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    printed textiles

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
    Flag for inappropriate content
    10 views11 pages

    7

    Uploaded by

    Shivangi Sipani
    printed textiles

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
    Flag for inappropriate content
    of 11
    one Block PRINTING Ar PRINTED TEXTILE ¥ 3 K PRINTING. i “The most Important centers. for block printing are Sanganer, Akole, Jaipur, sihany Anjar, Decsa, Ahmedabad, Jetpur, Rajkot, Porbander and Bhavnagar, in ‘Gujarat and Bagh in Madhya Pradesh. in Gujarat and western Rjasthan the main typeof hand block printed textiles are LE Direct block printing \2- Resist method of printing using blocks (Dabu & Ajrakh) <3 Roghan printing Gold dust printing | | | Barner and 57 Gold leaf painting History "Block printing is believed to have originated in Ching towards early 3rd century. Records ‘ounirigs were also found around the 4th century, of its presence in Egypt and some Asian from where i to. Europe.and.ot © Guiarat: Gujarat was one ¢ Guiara’s block-printed textiles has which dates back to the 15" century or earlier. Hand printed testiles.1 heir. ane indi, ‘Gujarat are made ors left Sind by Hindu and Mustim, Khatris. Many of these Shatris claim. th fs conquest by.the. Arabs.in the 18" oentury. Aland, sett) her Rajasthan: Hand block. printing in Rajasthan js.centuries old. The origin. of printing.in This site is no clearly known. Some printers say thatthe, hand block printing Rajasthan suas stated by printers who migrated from Gujarat, Others say that they are the disciples of Namday sig art in the state and thus the art find its ori | ofN xe responsible for starting this art Ta Mahanashirg. | BLOCK PRINTING IN RAJASTHAN | Block printing is practiced in many areas of Rajasthan, each area having schemes and designs. About $0,000 meters.of goth in beautiful designs are printed daily in aout 500 hand_biock-psinting. units, spread. in Reigsthan. Since tradition decrees that exalt skills be passed down the generations, from parent to child, the expertise remains within the family and people engaged in this ttade form an identifiable group called the Chhipa communis SRUERe rocess of produetion needs plenty of water and open space, printing centres came up near the banks of rivers. Sanganer, Bagru, Kaladera, Jairampura, Akola Nathdwara, Balotra, Jodhpur, Jaipur, Bassi and Udaipar are important printing centres in Rajasthan “ Sanganer: Sanganer, presently the urban Timits of the Jaipur city is an important printing . centre known for its ens phe town was founded by Sangaji, ¢ Kachhawa,Rajput and ee wh ina is situated on the batiks“or Me seasonal river, Sarasy afiich originates from “Amani ct ShalKaNautal’ The river was th ie ‘of water for the printers of SangaliePAAO™™, yy Wat mown for kts special quality that used to bring out radiance from the natural dyed Bed Fabric, but unfortunately it is seasonal and dries up in the summer. The block printed i textiles of Sanganer became famous in the 16" and_ 12" centuries in, Burope,.when the East India Company began to export them in bulk. Today, there are over 154 printing units in Sanganet, and these, employ around 20.000.people=O Fin. they einploy | fhe technique ot galico printing. In this, the outlines are. [gst pe Hy after that, are she colors filed in, These deshios ae. then repeated nt zonal rowsh | roakhir “syle of printings also pupilarn Sanganks, THis Is prinling done on both located at a distance of 30 kins east of Jaipur, on Jaipur- ‘Bagora ka Tapaa’” the village is situated on the banks ‘of Bagru have assembled here from Sawai Madhopur, Il ‘own colour | | | | | | Bagru: Baer is a smali village, ‘Aime Road. Formerly known as, of the seasonal river. The “ghhij “lat duninugs and Sika strets of Rasa set in BBN and make it their home ‘some 300 years ago. Bagru is derived from the ‘word? Bagora’ the name of an island ina } re the city was originally built and is fama for ts palm foo, and “ehint2” (fadat), Fonpatier, There are around 80 printing units in Bagru Bal boadar and was once. the capita of. Keradue Badmeris located on the Indo Jain temple. Keradu was... famous, natural dye printing ‘centre ine sh 7 ee aeons a0 printers a0 thousand: yple. shifted, from, Kerae followed them and thus ty was shifted from Keradunje Bad ohed Ine Jocal pond [Naragasarh The printers Nine td paar “Boies. ‘and prinied fabries are, w feel that the pond Sater ‘Bited with divine power which brings an unmatched sheen on their products, Therefore, in spite of being ‘prossly contaminated and polluted, the printers remain sentimentally attached to it and do not allow it to be cleaned scientifically. “jatakh, which is the angst popular, item. in Badmer prints, is a resistadyed.Sabele Coed’ z sheets and dress. material) printed in bold designs invred, blue and. black with. a peculiar amarind seed powdey and fim are used to podluce the resist effect, the pl Process of P Lu "Wood carvers carve raised designs on the wooden blocks. During printing, these carved wooden blocks are dipped onto ‘the dye paste and pressed onto the cloth, which has been Mretched across a low level printing table. Like this the printers very quickly fill up the row df design repeat on textile material. The pros: ss of production is highly time-consuming Various steps involved in the production of Sangane™ ‘and Bagru prints. aeemmeeee \ Lae, The fabric is out to the required manageable sizes; 5 mts for a.sari, ‘ys for bed shesssand 26 x 36 inches, 36 x 60 inches or 40 x 60 inches for fable, covers. Hari Saruaaprocess of seguring): The cloth. Whi bee printed, is soaked in poat/ oe! gow. pe Goff ang, miged with cold water ovsmighl tia 1 a, ation of colour. About, 38 kys of dung is suffigient for 1o0.mts.ofcloth, pai (oleaching): The fabric is Jaken-to.the banks of the river the morning, ands, | sad on. the. sand_under, bright sur in nly. to keep the | 2.25 to 2.50 -and dried. “Sprea ‘fabric, moist, The fabric.1s ign. washed thoroughly. 11. ‘iver and The provesses_of hay] surana, and tapal at eq ill the required whiteness. is. achieved, (Efficiency can be “detected by sprinl “+ onto the fabric, if it absorbs + dyeing and printing or else degumming needs 0 be done “Within a second, it is ready for and {jms,.conswuniles 5 days. Since it ig tedious again). The entire process takes, about, 4:5, 6835; caps have FeplaesiNs £00. i REDS, | availa Karana.ov Poela Karna, (gorsanth sohplan): The bleached cloth i | mgms.of hatda.powsiss pst titre of water) overnt it yrdant_and soaked. in.a.solutior Emyrnbolan, (20. 2ms.c that jt fun Myrobolan is tich jn.tannim: itgols as ‘Tevelop. the black colour Gsiahij; Yanni ats the mordants, which.2 ‘with, hand woodblock, The cloth is thereafter squeezed ad Teft Tat_on the ground. tor eying, inthe sun till such sing that the cloth becomes hot, Atfer drying the upper side of thecloth absorbs the printing paste. well and the printed, Thotifs appear. sharwer and darker. Pela Sharna (dusting oth se ‘superTlugus.anscobolan.pasiler) “This harda. treated, cloths | “Pentel and Kieaded on a. thick, like the dobhi, washing. secaiaue). ‘The | jprocess distributes the myrobolan evenly and removes creases ‘and wrinkles formed | uring the myrobolan treatment. The fabric is then sh" ead under the bright sunlight for 3- uring the jected and agri beaten, but this time delientely with & wooden bat to dust off the superfluously held myrobolan particles (S—Chappui.or Printing: Printing is done in the following stages: 2” Bok Chhangizet he outlines of the designs are printed first, in a deep colour, usually ‘black. Chiru: The details adjacent to the outfine are printed next | Chiat (eo Bata This is the filling in of soesesigas with different. colours. Thus designs are printed using wooden blocks with the guiling.ty Ki As it smmediately. shows a black impression, it is easy for anoiber orinter to place theafilier sae lnteca vith bepgar gr alu. The pagkground black {Gud Joomes ter UT ineifed the Block is dipped in the paste and then pressed direetly on the pre-reated fabric. This does not involve any resist anda) dyeing procedures are rpessary. The printing paste is poured into trays known 23. sa. 4A. bam boo ne, chip Kambal ki gacidi is Spread ‘Overt. placed in the wooden fray and a coarse woolen cloths, “hflg prevents excess colour froAr rising to the surface “hid erisures that the block picks up the dye evenly. Dried fabric is spread out on Mat, softly padded woolen tables and printing is begun from one end. The block is lightly pressed on the. printing Mie Containing, begar.and.siahi.and then pressed on the fuori. transfering ts impreston 0 cathe magsral The process fs repeated, taking care to ensure the block’s align with each eter over the entire cloth, Each colour in the design requires repetition with individual Becks ‘The printed cloth is dried and washed again to remove the gum that was added ‘as the last stage, the fabric.is dried in.the sun. whijg printing. Finally, produces a_range of red culuur cranging, from pink. to,desn.1¢-o6S0UCh ter, gum Arabic and_20 fabris); it comprises of 50 gms of alum dissolved. (ig, water, gt ms of geru the latter js added For unting “purpose only.. When itis appliedon.a, ihyroboTan treated Tab, which is subseguen tly dyed with, alizarin, bright red colour is Fromuced. CSiahifis the local name of the liquor for-black.salout. About 20 kes of rusted. iron, Pieges are taken, burnt on the fire, cleaned, and KEI in arge earthen, pot together with FSS St iagcery. and 40-50 lites of water, The mouth of the pot is tied firmly witha muslin cloth and the mixture 1s “allowed to stand for 3 weeks with inter ‘mittent stirring, To check whether the fermentation process has been successfully completed, a drop of the fermented liquor from the pot is placed over the myrobolan treated fabric; if proper depth of black colour is produced fermentation process is considered to be completed otherwise more jaggery Is added to the paste and the fermentation continued for another week, For printing with this xiail.the’ paste huthe, required ‘consistency, is prepared, by, adding. adeasats, amMgunts, ot cof gum_Arabic.paste.{T part of ‘gum Arabic soaked in | part of water fo hu). Suki (Agaiag): Ageing-locelly called {SukliakThe printed fabric is left hanging at the ‘printing areas for’ at least three-four. days so, thet the mordant paste penetrates into the fiber structure. Longer the ageing better.is the. result \Lse"Dhul Washing), Tre printed fabric is washed in running water to get rid of excess ‘mordant. It is important to understand the need of running/Clowing water. While washing the printed fabric in running water the excess mordants,come out and get washed away cre the flow of water without getting stuck back tothe cloth, Water shortage tis forced the printers to cut short this process due to wihich, the eolors do not get fixed up properly ‘and later “bleed” and people think that natural dyes are not fast, Chad (developing various colours): ‘The natural dye, reacts with. different: Tordants (iron an alum) to give two different coloufs; rah (ish alum) ‘and black (with hus to make, begai Apnea "fed and 1G make. the black, colour fast, the cloth is fivous). (aedin. ghar ‘Copper vessels, Gambri-are used for dyeing, as these have no after effects on the colours is ‘or hig purpose water is hewtee'th, he cloth, If iron tub is used it eaves a blackish hus, i th-bags,(‘potali’) is dipped in th ‘a large-copper tub, Al wood (alizarn) filled in smell. e ‘Vessal when the water 1s tolerably hot (50°C), dhawada flowers are added.and the,cloth to ted is soaked in this water, A piece STAT we0d is tis be printed. Pickin loth submerged in she tub, The eloth and this knot are frequently su red. The merees ining the “Being process takes two to 3 hours, The dhawada Mowers help 10 layoid st unprinted ground, a “Oiie’ the “dyed fabric. is ready. (usually, it “Vessel and left on.the.graund-for-drying id hs” \gerépai (gun bicashingy: Alizarin often! over dyes, tne unprinted area giving an offewhite cea age all ove te Tbe wij. makes The BLAS SE Te order to make the rine process the fabric is laid fa Ground Took ‘whiie™ again the fab fe 1s sun-bleached..h i treed waiet is sprinkled over the fabile, TNs ii (of cow dung) ona river bed, amnild solution, of. 20' ig. “SPSSESS TS Tepeated again, ‘whenethg fabric.is dried. The inleracth ur ‘ermal heat Gun fay) bleach. the, i ke white _ag ond Tee TRE PIECE eared out ie em Chard) ati to his process is cut short and these days the ‘off: white’ color of the shortage of water t snd has become a part of natural dyeing process xd with alum, to make the backgrou (U-Pitharl Ranga, (posmordantig: “The fabsig, maybe, treate Yellow dye fast. pseccitan- on sixth day its yashed in flowing water, Thorot gh washing, is essential “16 Ten “ginal hoasel.ned. gala ais this is not removed then the particles gph, out-during che, provess, of fixation. arr HONE ATE pea ace emanems pushséorsalus- After thisitis local printers to work exclusive wve been influenced by Islamic ss, silverware and Motifs Royal patronage in Jaipur and Jodhpur encouraged I designs on various garments. Motifs used in this rosiet, ha sera id ths floral designs are often associated with other crafts like bra marbles. “The Rajasthan’ crafisperson usually creates a motif ak is & combination of flower, bud and Teayes or other forms such as keri (mango), pan (betel Jeaf), katar (bagger) or jhumka (ear ring), Thus all the designs are named after ‘vegetables, birds or animals and other objects of Fine a notable feature of the region’s printing tradition 15 that animal motifs are not used fon fabric meant for costumes. ‘The pattems or designs/motifs which are traditionally made in Rajasthan can be classified as “poota’, bootie!-andily sae iris normally referred to as design which is single and complete in itgglf, The word

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