Rebuilding the K Jetronic Alloy adjustable Fuel distributor
When do you have to rebuild your K Jetronic fuel distributor
‘When do you rebuild the K Jetronic fuel distributor
1. If the fuel distributor has an unequal flow from each port and can't be adjusted.
2. If youhave tumed the CO 3mm Allen screw of the mixture control unit to its maximum position
{anti clockwise) and you still have flow on each port (The membrane is porous or has holes)
3. Ifthe plunger is stuck
4. Ifthe fuel distributor is leaking fuel
In General
Bosch doesn’t suppor the rebuilding of fuel distributors. Ifyou decide to rebuild your fuel distributor you
do this at your own risk, Rebuilding a fuel distributor is a precise job,
As far as we know all the K jetronic alloy fuel distributor are adjustable. This instruction is only for the
adjustable alloy fuel distributor.
Disassembling,
Remove the fuel distributor from your car. Be careful because there will be some fuel pressure on all
‘openings. Use a towel or cloth to catch the fuel that will come out. Make a photo or drawing to be sure
‘where all the fuel lines ate attached. Remove all the banjo bolts or struts on top ancl on the side of the fuel
listributor, Remove the (tors) screws on top and remove the fuel distributor from the mixture control
‘unit. See picture
‘These pictures are taken from a six cylinder fuel distributor but if you have a four or eight eylinder fuel
distributor there will be some differences but in general the whole procedure is the same.
Tocation fuel lines location torx screws
(pictures are taken from a KE distributor)
‘Tum the fuel distributor upside down. Remove the Torx serews and central plunger house screw at the
bottom. The torx screws are size 2ST. Some 6 eylinder models have also torx screws on top. Remove the
plunger very careful (don’t drop it on the floor)bottom Torx and central screw
‘The upper and lower halve will often stick together. Never drive in a screwdriver on the side between
‘both halves to open the FD because this will harm the housing. The alloy is to soft for this. Tum in (a few
turns to avoid damage to the threads) two MS screws with the top of the screw 2mm above the housing.
‘Hammer with a nylon hammer on top of both screws to open it. When the fuel distributor has a small gap
‘you can open it by pulling both halves by hand don’t use a screwdriver to wigale, IF is open you can
‘open it further by removing the two screws and pull and hammer atthe plunger house, Don’t twist the
halves because it can damage or deform the springs inside,
Splitting bath halves
Split in halfRemove the plunger house by using a nylon hammer when it doesn’t come out by hand! force. When the
plunger house is stuck in the lower half you can hartmer on the (bottom) thread side. When it is stuck in
‘the upper halve install the lower halve again with the central screw (without springs etc) and hammer
from the top on the lower halve. When the plunger house starts moving careful pull the plunger house by
hand and hammer on the body (never on the ports). Use always a nylon hammer.
‘Measuring the springs
‘The springs inside the fuel distributor are very important. The fuel pressure inside the lower chamber and:
‘upper chamber is regulated with these springs. The fuel pressure inthe lower chamber is equal to the
system pressure regulated by the pressure regulator inside the fuel distributor. When the plunger is
‘moving up and the metering slits open the upper chambers are filled with fuel. The springs will open the
pportand the fuel will flow to the injectors, The springs represent a pressure of 0.1 bar. The result is that
‘when you have a 5 bar pressure inside the lower chamber the upper chamber will have a pressure of S +
11 bar and the port to the injector will open. The pressure will drop immediately to 5 bar again because
the fuel is send to the injector and the pressure will rise and drop again, This is also called differential
pressure. You ean also hear it when you run the car in “safe mode” by a high whistle, This is the Way the
fuel distributor is measuring the fuel flow to the injectors
‘A standard (new) spring has a diameter of 9.8mm and a length of 11mm. Most springs are somewhat
‘compressed over the years, This is not a problem because they are adjustable and because of that they’
con't effect the differential pressure, If the height is shrank under the 10 mm you have to replace the
springs.
How to set the springs in mm
‘Most lower and upper chambers have a diameter of 25 mm. The surface of the chamber is x*25 is 49
cem2, A pressure of 0.1 bar is 100 gram/em2 To have a preset 0.1 bar pressure on the diaphragm you need
tot have 490 grams weight pressing on the diaphragm plate. This equals to compressing the standard
spring with 4.2 mm, You can check this by putting the spring on a postal balance. Compress the spring,
with 4.2 mm on the postal balance and read the spring tension in weight.
How to set the springs in inch
‘Most lower and upper chambers have a diameter of 1 inch. The surface of the chamber is =* ("2 * 1)
inch square is 0,78 square inch . A pressure of 0.1 bar (1,49 PSI) is 24 ounce square inch. To have a
preset 1.49 psi pressure on the diaphragm you need tot have 19 ounce weight pressing on the diaphragm
plate, This equals to compressing the spring with 0,165 inch, You can check this by putting the spring on
‘ postal balance. Compress the spring with 0.165 inch on the postal balance and read the spring tension in
weight.
Start with measuring the spring position from the outside, Remove the Allen caps (3.5mm Allen) to get to
the adjustable screws (3mm Allen). Measure the distance between the top of the port and the adjustment
screw based on a distance of the spring plate of 4.2 mm. Number all the ports and write down the distance
from the outside for each port. You need! this distance later.
Set the distance of the spring plate to 4.2 mm or 0.165 inch from the top of the halves (see picture) It is
very important to set this distance for every port at the same height. Only then you will get the same