
NorthEquipment, Dehydratio
Ridge
James Genone (25) and I began the
approach to the North Ridge of Mount
Baker on June 7. We had checked the
weather and [noted that] a storm was
expected. The route was reported to
require six to eight hours from a
0 1193
basecamp, so we thought we had an
Fall into Crevasse, Weather, Washington,
2002
Mount Baker, Coleman
Washington, Glacier
Mount Baker, Coleman
Glacier
Rescuers reached two seriously
injured climbers on Mount Baker and
were bringing them down the
mountain in difficult weather
conditions Monday morning.
The drama began on Sunday,
0 1194
September 2, about 11:30 a.m. when
one climber was killed and three
others were injured after falling into a
 Fall on Frozen Scree, Fall Into Crevasse,2002
Failure to Follow Mount
Oregon, Route, Climbing Alone,
Hood, South Inadequate
Side and Clothing an
Cathedral Ridge
In late August, Bob Considine (38)
was visiting Oregon from Missouri. He
had a guidebook and intended to
climb the “Sunshine” route on Mount
Hood. He parked his truck at Cooper
Spur Ski Area and hiked up to the
0 1195
stone hut above Cloud Cap, spending
Fall on Frozen Scree, Inadequate Equipment
2002 and Clothing, Inexperience,
Oregon, Three SistersOregon, Three Sisters Wildernes
Wilderness,
Middle Sister
On September 29, Pete Acker (39)
and Jeff Soulia (22) were descending
a steep snow and scree slope north
west off the 10,040 foot summit of
Middle Sister when Pete lost his
footing and slowly started to slide. He
0 1196
was unable to stop himself and rapidly
Fall on Ice, Climbing Unroped, Inadequate
2002Equipment, Colorado,
Colorado, RockyRocky Mountain
Mountain National Park, Longs P
National
Park, Longs Peak
On August 8 at 0745, Scott McLeod
(23) and Dana Drummond (age
unknown) were ascending the North
Chimney (II AI 1 5.6) on the East
Face of Longs Peak. Although
primarily a rock route, the North
0 1197
Chimney contained hard alpine “black
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Equipment—Dull 2002
Crampons, Oregon,
Oregon, Mount
Mount Hood,
Hood, SouthSide
South Side
On March 23, two climbers (both 22)
were descending the South Side
standard route on Mount Hood. One
of the climbers lost his footing at the
“Pearly Gates” (roughly 11,000 feet)
and took a tumbling fall down the
Hogs Back, coming to rest near the
0 1198
Devils Kitchen (10,300 feet). Injuries
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Exceeding
2002 Abilities, New Hampshire,
New Hampshire, Frankenstein
Frankenstein Cliff, Standard Rou
Cliff,
Standard Route Left
On February 17, the strongest leader,
Tom, had apparently done the first
(crux) pitch just fine. The second
leader, Jim, fell while attempting the
20-foot bulge above. He decked on
one of the ledges and broke his ankle.
0 1199
Jim immobilized the ankle with ice
Fall on Ice—Ice Broke Off, Misjudged 2002
Conditions,NewNewHampshire,
Hampshire,Frankenstein
Frankenstein Cliffs,
Cliffs,Cave Route
Cave Route
I reached the top of the headwall on
the Cave Route—approximately 50
feet high. The poor quality of the ice
precluded me from placing more than
one screw on the climb. At this point
the belay anchor was approximately
0 1200
seven feet up on an angled slope.
 Fall on Ice—Mediocre Ice Quality, Inadequate
2002 Protection, New Hampshire,
New Hampshire, Frankenstein
Frankenstein Cliff, Cliff, Pegasus
Pegasus
On March 14 the climber started up
the lower right side of Pegasus. This
was the most interesting side of the
climb at this time and it had been
done many times. The ice was
chandeliered and somewhat “funky.”
0 1201
He was approximately seven feet up,
Fall on Indoor Climbing Wall—No Protection,
2002 Minnesota,
Minnesota,Duluth, Vertical
Duluth, Endeavors
Vertical Climbing Gym
Endeavors
Climbing Gym
Tom Upham (27) was climbing the
wall with friends about 9:00 p.m. when
the accident occurred in the Bananaz
Family Entertainment Complex.
Upham said, during a phone call from
the hospital Friday afternoon, that he
0 1202
was more than 20 feet up the wall
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone—Separated 2002from Party,
whenFailed
Oregon, to Follow
he Mount
pushed Route,
Jefferson,
off to Nodown.
Hard Hat, Oregon, Mou
Whitewater
come
Glacier
On June 24, while descending from
camp after a weather-shortened
climb, Robert Stockhouse (28)
decided to descend via a non-
standard route rather than remain with
his companions who insisted on
0 1203
descending the route they had used
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Oregon,
2002 Smith Rock, Lyon's
Oregon, Smith Chair
Rock, Lyon's Chair
On July 7, Christopher Ekstrom (22)
was leading the first pitch of Lyon’s
Chair in the Morning Glory Wall area
of Smith Rock State Park. Lyon’s
Chair is a three star route rated 5.11a
and requiring gear to 3.5 inches
according to Alan Watts’ Climber's
0 1205
Guide to Smith Rocks. “The start of
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Utah,
2002IndianUtah,
CreekIndian Creek
During the first week of April, Paul
Sullivan, Ian Herring, Matt Pinkley, Bill
Saul, and I (40) hit the ground running
on our first day. Really, Matt and I had
never been in an environment like
“Wall Street” near Moab, Utah, and
we hit the first crack we came to like
0 1206
kids in a candy shop. At Wall Street
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, West
2002Virginia,
WestSeneca Rocks,
Virginia, Triple Si
Seneca Rocks, Triple
Si
Regrettably I must report my
involvement in another climbing
accident. I was leading Triple Si, a
dihedral climb on August 10. About
ten feet from the top, I was having
trouble figuring out a crux move and
0 1207
decided to put in a stopper at the
 Washington, Snowqualmie Pass,
Chair Peak
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Wisconsin,
2002 On September
Devil's Lake State
Wisconsin, 8,Park
Devil's Chad
Lake Engstrom
State Park(23)
tumbled
Two climbers (who are guides)a were
about 600 feet down 45-
degree rock slope while
setting up individual top-ropes when climbing with
his uncle, who saw the
John (21) heard the sound of a fallingaccident.
Rescuers
backpack.ran John outcalled
of daylightout to and
Elaine
planned to return to
(20) and received no response. the site today to
recover
Knowingthe young man’s
immediately the body.
gravity of
The pair wereJohn
the situation, aboutplacedtwo-thirds of the
the clients
0 1208 way up the east face
in a safe position andof ran6,238-foot
to the aid of
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, New
2002
Hampshire,
ChairCannon
New Peak, Cliffs,
Hampshire, Vertigo
aboutCannon
two miles Cliffs,
north of
Vertigo
Interstate 90. After the two had
Daniel Chaffee
reached (20) was climbing
an overhanging horizontalon
Vertigo.
band He wasabout
of granite on the150 second
feet frompitch
when
the he fell they
summit, 70 feet when and
unroped his started
protection pulled
scrambling up theout.loose Chaffee was
rock, said
caught
King by hisdeputy
County partnerRandy Ryan Potter.
McKeon.
He came
The uncle,within 20 feet of hitting
a less-experienced the
climber
0 1209
ground.
from Sammamish, grew
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No2002
Hard Hat,Utah,
Utah,Little
LittleCottonwood
Cottonwood Canyon, Canyon, Pentapitch
uncomfortable and stayed behind.
Pentapitch
Shortly afterward, he heard rock fall,
On May 19, Michael Thurgood (24),
then saw his nephew fall, Potter said.
Alex Santy (17), and BJ Huff (19),
Mountain rescuers said the accident
were climbing Pentapitch, a 5.8 route
occurred right next to a much easier
on the south side of Little Cottonwood
route the Seattle-based Mountaineers
Canyon. Michael led the second pitch,
frequently use for training. The route
belayed by Alex. As he approached
0 1210 the two were on was moderate in
the end of the pitch, the rope drag
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Oregon, technical
2002 Smith Rock, Crack
Oregon, difficulty—5.5,
Smith ofRock,
Infinity Crackbut other
of Infinity
experienced
On June 3, Rod Lucas (45)it’s
climbers said wasa tricky
one to safely navigate.
leading Crack of Infinity, a 5.10b trad
Another
route rated party of climbers,
three stars, requiringWebster, gear
Peter
to three inches, according to of
and Scott Bergford, all Alan
Olympia,
Watts’ Climberscalled 911Guide on to a cell
Smith phoneRock.
about 1:00 p.m. when
Rod released his hold on the they came
across the climber’s
overhanging crux justshredded
three feetpack,
0 1211 its gearhis strewn about the loose
above last solid piece and toscree his
Fall on Rock, Unroped, Possibly Off Route,
2002Washington, Guye the
Washington,
basin below Peak
Guyepeak.Peak A few yards
On
away,October
they saw 13, the
Kenbody.Colburn (49) was
climbing
The uncle rappelled downafrom
Guye Peak with friend his
when he fell 300 feet
perch but left his rope hanging over a clifffrom
to his
death.
the The two
anchors. The had just unroped
Bergfords freednear the
the summit
rope, gathered when thethey
dead reached
climber’s easier
terrainand
gear, after climbing
built a memorial the west cairnface.
to
Ken was
help traversing
rescuers locateacross
the body. moss-
0 1212
covered
They wet until
waited rocksearly
above the 300-foot
evening for
Fall on Rock, Washington, Snowqualmie 2002
Pass, Chair Peak
searchers to arrive, then headed
down the trail at dusk when no one
came. Rescuers had been forced to
abandon their efforts throughout the
afternoon while they responded to two
other accidents. (Source: Craig
Welch, Seattle Times staff reporter,
0 1213 September 9)
 Fall on Rock—Failure to Clip into Quickdraw,
2002 Weather, Inadequate Rumney
New Hampshire, Equipment—Shoes,
Crags New Hampshire,
Mark (33) and I have been climbing
together for a few years now. I
recently took a lead climbing course
and have already led a few climbs.
Our new friend, Hande (21), was
interested in climbing and today was
going to be her introduction to the
0 1214
sport. We decided to climb at
Fall on Rock—Poor Position, Inadequate 2002
Protection, Oregon,
Oregon, Smith
Smith Rock,Zebra
Rock, Zebra
On June 23 Grant Pease (38) was
leading Zebra, a 5.10a trad route
rated three stars and requiring gear to
three inches, according to Alan Watts’
Climbers Guide to Smith Rock. Grant
was high on the wall on a near
horizontal traverse of a thin crack
0 1215
leading to the Zion route finish. He
Fall or Slip on rock, Belayer Error, North
2002
Carolina, Crowders
North Mountain
Carolina, State Park,
Crowders Gumby's Roof
Mountain
State Park, Gumby's Roof
Ringo Willoughby (31) and a female
friend were top-rope climbing in the
Gumby’s Roof area on Crowders
Oregon, Smith Rock State Park,
Mountain during the afternoon of
Misery Ridge Mesa
Saturday April 21. Ringo was
On October 17, Brent Bishop (19) and
approximately 20 to 25 feet on route
0 1216 his friend Jason (19) were scrambling
when he fell. His belayer was unable
Falling Rock, Oregon, Mount Jefferson,2002
Milk Creekthe fourthMount
Glacier
Oregon, class Jefferson,
route to theMilk topCreek
of the
Misery
Glacier Ridge Mesa at Smith Rock
State
While Park when
crossing theBrent
northpulled
couloir loose
of a
hand hold near the top of
Milk Creek on July 1, two climbers the climb.
He
(bothfell32)
about
were 40ascending
feet, breakingout ofhistheleg
and cutting his scalp. 911
bottom of the couloir on firm snow. was quickly
called.
One was Redmond
crossingFire the and
bottomRescue
of the
assisted
couloir whenby Deschutes
a rock struck Countyhim Search
in the
0 1217 and Rescue approached from the
forehead.
Falling Rock, Party Separated—Climbing 2002Alone, Oregon,
ExceedingNorth
Crooked Abilities,
River Sister
below Oregon, North
the Gully andSister
On July 10, three people,
performed a high angle rope and including
Matt Gorman,
stretcher rescue were climbing
descent to athe North
wheeled
Sister. The terrain became
stretcher and a waiting ambulance. more
technical than Mr. Gorman’s climbing
Analysis
com- who has been bouldering for a
Brent,
panions
while, were
says hecomfortable
wants to learn with,
to soclimb
they ropes.
with proceededHe saysbackhe down
has themore route
0 1218
of ascent.
respect forMr. Gorman
fourth class elected
climbingto
Falling Rock, Utah, Arches National Park2002 continue to
following histhe summit alone. While
accident.
This is one of several scrambling
accidents at Smith Rock. The volcanic
scree and friable rock in various
locations in the State Park contribute
to many calls for assistance from Park
Rangers and Rescue units. (Source:
0 1219 Robert Speik)
 Falling Rocks and Objects, Inadequate Communication,
2002 Colorado,
Colorado, Eldorado
Eldorado Canyon,
Canyon, Bestowal Crack
Bestowal
Crack
I was on Werk Supp at the belay after
the first pitch when a party on
Bestowal Crack decided to set belay
anchors in the Choss Gully (5.5-5.6
rated last pitch of Bestowal Crack).
They managed to rain down a
0 1220
bucketful of pebbles and a brand new
Falling Snow Block, Washington, North2002
CascadesWashington, North Cascades
On July 24 at 2:00 p.m., National
Outdoor Leadership School Instructor
Jon Stamp and five students left their
camp on the saddle between Dome
and Dana Glaciers. They were
traveling in two rope teams of three,
wearing helmets and carrying light
0 1221
day packs. They were headed west to
Fatigue—Fall on Ice, Inexperience, Colorado,
2002 Rocky Mountain
Colorado, National
Rocky Park, Main
Mountain Falls
National
Park, Main Falls
On December 8 about 1000, Aaron
Shupp (22) fell 20 to 30 feet while
leading the Main Falls Route (I WI4)
at Hidden Falls. Shupp said that he
was about 10 feet beyond his last ice
screw when he began to “sketch out.”
0 1222
He attempted to place protection but
Fatigue—Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow
2002
Route, Exceeding
Wisconsin,Abilities, Wisconsin,
Devil's Lake StateDevil's
Park, Lake State Park,
Chicago
Two male climbers (ages unknown)
were leading Chicago (5.9) at Devil’s
Lake State Park. “Josh” climbed the
crux of the route but soon after got
lost. He spent some time searching
for the proper route, and after time his
0 1223
strength diminished and he fell. The
Handhold Came Off—Fall on Rock, Inadequate
2002 Belay, Inexperience,
Washington, Faulty Instruction, Washington, Wilk
Wilkeson
On July 7, I (25) took S.P. (22), my
girlfriend of a year, for a day of
instructional rock climbing and
rappelling. I have been rock climbing
for four years and mountaineering on
a half-dozen Cascade volcanoes. She
had no experience doing either. S.P.
0 1224
is about 25 pounds lighter than I am.
Heart Attack, Washington, Mount Rainier
2002 Washington, Mount Rainier
In early August, Lawrence “Laury”
Minard (51), a Seattle native who had
moved to London to edit and write for
Forbes Global Magazine, collapsed
and died around 12,000 feet up Mount
Rainier during a guided climb.
The Pierce County Medical
0 1225
Examiner’s Office on Friday reported
Minard died of arteriosclerotic
cardiovascular disease, or ASCVD.
 Inadequate Water—Dehydration, Exhaustion,
2002 North Carolina,
North Moore's
Carolina, Wall,Wall,
Moore's Sentinel Buttress
Sentinel
Buttress
At approximately 1800 on June 6,1
received a radio communication from
seasonal office assistant
RyanMoorefield. He had received a
call from Stokes County
Communications that a climber on
0 1227
Moore’s Wall had phoned 911 by cell
Knot Came Apart—Fall on Rock, Inadequate
2002 Protection, Utah, Ferguson
Utah, Ferguson Canyon,
Canyon, Mission Impossible
Mission
Impossible
On July 19, “Dan” (25), and “Jim”
decided to beat the heat in the Salt
Lake valley by climbing in cool, shady,
Ferguson Canyon. Dan scrambled
around to set up a top-rope on
Mission Impossible, a 5.9 crack on the
0 1228
Cathedral. He clipped quickdraws to
Lightning—Poor Position, Utah, Canyonlands
2002 National
Utah, Park, LightningNational
Canyonlands Bolt Cracks
Park,
Lightning Bolt Cracks
The incident happened on Thursday,
April 12 at about 12:15 p.m. Peter
Carrick (Assistant Manager for Pacific
Edge Climbing Gym) and I (Pat Kent)
were on Lightning Bolt Crack. There
were six climbers in our group: five
0 1229
from Santa Cruz, the others being
Lost Climbers—Weather, Off Route, Inadequate
2002 Equipment,
Washington, Washington, Silver Peak
Silver Peak
On September 25, a party of two
males attempted to climb Silver Peak
on a very wet, foggy day. Part way up
the ridge from Lake Annette, they
started to get into the open rock
scree, decided that conditions were
too bad, and turned around. As they
0 1230
started back down, they got off route
Nut or Chock Pulled Out, Poor Position,2002
North Carolina, Moore's Wall,
North Carolina, Sentinel
Moore's Wall,Buttress,
SentinelZoo View
Buttress, Zoo View
On September 2, Ron Lantham (37)
and friends were climbing Zoo View,
(5.8) a popular climb on Sentinel
Buttress. After completing the first
pitch, Lantham, the leader,
constructed a belay anchor under a
0 1231
large roof. He placed the belay anchor
Off Route—Unfamiliar with Descent, Weather,
2002 Wyoming,
Wyoming, Grand
GrandTeton National
Teton Park,
National Grand Teton
Park,
Grand Teton
On June 11 around 0100, Swis
Stockton and Michael Feldman left
the Lupine Meadows trailhead with
the intention of climbing the Exum
Ridge on the Grand Teton in a one-
day effort in an attempt to beat a
0 1232
predicted storm. They had just arrived
 Out of Bounds—Lost, Inadequate Clothing 2002and Equipment,
Wyoming,Wyoming, Grand
Grand Teton Teton National
National Park, Park, Rock S
Rock Spring Canyon
On February 6 at 1330, Cameron
Morgan (25), Jonathan Gagne (25),
and Katherine Gagne (24) left the
Teton Village Ski Area boundaries
with the intent to ski out of bounds in
Rock Springs Canyon. They were on
0 1233
alpine skis and a snowboard. The
Protection Pulled Out—Fall on Rock, Inadequate
2002 Belay—Rope
New Diameter
Hampshire, too Small,
Cathedral New Hampshire, Cath
Ledge,
Retaliation
The leader, A1 (30s), was climbing
and was below the crux at the niche.
He had just placed a cam and was
yanking on it to test the placement
when it pulled out. He lost his balance
and fell striking the wall. He and his
0 1234
partner Tammy did not fall to the
Edited Title: Rockfall during training, Utah,
2002 Arches National
Utah, ArchesPark
National Park
On March 7, a large rockfall occurred
during a technical rock rescue training
session being conducted in the Park.
Seventeen people were attending the
training. The rock, estimated to be
between 30 and 40 feet long and
weighing over one ton, fell nearly 300
0 1235
feet from the top of a sandstone cliff.
Rappel Error, Rope Failed—Inadequate2002 Equipment, Utah,
Utah, Millcreek
Millcreek Canyon
Canyon
On August 16, “Jim” (28) and “Kirk”
(32) set up a sport-rappel at a small
crag in Millcreek Canyon. They used
an old cotton rope from Kirk’s toolbox
and tied off natural features at the top
of the crag for an anchor. About
halfway down, Jim bounced hard
0 1236
during his rappel and the rope broke.
Stranded, Inadequate Belay, Utah, Big Cottonwood
2002 Canyon,
Utah, Bumblebee Wall
Big Cottonwood Canyon,
Bumblebee Wall
On July 21, “Pat” (31), successfully
led Perseverance Bulge, a two-pitch
5.9 route on Bumblebee Wall, near
the Storm Mountain Picnic Area in Big
Cottonwood Canyon. He sat on the
ledge at the top of the second pitch
0 1237
and put “Betty” (22), on belay, but he
Stranded, Inexperience, New Hampshire, 2002
Cannon New
Cliff,Hampshire,
Whitney Gilman
Cannon Cliff,
Whitney Gilman
On October 12, New Hampshire Fish
and Game received a report of two
individuals with a stuck rope on the
Whitney Gilman rock climb. Joe
Lentini and another EMS guide took
the tram to the top and walked across
0 1238
to the top of the climb with a 300 foot
 Belay Anchor Failure—Knot Came Undone,
2002 Fall Wyoming,
on Rock, Wyoming, GrandNational
Grand Teton Teton National
Park, Park, Mount
Mount Owen
On the evening of September 3, a cell
phone call reported an Exum client
with a sprained anlde on the West
Ledges of Mount Owen. Tanya
Bradby of Seattle, WA, was on a
guided climb of the Grand Traverse.
0 1240
After spending the night of September
Failure to Test Holds—Handhold Came2002
Off, Fall Wyoming,
on Rock, Wyoming, Wind
Wind River River Range, Jackson Peak
Range,
Jackson Peak
On August 11 about 1100, Bev
Boynton (51) and David Moore of
Jackson, WY, were finishing the final
pitch on the South Buttress of
Jackson Peak in the Wind River
Range of Wyoming. While Boynton
0 1241
was leading at about 12,800 feet, she
Failure to Test Hold—Handhold Came Off,
2002Fall on Rock, Wyoming,
Wyoming, Grand National
Grand Teton Teton National
Park, Park, Grand T
Grand Teton, Petzoldt Ridge
On July 20, Ben Wessler (20) was
leading the pitch above the Window
on the Petzoldt Ridge of the Grand
Teton. He placed a piece of protection
with a long sling about eight feet
above the belay ledge. About four feet
0 1242
above the piece, he tested a large
Fall on Rock, Wyoming, Grand Teton National
2002 Park, Table Mountain
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park,
Table Mountain
On August 8, Don Rassler reported
that his climbing partner, Ben
Goodwin (22), had fallen about 10-20
feet while down-climbing the first pitch
of Heartbreak Ridge on Table
Mountain around 0830. He barely
0 1243
began to catch Goodwin on the
Falling Rock—Fall on Rock, Improper Belay
2002 Technique,
Wyoming,Inadequate Protection,
Grand Teton Wyoming,
National Park, Grand Teton N
Nez Perce
On June 30 about 9:30 a.m., Jeff
Heinrichs (29) of Jackson, WY, took a
leader fall on Nez Perce. He was
unable to walk after the fall, so his
partner, Dave Simpson (33), went for
help.
0 1244
Heinrichs was leading the first pitch of
Handhold Came Off—Fall on Rock, Wyoming,
2002 Grand what Teton
Wyoming, National
Grand
he thought Park,
Teton
was Symmetry
theNational Spire
Park,
South Ridge
Symmetry Spire
of Nez Perce, but in fact he was east
On July
of the 28, Laura
normal Plaut
route. (35) trying
He was was to
treated and evacuated from near the
summit of 10,546-foot Symmetry
Spire after she fell about 100 feet,
shattering her left elbow and breaking
a bone in her left foot. Plaut and her
0 1245
climbing partner sought out a hiker
 Handhold Came Off—Struck by Rock, 2002Wyoming,Wyoming,
Grand Teton National
Grand TetonPark, Disappointment
National Park, Peak
Disappointment Peak
On August 17, John Taylor (29) was
climbing the Lake Ledges route on
Disappointment Peak when he
dislodged a rock. The rock struck him
on the left chest, and then hit his feet
and ankles. He tumbled about ten feet
0 1246
after the rock passed. His sister ran
Rappel Error—No Back-Up on Rappel,2002 Fall on Rock, Being in
Wyoming, a Hurry,
Grand Wyoming,
Teton National Grand
Park,Teton National P
Grand Teton, Owen-Spalding
On July 18, Ryan Sasser (27) and I,
Holly Beck (26), got a late start out of
our Moraine Camp on the Grand
Teton due to an early morning
rainstorm. Hiking up to the Lower
Saddle, we reached the base of the
0 1248
Petzoldt Ridge around 8:00 a.m. We
Rock Pulled Off—Broke Climbing Rope, 2002
Fall on Wyoming,
Rock, Wyoming,
Wind Wind
River River
Range,Range, Cirque of the Towe
Cirque
of the Towers, Wolf's Head Peak
On September 22, Michael “Scott”
Shaw (31) of Talkeetna, Alaska, died
in a mountaineering accident while
descending Wolf’s Head Peak in the
Cirque of the Towers.
Scott and Alex Everett (both National
0 1249
Outdoor Leadership School
Avalanche, Ice Anchor Failure-Fall on Ice,
2003BaffinBaffin
Island,Island,
Auyuittuq
instructors) National
Auyuittuq
summited Park,
National
Wolfs Mount
HeadPark,Breidablik
Mount Breidablik
Peak via the East Ridge around 4:10
On July 8, after reaching the summit
of Mount Breidablik, a group of 14
began descending their route of
ascent. They had climbed the
prominent glacier visible from Summit
Lake at Pangnirtung Pass. The snow
0 1250
and ice slope is 45 degrees at its
Avalanche, Poor Position, Weather, Alaska,
2003Mount ForakerMount Foraker
Alaska,
On April 6, the Talkeetna Ranger
Station received mountaineering
registration forms for Kevin Strawn
(27), Travis Strawn (21) and Colby
Strawn (15). They intended to climb
both the West Rib on Mount McKinley
and either the Southeast Ridge or
0 1251
Northeast Ridge on Mount Foraker.
Avalanche-Backcountry Snowboarding,2003 Poor Position, Alaska,
Alaska, MountMount St. Elias
St. Elias
On April 7, John Griber was carefully
working his way down a 45-degree ice
face on Mount St. Elias. He turned at
the sound of a “swish” above. Forty to
50 feet away, he saw companion
Aaron Martin (32) off his skis on his
side and sliding. Griber watched for
0 1252
30 seconds as Martin slid hundreds of
 Equipment Failure through Improper Use-Inadequate
2003 Anchor,
Québec, Quebec, Sageunay
Sageunay National Park, Cap Trini
National Park,
Cap Trinité, Les Grands Gallets (5.9,
A2+, 350 m.)
A couple began their planned three-
day outing to climb Les Grands
Gallets at Cap Trinité on Saturday
August 4. They were seen climbing
around 100 meters up on Les Grands
0 1253
Gallets (5.9, A2+) on Saturday. On
Exposure-Weather, Inadequate Clothing2003and Equipment, Hypothermia,
California, YosemiteFall on Rock-Unable
Valley, El to Complete
Capitan
In late December, Joseph Crowe (25)
began fixing pitches on the Zodiac (VI
5.7, A) on El Capitan, intending to
solo the route. By mid-afternoon on
the 5th, he was just finishing pitch-3
with plans to fix pitch-4 and to return
0 1254
to the ground that evening.
Failed to Turn Back, Inadequate Clothing2003
and Equipment,
California,Weather, Poor Position-Bivouac Site
Split Mountain
In October, the climb up our twelfth
14,000-foot peak, Split Mountain, did
not go well. One member of our
climbing party, Dave French, was
hospitalized for frostbite afterward and
is still recovering.
It was early October. Dave, his son
0 1255
Sean, Sean’s friend Matt, their college
Fall in River, Packs Too Heavy, Misperception,
2003 Alaska,
Alaska,
professorMcKinley
McKinley River
River and I were
Tom Campbell
My three pals and
expecting late summer I (25,conditions
25, 35, 39)with
were visiting Denali National Park with
plans to climb Mount Brooks. The
approach features a ford of the
McKinley River. The river is a mile
wide in all, but quite braided. Most of
the braids can be simply splashed
0 1256
through, but some are quite serious.
Fall into Crevasse (1) and Fall on Ice/Windslabbed
2003 Snow, Mount
Alaska, Inadequate Protection,
McKinley, WestDescending Unroped, Fa
Buttress
On May 15, a five member Spanish
expedition, “Gambo De Palamos,” left
their camp at 17,200 feet to attempt
the south summit of Mount McKinley.
Shortly after leaving, Rafael Morillas-
Cabrerizo turned back due to a
0 1257
headache. At 1400, Enrique Llatser-
Fall into Crevasse, Alaska, Talkeetna Mountains
2003 Alaska, Talkeetna Mountains
At 1700 on April 26, Alpine Ascents
guide Brian McCullough (42) was
traveling with three clients on an
unnamed glacier in the Talkeetna
Mountains when he broke through a
snow bridge and fell fifty feet into a
crevasse. McCullough landed at the
0 1258
bottom of the crevasse on his left
 Fall into Crevasse, Climbing Unroped, Alaska,
2003 Alaska
Alaska,Range, Idems
Alaska Peak Idems Peak
Range,
On March 24, Karoline Frey (27), a
German graduate student at the
University of Alaska, Fairbanks, died
after falling 90 feet into a crevasse
while snowshoeing down a glacier
about 45 miles south of Delta
Junction.
0 1259
Martin Stuefer was one of three
Fall into Crevasse, Distracting Illness, Unseasonable
2003 Warm
Alaska,
friends Weather,
Mount
on Alaskas,
McKinley,
the ski trip Mount
West
Sunday withMcKinley, West Bu
Buttress
Frey. Stuefer said the group decided
An
to skiAlpine
and Ascents
snowshoe International
to the summit of
guided party led by Forrest McCarthy
descended from the 14,200-foot camp
on May 27, after their climb on the
West Buttress. While descending the
standard route on the Kahiltna
0 1260
Glacier, client Derek Joynt (33), fell
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Alberta,
2003Banff Alberta,
National Banff
Park, Bow FallsPark, Bow
National
Falls
On February 12, The Mountaineers
party began their approach across the
frozen lake at 9:00 a.m., with all on
snowshoes except Gordon Schryer
(32), who was on skis. They arrived at
the base of the snow slope leading to
0 1261
Bow Falls about 11:00 a.m. A British
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, British
2003
Columbia, Golden
British Canyon,Golden
Columbia, Lady Killer
Canyon,
Lady Killer
On March 11, while leading the first
pitch of Lady Killer (II W13), A.M. fell
after placing three screws on the first
half and then running it out to the top.
He fell to the ground and sustained
pelvic and spinal injuries. Volunteer
0 1262
SAR groups from Golden responded
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Exceeding
2003 Abilities, Colorado,
Colorado, Ouray, Ouray,
Ouray Ouray Ice Park
Ice Park
John Ohlson (61) was leading Pic O’
the Vic (WI 4) in the Ouray Ice Park.
He led up to a stance at a cave—
about 20 feet up, and placed an ice
screw. He then continued up the next
section, which was nearly vertical.
About 20 feet above his screw
0 1263
placement, he came off. He
Fall on Ice, Protection Pulled Out-Ice Tool,
2003Alberta, Banff Banff
Alberta, National Park, Professor
National Park, Falls
Professor Falls,
On March 10 at 1130, T.M. was
leading the last pitch of Professor
Falls (III WI4). She was having some
difficulty placing a screw due to the
brittle nature of the ice and clipped the
rope into her tool to rest. She was a
0 1264
little over ten meters above her last
 Fall on Ice, Protection Pulled Out-Ice Tool,
2003Alberta, Banff Jasper
Alberta, NationalNational
Park, Professor Falls
Park, Shades
of Beauty
On November 25, three experienced
ice climbers were climbing Shades of
Beauty (III WI4), a three-pitch
waterfall ice route in the Sunwapta
River Valley of Jasper National Park.
L.P. (33) had led the first pitch, and at
0 1265
the base of the second pitch, R.W.
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
2003 British Columbia,
British Dowler
Columbia, Range,Range,
Dowler Mount Dougie Dowler
Mount Dougie Dowler
N.S. (25) departed around noon on
November 26, from Quadra Island by
boat and landed at the most easterly
of three creeks on the south side of
Bute Inlet to attempt a solo climb of
Mount Dougie Dowler (6,363 feet) in
0 1266
the Dowler Range on Bute Inlet, about
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone, Inadequate2003Protection, Inadequate Equipment-No Helmet and No Climbing
Colorado, Eldorado State Park, Red
Garden Wall
On September 14, Kirk Chynoweth
(31) was soloing Redguard on Red
Garden Wall when he fell about 50
feet. Two people got up to the victim
before Alex and I did. Then the EMT
0 1267
and others members of Rocky
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Exceeding
2003Abilities, Alberta,
Alberta, Jasper
Jasper NationalPark,
National Park,Morro
Morro Slabs
Slabs
On June 22, a family group and
friends were climbing at Morro Slabs,
a low angle practice area near the
road, east of Jasper, Alberta. The
group was being supervised by the
father of the accident victim. Some of
0 1268
the party were climbing on top-ropes,
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, California,
2003 Yosemite Valley,
California, El Capitan
Yosemite Valley, El
Capitan
On the morning of May 26 Thaddeus
Josephson (20) and I, (Ben Mathews
— 26) were starting our fourth day on
Sunkist (VI 5.9 A4) on El Cap.
Thaddeus polished off pitch 14, the
spectacular A3-4 pitch shown on the
0 1270
cover of Don Reid’s Big Walls
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Inadequate
2003 Clothing
At 4 a.m.and
onEquipment,
September Weather California, Yosemite V
30, I (Tom
Randall—22) started up Eagle’s Way,
VI 5.8 A3, on El Cap, in an attempt to
break the solo record. I had checked
the weather with the rangers at the
Wilderness Center and was given,
“...sunny for the next two days,”
(ample time for me to do the route)
1 1271
and received the same from a
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection-No2003
Stopper Knot, Haste,
Alberta, Inattention,
Cougar Canyon,Alberta, Cougar Canyon, Slowpo
Slowpoke
“On Saturday, July 13, we gave a
lesson on what happens when you
vary from your normal safety routine
and don’t check all your gear. We
were putting up a top rope on
Slowpoke, a 30-meter, 5.8-rated climb
with a high first bolt and a high belay
0 1272
station (about 15 feet above Cougar
Fall on Rock, Miscommunication, Colorado,
2003 Rocky MountainRocky
Colorado, National Park, Lumpy
Mountain Ridge, Whiteman
National
Park, Lumpy Ridge, Whiteman
On March 20, there was a very nasty
accident up at Lumpy Ridge that
happened to a very experienced
climber (in his 30’s). He fell about 110
feet from the top anchor of the first
pitch of Whiteman (11c, Guillotine
0 1273
Wall at Lumpy) due to apparent
Fall on Rock, Off Route, Inadequate Protection,
2003 Alberta,
Alberta,Canmore,
Canmore, Mount Fable,
Mount Southeast Ridge
Fable,
Southeast Ridge
On August 28, F.L. and S.H. were
climbing the Southeast Ridge of
Mount Fable (Alpine II, 5.5). F.L
states: “ When we got to the base of
the buttress, it was hard to tell where
the route was, since the buttress
0 1274
looks like a big steep wall. So we
Fall on Rock, Protection Failed-Rock Block,
2003 Failure to TestJasper
Alberta, Hold, Alberta,
NationalJasper
Park,National
Hidden Park, Hidden V
Valley
On May 19, Peter R. (49) and Jack W.
were climbing a single pitch route in
Hidden Valley, a quiet climbing area
east of Jasper. While leading, Peter
decided to sling a large block to use
as protection. When weighted, the
0 1275
block pulled out and Peter fell about
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Alberta,
2003 Ghost River, Ghost
Alberta, Duveinafees
River, Duveinafees
On October 8, around 1400, B.W. was
leading the second pitch of
Duveinfafees (5.7) when his right foot
slipped while bridging and lay-backing
a comer. He pulled a fixed pin, a cam
(2.5 Friend) and was caught by two
fixed pins slung together. He fell
0 1276
about 25 meters hitting a ledge in a
Fall on Rock, Solo Climbing with No Protection,
2003 Colorado, Boulder
Colorado, BoulderCanyon,
Canyon,TheTheDome
Dome
On October 26, Scott Hamilton (49)
lost his grip while climbing a difficult
route on The Dome without ropes,
safety gear, or a helmet. He fell more
than 150 feet, hit a steep slope and
tumbled another 100 feet into Boulder
Canyon. Witnesses climbing nearby
0 1277
told authorities that they heard a yell,
 Fall on Rock-Uncontrolled Rappel, Inadequate
2003 Backup, Colorado,
Colorado, ClearClear
CreakCreak Canyon
Canyon
On October 20, I took a friend out to
climb. It was her very first time, so I
wanted to toprope something that was
fairly easy. The climb is called
Countersuit, a 5.9 toprope. She’s very
athletic so I thought a 5.9 would be a
good challenge. The anchors (a set of
0 1278
bolts, each bolt with a chain) were on
Fall on Snow, Climbing Alone, Exhaustion,
2003Alaska, MountMount
Alaska, McKinley, DenaliDenali
McKinley, Pass Pass
On June 19, a solo climber from
Canada, Michael Heck (61), of the
“Whitevale” expedition flew onto the
Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna glacier
to begin a climb of the West Buttress.
On June 28, Heck arrived at the
17,200 foot camp on the West
0 1279
Buttress, and the following morning
Fall on Snow, Party Separated-Climbing2003Alone, Fatigue,
Alaska,Alaska,
MountMount McKinley,
McKinley, DenaliDenali
Pass Pass
On May 18 at 0600, Kunibert
Gramlich, from Germany, stumbled
into the 17,200-foot camp on the West
Buttress of Mount McKinley and
requested assistance from National
Park Service Ranger Mik Shain.
The Swiss Denali 2002 expedition
0 1280
began their ascent of Mount McKinley
Fall on Snow, Unbelayed, Exhaustion, Alaska,
2003 Mount on MayMcKinley,
Alaska, 11 andWest
Mount Rib-Notch
McKinley,
arrived at West Camp
Rib—
the 14,200-
Notch Camp
foot camp four days later. Following a
At 1430, on June 18, Russ Watts (33)
—from Italy, fell 150 feet from the
Notch Camp on the West Rib. Watts
reported that he was investigating the
snow conditions on the West Side of
camp when he slipped on icy
0 1281
conditions and tumbled toward the
Fall through Cornice, Off Route, Unroped,
2003Alberta, Banff National
Alberta, Park, Mount
Banff National Park,Balfour
Mount
Balfour
On April 12, N.F., a ski patroller from
Whistler and member of the ACC
Whistler section, was skiing the
Wapta Icefield traverse with two
companions, D.S. and G.M. They
were equipped with a copy of Murray
0 1282
Toft’s Wapta Traverse composite topo
Falling Ice Alberta, Banff National Park,
2003
Louise Falls
On March 7, three climbers were
climbing the left line of Louise Falls (II
WI4+). The temperature in the Lake
Louise area had been at around zero
degrees C, then dropped to -26
degrees C in the couple of days
before March 7. The lead climber had
lead the left edge of the crux pillar and
0 1283
up to a tree belay. He led the route
 Falling Icicle, Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection
2003 Alberta,
On March Waterton Lakes National
2, a climber was fivePark,
to Cameron Lake R
seven meters into a lead on Pearl
Necklace (50 m. WI 5+), without
placing any protection. He had placed
a tool and kicked one foot into a free-
hanging icicle when it broke. The
climber barn-doored backward, then
fell, hitting the ground shortly after the
0 1284
large icicle. He landed feet first then
Falling Rock, Alberta, Jasper National Park,
2003 Mount Athabasca,
Alberta, North
Jasper Ridge Park, Mount
National
Athabasca, North Ridge
On August 21, Jeff (age unknown)
and Andrew (33) were ascending the
North Ridge (III 5.5) of Mount
Athabasca. After crossing the North
Glacier they ascended a short
snow/ice gully to the ridge proper.
0 1285
While changing the rope from glacier
Falling Rock, Poor Position, California,2003
Mount Shasta, Avalanche
California, MountGulch
Shasta, Avalanche
Gulch
On June 8,1 (Tim Derouin) was
climbing up Avalanche Gulch on
Mount Shasta with Mike Chase and
his brother Steve. The weather over
the past few days had been quite
unsettled and very windy. The
0 1286
previous day almost no one made it to
Falling Rock, Weather, Yukon Territory, 2003
Mount Augusta, North Buttress
Yukon Territory, Mount Augusta,
North Buttress
At 1500 on June 18, South District
Ranger Daryl Miller in Talkeetna, AX,
was phoned by Charlie Sassara’s
wife, Siri Moss, about an accident on
Mount Augusta—a border peak 20
miles northeast of Mount St. Elias on
0 1287
the U.S.- Canadian border. In the U.S.
Falling Rock-Fall on Rock, California, Yosemite
2003 Valley, Middle
California, Cathedral
Yosemite RockMiddle
Valley,
Cathedral Rock
On June 2, John Kurth, 33, and
Casey Shaw, 39, were climbing the
Direct North Buttress (17 pitches) on
Middle Cathedral Rock. Shaw led
pitch 15 at about 6:00 p.m., following
a chimney. Twenty to 30 feet before
0 1288
the belay, he came over a lip to find
Falling Rock-Fall on Rock, Failed to Follow
2003 Instincts, California,
California, Yosemite
Yosemite Valley,
Valley, LostLost Brother
Brother
On September 29,1 set out with
Christian Dragheim and Chris Kerr,
fellow members of the Cragmont
Climbing Club, to explore the Lost
Brother, a seldom-visited formation on
the south side of Yosemite Valley
0 1289
between Sentinel Rock and the
 Fatigue-Pulmonary Infection, Dehydration,
2003Inadequate
Alaska,Equipment-No Stove, Direct
Mount McKinley, Alaska,West
Mount McKinley, D
Buttress
At 2121 on June 2, Jim LaRue (45)
and River Lee-Elkin (27) of the “NW
Buttress 02 ” expedition, after
spending over forty hours on the
Direct West Buttress, were assisted
(including providing water) by National
0 1290
Park Service volunteer Wayne Fuller
HAPE, HACE, Climbing Alone, Alaska,2003 Mount McKinley, West Buttress
Alaska, Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
At 1813 on May 27, Joshua Wax (28),
a solo climber experiencing symptoms
of high altitude cerebral edema
(HACE) and high altitude pulmonary
edema (HAPE), was evacuated by
helicopter from approximately 18,800
0 1291
feet on Mount McKinley’s West
Loose Rock Came Away-Fall on Rock, 2003Failed to Follow Instincts,
California, Sugar California,
Loaf Sugar Loaf
On January 12, Jon Hanlon and I
were enjoying a fabulous winter day of
rock climbing at Sugar Loaf. We spent
the morning on a couple of the area
classics, and at lunch decided that we
would ascend the east chimney, a 5.7
route that had been added to the list
0 1293
of recommended climbs in the last
Slip on Snow, Climbing Unroped, Unable2003to Self-Arrest, Inadequate Equipment,
British Columbia, British Columbia, Selkirk
Selkirk Mountains
South, Mount Billy Budd
On August 18, J.C. and G.H. departed
from a climbing camp located on north
side of Houston Lake on a “day off’
hike to Houston Pass at about 1200.
J.C. was a very experienced
mountaineer with between 20 to 25
0 1294
years experience. The two climbers
Slip on Snow-Unable to Self-Arrest, British
2003Columbia,
BritishSelkirk Mountains,
Columbia, SelkirkPalisade Mountain
Mountains,
Palisade Mountain
On August 19, two members of a
week-long climbing camp based at the
Great Cairn Hut were descending the
north side of Palisade Mountain on
intermittent snow slopes. Around 4:30
p.m., and approximately 200 meters
0 1295
above the glacial valley floor, D.M.
Stranded Due to Medical Condition, Alberta,
2003 Banff National
Alberta, Park,National
Banff Mount Temple, East Ridge
Park, Mount
Temple, East Ridge
On August 27, while on a solo ascent
of the Aemmer Couloir variation (IV
5.7) of the East Ridge of Mount
Temple, W.K. started having
neurological problems while
ascending the couloir. He bivvied on
0 1296
top of the couloir and attempted to
 stiff.
slow Iawas a mess.
climbing party I wasdown goingandto may
commit myself to climbing
restrict individuals options for evasive down that
day, and then the helicopter
action should an emergency occur. showed
up.”
Be aware of the risks of helicopters in
Back home J.S.
mountainous and his other
environments.
Stranded, Poor Conditions, Alberta, Banff
2003 roommates
National Park, The
Alberta,
Helicopters hadn’t
Finger
Banff National
should become
onlyPark,be usedconcerned
Thewhen
about
Fingeris no other practical resort,when
there C.F. until Thursday night,
he
On failed
where Septemberto show
lives are 28, atup a for
party
stake, his
and ofshift
two
time atwas
is
work.
reported
of By then,
overdue
the essence. there was
from a climb
Climbers no point
may joke in
on the
alerting
previous
about rescue
day.inAcrews
calling search
air because
support by Warden
for blisters
nothing
or a pizza drop, but the fact ofdark.
Service could
rescue be done
crews in
was the the At
initiated
first
and light
the Friday,
party was they
located
matter is that helicopters can set upcalled on in the
the
alarm,
rappels
extremely and by 4:00
ondangerous
the northp.m. side Alpine
of The and
conditions
0 1297 Helicopters pilot Lance Cooper had
Finger (II 5.5). They
lives can become at risk when theyhad spent the
Stranded-Off Route, Inadequate Research,
2003 Exceeding Abilities,
Alberta,
spotted Alberta,
Waterton
their friend. LakesWaterton
The National
sight Lakes
of the National Park, Cr
are used in the mountains.
Park,
chopper Crandell
sent Mountain,
one thought Tick Ridge
throughon to
Helicopters cannot be depended
A group
C.F.’s of 25,
head: including five
“Somebody likes me.”
perform in all conditions. Rescuers
teacher/leaders
Cooper and 20 gradeto 10–11
and rescuees must always makethe
had to hover in close
students,
rock wall wereprovincial
with attempting the
conservation
contingency plans, even if a helicopter
“moderately-difficult”
officer Randy scramblefrom
Axanitodangling up Tick
is initially available assist in the the
Ridge
end of on
a Crandellrope.
100-foot Mountain. Axani Several
rescue.
group members
managed to make and leaders
it to the had
1 1298 Pay attention and follow theledge,
difficulty with
scrabble throughfooting
a andwall
rock exposure
C.F. on
had
Stranded-Solo Climbing, Climbing Unroped, instructions
2003 Inadequate of mountain rescuers;
Equipment/Clothing, Weather, Alberta, Peter Lou
built for
they areprotection
trained in from the risks the wind,
and and
snapped the stranded
techniques of conducting mountain climber into a
harness. Back home,
rescues. In this case, several roommate J.S.,
one of C.F.’s frequent
bystanders and some members of the climbing
partners has leveled
involved climbing teams an ultimatum.
assisted with
“He’s grounded. No climbing
the rescue efforts. This assistance for a
week.” (Source:
was extremely helpful and Carol Picard, Rocky
1 1299 Mountain Outlook)
appreciated and may have saved
Avalanche, Poor Position, Inadequate Equipment,
2003 New Hampshire,
New
lives. Hampshire,
However, when Mount
Mount Washington,
Washington,
rescuers Tuckerman Ravin
Tuckerman
directed Ravinenot directly involved
everyone
Tom the
with Striker
hoistand Tony Tulip,
operation to clear hiked theup
in to Tuckerman
area underneath Ravine on November
the helicopter, some
29. The firstdeclined
bystanders in the ravine,to descend.they hiked As a
to the base
result, far tooof many
an open lives bookwere onput theat
right of center
risk when and decided
the helicopter to climb it
crashed.
straight up. Tom belayed
(Sources: Steve Rollins—Portland at an
0 1300
exposed bulge and
Mountain Rescue, and Tim Baily— put in thee screws
Fall into Crevasse, Unable to Self-Arrest,
2003Inadequate Protection, Poor Position, Oregon, Mount Hood, Stan
Criminalist Investigator)
(Editor’s Note: The story of the
helicopter crash was thoroughly
covered by television and several
newspapers. Details are not provided
here for that reason and because it
was not a mountain climbing
0 1301 accident.)
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Belayer
2003 Not Oregon,
Anchored,Smith Oregon, Rock,Smith Rock, Spiderman
Spiderman
Nathan Sanborn (27) was climbing the
first pitch of Spiderman, a four star
classic climb rated 5.7 by Alan Watts
(trad gear to three inches) when he
slipped off about three feet above his
last protection and fell an estimated
12 to 15 feet due to rope stretch and
0 1303
an inadvertent dynamic belay. The toe
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Poor
2003Position-Bad Foot Placement
Washington, for Setting
Mount Erie, Snag Pro, Washington, Mou
Buttress
I am a climber of about three years,
much of that indoors. On October 26,
my friend Mark, a very experienced
climber, was teaching me how to set
protection. I had led many outdoor
sport routes but, I had never set my
1 1304
own protection before. We were both
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Poor
2003Technique,
NewNew Hampshire,
Hampshire, Cathedral
Cathedral Ledge, Recompense
Ledge,
Recompense
On June 28, Bayard Russel (26) and I
(Rand McNally—48) were climbing
Recompense (5.9). I was leading the
first pitch and we were using a
doublerope technique, which I had
only done once before. The first pitch
0 1305
is moderate (5.7) and well within my
Fall on Rock, Protection Came Out, No 2003
Hard Hat,North
NorthCarolina,
Carolina, Linville Gorge,
Gorge, North
NorthCarolina Wall
Carolina Wall
On September 8, Colin Treiber, (20),
and his partner were climbing
Bumblebee Buttress (5.8), located on
the North Carolina Wall in the Linville
Gorge Wilderness Area. Treiber, an
experienced climber, lost his balance
0 1306
before he was able to clip into his fifth
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out-Old2003
Piton, Utah,
Utah,Little Cottonwood
Little CottonwoodCanyon, GateGate
Canyon, Buttress
Buttress
On November 19, “Mike” (44) fell
while leading the second pitch of
Perhaps, a two-pitch 5.7 route at the
Gate Buttress in Little Cottonwood
Canyon. The end of the second pitch
is a long horizontal traverse. It’s an
0 1307
under-cling in a wide crack for the
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled, Carabiner
2003Broke,Washington,
Exceeding Abilities, Washington,
Frenchman' Frenchman's Coulee,
s Coulee,
Air Guitar
On September 30, the famed Swedish
adventurer Goran Kropp died from a
fall while rock climbing. He was
leading Air Guitar, a 65-foot 5.10a
crack that requires precise nut and
cam placements. Kropp was near the
0 1308
top of the route when he fell some 60
Fall on Rock, Rope Severed, New Hampshire,
2003 Eagle New Cliff, Shape Shifters
Hampshire, Eagle Cliff, Shape
Shifters
Steve Dupuis and Jon Sykes, both
experienced climbers, were
attempting to free a climb they had
put up as an A4 aid climb some time
before. On October 14, they met at
the parking lot to sort gear. They had
0 1309
a 60 meter, 10.2 mm and 60 meter, 9
 FALL ON ROCK–LOWERING ERROR, 2003NO HARD
Utah,HAT,
ZionOregon, Smith
National Rock
Park, State Park, Left Slab Cra
Spaceshot
On May 21, Roeslain Tamin (35) fell
180 feet to his death while rappelling
from the popular climbing route
Spaceshot in Zion National Park.
Evidence and interviews lead to the
following sequence of events.
Tamin and his climbing partner
0 1311
Richard Connors (29) had climbed the
Fall on Snow, Weather, Exposure, Moving 2003Too Slowly, Washington,
Washington,
first four ofMount
Mount
pitches Rainier,
Ranier,
Spaceshot onLiberty
LibertyMay Ridge
Ridge
20, then descended, fixing lines on
On May 29, Mount Rainier National
Park communications received a 911
cell phone call from a climbing team
at St. Elmo’s Pass. They were
requesting a rescue for Andreas
Kurth, another climber who reported
0 1312
having an accident near Liberty Cap
Fall or Slip on Rock, North Carolina, Pilot
2003Mountain
NorthState Park Pilot Mountain State
Carolina,
Park
On Friday, February 22, I (J.W.
Peterson) was walking along the cliff
top when I heard Brian Zimmerman
(20) yelling and sliding down the rock
face below the Ledge Springs Trail. I
called to the climbers on the trail
0 1313
below and asked them if anyone was
Fall while Descending-Inadequate Equipment
2003 (Climbing Rope, Rappel
New Mexico, JemezDevice, Harness,
Mountains, Brain Cells), New
Yoyo
Pit
On May 16, a man and his girlfriend
were on an excursion in the Santa Fe
National Forest, which had been
closed due to extreme fire danger.
Yoyo Pit is a popular spot for vertical
rope work as the pit is straight vertical
0 1314
until about half way down where it
Falling Ice-Fall on Ice, New York, Adirondacks,
2003 Poke-O-Moonshine
New York, Adirondacks, Poke-O-
Monshine
Ice on the first pitch of the popular
160-foot climb “Positive Thinking”
broke off Poke-O-Moonshine Friday
and crashed to the ground, taking an
Ontario climber with it.
Kevin Bailey (34) was about 135 feet
0 1315
up and anchoring himself to the east
Falling Rock, Washington, Mount Rainier,2003Dissappointment
side of theCleaver
Washington, Mount Ranier,
mountain when the ice split
Disappointment
and detached. His Cleaver
climbing partner,
On September 23 about 5:30 a.m., a
rock struck and killed noted double
amputee climber Ed Hommer. Mr.
Hommer and three companions were
climbing the Disappointment Cleaver
route in preparation for an attempt
0 1316
next year on Mount Everest.
 Falling Rock, Weather, Late Start-Climbing
2003Too Slowly, Washington,
Washington, MountMount
Ranier,Rainier,
LibertyLiberty Ridge
Ridge
Around 11:30 a.m. on June 25, Mount
Rainier Park Communications
received a 911 call from a team of
three climbers requesting a rescue
from 9,700 feet on Liberty Ridge. The
team reported that one of their
0 1317
members, Jessie Whitcomb, had
Lightning, Utah, Lone Peak 2003 Utah, Lone Peak
On July 26, Trent (28) and Alexis
Pabst (23) were killed by a lightning
strike on the summit of Lone Peak.
Together with Trent’s younger brother
Tyler (18), the couple had climbed
The Open Book, a five-pitch 5.7 route
that leads straight to the 11,253-foot
0 1318
summit. Tyler led the final pitch. After
Edited Title: Belay Lowering Error, No 2003
Backup, Smith Rock
Oregon, Smith Rock State Park, Left
Slab Crack.
On November 29, Kathy Lee and her
friend Becky Hsu (both 27) were
meeting some new friends at The
Dihedrals at Smith Rock. The friends
were late, so Kathy and Becky
decided to warm up with Left Slab
0 1320
Crack rated 5.4 two stars by Alan
Abandonment—Creating a Hazard, Alaska, 2004MountAlaska,
McKinley, West
Mount Buttress West
McKinley,
Buttress
Joseph Klopack (51) and his 15-year-
old son Joseph, Jr. checked into the
Talkeetna Ranger Station on June 3,
where Ranger John Leonard briefed
them. The pair flew to the Kahiltna
Basecamp later that day, the starting
0 1323
point for their climb of Mt. McKinley. It
Avalanche, Alberta, Banff National Park,
2004
Mount Wilson,
Alberta,Wilson Major Park, Mount
Banff National
Wilson, Wilson Major
On January 10, J.W. (29) and J.S.
(23) were approaching the ice climb
Wilson Major on Mount Wilson. They
had climbed up the WI III approach
pitches of Lady Wilson’s Cleavage
and were traversing the steep snow
0 1325
slopes below Wilson Major when they
Avalanche, British Columbia, Glacier National
2004 Park, Mount
British Cheops Glacier National
Columbia,
Park, Mount Cheops
On February 1, a high school
backcountry ski group comprised of
three adults and 14 students was
traveling on the Balu Pass Trail, about
five kilometers west of the Rogers
Pass summit. Parks Canada had
0 1326
warned that avalanches were possible
 Avalanche, British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains
2004 North,
British Durrand
Columbia,Glacier
Selkirk Mountains
North, Durrand Glacier
On January 20, a group of eleven
backcountry skiers was caught in an
avalanche. Three people were able to
extricate themselves and they dug out
one injured person. Seven other
skiers perished from asphyxia. The
0 1327
avalanche was as much as 30 meters
Avalanche, Climbing Alone, Alberta, Canmore,
2004 Mount Lady
Alberta, MacDonald
Canmore, Mount Lady
MacDonald
On or about March 13, J.F (20)
decided to make a solo scramble
towards the summit of Mount Lady
MacDonald. He was not one to follow
the regular path and likely ascended
directly toward the summit on the left
0 1328
side of an obvious gully on the West
Avalanche, Poor Position, Weather, Peter
2004
Lougheed Park, Mount
Alberta, Murray, R&D
Peter Lougheed Park, Mount
Murray, R & D
On November 11, a party of ice
climbers on the route R & D on Mount
Murray in the Ranger Creek area, was
hit by a size 1 to 1.5 avalanche before
beginning the climb. One of the party
had fallen after the avalanche had
0 1329
come to rest, breaking a bone in his
Climbing Alone, Disappeared, Possible 2004
Fall into Crevasse, British Climber,
British Columbia, Mount Mount
Robson Robson Provincial Park
Provincial Park, Mount Robson
On July 31, L.B. (23) departed Berg
Lake to climb Mount Robson’s Fuhrer
Ridge with a planned descent of the
Kain Face. He failed to return as
planned and a Parks Canada rescue
team was notified. After two days of
0 1330
helicopter searching, a dog search of
Dehydration, Unable to Get to Mittens—Frostbite,
2004 Alaska,Mount
Alaska, Mount McKinley,
McKinley, West
West Rib
Rib
On May 3rd, the three-member
expedition, Rocky Mountain West Rib,
led by Fabrizio Zangrilli, flew in to the
Kahiltna Glacier to attempt the West
Rib. On the 17th, they ascended the
1200-foot West Rib Couloir. On this
ascent, Roger Pennington (age
0 1331
unknown), a member of the
Dehydration—Exhaustion, Minor Frostbite,
2004Climbing TooMount
Alaska, Slowly—Failure
McKinley,toMessner
Turn Back, Alaska, Mount
Couloir
At 0500 on June 3, Jan Markup (27),
Petr Hoffman (27) from the Czech
Republic, and Camelo Lopez from a
Colombian-American expedition, who
had asked to climb with the Czechs,
left the 14,200-foot camp to attempt
0 1332
the Messner Couloir from which the
 Dental-Laceration and Bicuspid Fracture, 2004
Alaska,Alaska,
Mount McKinley, West Buttress
Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
On June 5th, RMI guide Brent Okita
brought a 17-year-old client to the
14,200-foot medical tent to have a
dental check. The prior day, the client
was eating a frozen nougat bar, and
bent a braces collar outwards which
0 1333
presendy was lacerating the inside of
Fall into Crevasse, Placed Inadequate Protection,
2004 Time ofColumbia,
British Day, British Columbia,
Mount Mount Robson Provincia
Robson
Provincial Park, Mount Robson
On August 31, Richard Denker (48)
and Bob Breivogel (52) were making
their way up the Robson Glacier to
the Dome. At 1645 while weaving
through the “Mousetrap,” a crevasse
field at approximately 2,900 meters,
0 1334
Breivogel fell through a snow bridge
Fall on Ice, Alberta, Banff National Park,
2004
Five Mile Creek,Banff
Alberta, MountNational
Cory, Dumber
Park, Five Mile
Creek, Mount Cory, Dumber
On January 19, D.B. and G.H. were
top-roping an ice climb known as
“Dumber” above Five Mile Creek on
the east slopes of Mount Cory. While
attempting to step up on his crampon
after placing his tools, G.H.’s foot
0 1335
slipped and he smashed his knee
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Protection
2004 (Tools)
NewPulled Out, New
Brunswick, TheBrunswick,
Quarry The Quarry
Description: On March 1, three
experienced climbers set out for a day
of ice climbing at a climbing area
known as the Quarry in New
Brunswick. G.P., the leader for the
first climb selected a moderate 25-
meter single-pitch climb that he had
0 1336
led before. The ice appeared to be
Fall on Ice, Protection (Tools) Pulled, Alberta,
2004 Banff National
Alberta, Park,
Banff MountPark,
National Murchison,
MountBalfour Wall
Murchison, Balfour Wall
On February 9, R.C. (40) was with a
large group climbing on the Balfour
Wall, an area with a variety of one-
pitch top-ropeable ice climbs on the
lower slopes of Mount Murchison in
Banff National Park. R.C. was about
0 1337
halfway up a pitch that he was leading
Fall on Ice, Unroped, Alberta, Banff National
2004 Park, Johnston
Alberta, Canyon
Banff National Park, Johnston
Canyon
On February 13, L.R. (26) and her
boyfriend (L.) were doing some ice
climbing at the upper falls in Johnston
Canyon, a popular area of one pitch
top-ropeable ice climbs. L.R.
unclipped from the belay station,
0 1338
which was about ten meters up some
 Fall on Rock, Alberta, Banff National Park,
2004Lake Alberta,
Louise, Back
BanffofNational
the Lake Park,
Crag, Lake
Ash Wednesday
Louise, Back of the Lake Crag, Ash
Wednesday
On October 10, T. (24) and his
partner D., were climbing at the Back
of the Lake crag area near Lake
Louise. T. was leading the 10.b route
Ash Wednesday when he fell and
0 1339
injured his ankle. His partner lowered
Fall on Rock, Alberta, Banff National Park,
2004Moraine Lake,Banff
Alberta, Schiesser Ledges
National Route
Park, Moraine
Lake, Schiesser Ledges Route
On July 23, G.A. (62) was a member
of a guided party that was on a
multiday traverse in the ten peaks
area in Banff National Park. The party
had climbed up to The Neil Colgan
Hut from the Fay Hut and had spent
0 1340
two days ascending peaks in the
Fall on Rock, British Columbia, Squamish,
2004LowerBritish
Malamute Area Squamish, Lower
Columbia,
Malamute area
On August 6, a 23-year-old male from
the United States fell while rock
climbing in an area known as the
Lower Malamute. He narrowly missed
hitting the railroad tracks when he fell.
He was transported to the Squamish
0 1341
Hospital assisted by employees of BC
Fall on Rock, California, Yosemite Valley,
2004Manure Pile Buttress
California, Yosemite Valley, Manure
Pile Buttress
On May 23, Irene Appelbaum (41)
and Ricardo Lagos (28) climbed the
Nutcracker (five pitches, 5.8) on
Manure Pile Buttress, with Ricardo
taking all the leads. On the final pitch,
he placed a small cam just above the
0 1342
crux 5.8 mantle and did the move. He
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
2004 Alberta, Kananaskis
Alberta, Country,
Kananaskis Mount Mount
Country, Lorette
Lorette
On July 15, a 23-year-old man, who
had set out on a solo climb of Mount
Lorette’s South Ridge (5.6), failed to
return home as expected. He left a
note describing the planned route and
expected return time. A search was
0 1343
mounted by Kananaskis RCMP,
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
2004 Alberta, Kananaskis
Alberta, Country,
Kananaskis Mount Mount
Country, Lorette, South Ridge
Lorette, South Ridge
On February 17, A.S. (18) set out to
make a solo climb of Mount Lorette’s
South Ridge (5.6). His family became
concerned when he did not return
home later that evening as scheduled.
His body was discovered about 120
0 1344
meters from the summit near the
 Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Route, Protection
2004 Pulled Out,
Alberta, Alberta,
Ghost RiverGhost
area,River Area, Bonanza
Bonanza
On September 6, a party of three
were climbing Bonanza, a 5.8 gear
route located in the Ghost River area.
About midway up the route the leader,
J.I. (34), got off route and climbed into
increasingly difficult terrain. He placed
three pieces of protection before he
0 1345
fell. The uppermost piece, a nut,
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Route, Protection
2004 Pulled Out,
British British Bugaboo
Columbia, Columbia,Glacier
Bugaboo Glacier Provinci
Provincial Park/Alpine Recreation
Area, Snowpatch Spire
On August 2, having climbed through
the squeeze chimney, two climbers
were ascending the final pitch of the
Kraus/McCarthy route on Snowpatch
Spire. The lead climber mistakenly
0 1346
assumed the 5.10 crack under the
Fall on Rock, Failure to Test Holds, Protection
2004 Pulled Out, Bow
Alberta, Alberta, BowYamnuska,
Valley, Valley, Yamnuska,
CMC CMC Wall
Wall
On June 15, a female climber was
leading on the CMC Wall on
Yamnnska (Mount John Laurie). On
the third pitch near the top, she pulled
out some large loose rocks. She fell
approximately 15 meters, pulling out
0 1347
an old fixed pin, but was held by a
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay/Anchor,2004
British Columbia, Squamish,Squamish,
British Columbia, Stawamus Chief, Exasperater
Stawamus Chief, Exasperater
D.G. (41) fell 30 meters to his death
while rock climbing on the Stawamus
Chief on May 31. D.G. was an
experienced climber who was roped
into a harness at the time of his
plunge from the Chief. D.G. had been
0 1348
climbing with a group on a section of
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, No2004
Hard Hat,California,
California,Yosemite
Yosemite Valley,
Valley, Lower Cathedral Rock
Cathedral Rock
On May 21, Chris Hampson (28) and
Sibylle Hechtel (52) teamed up to
climb Overhang Bypass on Lower
Cathedral Rock. The route is
approximately six pitches, originally
rated 5.6 but considered more difficult
0 1349
since a large block fell from the crux a
Fall on Rock, Inexperience, Alberta, Banff
2004National Park, Cascade
Alberta, Mountain
Banff National Park, Cascade
Mountain
On August 30, N.P. (16), C.B. (18)
and J.P. (17) left Calgary in the
afternoon and drove to Banff to the
base of Cascade Mountain. The three
left their vehicle and started
scrambling up the climbers’ left of
1 1350
Cascade Waterfall. Both C.B. and J.P.
 ledge traverses, lowers down couloirs
(one through a water fall which
soaked her), bollard rappels over
questionable snow bridges, a lot of
sliding over rock strewn glacier ice at
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Alberta,
2004 Banff National
Alberta,
30 Park,
Banff
degrees, and Lake
evenLouise,
National Park,Back
some Lakeof the Lake Crag, Sc
piggy-
Louise, Back
backing. This of the Lake
lasted from Crag,
about 7:30
Scared
p.m. Peaches
until 3:45 a.m. (We did not have
On October
radios.) After19,
theD.W. (24) was
self-rescue leading
back to
Scared Peaches, a 5.12a
camp, I went to the nearest lodge mixed-gear
route
looking onfor
thehorse
Air Voyage
serviceWall at the
out of the
Back of the Lake Crag area
area, but was put in touch with the in Lake
Louise.
wardensHe viawas several
satellite meters
phone andabove
they
0 1351
the
arrived only 45 minutes later. Inplaced
last protection that he had the
Fall on Rock—Foothold Broke, Protection 2004Pulled Out, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Tonquin Valley, Mo
end, it turns out that the worst injuries
were contusions caused presumably
by the rock fall. One very nasty wound
left a fairly deep opening that
projected parallel to the skin’s
surface. It is better that it hit her than
the rope! (Source: C.F., partner of
0 1352 A.M.)
Fall on Rock—Protection Failed, Inadequate
2004 Protection, California,
California, YosemiteYosemite
Valley,Valley,
El El Capitan
Capitan
On May 4, Cam McKenzie (26) and I,
Scott Ring (25), started up our fixed
lines on the Zodiac route (VI 5.7 A2)
on El Capitan. We picked up our haul
bags where we’d stashed them at the
top of pitch three and continued on,
0 1353
hoping to spend the night at the top of
Fall on Rock—Rappel Technique, Arizona, 2004Windy Point Windy Point
Arizona,
On August 31, Joaquin Fox (38) was
climbing with several other people in
the North Fin area west of Windy
Point. He had reached the top of his
climb when he fell 80 feet, still
connected to his rope according to
Pima County Sheriff’s Deputy T.J.
0 1354
Price. Fox was unable to stop himself
Fall on Snow—Inadequate Protection, Haste,
2004 Alaska, Mount
Alaska, McKinley,
Mount WestWest
McKinley, Buttress
Buttress
This incident happened in May while
we were descending the fixed lines of
the West Buttress. We happened to
be the only roped team (as well as our
other two climbing partners ahead of
us on another roped team) allowing
0 1355
for the team ahead of us to get off the
Falling Ice, Alberta, Banff National Park,
2004
Lake Louise, Louise
Alberta, BanffFalls
National Park, Lake
Louise, Louise Falls
On February 22, an ice climber at
Louise Falls was injured in an
accident similar to a fatal mishap that
occurred a year ago at the same
location. He was climbing solo and
using a device to belay himself. The
0 1356
climber had completed the first pitch
 anchors. Rescues take time and eat
up gear very quickly. Prusiks and
locking ’biners are critical when
managing lowers and raises. Speed is
critical. The victim didn’t breathe for
Falling Ice—Dislodged by Leader, Poor2004
Position—Belayer, Alberta, Banff National Park, Weeping Wall,
three to four minutes before we got to
her. The impact was at 11:00 a.m.
and we had her lowered by 11:35
a.m. and in the helicopter by 12:30
a.m. (Source: internet message
board:
www.livethevision.com/wwwboard/me
0 1357 ssages/3636.html)
Falling Rock, Alberta, Jasper National Park,
2004 Mount Fryatt Jasper National Park, Mount
Alberta,
Fryatt
In the early morning of August 29, a
party of four left their bivouac site in
the Geraldine Lakes drainage to climb
the southwest face of Mount Fryatt
(3661 meters). The night had been
clear and there was a frost in the
0 1358
alpine which had coated the rocks
Falling Rock, Alberta, Jasper National Park,
2004 Roche à Perdrix
Alberta, Jasper National Park, Roche
à Perdrix
On October 26, at 0700 J.H. (28) and
M.L. (42) set out to climb the Diagonal
Route on the west face of Roche à
Perdrix. At 1100, they reached the
summit and began a rappel down the
Chimney Route on the North Ridge.
0 1359
The Chimney Route is equipped with
Falling Rock, Fall on Rock, Alberta, Jasper
2004National Park, Jasper
Alberta, Throne Mountain
National Park, Throne
Mountain
On August 16, an experienced party
of five were climbing the notched
northeast ridge of Throne Mountain.
After reaching the summit, the group
was descending, mostly unroped, in
third class terrain. At one of the
0 1360
notches, three members of the group
Falling Rock—Dislodged Rock, Monterrey,2004El Potrero Chico, El
Monterrey, Space BoyzChico, Space
Potrero
Boyz
On December 29, my climbing
partner, Crockett Farnell, and I
(Gordon Wright) were climbing the 11
-pitch route Space Boyz on the west
side of El Potrero Chico, near
Monterrey, Mexico. We had just
0 1361
completed the two hardest pitches (6
Frostbite, AMS, Alaska, Mount McKinley,2004West Buttress
Alaska, Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
In the early morning of May 14, the
team New River George contacted
NPS personnel stationed at the
14,200-foot camp and alerted them
about a climbing party called Team
Homer Company. The former had
0 1362
been monitoring Homer’s descent and
 HACE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West2004 Buttress Alaska, Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
At 1115 on June 13, Frank Brettholle
(51), a member of the “Beer Run”
expedition, was found unconscious by
his team mates in his tent at the
17,200-foot high camp on Denali’s
West Buttress route. His team mates
0 1363
contacted Ranger Meg Perdue and
HAPE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West2004 Buttress Alaska, Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
On June 1, Peter Staples (48) of the
“OSAT,03” expedition, suffered from
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema
(HAPE) while camping at the 17,200-
foot camp on Mt. McKinley’s West
Buttress route. Staples was assisted
0 1364
by his team and National Park Service
HAPE—Ascended Too Fast, Alaska, Mount 2004 McKinley,
Alaska,West Buttress
Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
On May 4, an Austrian party called
Team Outback departed Talkeetna,
for a climb of the West Buttress of
Mount McKinley. Three days later the
group arrived at the 14,200-foot
camp. After one night there, the team
0 1365
attempted a carry to the 17,200-foot
Illness—Colitis, Alaska, Mount McKinley,
2004West Buttress
Alaska, Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
At 1825 on May 19, Christopher
Allewell (age unknown) was assisted
into the 14,200-foot NPS medical tent
by his teammates. His chief complaint
was severe abdominal pain and a mild
headache. Upon examination, pain
0 1366
was localized in his mid quadrant,
Inadequate Anchor and Belay, British Columbia,
2004 Bugaboo Glacier Provincial
British Columbia, BugabooPark/Alpine
Glacier Recreation Area
Provincial Park/Alpine Recreation
Area, Snowpatch Spire
On July 18, a group of five climbers
had climbed the Kraus/McCarthy
Route on Snowpatch Spire. They
were moving down to a rappel station
and the victim (a sixty-four year old
0 1367
male) was down-climbing, belayed
Inexperience—Party Separated and Unroped,
2004 Dehydration—Exhaustion,
Alaska, Mount McKinley, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West B
West
Buttress
Just before 0600 on the morning of
June 8, Alexey Volkov (27) contacted
VIP Michael Dong at the 14,200-foot
Ranger Camp. Volkov was concerned
that one of his teammates, Sergiy
Voytovych (28) had not yet arrived at
0 1368
camp. Dong awakened Ranger Meg
 Knee Injury, Inexperience, Alaska, Mount2004
McKinley, WestMount
Alaska, Buttress
McKinley, West
Buttress
On May 30, the two members of the
Sled Dog expedition, Matt Sachs (34)
and June Braugham (40) were
evacuated from the 14,200-foot camp
on Denali. On the 29th, Sachs
sustained a knee injury while climbing
0 1369
to the fixed lines and requested
Late Start, Failure to Follow Route, Darkness,
2004 Stranded,
Alberta,Alberta, Kananaskis
Kananaskis Country,
Country, MountMount Indefatigabl
Indefatigable
On September 14, two women (28
and 36), from Canmore spent the
night on a cliff ledge after darkness
forced them to interrupt their climb of
the Joy route on Mount Indefatigable.
They left Canmore at about 9:00 a.m.
0 1370
and did not start their ascent of this
Rappel Failure—Inadequate Anchor, Alaska,
2004 Moose's Tooth,
Alaska, ShakenTooth,
Moose's Not Stirred
Shaken Not
Stirred
In the early morning of May 1, around
0200, Kevin Cooper and Ryan
Jennings (ages unknown, as they did
not register) were descending from
the “Shaken Not Stirred” route on the
Moose’s Tooth. The two had begun
0 1371
their second- to-last rappel utilizing a
Strained Back, Alaska, Mount McKinley, 2004
West Buttress
Alaska, Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
On the afternoon of June 2, an RMI
guided group was ascending below
the fixed lines around 15,000 feet
when assistant guide Ryan Sorsdahl
(24) twisted awkwardly and felt
something “pop” in his lower back.
0 1372
Keil Hillman, lead guide, assessed
Avalanche, New Hampshire, Canon Mountain,
2004 BlackNewDike
Hampshire, Canon Mountain,
Black Dike
Two climbers were up to attempt the
Black Dike in the beginning of April.
They weren’t really thinking about the
possibility of an avalanche. It’s not
clear how often anyone thinks of that
small gully sliding. In retrospect all the
0 1373
ingredients were there. Perfect slope
Dehydration—Inadequate Water, Weather, 2004California, Yosemite
California, Valley, Valley,
Yosemite El Capitan
El
Capitan
On September 22, Mark Gunlogson
(41) and I, Micha Miller (41), started
up New Dawn wall (VI 5.8 A3) on El
Captain. The weather before our
ascent had been unseasonably warm
(low 90’s), with cooler temperatures
0 1374
forecast for the coming week. We
 Fall on Ice—No Belay, California, Sierra
2004
Nevada,California,
Mount DanaSierra Nevada, Mount
Dana
On October 12, my wife, Ann (28) and
I, Pedro Frigola (28), attempted a
one-day ascent of Mount Dana via
Dana Couloir, a popular 1,000-foot ice
climb rated Class 4 ice/snow. Dana
Couloir lies within the Ansel Adams
0 1375
Wilderness in the Sierra Nevada
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
2004 California, Temple
California, Crag, Crag,
Temple Venusian Blind Arête
Venusian
Blind Arête
Linnea Erickson (age 22) had told a
friend that she planned to solo climb
the Venusian Blind Arête route (IV,
5.7) on Temple Crag. On Friday,
October 24 Linnea left her camp at
Third Lake carrying a light pack
0 1376
containing climbing shoes, chalk bag,
Fall on Rock, Fatigue, Inadequate Protection,
2004 Washington, Cascades,
Washington, Chimney
Cascades, Rock
Chimney
Rock
On July 6, on the sixth pitch of the
East Face of Chimney Rock, Ralph
Leach (50) was leading. He was
showing signs of fatigue after moving
about 20 feet. He had two pieces of
pro in. After trying for a while two get
0 1377
a third piece in at about 30 feet, he
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Anchor, Inadequate
2004 Communication, California,
California, Yosemite Yosemite
Valley, Valley, Ranger Rock
Ranger
Rock
On the morning of September 11, E
(25), N (27), and L (26) set out to
climb the popular Nutcracker route in
Yosemite Valley (5.8, five pitches). All
three climbers were comfortable
leading traditional routes at this level,
0 1378
and they reached the top of the third
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Inexperienced,
2004 Colorado,
Colorado, EldoradoCanyon
Eldorado Canyon State
State Park, Calypso
Park, Calypso
On September 5, a climber (44) who
was the third man on the rope started
up the first pitch on Calypso when he
fell, causing him to pendulum and
thus hit the wall, resulting in breaking
an ankle.
0 1379
Analysis
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, New
2004
Hampshire,
New Cathedral Ledge,
Hampshire, Recompense
Cathedral Ledge,
Recompense
In October, on the third pitch of
Recompense, my partner, Mark, was
ten feet from topping out and went to
plug a cam and popped off. He was
15 feet above his last piece, so with
rope stretch fell about 3 5 feet and hit
1 1380
the small ledge about 15 feet above
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, New
2004
Hampshire,
New Saco Crag, Roadside
Hampshire, Attraction
Saco Crag,
Roadside Attraction
On Saturday, May 31, a first-season
leader and his partner were starting
up Roadside Attraction, 5.9+ on Saco
Crag, north of Cathedral Ledge. The
leader used a nut as his first piece to
protect the opening crux moves and
0 1381
had fallen onto the gear several times.
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection/Belay,
2004California, Tahquitz
California, Rock, The
Tahquitz Step
Rock, The Step
On October 19, we believe that David
Kellogg (32) and Kelly Tufo (41) had
completed the climb and had finished
up on Super Pooper or White
Maiden’s Walkway. They were taking
down their belay system when one of
them slipped, pulling both of them off.
0 1382
They fell about 700 feet to their
Fall on Rock, Oregon, Middle Sister 2004 Oregon, Middle Sister
On August 15, Trent Gabel (16) fell to
his death, most likely from dislodging
rocks, while attempting to climb a
route on Middle Sister. He was with
Pathfinders Youth Group from
Tillamook, and at the time of his fall
was accompanied by an adult. But
0 1383
they became separated when Gabel
Fall on Rock, Party Separated, Oregon, 2004
North Sister
Oregon, North Sister
Dr. Bruce Shively (55) slipped on the
steep friable volcanic rock slopes
below the summit of North Sister and
fell 600 vertical feet to his death,
down one of three possible chutes.
Shively was last seen about 2:30 p.m.
on Saturday while descending the
0 1384
dangerous unstable slopes. He
Fall on Rock, Protection Came Out, Colorado,
2004 Boulder Canyon,
Colorado, Cobb Canyon,
Boulder Rock Cobb
Rock
A 20-year-old Air Force Academy
cadet fell about 65 feet while still
attached to his line during a climb at
Cobb Rock in Boulder Canyon on
August 17. The initial report from a
witness who called 911 about 3:20
0 1385
p.m. was that the man, Martin K.
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inexperience,
2004 California,Yosemite
California, Yosemite Valley, Sunnyside Bench, Jam Cr
Sunnyside Bench, Jam Crack
On September 11, Kristen Shive (26)
was attempting to lead Jam Crack.
She fell after placing a second piece
of protection on the first pitch. The
protection held, then held again on
her second fall. On the third attempt,
0 1386
she fell again and the protection came
 Fall on Rock, Rappel Anchor Failed, California,
2004 Yosemite National
California, Park,National
Yosemite Cathedral Peak
Park,
Cathedral Peak
On July 2, Aaron (28), Mark (48),
Chad (28), and Brian (49) started up
the West Pillar of Eichorn Pinnacle
(five pitches, 5.9 or 5.10b). Brian was
unable to manage the first pitch, so he
chose to wait at the base while Aaron,
0 1387
Mark, and Chad finished the route.
Fall on Rock, Weather, California, Tuolumne
2004 Meadows, DaffTuolumne
California, Dome Meadows, Daff
Dome
On July 29, Hope Wolf (28), an
instructor for the Yosemite
Mountaineering School, was leading a
group of six clients back from a day’s
climbing at Daff Dome when they
were caught by a mid-afternoon
0 1388
downpour. In similar weather a week
Fall on Rock—Climber Lowered off End 2004
of RopeOregon,
by Belayer, Oregon,
Smith RockSmith
StateRock
Park,State Park, Magic Ligh
Magic Light
On February 21, Timothy Garland
(24) climbed Magic Light in the
Overboard Area of Smith Rock State
Park. Magic Light is a bolted route
rated 5.12b, two stars by Alan Watts
in his Climber’s Guide to Smith Rock.
0 1390
The lower portion is rated 5.11a and
Fall on Rock—Dislodged Rock, Off Route,
2004Fatigue, California,
California, Sierra
Sierra Nevada,Clyde
Nevada, Clyde Minaret
Minaret
On Saturday, August 16th, Justin
Schwartz of Belmont, CA, and Steve
Sosa, of Los Angeles, CA, set off to
climb the South Face of 12,300-foot
Clyde Minaret. Justin and Steve knew
one another well, having been a
1 1391
climbing team for more than 20 years,
Fall on Rock—Dislodged Rock, Weather, 2004
Colorado, Snowmass
Colorado, MountainMountain
Snowmass
They’d waited a year to take another
stab at summiting Snowmass
Mountain after weather forced them to
turn back last summer. On Saturday,
two climbing buddies finally reached
their goal, only to have their
celebration end in tragedy.
0 1392
A fluke accident coming down the
Fall on Rock—Rappel Error (No Back-Up),
2004and Dislodged
On Rocks
September
mountain Washington,
22,the
claimed William Snow
a 51-Creek Wall, Outer S
life ofTharpe
(28) died in a rappelling accident
year- old Littleton hiker, who tumbled on
Snow Creek Wall near Leavenworth,
to his death as his horrified friend
Washington. Tharpe and his partner,
M (27), were climbing Outer Space, a
popular, six pitch, 5.9 route. M led the
route’s crux 5.9 pitch above Two Tree
Ledge. Tharpe then started leading
0 1394
the more moderate pitch that ends on
 Fall on Rock—Rappel Error, No Belay 2004
or Backup,OnInexperience
March 15,North Carolina,
Russell Pilot was
Page (22) Mountain State Park
participating in a rappel training
exercise near one of the access
gullies, west of the Amphitheater. He
was with a group of EMS/Firefighters
from Forsyth Community College
(NC) when he fell to the ground
below.
0 1395
The instructor, Mike Maher, also a
Fall on Snow—Unable to Self-Arrest During
2004 Voluntary Glissade,
Washington,
witness Poor Position,
to theMount Rainier
accident Weather,
that theWashington, M
National
stated
Park, Mount Ruth
group of ten students had just
On June 22,
completed a instructional
the group of ninesection of
Mountaineers and I set off to attempt
Mount Ruth, a spur-peak on the north-
east flank of Mount Rainier. As we
encountered snow several hundred
feet below Glacier Basin, the starting
0 1396
point of our ascent, Mount Ruth would
Falling Rock, Poor Position, Montana, Beartooth
2004 Wilderness, Silver RunWilderness,
Montana, Beartooth Peak
Silver Run Peak
On August 24, around 0600, my wife,
Rebecca Hodgkin, and I left camp —
located just off the West Fork of Rock
Creek Trail near Quinnebaugh
Meadows—to climb Pensive Tower
(III 5.8) on Silver Run Peak. At
0 1397
approximately 1100 we started the
Falling Rock, Wyoming, Grand Teton National
2004 Park, Grand Teton
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park,
Grand Teton
Around 1900 on July 15, 2002, Teton
County Sheriff’s Office (TCSO)
received a 911 call from Richard
Whipple reporting a climbing accident
on the North Face of the Grand Teton.
The TCSO transferred the call to
0 1398
Teton dispatch, who in turn
Falling Rocks, Big Cottonwood Canyon,2004
Storm Mountain
Utah, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Storm
Mountain
On February 17th, Kris (27) was hit by
spontaneous rockfall while practicing
solo aid-climbing on Six-appeal, a 5.6
bolted route at the Storm Mountain
picnic area in Big Cottonwood
Canyon. The bolts are spaced widely
0 1399
on this route, and he was placing
Falling Rock—Dislodged, Colorado, Boulder
2004 Creek Canyon Boulder Creek Canyon
Colorado,
On July 16, Emergency squads
rescued a man who was pinned on
the bank of Boulder Creek when a
rock the size of a couch crushed his
leg this morning. The man, identified
as Boulder resident Douglas Shaw,
writhed in agony for more than 30
0 1400
minutes as crews used winches and
 avoided.
Communication: When we originally
called 911, we stated our intent to
descend in the morning if the
condition of the team did not
HAPE/HACE, Wyoming, Grand Teton 2004 National Park, Grand Grand
Wyoming, Teton Teton National Park,
deteriorate any farther. We were
Grand Teton
advised to stay where we were and
On August 8 about 0400, Ranger
that a team would be mobilized to
McPherson contacted Rangers Holm,
ascend. One other team member and
Larson, and Montopoli at the Lower
myself were borderline hypothermic
Saddle hut. On August 7, Dan and
early in the evening but our condition
Selanta McPherson (25 and 22) had
improved in the snow cave. Although
successfully ascended the Grand
0 1402 we communicated to the people at the
Teton by the Complete Exum Route
Lightning, Poor Position—Late Start, Wyoming,
2004 rescue
Grand
Wyoming, base
Teton that we
National
Grand were
Park,
Teton all Teton
Grand
National Park,
ambulatory
Grand Tetonbut cold, we should have
been
On July more
26 assertive in holding
at 1535, lightning to our
struck
decision to descend on
and fatally injured Erica Summers our own in the
morning. In our attempt to
(27) while climbing the Exum Ridge of be
agreeable
the Grand with Teton. theThisSARsingle
effortlightning
we
needlessly endangered
strike traveled down the Exum Ridge several of the
rescuers.
injuring seven climbers, five seriously.
0 1403 A final note911 from
The initial cellSteve
phone Rollins:
call at 1546
Rappel Failure/Error—No Back-Up Belay 2004
and NoAvalanche
Knots on Ends
Wyoming, Devils
dangerof Tower
Ropes, Wyoming,
National
rose quickly Devils Tower Natio
during
Monument
this storm, threatening to prevent
On May 17,
rescuers from Jacqueline
being able Weimer
to reach (27)
the
sustained fatal injuries after
stranded party safely. Had conditions falling
approximately
been any worse, 100 meters
it is possiblewhilerescue
rappelling adjacent to the
efforts would have been postponed, popular El
Cracko Diablo climbing route
resulting in the party being stranded on
Devils
for Tower.
an even longer period of time.
0 1404
Weimer and
Climbers her climbing
should be awarepartnerthat had
Stranded, Weather, Inadequate Equipment—No
2004 Stove, Oregon, Mount
just completed Hood,(5.9)
the Soler Reid Glacier Headwall
rescuer safety always takes and
rejoined three
precedence andfriends in therescues
therefore Meadows, are
a large
not ledge
always system(Sources:
possible. high on the Steve
Rollins-Portland Mountain Rescue;
David Byrne-35; Jim Brewer-48; Bob
Pelletie-38; Jared Cogswell-31; Keith
Campbell-44; and a story from The
1 1405 Oregonian.)
Stranded—Off Route, Weather, Inadequate
2004Clothing and Equipment,
California, Tuolumne Exceeding
Meadows, Abilities, California, Tuol
Fairview Dome
On July 27, Randy Popkin (46) and
his son, Cameron (16), climbed the
Regular Route on Fairview Dome.
They got to the base at 7:00 a.m. to
allow plenty of time for the route, but a
party of four was already there.
0 1406
Waiting for the larger party to clear
AMS, Alaska Denali National Park, Mount
2005McKinley,
Alaska,West Buttress
Denali National Park, Mount
McKinley, West Buttress
On the evening of June 6, the
Russian Denali Expedition requested
the assistance of the NPS volunteer
doctor at the 17,200-foot camp on the
West Buttress of Mount McKinley
because one member of the team
0 1410
was ill. Upon investigation, Dr.
 Avalanche or Rockfall, Alberta, Banff National
2005 Park, Mount
Alberta, Deltaform,
Banff NationalSupercouloir
Park, Mount
Deltaform, Supercouloir
On June 5, two climbers in their early
20’s were reported overdue
attempting the Supercouloir route (IV
5.8) on the North face of Mount
Deltaform, near Lake Louise, two
days after leaving to bivy for the climb
0 1411
on June 3. The experienced climbers
Avalanche, Alberta, Banff National Park,
2005
Mount Rundle,
Alberta,Professor Falls Park, Mount
Banff National
Rundle, Professor Falls
On March 23, a party of two was
climbing Professor Falls (280 m. III
WI4) and had just finished the
technical lower pitches. They were
walking roped together towards the
last pitch. The second on the rope, T.,
0 1412
heard a sound and looked up to see a
Avalanche, Alberta, Banff National Park,
2005
Mount Wilson, Midnight
On February 12 Rambler
John Miner, Jim
Andrues, and Russ Howard were
climbing Midnight Rambler (240 m. III,
WI3) on Mount Wilson in Banff
National Park. Two of the three were
highly experienced mountaineers and
members of the Tacoma Mountain
Rescue Unit (WA).
0 1413
They were hit by a size 2.5 avalanche
Avalanche, Weather, British Columbia,2005
Yoho National
On Park,
March
initiating Super
6,
from Bock
three icezone
a start climbers were
high on the
approaching
mountain. This likely occurred inathe
the bottom pitch of
route called Super
early afternoon. Bock
They (180
were m. III to
carried
WI5) on Mount Stephen in Yoho
National Park. Two of the climbers
were in a protected location near the
base of pitch one; the third climber
was approximately ten metres behind
0 1414
them. A wet avalanche poured down
Cornice Collapse, Avalanche, British Columbia,
2005 Yoho
BritishNational Park,Yoho
Columbia, MountNational
Vice President
Park,
Mount Vice President
On April 9, an American man who
was backcountry skiing in Yoho
National Park died when he was
swept away by an avalanche. Park
wardens discovered the man’s body
at about 1800, buried under about 60
0 1415
centimetres of snow. He had been
Deep-Vein Thrombosis—Inadequate Medicaiton
2005 Supply,
On JuneAlaska, Denali
6, Anatoli National Park,
Lakteonov of theMount McKinley,
same Russian team as above was
brought by members of his expedition
to the NPS Basecamp. Patient was
observed to be visibly limping and in
some distress. Examination of the
patient’s right leg revealed minimum
one-inch pitting edema distal to the
0 1416
knee, extending to mid-shaft tibia.
 Fall into Crevasse, Unroped, British Columbia,
2005 Glacier
BritishNational Park,Glacier
Columbia, DevilleNational
Glacier
Park, Deville Glacier
On May 6, B.E. (48) fell 60 feet to his
death in a crevasse in the Selkirk
Mountains while ski touring on the
Deville Glacier in Glacier National
Park. B.E. and four male friends from
Canmore were traversing from Battle
0 1417
Abbey to Rogers Pass when the
Fall into Crevasse—Unroped, Alberta, Jasper
2005 Naitonal Park,
Alberta, MountNational
Jasper Athabasca, North
Park, Glacier
Mount
Athabasca, North Glacier
On April 9, a party of three were
ascending the North Glacier on Mount
Athabasca on skis, on a route a little
higher than where the “standard”
route normally goes. Their intent was
to do some skiing as they had done a
0 1418
week prior. At 1310, the party was
Fall on Ice, Alberta, Banff National Park,
2005
CascadeAlberta-,
Mountain, Cascade
Banff Waterfall
National Park,
Cascade Mountain, Cascade
Waterfall
On January 3, a party of two was
climbing on Cascade Waterfall (300
m. Ill WI3). Sometime between 1500
and 1600, the victim was leading final
moves of the last pitch when he fell,
0 1419
injuring his ankles. His partner
Fall on Ice, Banff National Park, Mount2005
Bourgeau, Bourgeau
Alberta, Right-Hand
Banff National Park, Mount
Bourgeau, Bourgeau Right-Hand
On January 4, a party of two was
climbing Bourgeau Right-Hand (310
m. IV WI 4R). This climb is often very
thin on the first two pitches and
difficult to protect. The leader was
climbing second pitch and took a lead
0 1420
fall six metres above his third screw
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Alberta,
2005JasperAlberta,
NationalJasper
Park, Mount Andromeda,
National Practice Gullies
Park, Mount
Andromeda, Practice Gullies
On June 4, two climbers left the
climber’s parking lot at 0500 enroute
to the Practice Gullies (III) on Mount
Andromeda. These inappropriately
named gullies are similar in difficulty
(45 to 5 5 degrees) and are located
0 1421
on the extreme left hand part of the
Fall on Ice, Unroped, British Columbia,2005
Haffner Creek
BritishCanyon
Columbia, Haffner Creek
Canyon
February 15, I.T. was solo climbing a
mixed route in Haffner Creek Canyon
to set up a top rope for friends. He
was approximately twenty feet up
when he slipped and fell to the ground
landing at an awkward angle on his
0 1422
left ankle. Two ACMG guides that
 Fall on Ice—Ice Tools Pulled Out, Unropped,
2005 Quebec, Mont du 22,
On February GrosJ.S.
Bras(39) and M.L.
(38) had finished the Gros Bras route
at Weir and were packing up their
gear when they decided to have a
look at the rock climbs further along
the cliff. On the way back J.S. decided
to attempt an unroped mixed traverse
across the ice shrouded base of the
0 1423
cliff. After one or two moves, he
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
2005 Alberta, PeterPeter
Alberta, Lougheed Provincial
Lougheed Park, Mount Brock
Provincial
Park, Mount Brock
On April 24, a helicopter spotted the
body of C.N. (31) in rough terrain at
8,400 feet in a gully on Mount Brock
in the spectacular Opal Range in
Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. C.N.
was a climbing enthusiast who made
0 1424
a number of climbs in the U.S.,
Fall on Rock, Failure to Test Holds, Alberta,
2005 Kananaskis
Alberta,Country, MountCountry,
Kananaskis John Laurie (Mount Yamnuska)
Mount
John Laurie (Mount Yamnuska)
A climber fell and broke his leg on
June 5. The man was climbing a route
called The Bowl (145 m. 5.10a) when
he grabbed onto a chalk-covered
handhold that he had used before in a
previous climb near the top of the
0 1425
route. The large rock came loose and
Fall on Rock, Failure to Test Holds, Alberta,
2005 Kananaskis
Alberta,Country, MountCountry,
Kananaskis John Laurie (Mount Yamnuska)
Mount
John Laurie (Mount Yamnuska)
On September 8, a climber who had
been bolting stations on an unnamed
route on Mount Yamnuska fell
approximately 40 feet, fracturing his
ankle. He fell on the fourth pitch while
rope-soloing onto a cam. The fall was
0 1426
initiated by a hold breaking. Of
Fall on Rock, Handhold Came Off—Failure2005 to Test Holds, Waterdog,
Alberta, Unroped, Alberta, Waterdog,
North D'art Area,North D'art Area,
Obliteration
On November 13, B.P. and T.M. were
approaching the ice climb Obliteration
(30 metre WI4) in the North Drywood
area between Waterton National Park
and Pincher Creek. The approach
involves a 45-minute hike from the
0 1427
vehicles, followed by a moderate
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Inexperience,
2005 Alberta,
Alberta,Banff National
Banff Park,Park,
National Grotto Canyon, Paintings Wa
Grotto
Canyon, Paintings Wall
On July 18, a climber who fell roughly
30 feet off a wall near the pictographs
at Grotto Canyon was rescued. J.G.
(51) was leading a 5.9 climb at Grotto
Canyon when he slipped and fell 30
feet. He hit a large boulder, bounced
0 1428
off it, then hit the ground, sustaining
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Alberta,
2005 Banff National
Alberta, Park,
Banff Tunnel Mountain,
National Park, TunnelGooseberry
Mountain, Gooseberry
On August 26, a lead climber in a
party took a 30 to 40 foot lead fall on
third pitch of Gooseberry (II, 5.6) on
Tunnel Mountain. He sustained a
back injury but was still mobile. The
party rappelled to the ground and
0 1429
started walking out. On the way out
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Exceeding
2005 Abilities, California,
California, TuolumneTuolemne
Meadows, Meadows, Lembert Dome
Lembert Dome, Northwest Books
On July 15, Amit Singh (27) fell while
climbing the third pitch (rated 5.9) of
Northwest Books on Lembert Dome.
He had placed a cam just above the
belay and had started to climb the
difficult section. Ten feet up, he
0 1430
placed a #5 nut and continued to
Fall on Rock, Nut/Chock Pulled Out, Alberta,
2005 Banff National
Alberta, Park,
Banff Tunnel Park,
National Mountain, The Shoe
Tunnel
Mountain, The Shoe
On July 6, R B. was part of an
“Advanced Mountain Operations
Course” being run by the Canadian
Military out of CPC Trenton. The
group consisted of 14 students and
seven instructors. R. B. was part of a
0 1431
group that was learning to lead climb.
Fall on Rock, Unroped, Climbing Alone, 2005
Quebec,On
Mont Saint Hilaire
September 6, a hiker made a
macabre discovery at the foot of the
northern slopes of Mont Saint Hilaire.
A body rested among the rocks at the
foot of a 250 metre high cliff near the
“Cave of the Fairies.” A camera was
located by the search and rescue
team near Y.L.’s body.
0 1432
It is surmised that Y.L. was alone and
Fall on Rock—Attacked by Bees Arizona, 2005
Camelback Mountain,
Editor's
decided note: Hart
The
to climb Route
following
the report
cliff in an attempt
describes
to take photographs. It appears thatin
an incident that resulted
the
Y.L.death of Keith Abbe,
(30) ascended in an 24,
areaafter a
which
bee attack and fall at Camelback
Mountain.

Dear Climbing Community: My name

is Jeff, and I am the climber who
0 1434
survived this incident. I want to try to
Fall on Rock—Inadequate Belay (Including
2005No Knot
FALLin up
clear thewhat
ON End of the Climbing
ROCK—INADEQUATE
happened to letRope),
all theNo Hard Hat
BELAY (INCLUDING NO KNOT IN
THE END OF THE CLIMBING
ROPE), NO HARD HAT

California, Tahquitz Rock, Whodunit

On May 23, my partner and I had just

0 1435
arrived at the base of Whodunit (5.9)
about 9:00 a.m. A female belayer (c.
25) was at the base of the route. She
 Fall on Rock—Inadequate Belay, Rope 2005Too Short—Lowering, Distraction,
California, Yosemite California,
Valley, Yosemite Valley, Y
Yin Yang
On April 26, an experienced climber
(44) had led Yin Yang (5.10d) and set
up a top-rope for his partner (26) to
follow. The leader had used long
cordelettes to extend the anchor
because the climb was about 120 feet
and their rope was only 200 feet. With
0 1436
the rope doubled, the leader was
Fall on Rock—Inadequate Protection (Climber
2005 and Belayer), Yosemite
California, No Hard Hat, California,
Valley, Church Yosemite Valley, C
Bowl, Bishops Terrace
After work on July 28, Ric Sedlak (20)
and I, Amy Painter (21), headed for
the Church Bowl to climb Bishops
Terrace (one pitch, 5.8). It was Ric’s
lead. He could follow 5.11, but he had
just started leading traditional routes
0 1437
this summer and was learning
Fall on Rock—Rappel Anchor Failure, California,
2005 High Sierra,
California, Palisades
High Sierra,Region
Palisades
Region
On May 29, Dan Kipper (54) and
Warren Buettner (65) started from
Glacier Camp and ascended the
Palisade Glacier to the V-Notch. Their
objective was to climb the V-notch,
ascend Polemonium Peak, traverse
0 1438
over to Sill, and then descend back to
Fall on Snow, Rescue Hampered by Weather,
2005 Alaska,
The Denali National
following Park,
account is Mount
that of McKinley,
a West Buttr
difficult and intense Denali Search
and Rescue operation conducted on
the upper slopes of Mount McKinley.
The individuals who participated in the
rescue operation were Renny
Jackson, Chris Harder, Steve Rickert,
Jack McConnell, and David Bywater.
0 1439
It is also imperative to mention two
Fall on Snow—Inadequate Equipment, Off 2005Route,California,
Party Separated, California,
High Sierra, High
Mount Sierra, Mount Ritter,
Ritter,
Southeast Glacier
On August 9 the body of Otto
Loenneker was found by Mono
County Mountain Search and Rescue
at the base of the Southeast Glacier
on Mount Ritter.
Otto and his partner, John Dickinson,
0 1440
arrived at the base of Mount Ritter
Falling Rock, Alberta, Jasper National Park,
2005 MountlateAthabasca,
Alberta, North
Jasper
morning Face 8.Park,
National
of August TheirMount
plan
Athabasca, North Face
that day was to scout a route to the
On August 15 at 0530, four Calgary-
based climbers started their ascent up
the trail to Mount Athabasca’s north
face. The overnight low at 2,3 50
metres, recorded at a nearby weather
station, was 9.5 C. At 1030, the party
0 1443
of four were at the bergschrund below
 Falling Rock, Alberta, Kananaskis County,
2005MountAlberta,
John Laurie (Mount Yamnuska)
Kananaskis Country, Mount
John Laurie (Mount Yamnuska)
At the same time as they were
searching for C.N. on Mount Brock on
April 23, the conservation officers
were called to a rescue on Mount
Yamnuska about 1300. A climber was
fixing a project, (climbing route) he
0 1444
was working on and a block fell and
Falling Rock, British Columbia, Yoho National
2005 Park, Lake
British O'Hara, Abbott
Columbia, Yoho Pass
National Park,
Lake O'Hara, Abbott Pass
Two climbers were ascending the
steep approach gullies to Abbott Pass
from Lake O’Hara in Yoho National
Park on July 25. They were packing
heavy packs, planning a few days
climbing from the hut at the pass. At
0 1445
1730, one of them noticed a football
Falling Snow Block, Alaska, Denali National
2005 Park, Mount Denali
Alaska, BarrilleNational Park, Mount
Barrille
A party of four, Dr. Jim Sprott, Niles
Woods, Martina Volfova and
Kneeland Taylor, flew into the Ruth
Glacier on April 19 with Talkeetna Air
Taxi. On the 20th the group climbed
Mount Dickey and on the 22nd they
0 1447
attempted a different route on Mount
Falling Snow, Alaska, Denali National Park,
2005 PeakAlaska,
11,300 Denali National Park, Peak
11,300
Around 0500 on May 3,
Mountaineering Ranger Karen Hilton
and her two volunteers, Carl Oswald
and Matthew Smith, left their camp to
patrol the Southwest Ridge of Peak
11,300, located in the West Fork of
0 1448
the Ruth Glacier.
Illness, Failure to Disclose Previous Medical
2005 History, Inexperience,
Alaska, Alaska, Park,
Denali National DenaliMount
National Park, Mount M
McKinley, West Buttress
On June 12, Tina James, a client with
Mountain Trip led by Todd Ruthledge,
was out on a summit bid when she
began experiencing medical
problems. The group had left high
camp around 0930 and had reached
0 1449
Denali Pass around noon. James had
Overdue—Inadequate Communications,2005 Alaska, Denali
On JuneNational Park, Joe
3, Ranger Mount McKinley, Cassin Ridge
Reichert
requested a search for overdue
climbers Sue Nott and Karen McNeill
of the “Best Chilled” expedition
climbing the Cassin Ridge. According
to Reichert, the party reported they
had five days of food and seven days
of fuel when they departed the
0 1450
14,200-foot camp on May 25. By June
 From start to finish, this expedition
showed a total disregard for their own
safety and others. Their unwillingness
to put aside their personal goals in
light of their clear inability to deal
Poor Expedition Behavior—Party Separated 2005 (Abandoned, Injured and Ill Teammates), Inadequate Mainten
appropriately under adverse
conditions indicates that the only way
to impress upon them the seriousness
of their negligence was to issue them
citations for Disorderly Conduct and
Tampering. Hopefully, this will send a
clear message that such behavior by
0 1451 anyone will not be tolerated.
Rappel Error, No Backup, No Hard Hat,2005 Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Barrier
Alberta, Kananaskis Mountain,
Country, BarrierBarrier Bluffs
Mountain, Barrier Bluffs
On April 30, a climber fell 15 to 20
metres to the ground while rappelling
off a 5.8 sport climb, at Barrier Bluffs,
“One Way to Wangland.” The 30-
year-old climber had finished leading
the pitch and had rigged the rope to
0 1452
rappel and clean the route. The
Rappel Failure—Accidental Manual Disengagement
2005 of Ascent
Arizona, Device,Saguaro
Phoenix, Inadequate Equipment, Climbing A
On April 29, I (Jeff Gertsch, 26) was
out in the middle of the desert at my
climbing spot alone, ascending a fixed
rope for the purpose of bolting a sport
climbing route using a single Wild
Country Ropeman. After ascent to the
drill site at 20+ feet, I needed to drop
0 1453
down a foot to hammer the bolt,
Rappel Failure—Trying to Pass Knot, Climbing
2005 Alone,
Arizona,Arizona, Phoenix,
Phoenix, Waterfall
Waterfall Area, White Tank Reg
Area,
White Tank Regional Park
On October 4, Maricopa County
Sheriff’s Office Mountain Rescue was
notified via SAR Coordinator, Deputy
Tony Navarra, that a climber had
apparently been rappelling and had
fallen to his death. Mountain Rescue
0 1454
Units were notified by David Bremson,
Slip on Rock or Ice, Unroped, British Columbia,
2005 Yoho
BritishNaitonal Park,Yoho
Columbia, Mount Dennis,Park,
National Carlsberg Column
Mount Dennis, Carlsberg Column
On November 19, two climbers were
approaching the base of Carlsberg
Column (60 m. II WI5), a waterfall ice
climb on Mount Dennis in Yoho
National Park. B.R. (32) had started
traversing on an exposed ledge that
0 1455
went over to the base of the ice climb.
Stranded, Exceeding Abilities, Failure to2005
Follow Route,
On July Alberta, Banff National
31, a group Park, Mount Temple, Aem
of four climbers
set off to climb the Aemmer Couloir
variation of the East Ridge of Mount
Temple in Banff National Park near
Lake Louise. The group biwied below
the couloir and took the whole second
day to climb to the top of the couloir.
After another night’s bivy, two of the
1 1456
climbers decided they could not
 Stranded, Exceeding Ability, Alberta, Banff
2005 Naitonal Park,29,
On July Mount Rundle
a solo climber was
ascending the normal scramble/hiking
route on Mount Rundle. He scrambled
up a gully above trail into the steep
technical rock slabs and could no
longer go up or down. He eventually
managed to attract attention by
screaming and someone phoned in to
1 1457
report his location. A warden rescuer
Stranded, Party Separated, Weather, British
2005Columbia,
BritishYoho NationalYoho
Columbia, Park,National
Lake O'Hara,
Park,Mount Biddle
Lake O'Hara, Mount Biddle
On August 8, a party of six climbers
headed to the West Ridge of Mount
Biddle, a 5.4 alpine rock route on the
Lake O’Hara area of Yoho National
Park. Two of the party turned around
low on the route when they noticed an
0 1458
approaching storm. The other four
Avalanche, Washington, Mount Rainier,2005IngrahamWashington,
Glacier Mount Rainier, Ingraham
Glacier
On October 24, climbers Aaron
Koester and Matt Little contemplated
a summit ascent from their high camp
at Cadaver Gap, but due to a late
start the pair instead decided to train
and explore and the crevasses on the
0 1460
Ingraham Glacier. Near 11,700 feet,
Avalanche, Washington, Mount Rainier,2005Liberty Ridge
Washington, Mount Rainier, Liberty
Ridge
Luke Casady and Ansel Vizcaya (both
29) departed White River
Campground on Friday June 11 for a
planned ascent of Liberty Ridge. The
exact details of the subsequent 48
hours may never be known, but the
0 1461
facts uncovered during the
Fall on Glacier Ice, Inadequate Protection,
2005Protection Pulled Out,Mount
Washington, Washington,
Rainier,Mount
KautzRainier, Kautz Glac
Glacier Route
On August 8 at 9:15 a.m., while
leading the second icy pitch of the
Kautz Glacier Route, Bryan Fry (28)
fell on the 45-degree icy pitch. What
protection had been placed between
him and his partner, John Dufay (25),
0 1463
pulled out as Fry fell. Fry’s fall jerked
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Inadequate
2005 Belay, Washington,
Washington, Mount
Mount Baker,North
Baker, North Ridge
Ridge
Elain Fu (33) and I (Stephen Ramsey,
33) were simul-climbing up the ice cliff
on the North Ridge of Mount Baker. I
was in the lead. At 6:30 a.m., I
reached a slightly overhanging lip of
ice, about five feet in height. The
0 1464
elevation was about 9,700 feet, and
 Fall on Ice—Ice Foothold Came Off, Ice2005
Tools Came Out, Weather,
On January Colorado,
10, Steven Rocky
Crane (57)Mountain National P
was leading Main Falls Center I WI 4
(one pitch, 80 feet) when he fell about
30 feet. He had placed three ice
screws prior to the fall. As he moved
further on the upper column, he was
sprayed by water coming off the right
side of the falls. According to local
0 1466
sources, it had been a wetter than
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
2005 No Hard Hat, Exceeding
Colorado, EldoradoAbilities,
CanyonColorado,
State Eldorado Canyo
Park, Redgarden Wall
On May 23, a male (22) was free-
soloing the route Smoke and Mirrors,
rated 5.10a, high on Redgarden Wall
in Eldorado Canyon when several
climbers witnessed his fall. He hit a
ledge 40 feet down then fell another
0 1468
60 feet before being wedged behind a
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
2005 Wyoming,
Wyoming,GrandGrand
TetonTeton
National Park, The
National Grand Traverse
Park,
The Grand Traverse
On July 19 about 1030,1 received a
call from Fred of Butte, Montana. Fred
voiced concern for a friend and
climbing partner of his, Dwight Bishop
(49), whom he believed was overdue
from a climb of the Grand Traverse.
0 1469
Fred was concerned because he
Fall on Rock, Exposure, Darkness, Nevada,
2005Red Rocks
On
thoughtCanyon,
October Epinephrine
that 30,
his climbers
friend hadJoel
left on July
Geerling (24) and Chris
16 and that he thought that Pannucci
Bishop(25)
left the Black Velvet Canyon
had intended to accomplish the parking
lot at 0530, arriving at the base of 18-
pitch Epinephrine (5.9) by 0630. The
pair had previously climbed Crimson
Chrysalis (9-pitch, 5.8+) and Dream of
Wild Turkeys (7-pitch, 5.10-) at Red
0 1470
Rocks in March of 2003. They
Fall on Rock, Failure to Backup Ascenders,
2005California, Yosemite
California, Valley,Valley,
Yosemite El Capitan,
El Tangerine Trip
Capitan, Tangerine Trip
On September 8, Jeff Cabral (33) fell
to his death while following the fifth
pitch of Tangerine Trip (Grade VI, 5.8
A2/C3) on the Southeast Face of El
Capitan. At least four other people
have died while cleaning aid pitches
0 1471
on El Cap, and Jeff’s death echoed
Fall on Rock, Handhold Broke Off, Inadequate
2005 Protection,
Missouri, Missouri,
Henley
that of Carol Moyer Henley
Wall Wall
on this same
Dave Ogrodowczyk (age unknown)
was climbing at the Henley Wall in
Henley, Missouri with two of his
students and another friend. Both
Dave and his belayer were wearing
helmets during the incident. The
belayer was secured to a tree with
0 1472
and adequate anchor. There was no
 horizontal crack and climbed upward
over a bulge. About four feet above
his last piece and with clear air below
the bulge, Mark found nowhere to go
and, after warning his belayer, he
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Oregon,
2005 Mount Washington,
Oregon, Mount West Face
Washington, West
dropped off.
Face
Mark remembers a jerk as the last
On Thursday, July 29, Thomas Siefert
piece pulled out, before falling an
(46) and Gary Gentz (50) were
estimated 25 feet to a ledge. He
making their first attempt at climbing
landed flat-footed on the ledge and
the West Face of Mount Washington
then fell over backward, striking his
in the Oregon Cascades. Oregon
head and hanging upside down. He
High, a 1991 climbing guide for the
0 1473 was wearing a helmet that may have
Oregon Cascades by Jeff Thomas,
Fall on Rock, Placed No Protection, California,
2005 Highprevented him
Highfrom
Sierra, Middle
California, losing
Palisade
Sierra, Middle
consciousness.
Palisade
Terry lowered
On August 22,his son toward
a group of eight the
Sierra
ground as Mark made
Club members were ascending the his way
through
Northeast theFace
complexity
of Middle of Palisade
the climb.
They were alone in this
(3rd class). The party was moving part of the
park.
adequately, but slowly. The partycell
They called 911 from their was
phone.
unroped. A All
Ranger
membersappeared of theand soon
party
0 1474 two
werefiremen
wearingcharged
helmets. with
Nearrescues
the topat of
Fall on Rock, Protection Failed, New York,
2005Shawangunks,
New York,
Smith. Boston
MarkShawangunks,
was given morphine. Boston The
On
fourNovember
carried Mark6, adown
climber the (53)
steepfell
about 30 feet from the
narrow trail to the Crooked Rivercrux of Boston
(5.4+
whereorother
5.5, firemen
PG). A cam wereplaced
riggingtwo
a
or
boat to a waiting ambulance.from
three feet below the point Mark
which he fell failed
was released from (broke).
the hospital Thewith
next
pro was at about 15 feet and
his x-rays and soft casts. He returned was too
lowwork
to to keep
five him
weeksoff later
the ground.
and is
0 1475
He had placed two
mountaineering again.pieces of
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Exceeding
2005 Abilities,
protectionOregon,
at tenSmith
to 15Rock feet State Park, Godzilla
(at “the
Analysis
triangle”).
Mark He and
suggests thatthe group spoke
climbers create a
about that being
redundant anchorthe belowlast good
a cruxplace
move. to
He is concerned about the soft nature
of the rock in this part of Smith which
does not protect well. He feels, in
retrospect, that this route was a bit
0 1476 beyond his current level.
Fall on Rock, Weather, Inadequate Protection—Rappel
2005 Anchor
California, Came
High Off, Inadequate
Sierra, Middle Equipment, Californ
Palisade
At 4:15 a.m. on August 14,
experienced climbers Alfred Fordiani
(43) and Dave Brummund (42) left
their Brainard Lake camp with a
choice of climbs depending on the
weather, which had been unsettled for
0 1477
the past several days. If excellent
Fall on Rock—Handhold Broke Off, Kentucky
2005 and Tennesee,
Kentucky BigTennesse,
and South ForkBig National
SouthRiver & Recreation
Fork National River ft Recreation Area
Shelly Buchanan (49) of Norris,
Tennesse, was bouldering on the
Twin Arches formation on the
afternoon of November 11th when a
handhold broke off from a rock
causing her to fall in a horizontal
0 1478
position six feet to the ground. The
 Fall on Rock—Handhold Came Off, Failure2005 to Follow Route,
Oregon, Oregon,
Mount Mount Washington,
Washington, West West Face
Face
JWS (40) and I (BC, 42) attempted
the West Face route on Mount
Washington on August 21. It is rated a
5.6 in Jeff Thomas’ guide Oregon
High.
We are average climbers, 5.6/5.7 trad
0 1479
and 5.9 sport. We have done several
Fall on Rock—Jumped Instead of Down-Climbing,
2005 California,Yosemite
California,
multi-pitch YosemiteNational
routes—alpineNational Park,
in Tuolumne Meado
andPark,
Tuolumne Meadows,
climbing areas. Matthes Crest
On August 2 5, Mark Sorenson (3 8)
and David Parrish (3 8) were climbing
Matthes Crest and were about at the
halfway point when this accident
happened. Parrish had led an easy
pitch for about 50 feet, placing no
0 1480
protection along the way, as it was
Fall on Rock—Not Anchored at Top of 2005
Cliff, Inexperience,
Utah, Big Utah, Big Cottonwood
Cottonwood Canyon,Canyon,
Storm Storm Mounta
Mountain Amphitheater
On October 10, Amberly Rogers (20)
fell at the Storm Mountain
Amphitheater while attempting to set
up a top-rope. She was on a buttress
just west of the climb Big in Japan
(12b). The area she was in is
1 1482
accessed by a short scramble from
Fall on Rock—Off Route, Darkness, Colorado,
2005 Eldorado
Colorado,Canyon, Anthill
Eldorado Direct Anthill
Canyon,
Direct
On October 21, Angus McInnes (39)
and his companion, a young Russian
man (17) who had emigrated with his
family to the U.S. four months earlier,
were climbing Anthill Direct (5.9) when
apparently they got off route.
0 1483
McInnes was experienced, but he had
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Protection, Inadequate
2005 Belay,
On Oregon,
not April Mount
3, Doug
climbed the Hood,
Adair
route (50)Castle
and Crags
previously. As
Debra Marsh (47) attempted
daylight faded with the crux stillto climb
a variation
ahead, on Castle
McInnes Crags,
started a steep
looking for a
buttress separating the south and
west sides of Mount Hood. They
proceeded from Illumination Saddle
up snow ramps which became
progressively steeper. Doug climbed
0 1484
up to the first obvious notch in the
Fall on Snow/Ice, Faulty Use of Crampons,
2005Inadequate Equipment, Inexperience,
New Hampshire, New Hampshire, Mount
Mount Washington,
Pipeline Gully
On March 9, Robert Douglas (39),
John Corse (38), and Colin O’Farrell
(23) became involved in a situation
requiring climbing techniques due to
the conditions they found when they
attempted to find a good backcountry
0 1485
ski descent route on the west side of
 Fall on Snow—Dislodged Rock, Failure2005 to Test Holds,
Oregon,PoorMount
Position, Climbing
Hood, SouthUnroped
Side and Alone, Oreg
While ascending the Hogsback on
Mount Hood’s South Side route on
September 30, Patrick Marcuson (63)
dislodged rotten rock, causing him
to slide about 200 feet, flying over the
bergschrund. Despite losing his ice
ax, he stopped sliding before reaching
0 1486
the fumarole. He dragged himself up
Fall on Snow—Faulty Use of Crampons, 2005
Oregon,Oregon,
Mount Jefferson
Mount Jefferson
On Sunday morning, April 25, Brent
McGregor (51) and Tom Herron (40)
began a climb of Mount Jefferson.
McGregor and his climbing partner
had started their climb at 3:00 a.m.
Sunday but did not reach the summit
until around 5:30 p.m., as heavy, wet
0 1487
spring snow challenged their every
Fall on Snow—Unable to Self-Arrest, Faulty
2005 Use FALL
of Crampons, Colorado, Indian TO
ON SNOW—UNABLE Peaks Wilderness
SELF-ARREST, FAULTY USE OF
CRAMPONS Colorado, Indian Peaks
Wilderness
On June 12, Mark Oveson (36) was
traversing the snowfields between
North Arapaho Peak and “Deshawa
Peak” (point 12,800’ on the USGS
0 1488
map) when he slipped. He tried to
Fall on Snow—Unable to Self-Arrest, Oregon,
2005 Mount AfterHood, South Side
successfully ascending South
Side on July 23, Zach Usadi-
Henrickson (20) slipped on a steep
section of snow roughly below the
“Mazama Chute” as he was
descending. He was unable to arrest
the fall and came to rest just above
the fumaroles (steam and sulfur
0 1489
vents) on the west side of the Hogs-
Fall on Snow—Unable to Self-Arrest, Wyoming,
2005 Grand TetonGrand
Wyoming, National Park,
Teton Grand Teton
National Park,
Grand Teton
I met ranger Chris Harder at
approximately 0830 hours at his
residence at Beaver Creek on the
morning of March 12. We had
planned to go on a backcountry ski
patrol up to the top of the peak 9,925
0 1490
located immediately west of the
Fall or Slip on Rock, Exceeding Abilities,
2005North Carolina, Pilot Mountain
On September 5, Paul State Park(PB)
Bridges
and Alex Rodriguez (AR) were
rappelling in Pilot Mountain State
Park, which is located approximately 2
5 miles north of Winston Salem. After
both had rappelled several times
during the morning, they decided to
do a little “climbing.” Leaving their
0 1491
rappelling equipment behind, they
 Fall or Slip on Rock, Protection Pulled Out,
2005Failure to Follow
North Instincts,
Carolina, TableNorth
Rock,Carolina,
Talkin' Table Rock, Talki
'Bout Mudflaps
During the morning of October 17,
Jeff Pock (36) fell while climbing
Talkin’ ’Bout Mudflaps (5.11) causing
his first piece of protection, a #3
stopper, to pull, resulting in a ground
fall. He suffered two broken heels, a
0 1492
broken left foot and a broken left wrist.
Falling Rock—Fall on Rock, New Hampshire,
2005 Cannon Cliff, Whitney-Gilman
New Hampshire, Cannon Cliff,
Whitney-Gilman
May 18 was a gorgeous day when
two former students of mine and I
headed up on the Whitney-Gilman
ridge about 10:00 a.m. after waiting
for one party of three to advance the
first two pitches. I led the first pitch
0 1493
and brought J.W. and P.G. up
Lightning North Carolina, Linville Gorge2005
Wilderness, The Amphitheater,
In August, Daddy
a party of two were
climbing the Daddy (5.6) a classic 5-
pitch route located in the
Amphitheater, Linville Gorge
Wilderness Area. The incident started
when the lead climber (LC) was 65
feet above the large traverse ledge
located on the third pitch of the route,
0 1494
when he suddenly found himself
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Faulty
2005 UseOnof Crampons
October 3, Washington, Mount
shortly after 4:30Rainier,
p.m., Muir Snowfie
Chris Beoffoli (34) began his descent
from Camp Muir. While descending
near 7,800 feet on the Muir Snowfield,
Beoffoli, according to a report from
him, “...fell back and because it was
steep, I started to pick up some
speed. I didn’t have my ice ax within
0 1495
reach and, even though I should have
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Faulty
2005 UseWashington,
of Crampons, Mount
Inadequate Protection, Washington, Moun
Rainier,
Emmons/Winthrop Glacier Route
On June 3, Doug Thiel (40) and his
two climbing partners summited
Mount Rainier via the Emmons
Glacier Route. On their descent, Thiel
started to experience a great deal of
knee pain. The pain became so
0 1496
intense that he preferred to glissade
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Washington,
2005 Mount Rainier
Washington, National
Mount Park,
Rainier Unicorn Peak
National
Park, Unicorn Peak
On the morning of July 24, a four-
person team from the Mazamas
Climbing Club set out to climb Unicorn
Peak in the Tatoosh Range. On the
descent from the summit at roughly
2:30 p.m., Joska Rettig (50) lost
0 1497
control while glissading a steep
 granted.
helmet brim. AccordingThat impactto theireventually
friends,
Yamamoto
caused his death. and Ryugo chose the
Nose partly because
Any serious injury on a remote route they could
descend
at high elevationfrom anycan pitchbe onlife-the route.
When the time came
threatening due to the difficulty of to decide,
Rappel Failure—Multiple Causes, Washington,
2005 Frenchman's
Washington,
however, Coulee
they Frenchman's
were already Coulee
access and evacuation. Thiswet and
accident
Around
they may 2:00have p.m. on March
realized how 7, Robert
exposed
highlights the difficulties of high
Peruchini
they would (41)
be toand hisweather
partner,and Ms.
altitude rescue onthetechnical terrain,how
Teri Martin on
dependent (52), climbed
finding every theanchor.
particularly when exacerbated by poor
traditional basalt pillar
Communications. Cell route
phones known
and of as
weather. Aviation is a key element
“Pumping
radios the
degrade the Pigeon” (5.8)
wilderness on
many successful upper-mountain
Sunshine
character Wall
of a at Frenchman’s
climb, but serious
in a
rescues of climbers with
Coulee,
desperate five miles east
situation those of Vantage.
values may
0 1498 injuries. When weather precludes
Peruchini
not seem ledimportant.
so the climb; “IMartin had never
Rappel/Lowering Failure—Fall on Rock, 2005 flying,
No HardColorado, the survival
Hat, Colorado, Boulder of
Boulder a critically
Canyon Canyon injured
brought
climber a radio or cell phone on El
On Juneis22, oftentwocompromised.
climbers were on a
Cap
The before, and I will never not bring
routefact behindthat Boulder
RichardsFalls was in able to
Boulder
them
care again,”
for his said Thompson
climbing partner of Never
for
Canyon. The leader, who had more
Never
almost Land. However, theseexposeddevices
than 2060 years hours of onrocka small
climbing
are only
platform an extension
thattopped
he chopped of the basic
in placed
ice during
experience, out and an
rule:
poor Tell someone where you’re going
anchor. He was then loweredofon
weather speaks highly him as
that
and
an when you’ll
alpinist, rescuer, be back.
and Even lacking
friend.
anchor by his belayer. While heThewas
0 1499 a
NPSradio, an
strongly emergency
recommends plan with
choosing
still 25 feet above the ground, the
Slip on Ice—Dislocated Shoulder, Washington,
2005 Mountfriends
climbing might
Rainier,
Washington, partners havecarefully,
Kautz
Mount made
Glacier
Rainier, theKautz
difference
Glacier for Yamamoto
considering not only the ability and Ryugo. to
If
On allJune
reach else
the30, fails, remember
Dallas
summit, Baker
but howthat(27) cries for
a partner
help—but
sustained
will perform not
a the
the details
dislocated
in of an
eventshoulder
of a while
message—can
descending be heard
emergency or stressful situation. the
the upper ice from
pitch the
of
Valley
Kautz
While many floor. (Note:
Glacier Some
11,800cell
nearsaddened
were byphones
feet. He
the
do
was not work
facing in
the the park,
glacier
outcome of this extended event after and
slope the
with NPS
his
does
ice much
so not
tools in routinely
the by
effort iceso monitor
whenmany FRS
hispeople,
footing it
0 1500 radios.)
gave way.
should be notedHe was thatable
thetorescue
use one wasax
Slip/Fall on Snow and Rock, Washington,
2005
Mount Don’t
Rainier, Liberty aRidge
also acount great on success rescue.in thatAll Richards
the
communication
returned safely and in the noworld
rescuers won’twere
guarantee a rescue
hurt. Without his climbing partner, in the time one
has
Richards would have been placedI in
left to survive. “The question
keep askingposition
the difficult myself,”ofThompson
soloing thesaid,
“is, what would we
route in order to reach safety. have done if there
was
(Source:no rescue team, if we
Mike Gauthier, SAR were on
Ranger,
0 1501 some remote wall
Mount Rainier National Park)... elsewhere?” To
answer the question, imagine yourself
Stranded by Weather—Inadequate Gear,2005Food, and Strategy, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan
on a wall only as “remote” as Half
Dome,
hidden by clouds, while the rescue
team is focused on El Cap. A safe
return depends on self-sufficiency.
(Sources: Lincoln Else and John Dill,
NPS Rangers, Yosemite National
1 1502 Park)
Stranded, Exceeding Abilities, Incompatible
2005 Partners—Poor
Washington, Communication,
Mount Rainier, Washington,
Liberty Mount Rainier
Ridge
Bruce Penn (43) and A1 Hancock (44)
departed White River to climb Liberty
Ridge on June 13. It took them three
days to reach the base. On the third
day, while looking at Liberty Ridge,
Penn voiced concern to Hancock
0 1503
about the steepness of the route and
 They had only one headlamp and
were dressed in shorts and t-shirts.
About 2245, they found themselves
on the Southwest Face in 5th class
terrain and unable to navigate the
Stranded, Exposure—Hypothermia, Inadequate
2005 Clothing/Equipment,
On September
descent. 4 atClimbing
0400, to
They attempted Alone,
Sudheer Weather, Exceeding
lead climb
Averineni
up (26)but
to the top from Fortno
found Collins began
protection
an attempt on
placements Longs Peak
available. Theywith two to
decided
otherwhere
stay companions starting
they were at the
and call for
Longs
help. APeak
nearbyTrailhead. They
hiker in the had lot
parking
intended to complete their ascent
heard their cries for help and saw
within one dayheadlamp.
their flashing and were not equipped
to
Rangers conducted a At
stay out overnight. 1030, the
technical rescue
0 1504
solo mountaineer separated
response, doing a 300-foot lower. from his
Stranded—Benighted (Late Start), Inadequate
2005 Clothing and Equipment, Exceeding Abilities, California, Y
(Source: From a report by George
Paiva, SAR Ranger)
(Editor's Note: A few of these happen
every year in various locations. One
or two are always included as
reminders of some obvious factors.
See September 19 and 26 below
0 1505 also.)
Stranded—Inexperience, California, Yosemite
2005 National Park,Yosemite
California, Tuolumne National
Meadows,Park,
Tenaya Peak
Tuolumne Meadows, Tenaya Peak
On September 26, Marvin and Mary
Kilgo (both 42) became stranded
about three or four pitches from the
top of Tenaya Peak. They requested
help. Another climbing party reported
this to rangers, who responded by
1 1506
rappelling down to them.
Weather, Stranded—Benighted, Inadequate
2005Clothing and Equipment,
California, Yosemite Exhaustion, California, Yosemite Na
National Park,
Tuolumne Meadows, Fairview Dome
On September 19, two Japanese
climbers, Kengo Tagai (31) and Akira
Uasa (39), began ascending Fairview
Dome at 0830. when they reached the
4th class area of the route (about 2-
300 feet from the top), they were
0 1509
exhausted and the rock was wet from
AMS and Fracture, Alaska, Mount McKinley,
2006 West Buttress
Alaska, Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
In June, lead guide Bill Allen of the
guiding concession Mountain Trip
brought client Joanne Devenish (42)
to the 14,200-foot medical camp
because she was turned around short
of the summit, about 19,700 feet. The
0 1511
guides subsequently brought her
Avalance, Poor Position, Weather, Decision
2006 Making, Alaska,
Alaska, Mount
Mount Huntington
Huntington
Trapper Creek climber Johnny
Soderstrom (26) was declared
missing and presumed dead in an
avalanche, which occurred on
Tuesday, February 15th. Soderstrom
was last seen alive by his climbing
partner, Joe Reichert, on Tuesday
0 1512
morning, as the pair approached the
 Avalanche, Inexperience, Alberta, Jasper
2006
NationalAlberta,
Park, Columbia Icefields, Park,
Jasper National Mount Athabasca
Columbia Icefields, Mount Athabasca
On June 9, B.M. and N.Z. climbed
Mount Athabasca via a variation of
the standard North Glacier Route.
They opted to descend the standard
“ramp” route. The party triggered a
class 2.5 avalanche. It swept them
0 1514
over some steep terrain features.
Cornice Failure, Avalanche—Disregarded2006Information
BritishRegarding
Columbia,Snowpack History, Weather, British Col
Mount Robson
Provincial Park, Mount Robson, North
Face
On July 28, a European mountain
guide and a very experienced climber
(38 and 49) left the Kinney Lake
campground to ascend the Dog
Buttress to a high bivy point for
0 1515
climbing the North Face of Mount
Dehydration—Frostbite, Alaska, Mount2006
McKinley, West Rib
DEHYDRATION–FROSTBITE

Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Rib

At 1600 on May 27, both members of

a Spanish expedition “Dos Perdigones
en la Cassin” began their ascent of
the Upper West Rib. As the team
0 1516
approached the summit around 0500
Exposure, Weather, Yukon, Kluane National
2006 Park,Yukon,
Mount Kluane
Logan, King Trench
National Park, Mount
Logan, King Trench
An eight-member team from North
Shore Rescue set out on May 7 to
climb Mount Logan in the Yukon,
Canada’s highest peak at 5,959
meters (19,541 feet), to celebrate the
40th anniversary of the rescue
0 1517
organization. All were experienced
Failure to Follow Route—Stranded, Alberta,
2006 Banff National
Alberta, Park,National
Banff Mount Edith,
Park,South
MountRidge
Edith, South Ridge
On May 14, two male climbers (38
and 26) got lost while climbing the
South Ridge of Mount Edith (2,554
meters) just west of Banff. They did
not have very good information on the
location of the descent route, although
1 1518
they had read about the route itself in
Fall on Ice, Alberta, Jasper National Park,
2006Mount Alberta,
Kerkeslin, Kerkeslin
Jasper Falls Park, Mount
National
Kerkeslin, Kerkeslin Falls
On December 30, a party of two was
climbing Kerkeslin Falls (III, 3), a
moderate waterfall ice route in Jasper
National Park. The leader was
ascending the third and final pitch
when he took a short fall. The ice
0 1519
screw that he had placed below him
 Fall on Ice, Alberta, Kananaksis Country,
2006
2-Low 4-Zero
Alberta, Kananaskis Country, 2-Low
4-Zero
On December 3,1 took a leader fall.
The fall was a result of a left-hand tool
plant shearing off a substantial block
of very brittle ice while I was placing
the other tool. The left tool proceeded
to hit me in the mouth with some
0 1520
velocity, breaking a front incisor in half
Fall on Ice, British Columbia, Kootenay2006
National British
Park, Haffner CreekKootenay National
Columbia,
Park, Haffner Creek
At about 11:00 a.m. on December 3,
Banff Park wardens were called to a
rescue at Haffner Creek, in Kootenay
National Park, where a man in his 30s
had fallen from an ice climb,
according to public safety warden Lisa
0 1521
Paulson. The man was about 20 feet
Fall on Ice, British Columbia, Mount Dennis,
2006 Guinness
BritishGully
Columbia, Mount Dennis,
Guinness Gully
On December 2, a 35-year-old doctor
from the Seattle, WA, area was
descending from the route Guinness
Gully on Mount Dennis near Field,
B.C. when he tripped and fell 20 feet.
They’d finished the climb and they
0 1522
were descending the same way by
Fall on Rock, California, Yosemite Valley,
2006Lembert Dome Yosemite Valley, Lembert
California,
Dome
On July 5, John Hrizo (36) was injured
in a lead fall of about thirty feet on the
second pitch of Northwest Books on
Lembert Dome (5.6, 3 pitches).
According to Hrizo, he did all the
leading, followed by his partner, Stacy
0 1523
Waksmonski (29). After they climbed
Fall on Rock, Colorado, Black Canyon of2006
the Gunnison,
the firstEscape
Colorado, Artist
Black
pitch, Canyon
Hrizo of the
climbed to an
Gunnison, Escape Artist
A 37-year-old climber fell yesterday
afternoon (October 23) at the Black
Canyon of the Gunnison National
Park while ascending the Escape
Artist route on the North Rim wall.
Nearby climbers witnessed the fall
0 1524
and were able to reach the climber
Fall on Rock, Hand-hold Broke Off, Alberta,
2006 Banff National
Alberta, Park,National
Banff Lake Minnewanka
Park, LakeValley, Devils Gap,
Minnewanka Valley, Devils Gap,
Macadamia
On July 31, a 30-year-old climber
suffered serious injuries after falling
40 feet while leading Macadamia (5.9)
near Devil’s Gap in Banff National
Park Sunday afternoon. The accident
0 1525
left the climber with a serious lower
 FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY–ROPE 2006 RAN OUT,
Colorado, Colorado,
Maroon Bells,Boulder Canyon, Animation
Bell Cord
Couloir
On May 30, Kip Ryan White (49), an
experienced climber and indie singer-
songwriter, died in a fall in the saddle
between North and South Maroon
Peaks outside Aspen. White and his
son Jordan (19) fell 400 feet while
0 1526
descending the 50-degree, narrow,
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Equipment—Sandals,
2006 Off Route, No
Colorado, Hard Hat,
Boulder Colorado,
Canyon, NearBoulder Canyon, Near
Security Risk Crag
On April 2, a 31-year-old male was
attempting to set up a top-rope
system when he suffered a fatal fall
from a rock outcropping near Security
Risk Crag.
Analysis
0 1527
The victim was attempting to set up a
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Misuse
2006 of Equipment
top-rope (Grigri),
California, No Hard
forYosemite Hat,Half
Valley,
his climbing party,California, Yosemite Va
Dome
consisting of himself, his sister, and
On September
his girlfriend. 14,victim,
The a clearwearing
day, Bela
only
Christopher (Chris) Fehrer (35) was
solo climbing the slab route when he
fell 100 to 150 feet to his death.
Analysis
With dozens of Yosemite routes under
0 1528
his belt, including Mescalito, Wyoming
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Rock
2006
Broke Colorado,
Off, NoRanch,
Sheep Hard Hat,
El Colorado,
Garden Capitan Garden
of the Gods,
(seven of the Gods, Three
Three
Graces
times), and a host of other hard walls,
In mid-August, a young male local
climber died as a result of a fall from
this formation. In talking with the
search and rescue folks, I learned that
he was climbing up the south ridge on
the easternmost of the three slabs of
0 1529
rock that make up the Three Graces.
Fall on Rock, Miscommunication—Inadequate
2006 Belay,
Maine,Climbers Unknown to
Bald Mountain, EachCrag,
Shag Other, Maine, Bald Mo
Tightrope
Jed Piatt (29) of Dover, N.H., was in a
group of experienced climbers when
he fell from the route Tightrope (12d)
on Bald Mountain’s Shag Crag shortly
before 6:00 p.m. Steve Allarie, District
Game Warden for the Woodstock
0 1530
area, said Piatt fell 15 to 25 feet. He
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error—Protection2006
Pulled Out, British
British Columbia,
Columbia, PurcellMountains,
Purcell Mountains, Eastpost Spire
Eastpost Spire
On July 18, Dave Ireland (51) and
Peter Uzieblo were about two pitches
up Lions Way (5.6, six pitches) on
Eastpost Spire. One dropped his
digital camera, and so they were
rappelling to retrieve it. Uzieblo did a
0 1531
mix of down-climbing and rappelling in
 catalyst for climbing accidents on
Mount McKinley. There have been
more than 100 reported accidents
resulting in eight fatalities since 1960.
The snowy and sometimes icy trail
Too Fast,that
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error—Rappelling2006 traverses
Inexperience,
North upGreat
Carolina,North a 30- to 40-degree
Carolina,
Smokey Great Smokey Mountain
slope from the
Mountain National Park 17,200-foot high camp
to the 18,200-foot
Around 2:30 p.m. on Pass Julyis 25,
veryAdam
deceptive. Climbers are
Holenberg (23) was rappelling from a typically
hydrated
cliff aboveand at theirFalls
Rainbow strongest
in the when
ascending the pass
Cherokee Orchard area when at the beginning
he fell
of their long summit
approximately 30 feet, day. The opposite
sustaining
is true on
serious the descent
injuries. Holenberg at thehad endhiked
of
0 1532 the day, withinsome
three miles to theclimbers physically
falls, scrambled
Fall on Rock—Handhold Came Off, Climbing
2006 Alone,
and Left
California, NoYosemite
mentally Information
exhausted onasWhereabouts,
National wellPark, California, Yo
Tuolumne Peak
hypoxic and dehydrated.
On the
“At Julytime15, atthe4:30 p.m. I (Jeff
Humphrey Moore,
Brothers
27) was
would injured
have beenwhen I dislodged the
down-climbing, a
largewould
light rock whilehave climbing
been extremely a short Class
flat
3-4 chimney
and near darkononTuolumnetheir descent Peakfromin
Yosemite
Denali National
Pass, Park. I was
with sub-zero
climbing alone Because
temperatures. collectingtheir datafallforwas
a
0 1533
research
not project
witnessed, theonexact
exploringmanner rockfall.
and
Fall on Rock—Handhold Came Off, Failure
2006 to Test
OnHold, Arizona,
December 26Camelback
K.P. (female-46),Mountain
just how it happened can only be
L.R. (male-53), and T.N. (female -
speculated. One theory that would
50ish) went out to climb on
appear to be supported by the fall line
Camelback Mountain, a park area
in the snow is that the brothers were
located centrally in Phoenix. L.R. is a
attempting to down-climb the two-
very experienced lead climber and
meter steep section and one fell into
K.P. and T.N. had been lead climbing
the other, causing both to fall
for about a year. K.P. and T.N.
0 1534 approximately 1,000 feet.
completed leads on The Monk,
Fall on Rock—Inadequate Protection, Off Route, “It
2006 is unclear
Inexperience,
Colorado, why the
Colorado,
Boulder brothers
Canyon,Boulder chose
Canyon, Eagle Rock
Eagle
not
Rock to take their rope and why they
didn’t turn around and
On June 5, J.H. (20) and Z.T. (20) descend when
moving so slowly. It is my
were climbing the Great Dihedral, a 3- professional
judgment
pitch, 5.5 trad that these
route in men thewere more
infrequently
than likely exhausted
climbed Eagle Rock area of Boulder and had no
chance
Canyon.of self-arrest when they fell. In
my
J.H.24 beganyearsleading
of climbing on Denali,
the second my
pitch,
0 1535 most
whichperilous
the website momentdescribeswas inas: 1991
Fall on Rock—Rappel Error, No Hard Hat,
2006Colorado, Eldorado
Colorado,
descending
“Climb slabby Canyon
Eldorado
Denali
rock Pass State
Canyon
with Park,
after
little aRincon
State
pro as it
Park,
rescue
steepens… Rincon
with another
you will see mountaineering
a fixed pin
On January
ranger. We were26, aboth25-year-old
exhausted manand
was fatally injured when
hypoxic from managing a lowering he fell 20 toof
30stricken
a feet in Eldorado
climber atCanyon 19,800 State feet. Our
Park. The
descent Boulder
took almost County
two hours Sheriff’s
of
office said
roped and the
carefulaccident occurred at
down-climbing,
about 6:15
belaying eachp.m. as the
other as victim
we was
0 1536
rappelling. He
descended. wasonly
I can not imagine
wearing how a
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Clothing and 2006
Equipment, Inadequate Protection, Fatigue, Alaska, Mount McKin
difficult it must have been for Terry
and Jerry who had no way to protect
them from a slip or fall. This tragic
accident served as a harsh reminder
early in this climbing season that
Denali Pass is still a very dangerous
and an unforgiving section of the
0 1537 climb.”
 Edited Title: Lowering Error, Rope Ran2006
Through Colorado,
Belay Device, No Backup,
Boulder Canyon,Colorado, Boulder Canyon
Animation
On May 24, Eric Gurvin (19)
sustained injuries to his back, ankles,
and wrist when he fell 20 to 30 feet
when the person lowering him ran out
of rope and dropped him.
He had finished climbing a 5.9 route in
Boulder Canyon known as Animation
0 1538
and was being lowered to the ground
Fall on Snow—Loss of Control on Voluntary
2006 Glissade,
from aImproper
California, ropeClothing,
top Mount California,
Baldy4:00
about Mount Baldy
p.m. There
On April 16, veteran California
mountaineer and author Robert (R.J.)
Secor (48), glissaded out of control
1,200 vertical feet from near the
summit of Mount Baldy to level snow
near the Sierra Club’s Baldy Hut,
where rescue volunteers stabilized the
0 1540
seriously injured climber. A helicopter
Falling Object—Dead Tree (Dislodged 2006
by Other Climbers), New Hampshire,
New Hampshire, Whitehorse
Whitehorse Ledge Ledge
On an early Sunday morning in
August, I went out with two teenage
clients with a plan to climb Standard
Route to the Lunch Ledge via the
Toilet Bowl and Crystal Pocket. We
arrived at the Launching Pad around
8:30 a.m. There was a party already
0 1541
on the second pitch of Wavelength. I
Falling Rock, Alberta, Mount Yamnuska,2006
Belfry Alberta, Mount Yamnuska, Belfry
On May 23, a climber fell 15 meters
and broke both legs while attempting
Belfry on Mount Yamnuska. He was
with his climbing partner when a ledge
broke beneath him and he fell. N.B.
called for help and waited in the
meadow below for rescuers to arrive.
0 1542
George Field, public safety specialist
Falling Rock—Pinned Climber, British 2006
Columbia,British
PurcellColumbia,
Mountains,Purcell
Bugaboo Spire, Kain Route
Mountains,
Bugaboo Spire, Kain Route
On August 20, ten Golden Search and
Rescue members responded along
with Parks Canada and Canadian
Mountain Helicopters to rescue a
climber pinned under a rock on the
Kain Route of Bugaboo Spire. The
0 1544
man (38) and his teenage son were
Faulty Use of Crampons—Glissading, British
2006 Columbia, Mount Robson
British Columbia, Provincial
Mount Robson Park, Mount Resplend
Provincial Park, Mount Resplendent
On August 25, a party of four
summited Mount Resplendent. On the
descent, they chose to glissade a
steep snow slope, near the base of
the Mousetrap, below the Robson-
Resplendent Col. They left their
0 1545
crampons on. They indicated that they
 HACE and HAPE, Alaska, Mount McKinley,
2006 West Buttress
Alaska, Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
On June 8, the “AAI-1 -Taylor”
expedition arrived at base camp to
start their ascent of the West Buttress.
The team arrived at the 14,200-foot
camp on the evening of June 14,
which is very close to the
0 1546
recommended rate of ascent of 1,000
HAPE, Ascended Too Fast, Failure to Follow
2006 Instructions, Alaska,McKinley,
Alaska, Mount Mount McKinley,
Cassin Cassin Ridge
Ridge
On the evening of June 14 the
“Princes of the Puff of Smoke”
expedition arrived at base camp to
start their ascent of the Cassin Ridge.
When the team arrived at the 14,200-
foot camp on the evening of June 17,
0 1547
Bryan Feinstein (22) complained of
Inadequate Equipment and Clothing, Inexperience,
2006 Darkness,
New Exposure,
Hampshire, NewWashington,
Mount Hampshire, Mount Washing
Damnation Gully
On a Tuesday morning in January,
two ice climbers from Connecticut,
Damian McDonald and Susanna
Saarkangas (ages unknown), were
rescued from the Alpine Garden
above Damnation Gully on Mount
0 1548
Washington. They spent a night out in
Rappel Error—Anchor Failure, Arizona,2006
Sycamore Canyon,Sycamore
Arizona, Paradise Forks
Canyon, Paradise
Forks
On November 5, Shelley Windsor (31)
had been climbing on several routes
at Paradise Forks, Sycamore Canyon
with her climbing partner Mark
Brenner (26). During the climbs and
rappels, the anchors had been
0 1549
constructed on large, live pine trees
Rappel Error—Failure to Check Anchor,2006
Inadequate Protection,
North Carolina,North Carolina,
Shiprock, Shiprock,
Hindu Kush Hindu Kush
On July 3, Lewis M. Jones II (22), and
his partner, Joe Wilson (23) climbed
Hindu Kush (5.8), a popular Shiprock
route. Shiprock is a popular climbing
area located in the Grandfather
Mountain Corridor area of the Blue
Ridge Parkway. After completing the
0 1550
climb, the pair decided to rappel down
Rappel Error—Misuse of Grigri, Baffin2006
Island, Stewart
BaffinValley
Island, Stewart Valley
On April 24, Drew Wilson, Kyle
Dempster, Grover Shipman, Ross
Cowan, and I (Pete Dronkers) left
Ottawa for Baffin Island to make a first
ascent in Stewart Valley. I knew of
only four routes there, two of which
were professionally organized
0 1551
expeditions to Great Sail Peak.
 way. Always will I be prepared for a
High Sierra storm. This experience
has taught me that there should
always be two leaders—never one
leader and one follower. It has
Slip on Snow, Exceeding Abilities, Inadequate
2006 Clothing
British and Equipment,
Columbia,
encouraged me toMountNo how
learn Hard to
Robson Hat, Climbing Alone, B
lead
Provincial
climbs andPark,
start Base ofmy
getting Mount
act
Robson (Source: Deana Barone)
together.
On May
Royal 23, M.S.
Arches hasand
beenD.B. were round
climbed
camping at the Kinney Lake
trip in under an hour, but epics and
Campground.
rescues are commonM.S. toldonD.B.
this he was
“easy”
going to “do some scrambling
route. Why? Like many other on the
cliffs and gullies overlooking the
“moderate” trad climbs, the route is
0 1552
campground” and would beWhile
frequently underestimated. back the
Stranded, Weather, Darkness, Inadequate2006
Clothing, Inexperience, California, Yosemite, Royal Arches
technical climbing is relatively straight
forward, the climb as a whole is far
more challenging than its rating might
indicate. The route finding is difficult,
the level of commitment is high, and
for many teams the descent is a
larger challenge than the route itself.
0 1553 (Source: Lincoln Else, NPS Ranger)
Stranded, Weather, Inadequate Clothing,2006
Food, and Equipment,
California, California,
Yosemite Yosemite
Valley, HigherValley, Higher Cathe
Cathedral Rock
On May 15, Christopher Simmons
(26) and Emily Craft (28) became
benighted on the eleventh pitch of the
North East Buttress route on Higher
Cathedral Rock. They were rescued
by park personnel, who went to the
0 1554
summit and lowered fifty feet to the
Stranded—Leg Stuck in Crack, British Columbia,
2006 PurcellColumbia,
British Mountains,Purcell
Bugagoo Spire, Kain Route
Mountains,
Bugaboo Spire, Kain Route
On July 25, a male climber in his early
40s was climbing the Kain Route of
the Bugaboo Spire (5.6) when his leg
got stuck in a crack. Two Canadian
Mountain Holiday (CMH) guides in the
area initially climbed to the trapped
0 1555
man to make sure he was safe and
Stranded—Rappel Anchor Failure, Colorado,
2006 Capitol Peak Capitol Peak
Colorado,
In June, Kevin Smith (32) was
rappelling with a partner on Capitol
Peak, a 14,000 foot peak with a
Grade IV 5.9 North Face route and a
classic “knife- edged” hiking route
about 14 miles west of Aspen, when
his anchor gave way and left him
1 1556
stranded as a result of his climbing
Weather—Wind, Fall on Snow/Ice, New2006 Hampshire,
NewMount Wasington,
Hampshire, Odell
Mount Gully
Washington,
Odell Gully
On December 4, a climber was
traversing into the center of Odell
Gully with his two partners. They were
about a third of the way across the
neck of the gully when a gust blew the
lead climber off his feet and spun him,
0 1559
causing him to strike his face on the
 harness, it becomes very difficult, if
not impossible, to bump your backup
knot into your friction device. (See the
diagram of this published in the Petzl
catalog at Petzl_122_123.jpg, which
Avalanche—Did not Read Published Avalanche
2006 shows
Warning,
Oregon, this coaxial
Weather,
North arrangement.)
Poor
Sister Position, Failure to Follow Instin
It can be said that
We departed the Pole Creek tying the ends of
the rappel ropes together
Trailhead, 5,200 feet, at 1:00 would a.m.have
on
prevented rappelling off the
May 22 with the intent to climb North end.
However,
Sister via the thisEarly
climbing area Couloir
Morning has many in
vertical
a day. We arrived at 8,500 feetthe
cracks left and right of below
route (see photograph
the Northeast Face in four of the climb)
hours, five
and
milesexperienced climbersWe
from the trailhead. here
took have
a
0 1560 expressed great concern with having
long1½ hour break to evaluate the
Fall on Hard Snow—Slack in the Rope,2006
Washington, Mount end
Washington,
a knotted Rainier,
Mount
caughtEmmons
Rainier, Glacier
in a crack.EmmonsThe
Glacier
result of this could prevent one from
On July up
moving 12 orat down,
1545, four members
especially when of
a seven-person
doing roped soloMountaineers
climbing laps group, (an
Chris Clapton,
accepted form Rebekah
of climbing Koch,
that has
Theresa
been doneFielding,
with very andfewTom Labrie,
incidents
were the
over descending the Emmons
years), because minimal on one
rope would
gear when Koch caught for
be available a crampon
self- on
0 1561
some rope
rescue. Butslack and tripped
this case clearly at
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection—Anchoring
2006 Error, Inexperience,
Wyoming, Hoback Wyoming,
Junction, Rodeo Hoback Junction, Rodeo
illuminates the fact that choosing to
Wall
not use a backup knot in the end of a
On August 1, Sandy Edmiston (22)
rope should not be taken lightly.
fell 60 feet to her death from the
We recommend that the National
anchors of a bolted sport climb at the
Institute of Justice develop a national
popular Rodeo Wall, south of
level coroner’s form for recreational
Jackson. A novice climber, Sandy had
climbing fatalities. This is specifically
learned to clean bolted anchors earlier
0 1562 because recreational climbing
that afternoon. On two climbs prior to
to Haste,fatalities
Fall on Rock, Off-route—Late Start Led2006 Wyoming,
Wyoming, are so infrequent
Grand
Grand Teton
TetonNational that local
National Park,
Park,Lower Exum
coroners
Lower Exum need more guidance in
preserving
On September evidence
3, Leah at the scene.fell 3
Samberg
(Sources: Lead Investigator,
5 feet from the third pitch of the JohnLower
Gookin, Wyoming Deputy
Exum Ridge (5.7), shattering her Coroner,
SAR
upperCommander
left arm andwith the Fremont
breaking her hip.
County Sheriff’s Office
Mid-morning that day, Samberg, and the a
Curriculum Manager
first-year leader, and at the National
partner Alex
0 1563 Outdoor Leadership School
Hamlin had set out from the [NOLS];
Meadows
Fall on Rock, Oregon, Three Fingered Jack
2006 Oregon,
Tom Three
Hargis,
intending anFingered
to climb AMGA Jack Exum
certified
the complete guide
Kate Tinnesand (23),
for Exum Guide Service in other a graduate
student
locations, at aOregon
frequent State University
climbing partner
and member of Corvallis
of Jim’s who knew his habits Mountain
and who
RescueHoneycomb,
bolted Unit, died inso a fall
haswhile
knowledge
descending
of both the climbThreeand Fingered
the climberJack, on
July 23, after
intimately; Jeda Williamson,
climb with two other
Managing
Unit members.
Editor They since
of this journal had completed
1974, and
0 1564
the “technical”
frequent part ofofthe
investigator climb, had
accidents in a
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error—Rappelled2006
off End of Rope, Wyoming, Lander, Sinks Canyon
range of outdoor pursuits. John
Gookin visited the site six times post-
accident, Tom Hargis visited the site
three times, and Jed Williamson
visited the site once, with Gookin and
Hargis. Williamson had numerous
follow-up conversations and other
0 1565 exchanges with both.)
 Fall on Rock, Wyoming, Grand Tetons,2006CloudveilWyoming,
Dome Grand Tetons, Cloudveil
Dome
On July 1, about 0630, Heather Paul
(34) and Susie Schenk (38) departed
from Lupine Meadows with plans to
complete a traverse of Cloudveil
Dome from the South Fork of Garnet
Canyon. When they arrived at the
0 1566
Meadows of Garnet Canyon, because
Fall on Snow—Unable to Self-Arrest, Washington,
2006 Mount Rainier,
Washington, MountGibraltar Ledges
Rainier, Gibraltar
Ledges
On June 10 about 0600, Mike Beery
(29) and Ryan Tillman were climbing
the Gibraltar Ledges route on Mount
Rainier. Having just exited the ledges
and entered Gibraltar Chute, Beery,
who was a few steps in front of his
0 1567
partner, fell. Tillman did not notice the
Falling Ice, Washington, Mount Rainier,2006
Kautz Glacier
Washington, Mount Rainier, Kautz
Glacier
On July 5 Jim Curnutt (46), was hit in
the thigh by icefall while ascending
the Kautz Glacier Route, sustaining a
serious leg injury. Curnutt’s
teammates used a cell phone to notify
the NPS and lowered him to a safer
0 1568
location to care for his injuries.
Falling Rock, Protected Pulled, Inadequate
2006Belay,Oregon,
Off Route, Oregon,
Mount Mount Washington
Washington
Mei Ding Stamplis (24) and husband
Mathew Stamplis posted the following
on a popular climber’s Bulletin Board:
“We were on the North Ridge (July 2).
Hadn’t climbed it before and we got
off route up at the summit pinnacle.
Instead of directly climbing North
0 1570
Ridge, we traversed around it
Falling Rock, Washington, Mount Rainier,
2006FuhrerWashington,
Finger Mount Rainier, Fuhrer
Finger
At 0720 on June 29, while ascending
Fuhrer Finger, Brian Benedict was hit
by rockfall and sustained an open
fracture of his tibia and fibula.
Benedict was a client of a Rainier
Mountaineering Incorporated (RMI)
0 1571
guided party led by Kurt Wedburg.
Falling Rock—Dislodged by Climbers Above,
2006 Wyoming,
Wyoming, Mount
MountMoran,CMC
Moran, CMC
August 6, Jerry Painter (49), of Idaho
Falls, Idaho, and three other climbers
were ascending the CMC Route—a
popular climbing route on the east
face of Mount Moran, rated 5.5—
when Painter was struck on the head
by a sizable rock that was dislodged
0 1572
by climbers above. The rock broke
 Falling Rock—Dislodged by Party Above, 2006
Wyoming, Devil'sDevil's
Wyoming, Tower National Monument, Pseudo Weissne
Tower National
Monument, Pseudo Weissner
On May 29, Rita Sanders (46) of
Bellview, Nebraska, was injured by a
falling rock while climbing on Devils
Tower. Sanders was climbing the
Pseudo Weissner route with a friend
and a professional guide when the
0 1573
accident occurred. She was preparing
Frostbite, Off Route, Inadequate Food, Lost
2006Equipment, Washington,
Washington, MountMount Rainier
Rainier National Park, Ptarm
National
Park, Ptarmigan Ridge
On February 1, Chris Bamer (25) and
Robert Montague (28) set out to
ascend Ptarmigan Ridge. Both were
guides for Rainier Mountaineering
Incorporated (RMI). They expected to
complete the climb by Thursday, but
0 1574
Bamer asked his girlfriend to call the
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Improper
2006 Use of Crampons,
Washington, Washington,
Mount Rainier, Mount
Inter Rainier, Inter Glac
Glacier
On July 15 at 1348, the
communication center notified Camp
Schurman that a climber had broken
his leg near the bottom of the Inter
Glacier. Climbing rangers Chris Olson
and Stoney Richards left Camp
0 1575
Schurman at 1415 arriving on scene
Off Route, Falling Rock, Fall on Rock—Rappel
2006 Anchor Failure,North
Washington, Inadequate Protection,
Cascades Washington, North
National
Park, Sharkfin Tower
On July 10, a six-person team set out
to climb Sharkfin Tower in North
Cascades National Park. After a
glacier crossing, the group passed the
standard gully used to access the
objective, the southeast ridge of the
0 1576
peak, and ascended a similar, but
Rockfall, Unfortunate Position, Wyoming,
2006
Grand Wyoming,
Teton National Park,
Grand The Snaz
Teton National Park,
The Snaz
On July 24, after a successful climb,
our party of three was on the last
(sizeable but sloping) ledge and final
rappel of the route. I (Scott McGee,
39) was struck on the front half of my
helmet by a bread-loaf-sized rock
0 1577
traveling at high velocity. I lost
Trip/Fall on Snow—Twice, Unable to Self-arrest—Fall
2006 into Crevasse,
Washington, MountWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingrah
Rainier, Ingraham
Glacier
On July 7 at 0720, John Lucia (31), a
guide with Rainier Mountaineering
Incorporated (RMI), was leading a
rope team up the Ingraham Glacier
around 12,800 feet when one of the
clients, Peter Bridgewater (54) fell on
0 1578
the icy slope. Lucia successfully
 Weather, Exhaustion, Hypothermia, Inadequate
2006 Clothing, Washington,
Washington, Mount Mount Rainier,
Rainier, Muir Muir Snowfield
Snowfield
About mid-day on Saturday, May 2,
Tim Stark (57) and his nephew Greg
Stark (26) set out from the Paradise
(5,440 feet) to Camp Muir (10,100
feet) planning to climb the Ingraham
Direct route. When they set out,
0 1579
Camp Muir was visible from Paradise.
Equipment, Exceeding Abilities, Weather,
2007California, Inyo National
California, Forest, Mount
Inyo National Forest,Ritter
Mount Ritter
On September 7th, the park received
a mutual aid request from Mono
County SAR for assistance in
rescuing a stranded climbing party on
Mount Ritter, a few miles southeast of
the park. On Thursday, five men
1 1580
between the ages of 15 and 21
Fall into Crevasse—Unable to be Rescued
2007Quickly Because
Alaska, of Position,
Wrangell Alaska, Wrangell
Mountains, Mount Mountains, Mo
Bona
On May 17, Will Hurst (56), who was
climbing with two guides and another
client, fell through a snow bridge. At
the time, they were on snowshoes
and at an elevation of 9,700 feet. He
was roped and leading when the
0 1582
bridge collapsed and he dropped 20
Fall on Ice—Faulty Use of Crampons, Climbing
2007 Unroped, InadequateNational
Alaska, Chugach Equipment, No Hard Hat, Inexperie
Forest,
Byron Glacier
On September 25th at 1815, Alaska
State Troopers notified the Alaska
Mountain Rescue Group (AMRG)
requested assistance for J.
Roggenkamp (27), who was wedged
in a crevasse on Byron Glacier.
0 1583
According to the subject’s climbing
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
2007 Wind, California,Tahquitz
California, TahquitzRock
Rock
On January 24, Nathan Thomas
Parrish’s (25) body was found at the
base of South Face of Tahquitz Rock
between Open Book and Left Ski
Track.
Jim Russell, U.S. Forest Service
partnership coordinator and two
0 1584
companions found the body and
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
2007 Wyoming,
FALL Wind
ON
reported River Range,
it.ROCK, theMount
CLIMBING
“Between Bonneville
two ALONE
climbs, I
AND UNROPED

Wyoming, Wind River Range, Mount

Bonneville

On September 6, Ken Koski (56) fell

to his death while either ascending or
0 1585
descending the Southeast Ridge of
Mount Bonneville. He was in 4th and
 Fall on Rock, Climbing Rope under Leg, 2007
Fatigue,Oregon,
Oregon, Smith
SmithRockRockState
StatePark, Five
Park, Gallon Buckets
Five
Gallon Buckets
On October 29, Matt Amling (21) of
Portland traveled to Smith Rock State
Park with his climbing class from a
Willamette Valley Community College.
The class was working on Five Gallon
Buckets, a 5.8 climb rated four stars
0 1586
by Jonathan Thesenga in his new
Fall on Rock, Colorado, Black Canyon of 2007
the Gunnison, Scenic
Colorado, Journey
Black Canyon of the
Gunnison, Scenic Journey
On May 17, Craig Smith (21) was
leading the eighth pitch of the 13-pitch
climb Scenic Journey (5.10+), when
he wedged his hand into a crack in
the rock face to gain a hold. The
move was awkward and he couldn’t
0 1587
make it stick. He fell both the ten feet
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Instincts—Not
2007 to California,
Climb ThatYosemite
Day, California, Yosemite
National Park, National Park, Lo
Low Profile Dome
At 1630 on September 8, Ranger
Mike Yost received a call at the
Tuolumne Meadows Ranger Station
regarding an injured climber at the
base of Low Profile Dome. The report
came from a credible local climber,
0 1588
Peter Croft, who said he watched a
Fall on Rock, Falling Rock—Climber Standing
2007 onColorado,
Large Rock When
Little It Came
Bear, Loose, Face
Northwest Climbing Unroped, C
On July 2 about 10:00 a.m., an
experienced climber died from a fall
taken from the upper headwall (just
below the Blanca-Little Bear ridge) of
the Northwest Face route on Little
Bear. The party he was in was not
roped at the time. He tried to move on
0 1589
a large rock that appeared to be solid.
Fall on Rock, Free-Solo Climbing, El Potrero
2007 Chico,
On The Scariest 24,
November RideJimmy
in the Rae
Park
Forester (43) fell to his death while
free-soloing The Scariest Ride in the
Park (5.9). He had failed to return to
camp and was found the next day at
the base of this 40-pitch climb.
(Editor’s Note: The following excerpts
are from an article in the March 2001
0 1590
issue of Rock and Ice “Forester was
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, West
2007
Virginia,
West
wellNelson
knownRocks
Virginia, Preserve
Nelson
throughout Rocks Preserve
Oklahoma and
West Virginia State Police say
Amanda Joy Crawford was climbing a
“via ferrata” (iron way) at the Nelson
Rocks Preserve in Pendleton County
when she unhooked one of her lines
to go around a tree, mis-stepped, and
fell almost 150 feet. She was
0 1591
pronounced dead at the scene.
 Fall on Rock, Lowering Error—Lost Control
2007 of Belay and NoEldorado
Colorado, Knot in End of Rope,
Canyon No Hard Hat, Colorad
State
Park, Rincon
On January 19, James Harr (25) fell
to his death when his partner Dave
Booton lost control of the climbing
rope he was using to lower Harr to the
ground. The rope slipped through
Booton’s belay plate. Harr’s fall was
0 1592
20 feet and he landed on his head.
Fall on Rock, No Helment, Maine, Acadia 2007
National Park, Acadia
Maine, Gunklandia
National Park,
Gunklandia
On October 8th around 11:30 a.m.,
my girlfriend, a group of friends, and I
were top-roping Old Town and a few
adjacent routes at the Precipice. Two
young women were climbing the
nearby route Gunklandia. For reasons
0 1594
unknown, the experienced lead
Fall on Rock, Off Route, Failure to Turn2007
Back, Party Separated,
Idaho, Inexperience,
Lost River Inadequate Equipment, Idah
Range, Mount
Church
On August 4, I.C. (41) and B.B. (36)
set out to climb the standard route on
Mount Church (12,200 feet) in the
Lost River Range.
The approach to Mount Church
begins with a strenuous 1.5 miles,
0 1595
one thousand foot climb through the
Fall on Rock, Off Route, Inadequate Belay,
2007Colorado, Eldorado
Colorado,
forested Canyon
Eldorado
bottom State
Canyon
of the Park,
Jones Red Garden Wall
State
Creek
Park, Red Garden Wall
On July 13 a climber (37) took a 100-
foot fall on the Red Garden wall in
Eldorado Springs before his partner
managed to control the rope, stopping
his partner’s descent about ten feet
above a rock ledge. The climber
0 1596
suffered minor head injuries and cuts,
Fall on Rock, Position—Facing out, Down-Climbing
2007 Slabs, California,
California, YosemiteYosemite
National National
Park, Park, Lembert D
Lembert Dome
On August 14, Aaron Barnett (19) and
Dustin Holcomb (21) were going to
climb the NW Books (5.6) on Lembert
Dome. Holcomb had led it before and
would lead today. The approach to
many of the routes in this area,
0 1597
including the NW Books, involve 2nd
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inadequate
2007 Protection,
California,Exceeding
YosemiteAbilities,
NationalCalifornia,
Park, Yosemite Nat
Cathedral Peak
Cathedral Peak South East Buttress
is a popular six-pitch moderate alpine
climb, with many variations, about 3.5
miles from the road, at around the
10,500-foot elevation. This incident
involved a party of three climbers,
0 1598
Dave Lubertozzi (42), Sumi Nadarajah
 Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled, Inadequate
2007Protection, California,
California, Yosemite
Yosemite Valley,
Valley, El El Capitan, Salathé W
Capitan, Salathé Wall
On October 13, Martin Klinger (26) of
Germany was attempting to lead the
first pitch of the Salathé Wall on El
Capitan. He was with a party of two
other climbers from Pennsylvania who
intended to climb the Free Blast
0 1599
section of the Salathé Wall. Klinger
Fall on Rock, Protection Unclipped, Inadequate
2007 Protection
On July 2, Utah,
PaulBig Cottonwood
Sternman (24)Canyon, Beware of Dog
suffered a ground-fall of
approximately 60 feet on Beware of
Dog, a 5.l0d sport climb at the upper
S-curves, Big Cottonwood Canyon.
The route has four bolts. The first
three cover the crux of the climb,
followed by a long run-out on easier
0 1600
terrain. Paul was leading between the
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error—Failure to 2007
Equalize Ends of Rappel
California, Rope,Tree
Joshua and Failure to Park,
National Tie Knots in the End
Solid Gold
On February 8, Jay Fitzgerald (21)
and Victor Guzik (21 were simul-
rappel- ling off of the second rappel of
“Solid Gold” in the Wonderland of
Rocks when this accident occurred.
The climbers incorrectly equalized the
0 1601
ends of the rope for the rappel,
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error—Worn Harness,
2007 Belay Loop Broke,
California, California,
Yosemite Yosemite
Valley, Valley, Leaning Tow
Leaning
Tower
On October 23, Todd Skinner (48)
and his partner Jim Hewitt were
rappelling fixed lines from the Jesus
Built My Hotrod route after an attempt
at free-climbing it. The belay loop on
Skinner’s harness broke when his
0 1602
body weighted the system. He fell
Fall on Rock, Wyoming, Grand Teton National
2007 Park, Garnet Canyon
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park,
Garnet Canyon
On July 22 at 1445, Teton Dispatch
forwarded a cellphone caller to me.
John Coombs who told me that Eva
Bell (22) a member of his party, had
fallen and tumbled approximately 80
to 100 feet at the base of the Open
0 1603
Book route in Garnet Canyon. He told
Fall on Rock—Protection Pulled Out, No 2007
Hard Hat, California,
California, JoshuaTree
Joshua Tree National
National Park,
Park,Spider Line
Spider Line
On January 15, Daniel Scott (26) was
climbing Spider Line (5.11c) when one
his anchors pulled out causing him to
fall twelve feet. According to one
posting on SuperTopo, Scott had
hung on this piece of protection three
0 1605
or four times before going for the
 Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped, Inexperienced,
2007 Colorado, Longs
Colorado, LongsPeak, Lamb's
Peak, Lamb'sSlide
Slide
On August 19, Ben Cort (age
unknown) was climbing Lamb’s Slide
with two friends. When Cort was at
the top, he lost his footing and fell
some 800 feet. “The next thing you
know I was just flying down the
mountain without my ice ax,” he said.
0 1606
“That’s when it gets bad.” Traveling at
Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped, Utah,2007Mount Olympus
Utah, Mount Olympus
On January 21, a group of seven
climbers from the Korean Alpine Club
of Utah started an ascent of Mount
Olympus from the Pete’s Rock
trailhead. Their plan was to snowshoe
to the South summit via the Tolcat
Trail, then down-climb to the couloir
0 1607
between the two summits and
Fall on Snow/Ice, Climbing Alone, California,
2007 Mount Shasta,Mount
California, CasavalShasta,
Ridge Casaval
Ridge
On April 28, an experienced young
man (17) was climbing alone to train
for a Denali climb this season. He fell
while down-climbing in loose rocks on
Casaval Ridge about 11,000 feet at
0345. He slid on snow/ice
0 1608
approximately 50 vertical feet on a 40-
Fall on Snow/Ice, Unable to Self-Arrest,2007
Inexperience, California,
California, Mount Mount Shasta,
Shasta, Avalanche Gulch
Avalanche
Gulch
On June 3 at 0750, a man (41) fell on
snow/ice while ascending at
approximately 12,500 feet at the base
of the Red Banks in Avalanche Gulch.
He attempted to self-arrest but was
unsuccessful and fell/slid 1,100
0 1609
vertical feet. During the fall, his left
Fall on Snow/Ice—Unable to Self-Arrest,2007
Inadequate Protection,
Oregon, MountOregon,
Hood, Mount
South Hood,
Side South Side
On June 17, Aaron Dunlap (31),
Jeremy Hawkins (32), and Brad Wood
(30), were just below the Pearly Gates
when two of them lost their footing
and slid down the 50-degree slope,
stopping about 450 feet below in the
Devil’s Kitchen area about the 11,000-
0 1610
foot level.
Fall on Snow—Ski Mountaineering, Inadequate
2007 Equipment for the Hood,
Oregon, Mount Conditions,
Reid Oregon,
Glacier Mount Hood, Reid
On May 6, four experienced climbers
were circumnavigating Mount Hood
(crossing Yokum Ridge) at the 7,600-
foot elevation when telemark skier
Jeremy (41) lost his edge on an icy
patch and fell about 300 feet over
rocky slabs. The other three skiers
0 1611
(randonée) were able locate the
 sustaining more serious injuries or
death. The snow conditions they were
skiing were considered to be fairly
soft, so to ski with an ice ax may have
been overly cumbersome. Though it is
Fall on Snow—Ski Mountaineering, Unable
2007 to Self-Arrest toAlaska,
The “Whiskey
difficult Mountself-arrest
McKinley,
Expedition”
speculate, departedOrient Express
ski
the 14,200-foot
poles that are madecampfor atski-
noon on May
25 for a summit may
mountaineering bid via
havethe had
uppergood
West Rib of Denali. Their plan was to
results.
summit
This rescueand involved
then accomplish a ski
using specialized
descent
personnel who are competent atTwo
via the Orient Express.
days prior to
ascending this
and they had skied
descending steeponice
the lower portion of the
and snow on skis. The personnelOrient (upand
to
0 1612
16,000 feet) and had judged
specialized equipment used for this the snow
Fall on Snow—Ski Mountaineering, Wyoming,
2007 Grand Tetons
rescue were exposed to a variety of
hazardous terrain and weather
conditions during the operation.
Remarkably, there were no injuries
sustained during the operation.
(Source: Edited from a report by Chris
Harder, Ranger and Incident
0 1613 Commander)
Falling Rocks—Dislodged by Climbers,2007
Party Separated, PoorMount
California, Position, California,
Shasta, Mount Shasta, Avalan
Avalanche
Gulch
Two separate parties (totaling four
people) were climbing Avalanche
Gulch in the poor September
conditions (loose rocks, lack of snow).
Unfamiliar with the route, they veered
off route at 13,000 feet and crossed
0 1614
the open Konwakiton Glacier.
Frostbite—Inadequate Clothing (No Overboots)
2007 and Inadequate
Alaska, MountCare of Extremities,
McKinley, West Alaska, Mount McKi
Buttress
Jerry Hopfe flew onto Denali on May 2
as a part of the three-member
“Steves” team. The group made
steady progress arriving at 14,200
feet early on May 11 after camping a
night at 13,500 feet. At 0200 on the
0 1616
12th, the team of three departed the
Frostbite—Inadequate Clothing, Alaska,2007
Mount McKinley,
Alaska, MountWest Buttress
McKinley, West
Buttress
On June 2nd, guided expedition AMS-
5-Wilkinson departed the 17,200- foot
camp on the West Buttress of Mount
McKinley for the summit at 0600. This
group of six, including two guides,
flew to the mountain on May 15th and
0 1617
had made gradual ascent to the
Hand-Holds Broke Off—Fall on Rock, 2007
Wyoming,Wyoming,
Grand Teton National
Grand TetonPark, Direct Park,
National Jensen Ridge
Direct Jensen Ridge
On August 5 about 1430, Exum Guide
Mark Newcomb (39) fell about 80 feet
when his hand-holds broke off while
ascending the Direct Jensen Ridge
route of Symmetry Spire. He was
about two pitches from the top of the
0 1619
technical portion of the route. He was
 not below the snow’s surface either in
a crevasse, debris, or a cave, they
would have been found. This is
certainly part of the basis for
assessing the likelihood of each of the
HAPE, Party Separated, Alaska, Mount2007
McKinley,scenarios discussed
West Buttress
Alaska, Mount above.
McKinley, West
But of
Buttress course many other factors go
into each assessment, the
On May 28 at 0745, John Tatzalaff most
important
(39) of Team Springer Zissouevidence
being the physical
available
requestedand NPS theassistance
collective atknowledge
the
and experience
14,200-foot camp of because
the dozens he of
was
individuals
experiencing involved in breathing.
difficulty the searchAas
well as theexamination
thorough expertise contributed
by Paramedic by
0 1620 many members of the that
climbing
Paul Nelson revealed Tatzalff
Ischemia and Coronary Occlusion—Alaska,
2007 Mount McKinley,
Alaska,
community. Mount West
And Rib/Cassin
McKinley,
while Westbe
it could
Rib/Cassin
endlessly debated exactly how each
On April
piece 26, H. Deanshould
of information Barkley,be Jr. (47)
and his partner
weighed were attempting
and interpreted, to it
ultimately
climb
will notthe West the
resolve Rib issue
and Cassin
of whatroutes
of Denali. Barkley
happened to thesehad a history of
experienced
cardiac problems.
climbers and is only Approximately
useful to the two
hours out
extent of basecamp,
it educates othershe towards the
0 1621
experiencedofaaccidents
prevention cardiac event.
in the The
future.
Overdue Climbers—Disappeared, Probably
2007Perished in a Snow Cave from Hypothermia and/or Asphyxiat
(Source: Meg Purdue, Ranger)
(Editor’s Note: This report is included
in its entirety in order to demonstrate
the level of care and hard work that is
put into each search, rescue, and
investigation. Special thanks to Daryl
Miller,; Chief Sub-district Ranger, for
0 1622 his oversight and years of dedication.)
Rappel Error—Anchor Failed, Colorado,2007
BoulderColorado,
Canyon, Boulderado
Boulder Canyon,
Boulderado
On June 3 at 1635, the Boulder
County Sheriff’s Office was advised of
a fallen climber in Boulder Canyon.
Rocky Mountain Rescue Group,
Pride- mark Ambulance, Nederland
Fire Department, Sugarloaf Fire
0 1623
Department, Boulder County Victim
Rappel Error—Fall on Rock, California,2007
Owens River Gorge,Owens
California, China WallRiver Gorge, China
Wall
On February 4, Ian Seevers Mack
(23) died after falling 115 feet while
climbing China Wall.
Apparently Mack was preparing to
rappel when he fell. Mack was
anchored and as his partner was
0 1624
preparing to take a photo, Mack
Rappel Error—Incorrect Set Up at Anchor,
2007Haste, Failure to Check System, Deviation from Routine, Distr
Around 2:30 p.m. on May 27th,
Donald Gallo (39), Somsanouck Gallo
(40), along with a friend, M. E., set out
to climb The North Ridge, a 5.5 trad
route on Table Rock. The three had
arrived the night before and this was
the first route of the holiday weekend.
0 1625
The area was busy, since much of the
 legislature proposed bills which
mandate electronic signaling devices
(Personal Locator Beacons, Mountain
Locator Beacon, GPS receiver with
cellphone, and/or two-way radios) for
Rappel Error—Ropes Uneven, Fall on Rock, 2007 California, Yosemite
California,
all climbs National
Yosemite
above 10,000 Park,
National Arch
Park,Rock
on Mount
Arch Rock
Hood. Most local rescue personal and
On June encourage
climbers 9, Megan Polk, (27)ofand
the use such
Brian O’Daybut
equipment hiked
do notup believe
to Anticipation,
its use
a short be
should 5.11b climb at
required. ForArch
thisRock.
particular
They climbed the initial
accident, the stormy weather 5.9 pitch
delayed
(about
reaching 50even
feet) known
to a small ledge in
locations and
the
set
summit area, so electronic signaling90-
up an anchor at the start of the
0 1626
foot
would 5.11
notpitch,
likely ahave
few affected
feet left ofthethe
Stranded, Late Start, Weather, Exposure, 2007
Probable Fall on Snow/Ice (Two), and Hypothermia (One), Oreg
outcome. (Source: Jeff Scheetz,
Portland Mountain Rescue)
(Editor’s Note: Robert Speik, one of
our sources for reports from Oregon,
has an interesting website readers
may wish to access. It is as follows:
http://www.tradi-
1 1627 tionalmountaineering. org)
Stranded—Ropes Stuck in Crack, Inadequate2007 Clothing, Equipment
California, and Food,
Yosemite Fatigue
National Park,
Fairview Dome
At 2048 on August 13, Matt Ciancio
was solo climbing the regular route on
Fairview Dome when he heard cries
for help. Ciancio stopped midway up
the route to investigate. He made
verbal contact with two climbers. They
1 1628
told him that their ropes were stuck in
Acute Abdominal Pain, Alaska, Denali National
2008 Park, Mount
Alaska, McKinley,
Denali National West Buttress
Park, Mount
McKinley, West Buttress
Alan Arnette (50) registered with the
National Park Service as a client with
an Alaska Mountaineering School
guided expedition (AMS-11) on June
12. Following an uneventful climb to
17,200 feet, Arnette began
0 1630
experiencing difficulties acclimating to
AMS, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mount 2008McKinley,
Alaska,West Buttress
Denali National Park, Mount
McKinley, West Buttress
Masamichi Kobayashi (65) was a part
of the Tokyo-JAC expedition
comprised of four Japanese men.
They flew onto the mountain on June
14 and progressed to the 17,200-foot
camp in average time. This team
0 1631
shadowed a larger Japanese IARC-
Atrial Fibrillation, Alaska, Denali National
2008Park, Mount
Alaska,McKinley, West Buttress
Denali National Park, Mount
McKinley, West Buttress
Jack Ziegler (50) registered with the
National Park Service as a member of
a Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., guided
expedition, with Greg Collins being
the lead guide. The expedition flew
onto the mountain via Hudson Air
0 1632
Service and proceeded up on a
 Avalanche, Climbing Unroped, Placed No 2008
Protection, Alaska,
Alaska, DenaliDenali National
National Park,
Park, Mount Barrill, Japane
Mount
Barrill, Japanese Couloir
On Tuesday evening, May 15th,
Andre Callari (33) and Brian
Postlethwait (32) set out from their
Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside
basecamp on the Ruth Glacier to
On May 20, professional guide Joe
climb the “Japanese Couloir” route on
Owens (also a PMR team leader)
Mount Barrill. Several other parties on
0 1633 encountered an injured climber at the
the glacier watched them begin their
Avalanche, Poor Position, Failure to Heed
2008 9,300-foot
Avalanche
NewWarning, elevation
Hampshire, Inadequate being assisted
Equipment,
Huntington RavineNewby Hampshire, H
another guide. 20th
On December The unguided climber
three climbers
(age
were unknown)
suiting up had aftercaught his at the
breakfast
crampon
Harvard Cabin when USFS while
on the snow crust Snow
descending
Ranger Jeff and Lanebadly twisted
entered the his
ankle.
building.The
Jeffguides
was in splinted the ankle,
the process of
packaged the climber in a sleeping
writing the avalanche advisory for the
bag/tarp, and loweredRavine
gullies of Huntington him during
and
0 1634 deteriorating weather and visibility.
asking visitors what their plans were
Fall into Crevasse—Unable to Self-Rescue,
2008Alaska,
TheDenali
Alaska, National
Denali
climber was Park, Mount
National Park,to
transferred McKinley,
Mount
a ski West Buttres
McKinley, West Buttress
area snowcat. They also alerted the
On May 25
subject's two about
climbing1900, Val Todd
partners, (61)
who
fell into a crevasse
were unaware of the injury. at the 7,500-foot
level,
Analysisabout 2.5 miles out from
basecamp
Members ofona the Kahiltna
climbing Glacier.
party must He
dragged his companion,
remain in contact (communication) Berlin Nelson
(61),each
with until the
other falltowas held mutual
provide by a
0 1635
combinationinofthe
assistance Nelson,
event rope
of an drag, and
accident,
Fall on Crusty Snow—"Caught" a Crampon 2008While Descending, Party Separated, Oregon, Mount Hood, So
thereby permitting the party to self-
rescue as appropriate. Professional
guides often perform Good Samaritan
rescues because of their opportune
locations, good equipment/training,
and humanitarian attitudes. (Source:
Jeff Sheetz, Portland Mountain
0 1636 Rescue)
Fall on Ice, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
2008
Oregon, Mount Hood,
Oregon, MountSouthside
Hood, Southside
On January 27, an experienced
Mazama Club climbing leader (65)
was climbing solo on the popular
Southside route when he slipped at
9,000-foot elevation, sliding about 50
feet before arresting. He suffered a
leg fracture during the fall. By yelling
0 1637
and waving, he was able to attract the
Fall on Ice, No Protection, Not Wearing2008
Crampons, Colorado,North
Colorado, NorthCheyenne
Cheyenne Canyon,
Canyon,Hully Gully
Hully Gully
On January 30, moments before
falling 170 feet to his death,
experienced climber Reid Judson
Hunt (32) asked two climbers at a
popular ice wall in southwest
Colorado Springs if they were done on
0 1638
the “upper pitch,” or top part. Pete
 Fall on Ice—Rappel Error, Alaska, Denali
2008National Park, Mount
Alaska, DenaliWake
National Park, Mount
Wake
On April 23, Jed Kallen-Brown (23)
and Lara Kellogg (38) were climbing
the Northeast Ridge of Mount Wake
(9,100 feet) in the Ruth Gorge of
Denali National Park and Preserve.
The pair turned around in the
0 1639
afternoon and began descending the
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Route, Climbing
2008 Alone, Fatigue,
Colorado, Colorado,
Rocky MountainRocky Mountain National Park
National
Park, Longs Peak
On August 19 about 7:30 a.m., RMNP
Dispatch received a cellphone call
from a visitor reporting an accident
and requesting help on Longs Peak.
The reporting party indicated that they
were on the Ledges of the Keyhole
0 1640
Route with a woman who had fallen
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Clothing, North
2008
Carolina, Shortoff
North Mountain,
Carolina, LittleMountain,
Shortoff Corner
Little Corner
On Saturday March 17, M. McNeely
(age unknown) and her husband
David, both experienced climbers,
were attempting Little Corner (5.6) a
rock climb located on Shortoff
Mountain at the south end of North
0 1641
Carolina’s rugged Linville Gorge
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Colorado,
2008 Eldorado
Colorado,Canyon State Park
Eldorado Canyon State
Park
In mid May, Jerome Stiller (50), a
part-time instructor in Regis
University’s teacher training program,
was supposed to play the “victim” in a
mountain rescue exercise Saturday.
Instead, he ended up dangling
0 1642
unconscious for real at the end of a
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Colorado,
2008 Eldorado
Colorado,Canyon State Park,
Eldorado Canyon Roof Routes
State
Park, Roof Routes
On April 22, an experienced climber
(24) fell from about 20 feet up on
“Kloberdanze” (5.11). As he was
trying to clip in to his first piece of
protection, his foot slipped, so he fell
to the ground. He fractured his left
0 1643
leg. Also of note is that he was not
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Off2008
Route—Lost Time, Haste,
California, Darkness,
Yosemite California,
National Park, Yosemite Nation
Half Dome
On August 19, Robert Kuntz (31) and
Ryan Worsham (age unknown) hiked
up the slabs approach to the
Northwest Face of Half Dome. Their
plan was to climb the Regular Route
of the Northwest Face (VI 5.9 Cl) in a
0 1645
one- day push. After talking to other
 to the incident and quickly reported it
to CIRO base via radio. Employees
Randy Farley and Tom Harper
responded. 911 was called and the
Almo QRU was dispatched. Life Flight
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Overconfidence,
2008 Colorado,
Colorado,
from the LDS Durango
Durango
Hospital in Salt Lake
Afterand
City 17 years
LR1 from of rock climbing,
Burley were bad
judgment finally
dispatched. caught up with
Superintendent me.
Wallace
Don’t was
Keck let it also
happen to you.
notified Climbing
within minutes.
near Durango,
Cassia I was onClark
Sheriff Deputy a routeWard well was
within my ability and moved
also en route. CIRO employees were about
eight
on scene feet within
above 20 a piece
minutes of protection,
of the fall.
which I knew was
Farley began emergency care, probably lesswiththan
0 1646
ideal. Thinking, “There’s
Harper assisting. Care included basic no way I’ll fall
Fall on Rock, Lowering Failure—No Belay2008or Backup,
NorthNorth Carolina,
Carolina, LittleLittle Pinnacle,
Pinnacle, PilotPilot Mountain Sta
assessment, oxygen and splinting in
Mountain State Park
preparation for transport. Keck took
On May 23, a group of 35 Boy Scouts
statements and gathered information.
of America leaders were participating
Life Flight arrived at the landing zone
in high-angle rescue training at Pilot
at 12:18 p.m. The patient was always
Mountain State Park.
conscious, and did not appear to
Their activity took place in the vicinity
sustain any head injury. The patient
of Kiss My Ass (5.8) when S. Richter
0 1647 was alert and coherently
(23), one of the participants, fell
Fall on Rock, Montana, Glacier National2008 communicating
Park, Gendarme
Montana, Glacier upon departure
National from
approximately 35 feet. His Park,
injuries
CIRO.
Gendarme No further information
concerning
On July 3, rangers the patientfromwasGlacier
determined
National Park prior
andtowardens
this report.from
Analysis
Canada’s Banff National Park and
Both
Watertonclimbs Lakescan National
be protected Park
adequately
cooperated though “Terrorofofan
in the rescue Tiny
injured
Town” is a precarious
climber. The climber, Denis Twohig layback using
0 1648 very smallWhite- cams, fish,
and hadDonini’s Crack
(68) from taken a 15-
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Placed
2008Inadequate theProtection,
Maine,
(in Acadia
area Maine,
National
of the Acadia
Park, National Park, Champla
fall) requires
Champlain
utilizing Mountain
somewhat subtle pods for
The following
pro. An aboveisaverage derivedability
from to place
interviews
and assesswith the the climbers
quality at the
of removable
accident scene
protection and anon
is indicated interview
both climbs.with
the injured
Note that there climberwere after the incident.
climbing
Two individuals
accidents in the were
City ofclimbing the
Rocks/Castle
route,
Rocks that Park personnel didn’t (5.9),
“Recollections of Pacifica” hear
0 1649
which
about untilis located on the southern
well afterwards. (Source: wall
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out—Inadequate
2008 Protection,
of Champlain Idaho, City of Rocks National
11 Reserve, Bath
Brad Schilling,Mountain, at about
Climbing Ranger)
(Editor’s Note: There are lots of “falls
on rock” at this climbing area, which
are to be expected given that climbers
are trying to climb harder routes here.
Most do not result in injury, but many
of the ones that do go unreported for
0 1650 obvious reasons.)
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out—Inadequate
2008 Protection,
Idaho, CityIdaho,
of RocksCityNational
of Rocks National Reserve, Buzz
Reserve, Buzzard's Perch
On September 26 at 5:45 p.m., Adam
Baxter (24) fell while attempting to
lead “Terror of Tiny Town,” a 5.11
climb on the Buzzard’s Perch in City
of Rocks National Reserve. Baxter
was about 30 feet off the ground and
0 1651
had placed two cams when he fell.
 Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled—Inadequate
2008 Protection,
Arizona,Belayer in Poor
Sullivan Position,
Canyon, Arizona, Sullivan Cany
Chino
Valley
On March 4, I was climbing a thin,
dihedral crack with a bulge about 30
feet up. I had two nuts in below me as
I approached the bulge. My belayer
was sitting back from the base of the
climb about 20 or so feet because the
0 1652
wall was at a lower angle for the first
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error—Rappelled2008
Off of End of Rope,Red
Nevada, No Knot in End
Rocks, OakofCreek
Ropes, Darkness, Commu
Canyon
On February 10, Sheila Matz (50+),
RH (Bob), JU (Joanne), MG (Marilyn),
PB (Phil), MG (Mike) and JS (Jim)
met to climb at Red Rocks. The day
was clear and sunny with a light
breeze and temperatures in the mid-
0 1654
60’s. The Climbing experience of the
Fall on Rock—Belay Failure, No Stopper
2008
Knot, Missed Clues,Yosemite
California, Inattention, No Hard
Valley Hat, California, Yosem
National
Park, Church Bowl
On October 12, Adam (31), Jason
(57) and his son Colby (20) were
climbing one-pitch routes at the
Church Bowl climbing area using a
70m (230-foot) rope. Adam consulted
the SuperTopo guide for route data
0 1655
and they picked out climbs as they
Fall on Rock—Lowering Error Colorado,2008
EldoradoOnState
MayPark,
14, aThe West Ridge
climber (22) led
Washington Irving (5.6), and at the
top of the pitch, he clipped his rope
into a fixed anchor. His partner began
to lower him. When the climber was
about 15 feet from the starting ledge,
the end of the rope slipped through
his belayer’s device, so the climber
0 1656
fell 15 feet, injuring his lower back.
Fall on Rock—Rappel Error, California,2008
YosemiteCalifornia,
Valley, Royal ArchesValley, Royal
Yosemite
Arches
On November 20, Meghan (30) and
Matt (40), a husband and wife team,
had spent a relaxed day climbing
Royal Arches (17 pitches, 5.7 A1 or
5.9). Their friends, Greg and Rick,
were climbing below them as an
0 1657
independent party. Meghan and Matt
Fall on Rock—Rappel Error—No Backup 2008System,Arkansas,
Arkansas, Buffalo
Buffalo National
National River
River Wilderness Area, Ha
Wilderness Area, Hawksbill Crag
On the afternoon of August 25th, a
20-year-old woman was rappelling off
a 100-foot bluff near Hawksbill Craig,
also known as Whitaker Point, in the
Forest Service’s Upper Buffalo
Wilderness Area. On the way down
0 1658
the bluff, she apparently struck a tree
 Fall on Snow, "Caught" a Crampon While 2008
Descending,
Oregon,Unable
Mountto Self-Arrest, Oregon, Mount Hood, South
Hood, Southside
On July 29, a climber (45) caught a
crampon tip while descending the
standard Southside route, falling
about 300 feet. He was unable self-
arrest, but as his ice ax was attached
to his wrist, it probably caused a
shoulder dislocation during the
0 1659
attempt. He also suffered facial
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Navigation Skills,
2008 Unable to Self-Arrest—Ice
Oregon, Mount Hood,Axes on Packs Instead of in Hand
Southside
On Saturday February 18, a party of
eight climbers departed Timberline
lodge for a climb to Illumination
Saddle (9,300-foot elevation) where
they dug snow caves in preparation
for a summit bid on Sunday.
The decision to abort the summit
0 1660
attempt was prompted by the
Fall on Snow, No Hard Hat, California, 2008
Mount Shasta, Avalanche
California,
scheduled Mount Gulch
arrival Shasta,
of a majorAvalanche
storm
Gulch
system with high winds (gusts to 74
On January 28, a man (44) and his
son were attempting to climb the
Avalanche Gulch route on Mount
Shasta. They were unsuccessful and
began descending. Around 1300, the
father fell on snow about the 11,500-
0 1661
foot level, sliding 700 feet. A witness
Fall on Snow, Sprain/Strain, Alaska, Denali
2008National Park,Denali
Alaska, MountNational
McKinley, WestMount
Park, Buttress
McKinley, West Buttress
The “To Zee Top” expedition started
their attempt of the West Buttress on
June 9 and proceeded on a normal
schedule for the climb. After spending
several days at the 17,200-foot high
camp in poor weather, the team
0 1662
decided to descend on June 28,
Fall on Snow/Ice, Inadequate Equipment—Ice
2008 AxNew on Pack Instead ofMount
Hampshire, in Hands, Darkness, New Hampshire
Washington,
Tuckerman Ravine
On March 31, a climber injured his leg
after falling down Tuckerman Ravine.
He was with two friends. The three of
them climbed Central Gully, hiked
across the Alpine Garden, and began
descending into Tuckerman Ravine at
0 1663
dark. He was wearing crampons at
Fall on Snow—Faulty Use of Crampons, 2008
California, Mount Shasta,
California, MountAvalanche Gulch
Shasta, Avalanche
Gulch
On July 3, a climber fell near The
Heart in Avalanche Gulch at 12,500
feet while descending and stuck his
crampons into his calf, receiving
multiple deep puncture wounds. A
USFS Climbing Ranger at Helen Lake
0 1664
made contact with the climber at
 Fall on Snow—Unable to Self-Arrest, Party
2008Separated,
FALLClimbing Unroped, No Hard
ON SNOW-UNABLE Hat, Oregon, Mount H
TO SELF-
ARREST, PARTY SEPARATED,
CLIMBING UNROPED, NO HARD
HAT

Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside

On September 7, while ascending the

0 1665
standard Southside route, one climber
Falling Rocks—Pulled Loose by Climbing
2008Ropes,Colorado,
Colorado,
(36) Rocky
of a party of Mountain
Mountain
two National
footingPark,
National
lost his at The Diamon
Park, The Diamond
about 11,000-foot elevation and fell
Around 2 p.m. on August 7, two
climbers (ages unknown) retreated
from the Dunn-Westbay (V 5.10 C3).
One of the duo was rappelling to
Green Pillar Ledge, a bivy platform at
the end of pitch-two, while the other
0 1666
climber waited at the anchors above
Falling Rock—Dislodged by Climbing Partner,
2008 Poor Position,Sierra
California, California, Sierra
Nevada, Nevada, Dunderberg Peak
Dunderberg
Peak
During the course of the weekend of
27–29 April, I (Peter Francev, 29) met
two friends (Jason Hundley, 30, and
P.J. Gordon, 29) near Bridgeport,
California for an early spring ascent of
Dunderberg Peak. Our plan was to
0 1667
climb Dunderberg in preparation for a
Falling Rock—Pulled Loose by Climbing2008
Ropes, Colorado,
Colorado, Rocky
RockyMountain
MountainNational
NationalPark, Lumpy Ridge
Park, Lumpy Ridge
On August 8, two climbers were
descending from a completed climb of
Batman Pinnacle. The climbers were
rappelling down a loose, talus-filled
gully when their rope got stuck. One
of the two, (36), scrambled back up
0 1668
the gully to try and dislodge the rope.
HACE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West2008Buttress Alaska, Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
On June 29 Stefan Jeronin (40), a
client of Mountain Trip, collapsed
below Denali Pass about 18,000 feet.
He was treated on the hill for HACE
symptoms and short-roped down to
the 17,200-foot camp on the West
0 1669
Buttress, where he was further
Protection Pulled Out—Fall on Rock, Inadequate
2008 Protection, California,
California, YosemitePark,
Yosemite National National
El Park, El Capit
Capitan
On May 17, Alexander Scola (28) and
his partner (23) were on their first
climbing trip to the U.S. from their
homes in Germany. Scola had been
climbing alpine and rock routes for
over eleven years and climbed at a
0 1672
high level of difficulty. Most of his
 Rope Around Leg—Stumble, British Columbia,
2008 Mount
BritishRobson National
Columbia, MountPark, Mount Robson
Robson
National Park, Mount Robson
During the mid-day of July 12th, a
team of three were climbing near the
top of the Kain Face on Mount
Robson. The climbing rope somehow
wrapped itself around A.H.’s leg. He
stumbled and consequently pulled his
0 1673
groin. The team lowered themselves
Seizures—Failure to Inform Guides of Medical
2008 Condition, Alaska,National
Alaska, Denali Denali National Park, Mount McKinley
Park, Mount
McKinley, West Buttress
A Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. guided
party led by Dave Hahn flew to the
Kahiltna on June 28 for a climb of
Mount McKinley. The nine clients and
three guides departed basecamp at
0400 on the June 30. Within a half
0 1674
hour after departing, it began to rain,
Snow Blindness—Failed to Wear Eye Protection,
2008 Alaska,
On JuneDenali
2, OureNational Park,(33)
Dalbinco Mount
wasMcKinley, West B
led by his partner to the medical tent
at 14,200 feet. Dalbinco was
completely blind in both eyes due to
snow blindness. This took longer than
normal to heal and due to the severity
of the injury, it was deemed safer to
fly him off rather than risk him
0 1675
traveling down the glacier. However,
Stranded, Off Route, Inadequate Equipment—Left
2008 Ropes Behind,
California, California,
Yosemite ValleyYosemite
NationalValley National Pa
Park, Washington Column
On July 15, two climbers (22 and 20)
were attempting to climb the Prow on
Washington Column. They decided to
retreat from the wall after reaching the
top of pitch six. After an attempt to
rappel their route, the pair concluded
0 1676
that a retreat down the Prow would be
Stranded—Benighted, Exposure—Inadequate
2008 Clothing and Equipment,
California, Yosemite Weather,
National Late
Park,Start, California, Yo
Royal Arches
My son Sascha (21) and I (54)
climbed the Royal Arches (5.7) route
in Yosemite Valley on April 10. The
weather forecast was sunny and clear
for that Tuesday and a chance of rain
on Wednesday. We carried a
0 1677
rucksack, 70-meter rope, a large rack
Weather—Failure to Turn Back, Inadequate
2008Clothing, Hypothermia
On Saturday, California,
November 10,Yosemite
Peter National Park, C
Noble (44) and I, Scott Berry (37), set
out to climb the Southeast Buttress
(five or six pitches, 5.6) to the summit
of Cathedral Peak (10,911 feet). I had
been bagging peaks and leading trad
routes up to 5.9 for a few years.
Peter, my best friend, had been at it
0 1679
for two. We hadn’t climbed this peak
 descent.
field teams back at Camp Muir.
The client was responsive and
Analysis
showed
Rescueslittle like signs
this show of discomfort
how easyother and
than favoring histhese
non-threatening right arm. He can
situations
explained
be under the thatright
as he dropped intoNote
circumstance. self-
Avalanche, Poor Position, Utah, Little Cottonwood
2008 Canyon,
Utah,
arrest,
that his Pfeifferhorn
Little
skilled Cottonwood
heavy
guides pack
and pulledCanyon,
planned hard
Pfeifferhorn
across his back considerably
communication and contributed to the
affected
On February
pain
the he felt in3,
response. hisBrian
RMI left Dutton
shoulder.
used (42)
additional anda
After
Joe Bullough
more detailed
personnel (42) attempted
assessment,
at Camp Muir who heto climb
also
were
the
ableEast
indicated
to helpRidge
thatashe ofonly
the Pfeifferhorn
felt a team
summit smallon the
Little
amount Cottonwood/American
of pain
arrived (after theonrescue
the insidewas of Forkhis
over)
ridgeline
bicep
back lateandat 11,326
inhad
theaevening. feet. range
limited On
Also, theof East
the
Summit
motion.
NPS was Ridge,
Otherwise, they
able to assemble triggered
he was fine, a small,
had a
a flight
0 1680
hard,
positive
team andslab avalanche
attitude, three
and showed
high altitude to
helicopter six
no other
on
Fall into Crevasse (Bridge Collapse)—Dislocated
2008 Shoulder, Washington, Mount Rainier, Emmons Glacier
signs of injury.
short notice. Most notably, an US
The
Armyguides decided
flight crew for athat he could
Chinook
continue
helicopterthe descent
came in onto Paradise
their off-day (in
unassisted,
under two hours) but only with aclimbers
to assist very lightin
pack—no
distress. These more factors,
than tenall pounds.
in place,
Everybody
were what made agreedfortoacontinuesafe andthis
way, andrescue
efficient it took response.
the group (Source: about four
0 1681 more hours to reach
Mike Gauthier, Climbing Paradise.
Ranger) The
Fall on Ice, Climbing Gear in Packs—Climbing
2008 guide
Unroped, continued
Washington, Washington, to check
Alpine Alpine on him
Lakes Wilderness Area, Sh
Lakes Wilderness
during the descent
Area, Sherpa Peak and reported that
he
On was doing fine
September 25,and Ottohad no
Vaclavek (53)
additional pain or discomfort.
died of hypothermia after falling
Once
between at Paradise,
100 and 150 the feet
climberdown was an
transported
ice slope and toover
a hospital
a cliff.for an X-
Vaclavek
RAY.
had noThere,broken the doctors
bones, sofound a
it’s unclear
dislocated shoulder. The
why he didn’t move from the location climber was
0 1682 treated and released that day.
where rescue crews found him.
Fall on Ice, Gear Racked Randomly, Fatigue,
2008 Failure
Southto Listen
Analysis Dakota, to Instincts,
Spearfish Possible
Canyon Senility, South Dakota
February 6.shoulders
Dislocated Aging ice are climber
one of (67)the
beginscommon
most approach too tired
injuries to get to
on Mount
base of climb
Rainier. (100 feet
A shoulder from road),
dislocation can but
be
with theto
difficult aid of skisometimes,
detect poles manages as this
anyway. shows.
incident Almost However,
senile, climber if left fails to
rack his ice screws
untreated, dislocated shoulders so as to easilycanget
at them on harness. (Left
lead to long-term disabilities in the them
0 1683
random racked randomly
arm. Fortunately on shoulder
for this climber,
Fall on Ice—Caused Shoulder Dislocation,
2008Washington, Mount Rainier, Kautz Glacier
doctors were able to reduce the injury,
and he walked away without any
serious complications. Based on the
information the guides had during the
incident, there wasn’t a compelling
reason to risk a helicopter flight.
(Source: Mike Gauthier, Climbing
0 1684 Ranger)
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Equipment, Wyoming,
2008 Grand
Wyoming,TetonGrandNational Park,National
Teton Mount Moran Park,
Mount Moran
On July 28th, Alison Arnold (53) fell
approximately ten to 15 feet while
descending the CMC route on Mount
Moran. Arnold was down-climbing into
the Drizzlepuss Notch near the
bottom of the CMC route as she
0 1685
slipped and fell. While falling, Arnold
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection at Rappel
2008 Anchor, Wyoming,
Wyoming, Grand Grand Teton
Teton National
National Park, Grand Teto
Park,
Grand Teton
At approximately 1500 on August 15,
Teton Interagency Dispatch Center
(TIDC) received a cellphone call from
Matej Bosak. Mr. Bosak reported that
his uncle, Vladimir Wojnar (55), fell
while descending the west side of the
0 1686
Grand Teton. He stated they were
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Carabiner
2008 Came WestoffVirginia,
Sling, Exceeding
New River Abilities,
Gorge West Virginia, New R
National Park, Beauty Mountain
On August 19, approximately twelve
or fifteen feet up on a route called
“Brainteasers” (5.10 a), CU (21)
placed a medium-sized hex, which
was attached to the rope via a
standard length sling. About eight to
0 1687
ten feet higher, CU placed a medium
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, West
2008
Virginia, New
West River Gorge,
Virginia, Endless
New River Wall
Gorge,
Endless Wall
On November 12, rangers and
Fayette County Emergency Services
personnel rescued a climber (age
unknown) who had fallen at the
Endless Wall climbing area. Rangers
Randy Fisher and Karl Keach,
0 1688
working with only a general
Fall on Rock, Oregon, Smith 2008 Oregon, Smith Rock State Park
Rock State Park On Sunday morning, November 4,
Jim Anglin (55) was descending into
the Lower Gorge by a Fourth Class
climbers’ way at the southeast end of
Smith Rock State Park when he lost
his footing and fell about 100 feet to
his death. No one saw him slip. Anglin
0 1689
and his climbing companions had
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out—Quality
2008 of Rock,
Utah,Utah,
Little Little Cottonwood
Cottonwood Canyon, Hellgate, Cliffs
Canyon,
Hellgate Cliffs
On August 4, Daniel Filler (21)
suffered a 15 to 20 foot ground-fall at
Hellgate Cliffs in Little Cottonwood
Canyon. He was climbing Dark Star
(5.12a), a trad route on a crag
otherwise fall of bolted climbs. He had
0 1690
placed three pieces when he fell. The
Fall on Rock, Wrong Type of Boots, No2008
Spotter, Washington,
Washington,Washington
Washington Pass, Liberty Bell
Pass,
Liberty Bell
I have been climbing since the early
1950s and still get out to unexplored
areas these days. After climbing in an
untouched area of the Pantheons in
the BC Coast Range, Mickey Schurr
and I headed off to do some classic
0 1691
climbs in the Cascades. There I
 Fall on Rock—Improper Use of Harness2008
(Tied into Gear Loop),
Texas, ReimersInadequate Protection,
Ranch County Inadequate Belay,
Park,
Dead Cat's Wall
On November 18, three adults acting
as guides took six teenagers on a
church youth group trip to Reimers
Ranch, a central Texas limestone
sport climbing area popular for its
concentration of moderate climbs.
0 1693
The group leader, Kyle Focht, had six
Fall on Snow/Ice from Anchor Point—Apparent
2008 Anchor
Wyoming,Failure Due Teton
Grand to External Forces
National Park,
Grand Teton
On April 29, Alan Rooney (38) and
Jonathan Morrow (28) fell to their
deaths while attempting an alpine
climb on the northwest side of the
Grand Teton. They fell about 1,500
feet down a very steep couloir
0 1694
containing several prominent ledges.
Falling Rock—Dislodged by Climber, Off
2008
Route, Wyoming,
Benighted, Grand
Exceeding
TetonAbilities,
NationalWyoming,
Park, Grand Teton
Mount Owen
On August 29 at 1300, I received a
report via park dispatch that a
climbing party on Serendipity Arete
(Mount Owen) reported (via
cellphone) hearing calls for help from
the area of the North Ridge of the
0 1696
Grand Teton. The park contract
Falling Rock—Handhold Pulled Off, Fall
2008
on Rock, Haste, NoGrand
Wyoming, Hard Hat,
TetonWyoming,
NationalGrand
Park,Teton National
Base of Irene's Arete
June 24. Leading on 5.3 terrain. Fifty
feet of rope out. Number 3 Camalot at
my knee. Trying to go fast. Pulled on
a hold. It broke off. I tipped over
backwards. Bounced and fell 30+ feet
on rock fins and ledges. Rope came
0 1697
taught right as I hit a large ledge.
Falling Rock—Thrown from Ledge, Wyoming,
2008 Wind River Range,
Wyoming, Leg Lake
Wind River Cirque
Range, Leg
lake Cirque
On August 11, Luke Rodolph (23)
stood on the rim of Upper Silas
Canyon with three of his friends. He
allegedly looked over the edge of the
rim and didn’t see anyone. He then
threw a rock about the size of a
0 1698
basketball off and looked over again
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Faulty
2008 UseWashington,
of Crampons, Mount
Washington,
Adams Mount Adams
On June 24, a climber (38), who had
summited Mount Adams alone, was
descending wearing crampons when
the points on the right crampon
“caught” his left leg, causing him to
fall and resulting in a broken ankle.
He was assisted down by a group of
0 1699
climbers until Tacoma Mountain
Rescue Unit evacuated him on a
Cascade litter. It involved multiple
 Lost—Weather, Inadequate Equipment,2008 Washington, Mount Rainier,
Washington, MountMuir Snowfield
Rainier, Muir
snowfield
On Sunday, September 16th at 6:00
p.m., Chris Stanko and Alex Mondau
contacted a Park Ranger at Paradise
and reported that their partner Phil
Michael was overdue. The pair had
just returned from Camp Muir earlier
0 1700
in the day. The party of three
Avalance, Poor Position, Failure to Test2009
Conditions, Relying
Alaska, on Others,
Delta Range,Alaska,
Castner Delta Range, Castner Glac
Glacier
In the early afternoon on March 1, a
group of 17 people (15 class
members, co-leader Ty Humphrey,
and I) arrived on skis and snowshoes
in an area with ice cliffs for practicing
crevasse rescue in the lower section
of the Castner Glacier. I arrived first
0 1701
and found a suitable ice cliff. This ice
Avalance, Poor Position, New Hampshire, 2009
MountNewWashington, Huntington
Hampshire, MountRavine
Washington,
Huntington Ravine
During the afternoon of March 30, two
climbers (ages unknown) emerged
from North Gully onto the more open
slopes above the gully. After simul-
climbing the gully’s midsection, they
unroped and began to climb the snow
0 1702
up toward Ball Crag. They identified
Avalanche, Climbing Alone, Poor Position,
2009New Hampshire, Mount Mount
New Hampshire, Washington, Huntington Ravine, Ode
Washington,
Huntington Ravine, Odell Gully
At 9:20 p.m. on January 18 the USFS
Snow Rangers were informed that a
solo climber (39-male) from Lewiston,
ME, was overdue from his climb in
Huntington Ravine. He had signed
into the winter climbers’ register at
0 1703
Pinkham Notch with a plan of climbing
Avalanche, Colorado, Little Bear Peak, 2009
Standard Hourglass
Colorado,Route
Little Bear Peak, Standard
Hourglass Route
On January 10 around 1100, a male
(22) and his sister (20) were climbing
Little Bear Peak via the Standard
West Ridge Hourglass Route.
Weather conditions for several days
had been mostly cloudy to partly
0 1704
cloudy, snowing (19-36 inches), and
Exposure (Took Gloves Off) — Frostbite, 2009
Alaska,Alaska,
Mount McKinley, West Buttress
Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
KAJ Denali 2008 (from Croatia)
expedition members Jadranko
Mlinaric (40) and Kristina Marjanovic
made a summit attempt on June 27th,
turning around at Denali Pass.
Mlinaric stated that he removed his
0 1705
gloves for no more than ten minutes.
 Fall into Bergschrund, Frostbite, Weather,
2009Alaska,Alaska,
Mount Mckinley, West Buttress
Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
On the morning of June 16th, climbers
woke to clear skies and calm winds at
17,200-foot high camp on the West
Buttress. At 0800 as many a three
private parties and two guided groups
headed out of camp for the summit. At
0 1706
1300 the weather took a quick turn
Fall on Ice, Rope Severed on Jagged Rocks,
2009 Pensylvania, Toby Creek,
Pennsylvania, TobyButtermilk Falls
Creek, Buttermilk
Falls
Police in Luzerne County say Luke
Wolfgang (age not reported) fell 30-40
feet when his rope was cut on jagged
rocks as he tried to climb the
Buttermilk Falls area of Toby Creek.
Rescuers say the New Hope man was
0 1707
climbing with friends yesterday
Fall on Rock — Misjudged Pendulum, California
2009 Yosemitewhen
California,
morning Valley,
theElaccident
Yosemite Capitan
Valley,occurred.
El
Capitan
They say he was taken to a Scranton
At 0545 on July 18, Eric Ruderman
(32) and Skiy DeTray (31) started a
one- day ascent of the Nose on El
Capitan (31 pitches, VI5.9 C1, per
SuperTopo). They were a strong team
with several years of experience and
0 1708
over 20 walls between them and they
Fall on Rock — Rappel Error (Uneven Ropes),
2009 SouthFALL Dakota,
ON ROCKNeedles, Moonlight
– RAPPEL Ridge
ERROR
(UNEVEN ROPES)

South Dakota, Needles, Moonlight

Ridge

Another climbing legend passed on

today. On June 24, Paul Duval (71)
0 1709
died of injuries sustained when he
Fall on Rock — Rappel Error, Inadequate
2009
Protection — Old off
Kentucky,
rappelled Anchor
Red Webbing
theRiver
end of an Parted,
Gorge, Inadequate Equipme
Emerald
un-
City
On November 4, the bodies of
Benjamin Strohmeier (18) and Laura
Fletcher (18) were found near the
base of a climbing route in an area of
USDA Forest Service land, known in
the climbing community as “Emerald
0 1710
City”. They were found fifty feet below
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Pennsylvania,
2009 Tohickon Valley Tohickon
Pennsylvania, Park Valley Park
Joseph McDevitt (26) was in serious
condition yesterday after plunging at
least 70 feet to the ground in a fall off
a cliff in Bucks County. He was
airlifted and treated in the intensive
care unit at St. Luke’s Hospital near
Bethlehem, officials said.
0 1712
Analysis
 Fall on Rock, Colorado, Black Canyon of2009
the Gunnison
Colorado,National Park,
Black StonedofOven
Canyon the
Gunnison National Park, Stoned Oven
On Monday, October 20, Irishman
Michael Walsh (30) and his two
partners were attempting the Stoned
Oven Route (5.11d), a 13 pitch,
Grade Vrock climb located on the
North Chasm View Wall. Around
0 1713
11:00 a.m., Walsh was approximately
Fall on Rock, Failure of Nut New Hampshire,
2009 Cathedral Ledge
In August, Christopher Townsend
(27), an experienced climber from
Cambridge, Massachusetts, took a
20-foot fall that left him hanging
unconscious on his rope for about two
minutes. He walked out of the hospital
later in the day “courtesy of his
helmet.”
0 1714
(Editor’s Note: No other rock climbing
Fall on Rock, Fatigued, Placed no Protection,
2009 "Too Relaxed"
Arizona,
incidents Arizona,
Cochise
were Cochise
by Stronghold
Stronghold
reported the
Ever since my fall I
Mountain Rescue Service, have been reliving
located in
the
North Conway. Rick Wilcox, the also
events of that day, but I have
been psychoanalyzing why I fell. I can
still vividly see the fall. I have also
pondered, for weeks now, whether or
not I should post my “accident”. You
see, for me the only justification for
0 1715
bringing this to light is the hope that
Fall on Rock, Handhold Dislodged - Fall2009
on Rock,California,
California,Sierra
Sierra Nevada,
Nevada, Palisades
Palisades Region
Region
At 0700 on July 13, J.C. (47) and B.Y.
(47) set out from camp at 10,000 feet
at Brainard Lake on the South Fork of
Big Pine Creek intending to climb the
Northwest Ridge (5.7) on The Thumb.
The previous day’s weather included
0 1716
afternoon and evening thunderstorms.
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Poor
2009Communication,
California,Inadequate
YosemiteMedical
Valley, Training,
El California, Yosm
Capitan
At 0330 on May 15, Matt Christensen
(26) and Tony McClane (20) climbed
fixed lines to Sickle Ledge on El
Capitan and started up pitch 5 of the
Nose (31 pitches, VI 5.9 Cl per Super
Topo). They traveled light, with one
0 1717
60-m rope, hoping to summit that
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, 2009 New POOR COMMUNICATION,
Hampshire, INADEQUATE MEDIC
Mount Washington,
Huntington Ravine
On January 26, a novice climber (44)
and his partner started up Odell Gully
around 3:00 p.m. on Saturday
afternoon. After completing the main
ice climbing section, they traversed to
the east to begin their descent.
0 1718
Neither had headlamps with them and
 mountains and climbing safely. By
adopting skills and gaining the
appropriate knowledge, training, and
experience, climbers can reduce risks
to acceptable limits. More rescues,
Fall on Rock, Inappropriate Call to 911,2009
North Carolina, Rumbling Bald, Drivin and Cryin
especially unnecessary ones
performed by local and government
agencies, have the potential to impact
the climbing community negatively.
(Source: Will Byrum from a posting on
carolinaclimbers.org, May 22, and
Aram Attarian)
0 1719
Fall on Rock, Placed No Protection, Exceeding
2009 Abilities Colorado,
On October Eldorado
8, Kevin (51),Canyon
an State Park, Grandmo
experienced climber, and his wife
started the first pitch of
Grandmother’s Challenge (5.10c), a
two-pitch climb on Redgarden Wall.
The first pitch is rated 5.8. Kevin was
approximately 30 feet above the
ground with no protection in place and
0 1720
slipped, landing feet first on a large
Fall on Rock, Poor Practice — Hooked 2009
Fingers Through BoltRed
Colorado, Ring,Rock
Colorado,
CanyonRedOpen
Rock Canyon Open Spa
Space, Rethinking the Ethics
Rethinking the Ethics (5.10a) is a 45-
foot, four-bolt sport climb located on
the Ripple Wall. The climb culminates
at a two-bolt anchor beneath the top
of an arch. In late September, a male
climber was leading this route and
0 1721
upon reaching the two-bolt anchor,
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, California,
2009 Idyllwild, Suicide
California, RockSuicide Rock
Idyllwild,
On September 5, Trevor Mathews
(21), suffered significant head trauma
and remains in intensive care. His
friend and climbing partner, Claire
McKay (22), was treated and released
but will undergo facial reconstruction
surgery to treat a fractured
0 1723
cheekbone. She also broke her arm
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No2009
Helmet, California,
California,Yosemite
YosemiteValley,
Valley,Church
Church Bowl
Bowl
On August 31, Tomoki Shibata (22)
led Church Bowl Tree, a 5.10b crack,
belayed by Hiroki Kishi. Shibata left
his helmet at the base of the climb
because the route was only one pitch
long. From the ground up, in this
0 1724
order, he placed a camming device,
Fall on Rock, Protetion Pulled out, Colorado,
2009 Eldorado Canyon
Colorado, State Park,
Eldorado Bastille,
Canyon StateWerk Supp
Park, Bastille, Werk Supp
On July 14, Preston Brennan (47), an
experienced climber, and his partner
were climbing Werk Supp, a 5.9 route
located on the Bastille. Witnesses
noted that while on the first part of the
climb, Preston had placed two nuts
0 1725
and was working on the third for quite
 Fall on Rock, Unsafe Position, Fatigue, 2009
Alaska, Skagway, Black LakeBlack Lake
Alaska, Skagway,
On June 14, Karl (28) was climbing an
unnamed, single-pitch sport route
rated at 5.9 near Skagway. Just below
the top of the route, he had clipped
into the final bolt and was preparing to
climb through the crux, where the final
bolt was just to the right and above
0 1726
the climber, while the second-last bolt
Fall on Snow — Loss of Control on Voluntary
2009 Glissade, New Hampshire,
New Hampshire, MountMount Washington, Lion's Head
Washington,
Lion's Head Winter route
On March 3, a group of mountaineers
(ages unknown) were glissading
Lion’s Head Winter Route when one
of them lost control and fell down
approximately 75-100 feet through the
trees to the bottom of the steep
0 1727
section of trail. Along the way, he hit
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, 2009
InadequateNew
Equipment — NoMount
Hampshire, Headlamps, New Hampshire, Mount
Washington,
Huntington Ravine
On January 25, a party of four was
ascending the Fan in Huntington
Ravine when one of them (38) fell and
slid into two other people in his party,
causing them to fall as well. One of
three involved in the fall was unable to
0 1728
self-arrest on the icy surface and
Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped, Oregon, 2009MountOregon,
Hood, Southside
Mount Hood, Southside
On July 5, Erik Heerlein (35), a
climber from South Carolina, fell
approximately 200 feet while
descending the Mazama Chute
variation (10,500-foot elevation) of the
Southside Route. His unroped team
members included an M.D. and a
0 1729
paramedic. They were able to report
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing
2009 Alone, Exceeding
Oregon, MountAbilities, Oregon, Mount Hood, Southsid
Hood, Southside
On October 19, Chris Biddle (30), a
novice climber, lost his footing at
10,900-foot elevation while
descending the Southside Route.
Unable to self-arrest he slid about 300
feet. A nearby climber who witnessed
the fall reported his accident via cell
0 1730
phone. The witness and another
Fall or Slip on Ice, Inadequate Protection,
2009
Colorado, Rocky Mountain
Colorado, National Park,
Rocky Mountain The Squid
National
Park, The Squid
On Sunday March 2, a female climber
(32) and her partners were climbing
the Squid (WI5) located above
Emerald Lake and considered by
many to be the most spectacular
single ice pitch in Colorado. While
0 1731
“running it out” to the top of the route
 Fall or Slip on Rock, Climbing Alone, Colorado,
2009 Eldorado
Colorado,Canyon StateCanyon
Eldorado Park, Bastille,
State Werk Supp
Park, Bastille, Werk Supp
Michael Hankins (47), an experienced
and highly regarded climber from
Oklahoma set out to solo Werk Supp
(5.9) on July 22. He fell when he was
50 feet into the climb. Hankins was
airlifted to St. Anthony Central
0 1732
Hospital in Denver. He suffered
Fall or Slip on Rock, Failure to Follow Route,
2009 Fatigue,
NorthDarkness,
Carolina,North Carolina,
Linville GorgeLinville Gorge Wilderne
Wilderness, Shortoff Mountain,
Paradise Alley
On January 12, John Matthew (40)
and Nathan Z. (30) both moderately
experienced climbers, set off to climb
Maginot Line (5.7) and Paradise Alley
(5.8) on Shortoff Mountain, located at
0 1733
the south end of the Linville Gorge
Fall or Slip on Rock, Inadequate Belay,2009
Inexperienced,
NorthNorth Carolina,
Carolina, Looking
Looking Glass
Glass Rock Rock
On May 8, a male climber (31) and his
female partner were attempting an
unknown rock climb when he fell and
broke his ankle. It was broken on both
sides and will need surgery, plates,
screws, and pins, to put it back
together. Other climbers in the area
0 1734
assisted him to the trailhead.
Fall or Slip on Rock, Miscommunication, 2009
Colorado, EldoradoEldorado
Colorado, Canyon State Park,State
Canyon Wind Tower
Park, Wind Tower
On May 4, Lon Abbott (45) and Avery
McGill (25) were climbing Recon (5.6)
on the Wind Tower. Both men were
experienced climbers and wearing
helmets. They had been leading, then
rappelling all day. During the
0 1735
afternoon Abbott fell from the anchors
Fall or Slip on Rock, Pulled Loose Rock2009
Off — Falling
DuringRock Hit Climbing
the afternoon onPartner
May 27,Colorado,
two Eldorado Ca
experienced climbers, Chris Lee (38)
and Chris Klinga (25), were
attempting Doub-Griffith, a 5.11c 3-
pitch traditional route that starts from
a small ledge 150 feet above the base
of Redgarden Wall. As Lee was
climbing, he inadvertently pulled a
0 1736
table-size flake free from the wall. The
Falling Rock, Weather, Late Start, Oregon,
2009MountOregon,
Hood, Cooper
MountSpur
Hood, Cooper Spur
On July 27, Dr. Gary Lee (55), an
experienced climber, and his son
Devin (20) finished the ascent of the
Sunshine route in the early afternoon.
They descended by the Cooper Spur
route, stopping at a snowfield at the
10,000- foot level to unrope and don
0 1737
crampons. Believing that the worst
 Fatigue, Fall on Rock, Exceeding Abilities,
2009NorthNorth
Carolina, Hanging
Carolina, Rock State
Hanging Rock Park — Moores Wall, Do
State
Park – Moores Wall, Dolphin Head
On May 25, Chris Hagwood (42) and
Mark Ericson (52), experienced
climbers, started Dolphin Head (5.6),
a popular rock climb located on
Moores’ Central Wall, and shortly
went off-route. Before he knew it,
0 1739
Chris was in over his head. Instead of
Frostbite—Dehyrated, Failure to Pay Attention
2009 toAlaska,
WarningMount
Signs, McKinley,
Alaska Mount WestMcKinley West Buttress
Buttress
Hervé Laurence (40) was a member
of a party of eight French climbers
who were planning to ascend via the
West Buttress. This group departed
on May 6 and purportedly arrived at
the 14,200-foot camp on May 12.
0 1740
Following a brief stay for
HAPE, Allowed to Descend Alone, Possible2009 CO Poisioning,
Alaska, MountAlaska,Mount
McKinley,McKinley,
West West Buttress
Buttress
The 2008 Ulsam McKinley Expedition,
led by Jeong Sang Kim (34) flew onto
the glacier on May 1 and climbed to
the 14,200-foot camp in eight days.
The expedition stayed at the camp
waiting for better weather to ascend to
0 1741
the 17,200-foot high camp, and during
Inadequate Protection — Nut Pulled Out, 2009
Fall on Rock,
North No Hard Hat,
Carolina, North Glass
Looking Carolina, Looking Glass Rock
Rock,
Second Coming
On July 28, at 9:00 p.m. two climbers
called 911 from the base of Second
Coming, a well-known 5.7 two pitch
traditional climb located on the South-
side of Looking Glass Rock.
Jane Doe was belayingjohn Doe (31)
0 1742
on the first pitch of Second Coming.
Lost in the Dark, California, Yosemite, 2009
Half Dome C alifornia,
John Yosemite,
was leading the Half
first Dome
pitch and
In late September, Aloysius
was about 100 feet off the ground “Apple”at
Leap (25) and I (Chris Tomasetti, 23)
made our first trip to Yosemite for a
week and a half of climbing. We’d
been climbing pretty intensively for 3-
4 years at a good standard, though no
big walls. We had the idea we were
1 1743
going to do the Nose and the Regular
Missing Climbers — Assumed Fatal, Inadequate
2009 Equipment
Alaska, Mt.—McKinley,
Sleeping Bags andRidge
Cassin Fuel, Alaska, Mt. McK
Tatsuro Yamada (27) and Yuto Inoue
(24,) both from Japan, were expected
to return from a climb of the Cassin
Ridge on May 22. With no sign of the
men, the National Park Service began
planning the search on May 23,
although cloudy and windy weather
0 1744
initially kept all aircraft on standby.
 Slip on Rock — Failure to Test Holds, Cam
2009Pulled out Placed
North Inadequate
Carolina, JacksonProtection,
County, Exceeding Abilities,
Gray's Ridge
Chris Wilcox (35) and Scott Philyaw
(52), both experienced climbers, had
busy home and work lives that
prevented them from getting out more
than once a month at best, with rather
longer periods of inactivity during
0 1745
winter ski season and summer rains.
Stranded — Inability to Remove Anatomical
2009 Protection, California,
California, Yosemite
Yosemite Valley,Valley, Bishops Terrace
Bishops
Terrace
On April 12, Tim Barthel (51), Jon
Becker (50), Brant Herrett (55), and I,
Steve Latif (46), decided to climb
Bishops Terrace, a one-pitch 5.8 at
the Church Bowl. At 1600 I started
leading with Brant belaying. This was
0 1746
my first time on the route and about
Stranded — Yogi-Phobia, Unfamiliar With
2009Equipment, California,
California, Yosemite
Yosemite, Half, Dome
Half Dome
Janet (32) spent May 9 hanging out at
the base of Half Dome while her
friends made an ascent of the Regular
NW Face route. They had camped
there the night before and had
suspended their food from a tree to
keep it from animals. At mid-day a
0 1747
bear wandered into camp and began
Stranded, Darkness, Inadequate Equipment
2009— NoColorado,
Headlamp,Eldorado
Inadequate Clothing,
Canyon Exceeding Abilities, C
State
Park, Yellow Spur
Around 2:00 p.m. on the afternoon of
March 9, I (Nandu Thibeault, 23) and
my partner (19) started on Yellow
Spur, a seven-pitch, 5.9-rock climb on
Redgarden Wall. This was the second
multi-pitch traditional climb I’ve done,
0 1748
so my rope management and racking
Sudden Death on Summit — Near Denali 2009
Pas, Alaska,
Alaska,Mount McKinley,
Mount West
McKinley, Buttress
West
Buttress
At 2200 on July 7, Ranger John
Loomis received a call on the
emergency call out phone from ranger
Kevin Wright at the 14,200-foot camp.
Wright reported that he had received
FRS radio transmissions from Peter
0 1749
Anderson (Rainier Mountaineering
Sudden Death on Summit, Alaska, Mount 2009
McKinley, WestMount
Alaska, Buttress
McKinley, West
Buttress
This Alpine Ascents International
climbing expedition flew into the base
camp of Mount McKinley on June
20th with two guides and six clients,
one of whom was James P. Nasti
(51), a first time client of that
0 1750
company. The two guides were
 Fall from a Snow-Covered Boulder, Washington,
2009 North Cascades,
Washington, National
North Park, Eldorado
Cascades NationalPeak
Park, Eldorado Peak
On July 18th, a party of four
mountaineers were on approach to
Eldorado Peak on the lower snow
slopes of the Eldorado Glacier. While
pausing on the upper side of a large
rock outcrop, three of the men noticed
0 1751
that the fourth, Bill Stikker (57) had
Fall into Crevasse, Washington, Mount 2009
Rainier, Enroute to Wilson
Washington, Headwall
Mount Rainier, enroute
to Wilson Headwall
On the morning of May 4th, three
climbers left Camp Muir, following a
gentle downhill traverse to reach the
base of the Wilson Headwall. About
ten minutes out from the camp, they
stopped to scout and evaluate the
1 1752
need for roping up prior to entering a
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay — Improper
2009 Use FALL
of Belay
ONDevice
ROCK, Wyoming, Sinks Canyon, Killer Cave, E
INADEQUATE
BELAY - IMPROPER USE OF BELAY
DEVICE

Wyoming, Sinks Canyon, Killer Cave,

Elmo's Fish

At 2:55 P.M. on November 23, Kelly

0 1753
Rush (29) fell from Elmo’s Fish, a
Fall on Rock — Scrambling with Full Pack,
2009Weather andinFall
the off
Washington,
climb Log,
North
Killer Stream Crossing,
Cascades
Cave area Washington, Nor
ofNational
Sink’s
Perk, Inspiration Traverse
Canyon. She was on lead at the time
On July 26, Cathleen (50) and Bob
Terczak (50’s) were on day four of an
alpine traverse across the southern
section of the park known as the
Inspiration Traverse. This traverse
involves route-finding from heavily
0 1756
wooded valley floors to subalpine
Fall on Rock, Ascenders Attached Incorrectly
2009 — Rope
Utah,Severed, Utah, Zion
Zion National Park,National Park, Touchstone Wa
Touchstone
Wall
Shortly after 2:00 p.m. on October
17th, James Welton (34), Matt Tuttle,
and I started up Touchstone Wall (III
5.9+ C2 1,000 feet). Though we
considered trying to climb the route in
a day, we decided to spend one night
0 1757
on the wall. We reasoned that this
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone, Probable2009
Unique Weather
Wyoming, Event,
GrandWyoming, Grand Teton
Teton National National Park, G
Park,
Grand Teton, Lower Exum
On July 19, George Gardner (58) fell
to his death while solo climbing the
Lower Exum Ridge of the Grand
Teton. Gardner and other Exum
Guides were guiding youths from
Wilderness Ventures, intending to
0 1758
climb the
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay — Unfamiliar
2009 with Belay
Utah, Device,
Maple Utah, Maple
Canyon, Canyon,
Minimum CragMinimum Crag
On July 13, Paul R. (47) fell 50 to 60
feet while climbing “49” at the
Minimum Crag. His belayer was using
an Edelrid Eddy. He was using a
9.2mm rope, which falls within the
manufacturers recommended rope
diameters. The belayer claims that the
0 1759
climber was clipping a draw when he
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inadequate
2009 Protection,
Utah, IndianExceed Abilities,
Creek, Cat WallNo Hard Hat, Utah, Indian C
On May 17, a man and his wife and
their two friends (ages unknown) were
climbing Johnny Cat (5.12+). The man
was going for the final moves, just
below the anchor, when he fell. His
last piece failed with the force, and
due to his sparse protection, allowed
0 1760
him to deck. He hit head first, no
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Wisconsin,
2009 Devil's Lake State
Wisconsin, Park
Devil's Lake State Park
In late May, a rock climber was
rescued after falling about 40 feet.
The 20-year-old man was taken by
helicopter to University Hospital in
Madison after he was stabilized by
first-responders from Baraboo.
Authorities say the man and his
0 1761
girlfriend were climbing in an area
Fall on Rock, Utah, Zion National Park,2009
Moonlight Buttress
Utah,
above Zion National
a trail MondayPark, Moonlight
evening when
Buttress
he fell and suffered broken bones and
Early on the afternoon of March 24th,
a climber (40) who was following the
first pitch of the Moonlight Buttress
took an unexpectedly long pendulum
swing, struck the rock wall, and
sustained an incapacitating hip injury.
0 1762
One of his partners descended and
Fall on Snow , Climbing Alone, Washington,
2009 Mount Adams
Washington, Mount Adams
On October 18, Derek Mamoyac (27)
fell as he was descending after
reaching Piker’s Peak at 11,657 feet,
below the mountain’s summit. He
stepped in some snow he thought
was solid, but it gave way.
Mamoyac started up the 12,277-foot
0 1764
mountain Sunday for a one-day climb.
Fall on Snow — Unable to Kick Steps, Unable
2009 to Wyoming,
Self-Arrest
Family (Soft/Slushy
Grand
members TetonSnow),
reported himFatigue,
National Park,Wyoming, Gra
missing
Teewinot
Monday when he failed to show up for
On June 24 at 1000,I received a cell
phone report from Exum Mountain
Guide Christian Santelices, that a
female (16) in a party of three had
fallen on snow for about 100 meters
and was injured. He told me that she
0 1765
had hip, ankle and elbow pain and
 the weather permitted the observation
flight around mid-day, during which
the observers located the climber on
the summit. The helicopter was found
to be too heavy to take on another
Improper passenger
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, 2009 at 14,000+
Ice Ax Technique,
Wyoming, Grand Tetonfeet,
Wyoming, so thePark,
Grand
National Teton National Park
pilot returned
Gilkey Tower to the Kautz Heli-base
to
Ondrop off one
August of the
9 about rangers.
1300, ChrisDuring
the observation flight,
Pazder (56) fell to his deaththe pilot
while
exceeded the aircraft’s capabilities,
attempting to traverse from the South
causing
Teton to itCloudveil
to overheat.Dome. ThePazder
climberwas
eventually
in a climbingtired
teamof waiting for the
of four who were
helicopter
traversing to return andonskied
a snowfield down to
the south
0 1766 Paradise. There were(about
no injuries or
side of Gilkey Tower 12,320
Overdue — Climbing Alone, Fall on Snow,
2009Wyoming, Granddue
Wyoming,
accidents Teton
Grand National
Teton
to the Park, Avalanche
National
overheating Park,
of Canyon
Avalanche Canyon
the aircraft. Said Gottlieb, who was
On August
also 5, Patty
IC for the second Felder contacted
incident: “It is
parkresponsibility
our dispatch to report that her
to respond to
husband,for
requests Richard Felderproactively;
assistance (58), was a
overdue response
delayed from a descent of Avalanche
costs lives here.”
Canyon. They
(Source: had camped
Patti Wold, Incidenttogether
in the SouthOfficer)
Information Fork of Cascade Canyon
0 1767
the previous
(Editor's Note: evening,
While thisandisinnotthe
Party Separated on Summit — Whiteout, 2009
Washington, Mount Rainier
counted as an accident, it illustrates a
potential for a problem when cell
phones are used and helicopters are
brought into play. It is also interesting
to note that the climber who
apparently was not lost in the whiteout
decided to ski to the base without his
0 1768 partner.)
Rappel Error — Fall to Ground, Unfamiliar
2009with Equipment, Wyoming
Wyoming, Grand Grand
Teton Teton National
National Park, Park, Grand
Grand Teton
Around 1330 on August 7, Merry
Carney (47) was unable to maintain
her rappel, zipping down the rope
approximately 50 feet to the ground.
She had successfully climbed the
Grand Teton by the Upper Exum
0 1769
Ridge with her husband, Pete, arriving
Stranded — Unable to Free Rappel Rope,2009
Weather, Hypothermia,
Wyoming, Wyoming
Devil's Tower Devil's Tower
On the evening of May 23 rd, the park
received a call from two stranded
climbers (ages unknown) who were
on the southwest face of the tower,
asking for help. Aaron Turner and
Travis Hubble were stranded one
pitch down on the southwest rappel
1 1770
route, unable to pull their ropes from
Weather — Stranded, Non-climbing, Washington,
2009 Mount Rainier
Washington, Mount Rainier
Two climbers, Mrs. Mariana Burceag
and Mr. Daniel Vlad (ages unknown),
suffering from hypothermia and
frostbite, were airlifted from Camp
Muir on Mount Rainier at 6:15 a.m. on
June 18 by a Chinook helicopter.
They were taken to Madigan Hospital
1 1771
and from there by ground
 "Interfering with Agency Function" — Unnecessary
2010 Helicopter
Alaska, Mount Evacuation,
McKinley,Alaska,
West Mount McKinley, We
Buttress
On June 1st, a female Lithuanian
climber (47) was air evacuated from
the 14,200-foot camp on Denali’s
West Buttress. NPS rangers made
numerous attempts to help her
descend under her own power, but
0 1772
she refused all options except for air
Avalanche, California, Yosemite National
2010Park, Half Dome Yosemite National Park,
California,
Half Dome
On Sunday, March 15, an
experienced South Korean mountain
climber Jun Ho Wang (38) was on his
way down for more supplies to
support his team’s winter attempt on
Half Dome when he was swept more
0 1773
than 100 meters down a rocky
Avalanche, Fall on Snow — Ski Mountaineering,
2010 Ignored Mount
Alaska, Recent Avalanche
McKinley, Activity,
West Misjudged Snowpac
Buttress, Rescue Gully
On June 25, a climber (34) set out
from 14,200-foot camp with her three
teammates, intending to ski a line
above 17,200-foot camp known as
“Thunderbird”. As the team was
climbing on the ridge between the
0 1774
fixed lines at 16,200-feet and the
Climbing Alone, Unroped, Inadequate Food
2010 and Equipment, Inexperience,
Alaska, Mount McKinley,Alaska,
West Mount McKinley, Wes
Buttress
On May 21, Gerald Myers (41), a
member of a private expedition of
four, was reported as overdue on a
solo summit attempt of Mount
McKinley from the 14,200-foot camp.
Without prior consultation with his
0 1775
partners and unbeknown to them, he
Darkness - Stranded, California, Pinnacles
2010National Monument,
California, Condor Crag
Pinnacles National
Monument, Condor Crag
On the evening of November 15th,
park staff assisted two climbers down
from a climbing route after they had
become stranded due to nightfall.
Both climbers were uninjured.
The climbers were able to place a
1 1776
cellphone call to a friend around 6:00
Fall on Ice — Placed No Protection, Inexperience,
2010 Alberta,
Alberta,
p.m. Canadian
Canadian
after Rockies,
Rockies,
they could Waterton
climbNational Park
Waterton
no longer
National Park
in darkness. They were near the top
On January 1, a group of climbers
met at a popular ice climbing area in
Waterton National Park. Upon arriving
at the base of the climbs, it was
discovered that another party had
begun up the easier of the climbs,
0 1777
French Kiss. Of the group, only one
 Fall on Ice, Solo Climbing, British Columbia,
2010 Canadian
BritishRockies, Haffner
Columbia, Creek Rockies,
Canadian
Haffner Creek
On December 18, CC was solo ice
climbing in Haffner Creek in Kootenay
National Park when he fell and
sustained injuries to his shoulder and
collarbone. A nearby UIAGM
Mountain guide came to his
0 1778
assistance and called for help on his
Fall on Rock (2), No Hard Hat, California,
2010
JoshuaCalifornia,
Tree National Park,Tree
Joshua Hidden Valley Park,
National
Hidden Valley
About 4:00 p.m. on March 15, Curtis
“Woody” Stark (67) and Alfred Kuok
(44) were climbing in an area near the
Hidden Valley nature trail. The trail is
a popular destination for both day
hikers and rock climbers. Stark was
0 1779
the lead climber on the Great Burrito
Fall on Rock — Belay Failure, No Stopper2010Knot, California,
Distraction, Yosemite
California,Valley,
Yosemite
El Valley, El Capitan
Capitan
On October 8, Nicolas Lebaut (29)
and Davina Borrow-Jones (32) were
climbing at the base of the Southwest
Face of El Capitan. Nicolas decided to
lead Little John Left, a short, one-
pitch, 5.8 route leading up and right to
0 1780
fixed rappel anchors. Davina did not
Fall on Rock — Foothold Broke Off, Off 2010
Route, Placed NoCanadian
Alberta, Protection,Rockies,
Alberta, Canadian
PhantomRockies, Phanto
Tower
On April 11, a party of three were
going to attempt the South Face of
the Phantom Tower, a 5.8 gear route
in the Ghost River. The leader (20)
started up what he thought was the
beginning pitch, but he was about
0 1781
20m too far to the right. He ascended
Fall on Rock — Haste, Inadequate Protection,
2010 California, Yosemite
California, Valley,
Yosemite Middle
Valley, Cathedral Rock
Middle
Cathedral Rock
On October 3, Jake Martin (29) and I
(30) decided to climb Central Pillar of
Frenzy (five pitches, 5.9) on Middle
Cathedral Rock, something moderate
and with a close approach that I had
climbed a few times in the past. We
0 1783
climbed the first three pitches pretty
Fall on Rock — Off Route, Inadequate Protection,
2010 No Helmet,Mono
California, California, Mono
County, InyoCounty, Inyo National Fo
National Forest, Third Pillar of Dana
On August 30 Jeff Maurer (47) and
Jo-Lynne DeNapoli (36) were
planning on climbing the Regular
Route of the Third Pillar of Mount
Dana (Grade III 5.10b, six pitches).
The climb is approached from Tioga
0 1784
Road just east of Yosemite National
 Fall on Rock — Protection Pulled, Alberta,
2010Kananaskis Country,
Alberta, Mount Country,
Kananaskis Indefatigable
Mount
Indefatigable
On July 1, KT and MH were climbing
the rock route Joy (5.5, 10 pitches) on
Mount Indefatigable. KT was leading
and built an anchor and was ready to
belay MH. KT tested the anchor,
which pulled out, then KT cartwheeled
0 1785
off the ledge and the back-up point
Fall on Rock — Short Fixing without a 2010
Self-Belay, InadequateYosemite
California, ProtectionValley,
— Failure
El to Test Aid Placemen
Capitan.
On June 26, Degan (38) and Beth
(32) were attempting a one-day climb
of the Nose of El Capitan (Grade VI
5.9 C2). They had both climbed the
Nose before and had extensive
experience on Yosemite’s big walls.
0 1786
They carried one 60-meter rope.
Fall on Rock — Slack in Rope while Simul-Climbing,
2010 California,
California, Yosemite
Yosemite National
National Park, Commitment
Park,
Commitment
On June 17, Floyd (47), an
experienced climber, was with two
partners, belaying them from above.
They were simul-climbing and slack
developed between them. One fell
some distance, hitting a tree. He
0 1787
fractured his heel bone. (Source: John
Fall on Rock, Gear Sling Caught on Cam2010
During Fall — Strangulating
California, Climber,
Kings Canyon California, Kings Canyon
National
Park, Obelisk
My name is Patrick Callery. Our friend
David Shirley and I were climbing with
Ishun Chan on the South Face route
of the Obelisk when she was tragically
killed on November 8. This report of
the accident is provided with the
0 1788
hopeful intent to provide some
Fall on Rock, Heavy Packs, Unroped, Alberta,
2010 Canadian
Alberta,Rockies,
CanadianMount Neptuak
Rockies, Mount
Neptuak
On August 28, a party of seven set
out on a club outing to traverse some
of the ten peaks from west to east in
the Valley of the Ten Peaks, Banff
National Park. They had very large
packs with bivouac and climbing gear.
0 1789
When nearing the summit of the first
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Alberta,
2010
Kananaskis Country,
Alberta, Grassi Lakes
Kananaskis Country, Grassi
Lakes
On July 25, two climbers were
ascending a bolted route on the White
Imperialist wall at Grassi Lakes. The
lead climber fell from above the fourth
bolt. The belay was using an ATC
belay device but was unable to hold
0 1790
the leader fall as the rope burned her
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate Communication,2010Inadequate Belay16,
On June – Belayer
PH wasNot Ready
sport Canada, Alberta, Canad
climbing
on the Wicked Gravity Wall at the
Back of the Lake climbing area at
Lake Louise, Banff National Park. He
had done several routes and was
climbing one last route to “cool down”
before dark after a long afternoon and
evening. After feeding the rope
0 1791
through the station, he neglected to
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection California,
2010 Yosemite
On JuneNational Park,
26, Holly Eland
(32) Capitan,
her The Nose
partner Jeff were climbing the first
pitch of The Nose when she took a
40-foot leader fall. She fractured her
elbow and had abrasions. She was
carried to the road and flown to the
hospital. (Source: John Dill, NPS
Ranger, Yosemite National Park)
0 1792
Analysis
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, No2010
Hard Hat,California,
CaliforniaTuolumne
Tuolumne Meadows,
Meadows,Cathedral Peak
Cathedral Peak
On July 1 Shannon (29) and Margie
(28) climbed part of Matthes Crest
and decided to finish the day with an
ascent of the Southeast Buttress of
Cathedral Peak (five pitches of 5.6).
This was their first day of climbing
0 1793
together, but both had climbed the
Fall on Rock, Off Route, Protection Pulled,
2010Alberta, Kananaskis
Alberta, Country,Country,
Kananaskis Mount Yamnuska
Mount
Yamnuska
On June 18, W and NB were climbing
Grillmair’s Chimney (5.6, 8 pitches) on
Mount Yamnuska. W was leading and
went off-route. NB lowered W on a
single piton, which pulled free. W fell
approximately eight metres, resulting
0 1794
in a compound fracture to the left
Fall on Rock, Placed No Protection British
2010Columbia, Bugaboos
On August Provincial
31st, Park,
a climber wasEastpost Spire
leading up a line on the NW side of
Eastpost when he slipped and fell
approximately 40 feet to the ledge
below. He had not placed any
protection. Injuries were assessed as
being a broken ankle, some
lacerations and potential concussion.
0 1795
Climbers at Applebee responded and
Fall on Rock, Rope Pulled Through Belay2010
Device,"Colorado,
Colorado, Clear
ClearCreek
CreekCanyon,
Canyon,Wall of the 90's
Wall
of the 90's
On March 10, I (36) had successfully
climbed the route Hot Stuff (5.10c).
My two partners and I were climbing
on a 70m rope, a standard length for
this route. I was being lowered when
the rope went through the belayer’s
0 1796
device resulting in my dropping about
 upon the injured climber prusiking up
the route with one leg. His climbing
partner was in shock and not doing
much, so I decided to take control of
the situation. I set up a rap-assisted
Fall on Rock, Unroped, Alberta, Canadian
2010
Rockies,
webMount
Alberta,
systemTemple
Canadian
[buddyRockies, MountI
rappel] while
Temple with a prusik backup and an
rapped
On September
overhead belay26, while With
backup. down- help
climbing
from the the
partysteep
abovegrey
us rock
that band on
also had
the “tourist route” on Mount
retreated due to the weather Temple,
Banff National
conditions, we Park, LR slipped
all worked and
down four
fell to the scree below seriously
rappels to the ground. Other climbers
breaking
on the groundhis leg. His partner
brought a sledran overdown
to
0 1797
the
lower him down to the snowfield.” a
trail to Moraine Lake to request
Fall on Rock, Weather, Inexperience, Alaska,
2010 Moose's Tooth, Ham and Eggs
Analysis
The climber commented that the
weather and inexperience contributed
to this incident. She also indicated
that she thought the ice was not worth
placing a screw, whereas her partner
did get multiple pieces of rock and ice
0 1798 pro in.
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, 2010
InadequateBritish
Equipment, Inexperience,
Columbia, Canadian British Columbia, Canadian
Rockies,
Castle Glacier
On Aug 3rd J.C. (22) and A.T. (24),
on a day off from their university
geology field trip, left their camp
located at the base of Castle Glacier
to ascend a nearby peak. They had to
cross a crevassed glacier and ascend
0 1799
a loose rock rib to the summit. They
Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped, Poor 2010
Position, Alaska,
Alaska,Mount
MountMcKinley,
McKinley,West WestButtress
Buttress
On May 26, a climber (33) was
descending un-roped with his team
members along the ridge below
Washburn’s Thumb at approximately
16,500 feet. At this location the terrain
forces the route off the ridge onto the
0 1800
North side of the buttress.
Fall on Snow/Ice, Alaska, Mount McKinley,
2010 WestAlaska,
Rib Mount McKinley, West Rib
On June 11, two climbers (36 and 39,
US) died of injuries sustained during a
fall while ascending the West Rib
route. Though the origin of the fall
was not witnessed, it is believed to
have begun at approximately 19,200
feet. The two climbers, who were
0 1801
roped together, were witnessed falling
Falling Rock — Fall on Rock, California,
2010
SequoiaCalifornia,
and Kings Sequoia
Canyon National
and Kings Parks, Mount Whitney
Canyon
National Parks, Mount Whitney
On October 3rd, two men were
climbing the East Buttress route (5.7)
on Mount Whitney. They were on a
ledge at 13,500 feet when a large
rock fell from above and hit one of
them on the helmet and upper back.
0 1802
The impact pushed him down to the
 Hotel (name of the helicopter)
descended to base camp to re-supply
and reassess its target. Two more
loads were created, both of which
were tied on to the end of 100-foot
Falling Rock — Pulled Off by Lead Climber,
2010 British Columbia,
British Columbia,Bugaboos
Bugaboos Provincial Park, Snowpatch Spi
Provincial
ropes. Papa Hotel ascended and
Park, Snowpatch Spire
lowered the first load directly to the
On August 15, a climber was climbing
climbers, who retrieved it without
the last pitch of Sunshine Crack (IV
problem. Papa Hotel then descended
5.10+) on Snowpatch Spire. The lead
to base camp and then returned to
climber pulled off a rock about twice
Talkeetna.
the size of his torso, which hit the
The climbers used the re-supply to
belayer on his lower back. The
0 1803 ascend the rest of the Cassin the next
climbers self-evacuated themselves to
False Alarm, Arizona, Grand Canyon 2010 day.
Arizona,TheyGrand
then safely
Canyon descended the
West
On theButtress
eveningroute and arrived
of September 24
23rd,
hours after reaching the
rangers began a search for hikers top of the
Cassin. Upon returning
who repeatedly activated totheir
baserented
camp,
the two were observed to
SPOT satellite-tracking device. The be in good
spirits—with
GEOS Emergency much energy
Response andCenter
no
apparent injuries or illnesses.
in Houston reported that someone in
Analysis
the group of four hikers—two men
0 1804 In this situation there appeared to be
and their two teenaged sons—had
HAPE, Failure to Turn Back, Alaska, Mount
2010 McKinley,
Alaska,West Mount
cultural/nationalButtress
McKinley,
differences West
over what
Buttress
“emergencies” constitute proper
On May 11,
grounds for aa rescue.
guided client
There(52)
alsofirst
started experiencing a productive
appeared to be different expectations
cough
for the and wet lungand
attainability sounds at 11,200
possibility of
feet. After a carry
rescue on Denali. Denali from 11,200 feet to
13,500 feet, he felt
Mountaineering a bit better
Rangers andto
attempt
wanted to
educate move up
climbers thatto rescues
the 14,200-foot
are
0 1805
camp with the
dangerous, rest ofand
difficult, thenot
team.
veryHe
Inadequate Food, No Working Stoves, Alaska,
2010 Mount McKinley, Cassin Ridge
commonly possible. However, many
climbers still assume that if things go
bad, they’ll be picked up by the
helicopter without any problem.
We hope that further education and
using this situation as a lesson will
prevent this from happening again to
0 1806 them and others.
Loose Rocks (Sedimentary) Came Off, 2010
Fall on Rock, Arizona,
Arizona, MountMount Lemmon,
Lemmon, Chimney Rock
Chimney
Rock
On April 151 (Tom Thrall, 58) was on
the fourth day of a week-long climbing
trip with my friend WG (69) on Mount
Lemmon near Tucson. It was very
windy that day, so we decided to stay
low on the mountain. Two other
0 1807
climbers we had met at the
Rappel Error — Faulty Use of Equipment,
2010
Stranded, Inexperience,
Alberta, Poor Route
Jasper National Research,
Park, Morrow Alberta, Jasper N
Peak
On July 18, MJ and AB left the
climbers parking lot at 0930 to climb
Morrow Peak via the guide’s route.
Weather was good but deteriorating
slowly by the afternoon with clouds,
light winds, and sprinkles. They
0 1808
ascended to the top just below the
 Rappel Error — Threaded Ropes Incorrectly,
2010 FallColorado,
on Rock, Colorado,
Garden of Garden of the Red
the Gods, Gods, Red Twin Spire
Twin Spire
During the afternoon on February 7, a
climber (21) fell over 50 feet
sustaining serious life-threatening
injuries. He had just climbed the
popular route Potholes, a moderate
5.8 route up the steep east face of
0 1809
Red Twin Spire in the Gateway area.
Rappelling Error — Uneven Ropes, Haste,2010Colorado, Ouray Ice
Colorado, Park,Ice
Ouray New Frontier
Park, New
Frontier
A climber rappelled off the end of his
rope on February 17. He explained
that he was in a rush. He set up an
anchor, clipped the rope to the middle
mark, threw the rope, started rapping,
and suddenly found himself falling/
0 1810
tumbling. He mistook the 15-foot mark
Rock Ledge Broke Off — Falling Rock2010 Hit Climbing Partner,
Alberta, Alberta, Kananaskis
Kananaskis Country, Mount Yamn
Country, Mount
Yamnuska
On May 22,JK and A were climbing
the Necromancer route (5.10a, eleven
pitches) on Mount Yamnuska. JK was
leading the second pitch and stepped
on a ledge to start a traverse when
the ledge broke off. A soccer ball-
0 1811
sized rock landed on As foot breaking
Rockfall from Party Above, Poor Position,
2010Alberta, Canadian
Alberta, Rockies,Rockies,
Canadian Abbott's Pass
Abbott's
Pass
On July 6, JPL was approaching
Abbot’s Pass hut from the Lake
O’Hara side when a party above
kicked off a very large loose rock
(approximately 1.5 metres by one
metre). The rock luckily split in half
0 1812
just before hitting JPL in the back and
Solo Scrambling, Stranded, Alberta, Canadian
2010 Rockies,
Alberta,Mount RundleRockies, Mount
Canadian
Rundle
On September 6, WM was hiking near
Banff and headed up the side of
Mount Rundle. He climbed up an old
streambed and eventually got to the
point where he then climbed up
difficult terrain that he could not climb
0 1813
down and he could go no further
Stranded Climber, Exceeding Abilities, 2010
Inadequate Clothing, Rocky
Colorado, Equipment and Food
Mountain and Climbing Unroped,
National
Park, Lumpy Ridge
A party of three (two males, early 20s,
and one female, 17) began soloing
Organ Pipes (5.6) on the Twin Owls
formation, Lumpy Ridge on January
16th late in the day. All three had little
or no climbing experience. They only
1 1814
had lightweight cotton clothes and no
 help. Parks Mountain Safety
specialists and an Alpine Helicopters
rescue pilot responded and the trio
were heli-slung off the mountain.
Analysis
Stranded — Underestimated Route Difficulty,
2010 Poor Route Research, Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount Ru
Groups should be prepared for self-
rescue, which should also include the
ability to retreat from a route.
Cellphones have made the decision to
call for help once over-committed that
much easier. (Source: Brad White,
Banff National Park Mountain Safety
0 1816 Specialist)
Stranded, Climbing Alone, Inadequate Equipment,
2010 Not on Any
California, Known Route,
Yosemite California,
National Park, Yosemite Nation
Marmot Dome
Park dispatch received a cellphone
call from climber Daniel Susman (20s)
around 10 a.m. on July 15th, in which
Susman reported that he’d become
ledged-out while scrambling on a
dome near Merced Lake and that he’d
0 1817
need assistance getting off the ledge.
Weather, Fall into Crevasse — Snow Bridge
2010 Failed, British
British Columbia,
Columbia, PurcellMountains,
Purcell Mountains, International M
International Mountain
I was guiding two clients on a ski
mountaineering traverse from the
Bugaboos to Rogers Pass with the
help of an assistant guide. On April
16, we got into camp in Malachite
Creek in the early evening. The next
0 1821
day we planned to ski from Malachite
Avalanche, Possible Poor Position Choice
2010
Montana,
OnGallatin
ThursdayRange, Hyalite
morning, Canyon
December
10th, at 0700 a group of 24 (12
teams) participants lined up in the
Grotto Falls parking lot for the 4th
annual Ice Breaker ice climbing
competition. Each team climbs as
many difficult routes as possible in a
day. Around 0845, competitors Guy
0 1822
Lacelle (54) and his partner Adam
Avalanche, Unable to Self-Arrest, New 2010
Hampshire,
New Mount Washington,
Hampshire, Tuckerman
Mount Ravine
Washington,
Tuckerman Ravine
On April 11, Daniel Zucker (46) from
Danville, VT, and Tim Finnocchio (31),
both athletic and experienced
mountaineers, were climbing the
steep snow route known as “Dodge’s
Drop” unroped, each with two
0 1823
technical ice axes and crampons.
Avalanche, Weather Wyoming, Cody, South
2010 Fork,ToMain Vein
begin, Keith (Spencer, 45) and I
drove up to Cody on Thursday, New
Year’s Day. Having recently soloed
Cho Oyu, the world’s sixth highest
peak, Keith was practically voluble.
He talked more in that seven-hour
drive than I’d heard him say in the last
decade. He was proud and pleased
0 1824
with his approach and performance
 Block of Ice Calved Off — Fall on Ice, 2010
Washington, North Cascades
Washington, NorthNational Park,National
Cascades Torment-Forbidden T
Park, Torment-Forbidden Traverse
On August 9, AMGA Instructor Pool
member, Certified Rock Guide and
former member of the AMGA Board of
Directors, Craig Luebben (49), died of
injuries sustained while attempting to
climb the Torment-Forbidden
0 1825
Traverse. Craig and Willie Benegas
Fall into Crevasse, Washington, Mount 2010
Rainier, Emmons Flats Mount Rainier, Emmons
Washington,
Flats
On the morning of July 1, Ranger
Sam Wick (27) climber Kevin Laney,
and I left Camp Schurman around
06:00 for a summit climb. Conditions
were excellent with good weather,
light winds, and firm snow.
0 1827
Weascended to approximately 12,000
Fall on Ice — Unable to Self-Arrest, New
2010
Hampshire,
New Huntington
Hampshire, Ravine, CentralRavine,
Huntington Gully
Central Gully
Approximately 15 minutes after being
notified of the incident described
above, Snow Rangers learned of a
second incident unfolding in
Huntington Ravine. A mountaineer
had fallen from somewhere between
0 1828
the top of the Fan and the ice bulge in
Fall on Ice, No Experience, New Hampshire,
2010 Cathedral Ledge
New Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge
In February, two inexperienced
climbers in their early 20s (never
climbed ice before) signed out boots,
crampons, and ice tools from the
demo people at the annual IMCS
Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival.
They bought some used ice screws
0 1829
and headed for Cathedral Ledge.
Fall on Rock — Inadequate Belay, Miscommunication,
2010 Wyoming,
Wyoming, Lander,
Lander, SinksSinks Canyon, Scud Wall
Canyon,
Scud Wall
Chelsea Jackson (20) was sport
climbing on the Scud Wall in Sinks
Canyon on June 21 when this incident
occurred. She had recently met her
climbing partners, Garrett Newcomer
and Christina Locastro, at her new job
0 1830
at Jackson Lake Lodge.
Fall on Rock — Rappel Error (No Knot2010in End ofNew
Rope), Distraction,
Mexico, Haste, Weather,
Los Alamos, Darkness, New Mex
White Rock
It must have been a nightmare.
Seriously, I don’t do that. I know
better. Way better. I’ve been climbing
for over 12 years without an accident
and just plain know better. Only
rookies do that. Apparently not so.
When I awoke in my bed on Friday
0 1831
morning (August 28), I was hoping it
was a nightmare, but when I looked
down at my left foot wrapped in a
 Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone, Nevada,2010
Red Rocks, Rainbow
Nevada, RedWall — The
Rocks, OriginalWall
Rainbow Route–
The Original Route
A climber, Josh, fell from the second
pitch (140 feet) to the base of the
climb. Three climbers were on the
route. Two were climbing together,
and the victim of the fall was alone
climbing by himself. One person was
0 1832
climbing from the 2nd to the 4th pitch.
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Colorado,
2010 Boulder Canyon,Boulder
Colorado, Avalon Crag
Canyon, Avalon
Crag
On the morning of Monday June 15, a
17-year-old male was climbing with
five others when he decided to free-
solo the lower part of the Avalon
climbing area, located on the South
side of Boulder Creek. This area
0 1833
hosts a number of moderate climbs
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Route, No
2010
Equipment, Inadequate
Wyoming, GrandClothing, Inexperience,
Teton National Park,Wyoming, Gran
Mount Teewinot
On September 22, about 1300, Jon
Winiasz (23) and Eliot Kalmbach (24)
were attempting to climb Mount
Teewinot via the East Face route.
They became severely off route and
found themselves in technical terrain.
0 1834
They were unroped and had no
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay — Lowering
2010 Error,
NewNew Hampshire,Rumney,
Hampshire, Rumney, Armed
Armed and
andDangerous
Dangerous
On Today (April 19) on the route
Armed and Dangerous, a seasoned
climber was lowered off the end of his
rope by another seasoned climber.
Both climbers had joked regarding the
length of the rope/climb prior to
0 1835
starting the route.
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay — Rope2010
Ran Through Device19,
On August and2009,
No Knot in Rope Ends Colorado, Bould
a 29-year-old
woman and her partner were climbing
on a route, possibly Trick or Treat
(5.8), a single-pitch climb on the
upper tier of the Bihedral Wall. A
climber who witnessed the fall saw the
woman bounce off the belay ledge
and fall down a rock gully until
0 1836
bystanding climbers jumped on her
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay — Rope2010
Too Skinny for Belay
Kentucky, Device
Red River(Grigri),
Gorge,Kentucky,
Torrent Red River Gorg
Falls
On April 11, Marie Abernathey (early
20s) was leading Dream of a Bee
(5.8), a well-bolted sport climb at the
Torrent Falls area of Red River
Gorge. Abernathey was being belayed
by Katherine West (early 20s), a new
0 1837
climber who was using a Petzl Grigri.
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection and2010
Too Much Time to Place
Colorado, LoversProtection,
Leap Colorado, Lovers Leap
On September 6, Greg (40s), Mike
(30s) and I, Matt (50), were planning
to do Lover’s Leap (5.7), switching
leads and having the two following
climbers simul-climb as seconds on
separate ropes. I took the first lead,
with the intention of linking Pitch 1 and
0 1838
Pitch 2 to make the leads more
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection — 2010
Failure to Wyoming,
Bring Rack,Grand
FailureTeton
to Turn Back —Park,
National Weather, Wyoming
East Face of Mount Teewinot
On August 16 about 0500, Brian
Barwatt (31) and I (Van Roberts, 22)
departed the Lupine Meadows
trailhead for a traverse of Teewinot to
Mount Owen. We had been climbing
in the area for about a week and had
0 1839
gotten up the East Ridge of Wolf’s
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Inadequate
2010 Equipment,
New Mexico, NewSandia
Mexico, Sandia Mountains, Gemstone A
Mountains,
Gemstone Area
Three friends went out climbing at the
Gemstone Area on the climb Seam-
ingly Hard, a run-out 5.10, mixed
bolted and natural gear seem that is
to the climber’s left of Gemstone—
one of the Sandia Mountains most
0 1840
popular 5.8 routes. They set out later
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Washington,
2010 Columbia HillColumbia
Washington, State Park,Hill
Horsethief Butte
State Park,
Horsethief Butte
On Sunday April 5, Tony Silva (30), a
Gresham Oregon Police Detective,
his sister-in-law Laura (26), and her
husband, Bobby Silva, along with
three young children, planned to set a
top rope at Horsethief Butte, a sport
0 1841
climbing area popular with beginning
Fall on Rock, Lowering Error — Rope (Too
2010 Short) Slipped
Utah, PineThrough
Creek Belay
Canyon Device (Grigri), Utah, Pine Cre
On May 9th, rescuers responded to a
climbing accident near the Zion-
Mount Carmel Tunnel. A 27-year-old
man was on a route known as “Feast
of Snakes,” which is located on the
Pine Creek Canyon wall directly below
the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel, when
0 1842
the fall occurred.
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection,
2010Protection PulledClear
Colorado, Out, Exceeded Abilities, Colorado, Clear Cr
Creek Canyon
Sept. 13th. It was a beautiful day for
climbing. Michelle (24) and I (29)
drove out to Clear Creek Canyon to
hone our fledgling lead skills. We
were both cautious, yet eager
climbers with moderate skill, decided
to climb Mounty, a 5.7 trad route. The
0 1843
beta we had gotten from
 Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Utah,
2010Big Cottonwood
Utah, Big Canyon, Mr. Sandman
Cottonwood Canyon, Mr.
Sandman
A rock climber suffered serious
injuries when he fell in Big
Cottonwood Canyon on August 4. The
29-year-old man was backing off a
route called Mr. Sandman in the
Stairs Gulch area, located off Big
0 1844
Cottonwood Canyon Road, when an
Fall on Rock, Severed Rope, Placed No2010
or Inadequate
WestProtection, No Hard Rocks,
Virginia, Seneca Hat, West
La Virginia, Seneca Roc
Bella Vista
On the morning of July 11, Ian Shevill
(42) and his partner Brian (20’s) were
climbing La Bella Vista, a two-pitch
5.10a trad climb, on the East Face of
South Peak when he fell to his death.
Matthew Lombardi, an Instructor and
0 1845
Guide for the Seneca Rocks Climbing
Fall on Snow — Near Miss, Wyoming, 2010Grand Teton NationalGrand
Wyoming, Park, Mount
Teton Moran, Skillet
National Park,Glacier
Mount Moran, Skillet Glacier
On June 2nd, a woman (20+) was
ascending the Skillet Glacier with her
male friend with intentions of skiing
the Skillet Col. Both were wearing
backpacks with skis on their packs, no
helmets, unknown if they had
0 1846
crampons and axes, but I’m guessing
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, 2010
New Hampshire, TuckermanTuckerman
New Hampshire, Ravine, Left Ravine,
Gully
Left gully
On March 14, a woman fell
approximately 1,200 feet from near
the top of Left Gully in Tuckerman
Ravine. She was unable to self-arrest
and quickly lost her ice ax, as she
rapidly accelerated on the very slick
0 1847
surface. Along the way, her crampon
Fall on Snow — Unusual Slip, Washington,
2010Mount Shuksan
Washington, Mount Shuksan
On May 23, one of two clients
sustained an ankle injury when the
guide (29) lost his footing on the
descent of Mount Shuksan. He slid
down a snow slope, and pulled the
clients from their stance. Because of
snow conditions and gradient, the
0 1848
guide was unable to stop himself
Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped, Oregon,2010MountOregon,
Hood, Southside
Mount Hood, Southside
On May 17, John Creager (54) was
descending a Southside variation on
Mount Hood with his two partners. He
lost his footing and fell about 400 feet,
sustaining serious injuries, including
losing consciousness for about 20
minutes. A nearby member of
0 1849
Portland Mountain Rescue witnessed
 Fall on Snow, Faulty Use of Crampons,2010 Washington, Mount Rainier,
Washington, MountMcClure Rock
Rainier, McClure
Rock
On July 4, Mr. Wilkinson (47) was
descending the mountain following an
Alpine Ascents International (AAI)
summit trip. About 2015, Wilkinson
tripped over his crampon and fell, with
his left knee landing on a picket,
0 1851
resulting in a puncture wound. Guides
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing
2010 Alone, Colorado,
Colorado, Rocky
Rocky Mountain
Mountain National Park, Flattop M
National
Park, Flattop Mountain
On May 11 between 1100 and 1200,
a man (57) fell approximately 50-100
feet while climbing a 45-degree snow
colouir on the northwest flank of
Flattop Mountain and was unable to
self-arrest. An island of rocks in the
0 1852
couloir stopped his fall. His impact
Fall on Steep Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest,
2010 Faulty Use of Crampons,
Washington, Washington,
North Cascades North Cascades Natio
National
Park, The Triad
On July 1st, Martin Cash (35) and
Aaron Zabriskie (26) successfully
climbed two of the three summits of a
peak known as The Triad. While
descending a steep snow slope (~35
degrees), Martin Cash lost his footing
0 1853
and slid approximately 60 feet. The
Fall or Slip on Ice, Inadequate Protection
2010
— Running Rope Threaded
Colorado, Through
Vail, Rigid Webbing, Webbing Failed,
Designator
Late on the morning of March 21,
Christopher Boratenski (31) an
experienced climber, was climbing the
Rigid Designator (WI5) a single pitch,
115-foot ice climb with two
companions when he fell.
His climbing partners Oscar and
0 1854
Charlotte Fors had climbed the route
Fall or Slip on Rock, Protection Pulled Out,
2010Tennessee,
the dayTennessee
Tennessee,before Wall,
Tennessee
and Blood-On-The-Rocks
used Wall, Blood-
an existing
on-the-Rocks
tree-anchor at the top of the climb.
Fellow climbers and rescue crews
evacuated an injured climber on
January 25 at the Tennessee Wall
after she took a serious leader fall.
Jesse (22) was leading Blood on the
Rocks (5.10b/c) in the north section of
0 1855
T-Wall. Witnesses said three or four
Fall or Slip on Rock, Rock Flake Came 2010
Off, Placed Inadequate
Colorado,
pieces Protection,
Eldorado
of gear Colorado,
pulledCanyon
when Eldorado Canyon Sta
State
she fell,
Park, West Ridge
On April 13, my climbing partner Dave
and I (Scott Bennett, 23) were
psyched to be out in Eldo. Our
destination was the West Ridge-
Sidewall area, my favorite cragging
hangout in the canyon. After warming
0 1856
up on Court Jester, I felt ready to get
 Falling Ice — Gave Way, Fall on Ice, Climbing
2010 Unroped, Utah,
Utah, Little Little Cottonwood
Cottonwood Canyon, Canyon, Great White Ic
Great White Icicle
On December 31, Gene Rawson (37),
a solo ice climber, was near the top of
the final pitch of the Great White
Icicle. Rawson was waiting for another
climber to complete the pitch. Rawson
felt he had a firm hold in the ice with
0 1857
his ax. As he was waiting, one of his
Falling Ice, Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside
2010 Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside
On January 21, while ascending the
Southside route on Mount Hood at
10,000 feet, a large piece of falling ice
hit Brooke Colvin (31) in the face,
causing her to fall about 400 feet. Her
climbing partner (and husband)
descended to her, realized that she
0 1858
was deceased, and continued down to
Falling Rock — Failure to Test Holds Wyoming,
2010 Wind
On River Range,
August 1, whileCirque of the Pingora
ascending Towers
Peak, Kelsey Dayton pulled a large
rock off while following Joe Kelsey up
a 4th-class chimney The rock grazed
her helmeted head then broke her left
humerus.
Analysis
Mid-altitude mountaineering in this
0 1859
location has significant loose rock
Falling Rock — Fall on Rock, Inadequate
2010
Protection, Failure
Wyoming,
hazards dueto to
Turn
Grand Back, National
Teton Wyoming,
freeze/thaw Grand Teton Nation
Park,
cycles.
Death Canyon, Caveat
(Source: John Gookin, SAR Emptor
On August 29, Brian Huff (23) was
leading the second pitch of Caveat
Emptor and established an anchor at
the top in what is considered the
normal belay location. (A small ledge
and alcove approximately 170 feet up
0 1860
and left from the first belay.) It is
Falling Rock — Rock Came Loose, Fall2010
on Rock,Washington,
Washington, North
NorthCascades
Cascades —–Pickett Range, Mount T
Pickett Range, Mount Terror
Steph Abegg’s Narrative: The Picket
Range is one of the most rugged
areas of the North Cascades.
Although the difficulty of the climbing
is often moderate, the routes are
committing and remote, and any
1 1861
mishap can turn deadly. On July 5, a
Falling Rock, Poor Conditions — Late in
2010
Season,Oregon,
Oregon, Mount
MountHood,
Hood,Sandy
Sandy Glacier Headwall
Glacier
Headwall
On June 28 Chris Haskins (27) and
his partner were ascending the Sandy
Glacier Headwall route on Mount
Hood when Haskins was struck by a
falling rock and suffered a fractured
femur. His partner relocated him to a
0 1862
safer area and descended to report
 New York, Mohonk Preserve,
Shawangunks
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error, New York,2010
Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks
A man (20) with eight years of
experience, according to the report,
rappelled off one end of his rope—as
his doubled rope was not even. This
resulted in a fracture of two of his
lumbar vertebrae—but no neurological
damage. (Source: From reports
0 1863 submitted by Mohonk Preserve)
Foothold Broke Off — Fall on Rock, Idaho,
2010 City of Rocks
Idaho, National
City Reserve,
of Rocks Castle Rock
National
Reserve, Castle Rock
On May 21 at 11:45 a.m., volunteer
camp host Dottie Cross (63) broke a
foothold and fell while attempting to
lead the upper pitch of “One For Matt”
on Castle Rock. Her climbing
companion, Duane Ackerman (62)of
0 1864
Elba, Idaho, lowered Cross to his
Off Route, Fall on Rock, Colorado, Rocky
2010Mountain NationalRocky
Colorado, Park, Lumpy Ridge
Mountain National
Park, Lumpy Ridge
My partner and I (ages not recorded)
were climbing White Whale (5.7) at
Lumpy Ridge on July 15. It is
considered by many as a fantastic
three-pitch trad route. Neither of us
had done the route before. My partner
0 1866
began leading the third and final pitch,
Rockfall, Fall on Rock, Colorado, Boulder
2010Canyon, Redgarden
Colorado, Wall Canyon,
Boulder
Redgarden Wall
I was on pitch 4 of Rewritten (5.7) on
August 1 when the party above me
yelled down that the block was loose.
I’ve climbed Rewritten before and I
knew about the infamous refrigerator
block balanced on the ledge above
0 1868
me. I didn’t think too much about the
Slide into Steam Vent, Washington, Mount
2010Rainier
Washington, Mount Rainier
On May 24th, a climbing guide (age
unknown) near the summit of Mount
Rainier slid into a steam vent and fell
15 to 20 feet. Climbers with her
reported that she had injured ribs on
her left side, was experiencing
difficulty breathing, and had a reduced
0 1869
level of consciousness. Ranger Chris
Slip on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, 2010
Off-Route,Wyoming,
No Hard Hat, Inexperience,
Grand Wyoming,
Teton National Park,Grand Teton Na
Mount Teewinot, Northwest Couloir
On July 11, Sam Russell (22) fell
approximately 200 vertical feet down
the Northwest Couloir of Teewinot,
sustaining significant injuries. The fall
resulted from a slip on snow that
occurred at the top of the NW Couloir
0 1870
just below the prominent “V-notch”
 Stranded — Leading to Exhaustion and 2010
Dehydration, Oregon,
Oregon, Smith
Smith Rocks,
Rocks, MonkeyFace
Monkey Face
On Tuesday, July 14, 2009, Samuel
Wilson (18) and his friend (17), both
from the state of Washington, called
911 at 6:30 p.m. They had been
climbing routes all day at Smith Rock
State Park and had become stranded
about 100 feet below a popular
1 1871
feature known as Monkey Face and
Avalanche Alaska, Denali National Park,
2011
Werewolf/Hut
On May Towers, Freezy
24, four Nuts of an
members
expedition were flown on to the Ruth
Glacier with the intent to climb several
surrounding snow and ice routes.
Weather conditions in the area (4,500
feet) were unseasonably warm, with
nighttime temperatures consistently
above freezing. Over the next several
0 1872
days, the team made early morning
Avalanche, Climbing Alone, Colorado, 2011
CimmaronColorado,
Mountains, Baldy Peak
Cimmaron Mountains,
Baldy Peak
On March 30, Heidi Kloos (41),
traveling with her dog, went to climb a
remote ice climb on the northeast side
of Baldy Peak (10,603 feet). Ouray
County Search and Rescue was
contacted on March 31 when a friend
0 1873
found that Heidi had not returned
Avalanche, Underestimated Hazard, Poor
2011PositionAbout
Alaska, Deltas, on
mid-day Canwell Glacier
February 27, we
(author and two others) parked at
Miller Creek and began skinning up
through sustained high winds towards
the terminus of the Canwell Glacier.
While skinning on the flat river valley,
occasional “whoomphing” was heard
and remarked about with casual
0 1874
interest. At one point a very large
Bee Swarm — Stranded Arizona, Mount2011 Lemon On August 11, a rock climber was
stung more than 1,000 times when he
and his three partners encountered a
beehive about 6:30 p.m. and were
attacked atop Mount Lemmon.
His partners were able to escape the
swarm, but he was stranded for
several hours. Search and rescue
1 1875
crews were able to rescue him about
Climber Caused Fracture of Ice Dam, Fall
2011on Ice, On
Climbing Unroped
February California,
16, Christy Lee Vining
McIntire (31) Canyon
and Victor Lawson (37) were ice
climbing in Lee Vining Canyon, just
east of Tuolumne Meadows. They
began their day of climbing on Main
Wall, a popular area for ice climbers
in the eastern Sierra. After topping out
Main Wall on a WI4 multi-pitch route,
0 1876
they discovered an enticing smaller
 Climber Pulled Rock Off, Rock Fall 2011 Colorado, Eldorado Canyon, Wind
Tower
On June 17 rescuers were called to
Eldorado Canyon State Park for a
rock- slide with a person trapped.
Selma Hafizbegovic (39) was going to
climb the Wind Tower rock formation
via the Recon Route (5.6). She was
0 1877
with four other climbers, all from New
Fall on Ice, Belay Device Set-Up Incorrectly,
2011 Colorado, Ouray
Colorado, Ice Park
Ouray Ice Park
According to reports, on February 6, a
client topped out and placed his
partner, a guide, on belay. In the
process, the client rigged his Reverso
incorrectly. Sometime during the climb
the climber was being lowered and
because the rope was threaded
0 1878
incorrectly through the belay device,
Fall on Ice, Ice Pillar Fractured Colorado,
2011
Vail, The
OnFang
January 12, MM (34) and KS
partnered up to climb a 35-meter pillar
of ice known as The Fang (WI5). MM
instructed KS on their approach
where to stand for a safe belay. MM
started his lead by climbing on the
opposite side of the cauliflower to the
base of the pillar where he set a
0 1879
screw and moved to the west side of
Fall on Ice/Rock, Protection Pulled Out,2011
Placed Inadequate
On June Protection
7, BelgianAlaska,
climberMount
Joris McKinley,
Van Cassin R
Reeth of Borgerhout (27) was killed in
a fall while climbing the Cassin Ridge.
He was leading a highly technical
section of the route known as the
Japanese Couloir when his anchor
appeared to fail and he fell 100 feet in
rocky terrain. Van Reeth fell to the
0 1880
approximate elevation of his partner
Fall on Ice/Snow, Climbing Unroped, Poor 2011Conditions, Colorado,
"Colorado, RockyRocky Mountain
Mountain National Park, Taylor
National
Park, Taylor Glacier
On October 16, a party of three
started up the Taylor Glacier. The
Taylor Glacier is a 40-60 degree
1,500-foot permanent snowfield in
Rocky Mountain National Park. Two
weeks prior, James Patrick (54), the
0 1881
leader of the group had attempted the
Fall on Rock — Belay Failure (Unsecured 2011
Rope, Distraction), California,Valley,
California, Yosemite Yosemite Valley, Churchbowl
Churchbowl
On Nov. 6, Betsey (20) and I, Mike
(19), (pseudonyms) spent the day
climbing at Churchbowl with friends. I
had climbed in the park several times
over the last three years, but that was
my first time at Churchbowl. I led
0 1882
several climbs and rigged top ropes
 Fall on Rock — Belay Failure (Unsecured
2011Rope, Distraction), No Helmet,
California, Yosemite California,
Valley, Five Yosemite Valley, Fi
Open Books
On August 11, my brothers, Eric (26)
and Thayne (19), and I, Grace Rich
(31), were visiting Yosemite and we
decided to go climbing. Eric and
Thayne had climbed only a few times
before and weren’t feeling up for a
0 1883
multi-pitch route, so I thought we’d
Fall on Rock — Failure to Belay Thumb,
2011
California, Yosemite
California, Valley, ElValley,
Yosemite CapitanEl
Capitan
On Oct 12, Matt Krueger (41) and I,
John Robinson (64), started climbing
up to Sickle Ledge from the base of El
Cap, intending to fix our lines for a
head start on the Nose route the
following day. We third-classed up the
0 1884
buttress, Matt led the first pitch, and I
Fall on Rock — Misjudged Pendulum, California,
2011 Yosemite Valley,
California, El Capitan
Yosemite Valley, El
Capitan
On Sept. 18, Toni Alegre (42) and
Jorge Lantero (43) started climbing
the Nose of El Capitan (31 pitches,
Grade VI). They led on double ropes
(one red and one green) and moved
quickly, practicing for a later attempt
0 1886
to climb the route in a day. From the
Fall on Rock, Carabiner Impaled in Arm,
2011
Colorado, EldoradoEldorado
Colorado, Canyon State Park State
Canyon
Park
On September 4, Patrick Kadel (age
unknown) was climbing Break On
Through (5.11) when he fell
seconding the first pitch. Before the
belayer could stop his fall, Kadel
somehow impaled his right forearm
0 1887
into the rope- end carabiner of a point
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
2011 PlacedOnNo MayProtection
26, soloAlaska,
climberMount McKinley, West Rib
Luc Benoit
(40) sustained an un-roped fall of
approximately 1000 feet down the
West Rib. The next day Ranger
Tucker Chenoweth flew with pilot
Andy Hermansky in the contract A-
star B3 helicopter 3AE to the scene
and picked up the climber using a toe-
0 1888
in landing. Benoit was assessed at
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone, Inadequate
2011Clothing and Equipment,
Colorado, BoulderColorado,
Canyon,Boulder
Dome Canyon, Dome Ro
Rock
On the evening of September 9,
Brenna Fisch (19), began soloing up
The Owl (5.7), a popular crack climb
on The Dome, a 200-foot-high granite
cliff. From all indications, it appears
that Brenna slipped, then slid and fell
0 1889
40 feet down the cliff to the base at
 Fall on Rock, Colorado, Rocky Mountain 2011
NationalColorado,
Park, Longs PeakMountain National
Rocky
Park, Longs Peak
On July 17, my partner Eric Baer (23)
and I (William Esposito, 27) began
climbing the Stettner’s Ledges Route
(5.7+) on the east face of Longs
Peak. On approximately the fourth
pitch, I climbed about ten feet past my
0 1890
last gear placement, a green Camalot,
Fall on Rock, Free-Soloing, California, 2011
Yosemite California,
— Tuolumne Meadows,
Yosemite Cathedral Peak
– Tuolumne
Meadows, Cathedral Peak
On the afternoon of July 9th, rangers
received a report that a climber had
fallen approximately 400 to 500 feet
while descending the Eichorn
Pinnacle on Cathedral Peak. Rangers
responded by helicopter and quickly
0 1891
located the climber, identified as
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay Anchor/Lowering
2011 Error — Nylon-on-Nylon,
California, Yosemite Valley,California,
Royal Yosemite Valley,
Arches
On May 21, Curtis Rappe (24)
climbed a single-pitch route near the
base of Royal Arches while being
belayed from below. At the top he
threaded his rope directly through the
nylon webbing slings of the anchor.
0 1892
As his partner lowered him, the
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, California,
2011 Yosemite National
California, Park,National
Yosemite Middle Cathedral
Park,
Middle Cathedral
On May 6, I took a lead fall way
bigger than I would have liked and got
to have a couple fun helicopter rides
because of it. Just thought I’d share
what happened so that others might
learn second-hand rather than first-
0 1893
hand.
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, Colorado, Boulder
2011 FallsColorado, Boulder Falls
During the afternoon on March 6, a
person reported a fallen climber in the
area behind Boulder Falls by flagging
down a United States Forest Service
employee, who in turn reported the
incident by radio.
The climber, Austin Forbes (21), was
0 1894
located at the base of the Plotinus
Fall on Rock, Pre-Existing Condition, Colorado,
2011 Eldorado
Colorado, Canyon StateCanyon
Eldorado
Wall, a popular sport Park, Redgarden
climbing area. Wall
State
Park, Redgarden Wall
He had fallen approximately 20 feet
On Saturday, September 25 Maria
Petzolt (26) dislocated her shoulder
unexpectedly while pulling on a hold
on the fourth pitch of Ruper (5.8), a 6-
pitch route on the Redgarden Wall.
Maria had dislocated the same
0 1895
shoulder five weeks earlier on another
 Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Colorado,
2011 Boulder Canyon,
Colorado, Happy
Boulder Hour Crag
Canyon, Happy
Hour Crag
On May 8, I took a 15-foot ground fall
at Happy Hour, resulting in three
broken ribs and a partially collapsed
lung. Very lucky! I was leading “I,
Robot” (5.7), a right-facing dihedral.
There’s not a lot of gear off the
0 1896
ground. I had a 0.5 cam in the crack
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Colorado,
2011 Eldorado
Colorado,Canyon State Park
Eldorado Canyon State
Park
On August 21, 2010, Donald Budlong
fell from the slippery crux on the
Bastille Crack (5.7+) and pulled two
pieces, the highest of which was
placed in the large flake to the right of
the actual crack. He suffered a broken
0 1897
pelvis and other injuries.
Fall on Rock, Rock and Mud Slides, Colorado,
2011 Crestone Needle
Colorado, Crestone Needle
Duane (57) and Linda Buhrmester
(56), both experienced climbers,
walked in from the trailhead to Upper
Colony Lake on July 26 in the mid
afternoon. They camped there for the
night with the intent on climbing the
Ellingwood Arête (5.7+) on Crestone
0 1898
Needle (14,197 feet).
Fall on Rock, Rockslide, Colorado, Mount
2011
Wilson, El DienteMount
Colorado, Traverse
Wilson, El Diente
Traverse
During the morning of July 26, a
group of seven climbers were
traversing the ridge between Mount
Wilson (14,246 feet) and El Diente
(14,159 feet) peaks, one of
Colorado’s four classic 14’er
0 1899
traverses.
Fall on Rock, Rope Severed, Colorado, 2011
Eldorado Canyon
Colorado,State Park, Red
Eldorado GardenState
Canyon Wall
Park, Red Garden Wall
Joe Miller (38) fell to his death on the
morning of June 22 while climbing the
Yellow Spur route (5.9) on the
Redgarden Wall. A later investigation
revealed that a micro-Camalot below
the dihedral held. It appears that the
0 1900
length of sling on that cam caused the
Fall on Rock, Self-Belay Error, Mistake2011
With Ascenders, "Summit
California, Fever,"
Yosemite California,
Valley, EI Yosemite Valley, E
Capitan
In late afternoon on June 3, Steve
Gomez (37), Eric Sorenson (34), and
Dave Goodwin (41), reached the last
pitch ofMescalito (26 pitches, Grade
VI) on El Capitan. Steve led the pitch
but stopped briefly at the top of the
0 1901
bolt ladder, still on the steep headwall
 Fall on Rock, Simul-Climbing Colorado, 2011
EldoradoOnCanyon
June State Park
26, Bill Wright (45) and Tom
Karpeichik (48) attempted to
simulclimb 100 pitches in Eldorado
Canyon (Eldo) in a day. At about 7:30
a.m. the climbers were on their 11th
route/34th pitch on Redguard Route
(5.8) when the higher climber fell
about 140 feet and sustained serious
0 1902
injuries. Fortunately the few points of
Fall on Rock, Slack Rope, Arkansas, Horseshoe
2011 Canyon Ranch
Arkansas, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
My wife Kylie and I (age unknown)
were climbing at Horseshoe Canyon
Ranch near Jasper on December 22.1
was going to lead Frankenberry
(5.9+), a six-bolt route approximately
60 feet in length. The crux was just
under the third bolt with a small
0 1903
technical roof. I made it to the third
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing
2011 Unroped,
Alaska,Poor Position,
Mount Alaska,
McKinley, Mount McKinley, Kahiltn
Kahiltna
Glacier
On May 16, French mountaineer
Pascal Frison (51) fell to his death
while climbing Mount McKinley. He
and his partner were approaching a
feature at the top of Motorcycle Hill
known as “Lunch Rocks” near 12,000
0 1905
feet on the West Buttress when Frison
Falling Rock — Block Came Off, Fall on 2011
Rock —California,
InadequateYosemite
Protection,Valley,
Bad Luck/Good
EI Luck, California
Capitan
On August 24 in late afternoon, Kyung
Bok Su (47) and three Korean
partners finished pitch 19 of the Nose
route (31 pitches, Grade VI) and
Kyung began leading pitch 20 up to
Camp IV. He climbed up and left to a
0 1906
large block, placed a cam near its
HAPE and HACE, Ascending Too Fast,2011 Alaska, Mount
Alaska,McKinley, West Buttress
Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
After a rapid ascent to 14,200 foot
camp on the West Buttress, a
member of the “Polish Female Denali
2010” expedition, Zygmunt
Berdychowski (49), began
experiencing signs and symptoms of
0 1908
both High Altitude Pulmonary Edema
HAPE, Ascending Too Fast, Alaska, Mount2011McKinley,
Alaska,West Buttress
Mount McKinley, West
Buttress
An eight-member expedition climbed
from 7,200 feet to 14,200 feet in three
days via the West Buttress. On May
14, eight days after the start of their
climb, the expedition arrived at the
17,200-foot camp. Soon after their
0 1909
arrival, one of the members (45)
 Pre-existing Condition, Colorado, Boulder
2011CanyonColorado, Boulder Canyon
On May 29, Bill Trull (age unknown)
was climbing in a recently developed
climbing area across from the
Bihedral Rock. The climb was located
on the south side of Boulder Creek.
Trull did not fall but became injured
during the climb due to a previous,
0 1910
unrelated injury. He was climbing on a
Protection Failure — Fall on Rock, Inadequate
2011 Protection, California,
California, Yosemite,Yosemite, El Capitan
EI Capitan
In May, Jean-Noel “Jano” Crouzat
(48), an experienced French guide,
was seriously injured while climbing
the Salathe Wall (3 5 pitches, Grade
VI) on El Capitan. The following
account was written by his partner on
the route, Thibaut “Tibo” Mauron, a
0 1911
member of the Swiss National Team.
Rappel Error — Carabiner Gate Not Closed,
2011 No Hard Hat, Colorado,
Colorado, BoulderBoulder
Canyon,Canyon, Boulderado Crag
Boulderado Crag
On August 17, Andrew Tysinger (23)
was on top of the Boulderado Crag
with his girlfriend showing her how to
rappel when he fell from the top of the
crag. He was not wearing a helmet.
Andrew’s girlfriend told rescuers that
0 1912
the carabiner gate on Andrew’s
Rappel Error — No Back-Up Belay and2011No Knot Colorado,
on Rope End,
harness was Colorado,
Boulder Boulder
Canyon
not properly closedCanyon
when
On July 6, a female (31) fell
he first pushed off to begin his
approximately 15 feet when she
rappelled off the end of her rope while
climbing in Boulder Canyon. She
injured her lower leg, and possibly her
back, and had to be transported
across Boulder Creek and taken to
0 1913
Boulder Community Hospital.
Rappel Rigging Error — Fall on Rock, Distraction,
2011 California,Yosemite
California, YosemiteValley,
Valley,Serenity
Serenity Crack
Crack
On May 7, Brian Ellis (31) and Japhy
Dhungana (25), his frequent climbing
partner of several years, climbed
Serenity Crack (three pitches, 5. lOd)
and Sons of Yesterday (five pitches,
5.10a), which starts at the top of
0 1914
Serenity. They began rappelling the
Rock Gave Away — Fall on Rock, Colorado,
2011 Indian Peaks Indian Peaks
Colorado,
On August 21, Glenn Porzak (64), his
son Austin Porzak, and Robert
Petrowsky were climbing on the East
Ridge between Little Pawnee Peak
(12,466 feet) and Pawnee Peak
(12,943 feet). Sometime during the
morning, Glenn fell and suffered
0 1915
serious injuries.
 Rockfall, Fall on Rock, Belayer Lost Control
2011 When Struck by
Arizona, Rock, Arizona,
Prescott NationalPrescott
Forest, National Forest, Gr
Granite Mountain
On December 12, Elise Anderson
(21), Jeff Rome (21), and Chris
Shanehoffer (26), went to climb at
Granite Mountain. Their route for the
day was Granite Jungle—two pitches
of 5.6 leading into the third pitch of
0 1916
Chieu Hoi—5.9. They started their
Stranded on Descent — Unable to Ascend 2011
Rope, Inadequate
California, Self-Rescue Skills, Communications
Yosemite Valley, Sons of Problem
Yesterday
On June 29, Curt (26) and Sherri (29)
(pseudonyms) climbed Serenity Crack
(three pitches, 5.10d). From the top of
Serenity they continued up Sons of
Yesterday (six pitches, 5.10a), and
then began rappelling the same line
1 1917
on double ropes. They reached the
Stranded, Exceeding Abilities, Inexperience,
2011 Inadequate Clohting/Equipment,
Colorado, Rocky MountainColorado,
National Rocky Mountain
Park, Longs Peak, Keiner's Route
On September 2, a party of two men
(ages 53 and 34) with no alpine rock
or any snow/ice experience attempted
Keiner’s Route on Longs Peak.
(Keiner’s is a 2,000-foot, grade II, AI
2, 5.3-5.5 route.) This route starts with
1 1918
an 800-foot snow/ice couloir known as
Stranded, Inadequate Equipment, Climbing
2011Alone,Colorado,
Colorado,Second
Second Flatiron
Flatiron
On September 4, rescuers were
dispatched to the Second Flatiron on
a report of a stranded climber. Noah
Gershon (20) was located on a near
vertical edge of the “Pullman Car,” a
rock feature on the upper portion of
the Second Flatiron. Due to
1 1919
Gershon’s location, it took almost two
Stranded, Off Route, Colorado, Eldorado2011
Canyon Colorado,
State Park Eldorado Canyon State
Park
On March 4, a male climber (23) and
his friend began to rappel the
Redguard route sometime around
7:00 p.m. They quickly realized they
had descended in the wrong spot and
had become stuck. They called two
0 1920
friends who attempted to help them,
Stranded, Off Route, Party Separated, Colorado,
2011 Rocky Mountain
Colorado, RockyNational
MountainPark,National
Longs Peak, The Diamon
Park, Longs Peak, The Diamond
On July 20, Carloyn Davis (27)
became stranded while rappelling
down The Diamond (East Face). She
and her partner had climbed the
Casual Route (grade IV, 5.10) and
reached Table Ledge where the
1 1921
Diamond rappels begin at about 11:00
 Avalanche, Poor Position, Ignored Obvious
2011Potential for Avalanche,
Washington, MountWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham
Rainier, Ingraham
Direct
On the morning of June 5th at 0445, a
large avalanche along the Ingraham
Direct route was reported to NPS
rangers by RMI guides on the
Ingraham Glacier around 11,400 feet.
Eleven people—a party of three
0 1922
Americans, a party of six Koreans,
Avalanche, Wyoming, Grand Teton National
2011 Park,Wyoming,
South TetonGrand Teton National Park,
South Teton
On February 22 at 1120, Wray
Landon (31) was caught in an
avalanche and carried to his death
while skiing near the summit of the
South Teton. Landon was skiing with
partners Nathan Brown (32) and
0 1923
Brady Johnston (27). Both searched
Belay and Tie-In Error, Fall on Rock, No
2011
Hard Hat, Utah,
Utah, Big
Big CottonwoodCanyon,
Cottonwood Canyon, Dogwood Crag
Dogwood Crag
On September 26, University of Utah,
Remote Rescue Training’s HighAngle
Rescue Technician class was
practicing rope rescue systems at the
Dogwood crag in Big Cottonwood
Canyon when a nearby climber, not
0 1924
associated with the class, fell
Belayer Error — Leader Pulled Off, Fall2011
on RockOnClimb Utah,10,
August American Fork Canyon
two experienced
climbers climbing together for the first
time met at the mouth of American
Fork Canyon at the suggestion of the
younger climber, Christian Burrell
(25), who proposed establishing a
new route. James Garrett (59) had
established many first ascents
0 1925
traditionally from the ground up,
Climber Unties from Team — Disappears 2011
DuringWashington,
Severe Weather, Inexperienced
Mount Climbing Partners, Wash
Rainier, Gibraltar
Ledges
On the morning of July 1, Eric Lewis
(57) went missing when his climbing
companions discovered that he had
unclipped from the climbing rope and
disappeared. The three-man team
was ascending the Gibraltar Ledges
0 1926
route and encountered high wind and
Dislodged Rock — Fall on Rock, Fatigue,2011
Wyoming, Grand Teton,
Wyoming, GrandBlack Dike
Teton, Black Dike
On July 17 around 1200, Paul Iman
(23) contacted Rangers G.R. Fletcher
and D. Hardesty at the Lower Saddle
of Garnet Canyon. He was returning
from the Black Dike area about a
quarter of a mile above the Lower
Saddle where he had earlier
0 1927
dislodged a rock while scrambling
 Fall into Cravasse, Weather — Whiteout2011
Conditions and High Winds,
Washington, MountOff Route,Camp
Rainier, Inexperience, Washingto
Muir
On April 27, park climbing rangers,
assisted by guides from International
Mountain Guides and Alpine Ascents
International, successfully rescued
two Canadian climbers, Simon Brunet
(23) and Genivive Morund (early
0 1928
20’s), who had fallen into a crevasse
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection — Missed
2011 Back-Up Check and 20,
On November Warning,
as myHaste
friendColorado,
Chris Rocky Mount
Pruchnic (42) and I walked early in
the morning to our original
destination, the Black Lake Slabs or
West Gully ice climbs in RMNP, we
talked at length. Chris, about running
—a 100 mile race which he had
completed about a month before, as
0 1929
Front Range Section Chair of the
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection — Tool
2011
Placement, Washington,
Washington, BanksBanks Lake,
Lake, BrushBash
Brush Bash
On 30 December, RM (23), while
leading Brush Bash, WI 4, (one pitch)
at Banks Lake, Washington,
sustained a leader fall resulting in a
badly sprained left ankle. The
overnight temperature was close to 0
F, and the daytime temperature
0 1930
reached about 25 F. The day was
Fall on Ice, Protection Pulled Out, New2011
Hampshire,
NewMount Washington,
Hampshire, Pinnacle
Mount Gully
Washington,
Pinnacle Gully
On March 20, a group of three
climbers fell while simul-climbing
upper pitches of Pinnacle Gully. It was
a very busy Saturday in Huntington
Ravine. Temperatures Friday were
warm and sunny, and then overnight
0 1931
they stayed above the freezing mark.
Fall on Rock and Snow, Inexperience, Inadequate
2011 Equipment
Oregon, and Clothing,
Mount ThielsenClimbing Alone, Oregon, Mou
On June 25, Tristan Massie (40),
visiting Oregon from Maryland, was
free-solo climbing the spectacular
talus of the class four summit of
Mount Thielsen when he slipped, fell
about 20 feet on volcanic blocks, and
then slid about 50 feet on the steep
1 1932
snow field below the summit.
Fall on Rock, Arm Lacerated by Carabiner,
2011NorthNorth
Carolina, Pilot Mountain
Carolina, State Park
Pilot Mountain State
Park
On September 25, Bennet Harris (30)
and Tom Drewes (34) were climbing
Arms Control (5.11c). Tom was about
to pull the final roof. I was watching
him climb extremely closely as I
intended to climb the route and
0 1933
wanted to see what he did.
 Fall on Rock, Cold Fingers, Oregon, French's
2011 Dome Oregon, French's Dome
On September 4, Joe Leineweber
(29) was leading a 5.8 to 5.9 bolted
route on French’s Dome. The weather
was somewhat damp and there were
wet places on the rock. Leineweber
was reaching for a bolt when he fell
about 20-30 feet. During the fall his
0 1934
right foot hit a projecting ledge,
Fall on Rock, Equipment Failure Due to2011
Mis-use, West
West Virginia, New
New River
RiverGorge,
Gorge,Kaymoor
Kaymoor
On June 12 Karen Feher (33) and her
partner were climbing Rico Suave
(5.10a). Upon reaching the anchor,
she clipped in. Her setup: She had
two thin dyneema slings girth hitched
to her harness. At the end of each
0 1935
sling was a locking carabiner held in
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay — Rope2011Pulls Through BelayEldorado
Colorado, Device, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State P
Canyon State
Park
On December 14, a female climber
(27) was lowered off the end of her
rope after leading the first pitch of
Over the Hill (5.10). Drew Wojcik was
in the climbing party directly above
her and recounts what he saw: “As we
0 1936
began the second pitch of Over the
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Distraction
2011Kentucky, Red
A large Riverwas
group Gorge, MilitaryatWall
gathered Military
Wall on September 12 playing music,
possibly loud enough to make
communication between climber and
belayer difficult. Climber was getting
into the upper knee bar on Reliquary
(5.12b) when he fell near the last bolt.
The climber landed on the belayer’s
0 1937
dog, killing it instantly.
Fall on Rock, Kentucky, Red River Gorge2011 Kentucky, Red River Gorge

On April 17 M. Tucker was climbing

above bolt three when he fell
approximately 30-40 feet while
climbing Elephant Man (5.13b). He
suffered fatal head injuries. (Source:
Edited from:
0 1938
www.redriverclimbing.com
Fall on Rock, Kentucky, Red River Gorge,
2011Roadside Crag Red River Gorge, Roadside
Kentucky,
Crag
On November 20, a climber (age
unknown) on Ro Shampo (5.12a)
“smashed” their belayer into the
boulder below the climb because they
forgot to unclip the belay end of the
rope after cleaning bolt #1 and taking
0 1939
the swing. (Source: From a post on
 a bone in my wrist, but the break was
on a fairly minor bone, so I actually
kept climbing that weekend.
Analysis
While I am relatively new to climbing, I
Fall on Rock, New York, Adirondacks, 2011 can
Newcomfortably
Upper Washbowl lead 5.9 Upper
CliffAdirondacks,
York, sport routes
and can
Washbowl Cliffclimb 5.10 routes, so it was
reasonable to expect
On August 16, Dennis Murphy (35) that Frogs
Head,
had reacheda 5.6, would
the topgo ofsmoothly.
a climbingMy
second, who is
route on Upper Washbowl also my mentor,
Cliffs has
in
as many years of experience
Keene Valley at about 6:10 p.m. as I’ve
when
been
he lostalive and is aand
his footing veryfellcompetent
more than
and
100 skilled
feet. New teacher
York and State climber.
forest My
0 1940 rack hadanda full set ofFire nuts, Black
rangers Keene Department
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, Kentucky, Red
2011River Kentucky,
Gorge
Diamond C4Red cams River fromGorge .3-3, a
As is usually
Metolius 1, a the
set case,
of Tri-cams,Breakfast and
Burritoseven
about (5.10d) had a linetwo-foot
extendable of climbers
waitingand
slings for five
it onlong June16-cm 6, and when she
finally had a chance, CL (age
quickdraws.
Iunknown)
found Frogs tookHead her turnto be onaBreakfast
bit more
Burrito. than
difficult CL and anotherpartly
expected, member of
because
0 1941 Iour
amgroup setthe
5’1”, so up,holds
stick were clipped the first
actually
bolt,within
not and then
my graspI cameif over I used andtheput CL
usual
Fall on Rock, Off-Route, North Carolina,
2011
Blue RidgeNorthParkway,
Carolina, Shiprock
Blue Ridge Parkway,
footholds. I believe that I fell back at
Shiprock
the bulge and the horizontal force I
The three of us had been climbing
exerted on my nut pulled it up and
since late morning on September 4. It
out. I also believe my Metolius 1 was
was now early evening and two of us
under-cammed. When deciding
decided to try an unnamed route
whether to use slings or quickdraws, I
described to us by a climber we met
decided that draws were sufficient
on our previous trip to Ship Rock. We
0 1942 because the route went pretty much
checked out the features and picked
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protectcion,
2011 North straight up Stone
Carolina,
North and thus
Carolina, there
Mountain
Stone Mountainwouldn’t
State Park
Statebe
an
Parkhorizontal rope drag. However, I
failed to consider
On February 27, my thetwo force that a draw
partners and
would
I were getting ready to climbevent of
exert on a nut in the
the fall andLead
Mercury’s how off thethebulge treeofledge.
the rock
would affect the rope
Two young women (I’ll call them and how it Jane
tugged on the pieces.
and Joan) came walking down from I also failed to
realize howof
the far end small the range
the tree ledge is andforsaid
a
0 1943 small cam as to theleadMetolius 1. AsArch a
they planned the Great
Fall on Rock, Poorly Constructed Anchor,
2011
North Carolina,
North of Hanging
result Carolina, Rock State
Hanging
these mistakes, RockPark,
I believe Moore's
Statethey Wall
Park, Moore's Wall
are what caused my pieces to pull.
On May 2,three
I learned Drew veryWittvaluable
(28) andlessons.I, Lee
Kennedy (23) were climbing
In the future, I will always use slings Zoo View
(5.7+).
with myI nuts
set up and theextend
belay them by building
if there
anany
is anchor
bulge oninthe thelarge
rock boulderor if I am
located
close theonground.
the Crow’s I willNest also (Pitch
remember 1, <
80 feet).
how smallBefore
the range Drewisstarted on the the small
0 1944
second
cams andpitch,
be sureI decided
not totounder-cam
make the
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Exceeding
2011 Abilities, New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks
them. I will also really set my nuts
when placing them and make sure
they are sitting securely in the cracks.
(Source: Edited from a report
submitted by Lisa Wang)
(Editor’s Note: We always appreciate
it when climbers submit their own
0 1945 reports and self-analysis.)
 his backpack
quickdraw wasand jacket and
removed fromhanding
the first
a
bolt of “Tape Worm” shortlyBohlig
camera to another hiker, after thewas
backing up toward the
accident. It was found to be intact and edge of the
crater
operable, when butthe thesnow gave way,
two 'biners were
Salkovics said.
severely worn by the actionsThe hiker withofthe a
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled, Georgia,
2011
Tallulahcamera
Gorge State
Georgia, Park
Tallulah Gorge Statethe Park
climbingthrew rope beinghimself toward
pulled through edge
the
Joshua
but was Robertson
unable to (20), an
catch avid “The
Bohlig. rock
bottom 'biner and the hanger bracket
climber,
first thingdiedI didofon wasinjuries
start from a fall on
grinding away the topscreaming,
one. It is not
April no!’”
‘No, 20. He was climbing
Salkovics said. with
“It was three
the
known who hung this quickdraw or
others. sense
hugest Sources of said the fall I’ve
helplessness
when it was hung. The carabiner in
happened
ever had.”was on P2 of Mescaline
Salkovics said he tossed
question never intended to be a
Daydream
backpack (5.8) and thatinto onethe or more
permanently hung on a popular crater
with supplies route
gear
in hopesplacements
it would failed. Joshua
help his friend. was
It
0 1946 and expected to withstand numerous
not
was wearing
determined a helmet.later Park
the officials
backpack
Fall on Rock, Rappel Failure/Error, Inadequate leaderCarolina,
2011 Equipment,
North falls.
NorthSand-laden
Carolina,
Paint Rock ropesRock
Paint serve
had
as a landed
very out of Bohlig’s reach.
Paint rockeffective
(also known abrasive cutting
as Graffiti
A
toolhelicopter
anda can from Whidbey
wearroadside Island
down lightweight
Rock), popular rappelling
Naval
aluminum Air Station
carabiners removed Bohlig’s
in a relatively
and training site in Pisgah National
body
short from
period the of south
time. crater wall athave
Quickdraws
Forest was the scene of a rappelling
2:45
been p.m.
left onIt was the
hanging on15fourth
several attempt to
accident August involving Jane
reach
overhangingBohlig after weather
routes in the Red, halted astwowell
and John Doe.
tries
as Monday
other climbing and one
venues, Tuesdayover the
John had limited climbing experience
0 1947 morning.
years bythe ANALYSISand climbers.
developers
through military; his girlfriend Jane
Fall on Rock, Rope Pulls Through Belay2011 Climbing
Device, North accidents are rare but not
had noCarolina,
North
There Carolina,
are Hawksbill
no routine
climbing Hawksbill Mountain,
Mountain,
inspections
experience. The of Linville Gorge Wil
pair
unprecedented
Linville
hardware Gorge on Mount
Wilderness
performed St. Helens.
had two ropes, one aon Red routes.
climbing rope,
There
On hasn’t
September
Climbing been
visitors 20, areaAG climbing
(26) and
warned death
to AA on
trust
the
(30) mountain
were since
climbing the
at
absolutely nothing they find fixed to the1970s,
“Fischesser
Skamania
Wall,”a
climbinglittle County
known
routes. Sheriff
Check sportfixedDavid
climbing
gear Brown
said.
area on the upper wall
before committing to it! If a ’biner is of Hawksbill
Richard
grooved Bohlig
Mountain located
and said
(most onof he
thehopes
all)eastside
sharp, histake
of
son’s
itthe death
offLinville
the route will
Gorge serve
andWilderness. as a reminder
replace it with AGa
0 1948 to other
was
new one!climbers.
leading a 5.8+“I climb hope withthat AAthey
Fall on Rock, Rope Severed by Carabiner,
2011Kentucky,
would Redlearn
RivertoGorge,don’t be Midnight
so having
sure Surf Wall
of the
Follow-up: All quickdraws
edge of the rim,”
aluminum carabiners have been he said. “It can break
off almostfrom
removed any climbs
time, and that’sValley
in Muir what
happened.” Dave Cox,
and new stainless steel PermaDraws Skamania
County
(by Climb undersheriff,
Tech) havesaid been heinstalled
wasn’t in
sure whether the death
their places by volunteers. (Source: would have
any
Rickimpact on safety
& Liz Weber, from procedures
a post on on
0 1949 the mountain.
redriverclimbing.com) “I just think we’re
dealing with a very unfortunate
Fall on Snow – Cornice Collapse Washington,
2011 Mount St. Helens
accident today,” he said. (Source:
Edited from an article by Brian
Rosenthal in the Seattle Times.)
An interview with skier Steven
Lozano, who was on the summit with
Bohlig when he fell, is featured in
Episode 10 of the Sharp End podcast:
0 1950 "The 69th Summit."
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, 2011
Fall into Crevasse,
Washington, Washington,
Mount Rainier, Mount Rainier,
Emmons Emmons Glacier
Glacier
On July 27, a climbing party of four,
including a father, his two teen-aged
sons, and Lee Adams (52), was
descending the Emmons glacier when
one of the climbers tripped and fell.
This caused the other climbers to be
0 1951
swept off their feet and, despite
 Fall on Snow, Faulty Use of Crampons,2011
Unable toNew
Self-Arrest, New Hampshire,
Hampshire, Mount Washington, Lion
Mount Washington,
Lion Head
On March 6, a hiker was descending
the steep section of Lion Head trail
when snow had balled up in his
crampons and he fell approximately
50 feet, injuring his lower leg. While
bystanders began to haul him down
0 1952
the trail, the Snow Ranger that was
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Inexperience,
2011 Wyoming,
FALL Grand Teton
ON SNOW, UNABLENational Park, Paintrush Divid
TO SELF-
ARREST, INEXPERIENCE

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park,

Paintbrush Divide

On July 18, at about 1350, Stewart

Laing (47) slid about 30 feet on snow,
0 1953
then cart-wheeled another 75-100 feet
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Oregon,
2011 Mount Hood,near
"Oregon,
on talus Southside
MounttheHood,
summitSouthside
of
While descending the Mazama Chute
variation of the Southside route at
7:00 a.m. on July 7, Bryan Call (25)
lost his footing and fell about 200 feet
because he was unable to self-arrest.
His slide ended at the Hot Rocks
area. He had multiple abrasions, a
0 1954
sore elbow, and a knee injury.
Fall on Snow/Ice, Ski Mountaineering, Oregon,
2011 Mount Hood
Oregon, Mount Hood
On June 15, while ski traversing the
Coe glacier at about the 9500-foot
elevation, Robert Wiebe (58) went out
ahead of his
Kentucky, RedtwoRiver
companions and
Gorge, Muir
apparently slipped during a turn.
Valley
Another
On Octoberparty19,ofafour Hood(age
climber River Crag
Rats saw him fall about
unknown) lounging on a boulder700 feet.
0 1956
They
under a route at the Solariumskied
notified authorities and was
Falling Rock, Poor Position, Kentucky, 2011
Red River Gorge, Muir Valley
struck in the head and shoulder by a
rock that had been dislodged by a
climber above on an overhanging
route. The injured party was given first
aid treatment and delivered to an
ambulance outside the Valley.
(Source: From a post on
0 1957 www.redriverclimbing.com)
HAPE — Exacerbated by Pre-Existing Chest
2011 Cold, Washington,Mount
Washington, MountRainier,
Rainier, Emmons
Emmons Route
Route
On July 11 at 0930, Mount Rainier
National Park received a distress call
from three climbers high (13,500-foot
level) on the Emmons Route. One of
the climbers (30) was having difficulty
walking and was showing signs and
0 1960
symptoms of high altitude pulmonary
 Ice Collapsed, Fall on Ice, Climbing Alone
2011and Unroped, North Carolina,
North Carolina, Blue Ridge
Blue Ridge Parkway, Doughton
Parkway,
Doughton Park
The body of Ralph Fickle (59), an
experienced climber and guide, was
found on March 4 about 200 feet
below the Blue Ridge Parkway, a half-
mile south of the Bluffs Restaurant at
Doughton Park. Apparently, Ralph
0 1961
was free-soloing Farmer’s Daughter.
Ice Column Collapse — Fall on Ice, Late2011
Season, Wyoming,
Wyoming, Yellowstone
YellowstoneNational
NationalPark, Grand Canyon of
Park,
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
On May 25, Mark Ehrich (28) and
Michael Kellch (29) died when a
frozen waterfall called Silver Cord
Cascade collapsed while they were
climbing it.
Steve Langlas, of the construction
0 1962
company Langlas and Associates,
Inadequate Belay, Fall on Rock, Idaho, 2011
City of Rocks National
Idaho,
which City ofReserve,
employed Rocks Parking
bothNational Lot Kellch
men, said Rock
Reserve, Parking Lot Rock
and Ehrich were childhood friends in
On August 19 Jeff Everett (49) was
lowered off the end of his seventy-
meter rope on “Delay of the Game.”
He fell at least 20-30 meters,
impacting ledges and a Mahogany
tree on the way and landed on the
0 1963
ground. He sustained multiple injuries
No Experience — Solo Climbing, Inadequate
2011 Equipment FallRed
Kentucky, on Rock,
RiverKentucky,
Gorge, Red River Gorge, Beach
Beachcomber
On February 13, Shaun Wilhoite (28)
was camping in the area with a large
group of friends. The group hiked to
Pebble Beach around 2:00 p.m. Upon
arriving, Shaun began to free-solo
Beachcomber (5.4) in leather hiking
0 1965
boots. His friends said he had no rock
Rock Foothold Came Loose — Fall on Rock,
2011 Washington, NorthNorth
Washington, Cascades, Vesper Vesper
Cascades, Peak
Peak
(The following account is edited from
a narrative submitted by Steph
Abegg, 27.)
At 5:00 a.m. on September 14, I
pulled up at my sister Jenny’s house
in Seattle. We were on our way to
0 1966
what we planned to be a fun and
Severe Weather — Frostbite, Hypothermia,
2011Communication
Washington, Problems,
Mount Washington, Mount Rainier, Ingrah
Rainier, Ingraham
Glacier
On the evening of May 20, a report
came into Camp Muir describing a
bad scene in which a guided team of
twelve (four guides and eight clients)
and another group of four guides
(different company) were pinned
0 1967
down on the Ingraham Glacier in
 Slip on Rock, Rappel Error — Poor Technique,
2011 Inadequate Instruction
Virginia, Hidden and Supervision, Virginia, Hidden R
Rocks
On September 11, guides were
managing a rappel at the top of the
route Snowblower. A climber became
nervous stepping over the edge,
slipped to the left of observers, spun
several times, and struck her head on
the rock.
0 1968
Guides responded by activating a
Stranded, Poor Rappel Technique, Colorado,
2011 Flatirons
Colorado,
rescue beaconFlatirons
and rappelling to the
During
unconscious climberoftoOn
the morning December
render aid. A
28, Kevin
cervical Mines
collar was(53) and his son
improvised to (16)
started climbing the Third Flatiron.
Later in the day while descending,
Kevin injured his back rappelling and
was unable to hike out. He called for
assistance via cell phone at 10:16
0 1969
p.m.
Stranded, Rope Stuck, North Carolina, The
2011Amphitheater, Linville The
North Carolina, Gorge Wilderness Area
Amphitheater,
Linville Gorge Wilderness Area
Two climbers with limited experience
on moderate trad routes planned on
spending several days camping and
climbing at Linville Gorge. On
November 23, they hiked in and
began climbing Good Heavens (5.4),
0 1970
located in the Amphitheater. Their
Stuck Rappel Rope, Fall on Rock, Inadequate
2011 Equipment
Beth M.— Boots,
Davis Colorado,
(52) Boulder
fell while tryingCanyon,
to Bihedral W
retrieve a stuck rappel rope after
climbing in Boulder Canyon on
October 31. Davis and her partner
were rappelling on the Upper Bihedral
Wall. Once on the ground, they began
to pull the rope. The rope became
stuck on a spot roughly halfway up
0 1971
the rappel route. Davis scrambled up
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone, Off Route,
2011
No Climbing
Wyoming,Experience, Wyoming,
Grand Teton GrandPark,
National Teton National Park
Garnet Canyon
On July 20, Jillian Drow (21) fell to her
death while descending into the South
Fork of Garnet Canyon after an
ascent of the Middle Teton.
Drow was a member of a party of
eight that left the Lupine Meadows
0 1972
Trailhead at approximately 0500.
Lightning — Ignored Cloud Build Up, Poor
2011Position, Fallpeople
Wyoming,
Seven on Grand
Rock, Unknown
Tetonon
planned Rappel Park,
National
climbing Error
the — Exacerbate
Grand Teton
Prior to the beginning of this storm,
members of all parties described an
awareness of the approaching clouds.
A series of lightning strikes shocked
several people and the parties
decided to sit tight in hopes that the
0 1973
storm would pass quickly. The storm
 Slip on Rock — Boulder Field, Wyoming, 2011
Grand Wyoming,
Teton National
GrandPark, Garnet
Teton CanyonPark,
National Boulder Field
Garnet Canyon Boulder Field
On July 22, in the early afternoon, I
received a call from Exum Mountain
Guide Trevor Deighton. He said that a
member of his party had sustained an
isolated right lower leg injury while
descending through the Boulder Field
0 1974
in Garnet Canyon. The patient, Scott
Altitude Illness, Exhaustion, Climbing Alone
2012 — Separated
On June from Party Alaska,
6 at 2000, Mount McKinley, Denali P
Park Ranger
Tucker Chenoweth was descending
from 19,500 feet with four volunteers
when they observed solo climber
Zeljko Dulic (27), of the Expedition
Serbia Denali, who appeared to be
suffering from an altitude-related
illness. Based on a rapid physical
0 1976
exam, Chenoweth decided to have
Avalanche — Fall on Snow Alaska, Denali2012National
OnPark,
May Mount
23 twoFrances
Japanese climbers,
Jiro Kurihara (33) and Junya Shiraishi
(28), were reported a day overdue
after they left Denali Base Camp in an
attempt to climb Mount Frances a few
days prior. NPS rangers took a recon
flight around Mount Frances for signs
of the climbing party and spotted
0 1977
some dark shapes in what appeared
Avalanche, No Belay Anchor Colorado,2012Ten MileDuring
Canyon,the
The Shroud
mid-morning of January
17, while two climbers were top roping
The Shroud ice climb (WI3-4), an
avalanche from above the climb
flowed through the area. The climber
on the ice at the time was generally
protected just below the top of the ice
flow and the avalanche ran over him.
0 1978
The belayer was not anchored and
Dislodged Rock — Falling Rock Colorado,2012Shelf IRoad
was belaying my partner on January
16. We were climbing a new route not
in the guidebook when he kicked off a
baseball-sized rock from
approximately 60 feet up. It made a
direct hit, striking the center of my
skull! Luckily I was wearing a helmet.
We recognized the potential for loose
0 1980
rock before getting on the climb.
Fall on Rock — Incomplete Tie-In Knot, 2012
Colorado, EldoradoEldorado
Colorado, Canyon State Park State
Canyon
Park
On May 28, Colin Gregg (34) was top-
roping the first pitch of C’est La Vie
(5.9) on Redgarden Wall. He had
difficulty at a crux about 30 feet off the
starting belay ledge (which is about 25
feet above ground level) and partially
0 1981
hung on the rope. The belayer
 for a shattered pelvis, dislocated
elbow, and significant blood loss.
Analysis
There were two classic errors and one
related problem here.
Fall on Rock — Poor Communication Colorado,
2012 First,
Clear the climber
Creek
On Tuesday May did
Canyon 17,not make sure
American Alpine
that both ends of his
Club (AAC) Executive Director rope werePhil
on the
ground
Powers before
(50) tookrigging
four his rappel
of his
device. Second,
employees—Keegan Young, he did not tiePenn
a knot
in the end of this rope,
Burris, Sarah Wood, and Deanne which would
have prevented at
Buck—climbing him fromWire
High rappelling
Crag in
off
CleartheCreek
end. Canyon, a popular and
The womansport
accessible who climbing
had belayedareahimneardid
0 1982 not
the remain attentive until
AAC headquarters in her climber
Golden. The
Fall on Rock — Poor Communication, Colorado,
2012 Eldorado
was backCanyon
Colorado, the State
Eldorado
on Park,
Canyon
ground. The
Had Bastille
State
she not
Park, The Bastille
been distracted by other climbers in
On July
the area,9,sheDarrell
mayKangiser
have noticed(25) that
lead
the first
one strandpitch
of of
theThe Bastille
rappel ropeCrack
had not
(5.8). When
reached the he arrived
ground andatcould
the anchor
have
(~35
let herfeet aboveknow
partner the ground),
that fact.his
belayer (23)
(Source: Rickthought
Weber)he saw the
leader signal
(Editor’s Note:that
TheheMuirwasValley
off belay, so
0 1983
the belayer
Climbing andletNature
go. The leader leaned
Preserve is one
Fall on Rock — Rappel Error, Uneven Ropes,
2012 No Knot on Rope End, Distraction Kentucky, Red River Go
of the more popular climbing areas in
the Eastern U.S. with more than
30,000 visitors in 2011. Muir’s seven
miles of cliff line attract climbers from
all over the world to its 350+ sport and
trad routes. Rick and Liz Weber
founded Muir in 2004 when it was
0 1984 opened at no charge to the public.)
Fall on Rock — Rappel/Lowering Error,2012
Poor Communication,
On September Haste
12, California,
Jody (27) Tuolumne
and Meadows, Low
Karen (24) spent the day climbing in
Tuolumne Meadows with friends Dan
and Sanjay. In the afternoon they all
hiked up to Low Profile Dome, a few
minutes from the road. Jody and
Karen climbed the Golfer’s Route
(5.7) while Dan led Family Affair (5.9)
0 1985
just to their left, and then Sanjay and
Fall on Rock, Belayer Takes Hand Off Rope,
2012 Kentucky,
Kentucky, Red Red
RiverRiver
GorgeGorge
On Friday, March 4, I (name and age
not on post) was climbing at The
Motherlode on a route called Kick Me
in the Jimmie (5.12) when I fell late in
the day. The last fall of the last climb
of the day should have been a
routine, clean ~ 12-foot leader fall
0 1986
onto the fifth bolt. After the expected
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone, Darkness,
2012
Colorado,
JoeElYearm
Diente (28)
Peakwas descending El
Diente Peak (14,159 feet) in the San
Juan National Forest alone after dark
on Saturday July 16 when he fell 20
feet into a snowfield and fractured his
leg. Yearm spent the night in the
snow until he began crawling Sunday
morning. Two other climbers in the
0 1987
area discovered him, one of whom
 the hole in the top of his ascenders
and asked, “Do you do any backups?”
But Taylor is a polite fellow and didn’t
push the issue or suggest tying in
short to the rope.
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone, Failure to MaintainWe
2012 knowof
Control
"Nevada, that
Red climbers
Rope,
Rock don’twith
Unfamiliar
Canyon always
NCA, Device, No Back-Up
back themselves
Tunnel Vision up while ascending,
both in Yosemite
On February 4, a Valley and had
male climber
elsewhere,
been rope soloing the 5.9 bolted in
but this has resulted first
several accidents
pitch variation that were
to Tunnel otherwise
Vision when
preventable.
he decided toThe discussion
retreat following
at the fourth bolt
Tommy’s
due to thetrip report
pitch being onharder then
SuperTopo.com
anticipated. When is rappelling,
one place to hestart.
0 1988 (Search trip reports
experienced difficultyforwith
Crisis
thein device
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Route, Colorado,
2012 Clear Creek Clear
"Colorado,
Yosemite.) Canyon Creek Canyon
Andy
We hope (28)that
andbothhis partner
of themTamie
will be(28)a
were
bit moreclimbing at Canal
aggressive whenZone during
providing
the evening
advice to theirof climbing
June 21. partners
Andy had after
clipped
this the last bolt on Holiday Road
incident.
(5.8)
A and of
couple was climbing to
self-rescue anchors on
suggestions.
a slabby
After headwall
a fall with minimal
like Tommy’s, consider holds.
He was toathe
providing left with
belay of thethebolt
tagline when
line, and
0 1989
he slipped
even then fell. Hehaul,
a counter-weight mostto likely
protect
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, California,
2012 Yosemite Valley, Washington Column
and assist your freaked-out partner as
he ascends the potentially damaged
lead line. In addition, Tommy was
carrying both cell phones and both
headlamps in the daypack. Now they
each carry their own all the time.
(Source: Tommy, Taylor, and John
0 1990 Dill, NPS Ranger)
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Complacency
2012 On California,
August 12th,Yosemite Valley,
my long timeThe Rostrum
climbing partner (27) and I, Bud Miller
(27), set off to climb the 1000-foot
North Face of The Rostrum (8
pitches, IV 5.11c). The route was new
to both of us and sure to push our
limits, but it’s considered relatively
safe due to its protectable cracks and
0 1991
steep, clean falls. Although we weren’t
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Nevada,
2012 RedNevada,
Rock Canyon NCA, Canyon
Red Rock Pine CreekNCA, Canyon
Pine Creek Canyon

On March 12, around 1:00 p.m., there

was a serious leader fall on the lower
section of the third pitch (the long 5.8
corner) of the route Dark Shadows on
the Mescalito Formation in the Pine
0 1992
Creek Canyon area. It seems that the
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Unable
2012 to Communicate with Partner,
Colorado, Buena Colorado, Buena Vista Crags
Vista Crags
On September 26, I was
approximately 18 feet up a dihedral
that was maybe 22 feet tall, about to
make the crux move on a route (name
unknown, left of Pump Station at
Buena Vista crags). I had relatively
good gear with my last piece being
0 1993
maybe seven feet below me, when
 and
whenhitting the ground
he unclipped his with
tether,mythere
right
leg
wasand then to
nothing mykeep butt.himFortunately
from freethe
rope
fallinggot to tight at the very
the ground. He has last no
second,
so I didn’t fully
recollection impact the
of climbing thatground.
day soBut he
still,
cannot I broke
provide my any pelvis and two as to
information
Fall on Rock, Inexperience, Failed to Thread
2012 Rope Through Anchors, Kentucky, Red River Gorge
vertebrae.
why he failed to clean correctly.
Analysis
Even though he suffered horrific
Here
massive is why I think
internal this happened.
injuries and traumatic
First
brain injury, he survived thedistracted
of all, my belayer got fall. He
as
spentsoon as I decided
months to rest forand
in rehabilitation a few
seconds.
physical therapyI saw him andtalking
has made with people
a
while I started
substantial falling. (Source:
recovery. Second, Rick there
0 1994 was
Weber) too much slack in the rope,
Fall on Rock, Ledge Breaks Beneath Climber's
2012 Feet,because
On Colorado,
Sunday it doesn’t
Rocky make
August Mountain sense
28, Keith to
National
Brett Park, Longs Pea
take a 12-meter
(29) fell from thefall, North when you’rewhile
Chimney only
one meter above
simul-climbing with thehisbolt. Third,
partner he
Matt.
told me that, as
Their intention was to climb soon as he realized I
was falling, he grabbed
Pervertical Sanctuary (5.10d–5.1 la). the rope
above
Here isand howbelowKeiththe Grigri, his
described
compromising
incident: its activation.
The
Before morallightis(probably
to pay attentionaroundto what
5:15
0 1995 you are doing. Always confirm that
a.m.), we were approximately 100 feet
Fall on Rock, Off Route, Party Separated
2012
— Climbing
from Alone,
California,
your belayer
Broadway Inadequate
Kings
knows Canyon
Ledge. howClothing,
toNational
I was belay Exceeding Abilities, C
above
Park,
properly. Thunderbolt
and thereThe wereGrigri Peak
threecan be apieces of
to four
On Augustbelay
deceiving 21, RobertdeviceLevinto use(62),
for the
Steven Most (60’s),
inexperienced. Someand Mathew
think it works Most
by
(20s) hiked from South
itself and don’t pay attention to how itLake to camp
in Dusy Basin
functions in theincorrect
Kings Canyon
way!
National Park planning
I’ve been climbing for more to climb
than ten
Thunderbolt
years Peak (14,003-feet)
and consider myself to be in the
0 1996
Palisades via This
experienced. the Southwest
was the first Chute
time #2
Fall on Rock, Poor Communication, Inadequate
2012 Belay — Distracted, Kentucky, Red River Gorge
climbing
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTIONdidn’t
with this person, so we
know
PULLED each other
OUT, well enough, and
INADEQUATE
there
PROTECTIONwas probably lack of
communication. It wouldn’t happen to
me with myRed
Kentucky, usual Riverclimbing
Gorge, mates.
Muir
(Source: Edited from a report by
Valley
Francesco Peci)
0 1997 On April 22, a male climber (40) was
Fall on Rock, Protection Came Off California,
2012 Yosemite
nearingValley,
Although topElclimbed
I had
the ofCapitan,
a short Muir
several Wall
dihedral walls
on
in Zion, I had never climbed
a trad route called “Short and Sweet” El
Capitan;
(5.7), located in fact,at Ithe had never even
Practice Wall. He
been to the Valley. Yosemite,
took a lead fall, causing his upper and El
Capitan in pieces
protection particular, to pophadout,been built
causing
up intomy
him hitmind,
the ground.the ultimate
He sustained a
destination
crushed and theHe
vertebra. ultimate goal.
was carefully
Finally, on onto
packaged Junea3,spine I arrived
board, in placed
0 1998
Yosemite
in a litter, and Valley with fivetoweeks
delivered to
an awaiting
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inadequate
2012 Protection, Kentucky,
climb. I carefully Red River
packed eightGorge,
days Muir Valley
helicopter.
worth of supplies, gear, ropes, and
Analysis

This accident was caused by

tenuously placed gear. The climber
commented that he should have put in
0 2000 more pieces. (Source: Rick Weber)
 available for the descent. A common
tactic is for groups to place carabiners
on the 20-24 fixed pickets on the
Autobahn and leave them in place for
the day, only removing them after
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No2012
Hard Hatthey
Colorado,
Reid pass Boulder
Pletcher
by (22),
the Canyon,
and I time
second Practice
(Mali Noyes)
on Rock
the
were climbing
descent. If the together
leader ofon May does
a rope 26.
Thishave
not was extra
goingcarabiners
to be our last climb of
available
the day.
and noneHe arewaswithleading the climb,
the pickets, then
placing
they do gear
not haveas hethe ascended.
means toWhen use
he
the fixed protection. With a clientwall,
was about 20–30 feet up the
he unexpectedly
leading a rope team fell.andAt this point, he
responsible
had four trad pieces in, but
for assuring that protection is clipped, the top
0 2001
two pulled out. He landed
the guide may not be aware of the on the rock
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error — No Knot 2012
on RopedColorado,
End, No Hard Hat, Inexperience,
Eldorado Canyon State Colorado, Eldorado Ca
type, quality, or absence of protection
Park
on the rope. The NPS and guide
During the afternoon of December 17,
companies have tried different
Dalton Jones (18) and his female
solutions to keep carabiners fixed to
partner (17) were climbing Rewritten
the pickets and they still disappear.
(5.7), a six-pitch climb on the
We don’t know if the guide left
Redgarden Wall. Jones successfully
carabiners in place and was expecting
led the first pitch, established an
0 2003 them to be available for descent, or if
anchor, and began belaying his
Fall on Rock, Rockfall, Colorado, Poudre
2012 her gear may
CanyonColorado, haveCanyon
Poudre been removed by
other teams, but
Late in the day on May it is a likely
23 a scenario.
female
Another
climber (31)possible cause of
was injured whenconfusion
she
was
was the presence
struck by a rock of two
and trails on the
fell about 20
Autobahn.
feet in Poudre TheCanyon,
older trailwhich usedisin
previous
northwestyears of Fortwas not favored
Collins. She or
maintained
suffered a brokendue to ankle,
an open crevasse
a crushing
midway
injury to her hand, and head trail for
up the slope. The new
0 2004 2011 took a Shehigher route than anormal
lacerations. was wearing
Fall on Rock, Unfinished Tie-in Knot Arkansas,
2012 Horseshoe
On October
and Canyon Ranch
8, a female
was maintained climberinonearly
beginning
top-rope
May fellfirst
by the fromguided
near the top of what
teams.
is believed toclimbers
Descending be Earl’sonRevengeseveral (5.8).
Unconscious
occasions thisbut
yearstillunintentionally
breathing, she
suffered
took a fractured
the lower route,forearm
which did andnot
possible
have spinal
pickets forcord injury since
protection. she
The lead
could not move her feet
climber of the Alpine Ascents rope on command.
She
teamwas maycarried on a backboard
have moved onto this lowerto a
0 2005
waiting helicopter and flown
trail and found no pickets available. to the
Fall on Snow — Failure to Clip in to Fixed
2012Rope Alaska, Mount McKinley, Denali Pass
Debrief point: This was a resource-
intensive rescue at high elevation with
critically injured patients. A large team
of 14 experienced and acclimatized
rescuers was instrumental in the
favorable outcome of the two
survivors. (Source: Kevin Wright,
0 2006 Mountaineering Ranger)
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, 2012
Climbing On
Unroped Alaska, Mt.
the morning of MayMcKinley,
16 at 0545,Denali Pass
the Angolo Dell’ Avventura Expedition
team of Luciano Colombo (67), Mauro
Colombo, and Paolo Civera left the
17,200-foot camp for a summit
attempt. While gearing up to leave,
they decided they would not rope up
for ascending the Autobahn, but
0 2007
brought their rope in case they felt like
 Fall on Snow, Climbing Alone in Severe2012
WeatherOnConditions Alaska,
the evening Mount28,
of June McKinley,
a guidedWest Buttress
group at high camp radioed NPS
rangers at the 14,200-foot camp to
report that a solo climber had been on
the upper mountain for more than 24
hours and had not yet returned to his
tent at high camp. NPS rangers
notified Talkeetna personnel of the
0 2008
potential need for a search and
Fall on Snow, Fatigue, Frostbite, Exposure
2012Alaksa,
On Denali
May National
12, duringPark, Mount McKinley,
a Mountain Trip West Buttress
expedition led by guide Dave Staehli
(56), Jeremiah O’Sullivan (40)
suffered a fall while descending Pig
Hill at approximately the 19,700-foot
level, below the summit of Denali.
During the fall, he broke his leg and
others suffered minor injuries. A
0 2009
different client in the same party had
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Failure
2012 to Turn Back, Exceeding
Colorado, Abilities,National
Rocky Mountain Colorado, Rocky Mountai
Park, Mount Meeker
On Saturday, January 29, Eric, Ward,
Ned, Arnold and I were planning on
attempting Mount Meeker (13,911
feet) via the Iron Gates route that
eventually diverges from the Chasm
Lake trail and follows a generally
0 2010
Class-2 ridge to one of the summits.
Falling Rock — Pulled Flake Off, Fall on
2012
Rock, Off-Route,
California,Haste, California,
Yosemite Yosemite
Valley, Half Valley, Half Dom
Dome
Early in the morning of September 19,
Markus Praxmarer (48) and Thomas
Wanner (30) began a one-day ascent
of the Regular Northwest Face route
on Half Dome (23 pitches, VI 5.9 C1).
A New Zealand party preceded them
0 2011
and two other groups, Canadian and
Falling Rock, Failure to Test Hold, Seated
2012Belayer, Colorado,Shelf
Colorado, ShelfRoad
Road
Despite the rain and a recent shoulder
dislocation, Joe (32) and Chris (35)
decided to keep their plans to climb at
Shelf Road to celebrate the end of a
hard semester of grad school. Joe
was interested is scoping out the area
and they were glad that the injury
0 2012
would force Chris and their friend
Ice Avalanche Alaska, Denali National 2012
Park, Moose's Tooth,
On April 24,Root
BenCanal Glacier
Kiessel (27), Chris
Scharf (38) and Chris Lackey (39)
landed on the Root Canal Glacier
below the South Face of the Moose’s
Tooth with the intention of climbing
the “Ham and Eggs” route. On April
27, they had climbed up to the eighth
pitch and turned around due to thin
0 2014
ice conditions. Upon returning to
 Illness — Cardiac Difficulties Alaska, Mount
2012 McKinley,
On June West
7 atButtress
0836, an NPS
mountaineering patrol enroute to the
high camps encountered a 58 year-
old male climber at approximately
7,000 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier
experiencing significant chest pain
and labored breathing. The patient
reported a history of cardiac
0 2015
problems, including a prior heart
Off Route, Fall on Rock — Protection Pulled
2012 When
OnWeighted, Inadequate
May 31, Maeve Protection,
Devlin (19) andComplacency
I, Califo
John-Mark Toth (22), hiked up to the
classic Snake Dike route. From the
base of the climb I led up the
polished, low angle fourth class
section to the 5.7 traverse that goes
left under the roof. Here I placed my
first piece, a .75 Camalot. “Bomber!” I
0 2016
thought. When I looked at the
Protection Pulled When Weighted — Fall 2012
on Rock, California,
California, YosemiteValley,
Yosemite Valley,El
El Capitan
Capitan
On September 26, Michael
Schmoelzer (52) and Ritchie
Edelsbacher (44), both experienced
climbers from Austria, were in their
third day of an ascent of The Nose
(31 pitches, 5.9 C1). By 3:00 p.m.
0 2017
they had passed the Great Roof and
Slip on Steep Snow, Climbing Alone, Climbing
2012 Unroped,
Colorado, Inadequate Equipment/Clothing,
Rocky Mountain National Colorado, Rock
Park (RMNP), Longs Peak
On July 22 at about 1300 hours a 68
year-old solo climber notified RMNP
Dispatch that he had taken a 30-foot
fall on steep snow at the junction of
Lambslide Couloir and Broadway and
had injured his shoulder while self-
0 2018
arresting. He was able to make it to a
Stranded — Inadequate Equipment, Colorado,
2012 Eldorado Canyon
Colorado, State Park
Eldorado Canyon State
Park
On September 3, a male (29) and
female (30) climbed The Yellow Spur
(5.9/5.10) on Redgarden Wall. When
the climbers topped- out, they asked
the party just ahead of them (the
second party of climbers) if they
1 2019
would wait so they all could descend
Stranded — Rope Stuck, Poor Communication
2012 — Wind, Inexperience California, Yosemite Valley, Sunny
After an hour of getting nowhere,
Peter called the NPS for help. The
ranger taking the call asked if Peter
could rappel or Prusik down and free
the rope. Peter replied that he didn’t
want to rappel and didn’t know how to
Prusik. Ranger Scott obviously didn’t
0 2020
want to force the issue, so two
 Stranded, Climbing Alone, Free Solo Climbing,
2012 Off Route, Inadequate
Colorado, Equipment, Colorado, First Flatiron
First Flatiron
Late in the afternoon on December 10
Xavier Rojas (20) became stranded
while free soloing the Direct
(Standard) East Face (5.6), a six-
pitch route on the First Flatiron.
According to authorities, Rojas was
about 500 feet up the face when the
1 2021
temperature started falling and the
Stranded, Darkness, Poor Planning, Colorado,
2012 Boulder Canyon,
Colorado, CastleCanyon,
Boulder Rock Castle
Rock
On October 24, Gary Hansen (54)
and his daughter Kate (17) became
stranded on Castle Rock on a ledge
200 feet up the East Face after dark
as they attempted to rappel. A rescue
climber from the Rocky Mountain
1 2022
Rescue Group climbed over Castle
Stranded, Fatigue, Inadequate Water, Inexperience
2012 OnCalifornia, Yosemite
July 3, Cindy Valley,
Lu (32) andRoyal
I, LeoArches
Wu (35), climbed Royal Arches.
Despite it being our first really long
climb, it had gone well. After starting
at 5:30 a.m. we reached the first
rappel at 4:30 p.m. Sunset was at
8:30 p.m., and we expected to be
down in an hour or two, so we had
0 2023
plenty of daylight. We were happy and
Stranded, Unfamiliar with Descent, Colorado,
2012 Eldorado Canyon
Colorado, State Park
Eldorado Canyon State
Park
On October 15, rescuers were notified
that two overdue climbers, Nicholas
Kainrath (22) and Bryan Karban (23),
were stranded on a rock climb in the
Canyon. A search was started and the
climbers were located. The two
1 2024
advised members of Rocky Mountain
Avalanche — Triggered by Climber, New 2012
Hampshire,
New Mount Washington,
Hampshire, MountPinnacle Gully
Washington,
Pinnacle Gully
On March 10 shortly after 10:30 a.m.,
a solo ice climber (31) fell
approximately 1,150 feet after
triggering an avalanche in Pinnacle
Gully. The avalanche deposited him at
the bottom of the area known as the
0 2026
“Fan” about 50 feet below the debris
Avalanche, Poor Position, Weather, Inexperience,
2012 Wyoming, Cody
Wyoming, Cody South
SouthFork,
Fork,Deer
DeerCreek
Creek
On January 28, we were halfway
down a steep 400-foot gully on our
way to Deer Creek, where we would
then walk downstream to the Ghosts,
a couple of WI 3+/4 routes that I had
done ten years earlier. The gully is a
0 2027
popular alternative to the steeper,
 even in a National
unfamiliar with the Park,route where
and would rescue
services are more readily
have been climbing solo through available, it
will take hours for responders
glaciated terrain had they split up. to arrive
due to the logistics
It’s possible that Plankerassociated
tried to with
stand
access, helicopter availability,
up, and in the process, yanked his
2012 Tetonpersonnel
Avalanche, Poor Position, Wyoming, Grand National
Wyoming,
anchor numbers,
Park,
Grand
upwards Meadows
Teton
and etc. In Garnet
of a situation
outNational
prior Canyon
to Park,
where
Meadows
falling, minutes count,
of Garnet
as the anchorCanyon it is imperative
material was not
that
found climbers
On April on18, be by
Grand
scene able to execute
Teton
searchers. National a
self-rescue.
Parkparty’s
The received Even if
a report
decision substantial
to of
nottwotake injuries
overdue
a
exist, being
backcountry able to provide
communication device, while the
skiers who were patient
in
care
park (such
to ski in
admirable assome
the maintaining
Grand Teton.
sense, a patient’s
may The have
airway,
also increased the time requiredisto
resulting providing
search warmth,
for the two etc.)
men
critical
would
get help. to As
a patient’s
eventually
it was, span wellbeing
the seven
NPS was in the
days,
0 2028 hours to follow. Clearly, doing so may
encompass all of Garnet
already poised to initiate a Canyon to
Exhaustion — Possible AMS or HACE,2012Fall on Ice/Snow,
pose some Weather,
risk to Washington,
the Mount Rainier, Liberty R
self-rescuers,
search,which sped up the overall
especially
response, ifbut they are to
sadly, operating
no avail. The
beyond
lesson here is to bring a level. In this
their experience
case, rescuing their
communication device fallen
- andpartner
to usemay it
have posed significant
appropriately. (Source: Brian Haseberisk due to
their
– Park inexperience,
Ranger, Themuch NewsasTribune,
the
climber who descended
Tacoma, WA, and Mount Rainier alone to seek
0 2029 help through
News Releases) heavily crevassed,
unfamiliar terrain, exposed himself to
Fall into Crevasse, Climbing 2012
significant risk. Self-rescue requires
Unroped, Unfamiliar with Route,
having a practiced action plan, good
Party Separated, Inexperience,
communication, and foresight to avoid
Washington, Mount Rainier,
an “incident within an incident”.
Fuerer Finger
(Source: Brian Hasebe – Park
Washington, Mt. Rainier, Fuhrer
Ranger, The News Tribune, Tacoma,
Finger
WA, and Mount Rainier News
0 2030 Releases)
Fall on Rock — Ascender Threaded Incorrectly,
2012 Dehydration,
New Hampshire, New Hampshire,
Cathedral Ledge, Cathedral Ledge, The Prow
The Prow
On August 8, a climber (40s) from
Center Conway survived a 100-foot
fall at Cathedral Ledge.
The Prow ascends the nose directly
below the fenced-in viewing area at
the top of the cliff. It’s renowned both
0 2031
as a free climb and as a popular aid
Fall on Rock — Hiking Turns into Climbing
2012 Terrain, Inexperience,
Oregon, Oregon, North Sister
North Sister
On September 24, Brian C. Jones
(37) slipped on the 35-degree friable
volcanic rock slope below the summit
of North Sister and tumbled down
about 1,000 vertical feet to his death.
Jones “…was scrambling on some of
the terrain near his climbing partner
0 2032
and he slipped, started sliding, and
Edited Title: FALL ON SNOW – LOSS2012 OF CONTROL
FALL
then cart ONwheeled
ON GLISSADE,
SNOW –down
LOSS INEXPERIENCE
theOF Wyoming, G
CONTROL ON GLISSADE,
INEXPERIENCE

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park,

Nez Perce

On August 11 between 1100 and

0 2033
1600, Grand Teton National Park
rangers and Teton Interagency Heli-
tack personnel performed a 1,200-
 awkward and difficult. Though it’s
considered a relatively easy route, a
mistake made along any portion of
this climb while unroped will have dire
consequences. It should also be
Fall on Rock — No Knot on End of Rope,2012 noted
North Carolina, that this route
Rumbling
North Carolina, rarelyBald
Bald
Rumbling sees solo
ascents from climbers
On December 18, my climbing who have not
already climbed it roped.
partner, Adam (33), and I (34) were
To climb Walk
climbing the Grand This Way Teton(5.1lb)
in one day
is an undertaking
located in the Hanging Chain not to be taken
area of
lightly. It is typically
Rumbling Bald. Neither of us had only accomplished
by
donevery fit climb
this individuals
before. who
Ourare plan was
acclimatized
for Adam to lead and theknow the route
route, lower,well.pull
0 2034 At
thealtitudes
rope, and greater
then Ithan would 10,000
lead the feet,
Fall on Rock — Overconfidence on Fourth-Class
2012 Terrain, Washington,
Washington,
rational decisions Northcan North
Cascades,Cascades,
be more Washington Pass
difficult
Washington Pass
to make. Ivie lived at an altitude of
The plan
about 1,300 of the feet.day He(August
had arrived 13) wasin
to do
the a bunchHole
Jackson of routes
area lesson the thanEarly
24
Winterprior
hours Spires fromstart
to the 5.6 of
to his
5.9.climb.
We
were on
Ivie’s the ascent/descent
footwear was not adequate gully for
traila
to the of
climb colthis
betweennature,Liberty
nor was Bellit and
Concord tower
designed in goodontime.
for climbing rock.Racking
With
0 2035
up, we
this typeraced
of hikingup Becky’s
boot, a route
slip on asthe a
Fall on Rock — Poor Communication, Texas,
2012 Enchanted
Texas, Rock Enchanted State Natural Area Natural
Rock State
rock would not be uncommon and
Area
would make vertical climbing much
On Saturday, April 16, several groups
more challenging.
of climbers were climbing at or in
Though the Owen-Spalding route was
close vicinity of the Echo Canyon and
free of snow, recent rain storms had
Triple Cracks area. These included a
passed through the area so, since this
group of six climbers from Austin,
part of the climb is not in the sun until
three climbers from Houston, a group
0 2036 late in the day, it is not unusual for
of approximately 15 Boy Scouts
Fall on Rock — Rappel Error, Oregon, Beacon
2012 Rocksmall patches
State
Oregon, Park
Beacon of ice,
RockVergas
State Parkor black
ice to develop in shady
On July 24, Nathan Turner (30) was portions of the
climb. Slipping on ice anywhere
on the second rappel of Jill’s Thrill at along
the
BeaconrouteRock.wouldBut also hecontribute
had threaded to a
fall.
the single rope through a fixed anchor
The
with most
both endslikely of factors
the ropeto contribute
over the to
this tragic outcome
ledge. This left the rope ends not were the
combination
visible. He then of poor judgment
mistakenly and
centered
0 2038 inexperience compounded by the lack
the rope on the manufacturer’s
Fall on Rock, Anchor Failure — Unfinished
2012 Knot,Virginia,
ofVirginia,
appropriate BlueRidge
Blue Ridge Parkway,
equipment Parkway, Ravens
RavensRoost
to safely
Roost,
ascend this route. Ivie’s strong desire
During
to havethe mid-afternoon
a successful attempton June
on the 15,
Jonathan Sullivan (20)
Grand Teton early in his trip appears fell
approximately
to have swayed100 hisfeet
sense to his
of death at
Ravens Roost
reasoning and Overlook
pushed him alongwellthe
Blue Ridge
beyond Parkway.This was not
his abilities.
He andatwo
simply case partners
of someone had been top-
attempting
0 2039
rope
a climbclimbing
unseen since
and 11:30
unknown. a.m.ItThe is
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone, Inexperience,
2012 Wyoming,
group was Grand Teton National
top-roping. SullivanPark,made
Grandit Teton
apparent that Ivie decided to ignore
about
the 100 feet
advice he was when he paused
given from a to
variety of experienced people.
All this having been said, we express
our heartfelt condolences to the
family, friends, and co-workers of this
fallen adventurer. (Source: Ranger
0 2040 Chris Harder – Incident Commander)
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Rope Pulls
2012Through
NorthBelay Device,Looking
Carolina, No Helmet, North
Glass Carolina, Looking G
Rock
On March 23 around 1:50 p.m., a
male climber (26) fell approximately
45 feet on the South Face of Looking
Glass Rock. He had led Good
Intentions (5.6) and traversed right to
a set of rappel bolts over the climb
Left Up, where he anchored to the
0 2041
bolts with the intent of being lowered.
Fall on Rock, Inadquate Protection, No 2012
Hard Hat,FALL
Oregon,
ONRocky
ROCK, Butte
INADEQUATE
PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT
Oregon, Rocky Butte
On May 14, while leading a fifth class
route, Christian Steiner (27) fell
approximately 50 feet, sustaining a
fatal head injury. It is believed that he
climbed well above his last protection
0 2042
placement before he lost his grip and
Fall on Rock, New Hampshire, Cathedral 2012
Ledge, Recompense
New Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge,
Recompense
On June 18, Mark Gallagher (48) was
climbing Recompense when he fell,
hit a ledge, and suffered a compound
fracture of his lower left leg. Gallagher
said he had climbed Recompense
several times before and he knew that
0 2044
he was heading into the most difficult
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, North Carolina,
2012Crowder's
NorthMountain
Carolina,State Park, Opinionated
Crowder’s Mountain
State Park, Opinionated
On November 23, a male climber (23)
fell while climbing Opinionated (5.9+)
on the Red Wall at Crowder’s
Mountain State Park. According to
reports, the climber was attempting to
clip the third of six bolts when he fell.
0 2045
Witnesses noted that the climber
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, West Virginia,
2012New River
WestGorge National
Virginia, New River
River Gorge
National River
On June 5th, a male climber (22) was
leading Layback and Enjoy It (5.10)
located at the Bubba City climbing
area. The following is a synopsis of
the most likely scenario that occurred
causing the fall of approximately 10–
0 2046
12 feet.
Fall on Rock, North Carolina, Pilot Mountain
2012 State Park Carolina, Pilot Mountain State
North
Park
On February 13, several others and I
witnessed a long fall that resulted in a
climber hitting the ground. I was
climbing Foreign Trade Zone while a
party of two was top-roping some
variation of Bat Out of Hell (5.11). The
0 2047
climber reached the top of the route
 Fall on Rock, Nut/Cam Pulled Out, Exceeding
2012 Abilities, Tennessee,
Tennessee, Sunset
Sunset Rock, Chikamauga and Chatta
Rock,
Chickamauga and Chattanooga
National Military Park
The park received a report of a
serious fall and injury to a male
climber (23) beneath Sunset Rock in
the park’s Lookout Mountain area on
the evening of July 27th. A pair of
0 2048
climbers started Friday the 13th
Fall on Rock, Off Route, North Carolina,
2012
Stone Mountain
North Carolina, Stone Mountain
On October 21, we approached the
base of Stone Mountain to climb U-
Slot (5.7) and then the Great Arch
(5.5). On our way to the climb, I
noticed two men moving rather slowly
across the boulder field at the base of
The Block Route and U-Slot. One of
0 2049
the men yelled down to me and the
Fall on Rock, Poor Communication, Virginia,
2012 Shenandoah
Virginia, National Park, National
Shenandoah Old Rag Mountain
Park,
Old Rag Mountain
Late on Sunday afternoon June 5, Old
Rag Mountain Stewards staff was
getting ready to start scenario training
when a call came into the park that
Dave Rockwell (50+) had taken a fifty-
foot fall on the Skyline (aka PATC)
0 2050
Wall.
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION
Out — Poorly Placed, Exceeding PULLED OUT - POORLY PLACED,
Abilities, No Hard Hat, Kentucky, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, NO HARD
Red River Gorge HAT
Kentucky, Red River Gorge
On October 22, my group and I
(Gram Parker – 40) were climbing in
the Long Wall area of Red River
0 2051
Gorge attempting Rock Wars (5.10a,
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Climbing
2012 Alone,
NorthNorth Carolina,
Carolina, Looking
Looking Glass
Glass Rock, Invisible Airw
Rock,
Invisible Airways
On the morning of April 12, Parker
Kempf (21) was attempting an all
clean aid (solo) ascent of Invisible
Airways (A2) on the north side of
Looking Glass Rock, his fourth time
on the route. He had full big wall set-
0 2052
up including a portaledge, which was
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inadequate
2012 Clothing
Oregon,and Equipment,
Marsupial Oregon, Marsupial Crags
Crags
On November 14, Aaron Seemen (32)
was climbing a 5.7, -mixed multipitch
climb with a frequent rock climbing
partner, Natalie Paden. He was
leading pitch-4 of a five5-pitch route
called “Birds in a Rut” on The Wombat
formation among the Marsupial
0 2053
Crags. He led up off a big belay
 Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, West
2012Virginia,
WestNewVirginia,
River Gorge
New National River
River Gorge
National River
During the evening of June 13, a
female (25) was climbing Biohazard
(5.10a) a 65’ trad route located on the
Fern Creek Party Wall. She was
almost at the top of the route when
she fell about 15 feet and slammed
0 2054
into the wall, knocking herself
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error, North Carolina,
2012 Rumbling
NorthBald, CerealRumbling
Carolina, Buttress Bald, Cereal
Buttress
It was July 2, 10:30 a.m. I had met
Joshua Haddock (29) only ten
minutes before I heard his body
impact the ground. Mike, Brian, his 15
year- old son Cole, and I had the
Cereal Buttress to ourselves. It was
0 2055
still shaded and cool despite a
Fall on Rock, Rope Jammed — So Slack 2012
in Rope,Wyoming,
Failure to Follow
Grand Instructions, Wyoming,
Teton National Park, Grand Teton N
Guides Wall
In mid-June around 1400, Dagmar
Rapp (47) was being guided up the
Double Crack on guides Wall and was
on the Flake Pitch. The guide had
combined the last two pitches and
was belaying from the top of the last
0 2056
pitch. The rope above Rapp had
Fall on Snow — Falling Ice Sheet Knocked
2012Climber Off, Climbing
Oregon, Unroped,
Mount Hood, Oregon, Mount Hood, South
Southside
On June 9, Meredith Jacques (30)
was ascending the Southside Route
with 11 others. They were at the
10,000-foot level near the summit
rocks when a “sliding sheet of ice”
knocked her from her stance,
resulting in a fall of about 300 feet.
0 2057
She sustained head, neck, and back
Fall on Snow — Loss of Control on Voluntary
2012 Glissade, Inadequate
Washington, Clothing
Mount andNear
Rainier, Equipment, Washington
Camp Muir
On the afternoon of July 17, a group
of friends from Fort Lewis Air Force
Base were coming down from Camp
Muir after a training climb for a later
summit attempt. Visibility was poor
that day, and at some point the party
0 2058
got sidetracked and began to descend
Fall on Snow — Ski Mountaineering, Unable
2012 to Self-Arrest,
Wyoming, Wyoming, Middle
Middle Teton, Teton, Ellingwood Couloir
Ellingwood
Couloir
At 0140 July 2, Ryan Redmond (32),
Ben Johnson, Rob Backlund, and
Kevin Salys departed the Lupine
Meadows trailhead intending to climb
and then ski the Ellingwood Couloir on
the south side of the Middle Teton in
0 2059
Grand Teton National Park. After an
 Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, 2012
Faulty UseNew
of Crampons,
Hampshire, New Hampshire,
Mount Mount Washington, Lio
Washington,
Lion Head
On April 4, one member of a group
was descending the Lion Head Winter
Route control of his glissade. He slid
an unknown length, impacted trees
along the way, and came to rest
wedged between two trees just above
0 2060
the first steep pitch on the route. The
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, 2012
Faulty UseFALL
of Crampons,
ON SNOW Wyoming, Gannet
– UNABLE TOPeak
SELF-ARREST, FAULTY USE OF
CRAMPONS
Wyoming, Gannet Peak
On August 10 about 1300, the
Sublette County Sheriff’s dispatch
center received a call from a party of
five on the summit ridge of Gannet
0 2061
Peak (13,804 feet). The party stated
Fall on Snow/Ice, Wyoming, Grand Teton2012
National Park, Teewinot
"Wyoming, Grand Teton National
Park, Teewinot
On June 4 about 0830, Jesse Stover
(39) slipped and fell about 2,000 feet
on the East Face route of Teewinot.
He was ascending the peak with two
other partners with the intent of skiing
the East Face. He was at the crux of
0 2062
the East Face, the Narrows, around
Falling Rock — Triggered by Party Above,
2012Poor Position, Washington,
"Washington, North Cascades, Forbidden Peak, W
North Cascades,
Forbidden Peak, West Ridge
About 6:30 pm. on August 18, Jay
Kullyman (42) and his partner had
completed the rappels of the gully
(climber’s) left of the standard couloir
on the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak.
They were standing on snow when
0 2063
they heard warnings of “Rock!” from
Intoxication — Fall on Rock, Free Solo2012
Climbing,West
WestVirginia,
Virginia,New
New River
River Gorge
GorgeNational River
National River
In early July about 11:45 a.m.,
Charles G. Fredricks Jr. (39) fell while
free solo climbing Angel’s Arete (5.10)
in the Bridge Buttress area. National
Park Service rangers were on the
scene within minutes and stabilized
0 2066
Fredricks using a backboard and
Loose Block Pulled Off — Fall on Rock,2012
Wyoming, GrandBLOCK
LOOSE Teton National
PULLED Park,
OFFMiddle
– Teton
FALL ON ROCK
Wyoming, Grand Teton National
Park, Middle Teton
On August 9, a party of three was
intending to climb the Buckingham
Ridge on the Middle Teton. They were
ascending the fourth-class approach
0 2067
slabs, unroped, when Steven Zalesky
 pickup, an ambulance ride from the
steel bridge to the field across from
the Deli, a helicopter to
Poughkeepsie, where I was scanned
and x-rayed, and then another
Loss of Control on Glissade — Fall into2012 helicopter
Crevasse/Moat,
Washington, to Westchester,
Inexperience, Washington,
North Cascades, where I Cascades, Aasg
North
landed
Aasgard Passamongst world-class
orthopedic
On July 3 about trauma 0:30 surgeons.
a.m., Julia
The
Rutherford (21 <sic>)calcaneus
damage: my left was glissading was
broken
down the Colchuck Lake side of me
in several places, earning
seven
Aasgard screws
Pass and withathreeplate.other My L1 people:
vertebra
her boyfriend burst,Peter
and now I have ahis
Borschowa,
titanium
father, and cage in its center,
a friend. She felland intoit’s
a
0 2068 fused
moat, to the avertebrae
down high-volume above and
sub-snow-
Loss of Control on Glissade — Fall into2012
Crevasse/Moat,
Washington,
below (T12 Poor Visibility,
andMount Misperception,
L2).Baker
Very fortunately, No Hard Hat, Wa
On July 2, my girlfriend
I have no neurological deficit. The Sheryl
Costello
spine (34) and
surgeon kept I (45)
saying,climbed “Youthe were
Coleman
very, veryHeadwall
lucky,” because route onthe Mount
burst
Baker in excellent
vertebra came so close conditions.
to pinching That
afternoon
my we descended
spinal cord. I had a pleural the normal
route to aoncamp
effusion the lefton side
an outcrop
and was near
on a
the bottomfor
respirator of atheday glacier.
after the fusion
0 2069
Conditions deteriorated that evening,
surgery.
Off Route, Fall on Snow/Ice — Unable 2012
to Self-Arrest
with Faulty
Wyoming, Use
Grand
high winds, ofsleet,
Crampons,
Tetonand NationalNo Hard
moderate Hat, Inexperience
Park,
Analysis
Middle
intermittentTeton rain showers. The there’s
winds
For many climbing accidents,
About
decreased 1000by onmorning
July 29,but Ryan the rain
usually a bunch of post-hoc Analyses:
Haymaker (21) and Andy Friedlund
What went wrong, and how can we
were attempting to climb the Middle
avoid it? Especially for rappelling and
Teton, but they mistakenly ascended
lowering-off-the-end accidents, the
the Ellingwood Couloir instead of the
idea that ‘I just don’t see how this
traditional Southwest Couloir farther
0 2070 happens’ is pervasive.
to the west. Near the top of the
Protection Bolt Pulled Out, West Virginia,
2012MeadowAs
West a neuroscientist,
River Virginia, Meadow I feelRiver particularly
qualified
Late in the day on June 23, adon’t
to respond to ‘I just bolt see
how
pulled out while a climber was is very
this happens’. The answer
simple,
loweringthough it is also
off a sport route. hard Thetoclimber
confront and accept:
struck the ground and broke his Humans areleg.
fallible and our attention
The accident took place at a crag is imperfect.
Human
along the fallibility
Meadow is why
Riverwe tie knots
located in
in the
the
Newends RiverofGorge
ropes,area. though This that isn’t
location
0 2071 always
is not inthe answer. It’sbut
a guidebook, why is auto-
used by
Pulled Off a Loose Block — Fall on Rock,
2012Washington,
lockingMount
Washington, devices Stuart
Mount
exist,Stuart
though those
Isometimes
was climbing the
cause new Westproblems.
Ridge of
Mount Stuart on September
There are thousands of experiments 7 when I
pulled off a loose block
and papers and such, accidents on and took a 60-
all
foot fall.
kinds We were
of scales thatroped up,belaying
demonstrate the
the pitch. Weofhad
imperfection human decent protection
attention. No
in, but
one it was a as
is exempt lowappealing
5th-classas pitch
it isand
to
the gear
think thatspacing
experts reflected
or experienced that.
0 2072
I’m still might
people recoveringor shouldfrom be. my As injuries
‘R.G.’
Rappel Error — Uneven Ropes, Fall on2012
Rock, Experienced,
(concussion, Newfour York, Shawangunks
fractured ribs,
said, “Like many things in climbing,
collapsed
you can dolung, scapula,
it right thousands laceration on
of times,
lower leg requiring surgery,
screw it up once, and you’re hosed.” etc.) but
As for me, I get to live, walk, and
climb again - and try harder to pay
better attention. (Source: Edited from
a report sent in by Julie Haas - 40)
0 2073
 Snakebite Virginia, Great Falls Park, Bird's
2012Nest JB (44) was bitten by a Copperhead
snake on May 27 at the Bird’s Nest
area of Great Falls Park. I (Luciano
Lima) was climbing at Bird’s Nest in a
group separate from the bitten
climber. I had just scrambled to the
top of the cliff to break down my
anchor when I heard a yell from
0 2074
below. The climber had placed his
Stranded, Nevada, Red Rock Canyon NCA, 2012BlackNevada,
Velvet Canyon
Red Rock— Dream
Canyon of Wild
NCA,Turkeys
Black Velvet Canyon - Dream of Wild
Turkeys
On November 26, two females
became stuck between second and
the top of the third pitch on Dream of
Wild Turkeys (5.10a). They were
stranded because their rope had
1 2075
lodged itself in a crack, making it
Stranded, Rappel Error — Rope Too Short,2012NorthNorth
Carolina, Hanging
Carolina, Rock State
Hanging RockPark, Moore's Wall
State
Park, Moore's Wall
On November 5, a male climber (28)
with limited experience and
unfamiliarity with the Sentinel Buttress
area of Moore’s Wall rappelled to the
end of his rope after missing the
second rappel station. He noticed that
0 2076
he was short on rope approximately
Avalanche — Failure to Analyze Snowpack,2012 PoorWyoming,
Position, Wyoming, Snowy Range
Snowy Range
On November 6th, Brice Portwood
(27) and I (Ed Warren – 25) were
trying to climb a mixed route (a
summer rock route, but never climbed
as a mixed/ice climb as far as we
know) in the Snowy Range.
Conditions were not ideal at 0800
0 2077
when we left the car, with winds
Atypical Hace Alaska, Denali National
2013Park, Mt. On
McKinley,
June 3,West Buttress guide (44)
an assistant
with American Alpine Institute radioed
to NPS rangers at the 14,200-foot
medical camp that he was descending
from the fixed lines because he was
not feeling well. He arrived at 5 p.m.
in the company of Alpine Ascents
International guides Don and Sarah
0 2078
Carpenter, who had agreed to bring
Avalance, Poor Position, Weather New
2013Hampshire,OnMt. Washington,
January Huntington
5 a party Ravine
of two was
climbing Central Gully when the
leader was hit with a naturally
triggered sluff avalanche. During the
resulting fall, one of the climbers
fractured his ankle. Much of the
information below was gathered from
a narrative provided by a guide who
0 2079
was in the area, as well as from
 Avalanche, Weather, Poor Position2013
Alaska, DenaliOnNational Park,
June 12, Mt. McKinley,
a four-person West
rope Buttress
team
triggered an avalanche and was
swept a short distance while traveling
just below the fixed-lines area on
Denali’s West Buttress, at the 15,400-
foot level. Three of the victims (ages
23, 30, and 32) were members of a
University of Alaska Anchorage
0 2080
(UAA)–sponsored medical research
Cardiac Condition - Failure to Inform
2013
Guide Service
On Alaska,
May 27,Denali
AlpineNational
Ascents Park, Mt. McKinley, West B
International (ALP) lead guide Sarah
Carpenter of expedition Alp-3-
Carpenter arranged to have a 68-
year-old client looked after at the
14,200-foot camp by Alaska
Mountaineering School lead guide
Dan Corn, while the ALP team made
0 2081
a carry to the top of the fixed lines. (It
Communication Device Problem California,
2013 Mt. Shasta,
On AugustHotlum-Wintun Ridge
29 I received a call from
Siskiyou County SAR, Celeste Fowler,
stating that a SPOT device had been
set off on the northeast side of the
mountain, near the 10,000-foot level
on the Hotlum-Wintun route. The
signal came from a commercially
guided trip with two guides from
0 2082
Alpine Skills International (ASI).
Fall on Ice, Followed by Cardiac Arrest
2013 Colorado,Midday
Telluride,
on Bridal
JanuaryVeil15,
Falls
Jack Roberts
(58), a renowned ice climber and
alpinist, died on the 400-foot Bridal
Veil Falls (WI5). Jack was leading the
second pitch, a long, steep pillar on
the right side of the falls, when he fell
60 feet, breaking his hip. His belayer
was able to signal hikers below, who
0 2084
summoned the San Miguel County
Fall on Rock Colorado, Boulder, First
2013
Flatiron On July 10 an inexperienced climber
seconding the First Flatiron injured his
ankle while being belayed and could
not move. The leader did not have
sufficient equipment to effect self-
rescue. Rescuers climbed to both the
injured climber and belayer and
rappelled to the ground. (Source:
0 2085
Daniel Lack, RMRG.)
Fall on Rock - Fall from Cliff Top,2013
Poor Position On
Colorado,
July 11Boulder Canyon
a climber had just untied
from the rope after completing a
climb. The climber stepped backward
at the belay area and fell over a small
cliff. (Source: Daniel Lack, RMRG.)
Analysis
Over the years, we have seen a
number of these incidents. Letting
0 2086
down one’s guard after the climb and
not being anchored, especially when
 Fall on Rock - Inadequate Belay, Lowering
2013 Error On
California,
July 18Yosemite Valley,(20)
a male leader Churchbowl
had
climbed Uncle Fanny (one pitch, 5.7)
on a 60-meter rope and was being
lowered by his partner on the ground,
so the rest of the group could top-rope
the pitch. The belayer (male, 22) was
looking up, helping the descending
climber negotiate a ledge. A third
0 2087
member of the group, new to
Fall on Rock - Rappel Error California,
2013Yosemite OnValley,
JuneEl17,
Capitan, East Ledges
a 51-year-old maleDescent
French climber was rappelling one of
the descent lines on the East Ledges
of El Capitan. On the final rappel he
fell 30 feet to the ground, injuring his
ankle. Details are not clear because
of the language barrier, but here is
our best guess at what happened,
0 2088
based on a translation of a brief
Fall on Rock - Rappel Error California,
2013Yosemite OnValley,
MayRoyal
23 anArches
experienced climber
(male, 23) fell while rappelling. He
self- rescued and reported the
accident when he came to the
medical clinic. This is what he wrote
on our form: “Rapped off ends of rope
on RA descent attempting to clip last
bolt station above fourth-class terrain
0 2089
that goes to final rap. Fell 35 feet
Fall on Rock - Rigging Error California,
2013 YosemiteOn Valley, El Capitan,
July 28, Salathe
Ginnie (32) andWall
Carl (23)
were practicing aid climbing on the
165- foot first pitch of the Salathé
Wall. They had recently climbed some
of the Valley’s long 5.11 classics,
including Free Blast, the Rostrum, the
Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome
(in a day), and Astroman, and had
0 2090
decided to spend a few days learning
Fall on Rock – Rappel Anchor Failure
2013Alaska, Denali National
On April 20 aPark,
partyMooses Tooth
of three Japanese
climbers set up a rappel on the route
Shaken Not Stirred on the Mooses
Tooth. The rappel anchor was a sling
around a horn of rock. This anchor
failed, resulting in one member of the
team, Yudai Sato (24), taking a long
fall “head over heels” to the base of
0 2091
the route. His left shoulder was
Fall on Rock, Belay Device Compromised
2013 Colorado,On Eldorado
March 31Canyon
a maleState Park,had
climber Redgarden
led Wall
the fourth pitch of Rewritten (5.7) and
was belaying his male partner up the
pitch. The second was only about 10
feet from the top of the pitch when he
slipped and fell. The lead climber lost
control of his belay device (Trango
Cinch), and his partner fell as far as
0 2092
90 feet before the lead climber was
 Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Rock
2013 Breaks Colorado,
On MayClear Creek
25, T.J. Canyon,(25)
Brumme Cat was
Slab
photographing friends climbing in the
Cat Slab area of Clear Creek Canyon.
He soloed up the far right section of
Cat Slab and clipped into the second
bolt on a route to take photos. Once
finished, he unclipped and then
started to downclimb the route.
0 2093
According to friends, the rock he was
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay California,
2013 SquawOn Valley,
JuneBig ChiefJohnson
9, Eric Access Road
(23) of Reno
fell approximately 40 feet off one of
the area’s popular climbing routes,
breaking both heels and a vertebra.
He fell after his climbing partner failed
to secure an adequate belay. (Source:
Sierra Sun, June 12, 2012.)
(Editor’s note: We include this brief
0 2094
report because it highlights the theme
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay - Rope
2013Ran Through Belay
During
of our theDevice,
“Knowearly No Knot section.)
theafternoon
Ropes” inon
Rope-End,
March Inexperience C
24, Ira Lewis (33) climbed Malign
(5.7), a one-pitch trad route on the
Happy Hour Crag. After Lewis
completed the climb, his partner on
the ground began to lower him on
their 60-meter rope. The belayer was
not tied into the rope, and the end of
0 2095
the rope did not have a stopper knot
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Inadequate
2013 Protection Montana, Gallatin
On September Canyon,
18, Jacob Gallatin Tower
van Almelo
(25) was climbing the route Tigger
(5.10a/b)
when he fell at the crux move. His 30-
foot fall resulted in several injuries.
His
belayer did not catch the fall, but
protection pulling out may also have
0 2096
had
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection2013
Nevada, Calico
"OnBasin,
AprilBig Bad Wolf
7 around 3 p.m., my partner
and I had just finished Physical Graffiti
and were at the base of the route and
packing up to leave. I was watching
two
guys struggle on Big Bad Wolf (5.9).
The climber was just about to clip
what I
0 2097
believe was the fourth bolt and didn’t
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection2013
Utah, Fisher Towers,
On
make it.Ancient
April He Art Tower
25 aswung
woman (25)and
down fell hit
20 the
feet,
landing
wall on a ledge about 200 feet up
from the base of the tower. She
suffered rib, spine, and head injuries,
and was flown by Life Flight
Helicopter to Intermountain
Healthcare in Murray, Utah. According
to the Grand County Sheriff’s Office,
0 2098
the woman slipped and fell while
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection2013
– Boulder Dislodged Tennessee,
On February 10, aPrentice Cooper State Forest, Tennes
pair of experienced
climbers were climbing Prerequisite
for Excellence (5.8). The leader took a
fall on a cam that was placed behind
a block, dislodging the block
(estimated to weigh approximately
200 pounds), which fell and hit his
belayer, crushing his torso. According
0 2099
to a witness involved in the rescue,
Fall on Rock, Inexperience, Weather2013
Nevada, RedOn Rock,
AprilPine
5, aCreek
youngCanyon,
woman Cat(early
in the Hat
20s, I think) fell about 20 feet (though
no
one knows for sure because there
were no witnesses) while being
lowered by her
husband off the first pitch of Cat in the
Hat (6 pitches, 5.6). She sustained a
0 2100
head
Fall on Rock, Loose Rock - Rockfall,
2013
Failure to Test
On Hold
JuneCalifornia, Yosemite Valley,
20 two experienced male Sentinel Rock
climbers (32 and 39) from Japan were
scrambling down the gully behind
Sentinel Rock (the standard descent),
after climbing the Steck-Salathé route
(16 pitches, 5.10b). One warned the
other of a possible loose slab. The
other used it for balance, but it slid on
0 2101
sand, hit him, and sent him on a
Fall on Rock, Not Secured to Cliff 2013
Top Colorado,On Boulder Canyon,2,Boulderado
September Treff Owen
Carpenter (28) fell 70 feet to his death
while setting up a top-rope climb on
the Boulderado crag, located in
Boulder Canyon. He was a member of
a climbing group of eight, and the
most experienced climber in the
group. He volunteered to hike to the
0 2102
top of the route to set up an anchor to
Fall on Rock, Off Route California,2013
Yosemite Valley, El Capitan,
On June 6, RickWest Face
Barus (26) was
leading pitch 16 of the West Face, just
above Thanksgiving Ledge, when he
took the left of two possible cracks. It
turned out to be the wrong crack and
it petered out. His partner was out of
sight below, and they could not
communicate against the wind, so
0 2103
instead of lowering he set good
Fall on Rock, Off Route, Placed No2013
or InadequateOn Protection
May 24,Colorado, Eldorado (32)
Adam Kimmerly Canyon
andState Park, Redg
William Olszewski (51) set out to
climb the Grand Giraffe (six pitches,
5.9+) on Redgarden Wall. William
explains: We climbed the west face of
Lower Ramp (5.2) to access Grand
Giraffe Ledge and the start of our
route. Adam led the first two pitches
0 2104
of Grand Giraffe, with me following. I
 Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out2013
- Inadequate Protection
On May 30, California,
Mike DrakeYosemite Valley, El Capitan, Nose
(22) was
leading when his top aid piece failed
on the upper half of the “Pancake
Flake” (pitch 23, 5.10a C1), above the
Great Roof. He fell about 25 feet,
striking a couple of ledges; he
attributes the long fall to having back-
cleaned a good piece, thinking he’d
0 2105
need it later. His partner lowered him
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error - Failed2013
to Clip to Anchor California,
On March 24 aYosemite
man (27)Valley,
and aSuper Slide
woman (26) were rappelling to the
base of Super Slide (5.9) at the Royal
Arches area. Apparently they wound
up between two of the regular rappel
anchors. The man built a temporary
anchor for the woman to clip into
while he ascended to reach the
0 2106
correct anchor. During his absence
Fall on Rock, Untied from Rope, Lack
2013of Communication Colorado,
Late in the day onBoulder,
JanuarySecond Flatiron
15, a male
lead climber was attempting to climb
the Second Flatiron, a low 5th-class
climb with many possible variations.
The leader climbed a full rope length
and could not find an adequate
anchor. He untied from the rope to try
to climb further to find viable anchors.
0 2107
The second started climbing,
Fall on Rock--Rappel Error Utah, Big
2013 CottonwoodOnCanyon, Challenge
September Buttress to
20, according
Unified Police Capt. Kris Ownby, two
men (23 and 31) were rappelling
down the Challenge Buttress, just
across from Storm Mountain, about 8
p.m. One of them fell off the end of
the rope, and both fell as a result
because they were simul-rappelling.
0 2108
One fell 10 feet, and the other fell 40
Fall on Snow - Ice Axe and Helmet2013
in Pack Oregon,
ThisMt. Hood,
fatal South Side
accident Ride
on February 6 was
not witnessed, so many details remain
unknown. Jared Townsley (31) was
reported overdue from a solo climb on
the South Side Route. He was last
seen by other climbers descending
near Crater Rock. A search team from
Portland Mountain Rescue located his
0 2109
body on the upper White River Glacier
Fall on Snow - Ski Mountaineering2013
Decent, Exceeding
Ilkka Abilities
Uusitalo Alaska,
(36) andDenali National
the three Park, Mt. McKin
other
members of expedition “L10 at Denali
2012” left the 14,200-foot camp on the
West Buttress route to ascend and
then ski down the Orient Express
Couloir on May 22. Due to
deteriorating weather, the group made
an unplanned bivouac on the route
0 2110
and then continued their ascent on
 Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped Alaska,
2013 Denali National Park, Mt. Mckinley,
Steffen Machulka (49) was West Buttress
a member
of the three-person German climbing
team “Die Bahner.” On May 18 the
team was on the eighth day of the
expedition and was moving from the
14,200-foot camp to the 17,200-foot
camp on the West Buttress. The team
climbed unroped up the fixed lines
0 2111
with Machulka in the lead position.
Fall on Snow, Failure to Self-Arrest,
2013
Inadequate Equipment
On April 21 - No Crampons
a man California, to
(22) attempted Mt. Shasta Wildern
glissade down Avalanche Gulch
below Redbanks. As the snow was
too firm, he lost control and slid for
1,500 feet. He suffered abrasions and
cuts.
Rangers spoke to the man over the
phone and met with him one hour
0 2112
after initial phone contact at a lower
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Equipment,2013Exceeding Abilities
On JuneOregon,
elevation. 12,
HeMark Mt.Cartier
Hood,to(56),
consented South
minoraSide Route
first-
highly experienced climber,
succumbed after falling approximately
1,000 feet while soloing a South Side
route variation. Climbing conditions
were considered excellent.
Cartier suffered massive head trauma
and was determined deceased on
0 2113
scene. His fall was not witnessed, so
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Equipment,2013Exceeding Abilities
Gary Oregon,
Morgan
it is not known if Mt.
(52) Hood,
had
icefall West
flown
may Crater Rim
in from
have
Michigan and was attempting a
summit climb on June 21 by a South
Side variation, the West Crater Rim.
After losing his footing, he was unable
to self-arrest with his hiking stick. The
300-foot slide resulted in a concussion
and hip/leg injuries. Nearby climbers
0 2114
(including Portland Mountain Rescue
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest,
2013
Faulty Use of
On Crampons--Failed
February 4, while to Put Them Onthe
ascending Oregon, Mt. Hood,
South Side Route, Andy Kim (age
unknown) stopped at the 9,500-foot
elevation to put on his crampons. As
he was leveling a platform for the
transition, he slipped and slid about
500 feet. He lost his ice axe while
attempting self-arrest. Joe Owens, a
0 2115
guide and mountain rescue leader,
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest,
2013
Party Separated Oregon, Mt.
On February 5, Hood,
while South Side Route
ascending the
South Side Route, Meg Coker (35)
lost her footing at about 10,500-foot
elevation. She was unable to self-
arrest and slid about 200 feet. She
suffered multiple rib fractures and a
collapsed lung. Nearby teams (not her
teammates) witnessed the fall and
0 2116
provided first aid until professional ski
 rock hazard and avoided it. This
accident occurred in a relatively low
climbing-use area. In more popular
areas, other climbers are likely to
have already released loose rock.
Falling Rock - Pulled Rock Off, Failed
2013to Inspect Top of Boulder Problem Colorado, Boulder, Flagstaff M
Climbers are well advised to be
particularly alert to potential rockfall
hazards from February through June.
Added caution is appropriate on less-
traveled rock formations or routes.
(Sources: Rockymountainrescue.org
and Dailycamara.org.)
0 2117
Rappel Error - Fall on Ice Colorado,2013
Estes Park, Big
OnThompson
February Canyon
18 a female ice climber
(49) fell while rappelling during a
guided ice climb with her husband and
daughter. She was approximately 20
to 30 feet above the ground when she
slipped and swung sideways into a
protruding ice formation. She was
taken to McKee Medical Center and
0 2120
treated for blunt-force trauma to her
Rappel Error, Stranded - Off Route,2013
Unable to Reascend
On AugustRappel
4, Rope,
RichardInexperience California, Yosemite
(18) and Chris
(19) attempted to rappel the
established Nose rappel route (20+
rappels) from the summit of El
Capitan. They felt they weren’t ready
to climb El Cap, but after seeking
advice on Supertopo.com they had
decided the rappel was within their
0 2121
capabilities. They got a rope stuck
Slip on Ice, No Crampons, Probably 2013
Fatigue NewOn Hampshire,
JanuaryMt. 10,Adams
Gregory Frux (53)
and Matt Burd (52), who had climbed
Mt. Tripyramid North Peak the
previous day, were joined by Nick
Jaques (52) for a mountaineering
adventure. They ascended the Lowes
Path for 3,000 vertical feet to the Grey
Knob RMC Hut, encountering icy trails
0 2122
and using crampons the entire way.
Stranded - Inattention California, Yosemite
2013 Valley,
OnCookie Cliff 20, I (Zach, 28) spent
December
the day rope-soloing at Cookie Cliff.
As the sun was getting low, I decided
to use the rope on Outer Limits to solo
Crack- A-Go-Go, a 5.11c crack to the
left. I got up the route and clipped my
daisies to the anchor bolts. From
there the rope angled sharply up and
0 2123
right to the Outer Limits anchor.
Stranded, Off-Route, Darkness, Inexperience
2013 Nevada,
"On Red
July Rock, Black
3 around 8 Velvet Canyon
a.m., two
climbers visiting from Ohio made the
approach to
the base of Epinephrine, a 5.9, 15-
pitch route located in Black Velvet
Canyon.
In addition to their climbing
equipment, they had five liters of
1 2124
water. As the day
 Weather - Thunderstorm Causing Falling
2013 Rocks, Inadequate
On June 4,Clothing and Equipment
Joe Ripperger (50) and- Left at Base of Clim
Claire Epperson (25) climbed the East
Buttress (11 pitches, 5.10c). The
forecast for the day called for
temperatures in the low 80s with a 15
to 30 percent chance of rain, so they
started climbing at 6 a.m. They left
their warm clothes (fleece) at the base
0 2125
and climbed in T-shirts—because of
Avalanche - Fall into Crevasse, Poor
2013
Position, Weather
On JuneAlaska,
13, aDenali National Japanese
five-member Park, Mt. McKinley, Wes
expedition, “Miyagi Workers Alpine
Federation–MWAF-2012 Denali,” was
involved in an avalanche while
descending the West Buttress of
Denali. At an unknown time during the
early morning, the expedition
triggered an avalanche on a feature
0 2127
immediately above the 11,200-foot
Fall on Ice, Climbing Unroped, Inexperience
2013 NewOnYork, Adirondacks
December Mountains,
15 the weather Nippletop
in the
northern Adirondack Mountains was
bluebird clear but cold. I had spent the
day with a fellow New York State
Department of Environmental
Conservation (DEC) forest ranger
patrolling on foot to the 2,000-foot
summit of Hamlin Mountain in Essex
0 2128
County. At 10 a.m. the same day, four
Fall on Rock Virginia, Shenandoah2013
National Park,On
OldMarch
Rag Mountain
31, Art Webb (51) was
climbing the Piton Crack (5.7) on
Skyline Wall when he took a short
pendulum fall (under 10 feet) on a
traversing tight hand and finger crack.
The fall caused him to strike a chunk
of rock on a small, jutting arête,
breaking his leg just above the ankle.
0 2129
Due to the late hour, and after
Fall on Rock - Cam Pulled Out Alberta,
2013 Banff National Park, Mt.July
On Saturday, Cory21, two climbers
set off to climb a route on Bumpers
Buttress west of Banff. They selected
the route Short Jerky Movements,
which was located above the Spasm
Chasm (local name). The two
climbers were quite experienced.
While climbing the third pitch, the
0 2130
leader placed a small camming unit
Fall on Rock - Lost Balance, Protection
2013 Pulled Out Crowders
I was Mountain
guiding a groupState Park, Two-Pitch
at Gumbies on Wall
April 14 when a woman came up from
the gully that leads down to Two Pitch
Wall to tell me that Chris Bernick (37)
had taken a long fall on Secret
Service (5.10+)/Double Naught Spy
(5.9 R), rendering him unconscious.
From the top of the gully we could see
0 2131
him unconscious on a ledge,
 Late in the afternoon on June 19, a
Fall on Rock - Rock came Loose California,
2013 Pinnacles
On April
man National
(44)23, was Monument,
Al Shaver is
climbing aDiscovery
leading
sport Wall
and
route I
(Steve Nechodom)
named Earth Surferam following
(5.11d) in Muir on
Lost Horizons
Valley. While on (5.8).
leadBoth about of 50us feetare in up
our 50s,
and beingwith half a by
belayed lifehis of 15-year-old
climbing
experience
son, he groaned apiece. and We went have limp been as
trad partners for six
though he had passed out. He then years. About 3
On
p.m.,
took June I
whatam 16 a
going
would man to (48)
the
be considered started
right across to
a long,
During
climb a the
sport earlyrouteevening
called on
I 80 March
Banged 19,
the
but 30-foot
moderate, traverse
fall of about
about 25 feet
feet. up.
He
0 2132 a
my woman
***** (22)
Knee. was
When leading
hepieces
got the sport
Istopped
have
route
justin
Tanduay
cleaned
air about
Time
two
level
(5.10d) withabout in the
the
Fall on Rock - Tripped over Fixed Line
2013 California,OnSan
eightJuly Jacinto
feet 24, off Wilderness,
Karen
the Gose
ground (27)at
Idyllwild,
and died
was theSuicide
of Rock
second
Boneyard bolt,Walltheand fall fell
being while skillfully
trying to
injuries
attempting sustained while demonstrating
arrested
clip the byto
anchors.hisclip
son. theThe
She
firstvictim
bolt, he
felltechniques didfell
not
climbing
and impacted and rappelling
the ground. His on
impact
approximately the rock face
20 feet, on the
hitting way thea Muir
the face ofhis
fractured Suicide
right Rock.
tibia and Gose,
fibula.
down,
prominent nor didledge he about
impacthalfway the ground. down.
counselor
Valley Rescue with a Girlcalled
was Scoutfrom troop, a fell
After
She falling,
impacted theon victim
her was
lower hanging
back
30 feet emergency-station
nearby onto a rock ledge during radio. aand
limp
was in his harness
lowered to the and ground wasby not her
rappelling
Volunteers, demonstration.
including threeCAL
moving.
belayer. His
She son immediately
complained of lowered
significant
FIRE/Riverside
paramedics, County Fire
responded inother
about three
0 2133 him
back topain.
the ground,
One of herwhere party called
Department
minutes. The responded
patient was and lowered a
treated,
Fall on Rock, Attempt to Clip Bolt 2013 climbers
- Inadequate Protection,
Muir Valley in the
Exceeding
RescueareaAbilities
tried
on a nearbyKentucky, Red River Gorg
packaged, and to
unsuccessfully transported
locate to anor
aRescuers
pulse
emergency-station
ambulance that was radio.
waiting on the
detect
arrived breathing.
about fourRoad. Two
minutes young latermen and
Muir
started Emergency
CPR while another ran to afor
treated
Analysis and packaged the patient
Muir
litter Emergency
transport Station
to the Muirand radioed
Emergency
The
for climber
help. Rick was inexperienced
Weber, lead WFR, and
was
Road,
could where
have an ambulance
avoided the accident awaited. by
nearby
Analysis and arrived at the scene about
stick
10 clippingafter
minutes the the
firstvictim
bolt. (Source:
0 2134 The
Rick general
Weber.) consensus wasfell. that Hethere
radioed the county
was too much slack in the rope dispatcher and
Fall on Rock, Attempt to Clip Bolt 2013
- Too Much Slack in RopeaKentucky,
requested helicopter. Red River thenGorge, Muir Valley
between the belayer andHe climber. took
In a
over administering
re-enactment the next day, a “normal”CPR. Other Muir
Valley
lead fallRescue from this volunteers
point on arrived the walland
assisted
resulted in a modest fall that an hour.
with CPR for about
After
terminateddeterminingseveralthat feetthere above were theno
signs of life, efforts
point where the victim impacted the at resuscitation
were
ledge.terminated.
(Source: Rick TheWeber, medicalMuir
0 2135 examiner
Valley.) determined that the victim
died of a massive coronary event and
Fall on Rock, Cardiac Arrest - Dehydration
2013 and Lack of Blood Pressure Medication Kentucky, Red River G
that death occurred immediately.
Analysis
The victim’s son, who was belaying
him, reported that his father had run
out of blood pressure medication. The
pair had been climbing all day in 90-
degree weather on strenuous routes.
0 2136 (Source: Rick Weber.)
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone California,
2013 MatterhornEarlyPeak, in the Sawtooth
morning Ridgeon Saturday,
June 30, Michael Ybarra (45) set out
by himself to traverse the Sawtooth
Ridge, according to his sister and Alex
Few, a friend. He was scheduled to
return from his climb by Sunday
evening at the latest. After he didn’t
contact Ms. Few as planned, nor
0 2137
respond to her efforts to call, email,
 with a left calcaneus fractured in three
places and a fractured right talus
bone. The orthopedist thought that in
four to five weeks my right foot should
heal enough to allow weight to be
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone North 2013
Carolina, Pilot
OnMountain
Julyon
placed 30,it,State
and Park
Lloyd Ramsey
that (70),
my left foota
local climber
would take aroundwell known
10 weeksto thetopark
bear
staff and climbing community, was
weight.
found dead at the base of the Foreign
Analysis
Trade Zone/Bat
I got lost on a route Outthat
of Hell area. He
I’d never
had
climbed, and that the guidebookatdidn’t
fallen a distance estimated 50
feet by authorities. He was
describe in detail. This is a risk I wearing
his harness
accepted thenwith a rope
and acceptattached.
now. No
0 2138
anchors
Getting off-route happens, andafalls
were rigged for either
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Route
2013
North Carolina, Rumbling Bald
happen. In this case, if I had gone left
from the last piece of gear, I would
have found easier climbing, likely
would’ve made it to the anchors just
fine, and would’ve climbed a few more
routes that day. Having the ability to
self-rescue was good. (Source: Mike
0 2139 Best.)
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay Idaho,
2013City of Rocks National
At 2:50 p.m.Reserve,
on July Breadloaves
7, climbing
ranger Brad Shilling was flagged
down by a park visitor who reported
there had been a climbing accident
and that the climber had a head
injury. The visitor pointed to the
descent route from the climb Intruding
Dike (5.7) on the Breadloaves, about
0 2140
30 meters from the road. Shilling
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay - Cam
2013Device Open,
On No Backup
April 14 I wasKnots Massachusetts,
climbing Hominey Hammond Pond, V
(5.8) on the Vittles Wall, a 25-foot
crag near Hammond Pond. I’ve been
climbing for five years, and although I
have easily completed routes rated
more difficult than this, I have
struggled and fallen repeatedly on the
crux bulge at the top of Hominey.
0 2141
Although I was without a partner, I
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection2013
California, Joshua Tree National
In October Park, Intersection
I was leading the Left SkiRock
Track (5.11a) on Intersection Rock
and suffered a ground fall from about
20 feet up. I landed in a patch of dirt
that is about two feet by three feet. All
around the spot where I landed are
sharp rocks that could have seriously
injured me.
0 2142
"I climbed up past the “fin” area of the
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection2013
North Carolina, Rumbling
During
climb, which Bald
the early afternoon
is about of off
18 feet January
the
2, Bill McAfee (40) fell off Good
ground, or so it appears. I placed a
Samaritans
No. 4 C4 cam (5.9+),
behind located on the
the flake/fin
Cereal Buttress. He had placed a
solid-looking No. 3 Camalot about 10
to 12 feet into the climb. He climbed
another 10 feet or so, and was
working on placing another piece of
0 2143
pro. McAfee and his partner had
 Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection2013
at Cliff Top Maine, Camden(28)
Maria Millard Hillswas
State Park, Mt.
climbing Megunticook, Maid
with
friends Sigrid Coffin and John Cronin.
Moments before she was going to
rappel from the top of a climb, her
partners recalled her saying, “I’m off
belay, I’m safe.” She then fell an
estimated 65 feet. Julie Libby of
Camden First Aid, which assisted at
0 2144
the scene, said she believes Millard
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection,
2013
Inadequate Knowledge
On November of Route Rating
7, Bob (62)California,
and I (67)Joshua Tree Natio
arrived in Joshua Tree in celebration
of Bob’s retirement. We spent the
morning top-roping Hands Off (5.8)
and practicing self-rescue techniques.
Bob said there was a 5.3 on Cyclops
Rock, a good first lead for the week. I
usually follow but have led for three
0 2145
years, while Bob had led for over 30
Fall on Rock, Loose Rock Colorado, 2013
Maroon Bells,
OnNorth Maroon
September
March Peak
19 a 17,
man Derek Kelley (34)
(27) was
fell more than 600 feet to
standing on a belay ledge at the his death
while climbing North Maroon
Sunnyside Wall when he stepped Peak
(14,014
back toofeet). According
far and fell off theto reports,
ledge. He
Kelley
impacted the ground aboutfrom
was about 300 feet the
15 feet
summit when he fell after
below and sustained a back injury.a boulder
came loose.Rescue
Muir Valley Rescueresponded
personnel and
believe he had
litter-carried thebeen
victimwearing
to an a
0 2146
helmet.
ambulance waiting on the Muir
Fall on Rock, Not Attached to Belay2013
Anchors Kentucky, Red River Gorge, Muir Valley
Emergency Road.
Analysis
The belayer should have tethered
himself to the belay anchors to
prevent a fall from the ledge. Belay
anchors are located at this and similar
locations in the valley. (Source: Rick
0 2147 Weber, Muir Valley.)
Fall on Rock, Off-Route, Unable to2013
Clip Protection
OnNewMayHampshire, Rumney,
18 a Dartmouth 5.8 Crag
Outing Club
excursion to Rumney included nine
climbers. When they arrived, they split
into teams and went to their selected
climbs, having agreed to meet back at
the van in early evening. Lynn (20s)
had been climbing with her partner at
5.8 Crag at the same time that Anna’s
0 2148
beginner trip (a separate group)
Fall on Rock, Placed No or Inadequate
2013ProtectionOnNorth
May Carolina,
26, myWhiteside
partner AmandaMountain(24)
and I (Ryan, 20) started the day with
the intent of climbing Catholic School
Girls Direct (5.11), but after
completing the first pitch we decided
to switch to the Original Route
(5.10d), which I’d done before. After I
led the first and second pitch, my
0 2149
partner started up the third. Around 11
 continue, and I’m glad to know that I
thought it through and decided to
finish the route. 4. Whatever you
decide to do, commit 100 percent to it.
Reaching the end of the pitch after
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled New2013
York, Mohonk Preserve, Birdland
that battle was one of the highlights of
my summer, and pulling the overhang
at the end of pitch two was worth all
the struggles on pitch one. It only
happened because, once I made up
my mind to continue, I was completely
focused on that task. (Source: Andy
0 2150 Weinmann, 34.)
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out2013
Utah, Zion National Park 26 Lyle Dale Hurd III
"On October,
(49) died after taking a fall while
climbing the Northeast Buttress, a
popular route on Angels Landing.
Hurd was in a party of four individuals,
traveling in pairs; Hurd and his partner
were following the other pair up the
route. Hurd was leading the fifth pitch
0 2151
when he fell over 40 feet onto a ledge,
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled, No2013
Helmet Virginia, Great Falls 9, Dennis (27) and TJ
On September
On
(25)October
were trad 26climbing
a man (45) with
Armbuster
significant
(5.9), located rockinclimbing
the Bird’s andNest area
paramedic
of Great Falls. rescue experience
Leading fell TJ
the route, from
a
fellheight
at theofcrux
about
a few30 feet, sustaining
feet above his
serious
top piece injuries. “I can’t This
of protection. tell you
tophowpiece,
embarrassing
a nut that had itheld is toprevious
have had such
leader
an
falls,accident,”
popped out,the man reported.nut
and another “The
and
0 2152 cause was nothing more than failure
a cam placed within one and a half
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error--Ropes2013
Uneven Utah, to
ItNo
was Man's
tie in. I Canyon
with special interest
remember thatfigure
tying the I
obtained
eight andthe 2012itedition
feeding through of my
Accidents
in North American
harness, and then Mountaineering,
I started talking to
because the
someone for “Know the Ropes”
a few minutes and never
section focuses
followed the knoton rappelling.
through. When MyI
brother,climbing,
started Louis Cicotello (70), did
it appeared as ifnot
I
survive a fall while on rappel
was tied in, but I was not. Thankfully, I at the
exit
didn’t ofget
thenearly
North as ForkfarofonNo Man’s
the route as
1 2153
Canyon, a slot
I thought I would.” canyon in
Fall on Rock, Unfinished Harness Knot,
2013 Distraction Kentucky, Red River Gorge, Muir Valley
Analysis
It was the last climb on the last day,
and our group just lost focus.
Climbing is a great sport that can be
enjoyed safely. Just make sure
everyone is watching out for everyone
out there. Check your knots! (Source:
0 2155 Chris Hannes.)
Fall on Rock, Weather, Poor Communication,
2013 Exhaustion
A groupKentucky,
of six spent Redthe River
dayGorge,
of March Playground
21 climbing at the Gallery before
heading over to the Playground. Once
at the Playground, the climbers set up
on two climbs, a 5.10b and a 5.10a.
The climber on Jungle Gym (5.10b)
was unable to move past the crux and
lowered, letting another climber try.
0 2156
The climber was able to make the
 Falling Rock Alberta, Banff National
2013
Park, Division
As Peak
a part of a climbing camp set up in
Icefall Brook, a party of six was
traversing Division Peak near the Lyell
Icefields on August 5. While
descending the final peak, a member
of the party was hit by rockfall on the
arm and sustained a compound
fracture. One member of the party
0 2157
continued back to camp to call for
Falling Rock - Failure to Follow Directions
2013 (Off Route), Failure occurred
This incident to Test Holds Alberta, Yamnuska, Directi
on September
18. While climbing the Directissima
Route on Yamnuska, the leader pulled
off a large block, hitting the belayer.
The
Therebelayer wasone
was only knocked
fatality, on April
unconscious
29, when the for 20 tosystem
anchor 25 seconds
at the top
before
of Easybecoming responsive.
Keyhole (5.2) failed asHe was
bleeding with
Stephanie a head
Prezant injury.
(22) was Rescue
about to
0 2158
personnel
be lowered.arrived
Whenfrom both
she weighted the
Fall on Rock , No HelmetNew York, 2013
Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks
system—six or so slings around a tree
—it came away. (No details as to why
or how.) She fell 20 feet and struck
her head. She was not wearing a
helmet. (Source: From reports
submitted by Mohonk Preserve and
Jeremiah Horrigan in a local
0 2159 newspaper.)
Injured Scrambler Alberta, Waterton2013
Lakes National Park,8:30
Around Mt. Crandell
a.m. on July 12, one
scrambler in a group of five dislocated
his shoulder while climbing on Tick
Ridge on Mt. Crandell. The climber
did not fall and was able to reverse
his moves onto lower-angle terrain,
but was in a great deal of pain. After
some discussion, a smart phone was
0 2160
used to find a number for the
Lead Fall on Roc - Failure to Follow
2013
Directions (Off
On Route),
July 2, Poor Position
a party of twoAlberta,
was offYamnuska,
route Bottleneck
near the fifth pitch of Bottleneck on
Yamnuska. A foot slipped and the
leader fell 15 to 20 meters. All of the
lead gear held and stopped the fall.
However, one of the party’s double
ropes sustained damage. The leader
was secured, and the belayer
0 2161
rappelled to the fallen climber to give
Lead Fall on Rock Alberta, Banff National
2013 Park, Mt.On Temple,
August 11Easttwo
Ridge
climbers were
making an attempt on the East Ridge
of Mt. Temple. As the lead climber
was nearing the top of the Big Step,
he fell approximately three to five
meters and broke his right ankle. His
partner took over the lead, and the
two climbers made it to a relatively flat
0 2162
area on top of the Big Step and called
 Lead Fall on Rock - Protection Pulled
2013
Out Alberta,
OnHaJuly
Ling8 Peak (Chinaman's
a party of two wasPeak), Northeast Ridge
ascending the Northeast Ridge (5.6)
of Ha Ling Peak. The leader climbed
off route and subsequently fell 10
meters, pulling a cam in the process.
Kananaskis Public Safety rescuers
slung the climbers from the face and
transferred care to EMS. The injured
0 2163
leader sustained abrasions,
Rappel Error - Rope Improperly Threaded
2013 throughOn Rappel Device,
July 8, No Knot(19),
Eric Metcalf on End
Ianof Rope North Carolin
Rogers (19), Addison Guranious (25),
and Mitchell Martishius (23) began
bouldering around 11 a.m. They
planned to finish the day by rappelling
Sentinel Buttress, a prominent 200-
foot feature near the central part of
the cliff. Starting at the base, the four
0 2164
scrambled to the top of the cliff and
Rappel Error/Failure, Climbing Alone,
2013ExceedingAAbilities,
climber Failure to Follow
left Calgary Directions
on the morning(Off Route), Inad
of August 4, telling his wife that he
was going to Castle Mountain. He did
not return home that evening. Banff
Dispatch was contacted the following
morning by a friend of the missing
climber. The friend reported that the
subject was likely going to climb
0 2166
Eisenhower Tower on Castle
Skiing - Exceeding Abilities, Poor Snow
2013 Conditions
OnAlberta,
February Banff National
7, at Park,Banff
1:50 p.m., Mt. Temple, Aemmer C
Dispatch received a call from an
injured skier who had just tumbled
down the Aemmer Couloir on Mt.
Temple. The subject stated that he
had “tomahawked” down the 600-
meter couloir, after falling on his
second turn. Amazingly, he was still
0 2167
coherent and walking slowly, but had
Slip on Rock, Protection Pulled Out2013
Colorado, Front Range, Mt.
Alexander Lee,Bancroft
left Boulder around 6
a.m., planning to climb the mostly
fourth class Direct East Ridge (II 5.4)
of Mt. Bancroft (13,250 feet) in the
James Peak Wilderness Area.
According to Hermans, “The day was
overcast and we had a few big gusts
and short bursts of hail, but nothing
0 2168
too rough. The [technical portion of
Slip on Snow - Climbing Unroped,2013
Inadequate or The
No Protection, Failure to on
accident occurred TestAugust
Holds,2No Helmet, Poor P
during a descent from the shoulder of
Rambler Peak, heading toward El
Piveto Mountain. This was day two of
a planned six- day mountaineering
traverse of the Wolf-Cervus Divide,
and all members had full packs. DC
and CE had just completed an ascent
0 2169
of Rambler Peak via the Spiral
 related accidents. Using common
sense and critical thinking, climbers
need to make their own decision
whether to respond to climbing
accidents in their immediate vicinity.
Slip on Snow or Ice - Climbing Unroped,
2013 Poor Conditions
On be
To July Alberta,
27
clear, Banff
aingroup
the of National
case three Park,
climbers
of this Mt. Lefroy
rescue,
wasactions
the descending
takenthe by normal route at
the climbers on
Mt. hut
the Lefroy
wereafter making aand
reasonable successful
safe,
summit.
and likelyOne member to
contributed of athe party was
better
making
outcomea for short
thetraverse
climber whoover had
some icy
rocks and slipped.
fallen. Good job! He was not
wearing
(Editor’s crampons.
note: Recent Hearticles,
proceeded to
online
tumble for approximately 100
discussions, rescue data, and current meters
0 2170
before miraculously
trends indicate therestopping
is a needinforsoft
Slip on Snow or Ice - Faulty use of2013
Crampons (Came Off) Alberta, Banff National Park, Mt. Lefroy
climbers to be self-reliant and well
versed in improvised partner and self-
rescue. Barring injuries and
overwhelming circumstances, a
number of problematic situations can
be handled independently by
experienced and practiced climbing
0 2171 teams.)
Slip on Snow or Ice, Stranded - Exceeding
2013 AbilitiesOnAlberta,
SeptemberBanff9National Park, Mt. Victoria, East Face
two experienced
climbers decided to turn around
before making the summit of Mt.
Victoria. On their descent, the female
member of the climbing team fell and
slid down the northeast face for
approximately 45 meters. She
miraculously managed to self-arrest.
1 2172
Her climbing partner was unable to
Stranded - Climbing Alone, Failure2013
to Follow Directions
On the (Off Route),
morning Exceeding
of July 20, a Abilities
strandedAlberta, Banff N
climber called Banff Dispatch for a
rescue. The climber had spent the
night on a small ledge immediately
below the summit of Mt. Whyte. After
numerous attempts to downclimb to
the Whyte-Niblock Col, the climber
abandoned his descent, feeling too
1 2173
dehydrated and exhausted to
Stranded - Exceeding Abilities Alberta,
2013 Banff National
On July Park,
10,Mt. Bellclimbing the
while
Northeast Ridge of Mt. Bell near the
Lake Louise area, a party of two
contacted Parks Canada and
requested a rescue. Although
they’d started early in the morning,
they were only halfway up the route
by 5 p.m. They stated that their slow
0 2174
progress was the result of one team
Stranded - Exceeding Abilities, Failure
2013to Follow On
Directions
August(Off2 twoRoute), Darkness,
climbers Inadequate Equipmen
who were
relatively inexperienced started late in
the day on a route that they thought
was Ballista. Ballista is a bolted sport
climb on the southeast face of Tunnel
Mountain. They were climbing very
slowly, and at one point one of the
climbers took a 10-meter lead fall but
1 2175
sustained no injuries. They continued
 Fall on Rock West Virginia, New River
2013 Gorge National River, Endless
On September 14 a Wall
female climber
(30) made her first trip to New River
Gorge. She fell while leading Totally-
Clipse (5.8) on Endless Wall. After
placing protection she attempted a
move, lost her hold, and fell. During
the fall she remembered catching her
right foot, injuring her ankle. Her gear
0 2177
held, preventing her from hitting the
Frostbite - Exposure, Weather Alaska,
2013Denali National Park,13,
On June Mt.a McKinley, West Buttress
guided expedition
operated by Rainier Mountaineering
Inc. was caught near the summit of
Denali in a sudden storm. On the
descent to high camp at 17,200 feet,
all seven members (ages unknown) of
the group sustained varying degrees
of frostbite.
0 2178
The RMI expedition departed the
Lead Fall on Rock, Falling Rock - Inadequate
2013 Protection,
On Failure
August
17,200-foot 15 to Test
four
high Holds
experienced
camp towardBritish
the Columbia, Mt. Rob
climbers
summit at 12:30 p.m. on June 13.face
were climbing the south The
of Mt. Geikie.
group had been Thisat is a remote,
high camp for alpine-
11
style rock climb located at the western
portion of the Rampart Mountains in
Tonquin Valley. They were climbing
roped in teams of two, both parties
staying in close proximity to each
0 2180
other. At approximately 10 a.m., one
Avalanche - Weather, Poor Position Colorado,
2014 RockyAboutMountain
3 p.m. onNational Park, Dragon's
November 21, two Tail Spire
climbers were ascending Enter the
Dragon (AI4 M4 Steep Snow) on the
southeast aspect of Dragon’s Tail
Spire. The leader (Climber 1) was
about 60 feet below a fixed anchor at
the end of their third pitch when he
triggered a wind-slab avalanche on
0 2181
the snow slope above. Climber 1 just
Avalanche – Poor Position, Inadequate Equipment
2014 OnNew Hampshire,
January 17 a Mt.
partyWashington,
of 12 was Huntington Ravine,
ascending Central Gully in Huntington
Ravine in four teams when one rope
team triggered a soft slab avalanche.
The avalanche swept over the three
other rope teams, carrying one to the
bottom of the gully. This team was not
buried, but sustained injuries. The
0 2182
remaining three teams were able to
Avalanche, Hypothermia — Fatigue, Exceeding
2014 Abilities, Failure to
David Laurienti Follow
(43) and Route Colorado, Rocky Moun
Lisa Foster
(45) were caught in an avalanche on
the evening of March 17 while
descending from Ypsilon Mountain
(13,514 feet). The pair had departed
from the Lawn Lakes trailhead at 3:15
a.m. on the morning of March 16 with
the intent of climbing Ypsilon via the
0 2183
Blitzen Ridge route and descending
 parties who may not know enough to
make informed decisions.
Communicating the hazard: Paige had
concerns as soon as they reached the
belay ledge, but she did not insist on
Fall Into Crevasse - Injured Leg From Jumping
2014 Over Crevasse
"Onanchor,
an June 30, orCalifornia,
the U.S.on
at least Mt.anchor-
MarineShasta,
Corps Hotlum Glacier
Mountain
quality Warfareon
protection Training
the pitch.Center
She out
of Bridgeport
also held backwas on Mt. Shasta
on saying something
conducting
when Sam kepttraining exercises
falling on that when
single
Seargent
cam. These Ruiz can (25)
be attempted
uncomfortable to jump
over a crevasse at around
social situations, and Sam was 11,500
feet. Upon landing
responsible for his on ownthe other side
decisions, butof
the crevasse, he injured his
being tied to him, Paige’s life was also knee and
0 2184
fell back
in his into the
hands. crevasse.toThe other
A hesitation
Fall Into Crevasse - Traveling Unroped 2014
on a Glacier Alaska,
At the endSt.of Elias
March, Range, Middle
I (Colin Haley,Peak
communicate is often a factor in
28) left for a climbing trip in Alaska’s
climbing accidents, as it is in many
St. Elias Range with Portlanders John
other fields.
Frieh and Daniel Harro. We were
Helmets: They’re quite hard to crack.
flown into the range by Paul Claus
Sam’s helmet may have prevented a
midday on April 1. We spent a few
debilitating or fatal injury.
hours setting up our base camp and
After the fall: In a case like this the
then went for a short ski up-glacier to
0 2185 best action may be to stay put, given
scope our objective. About 20 minutes
2014 Rock,the
Fall on Rock California, Idyllwild, Tahquitz On risk
The
MayBatof worsening
Crack
17, Lucas Dunn a serious injury.
(21) fell 300
But
feet to his death while rappellingatfrom
with no way to call for help,
least
the toponeof of
thethem had to (5.11a),
Bat Crack move. (Athe
whistle can pitches
first of four be useful onfor theraising
Vampire the
alarm.)
(5.11a).WhenAccordingSam to finally
Dunn’scontacted
partner,
the
Greg NPS, histhe
Davis, report
fatalwas so mild
accident likely
(though
occurredunintentionally
due to rockfallso) that it
encountered
raised
during notheconcern
rappel. “Iand we directed
heard a crash
0 2186 nearby staff to meet them on foot.down
Yet
and turned to see Lucas coming
Fall on Rock Colorado, Eldorado Canyon 2014
State Park
On March
Paige’s 17 at injuries
internal 11:15 a.m., wereBoulder
quite
County
close toSheriff’s Office, Rocky and
being life-threatening
Mountain Rescue,
time-critical. Once we andgot Rocky
a clearer
Mountain
picture of Fire
whatresponded
had happened, to Eldorado
we
State Park onshifted
immediately a report intoofhigh
a fallen
gear.
climber.
Sam mayRocky
not have Mountain
understoodFire andthe
Rocky
potential danger or how to give a the
Mountain Rescue located clear
injured party,can
report. One who wasabout
learn identified
bothas of
0 2187
Scott
these Clark
topics(28). Scott was climbing
in a Wilderness First
Fall on Rock - Inadequate Protection, No
2014
Belay Anchor, Off Route, Exceeding Abilities California, Yosem
Responder class. (Sources: Paige
and John Dill, NPS Ranger.)
(Editor’s note: This narrative from
2012 did not appear in the last edition
because of its length and a few
missing details. The lessons
illustrated are important enough to
0 2188 On March
warrant 7 a male
inclusion thisclimber,
year.) about 20
years old, fell on lead while attempting
Fall on Rock, Attempting to Clip Bolt Kentucky,
2014 Muir Valley
to clip the first bolt and sustained a
fractured ankle when he impacted the
ground.
Analysis
Muir Valley provides loaner stick clips
at no charge to its visitors. This
climber declined to borrow one.
0 2189 (Source: Rick Weber, Muir Valley.)
 Fall on Rock, Belayer Error, Inexperience
2014
Colorado, Boulder
In July, Canyon
Scott Jones (22) was dropped
from the top of Iron Maiden (5.9) in
Boulder Canyon by a belayer he had
met through a climbing community
web site. Scott describes the incident:
“I should establish that this was not a
typical rapping/lowering
miscommunication. I was the first to
0 2190
lead the route, and we established
Fall on Rock, Bouldering Colorado, Eldorado
2014 Canyon
On MayState11
Park
a man (32) was
bouldering Germ Free Adolescence
(V5+) when he intentionally let go
rather than attempt to downclimb or
continue up. He fell about 10 feet
straight onto a crash pad. Despite a
spotter assisting his landing, the fall
badly broke the climber’s right ankle,
0 2191
possibly due to a rock that was under
Fall on Rock, Cam Pulled Out Colorado,2014
StauntonOnState Park
September 29 a male fell while
leading an unnamed route on Elk
Creek Spires, on the north side of the
park. His top piece of protection, a
camming device, pulled out. He lost
consciousness in the fall and suffered
a fractured arm. Evacuation required
the use of a helicopter. (Source:
0 2192
Mountainproject.com.)
Fall on Rock, Carabiner Broke – Improperly
2014 Loaded
On Kentucky,
March 29Red River Gorge,
a climber on MercyThe the
Flank Wall
Huff (5.12b) fell at the eighth bolt. This
bolt is located at the lip of a little black
“rooflet.” After clipping the bolt, the
climber made a long move to a crimp,
attempted to make another move, and
fell. The bolt-side carabiner on the
draw “snapped” at the top radius in
0 2193
the fall, resulting in a longer and
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped
2014Colorado,
On JuneElk Mountains, Thunder Pyramid
23, Steve Gladbach (52), a
highly experienced mountaineer, was
reported missing by two companions
who had summited Thunder Pyramid
(13,932 feet) with him. Gladbach was
downclimbing and was ahead of his
partners when they realized he had
not arrived at a rendezvous point.
0 2194
Gladbach had told them that he was
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Route, Lack
2014 of Communication
On July 19 atColorado, ElkPitkin
7 p.m., the Mountains, Capitol Peak
County Sheriff’s Office received the
report of an overdue climber on
Capitol Peak (14,130 feet). Climbing
partners stated that after reaching the
summit via the northeast ridge (which
requires crossing the exposed, Class
4 Knife Edge ridge), Ryan Palmer (35)
0 2196
attempted to climb down the north
 desperate attempt to arrest the fall,
gripped the rope flying out of the
Grigri, damaging the skin on the palm
of his hand.
Two Muir Valley Rescue volunteers
Fall on Rock, Falling Rock Colorado, Rocky
2014 Mountain
were National
On August
nearby 16,Park,
and Longsout
Christian
called Peak
Mason (34)
the rescue
took a immediately
group roped fall of afteraboutthe 50fall.
feet and
suffered numerous
Additional rescuers,injuries
including after
anbeing
hit by fallingroom
emergency rock while
nursesimul-climbing
who
in the NorthtoChimney
happened be on site, (5.5), below the
responded to
Diamond face. Rockfall
the call. Ten minutes into the reportedly hit
him while he
operation, was in called
rescuers the lead. for a
Fortunately, he was
helicopter and the Wolfe roped and did
County SARnot
0 2197
fall to the base of the east
Team to assist if needed. The carry face of
Fall on Rock, Free Solo Climbing, Off Route
2014 Colorado,
On July Montrose,
10 the body BlackofCanyon
Andrew of M.
the Gunnison Nationa
out from the cliff went very smoothly.
Barnes (27) was found at the base of
The climber was transported to the
the Painted Wall below Serpent Point.
waiting helicopter and flown to a level-
Based on evidence found at the
one trauma center in Lexington. He
scene, and also from talking to his
suffered lacerations and a
friends and climbing partners,
concussion. He wasn’t wearing a
investigators believe he was
helmet. (Source: Rick Weber, Muir
attempting to free solo the Southern
0 2198 Valley.)
Arête (5.10 R). However, his body
2014 Analysis
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection - Misperception
On California, Yosemite National
June 24, Australian climber Park,
Shane Leaning Tower,
The
HoubartGrigri is designed
(29) was on his assecond
an assisted-
day
braking device,
of attempting to and
soloboth trained
the West andof
Face
untrained
Leaning Tower belayers(GradeoftenV get5.7 aC2).
false
sense of security
After lunch while using
at Ahwahnee Ledge,it. he
Overall,
began aiding the Grigri
up and is aright
safeon andpitch
effective
five. Shane device
had in the hands decided
consciously of an
experienced
to “run it out,” judging that the to
user. It’s important
0 2199 note that the
steepness of manufacturer
the route would has never
protect
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection - Rappel
2014 Error
On Colorado,
April 6the
marketed aClear
male Creek
Grigri as Canyon
climber (62) was
a “hands-free”
killed after
belay device. falling
Petzlfrom the top of that
recommends
itLevada (5.8+),use
is for expert an 80-foot
only, and rock climb
notes
at the“as
that, farwith
westallend of the and
climbing Canal Zone
crag. According activities,
mountaineering to witnesses, it is he was
off belay and
essential standing
to master theon top of the
techniques
route, and was beginning
and understand the limitationsto clean
on the
anchor in order to rappel.
using this product in these activities. He fell in a
0 2200
horizontal position without
Practice the techniques...in a a rope,
Fall on Rock, Inexperienced Belayer, Improper
2014 Use of a GriGri – No Helmet Kentucky, Muir Valley, The
managed environment before using
them in a real situation.” (Source:
Aram Attarian.)
(Editor’s note: Excellent instructional
information on using a Grigri properly,
including a video tutorial, can be
found at petzl.com/en/outdoor/belay-
0 2201 devices/grigri.)
Fall on Rock, Overconfidence, Nut Pulled
2014
Out Kentucky, Red River
On September 28Gorge,
a malePistol Ridge
climber
named Roro fell while climbing Way of
the Peaceful Warrior (5.10a). He fell
off the bouldery first section of the
route, and his first placement (a No. 8
nut) behind a thin flake pulled. This
section of the route is very tricky to
protect and run-out.
0 2202
Analysis
 Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inadequate
2014 Belay
Late Colorado, BoulderofCanyon
in the afternoon August 22,
two male climbers (both 24) fell
approximately 70 feet while
attempting the Spoils (5.12a/b) on Bell
Buttress. The accident occurred after
the leader rested on a piece of
protection he had placed before the
first bolt. The leader attempted the
0 2203
next move and came off, pulling the
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inadequate
2014 Belay Colorado,
On August 22,Rocky
CoreyMountain National
Stewart (22) fell Park, Lumpy R
30 feet while leading on Batman
Pinnacle at Lumpy Ridge. CPR was
begun minutes later by people at the
scene, but they were unable to revive
him. According to witnesses, Stewart
fell off, some gear pulled out, he
landed on and then went off the belay
0 2204
ledge, and the belayer was pulled off
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No2014
Helmet Colorado,
On August Boulder Canyon (20) was
31 a woman
seriously injured when she fell
approximately 30 to 40 feet after a
piece of gear pulled while she was
climbing on the Happy Hour Crag.
According to her belayer, she was
somewhat run-out when she placed
her third cam and made one or two
0 2205
more moves. She slipped and pulled
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error - Inadequate2014
Rappel Anchor,
On JulyFailure to Follow
6, a female Route(42)
climber California,
was Sierra Nevad
seriously injured while descending the
southeast face of Mt. Emerson (5.4).
Sometime around 1 p.m. she fell
approximately 100 feet down a wide,
85° chimney while she was rappelling
off the route. A single nut or cam was
used as the anchor and it failed. Falls
0 2206
of such a distance are often fatal, so
Fall on Snow Alaska, Mt. McKinley, Denali
2014 Pass On May 28 a team of five Polish
climbers fell while descending the
upper mountain above Denali Pass.
They descended on their own power
to the 17,200- foot camp on the West
Buttress route and contacted an NPS
ranger patrol there. One climber (39)
reported a lower-leg injury and that
0 2207
she had trouble walking. Another (37)
Fall on Snow Alaska, Mt. McKinley, West2014Buttress
About 5 p.m. on June 23, a female
client (28) on the AMS-Hamill
expedition fell while negotiating the
bergschrund at the base of the fixed
lines at 15,400 feet on Denali’s West
Buttress route. At the time of the fall,
her left arm was wrapped around the
fixed line, which resulted in distal
0 2208
radius and ulna fractures. The
 Fall on Snow - Pulled Off By Teammates 2014
Alaska,On
Mt.July
McKinley,
7, LiliaWest Buttress(46), an
Telenkevic
experienced client on the Mt-19-7
Summits expedition, was pulled off
her feet by her rope team while
descending below the fixed lines, at
around 15,000 feet, on the West
Buttress route. During the fall she
twisted her left knee.
0 2209
NPS personnel at the 14,200-foot
Falling Ice California, Mt. Shasta, Avalanche
2014 Gulch
On
camp June
were27,notified
Jameson Brown
July (30s),
8 and a
Sierra
assessed Telenkevic’s injury.(SWS)
Wilderness Seminars Medical
guide, was struck
assessment by a large
confirmed ice
the victim’s leg
boulder in the lower leg and knocked
off his feet. Ranger Nick Meyers was
notified by SWS’s Dave Cressman
about 8:15 a.m. Cressman stated that
Brown could not walk and potentially
0 2210
had broken his leg/ankle and needed
Falling Rock Kentucky, Red River Gorge, 2014
GlobalOn
Village
May 13, I (Matt Queen, 32) was
gearing up at the base of Father and
Son (5.7) when a member of my
party, climbing above me, dislodged a
block weighing approximately 10
pounds while traversing between the
anchors of Father and Son and the
adjacent route Kentucky Pinstripe.
0 2211
Both routes start on a very large
Falling Rock - Belayer Struck California,
2014
Yosemite
OnNational
June 2,Park, El Capitan,
British climbersEast Buttress
Felix
Kiernan (28) and Luke Jones (27)
began an ascent of the East Buttress
of El Capitan (5.10b). There was one
rope team ahead of them, but
because the British party was moving
faster, the other team let them pass at
the second belay. Jones describes
0 2212
what happened next: “Now, with the
HAPE Alaska, Mt. McKinley, West Buttress2014 On June 2, a client (43) on a guided
trip was evacuated with a severe case
of high-altitude pulmonary edema
(HAPE). The guides had contacted
rangers about one of their clients who
seemed to be exhibiting signs and
symptoms of HAPE. Rangers
conducted an evaluation and agreed
0 2213
that the patient appeared to be
HAPE California, Sierra Nevada, Elinore 2014
Lake Four intermediate mountaineers
ascended the South Fork of Big Pine
Creek on August 30 to do some
alpine climbing. They camped at
Elinore Lake (about 11,000 feet), and
on August 31 they headed up Scimitar
Pass with the intention of climbing Mt.
Sill. One of the team members,
0 2214
Robert Gertz (28), mentioned feeling
 Inadequate Protection - Misperception of
2014
Difficulty
OnCalifornia, Yosemite
May 13, Peter (31)National Park,
and Alain Half Dome
(26),
both from France, were climbing pitch
six of the Regular Northwest Face (VI
5.9 C1), hauling a bag for a bivouac at
Big Sandy Ledge. Peter took a 20-foot
lead fall on the crack labeled “5.9
polished fingers” in the Supertopo
guidebook. One piece of protection
0 2215
pulled and he landed on a ledge,
Inadequate Protection, Pulled Off Rock 2014
Block — OnFallthe
On morning
Rock, Rock Severed
of May 19,Rope
MasonCalifornia, Yosemite
Robison (38) was killed in a fall while
leading pitch 27 of the Muir Wall (VI
5.9 A2) on El Capitan. This pitch,
rated C1, heads up a left-facing
dihedral for 20 feet, traverses left
around a small roof, and then
continues up the dihedral. After
0 2216
placing three cams for aid above the
Inadequate Rappel Anchor, Fall On Rock,2014
FallingOn
Rock California,
February 25,Joshua Tree National
my daughter HelenPark
(16) and I (47) attempted to find an
area where I’d climbed the previous
week, but we couldn’t find it so we
decided to climb a little crag that
looked like mostly class four or easy
class five. My limited previous lead
climbing experience had been about
0 2217
5.3, so this seemed like a safe climb
Inadequate Water, Fatigue, Unfamiliar With
2014 Descent
On California,
August 13,Yosemite
Mike (21) National Park, Royal Arches, N
and Russell
(19) climbed Royal Arches (15
pitches, 5.7 A0). They finished late in
the day, hiked along the rim to
Washington Column, and began their
descent via the North Dome Gully
climbers’ trail shortly before dusk. By
this time they were almost out of
0 2218
water and feeling dehydrated. Near
Loss of Control - Voluntary Glissade California,
2014 Mt.
On Shasta,
June 16,Avalanche
a climberGulch,
(33) Near
was
glissading on the Avalanche Gulch
route at approximately 11,700 feet
when he lost control and injured his
shoulder. Apparently he had had
surgery on the shoulder in the past
and was familiar with the injury. The
climber was in the process of self-
0 2219
rescuing when he was contacted by
Loss of Control - Voluntary Glissade California,
2014 Mt.
On Shasta,
FebruaryCascade
18 at Gulch
11:30 a.m.,
dispatch informed me (Celeste
Fowler) of an overdue climber, J.
Scherer (31), on Mt. Shasta. The
reporting party was B. Thompson.
Thompson gave the following
account. On February 17, he and
Scherer began to climb Mt. Shasta.
0 2220
As they were descending by glissade,
 Near Miss – Rope-Soloing With A Stuck 2014
Rope That
OnAppeared
December To3,BeI Fixed
(Ryan,California,
31) wentYosemite
to National
Arch Rock to rope-solo fixed routes. I
had heard there was a rope on
Supplication (5.10c), and I had
wanted to get on that route for more
than a year. (Note: Fixed-rope soling
is free climbing while belayed by
ascension devices connecting the
1 2221
climber to a fixed rope. It is a top-rope
Punch Through Snow, Leg Stuck California,
2014 Mt. Shasta,
On inGreen
LateJanuary Butte/Sargents
20, Ranger
the afternoon Ridge
on Nick Meyers
October 6, a
was
male climber (22), after cleaning SAR
notified by Siskiyou County the
of an injured
anchors on Ratsolo climber,
Stew Aaron
(5.10a), a 75-
Pessah
foot (25),
climb, fellon the Green 60 feet
approximately
Butte/Sargents
after rappelling offRidge
the route
end ofatone
11,300
of
feet.rope
his He was apparently
strands. unable
He suffered to
internal
walk or descend
injuries, includingdue to a kneelung,
a lacerated and
leg injury.
broken Meyers
ribs, responded
two broken to
vertebrae, a
0 2222
Bunnycontusion,
head Flat with USFS
and a snowmobiles
concussion.
Rappel Error - No Knots on Ends of Rope,
2014Lack of Communication Kentucky, Red River Gorge, Muir Val
Analysis
According to reports, he did not check
to be sure both ends of his rope were
on the ground, nor did his belayer
warn him the ropes were grossly
uneven. He also did not tie blocking
knots on the rope ends. (Source: Rick
0 2223 Weber, Muir Valley.)
Rockfall, Poor Position, Inadequate Equipment
2014 Colorado,
During the Sanweekend
Juan Mountains,
of JuneEl29-30,
Diente Peak
my son and I climbed the North
Buttress Route (Class 3) on El Diente
Peak (14,165 feet) and subsequently
made the traverse to Mt. Wilson
(14,252 feet). We had four
experienced people in our party and
were careful to stay out of the fall line
0 2224
of each other. To save time, we had
Stranded - Darkness, Inadequate Equipment
2014Colorado,
AboutEldorado
6 p.m. on Canyon State26,
January Park
Tim
Holm (22), Davis Gray (22), and Josh
Jordan (21) became stranded on the
fifth pitch of the Yellow Spur (5.10a)
on Redgarden Wall. Rescuers
received a call for assistance from
another climber in the area, who
reported hearing a male yelling for
1 2225
help. The reporting party yelled back
Stranded - Darkness, Inadequate Equipment
2014Colorado, Eldorado
On August 15 Canyon State
at 1 a.m., Park, Redgarden Wall
Rocky
Mountain Rescue Group, Rocky
Mountain Fire, an American Medical
Response ambulance, and the
Boulder County Sheriff’s Office
responded to Redgarden Wall due to
a report of a stranded climber. Kyle
Willis (27) and Ryan Watts (24) had
1 2226
been climbing in the area and became
 Stranded - Rope Stuck, Darkness, Inadequate
2014 Clothing
DuringColorado,
the earlyBoulder,
eveningThird Flatiron
of January
26, three climbers (two males, one
female) became stranded while
climbing the Standard Direct (5.2) on
the East Face of the Third Flatiron.
The group had decided to descend
from partway up the route and was
preparing a rappel when their rope
2 2228
became stuck above them, stranding
Stranded - Weather, Inexperience Colorado,
2014 Boulder,
AboutFirst Flatiron
9:45 p.m. on June 28, the
Boulder County Communications
Center received a call from three
climbers (two males, one female)
stuck on the first pitch of Fandango
(5.5) on the First Flatiron. Not long
after that, an intense storm cell moved
over the area, bringing hail, heavy
0 2229
rain, and widespread lightning.
Stranded, Rappel Error - Forgot To Untie
2014
Knot California,
"On JulyYosemite National
26, Ted (25) and Park, Royal Arches
Stephanie
(23) climbed Royal Arches (Grade III
5.7 A0). They started at 10:30 a.m.
Ted, with 4.5 years of experience
versus Stephanie’s one year, was the
team leader. The climb took a lot
longer than they expected, so they
didn’t begin the rappels until 1 a.m. on
0 2230
the 27th. They were climbing with one
Avalanche - Climbing Alone and Unroped2014New Hampshire,
On MarchMt. Washington,
1, James Huntington
“Jimmy” Watts Ravine, Pinnacle
died as a result of injuries sustained in
an avalanche in Pinnacle Gully.
Jimmy left the Harvard
Mountaineering Club cabin near the
base of Huntington Ravine, intending
to climb multiple gullies. Based on
earlier conversations and by tracking
0 2231
his footprints in new snow, it’s believe
Avalanche, Fall on Snow/Ice - Inadequate
2014
Equipment,
On theInadequate
morningProtection,
of May 18,Weather,
we (CoryExceeding Abilitie
Smith, 26, author of this report;
Sydney Seyfart, 30; and Tim Smith,
23) were at about 13,000 feet on
Liberty Ridge, just above the Black
Pyramid. We were 1,100 feet below
the summit of Liberty Cap and the end
of the technical terrain. The night
0 2232
before we finished the last of our
Fall into Crevasse - Snow Bridge Collapsed,
2014 Climbing Unroped Oregon,
Our team—Craig Mt. Jefferson,
Hanneman (64), Whitewater Glacie
Mark Morford (56), Bob Alexander
(56), and Jim Walkley (40)—was
traversing the Whitewater Glacier at
about 1 p.m. on July 20, after
successfully summiting via the
Jefferson Park Glacier route. We were
traveling unroped, and our helmets
0 2233
and crampons were stowed.
 Fall on Ice, Climbing Alone and Unroped2014
New Hampshire,
Mark, Pete, Crawford Notch, Frankenstein
and I (Jesse Morenz) Cliffs
headed up to the Whites early
Saturday morning, March 16, to train
for our upcoming Liberty Ridge climb.
We arrived at the Frankenstein
parking lot at 12:30 p.m. and planned
on getting in two climbs before our
larger alpine climb the next day. We
0 2235
decided to climb the first two pitches
Fall on Rock - Fatigue, Inadequate Protection,
2014 Exceeding Abilities
My daughter Utah,
Alex (27)Little
had Cottonwood Canyon, Beck
demonstrated very good climbing and
protection skills the previous summer
when she took me up a two-pitch, 5.7
trad route. Now it was May 11, and
neither she nor I had climbed much
since. Since she is young and strong
(and I am neither at over 70), I
0 2238
thought she could lead Beckey’s Wall,
Fall on Rock - Rope Severed on Sharp Edge,
2014 Inadequate
A partyProtection Minnesota,
of approximately 15Sandstone ice cliff
volunteers was cleaning routes for the
ice climbing season at the Sandstone
ice cliff. Volunteers’ levels of
experience ranged from great to little.
The victim volunteered to go on
rappel to clean the face of a new
route and was handed an 11mm static
0 2239
rope. Having no other gear with her
Fall on Rock - Very Large Handhold Broke
2014Free Wyoming,
On June 20 Grand Teton
at 2:26 National
p.m., TetonPark, Mt. Owen, Cresce
Interagency Dispatch Center
transferred an emergency cell phone
call from Jeff Judkins (38) to Rescue
Coordinator G. Montopoli. Judkins
was climbing on the Crescent Arête
(Grade III, 5.7) of Mt. Owen with
climbing partner Brian Smith (37). He
0 2240
was several rope pitches up and lead-
Fall on Rock, Carabiner Unclipped From 2014
Bolt New Hampshire,
Bonehead Rumney,
Roof Bonehead
is a 5.10d climbRoof
with
a classic “Rumney Runout”: five bolts
protect the route. The first bolt is
about 20 feet off of the ground. The
initial two-thirds of the climb are
approximately 5.8, containing three
bolts. A slope of about 20 or 30
degrees (not totally flat, but not very
0 2241
steep) for maybe 20 feet leads to the
Fall on Rock, Falling Rock New Mexico, 2014
Sandia Mountains
In the early afternoon of March 29,
parties called 911 and reported “cries
for help near the Upper La Luz Trail in
Upper La Cueva Canyon.” Bernalillo
County Sheriff officers located Carlos
Cox (35) by helicopter at the
northeastern base of the Tridents,
near the top of the upper, snow-
0 2242
covered couloir. There was no report
 Fall on Rock, Falling Rock - Failure to Test
2014Holds, InadequatetoBelay
According Humphrey's
two reports, Ledge, Tree Keys
someone
fell after the second bolt on Tree Keys
at the Geriatric Walls on September
14. The belayer (age unknown)
received significant rope burns on her
hands.
As reported, the belayer lost control of
the rope as the leader was falling
0 2243
when she tripped while trying to
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection Montana,
2014 Hyalite
On
dodge Canyon,
September Practice
rockfall. Rockshenamed
21 a climber
However, then
Michael Parker fell 30 to 40 feet from
Practice Rock. Officials said Parker
had failed to secure his anchor. It took
more than 35 rescuers about an hour
and a half to get him off the side of
the mountain, due to rough terrain.
Parker had suffered a broken ankle,
0 2245
broken lumbar vertebrae, and a head
Fall on Rock, Lowering Error - New Situation
2014 West OnVirginia,
August 26New myRiver Gorge
partner National
Sean (27) River, Fern Buttr
and I (28) were climbing Transporter
Crack (5.6). Sean set up a Black
Diamond ATC-Guide device in guide
mode to belay me from above. When I
was ready to lower, instead of taking
me off belay and switching to a more
practical lowering system, Sean
0 2248
decided to practice lowering using the
Fall on Rock, Off Route, Protection Pulled
2014Out West
On Virginia, Seneca Rock
April 8, Stephen Robinson (22)
was climbing off-route near Orangeaid
(5.10b), close to the last pitch of
Castor, when he fell after placing a
fifth piece of gear. The fall caused his
top three placements (a nut, a 0.75
cam, and an offset nut) to pull. This
resulted in at least a 40-foot fall,
0 2249
putting him 15 feet below the belay.
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out North
2014
Carolina, Hanging Rock
I witnessed State Park,
an accident on Moores
June 8 Wall
that teaches a good lesson and luckily
had an okay outcome. The climber
was a strong and competent, but new
to the area. I watched him easily climb
Nuclear Crayon (5.10c R) and
Quakerstate (5.10d/11a). After
onsighting both he started Stab in the
0 2250
Dark (5.10d).
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out - No2014
Helmet, "On
Exceeding
AugustAbilities New Hampshire,
10 a climber in his mid Cathedral
to Ledge, B
late 20s was leading Nutcracker
(5.10a) on the Barber Wall. He fell
and at least one of his pieces pulled,
causing him to flip backward. He hit
his head before falling to the ground.
He was not wearing a helmet.
The Mountain Rescue Service
0 2251
mobilized, and after more than two
hours of effort got him to the top, a
little before dark. This required a litter
 Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Compromised
2014 OnRope-Carrying
the afternoonCarabiner
of June Tennessee,
30 the parkSunset Rock, Chi
received a report of a serious fall and
injury to a male climber (30)
approximately one mile from Sunset
Rock in the Celebrity Flake area on
Lookout Mountain. The climber, who
was wearing a helmet, fell
approximately 50 feet and landed on
0 2252
his head.
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No2014
Helmet Maine,
On AprilAcadia National
28, Will Park, The
Raymond (agePrecipice,
21) Old Town
was leading Old Town, a popular 5.7
corner climb. Nearing the top of the
first corner, which is typically climbed
as a lieback, he slipped and fell. The
camming unit that he had placed for
protection failed, and he fell to the
ground. He was not wearing a helmet
0 2253
and suffered head and spine injuries.
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error Oregon, Smith
2014
Rock State
On MayPark,11
Wherever I May Deschutes
at 5:15 p.m., Roam
County 911 received a call from Ryan
Orr (29) reporting that his climbing
partner, Kathy Pawelski (34), had
sustained injuries after falling on
Wherever I May Roam (5.9). Orr said
that Pawelski had fallen about 30 feet
while rappelling, and that the two of
0 2254
them were stuck on a narrow ledge
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error - Uneven and2014
Unknotted
MyRopes Newpartner
climbing Hampshire,
and ICathedral
were Ledge, Child's Play
involved in a rescue on July 23 when
a climber in his early 20s fell while
descending Child’s Play (5.5) at
Cathedral Ledge. We had just come
down from Recluse at the North End
and were packing up around 2:30
p.m. A party had finished Child’s Play,
0 2255
the line directly to the right of Recluse.
Fall on Snow (Crevasse Jump), Exceeding2014
Abilities
OnWashington, Mt. Rainier,
July 21 at 1:30 Emmons/Winthrop
p.m., mountain
guide Chris Watson reported an
injured climber via 911. Watson, who
was with another guide, reported that
Rody Senner (31) had jumped over a
crevasse at 11,300 feet on the
Emmons/Winthrop route. She
sustained a possible tibia-fibula
0 2257
fracture. Watson reported Senner was
Fall on Snow - Poor Snow Conditions, Guide
2014 Distraction
On June Wyoming,
17, afterGrand Teton
climbing theNational
Grand Park, Grand Te
Teton and descending in the shade on
hard, frozen snow with crampons, we
came across an area that had been in
the sun for less than an hour. We
were 10 meters above a large ledge.
We moved over to follow the footsteps
we had used during the ascent. As we
0 2258
descended my right footstep
 Fall on Snow - Ski Mountaineering Washington,
2014 Mt.
On Rainier,
July 7 aEmmons/Winthrop
nine-person ski-
mountaineering party from Canada
summited Rainier via the
Emmons/Winthrop Glaciers route. On
the descent, one member of the team
(47) fell while skiing and sustained
multiple traumatic injuries. He landed
in what’s known as the Alpine
0 2259
Meadow, a flat area near 13,500 feet
Fall on Snow, Climbing Alone Oregon, 2014
Mt. Hood,On West Side
June 22, Kinley Adams (59), an
experienced climber, registered to
climb Leuthold’s Couloir. It appears
that he got off route, crossed the
Yocum Ridge, and continued to the
upper headwall section of the Sandy
Glacier. Apparently he slipped or was
hit by falling rocks and suffered a long
0 2260
fall. He was located at 8,400 feet by
Fall on Snow, Climbing Alone, Exceeding
2014
Abilities
OnOregon,
AugustMt.11,Hood, Cooper
Sebastian Spur
Kinasiewicz
(32), a Polish military officer reported
to be a novice climber, attempted a
summit climb via the Cooper Spur
route. He was reported overdue.
Hood River Crag Rat volunteers were
able to find and follow his tracks until
they abruptly ended 100 feet below
0 2261
the summit. A Blackhawk aircrew
Falling Rock - Fall on Rock, Not Anchored
2014Washington,
The body North Cascades
of Tyler National
Barton Park, Forbidden Peak
(31) from
Seattle was recovered in North
Cascades National Park on Sunday,
September 15, by park rangers,
supported by a contracted helicopter
from HiLine Helicopters of Darrington.
Barton and his partner had summited
Forbidden Peak via the west ridge on
0 2263
September 14 and were descending
Inadequate Equipment - No Sunglasses,2014
Snow Blindness
On June Washington, Mt. Rainier,
8, a little before 7 a.m.,Camp Muir
rangers at Camp Muir received
notification of a 32-year-old female
climber from New York City having
difficulty opening her eyes due to pain
and swelling. Rangers assessed the
individual and determined her eye
problems were most likely due to
0 2265
snow blindness; she hadn’t worn
Inadequate Protection - Rappel Anchor 2014
Washington,
OnNorth
July 6Cascades National Park,
two experienced Mt. Goode, Southwest
climbers
summited Mt. Goode (9,200 feet) via
the northeast buttress. They started
their descent via the southwest
couloir, a standard descent route. At
8,400 feet, one climber fell when the
rappel anchor failed. He suffered an
open elbow and arm fracture, among
0 2266
other injuries, and was initially
 Loss of Control - Voluntary Glissade Wyoming,
2014 Grand
At 3:45Teton
p.m.National
on JulyPark,
12, I Hanging
(Ron Canyon
Johnson) was notified of a request to
assist an injured person in Hanging
Canyon. The climber (first name
“Frank”) stated that his partner, Loren
Hall (33), was at their camp with an
injured leg. Frank was descending
Hanging Canyon to get help.
0 2267
Hall had injured his leg around 10:15
Rappel Error - Inadequate Protection, Climbing
2014 Alone,
On Inexperienced
a.m.September
while 18, New
descending York,
Ronald
from aAlbany, Thatcher Park
Czajkowski
(44) fell 120 feet to his death
successful climb of the Jaw. They at
Thatcher Park, according
were sit-glissading to police.just
on a snowfield
“He had a harness and rope with him.
It appears it was human error as far
as attaching it to the anchor point on
top of the cliff,” said Captain John
Layton from the Albany County
0 2268
Sheriff’s Department.
Rockfall Wyoming, Grand Teton National 2014
Park, Garnet Canyon
On August 27, at 9:15 a.m., a large
rockslide occurred in the South Fork
of Garnet Canyon. A single climber
was buried and seriously injured when
his party of three was caught in the
outwash of a gully near the north side
of Nez Perce Peak.
The initial 911 call came into the
0 2271
Teton Interagency Dispatch Center at
Seizures - Complications from HACE, Pre-Existing
2014 On Condition
9:30August
a.m. via Washington,
17 at 5:30
cell Mt.
a.m.,
phone. Rainier,
an RMI to
According Disappointment C
guide (Dave Hahn) called Enumclaw
the reporting person, Truett Davis,
dispatch and reported that he was
guiding a 19-year-old client who had
gone into seizures at the top of
Disappointment Cleaver. The patient
was short-hauled and then transferred
to an air ambulance for definitive care
0 2272
at Harborview Hospital.
Stranded - Knee Jammed in Crack Wyoming,
2014 Vedauwoo,
On AprilEasy
21 aJam
climber (mid-20s) got
his knee stuck in the crack of a 40-
foot climb called Easy Jam (5.4) on
the Nautilus formation. Neil Mathison,
on duty as Albany County Sheriff’s
deputy, and Rick Colling, of the
Wyoming Highway Patrol, were on
scene by 4 p.m. Mathison, who is
0 2273
experienced in high-angle rescue,
Stranded - Weather Canada, Alberta, Jasper
2014National Park,
In the Mt.morning
early Edith Cavell, East Ridge
of August 9, two
climbers left the Cavell parking lot at
3:30 a.m. for an attempt on the east
ridge of Mt. Edith Cavell (3,363
meters, Grade III, 5.3). They
bypassed rock terrain to climb a snow
gully at the start of the route, which
added time to their ascent. Once into
0 2274
the more technical rock terrain, they
 Using a double or half rope system
would have decreased this risk. Other
accidents have been reported with
incorrectly tied knots as well. In the
future, I will only utilize this method
Stranded, Failed to Follow Route – Inadequate
2014 Food/Water/Clothing/Equipment
My climbing
when partner,
it is clear Marty
that the Nevada,
Goss
rappels (50)Red Rock, Pine C
are
and I, and
clean Paulthere
Spence (52),
is low met at Red
friction.
Rockregard
With for a week of climbing.it On
to self-rescue, may
Marchbeen
have 14 we had planned
feasible to ascend to climb
the
Cat in the Hat, a six-pitch
5mm pull cord with my 5mm prusiks, 5.6 trad
route
but weinfeltPine Creek
it was tooCanyon. We were
risky. It is
the
possible that I could have safelycould
only ones on the route and
see another
ascended theset of climbers
rope on the
without incident,
1 2276
opposite wall across the canyon.
but I was less zealous about pursuing By
Stranded, Inadequate Equipment New York,
2014 Lake George, Rogers Rock, Little Finger
this method for the following reasons:
(1) risk of the rope becoming unstuck
during ascension, and (2) uncertainty
about the strength of the 5mm pull
cord for ascending, given that it was
under significant tension and possibly
rubbing against the rock. (Source:
0 2277 Cedric Bien, 28.)
Stranded, Weather Canada, Yukon Territory,
2014 Kluane
TheNational
events in Park, Mt. Eaton
question occurred
between May 7 and May 19. Prior to
this, the climbers spent a week in
Haines, Alaska, waiting to fly in to the
Seward Glacier, during which time
storms broke precipitation records for
much of southeast Alaska. Forecasts
toward the end of this weather cycle
0 2278
projected a significant but short-lived
Weather - Benighted, Exceeding Abilities
2014
Washington, Mt. Rainier,
"On June Liberty
23, climber RidgeMoore
Patrick
(52) dialed 911 from his satellite
phone around 5 p.m. Patrick and his
partner, Peter Roach (mid-40s), had
climbed Liberty Ridge in deteriorating
weather. The ascent took them longer
than planned, and incoming weather
reduced visibility. Patrick and Peter
0 2279
felt uncomfortable navigating the
Weather - Overdue Washington, Mt. Rainier,
2014 Emmons/Winthrop
On August 25 a private party of five
climbers led by Marcos Franco (23)
attempted to summit Mt. Rainier via
the Emmons/Winthrop route. While
descending from the summit, they
experienced high winds and low
visibility and decided to shelter in
place. The following day they were
0 2280
unable to descend, due to inclement
Avalanche Canada, British Columbia, Glacier
2014 National
Around Park, Sifton
2 p.m. onColMarch 24, a party of
three began a ski descent of the
southwest slope below Sifton Col. It
was a mild, clear day with light winds.
Two members of the group remained
at the top of the slope, while one
skied down to assess conditions. The
skier triggered a size 2.5 slab
0 2281
avalanche near the middle of the
 Fall into Crevasse, Skiing Unroped Canada,
2014British
"AColumbia, Yohowas
party of three National Park, Daly
ski touring overGlacier, Wapta I
a number of days from Peyto Lake to
Sherbrooke Lake on the popular
Wapta Traverse. The group left
Balfour Hut around 11 a.m. on the
morning of March 12, and crossed
over the Balfour High Col
(approximately 3,000 meters) in the
0 2282
early evening, with near whiteout
Fall on Rock - Handhold Came Off Canada,
2014 Alberta,
On Banff
July 21National
a partyPark, Tunnel
of three wasMountain, Gooseberry
climbing Gooseberry, a seven-pitch,
5.7 rock route. The lead climber was
on pitch three when he dislodged a
loose handhold. He fell approximately
10 meters and landed on his back,
sustaining injuries. One partner
climbed up to the fallen climber while
0 2283
the second placed an emergency call
Rappel Error/Failure Canada, Alberta, Grassl
2014 Lakes,
TheFiberglass Undies
climber had prepared to rappel
from the top of a sport route. As the
rappeller descended she removed the
upper three quickdraws. Shortly after
that, the climber fell to the ground and
landed on her back. It was noted that
the rope ends were uneven. One rope
end was on the ground, and the other
0 2285
was six to eight meters up. There was
Rappel Error/Failure Canada, Alberta, Jasper
2014 National Park,
"In the Mt. Redoubt,
afternoon Northwest
of August Ridge
15, Visitor
Safety received a call about an
overdue solo climber on the northwest
ridge of Mt. Redoubt (3,120 meters,
Grade III, 5.6) in the remote Tonquin
Valley in Jasper National Park. Initial
investigation found that the climber
had missed his scheduled check-in
0 2286
time using a satellite phone the night
Rappel Error/Failure, Climbing Alone Canada,
2014 Ontario,
On May Dryden, Banana
6, a lone Lakewith 22
climber
years of experience headed out to the
Banana Lake climbing area. The pull-
off is four kilometers down a logging
road, and the walk to the cliff is one
kilometer. Between 9 and 10:30 a.m.,
the climber did some route cleaning
and placed two bolts on a new route.
0 2287
He then engaged in some roped
Stranded, Inadequate Equipment, Inexperience
2014 Canada,
On July British Columbia,
6 about 6 a.m.,Glacier
a partyNational
of Park, Uto Peak
three left the parking lot to climb the
southwest ridge of Uto Peak (2,927
meters). They had some difficulty with
the steep snow on the approach to
the Uto– Sir Donald col, due to very
lightweight footwear, and two group
members had limited experience,
1 2288
causing the party to take more time
 Avalanche – Climbing Unroped, Weather 2015
California,
On Laurel
April 6 Mountain,
my partner East Face,
(age 44)Mendenhall
and I Couloir
(age 29) set out to climb Laurel
Mountain (11,812’) via the Mendenhall
Couloir (3,000’, III, Class 4, Steep
Snow). We started hiking around 8
a.m. and reached the base of the
couloir by 8:45 a.m. The weather was
clear and the air temperature around
0 2289
40°F. The couloir contained enough
Exposure, Loss of Eyesight — Inadequate2015
Equipment
Our Washington,
party of eightMt. Baker base
departed
camp (ca 6,400’) for the Easton
Glacier route at approximately 1 a.m.
on June 9, 2013. It was very windy
and cold. We had to shout to be
heard, even in close proximity.
I noticed on the Roman Wall (steepest
section of the route) that Climber 1
0 2290
was slower than I would have
Fall on Rock Utah, Indian Creek, Supercrack
2015 Buttress
On the daybut
expected, before Thanksgiving,that
he communicated a
24-year-old climber was top-roping
her last climb of the day: Gorilla
(5.10). Approximately 15 feet up the
climb, her foot slipped out of a jam
while her left hand remained jammed
in the crack. As she fell, her hand
stayed stuck in the crack too long and
0 2291
she suffered a hairline fracture of her
Fall On Rock – Climbing Unroped California,
2015 Palisades, Temple
On August Crag
6 the Inyo County Sheriff’s
Office was contacted by a hiker who
reported an abandoned campsite near
Third Lake. Deputies learned the
camp belonged to Brenton Wright
(27), who had been in the Sierra for
one month, solo climbing various
classic mountain routes. On July 30
0 2292
he entered the Palisades region with
Fall on Rock – Climbing Unroped Utah,2015
Zion National Park, Spearhead
On October 19, Christopher Spencer
(47) of San Jose, California, was killed
after falling from the approach to Iron
Messiah (5.10+) on the Spearhead
formation. Spencer and his partner
were scrambling up the easy (low 5th
class) but exposed buttress to the
base of the technical pitches, when
0 2293
Spencer slipped and fell about 80
Fall on Rock – Exceeding Abilities, Inadequate
2015 Protection
On May Oregon, Smith
4, Forrest Rock
Koran State
(24) andPark, Zebra Zion
Suruthai Pokaratsiri-Goldstein (27)
began climbing a four-pitch trad route
called Zebra Zion (5.10a). The
climbers were members of an
“Advanced Rock” class hosted by a
local climbing organization. Koran led
the fourth and final pitch, placing two
0 2294
small cams before he fell with about
 Fall On Rock – Exceeding Abilities, Off-Route
2015 California, Tuolumne
It’s 10 a.m. Meadows,
on August 13 on Lembert
LembertDome, Northwes
Dome. Clank, clank, clunk. A yellow
object shoots down the cliff. Jeff Los
and I (both 23) start to chuckle at the
thought of Curtis Burrowes (24)
having to buy another number 2
Camalot. But laughter soon turns to
concern as the rope pulls taut on my
0 2295
right hand and a scream pierces
Fall On Rock – Inadequate Belay Roosevelt
2015National
On a Forest,
lovelyDream
springCanyon
day in April, I met
several friends at the Oceanic Wall in
Dream Canyon, a deep tributary of
Boulder Canyon. After several warm-
ups, I got on a 5.11d I had climbed
several times in the past. The crux
lies between the third and fifth bolts,
where the route steepens in a small
0 2296
bulge and the holds are small and far
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Belay South 2015
Dakota, Victoria
Jimmy Canyon, Foot31,
Burckhard, Fistwas
Wayclimbing
the bolted route Foot Fist Way (5.13a)
in a limestone canyon southwest of
Rapid City on September 26. He had
previously worked on the route a
couple of weeks earlier. On this day
he climbed partway up the route,
yelled “take,” and his belayer held him
0 2297
for a rest. He continued up the climb
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection Tennessee,
2015 Tennessee
My friendsWall,
and Ain’t
I had So Eazy to end a
decided
day of climbing in late February with a
5.9 arête called Ain’t So Eazy. No one
in our group had tried it before. Before
starting the climb I expressed some
concerns to my belayer: The bottom
holds were wet, the climb looked like it
wandered a lot, and it didn’t appear to
0 2298
protect well. Regardless, I pulled on
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection Utah,
2015Bell's On
Canyon, Bell's Beast
November 7, Michael Lydon (50)
was killed after falling down nearly a
full pitch of moderate terrain at the top
of Beast (5.11a), a five-pitch climb on
the Bell’s Beast formation. Lydon and
his partner, Chris Wood (33), had first
climbed Beauty (5.11b), then
rappelled to a ledge below pitch two of
0 2299
Beast. Chris led and linked the
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection, Top-Roping
2015 OnError Utah,
April 6 a Zion National
female climberPark, Kolob Canyon
(approximately 20 years old) broke
her leg after taking a large, swinging
top-rope fall from a sport climb in
Kolob Canyon. The climber was part
of a group of seven that visited the
very overhanging crag that day. The
group had one lead climber, who hung
0 2300
draws and left top-ropes on the two
 Fall On Rock – Misjudged Pendulum California,
2015 El
OnCapitan,
May 30The Nose took a large
a climber
pendulum fall while attempting the
King Swing (a 100-foot pendulum
from Boot Flake to Eagle Ledge) on
the Nose route (VI 5.9 C2) of El
Capitan. During the pendulum, the
climber failed to gain holds allowing
him to climb toward Eagle Ledge and
0 2301
consequently fell uncontrollably back
Fall on Rock – Off Route, Inadequate Protection
2015 California,
On June 21, Yosemite
2013, National Park,
I (61 years Tuolumne Meadows
old,
experienced climber) set out to climb
the Regular Route (III 5.9) up the
north face of Fairview Dome. I had
climbed the route at least a few times
before, including rope-soloing the
climb. Thus, while leading the fourth
pitch, well beyond the crux moves, I
0 2302
was quite surprised to fall.
Fall On Rock – Placed Inadequate Protection
2015 California,
On JulyTahquitz Rock,Tahquitz
13, I visited West Face, The Trough
Rock
with partner Brian (31) after a few-
year hiatus from climbing. I decided to
get us started by heading up the
Trough (4 pitches, 5.4), a climb well
within my ability level. On the first
pitch I placed gear every 10 to 15 feet
or so and climbed steadily past the
0 2303
first recommended belay ledge.
Fall on Rock – Protection Pulled Out Oregon,
2015 Smith
OnRock State19,
October Park,
TedChouinard's
Wogan (22)Crack
and
Climber 2 began climbing Chouinard’s
Crack (5.9) late in the afternoon.
Wogan placed one piece of protection
and followed it with a second piece at
25 feet. He initially placed a cam but
then, wanting to save the cam for
later, replaced it with a hex. At around
0 2304
30 feet, Wogan fell but was held by
Fall on Rock – Protection Pulled Out, Rockfall
2015 Utah,
On Glen
April Canyon Recreational
5, a 30-year-old Area,
male Lake Powell
climber
from Grand Junction, Colorado,
began aid soloing up Gregory Butte,
located near the mouth of Last
Chance Bay, at 7 a.m. A little after 9
a.m., he was over 500 feet up the wall
when a piece he had placed pulled
out, causing him to fall approximately
0 2305
30 feet. His fall was stopped by lower
Fall On Rock — Exceeding Abilities, No 2015
Helmet On
California,
January Joshua Tree National
1, Kennya PimentelPark,
(20)Hemingway Buttr
of Las Vegas, Nevada, fell while
climbing White Lightning (5.7) at the
Hemingway Buttress. Unable to place
protection or climb through a crux
section, she decided to downclimb
and lower off from about 100 feet up
the climb. However, while
0 2306
downclimbing she fell, swinging and
 was transported by ambulance to a
nearby medical facility for further
treatment.

ANALYSIS
Fall On Rock — Free Soloing, Off-Route 2015
California,
LateTuolumne Meadows,
in the afternoon onMatthes
AugustCrest
16,
Bradley
This is aParker
classic(36) was made
mistake free soloing
by
the Matthes Crest
inexperienced ridge that
belayers traverse (III
can be
5.7) when
simply he fellup:
summed approximately
no bight, no300
feet
brake.to Oddly,
his death.
thisSeveral climbers
two-hands-above-
witnessed his fall.
the-ATC technique is sometimes
Earlier
taught in in climbing
the day, gyms.
ParkerBecause
and his
girlfriend, Jainee Dial, climbed
many beginning gym climbers are the on
0 2307
Southeast Buttress of Cathedral
a top-rope, they don’t generate the Peak
Fall on Rock, Belayer Error Kentucky, Muir
2015 Valley,
(II Tectonic
5.6) as a Wall
roped team. When they
force in a fall that a lead climber does,
and the belayer can usually arrest the
fall even without forming the bight with
the brake hand. When the belayer
needs to catch a much bigger load
with a falling leader, the sloppy
technique can fail. (Source: Rick
0 2308 Weber, Muir Valley.)
Fall On Rock, Lowering Error – Rope Too2015
Short Kentucky,
On September Red River
26 I Gorge, Motherlode
fell about 40 feet
while lowering from a session on the
Madness (5.13c), which I was hoping
might be my 1,500th route in the Red
River Gorge. Once I realized I was
falling, I cursed, straightened up, got
my feet underneath me, and had just
enough time to think “feet shoulder
0 2309
width apart, knees bent, back straight,
Fall On Rock, Protection Pulled Out – Inexperience
2015 OnCalifornia,
the last dayEl Capitan, Northyear
of my junior America
of Wall
high school, I packed up the car and
headed for Yosemite Valley. I hoped
to make it up El Capitan as many
times as possible over the summer.
The previous summer I had learned
how to aid and big-wall climb and
made four ascents of El Cap. This
0 2310
summer would not go as planned.
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out—No 2015
Helmet On
Connecticut,
April 30, Ragged Mountain
I was leading Diagonal
(5.6) on the Small Cliff at Ragged
Mountain. I fell from a point about
halfway up, at a point where the
diagonaling crack offsets to the right. I
had put in a cam about 10 feet up and
then a nut in a not-great placement. I
was looking for another placement,
0 2311
holding a sloping hold, and my foot
Fall on Snow Alaska, Denali, West Buttress
2015 On June 29, Alpine Ascents
International (ALP)-9 was descending
the fixed ropes after a stay at the
17,200-foot camp. Toward the bottom
of the fixed lines, at about 15,400 feet,
one of the clients took a short twisting
fall and heard a “click” in her right
knee. She immediately felt a sharp
0 2312
pain. She was able to continue her
 Fall on Snow – Avalanche, Climbing Unroped
2015 Alaska,
WhileDenali,
waitingWest Buttress
for stable weather to
attempt a difficult route on Denali’s
south side, members of the New
Zealand Alpine Team and friends
climbed the West Buttress Direct,
above Windy Corner, on June 13. The
climbers had split into separate rope
teams. Near the top of the ridge, the
0 2313
slope angle decreased and the upper
Fall on Snow – Cornice Collapse, Climbing
2015Unroped,
On MayPoor13,
Position Oregon,
Robert CormierMt. (57)
Hood, South Side
attempted to summit Mt. Hood via the
popular South Side Route with two
companions. One team member
suffered a leg cramp, and the party
separated as Cormier summited
ahead of his companions. He
traversed too far north from the
0 2314
summit rim and caused a cornice
Fall on Snow – Exceeding Abilities, Weather
2015 Oregon, Middle Sister
On November 12, Ryan Burton (25)
and Benjamin Newkirk (39) left the
trailhead at Pole Creek and hiked six
miles to Camp Lake, where they set
camp and rested before departing
around 6:30 p.m. Weather reports at
the time and for the three days
following the incident included
0 2315
warnings for high wind and large
Fall on Snow – Ski Mountaineering Oregon,
2015 Mt. Jefferson
Around 4:30 or 5 p.m. on July 21,
after skiing down the Whitewater
Glacier high on Mt. Jefferson, Miko
Smilenski lost an edge during a steep
turn and fell about 100 feet near
treeline. The 56-year-old experienced
skier hit many exposed rocks during
the slide and suffered a broken femur
0 2316
and head trauma. After activating his
Fall on Snow — Climbing Unroped, Party2015
Separated Alaska,
Sylvia Denali,
Montag, 39,Denali
fell toPass
her death on
May 5 while attempting to descend
from Denali Pass (18,200 feet) to the
17,200-foot high camp on the West
Buttress Route. Montag had
separated from her partner, Meik
Fuchs, as they descended from
Denali Pass, where they had camped
0 2317
for two nights in strong winds after an
Fall on Snow — Inadequate Protection, 2015
Fatigue Alaska,
On May Denali, Denali
10 four Pass of the
members
Romanian team “Explorer Denali
2014” flew to the Kahiltna base camp
to begin their climb. Over the following
13 days they progressed at an
average rate up the West Buttress
Route.
On May 23 three of the team
0 2318
members made their summit attempt,
departing high camp at 9:45 a.m. High
winds made for a challenging and
 Fall on Snow, Altitude Sickness – Party2015
SeparatedOnAlaska,
June Denali, Denali
15, three Pass climbers
European
from separate teams suffered varying
degrees of frostbite, exposure, and
minor injuries from falls while
descending the upper mountain in
poor weather.
At 12:30 a.m., climber Steve House
contacted the NPS patrol led by
0 2319
ranger Brandon Latham at high camp
Fall on Snow/Ice – Failure to Self-Arrest
2015
Oregon,On
Mt.May
and Hood, South
told 24, Side
James
rangers he Adams
had been (59)
helping
slipped on ice while descending the
South Side Route. He was unable to
self-arrest and slid several hundred
feet into a fumarole (an opening in a
glacier caused by ice melting due to
volcanic fumes). Others witnessed his
fall and communicated with a nearby
0 2320
Portland Mountain Rescue team. After
Frostbite, Altitude Illness Alaska, Denali,
2015West Buttress
On May 12 eight members of the
military climbing team “U.S.M.C. Mtn.
Warfare Training Center” flew to the
Kahiltna Glacier to begin their climb.
Over the following 12 days they
progressed at an average rate up the
West Buttress Route. On May 23, four
of the team members departed for a
0 2321
summit attempt, reaching the top
Inadequate Belay Colorado, Boulder 2015 After 29 years of accident-free
climbing, I thought I was a pretty
competent belayer. Turns out I still
had plenty to learn. Luckily I’m still
accident-free, but things easily could
have ended very badly.
This happened when I was lowering
my friend Kevin off a lead climb at a
0 2322
local climbing gym. It’s a scenario
Lightning — Exposure, Weather, Poor Position
2015 California,
On warnBear
theyAugust Creek
9 my
you Spire,
partner
about North
Matt
in the andArete
I
pamphlets
(both 26) attempted to climb Bear
Creek Spire via the North Arête (6
pitches, 5.8) in a single-day, car-to-
car push from the trailhead at
Mosquito Flats. The weather report
called for a 20 percent chance of
scattered thunderstorms after 11 a.m.
0 2323
We started up the route at around 9
Lowering Error – Poor Position California,
2015Mickey's
It
a.m. Beach,
was The
Atathis Eggwe
beautiful
time July
hadSaturday
bluebirdfor
top-roping climbs at Mickey’s
skies and good temps. We made Beachit to
with my buddy Tracy. While belaying
within about 200 feet of the summit by
him on the Egg formation, I got a
great view of him climbing above the
ocean and decided to take a photo.
Still belaying, I slowly backed up a
five-foot-tall ramp of rock, until I was
0 2324
approximately 15 feet from the wall, to
 Off Route – Party Separated, Weather, Inexperience
2015 OnCalifornia,
May 17 a Mt. Shasta,
female Red Banks
climber (mid- / Avalanche Gulch
40s) summited Shasta by the Red
Banks/Avalanche Gulch route at
roughly 12:15 p.m. She rested on the
summit and descended as clouds
began to move in, following tracks
down the Clear Creek route, where
she made contact with another
0 2325
climbing party. This party informed
Off Route – Weather, Darkness, Party Separated
2015 California,
On July 17, Mt.brothers
Conness,Bruce
NorthPorter
Ridge (58)
and Bob Porter (61) attempted the
north ridge (III 5.7) of Mt. Conness
(12,600’). After a thunderstorm forced
a retreat, they chose a longer, more
difficult route back to the trailhead,
resulting in a bivy at 11,000 feet
without gear. The next morning they
0 2326
separated, attempting different routes
Rappel Error – Possible Equipment Failure
2015Utah, On
Arches
September
National 23Park,
a climber
Towerfell
ofbetween
Babel
75 and 100 feet while rappelling Zenyatta
Entrada (5.4 C3) on the Tower of Babel.
NPS rangers responded to the scene and
found the climber lying on the ground at
the base of the route. His partner was still
descending from the second pitch. The
victim was evacuated by wheeled litter to
0 2327
the road and taken by helicopter to a
Rappel Error – Uneven Ropes, Distraction2015
Colorado,
On June
Garden23,of
two
thefriends
Gods and I (Wesley
Hartman, 17) were climbing on the east
side of Kindergarten Rock. I climbed
what I believe was a 5.10 with a safe
belay from my partner Trey. When I got
to the top I was planning to clean the
route and rappel down. We could see
weather coming, so I was trying to be
0 2328
quick but not recklessly fast. On the
Rockfall – Late Start, Darkness Utah, Mt.
2015
Olympus,OnWest
July 5,
Slabs
Mary Ann Overfelt and I set
out to tackle the West Slabs of Mt.
Olympus (1,600’, 5.5), east of Salt Lake
City. We started hiking a bit later than we
would have liked, but still reached the
start of the route about 11 a.m. A few
other parties were in the vicinity, but we
felt we could move at a good pace and
0 2330
that daylight would not be an issue. The
Rockfall – Poor Position California, Mt.2015
Shasta, Wintun
On JulyRoute
29 a male climber (58) was
descending the Wintun Route when he
was hit by rockfall at 11,700 feet. The
climber fractured his femur and arm.
There was also bruising to his hip. Nick
Meyers was notified at about 4:30 p.m. A
California Highway Patrol helicopter was
requested for evacuation, which was
0 2331
accomplished by hoisting the injured
 Rockfall – Poor Position Canada, Yamnuska,
2015 Missionary's
On June 6Crack
a climber was struck in the
lower right leg by a large falling block
while climbing Missionary’s Crack (5.10)
. This was roughly in the area where a
major rockfall occurred in August 2009.
Two Kananaskis Public Safety personnel
were heli-slung to a ledge below the
climbers, where they built an anchor.
0 2332
Rescue personnel climbed up to the
Rockfall – Poor Position, Inexperience California,
2015 OnMt.the
Shasta,
morning
Avalanche
of January
Gulch
1, three
climbers (one male and two female, all in
their early 20s) were ascending
Avalanche Gulch. At 11,500 feet they
suffered varying injuries from a natural
rockfall event. They called 911 around
9:30 a.m. With head and leg injuries, the
climbers requested an urgent rescue.
0 2333
Climbing ranger Nick Meyers called the
Slip On Rock, Rappel Error – Alcohol, Poor
2015 Position
The San
following
Bernadino
accident
Mountains,
occurredLucerne
on April
Valley
9 while climbing at an undeveloped area
on Grapevine Road in the Lucerne
Valley. Person 1 (37 years old, 25 years
of climbing experience) had intentions of
establishing a new route on one of the
Joshua Tree–like cliffs; he had also been
drinking heavily throughout the day.
0 2334
After reaching the top of the cliff, Person
Slip On Snow – Failure to Self-Arrest, No
2015
HelmetOn California,
May 25 aMt. female
Shasta,
climber
Avalanche
(58) was
Gulch / Heart Route
ascending Avalanche Gulch via the Heart
at roughly 12,000 feet, just below the Red
Banks, when she fell and lost control of
her ice axe. She was then unable to arrest
her fall and was stopped/tackled by an
independent climber after sliding to
11,400 feet, at climber’s right of the
0 2335
Heart, near a well-trodden boot pack. A
Stranded – Inexperience, Darkness, Weather
2015 California,
On March Half 8,
Dome,
RyanSnake
Ellis Dike
(23), Kristen
Elford (27), Charles Celerier (22), and
Ken Langley (26) set out to climb the
Snake Dike route (8 pitches, 5.7) on
Half Dome, intending to take the cable
descent from the summit. The
climbers were new to multi-pitch
climbing, and this was Kristen’s first
1 2336
climb outdoors. The team researched
Animal Bite West Virginia, Bozoo, Iceberg
2015Area On August 30, Jay Sullivan (56) was
bitten by a bat (species unknown)
while climbing a short trad route called
Playing Hookie (5.7). According to the
climber, he was unsure whether he
had been bitten or if he had jammed
his finger awkwardly into the rock,
though he heard “clicking” sounds
0 2337
coming from the crack and noticed a
 Avalanche – Poor Position Colorado, Rocky
2015 Mountain
Loch National
Vale is aPark, Lochnorth-facing
popular Vale ice
climbing area at about 10,000 feet in
elevation. At approximately 3 p.m. on
December 21, two climbers began to
free solo Mo' Flo' Than Go, a short
WI2/3 route. They told a group of four
climbers who were gathered under
the ice curtain on the far left side of
0 2338
the route that they planned to
Crevasse Fall – Climbing Unroped, Inadequate
2015 Equipment
At aroundWashington, Mt. Rainier, 5,
2 p.m. on September Muir
a Snowfield
report came in from an RMI guide that
he had encountered an independent
climber (age approximately 35) who
had fallen into a crevasse on the Muir
Snowfield at around 9,900 feet. The
climber was several feet below the
surface and was stemming the two
0 2339
walls of the crevasse, with about 30
Crevasse Fall – Poor Position Washington,
2015North On
Cascades National
July 29, Park, East
my husband, McMillan
Arthur GreefSpire
(52), and I (Colleen Hinton, 52) left
camp at 6:30 a.m. with the goal of
climbing the west ridge of East
McMillan Spire (Class 3/4), followed
by the southeast face of West
McMillan Spire (Grade II 5.7). The
weather was very warm, continuing a
0 2340
pattern of warmer-than-usual
Fall From Tyrolean – Faulty Use Of Equipment
2015 Colorado,
On April Clear Creek
9, I had Canyon,
been Eastbolts
clipping Colfax
at
East Colfax with Mike Endicott, Leo
Paik, Dave Rogers, and Doug
Redosh. Mike and I decided to cross
Clear Creek to climb at some other
crags. The creek was too deep to
wade, so an established double-rope
Tyrolean traverse provided the
0 2341
obvious choice. The proximal ends of
Fall on Ice - Inadequate Protection Canada,
2015Alberta,
OnGhost River Valley,
the morning Malignant
of March 15, twoMushroom
very
experienced climbers set out to
attempt a series of climbs in the
Ghost River Valley. After starting up
the first pitch of Malignant Mushroom
(WI5), the lead climber fell while
placing his first ice screw. He fell
about six meters to the base of the
0 2342
climb and slid a short distance,
Fall on Ice - Inadequate Protection, Screw
2015
Pulled On
Out February
Canada, Alberta, BanffofNational
27 a party two wasPark, Louise Falls
climbing the classic multi-pitch ice
route up Louise Falls (WI4/5). They
had climbed the crux pillar and were
on the easier last pitch. The less
experienced climber attempted to lead
this pitch but found it was too much
for him, so he lowered back to the
0 2343
belay off a single ice screw. The more
 Fall on Ice – Anchor Failure Washington,
2015
Snoqualmie Pass, Kiddie
On December 3 ICliff
left the Alpental
parking lot around 10 a.m. with a
good friend to find some ice to top-
rope. This trip was training for bigger
alpine ice objectives to follow in 2015.
After about two hours of hiking and
hunting, we found a gully with a
frozen creek and decided to rope up
0 2344
and ascend it. We simul-climbed
Fall on Ice – Ascending Error, Darkness2015
Vermont,On Mt.December
Pisgah (Lake
27,Willoughby),
2013, at theThe baseTablets
of the center Tablet at Lake
Willoughby, my friend John (37) and I
(32) congratulated ourselves after a
60-meter rappel to the ground, shortly
after sunset. We had just finished our
third two-pitch ice route that day—one
route on each of the Tablets. It was
0 2345
our seventh day of ice climbing for the
Fall on Ice – Possible Avalanche Washington,
2015 Mt.On Rainier,
Monday, Liberty
MayRidge
26, an Alpine
Ascents International guided party
started an ascent of Mt. Rainier via
Liberty Ridge. Led by guides Matt
Hegeman and Eitan Green, John
Mullaly (Seattle), Uday Marty
(Singapore), Mark Mahaney (St.
Paul), and Erik Kolb (New York)
0 2346
rounded out the team. They planned
Fall on Rock Colorado, Eleven Mile Canyon,
2015 PineI Cone Domesolid. The route
felt super
(appropriately named Harder Than It
Looks) was comfortably within my
difficulty range and well-suited to my
strengths: delicate and slabby at the
bottom, with a fun-looking undercling
near the top.
I had just completed a day of self-
0 2347
rescue instruction with a guide
Fall On Rock Idaho, City Of Rocks, Elephant
2015 Rock On May Having
service. 24, a climber
finished in a
hisbitearly
ahead20sof
was leading Rye Crisp (5.8)
schedule, our guide had asked if we’d while his
sister belayed him. According to his
sister, he was an experienced climber
who leads up to 5.11. Because the
climb was relatively easy for him, he
had not placed any protection, though
there was ample opportunity to do so.
0 2348
Approximately 40 feet up, his foot
Fall On Rock - Climbing Unroped Montana,
2015 Bitterroot
RyanNational Forest,
Silsby, 25, diedBlodgett
in a fallCanyon
in
Blodgett Canyon in mid-August. Silsby
had parked at the Blodgett Canyon
Trailhead, planning a two-day trip. His
vehicle was found on September 2
with his camping gear still inside it,
and his body was discovered on
September 7 at the base of a rock
0 2349
formation on the south side of the
 clipped into the rope. From here the
rope was clipped into the previously
described high gear. Above the
highest piece the route steepens and
pulls through a bulge. We found fresh
Fall on Rock - Failure to Test Hold North
2015 chalk
Carolina, here,
Linville
During theGorge,but no
early sign ofMountain
Shortoff
afternoon broken
of Monday, rock.
March 10, Jackson Depew (23) and
After
Zach our site visit,
Patterson (24)ourweregroup felt very
climbing
confident
Maginot Line (5.7) on Shortoff a
the accident was not
product
Mountain, of atgearthefailure
south but endrather
of thethe
result of an inverted
Linville Gorge Wilderness Area. fall that caused
the Soloist
Jackson was self-belay
leading the device thirdtopitch
fail to
engage.
when he Itfound is highly likely
himself that while
slightly off-
0 2350 pulling
route. Athe holdbulgebroke,Mark fell intohim
causing anto
Fall on Rock - Failure to Test Hold North
2015
Carolina,
On Pisgah
March
inverted National MTForest,
21, orientation.
body (30) and Victory
Ither Wall
partner
is also
(age 35) started an unnamed
possible that falling with the rope 5.7/5.8
climb onhis
behind thelegVictory
could Wall.
have MT began
inverted
the second
Mark. Eitherpitch way,by moving
falling right
upside-down
approximately
can cause the 15 feet.device
Soloist After placing
to fail toa
blue Metolius
engage, TCU, she
a possibility thecontinued
former up,
slotted a nut between
manufacturer warned users a blockabout. and the
wall, pulled up, and in the process
0 2351
dislodged report
Rescuers the entire thatblock,
Mark’scausingairway
Fall on Rock - Inadequate Protection, Cam
2015PulledOn
OutAugust
New York, Shawangunks,
9 a climber The Trapps, Cascading C
was starting
was compromised by a chest sling he
either the second pitch of Cascading
was wearing and that this was likely
Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) or CCK
the proximal cause of death. Pictures
Direct—the pitches start in the same
that Mark took during a prior ascent
area of Grand Traverse Ledge. He
show a red sling configured such that
reportedly placed one cam in a
the tie-in point was in the center of his
horizontal crack, continued climbing,
chest (secured with locking
decided to retreat, and then fell or
0 2352 carabiner). This effectively creates an
“took” on the cam. The piece popped
Fall On Rock - No Protection New York, 2015 X across
Shawangunks,
Heidi Thethe
Duartes front
Trapps,
Wahl, of 28,
the died
Yellow chest,
Wall which
could
November 15 after falling of
ride up in the event to athe fall and
impact the victim’s airway.
ground from about 20 feet up Yellow
Wall (5.11) at the Trapps. The climber
In
hadsummary,
not placed siteanyevidence
protection, and whichthe
knot in the rope suggest
is the norm for the relatively easy but that Mark
took
poorly a protected
leader fall start whileofclimbing
this route.
through
She appears the steepest
to have part broken of the
herroute.
neck
0 2353 This
in thefall was not and
groundfall arrested
died by the scene
at the
Fall On Rock - Rope Soloing New Hampshire,
2015 Cathedral
At
Soloist, Ledge,
approximately
probably Barber
11:40Wall
because a.m. of on
hisJuly
body
12, I greeted a solo climber
orientation. Once the fall was stopped as I was
rappelling
by the backup Chicken knot,Delight
Mark’son the rig
chest
Barber
rode up on his torso to the point with a
Wall at Cathedral Ledge
client. Iitobserved
where impactedthat the soloPerhaps
his airway. climber
had to
due justhis rappelled
injuries, Double
Mark was Vee/Jolt
unableon
a static
to line, andand
right himself appeared
take weight to beoff the
preparing
chest sling.to(Source:
rope-soloEddie backMedina,
up, using
0 2354
an ascender
Carolina riggedCoalition.)
Climbers to a chest
Fall on Rock - Rope Soloing North Carolina,
2015 Crowder Mountain State Park, Middle Finger Wall
[Editor’s note: The Soloist belay
device is no longer manufactured.
Climbers who still use this device
must be aware that it is only designed
to catch a leader falling in a relatively
upright position. Consider appropriate
0 2355 backups.]
 time. However, sometime during his
fall he either caught his crampon on a
rock or his crampon impacted the
wall, causing his leg to snap. The
victim called down to his partner and
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection, No
2015
Helmet OnWest Virginia, New
November Riverclimber
9 a male Gorge National
(28) River, Junkya
told him that he had broken his leg
was leading New River Gunks, a
and could not climb down. The
popular 5.7 traditional route, when he
partner immediately made a 911 cell
fell approximately 12 to 15 feet. The
phone call for help and initiated a
climber, whose only protection was a
SPOT beacon alert before he began
single fixed cam (Wild Country Zero
to assist the victim down to the belay
5), suffered a groundfall and landed in
ledge.
a seated position, also hitting his
0 2356
head. The fixed gear, which local
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Belay, Inexperience Both
2015 Virginia, men
On Sunday, had
Richmond, been climbing
Manchester
November three to
30, I Wall
(Jake
four
Jones) years and considered
watched as a climber themselves
fell
to be competent on 5.8–5.9
approximately 40 feet to the ground traditional
routes, with some
while leading. At themixed
timeclimbing
I had just
experience. They
been lowered to the ground were properly
after
equipped
climbing atodifferent
deal with a variety
route. of
I happened
conditions (snow, ice, and
to look to my right and saw a male rock).
Unfortunately,
climber falling, on hit this particular
the ground day,
feet-first,
0 2358 the rock on the route was covered
and end up in a sitting position.
Fall On Rock – Inexperience, Faulty Use2015
Of Equipment
I heard
with a Colorado,
a scream
light dustingStaunton
and sawState
myPark,
ropeTan Corridor
of unconsolidated
falling
snow and no ice—not conditions23,
below me. It was August for
the
which daythey
I almost
were died.
suited. After puttinghad
Rangers in
six hours of rock climbing,
conveyed the conditions on the route we were
ready
to the to pack up
climbers theanddayleave
beforethethey
Tan
Corridor. I (Asha Nanda,
left. They were also informed that, 21) started
up the climb
should they needcalleda Reef
rescue,OnitItcould
to be
break down
greatly delayed the due
anchor of our
to lack last
of staffing
0 2359
climb.
and It was a 5.10-
potentially that Douglas
unfavorable weather. It
Fall on Rock – Inexperience, Weather, Protection
2015 Pulled Out Wyoming, Grand Teton, Lower Exum Ridge
was by sheer coincidence that two
seasonal climbing rangers, who had
recently concluded their seasons,
happened to be in the area of Lupine
Meadows when the initial call came in
and thus were available to help with
the rescue. (Source: Chris Harder,
0 2360 Incident Commander.)
Fall On Rock – Miscommunication Colorado,
2015 Eldorado
In the Canyon State Park,
late afternoon West Ridge
on October 19, a
party of four was climbing on the West
Ridge in two parties of two. According
to one of these climbers, Mark Hanna,
a male climber, 42, and his partner
were top-roping the first pitch of Iron
Horse (5.11) as their last climb of the
day. The climber topped out at the
0 2361
anchors, about 80 feet above the
Fall on Rock – No Anchor, Poor Position2015
North Carolina,
Late in the Stone MountainonState
afternoon Park
Saturday,
June 7, Lisa Bacon (31) and Brian
Sakofsky (35) fell approximately 60
feet from the Tree Ledge while
rappelling the south face of Stone
Mountain. Both sustained life-
threatening injuries. Bacon was taken
by an Air Care helicopter to Wake
0 2362
Forest Baptist Hospital, in Winston-
 Fall On Rock – Off-Route, Inadequate Protection
2015 IColorado, Boulder,
was injured Thirdclimbing
in a rock Flatiron
accident on December 13. We were
climbing Friday's Folly (5.7) on the
back of the Third Flatiron. I’ve climbed
the Third Flatiron probably over 100
times, but almost always soloing the
East Face and either reversing the
route or downclimbing the Southwest
0 2363
Chimney. I had never done Friday's or
Fall On Rock – Lead Rope Unclipped From
2015Protection Colorado,
Shortly Eldorado
after noon Canyon State Park, Lower Pea
on Saturday,
August 9, Wayne Crill (46 at the time)
was attempting to lead a new route on
the left side of Lower Peanuts Wall.
He was belayed by Greg Miller. Crill
and Miller had previously worked the
route on top-rope, figuring out the
moves and assessing the number and
0 2365
quality of protection opportunities.
Fall On Rock, Nut Pulled Out – No Helmet
2015Connecticut,
On AprilRagged Mountain,
30 I was leadingSmall Cliff
Diagonal
(5.6) on the Small Cliff at Ragged
Mountain. I fell from about halfway up,
at a point where the diagonaling crack
offsets to the right. I had put in a cam
about 10 feet up and then a nut in a
not-great placement. I was looking for
another placement, holding a sloping
0 2366
hold, and my foot must have slipped. I
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error - Uneven Ropes,
2015 No Knots
DuringNorth
the Carolin,
afternoonPisgah National
of April 12, aForest, Little Lost C
male climber (21) fell 70 feet while
showing two friends how to rappel.
After threading his ropes through the
two-bolt anchor at the top of the cliff
he began to rappel. Seconds later, his
friends stated, the rappeller was out of
sight and the rope pulled all the way
0 2367
through the anchor. He was found at
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error - Uneven Ropes,
2015 No Knots
DuringNorth
the Carolina, Crowders
early afternoon onMountain State Park, Pra
September 1, Ben Lee (28) fell while
rappelling Burn Crack (5.10c) on the
Practice Wall. He was on rappel with
an ATC when one of the ropes on the
double-rope rappel pulled through the
device, causing him to fall 15 to 20
feet to the ground. He was placed in a
0 2368
Stokes basket and carried to a waiting
Fall on Snow - Poor Position Canada, Alberta,
2015 Banff National
A party Park,
of two Moraine
decided to Lake,
climb 3/3.5
the Couloir
3/3.5 Couloir (so named because it
lies between peaks 3 and 3.5 in the
Valley of the 10 Peaks), located at the
far end of Moraine Lake. It was July
15 and had been a fairly warm and
dry summer in the Rockies, so the
couloir was only partly covered in ice
0 2369
and snow. They left the parking lot at
 Illness Canada, Yokon, Kluane National2015
Park andOn
Reserve,
June Mt.
6, atLogan, Eastthe
11 a.m., Ridge
Parks
Canada Visitor Safety team in Haines
Junction received a call regarding a
male climber in medical distress and
requesting evacuation. The initial call
came in via the Delorme InReach
coordination center. Fortunately, the
party of four climbers also had a
0 2371
satellite phone, and reliable
Rappel Error - Off Route, Inadequate Equipment
2015 Canada,
On August British
30, Columbia, Penticton,
a 31-year-old Skaha Bluffs
man was
rappelling his third climb of the day
(Fortuitous, 5.10d, on the Fortress)
when he fell about 20 meters to the
ground and sustained massive
trauma. Three local climbers, two of
whom were nurses, immediately
attended to the fallen climber. One of
0 2372
the responding climbers observed,
Rappel Error – No Knots in Rope Ends 2015
Washington,
On Mt. Garfield, 7,
September Infinite Bliss Ross
at 5 p.m.,
Halverson and a partner completed
Infinite Bliss, a 23-pitch 5.10c that
climbs the south flank of Mt. Garfield,
near North Bend. They texted a friend
from the summit, took a few photos,
then immediately headed back down
the route via double-rope rappels. The
0 2373
pair knew they had hours of rappelling
Rappel Failure – Inadequate Anchor, Inadequate
2015 Belay Arizona,
Just after Camelback
sunrise Mountain
on August 8,
Phoenix firefighter Gary Johnstone,
50, and three teenage boys set up a
short rappel (about 40 feet) at an
outcrop known as the "Sugar Cube"
that is frequently used for rappelling
practice. Their anchor was a single,
large eyebolt cemented into the rock.
0 2374
One boy, Johnstone’s son,
Rappel Failure – No Knot on Rope End,2015
Fatigue Washington,
On September North Cascades,
6 my Le Petit
husband, EricCheval, Spontaneit
Peter Anderson (28), and I (27)
summited Le Petit Cheval via the
Spontaneity Arête (5.7) for our first
anniversary. It was a gloriously clear
day and we took our time on the
route, admiring the views and
relishing the wilderness. We
0 2375
descended the climbing route via a
Rockfall Arizona, Queen Creek Canyon,2015
Upper Devils Canyon 23, John Scott, 66, died
On February
when he was struck in the head by a
falling rock while belaying. Scott had
just lowered his partner from a sport
climb called Projectiles (5.7) at the
Lost Wall when a large rock
(described as two feet in diameter) fell
approximately 55 feet from the top of
0 2376
the cliff and hit Scott at the base of
 Rockfall Canada, British Columbia, Yoho
2015
National
OnPark,
AugustWiwaxy Peak
14 two climbers set out
from Lake O’Hara to climb the Grassi
Ridge on Wiwaxy Peak. Late in the
afternoon, light rain began falling,
which made the quartzite very
slippery and slowed their progress. As
they were approaching the final pitch,
the leader passed a small pillar that
1 2377
collapsed, sending several large
Rockfall Washington, Mazama, Goat Wall
2015 My wife and I, both 28, were climbing
a popular multi-pitch sport route,
Prime Rib of Goat (5.9), in the
summer of 2012. A group had caught
up to us, and we allowed them to
pass at one of the generous ledges
en route. Since this was a long climb,
it was important to keep moving, and I
0 2378
started leading the next pitch about 10
Rockfall - Off-Route, No Helmet Canada,
2015
Alberta,OnMt.August
Cory 25, my climbing partner
and I had decided to try a seemingly
simple mountain named Mt. Cory.
[The south ridge of Cory is rated an
easy/moderate scramble in Alan
Kane’s Scrambles in the Canadian
Rockies guidebook.] After much
evaluation we could not figure out the
0 2379
right way to head up. Due to being off-
Rockfall – Failure to Test Holds Wyoming,
2015GrandOn Teton,
JulyUpper Exum Ridge
27, Joshua Smith and I (both
32) attempted the Grand Teton via the
Upper Exum Ridge. While climbing
the route, I sustained severe injuries
to my left foot when I pulled a loose
boulder down. The incident occurred
in a section of the climb known as the
Wind Tunnel. While surmounting a
0 2380
short wall and pulling onto a ledge, I
Slip on Snow – Inadequate Equipment, 2015
ExceedingLate
Abilities
in theWyoming, Disappointment
day on June 29, a femalePeak, Lake Ledges
climber (27) fell and sustained serious
injuries while descending the Lake
Ledges route on Disappointment
Peak. [Editor’s note: Lake Ledges is a
4th class route in midsummer and a
moderate snow climb through spring
and early summer.] Her partner
0 2381
reported that after slipping on a snow
Ice Tool Up Against The Head New York,
2015
Adirondacks
Having rock climbed for about six
years, I was eager to try something
new, namely ice climbing. A few
friends had rented out a house for the
weekend in the Adirondacks, so I
decided to join them. Many of them
were already experienced in ice
climbing, so I decided to take an intro
0 2382
class from a guide at Rock and River.
 Rappel Failure – Miscommunication, No2015
Stopper On
Knots Canada,
April Alberta,
28, two Bowwere
climbers Valley Wildland Provincial
descending a single-pitch route known
as Aces High on Casino Wall. One of
the climbers rappelled off the ends of
the rope. He fell about five meters and
landed on his back, sustaining a lower
back injury described as a fracture,
and had to be evacuated.
0 2384
ANALYSIS
Rockfall Canada, Alberta, Canmore, Grassi
2015LakesTwo people were injured on August 1
by rockfall at the crag known as the
Golf Course. The two had just arrived
at the crag and were gearing up, and
had not yet put on their helmets.
Shoebox-size rocks came down,
striking the two individuals. One was
briefly knocked unconscious and had
0 2385
a severe head laceration. The second
Rockfall – Misguided Chivalry Wyoming,
2015
Grand In
Teton, Owen-Spalding
the late 1990s, I wasRoute
guiding on the
Grand Teton, and my client couldn't
find a helmet she liked up at the
Lower Saddle, so I lent her mine. I
assumed we would be climbing Exum
Ridge and I would be in the lead, with
no one else in front. However, the
weather changed our plans and we
0 2386
ended up doing the Owen-Spalding. A
Anchor Failure – Off-Route Wind River2016
Range, Pingora Peak 28, Sublette County
On August
sheriff’s dispatch center received a
satellite telephone call from a
backpacker in the Cirque of the
Towers. The caller had witnessed two
climbers fall from the northeast face of
Pingora (IV 5.8+).
0 2387
Tip Top Search and Rescue
Avalanche – Stranded Alaska, Denali National
2016 Park,
On Ruth
May Gorge,
responded Mt. Dickey
11,directly
at approximately
to the scene 5:30
p.m., rangers received a call
withSublette County’s contract from K2
Aviation saying that one of their
helicopter. Pilot Mario Nickl and pilots
had spotted an SOS stamped in the
snow above 747 Pass (between Mt.
Dickey and Mt. Bradley). Two
climbers were present at the SOS and
waving their arms for help. The pilot
0 2388
also reported ski tracks coming out of
Avalanche — Poor Position California, 2016
Mt. Shasta,
OnHotlum-Wintun
June 13, nearRoute
the Hotlum-Wintun
Route on the east side of Shasta, a
male climber triggered a loose-wet
avalanche at about 13,000 feet while
glissading. The climber involved had
separated from his group at around 3
p.m. and met a group of skiers who
were descending from the summit.
0 2389
The skiers recommended the climber
 climber, as nobody else was on the
mountain. Carr followed the climber’s
boot pack down into Cascade Gulch
and located the individual. He called
Meyers via cell phone, and Meyers
Cornice Fall – Skiing Unroped Canada, 2016 and
BanffDove
Alberta, Banff were
National
Dispatch easily
Park, Wapta
received able to locate
aIcefields
personal
Carr’s tracks and follow
locater beacon (PLB) activation them to signal
his
location. All three rescuers
near Balfour High Col on the Wapta were able
to assist the climber in walking
Icefields at 1 p.m. on March 29. The down
Cascade
Balfour High GulchColtoisthe theMcBride
crux of the
Springs road. The
popular Wapta individual
Icefields had no
ski traverse
injuries
and is aand did notplace
notorious possess a valid
in which to
summit
get caught pass or wilderness
during poor weather. permit.
0 2390 ANALYSIS
Common hazards at the Balfour High
Crevasse Fall – Climbing Unroped Alaska,
2016Hayes"Sarah
Range,
The Trident
Hart
climber Glacier
walks
spent across
over 24thehoursTrident
out
Glacier shortly before
in a winter storm, with only the clothes
thehis
on author's
back, crevasse
in unfamiliar fall.terrain,
Base camp with
is visible
the hazardson the right."
of avalanches, severe
Sarahand
wind, Hart, 35, Respectfully,
cold. and I, 32, intended both to
climb theand
Meyers eastCarrridgetoldofhim
13,832-foot
he “usedMt.
Hayes,
one thenine
of his tallestlivespeak
thatinday.”
the eastern
When
Alaska
the Range,
climber from the
appeared Trident
unmoved,
0 2391
Glacier. The
describing hisTrident
experience was flatas and
“fun and
Failure to Follow Route – Inadequate Equipment,
2016 Inexperience California, Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch
interesting,” Meyers sternly
recommended that the climber think
about all the lives that were
endangered to rescue him and that he
should prepare properly for such an
adventure next time. (Source: Mt.
Shasta Wilderness Climbing Ranger
0 2392 Report 2015.)
Fall During Approach – Off-Route Colorado,
2016 Boulder, Skunk Canyon
On November 8, my wife Becky (age
45) and I (Dave, age 35) were
approaching the Angels Way route on
Ridge Three in the Flatirons near
Boulder. The weather forecast for the
day was optimal, with highs in the
lower 60s and no precipitation
expected.
0 2393
The description of the approach to
Fall on Rock Arizona, Flagstaff, The Overlook
2016 On
RidgeOctober
Three25 a climber
through Skunk (female,
Canyon 28)is
took a short leader fall near
minimal in online resources and in the the top of
Mint Jam (5.8) at the
guidebook we owned. As we made Overlook. All the
gear held, and the belayer acted
correctly. As is the case for many
climbs at the Overlook, the leader was
in a dangerous place to fall due to
ledges below her. The climber began
0 2394
the awkward roof exit of the pitch, but
Fall on Rock (Scrambling) Canada, British
2016Columbia, Yoho
At 8:30 National
a.m. on August Park, 23,
Mt. a Daly
group of
three scramblers left the parking lot
near the Great Divide Lodge in Yoho
National Park to scramble up the
southwest slopes of Mt. Daly. After
hiking up the trail to Sherbrooke Lake,
they followed the route to the east
side of the col between Mt. Niles and
0 2395
Mt. Daly. Following the normal
 Fall On Rock and Snow ­– Inexperience,2016
Off RouteOnCalifornia,
March 21 Sawtooth Range,
the Mineral Cleaver Peak
County
Sheriff (Nevada) received a 911 call
from Brandon Reiff (33) of Reno, who
reported that he had broken his leg in
a fall near Matterhorn Peak (12,280’).
His 911 call was transferred to the
Mono County Sheriff, but the call was
dropped due to poor cell phone
0 2396
reception. Attempts to re-establish
Fall On Rock ­– Off-Route California, Yosemite
2016 Valley,
On May Manure Pile several
16, after Buttress days of rain
in Yosemite Valley, my partner and I
went to do a warm-up climb on
Manure Pile Buttress. As it was the
first day of good weather in a while,
the cliffs were busy, and all the routes
were occupied except for an obscure
moderate climb. We decided to be
0 2397
adventurous and climb it anyway as
Fall on Rock – Failure to Test Hold California,
2016 Sierra
On theNevada,
morningTemple Crag
of September 1, we
set off to climb the Surgicle, a
beautiful yet obscure feature on the
Temple Crag buttress. Peter (22) and
I (27) were to climb the East Face (II
5.7), while Gabe (27) and my twin
brother Brian (27) were going to climb
the North Rib (II 5.8). We would meet
0 2398
at the top and then rappel the east
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Belay Oregon,2016
Smith Rock State 6,
On June Park, Phoenix
I was Buttress
climbing a route
near Scary Llamas (a.k.a. Hissing
Llamas, a 5.8 sport climb) on the
Phoenix Buttress with my wife, Claire,
and our friend Mary. My wife and I
witnessed a climber fall on Scary
Llamas. The climber (age
approximately 18) fell much farther
0 2399
than I would have expected and made
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Belay, No Helmet
2016 Canada, British
On June 7,Columbia, Skaha,
a 38-year-old Foreplay
climber wasWall
leading a well-bolted 5.10a route on
Foreplay Wall. It was midafternoon on
a hot day, and the 30-meter cliff was
just coming into the sun. The belayer
(age about 42), with whom the leader
had climbed “many times before,” had
returned to climbing after a two-year
0 2400
absence due to injury. It was reported
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Belay, Poor Position,
2016 No
OnHelmet
FebruaryTexas,
14 Austin,
a climberBarton
(19)Creek
fell offGreenbelt, Gus F
the sport climb Birdland (5.10+),
hitting a wide ledge about 20 feet off
the ground. I (Adam Hosterman, 30)
was climbing nearby and saw the
accident. A friend of the climber
scrambled to the ledge from an
adjacent climb, and then I climbed up
0 2401
with some extra gear. While the friend
 Fall on Rock – Inadequate Belay, Rope 2016
Too ShortOnArizona, The Pit, Son Tower
a mid-September evening, Person
1, age 29, with many years of
climbing experience, led the limestone
sport climb Pleasant Dreams (5.9+)
on Son Tower at the Pit. When the
leader reached the top of the climb,
the belayer (Person 2, age 30, with
six months of experience) began to
0 2402
lower him to the ground. At the
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection Arizona,
2016 Mt.On Lemmon,
May 25,Windy Point
a 32-year-old male
climber leading Agatha Christie (5.8
trad) fell and pulled out one or more
pieces of protection. He fell about 45
feet to the ground, sustaining broken
bones and internal injuries. He was
short-hauled from the scene and
transferred to a Life Net air
0 2403
ambulance with non-life-threatening
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection California,
2016 Yosemite
On May 9, Valley, El Capitan, The
at approximately Nose
9:30 a.m.,
YOSAR dispatch received a call about
an injured climber who had taken a
20-foot leader fall on the first pitch of
the Nose. As YOSAR mobilized to El
Cap Meadow, a ranger at the base of
Pine Line (a 5.7 crack just below the
start of the Nose) indicated that the
0 2404
injured climber’s partners were
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection Canada,
2016 British
For Columbia, Squamish,
the first route of our The
first Apron
day of
climbing in Squamish, my climbing
partner and I started up Calculus
Direct, a 5.9 variation start to Calculus
Crack on the Apron. I led the first
pitch (5.9) with ease, built an anchor,
and brought up my second. Starting
the second pitch (5.8), I traversed a
0 2405
few feet along a sloping ledge, placed
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection Colorado,
2016 Black
I (32 Canyon of thewith
at the time, Gunnison National
20 years of Park, Astro Dog
experience) broke my ankle in a lead
fall in the Black Canyon of the
Gunnison as the moon rose on
September 25. I had been a bit
cavalier when Jack Cody (age 30) and
I rappelled off the south rim at sunrise
to climb Astro Dog (V 5.11d) in a day.
0 2406
Jack and I had climbed enough routes
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection, Inexperience
2016 California,27
September Yosemite
at 8:25Valley,
a.m., 911Leaning Tower, West Fa
received a call from a climber on the
west face of Leaning Tower, reporting
another climber’s fall. At the time, the
injured lead climber was hanging
unconscious 10 feet below Guano
Ledge, after taking a lead fall of
approximately 20 feet near the start of
0 2407
the fourth pitch.
 client’s rappel above that. Jason was
able to safely rappel with the
assistance of a fireman’s belay and
helpful hands on the ground. His client
arrived on the ground, similarly
Fall on Rock – Incomplete Tie-In Knot 2016 backed
Canada, Québec, up during
Racine,
On September 17,her
Lac tworappel,
femalewithout
Larouche
incident. Mohonk Preserve
climbers in their 20s were top-roping rangers a
completed a carry-out
5.10c route called Gueuse. One to a waiting
ambulance.
climber had just completed the route.
The sun was going to set in 20 to 30
ANALYSIS
minutes. Everyone else at the crag
had just left, so the two climbers were
Climbers
alone. face many environmental
0 2408 objective hazards, including wildlife.
The climber reported the incident as
Fall on Rock – Free-Solo Climbing Colorado,
2016 Boulder,
On
The Gregory
September
best
follows: “Iway Flatironette
to27,
completed twomyhikers
mitigate suchfound
figure risks is
8 knot,
the body
through of Angus
awareness—there Moloney (22)
are
but at the exit of the knot I didn’t leave near
few
the trail at
practical
enough the Ibase
methods
rope. left ofofphysical
only a1.5
rock to 2 inches
formation called
protection. In some the cases
Gregorythe
Flatironette may
community (a.k.a. the Fifth
become Pinnacle)
aware of
in Boulder’s
wildlife Openand
presence, Spacethatand
information
Mountain
may Parks. Moloney,
be accessible online ororiginally
from New York
elsewhere to thoseState,whoapparently
seek it out. had
0 2409
fallenincident
This the daywas before while
at the free-
start of what
Fall on Rock — Insect Stings New York, 2016
Shawangunks
became a particularly aggressive
wasp and bee season in the Gunks,
with at least one very popular climb
closed due to their presence.
Climbers with known severe allergies
should carry an EpiPen or similar
emergency treatment to the crag or
0 2410 even on routes. (Source: The Editors.)
Fall on Rock — Poor Position, No Helmet2016 Colorado,
On Summit
June 7 aCounty,
womanWhite (29) Cliff
suffered a
serious head injury while leading a 5.9
sport route. After clipping the first
quickdraw (previously placed by her
belayer, age 26), the climber slipped
before clipping the second draw,
causing her to fall. The belayer did not
remember seeing the rope behind the
0 2411
climber’s leg, but once tension came
Fall On Rock, Bolt Failure – Rope Soloing
2016California,
ScottOwens River Gorge
Sederstrom (44) fell to his death
on March 13 when a bolt failed on Life
in Electric Larvae Land (5.10b) at
Silent Pillar Wall in Owens River
Gorge.
When Sederstrom did not return that
evening, his fiancée drove to the
Lower Gorge parking lot, where she
0 2412
found his van and dog. Inyo Country
Fall on Snow or Ice California, Mt. Shasta,
2016Hotlum-Bolam Route 10 a.m. on October
At approximately
10, rangers Forrest Coots and Matt
Dooley received a radio transmission
reporting a climber (male, mid-20s)
with a broken ankle on the Hotlum-
Bolam Route. The climber reportedly
fell above 12,000 feet on an ice sheet
and tumbled some distance; his
0 2413
crampon eventually snagged and
 Fall on Snow – Failure to Self-Arrest California,
2016 Mt. Shasta,
Michael Avalanche
Murphy, Gulch
in his mid-50s, was
climbing the Avalanche Gulch Route
with partners early the morning of
June 11. They reached the Red
Banks and decided to turn around.
They had begun descending when, at
about 12,400 feet, Murphy caught his
crampons on the cuff of his pants,
0 2414
tripped, and slid 2,000 feet down the
Fall on Snow – Glissading With Crampons2016California, Mt. Shasta,
On June Avalanche
16 a female Gulch
climber was
descending the Avalanche Gulch
Route with crampons on her boots.
While glissading just below the Red
Banks, at about 12,000 feet, both of
her crampons caught in the snow,
breaking her ankles and taking her for
a good tumble. Other climbers
0 2415
splinted her ankles with ski poles, and
Fall on Snow – Loss of Control of Glissade
2016California, Sierra
On April 1, Nevada, Mt. Whitney
Sheila Hollins and I (Mike
Zarski) attempted a winter-conditions
ascent of Mt. Whitney from Whitney
Portal. Because I had injured my
ankle the day before, we only reached
Trail Crest by afternoon, so we
decided to turn back and camp at
Trail Camp.
0 2416
Our plan was to glissade the long
Fall on Snow – Loss of Control While Glissading
2016 Wyoming,
At Grand
TrailTeton
approximately
chute below 4:30 National
Cresta.m.
thaton Park, Middle Teton
July
runs
25,
parallel to the switchbacks (which age
Climber 1 and Climber 2 (both
25)
weredeparted the Lupine Meadows
also snow-covered). Our
Trailhead with plans to climb the Dike
Route on the Middle Teton. At
approximately 4 p.m. they reached
the top of the Dike Pinnacle and
decided, due to the time of day, not to
0 2417
continue to the summit.
Fall on Snow — Climbing Unroped Alaska,2016Chugach State Park,
On Sunday, Mt. Yukla
January 18, 24-year-old
Dasan Marshall fell to his death on
the north face of 7,535-foot Mt. Yukla
in Chugach State Park. He was
attempting a variation of the route No
Call, No Show with his climbing
partner, 23-year-old Nikolai Windahl.
[Editor’s note: No Call, No Show is a
0 2418
serious 20-pitch ice, snow, and mixed
Frostbite Alaska, Denali, West Buttress2016 On May 11, two members of Team
Kodiak made a summit bid from
17,200 feet on the West Buttress.
Conditions made progress slow. The
team reached 19,800 feet before
retreating and spent the night out
during the way down, not returning to
high camp until midmorning on the
0 2419
12th. Due to the prolonged exposure
 Shasta/Shastina saddle, and loaded
the climber. He was dropped off at
Bunny Flat and was in decent shape,
albeit dehydrated and very hungry. He
said that he had slipped and fallen,
Frostbite Alaska, Denali, West Buttress2016 On June
losing his12, guideand
helmet Michael
glove Horst
in the of
Alpine Ascents International contacted
process.
rangers by radio to say he was
ANALYSIS
attending Mt.
Because to aShasta
patientiswith frostbite at
a wilderness
17,200rangers
area, feet. The makepatient was stable
an attempt to
and
preserve wilderness characteristicsall
non-critical but had frostbitten by
10
usingfingers while setting
the minimum means up camp.
necessary
Ranger Tucker However,
for all rescues. Chenoweth, at 14,200
rangers
0 2420
feet,
believe the decision to use afacilitate
consulted with Horst to
HAPE Denali, West Buttress 2016 At 3:56 a.m. on June 16, Jacek Struk
helicopter for this rescue was
of the two-person Polish MJ
reasonable and prudent. Choosing to
Expedition, which was located at
not use mechanized equipment would
17,200 feet (high camp) on the West
have dramatically increased exposure
Buttress Route, called Comm Center
not only to rescue personnel but also
by satellite phone. Struk reported that
the climber.
his partner was experiencing
The climber was very inexperienced.
respiratory distress after returning
0 2421 He said this was his first time on snow
from the summit at 2 a.m.
HAPE and HACE Alaska, Denali, West2016 Buttress with ice axe and crampons,
At approximately 11:30 a.m.and his
on June
first time on Shasta. He
19, Ranger Joseph McBrayer’s patrol tried to climb
in
at one day, by camp
17,200-foot himself,wasunfamiliar
notified with
the
about route, in the dark,
a tent-bound with no
climber presenting
map/compass
with a decreased or GPS.
level ofHe left his
pack at Misery Hill.
responsiveness. He further
Upon could not find
his way back down
investigation, it wason a perfect,that
discovered
sunny day. He
the patient, chose to climb
a 26-year-old maleinof
0 2422 February. A winter climb of Mt.illShasta
Japanese descent, had fallen
Hypothermia and Exposure – Climbing 2016
Alone Alaska,
On May
can Denali,
up Westconsiderably.
5, Javier
the ante Buttress
Callupan, a 39-year-
old male from
Weather Argentina,
conditions couldwas have been
observed
much moving
worse, as wellfrom asthe
the11,200-foot
outcome
camp
of to the 14,200-foot
his situation. He learned campsome on the
West Buttress.
lessons, to say On the May
least,6 and
he moved
was
from thankful.
very the 14,200-foot
“I thoughtcampI wasto high
going to
camp at 17,200 feet. All
die several times,” he told rangers. other parties
attempting
We leave itto tomove to high
avalanche camp on
educator Jill
0 2423
this
Fredston to sum up this typetoof
day turned around due
Lost – Inexperience, Exhaustion, Climbing
2016Alone California, Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch
incident: “Every accident, of any kind,
is preceded by a chain of events or
errors, but each is set into motion at
one irreversible moment. Until that
moment, the accident might have
been prevented.” (Source: Mt. Shasta
Wilderness Climbing Ranger Report
0 2424 2015.)
Rappel Failure – Inadequate Anchor Arizona,
2016 Tonto National Forest,
In January, Arizona Coon
StateBluff Recreation Area
University
student Katelyn Conrad died after
falling 125 to 150 feet to the ground
while rappelling. Conrad, who had
some climbing experience, and two
other women were part of a group
practicing rappelling techniques. The
three women set up their rappel at the
0 2425
top of the cliff, and two of the women
 Rappel Failure – Inadequate Anchor, Piton
2016PulledOn
OutMay
Utah,30,
Canyonlands National
a 47-year-old man Park,
from Monster Tower
Colorado was killed when his anchor
failed while descending Monster
Tower, above the White Rim in
Canyonlands National Park. The
victim, Climber A, was climbing with
two companions, Climber B (27) and
Climber C (15). The weather was hot,
0 2426
and in addition to their climbing gear
River Crossing – Fatigue Alaska, Brooks
2016
Range, Arctic National WildlifeEdward,
Four friends—Dave, Refuge Greg,
and Jill—planned to attempt Mt. Itso
(8,975 feet) in the Brooks Range. The
group flew to the upper Jago River
landing site and crossed the river
without incident. After five days of
strenuous effort, via two different
sides of the mountain, the group
0 2427
turned around on June 18, about 800
Rock Slide Canada, Alberta, Grand Sentinel
2016 On August 15, 2014, Will Richardson-
Little and I started hiking toward the
Grand Sentinel at 7:20 a.m. from the
Moraine Lake parking lot. Our
objective was to climb the normal
route on the south face (4 pitches,
5.9). We had a standard rack, double
ropes, and helmets.
0 2428
Rockfall Arizona, Kaibab National Forest,
2016Sycamore
On Falls
June 25, a Boy Scout group was
climbing and rappelling at Sycamore
Falls (a.k.a. Paradise Forks). At
approximately 11:30 in the morning,
the first rappeller (age 56) was struck
in the left knee and foot by a falling
rock when he was approximately 20
feet above the canyon floor. He was
0 2429
able to safely lower himself to the
Rockfall Oregon, Mt. Washington 2016 In the evening of October 11, a 20-
year-old solo climber was hit in the
head by rockfall while rappelling the
summit block of this 7,795-foot
volcano. This caused her to fall about
15 feet and badly injure a knee. The
climber was able to descend to about
6,200 feet, but could not continue.
0 2431
She called for help at around 11:25
Rockfall – Anchor Chopped Utah, Little2016
Cottonwood Canyon, The
On February 14,Thumb
Carl Dec (48),
Morgan Lavery (33), and Billy Smallen
(33) were enjoying unseasonably
warm and sunny weather on the
Standard Thumb route (III 5.7) on the
Thumb formation. The three climbers
were very experienced, each of them
certified climbing guides. The trio had
0 2432
climbed the first two pitches of the
 Rope Sheath Destroyed Colorado, Boulder
2016CanyonOn September 12, I had a near miss
when I was climbing a sport route
called Twist and Shout (5.13c) at
Coney Island in Boulder Canyon. The
route has four fixed quickdraws on the
overhanging top half of the route, two
of which are regular quickdraws with a
nylon dogbone, and two of which are
0 2433
chain-link draws with regular
Slip on Rock – No Rope or Anchor Colorado,
2016 RockyRockyMountain
MountainNational Park,Park
National Lumpy Ridge, Batman Roc
rangers were notified by climbers that
a man fell from the summit of Batman
Rock to the base around 6:15 p.m. on
September 19. The 24-year-old
Vancouver, British Columbia, man
was hiking and scouting climbing
routes. He was standing near the
0 2434
edge when he slipped. He was not
Snake Dike Tragedy: Inadequate Anchor 2016
Tether, Inexperience
Around sunset California, Yosemite
on November 7, Valley, Half Dome
Angela Uys (26) was at an anchor on
Snake Dike (III 5.7), preparing to
rappel. Her tether system was not
effectively clipped to the anchor, and
when she weighted the system it
failed. She fell approximately 500 feet
to her death.
0 2435
At 9 that morning, Angela, Mason
Stranded – Darkness, Inexperience, Climbing
2016 AloneOn California,
Apriland
Kropp, aMt. Shasta,
10 Samantha
male Avalanche
climber
(Sam)in PerryGulch–Casaval Rid
his 20s
attempted a solo ski ascent via
started up the Mist Trail toward Snake
Avalanche
Dike. They Gulch and Casaval
were behind Ridge.
schedule
The weather was clear and the
conditions ideal for such a trip. He
started climbing at 4 a.m. and did not
summit until 7 p.m. While descending,
though it was still light out, he got
0 2436
disoriented. He had decided not to ski
Animal Bite Oregon, Smith Rock State 2016
Park, Lower
OnGorge
June 23, Bryan Simon (39) was
bitten by a bat (species unknown)
while climbing Pet Cemetery, a 5.11b
sport route at the Catwalk Cliff of the
Lower Gorge. After clipping the fifth
bolt, the climber placed a hand under
a flake on the left side of the route.
Multiple bats flew from the flake, and
0 2437
Simon pulled his hand back to reveal
Avalanche Washington, Granite Mountain2016 On the morning of December 31,
American Alpine Club President Doug
Walker, along with two friends, set out
to climb Granite Mountain, west of
Snoqualmie Pass. They planned to
follow the winter route that avoids the
active main avalanche chute on the
south side of the mountain. This route
0 2439
skirts the hazard to the west and
 Exposure – Inadequate Equiment New Hampshire,
2016 AtPresidential
5 a.m. on Range,
February Mt.15,
Adams
Kate
Matrosova, 32, of New York City, was
dropped off at the Appalachia parking
lot by her husband. She planned a
one-day winter traverse of the
northern Presidential Range, a
technically moderate mountaineering
objective that often has severe
0 2440
weather. The Mount Washington
Fall on Ice – Climbing Unroped Colorado,
2016Eureka,OnFirst Gully 30, Mark Miller (50) took
January
a fatal fall while guiding First Gully, a
four-pitch WI3 ice climb near Eureka.
Miller, a climbing guide from Ouray,
and his two clients were nearing the
top of the low-angle climb. Miller was
free soloing along-side the clients,
giving pointers as one led the pitch,
0 2442
when he fell. According to the clients,
Fall on Rock – Anchor Knot Failure North
2016Carolina,
On Pisgah
July 7,National Forest,County
Transylvania Looking Glass Rock
Rescue Team received a call at 3:36
p.m. regarding a fall with injury at the
South Side of Looking Glass Rock.
Wilderness First Responders were on
scene when I (Karsten Delap) arrived
at 4:08 p.m. to find the patient (male,
early 20s) supine, with his girlfriend
0 2443
holding C-spine. The patient was not
Fall on Rock – Belay Error, Communication
2016 Problems Colorado,
On October 24,Black Canyon
Daniel of the
Fullmer Gunnison National
(34,
over 15 years of experience) and I (32
years old, 15 years of experience)
were climbing Scenic Cruise (V
5.10d). There was a party above us
and at least another party within
earshot on a nearby route. I was
leading the Pegmatite Traverse (5.9+,
0 2444
pitch six). I was eight to ten feet shy of
Fall on Rock – Climber Unroped Colorado,
2016Sangre OndeSeptember
Cristo Range,3, Crestone
Dr. Matt Needle
Davis (41),
a trauma director at Scott & Baylor
Memorial Hospital in Temple, Texas,
and his partner, Ryan Brown,
attempted Crestone Needle, a
14,203-foot peak, via the Ellingwood
Arête (III 5.7). Davis and Brown
selected the route’s direct start,
0 2445
climbing three pitches of 5.6/5.7,
Fall on Rock – Climbing Unroped, Failure
2016to Place
OnProtection
March 7,Colorado, Poudre with
three climbers Canyon,
one North of the Cry
to five years of experience each—
Patrick Keatly (19), Travis Grimes
(22), and Robert Weddell (23)—
scrambled four or five miles along a
frozen creekbed to attempt an
unnamed peak in Poudre Canyon,
north of the Crystal Wall. In good
0 2446
weather, the group climbed several
 terrain led to the summit of
Whitehorse Ledge from this location.
At around 8 p.m., three members of
the Mountain Rescue Service
ascended Standard Route and made
Fall on Rock – Failure To Retie Knot Before
2016 Lowering
severalVirginia,
On December
tandem Hidden
20, Valley
Jennifer
rappels withKendall
the two
“Kayah” Gaydish
climbers to the base (36)offell from the
Whitehorse
anchorsOf
Ledge. atop
note a sport
was the route
factinthat
the one
Ginseng area.
climber’s harness An was
on-scene
not doubled
climber/paramedic
back when we reached and local
him. EMS
were unsuccessful
ANALYSIS in reviving her.
The
Inexperience and poor planningwith
route has a set of hangers skills
rings at the top.
necessitated thisFrom
rescue.what It is known,
0 2447
the climber
essential initially
that climbersintended
have to rappel.
goals and
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Experience New
2016Hampshire,
She Echo Lake State
experienced some Park, Whitehorse
difficulty with Ledge
terrain that mirror their experience.
Neither climber had made a rappel
prior to this outing (the tandem
rappels were their first). Seeking
proper instruction or choosing less
committing goals when learning is a
good way to avoid rescues. (Source:
0 2448 The Editors.)
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection California,
2016 Yosemite Valley,19,
On September El Capitan, Lurking Fear
at approximately
5:30 p.m., YOSAR was notified about
a climber who had taken a 15-meter
fall on Lurking Fear. The climber
suffered serious injuries, including
possible head trauma. The reporting
party was another climbing team on
Lurking Fear.
0 2449
With the use of a spotting scope,
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection Colorado,
2016 Eldorado
On
members Canyon,
the morning
of YOSARBastille
of July Crack
13,
were a party
able to
was
locate the injured party aroundthe
climbing the first pitch of pitch
Bastille
14. Using Crack (5.7+), which
a megaphone andwashand well
within the leader’s climbing ability.
The leader placed his first piece in a
crack/flake about nine feet off the
deck, then climbed up a couple of feet
and began moving into the crack to
0 2450
the left (a move usually considered
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection Idaho,
2016 Sawtooth Mountains,
On July 7, AnnaElephants
Dvorak, Perch
28, died as a
result of injuries from a long leader fall
on the third pitch of the Mountaineers
Route (III 5.9). Dvorak’s climbing
partner had led the first pitch, linking
the usual pitch one and most of pitch
two into a long lead. She took the lead
for the next pitch, passing the normal
0 2451
anchor for pitch two and continuing up
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection Nevada,
2016 RedOn Rock
MayCanyon
6, twoNational
teams (MikeConservation
and Keith,Area, Dark Shado
Chris and Jeff, all experienced
climbers) did the full Dark Shadows
(5.8, 10 pitches). Mike and Keith
topped out about 5 p.m., with the
second party trailing 15 to 30 minutes
behind. We called home to report all
was well, snapped some pics, and
0 2452
scouted the route down. Around 5:45
 Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection New
2016
York, Shawangunks,
On Labor DayThe Trapps to lead Thin
I planned
Slabs for the first time, having only
followed the climb once before. We
wanted to do the direct start (5.7) and
the challenging direct finish (5.7+). I
made it through the first hard moves
on pitch one clean, with good gear.
My buddy led pitch two to the Grand
0 2454
Traverse Ledge. We looked at the
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection Oregon,
2016 SmithOn Rock State Park,
September Christian
3, Peter Brothers
Kettering, 61,
was starting up what he believed was
Revelations (5.9). In fact, he was
mistakenly leading the harder climb
Irreverence (5.10a). Just before
clipping the first bolt, Kettering fell 12
to 15 feet to the ground. Kettering
injured both ankles in the fall and was
0 2455
carried to an ambulance.
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection Oregon,
2016 Smith Rock
Keith State Park, Christian
Kowalczykowski, Brothers
30, was
leading Hesitation Blues, a 5.10b face
and finger crack, on April 18. He
clipped the route’s two bolts, at
approximately 15 and 25 feet, then
placed a small cam at 30 to 35 feet.
He placed a fourth piece (type
unknown) and then fell, pulling the
0 2456
fourth piece from the wall. The rope
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection, Inexperience
2016 OnNew York,17,
August Adirondacks, Wallface
a 23-year-old male
climber fell while leading the second
pitch of Diagonal (5.8, seven pitches)
on Wallface, a 700-foot cliff five miles
from the trail- head. The leader had
gotten off-route on the broken and
bushy second pitch (5.5, with harder
variations). Reportedly, he was
0 2457
hanging on a cam and yelling up to
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Tree Anchor2016
Colorado,OnBoulder Canyon
August 16, 2014, a guide
(uncertified) took four clients (two
males and two females in their 20s) to
a top-rope climbing area in Boulder
Canyon. None of the clients had
climbed before.
The clients first did two routes that
had anchor bolts with chains at the
0 2458
top. The clients successfully climbed
Fall on Rock – Inexperience, Inadequate2016
Belay Pennsylvania,
On
them Birdsboro
September
and were 27, Quarry,
thenI took my Orange
lowered, being Sunshine Wall
girlfriend
climbing at Birdsboro Quarry. I had
been climbing for about five years, but
she had never belayed a leader. I
quickly showed her how to belay, then
led the easiest routes, 5.3 to 5.5, and
set up top-ropes so she could climb.
She had not brought a helmet, so I
0 2459
loaned her mine. At the end of the
 Fall on Rock – Loose Rock, Descending2016
UnropedOn
Utah, Little29,
March Cottonwood Canyon,
Emir Alikadic (38)Gate
andButtress
Thomas Gappmayer (27) had just
finished climbing Tingey’s Terror (5.7),
a multi-pitch route on the Gate
Buttress. After having lunch on top,
the two decided to descend via a
rappel into Green Adjective Gully, a
popular cragging zone on the west
0 2460
side of Gate Buttess. The two
Fall on Rock – Lowering Error, Inadequate
2016BelayTwo
Colorado, Eldoradoclimbers,
experienced Canyon, The
agesNaked
31 Edge
and 28, were attempting the Naked
Edge (5.11b) in August. The leader of
the 5.11a first pitch belayed at a two-
bolt anchor and set up to belay the
second directly off the anchor with an
ATC-Guide device in autoblock mode.
After the second took tension to
0 2461
retrieve a stuck cam, he asked to be
Fall on Rock – No Anchor on Top Washington,
2016 Dishman
Andrew Bower, 26, had taken it upon
himself to replace worn bolts at this
popular granite crag near Spokane
with new stainless-steel gear. On
November 6, he headed out alone to
continue the project. His family went
looking for him after he didn’t return
home that night and found his body at
0 2462
the base of the cliff.
Fall on Rock – Protection Pulled Out Colorado,
2016 Boulder
On MarchCanyon, The
16, in theBoulderado
early evening, I
was climbing at the Boulderado. As a
moderately experienced climber, but
new trad leader, I attempted to lead
Jam It (5.8- ). This single-pitch route
passes a small roof with a great hand-
size crack. After placing a cam
vertically in the crack, I pulled up over
0 2463
the roof and bulge to a small shelf.
Fall on Rock – Unable to Clip Anchors,2016
Inadequate Belaythe
During Kentucky, Red Riveron
early afternoon Gorge, Drive-by Crag
October
17, some friends and I were climbing
at Drive-By Crag. My friends didn’t
have much outdoor climbing
experience. Over a couple of days, I
had been watching Jake belay his
partner, and I felt confident that he
paid attention and was managing the
0 2464
rope appropriately.
Fall on Snow – Inadequate Equipment Montana,
2016 Glacier
On June National Park, Lithoid Cusp
27, experienced
mountaineers Jack Beard (60) and
David Steele (27) attempted a new
route to the Lithoid Cusp, a dramatic
spire atop the large east- facing wall
between Ipasha Peak and Mt. Merritt.
Their route involved much scrambling
to reach a steep snow couloir that led
0 2466
another 800 feet to the ridgeline. The
 Fall on Snow – Inadequate Equipment Oregon,
2016 Mt. OnHood, South
January 7,Side
while descending the
South Side Route, at about 9,700
feet, Edward Trompke, 62, fell and
slid about 200 feet, injuring his
shoulder. His son, climbing with him,
alerted authorities with a 911 call,
saying the fall was caused by a loose
crampon.
0 2467
Teams from Portland Mountain
Fall on Snow – Inadequate Protection Colorado,
2016 Rocky
On Mountain
March
Rescue National
31American
and we Park,
beganMedical Deep Freeze
the direct
start of Deep Freeze, a rock
Response lowered the subject in a chimney
(M5-6)
litter to that finishes
the ski area, on a low-angle
where Timberline
snow slope in a broad gully. This
leads to a shelf before rambling ice
and a final ice pillar (WI5-6). My
partner started up the chimney and
found good protection before
0 2468
disappearing above some
Lowering Error – Inexperience, Communication
2016 Issues Colorado,
On August 22 aPikes Peak
female climber (age
39) was injured while being lowered
from the anchor after top-roping a trad
climb. She was in a climbing party of
five exploring a granite crag near the
Crags Trailhead. Just below the
anchor, it was necessary to lower
over a large overlap to reach the slab
0 2470
below. As she pushed off the lip, the
Lowering Error – Inexperience, Communication
2016 Problems
On FebruaryColorado, Turkey climber
7, a female Rocks, Turkey
with Perch
two years of climbing experience
executed a slow but clean lead of Left
Handed Jew, a 5.7 trad route. I was
top-rope belaying a climber 20 feet to
the left of their route. During the climb,
several observers noted that verbal
communication between the lead
0 2471
climber and her belayer (the climber’s
Rappel Error California, Yosemite, El Capitan,
2016 The OnNose
May 27, five climbers had
gathered near Camp VI on the Nose
—a team of two and a team of three
had been climbing alongside each
other over the previous days. A
member of the team of three was
leading midway up the Changing
Corners pitch, above Camp VI, when
0 2472
a piece of gear dropped and landed
Rappel Error Georgia, Pigeon Mountain,2016
RocktownSuzanne Huffman (40) was climbing
with a church group on October 10.
While rappelling, she fell 30 feet to the
ground and died from her injuries.
One of her sons, who witnessed the
accident, told reporters, “She was
getting ready to go down and the
device was clipped into the rope, and
0 2473
it was unhinged just enough for the
 Rappel Error – Darkness California, Yosemite
2016 Valley, Washington
On October Column
30, at approximately 8:45
p.m., Yosemite Dispatch received a
report that a climber, Ethan Gillett,
had fallen 100 to 200 feet from the
South Face Route (V 5.8 C1) on
Washington Column and landed on
Dinner Ledge. Another climber, a
Wilderness First Responder,
0 2474
confirmed that Gillett was
Rappel Error – Hair Caught in Rappel Device
2016 Colorado,
It was Vallecito,
a beautifulLemon
morningReservoir
on
Memorial Day weekend. We had the
best spot to camp for the Lemon
Reservoir crag. One party already had
passed our camp, head- ing into the
canyon to the routes. Our group was
just finishing scarfing down our bacon
and eggs when we heard a female cry
0 2475
of sheer pain. We immediately took
Rappel Error – Inadequate Equipment, No
2016
BackupOn Vermont,
October Green Peak,a Bat
21, GR, Caves
45-year-old
male from Vermont, and TW, a 43-
year-old male, went to Green Peak
near Dorset to climb in the Bat Caves
area. They hiked to the top of a 40- to
50-foot cliff, where they used a static
line to anchor themselves as they set
up a top-rope anchored to a pair of
0 2478
bolts.
Rockfall Utah, Little Cottonwood Canyon,
2016
Pfeifferhorn
During the afternoon of February 1,
Susan DeBruin (30) and Derek
DeBruin (27) hiked in to Maybird
Gulch above Little Cottonwood
Canyon and established camp with
the intention of climbing the
Pfeifferhorn (a.k.a. Little Matterhorn
Peak) the following day. A small
0 2480
amount of snow fell overnight,
Rockfall – Inexperience Oregon, Smith 2016
Rock StateOn Park, Picnic
March 14,Lunch Wall
a large group of
climbers from the Yale University
Climbing Club was climbing at Smith
Rock. Two climbers headed up
Voyage of the Cow Dog, a three- pitch
5.9. One of them (age 20) was
following the third pitch when he
dislodged a microwave-size block
0 2481
above shoulder level. The rock fell
Stranded – Climbing Alone California, Yosemite
2016 Valley,
On June El17,
Capitan, Tangerine
Yosemite Tripand
Search
Rescue responded to a 6 a.m.
request for help from a solo climber
on pitch 15 of Tangerine Trip (VI 5.7
A3/C3). He reported that he had lost
partial use of both hands and that
completing the climb was no longer
viable. The climber had previously
1 2482
taken a full rest day, hoping this would
 storm (May 7 to 9) had deposited a
total of 21 inches of new snow, with
over two inches of moisture, to higher
elevations. Another storm system
deposited 10 inches of new snow and
Stranded – Climbing Alone Colorado, Boulder,
2016 Second
On inch
an Flatiron
March 6 a solo
of water climber
at the attempted
Rendezvous
Call the
Bowl Copps,
weather an ephemeral
station during theice period
climbMay
from (WI315 M3) on the
to 16. Whileeast theface
partyof the
did
Second Flatiron.
experience When heduring
light snowfall foundtheirthe
route deteriorating
ascent of the couloir in on
warm Mayweather
17, the
and threatened by falling
firm conditions in the couloir served ice, he to
instead climbed mixed
confirm their assumption that some terrain near the
most
snow popular
had already rock slid
route andupthat
the the
face
0 2483
(5.0) until he
hazard was reduced. reached a point where
Stranded – Darkness, Inadequate Communication
2016 Northcompleting
After Carolina, Hanging one climb Rock onState Park, Moore's Wall
The Sickle Couloir, and the terrain
September 17, Eli Huneycutt (20) and
that feeds it, would concentrate any
Will Apple (36) began climbing Zoo
old or fresh snow that avalanched.
View (5.7+), a classic two-pitch route.
While the avalanche that occurred
Huneycutt successfully led the first
was not large, it did entrain enough
pitch to the Crow’s Nest belay ledge.
snow in the steep couloir to cause
Apple began the second pitch, but
three of the four to fall.
was unable to negotiate a roof
1 2484 A party’s decision to go into the
section. It was becoming dark and the
Stranded – Exposure, Weather Washington, mountains
2016Mt. Rainier
On June 11, is Kyle
personal.
Bufis,Factors
25, andtohis be
considered are the team’s
partners, Derek Gavelis and Mathew experience,
abilities, fitnessout
Wiech, topped level,
on environmental
the challenging
conditions,
Liberty Ridge and the acceptable
route on the northlevel flankof
risk exposure.
of the mountain. Reports and evidence
After reaching Liberty
indicate
Cap, thethe triomembers
got caught ofinthis team
high windshad
the
andexperience, ability, and
whiteout conditions. fitness
They decidedfor
the objective.
to hunker down in a crevasse near
0 2485 Fatal avalanche and/or skicol at over
Liberty Saddle, the broad
Stranded – Late Start, Darkness, Failed 2016
to Follow mountaineering
Directions
My climbing Colorado,
partner Eldorado
and I (ages
accidents Canyon,
seem to beRedgarden Wall
33
andthe
on 30)rise
arrived
in Grandat EldoTetonearly on
National
MarchOne
Park. 29, intending
to two of these to climb events have
Swanson’s
been Arête, aeach
experienced multi-pitch
year for5.5.
at
We got
least thetopast
the fivebaseyears.
around Not10only
a.m.are
There events
these was a very inexperienced
traumatic party
for the parties
starting the first pitch of
and families involved, they can also an adjacent
route
expose when
rescuerswe arrived. They were
to significant, if not
0 2486
knocking down lots of
extremely, hazardous conditions. rocks, so we
Avalanche Wyoming, Grand Teton National 2016 Park, Mt. Moran, Sickle Couloir
While some amount of exposure is
ever present in the mountains,
mountaineers and rescuers alike must
employ objective, prudent, and
conservative judgment to minimize
that exposure where possible.
(Source: National Park Service
0 2487 Search and Rescue Report
Bear Attack Canada, Alberta, Banff National
2016 Park,On Mt. Wilson 29, British climbers
November
Greg Boswell and Nick Bullock were
descending in the dark from a
reconnaissance of a very difficult
mixed route high on the west side of
Mt. Wilson, above the Icefields
Parkway, when a grizzly bear
attacked Boswell, badly biting one of
0 2489
his legs. Boswell fought back until the
 Fall on Rock Canada, British Columbia,2016
Yoho National Park, Chancellor
On August 7, a pair ofPeak
climbers set
out to attempt a new route on the
north face of Chancellor Peak. After
climbing a considerable distance, they
encountered poor conditions and
decided to traverse to the northwest
ridge to complete their ascent. As the
lead climber was gaining the ridge, a
0 2490
hold broke and he fell 10 to 15
Fall on Rock – Darkness, Inadequate Protection
2016 West
FourVirginia, New River
friends were Gorge
climbing National
late at Park, Junkyard
night on July 5 at the Junkyard Wall
after bad weather earlier in the day
delayed their start. Near 2 a.m., John
(23) had just completed a solid lead of
New Yosemite (5.9), using headlamps
to light the way, but he was unhappy
with his lead because he felt he had
0 2491
“stitched it up” with too much
Fall on Rock – Failure to Clip Anchors 2016
West Virginia, New River
At 3 p.m. Gorge National
on November River, Sandstonia
6, a male
climber (age unknown) fell while
leading a sport route named Shady
Lady (5.7) at the Sandstonia area of
Bubba City. According to an NPS
incident report, the climber was
attempting to clip the anchors when
he fell. Due to slack in the system, the
0 2492
climber fell approximately 15 to 20
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Tie-In Knot, 2016
No HelmetA Wisconsin,
father and Devil's Lake State
his 9-year-old Park, Rainy Wednesday
daughter
were climbing at Rainy Wednesday
Tower on September 19. The father
had over 30 years of climbing
experience, and the daughter had
climbed indoors but did not have
much outdoor experience. The father
was standing on a ledge about 10 to
0 2495
15 feet up the 50-foot face, and was
Fall on Rock – Loose Rock Canada, Alberta,
2016 BowAValley
female Wildland
climberProvincial
in her 20sPark,
wasHa Ling Peak Boulde
bouldering at the base of Ha Ling
Peak, near Canmore, on March 27. A
piece of the boulder detached and
crushed her pelvis. She was
evacuated from the scene utilizing a
wheeled stretcher.
ANALYSIS
0 2496
The climber failed to test her holds.
Fall on Rock – Off Route Alberta, Banff2016
NationalOn
Park,
Much Castle
July
of 24, Mountain
the Banff Dispatch
Canadian Rockieswasis soft
relayed a 911 call from a climber
lime- stone, which is susceptible to
whose partner
frost jacking had just
during taken a 15-
the seasonal
meter leader fall on the upper cliffs of
Castle Mountain. They indicated they
were at the bottom of a popular route,
Brewer Buttress (III 5.6), on the Goat
Plateau, a wide band of scree midway
0 2497
up the mountain. The lead climber
 Fall on Rock – Scrambling Alone Alberta,
2016
Banff National Park,
Late in the Mt. Whyte
afternoon of July 28, a
lone 30-year-old male was traversing
the exposed alpine rock ridge heading
southwest from the summit of Mt.
Whyte toward Popes Peak. Partway
across this traverse, the subject
dislodged some loose rocks and fell
approximately 300 meters down the
0 2498
northwest side of the ridge, coming to
Fall on Rock, Stranded – Off-Route, Inadequate
2016 Gear Grand
At 7:30 Teton
a.m. National22,
on August Park, Teewinot
three
women began hiking up the “Apex
Trail” from the Lupine Meadows
Trailhead in an attempt to climb
Teewinot Mountain (12,325 feet). The
three climbers, all in their mid-20s,
were attempting to ascend the
standard east face route, a route that
0 2499
Climber 2 had done once before.
Fall on Snow – Inadequate Equipment, Poor
2016 Position Wyoming,
Climber 1 andMiddle
Climber Teton,
2 hadSouthwest
campedCouloir
in Garnet Meadows on the night of
August 28, with plans to climb the
southwest couloir on the Middle Teton
the following day. This route is 3rd
class and is considered the easiest
way to the summit. The two did not
carry helmets, ice axes, crampons,
0 2500
ropes, or any other climbing gear.
Fall on Snow – Inadequate Protection Canada,
2016 British Columbia,
On January 11,Joffre
threePeak
climbers
perished after falling nearly the full
length of the Central Couloir on the
north side of Joffre Peak, east of
Pemberton. The couloir is best known
as an extreme ski descent, but this
trio was ascending the route as a
snow and ice climb. They were
0 2501
climbing roped and had neared the
Rockfall Wyoming, Middle Teton, Dike2016Route At around 8:30 a.m. on July 7, Pete
Mumford, a past Grand Teton
seasonal employee, heard rockfall
and a subsequent call for help. He
quickly made his way to the base of
the Middle Teton, near the Black Dike,
where he found Climber 2 tending to
her husband, Climber 1, who had a
0 2504
broken left humerus and severe
Stranded – Off-Route Wyoming, Middle2016Teton, Dike Route 11, while attempting to
On August
climb the Dike Route on the Middle
Teton, Climber 1 and Climber 2—
brothers with 39 years of climbing
experience in the Tetons—got off-
route. Unable to locate the top of the
Dike Pinnacle, a prominent feature of
the route, the brothers began
0 2506
downclimbing and rappelling toward
 Stranded – Poor Position, Stuck Rappel 2016
Rope Wyoming,
On the Grand Teton,
night of Stettner
August Couloir
15, at about
8:45 p.m., Teton Interagency Dispatch
received a cell phone call stating that
six persons were stranded in the
Stettner Couloir. The subjects had
climbed the Petzoldt Ridge and then
rappelled into the couloir. They said
that they rappelled through several
1 2507
waterfalls, were cold, and that their
An Untimely Slip New River Gorge, Meadow
2017 River
On June 29, Chad Watkins (age 49)
was attempting the crux of the route
Big Top, a 5.12a trad climb in the
Greatest Show area of the Meadow
River Gorge. The nature of the crack
requires foot placements near and
just above gear. As Chad attempted
to move upward, his left foot popped
0 2508
from the crack and came into contact
Avalanche Alaska, Eastern Alaska Range,2017
Canwell
On Glacier
March 26, a group from a
University of Alaska Fairbanks
introductory mountaineering class was
out for its final climb. The class
consisted of nine students (ages 20–
28), one lead instructor, and three
volunteer assistant instructors. After
11 weeks of class, including nine days
0 2509
of hands-on field time, the students
Bike Crash During Descent From Climb2017Washington, North the
I climbed Cascades,
classicNorth
westTwin
ridgeSister
of Mountain
North Twin Sister Mountain near Mt.
Baker on a fine August day. It was
very warm and I got a late start. As
many do, I used a mountain bike for
the approach, which follows about
nine kilometers of logging roads. The
final part of this is an overgrown road
0 2510
that becomes a climbers’ trail. I left
Boulder Crushes Bugaboos Climber Canada,
2017 British
OnColumbia,
July 15, aPurcell Mountains,
loose boulder Bugaboos
shifted as Provincial P
a 32-year-old apprentice guide
approached the west ridge of Pigeon
Spire, sending him into a 10-meter
tumble. The boulder then rolled over
the climber, breaking 14 ribs and two
vertebrae and collapsing a lung; his
helmet was crushed in the fall but he
0 2511
did not have a head injury. He was
Dropped Haul Bag Breaks Climber's Arm 2017
California, Yosemite
On June Valley,
16, at El Capitan 12:30
approximately
p.m., Yosemite Dispatch received a
911 call about a climber injury on El
Capitan in the vicinity of the Heart
Ledges rappels. Pete, Mark, and Vlad
had just finished climbing Little John
Right, a three- to four-pitch 5.8 route
at the base of the west wall of El
0 2513
Capitan. (The names of all climbers
 Failure to Tie In Texas, Reimers Ranch 2017
Park On October 8, at the start of good
climbing weather in Texas, I (36 years
old) decided to start working on my
5.13 project for the season: Super
Cruiser at Reimers Ranch, outside of
Austin. At the end of the day we made
our way to the climb. Three climbers
were on the route next to us, and we
0 2514
casually talked about the day. One of
Fall From Summit Pinnacle California, 2017
Mt. Shasta"On June 22, shortly after noon, a 44-
year-old man fell off the summit
pinnacle of Mt. Shasta and sustained
multiple injuries. Shasta Mountain
Guides owner/operator Chris Carr and
local physician Dr. Sean Malee were
on the scene and handled patient
care. Dr. Malee’s report follows.
0 2516
As the climb doc for the Breast
Fall into Crevasse – Climbing Alone Mexico,
2017 Veracruz,
On thePico
Cancer de Orizaba,
morning
Fund Jamapathe
of February
Climb Against 8,Glacier
Jacob
Odds,
“Jake” Lloyd, an experienced
I was waiting on the summit for the
mountaineer
last rope team from Utah,
of our wasled
group, climbing
by
alone on the Jamapa Glacier, the
normal route up the 18,491-foot
mountain.
At approximately 18,200 feet, a snow
bridge collapsed and Jake fell about
0 2517
25 feet into a crevasse. Landing on
Fall on Rock Arizona, Sedona Area, Oak 2017
Creek Spire
On October
his back, he 6, at approximately
suffered only a few 3
p.m., the Coconino County Sheriff's
Office received a 911 call from a
climber (Person 1) who stated she
had broken her leg and was hanging
in her harness on the last pitch of Oak
Creek Spire. It was determined that
Person 1 was on the North Face/West
0 2518
Crack route. During the call Person 1
Fall on Rock – Fatigue, Inadequate Protection
2017 Wyoming, WindMalotky
I met Birch River Range, Warbonnet
in Colorado and Peak
we unexpectedly made plans to travel
the next day to the Wind River Range
to climb at the Cirque of the Towers.
We arrived at Big Sandy Trailhead
around 3 p.m. on August 23 and did
the hike in that afternoon, but only
made it as far as Warbonnet Peak,
0 2519
where we camped and decided to
Fall on Rock – Lowering Errors, Rope Too
2017Short IWashington,
had run up Index, Lower
the route Town Wall
Godzilla (5.9) to
put up a top-rope for my girlfriend and
her family. At the last second her
parents asked us to hang their rope
instead of ours. I didn't think about it,
but their rope was a 60m and mine
was a 70m. I was climbing in
approach shoes and everyone was
0 2520
chatting at the base—super casual,
 Fall on Snow – Painful Self-Rescue California,
2017 Mt. OnShasta, Avalanche
July 25 Gulch
at approximately 2:45
p.m., Bryan Bridgefs slipped and fell
below Red Banks on the south side of
Mt. Shasta. From his location at about
12,000 feet, Bridgefs called 911. Mike
Burns from Siskiyou County Search
and Rescue called climbing ranger
Matt Dooley at 3:15 p.m. to explain
0 2521
the situation. He said Bridgefs had
Fall While Downclimbing – Failure to Self-Arrest
2017 OnAlaska,
JuneDenali,
13, theWest Buttress of
six members
expedition “Extreme Travel”
completed their orientation at the
Talkeetna ranger station and flew to
the Kahiltna Glacier to begin a West
Buttress climb. The team moved to
17,200-foot camp on the eighth day of
their trip. Despite a more rapid ascent
0 2522
profile than normally recommended,
Fatal Fall on Mt. Assiniboine – Loose Rock,
2017 Climbing Unroped
A party of twoCanada, British
departed Columbia,
the Hind Hut Mt. Assiniboin
at 5:30 a.m. on August 30 to attempt
the north ridge of Mt. Assiniboine.
This is the most popular route up this
peak, rated 5.5 and Alpine Grade II.
Moving relatively quickly, the two
climbers gained the ridge at first light.
The previous day, they had discussed
0 2523
transitioning to roped climbing at the
Fatal Fall on Mt. Olympus Slab – Climbing
2017Unroped Utah,and
Celeste Wasatch Range, Mt.
her partner, bothOlympus
36 and
experienced climbers, were
approaching the technical crux of
Kamp’s Ridge (5.6) on Mt. Olympus. It
was a warm, sunny day around noon.
They were in fourth-class terrain when
Celeste fell approximately 100 feet.
She impacted a low-angle slab and
0 2524
rolled a few times before striking her
Fatal Fall on Mt. Tupper – Loose Rock,2017
ClimbingOn
Unroped Canada,
July 25, whileBritish Columbia,
ascending the Glacier National Pa
classic west ridge of Mt. Tupper, an
unroped climber pulled on a loose
block along the ridge top and fell
down the south face. His two climbing
partners witnessed him falling with the
large block, then cartwheeling out of
sight. They immediately called for help
0 2525
and a helicopter reconnaissance
Frostbite at High Camp Alaska, Denali,2017
West Buttress
At 11:17 a.m. on May 25, a 49-year-
old male and his 40-year-old male
climbing partner contacted the
mountaineering rangers at 14,200 feet
via family radio service (FRS) to
report that both individuals had deep
frostbite injuries. The injured climbers
were camped at 17,200 feet on
1 2526
Denali’s West Buttress Route. They
 Glissading With Crampons California, Mt.
2017Shasta,On
Avalanche
June 11,Gulch
a female climber was
descending the Avalanche Gulch
route. Once below the Red Banks,
she attempted to glissade down snow
toward Helen Lake. Somewhere near
the Heart, her crampons caught in the
snow or ice and she twisted or broke
her ankle. Ranger Nick Meyers
0 2527
responded to her location, at about
Ground Fall – Cams Pulled Out California,
2017South My
Lake Tahoe,
wife and Pie Shopclimbing at Pie
I were
Shop, a granite crag in South Lake
Tahoe where we had been multiple
times. I was leading the first pitch of
True Grip, a right-angling 5.10b finger
crack. While I am an experienced trad
leader and have comfortably climbed
many routes at this grade, my finger-
0 2528
crack skills were a known weakness.
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema Alaska, 2017
Denali, West Buttress
On June 16, a mountain guide
radioed NPS mountaineering rangers
from the upper West Buttress Route
to say that one of his clients was
exhibiting signs and symptoms of high
altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE).
The guided group was returning from
a summit attempt when the patient
0 2530
began to experience significant
Ice Climbing Fall – Descending Unroped2017
Canada,AtAlberta, Ghost
3:40 p.m. onRiver Valley4, two ice
February
climbers were descending the lower
portion of the Aquarius ice climb
(WI4). The first climber walked across
a large ice ledge to the anchor at the
top of the final rappel while his partner
pulled the ropes from the previous
rappel. As the first climber
0 2531
approached the edge, he slipped and
Injury While Descending Glacial Moraine
2017
Alaska,Three
Central Alaska Range,
climbers flew to Granite Glacier
the Pika
Glacier on July 16, spent a few days
rock climbing in the Little Switzerland
area, and began a traverse out of the
mountains on July 19. The team had
planned to return to Talkeetna on foot
and by packraft. At approximately 6
p.m., while they were descending the
0 2532
boulder-strewn moraine of the lower
Leader Fall on Banff Ice Climb Canada,2017
Alberta, Banff National
February 21, aPark,
partyProfessor Falls
was climbing
Professor Falls on the slopes of Mt.
Rundle and attempting to combine
pitches in order to complete the route
quickly. The leader, a very
experienced climber in his 50s,
climbed and protected the upper
portion of the second pitch, walked
0 2533
across a low-angle ice ledge to the
 Leader Fall Onto Ledge Colorado, Eldorado
2017 Canyon State5 Park,
March was aWest Ridge sunny day in
beautiful,
Eldo and I decided that after a good
warmup I would put in a few burns on
my project: Foxtrot (5.11d PG-13). I
had top-roped this climb several
times, doing it clean once.
I got up to the rest section just below
a small roof and placed a yellow
0 2535
Metolius TCU (approximately 3/4-inch
Leader Fall – Ankle Snagged By Carabiner
2017New York,
piece)Shawangunks
Toward inthe end ofAbove
a seam. the day onpiece is
that
November 19, I started up a 5.10c
trad route called Star Action in the
Trapps. At the crux, I went for the jug
but fell off. Though it should have
been a short, clean fall, my leg slid
along the rope and intersected a
protection piece. I was flipped upside
0 2536
down, and when I looked up I saw the
Leader Fall – Clipped Wrong Rope to Protection
2017 Canada, Ontario, Metcalfe
An experienced North age 68,
local climber,
was leading Peak Season in Harlem
(5.8/5.9), a nine-bolt sport route, in
June. He attempted to take a rest by
hanging at the ninth bolt, but when he
sat back on the rope, he fell to about
the height of the fourth bolt, impacting
a ledge during his fall. The accident
0 2537
occurred around 11 a.m. His final
Ledge Fall – Inadequate Protection California,
2017 Yosemite
On April Valley,
16, atChurch
about Bowl
3 p.m., Yosemite
Dispatch received a report of a
climber who had taken a lead fall and
was bleeding severely at Church
Bowl. The climber (male, age 24) had
pulled multiple pieces of protection
from the Bishop’s Terrace route (5.8)
and landed on a ledge 20 feet above
0 2538
the ground. An advanced life support
Long Fall on Carlsberg Column – Inadequate
2017 Protection Canada, British
On December 28, twoColumbia, Yoho National Park, C
experienced
climbers started up the classic Field
ice climb known as Carlsberg Column.
Carlsberg has an “approach pitch”
that starts out with a steep little pillar
(WI3) and then continues for another
30 meters of low-angled ice to reach a
large ledge below the main route.
0 2539
After climbing the steep part of the
Long Leader Fall on Kemosabe Ice Climb 2017
– Inadequate Protection29,
On November Canada,
while Alberta,
leading Kananaskis
the Country, W
second pitch of Kemosabe (100
meters, WI4), a 35-year-old climber
took a 40-meter fall from near the end
of the pitch, pulling out two ice screws
before his fall was arrested. The
climber sustained life-threatening
injuries, including a skull fracture and
0 2540
broken pelvis. His two climbing
 Lowering Error at Rumney – Rope Too 2017
Short for On
Climb New Hampshire,
September Rumney,
8, two men wereParking Lot Wall
climbing Shealyn’s Way (5.7), a sport
route approximately 75 feet high. As
the leader was lowering from the top,
approximately 25 to 30 feet from the
ground, the tail of the rope passed
through the belayer’s device and the
climber fell to the ground, sustaining
0 2541
an injury to his lower extremities.
Lowering Error – Clipped Wrong Rope 2017
Into Anchor
OnNew Mexico,
January 18, Diablo Canyon, Sun2 Devil Wall
at approximately
p.m., Climber 1 fell from the top
anchors of pitch two of Appendicitis
(5.10a) on the Sun Devil Wall. She fell
approximately 170 feet to the ground.
Trained medical professionals were
climbing nearby and immediately
rendered aid, including CPR. An
0 2542
emergency medical helicopter was
Pendulum Fall During Rappel Retreat from
2017Matthes
WillCrest
andCalifornia, Yosemite
James started National Park, Matthes Cr
climbing
Matthes Crest in the late morning on
September 11. Both have spent
decades climbing in the Sierra. (Their
names have been changed here.) The
day had started out with clear blue
skies, and both climbers felt that the
weather report promised stable
0 2543
enough conditions to proceed with the
Pendulum Fall – Off Route, Inadequate 2017
ProtectionOnWyoming, Grand
August 22, Teton National
a 36-year-old Park, Nez Perce
female
climber and her climbing partner left
the Lupine Meadows Trailhead,
headed for the south ridge of Nez
Perce (III 5.7). The climber’s partner
(mid-20s) planned to lead the entire
route. The two had met through
Mountain Project and had never
0 2544
climbed together before.
Rappel Error – Inexperience, Inadequate2017
Backup West Virginia,
On April 17 anSeneca Rocks, East
inexperienced Face, Bee Sting Corne
male
climber (age unknown), a member of
a three-person team, was rappelling
for his first time from the anchor atop
Bee Sting Corner (5.7) on the east
face at Seneca Rocks. A more
experienced climber rappelled the line
first and was at the base when the
0 2545
accident occurred. The climber
Rappel Error — Damaging Pendulum Swing 2017 Yosemite
On May Valley,
3, atRoyal Arches Area
approximately 11:30
p.m., a climber notified park rangers
that his climbing partner might have
sustained a broken leg during a
rappelling accident while descending
from the route Sons of Yesterday. The
patient was located on a belay ledge
at the start of the second pitch of the
0 2546
route Super Slide, to climber’s left of
 Scrambling Fall in Sir Donald Group – 2017
Loose Hold
AtCanada,
the endBritish Columbia,
of August, Glacier
a party National Park, Sulz
of three
climbers attempted a lightweight
traverse of the peaks that bound the
headwaters of the Illecillewaet River,
including Mt. Sir Donald. This is a 37-
kilometer trip with nearly 6,000 meters
of vertical gain and loss. The group
was traveling extremely light, with just
0 2547
the bare necessities for their
Scrambling Fall on Mt. Haig – Forced Bivouac,
2017 Inadequate
On November Equipment Canada,
13 a party of Alberta,
six Border Ranges, M
scrambled to the summit of Mt. Haig,
in the far southern Canadian Rockies,
via the east ridge. At about 4 p.m., as
the party was descending, one
member of the group stumbled
forward and at the same time lost her
grip on her ice axe. This resulted in a
0 2548
tumbling fall of approximately 40
Severe High Altitude Illness Alaska, Denali,
2017 WestOnButtress
April 17 the “Gonna Die!”
expedition team flew to the Kahiltna
Glacier for a planned 21-day ascent of
the West Buttress climbing route.
Expedition Gonna Die! was the first
team of the 2016 season to reach the
14,200-foot camp and the only
expedition camped in the basin at the
0 2549
time of this incident.
Simul-Rappel Failure – No Backups California,
2017 Yosemite
The names Valley, Reed's
of the Pinnacle
climbers in this
report have been changed. On July
10, at 2:50 p.m., Yosemite Dispatch
received a call regarding a climber fall
with injuries at Reed’s Pinnacle. The
initial reports came in as a male
climber with a broken leg. Upon arrival
at the parking area, the first
0 2550
responding ranger found an adult
Ski Mountaineer Hit by Falling Cornice2017
Canada, Alberta,
A groupBanff National
of seven Park,
skiers wasMons Icefield
attempting the southern portion of the
Great Divide ski traverse, which goes
from the Columbia Icefields to Lake
Louise. On May 4 they were using the
standard bolted rappel route off the
west glacier of the Mons Icefield. This
descent goes through a 100-meter
0 2551
rock band below a snow slope and
Stranded on Mt. Hunter by Avalanche Danger
2017 Alaska, Mt. Hunter,
A climber departedWestTalkeetna
Ridge on
January 21 for a planned 65-day
winter solo expedition on the west
ridge of Mt. Hunter. At 7 a.m. on April
1, the Alaska Region Communication
Center (ARCC) received an
emergency notification and GPS
coordinates from the climber’s SPOT
1 2552
device. At 10 a.m. the state’s Rescue
 broke and Brent fell off. Sean, who
was belaying, caught the fall.
However, the horn that had been
slung as an anchor, plus a three- foot-
wide section of the surrounding rock,
Stranded on Mt. Tupper – Inadequate Equipment
2017 sheared
Canada,
On off
20,the
JuneBritish wall.
a pairBrent
asColumbia, fell toNational
of Glacier
climbers the
was Park, Mt. Tu
ground, narrowly missing
ascending the south buttress of Mt. being
crushed
Tupper, wet, by the blocks
snowy falling around
conditions slowed
him.
their progress in the upper third of the
Brent
route. remained
The climbers conscious
did notand bringmoved
ice
under
axes and crampons for traversingthe
his own power away from the
base of the ledges
final snowy climb. An initial
to the scan
west ridge
found
near the bloodtop,onnorhis didhead,
they acarrybloody
0 2553 nose, and a thigh
bivouac gear. Thelaceration.
pair realized Hethey
Swinging Fall on Sport Climb Arizona, 2017
Jacks Canyon
Toward
pointed out the that
end his of aleft
fullankle
day ofwas
climbing,
disfigured,a so group
Sean headed
removed to the
theSlot
Machine,shoe
climbing a prominent
from thatfeaturefoot. As of the
the
Casino
shoe wasCliffs in Jacks
removed, the Canyon. One
pad of Brent's
climber,
heel Person
fell into 3, attempted
my hand, exposing Slots O
Fun, a 5.10a
muscle and bone.limestone
We used sportclothing
route,
approximately
and a towel to 35 bindfeetup high,
Brent's with four
ankle
boltsheel,
and and a bolted
and anchor.
quickly preparedPerson to 2
0 2554
was belaying.
evacuate. Person
During 3 was able
the 40-mile drivetoout
Unroped Fall From Alpine Ridge California,
2017 Sierra
OnNevada, Bear Creek
the afternoon Spire
of September 18, a
of the backcountry, I was able to
two-person party was near the summit
connect with emergency services via
of Bear Creek Spire (13,726 feet)
my cell phone. An ambulance met us
after climbing the east ridge, one of
en route and determined that an airlift
the longest routes in the Sierra (5.8
to the hospital in Grand Junction was
and more than 20 pitches, if the entire
warranted, given the extent of Brent's
route is belayed). Although the party
injuries. He reached the hospital only
carried a rope and had used it for
0 2555 two hours after the accident and
some of the more difficult sections of
2017 Riverrecovered
‘Sticky’ Cam Pulls Out West Virginia, New OnGorge, well.Buttress
Bridge
the afternoon of May 22, a female
ANALYSIS
climber (age unknown) was
“Looking
attempting atto
theleadscene
the of the Layback,
route accident
later that day, it was
a 5.9+ trad climb at the popular easy to seeBridge
there
were
Buttress area. The climber took a the
mistakes made in choosing
horn
short asfall,a loading
top-ropeher anchor,
highest and we a
piece,
probably should not have
finger-size cam, which then pulled even tried
climbing
from the [in this area]The
placement. at all due to the
climber’s fall
0 2556 loose rock.” A backup might haveonto
continued approximately 12 feet
Take' Leads to Two Cams Pulling Out Colorado,
2017 Eldorado
On April Canyon,
prevented West Ridge
3,Blakenburg’s
a 23-year-old femalefall,
ground
climber
but he also might have been hit(5.10c).
was climbing Sooberb by a
Nearing
large piece theof crux,
rockaifsignificant
he hadn’t fallen
overhang
out of its way; split abyboulder
a handimpactedcrack, the
climber
right whereplacedhe’dtwo beenpieces, one of
climbing. The
which was
bottom line:aSome
cam with rockonly justtwoisn’tlobes
engaged.
meant to be Fearing
climbed. she might pump out
on the climbers
These crux above, she decided
correctly completed to rest
0 2557
by hanging
an assessment fromofthe rope clipped to
Blakenburg’s
Anchor Failure – Poor Rock, No Backup2017
Utah, Canyonlands National Park, Maze District
injuries prior to evacuation. A full
patient assessment is important to
avoid overlooking injuries. Disfigured
limbs or bloody wounds often distract
from other potentially serious issues,
such as neck and spinal injuries,
especially in ground falls. (Sources:
0 2558 Jason Bernard and the Editors.)
 Avalanche New Hampshire, Mt. Washington,
2017 Tuckerman Ravineand three skiers were
Two climbers
involved in an avalanche in
Tuckerman Ravine on Sunday,
January 17. The two climbers, both
from Canada, were ascending a gully
called the Chute on the left side of the
ravine. Four skiers and an avalanche
class were nearby at the time. Just
0 2559
before 1 p.m., the pair climbed over
Benighted and Stranded New Hampshire, 2017
White Mountain
On NovemberNational
19,Forest, Cannon
two men Cliff
in their
20s started up a long climb in the
Vertigo area. The pair had a single
rope and adequate clothing for a full
day out. After the first four or five
pitches of most routes in this area of
Cannon, the climbing tends to peter
into brushy ledges punctuated by
1 2560
short slabs, and route-finding can
Broken Hold – Inadequate Protection New2017Hampshire,
On May North
28,Conway,
a party Humphrey's
was climbing Ledge
at
Humphrey’s Ledge, just outside of
North Conway. The leader was
attempting a climb called Sting Like a
Butterfly, an obscure 5.10. A
handhold broke as the climber was
pulling through the crux of the route
and the climber fell. As he did, a cam
0 2561
he’d placed in a loose flake pulled
Deep Water Soloing Injury West Virginia,
2017Summersville
At 7 p.m.Lake, Rats Hole
on August 23, Jesse
Grupper (age 18) was attempting an
unclimbed project (now 5.13d) during
the first deep water solo competition
on real rock in the United States:
PsicoRoc 2016 at Summersville Lake.
After successfully negotiating the
climb to the final move, Grupper fell
0 2562
approximately 55 feet and landed
Exposure, Hypothermia Washington, Mt.Rainier,
2017 Gibraltar
About 10Ledges
p.m. on March 26, people at
Camp Muir notified rangers that two
climbers had not returned from their
summit bid and their gear was still in
the shelter. At 9:30 a.m., Monique
Richard, 41, could be heard yelling for
help above Camp Muir.
After she was helped down to camp,
0 2563
she said that she and her partner,
Fall on Ice – Using Microspikes Instead2017
of Crampons New
IArvid
organizedYork,
Lahti, a Adirondacks,
trip
58, to the
had beenHighHaystack
in aMountain
Peaks
caught
region of the Adirondacks for
storm while descending. They soughtMarch.
The plan was to summit Mt. Haystack,
Saddleback Mountain, and Basin
Mountain in one day, under late-
winter conditions, in order to simulate
a long alpine climb. There were nine
people in our party, mostly from the
0 2564
D.C. area, with varying degrees of
 force trauma to his head. A rescue
was launched within seconds. Two
groups ran to the road to call for help,
and five of us tended to Mark, clearing
his airway and helping him to regain
Fall on Snow – Inadequate Protection, Failure
2017 to Self-Arrest
On June 9Oregon, a party Mt. Hood,
of two South Side Route
experienced
his breathing. We wrapped his body in
climbers (ages 49 and 52) fell high on
warm clothes and secured his head
the South Side Route while
and spine. After five minutes, his
descending the “Old Chute.” The
breathing began to decline, until
roped pair was unable to arrest the
eventually we began CPR that
fall. One of the climbers suffered
ultimately was not successful.
facial lacerations and bruised ribs. He
ANALYSIS
was evacuated by a joint team from
0 2565 Upon review, it seems Mark had seen
Portland Mountain Rescue and
Fatal Fall – Climbing Unroped Oregon, 2017 one
Mt. Washington side ofnoon
At around his rappel
on June rope30,go behind
Brian
a pillar (28)
Robak aboutleft20BigfeetLake
off the ground
Youth Camp
and had assumed the
to attempt Mt. Washington (7,795 end would
reach the ground.
feet). Robak posted After the accident,
a social media
only one strand of rope
photo confirming that he’d reached was threaded
through
the summit his at
belay device, and4:30
approximately the p.m.
entire rope was on the
He was reported missing around ground. It 3
seemed
a.m. Searchers located personal had
clear that his rappel rope
0 2566 not reached the ground on both sides.
possessions below Mt. Washington’s
Fatal Ground Fall – Climbing Alone Colorado,
2017 Front
On Range,
This October
is likelyThe
25,
oneIronclads
the body
of the of 60-year-
most common
old Dr. James Lee “Jim”
forms of climbing accidents and Detterline
was found and
tragedies, at the base of atosmall
it happens cliff
the best
in the Ironclads, a group
of us. It’s an easy mistake to make of rock fins
south
when the of Rocky
rope isMountain
not visible National
entirely
Park. Detterline
from above. was a prominent
figure in the national
On analysis, if Mark had park,wornwherea he
worked or
helmet fortied
more than two
stopper knotsdecades
in the as
0 2568
LongsofPeak
ends supervisory
his rope, the outcomeclimbingmight
Fatal Rappel Error – Uneven Rope Ends, 2017
No Stopper Knots, No Helmet Utah, Indian Creek Canyon, Way
have been different.
Those of us on this rescue ask others
to remember to slow down, double-
check your ropes, double-check your
rappel device, double-check your
knots, wear a helmet, and back up
your rap so you can climb again
0 2569 tomorrow. (Source: Jeremy Collins.)
Glissading Without Ice Axes Colorado, 2017
San de Cristo
On MayMountains,
26, twoHumboldt
climbersPeak took long
falls and sustained injuries while
descending from 14,064-foot
Humboldt Peak. Starting in
midmorning from a campsite at the
trailhead, they had snowshoed to the
upper mountain and then climbed the
easy west ridge, reaching the summit
0 2570
at 6 p.m.
Ground Fall Before Reaching First Piece2017
Colorado, Eldorado
Kurt Ross was Canyon, Roof me
belaying Routes
(an
experienced climber) on Guenese, a
5.11a trad route with a few fixed
pieces. I considered placing a 0.5
Camalot in an overlap before clipping
a piton, the first fixed pro on the route,
but I didn’t. I’m only 5 feet tall, and the
pin felt very far away. I backed down
0 2571
once or twice before working out the
 Ground Fall in Smith Rock's Lower Gorge
2017Oregon,
A Smith Rock, Lower
37-year-old climberGorge
was leading
Blood Clot (5.10b) on March 19 when
he fell from approximately 15 feet up
while attempting to clip his second
piece of protection. The climber
landed on the ground on his side and
fractured his arm.
ANALYSIS
0 2572
Pulling up rope to clip protection is a
Ground Fall – Inadequate Belay Oregon,2017
Smith Rock,
On Morning
November
hazardous Glory
12 atWall
moment around
in 11 a.m.,
a climb,
two experienced climbers were
especially close to the ground, since it
attempting Doritos
adds significant (5.12c).
slack to theOne of the
belay
climbers (male, age 28) was leading
the route when he fell off and the
belayer (female, approximately 30)
failed to arrest his fall. A witness
observed the climber fall 50 to 60 feet
0 2573
and land on his belayer, who was
Ground Fall – Inadequate Protection Tennessee,
2017 Chattanooga, Suck Creek
Late in the morning on Canyon
November 20,
Josh Benti (26) and Jordan Tidbal-
Sciullo (26) met Drew Bailey (39) at
the Suck Creek climbing area and
decided to climb a 5.8 offwidth (name
unknown). While racking up, Josh
noticed that no one in the group had
any gear larger than a number 3
0 2574
Black Diamond Camalot.
Ground Fall – Loose Rock, Inadequate Belay
2017 NewThe York, Adirondacks,
following report Starbuck Mountain
is condensed
from “Unbelayvable: A Missed Catch,”
published November 2016 in Climbing
magazine, with permission of the
author, Kevin Corrigan, and the
climber, Annie Nelson.
I’m a 20-year-old from upstate New
York. Last August I met a pair of
0 2575
climbers at Shelving Rock, and we
Ground Fall – Protection Pulled Out North
2017Carolina,
On
madePilot Mountain,
September
plans 17,Veg-O-Matic
to check a male
out a climber,
new wallJC
(23), took a ground fall that resulted in
a medical evacuation. JC was leading
Veg-O-Matic (5.7+ or 5.8), a one-pitch
trad climb, when he fell approximately
40 feet to the ground. A climber on an
adjacent climb observed the fall and
called in the incident. He stated that
0 2576
JC was pulling the final overhang (and
Ground Fall – Small Cams Pulled Out New
2017York,Our
Adirondacks, Chapel
party of six, withPond
threePass
experienced climbers and three
newbies, headed to the Lower Beer
Walls on June 25. I chose to lead a
5.8 trad route, Rockaholic, a left-
leaning finger crack on polished
granite.
As I started up the climb, I placed a
0 2577
nut and then a micro-cam. My third
placement was also a micro-cam, a
0.2 Black Diamond X4, in a flared
 On August 14, a leader (male, 40s)
was attempting the third pitch of La
Selva (5.8), which begins in low fifth-
class terrain and steepens into a
Highball Bouldering Fall Utah, Big Cottonwood
2017 dihedral
Canyon
A 30-year-old with amalewidehad crackbeenbefore an
exit left on vertical terrain.
bouldering with two other friends The leader
in an
placed a number 4
area near Lake Mary. The patient Camalot for hiswas
last piece ofa protection.
attempting hard and high He wasnew five or
six feet above this
problem that he had previously Camalot when he
top-
came off, falling approximately
roped a number of times. He fell from 15 feet
and
20 tolanding30 feet,onlanded
a ledge onandhis striking
his right hip.pads
bouldering Thereat anwasodd 150angle,
to 170 and
0 2578 feet
thenof ropedown
rolled in service
a steep at the timefor
hillside of
Leader Fall on Ice – Ice Tool Puncture Wound
2017 Utah, Ithe
wasLittle
fall.on Cottonwood
Rookie Party Canyon, Snowbird
in Pipeline
Bowl,
The climber was able to stand resort,
above the Snowbird ski up and
on October
secure 23. This
an anchor is a WI4
in order single-
to bring up
pitchsecond.
the ice climb at aboutevery
However, 10,500 timefeet.
he
Ice conditions
internally weren’t great,
or externally rotatedbut hisother
right
thanhe
hip, messing with my
experienced head, the
moderate pain in
conditions
the did notthat
joint. Fearing playhe a role
mayinhave my
fall. The
had totalfracture,
a pelvic climb is the around
party220 feet,
0 2580
but it is mostly
initiated a rescue low-angle
by calling except
911. for a
Leader Fall on Ice – Thin Ice, Inadequate
2017
Protection
MyNew two York,
partners Adirondacks,
and I (male, Pitchoff
age 40),Mountain
As is usual for high-angle rescues in
all experienced climbers, were in the
New Mexico, a multi-agency effort
Adirondacks on January 26 for the
was required. The second climber
AAC Metro New York Section’s Winter
was extricated first, because the
Outing. We decided to climb Screw
injured subject was stable and
and Climaxe, a well-known, 350-foot
potential rockfall from a litter
WI3+ on the north side of Pitchoff
evacuation would pose a great hazard
Mountain.
0 2581 to the uninjured climber and anyone
Leader Fall – Inadequate Protection California, else
2017 Yosemite
Around at the belayon
National
midday ledge
Park, below.
Tuolumne
August 12, The
aMeadows, Daff Dome
injured
climbing party on Crescent Arch with
climber was then secured
a pelvic on
(5.10a) splint
Daffand Dome Stokes litter, that
reported and a
450-foot
the 48-year-old, male leader hadthe
raise was performed to
top
taken of aMuralla
25-footGrande.
fall and Itsustained
was reported a
that the leader suffered
dislocated shoulder and what a minor non-
displaced
appeared pelvic to be afracture.
broken ankle. It was
ANALYSIS
reported that the belayer was pulled
0 2582 Crux passages of the
climbs, especially
up while catching fall and may
Leader Fall – Inadequate Protection North
2017Carolina, Linville
During
those the Gorge
with morning
low-angleWilderness,
ofterrain
February Shortoff
6, SO
or ledges Mountains
and his partner started
immediately below the crux, mandate the three-pitch
classic
extra care Dopeyand Duck (5.9). Both
protection. The were
experienced climbers,
description of this pitch at Mountainand SO had
climbedsuggests
Project the routethat before. SO began
“leaders at their
leading
limit maythe firstapitch,
want second placing
largethree
cam”
solid
for the pieces. Somewhere
wide crack. above the
Some climbers
third placement,
break he fell approximately
this rope-stretching pitch in two,
0 2583
25 feet.
which He the
puts landed
belayerfeet-first
closer ontothethe
Leader Fall – Inexperience, Inadequate 2017
Protection New Mexico, Sandia Mountains, Muralla Grande
crux, greatly reducing rope stretch
and improving the belayer’s ability to
react to a fall. Guides often use
shorter pitches to improve
communication and safety without
hindering speed. (Sources: James
Marc Beverly and Erin Renee
0 2584 Beverly.)
 Leader Fall – Loose Rock, Chopped Rope 2017
Utah, Indian Creek Canyon,
On November BridgerBrasseur
14, Kelsey Jack, Hummingbird Spire
(29) and I (28) planned to climb all of
Indian Creek’s Bridger Jack towers in
a day. By 3 p.m. we had dispatched
four of the towers and arrived at the
base of Hummingbird Spire, where we
ran into an acquaintance, Andrew,
and his partner. After swapping
0 2585
pleasantries, Kelsey and I started up
Leader Fall – Lost Tooth West Virginia,2017
Summersville Lake,on
At 4 p.m. Long
AprilWall
8, Connor Damato
(age 21) was attempting to lead Jesus
Is My License Plate (5.10d), a sport
route on Long Wall. This was
Damato’s first outdoor roped climbing
experience and his first day of lead
climbing. He and his partner had been
climbing all day.
0 2586
Damato’s partner attempted to lead
Leader Fall – Protection Pulled Out California,
2017 Yosemite
The
the pitch Valley,
names Washington
butofstopped
the climbers Column
at theinsecond
this
report have been changed.
bolt and was lowered. Damato then On
October
began the 7, route,
Mike and Dylan
moving startedthe
through up
the South Face (5.8 C1) of
Washington Column. The two had
done a little climbing together, but
never in Yosemite Valley and mostly
on single-pitch climbs. Mike was the
0 2587
more experienced of the two, having
Leader Fall – Rope Behind Leg Colorado,2017
GardenMy of the Gods, partner,
climbing Red TwinWarren
Spire (23), and
I (28) had come to Garden of the
Gods during a climbing and hiking trip
to Colorado from our home in
Kentucky. It was almost 8:30 p.m. on
July 23 by the time we finished hiking
around the park, but we felt there was
still enough time to sneak in a quick
0 2588
climb. One route seemed within our
Lowering Error – Rope Too Short, Failure
2017to Close System
Salt LakeUtah,
County Little Cottonwood
Search Canyon, The Egg
and Rescue
got called out at 2:36 p.m. on October
2 for a 35-year-old male climber who
had fallen 30 or 40 feet after climbing
Leggo My Eggo, a 5.10a bolted face
on the Egg. He was believed to have
broken or sprained his ankle. The fall
occurred when the man’s climbing
0 2592
partner was lowering him and let the
Rappel Error – Climbing Alone Utah, Zion
2017National
OnPark, MoonlightofButtress
the afternoon March 9, two
climbers on the Moonlight Buttress
route reported that someone had
fallen from above them. Rangers
investigated and located the body of a
male at the base of the climb. This
individual, Eric Klimt, 36, was wearing
a harness and climbing shoes, and he
0 2595
had a closed Grigri belay device
 Rappel Error – Inadequate Anchor Knot2017
Colorado,InRaggeds Wilderness,
early January, two Dark Canyon
Colorado ice
climbers began their third first ascent
of the day in the Dark Canyon, 25
miles south of Redstone in the
Raggeds Wilderness. Duane Raleigh
(age 56, with 43 years of experience)
was leading the first pitch of the WI3+
M4 route. Due to thin ice, the only
0 2596
protection he placed on the 230-foot
Rappel Error – Uneven Ropes, No Stopper
2017Knots On
Oregon, Smith Rock,
November 21, a Cocaine Gully
31-year-old,
moderately experienced climber had
finished Deep Impact (5.10c), an 80-
foot sport climb. She planned to
rappel from the anchor. She
established the rappel and started
down, but 25 feet above the ground
she rappelled off the end of one
0 2597
strand of the rope. The climber fell to
Rappel Failure – Inadequate Knot Washington,
2017 MethowAbout Valley,
3:30 p.m.Goat
onWall,
May Prime Rib of Goat
3, Ryan
Kautz, 26, was rigging a rappel off
Prime Rib of Goat, a multi-pitch 5.9
bolted route, with new 70-meter,
9.5mm ropes. He and his two partners
had seen a storm coming in and
decided to descend after climbing
eight of the 11 pitches. One of the
0 2598
partners had managed the ropes on
Rockfall – Poor Position North Carolina,
2017
Pisgah National Forest,
During July, anCatheys Creek
organized group was
climbing at Catheys Creek when it
began to rain. The group leader
moved the students under the shelter
of an overhang. While waiting for the
rain to stop, one of the teenage
students reached up and grabbed a
rock at head height to do a pull-up.
0 2599
The rock broke and came down on
Sliding Fall Before Roping Up New Hampshire,
2017 Mt. Washington, Huntington's
At approximately 12:10 p.m.Ravine
on
Sunday, February 7, one member of a
climbing party of three slipped while
approaching a technical snow and ice
climb in Huntington Ravine. The
climber rapidly gained speed on the
35–40° snow slope beneath Central
Gully and tumbled into the rocks
0 2600
below, sustaining non-life-threatening
Stranded in Mid-Air – Off-Route Rappel2017
Oregon, On
Smith Rock,
June 22, Monkey
CorderoFace
Chavez (29)
and Tyler Coleman (age unknown)
climbed the Monkey Face spire via
the Pioneer Route (5.7 C0). Upon
completion of the climb, the pair failed
to identify the correct descent route.
With their two ropes tied together,
Coleman rappelled off the west side.
1 2601
(The standard rappel route is to the
 Stranded – Inexperience, Darkness North2017
Carolina,
On Linville Gorge17,
September Wilderness, The Amphitheater
four climbers set
off to attempt the Prow (5.4), a classic
three- or four-pitch route in the
Amphitheater. All four had significant
gym climbing experience. However,
this would be their first time climbing
outdoors on a multi-pitch trad route.
The four divided into two teams, with
0 2602
the first starting up the route at
Stranded – Inexperience, Off Route Wyoming,
2017 Grand Teton,
Climber Exum Ridge male) and
1 (24-year-old
Climber 2 (27-year-old female) each
had been climbing for about two
years. They had limited alpine
experience, and this was their first
climb together. On July 3 they went to
Jenny Lake Ranger Station for
information. Their initial plan had been
1 2603
to climb the North Ridge of the Grand
Stranded – Suspected Altitude Illness Colorado,
2017 Rocky MountainJune
On Thursday, National Park,
2, 10 Longs Peak
soldiers
from Fort Carson in Colorado Springs
attempted to climb Kiener’s Route on
the northeast face of 14,259-foot
Longs Peak. The soldiers, part of the
10th Special Forces Group, were
engaged in a mountaineering
exercise. Kiener’s Route is a long
0 2604
snow and mixed climb, with the most
Failure to Self-Arrest Wyoming, Grand 2017
Teton National Park, Middle1:18
At approximately Tetonp.m. on July
24, Teton Interagency Dispatch
Center received a call from a group of
20 hikers that had summited the
Middle Teton and were descending
the South Fork of Garnet Canyon.
The caller reported that a 25-year-old
female member of their group had
0 2607
fallen on snow, slid into rocks, cut her
Fall on Rock – Exceeding Abilities, Inadequate
2017 belay California,
On August 15,Sierra
2015,Nevada, Split Mountain
at approximately
4 p.m., Tony M. (37), an experienced
traditional and alpine climber, fell
approximately 20 feet on the east
arête of the north summit of Split
Mountain (14,058 feet) in the
Palisades region. He and his partner,
Paul R. (46), a new climber with only
0 2608
one year of sport climbing experience,
Fatal Tie-in Error in Maple Canyon Utah,
2017
Maple Canyon
On July 23, an experienced climber
died after falling to the ground from
the anchor of a sport climb. We did
not receive a firsthand report, but an
online analysis from a close friend
who was belaying at the time stated
that the climber was likely distracted
after passing the rope through the
0 2609
anchor chains. It is believed she
 Fatality on Crestone Needle Colorado, Sangre
2017 de Cristo Mountains,55-year-old
An experienced Crestone Needle
mountaineer died in a 100-foot fall
from 14,197-foot Crestone Needle in
the Sangre de Cristos on July 9.
Although he had climbed the peak at
least twice, he and his team got off
route and into more difficult terrain
during their descent. Later the same
0 2610
month, Custer County SAR rescued
Fifty-Foot Ledge Fall – Climbing Unroped2017Wyoming,
On theWind Rivers,ofCirque
morning Augustof 26,
the Towers,
I Sharks Nose
launched from the Big Sandy
Trailhead to attempt a Cirque of the
Towers traverse in a day. (This route
links eight peaks with 5.6 to 5.8
climbing and extensive scrambling
and hiking.) I had completed the
traverse in one day, car to car, in
0 2611
2013, and I was familiar with all
Ground Fall – Inadequate Protection Colorado,
2017 Eldorado Canyon,climber
A 24-year-old Anthill fell
Direct
at least 70
feet to the ground at Redgarden Wall
on April 9, sustaining significant
injuries. The 5.8 variation he was
attempting has a PG-13 hazard rating.
A complete report was not available,
but witnesses said the fall pulled out
two of Black Diamond’s smallest cams
0 2612
(the 0.1 and 0.2 Camalot X4,
Leader Fall and Lost Gear Lead to Stranding
2017 Wyoming, Grand9,Teton,
On August Petzoldt Ridge
at approximately 4:15
p.m., ranger Schuster received a
transferred cell phone call from a
climbing party on the Lower Exum
Ridge of the Grand Teton. The caller
stated that he was in visual and voice
contact with two climbers on the
Petzoldt Ridge, one of whom had
1 2613
taken a 25-foot fall but was not
Leader Fall – Inadequate Protection for 2017
Wide Crack Wyoming,
A climber Vedauwoo,
with less than Nautilus
three years of
experience attempted Mother I (5.7+
wide crack) with limited appropriately
sized protection, which required
bumping pieces up the crack as he
ascended. The climber placed cams
at 10 feet, 45 feet, and 60 feet, and he
was in the process of moving up the
0 2614
highest cam (above him at the time)
Rappel Error – No Backup Wyoming, Devils2017 Tower
As she prepared to rappel the
Durrance Route’s approach pitch, an
experienced, 56-year-old climber
decided to partially coil the ropes and
carry them with her as she
descended, so she could avoid
knocking rocks on people below.
During her rappel, the coils became
0 2615
tangled. She stopped at a small
 result
completely the up-track
uselessand descent
for fall route
protection.
were
With only strategically
five meters made on theit also
of rope,
opposite
was nearly side of the for
useless glacier.
descending, (This was
the
evenone factor
if he had that found probably
an adequate averted
total
anchor disaster,
to rappel because
from. the main
Rappel Error – Water Knot in Anchor Tether
2017 Came funnel
The
OnUntied
In July
2016 ofat
Falling the atavalanche
Ice
Wyoming,
23,the Glacier
about
Mohonk Grand ismissed
10:30 a.m.,us.
situated
Teton,
Preserve in a
Owen-Spalding
an
... Rappe
Our
narrow group
individual
Two climbers was
hanging caught
highsustainedcanyon,
on the Grand in the
and
multiple leftmost
Teton is
there
fan
littleofmargin
reported
systems thetrauma
slide,
by cell looking
for errorwhilewhen
phone up.)entering
that
attempting he hadto
The
this following
area
heard a person
simul-rappel via risk
from factors
helicopter. fromThe
fallMadam were
above,
G’s landing
hit a
rappel
unsupportive
zone
ledge is crevassed
near him, of our
and
stations. Uneven ropes caused one anddecision
located
then to
continue ski
in theaof
second
rockfall
down
these into run.
zone The
ofto
Valhalla
climbers time
the Canyon
rappel of
Blackoff day,
Rockthe face
near the of
rope,
particularly
which led both climbers to drop year
Mt.
Black Moran.
Ice in
Based
Couloir.context on with
this time
climber’s
Shortlythereafter, of
(late
ranger April),
inadequate
approximatelyBellinowere 20not feetideal.
preparation,
received toan The
equipment,
theadditional
ground. A
0 2616 snowpack
skills, and history
self-reliance, was marked
as well by aa
asguide
call informing him
stopper knot on both ends of that a working the
Shawangunks simul-rappel accident, fall2017
on rock, persistent
rope managementNew
disregard weak
for layer
others’ York,
deep
well-being, Mohonk
in the the Preserve
rappel line would have prevented the
snowpack
rescued
immediate (consisting
individual
cause ofreceived of accident.
this November
a citation
facets
for and
disorderly depth hoar).
conduct—creating
Stopper knots or closing the system These or
conditions
maintaining hada set
hazardous
might have helped several other up a low-
condition.
probability,
(Source:
climbers avoid high-consequence
National Park Service
traumatic injuries from
scenario
Search through
and Rescue
mistakes while rappelling most of the
Report.) or belaying
mountain
EDITOR’S
in 2016. (Source:ranges
NOTE:ofAndrew British Bajardi,
Rangers Columbia,
in Grand
0 2617 particularly
Teton Nationalthroughout
Park,
chief ranger of Mohonk Preserve.) asthe withEast most
Columbia
other SARand teams Rocky in the Mountains.
United States, The
Stranded – Cited for Creating Hazard Wyoming,
2017 Mt. Moran, Falling Ice Glacier
steep slope adjacent
do not bill people for the cost of the to our ski run,
although
rescues they not impressive,
perform. However, held
avalanche
Grand Teton potential.
and other jurisdictions
Our group discussed
occasionally have issued to a citations
significant
extent
when they the pros
feel aand cons ofegregious
climber’s
undertaking
lack of preparation or aborting a second
has created a run.
Most
hazardous of thesituation
factors above were or
for rescuers
1 2618 brought
others. up, although our confidence
Altitude Illness (HAPE and HACE)2018 collectively
Alaska, Denali,
OnWest 16,had
JuneButtress been bolstered
a 28-year-old male
regarding the persistent
climber died from suspected weakhigh layer,
based on our field
altitude pulmonary and cerebral observations.
Some
edemain(HAPE the group and were HACE) markedly
at
reserved;
approximately 17,500 feet, while for a
others were motivated
second
descending run, theincluding myself. After
West Buttress Route.
several minutes of
Reports from his teammates revealedindecision, the
group
that hecollectively
had struggled decided with to go
altitude
0 2619 ahead.
illness on previous high-altitude
Appendicitis Alaska, Denali, West 2018
Buttress On June 4, mountaineering
In situations like the one described, ranger
Dan Corn and his
where objective evidence of team assessed a
23-year-old
heightened risk is relatively low, at
male for stomach pain
the 14,200-foot
subjective factors camp.
can play The an climber
and Corn decided
important that self-evacuation
role in mitigating
to base camprisk
unnecessary wasand theaccident.
best course Err of
action, given
toward the side hisofcurrent
caution symptoms.
rather than
Later in the day
confidence. and lower on
A combination the
of fitness,
0 2620
mountain, Corn
motivational checked
factors, and in of with
course the
Avalanche British Columbia, Northern
2018Selkirks climber and found his condition had
good weather caused our group, in
deteriorated.
particular myself,At 6,700 feet on the
to overlook
important human factors that should
have weighed more heavily in the final
decision. (Source: Dr. David Urness,
D.C.)

0 2621
 Avalanche and Knee Injury Alaska,2018
Denali, West On
Buttress, Rescue Gully
the afternoon of June 16, a 28-
year-old male triggered and was
subsequently caught in an avalanche
while skiing the Rescue Gully, below
17,200-foot camp on the West
Buttress Route. During a tumbling fall
of approximately 200 feet, the skier
came to a rest atop the avalanche
0 2622
debris. However, he had lost his skis,
Belayer Pulled Into Wall – No Ground
2018Anchor British Columbia,
On October 8, Vancouver Island,
a 24-year-old Nanaimo
woman
caught her climbing partner’s fall at
the Lower Deck of the Sunnyside
climbing area. (Whether the climber
was leading or top-roping was not
clear from reports.) The belayer was
pulled forward, slamming into rock
and seriously injuring her knee.
0 2623
Rescuers hauled her to the top of the
Crevasse Fall and 15-Hour Rescue 2018
– Climbing Unroped Alaska, Denali, West
AT APPROXIMATELY Buttress
11:30 p.m. on
June 4, an unroped climber fell into a
crevasse just below the 7,800-foot
camp on the West Buttress Route.
The climber fell approximately 60 feet
before coming to rest where the
crevasse narrowed to about 12 inches
in width. Numerous rangers, guides,
0 2624
and other climbers worked for roughly
Crevasse Fall and 15-Hour 2018 CREVASSE FALL AND SHOULDER
Rescue – Climbing Unroped DISLOCATION: At approximately 5
Alaska, Denali, West Buttress a.m. on July 14, a guide called the
NPS office in Talkeetna to report that
a 33-year-old male climber had fallen
eight to ten meters into a crevasse at
7,800 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier.
The climber’s rope team was able to
0 2625
arrest the fall, but he had dislocated
Crevasse Fall – Climbing Unroped Alaska,
2018AlaskaAtRange, Denali
2:40 p.m. on May 26, Alpine
Ascents International (AAI) guide
Stuart Robertson reported that a
climber on an independent team had
fallen into a crevasse while traveling
unroped at 8,300 feet on Denali’s
West Buttress Route. Robertson and
fellow AAI guide Michael Hutchins
0 2626
extracted the verbally responsive
Deadly Rockfall Yosemite Valley, 2018
El Capitan On the afternoons of September 27
and 28, a series of rockfalls occurred
on the far right side of El Capitan,
near the line of Horsetail Fall. The
initial rockfall on September 27 struck
two climbers who were walking along
the base of the cliff after retreating
from the East Buttress route. One of
0 2627
the climbers, Andrew Foster, 32, from
 Fall from Anchor – Communication Problems
2018 Colorado, Durango Area,
THAD FERRELL AND Lemon Reservoir
I ARRIVED at
Lemon Reservoir in the upper Florida
River Valley, near Durango, around 8
a.m. on September 9. It’s a short hike
in, about 15 minutes, followed by a
20-foot downclimb into the canyon.
We climbed three warm-up routes, all
sport climbs. I led each of the routes
0 2628
first, followed by Thad. At the top of
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection,
2018
Fatigue California,
The period Yosemite Valley,
from May El Capitan
11–19 delivered
a mix of spring weather to Yosemite.
Cameron Brown (age 41) and I
(Stephen Shostek, age 59)
experienced sun, rain, snow, and cold
weather during our Salathé Wall
climb. We sheltered for two days in
the Alcove (pitch 20) during a storm.
0 2629
Our climb was slower and longer than
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection,
2018
Inexperience
MyBritish Columbia,
climbing Squamish,
partner, Stawamus
Scott, and I were Chief
first responders to an accident high on
the Chief on September 7. We had
climbed Rock On and planned to
continue up the Squamish Buttress
(mostly 5.6 with one 5.10c pitch;
about six more pitches). At the top of
Rock On, we met two climbers (Franz
1 2630
and Mitch, both in their early 20s),
Fall on Rock – Speed Climbing, Inadequate
2018 Protection California,
On October 11,Yosemite Valley,
Quinn Brett El Capitan
(female,
30s) was attempting a Nose in a Day
ascent with Josie McKee when she
took a very long fall while leading the
right side of the Boot Flake. The two
women were using speed-climbing
tactics: Brett was effectively roped
soloing while McKee ascended a
0 2631
portion of their rope that had been
Fatal Slip on Ice – Inadequate Equipment
2018 Canada,On British
July Columbia,
15, TP andGlacier Nationalthe
AM climbed Park, Mt. Sir Donald
classic northwest ridge of Mt. Sir
Donald. On the summit they met
another pair of climbers and decided
to descend together via the West
Face Bypass route. As the group
made their way down, they had to
cross a few snow patches. Around
0 2633
10:15 a.m., TP started to cross a
Ground Fall from Anchor – Miscommunication
2018 Vermont, Lower West Bolton
AT APPROXIMATELY 6 p.m. on
September 16, I responded to the
report of a fatal rock climbing accident
at the Lower West Bolton climbing
area. I was directed to anambulance
where the two subjects who had been
climbing with the deceased (20-year-
old Rebecca Ryan, “RR”) were
0 2636
waiting. I briefly interviewed LK (19) to
 Ground Fall – Inadequate Protection Nevada,
2018 Rock RockAND
PAUL National Conservation
I had been climbingArea,
atCalico Basin
Red Rock for about a week. On
February 7, after a windy rest day, we
decided to take it easy and stay close
to the ground. We chose the Red
Spring area of Calico Basin because
we figured it would be somewhat
sheltered if the wind decided to kick
0 2638
up again.
Ground Fall – Protection Pulled Out
2018
California, South Lake (5.9),
The Line Tahoe,aLover's
popularLeap
traditional
route, has been on my tick list for a
couple of years. There’s normally a
conga line of climbers at the base, so
my partner, Ben (30) and I (30) woke
early on July 2 to make sure we were
the first ones on the route. I had been
climbing a lot, so I was confident that
0 2639
the route would be well within my
Ground Fall – Protection Pulled Out West
2018
Virginia,
OnNewthe River Gorge,
morning Endless Wall,
of October Fantasy Area
28, and
with rain forecasted to begin by
midday, my girlfriend, Liza
Mindemann (age 33), and I (Sam
Janis, age 39) decided to get an early
start on our third day of a two-week
climbing road trip. We were eager to
get back out there before the rain and
0 2640
cold arrived, as the weather was
Ledge Fall – Inadequate Protection West2018
Virginia,On
NewtheRiver Gorge,ofFern
afternoon JuneButtress
3, a male
climber (age unknown) was
attempting to lead the route Ritz
Cracker, a 5.9 trad climb at the Fern
Buttress area. According to a National
Park Service report, the climber fell
above his last piece of gear and
impacted with the prominent ledge
0 2643
about halfway up the route, injuring an
Lowering Error – Rope Too Short for
2018
Climb California,
On theSouth Lake Tahoe,
afternoon Sugarloaf
of December 22,
Nicholas C. (29) led Dominion, a
5.10a crack. After pulling the crux and
moving through 30 feet of easy 5th-
class terrain, Nicholas reached a set
of bolted anchors and rigged to lower.
He asked his belayer, Robert H. (52),
for tension and began to descend. At
0 2644
approximately 40 feet above the
Lowering Error – Rope Too Short, 2018
Inattention Canada,
June Alberta,
18 was Banff
a busyNational
day at Park, Lake Louise
the Back
of the Lake. We were a group of
seven; everyone knew each other, but
not everyone had climbed together.
Everyone was a physically strong
climber, which may have led to a
sense of complacency.
Several of the climbers decided to link
0 2645
Public Enemy into Bloodsport (5.11-)
after seeing another party do the
same. The other party said the
 Lowering Error – Inexperience California,
2018Mammoth Lakes,
On July 25,Clark Canyon,
as he Area 13 to
was preparing
lower from a ledge, a climber fell
about 15 meters to the ground. The
climber was a member of a three-
person team attempting a “mock
multi-pitch climb” in preparation for a
real multi-pitch objective later in the
week. Climber 1 (male, age unknown,
0 2646
with moderate experience) conducted
Off Route Rappel on the Nose California,
2018 Yosemite OnValley, El Capitan
the night of May 15, around
midnight, two climbers (male and
female, both in their 30s) reported
they were stranded on a ledge below
Dolt Tower on El Capitan. The
climbers had attempted an alpine-
style ascent of the Nose, bivying once
at El Cap Tower. Moving more slowly
1 2650
than expected, and with a storm
Rappel Anchor Failure Canada, Alberta,
2018 Little Sister
On July 22 a party reached the
summit of Little Sister via the Grassi
Route (northeast buttress) late in the
day and chose to descend the way
they’d come up because they were
familiar with the terrain. During their
descent, the climbers set up a rappel
from a rock horn. After inspecting the
0 2651
slings in place around the horn, the
Rappel Anchor Failure – Trusting Old Gear
2018Utah,ItZion
wasNational
May 22,Park, Cerberus
my fourth dayWall
living on
the outskirts of Zion National Park. I
had moved there for a summer job
and was taking every opportunity to
climb. That evening, my climbing
partner and I took the park shuttle to
Cerberus Wall. My partner jumped on
the local classic Cherry Crack (5.10c),
0 2652
led it comfortably, and I followed to
Rappel Error – No Backup, No Helmet
2018California,AtYosemite
6:59 p.m.Valley, Glacier
on June 10, Point Apron
Yosemite
dispatch received a report that a
climber had rappelled off the end of
her rope while descending Harry
Daley (2 pitches, 5.8). Barbara (mid-
30s, not her real name) was now on
top of the fourth-class pinnacle that
marks the start of the climb. By the
0 2653
time YOSAR arrived on scene,
Rappel Error – Uneven Ropes, No Stopper
2018Knots At
West Virginia,
7:15 p.m. on New
JulyRiver
15, aGorge, Endless Wall, Fern Po
22-year-old
male climber rappelled off one of the
ends of his rope while descending
from S’more Energy (5.11c) on the
Party Buttress. He fell approximately
40 feet and landed primarily on his
feet, suffering multiple injuries. He
was treated and evacuated by NPS
0 2654
rangers and local rescue personnel,
 Rappel Error – Uneven Ropes, No Stopper
2018Knots At
West Virginia, New5:30
approximately River Gorge,
p.m. Junkyard Area
on March
25, a 25-year-old male climber set up
a rappel at the bolted anchors of
Frigidator Crack (5.10b) and began to
descend. Approximately halfway
down, the climber rappelled off the
end of one of the strands of his 60-
meter rope and fell 30 to 40 feet to the
0 2655
ground. The climber suffered
Rappel Error – Burned Hands Canada,
2018Alberta, Banff National23,
On August Park,
twoMt. St. Bride
climbers were
attempting the southeast ridge of Mt.
St. Bride, near Lake Louise. To gain
the base of the route, climbers must
do a 45-meter overhanging rappel.
The first climber successfully
rappelled and moved off to the side to
perform a fireman’s belay. The
0 2656
second climber came down partway,
Rockfall British Columbia, Yoho National
2018 Park, Mt.On Hungabee
September 3, a four-person team
ascended the west ridge of Mt.
Hungabee after a high bivouac the
previous night. During the descent,
one team member was struck on the
helmet by a large rock while he was
attached to an anchor. The climber
had been leaning into the rock, face
0 2657
forward, to gain shelter from rockfall.
Rockfall Canada, Alberta, Mt. Lefroy,
2018Fuhrmann On
Ledges
July 16, a guided party of three
was ascending the Fuhrmann Ledges
route to Abbot Pass Hut. They had to
make an exposed traverse under a
large gully near the base of the
northwest face of Mt. Lefroy in order
to access the ledge that crosses the
face. The group agreed on a plan to
0 2658
jump to the right (away from the gully)
Shoulder Injury During Self-Arrest2018
Alaska, Denali,
OnWest
JuneButtress
21, a 58-year-old male
climber injured his right shoulder
during a self-arrest to stop a roped
teammate’s sliding fall on the ridge
above 16,200 feet on the West
Buttress Route. At 14,200-foot camp,
the patient was examined and the
shoulder determined to be unusable
0 2661
for a safe descent on foot. The patient
Snow Blindness Alaska, Denali, Cassin
2018 Ridge On the evening of June 11,
mountaineering rangers Melis Coady,
Dave Weber, and Mark Westman
responded to a 24-year-old male
climber suffering from snow blindness
at 14,200-foot camp. The climber had
summited Denali via the Cassin Ridge
one day earlier. The climb had been
0 2662
completed in poor weather with high
 Stranded – Failure to Rappel, Inexperience
2018 California, Yosemite
On March 3, atValley, Royaltwo
8:24 p.m., Arches
male
climbers (both in their early 20s)
reported they were stranded partway
up the Royal Arches route
(approximately 15 pitches, 5.7 C0).
The climbers had moved slower than
expected, and, with a storm
approaching, they decided to rappel
1 2663
the route with a single rope after the
Stranded – Off-Route Canada, British
2018Columbia, Yoho National Park,
Two climbers were Chancellor
attemptingPeak
the
west ridge of Chancellor Peak (3,266
meters) on July 24. They were
expecting low fifth-class climbing and
instead encountered what felt like 5.8
or 5.9, with little protection, on poor
rock. The two simul-climbed an
estimated 10 to 12 pitches along the
1 2664
ridge until they got to a steep section
Tumbling Boulder Injures Belayer Utah,2018
Moab Area, Day Canyon
On October 11, four climbers and I
were cragging in Day Canyon. After
warming up on a nearby climb, my
partner and I threw our rope down in
front of Boognish Tower, a 100-foot
chimney climb (5.10-). I tied in on the
follower's end and started to belay my
partner. I was standing next to a
0 2665
washing machine–size boulder that
Fall on Rock – Communication Error,
2018Taken Off Belay Colorado,
On August Boulder
5, I and Canyon, The Dome
another
emergency physician witnessed a
horrific fall from the Dome. We were
scouting locations for an upcoming
practice session, as we both volunteer
for Rocky Mountain Rescue Group. I
saw the climber bounce several times,
then fall out of sight. I called 911 to
0 2666
report an estimated 60- to 70-foot fall
Fall on Rock – Failure to Clip Anchor
2018Colorado, Eldorado
On May Canyon
12, 27-year-old Conor
Felletter and his climbing partner,
Kelly Kochanski, were climbing Werk
Supp, a two-pitch 5.9 route. After
completing the first pitch, Felletter
decided to head over to the Bastille
Crack, a popular five-pitch 5.7 that
already had another party on it. He
0 2667
climbed an easy gully for 80 feet to
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection
2018
California, Yosemite
In October,Valley,
AlexHalf
DoriaDome
was injured in
a long fall on the third pitch of the
Regular Northwest Face on Half
Dome. Doria had made a substantial
runout to a stance near the end of the
5.8 pitch and was preparing to place a
piece when he lost his balance and
fell. He broke his L1 vertebra and
0 2668
bones in his foot and wrist. His
 and success, I decided to make the
move. I reached with my left hand
onto a positive but greasy hold, and
as my weight transferred onto it I fell.
The slack in the rope from the
Fatal Fall, Possible Rappel Error California,
2018 Yosemite Valley,
On November
traverse andFifi Buttress
17
excess twodown
friendsat oftheNiels
Tietzeresulted
belay hiked tointhe base
a fall of of
10Fifito 12 feet,
Buttress
past to lookand
the ledge for onto
their anoverdue
outwardly
friend. The
curved rocktwo justknew
below. thatMyTietze had
right foot
beenthe
took up complete
on the formation,
force of working
the fall. to
establish
With the helpa new of route, and had
my partners, whobeen
doing so alone, using
piggybacked me much of the way, fixed lines andwe
self-belay techniques. It
made it back to the parking lot. The was late in
0 2669
the
nextseason
day, I was and diagnosed
he was most with likely
a
Fatal Rappel Error Colorado, Shelf2018
Road A 27-year-old man died after falling
fractured right talus that required
about 60 feet to the ground at the
surgery, leaving me with a five-inch
Bank sector of Shelf Road, near
incision, two screws, and one plate to
Cañon City. The climber had limited
stabilize the fractured pieces of my
outdoor experience, and witnesses
ankle.
reported that he fell from the anchor
ANALYSIS
atop a limestone sport climb after
As a novice leader, I was naive when
incorrectly threading or clipping his
0 2670 it came to observing fall lines, the
rappel device to descend.
Ground Fall – Protection Pulled Out2018 risks
Colorado, Eldorado involved
On March 27, in
Canyon, roofsDhungana
Rincon
Japhy and ledges,
Wall and
(32),
the effects of the
Eric Whewell, and Rainbow warmer weather. I
was also insecure
Weinstock when itatcame
were climbing the to
voicing my concerns
Rincon Wall, projecting to my belay
single-pitch
partner when routes.
trad-climbing it was crucial
All three to doareso.very
Plus, my belayer
experienced was distracted
climbers; each is an
during a crucial part
AMGA-certified rock of my climb.
guide. Each The
belayer should always
person had a separate project he be “with me,”was
0 2672 with eyes focused on my climb and
working in “headpoint” style. It was
Ground Fall – Protection Pulled Out2018
Colorado, Eldorado Canyon,
In January
assessing West his/her
a climber
risk from Ridge
hit the viewpoint.
ground
when
In a key none
addition, protection
of us piece
had a pulled
first-aid out
of Foxtrot
kit. A helpful(5.11d)
climber on offered
the West meRidge
some
after a fall. The climber,
anti-inflammatory medicine whobefore
was not we
wearing
hiked a helmet,
out, but having hadNSAIDs
a head of our
laceration.
own A similar
and splinting accident
supplies wouldoccurred
have
the previous year on
been helpful. (Source: Sarah the same climb.
– The Editors
Trudeau.)
0 2673
Editor’s note: Falling is a part of sport
Leader Fall – Inexperience, Inadequate
2018Belay California, Santa Monica Mountains, Echo Cliff
climbing and is a learned skill. Though
it might not have prevented this injury,
practicing short leader falls in a safe
environment (such as a gym), with an
experienced mentor, can help novice
climbers learn to take relaxed falls
with feet and legs prepared to absorb
0 2675 impacts.
Ledge Fall – Off-Route, Inadequate2018
Protection Colorado,
On AugustEstes20, Park Area, Fridberg
Anders The Crags,and Sharksfin
I
(both very experienced) were climbing
Blood in the Water, a three-pitch route
on the north face of Sharksfin, south
of Estes Park. Little did we realize the
route’s name would have some
additional significance that day.
Anders led the second, crux pitch,
0 2676
which is gear-protected and 5.10+.
The pitch is divided into two sections
by a broad ledge. Above the ledge,
 Lowering Error – Belayer Pulled Into
2018
Rock, No Helmet Colorado, 13
On September Boulder Canyon,
a belayer Cascade Crag
began
lowering a climber from a sport route
with an ATC Guide device. The
climber outweighed the belayer by
roughly 50 percent. The belayer,
standing on unstable rocky ground
about six to eight feet away from the
wall, was pulled off balance during the
0 2677
lower. She spun to the left and fell
Lowering Error – Rope Too Short Colorado,
2018 South Platte
This Region,occurred
accident Devils Head
after a climber
completed a long route (Sex Face,
5.12a) during which he linked two
pitches from the ground. While
descending from the top of the
second pitch, the climber was lowered
off the end of the rope, resulting in a
ground fall of approximately 25 feet.
0 2678
The climber landed on his back on
Rappel Error – Anchor Failure, Inadequate
2018 Communication
On Augustand 6, Teamwork
a party of California,
two was High Sierra, Palisad
descending from Starlight Peak
(14,200 feet) after climbing the
Starlight Buttress route. Both climbers
were experienced but unfamiliar with
this particular area. They had planned
to descend the northwest ridge to the
Underhill Couloir between Starlight
0 2679
and Thunderbolt Peaks and then to
Rappel Error – Rappelled Off End of
2018
Rope in Storm
MyCalifornia, Yosemite
climbing partner National
and I werePark, Matthes Crest
attempting to climb Tenaya Peak,
Matthes Crest, and Cathedral Peak—
three long but moderate routes in the
Tuolumne Meadows area—in a day.
Because of the sheer amount of
climbing and distance we would need
to travel, we packed light, opting not
0 2680
to carry any warm or waterproof
Rockfall – Overcrowding, Inexperience,
2018 Anchor Failure California,
On Friday, August Yosemite
25, fiveNational
climbersPark, Cathedral Pea
left the Bay Area with the goal of
climbing Cathedral Peak. The team
consisted of two experienced climbers
(Ben and Nate) and three with little to
no experience outside of the gym
(Megan, Erin, and Andrew). All
climbers were in their mid-20s. Ben
0 2681
and Nate each had seven to ten years
Roped-Soloing Fall – Protection Pulled
2018Out California,
On the Yosemite
morningValley, El Capitan
of December 2, I
started up the first pitch of Zodiac (5.9
A3) on El Capitan. I was roped soloing
and planning for three or four days on
the wall. I had led this first pitch two
other times.
I climbed the pitch clean (no pitons,
C3+) and was about 10 feet from the
0 2683
anchor, underneath a small roof,
when the small offset nut I was
 2E+07 FALL ON ROCK | Loose Rock Lake Cl2019 Four climbers set out to explore the little-
known Hidden Mountains in Lake Clark
National Park in June. Their goal was to
make first ascents of peaks in this remote
region by climbing rock routes in single-
push style. The day of the accident, the
climbers had split into two parties, opting
to climb neighboring ridgelines on the
0 same peak. With a two-day window of
stable weather, they each planned to
2E+07 LEADER FALL ON ICE Denali Nationa2019 At 9:42 a.m. on April 14, rangers were
notified about an injured climber by a
local air taxi service that had received a
text from the climbing team’s Garmin
inReach device. The team of three
reported that one climber had broken his
right leg while attempting a new route on
the west face of West Kahiltna Peak, at
0 approximately 9,600 feet. Subsequent
text messages confirmed that the 34-
2E+07 AVALANCHE | Proceeded Despite Haz
2019 In the early afternoon on May 3, a group
of three ski mountaineers departed their
base camp in the west fork of the Ruth
Glacier. This was the first day of clearing
following a storm that had lasted more
than a week. Their objective was to climb
and then ski an east-facing couloir on
Denali’s Reality Ridge. According to
0 interviews with the team, as the skiers
neared the top of the couloir, they began
2E+07 FALL ON SNOW | Inadequate Protect
2019 Two climbers were ascending Denali’s
West Buttress at approximately 16,500
feet when they fell off the north side of
the ridge (opposite the well-traveled
route from the 14,200-foot camp). The
fall occurred at 3:30 p.m. on May 20. The
29-year-old female and 27-year-old male
climbers were roped together at the time
0 of the fall,
but with hard surface snow conditions
2E+07 AVALANCHE Denali National Park, 2019 On
andMay 20, Britt
without Ruegger, 34,
any protection and I (age
clipped
29) were climbing the Mini-Moonflower
between them, they were unable to
Route whenfall.
arrest their a debris
They avalanche swept
slid about 1,000
the route and hit us as we were
rappelling. We’d arrived at KIA (Kahiltna
International Airport) on May 8 and
proceeded to log some tent time during
mixed weather. We climbed the first
0 three or four pitches of the Mini-
Moonflower on May 14 but bailed due to
2E+07 SEVERE ALTITUDE ILLNESS | First of2019 On June 25, a 59-year-old male from a
guided expedition descended from
17,200- foot camp with high altitude
pulmonary edema (HAPE). This climber
had spent two nights at that elevation
until his shortness of breath and wet lung
sounds became overwhelming. After a
night of treatment and monitoring at
0 14,200-foot camp, the patient was able
to self-evacuate with his team on June
 2E+07 SEVERE ALTITUDE ILLNESS | Second2019 ...Conversely, on May 22, a 40-year-old
male who began experiencing signs and
symptoms of severe altitude illness still
continued his ascent to 14,200-foot
camp. The patient reported to
teammates that he was experiencing
shortness of breath at rest, a productive
cough, and a severe headache. Once at
0 14,200-foot camp, the climber continued
to deteriorate throughout the night.
2E+07 SEVERE ALTITUDE ILLNESS | HAPE an
2019 At 10:06 p.m. on June 1, NPS rangers
were notified via Garmin inReach that a
climber near the summit ridge appeared
to be suffering from severe altitude
illness. Other climbers in the vicinity had
administered two doses of
dexamethasone, a steroid used to treat
HACE, in hopes the climber could
0 continue his descent. The severity of the
patient’s condition made a ground rescue
2E+07 ALTITUDE-RELATED EVACUATION A2019 In addition to the altitude illness cases
described above, a 47-year-old male
climber was evacuated from 17,200-foot
camp on May 31 with signs and
symptoms of both HAPE and HACE. The
team reported that they had ascended to
that high camp from base camp (7,200
feet) in only four days. A gradual ascent
0 profile is key in the prevention of all
types of altitude illness.
2E+07 FALL ON SKIS | Skiing With Loaded2019
S On the evening of June 3, two climbers
were descending toward base camp on
skis. One of the climbers fell after being
pulled to the side by his gear sled. The
51-year-old climber reported feeling and
hearing a popping sensation in his left
knee during the fall. The two were able
to continue their descent to 7,800-foot
0 camp, about 5.5 miles away from
Kahiltna base, before the swelling and
2E+07 FROSTBITE Denali National Park, De2019 On June 4, a guided group summited
Denali via the West Buttress climbing
route. The lead guide reported that
“...temperatures were between -10°F
and -20°F. Once above Denali Pass, winds
were estimated at a consistent 15 to 20
mph, with occasional gusts of 25 to 30
mph.” These observations were
0 consistent with other climber and NPS
ranger reports that day. At 10 p.m., the
2E+07 CARBON MONOXIDE POISONING Denal
2019 On the evening of June 6, NPS rangers
were alerted about a climber who was
unresponsive and experiencing seizures
in 14,200-foot camp. This 40-year-old
male had been pulled from his tent when
his climbing partner found him
experiencing seizures while cooking in
their tent during a storm. The responding
0 mountaineering ranger and his team
found the patient was initially responsive
 2E+07 ROCKFALL | Impacted by Tumbling2019 On May 12, I (female, age 35) was
scrambling up Mt. Skarland (10,315 feet)
in the east- ern Hayes Range when a
boulder, approximately two feet in
diameter, was dislodged by a climber
above and struck my left hand. I suffered
a hemorrhaging crush injury and near
complete avulsion of the hand, which
0 necessitated applying a tourniquet in the
field. I was climbing with four alpinists—
2E+07 FATAL FALL DURING DESCENT Juneau
2019 On March 5, in early afternoon, Ryan
Johnson and Marc-André Leclerc reached
the summit of the Main Tower (6,910’) in
the Mendenhall Towers massif, after
complet- ing the first ascent of the north
face. The pair started down the east
ridge and then began rappelling the
Fourth Gully, a steep cleft leading down
0 to the glacier to the north. During this
descent, an unknown event caused the
2E+07 LEDGE FALL | Failure to Clip Bolt, I 2019 In the early afternoon on April 12, Person
1 (female, age 23) fell about 30 feet while
leading Sunshine Daydream, a 5.7 sport
climb at the Pit. Person 1 had ascended
approximately 20 feet to a small ledge
and then continued up. She was
attempting to clip the third bolt above
the ledge, and the belayer had paid out
0 slack for Person 1 to make the clip, when
she lost her grip and fell approximately
2E+07 GROUND FALL | Inadequate Equipmen
2019 On September 9, at 1:20 p.m., Coconino
County Sheriff’s Office and other
agencies responded to a report of a 12-
year-old male, Person 1, who took a 20-
foot ground fall while lead climbing.
Upon arrival, responders found Person 1
at the base of Micro- wave, a short 5.11
sport climb. He had lost consciousness
0 for approximately one minute and had
shown decorticate posturing immediately
2E+07 RAPPEL ERROR | Uneven Ropes, No2019 On July 2 a climber took a 15- to 20-foot
ground fall while on rappel at the Oak
Creek Canyon overlook. The climber
sustained a back injury. The climber was
rappelling approximately 75 feet from
the top of the cliff to the start of the
route Burnt Buns (5.8). Prior to the
rappel, he did not ensure that both rope
0 ends were even or on the ground. When
he was approximately 20 feet above the
2E+07 FALL FROM ANCHOR | Inadequate 2019
An On November 10, person 1 (female, 34)
fell 40 to 60 feet from the top of the Oak
Creek Vista overlook to the rocky trail
below, suffering numerous serious
injuries. An unaffiliated witness stated
that he observed her climb to the top of
the wall and then move the rope to
another anchor to prepare a different
0 line for climbing. The witness observed
that this second anchor was a rope or
 2E+07 GROUND FALL | Protection Pulled 2019 On November 28, a male climber, DS
(21), was leading Succubus, a 5.10 trad
finger crack. The crux of the climb is
approximately 25 feet up, where you
move right under a roof to reach a finger
crack. DS placed what he felt was a solid
0.5 Black Diamond C4 and 0.1 Black
Diamond X4 under the roof, then
0 reached around the roof to place an
insecure 0.3 C4 before committing to the
2E+07 #1 MT. SHASTA ANNUAL SUMMARY
2019
Mt. On May 12, a female climber, age 32, fell
and slid a reported 1,000 feet in
Avalanche Gulch after lunging for a
dropped cell phone to prevent it from
sliding down the steep, firm slope. She
suffered a fractured ankle and multiple
scrapes and bruises. She was wearing
crampons and had an ice axe. Gale-force
0 winds and strong downdrafts on the
mountain prevented a helicopter rescue,
2E+07 #2 MT. SHASTA ANNUAL SUMMARY
2019
Mt. On May 14, a 65-year-old male climber
was struck in the head by rockfall while
descending Avalanche Gulch near the
Heart. He had been wearing a helmet,
but had taken it off to adjust the
headband or liner when he was hit. The
climber momentarily lost consciousness
but was able to self-rescue. He suffered a
0 two-inch scalp laceration to the back of
his head.
2E+07 #3 MT. SHASTA ANNUAL SUMMARY
2019
Mt An 18-year-old male attempted to
glissade down the Avalanche Gulch on
June 18 while wearing crampons. Near
the Heart, his crampons stuck in the
snow and he suffered a broken ankle.
Rangers continually attempt to educate
climbers regarding proper glissade
technique—including never glissading
0 with crampons—but each year this type
of accident still occurs.
2E+07 #4 MT. SHASTA ANNUAL SUMMARY
2019
Mt. ...A second accident on June 23 occurred
on the west face. A novice male climber
(mid-30s) fell approximately 1,500 feet
after a slip while off-route; he attempted
to self-arrest but lost control of his axe.
His fall was witnessed by a Shasta
Mountain Guides employee, who
assisted the climber after the fall. The
0 climber suffered a broken heel, a broken
small toe, a sprained ankle, and an
2E+07 #5 MT. SHASTA ANNUAL SUMMARY
2019
Mt. A 29-year-old male climber was climbing
the Avalanche Gulch route early on the
morning of June 30 when a large rock
came tumbling over the Red Banks and
struck the climber in the ankle, resulting
in a short fall. The climber was unable to
walk, and his ankle was slightly
angulated, indicating a likely ankle
0 fracture. His partners and other climbers
improvised a litter with a closed-cell
 2E+07 #6 MT. SHASTA ANNUAL SUMMARY
2019
Mt. On July 1, a 49-year-old male climber
slipped while downclimbing through Red
Banks. He fell approximately 200 feet and
sustained facial lacerations and abrasions
but no other significant injuries. He was
able to continue his descent, along with
his climbing partners, without issue.

0
2E+07 LEDGE FALL | Inadequate Protection
2019 On May 3, Hans Florine and a climbing
partner started a climb of the Nose of El
Capitan at approximately 7 a.m. Both are
highly experienced. Florine has made
over 100 ascents of the Nose and has
held the speed record on the route; his
partner had climbed El Cap multiple
times, including speed ascents of the
0 Nose with Florine. The two were planning
to do the route in 10 to 12 hours.
2E+07 LOWERING ERROR | Inexperience, 2019
N On May 7 two climbers headed to the
route Lunatic Fringe (single-pitch 5.10c).
The leader was fairly experienced (four to
five years), and the belayer had about 1.5
years of experience. The two had climbed
together the day before in the Valley.
Lunatic Fringe was at the leader’s limit
for traditional lead climbing in the area,
0 and he hung twice while on the route.
After arriving at the anchors, the leader
2E+07 STRANDED ON DESCENT | Off-Route,
2019 On two days in a row in early June,
YOSAR responded to climbers stranded
after failing to make their way down the
East Ledges descent from the top of El
Capitan, which requires a mix of
rappelling and scrambling.
The first party had climbed the East
Buttress route on June 2 and attempted
1 to follow the “Option C” descent shown
in the popular Supertopo guidebook.
2E+07 STRANDED ON DESCENT | Off-Route,
2019
Later that same day, two more East
Buttress climbers were stranded on the
East Ledges rappels. They had followed
rock cairns and a faint climbers’ trail
leading toward the edge of El Capitan. At
some point the team found a manzanita
bush with webbing and rappel rings and
1 began rappelling from that location. At
the end of the first rappel, they found
2E+07 GROUND FALLS | Inadequate Protect
2019 Around 6 a.m. on the morning of June 2,
Tim Klein, Kevin Prince, and Jason Wells
started up El Capitan with the objective
of climbing the Salathé Wall (VI 5.9 C2) in
a day. All three were very familiar with
the terrain. Klein had climbed El Capitan
108 times, Wells over 90 times, and
Prince roughly 20 times. The full team
0 had climbed together previously,
including a one-day ascent of the Salathé
 2E+07 LEADER FALL WHILE AIDING | Inexp2019 On June 30, a climber fell from the Kor
Roof (fourth pitch) on the South Face
Route (V 5.8 C1) of Washington Column.
The reporting party stated that the
climber was now on Dinner Ledge and
had an altered mental state after
sustaining head injuries. While preparing
for a possible helicopter evacuation, a
0 paramedic ranger quickly ascended fixed
lines put in place by other teams on
2E+07 FALL ON SNOW | Inexperience, Ina2019 On the morning of June 10, Inyo County
Search and Rescue was notified of an
accident involving three climbers above
Trail Camp on Mt. Whitney. At
approximately 7 a.m., climber 1 (female,
age unknown) slipped while ascending
“The Chute,” a snowfield often used as a
shortcut in early season when the main
0 route is under snow. The Chute gains
about 1,200 feet, rejoining the main trail
2E+07 TRAPPED BY TALUS BOULDER Sierra
2019 On July 29, after climbing North Peak,
Kimberly Luba and I descended to the
basin below Mt. Conness. While resting
by a small alpine lake, we heard cries for
help. We headed up the talus field under
the north ridge of Conness, following the
screams. Before long I located a 21-year-
old male, Adrien Costa, who had been
0 making a solo attempt on a direct line up
to the north ridge. At around 11,400 feet,
2E+07 FALL ON ROCK | Downclimbing Fourt
2019 At approximately 4:30 p.m. on August 26,
two climbers were descending loose 4th-
class terrain in the North Couloir of
Thunderbolt Peak when a male climber
(31) took a tumbling fall of approximately
300 feet, suffering major trauma. This
climber had belayed his partner (female,
38) down this passage and was
0 downclimbing to her when he fell. He
ended up in a low-angled scree- and
2E+07 LOWERING ERROR | Miscommunicati
2019 On October 20, at approximately 2 p.m.,
an experienced climber (male, 36) took a
long, tumbling ground fall on Vanadium
Miner’s Daughter (5.9) at the Gateway
Slabs, outside of Pratt’s Crack Canyon.
This single-pitch climb on a low-angle
slab was the party’s third route of the
day. Prior to reaching the anchor, the
0 climber asked the belayer (male, 35) if he
wanted to do the route. The belayer
2E+07 LEADER FALL ON ROCK | Loose Rock,
2019 I try to climb a first ascent on my
birthday, October 20, every year, and this
time my friends Vitaliy and Adam and I
had selected the south face of Windy
Cliff. It lies on the north side of the South
Fork of the Kings River, just outside of
Kings Canyon National Park. The rock is
marble, which can have notoriously bad
0 sections.
After a search for the best looking rock
on the cliff, Vitaliy took the first pitch,
and Adam and I followed up to a small
stance. I started hesitantly up the second
 2E+07 LOWERING ERROR | No Stopper Knot
2019 On April 28, three buddies and I set out
to climb Playin’ Hooky, a three- or four-
pitch bolted 5.8. By the time we made it
to the crag, there were two other parties
waiting to get on the same route. We
checked the book and decided to get on
the route next door: Furlough Day,
reported to be a 125-foot 5.9. I loaded up
0 on quickdraws and set off. The belay
platform was a shelf of rock about 20
2E+07 STRANDED | Stuck Rappel Ropes Cl2019 On both August 18 and October 3, the
Alpine Rescue Team responded to the
east end of the Creekside wall to assist
stranded climbers. The climbers had
started up the neighboring multi-pitch
sport routes Playin’ Hooky (5.8) and Black
Gold (5.7), and in each case they had
ended up at the final belay anchor for
1 Black Gold. In both instances, the
climbers rappelled directly from bolts set
2E+07 LEADER FALL ON ROCK | Off-Route2019 On October 20, Alex Kissinger (28) and I
(27) started up the Yellow Spur (six
pitches, 5.9+). At around 4 p.m. we
reached the top of the fourth pitch,
where the belay stance is a small,
exposed ledge no bigger than a small
nightstand table. There are two varia-
tions for the fifth pitch, according to the
0 guidebook and Mountain Project: You
can go straight up a piton/bolt ladder to
2E+07 LEAD FALL ONTO LEDGE | Protection
2019 On November 10, in very cold
temperatures, Sam Warren (20) and his
partner were rock climbing at Main Cliff
on Ragged Mountain. Sam, a 5.10 sport
climber and begin- ner trad climber, was
attempting to lead Tower Crack (5.7), an
offwidth crack in an inside corner. When
first climbed in 1935 by Fritz Wiessner,
0 Tower Crack was among the hardest rock
climbs in the country. Sam was confident,
2E+07 FALL AND AVALANCHE | Inexperienc
2019 Hao Yan, 23, had come to Idaho from the
East Coast to fight forest fires, and in
June he decided to attempt 12,662-foot
Borah Peak. Climbing solo, he started
before dawn but got lost on the
approach, and by the time he reached
the main difficulties on the northeast
ridge it was 6 p.m. A steep rock step
0 (complicated by mixed climbing in June)
bars access to the top. The climber
2E+07 FALL FROM ANCHOR | Rappel Error2019 On April 27, Seamus Hehir (26) fell
approximately 50 feet after incorrectly
setting up a rappel to clean the route
Suppress the Rage (5.12a) at Sunnyside
wall. According to his belayer, Jake
McCrary (32), Seamus hit a boulder at the
base of the climb and continued falling
down an embankment roughly 20 feet.
0 McCrary called 911 while another
member of their climbing party, a
 2E+07 FALL ON ROCK | Huge Loose Block 2019
R On June 10, Jason Harbin (47) and I (45)
climbed the Keeper (5.9), a relatively new
(2017) sport route at Camelot. We stick-
clipped the high first bolt and I led the
route with no issues. Jason (12 years of
climbing experience) opted to clean the
route on top-rope. As Jason approached
the first bolt, he pulled off an
0 approximately four- by injured.
eight-foot block (eight to 12 inches thick).
2E+07 SNAKEBITE Red River Gorge, Muir Va
2019 On
STAY October
OFF WET 6, aSANDSTONE
25-year-old female was
climbing a route at Bruise Brothers wall
in Muir Valley. Approximately 15 feet up
the route, she was bitten by a
copperhead snake after placing her hand
within a crack. Venom was received from
the bite, resulting in significant pain. The
climber was assisted back to the parking
0 area and transported via ambulance to a
local hospital.
2E+07 FALL FROM TOP OF CLIFF | Inadequat
2019 On July 9, a 23-year-old man with about
two months of climbing experience was
scout- ing for new climbs at the top of a
popular crag called Taylor’s Falls, one
hour north of Minneapolis–Saint Paul.
The climber was not wearing a harness,
helmet, or any other climbing gear when
he slipped and fell about 50 feet to the
0 rocky landing below. The fall was
witnessed by some girls who were
2E+07 STRANDED | Knee Stuck In Wide Cr2019 On August 2, a 13-year-old girl was
climbing with a camp group at Robinson
Park in Sandstone, about an hour and a
half north of Minneapolis–Saint Paul,
when she got her knee stuck in a wide
crack 40 feet above the ground. Climbers
in her group were able to secure her
from above, but were unable to free her
0 knee. After several attempts, they called
911 at about 3:30 p.m. Authorities from
2E+07 GROUND FALL | Detached Flake Re2019 At 2 p.m. on March 28, Parker Kempf (28)
dislodged a large sandstone flake
(approxi- mately three cubic feet in size)
at the overhanging start of Is It Soup Yet
(5.10b) in the Moderate Mecca area. This
resulted in a ground fall of roughly six
feet, with the detached flake landing on
his lower legs.
0 Kempf suffered an open fracture and
dislocation to the left fibula, cartilage
2E+07 LEADER FALL ON ICE | Inadequate 2P019 On February
damage 23,left
to the a local
knee,climbing guide,
and a fractured
age 64, took his client to Mt.
right tibia. His partner provided Willard, a
popu- lar area for moderate, multi-pitch
ice climbs. The weather was warm, and
by early afternoon freezing rain was
falling. At around 1 p.m., the guide short-
roped his client across a talus slope to
the base of Left Hand Monkey Wrench
0 (WI3). He placed a stubby screw on the
climb’s initial 20-foot traverse in order to
 2E+07 LONG FALL ON SNOW | Unable to Se
2019 At about 1 p.m. on February 24, a climber
took a long sliding fall while ascending
near the top of Right Gully in Tuckerman
Ravine. The subject slipped on very hard,
icy snow and was unable to self-arrest
with an ice axe. The resulting high-speed
slide was halted below the gully by
exposed bushes and rocks. The fall
0 totaled approxi- mately 300 vertical feet.
With the help of a climbing partner, the
2E+07 SLIDING FALL ON SKIS | Failure to 2019 On February
subject 25, after
was able climbing
to walk down two-thirds
to Hermit
of the way up Hillman’s Highway
Lake, from which U.S. Forest Service and not
finding a ton of good snow, our group
Snow Rangers transported the subject via
transitioned for an icy ski descent. There
was a small ribbon of wind slab on the
skiers’ right side of the slide. My two
partners sideslipped the ice to a good
point of safety. I tried the wind slab, but
0 after a few untrustworthy turns, I bailed
for the more predictable icy surface.
2E+07 MANY AVALANCHES Mt. Washington
2019 On April 7, seven avalanches occurred in
Tuckerman Ravine. All were human
triggered. At least five people were
caught in one of the avalanches.
In the week leading up to April 7, there
were two rain events. The first was
March 29–30, delivering 0.75 inch of rain,
followed by 0.32 inch of rain on April 4.
0 Both of these were followed by hard
freezes. On Friday, April 6, light snow
2E+07 ROCKFALL ON RAPPEL | Darkness, 2
H019 Rappelling the second pitch of the route
King Slut (5.11) in the Organ Mountains is
an absolute nightmare. In November, I
(male, 34) was rappelling on a single 70-
meter, 7.8mm half rope with a second
rope on my back. Before I began
navigating down a 100-foot vertical
cactus garden, I tied an autoblock and
0 knots in the end of my rope, because
objective hazards were apparent and
2E+07 LEADER FALL ON ICE | Inadequate 2p019 On December 27, at approximately 9
a.m., my brother Don Heinz (51) and I
(46) were climbing Arm and Hammer
(WI3+) with two friends. It was a cold day
(10° F), but there had been a recent
stretch of warm weather and rain. We’d
talked about canceling the trip, given the
recent weather, but decided to climb
0 anyway.
Don led the climb and headed up a 70-
2E+07 NEAR MISS | Unclipped from Anch2019 On
footOctober
section 10, three
of 50° iceclimbers finished
to the crux, a 15-
the second (last) pitch of Baby (5.6).
foot vertical section. He placed several The
leader (male, 31) was using a half-rope
screws on the low-angle start and placed
system, with each follower tied to an end
of each half rope. The leader arrived at
the bolted rappel station, clove-hitched
himself to the ring anchors using the half
ropes and two carabiners, and built a
0 master point by tying an overhand onto
the two strands of rope. This was
 2E+07 SHAWANGUNKS ANNUAL SUMMARY
2019
Mo Two climbers were injured when a top-
rope anchor system failed on Herdy
Gerdy (5.6) in the Trapps. One of the
climbers fell around 20 feet to the
ground, landing on another person sitting
at the base. The climber suffered
fractured vertebrae, and both suffered
additional minor injuries. Upon
0 inspection, Mohonk Preserve rangers
found that the climber had set up the
2E+07 SHAWANGUNKS ANNUAL SUMMARY
2019
Moh While attempting to lead Nice 5.9 in the
Trapps, a climber fell and suffered a
traumatic brain injury. The climber had
only placed two pieces of protection
during the climb, the first about ten feet
off the ground and the second at roughly
25 feet. The climber fell at the crux, and
the higher piece failed to hold, resulting
0 in an uncon- trolled fall to the ground.
The climber was wearing a hard-shell
2E+07 SHAWANGUNKS ANNUAL SUMMARY
2019
Moh A climber died after suffering multiple
systems trauma in an uncontrolled fall of
approximately 80 feet from Grand
Traverse Ledge. The climber and their
partner had just completed the first pitch
of Arrow (5.8) in the Trapps and swapped
gear on the GT Ledge. A decision was
made to build a new anchor below the
0 second pitch, which required a short walk
across the ledge. Still tied in but not
2E+07 SHAWANGUNKS ANNUAL SUMMARY
2019
Mo Another fatal fall took place in the High
Exposure area of the Trapps. The fall was
not witnessed by climbers, so the exact
climb being attempted and the cause are
unknown. Inspection by Mohonk
Preserve rangers found the climber
wearing a harness with an ATC attached,
along with a rope coiled and tied to the
0 back. This suggests the climber intended
to use the rappel stations nearby for
2E+07 SHAWANGUNKS ANNUAL SUMMARY
2019
Mo In the Peters Kill area, a climber suffered
a traumatic open fracture of the right
ankle when an accident occurred during
a top-rope lower. The climber had
completed a 5.6 route on the Bunk Bed
Wall and asked the belayer to lower him.
The belayer fed rope out before ensuring
the climber’s weight was on the system.
0 Upon leaning back, the climber fell about
15 feet before the belay held, resulting in
2E+07 SHAWANGUNKS ANNUAL SUMMARY
2019
Moho A climber suffered a traumatic brain
injury after a fall on Anguish (5.8) in the
Trapps. Starting the third pitch, the
climber fell approximately 20 feet before
the belay caught and swung the climber
into the cliff face. The climber was
unresponsive while hanging below the
belayer. The partner tied off the system
0 and contacted emergency services. Once
on the scene, rangers found the patient
 2E+07 SHAWANGUNKS ANNUAL SUMMARY
2019
Moh While leading the second pitch of
Modern Times (5.8+) in the Trapps, a
climber suffered injuries to the rib cage
during a fall. The climber was
approximately 20 feet diagonally up from
the last piece of protection, resulting in a
large pendulum swing into the cliff.
Rangers stabilized the climber’s injuries
0 and lowered them from Grand Traverse
Ledge to the ground.
2E+07 GROUND FALL | Inexperience, Inade
2019 Late in the afternoon on May 9, Dylan
Pappas (21) fell to the ground while
climbing Chicken Bone (5.8), a ten-bolt
sport route. A member of his climbing
party had led the climb before him and
left the draws in place. The third bolt was
clipped with a shortened sling (an “alpine
draw”), with which Dylan had no
0 experience. A witness stated that while
attempting to clip this draw, about 25
2E+07 FALL ON ROCK | Inexperience, No H
2019 On November 1 at approximately 2 p.m.,
my partner and I were climbing in the
Little Amphitheater when two climbers
came around the trail in a hurry and
obvious state of distress. Climber 1
(male, early 20s) was shirtless with his
hands on his head and blood streaming
down his head and face. There were
0 numerous abrasions on his torso. I
immediately lowered my climbing
2E+07 FALL ON ROCK | Protection Pulled,2019 Andrew Gatlin (24) and I, Peter Magnin
(24), hiked in to climb at the North Side
of Looking Glass Rock during the morning
of September 21. We decided to attempt
Invisible Airwaves. I started leading and
was a majority of the way up the 80-foot
first pitch (5.10c) when my foot slipped
and I fell approximately 12 to 15 feet.
0 During the fall, my right foot impacted a
small ledge about three to five feet
2E+07 GROUND FALL | Inadequate Protect
2019 Late in the afternoon on October 13, JLC
(22) fell approximately 30 feet while
leading the traditional route Breaking
Rocks Is Hard to Do (5.9). JLC stated that
he had been climbing for several years
and had led the route before. He was 15
feet above his second piece of protection
and getting ready to place a third when
0 he “lost his grip” and fell. This resulted in
a ground fall, with JLC landing on his back
2E+07 FALL ON ROCK | Inexperience, Inad2019 On Saturday, October 27, a trio of
climbers (James, Markus, and Jason), all
from the Atlanta area, arrived at the base
of the Daddy (5.6), located in the
Amphitheater. Jason (46) was a relatively
new trad climber being mentored by
James, who was the most experienced of
the three. Jason had experience in
0 climbing gyms.
Jason stated, “I took the lead on the first
pitch, since it appeared to be an easy
climb. We weren’t planning to return to
the base of Daddy, so we were carrying
 2E+07 FATAL FALL | Failure to Self-Arres 2019
0 and wore strap-on crampons on his boots
2E+07 SKI MOUNTAINEERING FALL | Failure 2019
0 upper mountain. The snow surface was
2E+07 FALL ON SNOW | Inexperience, Ina2019
0 leader of the party, had wrapped excess
Fall on Snow — Faulty Use of Crampons 2000
— Washington,
0 1014t
Fall on Snow, Loss of Control — Voluntary
2000 Glissade, Faulty Grand
0 1015aa
Edited Title: Fall on Snow, Loss of Control
2000 —Climbing
0 1015ab
On February 13, Miha Sumi, 35, lost his
footing near the summit of Mt. Hood
while descending a south side route,
resulting in a 700-foot fall. He was
equipped for a snowboard descent (soft
boots and self-arresting ski poles),
resulting in his inability to self-arrest. The
climber had an ice axe on his backpack
in difficult surface conditions (hard snow
At approximately 10 a.m. on May 26, an
experienced skier (male, 35), attempted a
ski descent of the Mazama Chute on the
upper south slopes of Mt. Hood after
reaching the summit. Following many
days of warm conditions, the night of
May 25 had been colder, with
temperatures below freezing on the
hard frozen corn—very firm and difficult
On May 28 a roped party of three
climbers was descending the Pearly
Gates at approximately 8:30 a.m. when
one climber fell, pulling the others into
an uncontrolled fall. No anchors or
running protection were being used at
the time of the fall.
The top climber (male, 50), who was the
rope around his body in a Kiwi coil
Northbut
Washington,
configuration Cascades
North National
hadCascades
failed Park,
off theMount Shuksan
to tieNational
Park, Mount Shuksan
On September 19, a group of six
Seattle Mountaineers were
descending the “Winnie’s Slide”
section of the Fisher Chimney route
on Mount Shuksan when one member
fell and arrested within ten feet.
However, he was unable to move. He
Wyoming, Use of Crampons, Inexperience
Teton National Park, — Wyoming
Mount Teewinot
On the morning of July 17, David
Berry and Andrew Baldyga departed
Yellowstone National Park and
stopped at Jenny Lake Ranger
Station to obtain climbing information
on Teewinot’s East Face route.
Ranger Randy Benham recalls talking
Wyoming, Alone, Fell Teton
Grand into Moat — Wyoming,
National Park, Grand Teton
Mount Teewinot
...
(Editor’s Note: There was another
accident on the East Face route
involving a fall on snow near an area
known as The Idol and Worshiper.
John Pagendarm, who was climbing
alone, lost his self arrest position and
 from the face, knocking O’Malley
backward and off the mountain. The
rock nearly hit Feitzinger. While he
was busy avoiding the rock, he lost
track of O’Malley. Then he realized
Falling Rocks — Broke Away from Routes2000— Pennsylvania, Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Ar
that O’Malley was not on belay
because the rock had severed the
rope. A third partner, Jeff Sukenick,
began efforts to get help for O’Malley,
Pennsylvania,
who was seriously Delaware
injured. Water Gap
Sukenick
Pennsylvania,
National RecreationDelawareArea, Water
Mount Gap
and Feitzinger,
National Recreation and then
Area, twoMount
Minsi, Mount were
paramedics, Tammanyunable to revive
Minsi,
There Mountthree
were Tammany
climbing incidents
0 1024a O’Malley....
There were three
reported from this climbing
area. incidents
Falling Rocks — Broke Away from Routes2000— Pennsylvania,
reported Delaware
from this Water Gap National Recreation Ar
area....
....
In
In August
July on on Mount
Mount Minsi, another
Tammany, Laura
accident involved
Glockeler was ascending a fall to aa fixed
ledgeropeas a
result of a rock (foothold)
when she began to pendulum. She coming
loose.
reached The forclimber,
a large rockDr. Mikeand Sinclair,
it broke
fell
off, crushing her left arm in the His
about 20 feet onto a ledge.
injuries
process.included a pneumothorax,
She required reattachment torn
0 1024b cervical ligament, several
surgery, which was successful.... fractures
(T5&6, ribs, hip), lacerations, and a
Falling Rocks — Broke Away from Routes2000— Pennsylvania, Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Ar
concussion. He survived, thanks to a
technical rescue effort involving a
dozen people. During the rescue, part
of the ledge gave way, and while a
rescuer below was trying to run from
possible harm, he broke his ankle.
(Source: Incident Reports submitted
0 1024c by Delaware Water Gap NRA)
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection,
2001California, MountMount
California, Whitney Whitney
On May 15, Graeme Taylor (39) and
Keith Reid (37), both experienced
climbers, were in the Giant Staircase
of the East Face route on Mt.
Whitney. Graeme was about 40 feet
out on lead when a snow mushroom
Alaska, Mount McKinley,
he was standing on collapsed. Denali Pass
0 1051a On June fell
10 40at 1945,
Graeme feet toLev oneSarkisov
of the
Edited Title: Experienced Climber Glissading
2001 withCalifornia,
Crampons,
(61) California,
of the Mount Whitney
Denali-2000 Mount Whitney
Khalatian
...
Expedition (D2K) was descending
(Editor’s
unroped Note: There Pass
from Denali was one on Mt.other
incident reported from
McKinley when he stumbled at the Mount Whitney.
A 64- year-old
17,400-foot levelmanand lost
fellcontrol
400 feet.when
glissading,
Sarkisov resultingnumerous
sustained in a fractured broken
fibula.
ribs Though
and he had 48
was stabilized at years of
the 17,200-
experience,
foot high camp. he still
On chose
May 12, to awear
large
0 1051b
crampons,
rescue team and when he
lowered himhit toathe
hard
Fall on Snow, Alaska, Mount McKinley,2001
Denali Pass
14,200-foot camp where he was
evacuated by military Chinook
helicopter to Talkeetna. From
Talkeetna he was flown to the Alaska
Regional Hospital in Anchorage where
he was diagnosed with eight fractures
on six ribs.
0 1054t
 methods used sparingly by aid
climbers to get them through
stretches with few other options for
protection. As rivets generally only
hold body weight, D.E. was lucky that
Rock Holding Protection Broke—Fall on2001
Rock, Protecion Pulled Out, British Columbia, Yoho National Pa
one stopped his long fall. (Source:
Murray Toft)
(Editor’s note: There were several
other climbing accidents which
resulted in injury in British Columbia
during 2000. We were unable to
obtain sufficient data on these
0 1077t accidents to report them).
Fall from Rock While Setting Up Rappel,
2001
No Helmet, Tennessee,
Tennessee, Prentice
Prentice CooperState
Cooper State Park
Park
On May 1, Chris Chesnutt (30) and
two friends, Jerry Roberts (34) and
Travis Eisman (30) spent a long day
climbing in an undeveloped area in
Prentice Cooper State Park (just west
of Chattanooga). Following the
0 1085t
completion of a new route they named
Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped, Placed
2001
No Protection, California,
California, MountMount Shasta, Hotlum/Bolam Ridge
Shasta,
Hotlum/Bolam Ridge
Leaving their high camp in the early
morning of September 23, Dave
Woods and David Wicken (36) began
the 40-degree climb of the
Hotlum/Bolam Ridge. Woods fell twice
during the ascent, but was able to
0 1106t
self-arrest. Skirting the western
Fall or Slip on Rock—Two Incidents, Colorado,
2001 Black Canyon
Colorado, of the
Black Gunnison
Canyon of the
Gunnison
On June 17, Zach Alberts (20) fell
while leading a climb of the 5.10+
Cruise route. Alberts was climbing
about 10 feet above his last piece of
protection when he lost his footing,
slipped and fell, sustaining possible
0 1111a
fractures to both ankles. Alberts’
Fall or Slip on Rock—Two Incidents, Colorado,
2001 Black Canyon
Colorado, of the
Black Gunnison
Canyon of the
Gunnison
...
On July 9, Martha Moses (41) fell
while lead-climbing Cruise Gully after
she and her partner abandoned a
climb on the Leisure route. Moses
was climbing 50 feet above her first
0 1111b
protection in intermittent rain when
Overdue, Weather, Exhuastion, Exceeding
2001Abilities, Colorado,
Colorado, Rocky
Rocky MountainNational
Mountain National Park, Longs Pea
Park, Longs Peak
On October 21, RMNP dispatch
received a missing/overdue climbing
party report concerning John
McBroom (47) and Terrance Ford (42)
on Kiener’s Route (III AI), Longs
Peak. They were to have returned
0 1125t
home on October 20. Searchers were
 accident occurred between 4:30 and
5.10c
4:45 p.m. on Transformer
and they were Wall.yelling He for
missed the
help around 5:00 p.m. correct start and fell from
about
They eight
yelled feet
the up, landing
wordsNational “help” and on an
Idaho,
erosion City
control of Rocks
retaining wall. Reserve
He
“SOS.”
The firstThere
one wastonoJamie
was response Aghain from
fractured
climbers and
on the dislocated
wall and his
no ankle.
response
Various Falls on Rock, Idaho, City of Rocks
2001 National
(35), Reserve
who was scrambling down the
This
from terrace
people was
they intentionally
could see along the
gully from
positioned the
such Crack House
that itonwould atprovide
Castle a
road
Rocks below.
when he A group
popped the
a hold bridge andat fell
good
El landing
Cap Crossover zone should
stopped when theysomeone
head
come first off intostart
the a crevice
of thebetween
route—but two
yelled
boulders. and they
Heasustainedshouted, but
a subdural it was
not so good
unclear if it was landing
in response zone for
to their
hematoma.
Daniel’s He
“variation.” was lucky
(Source: to be From in the a
cries.
company They of yelled
an ER from 5:00 p.m.
physician and to
that
letter
dark
Idaho, and
(about
City ofreports
two sent
hours)
Rocks by Brad
and they
0 1131a there
Shilling, happened
Climbing beNational
toRanger) other Reserve
continued
The last to
incident signal was
experienced rescue personnel nearby after
also darkin anwith area
Various Falls on Rock, Idaho, City of Rocks
2001 National
that Reserve
headlamps
is closed and to camera
the public. flash. Robert
—because on any given day, there
A rescue
Laymon
would have was
(38) effected
fell
been while
no one in within
the morning,
climbing miles,
after
unroped communications
on the
as Castle Rocks is not open that
controversial night. North
to the
Analysis
Twin
publicSister,
yet. Also, the closer
Jamie of may which have has
Mescalito
been
walked the away was
object their
of
from this first
years climb
of legal
if he had been after
New
arriving
battles York,in
between Mohonk
Yosemite, the Preserve,
since they
Access Fund aand
wearing
Shawangunks a helmet. (Source: From
wanted
NPS.
letter It to
is start
unknown
and reports “strongly.”
how
sent by Brad far Mescalito
Mr. is
A climber
rated
Laymon VI 5.8
fell,(31)
A3but attempting
and
his is a
injuries towould
26-pitch begin the
climb
0 1131b Shilling,
third pitch Climbing
of the Ranger)
popular
on very
suggest steep
that he rock.
took quiteAndrewa tumble. (5.4)
Various Falls on Rock, Idaho, City of Rocks
2001 National
got Reserve
off route and wandered into Three
Caroline
He may have Brugvin, fallen fromdueSwitzerland,
at least in
Vultures
had
part two
fromyears (5.9). As the
climbing
distraction, leader
as experience,
there was a
attempted
leads
major 5.11a/b
wildfire to aid trad
just through
and A2+.
south ofa themove
Prior by
Sister,to
grabbing
Mescalito,
which, in fact, an old
shewas piece
had forcing of sling
aid-climbed a general only
attached
three
evacuation to from
single-pitcha piton (hints
practice
the Reserve! atclimbs
the age), in
the sling
“school.”
(Source: From broke,
She thought resulting
a letter the in
andaid a fall of
climbing
reports
about
on
sent 30Brad
Mescalito
by feet waswith easier
Shilling, impact intoterms
Climbing the cliff. of
New
He wasYork, loweredMohonk to Preserve,
the GT ledge by
0 1131c the actual
Ranger)
Shawangunks pitches but the climbing
his
was belayer,
longer. lowered offfirst
thetime cliff in in a Webbing Broke W
Various Leader Falls on Rock, Protection2001
Pulled Out
One
litter
(4),
case
by toItnote
Inadequate
rangers,
wasProtection
her
occurred
carried down
(2),a Old
to man
the
Yosemite
(66) who and her firstofbig wall. She
talus
had and is
never
a veteran
taken
done to the
an ambulance
hauling before
cliffs.
and
He
via
was
ranger starting
truck. He up on a fairly
sustained easy climb
knew
—Three nothing
Pines—but at all about
hadand it.aShe
placed
fractured
had
only
pelvis
climbed (in on three
granite places) before, infibula, and
one piecestitches
required of protection.on a He was 20
laceration
Chamonix.
feet up when She he had
fell. climbed
His protectionwith histo
left knee.
David since (Source: From the
as aAnnual
came
Report out, soSpring
submitted he hit by
2001
the
the ground
Mohonk
friend,
and
not as a additional
tumbled client. Shedistance, had not climbed crushing
0 1132a Preserve
with Jeremie andbefore.
Jed Williamson)
his pelvis. However, he feels strongly
Edited Title: Various Leader Falls on Rock,
2001Protection
David Pulled Out (4), been
... NewclimbingYork, Mohonk Preserve, Sh
that hisJonglez
helmet had saved him from for
10-12
possible years death and orleads
at the5.11b very least trad, A3-
4. He had lots of aid
mental debilitation. It is to be noted experience. He
climbed in Yosemite
that of all the incidents reported, in in 1994 (Nose,
Half
only Dome)
two cases andwere 1996helmets(PO, Zodiac, being
Salathe). He
worn. (Source: From the works as a mountain
Annual
guide
Reportatsubmitted
home. Heby hasthealso Mohonk climbed in
0 1132b Greenland,
Preserve and Jed Williamson) the
Peru etc. David was
boss on Mescalito. He and Jeremie
Fall on Rock, Protection, Inexperience, 2002
Inadequate Food, California, Yosemite valley, El Capitan, Mescali
had climbed together before.
This was was Jeremie’s first time in
Yosemite. He has only climbed in
France. He felt the climbing here was
less technical than at home. He felt it
was easier to read the routes here.
(Donna Sisson, Lincoln Else, John Dill
0 1164t —Rangers, Yosemite National Park)
 traverse an icy area where he slipped
and tumbled down into Avalanche
Gulch. He came to a stop on a 36
degree scree slope. The climber who
spotted Malzbender assessed and
Edited Title: FALL ON SNOW ..., Alaska,2002Mountstabilized
McKinley,
Alaska, him,
MountWestfinding thatWest
Buttress
McKinley, he had
sustained
Buttress multiple rib fractures, an
ankle fracture, a punctured
At 1430 on May 17, Frainciso Borja lung, and
major facial lacerations.
(32), a member of the Blue Skies After
bandaging
Expedition,Malzbender,
was witnessed he by
went
NPSfor
help
RangerandScott
contacted
Metcalfe Siskiyou
and VIP County
Kirk
Search
Mauthner and Rescue
falling fromatjust
1405.
below the
The California
balcony Highway
at 15,200 Patrolcaught
feet. Borja
0 1165a helicopter flew to 11,500 feet, where
his right crampon on his left pant leg,
Edited Title: ...HAPE/HACE-ASCENDING 2002 TOOAlaska,
FAST, Alaska,
rescuers Mount Mount
McKinley,
then climbed McKinley,
West West Buttress
to Malzbender.
Buttress
They were able to stabilize him and
... him into a litter. He was hoisted
load
Concurrently,
and transported around
to Mercy2130Medical
while
walking around the 14,200-foot camp,
Center.
NPS volunteers Moyer and
Analysis
Sherrington
Party cameisupon
separation an
a common
unresponsive
problem climber.
on Mount Marc Springer
Shasta.
0 1165b
(29) of the Vipers
Malzbender’s Expedition
partner was toowas far
Fall on Snow—Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing
2002 Alone and Unroped, Inadequate Equipment, California, M
ahead and was unaware of his fall.
Malzbender was unable to recognize
that the rock he was walking on was
covered with a layer of ice and a
dusting of snow on top. He was not
wearing crampons or a helmet.
(Source: Eric White, Matt Hill—USFS
0 1168t Climbing Rangers)
Loose Rock, Ontario, Bon Echo, Ottawa2002
Route Ontario, Bon Echo, Ottawa Route
On July 21, I.G. was leading the third
pitch of the “Ottawa Route” (5.8) at
Bon Echo, which rises 100 meters
straight up from Lake Mazinaw, when
she called out to seconder C.G. that a
large granite block had dislodged and
was weighing down upon her. Seeing
0 1181t
no boaters or swimmers below, C.G.
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Route, Protection
2002 Pulled Out, Inexperience,
Wisconsin, Devil's Lake StateWisconsin,
Park,Devil's Lake State
Resurrection
A climber set out to do a classic route
—Resurrection (5.9). Tom was a
competent gym climber at 5.10+, but
he had no experience leading on rock
or placing protection.
Tom had problems finding the route
0 1204t
and quickly lost his way and found
Hiker Disappeared, Oregon, Broken Top2002 Oregon,
that it wasBroken
beyond Top his lead ability.
On August 10, Danny
After route searching for Curran
some(24)
time,left
his younger brother at their Green
Lakes pack-in campsite late in the
day, saying he was going to climb
Broken Top, the snow capped
mountain summit just one and a half
miles due east. The elevation gain is
0 1226t
2,670 feet, over friable volcanic rock,
 HAPE, HACE, and AMS, Wyoming, Grand 2002 TetonWyoming,
National Park
Grand Teton National Park
While signs and symptoms of AMS
are not unusual in the Tetons, it is
rare to see HAPE or HACE. During
the summer of 2001, four significant
altitude- related cases were seen.
One was a 14 year old boy scout from
Sugar City, ID, who had climbed the
0 1247a
Middle and South Tetons from the
HAPE, HACE, and AMS, Wyoming, Grand 2002 TetonWyoming,
National Park
Grand Teton National Park
While signs and symptoms of AMS
are not unusual in the Tetons, it is
rare to see HAPE or HACE. During
the summer of 2001, four significant
altitude- related cases were seen. ...
Two brothers, Mike (24) and Joe (19)
Baker, flew in from Pennsylvania on
0 1247b
August 17 and immediately set out for
HAPE, HACE, and AMS, Wyoming, Grand 2002 TetonWyoming,
a National
day climbPark
Grand
of theTeton
GrandNational
Teton. Park
While signs and symptoms of AMS
are not unusual in the Tetons, it is
rare to see HAPE or HACE. During
the summer of 2001, four significant
altitude- related cases were seen. ...
Caltha Crowe (54) and her husband
from Connecticut were backpacking
0 1247c
into Hanging Canyon, also on August
HAPE, HACE, and AMS, Wyoming, Grand 2002 TetonWyoming,
National
17, when Park
Grand
she Teton
began National Park
projectile
While signs and symptoms of AMS
are not unusual in the Tetons, it is
rare to see HAPE or HACE. During
the summer of 2001, four significant
altitude- related cases were seen. ...
On September 4, Seth Uptain (24)
and Todd Lamppa (28) from Casper,
0 1247d
WY, set out to attempt a “light and
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Equipment-Rope
2003Too Short,
fast” Failure
Colorado,
ascent toofTie
theStopper
Eldorado Knot,Red
Canyon,
East Ridge Nothe
of Hard Hat, Colorado
Garden Wall
On October 13, Kelly Elverum (34)
was being lowered down Darkness ’til
Dawn (5.9+) when the end of the
climbing rope slipped through the
belay device because the rope was
not long enough to reach to the
0 1269t
ground. The fall was about 35 feet,
High Winds and Possible Avalanche, Alaska,
2003 Mount McKinley,
Alaska, MountHarper Glacier
McKinley, Harper
Glacier
On the evening of July 3, a 16-
member National Outdoor Leadership
School (NOLS) expedition was hit by
high wind or possibly debris from an
avalanche at approximately 17,200
feet on the Upper Harper Glacier.
0 1292t
Although no members of the party
 event
suggest of that
a fall.the climbers slipped and
When the
fell somewhere weather aboveandthe snowice cliff.
conditions are such,
They were dressed for cold it’s quiteweather
possible
that being tied into a
and were wearing headlamps. Based rope to other
climbers
on their last poses known its own dangers.
location, time,Ifand
Edited Title-Inadequate Protection, Weather
2003 and Stranded-Weather,
thefall of one member Exposure-Hypothermia,
might Washington,
clothing description, it suggests that
potentially lead to
they were descending when the the sweep of an
entire
accident rope team, running
occurred. (Source: protection,
Mike
such as pickets,
Gauthier, Climbing Ranger) should be used. Also
noteworthy
(Editor’s Note: is the
See fact that more
similar than
incidents—
once
one on
on MountMount Rainier,
Hood the
in thisWest smallest
issue, one
Alaska,
person Mount
on a ropedMcKinley,
team has pulled
in ANAM
Buttress 1998 in Alaska on Ptarmigan
0 1302a numerous
Peak.) larger teammates off the
This summary is comprised of two
mountain.
Edited Title: Fall into Crevasse-Inadequate
2003Protection,
separateWeather and Stranded-Weather,
incidents that ended up as Washington, Moun
Wedberg’s team fortunately came to
one
rest continuous effort using many
without life-threatening injuries.
shared resources
(Source: Mike Gauthier, and with multiple
Climbing
overlapping
Ranger) responsibilities.
On May 26
(Editor’s Note: SeeLee Jung Park incidents—
similar (age
unknown) of the “Duksung
one on Mount Hood in this issue, Women’s one
University Alpine Team
in ANAM 1998 in Alaska on Ptarmigan Expedition”
0 1302b injured
Peak.) her ankle when her leg “gave
out” while descending the West
Fall on Rock-Handhold Pulled Out, Apparently
2003 Failed
New to Test Hold,
Mexico, Sandia Off Route,
Mountain Inadequate Protection, New
Buttress route on Mt. McKinley
Wilderness, Muralla Grande
around 16,500 feet, just below
On May 8, two resident physicians set
“Washburn’s Thumb.” Park was
out to climb Warpy Moople (5.9- .10,
lowered by her teammates with
III), an eight pitch, 816 foot route on
assistance from another Korean team
Muralla Grande, one of the major
that was descending from the 17,200-
formations in the Sandia Mountain
foot camp at the same time. On May
Wilderness outside of Albuquerque.
0 1310t 28, Park was evacuated from 14,200-
On the first pitch the leader placed a
Edited Title: Stranded-Weather, Climbing 2003 foot
too Slowly, camp to the
Washington,
Washington, Mount 7,200-foot
Mount base
Rainier,
Ranier, Liberty Ridge and Ka
Liberty
camp by the National
Ridge and Kautz Glacier Park Service
(NPS)
On Saturdaycontract JuneLama 29,helicopter.
the Quillen
...
party of two was rescued from a
Analysis
summit crevasse bivouac, three days
The
overdue“Duksung
from aWomen’s University
planned climbing trip
Alpine Team
of Liberty Ridge. ... Expedition,” with help
from anotherteam
The Quillen party, weretheir
began able climb
to on
0 1321a execute
Sunday, aJune self-rescue
23, ascending and lowering
just of
Edited Title: ... and Loss of Control Glissading,
2003 Faulty
the
ahead Use
Washington,of of
patient the Crampons,
in Mount
an efficient
Whitcomb Washington,
Ranier, Liberty
manner
party Mount Rainier, Lib
to
Ridge
within
previouslyand
100-200 Kautz Glacier
meters The
mentioned. of the 14,200-
Quillen
On
footSaturday
camp without June the 29,...Also
help ofthatNPSday,
climber
personnel. Though the NPS took from
Yong Phan was rescued over
8900of
care feettheon the approach
patient very close to Camp
to camp,
Hazard.
this Phan had
self-initiated broken
rescue his lower
effort, in poor
right leg/conditions,
weather ankle.... is the type of
During this
behavior time,
that another climbing
is necessary in this
0 1321b
accident had to
environment occurred
achievebelow the high
a favorable
Ankle Injury and ..., Alaska, Mount McKinley,
2004 West camp Buttress
on forthe the
Kautz Glacier Route.
outcome injured party. Had Mr.this
Phan waited
team twistedfor and thebroke
Parkhislower
Service leg to
respond, it would have taken a much
longer time to get resources into place
and may have resulted in cold related
injuries much worse than those that
were sustained during the lowering.
0 1324a . (Source: Ranger Gordy Kito)
 is always to descend to a lower
elevation. The patient’s team was
initially planning on descending on the
morning of the 28th, but with the
Lama coming in to evacuate Park, it
... HAPE, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West 2004
Buttress
was determined that fewer people
would be put at risk if Passey were
evacuated. The decision to evacuate
an injured climber via helicopter
always requires a thorough risk
assessment and is a decision that the
Park Service Rangers never take
0 1324b lightly. (Source: Ranger Gordy Kito)
Fall on Rock, Weather, Wyoming, Grand 2004
Teton National
Wyoming, Park, GrandTeton
Grand TetonNational Park,
Grand Teton
On August 31 at 1855, Exum Guide
Jim Williams called via cell phone
from the Lower Saddle stating that he
could hear yells for help coming from
New York, Shawangunks
the area by the “Eye of the Needle.”
One accident involved Mike Cimino
Williams stated he was willing to hike
0 1389at (32), a guide, who fell while leading
up to the scene, estimating it would
Falling Rock—Dislodged, Colorado, McCurdy
2004 StateTranscontinental
Park, Blockbuster
Colorado, McCurdy Nailway, a 5.10
State Park,
route. A
Blockbuster piece of protection pulled, so
he
My fell 20 feet
partner was toinjured
the groundwhileon his
climbing
back,
a routeresulting in “…six fused
near “Blockbuster” on
vertebrae,
New York, aShawangunks
September 9.couple
A loose of block
broken ribs,
(about
and
6x6x4 a renewed
feet) pulled sense
whileof
There was one fatality, occurring in enthusiasm.”
he was
His ownwhen
following.
March analysis,
Hean struck forhis
which
experiencedkneewe onthank
44 the
year-
him,
old is
wayclimber as follows:
down. Thankfully there was
fell while leading no
Strictly
0 1401t “Hubris got fracture
me(5.7).
hurt.injury
I’ve climbed
compound
from Nowhere He did direthe
nornot
Fall on Rock , Inadequate Protection, no2004
helmet, New
route York, Shawangunks
protectlordtheknows
traversinghow moves
many times…
out to I
was working a ‘rope-gun’
the end of the overhang. His fall was day
(meaning
backwards—aboutnothing but tensingle pitchfeet
or twelve 5.10
and 5.11 lines) with one
—and he struck his head. He was not of my
regulars.
wearing a…I made poor decisions:
helmet.(Sources: Hank no
helmet (thankfully
Alicandri -Director of Land not a major factor)
and I chose a tiny blue
Stewardship/Head Ranger,alienand
rather
Mike
0 1407a than a
Cimino.) larger yellow one with a nut
back-up as my first piece. When the
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Protection
2004 Pulled, New York, Shawangunks
unlikely fall happened, my gear was
simply inadequate. As a guide, it’s all
too easy to slip into thinking of the
gear as only being there as
directionals for the clients’ protection.”
(Sources: Hank Alicandri -Director of
Land Stewardship/Head Ranger, and
0 1407b Mike Cimino.)
Fall on Rock, Yukon Territory, Kluane 2005
National Park
Yukon Reserve, Mount
Territory, LoganNational Park
Kluane
Reserve, Mount Logan
A trio of experienced climbers,
Stephen Canning (22), and his two
partners (36 and 43) registered to
climb Mount Logan’s East Ridge on
May 7. They expected to be done
their expedition on June 4. When the
0 1433a
trio started their attempt at the East
 medical care to Greg that night. They
could have flown him off the route
soon after dawn, shaving several
hours off his time to the hospital.
But how to get help? Joe didn’t realize
Fall on Rock, Anchor Pulled, Exposure,2005
Yukon Territory,
…We
his voiceKluane
have alsoNational
would learned
be heard Park
thatReserve, Mount Caubvick
theValley,
in the
bodies
but of the two
it probably wouldmissing
haveclimbers,
been.
Daniel Pauze
Making lots of and
noiseSusan
is theBarnes, in
best action
thea Torngat
in situationMountains in northern
like this. Second, he
Labrador
could have last year
tried hishave
FRSbeen radio “in the
recovered. From notes
blind” (to no one in particular).in the summit
The
register
NPS does andnotphotos
monitorrecovered, it
these channels
appears that the duo successfully
but many private users do. Third, he
0 1433b
climbed
could have to the summit
flashed of Mount
an SOS if he had
Fall on Wet Rock, Inadequate Protection,2005
Inadequate Clothing and Equipment, Inexperience, Exposure, No
had a light. Fourth, something that in
fact was done, is telling someone
where he and Greg were going and
when to begin to worry. In fact, the
NPS was looking for them. (Source:
Joe Hardy, Greg McFalls, John Dill,
NPS Ranger, Yosemite National Park,
1 1441t and Jed Williamson.)
Falling Rock, Alaska, Denali National Park,
2005 Mount McKinley,
Alaska, Denali West Buttress
National Park, Mount
McKinley, West Buttress
The Alaska Mountaineering School
(AMS)-8 expedition led by Rob
Gowler flew to basecamp on the
southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier
on June 10. The group progressed
steadily up the West Buttress route.
0 1442a
Even with several long delays due to
Edited Title: Overdue, Alaska, Denali National
2005 Park, Mount
Alaska, McKinley,
Denali West
National Buttress
Park, Mount
McKinley...
On May 4, Jason Harper, c. 28, was
dropped off at Windy Ridge for an
attempt on Mount Sanford. When the
pilot returned to pick him up on May 9,
he was nowhere to be found. After 12
days of searching and finding no
0 1442b
trace, the presumption is that he
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Oregon,
2005MountOregon,
Hood, SandyMount Glacier
Hood, Sandy Glacier
On November 4, Kenny Dale
Kasselder and Shaun Olcott (both 37)
had crossed the Sandy Glacier,
roped, and were beginning to ascend
the headwall. One of them slipped
and pulled the other off, as they had
not placed any protection. They fell
0 1465a
about 100 feet, landing in a crevasse.
Edited Title: Heart Attack, Non-climbing2005
death, Oregon,
Oregon, Mount
Mount Hood,
Hood, Sandy
Sandy Glacier
Glacier
...
(Editor’s Note: On March 13, Beau
Clark (30) died from a heart attack
while climbing with friends on
Broughton's Bluff. He had made it to a
ledge. His friends said they heard a
weird noise, and when they looked
0 1465b
down., he was hanging about 30 feet
 Edited Title: Drowned trying to save climbing
2005 shoe in surf,was
... There Maine,oneCamden, The Ramparts
other climbing-
related accident in Maine this year,
gleaned from the NPS Morning
Report,though not counted in the
data. Emil Lin, 21, of Hampden,
Maine, drowned while attempting to
retrieve a climbing shoe from the
ocean below Otter Cliffs, one of the
0 1467a
most popular local climbing
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped,
2005 Maine, Camden,
Maine, The Ramparts
Camden, The Ramparts
I think of the accident described here
as the case of the wet ladder. On
March 17, my girlfriend’s dog, Kaya,
and I, Ryan J. Howes (22), went on a
1.0 mile hike to a local climbing area
called “The Ramparts,” in Camden,
Maine. I have soloed here on many
0 1467b
occasions. I know the climbs here well
Fall on Rock—Lowering Error, Communication
2005 Problem,
Utah, BigUtah, Big Cottonwood
Cottonwood CanyonCanyon
On June 16, Doug Grennan (18) and
eight friends were top-roping sport
climbs in the upper S-Curves area of
Big Cottonwood Canyon. Doug was
climbing a 5.10 route on the right side
of the buttress, most likely Urban
SprawlVarious
Utah, (10a). When Doug reached
Locations
0 1481t
the March
On chains,2,heRobert
clippedMoorin and
(35)cleaned
fell 100
Fall on Rock, , Utah, 2005
feet to his death when the ice he was
attached to broke off. He was climbing
with a friend in Sanpete County’s
Utah,
MapleVarious
CanyonLocations
when the ice broke
At 7:00
away from p.m. theonface.
May Moore
29, a 21-year-old
died on
man was free-soloing with
impact. It is suspected that weather some
friends
related at the Moss Ledges
freeze/thaw picnic
was a contributing
Utah,
area Various
when he Locations
apparently slipped on a
0 1508a factor.
On
wet July
rock11,
andTimfell Roberts
backward (36)
intoofthe
Salt
Fall on Rock, , Utah, 2005 Lake
creek.City, sustained
Witnesses saidseveral
the man broken
fell
vertebrae when he fell
approximately 15 feet and landed20 feet afteron
his
his climbing
head. Countyrope slipped
search and (NB:rescue
Assume
volunteers and paramedics his
belay slipped) and partner
reached
was unable to regain control.
the man quickly and a life-flight
Dispatchers
helicopter was fromon the
handUtah County
waiting to
Sheriff’s office received a call
transport, but the victim died at the
0 1508b reporting
scene. the accident at 9:00 a.m.
Lone Peak Fire District Paramedics
Fall on Rock, , Utah, 2005
treated Roberts at the scene. The
canyon was closed for several hours
in order to bring in a helicopter to
airlift him to L.D.S. Hospital in Salt
Lake City. Police report that Roberts
and his partner were both
experienced climbers and were using
0 1508c appropriate equipment.
 CLOTHING
Disappointment AND EQUIPMENT AND
when one of the Peak.
INEXPERIENCE rocks The he was firstusing
occurred
as a handhold on Wednesdaypulled out.morning. The man
Mysha
was Miskin
free-soloing (30) and of fell
Rexburg,
into Idaho,
a very
Wyoming,
had been Grand
hit by Tetonrocks
falling National around Park,
steep and treacherous
Disappointment Peak area. He
5:00
sufferedp.m.facial the previous
lacerations evening
and awhile
Fall on Rock, , Utah, 2005 climbing the Chouinard
possible
The second broken ankle and wason
helicopter-assisted
Ridge the
unable
Middle
to move. Teton
The with her
man’s friend husband,ran down
rescue
Garon and
Miskin. evacuation
Although took
Mysha place wasat a
the
4:30 trail
p.m. to get
Elizabeth help and
Messarosencountered (22)
injured
On
thirdDecember
personby a rock with 17,a that
acell struck
highlyphone her just
dislocated
below the her
back shoulder
of her while who
climbing
experienced
notified rescue
attempting rock
toandstop climber
personnel.
herself was
Several
from killed
sliding
helmet,
after
hours of she
apparently
highly Garon
falling
technical continued
400 feet
rescue fromto a
work
after
climb she
and slipped
summit onthe hard-packed
Middle Teton
peak
were
snow in
in Ogden
required
the SpoontoCanyon.
bring
CouloirtheThe onbody
victim outofso
0 1508d that they
Kenneth
of the gulch. could safely
Gigi of Syracuse descend was slid an
Disappointment
easier route via Peak.
the Messaros
Southwest Couloir
Fall on Rock, , Utah, 2005 recovered
about 150 on the
feetTeton. afternoon
beforeBy running of intothe
on
18ththe Middle
following an extensive the time
search the
rocks
climbers
On July and 18, sustaining
reachedPatrick a additional
point
Desisto just (19) below was
and recovery
injuries. Teton effort.
InteragencyGigi went dispatch
the saddle
rescued
climbing after
near between
being
Malan’s Middle
stranded
Peak Teton
inon a and
Ogden
received
South
ledge for a
Teton,19 cell
hours phone
Mysha was
near call from
not
Bridal able
Veil to
on
On the
Messaros’
August Decemberhiking
11,Canyon. 17. He Steve
partner
a hiked
50-year-old wasman due about
was
continue.
Falls
back in
ata.m. Garon
Provo
hisintohome byCreek back
A
5:00 p.m.large up to
but the
11:40
rappelling
saddle
boulder hadRangers
and made Pine
fallen aon were
911 hiscall just
Canyon
hands. for his
never
completing
from made
thesuffered
north it.
therim About
transfer 9:00
whenofhe p.m.
equipment
found
assistance
Desisto
family called latetheTuesday
lacerations
Sheriff’s evening.
office andto that Two
1 1508e and
his rescue
rope
rangers
broken did
with
bones personnel
not reach
emergency
in several from
to the the
medical
fingers. canyonSouth
gear
report
Fork
floor. of him
WhenGarnet missing.
he Canyon
attemptedSearch aftertocrews
the his
stop
Fall on Rock, , Utah, 2005 began
found hiking
two of from
Gigi’s Lupine
friends Meadows
who were
morning
downwardinto
trailhead evacuation.
movement,
the South The he
Forkpark’s
turned of
also
upside looking
contract down for
helicopterand him, and they
shuttled
rappelled sixpointed
off thethe end
Garnet
searchers Canyonto the within
area an hour
Gigi of
frequented.
rangers
of his
emergency rope,to a landing
falling
calla and 15 spot
feet
reached on
to the
the
Mysha flanks at
At
of 11:00floor.
Disappointment
canyon p.m. EMS group Peak consisting
personnel near and the of
about
Sheriff’s 2:45 a.m.
searchers on Wednesday
and friends
Grand
rescuers
morning. Teton.
FourThe
attended other rangers
to him
rangers then
and raised
packed
spotted
descended
him 100 Gigi’s
feet theto body
Spoon
the in
rim. a chute
Couloir,
He below
sustained
in
theextra
face medical
of the equipment
peak. It appeared and that
provided
fractures
camping emergency
to four
gear ribs
careand
towhile medicalhis left
for the care to
injured
0 1508f he had slipped
Messaros,
femur. and lowered climbing
her to and
the had
Mysha
fallen or until
slid the park’s contract
approximately 400 feet.
Fall on Rock, , Utah, 2005 bottom
helicopter of thecould couloir
fly with afterearly placingmorning her
Gigi
in a was
climbing solo climbing
harness with
affixed no to gear
ropes. or
light.
helmet, only a backpack. The best
They helped Messaros walk to a spot
theory
just above is that for whateverLake,
Amphitheater reason, where he
On
beganWednesday
climbing morning,
and was the rangers
soon in a
the helicopter
carried Myshalanded by hand-litterand picked to a her
position
up for a flight to the Lupine Meadows
helicopter
where the landing
safest spot just
escape was east to of
trytheto
rescue
Middle facility.
and South Messaros
Teton followedwas
saddle. She then
climb out
transferred of the
to athen canyon,
parktaken ambulance anda
by
0 1508g was
slip flown
on ice out,
or snow. to St.John’s
transported
Medical Center to St. in John’s
Jackson Medical
for
Edited Title: Falling Rock and Slip on Snow,
2005 Wyoming,
Center Grand
for Teton National
treatment of her Park,
injuries. Middle Teton and Di
treatment of her injuries. Garon
Messaros
applied emergency was wearing first tennis
aid to his shoes wife
and using ski poles,
and the two climbers practiced good rather than an ice
ax,
self at the time
rescue of the accident.
procedures until park
(Source: From
rangers could reach an NPS them. Morning
They report were
submitted by Jackie
well prepared for their climbing Skaggs, Public
Affairs
excursion Specialist)
and had extra clothing and
0 1510a rain gear with them.
Analysis
Falling Rock and Slip on Snow—Unable 2005
to Self-Arrest Due to Inadequate Clothing and Equipment and In
Two contrasting stories. As for the
latter, Ranger Renny Jackson said it
above in the March 12 incident: Loss
of control in a slide on snow is the
most common incident in the park,
and usually involves the lack of proper
0 1510b gear. (Source: Jed Williamson)
 volunteers could be flown only to
around 8,500 feet. When the rescue
party arrived at the scene, the injured
climber was conscious and stable. He
had injuries to head, shoulder, lower
Avalance, Weather, Unroped, Yukon, Kluane back,
2006 National
Yukon, hip,
Park, and
Mount
Kluane knee.Logan, East
National Park,Ridge
Mount
A
Logan, East Ridge had to be
lowering system
constructed.
J.A. (22) andFortunately,
her partner C.D. at last(34)
light,
winds decreased and
began their expedition on May 27. he was short
hauled
They were by CDF Helicopter
scheduled 202 to
to return byan
LZ
June at 25.
8,500J.A.feet,
hadwhere he was
previously
transferred
summited the to a CHP Trench
King’s helicopter with a
on Mount
paramedic
Logan at age on 17,
board and aflown
setting recordto as
0 1513t Mercy Medical Center.
the youngest
Washington, person
Mount to He
scale
Rainier, remained
the
Ingraham
Fall on Snow—Loss of Control on Voluntary
2006 Glissade,
in the California,
California, Mount
hospital forMount
Whitney
several Whitney
days. He
Glacier
On
was April 10, Patrick
released with Wang lacerations
several (27) and
About 5:00 p.m. on July 7, rangers at
Martin
on Kozaczek
his head, (27)
bonenotified climbed
chipping the
Camp Muir were by on the
Rainier
Mountaineer’s
skull, a broken Route
jaw, on Mount
dislocated
Mountaineering, Inc., of a climbing
Whitney. On
shoulder, large descent, around 14,000
team of three athematoma
the 13,000-foot to the level
feet, there
lower back, isand
a steep
torn traverse on
ligaments inahis
on the Ingraham Glacier in possible
snowfield
right between the summit and
needknee. of assistance. One of the team
the notch.Mount
Climbing The climbers
Shasta decided
in perfectto
0 1539a (49) was crossing a snow bridge when
remove their
conditions has crampons
a certain and attempt
amount of to
Various Falls on Snow, California, Mount2006
Shasta he fell ten feet into a crevasse.
risk. High
Though hiswinds
fall wasincrease
arrested thatbyrisk,
his
and in my opinion, this
two climbing partners, he injured his was not a
good
shoulder. day They
to climb. were Crawling
descending to the
summit in high winds
slowly to their camp at Ingraham is NOT
courageous
Flats. or noble. Turning around
and descending
Rangers Ken Davies to safer
andelevations
Lynn Finnel is.
(Source: Eric White,
were dispatched from Camp Muir to Climbing
0 1558t Ranger/Avalanche
assess and assist the Specialist, USFS)
injured climber.
Falling Rock Hits Climber—Despite Doing 2006All the Right
Washington,
At IngrahamThings, Washington,
Mount
Flats, Rainier,
they Mount
found the Rainier, Disappointm
Disappointment
team and Ken Davies, Cleaver an EMT,
On July 29,an
performed Estee
initialFernandez
medical (29)
was descending
assessment. He the base
placed of theand
a sling
Disappointment
swathe on the injuredCleaver with herThe
shoulder.
partner when
climber said he a two-foot
could walk, diameter
but that rock
he
hit her in the back, knocking
could not tolerate any weight on his her about
ten feet down
shoulder. The the slope.
rangers She and
assisted himherin
0 1569t
partner walked to
descending to Camp Muir. The Camp Muir and
Fall Into Crevasse, Washington, Mount 2007
Rainier, Ingraham Glacier
climbers continued on down to the
Paradise parking area. Enroute they
met two physicians. Their examination
indicated that the injury was probably
a dislocation. (Source: Bergtrage)
(Editor’s Note: This was the only
report from Mount Rainier for the
0 1581t year. ...)
Falls on Rock, etc., Wisconsin, Devil's Lake
1991 State Park
Wisconsin, Devil’s Lake State Park...
One fatality occurred when a 62 year
old college professor fell about 38
meters as a result of a large piece of
the rock on which he was climbing
breaking free.... (Source: Devil’s Lake
0 158t State Park—Visitor Accident Reports)
 Poke-O-Moonshine.
He was working on a bolted route and
then rappelled, apparently with no
autoblock, on a doubled rope that
wasn’t knotted and rappelled off the
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, New Hampshire,
2007 Cathedral
Newof
end Ledge,
Hampshire, Turner's
his rope. Flake Ledge,
Cathedral
Turner's Flake
Adirondack rock-climbing guide Don
This afternoon
Mellor, of Lake (August
Placid, who 6) while
climbedI was
belaying
with Luther myforgirlfriend
over 20on the first
years, waspitch
of Thin saddened
deeply Air, I witnessed
to learn Doug M. (50+)
of the
take a leader
accident Sunday. fall on Turners Flake. It
is estimated he fell 30–40
“He’s a good guy, a good friend of all feet. He
immediately
of ours,” Mellor stated
said.he“It’shada broken
gigantichis
0 1593t
wrist
loss to all of us in the local broken in
(later confirmed it was
Fall on Rock—Dislocated Knee, Fall on2007
Snow—Unable to Self-Arrest,
Washington, Exceeding Abilities,
North Cascades, Mt. Inability to Co
community, which is really tight.”
Baker, Spider/Formidable Couloir
Luther earned great respect as a rock
Marty, Dave, Doug and I (Mike) all
climber and was “very, very beloved
met as volunteers on a local mountain
by all his friends.”
rescue team. Among the four of us we
Analysis
had varying degrees of rescue,
For the third year in a row, we have a
mountaineering and rock climbing
report of a very experienced climber
experience. Additionally, Dave and
0 1604t coming to a tragic end as a result of a
Doug are members of a popular
Falling Rock—Foothold Came Off, New 2007 basic
Hampshire, rappelCliff,
NewCannon
Hampshire, error.Moby(Source:
Cannon Grape JedMoby
Cliff,
Williamson)
Grape
Additional
On September Notes: 2, Poke-O-Moonshine
my climbing partner
is
Jona national
Sykes and caliber
I hadrock-climbing
gotten an alpine
area,
start toknown
climb for
on clean
Cannon geometric
Cliff hopinglines
and steep
to beat thepitch,
weather which makes
coming in itwith
popular
hurricane with advanced
Ernesto. I was technical
aid-climbing
climbers. There are
up the first pitch of One Dropnearly 150of Water
0 1615t established “trad” or traditional rock I
and was only 15 feet from the ledge
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, North
2008Carolina, Crowders
North
climbingCarolina, Mountain
routes up the State
Crowders Park,
Mountain
cliffs of Poke-Red Wall
State
O- Park, Red
Moonshine Wall 450 feet at
reaching
Latehighest
the in the afternoon
point. It isof notMay 13, D.on
unusual
Frank
a sunny and his partner
weekend day M. Nagem
to see 15 or (45)
were attempting
more groups working a rock climb
their way (route
up the
unknown)
rock on the Red Wall. Frank was
fractures.
an experienced
Poke-O-Moonshine, climber who“Poke-O”
called
frequently climbed in
by climbers, has been a popular the park.
0 1644a
According
climbing area since 1955 withFrank
to park personnel, famed
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error—Rappelled2008
Off End of Rope, No Auto-Block and No Knots in Ends of Rope N
routes with names like “Bloody Mary,”
“The Cooler,” and “Land of Make
Believe.”
(Source: All information in narrative
and notes from an article found on
line at PressRepublican.com, and
written by Kim Smith Dedam on
0 1653t October 8, 2007.)
Jumped into Crevasse, and then Later Fell
2008in Camp While Urinating,
California, California,
Mount Shasta, Mount Shasta, Hotlum Gl
Hotlum
Glacier and in Camp
On August 15, a 28-year-old male
climber was hurt when he jumped into
a shallow crevasse on the Hotlum
Glacier at around 11,400 feet. His
crampon caught his pant leg and
resulted in a broken tibia.
0 1670t
He was transported by his climbing
partners to camp and a Black Hawk
came in to evacuate him in the
evening. They were unable to hover,
 Utah, Little Cottonwood Canyon,
Church Vaults
On September 3, Gary Wholfarth (43)
and two friends had been climbing in
Protection Pulled Out, Fall on Rock, New1991 the
NewChurch
Hampshire, Cathedral
Hampshire,Vaults
Ledges area of Little
Cathedral Ledges
Cottonwood Canyon.
On July 31 a leader was In the process
having
of pulling their rope after
trouble getting into the lower of thea climb, it
became
two V slots on Double Vee (9+) onthey
stuck in the rocks. When the
pulled
upper lefthardwallon oftheCathedral.
rope to free Heit,placed
several
a small TCU large (three
rocks camwereunit)dislodged.
and
One
hungof them
from it. hit
As Gary in theuphead,
he pulled on the
injuring him despite
TCU, it pulled out. Inthe thehelmet he was
nine meters
0 167t wearing. One friend
of crack below there ran
were down
two the
nuts.trail
Fall on Rock—Dislocated Shoulder, Wyoming,
2008 Grand
to theTeton
Wyoming, National
roadGrand Park,
to call Teton
for help Symmetry
National Spire
Park,
while the
Symmetry Spire
other started walking Gary down the
At 1330
trail. on September
Before SAR team members 11, the Exum had
Mountainthe
arrived, Guides’ office received
two climbers reached athe
call from
road and Guide
Gary was Garytransported
Falk, guide, byon
Jensen ambulance
ground ridge of Symmetry Spire. Falk
to the hospital.
stated that a client had a dislocated
Analysis
shoulder
Any time and
a ropea helicopter would be
is being pulled,
0 1692t
needed is
rockfall atathe base of Jensen
possibility. WearingRidge
a
Falling Rocks—Dislodged by Pulling on2008Rope, Utah, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Church Vaults
helmet is always a good idea, but it’s
also best to move out of the line of fire
before pulling. In most places it is
possible to pull from a location other
than directly under the rope. (Source:
Tom Moyer, Salt Lake County
Sheriff’s Search and Rescue)
0 1695t
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone, Alaska, 2009
Mount Mckinley,
Alaska,West Mount Buttress
McKinley, West
Buttress
Claude Ratté was a member of the
Quebecoise 2008 Expedition, which
consisted of two party members out of
Quebec. Richard Cadorette, the
second team member, had left the
expedition approximately a week
0 1711t
before Ratté’s accident due to team
Fall on Rock, Mt. Shasta 2009 California, ...
(Editor’s Note: We received two
reports from Mount Shasta, one of
which was a fatality that occurred
when a woman (35) was unable to
self-arrest. She and her two climbing
companions were not wearing
helmets..)
0 1722a
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled out and 2009
Inadequate Protection,Tahquitz
California, Exceeding RockAbilities, California, Taquitz Ro
On October 19, Sean was leading the
first pitch of “The Blank” route on
Tahquitz when he fell. The route
began at a large ledge and access to
the ledge was via easy 3rd-class on
the right side of the ledge. The back
of the ledge dropped off 20 feet or
0 1722b
more to a relatively flat area on the
 Fall on Rock, Foothill Crag 2009 California, ...
A brief report found on
mountainproject.com stated that two
teenagers were climbing at Foothill
Crag—near Ojai—when one of them
fell 45 feet to the ground because the
climbing rope burned through a
webbing anchor as he was being
0 1722c
lowered. He had not threaded the
Stranded, Darkness, Inadequate Equipment,
1991Failure to Learn Rocky
Colorado, DescentMountain
Route, Colorado,
NationalRocky Mountain N
Park, Taylor Peak
On December 12, Markin Fevughack
(25) and Holley English (25) became
stranded atop Thatchtop Mountain
due to
New darkness
York, Mohonk after an ascent of
Preserve,
Taylor Glacier on
Shawangunks, TaylorRoutes
Various Peak. It took
them most
There of the
was one following
fatality. An day to
1 172t
work their way
experienced down (58)
climber Thatchtop
was onand
a
Fall on Rock (16) Inadequate Protection2009
, New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawnagunks, Various Routes
route rated 5.2-53. He climbed out of
sight beyond his belayer. He fell past
the belayer to the ground. There was
a cam and sling behind him, indicating
that either he was in the process of
setting protection or that it had come
out. (Source: From reports submitted
0 1738a New York, Mohonk
by Mohonk Preserve) Preserve,
Shawangunks, Various Routes
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error, New York, 2009
Mohonk Preserve, Shawnagunks, Various Routes
The rappel error incident was the
result of a climbing rope mid-point not
being correctly marked. The climber
(59), who had 36 years of experience,
rappelled off one end of the rope—
luckily for only ten feet. (Source:
From reports submitted by Mohonk
0 1738b Preserve)
Fall on Rock — Handhold Came Loose,2010 Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount
Alberta, Kananaskis Yamnuska
Country, Mount
Yamnuska
On May 23, a climber had a leader fall
approximately 140 metres up the
route Bottleneck (5.8, seven pitches)
on Mount Yamnuska. The leader
sustained a broken ankle. The party
was unable to self-rescue or descend
0 1782t
further. They waited on a ledge 125
Avalanche, Alaska, Mount McKinley 1992 Alaska, Mount McKinley
On April 25, 1991, Klass Wierenga
(27), Frank De Vos (26), Frank
Kleinbekman, and Matthijs Wiggers of
the Dutch Mount Foraker Expedition
were climbing near the 8000 foot level
on the 1974 Variation of the
Southeast Ridge of Mount Foraker. At
0 178t
a point just a few feet above the crest
 Base
Capitol Camp
Peakat(14,130 7,200 feet feet), toonethe of the
11,200-foot camp.
most challenging fourteeners in They did this
making
Colorado. single
Theycarries.
successfullyThe expedition
reached
took one rest day
the summit and were descending at the 11,200-foot
camp andNorthwest
along the then the followingRidge when day
Stranded — Benighted, Exposure — Inadequate
2010 made
Clothing
Flowers a
On Apriland carry
lost of
13,Equipment,
Steve gear
his footing to
(45),Late 13,500
Will
on aStart
(23),feet.
California,
snow/ice and Yosemite
When
patch the
Brent (22)
between team
set out moved
K2to andclimb from
Dalythe their
classic
Saddle.
9,500-foot
Lostfell
He andcamp
Arrow Spire
slid atto(twothepitches,
high 11,200-foot
speed through
camp,
5.8/5.10
snow Mr.
chutes Hearne
A2). and Steve needed
rockhad theuntilathe
climbed
bands
assistance
least 15
came to big
rest ofwalls
hisanguide
at the to
inelevation parkcarry over
of his30
12,500
gear
feet insled.
years, asrocky
a He had
well as
area. alsoprevious
five exhibited trips up
fatigue
the Spire.on the
Will day
and of his
Brent
Flowers initially survived the fall. His collapse
were good and
needed
free assistance
climbers, mostly withon
climbing partner called his own wife at his
short backpack
routes,
0 1815t on the last hill new
that leads
but
2:45 they
p.m. were
Friday and the up
to she park toward
contactedand
Stranded, Late Start — Benighted, Inadequate
2010 Clothing
Alberta,
Windy and Equipment,
Canadian
Corner. Weather,Mount
Rockies, Alberta, Canadian Rock
authorities in Aspen. The Pitkin
Norquay
Fatigue is common during these early
County Sheriff’s Office mobilized
On October
carries. The 24, two scramblers
distances are notagreat,
Mountain Rescue Aspen and Flight
started
but the up a difficult
amount food scramble
and gear on
that are
for Life helicopter, the first of which
Mount Norquay
required for 21 days in Banffon the National
mountain Park
had mechanical problems and was
at 1300.
make the They
loads reached
heavy. the ridge top
Elevation also
unable to depart from Frisco.
from thetoski
begins hill late in thefactor day. The
Authoritiesbewere a significant
able to maintain
weather hadtochanged
contributing many from overcast
individuals
0 1818t periodic cellphone contact with the
to overcast and
experiencing snowing
fatigue above lightly.
the By
Various Medical Problems, Alaska, Mount climbing partner.
2010McKinley
11,200-foot
A Denver-based camp. helicopter was sent
From the people
and due to the altitude, interviewed did anafter the
initial
incident, it appears that
fly-over before offloading some weight Mr. Heame
was not subjected
and dropping off a to any abnormal
paramedic. The
ascent regime or excessive
chopper then picked up Mountain physical
stress.
RescueFriends and family also
Aspen strike-team members
indicated
one at a time andwas
that he droppedin excellent
them off on
0 1820t physical
a knoll aboutcondition....
a mile and a half from
Bolt Hanger "Failure," Fall on Rock, Washington,
2010 Index, Upper
Washington,
Flowers. Town Wall
Index,
A Mountain Upper
Rescue Town Aspen Wall
While climbing
paramedic didn’t thereach
routeFlowers
“Callinguntil
Wolfgang”
6:25 p.m. When on thethe Upper Town Wall at
paramedic
the SportFlowers
arrived, Wall area didn’tI tookhave a 40-50
a pulsefall
nearly
and washitting the ground.
not breathing. The My fall was
the result ofperformed
paramedic not one but CPR,two which
bolt
hanger failures.
was unsuccessful. After climbing to the
third bolt approximately
Flowers reportedly had significant 45 feet up, I
0 1826t
weighted
injuries to his head, legs and back. to
the bolt with body weight He
Fall on Snow, Colorado, Capitol Peak, Northwest
2010 Ridge
was pronounced dead at the scene.
His friend was flown out Friday
evening. The three-person team spent
the night near the body. A helicopter
removed Flowers’ body from the
mountain Saturday morning. (Source:
From an article by Troy Hooper,
0 1850t Aspen Daily News, July 12, 2009)
Edited Title: Free-solo climber found dead,
2010Colorado, Clear Creek
Colorado Canyon,
....(Editor’s Highlander Crag
Note...
Another fatality was reported by Tim
Kline on Mountain Project web site.
Kline and his partner were climbing
Lovers Leap when they spotted a
body at the bottom of the cliff. The
unidentified free-solo climber had
been dead for a day or two. No further
0 1865a
information was available, but the key
 of
Yokumthe day, ridge.reaching
Below the terminusfirst of
the Whitneythe
gendarme, Glacier
party in the darkto
traversed and
the
dug
rightanother
crossingsnow cave for
Leuthold’s Couloirshelter
(their
belowbase-camp
the hourglass. wasTheyfarther east).
continued
The
southeastfollowing to themorning he continued
Reid Glacier
Inadequate Belay, Climber Lowered Off2010 his
End of Rope, descent
headwall
Colorado, and
Inadequate in ascended
Clear high winds
Equipment
Creek one and
— Rope
Canyon, oflow theToo Short, Colorad
visibility
gullies on
Highlander Cragandthe was eventually
headwall. found by
Climbing
For the Rangers
steeper at
climbing
On December 20, 2009, a 35-year-old a low the elevation.
party was
High
roped, winds,
man climbing snowfall,
with hisinand
with Gullberg thepoor
girlfriend lead.fell One20
visibility
to 25 feet. They were climbing in Mr.
of the restricted
last pictures the search
showed for
Gullberg
Bennett
anchored
Clear Creek onwithTuesday. OnHerb-a-Veg-
two self-equalized
Canyon on Wednesday ice
the
screws,search
A-Matic. base
presumably
Joe moved
Pierzchala, toclimbing
to belay thehis Weed on a
Airport
nearby and
companions. route, California
witnessed Highway
the fallPatrol and
0 1865b and Cal
It thisFire
is speculated
gives helicopters
account: that thereassistedwas an in
Inadequate Belay, Climber Lowered Off2010
End of Rope,
Colorado
the Inadequate
search.
accident with anEquipment
Poor weather
injury — Rope
conditions
to either Too Short, Colorad
Vietti
...
(high
or Nolan. winds Asand the low visibility)
stronger climber, limited
(Editor’s
flights
Gullberg and Note:
was they There
were
likely was one fatality
unsuccessful
descending the in
in the to
inserting
route Boulder
Climbing
get helpFalls area
Rangers
when heinhimself anywhere was
September
near
injured theduring
upperbutamountain.
there are not
fall. However, enough
Thursday his
details to
morning,
injuries provide
April
were 1, aamilitary
severe full narrative.
enough Chinook
to halt
What
helicopter
his we know
travel and is that
(Calsubsequently
Air Guard)a man was (40)
he ablefellto
whileoff
drop
succumbed being
three belayed
toClimbing on Rangers
hypothermia. the route and
0 1865c
Empor.
two
A SARNeither
meaningful members the below
analysis climber
cannot the norsummit
be
Overdue — Did Not Return, Unknown Cause
2010 of Fall, Oregon, Mount Hood, Sandy Glacier Headwall
at 14,000 feet. The temperature
conducted with the current unknowns was -
10
of theF, winds
accident. wereIt 20-30
does not mph and
appear
cloud cover route
that neither beganconditions,
to increase. After
weather,
extensive searching, they
nor party experience should were have able
an
to
unduefind the rime-covered
contribution to themarkers
cause ofleft the
by Mr. Thomas
accident. (Source: andFromeventually
a report Mr.
Bennett’s
submitted body. by JeffThe autopsy
Sheetz, showed
Portland
0 1867t that
Mountain Mr. Bennett
Rescue) had died of High
Unroped, Altitude
Fall on Rock — Loose Rock, Climbing 2011 ClimbingCerebral
Colorado, Alone, Edema (HACE).
RockyColorado,
Mountain Rocky
National Mountain National Pa
Analysis
Park, Longs Peak, The Diamond,
Both
On August of the 27 climbers
at 8:00involved
a.m., two had NPS
excellent equipment and
Climbing Rangers on the third pitch of several
years
YellowofWall mountaineering
on The Diamond experience.heard
Illness was the immediate
rockfall and saw several large cause rocksof
this fatality. Weather the
and a person falling in the vicinity of contributory
cause.
Broadway Ledge (a large ledge at the
0 1885t Weather usually startsnear
6–12the hours
base of the Diamond) top of
Fall on Rock while Rappelling, Miscommunication,
1992 Arizona,
Arizona,
earlier Flagstaff,
onFlagstaff,
the mountain Takes
Takes than aa Thief
Thief
it does in
On
town, November
with high11, winds1991, andTim lowReid visibility
(31) was climbing
common. Although many people with Rachel Perch
(39) when the following
associate serious high altitude illness accident
occurred:
with higher elevations, both HACE
AfterHAPE
and completingoccur aonlead Mt. IShasta,
clipped at off
two anchor
14,162 feet.bolts
Fromand thecalled
description off belay.
I untied my
provided byrope and threaded
Mr. Thomas, the early it
0 189t
through the
warning signs anchor chains.
of altitude illnessI then
HACE, Weather, California, Mount Shasta
2011Wilderness
common with Acute Mountain
Sickness (AMS), which can develop
into HACE, were not noticed or
reported, and Mr. Bennett
deteriorated rapidly with HACE.
(Source: Eric White, USFS Lead
Climbing Ranger)
1 1907t ...
 definitive
climbing medical
party but care
ratherin bya timely
other
The climbing
manner. Patient routecarewhere
was the injury
expedited
climbers
happened andwas guides
in goodwho happened
shape, to
by
be experienced
on the mountain. climbers
In a and
popularmedical
although
personnel warm
who saw snowthe conditions
signsas could
ofMount
HAPE
mountain
have played environment
a role. The such
climber was
and HACE
Rainier, peopleand reacted
often seemquickly.
to rely on
wearing
One a helmet
thingCleaver
to note, when he fell,
though, isofthat which
the
Fall on Snow, Washington, Mount Rainier, 2011Disappointment
the presence and expertise other
very
signs possibly
and symptoms saved him from further
of HAPE and
more
injury, experienced
as the helmet climbers
was rather
cracked
HACE
than were
using not
theirHe reported
own or reacted to
during
early ontheby fall.
the peopledidknowledge
sustain
in the a and
patients’
skills to make
fractured decisions.but it was
C-7 vertebra,
climbing
Another party
large but rather byfactor
contributing otherto
repaired
climbers with no known
and guides who loss of neuro-
happened to
altitude
functions. emergencies
(Source: on Mount
Edited from a
be on
Rainier the
has mountain.
to do Self, In a
with peoplepopular living at
report
mountain by Cooper
environment Climbing
such ascoming
Mount
0 1955t relatively
Ranger) low elevations, then
Rainier, people often
to the mountain and ascending fromseem to rely on
HAPE and ..., Washington, Mount Rainier, 2011CamptheMuirpresence and expertise of other
approximately sea level to 14,410 feet
more
withinexperienced
48 hours. These climbers
rapidrather
ascents,
than using their own knowledge
especially when the person climbing and
skills to make decisions.
might not have much experience with
Another large contributing
altitude, leaves little time for factor to
the body
altitude emergencies on
to properly acclimate. (Source: Edited Mount
Rainier has toby
from a report doCooper
with people
Self, living at
0 1959a relatively low
Climbing Ranger) elevations, then coming
to the mountain and ascending from
... HACE, Washington, Mount Rainier, 2011 Camp Muir
approximately sea level to 14,410 feet
within 48 hours. These rapid ascents,
especially when the person climbing
might not have much experience with
altitude, leaves little time for the body
to properly acclimate. (Source: Edited
from a report by Cooper Self,
0 1959b Climbing Ranger)
Inadequate Belay, Fall on Rock, No Hard 2011
Hat, Idaho, CityCity
Idaho, of Rocks
of Rocks National
NationalReserve, Twist and Crawl
Reserve, Twist and Crawl
Twist and Crawl is about a 35-39-
meter route. The leader (53) of the
route, clipped draws to the anchor
chains and was to be lowered off. The
belayer’s (mid-50s) end of the rope
wasn’t tied to her and she let the 60-
0 1964a
meter rope end slide through the
Edited Title:, Fall on Rock,... Idaho, City
2011
of RocksIdaho,
National Reserve,
...There wasTwistone andother Crawl
report
from Idaho this year. Two young men
were off-route on Sturs Chimney on
Mount Heyburn in the Sawtooth
Wilderness area when one of them
fell about 50 feet, resulting in a sprain
and fracture. The good news is that
they negotiated the terrain, including
0 1964b
many miles of hobbling. They made it
Fall on Rock, Improper Rappel Anchor 1992 Replacement, Inexperience,
California, Yosemite California,
Valley,Yosemite
Royal Valley, Royal Ar
Arches—Devil’s Bathtub
On October 16, 1991, James Murphy
(25) fell over 100 feet when his rappel
anchor came loose from the tree
around which it had been placed. An
interview with Mike Poulin (27),
Murphy’s climbing partner, revealed
1 196t
the following:
 changes in blood sugar level, changes
in blood pressure, electrolyte
imbalance, and a higher risk of heart
arrhythmias. Brian Young was
described by all those who climbed
Various Stranded Climbers, Wyoming, 2011
Devils Tower
with National
Wyoming,
him onDevilsMonument,
Mount Tower Devils Tower
National
McKinley as strong
Monument,
and healthy,Devils
with theTower
exception of
On October
those 30th, rangers
who climbed with himreceived
above a
phone call
17,200 feet.from
On Crook County
his summit climb,
dispatch
Young was regarding
reporteda as group of bouts
having
climbers
of ataxia and vomited severalthe
who were stuck on south
times.
side of Devils Tower with
Despite suggestions from his summita rope
caught
partners, in Young
a crack.did They
not had no he
feel like
1 1975t Kentucky, Red River Gorge, Muir
headlamps or proper
had any reason to seek medicalcold weather
Cardiac Arrest, Alaska Alaska, Mount McKinley,
2012 West Buttress
Valley
assistance once he was back at the
On April 22, camp.
17,200-foot a male climber (40) was
nearing the
Although medical top of resources
a short dihedral on
are very
a trad route called “Short
limited at the high camp, timely and Sweet”
(5.7),
medical located at the Practice
intervention might have Wall. He
been
took a lead fall, causing his
helpful in averting the final outcome.upper
protection
(Source: Coley pieces to pop Lead
Gentzel, out, causing
0 1979t him
Mountaineering Ranger) sustained a
to hit the ground. He
crushed vertebra. He was carefully
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Kentucky,
2012 Red River Gorge
packaged onto a spine board, placed
in a litter, and delivered to an awaiting
helicopter.
Analysis
This accident was caused by
tenuously placed gear. The climber
commented that he should have put in
0 1999a more pieces. (Source: Rick Weber)
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error — Failed to2012
Clip into On
Anchor
AprilCalifornia,
18, DaveJoshuaPinegarTree
hadNational Park, Saddle Ro
lowered his partner from the route
Walk on the Wild Side to the next
anchor with his belay device. The
partner clipped in to the anchor and
yelled, “Off rappel.” The next thing the
partner knew was that Dave was
flying by him. Dave was found at the
0 2002t
bottom with the rope attached to his
HAPE/HACE, Failure to Descend Alaska, 2012
Mount On McKinley, Browne
the morning of Tower
June 29, Russian
and American climbers Alexander
Kharkovskiy (52) and Sergie Loz (58)
began ascending from Browne Tower
to an intended high camp on the
upper Harper Glacier. An NPS patrol
led by ranger Chris Erickson observed
them to be moving extremely slowly,
0 2013t
taking nearly six hours to move less
Fall on Rock — Rappel Error, Fatigue, 2012
Possible Haste, Washington,
Washington, Beacon
Beacon Rock
Rocks State Park
State
Park
On July 24, Nathan Turner (30) and
his partner were in the second rappel
of “Jill’s Thrill,” a common descent
route for the area. The first rappel
placed the two climbers onto a small
ledge without incident. They lowered
0 2037t
safely onto the ledge and setup their
 requested
feet
As from
an aside assistance.
theirnote,campsite.
many Despite
Pilegaard,
of the guidethe low
were
visibility former
and guide
high service
winds, employees.
rescuers
who
services
The was were
guides relatively
were involved
theuninjured,
in this
initial was able
reporting
from
to drag
operation Portland
his two
due Mountain
tocompanions
the fact Rescue
that back
this to
was
parties
reached andhim with
about the10 patients
hours until
later. the
their
the
rangers campsite,
Camp tookPatriot where
overhe summit
during they waited
climb
thenumerous for
which
During
two
is a days, this
benefit delay
hoping
climb the
for placed
injuries
disabled would
extrication
calls to friends,process. even (Source:
texting aBrian
Illness ...), Washington, Mount Rainier 2012 respond
veterans. toMany
rest Ranger
and
of the treatment.
guide On
services
Hasebe
message – Park
to adetermining
Facebook and
page. Mount Later
July
had
Rainier 25,
been after
donating
News Releases) their own Knudsen
communication
and Bo Silver or wouldattemptsbe byaable
SAR
employees
(Editor’s
managers Note:
to this isnot
resources
facilitate aKish’sin
good to
volunteer
rescueon
walk,
capacity. the
illustration trio
Some called
of how of thefor
thedead assistance
party
park’scell leaders
rangers
failed
an
were because
aviation
former radio,
guideof his
hoping
service toemployees.
make phone
and
battery.support services such as Fort
contact
The guides
Lewis-McChord withwere an aircraft
the initial
work providing
together reporting
to
"Analysis
scenic
parties over-flights
and with the of the
patients mountain.
until theA
provide
Climbers help
shouldfor climbers
not -
rely solely and hikers
on cell
0 2065a Talkeetna
rangers
-phones
in need.) tookAir Taxi
over plane
during heard
the the
call to
and notified
extrication initiate
process. a rescue.
the National
(Source: Park In this
Brian
Frostbite..., Washington, Mount Rainier2012 event,
Hasebethe
Service at cell
11:30
– Park phone
a.m. (and
Ranger andautomatic
Mount
GPS
NPS
Rainier data
set intransmitted,
News action a plan
Releases) viatoE911)
establish was
instrumental
two-way
(Editor’s Note: in rescuing
communication
this is a good Kish
with the
successfully"
climbers
illustrationinof order
howto the determine
park’s rangers the
"Climbers
nature
and support andusingextent cell
services of phones
their asforFort
suchinjuries,
emergencies
location,
Lewis-McChord and othershould
work limit
details
togethercalls and
surrounding
to
conserve
their
provide status battery
helpand life.
for situation. This
climbers -This may
and plan hikers
0 2065b include
also placing/answering
included
- in need.) dropping the only teamcriticala
calls,
supply following
of food, instructions
fuel, and from SAR
equipment,
Failure to Follow Route, Stranded, 2013
Weather Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side Route
managers,
as nothing was followingknown a predetermined
about their
call-back schedule,
available resources. and leaving the
phone
The NPS contract helicopter calls
turned off in between was ableto
save
to deliver the drop bag to high camp,to
the battery. Phones also need
be
andkepttwo-waywarmcommunication
and dry to maximize was
battery
established betweenperformance.
and display the team and the
In a separate
(Source:
incident incident
Jeff Scheetz,
command team on inJune
Portland 25,
Talkeetna.
0 2083t guides
Mountain from an
Rescue.)" Alpine
The NPS staff formulated a plan to Ascents
Fall on Rock, Solo Bouldering, Inexperience
2013 International
Maine, Acadia
Rangers
carry out rescued
an expedition
National
evacuation Park,people
two on theseriously
Monument
of all West
team Cove
Buttress contacted
injured in separate
members starting atfallingrangers
8 theaccidents at the
following in
14,200-foot
early June. ...
morning. campTwobecause
days later, oneonofthe
their
afternoon
The clients
NPS contract (53)
of June 10, was experiencing
rangersmade
helicopter
signs
received
three andasymptoms
successive911 call offrom
reporting
trips altitude that a
base
illness.
23-year-old
camp Doctor
to highwoman Andy
camp and Luks evaluatedall
had evacuated
fallen
him
threeat“Hellthe ranger
approximately 30 facility.
Tourist” toteam
35 feet. Dr. Upon
members Luks to
believed
arrival,
base camp, thatfound
they the client
where that
theythe was
were suffering
Montana
0 2154t from HAPE, and he was treated
woman
transferred to waiting LifeMedthe
had been bouldering airsea
Avalanche Alaska, Denali National2013
Park, Mt. McKinley,
accordingly.West Buttress
He remained in the care
ambulances. The uninjured climber
of the NPS until June
was flown back to Talkeetna and 29, when his
condition
provided aand the weather
detailed accountimproved of the
enough for his
events to NPS personnel. team to walk him down
(Source:
the mountain while
Denali National Park and Preserve he was on
supplemental
News, July 26,oxygen. 2012, and(Sources: Coley
Chris Erickson,
Gentzel, Lead Mountaineering Mountaineering
0 2176t Ranger,
Ranger.)and Coley Gentzel, Lead
Mountaineering Ranger.)
HAPE...Alaska, Denali National Park,
2013Mt. McKinley, West Buttress
(Editor’s note: AMS, HAPE, and
HACE are common occurrences on
Denali, the great majority of which are
experienced by guided clients. The
latter fact is just the luck of the draw,
because guides bring their clients to
critical altitudes at a reasonable
0 2179a pace....
 International (ALP) were able to
successfully lower/pendulum the
climber from Denali Pass to
approximately 17,400 feet. A National
Park Service (NPS) patrol responded
HAPE...Alaska, Denali National Park,
2013Mt. McKinley, West Buttress
to this team’s request for help,
brought the patient into camp, and
rendered medical assistance. No
improvement was noted in the
patient’s condition after 14 hours of
medical care, so he was evacuated
from the 17,200-foot camp via the
0 2179b NPS contract helicopter.
HAPE, HACE, Frostbite, Alaska, Mount1992 McKinley
Alaska, Mount McKinley
On May 22, 1991, Korean Kim
Hongbim (32), who was camped at
Denali Pass at 18,200 feet on the
West Buttress Route on Mount
McKinley, became seriously ill with
severe AMS and high altitude
pulmonary edema. Hongbim was
0 217a
lowered to the 17,200 foot camps by
HAPE, HACE, Frostbite, Alaska, Mount1992 McKinley
Alaska, Mount McKinley
... In a related incident on May 23,
Geo Bong Kim (35) of the Korean
Mokpo University Expedition, became
seriously ill with high altitude cerebral
edema while camped at 17,200 feet
on the West Buttress. Kim was
lowered down the Rescue Gully to
0 217b
14,200
On feet by
October 6 amembers of his(35)
male climber own
Fall on Rock, Failure to Clip Bolt Kentucky,
2014 Red River Gorge, Muir Valley
took a long lead fall while reaching
high for a bolt. His fall caused him to
impact a tree. He suffered broken
ribs, a punctured/ collapsed lung, and
broken scapula, requiring surgical
repair. (Source: Rick Weber, Muir
Valley.)
0 2195t Analysis (Source: Aram Attarian.)
Stranded - New and Unexpected Situation,
2014Exceeding Abilities2,California,
On August Yosemite (both
Carl and Michelle National Park, Lambe
from Canada) climbed Northwest
Books (5.6). The descent is second-
or third-class, but they found
themselves on some slabs that
Michelle was afraid to cross, despite
her 5.7 climbing ability. Carl built a
rappel anchor, but by this time, per
0 2227ta
Carl, Michelle was “freaked out”:
Fall on Rock Wyoming, Grand Teton National
2014 Park,
On Garnet Canyon,
September Petzoldt Caves
6, between 5:30 and
5:45 p.m., Edward Tom (40) fell 80–
100 feet to his death while scrambling
within the camping area known as the
Petzoldt Caves Camping Zone. Tom
had a two-night camping permit for
Petzoldt Caves, but when he arrived a
large climbing party already occupied
0 2227tb
the primary tent pads. One member of
 climbing the mountain. We told them
about the accident and where the
stricken group was. They continued
up, finding the climbers around 4 a.m.
They were unable to reach the group
Fall on Rock Utah, Little Cottonwood Canyon, because
2014 Wheels of Fire
On August they were
2Direct
an on the other
experienced side
climber,
of
David Buckland (46), was out withahis
the crevasse, but they sent out
911 call. he took a fall on Wheels on
son when
Around
Fire Direct the(5.10)
same in time a ranger
Little Cottonwood
arrived
Canyon, a route he had6done
at our camp. At a.m. many
another
party started going up to
times before. He pulled a piece on the the accident
site
way while
down,the gotranger
flippedbuilt a helipad.
by the rope,
The rescue party
and slammed his got to the
hip into thecrevasse
wall,
0 2236t around
causing9hip a.m.,
andand ankleoneinjuries.
of themHis was son
Fall on Rock, Free Solo Climbing North2014
Carolina,A Pisgah
male National
lowered climber
into the(18) Forest,
was
crevasse Blackto Fork
seriously
bring the
injured
victims in somea fallextra
on August
jackets3and at the
water.
Black were
They Rockeventually
climbing area, located
long-lined fromin
Grandfather
the mountain by Ranger
helicopter District
later of
that
Pisgah National Forest, near the
afternoon.
Linville Gorge Wilderness Area. He
Analysis
was free soloing
Arresting a fall onCrazy snow,River (5.9) in
especially
when
icy he fell approximately
conditions, is not a sure 60 feet to
thing.
0 2244a
the ground,
Most self-arrest fracturing
practice hisisface
done andin
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection 2014 On September 2, John “Amos”
fairly ideal snow conditions, and does
Ridenour (35), a Gallatin County
not take into account factors such as
sheriff’s deputy, died after falling while
exhaustion and surprise. Tunnel
rock climbing in Hyalite Canyon, 10
vision was also in play here, as none
miles south of Bozeman. He had gone
of the climbers had noticed the
to Practice Rock with his son and
crevasse before they fell in. The team
neighbor early on Labor Day morning
was probably excessively tired as
to teach the boy how to climb, said
0 2244b well, though this is a difficult thing to
Sheriff Brian Gootkin.
Fall on Rock, Lowering Error Maine, Acadia assess,
2014 National
On JulyPark, asThe
17, itAndrea
was notCampanella
Precipice, particularly
Old Town(47),
noticeable when
a guide with a local climbingwe saw them near
the summit.
company, was guiding two older
Climbers
teenagers1on and the 3 South
were both Wallfairly
of
experienced,
Champlain Mountain when2he
and Climber hadfell to
received
the ground alldue
the appropriate
to a loweringtraining,
error.
but
Thehadexact little experience.
sequence Overall,
of events the
is not
team
clear, was
due well prepared.
to memory Theyand
deficits, hadhas
0 2247t plenty of warm clothing
been reconstructed fromand a bivy
Fall on Snow Oregon, Mt. Hood, Hogsback 2014 On
sack.November
It took 1525, John
hours Andrews
before they(62)
fell
received any real assistance, “crater”
more than 200 feet into a so the
(sic)
extranear
clothingthe Hogsback
they had was area, alongto
crucial
the south-side
their survival. route. Andrews’
climbing
An additionalpartner note: used
Tryatocellmake phonesure to
call right
the 911, people
then remained in contact
are contacted when
with calls
one the Clackamas
911. It wasn’t Countyuntil Sheriff’s
the
Search and
second call, Rescue
about Unit,hours
eight whichlater,
0 2256t
coordinated
that search and the rescue.
rescue was actually
Fall on Snow, Fall into Crevasse - Fatigue,
2014Unable to Self Arrest Washington, Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glaci
notified. The first 911 call had reached
the park office, but it was closed.
(Source: Alan Trick, friend of Climber
1.) (Editor’s note: We received two
separate reports on the same
incident, and below we offer the
second report, from the Rainier ranger
02262-2234 staff, for its additional perspective.)
 rappel rope to the top anchor if ever
there is a question of rope
unevenness.

5. Always tie separate knots at each

Rappel Error - Ropes Uneven and No Knots
2014 in Ends, Miscommunication New York, Adirondacks, Chapel
end of the rope and feed the rope
evenly through the top anchor until
the halfway mark is reached.

6. Always use a backup in case the

ropes begin to run out of control
through the rappel device. (Source:
0 2269f Tom Yandon.)
Rappel Error, No Knots on Ends of Rope 2014
West Virginia, New River
On Monday, Gorge National
September River, Star Trek Wall
23, National
Park Service rangers responded to a
climbing accident at Star Trek Wall. A
male climber (age unknown) had
rappelled off the end of his rope and
fell about 35 feet. He sustained lower
limb and back injuries in the fall.
Rescuers had to carry the victim out
0 2270f
of the area more than one mile over
Stranded, Exceeding Abilities Washington,
2014NorthOn Cascades National
July 28 a partyPark, Black
of four fromPeak
the
Seattle area attempted the northeast
ridge of Black Peak (8,970 feet). The
climbers split into two rope teams, but
quickly found that the first rope team
was ascending at a faster pace. The
first rope party summited the peak
and then descended the south face
1 2275t
back to their camp, having lost
Fall on Rock, Rockfall Canada, Alberta,2014
KeelhaulOn Wall, Kid
July 13Goat
a climber dislodged a rock
on pitch four of Kid Goat, which struck
his belayer on the left ankle, fracturing
it. The injured climber phoned for a
rescue after a self-assessment. While
Kananaskis Public Safety (KPS) was
responding, the party of two continued
to self-rescue and rappel the route.
0 2284t
When KPS arrived on the scene the
Rappel Error, Stranded – Failed to Follow
2015
Directions
On October
Colorado,
11,Boulder,
at approximately
First Flatiron
7:15
p.m., several 911 calls came in to the City
of Boulder Communications Center,
stating that someone was yelling for help
in the area of the First Flatiron.
Temperatures at that time were in the low
50s (F), with light winds and clear skies.
As emergency personnel began to stage
0 2329a
near the base of the First Flatiron, Open
Edited Title: Solo FallColorado, Boulder,
2015
First Flatiron
... In November a soloist fell from the 5.6
friction-slab crux of the direct east face of
the First Flatiron, about 40 feet above the
ground, and suffered serious injuries.
(Source: The Editors.)

0 2329b
 Fall on Rock – Suspected Rockfall, Climbing
2015 AloneOnWyoming,
the morningGrand Teton, Upper
of August Exum Ridge
8, a solo
climber sustained life-threatening
injuries in a fall while attempting the
Grand Teton. Steve Markusen (60)
was climbing midway between the
Friction Pitch and V-Pitch on the
Upper Exum Ridge when the accident
occurred. Two climbers in a separate
0 2364f
party came upon Markusen, but did
Fall on Snow - Poor Position Canada, British
2015 Columbia,
On July Rogers Pass,
28, two Mt. Sifton climbers
experienced
planned to ascend the southeast ridge
(4th class) of Mt. Sifton from their
Hermit Meadows camp. The weather
conditions were perfect and the climb
proceeded as planned. The pair
topped out on Sifton’s east ridge
about 70 vertical meters below and
0 2370t
250 meters horizontally from the
Late-Night Tumble in Talus Colorado, Maroon
2015 BellsMountain Rescue Aspen was called
on a rescue mission on the afternoon
of Saturday, August 15, 2010. A
climber on the Maroon Bells near
Aspen reportedly had fallen and
tumbled down the Bell Cord Couloir,
separating North and South Maroon
Bells. This couloir has been the site of
0 2383a
numerous fatalities.
Edited Title: Fatal Fall at Bell Cord CouloirColorado,
2015 Maroon
Mountain Bells Aspen was called
Rescue
on a rescue mission on the afternoon
of Saturday, August 15, 2010. A
climber on the Maroon Bells near
Aspen reportedly had fallen and
tumbled down the Bell Cord Couloir,
separating North and South Maroon
Bells. This couloir has been the site of
0 2383b
numerous fatalities.... He had
Falling Object, Inadequate Protection, Fall
1990on Rock, California,
California, YosemiteValley
Yosemite Valley
On June 22, 1989, about 1100,
Trenton Cladouhos (23) was on the
sixth pitch of the standard route,
Northwest Face, Half Dome, climbing
and trailing a haul line. His haul bag
was on a ledge, unclipped, near the
belay at the top of pitch five, from
0 23t
where his partner, Richard Treadwell
Fall on Rock, Old Piton Broke, Maryland,1992Delaware Water Gap
Maryland, NRA, Mount
Delaware WaterTammany
Gap NRA,
Mount Tammany
On August 11, 1991, Mike Morlock
(16) and Rick Lago (24) had finished
climbing the Rib (5.3) and started
climbing Triumvirate (5.4). Mike led
the first pitch to a ledge, set up an
anchor system, and Rick started
0 242t
following. Rick got nervous and
 At the Mohonk Preserve ...
Fall on rock, rappel error,New York, Shawangunks
2016 (Mohonk Preserve)
A 27-year-old climber sustained
fractures to the lumbar spine while
rappelling off Horseman, a 5.5 in the
Trapps. The climber fell approximately
At
15 thefeet.Mohonk Preserve
It is thought ...A soloing
the rappel was
fatality occurred when
done with unveven rope ends. an experienced
46-year-old
(Source: Andrew climber fell 50Chief
Bajardi, feet or
0 2438a more feet while soloing
Ranger, Mohonk Preserve.) Cascading
Crystal Kaleidoscope (5.7) in the
Fatal fall on rock, solo climb, ropedNew2016
York, Shawangunks (Mohonk Preserve)
Trapps. The climber was wearing a
harness with a dynamic rope tied to a
loop on its back. The cause of the fall
is unknown, but it is thought the
climber had reached the Grand
At the Mohonk
Traverse LedgePreserve...
when he fell. (Source:
A serious
Andrew Bajardi,injury took
Chiefplace
Ranger,when a 28-
0 2438b year-old climber
Mohonk Preserve.) fell leading the start
of CCK Direct, which starts off the GT
Lead climbing fall on rockNew York, Shawangunks
2016 (Mohonk Preserve)
ledge. The climber fell approximately
10 feet and sustained an open lower
leg fracture. In several other
accidents, lower leg fractures were
sustained when climbers impacted a
ledge, despite being belayed.
(Source: Andrew Bajardi, Chief
0 2438c Ranger, Mohonk Preserve.)
Fall on Ice Oregon, Mt. Jefferson, Jefferson
2016Park Glacier
A husband and wife team of
experienced climbers, ages 32 and
29, were attempting to summit via the
Jefferson Park Glacier on November
29. The two had to maneuver around
a crevasse field and past an area of
rockfall, and they encountered much
hard ice on the glacier surface. They
0 2441a
crossed over to the Whitewater
Fall on Ice Oregon, Mt. Jefferson, Jefferson
2016Park Glacier
...
Editor’s note: Another fatality on a
central Oregon volcano occurred on
September 20. A 22-year-old man fell
approximately 700 feet after unroping
atop the small summit pinnacle of
Three Fingered Jack. Appropriate
anchor systems should be maintained
0 2441b
in such exposed locations.
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection New2016
Hampshire, Barber Wall,
On Sunday, AugustCathedral Ledge State
30, a climber fell Park
40 feet near the top of Double Vee, a
popular but tricky-to-protect 5.9 at the
Barber Wall on Cathedral Ledge.
While he had four pieces of protection
in, all but one (a number three
Camalot ten feet above the ground)
ripped out, resulting in a ground fall.
0 2453a
An EMT was at the Barber Wall, and
 The subjects
helicopter. The were treated and
challenging terrain
evacuated to a
kept rescuers from being lower part able
of the to put
glacier,
McFarlinwhere they were picked
on a backboard to protect up by
an Army National Guard
his fractured femur, but he was also helicopter.
ANALYSIS
lifted into the chopper. Both men were
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection New
2016
Hampshire,
... the
"On Barber Wall,snowCathedral Ledge theState Park
taken to 50° Wenatchee slope
ValleywhereHospital
Editor’s
slide note: A similar must
initiated,climbers accident be
for treatment.
occurred at
proficient at the
ice North End of and
axe self-arrest
Cathedral
roped team Ledge
arrest. in An
June, when a 25-
unarrested fall
ANALYSIS
year-old
of 10 to 20 man leading Kiddy Crack
(5.7)
feet pulled two pieces ofenergy
protection
The develops
climbers each too much
had about to a
half be
and
stoppedfell abyreported
tackling. 50 feet
The to theclimber
lower
dozen years of mountaineering and
ground.
would He was
have had wearing
more a helmet,
success if he
0 2453b rock climbing experience but were
which
had may
immediately have prevented
fallen into a serious
the self-
2016 Mt.new
Fall on Snow – Failure to Self Arrest Oregon, Hood, to South
technicalSidealpine ice routes.
arrest position and let
After the incident, they acknowledgedthe rope catch
the falling partner.
they would have been better off This climb and
descent
choosingare normally
a less done without
demanding route or
belays
taking or
alongprotection.
somebody An unarrested
with more
Editor’s
roped note:
fall may On the
pullthe same
offsemi-
multiple day, also
experience.
in the Mazama With Chute, a 29-year-old
climbers
consolidated and/or snowentangle other teams
they encountered
solo
on climber
this busy fell
climb.approximately
(Source: 450
Jeff
during
feet, the climb,
ending his theyinshould
slide a have
fumarole,
0 2465a Scheetz,
used Portlandburied Mountain Rescue.)"
when horizontally
a crampon malfunction pickets for
Fall on Snow – Failure to Self Arrest Oregon,
2016 Mt.anchors
Hood, South rather Sidethan vertically driving
prompted him to stop his descent and
them
then slip.in and Heclipping
was unable the top hole of
to self-
the picket. Also, McFarlin
arrest. Portland Mountain Rescue was
impatient
personnelto finish thethe
observed lastfallpitch
andand pulled
get out of the cold gully,
him from the fumarole 26 minutes so he
climbed
later. The straight
climberthrough
had only challenging
minor
conditions
injuries and was lucky therather
on the cornice fumarole than
0 2465b stopping to establish
gases were non-lethal. a better anchor
to protect the crux.
Fall on Snow – Inadequate Protection Washington,
2016 Mt. Stuart, Ice Cliff Glacier
The two had packed well for an
emergency, with extra layers, space
blankets, lightweight sleeping bag,
and personal locater beacon. In
retrospect, they wished they also had
put a stove in their summit pack.
0 2469t (Source: Edward McFarlin.)
Rappel Error – Inadequate Anchor Nevada,
2016Red Rock
... National Conservation Area, Oak Creek Canyon
Editor’s note: Another Red Rock
rappelling fatality occurred in March,
when Todd Jenkins, 41, fell to the
ground in Black Velvet Canyon. The
experienced climber had completed a
sport route that was too long for
lowering. He went off-belay and
0 2476a
threaded the rope at the anchor,
Rappel Error – Inadequate Anchor Nevada,
2016Red Rock National Conservation
On December Area, Oak Creek Canyon
26, three climbers
finished the classic three-pitch route
Johnny Vegas (5.7) in Red Rock’s
Oak Creek Canyon. The three
stopped for a brief lunch at about 11
a.m. on the terrace at the top of
Johnny Vegas to consider whether
they should continue up Solar Slab or
0 2476b
rappel to the ground. Because of the
 weight. Either way, Hagan failed to
inspect his anchor adequately. Both
Hagan and the previous day’s party
were at the anchor near dark and may
have felt time pressure. Hagan’s
Rappel Error – Inadequate Anchor, Failure
2016To Check Knot Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park, Sluisk
belayer said the climb took twice as
long as anticipated and was cold and
windy, so Hagan was likely tired and
rushed. A second, redundant anchor
On
likelyNovember
would have 8, aprevented
23-year-old themale
climber
accident.was leadingDan
(Source: a pitch
van on dertheElst,
West Bluff,
NPS Ranger.) belayed from the ground
0 2477t by
... a friend. He had just set his second
piece of protection, at approximately
Rockfall Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side2016 ...
25 to 30 feet, when he fell. The top
Editor’s note: On June 4, a 66-year-
piece pulled out, and the lower one
old, experienced climber slipped at
failed as well. The lower piece was
around 10,500 feet on the South Side
still placed in the rock, with a sling
Route, and the unroped climber fell
attached but no carabiner connecting
about 400 feet to the Hot Rocks area.
it to the rope; the carabiner remained
His party quickly reached him and
attached to the rope and fell to the
attempted CPR, but were unable to
0 2479a ground with the climber. The victim
revive him. The climber did not
Rockfall Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side2016 fell
Caseyapproximately
Ferguson, age 25 feet
27, and
was was
struck
unconscious for about 25
by a boulder while descending a chute seconds.
He
justindicated
below thehe had injuries
summit on June to his
14.
right wrist and right hip
The microwave-size and
rock was
fractured
concerned
her lower leg. aboutThreea back
otherinjury. His
helmet
companions was scuffed
managed andtocracked.
dodge the
(Wisconsin
boulder, after Department of Natural
a climber above them
Resources Visitor Accident
yelled, “Rock!” Ferguson’s teammates Report.)
0 2479b ANALYSIS
and nearby climbers applied a splint
Avalanche – Poor Position Canada, Alberta,
2016 BanffInadequate
AtNational
5:30 a.m. Park,onPolar
protection Circus
Februarywas5,placed.
two
climbers
The rock set out to climb
at Devil’s Polar
Lake can beCircus,
a 700-meter
slippery ice climb onto
and challenging Mt. Cirrus. It
protect,
had gear
and snowed must lightly overnight
be placed withandextra
continued
care in thetojagged
snow rock,
duringusing
the day.
slings
Laterquickdraws
and in the afternoon, they observed
for extension to keep
snow sloughing
protection off the steep
from rotating out ofcliffs
place.
adjacent to the climb.
It’s unclear if the lower piece The climbers
was
0 2488t
reached
never clippedthe top at 4 p.m.
properly andrope
to the began or if
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection Wisconsin,
2016 Devil's Lake State Park, West Bluff
it became detached as the climber
moved above it. Using a locking
carabiner to clip a route’s first piece of
pro to the rope can provide some
additional security.
This climber’s helmet may prevented
a much more significant injury.
0 2493a (Source: The Editors.)
Fall on Rock – boulderingWisconsin, Devil's
2016 Lake State Park, West Bluff
Editor’s note: Other climbing
accidents at Devil’s Lake in 2015
included a bouldering fall in which a
35-year-old woman broke her lower
leg when her foot hit a rock before
landing on the pads below the
0 2493b problem. …
 Saguache County SAR (SAGSAR),
Climbers
Custer County at theSAR scene.)(CCSAR), and
ANALYSIS
Western Mountain Rescue Team
This
(WMRT) fall became
of Gunnison serious primarily
County
because of skipping
responded to the incident. available
protection prior to reaching the crux of
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection, No
2016
Helmet West Virginia, Summerville Lake, Coliseum
the route. Additionally,
A Blackhawk helicopterthe from climber
the High
was not wearing a helmet
Altitude Army Aviation Site (HAATS) that could
have
was in the area on another SARhead
prevented or reduced the
injuries sustained
mission on Blancafrom Peak. theAfter
fall. For
information on how to
completing that mission and refueling, identify and
assess head injuries,
seven CCSAR climbers were see “Essentials:
Head
transported Injuries” in Accidents
to the Cottonwood 2015.
0 2494t (Source: R. Bryan Simon.)...
drainage at approximately 6 p.m. The
Falling Ice – Poor Position Canada, Alberta,
2016 GhostOn River
helicopter Valley
February then 2, transported
a party of two fivewas
ascending a four-pitch
members of WMRT to the scene, WI5 ice route and
Several
called Sorcerer.
EagleMed accidents
SalidaLow ... occurred
on the
inserted two in the
route, one
Red
of theGully
SAGSAR on the
climbers was
personnel, standard
struck route
by
for a total ofup
falling
14
14,294-foot
ice. He
field was Crestone
personnel. lowered toPeak.
Conditions inAlthough
the ground the
itcouloir
faces
and a rescue south,
included this
waswet rocky
requested gully
rock, running oftena
using
holds
SPOT device.
water, snow well
snow, and into July,
A multi-agency
ice. presenting
rescue
mountaineering
ensued. The injured challenges
climberon was what is
0 2502t otherwise a 3rd-class scramble.
treated
The for head
patient and neck injuries
was stabilized and then and
Falls on Snow and Rock Colorado, Sangre2016de Cristo Range, Crestone Peak
lowered in a Stokes litter, in difficult
On
terrain Sunday
and in afternoon,
darkness,atto2 ap.m., landing
CCSAR was
zone in the Cottonwood again activated,
Basin,this time
from
to assist Anika Jimenez
which she was airlifted to Crestone at (23), who
also
1 a.m. fellShe
in the
was Red Gully on to
transferred Crestone
the
Peak and had an ankle
hospital for treatment of several injury. With a
splinted ankle, she was
serious injuries, including a closed able to hike
0 2503a out to the South Colony
pneumothorax (collapsed lung). Lakes Trail,
below Broken Hand Pass, where
Falls on Snow and Rock Colorado, Sangre2016de Cristo Range, Crestone Peak
CCSAR members transferred her out
Several
of the basin accidents, including
via a Stokes litter.one Earlier
fatality, occurred in
that morning, CCSAR members had the Red Gully on
the standard route up
encountered Jimenez’s party during 14,294-foot
Crestone
the descent Peak.
fromAlthough
the Staufer it faces
incident.
south, this rocky gully
They told the party of the earlier often holds
snow
incident wellandinto July, presenting
warned them of
0 2503b mountaineering
conditions in thechallenges couloir. on what is
otherwise a 3rd-class scramble.
Falls on Snow and Rock Colorado, Sangre2016de Cristo
SeveralRange,accidents,...occurred
Crestone Peak in the
Red
On July 24, less than two weeks up
Gully on the standard route later,
14,294-foot
Christopher Crestone Kiryluk (34) Peak.
diedAlthough
from a
itfallfaces
in the south, this rocky
Red Gully. gullytooften
Similar the
holds snow well
incidents on July 11 and 12, into July, presenting
the
mountaineering
climber was not challenges wearing crampons on whator is
otherwise a 3rd-class
Micro Spikes, and he slipped and fell scramble.
0 2503c on the descent.
On August 14, Bruce Owen (age
Falls on Snow and Rock Colorado, Sangre
2016de Cristo Range, Crestone Peak
unknown) suffered a broken ankle
from a slip and fall in the same
descent route. Two CCSAR members
responded, assisted the subject to a
landing zone, and bivied until dawn,
when Flight For Life could land to
transport the patient to an area
0 2503d hospital.
 Cathedral Peak Leader Fall – Off Route,2017
Pendulum,California,
On July 17, at Yosemite
9 a.m.,National
Yosemite Park, Cathedral Peak
Dispatch received a call from a
distressed party at the base of
Cathedral Peak. The caller’s 38-year-
old male climbing partner had fallen
while off route on the first pitch of the
Southeast Buttress Route (5.6). The
leader’s right ankle appeared to be
0 2512a
broken.
Cathedral Peak Leader Fall – Protection2017
Pulled, Inadequate
... Protection California, Yosemite National Park,
ANOTHER CATHEDRAL PEAK
LEDGE FALL: On August 5, a female
climber in her mid-20s took a fall on
the fourth pitch of the Southeast
Buttress Route while attempting to
pass other climbers with a 5.9
variation. Her single piece of
0 2512b
protection pulled out in the fall, and
Fall From Red Banks – Failure to Follow2017
Route, Inexperience
At 9:30 a.m.California,
on AugustMt.11,Shasta, Avalanche Gulch
I (Ranger
Forrest Coots) received a call from
Siskiyou County Search and Rescue
coordinator Mike Burns while
patrolling the lower elevations of the
south side of Mt. Shasta. Officer
Burns stated that a 911 call had come
in for an injured male climber in
0 2515a
Avalanche Gulch. The climber had
Edited Title: Fall From Red Banks – Failure
2017 to self-arrestCalifornia,
... Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch
CLEAR CREEK ROUTE FATALITY:
There was one other climbing fatality
on Mt. Shasta during the 2016
season. On July 3, a 76-year-old man
fell at approximately 9,600 feet on the
Clear Creek Route, failed to self-
arrest, and slid into a rock. The
0 2515b
patient died from his injuries that
High Altitude Cerebral Edema Alaska, Denali,
2017 West TheButtress
four climbers of expedition
“TEAM ECS’16” flew to Kahiltna base
camp at 7,200 feet on May 31.
Thirteen days later, on June 12,
TEAM ECS’16 moved to 17,200-foot
camp and then left for a summit
attempt the following day. Throughout
the day, this team interacted with
0 2529a
expedition “Mountain Wolverun” at
High Altitude Cerebral Edema Alaska, Denali,
2017 West ... Buttress
ANOTHER CASE OF HACE
REQUIRING EVACUATION: On June
26, a climber at 14,200-foot camp on
the West Buttress Route began
exhibiting the symptoms of HACE.
Her team had followed an average
ascent profile, traveling nine days
0 2529b
from 7,200-foot camp to reach 14,200
 ledge at the start
their deaths downoficy the pitch.on Mt.
chutes
to
San hike to the(a.k.a.
Antonio top of Mt. the Baldy)
10,069-foot or
mountain
With
nearby; Remsberg onof
two the these Devil’s
still Backbone
conscious,
were attemptingthe
Trail;
to hike....toMt.
well-trained Baldy
top ofisthe
thestudents the
were third-highest
able to
10,069-foot
mountain
mountain in
self-rescue onvia Southern lowerCalifornia.
thea Devil’s and then
Backbone
One
tandem hiker, 47-year-old Dong Xing Liu,
Edited Title: Hold Broke, Hit LedgeCanada, ... Yamnuska, Forbidden Corner the
Trail;
2017 Alberta, rappel
....Mt. Baldy to theis road
the below
third-highest
wasn’t
climb. so lucky,
mountain in Southern California. On as he died after
slipping
Meanwhile,
February from at
2, LONG Icehouse
Danielthe top NguyenofSaddle,
pitch one,
ANOTHER FALL ON(23)
located
Adams
slipped in
had
on a icedrainage
called
and 911
slid southeast
and
1,500 Remsberg
feet of
YAMNUSKA:
In February, On September
three people plunged1, a toto
Baldy.
called
his death His
Nate wife
from Disser, also fell
thetook and
owner suffered
of Mt.San
climber
their deathsbroke downathe hold, Devil’s
icy chutes Backbone.
a 15-meter
on
serious
Juan
The injuries
Mountain
following to
Guides
Saturday, her lower
(SJMG).
February body. 6,
fall,
San and
Antonio hit a (a.k.a.
ledge while
Mt. leading
Baldy) or the
"In
When
saw theno Los
guides
easing Angeles
from
of Times,
SJMG
unusually on
arrived
icy on
second
nearby; or
two third
of these pitch of
were a 5.10d
attemptingroute
February
the scene,
conditions, 8,theyMt.
and Baldy
aaided
dozen Fire
Farquhar
people in to
had
to the
hike right
to the of Direttissima.
top of the The fall
10,069-foot
0 2534a Department
conducting
be airlifted a
off Captain
thorough
Mt. Baldy Gordon
head-to-toe
as a Greene
result.
caused
mountain a fractured
on the hip
Devil’s and minor
Backbone
Leader Fall on Yamnuska – Loose Rock, 2017 described
Inadequate
An Protection
experienced
assessment
ANALYSIS theand icyparty
Canada, conditions
vitals two as
Alberta,
ofcheck Yamnuska,
was
and Forbidden Co
Trail;
“almost . Mt.
like Baldy
a mirror,” is the third-highest
saying that even
climbing
produced
For much in Forbidden
SOAP
of Southern
the year, Corner
(Subjective, (5.9
Mt. Baldy is a R) on
mountain
“crampons wouldn’t haveCalifornia.
helped.”
April 12
Objective,
hiking when the for
Assessment,
destination leader peak fell
Plan) about
notes
baggers, 10
Twelve
Winter days later,on
conditions onMt. February
Baldy’s 20, a
meters
that
with were
the on the fourth
used
Devil’s during
Backbone ortransport
fifthtrail
pitch to
being as
a a
45-year-
upper old San
reaches have Diego taken man the wholives was
result
trauma
the of
normal a broken
center.route. An Inhold.
ambulance
places A piece the of of
carried
wearing
other crampons
climbers, includingplummeted Ali 1,500
Aminian
protection
Remsberg
spectacular pulled
toridge
Ouray, out
isicy and
from
only alengthened
which
few feethe
feet
and down
Michelle a steep, chute on the
the fall.
was
wide, flown
with Asvia theYu,
talus belayer
helicopterbothgullies
filled experienced
stopped
to the the
dropping
north side of Mt.
mountaineers, in Harwood,
2004 directly
0 2534b
fallingfrom
hospital
away
east of
leader,
in Montrose.
Mt. either
Baldy
the climber
side
on theofand
He the 2010,
swung
suffered
Devil’s ridge, into
but
respectively.
thetechnical
three
no wall feet-first,
fractured ribs
climbing and and heinvolved.
is a sustained In a
Backbone
Fatal Falls on Unusually Icy Peak California,Angeles
2017 Nationalridge.
ANALYSIS Forest, The Mt.man’s
San Antonio two (a.k.a. Mt. Baldy)
hemopneumothorax
certain winterneither
companions, conditions, (abnormal
ofMt.whomhowever, air
were
For
and much
cramponsblood of
in
and the
the ice year,
chest
axes Baldy
cavity).
may be is a
injured,
hiking also were for
destination wearingpeak crampons."
baggers,
necessary
Winter to negotiate on Mt.the route, and
with
ANALYSIStheconditions
mountaineering Devil’s Backbone judgment—e.g.,
Baldy’s
trail being
upper
the normalreaches route. have taken the
In places lives of
turning
other around
climbers, in the
including faceAli ofthe severe
Aminian
spectacular
Dale Remsberg
conditions—is ridge is onlyI (Source:
writes:
required. a few
do notfeet Clay
and
wide, Michelle
with talus Yu, bothgullies
filled experienced dropping
believe
Jackson,
mountaineers, really
with anything
information
in 2004 went from wrongthe in
0 2567a away
this
Los from either
incident,
Angeles but
Times.) side ofand
rather the2010,
everythingridge, but
respectively.
no technical climbing is involved. In
2017 went
Fatal Falls on Unusually Icy Peak California,Angeles as wellForest,
National
ANALYSIS as it could. Mt. San I hadAntonio (a.k.a. Mt. Baldy)
certain
subscribed winter totheconditions,
theyear, “ice leader however,
must
For much of
crampons and ice axes Mt. may Baldy be is a
never
hiking fall” philosophy
destination for peak for 25 years
baggers, and
necessary
had never to negotiate
taken a leader thefall route,
on and
ice
with the Devil’s Backbone
mountaineering judgment—e.g., trail being
before.
the normal Thisroute.climb Inwas placeswell the within my
turning
ability around
and was in
in the
good face of severe
shape.
spectacular
conditions—is ridge required.is only(Source:a few My feet Clay
takeaway
wide, withwith was that,
talusinformation even
filled gullies when dropping
Jackson,
everything from the
0 2567b away
Los from is
Angeles
doneside
either
Times.)
as wellof the asridge,
possible, but
unfortunate things
no technical climbing is involved. can happen and In it’s
Fatal Falls on Unusually Icy Peak California,Angeles
2017 very National
important Forest,to have Mt. San partnersAntonio that(a.k.a. Mt. Baldy)
certain winter conditions, however,
have
crampons practiced and ice self-rescue
axes may and be have
first-aid knowledge.
necessary to negotiate the route, and
mountaineering judgment—e.g.,
In addition,
turning around the in fact thethat face weofhad severecell
phone coverage
conditions—is required. (Source: Claymade a huge
difference
Jackson, with in response
information time. from Climbers
the
0 2567c should consider
Los Angeles Times.) other forms of
communication if they go out of cell
Leader Fall on Ice – Hit by Unknown Falling
2017 Object Colorado, Ouray, Camp Bird Road
range. I carry a two-way satellite
communication device and a satellite
phone on remote climbs. The trauma
surgeon stated that if I not been able
to get to definitive care as soon as I
had, the outcome likely would have
been much worse. (Source: Dale
0 2579aa Remsberg.)...
 close call in the Mosquito Range in
February when a large sheet of ice
(estimated
A party of four at 10 by 6 feet)
Seattle brokeleft
climbers
loose under him while
Timberline Lodge early Saturday he was leading
the popular
morning, Scottish
January Gully (WI3). He
Leader Fall on Ice – Hit by Unknown Falling
2017 Object Colorado, Ouray,2,Campfor a Bird
summit Road
fell about 40 feet into
climb via the Wy'East Face. High snow near the
base
winds,ofcold
the temperatures,
climb. Prudently, andhe’d
icy
placed a screw partway
conditions slowed the ascent. up andThethe
rope came
party summited tight atas3he neared
p.m., and thewith
ground, preventing
superficial an even longer
frostbite developing, theyfall
—a good reminder to
quickly descended the south side place adequate
protection
unroped, using even headlamps.
on relativelyTwo easyof
0 2579ab climbs.
the male members had previously
Long Leader Fall New Hampshire, North 2017
Conway,On Cathedral
climbed theLedge
July 31, Stephanie
route and led Angione was
the descent.
leading the second pitch
The party spread out, with the female of Still in
Saigon, aage
member, popular 5.8 at Cathedral
27, lagging behind. The
Ledge,male
three when she fellreached
climbers at the crux,the
sailed past
lodge, but the herfemale
gear, and broke her
member
foot upon impacting
descended to the west theofrock. The
the lodge,
crux is protected
heading toward the by distant
a goodlightshorizontal
of
cam placement
Government and, a body length
Camp.
0 2589a
higher, a bolt. Her belayer lowered
Long Leader Fall – Loose Hold, Inadequate
2017Protection
... California, Sierra Nevada, Palisades, Temple Crag
The lost climber called 911, which
At approximately 6:30 p.m. on July 3,
initiated a Portland Mountain Rescue
a two-person team began climbing the
(PMR) call-out. The climber texted a
15th pitch (5.4) of the 18- to 22-pitch
photo of a trail sign, which helped
route Sun Ribbon Arête (5.10a) on
rescuers pinpoint her location. (A
Temple Crag (12,999 feet). Just prior
screenshot of the subject’s phone
to arriving at the notch belay at the
showing a GPS location was
top of the pitch, the leader (female,
0 2589b inaccurate by about a half-mile and
28) pulled on a loose rock and
Lost During Descent – Hypothermia, Frostbite was
2017 Oregon, disregarded.)
A party Mt.ofHood, SheSide
South
four Seattle wasRoute
climberslocated,
left
assessed, and rewarmed
Timberline Lodge early Saturday by the PMR
team
morning,andJanuary
then assisted2, for a tosummit
Government Camp.
climb via the Wy'East Face. Here, anHigh
American
winds, cold temperatures, andteam
Medical Response icy
evaluated
conditions her slowedfor frostbite
the ascent. and The
hypothermia,
party summited and at recommended
3 p.m., and with
transport
superficialtofrostbite
the hospital for treatment.
developing, they
0 2591f
quickly descended the south side
Edited Title: Rappel Error – Anchor ErrorCalifornia,
2017 Yosemite Valley,
"Christopher
ANALYSIS Vale and El Capitan,
his partner East Ledges Descent
Luke started climbing the west face of
El Capitan
Allowing thearound
party to 7:30 a.m. onduring
separate
September 5. (The
descent was a major mistake, name of Vale’s
climbing partner
especially given the hasdevelopment
been changed.) of
The two had
frostbite and met a few days
hypothermia earlier
in the
and climbed
female climber. theHerSteck-Salathé on
off- route descent
Sentinel
was likelyRock
due as a warmup forwith
to unfamiliarity El the
0 2594b
Capitan.
route andThey finished of
the difficulty theusing
west face
Strandings on Rainier – WeatherWashington,
2017 Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver
navigation tools (compass and GPS
receiver) due to the onset of
hypothermia. Nonetheless, her phone
was instrumental to the eventual
rescue—a good reminder to keep
some juice in the phone battery until
you're off the mountain. (Source: Jeff
0 2605a Scheetz, Portland Mountain Rescue)
 to
restthe ofright of hiswent
the team only downprotectionto Camp on
the pitch, and
Schurman the for
to call rope help would
on ahave park
dragged along the face
service emergency radio. under
Thattension
same
as
day, heafell. After the
helicopter fall, about
dropped 20 feet
rangers
of
ontorope remained
a ledge several attached
hundred to the
feet
Strandings on Rainier – Altitude Sickness
2017
Washington, Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier
victim,
below the plusstranded
about three climbersfeet of and they
exposed
climbed up core.
to the pair. The climbers
It’s
were impossible
extractedto byknowshortifhaulthis to accident
a
would have occurred
landing zone, flown to the base of thehad the party
been
mountain, usingand boththe of patient
the halfwas ropes, or if
they had been
transferred to anusing a single-rated
ambulance for a trip
rope.
to the Technical
hospital toinvestigators
be checked who out.
1 2605b surveyed
(Source: Mt. theRainier
scene stated National that a
Park.)
Thumb Amputated By Rope in Fall West Virginia,larger
2017 INDOOR CLIMBING FINGER cut
New
Just rope
River
after 5 might
Gorge,
p.m. on also
Cotton
May haveTop
12, been
a male
in the same
climber
AMPUTATION: (agesituation.
29)Inwas Nonetheless,
attempting
September, anto a
climb such
lead Cottonmouth,
experienced as this,
climbera inespecially
5.10a early
sport climb
Colorado hadin
one’s
at Cotton
the climbing career,
Top, aofsmall
index finger is no
craghand
his right place
on the to
test
norththe
amputated sideboundaries
ofinthe New
similar offashion
one’s Gorge.
River during a
equipment.
The climber
leader fall inWhen
moved
a gym. a quickly
ropeclimber
The system
through is he
wrote
tested
lower
in a post and
portion rated to be
of the climb.
at Mountain used
Project:Oncea certain
he
“I am
way,
wasone
not thattoisgrab
within howmy
arm’s itreach
should be
theused.
ropeofduring fifth bolt,
a lead
0 2606a The evidence suggests aofrope cutting
he clipped
fall, and a quickdraw
I take hundredsto theleadboltfalls
Indoor Climbing Thumb Amputation 2017 over an edge led to this fatality,
per year. My belayer knows whatbut she
the climber’s
is doing; she fall
hasisalso what caused
been the
climbing
rope
for many to cut.
years.While The theway twoI climbers
see it, it is
seemed
a ‘freak accident,’ one thatphysical
to be within their could not
capabilities,
have been prevented.”a route likeSurgeons Matthes Crest
may have been
reattached inappropriate
this climber’s finger, forbut
the
team, based on their
complications forced a surgical alpine
0 2606b experience.
amputation three Finding daysthelater.
best line
onthis climb (as with many High Sierra
Fatal Ground Fall: Rope Likely Cut Over2018
Edge
climbs) requires route-finding skill; it’s
also important to have the ability to
downclimb or traverse out of
unexpected difficulties. Pushing your
personal comfort zone is best done in
less committing environments.
( Sources: Yosemite National Park
0 2632t Climbing Rangers and the Editors.)
Frostbite Alaska, Denali, West Buttress2018 On May 27, a 53-year-old male,
climbing solo, sustained frostbite
injuries to all ten of his fingers while
ascending from the 14,200-foot camp
toward the 17,200-foot camp on the
West Buttress. At 9:10 a.m., he made
a satelite phone call requesting a
rescue. Poor satellite connection
0 2635t
prevented any further information
Ground Fall – Fixed Quickdraws Broke2018California, OwensCannon,
Jordan River Gorge 22, was attempting
Bongo Fury (5.12b), a bolted arête in
the Joe’s Garage area, in late March.
All of the bolts were pre-equipped with
quickdraws made with thin Dynex
(polyethylene) webbing. When
Cannon fell above the third bolt, the
quickdraws at both the third and
0 2637f
second bolts broke and Cannon fell
 dispatch received a report that a
used
climber was had overfallen 100from feet theoff the
Swan Slab
ground, requiring
Gully (5.6). YOSAR and the Valley a 70-meter rope to
lower
ambulance quickly arrived on the
or rappel all the way to scene.
ground.
The first The patient believed
responders found a mid-20shis rope
to be lying
70 meters, but the SAR up, noted
Virginia, male
Leader Fall and Mild Head Injury West2018 Reed’s
On JulyCreek 23,on anthe groundface
experienced male
that
being the rope was visibly cut at both
climberheld (age by24) hiswas climbingleading partner.
ends,
While and upon
the climber measuringthey
was conscious, he
Reaching Conclusions, a 5.10a sport
determined
was disoriented the rope and to be aboutto62
struggling stay
route at Reed’s Creek (near
meters.
awake. This was the he
Furthermore, firstwastime the two
Petersburg, WV). The climber was
climbers
complaining had met and was hipthe
attempting anofawkward back andmove, pain, and
patient’s
witnesses first
stated climb heinmay Yosemite.hit his
squatting on a ledge with havehis left hand
ANALYSIS
head. He did not have on a As helmet.
on a hold between his feet. he
0 2641f Both
After of
thetheseclimber accidents
wasright could have
assessed
reached up with his hand toand a
Leader Fall Onto Ledge – Inexperience 2018 been
West Virginia,
On the
packaged avoided
New River
morning withGorge,
for transport, some
of October Bubbabasic
the 28, safety
City,
rescueandTattoo Wall
measures.
with
teamrain carriedforecasted
him thetoshort begin by
distance to
Close
midday,
the the
road,my belay
andgirlfriend, system.
he was evacuated Liza A stopper from
knot
Mindemann
the at the belayer’s
Ahwahnee (age 33),end
meadow and ofI medical
by the
(Sam rope
or tying
Janis, age at
helicopter the belayer
39) into
decided to get
approximately his or her
an p.m.
8:10 end
early
would
start on
Other have prevented
our third
climbers indaythe of both
area of
a two-week these
stated the
ground
climbingfalls.
climber, aroad trip. We
beginner, was were beingeager to
Know
get back
lowered your onoutrope,thereknow
top-rope before
whenyour the route.
the rain
endand of
0 2642f Both parties were climbing on ropes
coldrope
the arrived,slipped as the weather
through the wasbelayer’s
Lowering Errors – Ropes Too Short, Helmet/No
2018 Helmet
that had California,
been Yosemite Valley,
intentionally to aSwan Slab and Chur
device.
On April It23,was a determined
party of three incut
these
male
shorter
interviews length.that the If you fall choose
was around to modify 25
climbers
your rope, attempted
know to summit
exactly how Shasta
long it by
is
feet.
via theThe climber’s
Avalanche rope,
Gulch measured
route but
and
NPS tell your
employees, climbing partners. And
turned
never back attrust
blindly thewas top only
of Red
guidebooks.
aboutBanks. 98
Infeet
the
A
feet
They24-year
long.
descended old
The female
route is
to Horseclimber
about Camp 60
Church
sustained
high Bowl
and would accident,
frostbite on May
require the
at climber
14 during
least 120
together,
used anrope arriving
anchor safely
that was inroughly
the 30
an
feet attempt
of
afternoon. on
As to the
lower
they Avalanche
a climber
continued Gulch
from
down
0 2647a feet
route.
the higher
The
bottom..... than
climber’s the guidebook’s
boots had (age listed
toward
distance. Bunny Flat, one member
Edited Title: Lowering Errors – Ropes 2018 become
Too Short,29)California,
began wet during
toYosemite
fall two
behind. days
Valley, TheSwanof snow
others Slab and Church Bo
Both
camping climbers and impacted
skills practice,their heads
and
told
during him to
their follow
falls. their
At the tracks,
Church but
Bowl, the he
remained
ended so
up helmet during
spending the summit
night out with
climber’s
attempt. After was
climbing heavily
for three hours
little
damaged gear (a very
bytemperatures light pack,
the fall but he(-10°F a
escaped
in very
lightweight cold puffy jacket,the snowatthe
andhelmet, 1
serious
a.m.) and injury.
six orWithout
seven inches of fresh
pants).
outcome The could climber have was
been found
tragic. on the
snow,
morning the of climber
the 24thNationalreported
by another that she
party
(Source:
had no Yosemite
feelingdown. in either Park
0 2647b and
Climbingassisted Rangers.) He of was her feet.
uninjured.
Realizing that she
This incident easily could have been was at risk for cold
Separated, no injuryCalifornia, Mt.2018
Shasta and Castle
injury,Cragsthe Wilderness
party descended from
avoided with proper preparation and
11,200 feet and soughtand
better communication medical
teamwork; care.
She was diagnosed
a map and compass and knowledge with mild frostbite
to
of toes
how to onuse boththem feet.would have gotten
Prevention of frostbite
the lost climber to the trailhead. injuries begins It is to
with dry and non-constrictive
be noted that the three climbers gear. had
Proper-fitting
just recently met clothing that is layered
on Facebook and
0 2649a will
were helpnotto prevent
regular overheating
climbing partners. and
sweating. Wet socks, gloves, and
Mt. Shasta FrostbiteCalifornia, Mt.2018
Shasta and Castle Crags Wilderness
other clothing should be changed as
soon as practical. Cold or numb
extremities should be rewarmed
through skin-to-skin contact.
(Rewarming of frostbitten tissue in the
field should only be done if there is no
possibility of the injured site
0 2649b refreezing.)
 the two women’s
climbing rangers, campsite
in conjunctionand pinged
with
the
two local guides and a Californiain an
missing climber’s cell phone
attempt
HighwaytoPatrolobtain(CHP)
her location.
helicopter,The
climber’s partner informed
rescued an injured male climber the rangers
in
that the missing climber
Avalanche Gulch below the Red was dressed
Mt. Shasta rockfallCalifornia, Mt. Shasta
2018 and Castle
onlyCrags Wilderness
in aThe
neon green(male,
dress,mid-30s)
light
Banks. climber
hiking boots, and a small
was struck on the back of the head bypink
windbreaker.
rockfall that precipitated a 100-foot fall
A full search
down the slope. andHerescue operation
was found
was conducted
unconscious. throughout
The climber was July 27
and 28 and included air assets
stabilized and, after a hoist rescue, from
the National Guard and
transported to Mercy Medical Centermembers of
0 2649c the Marin
at Mt. Shasta.County, Contra Costa
County, Josephine County, Jackson
Mt. Shasta Separated partyCalifornia,
2018
Mt. Shasta and Castle Crags Wilderness
County, Bay Area Mountain Rescue,
and Shasta County SAR teams. This
search continued until the evening of
July 28, when a 911 call was received
from a different party who had found
the missing climber. She was
uninjured and escorted from the
0 2649d mountain.
Edited Title: Rockfall Incidents – Crowds
2018 Canada, TwoAlberta, Mt.incidents
rockfall Temple, East Ridge
on the popular
east rige of Temple resulted in injuries
and evacuations. ...
On August 9 there were multiple
parties lined up on the east ridge. In
the middle of the route is the Big Step,
a steep, three-pitch section of 5.7
climbing. A climber in a lower group
0 2659a
was struck by rock dislodged by a
Rockfall Incidents – Off-Route, Crowds
2018 Canada, Alberta, Mt. Temple,
Two rockfall incidents EastonRidge
the popular
east rige of Temple resulted in injuries
and evacuations. On July 30, a party
of three high on the route had just
made the long traverse left across
loose ledges to gain gullies through
the Black Towers. Route-finding can
be difficult in this area, and this party
0 2659b
began ascending the wrong gully.
Rockfall – Poor Position Canada, British
2018 Columbia,MyTakakkaw
girlfriend Falls
and I were climbing the
standard
ROCKY MOUNTAINFalls
Takakkaw route (12
NATIONAL
pitches,
PARK : 5.6) on Labor Day weekend.
When we arrived, two
On March 18, a 39-year-old man parties were
already on died
apparently the route:
while adescending
guide and a
youngthe
from woman,
Loft, a and
highasaddle
less at about
experienced
13,500 partyabandoning
feet, after that had been an
knockingon
attempt offLongs
loosePeak.
rocks.HisI wastwoin the
0 2660t
middle of thecontinued
companions ninth pitch, 15 their
with meters
Rocky Mountain National Park separated
2018 from party Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park
attempt, and, after discovering the
man’s vehicle still in the parking area
that evening, they reported him
missing. His body was found halfway
up the Loft route, which requires
technical mountaineering in winter;
the cause of death was not reported,
0 2682a but was likely a fall from snow or ice.
 At the end of October, a 31-year-old
woman suffered life-threatening
injuries from rockfall on Martha, a
moderate mixed couloir on the south
face of Mt. Lady Washington. She
Rocky Mountain National Park, Rockfall
2018 Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park
was lowered several hundred feet to
the bottom of the climb and then down
talus to a point where she could be
hoisted into a helicopter. Martha is a
very popular route, with both natural
rockfall hazard and danger from other
climbers; it generally has better snow
0 2682b and ice coverage later in the season.
Tahquitz Rock Fatalities California,2018
Tahquitz Rock

On July 8, a 51-year-old male

climber’s body was found at the base
of the Trough (4 pitches, 5.4); it is not
known whether he was soloing or
scrambling to reach another route
0 2684a when he fell….
Tahquitz Rock Fatalities California,2018
Tahquitz Rock
.... On September 6, a climber (male,
age 24) was killed and his brother
seriously injured by rockfall in the
Larks area on Tahquitz’s north face. A
warning about a large, loose boulder
at the top of the exit gully for the Larks
had been posted at Mountain Project
0 2684b In
twoMarch,
weeksabefore
womanthe was lowered off
accident.
the end of her rope on Frothing Green
Two Boulder Canyon Accidents (2017)2018 Colorado, Boulder Canyon
at the Bowling Alley, suffering a head
laceration in a tumbling fall. The pitch
is obviously long and is best climbed
with a 70-meter rope (some route
descriptions warn of this), and a
stopper knot in the belayer’s end of
the rope would have prevented this
0 2685a accident.
Two Boulder Canyon Accidents (2017)2018 Colorado, Boulder Canyon
In June, a 29-year-old woman fell
from the tricky-to-protect first pitch of
Cosmosis (5.10a) at Bell Buttress; a
nut and small cam pulled out, and she
hit the belay ledge 20 to 25 feet
below, breaking an ankle and possibly
vertebrae.
0 2685b – The Editors
Fall on Rock, Off Route, Unplanned Bivouac,
1993 Misunderstanding
Arizona, Canyon of Rating
SpringSystem,
Wall, DeInadequate Equipment
Grazia
The purpose of the trip (on December
2, 1992) was to complete a multi-pitch
climb. De Grazia was selected
because it provided good “exposure”
with moderate difficulty. The
description in the guide book led us to
0 290a
believe that the third pitch was the
most difficult and the only pitch rated
5.7 followed by two pitches of lesser
 Edited Title: Fall on Rock, Arizona, Canyon
1993 Spring Wall, DeROCK
FALLING GraziaArizona, Flagstaff,
Priest Draw ON February 21, 1992,
Robert Drysdale (22) was killed when
a large block was dislodged from the
top of a boulder problem and hit him
in the back of the head. Drysdale,
originally from Scotland, was a very
experienced climber, having started at
0 290b
age 15. He established many difficult
Avalanche, Weather, Colorado, Rocky Mountain
1993 National
Colorado, Park, Flattop
Rocky Mountain
Mountain National
Park, Flattop Mountain
On November 1, 1992, Brad Farnan
(30), Todd Martin (24) and two female
climbers were practicing snow
climbing techniques on the Central
Couloir, Northwest Face of Flattop
Mountain. The women decided to turn
0 322t
around at the junction with the West
Fall on Rappel—Lost Control and Descended
1993 TooCalifornia,
Rapidly, California,
YosemiteYosemite
Valley, ElValley, El Capitan
Capitan
On September 17, 1992, Robert
Moore (42) was rappelling a single
7/16 inch, 820 meter rope down the
face of El Capitan when he apparently
lost control and slid to his death.
Moore was part of a group of about 20
0 329t
people who had come and fixed ropes
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, New1993
Hampshire,
On Cathedral
October
on both 4,Ledge
El Cap I and
wasHalf
climbing
Dome.at
Cathedral Ledge with a friend.
Members of the group had varying We
were doing a four pitch 5.9 route
called Diedre, and despite the sun, we
were on the north side on a cool (but
blue) Fall day, which made finger
warmth marginal. I was leading the
top pitch, a crack book whose left
0 336a
pages were about one meter wide,
Frostbite, Inadequate Clothing, Alaska, 1990
Mount McKinley
Alaska, Mount McKinley
On April 28, 1989, the North Ireland
Alaskan Expedition left for the West
Buttress of Mount McKinley in order to
acclimatize for the Cassin. After
taking eight days to reach 4300
meters and spending three nights
there, they chose to move higher for a
0 34a
summit bid. On May 10, while moving
Frostbite, Inadequate Clothing, Alaska, 1990
Mount McKinley
Alaska, Mount McKinley
...
On May 11, Ian Rea (33) made a solo
attempt on the summit and upon
return to 4200 meters, he discovered
the big toe on his right foot had been
frostbitten. Both victims were
examined at the Medical Camp and
0 34b
determined to have mild to moderate
 ascended to the high camp in six
days, where Tesar contracted
Pulmonary and Cerebral Edema. His
condition was made worse by cooking
inside their tent for two hours without
Inadequate Belay, Inattention, Fall on Rock,
1993 Idaho,
any City
Idaho, of Rocks,
City
vents Rabbit
of Rocks,
opened. Poor Rock
Rabbit Rock
weather
On Friday, an
prevented August
airlift.7,An1992,
eightathour
1300,
Andrew (33)down
evacuation and Glenda
the rescue Lainias
gully(34)
were climbingata1920
commenced routeon called
June“Sudden
28,
Pleasure.” Andrew Lainias
lowering Tesar to the 14,200 foot had
reached the topby
Ranger Station of Park
the climb and was
Personnel,
being lowered on the
mountain guides and members rope by Glenda
of the
Lainias.
Tesar party. Attempts to stabilizehis
Glenda was controlling
0 357t
descent
Tesar were by using a Stitchplate
undertaken for 16 hours
HAPE, HACE, Ascending Too Fast, Cooking 1994 in Tent with No Ventilation, Alaska, Mount McKinley
by Medical Personnel at the 14,200
North Carolina,
foot station. Crowders
Significant Mountain
improvement
State Park
was not shown, so Tesar was air
On August by
evacuated 30,1993,
the NPS Jeff Rosenkrans
Lama at 1715
(17) fell 80 feet when
on the 28th. Tesar was admittedthe anchor to
system he and his
Alaska Regional three friends
Hospital. (Source:
installed for their rappel
Roger Robinson, NPS Ranger, came out. He
Denali
0 404t sustained
National Park) massive head injury and
several broken bones. (Source: The
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, North
1994Carolina, Crowders Mountain State Park
Charlotte Observer, August 30, 1993)
...
Many of the climbing accidents, like
this one, happen to young and/or
inexperienced climbers. As one
climber was quoted regarding
Crowders Mountain, “It’s Crowded up
0 431t there.” (Source: Jed Williamson)
Edited Title: Fall on Rock, Etc., New Hampshire,
1994 Cathedral
New Ledges and
Hampshire, CannonLedges
Cathedral Cliffs
and Cannon Cliffs
(The following excerpt from George
Hurley’s personal “Newsletter" he
sends out at least twice a year
captures the summer accident scene
in New Hampshire. George’s letters
(a) are full of valuable, pithy,
0 433a
interesting, and useful information,
Edited Title: Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat,1994
Etc., New
New Hampshire,
Hampshire,Cathedral Ledges
Cathedral and Cannon Cliffs
Ledges
and Cannon Cliffs
(The following excerpt from George
Hurley’s personal “Newsletter" he
sends out at least twice a year
captures the summer accident scene
in New Hampshire. George’s letters
(a) are full of valuable, pithy,
0 433b
interesting, and useful information,
Edited Title: Fall on Rock, Stranded, Etc.,
1994New Hampshire,
New Hampshire,CathedralCathedral
Ledges and Cannon Cliffs
Ledges
and Cannon Cliffs
(The following excerpt from George
Hurley’s personal “Newsletter" he
sends out at least twice a year
captures the summer accident scene
in New Hampshire. George’s letters
(a) are full of valuable, pithy,
0 433c
interesting, and useful information,
 West Virginia, New River Gorge and
Cooper’s Rock
There were reports of eight climbing
Falls on Rock, Belayer Dropped Leader...West
1994 Virginia, New River Gorge and Cooper's Rock
accidents resulting in injury from the
above areas in 1993. The brief
descriptions include the following.
.... A lead climber was being lowered
by his belayer. He ran out of rope and
dropped the leader 15 or 20 feet. A
shattered ankle required a helicopter
0 444a West Virginia, New River Gorge and
evacuation....
Cooper’s Rock
Falls on Rock, ... Downclimb accident West
1994 Virginia, New River Gorge and Cooper's Rock
There were reports of eight climbing
accidents resulting in injury from the
above areas in 1993. The brief
descriptions include the following....An
West Virginia, New
inexperienced climberRiver(13)Gorge
tried toand
Cooper’s Rock
down climb a route with no rope, and
There
he fell were
aboutreports
30 feet,ofresulting
eight climbing
in
0 444b accidents resulting in injury
paralysis due to spinal injury. from
... the
above areas in 1993. The brief
Falls on Rock, free climb... West Virginia,
1994New River Gorge and Cooper's Rock
descriptions include the following.
An individual decided to leave his
equipment and free climb in a no
climbing area. The wind blew him off
and he fell 25 feet, landing on a tree
root sticking out from the cliff. This
saved him from what cold have been
0 444c a longer, perhaps fatal, fall. ...
Rappel Anchor Came Out, Fall on Rock,1994Wyoming, Grand Teton
Wyoming, GrandNational
TetonPark, Mount
National Moran
Park,
Mount Moran
RK (23)
New and
York, JG (20)Preserve,
Mohonk died of multiple
injuries late Friday, September 17, or
Shawangunks
earlyofSaturday,
one September
which resulted 18, 1993,
in a fatality—the
whensince
first they1983.
fell while
Theclimbing the
latter occurred in
South Buttress of Mount Moran.
October, at night, to a male (34) who SG
(20)
was onsurvived theand
the third fall and
final was
pitch of
0 452t
evacuated from the mountain
Gelsa (5.4). He fell, for unknown about
Fall on Rock, Protection Problems, New1994
York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks
reasons, about 50 feet, flipping over
and landing on his head below two
other climbing friends who were on
the belay ledge. It is doubtful that a
helmet would have made any
difference. Climbing at night here is
not condoned, but it sometimes
0 458t happens on cloudless, moonlit nights.
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Route, Exceeding
1995 Abilities, Colorado,
Colorado, Rocky Mountain
Rocky Mountain NationalNational Park, The
Park, The Book
On August 15, 1994, about 1500,
Laura Grignon (29) slipped and fell on
rock while leading what they believed
to be the J Crack III 5.10a on The
Book of Lumpy Ridge. She and her
partner, Greg Langkamp, were
0 515t
actually several hundred feet to the
 Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No1995
Hard Hat,Colorado,
Colorado,Eldorado
Eldorado Canyon
CanyonState Park, Red Garden W
State
Park, Red Garden Wall
On September 10, 1994, a climber
(30) was leading on “Blackwalk” (5.
l0b/c) on Red Garden Wall. He was
30 feet off the ground and five feet
above his last and only piece of
protection.
Washington—Only He slipped oneand fell, pulling
avalanche
0 528t
the 2½ inch Friend out.
was reported, and in this case, He hit his
the
Avalanche, etc., Washington—Various 1995 Locations
climbers were in unstable snow
conditions, partly brought on by warm
weather, and in a poor position at the
bottom of a couloir. Three victims
called in their accident using cellular
telephones.(Source: Reports sent to
editor by Fred Stanley, Louis
0 544t McCrohan, and Daniel Smith)
Fall on Ice, Falling Object, Inadequate Protection,
1990 Colorado San
Colorado, SanJuanJuan Mountains
Mountains
On December 31, 1989, Kevin Kelley
(28) was being top-roped on an ice
climb near County Road 361 when he
fell a little over
Wisconsin, a meter
Devil’s Lakeand dislodged
State
a log (15 cm diameter
Park ...One of them resulted by 30 cminlong)
a
which had a sling and carabiner
fatality. The latter was one of five
attached for
accidents directional
in which protection.
the climbers were
0 54t
The log slid
unroped. Hedown
was athe 19rope
yearand
old, hit
who
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Wisconsin,
1995 Devil's Lake State Park
had climbed “100s of times”
(according to his partner) without
using a rope, and had that afternoon
come from an indoor climbing wall.
Our thanks to Daniel Miskinis, the
Law Enforcement Superintendent, for
forwarding
New York, Mohonkthe park’s reports to us.
Preserve
0 557t (Source:
Shawangunks Jed Williamson)
Edited Title: Fall while setting up Top Rope
1995 The other (fatality), which happened
only eleven days later, was the result
of
New assuming that a sling
York, Mohonk around a tree
Preserve
with rings
Shawangunks attached indicated a rappel
station. Neither of the two
One (fatality) occurred when a man climbers
checked
(47) slipped the and
knotfell
on 60
thefeet
sling. The
to the
first climber (27) clipped in
road. He was setting up a top rope at and
0 558a weighted
the time. the rappelMohonk
(Source: rope at Preserve)
the edge
of the cliff. That was when he
Edited Title: FALL ON ROCK, Rappel 1995 anchor failure
discovered that the knot was
improperly tied. He fell first about 40
feet to the Grand Traverse ledge, then
rolled off that and went the rest of the
way to the ground— about 200 feet.
The sling was later found to have only
one half of a water knot tied in it.
0 558b (Source: Mohonk Preserve)
 the hospital. (Source: Robin Waxman
and James Garnett)
Analysis
The directions which came with the
device state the following:
Fall on Rock, Failed to Follow Directions,
1990Inadequate Equipment, Climbing Alone, Exceeding Abilities, U
“....Manufacturer recommends
backing up the Soloist with a safety
knot at regular intervals and advises
that low-angle tumbling backward falls
may not be stopped by device... Must
be used with a chest harness.”
(Source: From Rock Exotica Soloist
0 57t description by manufacturer)...
Fall on Rock, Foot Caught in "Quickdraw,"1990Inattention, New Mexico,
New Mexico, Cochita
Cochita MesaMesa
On December 28, 1989, Cameron
Burns (24) fell from the third bolt on
Praise the Lunge (5.11b). As he fell,
his foot got caught in the “Quickdraw”
on the second bolt, causing his body
to flip upside down and resulting in a
sprained ankle. He had not clipped
0 58t
into the third bolt. (Source: Cameron
Edited Title: Slide/Fall on Ice, Inexperience,
1996 Improper Use ofEastern
California, Crampons, Inadequate
Sierras, Protection—Unclippe
Lamarck
Col
On October 22, David Lown (29), a
second year family practice resident,
and three friends were descending a
frozen snow slope below the Lamarck
Col plateau. A series of rappels were
to be set up with ice bollards for the
0 607a
rappels and ice screws for backup
Edited Title: Slide/Fall on Ice, California,
1996Eastern(Editors
Sierras, Lamarck Col were three other
Note: There
major accidents in this vicinity during
the summer and fall.... Another was
an unroped climber on Mount Dana
who fell 400-500feet down a couloir to
his death..... Gary Guenther, a
member of the Mono County
Mountain Rescue Team, provided as
0 607b
much information as he had on these.
Edited Title: Slide/Fall on Ice, Inadequate
1996 Protection, California,
(Editors Easternwere
Note: There Sierras, Lamarck
three other Col
major accidents in this vicinity during
the summer and fall. ... The third
involved a couple climbing in the
Convict Lake Drainage of Red Slate
Mountain in June. They fell several
hundred feet to their death, probably
because they were off route in poor
0 607c
weather and had no running
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Distraction,
1990 Poor Position, Pennsylvania,
Pennsylvania, Ralph StoverRalph
StateStover State Park
Park
On October 22, 1989, Phillipp Grout
(40) took a six-meter fall to the ground
while leading the center crack on the
practice wall. Climbing a meter to the
right of a top rope, he protected about
three meters off the ground. About six
0 60t
meters off, he stopped to protect
 Garnet.
at:
Gams (1) After
left his experiencing
camp aboutdifficulties 0530 on the
with
28th, arriving at the baseand
his (SM) crampons with the
of the
brittle
Glacier Route around 0700 to 0830.off
nature of the climb, lowering
should
He climbed havethe been routean tooption.
the Dike (2)
Leading
Pinnacle with
col, one 8.8
then turned mm rope added,
west toward
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Montana,
1996 Hyalite Canyon, Mummy II Route
through the stretch,
the summit. He then climbed a steep,to the length of
New
the Hampshire, Cannon
narrow snow couloir, north of the to
fall. This positioned him Cliff
closer
On
rock
summitJuly 24, John
outcrops.
pinnacles, One (26)10.5
that and mm
took Lisaor two
him
Tedesco
8.8 mmthe
across reached
ropesnorth would a spot
facehave close
to thebeen under
northwest
the Old
better. (3)
couloir. Man's
Gams Leading chin
realizedon Cannon
out ahegreat Cliff.
was length
off-
They
little
route. could
with
Heor not find theup
no looked
then protection normal
couldexit
the have
corner,
northwest couloir and, thinking it is
led to a the
more Wiessner
distant, finish,
drastic which
fall.
0 619t the final pitch
(Source:
appeared John ofGallagher)
reasonable, Lakeview. started They up.had
Fall on Rock—Block of Rock Came Off, 1996 bought
Protection Pulled
Maryland, a cellular
Out, Rope
Delaware
Below the summit the route phone
Sheath
Water for their
Cut,
Cap, No trip
Hardto Hat, Maryland
Cannon.
Mount (Their
Tammany usual
steepened and turned to hard ice, at climbing area
was
which the
On March timeShawangunks
12,
he before
electednoon, towhere theinto a
exitRalph
left
routes
Chang (36),
chimney, are short.)
Bruce on
climbing The time
Pollock,
rock. Gamswas
and late, said
they
Randall
he were
did not confused
Fairman
have the began about
proper lead how to get
climbing
equipment
off
to the cliff,
onclimb
Mount the and
last there
Tammany. section had
All been
three
of the are rain
showers,
experienced
northwest so around 1900
lead climbers.
couloir. He had single they
At 1245
telephoned
Chang began
leather boots 911. to lead
with a climb
hinged called
crampons
0 639t Two rescuers
“Friends
and one ice ax.rappelled
in High Places”
Gams down
(5.7). to
continued Atthe
up
Stranded, Inexperience, Inadequate Equipment,
1996 Fear, Colorado,
Colorado,
couple. The Eldorado
Eldorado
four people Canyon
Canyon then State Park, Wind Tower
State
this chimney on low fifth class rock
Park,
rappelledWind Tower 40 feet to a brushy
another
which he described as “hard and
On
ledge September
which they 10,followed
two young men
exposed.” Just short of thenorth summit— to
(20,
meet 21)
the and a young
descent trail.woman
They (22)
reached
60 to 100 feet—he encountered a
climbed
the Profile upLakeaboutparking
250 feet loton the
at 5.7)
0200 East
on
steep headwall (estimated at that
Face
the of
25th. Wind Tower and became
was beyond his skill level. After
stranded
Analysis when they could no longer
exploring options, Gams determined
continue
Lt. up (small roof
Newoutcrop), and
1 660a thatEric
he wasStohl nowof theunable toHampshire
continue
were unable of
Department to Fish
negotiate
and climbing
Game (in
Stranded, Off Route, Late Start, New Hampshire,
1996 up or retreat
Cannon Cliff back down the chimney.
charge of all rescues
By mid-afternoon, he in the State)
resigned was
himself
quoted in the Conway
to being rescued. Gams said he knew Daily Sun as
saying that people
that a weather system should wasnot expect
a cellular phone
approaching but did not know to replace properthe
equipment, common
extent of the forecasted storm. sense, and an
understanding
Gams said he spent of one's theown nextlimits
two
while ... climbing.
nights on a small ledge measuring(Source: George
0 662t Hurley)
approximately four feet by ten inches
Fall on Snow/Ice, Moderate Experience,1996
Washington,
wide.Mount
Washington,
He was Rainier
Mount
clothed Rainier
in two light-to-
On
medium-weight layersPorter
August 20, Scott (32), Karl
of synthetic
Ahrens
clothing with a shell jacket and(32)
(35) and Brian Nelson pants,
were
wearing descending
a stockingthe cap upperand Emmons
gloves.
Glacier
An after summiting.
additional medium-weight SMRjacket
members
was foundKim in his Klasch
pack,and which Bobhe had
Schumaker
not worn. (Gams were stated
on standby that he duty at
didn’t
Camp Schurman.
realize this jacket was At 1405 in his Klasch
pack.)was He
0 670t
watching
had minimal parties
foodon and thewater.
route(Source:
when he
Off Route, Stranded, Climbing Alone, Inadequate
1996 Equipment/Clothing, Exceeding Abilities, Wyoming, Gr
Mark Magnuson, SAR Coordinator,
Grand Teton National Park)
(Editor's Note: Close to 60 people
needed for this one impresses me,
and brings to mind Yosemite’s use of
citing some climbers under 36 CFR
2.34 (a ) (4): Creating a Hazardous
0 674t Condition.)

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), Party1997
Separated, Weather, California, Mount Shasta
0 679t
Bolt Pulled Out—Badly Set, Fall on Rock,
1997California, JoshuaJoshua
0 685t
Edited Title: Fall on Snow, Alaska, Mount
1997McKinley,
0 706a
Edited Title: ...and HAPE, HACE, Alaska,
1997MountAlaska,
0 706b
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Wisconsin,
1997 Devil's
0 730a
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Wisconsin,
1997 Devil's
It should be noted that Turegun and
Cain were on school break from their
work as math professors at Oklahoma
City Community College and had
attempted Mount Shasta earlier. Cain
got altitude sickness so they turned
back and traveled to Mount Hood in
Oregon, but the weather was too bad
to climb. They then returned to Mount
Shasta for their ill fated climb.
(Source: Ron Cloud, with thanks to
Sgt. Dave Nickelson—both SAR
members)
California, Tree National Park, Indian
Tree National Cove
Park,
Indian Cove
Having led aid climbs (some solo, and
all without incident) during the long
Thanksgiving weekend, including the
A4’s Rurp Romp and Lost Lid (“New
wave” A2+ or A3) on Beaver Boulder,
I (40) turned my attention toward
another objective for a short day of
WestMount
Alaska, Buttress
McKinley, West
Buttress
Chihiro Sakamaki flew to the Kahiltna
base camp on June 10 and
immediately began climbing the West
Buttress reaching the 14,200 foot
camp within 10 days. By June 19,
Sakamaki had established his camp
at 17,200 feet. He began his summit
McKinley, WestMcKinley,
Mount Buttress West
Buttress
...
Meanwhile, the “AAI 2” expedition, led
by Mimi Bourquin, arrived at the
Kahiltna base camp on June 4. The
expedition reached the 14,200 foot
camp on June 14 and had established
a camp at 17,200 feet by June 18.
Lake State
Wisconsin, Park Lake State Park
Devil’s
On June 21, two young men (18 and
19) were climbing without ropes in a
remote area of the park when one of
them dislodged a rock and started to
fall. The rock then struck the second
climber, causing him to fall. The first
victim fell about 80 feet, the second
about 20 feet. Injuries were several
Lake State
Wisconsin, Park Lake State Park
Devil’s

(Editor’s note: There were four other

incidents reported from Devil’s
Lake....and one was a 15 year old on
a top rope who fell and pendulumed,
resulting in a broken arm…)
0 730b
 Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Wyoming,
1997 Grand Tetons,
Wyoming, Middle
Grand Teton Middle
Tetons,
Teton
On August 20 around 1400, while
descending the Southwest Couloir of
the Middle Teton, Paul Schladensky
(34) fell on a snowfield just above the
Middle/South Teton Saddle. He
initially attempted to arrest using only
0 740t
his hands and heels (while on his
Faulty Use of Crampons—Glissading, New 1997Hampshire, FrankensteinFrankenstein
New Hampshire, Cliff and GulfCliff
of Slides
...
At Frankenstein a woman was doing a
seated glissade from just below
Standard Route. She caught a
crampon and was flipped face down
for the remainder of the slide to the
tracks. Her ankle was injured and she
had to be carried to the parking lot.
0 744a
...
Faulty Use of Crampons—Glissading, New 1997Hampshire, Frankenstein...Cliff
New Hampshire, Gulfand of Gulf
Slidesof Slides
...
In the Gulf of Slides a man was doing
a seated glissade when he caught a
crampon. He flipped and impaled
himself on his ice ax through his mid-
section. He walked out to the AMC
Pinkham Notch Camp with the ax still
0 744b
through his abdomen from the upper
Stranded, Failure to Follow Route, Climbing
1997 Alone and Unroped,
Oregon, MountHaste,
Hood Weather, Oregon, Mount Hood
On Friday, May 31, I arrived at
Timberline Lodge at 2330 with the
intent of climbing Mount Hood via the
New
Sandy York, Mohonk
Glacier Preserve,
Headwall, a moderate
Shawangunks There
snow and ice route. I hiked wastoonlythe one
report of stings, but it was
summit via the south side/Hogsback a very
serious one, sunrise.
route before becauseFinding
the victim is
excellent
0 750t “deathly allergic” and
to bee stings.
snow conditions clear, coldIn this
Soloing fatality, New York, Mohonk Preserve,
1997 Shawangunks
case, they were white faced hornets
encountered at the end of the first
pitch of Le Teton (5.9). Thaedra (23)
worked quickly to set some protection,
because
New York, she knew that
Mohonk if (more likely
Preserve,
when)
Shawangunks ...accidentscould
she passed out, she fall
occurred
70 feet to the deck. Her epi-pen,
while ascending, one of them being a
0 752a unfortunately, waswhile
160-foot fatal fall in her pack on the
soloing.
ground below. Her partner came to
Hornet Attack, New York, Mohonk Preserve,
1997 Shawangunks
the rescue, part of which could be
called an epi-epic, as he climbed up to
her unroped with epi-pen in mouth!
He too was stung—about 15 times—
before getting the epi-pen to her and
effecting a lower. A trip to the hospital
that included another shot and some
0 752b benadryll led to a sufficient recovery.
 Upon
Rainbow
already awakening
wetWallto intheRedhe would
bone,Rock withhave
Canyon,
no storm a
placed his extra
climber (35)2)accidentally
protection. clothes
They had no and hat on
dislodged
spare aas
rope
well
four as
foothis
and got byrain
one two
stuck,jacket
footbut bysince
six inch
luckily hefreed
would it.
have been
sandstone
(Hint: Theyblockin the
couldthat spray
have of
felltakenice their It
water.
100 feet
was
third dark
before in thehis
striking
rope along moat andofhe
partner
instead would
(34)on
chopping the it,
Weather, Inadequate Equipment, California,
1998 Yosemite
have Valley,
placed El
his Capitan
headlamp on histwo
back of histhe
if, noticing head and back.weather,
threatening The
head
then andrigged
turned
rappelled
they had itthe
totheir on.base
All this
fixed was
of the
pitch as ina
preparation
route,
rappel.) where for a climb
the victim
3) Finally, out
they was of
got off the
placed
routein
moat.
his However,
but sleeping
stumbled bag
acrossFahlberg
and ahis fixed had
partner left to
line that
sustained
saved them. (Source: Dan Hornerwell
find help. a
The majorLas head
Vegas injury as
Metropolitan and
as
Johnbeing
Police hypothermic,
Department
Dill, NPS Rangers, SARand unit he lost
Yosemite
consciousness
responded,
National Park) andbeforethe victim being wasable to
0 802t extract
successfully evacuated by litterhave
himself. Fahlberg may and
untied his own
helicopter. shoe laces
In addition to the prior to histo
injuries
Fall on Rock, Fall into Moat, Climbing 1998
Alone, Wyoming, Grand Teton, Mount Teewinot
death.
his head,(It is
henothadunusual
a tension for
hypothermia
pneumothorax. victims to undress
themselves
Analysis in the later stages of that
condition.) The
Loose rock is common food in his on manypack was of the
apparently untouched,
routes here, even the ones that which supports
the idea thata the
experience lot ofaccident
traffic. occurred
The victims on
the ascent as opposed
helmet was deeply scored, and given to the descent.
0 819t (Source: Rich on
the laceration Perch, SAR Ranger)
his scalp under the
Fall on Snow, Failure to Follow Route, 1998
Inadequatehelmet
Equipment,
Oregon, Exceeding
Three-Fingered
and the size and Abilities,
Jack,of
force Oregon,
South
the Three-Finger
Ridge
falling block, he almost certainly would
On
have October 26, Karl
been killed had Iwenhe not (20s)
been fell to
his death while
wearing a helmet. descending Three-
Fingered
Being ableJack. to self-rescue to the
As he was
bottom of theunfamiliar
route, even with though
the the
mountain, Karl asked
victim was not able to walk out, to join twomade
climbers
a reasonablyhe met timelyat the trailhead.
rescue TheyIt
possible.
0 835t
completed
may the “technical”
have prevented part offrom
the victim the
Falling Rock, Nevada, Red Rocks Canyon 1998
NCA
becoming hypothermic or developing
a life threatening tension
pneumothorax during the course of
what would have been a complex
night time big wall rescue. (Source:
James Roberts, Las Vegas
Metropolitan Police Department SAR)
0 840t
Rappel Anchor Failure, Fall on Rock, Washington,
1998 Mount Thompson,
Washington, MountWest Ridge West
Thompson,
Ridge
On September 17, two climbers had
completed an ascent of Mount
Thompson via the West Ridge and
decided to rappel down the route
instead of down-climbing the adjacent
East Ridge (Class 3). The victim
0 846t
established the rappel line using a
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone, Inadequate
1998
Clothing and Equipment,
Wyoming, Grand Inexperience, Wyoming,
Teton National Park, Grand Teton
Disappointment Peak
On October 5 at 1245, John Jay
Leach (23) fell to his death while
climbing up cliffs above Amphitheater
Lake. He fell an estimated 150 feet
from or near the East Chimney route
on Disappointment Peak at an
0 853t
elevation of approximately 10,000
 Cornice Collapse, Alaska, Mount Deception
1991 Alaska, Mount Deception
On April 2, 1990, Jim Bouchard (34)
and Gary Donofrio (27) departed the
Parks Highway for their approach to
climb Mount Deception at 3600
meters. On April 7, they made it to
their 1730 meter basecamp on the
Eldridge Glacier. Over the 8th, they
0 87t
ascended the southeast spur to 2280
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, Fall
1999
into Crevasse,
Alaska,Inadequate Protection,
Mount McKinley, Weather, Alaska, Mount M
West
Buttress
On May 26 at 1431, Australian
climber John Sides (29), a member of
the AUSPAT expedition, fell while
descending the Rescue Gully on
Denali. Sides slid 300 feet to the brink
of a crevasse, then fell down into it
0 885t
and came to rest on a snow bridge.
HAPE, Ascending Too Fast, Inadequate1999Fluids, Alaska,
Alaska, Mount
MountMcKinley,
McKinley,West
WestButtress
Buttress
On June 18, at 1030, Lucas Vidal
Proveda, leader of the Spanish
expedition Grup De Montanya,
reported to Ranger Roger Robinson
at the 14,200 foot camp on Mount
McKinley that a member of his
0 894t
expedition was ill. Robinson
Fall on Ice, Climbing Unroped, Party Separated,
1991 Exposure,
California,California, Mount Shasta
Mount Shasta
On November 4 Paul Scarborough
(55) and his son Dean Scarborough
(23) attempted to climb the north side
of Mount Shasta. They left their base
camp (located at the 3050 meter
level) and proceeded via the Hotlum-
Bolam Route, which is considered one
0 93t
of the more difficult routes on the
Edited Title: Faulty Use of Crampons and
1999Loss ofNew
Control—Voluntary
Hampshire, MountGlissade, New Hampshire, Mounta
Washington,
Tuckerman Ravine Trail
On December 30 there were two
separate accidents involving sliding
with crampons. In the first incident, a
party of two was descending the
Summit Cone by glissading with
crampons on their feet. One of the
0 940a
climbers snagged his crampon and
Faulty Use of Crampons and Loss of Control—Voluntary
1999 Glissade, Inadequate
New Hampshire, Equipment—No Ice Ax, N
Mount Washington,
Tuckerman Ravine Trail
...In the second accident, a party of
two climbing the summit cone had
crampons on their feet and no ice
axes. One tripped and with no ax to
self arrest with, slid 300 feet into a
rock outcrop badly dislocating his
0 940b
ankle in the process. Local Mountain
 free
grade the
avalanche fixed
2 or line, he
danger
3 terrain. infound
is The the it neatlyis
mid-range
difference
piled
of the on a
scale. ledge
The 100
party
that climbers have ice tools in theirfeet below
involved its
in the
anchor,
avalanche out of view
accident
hands when walking up the rolling of
had the rim
considered because
of
the the
steps.riskrounded
andtodecided
Due nature
his toofgothe
inexperience, face.
anyway M. but
Either
to try a
and hiker
finish hadthe come
climb
misjudged the risk if he slipped while along
as fastandas
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection, Poor2000
Position, pulled
Inexperience and Avalanche (Two Separate Accidents) —
unroped and without an ice tool in (or
possible up the
in rope
order to out of
minimize curiositytheir his
maliciousness?),
exposure. By midday,or
hand. The ice ramp below him was it had
very piled
strong up
there
warm
polished when andArt
winds had first threwThe
begun.
unforgiving. it over.
He He
survivor
slipped
hadn’t
seconds after detaching from the so
said thatbrought
about a
theharness
time thethat day,
slide hit
he
them,couldn’t
rappel, he and
before rappel
his to check
partner
anyone were
could the
warn him
placement
concerned
of the danger. directly.
by the winds Fromand his by the
viewpoint,
fact it wasParks
(Source: he had
taking beenso
them
Canada pretty
longsure
Warden to get
0 958a he’d
set up
Service) seen
to gothe end
down. of the rope at the
bottom,
There were but nowseven he’ll
other never know for
climbers on
Edited Title: Fall on Ice, Inadequate Protection,
2000 and Avalanche (Two Separate Accidents) — Alberta, Ban
sure.
Cascade Furthermore,
when the slide he now realizes
occurred.
the
They importance
all must have of anchoring
made some the kind
bottom of the of
of calculation linetheasriskwellofasclimbing
the top.
Here
there are thattwoday.more But onereasons has to to wonder
go
down
to what the entireany
extent line: ofFirst,
themto locate
were also
any sharp edges
influenced simplyand by the protect
presence the rope
of
against
so manythem. others Second,
on the climb. to anchor the
(Source:
0 958b rope
ParksinCanadaone or more Warden intermediate
Service)
Edited title: Snow Blindness ...— Alaska,2000 spots.
Alaska, Mount McKinley amount of
Mount McKinley This minimizes the
time
On June the rope
15, bothis abrading
a Southon an edge
African
as a climber
McKinley ascends,consisting
expedition, and allows of Ian
more
Bailey,than Steve oneCamp,
personand to ascend
Anthony
simultaneously.
Tonder, and a Taiwan Chen
Art, Robert,consisting
expedition and Eric agreed of Boa Hwan that if
they’d
You and brought
Mei Hsing moreChen, water returned
they would to
have
the 17,200-foot camp after reaching to
been willing to rappel, or even
0 995a tackle
Mount the climb out.
McKinley’s BasedThe
summit. on aSouth
Edited title: Acute Mountain Sickness — 2000
Alaska,minimum
Mount McKinley
Alaska, Mount McKinley
requirement of two liters per
On June
day, plus 15,
a day both or amore
South of African
reserve,
McKinley
they wereexpedition,
short before consisting
they started. of Ian
Bailey,pointed
They Steve out,Camp, and Anthony
themselves, that
Tonder,
they and
didn’t a Taiwan
carefully do Chenthe math, but
expedition
just looked consisting
at the pile of of Boa
bottles Hwanand
You and Mei Hsing Chen,
figured it was enough. In other words, returned to
the 17,200-foot camp
pay as much attention to your water after reaching
0 995b
Mount
as you McKinley’s
do to your rack. summit. The South
Stranded — Did Not Check Fixed Ropes, 2000
Dehydration, Fatigue, Weather — California, Yosemite Valley,
Finally, being able to yell to your
friends is a classic benefit of Valley
climbing. In a more remote part of the
park, such as Mt. Watkins, Art,
Robert, and Eric may have been
forced to solve the problem on their
own. (Source: John Dill, NPS Ranger,
1 997tt Yosemite National Park)...
 S
AG
lied

FT

d
TO
App

nce
ate
e
Littl

e ri e
UN

de r
0

5
s

15 - 2

21 - 2

26 - 3

31 - 3

36 - 5

51 - 7
Tag

No/
< 15

> 75
CO

E xp
Mo
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Equipment,
1
Inadequate
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Knot &
Tie-in Error,
Rappel Error
2
Experienced, 9
Minor,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Cornice /
Minor, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund
2
Deadly, 10
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo, Non-
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
2
Ski-related ,
Deadly, 9
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
1 1
Poor
Experienced, 10
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
2
Icefall / Serac
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing

1
Serious, Aid 3
& Big Wall,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Inadequate
Equipment
1 1 1 1
No/Little, 6
Deadly,
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo, No
Helmet

2 1
Deadly, 7
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo, No
Helmet, Late
in Day,
Fatigue
1
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo

1 1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet

1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Gear Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness
1
Deadly, Head 7
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
2 1
Equipment
No/Little, 12
Experienced,
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
1 1 1
aineering, Ice
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
1 1
Snow Bridge
Serious, 8
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Natural
Deadly, 4
Unroped ,
Solo, Natural
Rockfall

Deadly, 4
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall

1
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crowds,
2
Object
No/Little, 10
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Piton/Ice
Screw,
Crampon
1 1 1
Issues, Ice
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Natural
Rockfall

1
Serious, 4
Roped, Poor
Position,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

1
Deadly, 8
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Serious, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather
1
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness, Ski-
related

1
Experienced, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Knot & Tie-in
Error,
1
Inadequate
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Wildlife
Serious, 7
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Bouldering,
Handhold/Fo
2 1
othold Broke
Serious, 7
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Pendulum,
Off-route,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Minor,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Piton/Ice
Screw, Ice
3 1
Climbing,
Deadly, 12
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1 1
Cornice /
Minor, 7
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone, Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
1
Stranded /
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone, Non-
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
1
aineering,
No/Little, 6
Minor,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Stranded /
Lost /
1
Overdue
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
4 1 1
Lost /
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
1
Weather
Deadly, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather,
Inadequate
3
Protection /
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Inadequate
1 1
Protection /
Serious, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled
Minor, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Gym /
Moderate,
Artificial,
Experienced,Gym
Climber,
Serious,
Inadequate
Minor,
Protection
Descent, /
Pulled
Roped,
9
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund 2 1
Serious, 9
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
1
aineering,
No/Little, 8
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
1 1
Climbing,
Experienced, 9
Deadly,
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
2
Alpine/Mount
Moderate, 9
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Late in
Day, Fatigue,
Belay Error,
Miscommunic
1 1
ation
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, No
Helmet,
2 1
Inadequate
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, No
Helmet,
1 1
Fatigue,
Unknown, 5
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Off-route

3 1
No/Little, 10
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Run
Out, Ledge
1 1
Fall, Large
No/Little, 8
Experienced,
Serious,
Minor,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
2 1
Poor
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
2 1
Fatigue
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Rushed

3 1
No/Little, 7
Experienced,
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route
1 1
Deadly, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
2 1
Weather,
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Object
Dropped/Disl
2
odged
No/Little, 7
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
1 2 1 1
Fatigue
Moderate, 8
Experienced,
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
1 1 1
Issues,
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped, Knot
& Tie-in
Error,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
1
Anchor
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Knot
& Tie-in
Error,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
1
Rappel Error
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Deadly, 3
Severe
Weather,
Large Group

Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
No/Little,
Descent,
Serious,
Unroped
Head ,
/ Brain
Alpine/Mount
Injury,
aineering,
Descent,
Glissading
Alpine/Mount 1 2
aineering,
9
Poor
Position,
Severe
Weather, Off-
route,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 1 1 1
Minor, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1
Minor, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Party
Separated,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
Serious, 7
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather, Off-
route, Fatigue
1 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Anchor
Failure / Error

No/Little, 7
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
1
Exposure,
No/Little, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness, Party
Separated

1 1
Serious, 4
Roped,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Anchor
Failure / Error
1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Unroped , 6
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Visibility,
Large Group
Experienced, 9
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo, Non-
climbing,
1
Alpine/Mount
Serious, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Fatigue,
Distracted

Experienced, 8
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Severe
Weather, Run
1
Out,
Deadly, Top- 5
Rope,
Unroped , Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Equipment

1
Serious, 7
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues, Ice
Climbing,
Exposure,
Inadequate
Serious, 4
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues

No/Little, 5
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo

1 1 1 1
Serious, 5
Unroped ,
Solo, No
Helmet,
Intoxicated

1
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
No/Little, 7
Deadly,
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1 1
Pulled
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Sport,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Bouldering,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Large Group,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Serious, 4
Roped, Sport,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Gym Climber,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
No/Little, 4
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo

1 1
No/Little, 6
Deadly,
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Stranded /
Lost /
1
Overdue
Serious, 5
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

Experienced, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Avalanche,
1 1
Inadequate
Deadly, 6
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Large Group
3 1 1
Deadly, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues

1 1
Serious, 7
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled,
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1 1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

Experienced, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Exposure,
Severe
2 1 1
Weather,
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness
No/Little,
Experienced,
Deadly,
Serious,
Alpine/Mount 1
aineering,
10
Ascent
Illness,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Party
Separated 1 3 1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Sport,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Serious, Non- 3
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

Deadly, 5
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

1
Deadly, 5
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route

Serious, 7
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Glissading
Serious, 5
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Exposure,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1
Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Stranded /
Lost /
No/Little, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Late in Day,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Stranded /
1 1
Lost /
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Inadequate
1 1
Equipment,
Minor, 6
Unroped ,
Solo, Ice
Climbing,
Exposure,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
Minor, 8
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo, Non-
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Avalanche
Serious, 7
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Severe
2
Weather
No/Little, 8
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
4 1
Position,
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
1 1
Protection /
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Large Group
1 1
No/Little, 8
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
1 1
Alpine/Mount
Experienced, 8
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
1
aineering,
Minor, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Gear Broke

No/Little, 4
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

2 1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
3 1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Top-
Rope, No
Helmet,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
1 1
Minor, 5
Roped, Top-
Rope, No
Helmet,
Belay Error

No/Little, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Fatigue,
Large Group,
1 1
Inadequate
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Deadly, Head 5
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet

1
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet

Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Poor Position

1 1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Fatigue,
Large Group,
1 1 1
Inadequate
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Severe
Weather, No
Helmet,
1
Inadequate
Unroped , 5
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Rushed
1
No/Little, 9
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather,
1 1
Rushed,
Roped, Trad 3
Climbing,
Natural
Rockfall

Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Anchor
Failure / Error
1
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Serious, Non-
climbing,
Severe
Weather

1
Serious, 8
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Crevasse /
Moat /
1 2 1
Berschrund,
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
1 1
Large Group,
Serious, 7
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Inadequate
1
Equipment
6
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Poor
Position,
Large Group 25
Moderate, 9
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped, No
Helmet, Gear
Broke,
Anchor
1 1
Failure /
Serious, 10
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
1 2
Poor
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
2 1
Moat /
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Off-
route,
Stranded /
1
Lost /
No/Little, 8
Experienced,
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather, Off-
2 1
route,
No/Little, 12
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1 1 1
Exposure,
Unknown, 8
Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Exposure,
Visibility,
1
Severe
Serious, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Visibility,
Miscommunic
ation
1 1
Deadly, 6
Serious,
Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Visibility
Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
Distracted
Experienced, 12
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
1
Alpine/Mount
Serious, 11
Descent,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
1
Exposure,
Unknown, 6
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness,
Visibility,
Miscommunic
1
ation
Moderate, 13
Serious,
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Poor
Unroped , 5
Visibility,
Gym /
Artificial, Gym
Climber,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
Deadly, Head 6
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo, Severe
Weather

1 1
No/Little, 14
Serious,
Minor,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
1
Issues, Ice
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
1 1
Position,
No/Little, 8
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo, Non-
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
1
Inadequate
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility

2 1
Deadly, 6
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Inadequate
1 1
Equipment
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, No
Helmet,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
1
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Handhold/Fo
1
othold Broke
Roped, Trad 4
Climbing,
Visibility,
Fatigue

Experienced, 4
Roped,
Visibility,
Belay Error

1
Deadly, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Large Group,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled,
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Off-
route, Run
1
Out,
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Belay Error
No/Little, 8
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility, Off-
1
route
Serious, 5
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Visibility

No/Little, 10
Deadly,
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
1 1
aineering,
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Inadequate
Equipment

1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Minor,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Inadequate
1 1
Protection /
Serious, 7
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Inadequate
Equipment
No/Little, 5
Unroped ,
Solo, Ice
Climbing,
Visibility

1 1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Visibility,
Crowds,
1 1 1
Object
Serious, 9
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
1 2
Exposure,
Serious, 3
Descent,
Roped

1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Roped,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Inadequate
1
Equipment
Serious, 6
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Large Group
Serious, 8
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Anchor
Failure /
Error,
Stranded /
Serious, 6
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Fatigue,
Distracted

No/Little, 7
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Inadequate
1
Equipment
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Late in Day,
1
Stranded /
No/Little, 6
Minor,
Roped,
Visibility,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
1 1 1
Overdue
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Serious,
Visibility,
Unroped ,
Severe
Solo,
Weather,
Climbing 1 1
Inadequate
Alone,
9
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
Avalanche,
Visibility, Late
Start 1
Deadly, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Visibility

1
Deadly, Head 11
/ Brain Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
2
Collapse,
Serious, 10
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Exposure,
Visibility, Run
Out, Ledge
1
Fall, Large
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
1 1
Climbing,
No/Little, 6
Experienced,
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather
1 1
No/Little, 12
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Visibility,
2 2 1
Natural
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Visibility,
Large Group,
Intoxicated
2 1 1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Gym Climber

1 1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Serious, 3
Unroped ,
Bouldering

1 1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Bouldering

1
Experienced, 6
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Experienced, 10
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure, No
Helmet, Gear
1 1
Broke,
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 2
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1 1
Serious, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

3 1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1 1
No/Little, 11
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
1 1
aineering,
Experienced, 11
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
2
Avalanche,
7
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Fatigue,
Large Group 1
Deadly, 8
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Rushed, No
Helmet,
Object
1 3
Dropped/Disl
No/Little, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
1
Helmet,
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
Equipment,
1 1 1
Stranded /
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
1 1
Berschrund,
Serious, 6
Roped,
Pendulum,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Large Group
1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Severe
Serious, 7
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
No Helmet,
Fatigue
1 1 1 1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Off-route,
1 1 1
Inadequate
Serious, 14
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
No/Little,
Climbing,
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
Descent,
aineering,
Roped, 1 1
Exposure,
Alpine/Mount
8
aineering,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
Error 1 1
Experienced, 8
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Ledge Fall,
Fatigue, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error
Serious, 3
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1 1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure, No
Helmet,
1 1
Inadequate
Deadly, Head 6
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Party
Separated
1 2
No/Little, 3
Unroped ,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue

1
Serious, 4
Descent,
Roped,
Rappel Error

1
Serious, 5
Roped, Gear
Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Anchor
Failure / Error
1
Experienced, 9
Deadly,
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Exposure,
Experienced, 10
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Alpine/ 3
Mountaineeri
ng,
Avalanche,
Party
Separated

Experienced, 13
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
1 1 1
Climbing,
Experienced, 14
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
1 1
Snow Bridge
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues, Ice
Climbing,
Serious, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Fatigue
1
Moderate, 12
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
1
Climbing,
Serious, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
1
Berschrund
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
No/Little, 10
Serious,
Minor, Head /
Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
1
Climbing,
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Rushed
1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Fatigue,
Distracted

1
Serious, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Piton/Ice
Screw,
Inadequate
Protection /
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Piton/Ice
Screw, Late
in Day,
Inadequate
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled, Belay
Error
1 1
Serious, 3
Unroped ,
Bouldering
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
1
Inadequate
No/Little, 7
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility
1 2 1
Deadly, 9
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 2
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Large Group,
1 1
Distracted,
Serious, 8
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
Helmet,
Large Group,
Belay Error,
1
Rappel Error
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Object
Dropped/Disl
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness, Poor
Cond/Season
2 1 1
al Risk,
No/Little, 6
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo

1 1
Experienced, 10
Serious,
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Off-route,
Ledge Fall,
Experienced, 1 1
Inadequate
Deadly, Head
8
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
Error
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Large
Group, Knot
& Tie-in
Error, Anchor
Failure / Error
Deadly, 3
Roped, Gear
Broke
Serious, 7
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Fatigue,
Distracted,
Minor, Head / 7
Brain Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues, No
Helmet,
Large Group,
Inadequate
Serious, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Rushed

Deadly, 10
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
3
Collapse,
Serious, 7
Minor, Head /
Brain Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
2
Crevasse /
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Rushed,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Stranded /
Lost /
1
Overdue
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues, Ice
Climbing,
Gear Broke,
1
Inadequate
Alpine/ 7
Mountaineeri
ng, Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Party
Separated,
Fatigue,
1
Inadequate
Minor, 7
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Inadequate
Equipment,
1 1
Stranded /
No/Little, 9
Experienced,
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
1 1 1
Inadequate
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Late in Day,
Stranded /
Lost /
1
Overdue
Experienced, 8
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Avalanche,
1
Off-route
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Large Group,
Miscommunic
ation
1
No/Little, 10
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
2 1
Ascent
Experienced, 9
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Ice
Climbing, No
Helmet, Knot
& Tie-in
Error, Rappel
1
Error,
5

Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering 2 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Distracted

2
Serious, 5
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather,
Large Group
1
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Roped, Sport

2 1
No/Little, 7
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1 1
Stranded /
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone

1 1
No/Little, 6
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
1 1
No/Little, 7
Descent,
Unroped ,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk, Late
in Day,
Inadequate
2 1
Equipment,
Serious, 5
Roped, Sport,
Belay Error,
Miscommunic
ation
Serious, 4
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
No/Little, 1
Experienced,
8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1 1 1
Experienced, 10
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
2
Crevasse /
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Severe
Weather, Run
Out, No
1
Helmet,
Serious, 6
Roped,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Belay Error
1
Experienced, 11
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
2
Poor
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
1 1
al Risk,
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet

1
No/Little, 7
Moderate,
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Off-
route, Ledge
Fall
1 2 1 1
Serious, 4
Descent,
Large Group,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall

2
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Large Group,
Handhold/Fo
1
othold Broke
Deadly, Non- 4
climbing,
Large Group,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

1
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
No Helmet,
Handhold/Fo
1
othold Broke,
Experienced, 10
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, No
Helmet, Late
Start,
Handhold/Fo
1 1
othold Broke,
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Fatigue,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
2 1
Anchor
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Severe
Weather,
Rushed,
Lowering
2
Error
No/Little, 6
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather, Off-
route, Late
Start
1 1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Poor Position
1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading
1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Piton/Ice
Screw,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Solo,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled, Belay
1
Error
Minor, Solo, 6
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather,
Stranded /
1
Lost /
No/Little, 6
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
1 1
Overdue
Minor, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1
No/Little, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Severe
Weather,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
2 1
Miscommunic
Descent, 10
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Ice
Climbing,
Visibility, Late
in Day,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
2
Equipment,
Serious, 5
Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
Avalanche
1
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche
2
No/Little, 10
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness, Ice
Climbing,
1 1
Poor
No/Little, 7
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche,
Crevasse /
1
Moat /
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche
1 1
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Severe
No/Little, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Inadequate
1
Equipment
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 3
Roped,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

No/Little, 9
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Late in Day,
Fatigue,
1
Inadequate
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo, Ice
Climbing,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche,
1
Severe
Serious, 9
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Party
1
Separated,
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone

Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone, No
Helmet,
Stranded /
Deadly,
Lost /
Unroped ,
6
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Severe
Weather,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 1
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Solo, Ledge
Fall

1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Deadly, 6
Roped, Sport,
Poor
Position, Run
Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Moderate, 7
Experienced,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
1 1 1
Protection /
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, No
Helmet,
Belay Error

1 1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled, Belay
Error
1
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled, Belay
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone

No/Little, 6
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Party
Separated
1
Deadly, Top- 5
Rope,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

Descent, 8
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Rushed,
1
Inadequate
Serious, 7
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Fatigue,
1
Large Group
Serious, Non- 7
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
1
Late Start
Head / Brain 6
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
No Helmet,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
Serious, 6
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Large Group
1 2
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Inadequate
Equipment
1 1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Exposure,
Rushed,
Experienced, 2 1
Large Group
Minor,
7
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 1 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

2
Moderate, 8
Deadly,
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
2 1
Rappel Error
No/Little, 11
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Pendulum,
Severe
Weather,
Late in Day,
1
Late Start,
Deadly, Ice 3
Climbing,
Natural
Rockfall

2
Minor, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Rappel Error
1 1
No/Little, 10
Moderate,
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Top-
1 1 1 1
Rope, Object
Moderate, 5
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Descent, 2
Alpine/Mount
aineering

Deadly, 5
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

No/Little, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
1
Fatigue,
No/Little, 9
Minor,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Visibility, Late
in Day, Party
Separated,
Fatigue,
2 1
Stranded /
 4

Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche

3
Serious, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1 1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Inadequate
1 4 1
Equipment,
Moderate, 9
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
1
Crevasse /
Deadly, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
2
Glissading,
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Helmet,
No Backup or
1
End Knot,
Unroped , 2
Solo

1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1 1
Serious, 7
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Inadequate
1
Equipment
Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury, Top-
Rope,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Roped, Trad 4
Climbing,
Piton/Ice
Screw,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
Helmet
1
Unroped , 5
Solo,
Bouldering,
Severe
Weather, No
Helmet

1
Experienced, 10
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1 1
Crampon
Deadly, Head 4
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Serious, 9
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
2
Icefall / Serac
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
Deadly, Head 4
/ Brain Injury,
Poor
Position,
Natural
Rockfall

1
Alpine/ 3
Mountaineeri
ng, Poor
Position,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

4
Unknown,
Deadly,
Serious,Head
/Alpine/Mount
Brain Injury,
Roped,
aineering,Trad
Climbing,
Object
Alpine/Mount
Dropped/Disl
aineering,
odged 1
Piton/Ice
9
Screw,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged, Gear
Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1
Descent, 6
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather, Off-
route,
Inadequate
1 2
Equipment
Serious, 8
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Ledge Fall,
No Backup or
End Knot,
3
Lowering
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues

1
No/Little, 5
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading

1 1
Experienced, 10
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Piton/Ice
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Rappel Error
1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Severe
1 1 1
Weather,
No/Little, 17
Deadly,
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
1 1 1
Exposure,
Experienced, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Fatigue

1
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Gear
Broke,
1 2 1
Anchor
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Exposure

Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche
No/Little, 6
Minor,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
1 1
Collapse
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
No/Little,
Serious,
Head / Brain
8
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Late Start,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Intoxicated 1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone

1
No/Little, 8
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Rushed, No
1 1
Helmet
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues
1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ledge Fall,
Fatigue

Serious, 4
Pendulum,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Fatigue

Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Severe
Weather,
Distracted,
Belay Error

No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Pendulum,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Moderate, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Run Out,
2 1
Inadequate
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo, No
Helmet,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1
Descent, 6
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Ledge Fall,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
1
Protection /
Deadly, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche
1
No/Little, 10
Deadly,
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1 1 1
Ascent
Moderate, 8
Deadly,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
1 1 1
Crevasse /
Deadly, 5
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

No/Little, 12
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
3 1 1
Piton/Ice
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Crowds,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

2
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Severe
1 1
Weather,
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

1
Experienced, 8
Minor,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
2
Weather,
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
1 1
Inadequate
No/Little, 10
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Serious,Trad
Climbing,
Head / Brain 1 1 1
Alpine/Mount
Injury,
8
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Poor
Position, Off-
route
No/Little,
6
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Fatigue,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 1
Moderate, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Rappel
Error

Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Rappel Error
1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Gear Broke,
Anchor
Failure / Error
1
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Distracted,
No Backup or
End Knot,
1 1
Rappel Error
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall, Late
Start
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Distracted,
1
Inadequate
Serious, 10
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
1 2
Weather,
Minor, 7
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Natural
Rockfall,
Stranded /
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Stranded /
1 1
Lost /
No/Little, 10
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Visibility, Late
1 1
in Day,
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Pendulum,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
2 1
Severe
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1
No/Little, 9
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Anchor
Failure /
1 1 1
Error,
Deadly, 7
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Large Group,
Rappel Error
1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
2 1
Fatigue,
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Bouldering
1
Serious, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone, No
Helmet

1
Deadly, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone

1
Deadly, 10
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
Helmet, Late
in Day,
1 1
Fatigue, Knot
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped, Knot
& Tie-in
Error, Rappel
Error

No/Little, 8
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo, Poor
Position, No
Helmet,
Object
Dropped/Disl
1 3 1
odged,
Serious, 7
Descent,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
1
Moat /
No/Little, 6
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled, Belay
Error,
Miscommunic
2 1
ation
5

Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Ledge Fall,
Belay Error 1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Solo,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Belay Error

1
No/Little, 8
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Run
Out, No
Helmet
1 1 1
Minor, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Gym Climber,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled, Belay
Error
1
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Severe
Weather,
Rushed,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled, Belay
Error
1
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet, Gym
Climber,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
3

Experienced,
Serious,
Severe
Weather
Roped, Trad 3
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

1
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled,
No/Little, 8
Deadly,
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
1 1 1 1 1
Cond/Season
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
Inadequate
Equipment
1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Inadequate
Equipment
1
Serious, 4
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Equipment

2
6
Experienced,
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route 1 1
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
Helmet

2
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route, No
Helmet,
3 1 1
Large Group
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Avalanche,
Head / Brain 5
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Top-Rope,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

Serious, 5
Roped, Top-
Rope, No
Helmet,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
1
Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Natural
Rockfall, No
Helmet

1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Party
2 1
Separated,
No/Little, 8
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
1 1 1
Late in Day,
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
1 1
Lowering
No/Little, 8
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Poor
Position, Off-
1 1
route, No
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped, Belay
Error, Rappel
Moderate,
Error
Experienced,
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, 1
Alpine/Mount
10
aineering,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Crowds,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 1 3 2 1 1 1
No/Little, 7
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo, Off-
route, No
Helmet,
Stranded /
Lost /
1 1 1
Overdue
No/Little, 2
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue

2 1
4
Alpine/
Mountaineeri
ng, Off-route,
Late in Day,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
No/Little, 7
Experienced,
Minor,
Descent,
Roped,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
1 1 1
Rappel Error
Minor, 5
Descent,
Roped,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Rappel Error
1
Descent, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
2
Unknown, 7
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues, Ice
Climbing,
1
Inadequate
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

No/Little, 8
Minor,
Moderate,
Unroped ,
Serious,
Solo,
Descent,
ClimbingTrad
Roped,
Alone, Party
Climbing, Off-
Separated,
route,
Gym Climber,
Inadequate 1 1
Stranded / /
Protection
11
Pulled,
Anchor
Failure /
Error,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Rappel Error 1 1 1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

1
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche

2 1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Crevasse /
4
Moat /
No/Little, 11
Deadly,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Cond/Season
2 1
al Risk,
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue

No/Little, 14
Moderate,
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Visibility, Late
1 2 1 1
in Day, Late
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Fatigue

1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Gear Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 2
No/Little, 12
Deadly,
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
1
Visibility, Off-
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Crevasse /
No/Little, 5
Experienced,
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund
2 1 1
Serious, 8
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
1
Collapse,
Serious, 5
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Belay Error

3
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Late in Day,
Inadequate
Protection /
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Rappel
Error

1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Serious, 4
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo

1
Serious, 4
Roped, Sport,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Piton/Ice
Screw,
Inadequate
Protection /
3 1 2 1
Pulled
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
No Helmet
2
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 9
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Piton/Ice
Screw, Late
in Day,
1 1
Fatigue,
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

Experienced, 7
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Moderate, 7
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo, No
Helmet
1 1
 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Visibility, Late
in Day 2
Deadly, 6
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Exposure,
Late Start
1 2
No/Little, 11
Deadly,
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
1 1 1
Illness, Poor
Serious, 7
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness, Ski-
related ,
2 2
Severe
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Object
Serious, 1
Dropped/Disl
Minor,
7
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled, Belay
Error
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Late in Day,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Off-route,
Stranded /
Lost /
1 1 1
Overdue
Moderate, 8
Descent,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
1 1
Severe
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
1 1
Protection /
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
1 1
Anchor
Descent, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Rappel Error
No/Little, 6
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Rappel Error

1
No/Little, 7
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Anchor
Failure /
2 1
Error, Rappel
Experienced, 10
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
No Helmet,
1 2 1
Anchor
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Anchor
Failure / Error
Serious, 4
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
Helmet

No/Little, 11
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Visibility, Off-
route,
Crowds, Late
1 1 1
Start,
No/Little, 9
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Exposure,
Off-route,
Inadequate
1 1 1
Equipment,
Descent, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Rushed,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
1 1
Overdue
Experienced, 8
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Late in Day,
1 3
Inadequate
Deadly, 6
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
Exposure,
1 1
Severe
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
1
Illness,
Deadly, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
1 1 1
Cornice /
Minor, 7
Descent,
Roped,
Visibility, Late
in Day,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
1
Rappel Error
Roped, Ice 3
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1 1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
2
4

Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Large Group 2
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Rappel Error

1
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo

1 1
No/Little, 5
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo

1
Deadly, Head 5
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo, No
Helmet

1
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Solo, Large
Group

Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Late in Day,
Late Start,
Fatigue
2
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

2 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Equipment

1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Gym Climber,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Late Start,
2 1
Object
Serious, 3
Unroped ,
Bouldering

Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Knot
& Tie-in
Error, Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
Error
Serious, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1 1
Deadly, 5
Descent,
Roped, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
Error
1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Piton/Ice
Screw, Ice
Climbing,
1
Inadequate
Serious, 4
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues

1 1
Serious, 7
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading
Serious, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Inadequate
Equipment
1 1
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Natural
Rockfall
1
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Object
Dropped/Disl
1 2 1
odged
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Large Group,
Experienced,
8
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
No Helmet 1 1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Glissading
Descent, 4
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading

1
Serious, 9
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Natural
Rockfall, No
Helmet,
2
Anchor
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Party
Separated,
1
Fatigue,
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
1
Moat /
No/Little, 10
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
1 1
Inadequate
Descent, 5
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
Error
1
Descent, 3
Roped,
Rappel Error

1
Descent, 3
Roped,
Rappel Error

1
No/Little, 6
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Stranded /
1 1 1
Lost /
Minor, 7
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Inadequate
Equipment,
1
Stranded /
Minor, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
2
Deadly, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
Helmet
1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo, No
Helmet, Party
Separated
2 1
No/Little, 4
Minor,
Descent,
Roped

1 1 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall

Serious, 5
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Moderate, 10
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped
No/Little, ,
Solo,
Deadly, 1 1 1
Alpine/Mount
Serious,
8
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Exposure,
Inadequate
Equipment 2 1 1
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Exposure,
1
Large Group
Serious, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Crevasse /
Moat /
1
Berschrund
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Late
Start,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
3
Minor, 6
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility, Late
in Day,
Stranded /
Lost /
1
Overdue
Serious, 8
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
1
Crevasse /
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

No/Little, 8
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche,
Visibility, Late
1
in Day,
Deadly, 7
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche,
Crevasse /
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Poor
Cond/Season
2
al Risk,
Serious, 2
Alpine/Mount
aineering
Deadly, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone

1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Fatigue
1
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Large Group
1
Deadly, Head 5
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone

1
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone, Off-
route
1
Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing
Roped, Top- 4
Rope, Belay
Error,
Miscommunic
ation

1 1
Experienced, 4
Deadly,
Large Group,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Deadly, Head 7
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Experienced, 8
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Ledge Fall,
Inadequate
1 1
Protection /
Moderate, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out, No
Helmet,
Ledge Fall
1 1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled
Roped, Trad 3
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Roped, Trad 3
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet, Gym
Climber,
Inadequate
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Solo, Gear
Broke
1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall,
1
Inadequate
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Deadly, Head 9
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Distracted,
Knot & Tie-in
Error, Anchor
1
Failure /
Experienced, 10
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
1
aineering,
No/Little, 10
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
1
Illness,
Serious, 7
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Exposure,
Inadequate
1
Protection /
Serious, 7
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Poor
2
Cond/Season
Serious, 9
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Glissading,
Serious, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading
1
Serious, 9
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Run
Out,
Inadequate
1
Food/Water,
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall,
1
Stranded /
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues, Large
Group
1 1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

No/Little, 5
Moderate,
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Moderate,
Inadequate
Serious,
Food/Water
Head / Brain
Injury, 1 1
Descent,
9
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Lowering
Error 1 1
No/Little, 10
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Rushed, Knot
& Tie-in
Error,
1
Inadequate
Experienced, 9
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Inadequate
Descent, 5
Roped, Knot
& Tie-in
Error, Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
Error
1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
Error
1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Non-
climbing,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
Error
1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Inadequate
1 1 1
Equipment,
No/Little, 12
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather, Off-
1 1 1
route, Late
Deadly, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather,
Inadequate
Protection /
5
No/Little,
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Miscommunic
ation 1
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone

2
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Non-climbing,
No Helmet,
Object
1 1 1
Dropped/Disl
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 3
Roped,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 2 1
No/Little, 8
Roped, Sport,
Top-Rope,
Gym Climber,
Knot & Tie-in
Error,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled,
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum

No/Little,
Deadly, Head 1 1 1
/ Brain Injury,
8
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Miscommunic
ation 1 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Experienced, 9
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Run Out, No
1
Helmet,
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
1
aineering,
No/Little, 14
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
1 2 1
Alpine/Mount
Serious, 4
Roped, Top-
Rope, Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

Minor, 7
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Minor,
Anchor
Descent,
7
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Rappel Error 1
Deadly, Head 5
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Large Group
1 1
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Cornice /
No/Little, 10
Minor,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility, Off-
route, Late in
Day, Late
4 1 1
Start, Party
3

Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness 1
Moderate, 9
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche,
Crevasse /
1
Moat /
Deadly, 5
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Severe
Weather
1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Distracted,
Belay Error
1 1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Gear Broke

1
No/Little, 7
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Crevasse /
1
Moat /
Deadly, 6
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Deadly, Non- 2
climbing

No/Little, 8
Deadly,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Ice
Climbing,
Visibility,
Knot & Tie-in
Error, Anchor
1
Failure / Error
Serious, 4
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 6
Roped, Solo,
Climbing
Alone, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled, Belay
Deadly, 4
Unroped ,
Solo, Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

Deadly, Head 5
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo, Off-
route

No/Little, 8
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Anchor
1 1
Failure /
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Pendulum,
Gym Climber,
Inadequate
1 1
Protection /
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Roped, Top-
Rope, No
Helmet, Gym
Climber,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
2 1
Protection /
Deadly, 6
Roped, Aid &
Big Wall,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Gear Broke
1
No/Little, 10
Experienced,
Deadly,
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
4 2 2 4 1
Poor
Experienced, 7
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
Moderate, 6
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
1
Collapse
Serious, 7
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Bergschrund,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Serious, 4
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Minor, 7
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Object
Dropped/Disl
Serious, 5
Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather,
Natural
Rockfall
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather

1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Large Group
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Miscommunic
ation
1
Serious, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Exposure,
Party
Separated
1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Solo,
Inadequate
Food/Water,
1 1
Fatigue
Minor, 5
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather
No/Little, 11
Deadly,
Descent,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Exposure,
Deadly, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility, Off-
route,
Inadequate
1
Protection /
Minor, 7
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Visibility,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Experienced,
Stranded /
Deadly,
Lost /
Serious,
8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1 2
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
Error
No/Little, 9
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Ice
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
1
Inadequate
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Rappel Error
1
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, No
Helmet, No
Backup or
End Knot,
2
Rappel Error
No/Little, 9
Experienced,
Descent,
Roped,
Visibility, Late
in Day,
Inadequate
Equipment,
1 1 1
Stranded /
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Natural
Rockfall

Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Crampon
Serious, 4
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
Moderate, 10
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Knot & Tie-in
Error, Anchor
2 1 1
Failure /
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Large Group,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Miscommunic
ation
1
Deadly, 6
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Avalanche

Minor, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Visibility

1
No/Little, 5
Deadly,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
2 1
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
9
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
No Helmet
Deadly, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues
1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Gear Broke

1 1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Piton/Ice
Screw, Ice
Climbing,
1
Poor
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Belay Error

1 1 1
No/Little, 9
Deadly,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure, No
Helmet, Late
in Day,
1 1
Inadequate
Unroped , 4
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Serious, 2
Ledge Fall

1
Unknown, 6
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Equipment
1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Gear Broke,
Lowering
Error

Serious, 10
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
1 1
Severe
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Fatigue,
Large Group,
Miscommunic
ation
1
No/Little, 7
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled, Belay
No/Little, 7
Moderate,
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled, Belay
1 1 1
Error
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

Experienced, 4
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

Experienced, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Crowds,
Handhold/Fo
2
othold Broke,
No/Little, 7
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Solo,
Visibility,
Rappel Error

1 1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Pendulum,
Rappel Error

No/Little, 5
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1 1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Glissading
1
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
Helmet,
Stranded /
2
Lost /
No/Little, 5
Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Crevasse /
Moat /
1 1
Berschrund
Moderate, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
1 1
aineering
Serious, 8
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
No/Little, 6
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues
1 1
Deadly, 5
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk, Large
Group
1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Inadequate
1 1
Equipment
Serious, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Non-Ascent
Illness
1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche

Experienced, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
1
Position,
Deadly, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
1
Handhold/Fo
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Rushed,
Distracted,
1
Handhold/Fo
No/Little, 11
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
1 1
Gym Climber,
Minor, 5
Descent,
Roped,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Rappel Error
1
Alpine/ 6
Mountaineeri
ng, Exposure,
Visibility, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
No/Little, 7
Minor,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Serious, 1 1
Stranded /
Descent,
6
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Inadequate
Food/Water,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
4

Experienced,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
No/Little, 8
Experienced,
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Knot & Tie-in
Error, Rappel
2 1
Error
Serious, 7
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
1
Helmet
Deadly, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading

Serious, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Avalanche,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Exposure,
Severe
1 1
Weather,
No/Little, 7
Minor,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility, Off-
route,
Stranded /
1
Lost /
No/Little, 12
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
2 1
Glissading,
No/Little, 5
Deadly,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Knot & Tie-in
Error

1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Belay Error
2
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather

1 1
Experienced, 11
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
1 1 1
Crevasse /
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Rappel Error
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled,
Serious, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

Experienced, 5
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo

Experienced, 4
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

Experienced, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo, No
Helmet

1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Gear Broke
Serious, 5
Roped, Sport,
Ledge Fall,
Fatigue

Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Lowering
Error

Roped, No 3
Backup or
End Knot,
Belay Error

1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
Error
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Ledge Fall,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
 5
Experienced,
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Piton/Ice
Screw,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Experienced, 4
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

No/Little,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
9
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness, Late
in Day, Large
Group 1 1 1
No/Little, 10
Experienced,
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Visibility,
No/Little, 4
Serious, Poor
Position,
Gear Broke

1 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Natural
Rockfall

Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Natural
Rockfall

Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

Moderate, 6
Serious,
Natural
Rockfall, Off-
route, Late in
Day,
Stranded /
Lost /
1
Overdue
No/Little, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Fatigue,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Inadequate
1
Protection /
Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Solo, Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Inadequate
1
Protection /
No/Little, 8
Experienced,
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Party
1
Separated,
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

1
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet, No
Backup or
End Knot,
1
Rappel Error
Experienced, 9
Unknown,
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
2
Backup or
Experienced, 8
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error
No/Little, 8
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Visibility, Late
in Day,
Stranded /
1
Lost /
Minor, 9
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
No/Little,
Visibility, Late
Descent,
in Day, Trad
Roped,
Inadequate
Climbing, 1
Equipment,
Exposure,
9
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 2 1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Off-
route,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1
No/Little, 7
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Stranded /
Lost /
2 1
Overdue
No/Little, 8
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Fatigue,
Stranded /
Lost /
1
Overdue,
Deadly, 6
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
1
Avalanche
Experienced, 11
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
1
Poor
No/Little, 12
Experienced,
Deadly,
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
1
Cond/Season
Deadly, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Pendulum,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Deadly, 4
Roped,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Serious,Gear
Broke
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
9
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather, Off-
route
Experienced, 9
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
2
aineering, Ice
No/Little, 7
Experienced,
Serious,
Roped,
Piton/Ice
Screw, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
1
Protection /
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Serious, 4
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ledge Fall

1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone

1
Experienced, 5
Minor,
Roped, Sport,
Gear Broke

1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo, Non-
climbing
1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Run
Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
2 1 1
Pulled
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet
1 1 1
Experienced, 13
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
1 1
Poor
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Belay Error,
Miscommunic
ation
1
Experienced, 8
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled,
Serious, 9
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Piton/Ice
Screw, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
2
Protection /
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Party
Separated

2
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

1
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
1
Inadequate
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1
Serious, 7
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Late
in Day, Late
Start,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Experienced, 9
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
1
Alone,
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
2 1
Serious, 3
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury, Solo,
Climbing
Alone, Ice
Climbing,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
1
Avalanche,
Serious, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
Experienced, 4
Serious,
Rushed,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

Serious, 3
Roped,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Knot & Tie-in
Error, Anchor
1
Failure /
Serious, 9
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Late
in Day, Late
Start, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Rappel Error

1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position, Off-
route, Large
1 1
Group
No/Little, 12
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
1 1 1
Late in Day,
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Party
Separated,
Stranded /
1
Lost /
No/Little, 10
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Visibility, Off-
route, Late in
Day,
1
Inadequate
4

Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Rappel Error
Deadly, Head 5
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
No/Little, 10
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
2 1
Avalanche,
Deadly, 4
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse
1
No/Little, 10
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Exposure,
1 1 1 1
Visibility, Off-
Serious, 5
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Large Group
1 1
No/Little, 5
Minor,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund
2 1
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury, Top-
Rope,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
2 1
aineering, Ice
Serious, 6
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues, Ice
Climbing,
Gear Broke
1 1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum
1 2
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Off-route, No
Helmet,
1
Inadequate
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Belay
Error

1
Moderate, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Distracted,
2 1
No Backup or
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Off-route,
Knot & Tie-in
2
Error,
No/Little, 12
Serious,
Minor, Head /
Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Pendulum,
1
Rushed, Gym
Serious, 8
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
1 2
Fatigue,
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out, No
1 1
Helmet,
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

2 1
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Food/Water,
No Helmet,
1
Inadequate
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1 1
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Roped,
Pendulum,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Gear Broke
1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Party
Separated
1 1
Serious, 4
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

Deadly, 10
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
Serious, 6
Minor,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Fatigue
1 1
Deadly, 5
Serious,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche

Experienced, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Piton/Ice
1 1
Screw, Ice
Serious, 4
Roped, Poor
Position,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche

Deadly, Head 7
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall, No
1 2
Helmet
Minor, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
3
Serious, 7
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Visibility,
1
Fatigue
Serious, 4
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

2
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness
1 1
Descent, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
1
Food/Water
No/Little, 6
Minor,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness
1 1
No/Little, 15
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
1 1
aineering, Ice
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Inadequate
1 1
Protection /
Experienced, 9
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Inadequate
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Rappel Error
1
Experienced, 11
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Rushed, No
1
Helmet, Late
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
1
Natural
Deadly, Head 6
/ Brain Injury,
Top-Rope,
Unroped ,
Experienced,
Solo, No
Serious,
Helmet Trad
Roped,
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount 1
aineering,
9
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 1 1
Experienced, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather, Off-
route,
2 1
Inadequate
No/Little, 6
Moderate,
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche
1 1
Experienced, 10
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Severe
Weather,
Fatigue,
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1 1
Experienced, 12
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
1 1
Cond/Season
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1 1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
1 1
Ledge Fall,
Serious, 4
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error

1
No/Little, 10
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
1
aineering,
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Run
Out, No
1
Helmet
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Belay Error,
Miscommunic
ation
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
3 2 1
Ledge Fall,
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Severe
Weather,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
2 1
Protection /
No/Little, 5
Minor,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related

1
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Severe
1 1
Weather
Deadly, Non- 3
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Moderate, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, No
Helmet,
1 1
Inadequate
Serious, 4
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche

Experienced, 5
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo, Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

Serious, Top- 6
Rope,
Unroped ,
Solo, Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Roped,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

1 1 1
Roped, Trad 3
Climbing,
Severe
Weather
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

Experienced, 4
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather

2
Deadly, 9
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Non-Ascent
Illness,
Visibility, Off-
route, Party
Experienced,
7
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
Error 1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled
5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Piton/Ice
Screw,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1 1
Ascent
Serious, 6
Descent,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness
1
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche,
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
Moderate,
aineering,
Serious,
Piton/Ice
Alpine/Mount 1 2
Screw,
aineering,
8
Poor
Position,
Avalanche,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Inadequate
Equipment 1 1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund
1 1
Moderate, 6
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone, Ice
Climbing
1
Serious, 3
Roped, Ice
Climbing

1 1
Moderate, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Ice
Climbing,
Knot & Tie-in
1 1
Error
Serious, 4
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Experienced, 8
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
1 3
Moat /
Serious, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Gear Broke

Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Belay Error,
Miscommunic
ation
1 2
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 5
Roped,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Belay
Error
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Intoxicated

1 1
Experienced, 5
Roped, Top-
Rope, Belay
Error,
Miscommunic
ation

1 1
Serious, 14
Minor, Head /
Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
1 2
Position,
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Fatigue,
No/Little, 12
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
2 1
Alpine/Mount
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
2
Avalanche
Serious, 6
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Crowds,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged, Gear
2
Broke
Deadly, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall

Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1 1
Serious, 6
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Inadequate
Experienced, 12
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo, Poor
Position,
2
Visibility, Off-
Serious, 4
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

1 1
Deadly, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

1 1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1 1
Alpine/ 2
Mountaineeri
ng, Ascent
Illness

1
Minor, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness,
Miscommunic
ation
1
No/Little, 13
Experienced,
Serious,
Minor, Head /
Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
Descent, 1 2 1
aineering,
Roped, Trad
8
Climbing, Off-
route, Late in
Day,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 2
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

2
No/Little, 9
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Late in Day,
1 1
Anchor
Deadly, Head 5
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Rappel Error

1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

2
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche
1 1
No/Little, 7
Minor,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Exposure,
1 1 1
Inadequate
No/Little, 7
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
1 1
Crevasse /
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Fatigue,
Rappel Error
1
Minor, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Rappel Error
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
2
Weather
Deadly, 7
Serious, Non-
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Poor
Position,
1
Avalanche
Roped, 5
Piton/Ice
Screw, Ice
Climbing,
Rushed, Late
in Day

1
Experienced, 9
Deadly,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Run Out,
Ledge Fall,
3
Gear Broke,
Serious, 4
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Deadly, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

2
Deadly, 3
Roped,
Anchor
Failure / Error

No/Little,
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
10
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Late in Day,
Fatigue,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
Error 3 1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Inadequate
2 1
Protection /
No/Little, 10
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Off-
route,
Rushed, Late
in Day, Late
1 1
Start,
Deadly, 7
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Helmet,
Knot & Tie-in
Error,
Lowering
Error
1
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
No Helmet

1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet, Gym
Climber

1 1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall

1 1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Lowering
Error

1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
3 1
Pulled,
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
1
Rappel Error
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ledge Fall,
Object
1
Dropped/Disl
Deadly, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues

1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1 1
Glissading
Deadly, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Moderate, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Rushed

1 1
Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche
1
Serious, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche,
Visibility, No
Helmet
Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall
2 1
No/Little, 8
Experienced,
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Large Group,
2 1
Object
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
Large Group
1
Serious, 8
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
Serious,
aineering,
Descent,
Cornice /
Alpine/Mount
Snow Bridge
aineering,
Collapse,
Poor 1
Crevasse /
Cond/Season
8
al Risk,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
Moderate, 7
Experienced,
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet, Knot
& Tie-in Error
1 1
Deadly, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Severe
Weather
1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Visibility
2 1 1
Serious, 9
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
2 2
Glissading,
Experienced, 8
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Visibility,
Fatigue,
Stranded /
1
Lost /
Deadly, 4
Descent,
Roped,
Rappel Error

1
Deadly, 7
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Anchor
1
Failure /
Descent, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Equipment

1
Serious, 9
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Unroped ,
Solo, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather

2
Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
1 1
Handhold/Fo
Serious, 7
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Fatigue
Deadly, 7
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Anchor
1
Failure /
Serious, 4
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

2
Serious, 6
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Visibility, Off-
route

Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness, Late
in Day, Late
Start, Large
1 1
Group
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

Experienced, 7
Minor, Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather,
Stranded /
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1
No/Little, 11
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1 1
Exposure,
Serious, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Inadequate
Minor, 8
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Poor
Position,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing
Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Inadequate
1
Protection /
Serious, 5
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Large Group,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Miscommunic
Serious, 4
Descent, Ice
Climbing,
Distracted

Experienced, 6
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo, Ice
Climbing,
Distracted

Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1
Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Solo, Non-
climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
Roped, Sport, 4
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Belay
Error

1
Deadly, 6
Unroped ,
Solo, No
Helmet,
Large Group,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped , No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
5

No/Little,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Top-
Rope 1 1 1
Minor, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

Serious, 5
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Large Group

Serious, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Fatigue

1
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche
1
Serious, Ice 4
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall
1
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Pendulum,
Solo, Object
Dropped/Disl
1
odged
Serious, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Glissading
1
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Large Group,
Handhold/Fo
2
othold Broke,
Serious, 6
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
Equipment
1
Alpine/ 2
Mountaineeri
ng, Ascent
Illness

1
Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

1
Serious, 8
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Crampon
Issues, Ice
Climbing,
Rushed,
Lowering
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Late in Day,
1
Inadequate
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Anchor
Deadly, 10
Descent,
Roped, Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Severe
Serious, 5
Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall,
Stranded /
Lost /
Serious,
Overdue
Head / Brain
5
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
Natural
Rockfall 2
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1
Descent, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Late in Day,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness
1
No/Little, 4
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche

2 1
No/Little, 10
Minor,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
1 1
aineering,
Experienced, 4
Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather

1
Experienced, 10
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
1 1
Exposure,
Deadly, 5
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Severe
1
Weather
No/Little, 12
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
1 1
aineering, Ice
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Equipment
1 1 1
Serious, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Equipment
1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Visibility,
Inadequate
2
Equipment
Moderate, 5
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 4
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche
Unknown, 4
Serious, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 5
Roped, Gym /
Artificial, Gym
Climber,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Experienced, 10
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Off-route, No
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
2 1 1
Inadequate
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Deadly, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route

1
4

Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering 1
Serious, 6
Roped, Sport,
Severe
Weather,
Gym Climber,
Inadequate
Equipment
2 1
Moderate, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Poor
Position,
Gym Climber,
1 1
Inadequate
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Top-
Rope, No
Helmet,
Belay Error
1 1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Natural
Rockfall, Late
2
in Day
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Party
5
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo, Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke 1
Minor, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Crowds,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Miscommunic
ation
No/Little, 9
Experienced,
Serious,
Minor,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Avalanche,
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Fatigue

1 1
No/Little, 6
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Fatigue

1
No/Little, 6
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Belay Error
2 1
Deadly, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

1 2
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Food/Water,
Fatigue
1
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Knot & Tie-in
Error,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled,
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Severe
Weather,
Alpine/ 5
Mountaineeri
ng, Severe
Weather, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather, Off-
1
route
Serious, Non- 7
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Exposure,
Inadequate
Equipment,
3
Stranded /
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled, Belay
Error
1
Experienced, 4
Minor, Head /
Brain Injury,
Natural
Rockfall

Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Rappel Error

1 1
Experienced, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Belay Error
1 1
No/Little, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue

1
No/Little, 8
Experienced,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Knot & Tie-in
1
Error, Anchor
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

1
Serious, 3
Descent,
Roped

1
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled, Belay
Serious, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1
Serious, 5
Unroped ,
Solo, Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1
Serious, 9
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Rushed, Late
Start,
Fatigue, No
2
Backup or
Deadly, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Gear Broke
1
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Large Group,
Anchor
Failure / Error
Moderate, 6
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche,
Severe
1 1 1 1
Weather
Deadly, 9
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo, Non-
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
1
Poor
No/Little, 5
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Anchor
Failure / Error

1 1
Deadly, 12
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
1
Visibility,
Serious, 11
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Fatigue

2 1 2
Serious, 9
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Serious, 5
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
Crevasse /
1
Moat /
Deadly, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
1
Crevasse /
Serious, 9
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
1
Crevasse /
Moderate, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
2 1
Run Out,
Serious, 4
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
2
Deadly, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
1
Serious, 9
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone, Run
Out, No
Helmet,
1
Inadequate
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, No
Helmet,
Belay Error
1 1
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Solo,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
1
Inadequate
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Distracted,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Inadequate
Protection /
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Miscommunic
ation

Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
2
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Experienced, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone, No
Helmet, Gym
1
Climber,
No/Little, 6
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error
1 1
Moderate, 9
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
1 1
Alpine/Mount
Serious, 7
Descent,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Party
Separated,
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Fatigue

1
No/Little, 10
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo, Non-
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
1
Cornice /
Deadly, 4
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche

1
Serious, 4
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall
1
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Natural
Rockfall

Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather,
Natural
Rockfall
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1 1
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Object
Alpine/ 4
Mountaineeri
ng, Non-
Ascent
Illness,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
Equipment
1 1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness
1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

Experienced, 8
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Serious, 3
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

Solo, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Serious,
Solo, Non-
Unroped ,
climbing, Off-
Solo,
route, Large
Alpine/Mount
Group,
aineering, 2 1
Stranded /
Exposure,
9
Severe
Weather,
Late in Day,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
Deadly,
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Unroped ,
Minor,
Solo,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
Roped,
aineering, Ice
Alpine/Mount
Climbing,
aineering,
Poor
Position,
11
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Off-route,
Large Group,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1 2 1 6 1 1
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Anchor
Failure /
1
Error, Belay
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Gym Climber,
Inadequate
Protection /
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1 1
Experienced, 7
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Serious, 7
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Piton/Ice
Screw, Gear
Broke,
Inadequate
1
Protection /
No/Little, 7
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Gear Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Experienced, 6
Roped, Aid &
Big Wall,
Pendulum,
Ledge Fall,
Gear Broke
Experienced, 9
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
No Helmet,
Knot & Tie-in
1 1
Error, Rappel
Experienced, 9
Deadly,
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury, Top-
Rope,
Unroped ,
Solo

4
No/Little, 6
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Rappel Error
1
Serious, 4
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche

1
Experienced, 8
Deadly,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
Visibility,
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather,
Natural
Rockfall, Late
Deadly, 5
Minor,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather
1 1 1
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
2
Error
Unroped , 4
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1 1
Serious, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
Avalanche
1 1
Deadly, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Avalanche,
Large Group
Deadly, 6
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Avalanche,
Large Group

Deadly, 7
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone, Non-
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Avalanche
Serious, 6
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche,
Severe
Weather
Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
1
Moat /
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure

Serious, 5
Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Fatigue

2
Minor, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

1
Experienced, 10
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
1 1
al Risk,
Serious, 4
Roped, Top-
Rope, Ice
Climbing

No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 5
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Large Group,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, Top- 5
Rope,
Unroped ,
Solo, Ice
Climbing

1
Serious, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1
Deadly, Head 5
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo

1
Serious 1

1
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1 1 1
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone

1
Deadly, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
1
Deadly, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Roped, Trad 4
Climbing, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Experienced, 7
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Anchor
Failure /
Error, Belay
Error
1
Experienced, 8
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
1 1
Protection /
No/Little, 8
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo, Non-
climbing,
Gym Climber,
Inadequate
3 1
Equipment
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Experienced,
Serious, 1
Roped, Trad
7
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Late in Day,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Rappel Error
1
Serious, 7
Minor,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Rushed,
Inadequate
Protection /
Serious, 5
Roped, Solo,
Ice Climbing,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche
Serious,
6
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged, Belay
Error 1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
1 1
Rockfall
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Unknown, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Late Start,
Object
Dropped/Disl
1 1
odged
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Exposure

1
Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
Minor, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
Experienced, 4
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Belay
1
Error
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Party
1 2 1
Separated
No/Little, 3
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1 1 1
Serious, 8
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Off-
route, Late in
Day, Late
Start,
Stranded /
1
Lost /
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
Error
Serious, 2
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche

1
No/Little, 8
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
2 1
Severe
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing
2
No/Little, 6
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
1 1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
2
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Anchor
Failure /
Error,
Miscommunic
1 2
ation
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Deadly, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1 1
Deadly, 3
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Party
Separated
1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

2
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
2 2
Error
Serious, 5
Descent,
Unroped ,
Severe
Weather,
Large Group

1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
Error
1
Experienced, 11
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Late in Day,
Late Start,
Fatigue,
Deadly, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
1
Deadly, 8
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
Helmet,
Object
Dropped/Disl
2
odged, No
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Large
Group, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error
1 1
Serious, 12
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Poor
Position,
Exposure,
Object
Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall

Experienced, 8
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Aid & Big
Wall, Solo,
Severe
Weather,
Natural
1
Rockfall
Serious, 3
Unroped ,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
Alpine/ 2
Mountaineeri
ng, Ascent
Illness

2
No/Little, 10
Deadly,
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
1 1
Position,
Deadly, 5
Descent,
Roped, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Serious,
Rappel Error
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure, 1
Visibility,
8
Severe
Weather, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 2 3
No/Little, 12
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
1 1 1
Weather, Off-
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
Experienced, 6
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Natural
Rockfall,
Stranded /
Lost /
Serious, 5
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Avalanche

Experienced, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Avalanche
Serious, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Avalanche,
Severe
Weather

Deadly, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Avalanche,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness,
Inadequate
Equipment
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Crevasse /
1
Moat /
Minor, 7
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Serious, 3
Roped, Ice
Climbing

Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Exposure

Serious, 6
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Anchor
Serious, Top- 5
Rope,
Unroped ,
Solo, Ice
Climbing
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Crampon
Issues, Ice
Climbing
2
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone
1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Solo,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1
Serious, 5
Unroped ,
Solo, Ice
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

No/Little, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Belay Error

1 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

No/Little, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Large Group,
1
Inadequate
Deadly, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Inadequate
Equipment
1
No/Little, 10
Deadly,
Minor, Head /
Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Wildlife,
1 1
Rushed, No
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Belay Error
2
Experienced, 9
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Top-Rope,
Distracted,
No Backup or
1 1
End Knot,
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out, No
Helmet,
1 1 1
Inadequate
Experienced, 9
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Late in Day,
Fatigue,
2
Anchor
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
1
Weather
No/Little, 6
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Party
Separated,
Inadequate
1
Equipment
Deadly, 4
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall

2 2
Serious, 3
Natural
Rockfall,
Ledge Fall

Deadly, Head 3
/ Brain Injury,
Natural
Rockfall

1
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk, Late
Start

Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche

No/Little, 4
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

1
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Miscommunic
ation
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
6
Severe
Weather,
Party
Separated,
Large Group,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Helmet,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Serious, 10
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Solo,
Climbing
Alone, No
Helmet, No
1
Backup or
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Rappel Error

Deadly, Head 5
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo, Ice
Climbing

1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo, Non-
climbing, Off-
route,
Stranded /
Lost /
1
Overdue
Minor, 6
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather,
Party
Separated,
Large Group,
Stranded /
Deadly, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Late Start
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche
2
Serious, 8
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Piton/Ice
Screw, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
1 1
Cond/Season
Serious, 7
Roped,
Pendulum,
Ice Climbing,
Rushed,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled, Belay
2
Error
Roped, Ice 4
Climbing,
Severe
Weather,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone, No
1 1
Helmet
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Stranded /
Serious, 8
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Exposure,
Visibility, Late
in Day,
Handhold/Fo
2
othold Broke
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
No Backup or
End Knot
2 1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Deadly, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
2
Stranded /
Deadly, Head 8
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crowds,
Large Group,
1
Inadequate
Deadly, Head 6
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Gear Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
6
No/Little,
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Crowds,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1 1 1
Experienced, 15
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
2
aineering,
Serious, 5
Unroped ,
Bouldering,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

3
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

2
No/Little, 7
Deadly, Top-
Rope,
Unroped ,
Solo, Severe
Weather,
Anchor
Failure / Error
1 1
No/Little, 8
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Off-
route, Late in
Day
1 1 1
Serious, 5
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled, Belay
Error
2
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues, Ski-
related ,
Inadequate
1 2 1
Equipment
Serious, 9
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
1
Position,
Serious, 9
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Glissading,
1 1
Poor
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues

1
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1 1
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Stranded /
Lost /
1 1
Overdue
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo

1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Natural
Rockfall,
Ledge Fall
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Severe
Weather

Serious, 4
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues

1
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Glissading,
1
Inadequate
Serious, 5
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading

1
Deadly, Head 7
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error
1 1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, No
Helmet, No
Backup or
1
End Knot,
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing

1
4

Moderate,
Experienced,
Experienced,
Deadly,
Deadly, Head
Roped, Trad
/ Brain Injury,
Climbing, Aid
Alpine/Mount
& Big Wall,
aineering 2
Solo,
11
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Inadequate
Food/Water,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 2 2 3 1
No/Little, 6
Minor,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
2 1
Miscommunic
No/Little, 10
Deadly, Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
No/Little,
Exposure,
Roped, Trad
Visibility,
Climbing, 1 1
Severe
Exposure,
9
Visibility, Late
in Day, Late
Start,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 2 1
No/Little, 5
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
2 1
Serious, 8
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
1 1
Equipment,
Serious, 4
Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

2
Experienced, 8
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
1
Avalanche,
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche

1 1
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
2
Severe
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure

1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
3 1
Large Group
Minor, 7
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Stranded /
Lost /
1
Overdue,
Serious, 4
Roped,
Crampon
Issues, Ice
Climbing
Experienced, 4
Minor,
Roped, Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk

Serious, 3
Roped, Ice
Climbing

1
Serious, 4
Descent,
Unroped , Ice
Climbing

1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Off-route

1 1 1
Serious, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
Experienced, 8
Deadly,
Minor, Head /
Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1 1
Belay Error
Deadly, Top- 7
Rope,
Unroped ,
Solo, Off-
route, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Equipment
1
Experienced, 10
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Solo, Off-
route, No
Helmet,
Ledge Fall,
1
Handhold/Fo
Deadly, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Belay Error,
1
Miscommunic
No/Little, 9
Experienced,
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled,
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Solo,
Gear Broke,
Rappel Error

1 1
Serious, 8
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone, No
Helmet,
Object
1
Dropped/Disl
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1 1
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Run
Out, No
1 1
Helmet,
Deadly, 6
Descent,
Roped,
Deadly, Trad
Head
Climbing, No
/ Brain Injury,
Helmet,
Descent,
Rappel Error
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount 1
aineering,
11
Exposure,
Late in Day,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
Error
1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading
1
No/Little, 5
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Natural
Rockfall

1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Glissading
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Fatigue

1
Experienced, 4
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Inadequate
1
Equipment
Deadly, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
Error
1 1
Deadly, 8
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Knot & Tie-in
Error,
Inadequate
Protection /
2
Pulled,
Deadly, 7
Descent,
Roped,
Pendulum,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Belay Error,
Rappel Error
3 1 1
No/Little, 11
Deadly,
No/Little,
Unroped ,
Descent,
Solo, Trad
Roped,
Climbing
Climbing,
Alone, Non-
Alpine/Mount
climbing,
aineering,
Alpine/Mount
Exposure, 1
aineering,
Visibility,
11
Severe
Weather, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 1 1 1 1
Roped, Trad 8
Climbing,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Late Start,
Inadequate
2
Equipment,
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue

1
Minor, 7
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Anchor
Failure /
Error,
1 1
Stranded /
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
3 1 1
Position,
Serious, 8
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Exposure,
Fatigue,
No/Little, 8
Deadly,
Roped, Sport,
Late in Day,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
1 1
Anchor
Moderate, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Rushed, Late
Start
1
Deadly, 4
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo

Experienced,
Deadly, 1
Descent,
10
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Solo, Gym
Climber, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error 1
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
1 1
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche

1
Roped, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged, Belay
Error
1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall

Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crowds,
Object
Dropped/Disl
1
odged
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

1
No/Little, 10
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Exposure,
Visibility, Off-
1 1 1
route,
Serious, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Glissading

Moderate, 15
Experienced,
Deadly,
Serious,
Minor, Head /
Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
2 2 1 1 1
Alpine/Mount
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Natural
2
Rockfall
No/Little, 8
Experienced,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
1 2 1 1
aineering,
Deadly, 12
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
Exposure,
1 1
Visibility,
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Non-climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather, Off-
1
route,
Deadly, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
1
Crevasse /
No/Little, 12
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
1 1
Issues, Ice
Deadly, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone

1
Deadly, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone

1
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Fatigue

1
Roped, Trad 2
Climbing

1
Experienced, 4
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo, Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
Deadly, 3
Unroped ,
Solo

1
Deadly, 2
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Deadly, 7
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
1
Error
No/Little, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather
2 1
No/Little, 9
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather, Off-
route, Party
2 1
Separated,
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Off-
route, Belay
Error
1 1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Poor
Position, Off-
route
1 1
Moderate, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 2 1
Pulled
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
2 1
Pulled
Serious, 5
Roped, Sport,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error
2
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Gear Broke,
Rappel Error
1
Serious, 3
Unroped ,
Solo

1
Experienced, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
4 3
Large Group
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
1
Alone,
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1 1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1 2
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Inadequate
Equipment
1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related

1
7
Experienced,
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
No Helmet 1
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Minor,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position, Off-
1 1
route, Party
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Inadequate
Equipment

Experienced, 6
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Large Group,
Inadequate
Equipment
1 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness, Party
Separated
1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

Experienced, 1
Deadly,
6
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 2
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
Error
1
Deadly, 4
Descent,
Roped,
Rappel Error

1
Experienced, 8
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Distracted,
Knot & Tie-in
Error, Anchor
Failure /
2
Error, Rappel
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Experienced,
Roped,
Deadly, Trad
Climbing,
Descent, No
Helmet, No
Alpine/Mount 1
Backup or
aineering,
9
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Late in Day,
Late Start,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 3
Moderate, 8
Minor,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
2 1
Equipment,
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness, Large
Group
1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

1
Deadly, 8
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Visibility,
Inadequate
2
Protection /
Unknown, 7
Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche,
Visibility,
Inadequate
Serious, 5
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
Crevasse /
1
Moat /
4

Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues, Party
Separated
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
1
Alpine/Mount
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Unroped , Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Deadly, 7
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
Backup or
End Knot,
1 1
Rappel Error
Serious, 9
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Inadequate
Equipment

Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Moderate, 11
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Visibility, Off-
1 1
route,
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Large
Group, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
1 1
Error
Serious, 3
Pendulum,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
5
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Roped, Trad 5
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled, Belay
Error
Experienced, 11
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Late
in Day, Large
Group, No
Backup or
Experienced, 10
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
1 1 1
Distracted,
Descent, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
Error
1
Experienced, 12
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
1 1
Rushed, Late
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error

1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues
1 1
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather, Off-
Serious, 4
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
Helmet

1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Descent, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Inadequate
Equipment

Descent, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues
Serious, 7
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk, No
1
Helmet, Party
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Handhold/Fo
Alpine/ 3
Mountaineeri
ng, Poor
Position,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
3
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
1
Minor, Non- 5
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Fatigue
1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1 1
Serious, 2
Alpine/Mount
aineering

Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness
1
Alpine/ 3
Mountaineeri
ng, Visibility,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
No/Little, 8
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
1 1
Lost /
Descent, 11
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Rushed, Late
1 1 2
Start,
Moderate, 13
Experienced,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
2 1
Alpine/Mount
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche

2
Serious,
4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund 1
Deadly, Head 7
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Exposure
1 1
Roped, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Fatigue

1
5

Serious,
Minor,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Equipment
1
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
1
Protection /
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
2 1
Pulled
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Experienced, 4
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped

1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
No/Little, 3
Serious,
Roped

1 1
No/Little, 11
Experienced,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Crowds,
Large Group,
1 1 1
Knot & Tie-in
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Anchor
Failure / Error
1 1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Object
Dropped/Disl
1 1
odged
Roped, Trad 4
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

1
Experienced, 4
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

1 1
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Crampon
Experienced, 9
Minor,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Late in Day,
Experienced, 8
Minor,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche,
Experienced, 8
Minor,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
1 1
Position,
Experienced, 8
Deadly, Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
1
Avalanche,
Experienced, 4
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche

1 1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure

1
Serious, 11
Minor,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Bergschrund,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Serious, 4
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Gear Broke

Experienced, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum
2
Deadly, 5
Descent,
Roped, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error

1
Deadly, 10
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Late in Day,
Gear Broke,
Inadequate
Equipment,
2
Inadequate
Serious, 3
Unroped ,
Solo

1
Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Roped, Trad 4
Climbing,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Object
Dropped/Disl
1
odged,
No/Little, 10
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Late
in Day, Ledge
1 1 1
Fall,
No/Little, 10
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Visibility, Late
1 1
in Day,
 3

Serious,
Roped, Sport
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport

Experienced, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
2
Pulled
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1
Serious, 5
Roped, Sport,
Poor
Position,
Fatigue

1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading

Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Equipment

1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
1 1
aineering,
Serious, 4
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Experienced, 6
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone
1
Moderate, 11
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Visibility, Off-
route, Run
Out, Late in
1 1 1
Day, Late
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Belay Error

1 1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Miscommunic
ation
1 1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

1 1
Experienced, 8
Deadly,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
1 1
Severe
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Fatigue

1 1 1
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Large Group

1
Serious, 4
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
No/Little, 11
Minor, Head /
Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Visibility, Off-
2 1
route, Late in
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Inadequate
Equipment
1 1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Late Start,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Inadequate
1 1 1
Protection /
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Stranded /
2 2 1
Lost /
No/Little, 6
Descent,
Roped, Aid &
Big Wall,
Wildlife,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1 1
No/Little, 8
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Inadequate
Equipment,
1 2 1
Stranded /
Deadly, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness,
Fatigue

No/Little, 7
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness, Large
1 1
Group
Serious, 3
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Exposure

Minor, 6
Roped, Sport,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
Helmet,
Belay Error

1
Experienced, 8
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
1 1
Weather,
Deadly, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Gear Broke
1
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Severe
No/Little, 4
Roped, Sport,
Belay Error

1 1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Unknown, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum

1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
1
Moderate, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Fatigue
1 1
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
1
Alpine/Mount
6
Minor, Non-
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Visibility,
Party
Separated
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
1 1
Helmet,
Minor, 7
Descent,
Roped,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Experienced, 11
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Non-climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Minor, 2
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche
1
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Ski-related ,
No/Little, 8
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1 1
Inadequate
Minor, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Late
in Day,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
No/Little, 7
Minor,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Run Out,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled
Serious, 3
Solo, Ice
Climbing

Deadly, Head 6
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet

1 1
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Distracted,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
1 1
Error
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Rushed, Run
Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
2
Experienced, 9
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Crowds, No
Helmet,
2
Inadequate
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Experienced, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Pendulum,
1 1
Inadequate
Experienced, 4
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1
No/Little, 7
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route
1
Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Fatigue,
Large Group

Serious, 4
Roped, Sport,
Belay Error
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Lowering
Error,
Miscommunic
ation

Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
No/Little, 10
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out, No
Helmet, Late
2 1 1
in Day, Ledge
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Piton/Ice
Screw, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
1
Lowering
Serious, 4
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo

No/Little,
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Severe
Weather 1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
2 1
Moat /
Serious, 8
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
1
Rushed,
Experienced, 3
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
No/Little, 4
Serious, Non-
climbing, Late
in Day

1
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Fatigue

1
3

Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Food/Water 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

3
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, No
Helmet,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
1
Rappel Error
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Knot & Tie-in
Error, Rappel
Error

1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Ice
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error

Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

Serious, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Crowds,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
Serious, 5
Unroped ,
Solo, Non-
climbing,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue

No/Little, 9
Minor,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Exposure,
Late in Day,
Late Start,
Inadequate
1 2 1
Equipment,
 4
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
Serious, 7
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Equipment,
1
Stranded /
No/Little, 7
Experienced,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
Crevasse /
1
Moat /
Deadly, 8
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche,
1
Crowds,
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche
1 1
Experienced, 8
Deadly,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Avalanche,
Cornice /
2
Snow Bridge
Deadly, 6
Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Bergschrund,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
2
Icefall / Serac
Serious, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
1
Berschrund
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing

No/Little, 4
Serious,
Roped, Ice
Climbing

2 1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Belay Error,
Miscommunic
ation

1
Experienced, 10
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Rushed,
Distracted,
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Solo,
Climbing
1
Alone, Object
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Solo, Large
Group

1
No/Little, 8
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Exposure,
Off-route,
Gym Climber,
Inadequate
2 1
Equipment
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Lowering
Error
1
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
1
Error
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Belay Error

2 1
Serious, 8
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Run
Out, Ledge
Fall, Fatigue,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 2
Pulled
Minor, Head / 7
Brain Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather,
Fatigue,
1 1
Inadequate
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Run Out, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Inadequate
Protection /
No/Little, 8
Moderate,
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Top-Rope,
Gym Climber,
Inadequate
2 1 1
Protection /
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
Error
1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Deadly, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet, Gear
Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Minor, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
Helmet

Serious, 3
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

Experienced, 5
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Descent, 5
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues
1
Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure
1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues
1 1
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled,
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
1
Icefall / Serac
Deadly, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk, Icefall
/ Serac / Ice
Avalanche
1
Serious, 3
Roped,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
1
Inadequate
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1 1 1 1
Object
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
Natural
Rockfall
1
 5

Experienced,
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Rappel Error 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

2
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Ledge
Fall

1
Roped, Trad 4
Climbing,
Crowds,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

No/Little, 3
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route, No
Helmet
1 1
Minor, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Fatigue,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
2
Moderate, 7
Deadly,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Cond/Season
2 1
al Risk,
Experienced, 6
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Avalanche
1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche
Serious, 3
Wildlife,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue

Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing
1 1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
1 1
othold Broke
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Lowering
Error

Serious, 3
Roped, Ice
Climbing

1
Deadly, 7
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
1 1
Protection /
Deadly, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk
1
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Top-Rope,
Gym Climber,
Distracted,
No Backup or
2 1
End Knot,
No/Little, 10
Experienced,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
1 2 1 1
Distracted,
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum

1 1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum

2
Serious, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
1
Protection /
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Exposure,
1
Late in Day,
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1 2
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo

1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Knot
& Tie-in
Error, Gear
Broke,
Anchor
Failure / Error
1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Serious, 4
Roped, Sport,
No Helmet

1 1
Serious, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1
Roped, Trad 3
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Experienced, 4
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

2
Deadly, 7
Serious,
Minor, Head /
Brain Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall,
1 2
Large Group
Deadly, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Gear Broke

1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Rushed, Knot
& Tie-in Error
1 2 1
Serious, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

2
Serious, 3
Roped, Sport

Deadly, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Crevasse /
1
Moat /
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Inadequate
1
Protection /
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
No/Little, 7
Experienced,
Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Fatigue,
1 1
Large Group
Roped, Top- 3
Rope, Non-
Ascent Illness

Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Inadequate
No/Little, 5
Descent,
Roped, No
Helmet,
Rappel Error

1 1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error

1
Experienced, 8
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Distracted,
Knot & Tie-in
Error, Rappel
1 1
Error
Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury, Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Object
Dropped/Disl
2 1
odged,
Experienced, 7
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
2
Miscommunic
No/Little, 7
Minor,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Gym Climber,
Stranded /
1 1 1
Lost /
No/Little, 7
Minor,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Inadequate
Equipment,
1 1
Stranded /
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
1
Rappel Error
Experienced, 11
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
1
Party
Deadly, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
1 1 1
Poor
Experienced, 6
Deadly, Non-
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Avalanche
1 2
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Top-
Rope, No
Helmet, Knot
& Tie-in Error
1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Belay Error
1 1 1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather
1 1
Unroped , 5
Solo, Fatigue,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1
No/Little, 12
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
2 1
Crevasse /
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing, Off-
1
route, Knot &
No/Little, 6
Experienced,
Serious,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
2 1 1
Minor, 7
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Piton/Ice
Screw,
Crampon
Issues, Ice
Climbing,
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1 1
Exposure,
Serious, 3
Roped, Sport

1 1
Serious, 3
Roped, Sport

1
Deadly, 3
Roped, Sport

1
Descent, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Lowering
Error

1
Roped, Sport, 5
Crowds,
Distracted,
Belay Error

Deadly, Head 4
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Sport

No/Little, 3
Roped, Sport

1
Unroped 1

1
Minor, Head / 6
Brain Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Crowds, No
Helmet

Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Run
Out

Minor, Head / 5
Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out

No/Little, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Anchor
Failure / Error

1 1 1
6
No/Little,
Experienced,
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 2 1
No/Little, 6
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Non-
climbing,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Rappel Error
1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
Error
2
6

Experienced,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Gear Broke
4
Experienced,
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse 1 1
No/Little, 10
Experienced,
Deadly,
Serious,
Minor, Head /
Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
2 1 1
Alpine/Mount
Descent, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues

No/Little, 3
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

2 1
Serious, 4
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Deadly, 5
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk
1
5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Poor
Position,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness, Non-
Ascent Illness

1
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
1
Cond/Season
Experienced, 4
Deadly, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk

2
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Lowering
Error

1
No/Little, 6
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo, Large
Group,
Inadequate
Equipment
1 1
Serious, 7
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
1
Object
Minor, 10
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Late in Day,
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Rappel Error

No/Little, 11
Experienced,
Serious,
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Late
1 1 1
in Day,
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Inadequate
1
Equipment,
No/Little, 11
Deadly,
Descent,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
2 1
Off-route,
No/Little, 14
Moderate,
Experienced,
Deadly,
Serious,
Minor, Head /
Brain Injury,
Descent,
1 1 2 1 2 4 1 1
Roped, Trad
Serious, 2
Descent

1
Serious, 8
Descent,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
1 1 1
Illness, Party
Deadly, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1 1
Roped, Top- 7
Rope,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Avalanche,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Belay
Minor, 3
Roped,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

Serious, 4
Roped, Top-
Rope, Knot &
Tie-in Error

1
Moderate, 8
Experienced,
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Lowering
Error,
Miscommunic
1 1
ation
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Miscommunic
ation

2
7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Distracted,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error 1
Moderate, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Rushed,
1 1 1
Lowering
Experienced, 6
Roped, Sport,
Late in Day,
Gym Climber,
Belay Error

Serious, 6
Descent,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility
1
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Fatigue, No
1
Backup or
Roped, Sport, 4
Pendulum,
Off-route

1
Serious,
7
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Rushed,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 2
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

2 1
Serious, 7
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Crowds,
Ledge Fall,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Miscommunic
ation
 6
No/Little,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Anchor
Failure / Error 1 1
Serious, 6
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Run Out,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1
No/Little, 11
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
1 2 1
Alpine/Mount
6

No/Little,
Roped, Sport,
Distracted,
Belay Error,
Miscommunic
ation 1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled
4

Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet, Late
in Day,
Inadequate
1
Protection /
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet, No
2 1
Backup or
Serious, 3
Natural
Rockfall, Late
in Day

1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Top-
Rope, No
Helmet, Knot
& Tie-in Error
No/Little,
Experienced,
8
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Fatigue 1 1 2 1
Experienced, 8
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1 3
Visibility
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Descent,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Severe
Deadly, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Fatigue
3 1
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Deadly, 7
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
1 1 1
Gear Broke
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
2
othold Broke,
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche
1 2
Experienced, 4
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Unroped , 6
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
1
Inadequate
Minor, 8
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Late
in Day,
Inadequate
Equipment,
2
Stranded /
No/Little, 4
Roped,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Miscommunic
ation
1
Minor, 7
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Equipment,
1
Stranded /
No/Little, 5
Minor,
Descent,
Visibility,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1 1 1
No/Little, 11
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Inadequate
Food/Water,
2 1
Late in Day,
No/Little, 4
Minor,
Descent,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue

2 1
Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Avalanche
1
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
1 1
Position,
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche,
No/Little,
Stranded
Serious, /
Lost
Head/ / Brain
7
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
No/Little,
Illness,
Deadly,
Exposure, Head
/Severe
Brain Injury,
Unroped
Weather , 3 1
Solo,
9
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Off-route,
Party
Separated 1 1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall

1 1
No/Little, 6
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo, Non-
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
1 1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
No Helmet
1 1
Minor, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot

2
Experienced, 4
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo

1
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Crowds, No
Helmet,
Large Group,
Miscommunic
Deadly, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error
1
Deadly, 6
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Distracted,
Knot & Tie-in
Error, Anchor
No/Little,
Failure / Error
Unroped ,
Solo, 1
Climbing
8
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Late Start,
Gym Climber,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 1 1
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet, No
Backup or
1
End Knot,
Deadly, Head 7
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Serious, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
No Helmet

1
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
No Helmet

1
No/Little, 7
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Lowering
Error,
Miscommunic
1
ation
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Late in Day,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled
Roped, Off- 2
route

Serious, 4
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Miscommunic
ation

No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Solo,
Climbing
1
Alone,
Moderate, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Inadequate
1 1
Protection /
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Deadly, 5
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Rappel Error

2
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Ledge
Fall

1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Icefall / Serac
1
/ Ice
Serious, 9
Descent,
Trad
Climbing,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
1
Exposure,
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Non-climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related
1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Glissading
Moderate, 5
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues
1 1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues, Poor
Cond/Season
1
al Risk
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Crowds,
1
Object
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Intoxicated

1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo, Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
1 1
Crevasse /
Experienced, 11
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
1 1
Crevasse /
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
2 1
Glissading,
Serious, 7
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Late in Day,
Gym Climber,
Gear Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
1
Handhold/Fo
7
Experienced,
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error 1
Roped, Top- 4
Rope, Non-
climbing,
Wildlife

1
Minor, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue

No/Little, 5
Descent,
Roped,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Rappel Error
1 1
No/Little, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche
1 1 1
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Fatigue

1
Serious, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche,
Severe
Weather
Unknown, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
1 1 1
Avalanche,
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness,
Fatigue

1
Experienced, 5
Minor, Non-
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Miscommunic
ation

Deadly, 3
Roped, Ice
Climbing

1
No/Little, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1
Unroped , 2
Poor Position
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
1 1
Lowering
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Rappel Error

1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error
1
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
1 1
Rappel Error
Serious, 8
Minor, Head /
Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Anchor
Failure /
1
Error, Rappel
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Belay Error
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1
Serious, 3
Roped, Belay
Error

1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
1 1
Belay Error
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled, Belay
1
Error
Serious, 4
Roped, Sport,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Inadequate
Protection /
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Severe
Weather,
Lowering
1 1
Error
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1
No/Little, 6
Deadly,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Off-
route, Large
Group

1 1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Off-route

1 1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Gym Climber,
Anchor
Failure /
2 1
Error, Rappel
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo, Late in
Day,
Miscommunic
ation
1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error

1 1
Deadly, Head 7
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Stranded /
1
Lost /
No/Little, 5
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund
1 1
Deadly, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
1
Glissading,
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
1
Avalanche,
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
1 1
Issues,
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues

Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Party
Separated

1
No/Little,
6
Serious,
Unroped ,
Bouldering,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke 1 1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Rappel Error

1
No/Little, 7
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Off-
route,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
2 1
Rappel Error
Serious, 6
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Visibility,
Fatigue
2
Minor, 8
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Solo, Late in
Day,
Distracted,
Stranded /
1
Lost /
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Off-
route,
Stranded /
Lost /
1 1
Overdue
Moderate, 10
Experienced,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
1 1 1
Natural
Serious, 9
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche,
1 4
Crevasse /
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Exposure
1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Late in Day

1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
1
Stranded /
No/Little, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
2 1
Deadly, 3
Unroped ,
Ledge Fall

1
5

No/Little,
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1 1
5

Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Fatigue,
Belay Error 1
4

Deadly,
Roped, Sport,
Non-Ascent
Illness 1 1
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
1
aineering
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Roped, Solo,
Climbing
Alone

1
5

Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Unroped ,
Solo, Belay
Error
1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Solo, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Belay Error
1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Deadly, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Moderate, 7
Experienced,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
2 1
Protection /
Deadly, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

1
4

Serious,
Roped,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Belay
Error 1
Minor, 5
Roped, Sport,
Off-route,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
 5
No/Little,
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1 1
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled
Experienced, 6
Minor,
Descent,
Roped,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Rappel Error
1
6
Experienced,
Serious,
Roped, Late
in Day,
Distracted,
Knot & Tie-in
Error 1
No/Little, 9
Moderate,
Roped, Sport,
Severe
Weather,
Gym Climber,
Fatigue,
Large Group,
1 1 1
Miscommunic
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall,
Large Group
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
4

Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet 1
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Poor
Position, Off-
route

Experienced, 3
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Deadly, 5
Descent,
Roped, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error

2 2
No/Little, 10
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Off-route,
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related

1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Serious, 12
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Serious, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Serious,
Equipment
Head / Brain
Injury,
8
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Avalanche
Experienced, 6
Minor,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Off-route,
No/Little, 4
Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1
No/Little, 10
Minor,
Roped, Sport,
Visibility, Off-
route, Late in
Day, Late
Start,
Inadequate
1
Equipment,
Serious, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1
Serious, 8
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Experienced, 8
Deadly,
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ledge Fall,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Minor, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche,
Severe
Weather
No/Little, 11
Moderate,
Experienced,
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
1 1
Poor
No/Little, 11
Deadly,
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
2 1
Exposure,
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund

1
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Ski-related ,
Deadly, Head 5
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
1
Serious 1

Moderate,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off- 1
route, Gym
10
Climber,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Belay
Error 1 1 1
3

Serious,
Roped, Sport 1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Lowering
Error

1 1
Serious, 3
Unroped ,
Bouldering

1
Unknown, 5
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

Minor, 4
Roped, Sport,
Gear Broke

Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
1
aineering
Descent, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Miscommunic
1
ation
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Natural
Rockfall

1
Deadly, 4
Unroped ,
Solo, Off-
route

1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Solo, Run
Out,
Inadequate
1 1
Protection /
Deadly, 8
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
1
Rappel Error
6
No/Little,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, No
Helmet,
Belay Error 1 1 1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled, Belay
Error
2
Roped, Trad 4
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled, Belay
Error

1
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
1
Protection /
Serious, 9
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Off-route,
Descent, 2
Alpine/Mount
aineering

2
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Bergschrund,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund
1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Non-climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche

1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Gym Climber,
Object
Dropped/Disl
2
odged
Deadly, Head 6
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged, Belay
Error
2
Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
Moderate, 4
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1 1
Roped, Trad 3
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1 1
Experienced, 9
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Pendulum,
Object
Dropped/Disl
2
odged, Gear
No/Little, 7
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Anchor
1 1 1
Failure /
No/Little, 8
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Inadequate
Food/Water,
Late in Day,
1 1 1
Fatigue
Serious, 5
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading

1
No/Little, 7
Minor,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Stranded /
1 1
Lost /
Minor, 4
Roped, Top-
Rope, Solo

1
Moderate, 4
Serious,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

Serious, 1 1
Head / Brain
8
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error,
Miscommunic
ation 1
Experienced, 8
Minor,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Large Group,
Object
Minor, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
3
Overdue
Minor, 5
Visibility, Late
in Day,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1 1
Minor, 9
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Visibility, Late
in Day,
Inadequate
Equipment,
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Late in Day,
1
Stranded /
Experienced, 12
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Visibility, Late
in Day, Late
Start,
2
Fatigue, Knot
Experienced, 8
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
No/Little, 12
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Piton/Ice
Screw, Poor
Cond/Season
2 1 1
al Risk,
Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
1 3
Crevasse /
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
1 1
Alpine/Mount
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1 1
Pulled
No/Little, 8
Moderate,
Experienced,
Serious,
Roped, Large
Group, Gear
Broke,
Inadequate
1 1 1
Protection /
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
2
Handhold/Fo
Roped, Sport, 3
Run Out

1 1
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

1
Serious, 6
Roped, Sport,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Belay Error
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Descent, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Lowering
Error

2
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Experienced, 5
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Rappel Error

1 1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error
1 1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Crevasse /
1 1
Moat /
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ledge Fall,
Distracted
1
Serious, 7
Descent,
Unroped ,
Non-climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Large Group
1
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Off-route
No/Little, 7
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1 1
Stranded /
Deadly, 6
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Natural
1
Rockfall,
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness,
Inadequate
1
Equipment
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Serious, 4
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading

1
No/Little, 8
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled,
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall

1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury, Non-
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness, Non-
1
Ascent Illness
Roped, Trad 3
Climbing,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue

1
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
No/Little, 10
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Food/Water,
1 1 1
Late in Day,
5
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 2
Serious, 6
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Stranded /
Lost /
No/Little, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather
1 1 1
Minor, 8
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
1
Visibility,
Serious, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Avalanche
No/Little, 10
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
1
Crevasse /
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
1
othold Broke
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Helmet,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error

Experienced, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Stranded /
Lost /
1
Overdue,
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Rappel Error
No/Little, 9
Minor,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Visibility, Late
in Day,
1
Inadequate
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Severe
1 1 1
Weather
Serious, 7
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Non-Ascent
Illness, Large
Group,
Inadequate
Serious, 4
Roped, Top-
Rope, Late in
Day

1
Deadly, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue

1
Deadly, 3
Unroped ,
Solo

1
Moderate, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Gym Climber,
Inadequate
1 1 1
Protection /
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route
3 1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Belay Error

Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Belay Error

1
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet, Late
in Day,
Fatigue,
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Sport, Run
Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Top-Rope,
Large Group,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum

Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
2
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Solo, Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
No/Little, 9
Minor, Head /
Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Severe
1 1
Weather, No
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route
1
6

No/Little,
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Gym Climber,
Belay Error 2 1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
Error
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 4
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
Serious, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche

Deadly, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Cornice /
1
Snow Bridge
No/Little, 10
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1 1 1
Visibility,
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo, Non-
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related
1
Deadly, 8
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Party
1
Separated,
Unknown, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
Protection /
Serious, 8
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Exposure,
Serious, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
1
Serious, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Exposure,
Fatigue
1 1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Gym Climber,
Belay Error

Experienced, 9
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
2
Position,
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Poor
Position,
Lowering
Error
No/Little, 11
Minor,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
1 1
Visibility,
Experienced, 7
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather, Off-
route, Party
2
Separated
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Aid &
Big Wall, Gear
Broke, Rappel
Error
1
Descent, 5
Roped,
Distracted, No
Backup or End
Knot, Rappel
Error

1
Experienced, 10
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mounta
ineering,
Visibility,
Natural
Serious, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mounta
ineering, Poor
Position,
Natural
Rockfall
1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Poor
Position,
Natural
Rockfall

No/Little, 7
Serious, Head /
Brain Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mounta
ineering, Poor
Position,
Natural
3 1
Rockfall
Experienced, 8
Serious, Head /
Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Poor
Position,
Intoxicated,
Rappel Error
1 1
Minor, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mounta
ineering, Off-
route, No
Helmet
1
No/Little, 8
Minor,
Descent,
Roped,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather, Off-
route,
2 2 1
Stranded /
Minor, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Wildlife

1
Unroped , 6
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche
Unroped , 5
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Inadequate
1
Equipment
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
2
Crevasse /
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Non-
climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot

Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
Rushed,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped,
Piton/Ice
Screw, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Ice
Climbing,
Knot & Tie-in
1
Error, Anchor
No/Little, 7
Moderate,
Minor,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Visibility, No
Backup or
End Knot
1 1 1 1
Serious, 7
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Avalanche,
Large Group,
Stranded /
Lost /
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Run Out,
Late in Day
Experienced, 4
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1
Deadly, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone

1
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Run
Out, Ledge
2
Fall,
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
1 1
Handhold/Fo
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Experienced, 7
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Solo,
Climbing
Alone, No
Helmet
1
5

Experienced,
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Solo 1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Roped, Belay
Error

1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Late in
No/Little,
Day
Serious,
Roped, Trad 1 1
Climbing,
7
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
Severe
Weather,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1 1 1
Serious, 8
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet, Late
in Day,
Lowering
Error,
1
Miscommunic
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Poor
Position,
Anchor
Failure / Error
2 1
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Stranded /
1
Lost /
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error
1
Serious, 7
Minor,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Poor
Position,
Poor
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

Deadly, 6
Descent,
Roped, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Rappel Error
1
Deadly, 5
Descent,
Roped, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error

No/Little, 11
Moderate,
Deadly,
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Non-climbing,
1 1 1 1
Anchor
Deadly, Head 9
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Fatigue, No
2
Backup or
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Roped, Sport,
Natural
Rockfall

1
Serious, 5
Roped,
Exposure,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged, Gear
Broke

Roped, Sport, 3
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

2
Serious, 10
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route, No
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
2
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Late in Day,
Inadequate
1 1
Equipment
Experienced, 5
Minor,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Ice
Climbing
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error,
Miscommunic
ation
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Natural
Rockfall

No/Little, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
1
Deadly, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Anchor
Failure / Error

1 1
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
2
Serious, 9
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Poor
Position,
Minor, 7
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
Experienced, 8
Minor,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
2
Collapse,
5
No/Little,
Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Inadequate
Equipment 1 1
Serious, 5
Unroped ,
Solo, Off-
route, No
Helmet

1 1
Serious, 4
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
1 1
Late in Day,
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Run
Out
1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

1 3
No/Little, 4
Roped, Sport,
Belay Error

1 1
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Rushed, No
Helmet,
Belay Error
2
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Poor
Position, No
Helmet, Gym
1 1
Climber,
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Belay Error

Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Moderate, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Ledge Fall,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Experienced, 10
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Rushed, Late
in Day, Ledge
Fall, Fatigue,
1 1
Inadequate
No/Little, 9
Minor, Head /
Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Pendulum,
Rushed,
1
Inadequate
Serious, 8
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Rushed, Late
in Day,
Fatigue,
Distracted,
Knot & Tie-in
1 1
Error
Experienced, 4
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo

1
6

Moderate,
Experienced,
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Wildlife 1
Moderate, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Poor
Position, No
Helmet
2 1
Deadly, 5
Roped, Sport,
Solo, No
Helmet

1
Serious, 2
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Deadly, Head 6
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues
1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Glissading

Minor, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading,
Late in Day

Serious, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading
2
Deadly, Head 6
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing
2
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure

Alpine/ 3
Mountaineeri
ng, Ascent
Illness,
Fatigue

Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
Deadly, Solo, 7
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
No/Little,
Illness,
Minor, Poor
Cond/Season
Unroped , 1
al Risk,
Solo,
8
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Fatigue,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 1 1
Moderate, 7
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Knot
& Tie-in
Error, Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
1
Error
Deadly, 9
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Piton/Ice
Screw, Late
in Day,
Inadequate
1 1 1
Protection /
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Roped,
Pendulum,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Fatigue
Minor, 5
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Natural
Rockfall

Descent, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Natural
Rockfall

1
Serious, 8
Descent,
Roped, Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall, No
Backup or
1
End Knot,
Experienced, 9
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
2 1
Object
Minor, 3
Roped, Sport

Serious, 3
Unroped ,
Anchor
Failure / Error

1
No/Little, 11
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Late in Day,
Gym Climber,
Fatigue,
1 1
Distracted,
No/Little, 11
Minor,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
1 1
aineering,
Minor, 4
Roped, Sport,
Wildlife

1
Experienced, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche
Experienced, 5
Deadly, Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure

1
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo, Ice
Climbing,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche
1
Serious, 6
Roped, Top-
Rope, No
Helmet, Knot
& Tie-in
Error, Anchor
Failure / Error
1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Belay Error,
Miscommunic
2
ation
Deadly, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 2
Descent, 5
Roped, Sport,
Knot & Tie-in
Error,
Lowering
Error

1
5

No/Little,
Minor, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Alpine/Mount
aineering 1
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Late in Day,
Inadequate
Protection /
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Deadly, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Run Out,
1
Inadequate
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Late
in Day,
Inadequate
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Roped, Sport, 3
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Anchor
Failure / Error
2 2
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Run Out,
Late in Day,
Belay Error

1
Minor, Head / 7
Brain Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo, No
Helmet,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1 1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Lowering
Error
Deadly, 4
Unroped ,
Solo, Anchor
Failure / Error

No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Belay
Error
1
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1 1
Poor
Serious, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Inadequate
Equipment
1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
No/Little, 7
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Pendulum,
Lowering
Error,
Miscommunic
1 1 1
ation
Moderate, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Lowering
Error,
1
Miscommunic
Deadly, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Rappel Error

Deadly, 4
Descent,
Roped,
Rappel Error

1
Deadly, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Rappel Error

Minor, Head / 5
Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Rappel Error

1
Deadly, 8
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, No
Helmet, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Inadequate
2
Equipment,
Serious, 4
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall

2
No/Little, 5
Roped, Sport,
Large Group,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

1 1
Serious, 7
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Stranded /
Lost /
Solo, 5
Climbing
Alone, Ice
Climbing,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche,
Stranded /
Lost /
Minor, 8
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
1 1
Rappel Error,
Alpine/ 5
Mountaineeri
ng, Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Stranded /
Lost /
1
Overdue
No/Little, 7
Descent,
Roped,
Visibility, Late
in Day, Late
Start,
Stranded /
Lost /
1 1 1
Overdue
7
Experienced,
Deadly,
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche
Serious, 6
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Wildlife, Late
in Day
Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Late in Day

Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Rushed,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 5
Roped, Sport,
Fatigue,
Anchor
Failure / Error

No/Little, 7
Experienced,
Serious,
Roped, No
Helmet, Gym
Climber, Knot
& Tie-in Error
1 1
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Bouldering,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route
Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure
1
Deadly, 4
Roped, Off-
route,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue

3
Serious, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
Inadequate
1
Equipment
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
2 1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Natural
Rockfall
2
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Fatigue,
Stranded /
Moderate, 13
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Position,
2 3 1 1
Exposure,
Serious, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1
No/Little, 9
Experienced,
Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Off-route,
Rushed,
2 4 3 1
Crowds,
No/Little, 10
Serious,
Descent,
Climbing
Alone, Non-
climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Visibility, Late
Serious, 3
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crowds,
Object
Dropped/Disl
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Late in Day,
Distracted,
Knot & Tie-in
1
Error
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
1 1
Alpine/Mount
Experienced, 7
Minor, Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
Experienced, 4
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1 1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, No
Helmet, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
Error
Serious, 2
Alpine/Mount
aineering

Serious, 7
Minor, Head /
Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Large Group
No/Little, 6
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
1
Experienced, 6
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
2
Deadly, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure

2
Serious, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Glissading

Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Fatigue

No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo, Ice
Climbing,
Exposure
1
Serious, 3
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

Experienced, 4
Serious,
Roped, Ice
Climbing

1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall

Roped, Trad 3
Climbing,
Late in Day

Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Inadequate
1
Protection /
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped,
Piton/Ice
Screw, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Gym Climber,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
Error
Experienced, 8
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Fatigue,
Anchor
Failure /
Error,
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Serious, 7
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Off-route,
Late in Day,
Inadequate
Protection /
1 1
Pulled
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error
1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Rappel Error
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Handhold/Fo
Serious, 8
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Late in Day,
Large Group,
Inadequate
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Fatigue

1
Experienced, 9
Deadly,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
1
Backup or
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
Experienced, 7
Minor,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Stranded /
Lost /
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
Moderate, 7
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Pendulum,
Late in Day,
Fatigue

1 1 1
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
2 1
Serious, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

Serious, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

Serious,
Roped, Top- 1
Rope, Object
7
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Anchor
Failure / Error 2 2
Serious, 4
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche

Minor, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue

2
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo

1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure
1 1
No/Little, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
1 1
Issues, Ice
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Deadly, 5
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Solo,
Climbing
Alone

Experienced, 1
Deadly, Head
9
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error 1
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading

Experienced, 4
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing
Serious, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Distracted,
Belay Error

2
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

2 1
No/Little, 8
Experienced,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
1 1
othold Broke,
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
No/Little, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Large Group,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Bouldering

1
Unknown, 4
Serious,
Roped, Ice
Climbing

Experienced, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Piton/Ice
Screw, Ice
Climbing,
Inadequate
1 1
Protection /
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

6
No/Little,
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1 1
Serious, 9
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Rushed, Run
Out, Ledge
Fall, Object
Dropped/Disl
2
odged,
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Gym Climber,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1 1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport

1 1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
Error
1
Deadly, 9
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
Backup or
Experienced, 8
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Knot & Tie-in
Error, Anchor
Failure /
1
Error, Rappel
Moderate, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error
1 1
Deadly, 6
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Knot & Tie-in
Error, Rappel
Error

Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Poor
Position,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

No/Little, 6
Experienced,
Serious,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing
1
Minor, 7
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Off-route,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Rappel Error
1
No/Little, 10
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Off-
route, Late in
Day, Gym
Climber,
1
Fatigue,
No/Little, 7
Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility, Off-
route, Late in
Day,
Stranded /
1 1 1
Lost /
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
Helmet,
1
Large Group
No/Little, 8
Experienced,
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
2 1
Rockfall,
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Roped, Sport,
Distracted,
Knot & Tie-in
Error
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route

1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ledge Fall

Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
No/Little, 8
Moderate,
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Gym Climber,
Fatigue,
Stranded /
2 1 1
Lost /
Experienced, 5
Minor,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error
2
Deadly, 7
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Knot & Tie-in
Error, Anchor
Failure /
1
Error, Rappel
5

Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Serious,
Rappel Error
Descent,
7
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Late in Day,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 1
Deadly, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Exposure

1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

1
5

Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ski-related ,
Avalanche,
Large Group
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche

1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Belay
Error
1
No/Little, 10
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
1 1
Snow Bridge
Serious, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund
1
Serious, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund
1
Deadly, 5
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall
1
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Anchor
Failure /
Error,
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Fatigue,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Inadequate
2 1
Protection /
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Deadly, 4
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Equipment

No/Little, 10
Moderate,
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, No
Helmet,
Anchor
2 1 1 1
Failure /
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Moderate, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
2 1
Pulled
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1 1
Roped, Trad 4
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Experienced, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
1 1
Error
Serious, 10
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Helmet,
Large Group,
Distracted,
No Backup or
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Lowering
Error

1 1 1
Minor, 8
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route,
Rushed,
Stranded /
Lost /
2
Overdue,
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Late in Day,
Experienced, 12
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Run
Out, Late in
Day, Fatigue,
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet, No
1 1
Backup or
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error

1
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Visibility, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error
1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Rappel Error
1
Serious, 4
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall

Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall

Serious, 3
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility

1
No/Little, 8
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Stranded /
Lost /
2 1
Overdue,
Minor, 4
Roped, Off-
route,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue

Serious, 6
Roped, Sport,
Natural
Rockfall,
Gear Broke,
Belay Error

No/Little, 9
Moderate,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
1 1
Lowering
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Fatigue,
Anchor
Failure / Error
1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Experienced, 8
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Solo,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
No/Little, 6
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Rappel Error

1 1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Late in Day,
Inadequate
1
Protection /
Roped, Trad 4
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

No/Little,
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Gym Climber,
Distracted,
Belay Error 1
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Ledge
Fall,
Inadequate
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Lowering
Error

Serious, 8
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Gym Climber,
Distracted,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
Error
No/Little, 11
Deadly,
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1 1 1
Late in Day,
Serious, 10
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
No/Little, 10
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Crowds, Gym
Climber,
5 1
Object
Minor, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Solo,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury, Roped,
Trad Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Dislo
dged,
Handhold/Foo
thold Broke 1
Serious, 3
Roped, Ice
Climbing

1
Serious, Ski- 4
related , Poor
Cond/Seasonal
Risk,
Avalanche

1
Serious, 5
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Inadequate
Protection / 2
Pulled
Serious, 5
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Seasonal
Risk,
Avalanche
1 1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

Alpine/ 2
Mountaineerin
g, Ascent
Illness

1
Serious, 4
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ski-
related

1
Serious, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather

1 1
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness, Severe
Weather

2
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Object
Dropped/Dislo
dged

1
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Natural
No/Little, 10
Experienced,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury, Roped,
Sport, No
Helmet, Ledge
Fall, Gym
Climber, 1 1 1
Miscommunic
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury, Roped,
Sport, Gear
Broke

1 1
No/Little, 7
Experienced,
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, No
Backup or End
Knot, Rappel
Error
1
Serious, 5
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled, Anchor
Failure / Error

1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1 1 1
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Object
Dropped/Dislo
dged

1
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall, No
Helmet
1
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Crampon
Issues,
Glissading

1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Off-
route

1 1
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Natural
Rockfall

1
Minor, 4
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Rushed, Ledge
Fall,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Moderate, 8
Experienced,
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or End
Knot, Lowering
Error 1
Minor, 8
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Sport, Late in
Day,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Rappel Error
Experienced, 10
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Rushed, Late
in Day,
Fatigue,
Stranded /
Lost /
Experienced, 7
Deadly, Roped,
Trad Climbing,
Aid & Big Wall,
Gear Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury, Roped,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor Position,
Inadequate
Equipment
Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Solo, Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Handhold/Foo
thold Broke
1
Serious, 4
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1 1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Lowering
Error,
Miscommunic
ation

1 1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Rushed, Ledge
Fall,
Handhold/Foo
thold Broke
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Crowds, No
Backup or End
Knot, Lowering
Error

Minor, 7
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Anchor
Failure / Error,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Rappel Error
Serious, 10
Head / Brain
Injury, Roped,
Trad Climbing,
Sport, Aid &
Big Wall, Off-
route, Run
Out, Fatigue,
Inadequate 2
Protection /
No/Little, 6
Minor, Roped,
Trad Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1 1
Moderate, 10
Serious,
Roped, Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Late in Day, 1 1
Fatigue,
Serious, 9
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Rushed, No
Helmet, Late in
Day, Rappel
Error 1 1
Experienced, 5
Minor, Roped,
Sport,
Handhold/Foo
thold Broke

2
Serious, Ski- 4
related , Non-
Ascent Illness,
Wildlife

1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Non-climbing

1 1
No/Little, 5
Minor, Roped,
Large Group,
Stranded /
Lost / Overdue

1 1
Serious, 5
Roped, Sport,
Object
Dropped/Dislo
dged,
Handhold/Foo
thold Broke

1
Experienced, 10
Serious,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Rushed, Run
Out, Late in
Day, Fatigue,
Gear Broke,
Inadequate 1
Protection /
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
Helmet

Serious, 5
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ski-
related

Experienced, 6
Serious,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ski-
related ,
Avalanche

Serious, 9
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Rushed, Late
in Day, Object
Dropped/Dislo
dged, Rappel 1 1
Error
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury, Roped,
Ice Climbing,
Poor
Cond/Seasonal
Risk, Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection / 1 1
Pulled
Minor, 5
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Rappel Error

1
Serious, 6
Roped, Top-
Rope, Gear
Broke,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Anchor
Failure / Error

Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury, Roped,
Trad Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Deadly, Roped, 6
Trad Climbing,
Non-Ascent
Illness, Anchor
Failure / Error,
Stranded /
Lost / Overdue

Deadly, 5
Unroped ,
Solo, Climbing
Alone,
Exposure

Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Ledge
Fall, Lowering
Error

Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury, Roped,
Trad Climbing,
Belay Error
Serious, 8
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Run Out,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Lowering Error
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Belay Error

1 1
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury, Roped,
Sport, No
Helmet, Ledge
Fall

2 1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

2
Moderate, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Stranded /
Lost / Overdue 1 1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Gym
Climber,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
Deadly, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ski-
related ,
Inadequate
Equipment
1
Serious, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ski-
related ,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund 1
No/Little, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse / 3 1
Moat /
Serious, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues, Large
Group

No/Little, 6
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues
1
Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged, Gear
Broke
5
Serious,
Roped,
Pendulum,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
5
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury, Ledge
Fall, Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
2
Protection /
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
1
Glissading
5

Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering 1
 6
Experienced,
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Aid & Big
Wall,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Serious, 9
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility,
Rushed, No
Helmet, Late
in Day,
2 1
Rappel Error
Deadly, Head 7
/ Brain Injury,
Trad
Climbing,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
1
Cond/Season
Serious, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1
Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1
Minor, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
Severe
Weather,
2
Stranded /
 3

Serious,
Roped, Sport 1
4

Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo, No
Helmet 1
4

Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Distracted 1
5

Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Gear
Broke 1
6
Experienced,
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Inadequate
No/Little,
Protection /
Serious,
Pulled 1
Roped, Trad
8
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Pendulum,
Inadequate
Food/Water,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 3 1
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues

1 1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

Serious,
Head / Brain 1 1
Injury,
7
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Equipment 1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke
No/Little, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Gym
Climber,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
No/Little, 6
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Late in Day
1 1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1 1
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Exposure

1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1 1
Serious, 9
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Helmet,
No Backup or
End Knot,
1
Inadequate
Minor, 5
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
Exposure,
Large Group
Deadly,
Descent,
Serious, 6
Roped,
Minor, Head /
Alpine/Mount
Brain Injury,
aineering,
Roped,
Severe
Alpine/Mount
Weather,
aineering,
Stranded /
Crevasse
Lost / /
Moat
Overdue/ 2
Berschrund,
9
Severe
Weather,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Run
Out,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Minor, 7
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Stranded /
Serious, 7
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Glissading,
Severe
Weather,
3

Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
 3

Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
2
Weather
Minor, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

6
Experienced,
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
4

Experienced,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1
Experienced, 4
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Distracted

1 2
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Deadly,
Pendulum, 7
Descent,
Exposure,
Roped, Trad
Visibility, Off-
Climbing,
route,
Alpine/Mount
Rushed, No
aineering,
Helmet, Late
Exposure,
in Day, Gym
Anchor
Climber,
Failure
Fatigue,/ Error
17
Inadequate
Equipment,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 1 1 1
Deadly, 6
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall
2 1
Deadly, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue

1
Deadly, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
2
Moat /
Deadly, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness

1
Deadly, Non- 2
climbing

1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone

1 1
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped, Top-
Rope, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
Error,
1
Miscommunic
3

Deadly, Ice
Climbing,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche 1
3

Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo 1
3

Experienced,
Serious,
Roped 1
 4

Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke 1
3

Serious,
Natural
Rockfall,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 1
4

Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Rappel Error
5

Experienced,
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
4

Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Natural
Rockfall 1
5
No/Little,
Serious,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Equipment 1 1
Experienced, 8
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche,
1 1
Severe
Experienced, 6
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Glissading
1
3

Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall
1
3
Alpine/
Mountaineeri
ng, Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund 1
2

Deadly,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke 1
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet

1
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
1
Miscommunic
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

No/Little, 6
Experienced,
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1 1
7
Experienced,
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error 1
Unknown, 7
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
1
Crevasse /
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 3
Roped,
Pendulum

Serious,
Roped,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged 1
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Deadly, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering, No
Helmet

1
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Inadequate
Protection /
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Lowering
Error

2
No/Little, 10
Minor,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Visibility, Off-
route, Late in
2 1
Day,
5
Experienced,
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1
5

Experienced,
Descent,
Roped, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error 1
Serious, 3
Roped,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke

Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche

2
No/Little, 13
Experienced,
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Exposure,
2 1 1
Visibility, Late
Minor, 10
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Severe
Weather,
Late in Day,
4

Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness,
Fatigue 1
Minor, 4
Roped, Sport,
Gear Broke

Experienced,
Deadly,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering 1
Deadly, 5
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Inadequate
Equipment
Minor, 7
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Lowering
1
Error
Deadly, 6
Roped, No
Helmet, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Belay Error
1
Deadly,
6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 1 2
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Handhold/Fo
Experienced, 6
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Rappel Error,
Miscommunic
ation

Experienced, 1 1 1
Deadly,
7
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather 2 1
 5
Experienced,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
6
Unknown,
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness 2
6
Unknown,
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness 2
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet, No
Backup or
2
End Knot,
Serious, Off- 2
route

No/Little, 7
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
1 1 1
Error
Minor, 6
Descent,
Roped,
Fatigue,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Rappel Error
3

Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness 1
4

Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1
Experienced, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
Error
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

2
Experienced, 9
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Late in Day,
Fatigue, No
Backup or
1
End Knot,
 5
Unknown,
Serious,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Non-Ascent
Illness 1
4

Unknown,
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
Descent,
aineering,
Solo,
Exposure 1
Alpine/Mount
7
aineering,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather, Off-
route,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Bouldering

1 1
4

Serious,
Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Avalanche 3
3

Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness 1
 5

Serious,
Descent,
Pendulum,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness 1
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Exposure

1
Serious, 4
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
4

Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Fatigue 1
No/Little, 4
Minor,
Descent, Late
in Day

1
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Visibility

1
Experienced, 4
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

Serious, 3
Unroped ,
Solo

1
Deadly, 4
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

1
Experienced, 9
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
1
End Knot,
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
No/Little,
Alpine/Mount
Moderate,
aineering
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent, 1
Roped,
11
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Exposure,
Late in Day,
Fatigue 2 1 1 1
Experienced,
8
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error,
Miscommunic
ation 1
Serious, 5
Descent,
Roped, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Rappel Error

No/Little, 6
Minor,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Gym Climber,
Stranded /
Lost /
1
Overdue
No/Little, 4
Serious,
Roped,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

1
Experienced, 9
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, Late
in Day,
Stranded / Lost
1
/ Overdue,
Serious, Solo 2
Serious, 9
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Experienced, 8
Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
2
Position,
Experienced, 7
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Late in Day,
Fatigue
Deadly, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund

Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Inadequate
Protection /
2
Pulled
Serious, 7
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Piton/Ice
Screw, Gear
Broke,
Inadequate
1 1
Protection /
 5

Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Rappel Error 1
5

Experienced,
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Solo 1
4

Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall 1
Experienced, 9
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
1 1
Crevasse /
Deadly, 3
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Serious, 4
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Serious, 5
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
4

Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering 2
6
Minor,
Descent,
Unroped ,
No/Little,
Solo,
Serious,
Alpine/Mount
Head / Brain
aineering,
Injury,
Crampon
Roped,
Issues 1
Alpine/Mount
8
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 2 1
Experienced, 8
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Anchor
Failure /
1
Error, Rappel
Deadly, 7
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
Error
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Non-climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
12
Rushed, Late
in Day,
Fatigue, Knot
& Tie-in
Error, Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
Error
Experienced, 5
Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Serious, 4
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall

1
Deadly, 8
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Avalanche,
5
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1
3

Serious,
Unroped ,
Bouldering 1
Serious,
7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Sport,
Run Out, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
4

Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering 2
2

Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering 1
6
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Inadequate
Equipment 1
5

Serious,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Off-route,
Run Out

1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
No/Little, 5
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route

1 1 1
Deadly, 3
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Deadly, 4
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Inadequate
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
3

Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing 1
3

Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing 2
3

Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing 1
5
Experienced,
Serious,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged 1
 5

No/Little,
Experienced,
Roped, Ice
Climbing,
Handhold/Fo
othold Broke 1
Serious, 3
Roped, Trad
Climbing

Minor, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Run Out,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Handhold/Fo
2
othold Broke
Serious, 7
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Run Out,
Stranded /
2
Lost /
Serious, 6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
Error
4

Serious,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather
 3

Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness 1
Serious, 3
Roped, Sport

1
6

Experienced,
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Gym /
Artificial, Gym
Climber
7
Moderate,
Deadly,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Gear Broke 2 1
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Exposure

1
Minor, 4
Roped, Sport,
Gear Broke

1
Experienced, 5
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing

1
No/Little, 6
Experienced,
Serious,
Roped, Sport,
Ledge Fall

1 1 1
Serious,
7
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
Error 1
No/Little,
7
Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
Error 1 1
4

Minor,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Party
Separated 1
3

Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure 1
 4
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall 1
4

Minor,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Late Start,
Party
Separated 1
Serious, 5
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crowds,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Off-
route, Object
Dropped/Disl
odged
No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Object
Dropped/Disl
1
odged
4

Deadly,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Party
Separated 1
 3

Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Natural
Rockfall 1
3

Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo 1
3

Deadly,
Serious,
Natural
Rockfall 1
5

Serious,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Lowering
Error
5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Ledge Fall,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1
Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Ledge
Fall,
Inadequate
Equipment
1 1
Experienced, 3
Deadly,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

1
Experienced, 7
Deadly,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
Avalanche,
1 1
Cornice /
Deadly, 6
Descent,
Roped, Large
Group,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue,
Rappel Error
1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Pendulum,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Serious, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Inadequate
Equipment

1
Serious, 6
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Inadequate
Equipment
1
Experienced, 8
Minor,
Descent,
Roped, Sport,
Distracted,
No Backup or
End Knot,
Lowering
2
Error
3

Serious,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness 1
5
No/Little,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1 1
Minor 1

Deadly, Head 5
/ Brain Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet

No/Little, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Exposure,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue
1
 5
Serious,
Descent,
Roped,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged,
Lowering
Error
4

No/Little,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo 1 1
3

Serious,
Unroped ,
Solo
Deadly, Head 7
/ Brain Injury,
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
2 1
Error
Deadly,
7
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Visibility, No
Helmet, Late
in Day,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1
No/Little, 5
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route

1 1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
4
Alpine/
Mountaineeri
ng, Poor
Position,
Poor
Cond/Season
al Risk,
Avalanche
Serious, 7
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Top-
Rope, Ice
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
1
odged,
4

Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo, Gym
Climber 1
3

Deadly, Top-
Rope,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1
No/Little,
7
Deadly,
Descent,
Roped, Knot
& Tie-in
Error, Anchor
Failure /
Error, Rappel
Error 1 1
 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Inadequate
Equipment 1
Roped, Sport, 3
Distracted

1
No/Little, 11
Moderate,
Experienced,
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
1 1 1
Alpine/Mount
Deadly, 4
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

Deadly, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled

Serious, 6
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Distracted,
Inadequate
Protection /
1
Pulled
Minor,
Roped,
Crampon
6
Issues, Ice
Climbing,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1 1 1
Experienced, 6
Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, No
Helmet,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled
1
Minor, 3
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue

1 2
6
Descent,
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Off-
route, Late
Start,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 1
Deadly, 6
Serious,
Head / Brain
No/Little,
Injury,
Serious,
Descent, ,
Unroped
Alpine/Mount
Solo,
aineering,
Climbing
Crevasse /
Alone, 3
Moat /
Alpine/Mount
10
aineering,
Exposure,
Off-route,
Inadequate
Equipment,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 1 1
Deadly,
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
7
aineering,
Ascent
Illness,
Visibility,
Severe
Weather,
Party
Separated 1 1
Serious, 5
Roped, Trad
Climbing, Aid
& Big Wall,
Gear Broke

1
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering
Serious, 6
Head / Brain
Injury, Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness
Serious, 4
Unroped ,
Solo, Object
Dropped/Disl
odged

2
Serious, 4
Roped, Top-
Rope,
Pendulum

1
Serious, 4
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering

1
Minor, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Glissading
Serious, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Glissading
Minor, 10
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
1
Poor
3

Deadly,
Unroped ,
Solo
4

Serious,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Wildlife 1
 5
Experienced,
Serious,
Deadly, Head
Roped, Trad
/Climbing,
Brain Injury,
Unroped
Severe ,
Solo,
Weather,
Climbing
Inadequate
Alone,
Equipment 1 1
Alpine/Mount
10
aineering,
Crevasse /
Moat /
Berschrund,
Exposure,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 1
No/Little, 8
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Off-route,
1 1
Inadequate
5
Serious,
Head / Brain
Injury,
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
Object
Dropped/Disl
odged 2
Serious, 8
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Exposure,
Anchor
No/Little, 7
Deadly, Head
/ Brain Injury,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Climbing
Alone,
Inadequate
1 1
Equipment
Serious, 4
Roped,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Cornice /
Snow Bridge
Collapse
1 1
Serious, 10
Head / Brain
Injury,
Descent,
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
1
Crevasse /
Serious, 3
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent Illness

1
Deadly, 8
Unroped ,
Solo,
Alpine/Mount
aineering, Ice
Climbing,
Exposure,
Visibility,
1 1
Party
Serious, 6
Descent,
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Glissading
Serious, 5
Unroped ,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Crampon
Issues,
Inadequate
Equipment
No/Little,
Deadly,
Descent,
Unroped ,
9
Solo, Ice
Climbing,
Poor
Position,
Large Group,
Serious,
Inadequate
Descent,
Protection /
Roped,
Pulled Ice 1 1
Climbing,
8
Avalanche,
Icefall / Serac
/ Ice
Avalanche,
Crowds,
Inadequate
Protection /
Pulled 1
Descent, 4
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness, Non-
Ascent Illness

Serious, 5
Descent,
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Ascent
Illness, Non-
Ascent
Minor, Illness
Roped, Trad
Climbing,
7
Alpine/Mount
aineering,
Severe
Weather,
Fatigue,
Stranded /
Lost /
Overdue 2 1
 Mo
de r
ate

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1

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1

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& Bi g
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imb
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 1 1

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Bouldering - all -

Count of ID
2770
Bouldering - all -
Descent - all -
Non-climbing (empty)

Data Sum of TR Unroped incidents

Sum of Trad Climbing Sum of Sport Sum of Top-Rope Sum of Roped 1269
1584 898 173 865
Sum of Trad Climbing Sum of Sport Sum of Top-Rope Sum of Roped
804 170 86 1269

Trad Sport Top-rope Unknown

804 170 86 209

Roped Accidents by Style

Unknown
209
16%
Top-rope
86
7%

Trad
Sport 804
170 63%
13%

Trad Sport Top-rope Unknown

Bouldering - all -
Descent - all -
Non-climbing (empty)

Data
Publication Year Sum of Top-RoSum of Sport Sum of Trad Climbing
1990 2 19 36
1991 4 23 41
1992 2 24 44
1993 5 33 60
1994 4 23 38
1995 3 36 59
1996 1 37 64
1997 2 26 44
1998 1 26 56
1999 3 38 61
2000 29 47
2001 6 34 60
2002 2 34 54
2003 2 23 47
2004 3 27 45
2005 2 29 51
2006 2 22 37
2007 2 15 21
2008 4 24 42
2009 5 27 42
2010 10 37 62
2011 13 37 67
2012 10 34 62
2013 8 38 64
2014 12 36 66
2015 11 32 66
2016 16 42 78
2017 14 44 77
2018 11 30 50
2019 13 18 42
(empty) 1 1
Total Result 173 898 1584
 NOTE: The "Roped" tag was intended to be a time-of-accident status tag, and was applied only to accidents wher

Bouldering - all -
Descent - all -
oped incidents Non-climbing (empty)

Data
Sum of Trad Climbing Sum of Sport Sum of Top-Rope Sum of Roped
1584 898 173 865
ed only to accidents where a climber was roped at the time of the accident or incident. In this calculation analyzing accident
ation analyzing accidents of different Roped styles, Sport, Top-rope, and Trad were separately counted as being Roped discip
ed as being Roped disciplines. The total of Roped status tag incidents matches the sum total of roped discipline incidents, e
ed discipline incidents, except for: 1) roped incidents where the style is not clear ("Unknown" in the chart below) and 2) Top
chart below) and 2) Top-rope incidents where the participant was unroped at the time of the accident. To include the latter
nt. To include the latter category in this calculation, that number of incidents, 11, was added to the Roped time-of-accident t
Roped time-of-accident tag total.
Bouldering - all -
Sport - all -
Trad Climbing (empty)
Roped - all -
Non-climbing (empty)

Data
Sum of Pendulum Sum of Solo Sum of Climbing Alone
7 558 493

Top-rope couTop-rope %
Total Count of ID 86 100%
Inadequate Protection / 14 16%
No Helmet 17 20%
Rappel Error 9 10%
Stranded / Lost / Overdue 0%
Off-route 2 2%
Visibility 3 3%
Late in Day 5 6%
Handhold/Foothold Brok 4 5%
Object Dropped/Dislodg 8 9%
Run Out 0%
Pendulum 2 2%
Anchor Failure / Error 19 22%
No Backup or End Knot 10 12%
Fatigue 3 3%
Inadequate Equipment 4 5%
Belay Error 9 10%
Ledge Fall 2 2%
Severe Weather 1 1%
Exposure 0%
Lowering Error 15 17%
Gym Climber 4 5%
Rushed 4 5%
Gear Broke 2 2%
Miscommunication 11 13%
Solo 10 12%
Late Start 0%
Poor Position 1 1%
Distracted 5 6%
Natural Rockfall 0%
Piton/Ice Screw 0%
Knot & Tie-in Error 13 15%
Large Group 5 6%
Crowds 1 1%
Inadequate Food/Water 0%
Climbing Alone 1 1%
Wildlife 0%
Poor Cond/Seasonal Risk 0%
Intoxicated 1 1%
Party Separated 0%
Non-Ascent Illness 1 1%
Gym / Artificial 0%
Crampon Issues 1 1%
Crevasse / Moat / Berschrund 0%
Icefall / Serac / Ice Avalanche 0%
Cornice / Snow Bridge Collapse 0%
Ascent Illness 0%
Ski-related 0%
Glissading 0%
Avalanche 0%
Sum of Distracted

Total Count of ID
Inadequate Protection / Pulled
No Helmet
Rappel Error
Stranded / Lost / Overdue
Off-route
Visibility
Late in Day
Handhold/Foothold Broke
Object Dropped/Dislodged
Run Out
Pendulum
Anchor Failure / Error
No Backup or End Knot
Fatigue
Inadequate Equipment
Belay Error
Ledge Fall
Severe Weather
Exposure
Lowering Error
Gym Climber
Rushed
Gear Broke
Miscommunication
Solo
Late Start
Poor Position
Distracted
Natural Rockfall
Piton/Ice Screw
Knot & Tie-in Error
Large Group
Crowds
Inadequate Food/Water
Climbing Alone
Wildlife
Poor Cond/Seasonal Risk
Intoxicated
Party Separated
Non-Ascent Illness
Gym / Artificial
Crampon Issues
Crevasse / Moat / Berschrund
Icefall / Serac / Ice Avalanche
Cornice / Snow Bridge Collapse
Ascent Illness
Ski-related
Glissading
Avalanche
Sum of Miscommunication Sum of Lowering Error Sum of Rappel Error
47 145 76

Sport count Sport %

170 100% Total Count of ID
26 15% Inadequate Protection
20 12% No Helmet
24 14% Rappel Error
5 3% Stranded / Lost / Ove
6 4% Off-route
1 1% Visibility
8 5% Late in Day
4 2% Handhold/Foothold B
9 5% Object Dropped/Dislo
8 5% Run Out
3 2% Pendulum
11 6% Anchor Failure / Error
29 17% No Backup or End Kno
13 8% Fatigue
6 4% Inadequate Equipmen
29 17% Belay Error
5 3% Ledge Fall
5 3% Severe Weather
1 1% Exposure
28 16% Lowering Error
13 8% Gym Climber
3 2% Rushed
10 6% Gear Broke
14 8% Miscommunication
5 3% Solo
2 1% Late Start
6 4% Poor Position
12 7% Distracted
4 2% Natural Rockfall
0% Piton/Ice Screw
8 5% Knot & Tie-in Error
5 3% Large Group
4 2% Crowds
0% Inadequate Food/Wat
2 1% Climbing Alone
1 1% Wildlife
0% Poor Cond/Seasonal R
0% Intoxicated
0% Party Separated
1 1% Non-Ascent Illness
1 1% Gym / Artificial
0% Crampon Issues
0% Crevasse / Moat / Berschrund
0% Icefall / Serac / Ice Avalanche
0% Cornice / Snow Bridge Collapse
0% Ascent Illness
0% Ski-related
0% Glissading
0% Avalanche
Sum of Inadequate Protection / Pulled Sum of Knot & Tie-in Error Sum of Ledge Fall
181 68 49

Trad count Trad %

804 100%
390 49%
116 14%
95 12%
92 11%
90 11%
67 8%
63 8%
63 8%
58 7%
57 7%
56 7%
51 6%
49 6%
47 6%
46 6%
45 6%
45 6%
36 4%
34 4%
31 4%
31 4%
26 3%
25 3%
24 3%
24 3%
20 2%
19 2%
16 2%
14 2%
14 2%
13 2%
 11 1%
10 1%
10 1%
7 1%
5 1%
3 0%
2 0%
2 0%
1 0%
1 0%
0%
Moat / Berschrund 0%
ac / Ice Avalanche 0%
now Bridge Collapse 0%
0%
0%
0%
0%
Sum of Inadequate Food/Water Sum of No Helmet Sum of Visibility Sum of Run Out
17 7 42 33
Sum of Off-route Sum of Rushed Sum of Non-Ascent Illness Sum of Severe Weather
74 136 189 159
Sum of Exposure Sum of Poor Position Sum of Crevasse / Moat / Berschrund
38 35 6
Sum of Icefall / Serac / Ice Avalanche Sum of Cornice / Snow Bridge Collapse
126 129
Sum of Piton/Ice Screw Sum of Ascent Illness Sum of Crampon Issues Sum of Ski-related
1151 14 105 72
Sum of Glissading Sum of Poor Cond/Seasonal Risk Sum of Avalanche Sum of Wildlife
217 116 67 175
Sum of Natural Rockfall Sum of Crowds Sum of Late in Day Sum of Late Start
5 24 128 93
Sum of Party Separated Sum of Gym / Artificial Sum of Gym Climber Sum of Fatigue
29 23 3 28
Sum of Large Group Sum of Object Dropped/Dislodged Sum of Handhold/Foothold Broke
121 34 90
Sum of No Backup or End Knot Sum of Gear Broke Sum of Intoxicated
36 70 35
Sum of Inadequate Equipment Sum of Anchor Failure / Error Sum of Stranded / Lost / Overdue
5 185 73
Sum of Belay Error Count of ID
210 1826
Bouldering - all -
Crampon Issues - all -

Data
Sum of Pendulum Sum of Solo Sum of Climbing Alone Sum of Distracted
55 580 536 129

Ice count Ice percent

Count of ID 223 100%
Inadequate Protecti 69 31%
Solo 48 22%
Avalanche 28 13%
Poor Position 24 11%
Inadequate Equipm 23 10%
Visibility 22 10%
Exposure 22 10%
Icefall / Serac / Ic 20 9%
Stranded / Lost / 19 9%
Run Out 16 7%
Crampon Issues 16 7%
Climbing Alone 14 6%
Severe Weather 14 6%
Piton/Ice Screw 14 6%
Crevasse / Moat / 13 6%
Rappel Error 12 5%
Poor Cond/Seasonal 12 5%
Late in Day 12 5%
Anchor Failure / Er 12 5%
Fatigue 11 5%
Large Group 9 4%
Off-route 8 4%
Belay Error 8 4%
Knot & Tie-in Error 7 3%
Object Dropped/Di 7 3%
Gear Broke 7 3%
No Helmet 5 2%
Natural Rockfall 5 2%
Distracted 4 2%
Rushed 4 2%
Cornice / Snow Brid 4 2%
Miscommunication 3 1%
Lowering Error 3 1%
Ledge Fall 3 1%
Crowds 3 1%
Handhold/Foothold 3 1%
No Backup or End K 3 1%
Pendulum 2 1%
Inadequate Food/W 1 0%
Ascent Illness 1 0%
Late Start 1 0%
Party Separated 1 0%
Gym Climber 1 0%
Non-Ascent Illness 0%
Ski-related 0%
Glissading 0%
Wildlife 0%
Gym / Artificial 0%
Intoxicated 0%
Sum of Miscommunication Sum of Lowering Error Sum of Rappel Error
79 255 127

IC + Protection Pulled (added a PP filter to generate these numbers)

Sum of Pendulum 1 1%
Sum of Solo 4 6%
Sum of Climbing Alone 2 3%
Sum of Distracted 0%
Sum of Miscommunication 2 3%
Sum of Lowering Error 1 1%
Sum of Rappel Error 2 3%
Sum of Knot & Tie-in Error 1 1%
Sum of Ledge Fall 2 3%
Sum of Inadequate Food/Water 0%
Sum of No Helmet 1 1%
Sum of Visibility 4 6%
Sum of Run Out 14 20%
Sum of Off-route 2 3%
Sum of Rushed 2 3%
Sum of Non-Ascent Illness 0%
Sum of Severe Weather 1 1%
Sum of Exposure 4 6%
Sum of Poor Position 3 4%
Sum of Crevasse / Moat / Be 1 1%
Sum of Icefall / Serac / Ice A 2 3%
Sum of Cornice / Snow Bridge 1 1%
Sum of Piton/Ice Screw 10 14%
Sum of Ascent Illness 0%
Sum of Crampon Issues 6 9%
Sum of Ski-related 0%
Sum of Glissading 0%
Sum of Poor Cond/Seasonal R 4 6%
Sum of Avalanche 2 3%
Sum of Wildlife 0%
Sum of Natural Rockfall 2 3%
Sum of Crowds 1 1%
Sum of Late in Day 5 7%
Sum of Late Start 1 1%
Sum of Party Separated 0%
Sum of Gym / Artificial 0%
Sum of Gym Climber 0%
Sum of Fatigue 4 6%
Sum of Large Group 4 6%
Sum of Object Dropped/Disl 2 3%
Sum of Handhold/Foothold Broke 0%
Sum of No Backup or End Kno 1 1%
Sum of Gear Broke 1 1%
Sum of Intoxicated 0%
Sum of Inadequate Equipmen 3 4%
Sum of Anchor Failure / Error 3 4%
Sum of Stranded / Lost / Ov 1 1%
Sum of Belay Error 3 4%
Count of ID 69 100%
Sum of Knot & Tie-in Error Sum of Ledge Fall Sum of Inadequate Food/Water Sum of No Helmet
147 53 30 17
Sum of Visibility Sum of Run Out Sum of Off-route Sum of Rushed Sum of Non-Ascent Illness
46 64 93 243 244
Sum of Severe Weather Sum of Exposure Sum of Poor Position
241 38 47
Sum of Crevasse / Moat / Berschrund Sum of Icefall / Serac / Ice Avalanche
7 135
Sum of Cornice / Snow Bridge Collapse Sum of Piton/Ice Screw Sum of Ascent Illness
136 1273 30
Sum of Crampon Issues Sum of Ski-related Sum of Glissading Sum of Poor Cond/Seasonal Risk
109 73 223 143
Sum of Avalanche Sum of Wildlife Sum of Natural Rockfall Sum of Crowds Sum of Late in Day
72 234 11 84 252
Sum of Late Start Sum of Party Separated Sum of Gym / Artificial Sum of Gym Climber
167 54 71 4
Sum of Fatigue Sum of Large Group Sum of Object Dropped/Dislodged
61 181 50
Sum of Handhold/Foothold Broke Sum of No Backup or End Knot Sum of Gear Broke
163 52 124
Sum of Intoxicated Sum of Inadequate Equipment Sum of Anchor Failure / Error
65 7 606
Sum of Stranded / Lost / Overdue Sum of Belay Error Count of ID
136 325 2770
Sum of Inadequate Protection / Pulled
245
Bouldering - all -
Head / Brain Injury - all -
Unknown - all -

Data
Sum of Pendulum Sum of Solo Sum of Climbing Alone Sum of Distracted
55 580 536 129

Descent counDescent %
Sum of Pendulum 18 2%
Sum of Solo 176 20%
Sum of Climbing Al 51 6%
Sum of Distracted 22 3%
Sum of Miscommuni 29 3%
Sum of Lowering Er 79 9%
Sum of Rappel Erro 251 29%
Sum of Inadequate P 76 9%
Sum of Knot & Tie-i 31 4%
Sum of Ledge Fall 9 1%
Sum of Inadequate 7 1%
Sum of No Helmet 85 10%
Sum of Visibility 120 14%
Sum of Run Out 4 0%
Sum of Off-route 90 10%
Sum of Rushed 28 3%
Sum of Non-Ascent I 7 1%
Sum of Severe Wea 89 10%
Sum of Exposure 85 10%
Sum of Poor Positi 42 5%
Sum of Crevasse / 58 7%
Sum of Icefall / Ser 2 0%
Sum of Cornice / S 11 1%
Sum of Piton/Ice S 3 0%
Sum of Ascent Illne 25 3%
Sum of Crampon Is 56 6%
Sum of Ski-related 14 2%
Sum of Glissading 72 8%
Sum of Poor Cond/S 21 2%
Sum of Avalanche 27 3%
Sum of Wildlife 3 0%
Sum of Natural Rock 23 3%
Sum of Crowds 5 1%
Sum of Late in Day 89 10%
Sum of Late Start 19 2%
Sum of Party Separ 27 3%
Sum of Gym / Artificial 0%
Sum of Gym Climbe 10 1%
Sum of Fatigue 74 9%
Sum of Large Group 45 5%
Sum of Object Dro 20 2%
Sum of Handhold/F 12 1%
Sum of No Backup o 107 12%
Sum of Gear Broke 14 2%
Sum of Intoxicated 2 0%
Sum of Inadequate 99 11%
Sum of Anchor Failu 88 10%
Sum of Stranded / 123 14%
Sum of Belay Error 15 2%
Count of ID 865 100%
Sum of Miscommunication Sum of Lowering Error Sum of Rappel Error
79 255 127
Sum of Inadequate Protection / Pulled Sum of Knot & Tie-in Error Sum of Ledge Fall
245 147 53
Sum of Inadequate Food/Water Sum of No Helmet Sum of Visibility Sum of Run Out
30 17 46 64
Sum of Off-route Sum of Rushed Sum of Non-Ascent Illness Sum of Severe Weather
93 243 244 241
Sum of Exposure Sum of Poor Position Sum of Crevasse / Moat / Berschrund
38 47 7
Sum of Icefall / Serac / Ice Avalanche Sum of Cornice / Snow Bridge Collapse
135 136
Sum of Piton/Ice Screw Sum of Ascent Illness Sum of Crampon Issues Sum of Ski-related
1273 30 109 73
Sum of Glissading Sum of Poor Cond/Seasonal Risk Sum of Avalanche Sum of Wildlife
223 143 72 234
Sum of Natural Rockfall Sum of Crowds Sum of Late in Day Sum of Late Start
11 84 252 167
Sum of Party Separated Sum of Gym / Artificial Sum of Gym Climber Sum of Fatigue
54 71 4 61
Sum of Large Group Sum of Object Dropped/Dislodged Sum of Handhold/Foothold Broke
181 50 163
Sum of No Backup or End Knot Sum of Gear Broke Sum of Intoxicated
52 124 65
Sum of Inadequate Equipment Sum of Anchor Failure / Error Sum of Stranded / Lost / Overdue
7 606 136
Sum of Belay Error Count of ID Sum of Unroped
325 2770 81
 NOTE: Earlier tabs did not include 50th
NOTE: As noted on previous pages, Solo
Bouldering - all -

Data
Unknown Sum of Pendulum Sum of Solo Sum of Climbing Alone Sum of Distracted
1 1 1 1
(empty) 55 579 535 128
Total Result 55 580 536 129

Deadly Count Non-deadly Count Total

Count of ID 544 2180 2724
Inadequate Protecti 89 517 606
Solo 198 321 519
Stranded / Lost / O 48 268 316
Rappel Error 75 176 251
No Helmet 71 179 250
Exposure 54 187 241
Off-route 49 190 239
Inadequate Equipm 48 191 239
Visibility 46 189 235
Severe Weather 58 172 230
Fatigue 32 146 178
Late in Day 29 134 163
Climbing Alone 59 103 162
Object Dropped/Dis 21 140 161
Handhold/Foothold 18 127 145
Poor Position 33 108 141
Anchor Failure / Err 52 81 133
Crevasse / Moat / B 45 88 133
Avalanche 51 81 132
Large Group 25 101 126
Belay Error 12 114 126
No Backup or End K 25 98 123
Ascent Illness 11 96 107
Natural Rockfall 22 71 93
Crampon Issues 15 74 89
Run Out 13 71 84
Pendulum 12 68 80
Lowering Error 6 73 79
Glissading 7 66 73
Poor Cond/Seasonal 25 47 72
Ledge Fall 8 63 71
Miscommunication 9 60 69
Gear Broke 22 43 65
Rushed 8 55 63
Gym Climber 8 52 60
Party Separated 15 37 52
Late Start 9 43 52
Knot & Tie-in Error 16 35 51
Distracted 6 44 50
Cornice / Snow Brid 19 28 47
Non-Ascent Illness 9 36 45
Icefall / Serac / Ice 10 28 38
Ski-related 11 24 35
Crowds 5 25 30
Piton/Ice Screw 3 27 30
Inadequate Food/W 3 14 17
Wildlife 1 9 10
Bergschrund 2 5 7
Intoxicated 1 6 7
Gym / Artificial 4 4
arlier tabs did not include 50th factor, Bergschrund, as that was a subset of a broader category, Crevasse / Moat / Berschrun
s noted on previous pages, Solo and Unroped are similar factors, with a similar profile in this case for Deadly incidents. To av

Sum of Miscommunication Sum of Lowering Error Sum of Rappel Error

1
78 255 127
79 255 127

% of Total Deadly Most common factors (a

20% All Climbing Incidents
15% Inadequate Protection
38% --------> Solo
15% Stranded / Lost / Over
30% Rappel Error
28% No Helmet
22% Exposure
21% --------> Off-route
20% Inadequate Equipment
20% Visibility
25% Severe Weather
18% .
18%
36%
13%
12%
23% .
39%
34%
39%
20%
10%
20%
10%
24%
17%
15%
15%
8%
10%
35%
11%
13%
34%
13%
13%
29%
17%
31%
12%
40%
20%
26%
31%
17%
10%
18%
10%
29%
14%
0%
a broader category, Crevasse / Moat / Berschrund. The broader umbrella category would by definition "perform" better by
ilar profile in this case for Deadly incidents. To avoid overlap of these two similar factors, "Solo" was used for the analyses o

Sum of Inadequate Protection / Pulled Sum of Knot & Tie-in Error Sum of Ledge Fall
2
243 147 53
245 147 53

Count % Deadly
2,724 20%
606 15%
519 38%
316 15%
251 30%
250 28%
241 22%
239 21%
239 20%
235 20%
230 25%
d by definition "perform" better by appearing higher in lists, so nothing was lost in analyzing those lists without the sub-cate
s, "Solo" was used for the analyses on this page instead of both factors.

Sum of Inadequate Food/Water Sum of No Helmet Sum of Visibility Sum of Run Out
2
30 17 44 64
30 17 46 64
ng those lists without the sub-category.

Sum of Off-route Sum of Rushed Sum of Non-Ascent Illness Sum of Severe Weather
1 2 3
93 242 242 238
93 243 244 241
Sum of Exposure Sum of Poor Position Sum of Crevasse / Moat / Berschrund

38 47 7
38 47 7
Sum of Icefall / Serac / Ice Avalanche Sum of Cornice / Snow Bridge Collapse
1 2
134 134
135 136
Sum of Piton/Ice Screw Sum of Ascent Illness Sum of Crampon Issues Sum of Ski-related
13 3
1260 30 106 73
1273 30 109 73
Sum of Glissading Sum of Poor Cond/Seasonal Risk Sum of Avalanche Sum of Wildlife
3 2 2
220 141 72 232
223 143 72 234
Sum of Natural Rockfall Sum of Crowds Sum of Late in Day Sum of Late Start
1
11 84 251 167
11 84 252 167
Sum of Party Separated Sum of Gym / Artificial Sum of Gym Climber Sum of Fatigue
1
53 71 4 61
54 71 4 61
Sum of Large Group Sum of Object Dropped/Dislodged Sum of Handhold/Foothold Broke
1 2
180 50 161
181 50 163
Sum of No Backup or End Knot Sum of Gear Broke Sum of Intoxicated
1
52 123 65
52 124 65
Sum of Inadequate Equipment Sum of Anchor Failure / Error Sum of Stranded / Lost / Overdue
4
7 602 136
7 606 136
Sum of Belay Error Count of ID Sum of Bergschrund
20
325 2750 48
325 2770 48
Bouldering - all -
Minor - all -

Data
Sum of Pendulum Sum of Solo Sum of Climbing Alone Sum of Distracted
55 580 536 129

Factor Count of H&BI % of H&BI

Count of ID 558 100%
Inadequate Pro 179 32%
No Helmet 134 24%
Solo 103 18%
Off-route 54 10%
Rappel Error 53 9%
Object Dropp 40 7%
Exposure 39 7%
Late in Day 37 7%
Fatigue 37 7%
Inadequate E 37 7%
Belay Error 35 6%
Run Out 33 6%
No Backup or 33 6%
Climbing Alon 32 6%
Severe Weath 31 6%
Crevasse / Mo 31 6%
Anchor Failure 31 6%
Poor Position 29 5%
Natural Rockfa 28 5%
Stranded / Lo 28 5%
Visibility 27 5%
Handhold/Foo 26 5%
Large Group 24 4%
Pendulum 22 4%
Avalanche 21 4%
Ledge Fall 20 4%
Lowering Erro 19 3%
Rushed 19 3%
Miscommunica 15 3%
Glissading 15 3%
Ascent Illness 13 2%
Crampon Issu 12 2%
Poor Cond/Sea 12 2%
Icefall / Serac 11 2%
Gym Climber 11 2%
Gear Broke 11 2%
Knot & Tie-in 10 2%
Distracted 9 2%
Cornice / Sno 9 2%
Crowds 9 2%
Piton/Ice Scr 8 1%
Late Start 7 1%
Party Separat 7 1%
Inadequate F 4 1%
Ski-related 3 1%
Non-Ascent Ill 2 0%
Intoxicated 2 0%
Bergschrund 2 0%
Wildlife 1 0%
Gym / Artificial 0%
Sum of Miscommunication Sum of Lowering Error Sum of Rappel Error
79 255 127
Sum of Inadequate Protection / Pulled Sum of Knot & Tie-in Error Sum of Ledge Fall
245 147 53
Sum of Inadequate Food/Water Sum of No Helmet Sum of Visibility Sum of Run Out
30 17 46 64
Sum of Off-route Sum of Rushed Sum of Non-Ascent Illness Sum of Severe Weather
93 243 244 241
Sum of Exposure Sum of Poor Position Sum of Crevasse / Moat / Berschrund
38 47 7
Sum of Icefall / Serac / Ice Avalanche Sum of Cornice / Snow Bridge Collapse
135 136
Sum of Piton/Ice Screw Sum of Ascent Illness Sum of Crampon Issues Sum of Ski-related
1273 30 109 73
Sum of Glissading Sum of Poor Cond/Seasonal Risk Sum of Avalanche Sum of Wildlife
223 143 72 234
Sum of Natural Rockfall Sum of Crowds Sum of Late in Day Sum of Late Start
11 84 252 167
Sum of Party Separated Sum of Gym / Artificial Sum of Gym Climber Sum of Fatigue
54 71 4 61
Sum of Large Group Sum of Object Dropped/Dislodged Sum of Handhold/Foothold Broke
181 50 163
Sum of No Backup or End Knot Sum of Gear Broke Sum of Intoxicated
52 124 65
Sum of Inadequate Equipment Sum of Anchor Failure / Error Sum of Stranded / Lost / Overdue
7 606 136
Sum of Belay Error Sum of Bergschrund Count of ID
325 48 2770
Bouldering - all -
Non-climbing 1

Data
Sum of Pendulum Sum of Solo Sum of Climbing Alone Sum of Distracted
19 17 3

Sum of Pendulum 13 1%
Sum of Solo 327 26%
Sum of Climbing Alone 104 8%
Sum of Distracted 12 1%
Sum of Miscommunicatio 16 1%
Sum of Lowering Error 1 0%
Sum of Rappel Error 45 4%
Sum of Knot & Tie-in Erro 5 0%
Sum of Ledge Fall 11 1%
Sum of Inadequate Food/ 7 1%
Sum of No Helmet 58 5%
Sum of Visibility 145 12%
Sum of Run Out 10 1%
Sum of Off-route 120 10%
Sum of Rushed 22 2%
Sum of Non-Ascent Illness 41 3%
Sum of Severe Weather 175 14%
Sum of Exposure 194 16%
Sum of Poor Position 95 8%
Sum of Crevasse / Moat / 132 11%
Sum of Icefall / Serac / I 23 2%
Sum of Cornice / Snow Br 47 4%
Sum of Piton/Ice Screw 12 1%
Sum of Ascent Illness 107 9%
Sum of Crampon Issues 84 7%
Sum of Ski-related 33 3%
Sum of Glissading 72 6%
Sum of Poor Cond/Seasona 62 5%
Sum of Avalanche 130 10%
Sum of Wildlife 1 0%
Sum of Natural Rockfall 63 5%
Sum of Crowds 13 1%
Sum of Late in Day 68 5%
Sum of Late Start 27 2%
Sum of Party Separated 47 4%
Sum of Gym / Artificial 0%
Sum of Gym Climber 8 1%
Sum of Fatigue 106 9%
Sum of Large Group 90 7%
Sum of Object Dropped/D 50 4%
Sum of Handhold/Foothol 41 3%
Sum of No Backup or End 8 1%
Sum of Gear Broke 14 1%
Sum of Intoxicated 1 0%
Sum of Inadequate Equip 154 12%
Sum of Anchor Failure / E 34 3%
Sum of Stranded / Lost / 167 13%
Sum of Belay Error 24 2%
Count of ID 1245 100%
Sum of Inadequate Protect 119 10%
Sum of Miscommunication Sum of Lowering Error Sum of Rappel Error
4 1
Sum of Knot & Tie-in Error Sum of Ledge Fall Sum of Inadequate Food/Water Sum of No Helmet
2 1
Sum of Visibility Sum of Run Out Sum of Off-route Sum of Rushed Sum of Non-Ascent Illness
1 1 4 3
Sum of Severe Weather Sum of Exposure Sum of Poor Position
6 12
Sum of Crevasse / Moat / Berschrund Sum of Icefall / Serac / Ice Avalanche
2
Sum of Cornice / Snow Bridge Collapse Sum of Piton/Ice Screw Sum of Ascent Illness
4 28
Sum of Crampon Issues Sum of Ski-related Sum of Glissading Sum of Poor Cond/Seasonal Risk
2 2
Sum of Avalanche Sum of Wildlife Sum of Natural Rockfall Sum of Crowds Sum of Late in Day
4 1 2
Sum of Late Start Sum of Party Separated Sum of Gym / Artificial Sum of Gym Climber
4 2
Sum of Fatigue Sum of Large Group Sum of Object Dropped/Dislodged
1 3
Sum of Handhold/Foothold Broke Sum of No Backup or End Knot Sum of Gear Broke
2 1 1
Sum of Intoxicated Sum of Inadequate Equipment Sum of Anchor Failure / Error
Sum of Stranded / Lost / Overdue Sum of Belay Error Count of ID
3 9 46
Sum of Inadequate Protection / Pulled
6
 Sport % All ex-Sport % Diff vs. All-ex-Sport
Sum of Pend 3 2% Sum of Pend 64 5% -3%
Sum of Solo 5 3% Sum of Solo 187 14% -11%
Sum of Climb 2 1% Sum of Climb 56 4% -3%
Sum of Distra 12 7% Sum of Distra 26 2% 5%
Sum of Misco 14 8% Sum of Misco 39 3% 5%
Sum of Loweri 28 16% Sum of Loweri 50 4% 13%
Sum of Rappel 24 14% Sum of Rappel 182 14% 0%
Sum of Inadeq 26 15% Sum of Inadeq 461 35% -20%
Sum of Knot & 8 5% Sum of Knot & 38 3% 2%
Sum of Ledge 5 3% Sum of Ledge 55 4% -1%
Sum of Inadequate Food/W 0% Sum of Inade 10 1% -1%
Sum of No He 20 12% Sum of No He 172 13% -1%
Sum of Visibil 1 1% Sum of Visibil 89 7% -6%
Sum of Run O 8 5% Sum of Run O 66 5% 0%
Sum of Off-ro 6 4% Sum of Off-ro 113 9% -5%
Sum of Rushe 3 2% Sum of Rushe 38 3% -1%
Sum of Non-As 1 1% Sum of Non-As 3 0% 0%
Sum of Sever 5 3% Sum of Sever 50 4% -1%
Sum of Expos 1 1% Sum of Expos 46 4% -3%
Sum of Poor P 6 4% Sum of Poor P 40 3% 0%
Sum of Crevasse / Moat / 0% Sum of Crevas 1 0% 0%
Sum of Icefall / Serac / Ice 0% Sum of Icefall 15 1% -1%
Sum of Cornice / Snow Brid 0% Sum of Cornice / Snow Brid 0% 0%
Sum of Piton/Ice Screw 0% Sum of Piton/ 18 1% -1%
Sum of Ascent Illness 0% Sum of Ascent Illness 0% 0%
Sum of Crampon Issues 0% Sum of Cramp 5 0% 0%
Sum of Ski-related 0% Sum of Ski-re 2 0% 0%
Sum of Glissading 0% Sum of Glissa 1 0% 0%
Sum of Poor Cond/Seasonal 0% Sum of Poor 10 1% -1%
Sum of Avalanche 0% Sum of Avala 2 0% 0%
Sum of Wildli 1 1% Sum of Wildli 8 1% 0%
Sum of Natura 4 2% Sum of Natura 26 2% 0%
Sum of Crowd 4 2% Sum of Crowd 13 1% 1%
Sum of Late i 8 5% Sum of Late i 87 7% -2%
Sum of Late S 2 1% Sum of Late S 23 2% -1%
Sum of Party Separated 0% Sum of Party 5 0% 0%
Sum of Gym / A 1 1% Sum of Gym / A 3 0% 0%
Sum of Gym C 13 8% Sum of Gym C 39 3% 5%
Sum of Fatigu 13 8% Sum of Fatigu 59 5% 3%
Sum of Large 5 3% Sum of Large 31 2% 1%
Sum of Objec 9 5% Sum of Objec 102 8% -2%
Sum of Handh 4 2% Sum of Handh 100 8% -5%
Sum of No Ba 29 17% Sum of No Ba 86 7% 10%
Sum of Gear 10 6% Sum of Gear 41 3% 3%
Sum of Intoxicated 0% Sum of Intoxi 6 0% 0%
Sum of Inade 6 4% Sum of Inade 79 6% -3%
Sum of Anchor 11 6% Sum of Anchor 88 7% 0%
Sum of Strand 5 3% Sum of Strand 144 11% -8%
Sum of Belay 29 17% Sum of Belay 73 6% 11%
Count of ID 170 100% Count of ID 1309 100% 0%
ff vs. All-ex-Sport TR % All-ex-TR % Diff vs. All-ex-TR
Sum of Pend 2 2% Sum of Pend 65 5% -2%
Sum of Solo 10 12% Sum of Solo 182 13% -1%
Sum of Climb 1 1% Sum of Climb 57 4% -3%
Sum of Distra 5 6% Sum of Distra 33 2% 3%
Sum of Misco 11 13% Sum of Misco 42 3% 10%
Sum of Loweri 15 17% Sum of Loweri 63 5% 13%
Sum of Rappel 9 10% Sum of Rappel 197 14% -4%
Sum of Inadeq 14 16% Sum of Inadeq 473 34% -18%
Sum of Knot & 13 15% Sum of Knot & 33 2% 13%
Sum of Ledge 2 2% Sum of Ledge 58 4% -2%
Sum of Inadequate Food/W 0% Sum of Inade 10 1% -1%
Sum of No He 17 20% Sum of No He 175 13% 7%
Sum of Visibil 3 3% Sum of Visibil 87 6% -3%
Sum of Run Out 0% Sum of Run O 74 5% -5%
Sum of Off-ro 2 2% Sum of Off-ro 117 8% -6%
Sum of Rushe 4 5% Sum of Rushe 37 3% 2%
Sum of Non-As 1 1% Sum of Non-As 3 0% 1%
Sum of Sever 1 1% Sum of Sever 54 4% -3%
Sum of Exposure 0% Sum of Expos 47 3% -3%
Sum of Poor P 1 1% Sum of Poor P 45 3% -2%
Sum of Crevasse / Moat / 0% Sum of Crevas 1 0% 0%
Sum of Icefall / Serac / Ice 0% Sum of Icefall 15 1% -1%
Sum of Cornice / Snow Brid 0% Sum of Cornice / Snow Brid 0% 0%
Sum of Piton/Ice Screw 0% Sum of Piton/ 18 1% -1%
Sum of Ascent Illness 0% Sum of Ascent Illness 0% 0%
Sum of Cramp 1 1% Sum of Cramp 4 0% 1%
Sum of Ski-related 0% Sum of Ski-re 2 0% 0%
Sum of Glissading 0% Sum of Glissa 1 0% 0%
Sum of Poor Cond/Seasonal 0% Sum of Poor 10 1% -1%
Sum of Avalanche 0% Sum of Avala 2 0% 0%
Sum of Wildlife 0% Sum of Wildli 9 1% -1%
Sum of Natural Rockfall 0% Sum of Natura 30 2% -2%
Sum of Crowd 1 1% Sum of Crowd 16 1% 0%
Sum of Late i 5 6% Sum of Late i 90 6% -1%
Sum of Late Start 0% Sum of Late S 25 2% -2%
Sum of Party Separated 0% Sum of Party 5 0% 0%
Sum of Gym / Artificial 0% Sum of Gym / A 4 0% 0%
Sum of Gym C 4 5% Sum of Gym C 48 3% 1%
Sum of Fatigu 3 3% Sum of Fatigu 69 5% -1%
Sum of Large 5 6% Sum of Large 31 2% 4%
Sum of Objec 8 9% Sum of Objec 103 7% 2%
Sum of Handh 4 5% Sum of Handh 100 7% -3%
Sum of No Ba 10 12% Sum of No Ba 105 8% 4%
Sum of Gear 2 2% Sum of Gear 49 4% -1%
Sum of Intoxi 1 1% Sum of Intoxi 5 0% 1%
Sum of Inade 4 5% Sum of Inade 81 6% -1%
Sum of Anchor 19 22% Sum of Anchor 80 6% 16%
Sum of Stranded / Lost / 0% Sum of Strand 149 11% -11%
Sum of Belay 9 10% Sum of Belay 93 7% 4%
Count of ID 86 100% Count of ID 1393 100% 0%
ff vs. All-ex-TR Trad % All ex-Trad % Diff vs. All-ex-Trad
Sum of Pend 56 7% Sum of Pend 11 2% 5%
Sum of Solo 24 3% Sum of Solo 168 25% -22%
Sum of Climb 7 1% Sum of Climb 51 8% -7%
Sum of Distra 16 2% Sum of Distra 22 3% -1%
Sum of Misco 24 3% Sum of Misco 29 4% -1%
Sum of Loweri 31 4% Sum of Loweri 47 7% -3%
Sum of Rappel 95 12% Sum of Rappel 111 16% -5%
Sum of Inadeq 390 49% Sum of Inadeq 97 14% 34%
Sum of Knot & 13 2% Sum of Knot & 33 5% -3%
Sum of Ledge 45 6% Sum of Ledge 15 2% 3%
Sum of Inade 10 1% Sum of Inadequate Food/W 0% 1%
Sum of No He 116 14% Sum of No He 76 11% 3%
Sum of Visibil 67 8% Sum of Visibil 23 3% 5%
Sum of Run O 57 7% Sum of Run O 17 3% 5%
Sum of Off-ro 90 11% Sum of Off-ro 29 4% 7%
Sum of Rushe 26 3% Sum of Rushe 15 2% 1%
Sum of Non-As 1 0% Sum of Non-As 3 0% 0%
Sum of Sever 36 4% Sum of Sever 19 3% 2%
Sum of Expos 34 4% Sum of Expos 13 2% 2%
Sum of Poor P 19 2% Sum of Poor P 27 4% -2%
Sum of Crevasse / Moat / 0% Sum of Crevas 1 0% 0%
Sum of Icefall / Serac / Ice 0% Sum of Icefall 15 2% -2%
Sum of Cornice / Snow Brid 0% Sum of Cornice / Snow Brid 0% 0%
Sum of Piton/ 14 2% Sum of Piton/ 4 1% 1%
Sum of Ascent Illness 0% Sum of Ascent Illness 0% 0%
Sum of Crampon Issues 0% Sum of Cramp 5 1% -1%
Sum of Ski-related 0% Sum of Ski-re 2 0% 0%
Sum of Glissading 0% Sum of Glissa 1 0% 0%
Sum of Poor 3 0% Sum of Poor 7 1% -1%
Sum of Avalanche 0% Sum of Avala 2 0% 0%
Sum of Wildli 5 1% Sum of Wildli 4 1% 0%
Sum of Natura 14 2% Sum of Natura 16 2% -1%
Sum of Crowd 10 1% Sum of Crowd 7 1% 0%
Sum of Late i 63 8% Sum of Late i 32 5% 3%
Sum of Late S 20 2% Sum of Late S 5 1% 2%
Sum of Party 2 0% Sum of Party 3 0% 0%
Sum of Gym / A 1 0% Sum of Gym / A 3 0% 0%
Sum of Gym C 31 4% Sum of Gym C 21 3% 1%
Sum of Fatigu 47 6% Sum of Fatigu 25 4% 2%
Sum of Large 11 1% Sum of Large 25 4% -2%
Sum of Objec 58 7% Sum of Objec 53 8% -1%
Sum of Handh 63 8% Sum of Handh 41 6% 2%
Sum of No Ba 49 6% Sum of No Ba 66 10% -4%
Sum of Gear 25 3% Sum of Gear 26 4% -1%
Sum of Intoxi 2 0% Sum of Intoxi 4 1% 0%
Sum of Inade 46 6% Sum of Inade 39 6% 0%
Sum of Anchor 51 6% Sum of Anchor 48 7% -1%
Sum of Strand 92 11% Sum of Strand 57 8% 3%
Sum of Belay 45 6% Sum of Belay 57 8% -3%
Count of ID 804 100% Count of ID 675 100% 0%
ff vs. All-ex-Trad Sport % Diff vs. All-ex-Sport TR % Diff vs. All-ex-TR
Count of ID 100% 0% Count of ID 100% 0%
Sum of Inadeq 15% -20% Sum of Inadeq 16% -18%
Sum of Solo 3% -11% Sum of Solo 12% -1%
Sum of Rappel 14% 0% Sum of Rappel 10% -4%
Sum of No He 12% -1% Sum of No He 20% 7%
Sum of Strand 3% -8% Sum of Strand 0% -11%
Sum of Off-ro 4% -5% Sum of Off-ro 2% -6%
Sum of Objec 5% -2% Sum of Objec 9% 2%
Sum of Handh 2% -5% Sum of Handh 5% -3%
Sum of Visibil 1% -6% Sum of Visibil 3% -3%
Sum of Anchor 6% 0% Sum of Anchor 22% 16%
Sum of Late i 5% -2% Sum of Late i 6% -1%
Sum of No Ba 17% 10% Sum of No Ba 12% 4%
Sum of Inade 4% -3% Sum of Inade 5% -1%
Sum of Belay 17% 11% Sum of Belay 10% 4%
Sum of Run O 5% 0% Sum of Run O 0% -5%
Sum of Pend 2% -3% Sum of Pend 2% -2%
Sum of Fatigu 8% 3% Sum of Fatigu 3% -1%
Sum of Climb 1% -3% Sum of Climb 1% -3%
Sum of Ledge 3% -1% Sum of Ledge 2% -2%
Sum of Loweri 16% 13% Sum of Loweri 17% 13%
Sum of Sever 3% -1% Sum of Sever 1% -3%
Sum of Expos 1% -3% Sum of Expos 0% -3%
Sum of Gear 6% 3% Sum of Gear 2% -1%
Sum of Poor P 4% 0% Sum of Poor P 1% -2%
Sum of Misco 8% 5% Sum of Misco 13% 10%
Sum of Gym C 8% 5% Sum of Gym C 5% 1%
Sum of Knot & 5% 2% Sum of Knot & 15% 13%
Sum of Rushe 2% -1% Sum of Rushe 5% 2%
Sum of Large 3% 1% Sum of Large 6% 4%
Sum of Distra 7% 5% Sum of Distra 6% 3%
Sum of Natura 2% 0% Sum of Natura 0% -2%
Sum of Late S 1% -1% Sum of Late S 0% -2%
Sum of Piton/ 0% -1% Sum of Piton/ 0% -1%
Sum of Icefall 0% -1% Sum of Icefall 0% -1%
Sum of Crowd 2% 1% Sum of Crowd 1% 0%
Sum of Inade 0% -1% Sum of Inade 0% -1%
Sum of Poor 0% -1% Sum of Poor 0% -1%
Sum of Wildli 1% 0% Sum of Wildli 0% -1%
Sum of Intoxi 0% 0% Sum of Intoxi 1% 1%
Sum of Cramp 0% 0% Sum of Cramp 1% 1%
Sum of Party 0% 0% Sum of Party 0% 0%
Sum of Non-As 1% 0% Sum of Non-As 1% 1%
Sum of Gym / A 1% 0% Sum of Gym / A 0% 0%
Sum of Ski-re 0% 0% Sum of Ski-re 0% 0%
Sum of Avala 0% 0% Sum of Avala 0% 0%
Sum of Crevas 0% 0% Sum of Crevas 0% 0%
Sum of Glissa 0% 0% Sum of Glissa 0% 0%
Sum of Cornic 0% 0% Sum of Cornic 0% 0%
Sum of Ascent 0% 0% Sum of Ascent 0% 0%
ff vs. All-ex-TR Trad % Diff vs. All-ex-Trad
Count of ID 100% 0%
Sum of Inadeq 49% 34%
Sum of Solo 3% -22%
Sum of Rappel 12% -5%
Sum of No He 14% 3%
Sum of Strand 11% 3%
Sum of Off-ro 11% 7%
Sum of Objec 7% -1%
Sum of Handh 8% 2%
Sum of Visibil 8% 5%
Sum of Anchor 6% -1%
Sum of Late i 8% 3%
Sum of No Bac 6% -4%
Sum of Inade 6% 0%
Sum of Belay 6% -3%
Sum of Run O 7% 5%
Sum of Pendu 7% 5%
Sum of Fatigu 6% 2%
Sum of Climbi 1% -7%
Sum of Ledge 6% 3%
Sum of Loweri 4% -3%
Sum of Sever 4% 2%
Sum of Expos 4% 2%
Sum of Gear 3% -1%
Sum of Poor P 2% -2%
Sum of Misco 3% -1%
Sum of Gym C 4% 1%
Sum of Knot & 2% -3%
Sum of Rushe 3% 1%
Sum of Large 1% -2%
Sum of Distra 2% -1%
Sum of Natura 2% -1%
Sum of Late St 2% 2%
Sum of Piton/ 2% 1%
Sum of Icefall 0% -2%
Sum of Crowd 1% 0%
Sum of Inade 1% 1%
Sum of Poor C 0% -1%
Sum of Wildli 1% 0%
Sum of Intoxi 0% 0%
Sum of Cramp 0% -1%
Sum of Party 0% 0%
Sum of Non-As 0% 0%
Sum of Gym / A 0% 0%
Sum of Ski-rel 0% 0%
Sum of Avala 0% 0%
Sum of Crevas 0% 0%
Sum of Glissa 0% 0%
Sum of Cornic 0% 0%
Sum of Ascent 0% 0%