Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Classic
Paul Newman photographed
by David Sutton, 1968
summer
style
Tips and tricks for
looking slick from
Paul Newman,
JFK, Miles Davis,
Steve McQueen
and Muhammad Ali
+
Why are all our style
heroes six feet under?
By Mick Brown
Inside
How can I be a What footballers
hipster when I dont arent telling us
have any hips? By Ross Raisin
By Will Self
TV cops: an
What to wear in 2017 investigation
By Jeremy Langmead By Dan Davies
Space rock:
the ultimate
status symbol
By George Pendle
Newsstand
Cover photograph:
PaulNewman, 1968
Subscribers
Cover photograph:
PaulNewman, 1963
ICONS OF STYLE
P102
Paul Newman leads
ahost of heroes
JFK, Steve McQueen,
Robert Redford and
many more whose
innate stylishness
hasnever faded
102
CONTENTS
SUBSCRIBE FASHION
ANY COLOUR NOT BUSINESS
YOU WANT AS USUAL
If you want a limited-
P88 P134
edition version of
as long as its black For an evershifting
Esquirewith a unique
cover delivered to your or white. Midsummer world, here are the
door, call +44 844 322 monochrome nds simple, impeccably
1762 andquote afan in godfather of cut suits you can
reference 1EQ11168 grime, Wiley count on
15
CONTENTS CONTRIBUTORS
Dan
Davies
REGULARS To preview new comedy
Mindhorn, Davies spent
weeks watching vintage
cop shows. If La La Land
WILL SELF isa love letter to the
P31 goldenage of Hollywood,
This month, the award-winning he says, Mindhorn is
writer lauds hips, but laments his acharge sheet of
own lifelong lack thereof crimescommitted
byThe Sweeney,
The Professionals and
Bergerac. Davies is author
OBJECT OF DESIRE of the award-winning In
P154
Plain Sight: The Life and
A classic cricket jumper from Lies of Jimmy Savile and
Kent& Curwen, hit for six by online editor-in-chief at
David Beckham Christies auction house.
Russell
Norman
Once the clocks spring
forward, I think of lighter
dishes and the wonderful,
vibrant ingredients of the
warmer seasons, explains
our food columnist, who is
50
also the boss of the Polpo
restaurant empire. My
STYLE nioise salad is a cracking
P35 summer staple, one I enjoy
Luxurious leather luggage Made style; o-roading the new Land
on a sunny day in the
garden, with a cold glass of
in Italy; Jeremy Langmead on Rover Discovery SD4 HSE in
Provence ros. Can you use
provocative 2017 designs; Russell Utah; Audemars Piguets Royal
55 tinned tuna? Yes you can!
Norman assembles his denitive Oak Perpetual Calendar now (Geddit?) Norman is
salade nioise; a total trimming comes in black ceramic; how to working on his next book,
and cleansing post-winter regime; Trump a trip to Washington DC; My Venetian Kitchen.
the ve best cameras to pack for 10-point summer manifesto;
travel and holidays; Budapest, lighter leather for hotter weather;
Naples, Dubrovnik three the woody notes ruling summer;
Ash
hotspots and how to hit them in shopping news and more Reynolds
It was a pleasure to
photograph Wiley, the
CULTURE Australian photographer
P73 says of his shoot with the
Stephen Shore retro photographic grime star. The idea
compendium; Feist brings us started from old Avedon
Pleasure; sibling rivalry taken to portraits shot on a white
comedic high; BNQT are this background, the perfect
years supergroup; the photo way to bring out Wileys
character. Hes a true gent
Will Bunce | Stephen Shore | Antosh Sergiew
18
CONTENTS CONTRIBUTORS
Jeremy
Langmead
FEATURES The fact fashion brings
together big business and
the truly bonkers and
generates billions is one
NOT SO SQUARE ANY MORE ofthe many reasons
P80 Iloveit, says our regular
Suddenly, going out for dinner style columnist, who runs
(orlunch or breakfast) in Londons us through the wackier
City really is the business trends hitting shops now.
There are waiting lists for
cropped bomber jackets
with shoulders so huge
ITS TRUTH TIME they have to be parked in
P96 hangars. Good times.
Mindhorn is the latest in a lengthy Langmead is Mr Porter
lineup of maverick British TV cops brand and content director
its a genre with a lot of previous and editor of Times Luxx.
Seth
Armstrong
football failing to face its demons rush among tech billionaires MrPorter and Jay Z.
20
Subscribe to
Alex Bilmes
editor-in-chief
editors-at-large
Giles Coren Andrew OHagan Will Self
esquire.co.uk
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Sam Parker Nick Pope
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tim adams / ben anderson / tom barber / richard benson / kevin braddock
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tim lewis / kevin maher / ben mitchell / philip norman
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May 2017
EDITORS
Still, all that aside, Paul Newman was a snappy dresser, and so
was Steve McQueen, and you would benet from learning some
of the lessons they taught the rest of us in how to go about what
to wear, and how to wear it. In the case of this issue: whatto wear
28
Will Self
SELF
EXAMINATION
Each month, Will Self evaluates a signicant part of our anatomy. Here, he
deduces that without dened, functioning hips a man can never be, er, hip
People often stop me in the street and ask: How do you live without any hips?
Illustrations by Joe McKendry
They cannot ignore my handicap, so disturbing is the sight of a man either with
his jeans halfway down his arse, or else giving a little jump to hoik them up
31
Will Self
As soon as I realised my sons shared my aiction, I told them both: you will
always be pariahs, shunned by hipped men and shamed by still hipper women.
The only known therapy for hiplessness, my little stickmen, is to cultivate hipness
32
EL SP
AV E
CI
T
AL
20
Tour de
17
forza
Italian craft matched with
German precision in new
luxury luggage range
36
Style Food
SALADE NIOISE
Russell Norman assembles an authentic Mediterranean treat, the perfect summer lunch
There is a moment in the 1987 lm scene today in the UK. What used to Soho and Shoreditch a few years back.
Withnail & I when Danny the drug be cutting edge is now commonplace, Now theyre everywhere. Theyre even
dealer, lamenting the end of what was once trendy now seems insome McDonalds, man.
Salad days:
theSixties, captures the sentiment tired. Take those carbon-lament The food trend of recent years that
Russell Normans
perfectly: Theyre selling hippie wigs squirrel-cage lightbulbs that started definitive salade has started to feel ubiquitous and
in Woolworths, man. I often feel this appearing in independent, folksy, nioise is summer bandwagonish is clean eating.
way when I think about the restaurant hole-in-the-wall restaurants around on a plate Itschampions have since disowned
38
SEARED TUNA IS JUST WRONG.
ITMUST BE MADE WITH TINNED
the phrase, however, distancing Missouri River in 1865 but tins
themselves from what was fast recovered from the wreck and opened
becoming a movement. The supposed in 1974 were declared perfectly safe
science on which that philosophy was toconsume.)
based has been largely discredited Which brings me to this months
and its detractors have since dish: salade nioise. In keeping with
delighted in their schadenfreude. allmy recipes this year, its aclassic
I have always been suspicious of and, as with all classics, you dont mess
food trends, believing that, ultimately, it about. I have eaten this in fancy-
we are much happier with abowl pants restaurants where the chef has
SALADE NIOISE
ofoxtail soup and afew slices of carefully seared a slab of expensive Serves four
buttered bread. I have even, on tuna and artfully balanced it on
occasion, and to the horror of my wife themeagre salad beneath. Thats just
and kids, been known toindulge in wrong, Im afraid. Itmust be prepared
Ingredients
tinned ravioli on toast. with tinned tuna. Additionally,
itshould be made with an excellent, A small handful of delicate, green salad leaves
Now, as long as it doesnt represent
20 small ripe tomatoes, halved
your entire culinary repertoire, theres freshly prepared vinaigrette and, Yes you can:
250g French beans, trimmed
nothing wrong with tinned food. Its whilegenerous on other ingredients, tinned tuna,
50g black olives, pitted
below, among the
quick, its convenient, it takes up little light onthe leaves. 1 large cucumber, peeled, deseeded, chopped
other ingredients,
larder space, and its perfect for Russell Norman is the founder of Polpo 200g tinned tuna in oil, drained
is not only
stockpiling in the event of a zombie and Spuntino; 50g tinned anchovies, drained and separated
acceptable to use
apocalypse. When you look at the Instagram: @russell_norman; 6 small free-range eggs
Russell Norman
A handful of cooked new potatoes, halved
origins of preserving food in cans, its russellnorman.net insists on it
Small handful flat parsley, chopped
almost miraculous. The technique
was rst perfected in 1809 by Nicolas
Appert, a French chef, confectioner For the dressing
and distiller. 3 tbsps extra virgin olive oil
For around 50 years, no one really 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 tsps Dijon mustard
knew why tinned food worked, just
Half a garlic clove, extremely finely chopped
that it did. Louis Pasteur nally Pinch of caster sugar
solved the mystery in the 1860s by Pinch of flaky sea salt
proving that the canning process Twist of black pepper
creates a sterile environment where
microbes cant thrive. (The longest Method
recorded period between canning
1. Put dressing ingredients into a clean jam jar
andeating is 109 years. The with a tightly fitting lid. Shake jar vigorously until
steamboat Bertrand sank on the dressing has emulsified. Set aside.
Advanced Night
Repair Eye Serum
byEste Lauder
SPECI
EL
A
T R AV
2017
44
SNAP CHAT
2 The five best cameras for summer:
dont leave home without yours
Dont go o
Green aviator sunglasses,
180, by Ray-Ban.
Black leather bag, 1,680,
by William & Son.
EL SPE
AV
CI
TR
AL
2017
Budapest
CI
extraordinary panoramic views.
AL
villa-dubrovnik.hr
20
17
Dubrovnik
48
Style Fashion
SPEC
Green cotton blazer, 845, EL I
AL
T R AV
byDolce & Gabbana.
Black/white checked
cotton shirt, 65, by
Topman Design.
2017
Brushed steel/brown
leather MW50
headphones, 400, by Naples
Master & Dynamic.
Black polycarbonate trolley
The brooding southern Italian
case, 360, by Victorinox.
Black/brown calfskin port city sprawls in the shadow
leather-canvas technical of Mount Vesuvius and is as
sandals, 495, by Herms. famous for inventing pizza
Facial sun care cream asfor the Camorra. Its only
SPF30, 140, by Sisley. ashort, scenic drive away from
Orange cotton beach
the azure Amal Coast well
towel, 305, by Herms.
Brown aviator sunglasses, worth extending your stay for.
125, by Ray-Ban. And, of course, it is a menswear
Black/white checked Mecca home to the famous
cottonshorts, 40, and distinctive Neapolitan style
byTopmanDesign as exemplied by Rubinacci
and others. (Make a pilgrimage
while youre there.)
50
Lets face it, the most challenging
conditions most SUVs face in their
CI
TR
AL
and more self-condent than its wetook one tothe wilds of Utah
original boxy self that transcends tosee for ourselves. Not many cars
2017 these associations. could have got into this particular
It comes with the knowledge that parking spot. And however rarely
should the situation ever arise, and you might end up there, its nice to
thanks to its tech-heavy Terrain know you can. Inthis type of Disco,
theres never apanic.
landrover.co.uk
52
Style Cars
Audemars Piguet has set the bar high each one, ve times longer than
ESQUIRE
APPROVES
Black ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual
Calendar on black ceramic bracelet,
79,200, by Audemars Piguet
audemarspiguet.com
WASHINGTON AV
CI
TR
AL
DC 2017
SEE LUNCH
Fans of House of Cards and the Underwoods The Smithsonian Institution A touch of DF (Distrito Federal as
Machiavellian machinations have long enjoyed the (founded by a supremely generous Mexicans call their capital) in DC,
portrayal of Washington DC as a snake pit of deceit donation from an Englishman in ElCentro DF serves high-quality
andlies. But with Donald Trump as president, truth just 1829) consists of 19 museums (17 of Mexican food (no Tex-Mex nonsense)
got way, way stranger than ction. The good news for which are in DC) so whether African in the heart of Georgetown. One
visitors to the American capital is having The Donald art or natural history, theres fusion exception: for a hungover
inpower means the intrigue and powerplays that create amuseum for all. If you dreamt of brunch try the Mexican Benedict
DCs vibrant energy have reached heights not seen since being a spaceman, dont go beyond ofpoached eggs, pork carnitas, salsa
the Clinton cigar era. My advice would be to go now, the National Air and Space Museum verde and black beans in the $35
while its the hub of world news, fake or not. housing the original Wright bottomless brunch. With a Bloody
Tom Barber is a founder of the award-winning travel (Brothers) Flyer from 1903 and one Maria (tequila not vodka), naturally.
Getty
56
Style Travel
SHOP
Regulars trust the new owner DRINK
ofKramerbooks & Afterwords As Vladimir Putin seems the
wont damage the DNA of this onlyworld leader Trump wants
40-year-old institution that to cosy up to, the longstanding
doubles as acaf and triples Russia House restaurant/bar
asone of the citys best pick-up isback on the radar. Dodge
joints. Adopt a faintly intellectual thefood and go straight up to the
appearance, browse the Tsars Bar for any of its several
labyrinthine bookshelves and hundred splendid vodkas.
strike up conversation with russiahouselounge.com
bright young things interning
onCapitolHill. kramers.com
WHEN IN
Watch acks and hacks dish
PARTY thedirt over a Trumpy Sour
This city is not big on clubbing cocktail (Knob Creek whiskey,
asyou know it, but the king of lemon, honey, thyme) in
the hillamong those that there theappropriately named O the
are is Eighteenth Street Lounge. Record bar at the Hay-Adams
Face control on the door is Hotel, a stones throw from the
notoriously severe but make White House. This bars motto?
thegrade (which you will, The place to be seen and not
undoubtedly) and youll be heard. hayadams.com
rubbing shoulders with hipsters,
journalists, Wasp congressmen
and minor league lobbyist/ WHY NOW?
entourage-types enjoying the Because given the direction
nest DJs in DC. On the ofTrumps travel plans,
subjectof hot DJs, ESL was the anyonewhosever ordered
launchpad of music collective shish tawook inaLebanese
Thievery Corporation. restaurant might bebanned
eighteenthstreetlounge.com from the US at some point.
57
Style Fashion
EL SPE
AV
CI
TR
AL
SUMMER 2017 MANIFESTO 2017
Ten improving style principles every man should adopt now the outdoors beckons
6. BIN THE
FLIP-FLOPS
Weve never been a fan of
flip-flops in the city. No one
looks at your blackened
feet and thinks, That guys
cool. If you must, go for
bold technical sandals.
Multicoloured nylon
technical sandal, 60,
byCamper
SPRING WATCH: THREE SPECIES TO OBSERVE COMING OUT OF HIBERNATION AT THIS TIME OF YEAR
59
Style Fashion
When the
heat is on
Keep your cool in
abreathable bomber
ALTERNATIVE
ROOTS
OUT OF THE WOODS
A quartet of Acqua di Parma branches out with a fresh, ebony-toned scent
exceptional
wood-note
fragrances
OAK
Dry and slightly bitter, oak
is masculine and intriguing.
Buy: Miel de bois by
SergeLutens; 170/75ml
ESQUIRE
APPROVES
Colonia Ebano
by Acqua di Parma;
220/180ml, available
MAHOGANY atHarrods
Rich, nose filling mahogany
is a spicier scent option.
Buy: Boss Bottled by
HugoBoss; 45/50ml
BIRCH
Fresh, green and
spring-like, birch has
abrighter woody note.
Buy: Aventus by Creed;
250/120ml
Hearst Studios | See Stockists page for details
PINE Woody notes of cedar and are plenty of other wood notes ebony at its heart, and the scent
Quality pine oil smells deep sandalwood are the core of just waiting to be tapped. is as warm and rich as the wood.
and resinous (but beware
many mens fragrances thanks TakeItalian fragrance creator Balanced with soft honey and
the Christmassy overtone).
Buy: Pour Homme to the resinous scents found in Acquadi Parmas latest release, bright vetiver, this addition to
EssenceAromatique by their oils. Asolfactorily pleasing Colonia Ebano. Inspired by the the Acqua di Parma stable is
BottegaVeneta; 66/90ml as these elements may be, there cabinet-makers of Milan, it has agreat trans-seasonal option.
CHEANEY STORE
New boots on the ground in CoventGarden
Your month
in menswear
Northampton shoemaker cultivates
the Garden, watchmaker shows SWATCH SKIN
some Skin, ace knitwear from the Minimalist watches with maximum impact
mod squad, custom-made holiday
Now that Nineties fashion acid washes, are, of course, Swiss-made guaranteeing the
totes, the suit with something to prints, sportswear etc is trendy again, horological chops to back up the pared-back
declare and more asuitably retro watch is also called for. The new style. You wont go wrong with asimple black
40mm Swatch Skin watches are simple, bright and white motif, and we love the Seventies chic
and exceptionally thin (hence the name), and of the Skinmesh model. swatch.com
Black Skinnoir watch, 76; silver-coloured 76; silver-coloured Skinsteps watch, 86,
Skinmesh watch, 80; black Skinnight watch, allby Swatch
PRETTY GREEN
XJOHN SMEDLEY
Mod-style knitted tops gonna live forever
Founded in 2009 by Oasis singer Liam Gallagher,
Pretty Green has been tied into Britains music
scene ever since. Collaborating with John
Smedley for an SS 17 collection makes sense, as
the knitwear specialist has dressed The Beatles,
Small Faces, The Who and The Jam right up to
Britpop stars like Blur and Oasis. Standouts
among the mod-influenced pieces are the
striped knit polo shirt in white, brown and black,
and the black-and-white striped jumper, both
handmade at Smedleys Derbyshire factory.
prettygreen.com; johnsmedley.com
White/brown/black wool polo shirt, 135; black/
white wool jumper, 150; black/white wool shirt,
175, all by Pretty Green x John Smedley
67
Style News
ORLEBAR BROWN
XTUMI
Bags of style on the beach
Beyond its fine swimwear, Orlebar Brown
has expanded to offer a wider resort
collection. The British brands penchant
for collaboration continues in its creation
of beach-ready tote bags with luggage
giant Tumi. Our pick is the navy edition
incotton and linen finished with leather,
but if you opted for the photo-printed
version, we wouldnt blame you either.
Our ethos is around celebrating travel,
says OB founder Adam Brown, and
Tumiis an expert in this field with a clear
commitment to innovation. It has been
awonderful project.
orlebarbrown.com; tumi.com
Navy/cream cotton-linen-leather tote bag;
navy cotton-linen-leather photo-printed tote
bag, 345 each, by Orlebar Brown x Tumi
COS ANNIVERSARY
COLLECTION
Brand marks decade on UK high street
It seems too soon to be celebrating Cos 10th UK birthday
but since launching on Londons Regent Street in 2007,
the Swedish brand has spread its pared-back, design-led
ethos further around the world. Standing for Collection
ofStyle, the Cos aesthetic is illustrated perfectly in its
anniversary 10-piece collection. The three mens pieces
within it a lightweight collarless camel cotton blouson,
an elevated T-shirt in bright white poplin and camel shorts
are bang on for SS 17. Esquire tip: wear the jacket as
atonal mid-layer with a light overcoat. cosstores.com
Camel cotton shorts, 55; camel cotton jacket, 115; white
cottonT-shirt, 55, all by Cos
HACKETT JOURNEY
Smart men always travel light
RAEY MENSWEAR STORE
Matches Fashion off-shoot comesoffline Hacketts new Journey suit is cut from
a360-degree lightweight wool thats
Matches Fashion has been selling in-house-designed apparel treated to be water-repellent, antiperspirant
online under the name Raey for several seasons. Now the brand and antibacterial. Most usefully, its
is setting up its first space at 83 Ledbury Road, London W11. The crease-resistant, so if you stuff it in a suitcase
store will stock the new SS 17 collection and is hosting a season- or sleep in it on the flight, it springs back
Hearst Studios
free drop of new pieces every week. matchesfashion.com into shape in time for landing. hackett.com
Royal blue wool coat, 725; camel brown viscose-cotton Navy wool suit, 750; blue/white cotton shirt,
skater jacket, 395, both by Raey 95; black silk-knit tie, 80, all by Hackett
68
Style Fitness
Start the
working
out week The headphones
The noise cancellation of
Boses QuietComfort 35 helps
Esquires personal trainer me stay in the zone.
Harry Jameson sets you 330;bose.co.uk
the challenge of his own
seven-day training
programme good luck
70
Style Fitness
Six issues
for just
ONLY
9.99*
1.67
AN ISSUE
+ RECEIVE
The Big Black Book, worth 6
To subscribe, visit:
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or call 0844 322 1762 and quote offercode1EQ11168
Terms and conditions: Offer valid for UK subscriptions by Direct Debit only. *After the first six issues, your subscription will continue at 14.95 every six months by Direct Debit. Free gift is limited to the first 50 orders. If this gift becomes unavailable you
will be offered an alternative gift of a similar value. All orders will be acknowledged and you will be advised of commencement issue within 14 days. This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other subscription offer and closes 30 May 2017. The
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will cost no more than 5p per minute; calls made from mobiles usually cost more.
Culture Film / Music / Books / Television / Art
Stephen Shore, courtesy 303 Gallery, New York
>
Theres not a lot that hasnt already been Shore shot for Uncommon Places from 1973 to appreciate his work, be it women,
said in praise of Stephen Shore. His 1982 to 1981, many unpublished, and selecting carsorAmerican identity. Perhaps these
book, Uncommon Places, revolutionised 10each. Wes Anderson picks pictures that were Shores thoughts, or perhaps these
theunderstanding of colour photography suggest stories, while photography writer selections say more about the eye of
andrevealed Shores ability to draw the David Campany looks for uses of the colour thebeholders. Either way, they reveal that,
uncannily beautiful from the ordinary. So green. Artist Taryn Simon uses an algorithm 36years on from Shores original project,
how to say a little bit more? Selected Works to pick what others ignored: It makes sense theres still plenty of greatness to mine.
is a new book for which agroup of artists, to pick the leftovers from someone who
authors and curators have been tasked with focuses on leftovers, she writes. The result? Stephen Shore: Selected Works 19731981
rummaging through the archive of images A series of new thought-lines through which (Aperture) is out on 23 May
74
Culture
Pleasure by
Face time
Feist is out on28 On her gutsy new album, Feist gives herself
April (Universal
Music Group) nowhere to hide
How does Leslie Feist, the Canadian Pleasure, on which she occupies
singer-songwriter better known, centre stage. Feist has described
boarding school style, by the therecord as a performance
surname under which she records, album, saying that my skeletal
feel about the whole Apple thing frame should be able to hold up
now? In 2007, the track 1234 from thesongs. There is a definite sense
her album The Reminder was used on of self-sufficiency and starkness to
an ad for an iPod Nano, in which she Pleasure: single guitar notes which
was seen dancing in a blue spangly might have been chords, and an
catsuit, and she was catapulted to earthy sensuality to Feists vocals
alevel of indie super-stardom that which have already earned the
she has admitted she didnt quite album PJ Harvey comparisons. But
anticipate, shifting a million copies theres also stealth ornamentation
and selling out the Hollywood Bowl on apparently stripped-back songs:
(in the ultimate nod, she even got a sing-a-long on Any Party, the
toperform on Sesame Street). heavy metal wig-out on A Man is
Even if shes too nice to say it, her Not His Song, a Jarvis Cocker
subsequent actions suggest she was monologue on Century.
happy to let the limelight fade. She Of course, Feists voice, a thing
released an album, 2011s Metals, ofwonder, is still the main attraction,
that was critically lauded yet less and when she sings the end is
overtly pop, and spent a few years coming in a trail of descending
quietly submerging herself into notes on album closer Young Up,
talented ensembles, including itstill sounds like a glittering cascade
contributing to projects with Beck, of unicorn tears. And maybe this
Wilco and Jamie Lidell, another album wont be the one to help
withRadioheads Colin Greenwood amajor multi-national corporation
and Airs Nicholas Godin, and shift soon-to-be-obsolete personal
touring with her former band listening devices, but in
BrokenSocial Scene. understanding the range of
Now though, shes back on her thisquietly talented artist, it will
own again with a new album, makeyou think different.
Oh brother...
Stuart Heritages biography of his younger sibling is an amusing
nod to the normal
Wed like to apologise to Esquires art who moves back to the family town Heritages exuberant, joke-packed
director, Pete, for drawing his Ashford in Kent to find that his prose which has plenty ofpops at his
colleagues attention to the existence wayward younger brother has gone white van man in another life sibling,
of a book called Dont be a Dick, Pete. and got all growed-up and supplanted but also sends himself up with
(Why does it always have to be Pete? him in his absence. something of the knowing-not-knowing
he wailed. You tell us, Pete. You tell us.) And thats kind of it its anone- pomposity of Will in The Inbetweeners.
The dickish Pete, as opposed to Esquire too-remarkable account of having Not surprising then, that the rights for
Pete (who is, we swear it, alovely ayounger brother, and the kind of the TV adaptation were hotly
fellow), is Stuart Heritages younger none-too-remarkable incidents that contested. (Something else for
brother and the ostensible subject of happen as a result (one particular EsquirePete to look forward to.)
The Guardian writers first book. Of episode in the Heritage lore is now
course, its really mostly abook about known as the Baked Potato Situation). Dont Be a Dick, Pete by Stuart Heritage
Stu, the self-described favourite son But what makes it worthwhile is (Square Peg) is out on 4 May
75
Culture
Spot the
frontman!
An album by new
indie supergroup
BNQT doubles as
asuper-fun* quiz
76
Culture
David Grann has an eye for Z, recently an inferior film, Harpers Magazine at the
a story. His Twitter feed is was one of his. Killers of the time. It soon was: they
awellspring of longform Flower Moon has already started dying in increasingly
newspaper and magazine been subject to the far-fetched circumstances.
links: Russian hackers, biggest and wildest books Grann digs deep to piece
climate change, hidden rights auction in memory together the century-old
continents, troubled army a 4m fight that pitched mystery, one that led to the
vets, financial skulduggery, JJ Abrams against George creation of the FBI. Then he
Trump he seems to have Clooney against Brad Pitt. serves his ace: the final third
read everything. In the Twenties, after findshim uncovering new
The multi-award winning oilwas discovered on their evidence. Police corruption,
New Yorker staffer land, the worlds wealthiest racial injustice, cover-ups,
published his own anthology people were Oklahomas serial murder, its all here.
in 2010, The Devil and Native American Osage You can only guess at the
Sherlock Holmes, in which tribe. They took to being boggling levels of research
the yarn concerning the chauffeured around, involved. Grann wears it all
death of the worlds wearing fancy French so lightly: the man with an
foremost Holmes expert in fashions and educating eye for a story has an
mysterious circumstances their children in Europe. eartomatch. Superb.
set the tone for a dozen TheOsage Indians are
peerlessly reported becoming so rich that Killers of the Flower Moon
examples of indelible something will have to be byDavid Grann (Simon
nonfiction. The Lost City of done about it, noted &Schuster) is out now
Lauren Greenfield:
Generation Wealth
is out on 15 May
(Phaidon)
77
Culture
Big shot
Artist Chris Burden emerged on the scene
all guns blazing, a new doc reveals, but its
what happened next that surprises
Taking aim
Brad Pitt plays a deluded general in new film
War Machine, but whos really the butt of the joke?
If you imagine Brad Pitts gym bunny which lost McChrystal his job. Michd, commanders that, We cant help
from 2008s Burn After Reading, and however, has chosen to fictionalise his them and kill them at the same time.
cross it with his tank commander in character, allowing more creative and Itjust aint humanly possible, and is
2014s Fury, you have the gist of the satirical licence. met with nothing but grim jaws and
character he plays in Netflix film, War We get Pitt, with silver hair, resigned eyes, it seems like hes the
Machine. Director David Michds new Ken-Doll arms and awkward squint, ignoramus. But then, of course, hes
movie is based on the late journalist doing a comedic turn as General Glen right, and the absurdity of the
Michael Hastings book, The Operators, McMahon, whos trying to win in situation isnt one misguided man,
about his time spent with General Afghanistan, even though no one, buta whole misguided war. And so
Stanley McChrystal (seen left), US and including him, really knows what that thesatire finds its mark.
Nato Coalition Forces commander in means. Except when he announces
Afghanistan, the original reporting of hisnew strategy to a room of sub- War Machine is out on Netflix on 26 May
78
Culture
Like, so California!
An exhibition argues that where design is concerned,
backing vocals on We Got the Power
caused a flurry. But who cares about
Noel when theres Grace Jones on
Charger, Mavis Staples adding
gravitas to Let Me Out, De La Soul
wereall in a Golden State on Momentz and the
synthesizersonWe Got the Power
are played by Jean-Michel Jarre?
And how does it sound? Albarn
Remember those TV ads from California from Easy Rider, doors of perception had said he wanted to keep
everything over 125bpm, but it still has
Tourism full of celebrities and bikini babes beingprised open by LSD, and the magic
an aura of moody, soulful trip-hop-
and a bloke on a really tall bike by Golden ofDisney. meets-hip-hop-meets-funk that is
Gate Bridge? Remember how you kind of Of course, the light or should that ambitious, eclectic and not a little
eccentric. Sounds like those
wanted to push the bike over, but were beshadow that falls over it all is Silicon subterranean dungeon sessions did
alittle bit jealous of him all the same? That Valley, represented by Waymos self-driving the trick.
more or less sums up the British attitude car, an original Apple 1 computer and
Humanz by Gorillaz is out on
toCalifornians smug, beautiful, tanned Soleio Cuervos original design for the 28April(Parlophone)
automatons who suggest by their very Facebook like button. Because who isnt
existence that we, on our grey, windswept grateful for the screen-obsessed, self-
isle are actually just a bunch of mugs. absorbed world we live in today? In which
Good news then, from the Design Bay Area technocrats make billions from
Museum in London, as its new show, data harvested from the masses, and
California: Designing Freedom, posits that racefor the personal glory of pioneering
due to the pervasive influence of culture the future technologies that may well,
from the Golden State since the Sixties forallanyone seems to know, obliterate
weare all, in a sense, Californians. Drawing humanity? But ach, who cares. LOLcats!
together over 200 objects, the exhibition
examines just how our lives have come California: Designing Freedom, 24 May to 15
under West Coast influence. There is October is at the Design Museum, London
Getty
79
Haute cuisine: a new
breed of high (in
somecase literally)
restaurants are
transforming the City
HAWKSMOOR
GUILDHALL
BLACKLOCK
N OT SO SQ UARE
ANY MORE
With the worlds most acclaimed chefs arriving
innumbers, and east Londons hip and
accessible ethos driving out a once stuffy
andinhospitable culture, the City of Londons
concrete canyons are buzzing with a newfound
foodie scene. Suddenly, in 2017, going out to eat
and drink in the Square Mile really is the business
By
Rachel Fellows
83
YAUATCHA
Opened May 2015
WHATS THE DEAL?: A wine bar/ WHATS THE DEAL?: Known for its WHATS THE DEAL?: Few WHATS THE DEAL?: A collaboration
bistro with aflair for Burgundy Press for Champagne buttons unmarked joints could garner between Soho House and Sydell
anda quality menu, Cabotte is atevery table, the art deco as much excitement as Group in the old Midland Bank site,
thebrainchild of two master opulence of Sohos Bob Bob Ricard Blacklock did when itopened expect oldfashioned comfort
sommeliers who have 12 will be transported to the bottom first inSoho. Its Sunday roast yanked up to the modern day,
Burgundian producers onboard. ofTheCheesegrater building was named best inthe nation according to founder Nick Jones.
The wine list isa tome, with many laterthis year. Owner Leonid by Observer Food Monthly last Iwant everyone to feel they can
fine wines offered by theglass Shutovsays the restaurant will year; cocktails are a fiver. Its go to The Ned, he says. And with
thanks to the specialist storage cover14,000sq ft with no doors newest restaurant is on the site Crashpad rooms from 150
technologies forbottles once (only doorways), and akitchen more of Londonsfirst meat market. anight, thats not unrealistic.
theyre opened. It also offers beautiful than Rothschilds offices WHAT TO ORDER: The All-in WHAT TO ORDER: The banks old
anabridged list for those will serve asimilar Russian-European is astack of chops to share; welcome desk is now a central
overwhelmed by too muchchoice. fusion to his original. Its going to order charred baby gem and stage between eight restaurants
WHAT TO ORDER: Beef cheek make the old restaurant look plain, 10-hour ash-roasted sweet (including a Cecconis and new
bourguignon and (obvs) a big Shutovsays. Its so over the top. potato on theside. brasserie Millies), and there will be
glassofpunchy red. WHERE: The Leadenhall Building, WHERE: 13 Philpot Lane, music and acts late into the night.
WHERE: 48 Gresham Street, EC2V; 122Leadenhall Street, EC3V; Eastcheap, EC3M; WHERE: 27 Poultry, EC2R;
cabotte.co.uk bobbobexchange.com theblacklock.com thened.com
WHATS THE DEAL?: Shoot up in WHATS THE DEAL? Jason Athertons WHATS THE DEAL?: This multi-
theWilly Wonka-style glass lift to the Michelin-starred high-rise restaurant award-winning cocktail bar is in
40th floor of the Salesforce Tower serves British food in his creative, abasement beneath Smithfield
and enjoy acocktail at the bar, unfussy style. Business diners can meat market, with a menu split
withcrispy pigs ear snacks. The bewhisked in and out (Theyre into Old World, New World and
dining room is relaxed and buzzing, asking for the bill before the main TheOrient sections. Quirky but
with an open kitchen and wooden course hits the table, Atherton stopping short of tacky. Its fted
tables placed right on a mezzanine- says). Others make the most of the bar bites are aPeruvian-Japanese
cum-precipice overlooking the cocktail bar before settling down fusion calledNikkei.
streets farbelow. tothe full three courses with a view. WHAT TO ORDER: A Skyefall
WHAT TO ORDER: The signature WHAT TO ORDER: The apple tarte blends Talisker 10-year-old whisky
Londons highest restaurant
(at 175m tall) Duck &Wae, dishof aconfit duck leg on a hearty Tatin with vanilla ice cream and with wildbirch-sap syrup, coffee
top, oers extraordinary waffle, fried egg on top and a jug caramel sauce is made for two leaf vermouth and clarified
views of the City as well as ofmustard maple syrup. Weirdly (butwhoscounting?). octopus milk (relax, its milk cooked
food to match, including its appropriate anytime day or night. WHERE: 24th Floor, Tower 42, with octopus, not expressed from).
famed namesake dish, above WHERE: 40th Floor, 110 Bishopsgate, 25 Old Broad Street, EC2N; WHERE: East Poultry Avenue,
EC2N; duckandwaffle.com citysociallondon.com Smithfield Markets, EC1A;
oriolebar.com
WHATS THE DEAL?: A pair of WHATS THE DEAL?: This second WHATS THE DEAL?: The former
distillers brought gin back to venue the first is in Great food truck kings who hooked
thecore of the City, witha full Titchfield Street, Fitzrovia Londoners on pulled pork and
distillery producing arange of hasashooting range with virtual brisket traded in their teensy Soho
notable bottles, as well asa bar screens. Its veni-moo wasnamed corner for more space, allowing
where you can drop in foraG&T the UKs best signature burger. them a huge wood-burning grill
while admiring the very stills Meanwhile, venison steak and and on-site brewery. Top quality
fromwhich your Gcame. chips is just 13. meat from happy animals are
WHAT TO ORDER: Christopher WHAT TO ORDER: A round their priorities, translating into
Wren Gin,a small-batch spirit with ofhaggispops before a venison simple, delicious food.
five botanicals and served from chateaubriand, with anIrn Bru WHAT TO ORDER: Cured, smoked
abottleinspired by the architects daiquiri on the side. pork jowl (with a big wad of fat
nearby St Pauls Cathedral. WHERE: 92 Devonshire Square, ontop), and bone marrow mash.
WHERE: 2224 Bride Lane, EC4Y; EC2M; macandwild.com WHERE: 1 The Avenue, Devonshire
cityoflondondistillery.com Square, EC2M; pittcue.co.uk
87
Any colour you want...
...as long as its black or white.
Wiley makes the case for summer monochrome
Photographs by Fashion by
91
their own.) Not that it was a nickname he was
ready for. Its an old mans title. I wouldnt
accept it, he says. I was denitely too young
probably 26, 27 but when youre the oldest
in a scene they wont let you forget it.
Now, nearing 40, he has come to terms with
it, using it as the title of his 11th studio album
(he has also released 12 mixtapes and, follow-
ing a disagreement with a record label in 2010,
several hours of material on zip les), which
came out earlier this year. Over Godfathers
17 blistering tracks, he reects on his origins.
I had to look at the reasons why they called
me the godfather, and I had to tap into why
Im Wiley. I watched my father be a musician
[his father, Richard Cowie Sr, worked for Brit-
ish Telecom and was involved in the London
reggae scene in the Eighties], so I wanted to be
amusician, but there were times when I didnt.
Ive done every single thing that earns money,
legal and illegal. I tried to resist, but it just came
pouring out of me.
The album has earned near-universal
acclaim theres no dud on this rattling tour
de force, proclaimed The Guardian and in
November, Wiley will be celebrating its suc-
cess with his biggest UK headline show, at Lon-
dons Brixton Academy. Before that, though,
Glastonbury. Wiley was booked to perform at
Worthy Farm in 2013, but when he arrived he
let his feelings about the festival be known in
a now-legendary stream of tweets that began
with Soon as I land Rain s and included
the immortal line fuck them and their farm.
He never made it onto the stage.
Asked about it now, he gives a decidedly
Doc Brown-esque answer about how the gov-
ernment didnt want me to experience it in the
way that I should have experienced it, but says
that he is looking forward to attending this year
with an open mind and a really sick camping
trailer a house on wheels, basically.
The problem then, he says now, was sim-
ply one of timing. I know that if I was in Glas-
tonbury in the Eighties, I could have stood in
that eld with everyone and seen what it would
look like in 26 years anyway with my vision,
I would have been able to see. I had to nd my
own way, and now Ive found it.
Boss
Grey wool suit, 530;
white cotton shirt, 140;
green silk knitted tie,
125; white silk pocket
square, 45, allby Boss
94
Photographers assistant: Neil Payne | Digital operator: Shivy Kanagaratnam | Fashion assistant: Emie James-Crook | Hair: Carl Murray
Grooming: Jennie Roberts at Frank Agency using Bobbi Brown | Retouching: Artmedia Partners | See Stockists page for details
95
Its truth time
Before there was HBO, Netix and Amazon Prime there
was The Sweeney, The Professionals, Bergerac. This
month, Mindhorn, a new comedy from The Mighty
Booshs Julian Barratt, pays twisted tribute to the glory
days of the British TV detective, and the men who played
them. Forbetter and much, much worse
By
Dan Davies
96
97
Dawn broke on the golden age of British
TV detectives in January 1975, at a time when
THE SWEENEY
the Prime Minister Harold Wilson was facing
up to the grim reality of a double-dip reces- WHO:
WHAT:
The Sweeney, ITVs seminal series about the
Flying Squad, was adrama that appeared to be YEARS Officers in the Metropolitan
Polices Flying Squad
in step with its time gritty, uncompromising
and violent and one that marked a decisive WHERE: WHEN:
London 197578
shift away from the cosy British police shows
CAR:
that had gone before.
The golden age of Ford Consul 3000GT;
The show made unlikely sex symbols of a
UK TV detectives made for Ford Granada Mk II 2.8iS
pair of hard drinking, resolutely non-PC, plain-
clothes cops Detective Inspector Jack Regan
some arresting viewing. FOIL:
(played by John Thaw) and Detective Sergeant Heres an identity parade of Detective Chief Inspector Frank Haskins
the guilty parties (Garfield Morgan)
George Carter (played by a youthful Dennis
PERSONALITY TRAITS:
Waterman). Their uncompromising approach
to collaring violent criminals involved daytime Aggressive, hard-drinking womanisers
with an in-built disdain for authority
boozing, brawling with toe-rags and shouting
Shut it! and guvnor alot. Low-speed car-
chases around light industrial parks and inner-
city waste grounds (usually involving random
piles of cardboard boxes) were de rigueur.
Spanning four years and 53 episodes, The the duvet. Pulling up one corner, he reaches Man who wears an eyepatch that conven-
Sweeney was the rst realistic, modern police inside with his other hand and squeezes. Do iently allows him to see the truth. Its asci-
procedural on British television. In its wake fol- all coppers have cold hands? murmurs the Bergerac, says Simon Farnaby, Barratts
lowed The Professionals, Dempsey and Make- woman, half-asleep. Only the randy ones, co-star and co-writer, referring to the Jersey-set
peace, Shoestring, Bergerac, Inspector Morse, he leers. Maybe you had to be there. (For those Eighties detective series.
Poirot and Spender, shows which became x- who werent, The Sweeney was memorably Featuring eye-catching cameos from Steve
tures in the pre-satellite TV, pre-internet liv- spoofed 10 years ago by the BBCs time-travel Coogan, Kenneth Branagh and Andrea Rise-
ing rooms of a nation, and whose stars became cop show, Life on Mars, with Philip Glenisters borough, Mindhorn (the lm, not the ctional
some of the most famous faces in the country, Gene Hunt standing in for Shaws Regan.) TV show) opens with Thorncroft out of work
for good and sometimes ill. and living alone; an overweight, toupee-wear-
This month, a new comedy lm, Mindhorn, In Mindhorn, Julian Barratt plays ing has-been surrounded by reminders of his
pays tribute to the great British TV detectives of Richard Thorncroft, a washed-up actor who all-too-brief spell in the spotlight. Its the
the Seventies, Eighties and early Nineties, in all in theEighties was the star of a TV detective story of an actor who is bitter, explains Bar-
their dubious splendour, and pokes fun at the show, also called Mindhorn, about a mous- ratt. Hes out of time, out of shape and out of
actors whose stars rose and fell as their popu- tachioed former secret agent on the Isle of luck. (Thorncroft, the story goes, walked away
larity waxed and, inevitably, waned.
Those shows are so unreconstructed, Dennis Waterman as Detective Sergeant George Carter and John Thaw as Detective Inspector Jack Regan,
reects Julian Barratt, the star and co-writer of the unrepentant, hard men cops of the Flying Squad in the ITV series The Sweeney (197578)
Mindhorn, previously best known for his work
on The Mighty Boosh and Nathan Barley. They
have an old-school macho ethic, and a cavalier
morality which makes them fun to watch at an
ironic distance.
A very ironic distance: when the audience
rst meets Jack Regan in the opening episode
of The Sweeney, he is wearing a skimpy ladies
kimono. The living room of the flat he has
woken up in is littered with unnished tum-
blers of scotch and brimming ashtrays. Back
at the station, Regans colleagues are none the
wiser to his whereabouts, although their suspi-
cions are clearly based on form: His kidneys
must be waving a white ag, mutters one.
Having climbed into a pair of ared slacks
and xed the knot on a kipper tie so wide its
impossible to tell the colour of his shirt, Regan
opens the door of the bedroom and nds the
Rex
98 Interview
THE PROFESSIONALS SHOESTRING BERGERAC
from his show at the height of his success, in Martin Campbell many years later. Martin is
adoomed bid for Hollywood stardom.) from the theatre, he is a professional actor, and
Everything changes when a deranged killer had been for a long time. Lewis isnt.
on the Isle of Man contacts the police and Farnaby chuckles: They both took them-
demands to speak to Mindhorn. Sensing this selves quite seriously but Martin Shaw de-
might be the last opportunity to relaunch his nitely took himself more seriously. Lewis
failed career, Thorncroft sucks in his gut, dons Collins just looked really good. Shaw never
his old garb and heads back to the island, ready attempted to conceal his misgivings over the
to revive his once-famous ctional secret agent. shows high levels of violence and one-dimen-
As a result, Thorncroft is forced into asurreal sional main characters. In The Professionals
reckoning with his past truth-revealing eye- Annual, published in 1979 at a time when he
patch and all. was still playing Doyle, Shaw was asked what
For all its ights of mad fancy, Mindhorn is he looked for in a script. Truth. Plausibility.
inspired by true stories of TV thespian hubris: Integrity, he replied earnestly. I dont nd
for the British actors who became and much in The Professionals to make me explore
remain synonymous with their crime-ght- myself as an artist. Ouch.
ing alter egos, the viewing publics appetite A typical mornings work for Ray Doyle, played by The Professionals ran from 1977 to 1983, and
for flawed coppers, tormented private eyes MartinShaw, inTheProfessionals (197783) made household names of both men. Shaw went
and eccentric super-sleuths has proved to be on to enjoy a prolic career; Collins starred in
a mixed blessing. Some, like John Shaw, who The Professionals, which arrived hard on the the ill-fated 1982 SAS movie Who Dares Wins
went on to play Inspector Morse after The heels of The Sweeney, was a full frontal assault (aka The Final Option outside the UK), and was
Sweeney, and John Nettles, who starred in on the senses with a furiously funked-up theme briefly mentioned as a possible James Bond.
Bergerac, appeared to embrace their strange, tune and fast-cut credits showing cars crashing After Collins moved to Los Angeles to explore
typecast fame. For those who regarded them- through windows and its main protagonists movie opportunities, however, his acting career
selves as serious actors Martin Shaw in The sprinting, pushing weights and, well, sprint- stalled and he wound up running a computer
Professionals and Trevor Eve in Shoestring, for ing again. Martin Shaw played the extrava- company, quietly fuming as his erstwhile co-star
example it was a ball and chain. And for one gantly permed former policeman Ray Doyle, refused to entertain ideas of a remake, and
step forward David Suchet in Poirot it took with Lewis Collins as the pouting ex-SAS ocer worse, put the kibosh on lucrative re-runs over an
over his life completely. William Bodie. Working under the shadowy alleged dispute over copyright and Equity fees.
We had a big debate about Thorncrofts auspices of CI5 special men combating Shaw continued to bridle when questioned
relationship with Mindhorn, says Farnaby of anarchy, acts of terror, crimes against the pub- about The Professionals. Hed probably shoot
the 10 years they spent working on the script. lic this unintentionally camp partnership one series over 10 weeks of lming, have a year
It makes a big dierence in a comedic sense. was supposed to be Britains answer to Starsky o with a run at the Old Vic, and then do the
For a while, we thought he should hate the &Hutch, with California substituted for Silver next series, Farnaby says. And those little
show like Martin Shaw with The Professionals, Jubilee-era Hertfordshire. bits of lming have dened his professional
but we realised that he would have to embrace One obstacle was the fact Britains new life. Imean, how many times has he had peo-
coming back and putting on the eyepatch and buddy cop duo didnt like each other much. ple shout at him, Oi Doyle, wheres the perm?
saying, Hello old friend. There was friction, confirmed director Barratt smiles: I love the idea of Thorncroft
doing Hamlet and someone in the audience every episode, continues Farnaby. You watch
shouting, Its truth time [Mindhorns catch- Bergerac and the wind is always howling and
phrase] and him absolutely losing his shit their hair is blowing everywhere. Theyll be
onstage. sitting in a caf and outside the umbrellas will
There are dierent ways of dealing with be turning inside out but Bergerac will say,
ones past, Barratt concedes. There are those Another beautiful day in Jersey. John Net-
with golden memories of this as an incredi- tles, the islands most famous adopted son, has
ble time in their lives that they love talking written a series of books on Jersey.
about, and then there are those who say theyve
moved on. Trevor Eve was among the latter, While Mindhorn mines a rich seam of
and provided further inspiration for the char- comedy from the numerous motifs that have
acter of Mindhorns Richard Thorncroft. become deeply embedded within the Brit-
In 1979, Eve, a 27-year-old stage actor, was ish psyche, it also reects how playing a c-
plucked from obscurity to star in Shoestring. Set tional crime ghter can do strange things to
in Bristol, the series centred on a psychologi- an actors mental state. Theres quite a bit
cally fragile computer expert who enjoys doo- of David Suchet in Thorncroft, confirms
dling before reinventing himself as a private Farnaby, referencing the extreme lengths the
eye with his own late-night radio show. With his method actor went to during his 25 years as
moustache, crumpled jackets and permanently Michael Brandon as James Dempsey in Dempsey and Hercule Poirot, Agatha Christies eccentric Bel-
loosened tie, Eddie Shoestring became a poster Makepeace (198586) gian detective. His way of getting into charac-
boy in the early days of Thatchers Britain. ter and his actor-ish way of explaining his pro-
The show ran for two seasons and drew aprivate investigator after being axed from cess was very funny to us, adds Barratt. We
audiences upwards of 17m, but Eve found over- his job with the States of Jersey Police. It is tell- really enjoyed the way he unpacks his process.
night fame to be really freaky. It was the ing of the times that Jim Bergeracs chief foil I read he went in so deep with one play that he
last thing I wanted to do. I was doing movies was a morally dubious millionaire business- came out too soon and got the bends. He for-
theatre, he recalled of his decision to quit man, Charlie Hungerford (played by Terence got who he was and he needed a hypnotist to
the series. I just wanted to go o and do lots of Alexander). There were a lot of businessmen help him remember his own wifes name, and
other stu theatre. More than 36 years on, in these shows in the Eighties businessmen where he lived.
and still unable to get rid of Eddie Shoestring, doing business, says Barratt. Being Poirot (2013) is a y-on-the-wall doc-
Eve admits ruefully that hes followed me. Bergerac was always about business, umentary that follows Suchet during lming of
Eves desire to escape forced the produc- agrees Farnaby. the nal episodes in a franchise that spanned
tion team behind Shoestring to tweak the for- Inspired by Bergerac, the idea had always 70 episodes watched by more than 700m view-
mat and relocate the drama to Jersey. The been to set Mindhorn on an island. We liked ers in over 100 dierent countries. It illuminated
result was Bergerac, which ran for 10 years that idea of the place being a character in the full and sometimes alarming extent of the
from 1981, and was perhaps the TV detec- itself, explains Barratt. The original idea actors commitment to his character. Hercule
tive series that most accurately reected the was that Mindhorn was an extended tourism Poirot, for me, is almost a real person, Suchet
Getty | Rex
Thatcher years. John Nettles played a recently advert, and they were contractually obliged said without a icker of irony. He is the person
divorced, recovering alcoholic who became to mention the Isle of Mans microclimate in who was responsible for my life for 25 years. Ive
101
Classic
summer
style:
an Esquire
guide
With help from
Paul Newman,
Steve McQueen
and this guy
ui
ui
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Cl a s s i r
n E sq uire
guid
e
summ
e 20
st yle
A
7 1
17
0
A
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2 quir
Es
e guide
Summer tailoring
Cream cotton blazer, 395; cream cotton trousers, 145, Green wool-linen double-breasted blazer, 1,185; green wool-linen
both by Hackett. Light blue cotton shirt, 195, by Turnbull trousers, 395, both by Thom Sweeney. White cotton shirt, 200,
& Asser. Navy/white dotted silk knit tie, 135, by Drakes by Emma Willis. Green denim tie, 140, by Herms
Brown calf suede loafers, 510, by Crockett & Jones Black calfskin leather shoes, 410, by Churchs
AP/Rex | Elio Sorci/Camera Press | AP/PA
Black leather-suede document briefcase, 475, Dark brown calfskin leather brogues, Stainless steel Heritage Chronomtrie Chronograph Annual
byWilliam & Son 615,by JM Weston Calendar on black leather strap, 7,800, by Montblanc
d e 2 0 17
gui
i re
u
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Cl a
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s u m s s ic
sq u
ire g uide
m
st yl er
2
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de
i 0
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17
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Dont complicate the basics. Theres a reason brands become associated
with specific items: a T-shirt from Sunspel, jeans from APC, Ray-Ban shades
and a Baracuta Harrington. Because if its good enough for Warren...
Weekend
classics
n
Cl a
sq
Es
s u m s s ic
An E
quir
e guide
m
st yle er
0 17
2
2
de
i 0
17
gu An
E sq uire
At the gym
Navy cotton-jersey sweatshirt, 585, by Gucci Tan leather duffel bag, 1,440, by Ralph Lauren Purple Label
Navy cotton sweater, Green cotton-jersey sweater, White ribbed cotton socks,
165, by Ami 110, by Polo Ralph Lauren 70, by Thom Browne
Mark Kauffman/Getty | Laurence Harris/AP/Rex | Rex | John Dominis/Getty
Grey cashmere jumper, 730, Grey cotton sweatpants, 70, Bois du Portugal fragrance, Blue suede/white leather
byBrunello Cucinelli byJCrew 185/75ml, by Creed trainers, 75, by Adidas
0 17 A n
2 Es
de q
ui
ui
re
g
c
Cl a s s i r
n E sq uire
guid
e
summ
e 20
e
A
st y l
7 1
17
0
A
n
2 quir
Es
e guide
Trunks: neither too short nor too long (mid-thigh is fine), tailored with side
fastenings is ideal, elasticated acceptable if youre carrying some Brando
ballast. Colour is encouraged but keep the towelling polo blue, like JFK
At the beach
Clockwise from top left: yellow polyamide-cotton swim shorts, 145, by Orlebar Brown. Blue polyamide-cotton
swim shorts, 160, by Vilebrequin. Black/white rectangular print nylon swim trunks, 160, by Dan Ward.
Bluenylon swim trunks, 55, by Ralph Lauren. White polyester floral print swim shorts, 50, by Tommy Hilfiger.
Red/white polyamide-cotton swim shorts, 145, by Frescobol Carioca Navy suede espadrilles, 395, by Bottega Veneta
Tortoiseshell acetate sunglasses, 270, by Oliver Peoples Matte black acetate sunglasses, 280, by Armani Tortoiseshell acetate sunglasses, 185, by Persol
2 0 17
id e A
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Cl a s s
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As the sun goes down, the rules change, but theres no excuse for slacking.
The essentials? A slim-cut blazer, tapered trousers, a loose shirt, soft shoes
and, if youre Paul Newman, a sailors cap. (BTW, youre not Paul Newman)
After hours
Black/blue suede woven penny loafers, 475, Blue/white striped cotton-seersucker White linen shirt, 90, by Hackett
by Jimmy Choo jacket, 150, by J Crew
Navy cotton grandad shirt, 95, by Oliver Spencer Pink linen-silk trousers, 330, by Canali Blue cotton-seersucker blazer, 545, by Richard James
id
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Clasmer
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Dead
cool
How come the
most enduring
iconsof masculine
styleareall six
feetunder?
By
Mick Brown
made no attempt to soften its central character, reason Idris Elba, or Colin Farrell, or pretty The photograph of Kerouac in Gaps ad was
to make him a paragon of progressive attitudes much any actor you care to name, always looks taken on the streets of New York, at around the
in a sea of chauvinism and bad behaviour. In good in magazines is because the fashion edi- time Kerouac wrote those words, a time when
an age when men are constantly under siege for tor has styled them that way. he was battling alcoholism, disillusioned and
being sexist, or being told to check their privi- And death oers no protection. Barbour embittered by being fted as the king of the
lege, or to get in touch with their inner feelings, International had an SS 16 Steve McQueen Beats a moniker he, of course, hated. In
Draper crashes through other peoples lives like Collection, a powerful compilation that cele- the end, no amount of cool, no amount of style
a bulldozer, keeping a lid on his feelings until brates an iconic gure in history but that, one could save him. Kerouac died in 1969 aged 47,
they threaten to burst. suspects, the famous biker jacket notwithstand- a broken man.
Draper represents a particular archetype of ing, McQueen himself would never have worn. So, where do we look now? There are
masculinity; the Type A personality, driven, Particularly T-shirts with his own image plas- unquestionably stylish people to be found. In
professional, in control. But the carapace of tered on the front. the world of acting, there is George Clooney,
smooth self-condence and the immaculate Would Marlon Brando, Frank Sinatra or aman who in his leisurely, unostentatious way
style cant disguise the mess of the man under- Muhammad Ali have shilled for fashion labels? oozes class. And people speak admiringly of
neath. Jon Hamm, the actor who plays Draper, Its hard to believe it. Ryan Goslings wardrobe. David Beckham is
once expressed surprise at the number of peo- One of my earliest literary heroes and anice man, Im sure, and an admirable ambas-
ple over the years whove told him, I want to I still maintain reading On the Road should sador for the beautiful game. But an icon and
bejust like Don Draper. Im like, You want be an essential part of every young mans rite model of cool? Really? Really? If we want to be
to be a miserable drunk? I dont think you of passage was Jack Kerouac. I suspect few perverse about this, my vote in the football-
wantto be anything like that guy. You want to people cared less about how he dressed than ing world would go to Jrgen Klopp, with his
be like the guy on a poster maybe, but not the Kerouac but that was not enough to save him, accident-prone spectacles, his shocking dental
actual guy. in 1993, from being co-opted by Gap Inc in an work and his standard-issue kit sponsors track-
For many, Steve McQueen is the para- image of him, licensed from his estate, promot- suit; no magazine on earth is ever going to ask
gon of cool masculinity. McQueen liked Har- ing chinos under the tag Kerouac wore kha- him to model Prada or Burberry, but there is
rington jackets, chunky knitwear and desert kis. Of course, what Gap was trying to do was something delightfully singular about Klopp;
boots. You would search high and wide to make a connection between their (mass-pro- and is there a football fan in the country right
nd a picture of him in a suit. He did not have duced) chinos and the celebration of free-think- now who does not secretly wish he was manag-
style but what he had, in spades, was cool. ing individuality that the Beats in general, ing their team? And what about Grayson Perry,
Reform school and a stint in the US Marines and Kerouac in particular, were perceived to a man of wit, intelligence and commendable
had endowed McQueen with an air of tough- embody: mad to live, mad to talk, mad to be self-assurance, who can brush up nicely when
ness and self-containment. He loved fast cars, saved, desirous of everything at the same time, the occasion demands it, although the brightly
motorcycles and aeroplanes. He was a lim- as Kerouac wrote. coloured appliqud frock and Little Bo Beep
ited actor but his best-known roles suggested The Gap advert was a curious fullment of shoes is not a look to suit every man.
he was his own man and nobody elses, some- a prophesy Kerouac himself had made, writing Surely, surely, there must be someone still
one who was never going to be told what to do in a Playboy essay in June 1959 about the way among us who ts the bill, a model of sarto-
by anybody. We admire the Steve McQueen in that Beat style and manners would inevitably rial style and masculinity that any man can
Bullitt (1968). But as is the case with all actors, be swept up in the restless tide of fashion, with aspire to. And then it came to me. An artist,
we never had the opportunity to get close smooth professionals coming out nattily attired a poet and a ladies man (notwithstanding
enough to know whether wed have admired in Brooks Brothers jean-type tailoring and thefact he once recorded an album declaring
the man playing the role. sweater-type pull-ons, in other words, its a sim- the death of that appellation). A man of courtly
As we know, style has little to do with fash- ple change in fashion and manners, just a history manners and bearing, of erudition and wis-
ion. Nothing ages faster than fashion; style crust... Beat comes out, actually, of old American dom. Afamous blue raincoat. An adherence
lasts forever. And one of the problems in try- whoopee and it will only change a few dresses to the dark suit, which he wore every day, even
ing to dene who are todays icons of cool and and pants and make chairs useless in the living if he was only planning on a little house clean-
style is that fashion has taken over. Nowadays, room. Kerouac also wrote, great things are not ing. And a fedora. Leonard Cohen, of course.
it is almost a mandatory requirement for any accomplished by those who yield to trends and A living exemplar. And then, as I sat down
male figure of distinction and achievement fads and popular opinion. I dont think he was towrite this, he too passed. Buried, no doubt
to be signed up as a gurehead for this fash- writing about the width of a lapel or the drape of in a suit. I just hope the fourth cuff button
Getty
ion brand or an ambassador for that one. The a jacket, but the same principle applies. wasundone.
Seth Armstrong
Acclaimed novelist and lifelong
football fan Ross Raisins latest
work of ction is set in the world
of Englands lower leagues, an
obsessively documented but
almost entirely closed community.
What Raisin discovered in
researching his new book makes
uncomfortable reading for
anyone seeking todefend the
reputation of ournationalgame
119
of those closed doors, and also because, despite endemic within football. You are not one of the
my unease at many of the things I have heard boys, part of the club, until you have proved your-
and seen and imagined, I love football. I am
a football supporter. Some of my lifes most
There is a baseline self a man. Which may well involve being humil-
iated for not being man enough. Sometimes this
exquisite moments of joy, release, have occurred
inside football grounds. So I have become hyper-
homophobia and can be in jest, as banter. Look at any football
internet message board and you will observe
aware just how little I have ever concerned
myself about what goes on o the pitch, turn-
repressed fear how the banter bubble of the dressing room is
replicated on forums, with insults, threats, lev-
ing a blind eye to the grubby reality in order to
enjoy the show.
going on here that elled at other posters and players alike. And
sometimes it can be physically malicious.
124
and predicts that there will be 10,000 NewSpace reasonable activity. This could mean that the European Space Agencys Rosetta landed on
companies created in the next 10 years. a company with a eet of satellites like the a comet an icy variation on an asteroid but
It wasnt just Musk. Je Bezos, the founder ones Planetary Resources is developing could it bounced on the surface, fell into a ssure and
of Amazon and the owner of The Washington simply point them at any asteroid they like and failed to do any drilling.
Post, has similarly grandiose plans. He founded claim legal rights to it. This language was even- Late last year, Nasa launched Osiris-Rex,
his own NewSpace rocket company, Blue Ori- tually removed and, for the record, Planetary a spacecraft named after the Egyptian god of
gin, in 2000. The worlds fourth-richest man, Resources strongly denies that this is what the dead, to visit an asteroid and return up to
Bezos has said that he wants millions of peo- it plans to do. Already, however, some space two kilograms of material to Earth by 2023. An
ple living and working in space. lawyers are working out loopholes to exploit, even more ambitious billion-dollar proposal is
On the one hand, these pioneers want to be arguing that if an asteroid is small enough to its aforementioned Asteroid Redirect Mission,
seen as pragmatic businessmen; on the other, be moved by a spacecraft as Nasas Aster- which seeks to grab a multi-ton boulder o an
their business plans are filled with apoca- oid Redirect Mission is set to do it should no asteroid and place it in orbit around the moon
lyptic visions straight out of a re-and-brim- longer be classed a celestial body and there- although funding is proving more elusive for
stone tent revival. After announcing last year fore could be appropriated in its entirety. that one.
that he wanted to send a million people to So far, however, these visions have been Of course, these missions were all bank-
Mars toestablish a self-sustaining city, Musk exactly that: visions. Planetary Resources has rolled by governments, not private investors
soughtto reassure the crowd. I dont have an put only one test cubesat into Earths orbit, expecting a return. But this has not stopped
immediate doomsday prophecy, he said. But after one was destroyed in a launch explosion. the asteroid miners from attracting capital from
he also noted that history suggests there will There has been nothing close to a private aster- some unusual quarters.
be some doomsday event. oid landing yet. What there has been is hype,
For any of these NewSpace visions to and lots of it. Jim Logan, a 22-year Nasa veteran Whats the only country in the world
become reality, asteroid mining has to be a suc- and co-founder of the Space Enterprise Insti- beside Mexico with the letter x in its name?
cess. It seems to be the only way of physically tute, a nonprot analyst rm, warns against Need a clue? Its also home of the worlds lead-
and economically sustaining any prolonged space cadets in the industry who look too far ing provider of balls for ballpoint pens. Still
exploration or occupation of space. The cost ahead. Its not that theyre hyping the possi- nothing? The answer is Luxembourg, a land-
of carrying fuel, water and building materials bility, he says. Theyre guilty of simplifying locked sliver of Europe slightly smaller than
into space from Earth (around $5,000 a pound thesolutions. Rhode Island that has a well-earned reputation
on aSpaceX rocket) is too great to be cost eec- Of course, nobody wants to be like The New for being the most boring country in the world.
tive. Once mined, asteroids could be turned into York Times, which published a 1920 editorial You can imagine the surprise when Luxem-
the equivalent of gas stations and timberyards stating that it was a physical impossibility for bourg announced last year that it had become
for outbound spacecraft. arocket to function in space. But has any busi- a major investor in asteroid mining.
An international treaty signed at the height ness in the history of the world started with such The man behind this unexpected bid for
of the Space Race prohibits nations from claim- faraway objectives? Everyone involved believes intergalactic glory is tienne Schneider, the
ing ownership of celestial bodies but made so fervently in what hasnt happened yet that it deputy prime minister of Luxembourg as well
no mention of private individuals or corpo- can drive you a little crazy. But nding a doubter as its minister of the economy, minister of inter-
rations. Cue the US Space Act of 2015, a bill in the NewSpace community is like trying to nal security, and minister of defence. Sitting in
that made it lawful for any American citizen nd a tell on a poker pros face. his oce eyrie atop an unprepossessing block
to keep whatever they dug out of an asteroid. Admittedly they do have some reason for in Luxembourg City, Schneider explains the
For the rst time in history, a government was optimism, largely thanks to the eorts of those decision with all the air you would expect of
officially allowing its citizens to plunder the working in Old Space. In 2001, Nasa landed the a Mitteleuropean bureaucrat. Originally one of
heavens. An early version contained language Near Shoemaker probe on an asteroid, while Europes largest providers of steel, Luxembourg
drafted by asteroid miners, who lobbied heav- the Japanese space agency managed to bring rebranded itself as a nancial hub when the
ily for the nal bill, suggesting that acompany less than a milligram of asteroid material back mining economy collapsed in the Seventies. At
could call dibs on an asteroid just by showing to earth in 2010 aboard the Hayabusa. In 2014, the time, people thought a nancial centre in
Getty
Amazon owner Je Bezos SpaceX founder Elon Musk Google co-founder Larry Page
Luxembourg makes no sense, Schneider says. also wanted to jump on the NewSpace band- admits, My colleagues arent too keen on it. If it
But we did it and now were quite successful. wagon. It too was heralded as a farsighted doesnt have four wheels and 97 seats in it, they
This is an understatement: Luxembourg has the patron. But today its less a blueprint for suc- begin to chunter.
highest per capita GDP in the world. (The US is cess than a cautionary tale. At the museum, I squeeze by Model T Fords
eighth, the UK 21st.) and vintage Buicks, and then I see it: tucked
Seeking to diversify once more, Luxembourg The Isle of Man 30 miles long by 10 miles out of view between a Leyland double-decker
has spent 25m for 10 per cent of Planetary wide, population 88,000 sits in the middle of bus and an old Velocette racing bike is a pris-
Resources. The country also signed a mem- the Irish Sea like a lost apostrophe. Its not part tine cone-shaped space capsule in racing green,
orandum of understanding with Deep Space of Ireland, and its not really part of the United festooned with the ags of the United States, the
Industries. Around these two businesses Sch- Kingdom. The islands ag, three armoured legs United Kingdom, Russia and the Isle of Man.
neider hopes to create a Luxembourgian Space joined at the hip, bears the motto Whichever This capsule, and a giant module from a Soviet
Agency, as well as a NewSpace investment fund. way you throw it, it will stand, which seems space station that sits under a tarp at the other
We will not do research for the research alone. devoid of any deeper meaning beyond the ben- end of the island, are the property of a man
We really want to do research that will have ets of having three legs. named Art Dula.
adirect impact on the business development. When you ask the lads at a local bar in the Dula is a larger-than-life character in the
Unlike everyone else I met, Schneider has no islands mildewed capital of Douglas whether annals of NewSpace, which is saying some-
personal interest in space. He never watched the they know anything about the space pro- thing. Back in the Seventies, he became one of
Space Shuttle launches or hankered to become gramme, they shrug. Asteroid mining? one Americas rst space lawyers, a tireless booster
an astronaut. He doesnt read science ction or says. Youre havin a laugh. If you want to for the benefits of extraplanetary free enter-
quote Star Wars. And while he believes asteroid escape gravity they suggest Magnetic Hill, prise. Hes the literary executor to the estate of
mining will attract other NewSpace business amysterious stretch of road that cars roll up, in legendary sci- author Robert Heinlein, and
to Luxembourg and eventually become amajor seeming deance of natural law. Its a strange was also a trailblazing space entrepreneur. In
industry in its own right, he is forthright that for place. And when Manannns Cloak the 1982, he helped launch the rst private US space
the time being his investment serves another thick sea fog that is said to hide the island from rocket, the Conestoga, and set up a company to
purpose. Now we are on the board of a US com- unwanted visitors comes rolling in, you can sell launches on Soviet rockets to buyers in the
pany, says Schneider. I met Je Bezos. I met well imagine youre on another planet. West. (It sold one.) The businesses may not have
Larry Page. For Schneider, asteroid mining is Chris Machin, the 72-year-old president of been great successes, but Dula was way ahead
a terric networking opportunity. the Jurby Transport Museum, which houses the of the curve when it came to monetising the cos-
A two-and-a-half-hour ight northwest of programmes remnants amid a bunch of vin- mos, and this made him something of a celebrity
Luxembourg lies an even tinier tax haven that tage buses and trams in an old aircraft hangar, in space-obsessed Houston home of Nasas
126
six-gure awards to Elon Musk, Je Bezos and
Peter Diamandis (the other co-founder of Plan-
etary Resources) in recognition of their accom-
plishments in commercial space activities.
One eminent scientist I dont think anyone within that commu-
nity likes to be critical of anything, Malisow
calculated that the says of this tangled web of NewSpace acquaint-
asteroid belt between ances. And no one wants to speak openly even
if they do feel that way. So its incredibly easy
Mars and Jupiter has for people who are dreamers or just full of hot
air to stick around in perpetuity. He pauses to
enough resources to nd just the right analogy. It becomes one giant
support several tens of circle jerk.
of 2008 was still a few years o. Takafumi Horie, son, a founder of Deep Space Industries, gave never could. As the asteroid miners raise more
a wealthy Japanese internet entrepreneur, Dula a Pioneer of NewSpace award through funds and issue ever loftier pronouncements,
agreed to buy 75 per cent of Excalibur Almaz his Space Frontier Foundation in 2010. And its enough to make you wonder whether were
for $49m. Dula found a minority investor on a Dula himself, in his role as literary executor to witnessing the birth of a new gold rush, or the
cruise ship. When the spacecraft were shipped the Heinlein estate, has personally presented search for a nonexistent El Dorado.
Photographs by
Ana Cuba
128
Tods
Black leather
derby shoes, 415
Foot
130
Jimmy Choo
Blue woven suedepenny
loafers, 475
132
Styling: Catherine Hayward and Nick Sullivan | Photographers assistant: John Cronin | See Stockists page for details
133
Break from
thecrowd
in suits that say more:
with an unexpected
colour, a heathered
texture or a subtle stripe
134
Photographs by
Dusan Reljin
Fashion by
Nick Sullivan
NOT
BUSINESS
AS
USUAL
These are, shall we say, interesting times.
Aneraof bigly disruptions. But the more
theworld shifts around us, the more we value
the strength of a simple, impeccably cut suit.
And now that top fashion houses turn them
outas reliably as heritage tailors, youre
boundto find a style that works for you
135
Get the edge
with a tie that makes
astatement
Charcoal checked
wool jacket, 1,560;
pale blue cotton shirt,
290; blue/white
dotted silk tie, 140;
charcoal checked wool
trousers, 430, all by
Ralph Lauren Purple
Label. Brown leather
tasselled loafers,
935,by JohnLobb.
Black cotton socks,
20, by Pantherella
137
Find a
common
thread
when pairing
asuit and tie.
Here, abold red
stripe energises
a thin check of
thesamecolour
Navy/white/red
pin-dot cotton
suit, 1,540; red/
navy/blue silk
tie, 140, both
by Gucci. White
cotton shirt, 270,
by Jerey Rdes.
Stainless steel
Co-Axial Master
Chronometer on
navy leather strap,
6,240, byOmega
138
Take a
closerlook
at your suit fabric.
Mohair blends (like
thisone) will have
adark lustre
A fine town
Giorgio Armani
Light grey linen overcoat, 1,950; pale blue jacquard cotton shirt, 340; grey linen trousers,
from870;brown suede shoes, 490, all by GiorgioArmani
141
142
A bright spring morning in London, and
Aidan Gillen is standing outside a Soho club
being photographed for Esquire. Some pas-
sersby stop to see what the fuss is about and
take snaps of their own Game of Thrones cast
members command a high approval rating
on social media but Gillen seems unfazed.
Nowonder, perhaps: the location was his idea.
I knew Id feel comfortable hanging
around a few doorways in Soho in something
that looks cool, the 49-year-old Irishman tells
me later. Ive loved it here ever since I came
to London in the late Eighties. When youre
19 and working in theatre, you finish at 11
oclockand dont want to go home. So, Id hang
around here with all the gangsters and musi-
cians andtransvestites.
Since those days, Gillen has clocked up
18years starring in landmark television, from There is little point pressing seasoned
1999s groundbreaking drama Queer as Folk to Game of Thrones cast members for spoilers
TV-as-art touchstone The Wire to the afore- HBO keeps an assassins arrow trained on
mentioned, really rather popular dragons and them at all times but Gillen does let asmall
death fest. This summer, Gillen returns as con- hint slip when I mention audiences missing the
niving social climber Petyr Baelish, aka Little- scenes with his early sparring partner Varys
nger, one of the few characters to appear in all (played by Conleth Hill). Well, you might see
seven series of Game of Thrones and one of the that again, you never know he says with
fewer still who are genuinely complex. atrace of Littlengers sly smile on his lips.
If the audience isnt sure whether they Its no stretch to suggest that the phenom-
like you, youre probably doing the job right, enal success of Game of Thrones has made the
he says. The amount of treachery Ive been lm were notionally here to talk about possi-
involved with now, theyve got plenty of rea- ble: Guy Ritchies King Arthur: Legend of the
sons to hate Littlenger. But my job is to keep Sword is amedieval fantasy epic with plenty
them on-side. of blood and thunder. I see it as a gang caper,
Game of Thrones has made Gillens face and my character is one of the gang, says
internationally recognisable, especially when Gillenof Goosefat Bill, the hitman who accom-
hes in the company of his co-stars. Its one panies Arthur on his adventures. Obvi-
thing for a Game of Thrones fan to see one cast ously, Im supremely talented with a bow
member, but try having a game of pool in Bel- and arrow, which helped. And you also see a
fast with Gwendoline Christie and Kit Haring- snake roar at one point, which Ithought was
ton he says. They go crazy! arealinnovation.
He seems to be taking all this high-prole
success in his stride. My rst director said,
Dont be in a hurry to be getting to the top of
the ladder, because the best bit is the journey.
Which I think is important whatever you do.
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