How to Draft a Two-Piece Jacket

Sleeve From a One-Piece Pattern

n Threads #182 (Dec. 2015/Jan. 2016), Jacque Goldsmith shared her
technique forcreating a functional vent on a lined sleeve. This technique
requires a back sleeve seam, which a one-piece sleeve pattern lacks. Here,
well show you how to create a two-piece sleeve from a one-piece sleeve
pattern.
A two-piece sleeve provides a more refined shape than a one-piece sleeve.
The extra seam is an added shaping opportunity, as it offers twice as many
seams to adjust for a better fit. Many jacket and coat patterns are designed
with one-piece sleeves, but this doesnt mean that everything about the
pattern is wrong. If you like the jackets other design elements but want the
fitting finesse of a two-piece sleeve, as well as a place to add a functional
sleeve vent, its possible to create a two-piece sleeve pattern from a one-piece
sleeve pattern.

Drafting a two-piece sleeve is not an exact technique, and personal

preference enters in, but the results can be satisfactory. All it requires is
patience, judgment, and this easy-to-follow method.

This is a better solution than attempting to use the sleeve pattern from another
jacket, as that requires using the armscye from the other pattern, too, and
transferring the armscye (which usually involves three pattern pieces). It is a
trickier job than redrawing the sleeve.

Converting offset-seam sleeves

There are two types of one-piece sleeves: the typical centered-underarm
sleeve, and the less-typical sleeve with the seam offset toward the back of the
underarm. The latter type gives the appearance of a two-piece sleeve. It is
also the easiest to convert and is covered first. The symmetrical sleeve with
the seam at the underarm is more common. The procedure for converting it is
slightly more complex, but its not difficult.
1. Press the pattern. Draw a line through the underarm mark, which all
American-made patterns have, parallel to the grainline and the length of the

pattern. 2. Draw a parallel line 2

inches from the first line and from armscye to
hemline. 3. Measure 34 inch to either
side of the new line at the elbow. Draw identical curved lines from the
seamline to the hemline through the marked points. Use a curved ruler,
follow a favorite two-piece sleeve pattern, or eyeball it. Mark these as
stitching lines. 4. Cut the pattern on
the curved lines, and add a 58-inch seam allowance to each. Check the
sleeve width at the hemline. About 10 inches is typical for a size 12: 6 inches
on the upper sleeve and 4 inches on the undersleeve. If necessary, narrow the
wrist by redrawing the vent seamlines: Take off half the distance (usually
about 2 inches overall) on each side by tapering the seams gradually from the
armscye to the elbow, then taper more sharply from elbow to wrist. In a size
12, there should be about 2 inches from the underarm line to the vent
placement line. If the vent falls too far underneath, add to the undersleeve and
take off from the upper sleeve, keeping a nice curve in the

process.

Converting symmetrical sleeves

1. Trace the pattern without seam allowances, transferring all
markings. Cut the pattern on the stitching lines.

2. On the tracing, measure 2 inches in at the end of the front armsyce

seam, and 3-12 inches to 4 inches from the back seam. Draw vertical lines
parallel to the grain from the armscye to the hem. Some patterns are so
narrow at the hem that the vertical lines hit the side seams before reaching the
hem. If only one line hits a side seam, dont do anything. If both lines hit, add
tissue so you can redraw the side seams wide enough for the vertical lines to
reach the hem. Cut the tracing apart on these lines; tape the end pieceswhich
become the undersleevetogether on the original seamline, matching notches.
 3. On the oversleeve, measure 34
inch in at the elbow in front, and 3 inches in at the hem in back. Connect
the armscye to the hem through these points, using a curved ruler. Drop the
back seam 58 inch for ease if desired.
4. On the undersleeve, drop new grainlines from the armscye seam ends
to the hemline. Measure out from the front hem 1 inch to 1-12 inches and in
from the back hem 2 inches. Connect the new points to the armsyce, using a
curved ruler. Correct the hem width if

necessary.
5. Add seam and hem allowances to all edges. Draft cut-on facings for
vents.
Will you try this technique? Share your thoughts by leaving a comment.