THE DISH

ICONIC MADISON
 THE DISH

ICONIC MADISON

17

21

21

26
26 31

the dish guide to beer 5 the crown jewel of brewing 6 is there a challenger to spotted cow? 7 flourless chocolate stout cookies 8
late night menus in madison 9 thank god it’s fish fry friday 13 slow and steady 17 wisconsin supper clubs: timE capsules
of retro culture 19 a taste of iconic madison: chef tory miller 21 my iconic madison 25 food fight 26 last course 31

1 |THE DISH ICONIC MADISON | 2

 Letter From the editor
Editor-in-Chief
Daniella Byck

Community Editor Dear Readers,

Karim Nassef
Unsurprisingly, the milestones of my time in Madison
Features Editor are marked by food. But no dish soars across my
Sam Karny college experience quite like a heaping bowl of pho.

Art Director Winding fluffy scarves around our necks, Sundays

Zoey Rugel once meant collecting a group of friends and slurping
warm noodles on State Street. The weekly tradition
Media & Marketing Director was a moment for joint celebration and commiseration
Carli Gordon as we shuffled tubs of salty hoisin and fiery Sriracha
across the table. Even on the final home football game
of our college careers, we toasted the end of game
Writers
days with tangy limes squeezed into steaming bowls
Lauren Anders, Claire Burden, Daniella Byck, Julia
of broth.
Gilban-Cohen, Sam Karny, Abbey Meyer, Alexa Miller,
Chikako Seike, Libby Schnepf, Genevieve Vahl
Throughout four years, that Sunday pho group
has transformed into my support system and my
Photographers
soulmates. I no longer watch the passersby through
Claire Burden, Daniella Byck, Ally Dweck, Carli
the wide paned windows. Instead, I find myself
Gordon, Codie Heinemann, Devin Kelly
watching as my friends grow into the kind of strong,
authentic women who inspire deep admiration within
Illustrator
me. Pho remains an iconic fixture of my Madison
Lily Oberstein experience because that Sunday ritual bonded us
together and that togetherness has transformed me.
Layout
Codie Heinemann, Zoey Rugel The Spring 2018 edition of The Dish is a fitting
tribute to the city where I fell in love with the
Social Media stories told through the kitchen and at the table. It
Carli Gordon, Ava Pretzer, Izzy Schack focuses on the people, food and feelings that mold the
iconography of Madison’s dining scene. As a city with
Cover Photo a uniquely intertwined culinary culture, those stories
Sam Karny are often rich, multidimensional representations
of food as a bold unifier for local producers, chefs,
WUD Publications Committee Director restaurants and the community at large. As your
Malik Anderson eyes feast on this edition, I hope you take a moment
to reflect on the iconic meals that encompass your
WUD Publications Committee Advisor culinary memory. After all, food does more than
Jim Rogers satiate our hunger: it nourishes our souls.

Wisconsin Union President

Iffat Bhuiyan Daniella Byck

3 |THE DISH ICONIC MADISON | 4

THE DISH
Guide to Beer
A Guide to Hops
The Crown JewEl of Brewing
by abbey meyer | photos by daniella byck
D espite being seen on beer
commercials, the fine print
of a beer list in restaurants and
bar and brewery pamphlets
around the country, the term
“hops” is only a vaguely familiar
concept to most novice beer drinkers.
“Hops” are taken from a hop
plant, which is a vine-like plant
whose flower is added to the
other ingredients of beer—
malted barley, yeast and water­—
to enhance the flavor and depth
of your favorite brew. The resin
in hops tend to naturally increase
the alcohol content which helps
protect the beer from becoming
rancid. In fact, India Pale Ale was
developed to solve the problem
of skunky beer being shipped to
British soldiers serving in India.
English brewers added more
hops to the beer prior to shipping
5 |THE DISH
to keep it fresh, which also
increased the alcohol content.
Dubbed the India Pale Ale,
it remained very popular for
returning soldiers.
Hops also balances out the malts,
another key ingredient in making
beer, and acts as a natural filter.
Today, there are hundreds of
different hops available. Hops
help the brewmaster give their
brew a unique flavor profile,
most of which were developed in
the last thirty years. Each type of
hops fits into one of three categories:
aroma hops, bitter hops and
dual-purpose hops. Aroma hops
have a lower alpha acid percentage
and an oil profile associated with
good aroma. These hops are
generally used as finishing or
conditioning hops. Bitter hops
have a higher alpha acid percentage.
Chinook, Cascade and Centennial
hops, otherwise known as The
“Cs,” are Aroma hops which help
to create wonderful aromatic
beers and are used in many of the
American IPAs. Other types of
hops include Hallertauer, a very
mild, pleasant hop used in lighter
beers like Lagers and Pilsners and
Perle, which is grown in the U.S.
and Germany to make porters and
stouts.
Hops are a wonderful addition
to the brewing process. Without
hops, the beer industry would
not be as successful as it is
today. Take a sip of your Spotted
Cow and admire the views of
Memorial Terrace, but remember
the Vienna hops that were
incorporated to give your brew
the advertised “fun and fruity”
flavor you love! e
ICONIC MADISON | 6
 Flourless
Is there a challenger Chocolate
to spotted cow?
Stout
by julia Gilban-Cohen
photo by daniella byck
Cookies
“Beer culture dips into everything Wisconsinites do” Photos by Codie Heinemann Time: 35 min
Yield: 16-18 cookies
Ingredients
2 large eggs
“B eer culture dips
into everything
Wisconsinites do,”
they think about
Wisconsin, but Capitol
Amber is actually one
1 teaspoon salt
3 ¾ cups powdered sugar
said Zach Connors, a of our bestsellers.” 1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
Catering Representative The description 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
for the Madison on Tap of The Wisconsin 2 tablespoons stout beer
Craft Beer Festival. “It’s Amber presented on 1 cup chocolate chips
exciting because people capitalbrewery.com
get so many options,” stated that the beer is a Directions
Connors said, “they’re rich amber lager, with 1. Separate the egg yolks from the whites.
just excited to try new “the perfect balance of
2. Add the salt to the whites and beat the
things and find a couple roasted caramel malts
whites until light and frothy.
[of beers] that they and clean hops flavors.”
didn’t know about and Connors said that 3. Add ½ cup powdered sugar to the whites,
like.” whenever Madison on beat until firm.
Tap provided specialty 4. Add the remaining powdered sugar and
The festival occured or premium beers, the cocoa powder, stir until combined.
in March at the company almost always
5. Stir in the beer and egg yolks until well
Alliant Energy Center picks The Wisconsin combined. Stir in the chocolate chips.
and offered over 150 Amber.
samples of craft beers 6. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
from more than 70 “Spotted Cow just has 7. Freeze for 10 minutes. Preheat the oven
breweries—the myriad such a reputation,” to 375.
of options presented Connors claimed.
8. Bake for 14 minutes.
a challenge for what “People think of it as
Wisconsin’s iconic beer being better because it’s 9. Pull the parchment onto the counter to allow
may be. According iconic, and it’s good, it the cookies to cool.
to Conners, “Spotted is, but there are other
Cow is the main beer great, iconic Wisconsin
people think of when beers, too.” e For more beer infused recipes vist thebeeroness.com

7 |THE DISH ICONIC MADISON | 8

Late Night Menus In Madison
A new take on the midnight snack, Madison’s late night menus are sure to make your stomach growl By Lauren Anders Photos by Devin kelly
O ne might think that the only restaurants that
are open on a late Friday or Saturday night
would be the stereotypical pizza places. For college
kids, this means sitting on the floors of our tiled
dorms or slightly uncomfortable futons, grabbing
a piece of pizza while mastering the art of texting
and eating.
Although pizza is always there to “hit the spot” for
our late night cravings, are we only eating it because
it’s available? What if there was a way to have
quality food and a fun atmosphere for a great price;
at any time in Madison? Your prayers have been
answered.
Recently many restaurants have started featuring
late night menus; just because the dinner menu is
no longer available doesn’t necessarily mean the
kitchen is closed. I decided to try late night eats out
for myself and went to Tornado Steakhouse, which
sits just south of the Capitol building.
Walking in, the wood paneling, ceiling beams
and painted words of wisdom were all carried
throughout the dining room and bar. Along with an
old-timey interior, the restaurant serves a traditional
steakhouse menu. I was amazed to notice the array
of diners and not one phone out during a meal.
The only “emojis” visible were the legitimate facial
expressions on people’s faces, simply enjoying each
other’s company. This might sound old-school but
as someone who values face-to-face conversation, I
knew this was going to be an experience.
The late night menu is open from 10pm to 1am
9 |THE DISH
and it does not disappoint. I sat down with General
Manager, Dale Bartnick of Tornado Steakhouse to
understand the creativity behind the late night
menu.
“Lots of our guests asked for us to stay open later.
Our thinking behind our late night menu was to
continue, keeping things light but making you full,”
Bartnick said.
Dishes like the Steak Sandwich, Sirloin Steak and
Coquille St. Jacques are their biggest hits.
“We have something for everyone. Whether a UW
student or a Madison local, there is something for
everyone at a cheaper price and much better than
the cold pizza many people tend to settle with.”
Of course, I had to see for what all the rave was
about. I decided to try the Steak Sandwich—a beef
tenderloin served au jus with sauteéd onion &
horseradish cream. The steak was tender and juicy,
the onions were sweet to balance out the little kick
of horseradish, and the fresh bun made each bite
better than the last. Also, for a substantial portion,
it was $9.00—I was tempted to order two more
for the ride home. What set the bar even higher
on this meal was the service and the atmosphere,
nothing but friendly and attentive. Service makes a
restaurant go from great to exceptional. Although
the food might be spectacular, the service is what
makes your experience memorable.
“You aren’t going to be stuffing your face from 10
p.m. to 1 a.m. with this much class anywhere else,”
said a customer.
ICONIC MADISON | 10
 If you’re looking for some other late night menus
across Madison, here are a couple for you to write
down for your culinary bucket list:

1. Forequarter:
A trendy restaurant featuring
seasonal menus. Late night
menus are Friday and Saturday
from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. and has
Cheeseburgers, to Tacos, and even
Vegetable Crudité.

2. Tavernakaya:
This late night menu is available
on Fridays and Saturdays from 10
p.m. to 1 a.m.. Some featured items
are Pork Buns, Spicy Tuna Pizza,
and Tempura Cheese Curds. Their
“tapas” style (little plates to share)
gives off their upscale but casual
Asian restaurant vibe.

3. Tempest Oyster Bar:

If you’re craving seafood, you’ll
be sure to check out this sleek,
stylish restaurant with live music
on weekends.The late night menu
has some of the old school classics:
Shrimp or Oyster Po’boy, Oysters
Rockefeller, and finger foods such
as Shrimp Cocktail or just some
classic fries. e

11 | T H E D I S H ICONIC MADISON | 12
THANK GOD IT S
FISH FRY FRIDAY
BY DANIELLA BYCK | PHOTOS BY DANIELLA BYCK
M ike Seidel originally considered
himself a “prime rib connoisseur.”
Growing up in Viroqua, Wisconsin,
Seidel’s family adhered to the Wisconsin
ritual of fish fry on Friday and prime
rib on Saturday. For Seidel, the thick
indulgence of a prime rib was preferable
to transporting their fish home in
squeaky styrofoam containers. After the
2-mile pilgrimage home, Seidel would pop
open the container lid and bask in the
rising steam. However, his fingers would
meet a crumbling beer batter made
damp by the warm air captured in the
styrofoam. To avoid this ill fate, a young
Seidel quickly learned to order a more
mobile fish such as poor man’s lobster, a
baked alternative without the mercurial
batter.
“It’s not the same as sitting at a
restaurant, getting a fresh, steaming plate
of fish. Chowing it down and burning
the roof of your mouth and slugging
your beer down to quell it,” said Seidel.
13 | T H E D I S H
Despite auspicious beginnings, the Friday
fish fry would remain a steadfast weekly
tradition. After graduating from UW-
Madison in 2003, Seidel and a hometown
friend, Gabe Krambs, continued
FRIDAY FSH FRY IS
observing Friday fish fry at Fitzgerald’s SIMULTANEOUSLY
supper club in Middleton. Hoping to
expand their learning of the fish fry
gospel, the pair decided it was time to
discover new spots. However, they were SOUL REPLENISHING
dismayed to find limited information
available about local fish fries.
Emboldened by a mutual love of lists, AND THE SOUL
Seidel and his partner began journeying
to new fish fries and recording their
thoughts in an Excel sheet. Eventually,
the excel sheet turned into the website OF COMMUNITIES
Madison Fish Fry, a database of Wisconsin
fish fries with more than 1,200 of Seidel’s
reviews.
THEMSELVES
If you are looking to find Seidel on a
Friday, he is most likely tearing apart
flaky, golden fish with his fingers for and camaraderie. Friday fish fry is
both lunch and dinner. Many local simultaneously soul-replenishing and the
establishments have expanded their soul of communities themselves.
Friday night special to lunch due to its
iconography. For Wisconsinites, Friday “It’s barbers, it’s mechanics. They talk
fish fry is an opportunity to shake about their jobs, they talk about what’s
hands with your neighbors and toast to going on locally, they talk about the kid
the close of another week of hardwork that’s going to states in wrestling,” Seidel
ICONIC MADISON | 14

said. “I think for the local people it’s that camaraderie,
it’s that sharing, it’s a shared experience.”
The tradition of serving fish on a Friday stems from
German and Polish immigrants who avoided red
meat on Fridays during Lent by eating fish. During
the Prohibition era, the pungent aroma of an all-you-
can-eat fish fries served as a cover for establishments
serving alcohol. In the 21st century, Friday fish
fries remain a beloved staple of a uniquely
statewide tradition, spanning across the lifetimes of
Wisconsin’s citizenry.
“That’s the thing about fish fries. People for the
most part grew up eating them and you know, it
resonates deeply with them,” Seidel said. “And maybe
you don’t remember the exact fish you ate but you
remember how your dad smelled when you went to
the fish fry, you know? You remember the hat he
used to wear to the fish fry.”
15 | T H E D I S H
an academic and always begin by scoring the
fish, potato, tartar and bread on a scale of poor
to excellent. Excellent fish is flaky in texture
and powerful in seasoning, especially with a beer
batter. Fish fry folklore tells of many strategies for
achieving the most flavorful batter: cracking the
beer overnight and leaving it out to get stale, soaking
the cod in beer or dredging the filet in evaporated
milk before battering. Some restaurants hold their
fish fry to such high standards that the recipes and
strategies are relegated to sacred circles.
Though the fish may be at the center of the
tradition, it is the atmosphere that ultimately
separates a fish fry from a mere fish and chips
experience. Seidel began the Friday ritual with his
family and now brings his four-year-old son to for
“fish and french fries with dad” after school.
“I think the fish fry is kind of one of those things
where it’s a family thing, it’s a community thing. We
all come together to do it. And in it’s way it defines
us too,” Seidel said. “I think if people stop serving
fish on Friday, people would be lost,” Seidel said.
Fish fry is not just limited to Fridays. On a brisk
“ I THINK IF
night, Seidel is hunkered over the Wednesday special
at Jordan’s Big 10 Pub on Regent Street: crisp canoes
of breaded perch lay gently over shoestring fries
PEOPLE STOP
with acidic coleslaw and potent tartar sauce. Seidel
immediately points out the slice of rye bread, a nod
to classic Milwaukee fish fry tradition. He snaps a
photograph for the website’s Instagram with little
SERVING FISH
fanfare, insisting on presenting the dish exactly as it
was placed. Setting down the phone, he lifts a filet
of lake fish. Judgement day has arrived. ON FRIDAY,
“Me and my coworkers would go to Wilson’s every
Friday for lunch, pretty much. So I’ve eaten their fish
fry a hundred and thirty times? Something like that,”
Seidel said. “So they serve as my baseline. Everything
PEOPLE WOULD
is weighted against Wilson’s. So there’s a set number
on all those categories and I base everything else off
those experiences.”
Seidel’s reviews are processed with the mind of
BE LOST ”
A fter reviewing over 1,200 fish fries, Mike Seidel
has developed a system through which to
evaluate each component. “The perfect bite for me?
You’ve got spicy breading. A nice, flaky fish with no
grease. Just a thick tartar sauce that’s on there, kind
of a stanky punch to it,” Seidel said. “You’ve got to
get all three or four of those things melded together.
It’s just a flavor explosion.”
THE FISH
“Fish is far and away the most important thing.” As
the core of the experience, it is no surprise Seidel’s
first priority begins with the fish. Seidel believes
a true fish fry should include a variety of fish,
breadings and cooking methods. Additionally, the
fish itself should be light on the grease and heavy
on the flavor. Whether it be a salty punch or a
smoky finish, the batter should complement the fish
without completely masking its flavor. Bonus points
if there is a drawn butter candle to dunk crisp fish
into sweet butter.
THE SIDES
“For me it’s not a real fish fry unless you get a slice
of bread.” A range of side dish options also scores
points with Seidel. Be it a french fry or a pancake,
the comforting familiarness of a potato based dish
is always welcome. Additionally, coleslaw is often
found on the plate. Finally, Seidel appreciates a
chunk of rye bread, slathered with butter and
topped with a sliced onion. In Madison, the rye bread
is often replaced by a dinner roll.
THE TARTAR
“I want to be able to dunk the fish and try to shake
it and I don’t want it to go anywhere.” The tartar
sauce is the pièce de résistance, relying on a specific,
thick texture to elevate the fish fry experience.
Seidel prefers a tartar sauce that clings to the
fish. Ultimately, the tartar sauce should serve to
complement and enhance the other flavors on the
plate. e
ICONIC MADISON | 16
Slow and Steady
Slow Food’s quest for ‘good clean fair food’ for all Madisonians.
By Libby Schnepf | Photos by ashley hampton
A s students hustle to get out of the cold and
into their uninviting lecture hall chairs
on Wednesday afternoons, Slow Food student
volunteers in the basement of The Crossing (a
church on the UW campus) are taking it slow.
Tucked away in their homely cove, this
underground student-run organization advocates
for “good, clean, fair food for all” through service
outreach projects, hosting cooking workshops with
local chefs and most notably, serving community
meals.
This $5-8 sit-down meal is no bland grab-and-go
sandwich, rather a carefully curated selection of
salads, soups, sandwiches and desserts crafted with
local ingredients from a featured farmer, guaranteed
to satisfy your mid-afternoon slump. The most
recent Wednesday ‘cafe’ meal featured a grown-up
three cheese grilled cheese topped with caramelized
onions and sliced apples, borscht soup dotted with
house sour cream, a spicy mixed green salad drizzled
with a maple and mustard vinaigrette, finishing
with an orange, bourbon maple challah bread
pudding.
For first-time Slow Foodie diners, descending the
stairs to reach the dining area, the electric buzz of
anticipation, fresh aromas and a hushed rumble
of voices indicate the dynamism of the Slow
Food community. The hot plates bustling out of
the basement kitchen not only excite growling
stomachs, but also engage the mind. Many students
know and love Slow Food for it’s delicious and
inspiring community meals, but few recognize it for
its service in the Madison community. I sat down to
talk with co-directors of Slow Food’s South Madison
Project, Amina Maamouri and Marah Zinnen, to
learn about Slow Food’s reaching impact.
17 | T H E D I S H
“The slogan, ‘good, clean, fair food for all’,
characterizes a lot of what is cool about Madison’s
food scene,” Zinnen explained. “In its capacity to
focus on local food and sustainable production and
the interest and respect for other cultures.”
The city of Madison, in addition to Slow Food, has
a unique ability to be simultaneously aware of food
justice issues at large, in addition to supporting a
lively foodie haven and bridging the gap between the Maamouri and Zinnen’s Quick
two by providing for the less fortunate and privileged
alike. Zinnen tells me, they take the “for all” part Tips on Becoming a Madisonian
of their slogan seriously. Despite the abundance of
quaint shops and trendy restaurants in Madison, Food Justice Warrior:
obtaining food is not as easy as walking to Gordons
Market for some Madisonians. This may be due
to many factors such as economic insecurity, long
distances to grocery providers or simply only having
access to unhealthy hyper-processed foods; most of
which are the product of systemic discrimination
1.
and/or racism. Pop on into one of Slow Food’s community meals
on Wednesday afternoons or Monday evenings to
Slow Food identifies cuisine as a vehicle for social experience the passion and excitement of feasting
change and a way to build a stronger community on local and delicious food first hand.
by increasing food security in Madison. Slow Food is
practicing what it preaches through its meaningful 2.
community partnerships in South Madison by If you feel so inspired, come volunteer in the Slow
teaching children various culinary skills and Food kitchen, come chop some veggies and feel
gardening to foster autonomy and pride in their the power of nourishing others with great food.
food procurement and introducing kids to new and
different foods they may not have been exposed to.
3.
“Food activism is a social justice issue,” Zinnen says. Madison is lucky to have year round access to
“With determinants in a lot of different areas.” local produce through the Dane County Farmers’
Market which continues through the grueling
Due to systemic policies such as welfare, zoning Wisconsin winter in the warmth of the Senior
policies and environmental issues, Slow Food views Center on 330 W. Mifflin Street every Saturday
access to food as an economic, political, racial and morning. Eat seasonably, eat locally and support
discriminatory issue and ultimately a human right. restaurants that do the same. e
ICONIC MADISON | 18

Wisconsin Supper
Clubs: Time Capsules
of Retro Culture
By Genevieve Vahl
F rom the quintessential relish trays to delicacies
like ice cream cocktails, Wisconsin supper clubs
uphold tradition. Emerging in the Prohibition era of
the 1930s, any supper club will transport you right
back into those original speakeasies. Essential qualities
include their retro decor to signature menu items that
distinguish supper clubs from an average restaurant.
Relish trays are the first priority. Decorated with hot
peppers, radishes, celery, carrots and green onions, the
tray starts the meal off right. All-you-can-eat soup and
salad bars run the risk of ruining your appetite before
the meal even starts. Large cuts of meat like prime rib
and thick cut steaks are washed down with muddled
brandy Old Fashioneds and brandy Alexanders for the
entree portion. For supper club regular Susan Becker,
the ice cream drinks for dessert are a necessary sweet
treat to finish off the night.
“Every place has their own idea of what they
consider the best ice cream drink. It depends on each
individual,” Becker said. “For me, I love a super thick,
almost soft serve ice cream drink. I want it to stand
up and peak.”
These ice cream drinks, either minty or almond
liqueur flavored, sometimes even have a drizzle of
19 | T H E D I S H
chocolate syrup to coat the inside of the glass. Some
places serve theirs more like a milkshake, others are
thick. Personal preference determines the best.
The signature aesthetic of supper clubs compliments
the featured food items. Becker describes how supper
clubs usually have an atmosphere straight out of the 50s,
a blast from the past. The little old ladies playing the
piano in the dining room sets an ambient mood. The
walls are covered with wood paneling or deep colored
wallpaper, creating a dark atmosphere throughout the
restaurant.
“Cloth table clothes with candles on each table, large
wrap around bar with upholstered bar stools, and the
supper clubs to the far north typically display taxidermy
animals on their walls,” Becker explained.
An extensive alcohol selection and the occasional view
overlooking Lake Michigan sets a classic backdrop.
Retrolights and crystal chandeliers dimly light the
restaurant. Sometimes string lights add a twinkle to
the room. Eating at a supper club is a prolonged dining
experience, lasting well over two hours to get through
all of the courses. With all these common characteristics,
three specific restaurants around Wisconsin have
perfected their take on the true supper club experience.
The Hobnob in Kenosha sits on the shores of Lake
Michigan where you can catch the sunset while sipping
a cocktail at the bar. The retro neon sign outside attracts
those looking for a classic supper club experience. Once
inside, the large fake leather booths, dark persian rugs
complimenting the burgundy wallpaper and relics from
world travels decorate the various dining rooms. Crystal
chandeliers radiate dim lighting for comfort while
delving into their signature roasted duckling served a
la orange. To finish the night off sweet, the Hobnob is
known for their extra-thick grasshoppers, a traditional
supper club ice cream cocktail.
“Personally I think it’s the best because it’s super thick,
and they even hand muddle it; meaning they scoop the
ice cream and muddle it, rather than using a blender,
and put it in the glass with the liquer,” said Becker.
Their ice cream drinks include 10
scoops of ice cream making for a peak
towering over the shallow glasses. “It’s one of
Becker claims they are so big they can
those places
easily satisfy two people.
Jackson Grill, on Milwaukee’s
industrial south side, brings us to you should
another quintessential supper club in
a very unsuspecting neighborhood.
The supper club, once a family home
located in a residential area, feels
experience once
in your lifetime”
like you are dining at your neighbors
house. However, the art-deco bar sets
this restaurant apart from any normal
neighbor’s in-home bar.
“I love the atmosphere. I love the bar, it’s very 50s.”
Becker said. “They have the back bar that lights up. It’s
very intimate, they do not have a lot of tables. And the
food is good with reasonable prices.”
The small restaurant is run by owners with extensive
culinary backgrounds, offering their gourmet
renditions of supper club classics. One of the featured
dishes includes charred steak topped with portobello
mushrooms and whole garlic cloves. Seared scallops over
saffron risotto is another option to fire up taste buds.
“The chef comes out and talks to you at the end of
the night when he is all caught up,” Becker recalled,
enhancing the unique intimacy.
The Five O’clock Club has been around for over 70
years, and is known for serving some of the best
steaks in Milwaukee.
“The steaks are phenomenal. They do something
special with the steaks and they are just so good,” said
Becker. “It is a little pricey, but everything comes with
your meal. You get the bread, the relish tray and your
salad.”
About 10 years ago, Becker explained they used to
have servers come around the dining room with a
cart carrying the table’s relish tray, salad and bread.
Unfortunately that tradition was put to rest. Yet,
cozy ambience thrives from low ceilings decorated
with string lights amongst garland above the bar.
Waitresses from the supper club heydey really
enhance the authentic experience.
“I liked it because it’s
so 50s. It’s super dark in
the dining room. There’s
literally no windows,”
Becker said. “There’s like
red velvet wallpaper.
Things haven’t changed
in probably 50 years. It’s
gaudy, and I love it.”
Their iconic Alley Cat
Lounge, a luxury piano
bar and lounge, brings in
live music every Friday
for some entertainment
over dinner. The historical
background of this supper club livens the supper club
aesthetic.
“It’s one of those places you should experience once
in your lifetime,” said Becker.
With over 350 supper clubs in Wisconsin alone,
you will not have a problem finding one of these
time capsules wherever you may be. Yet, finding
those with the best steaks and ice cream drinks will
entail some further investigation. People like Susan
Becker will continue to rave about the supper club
experience even now, after the supper club era has
become a time of the past. The rich food can be
matched with a full experience rich in American
cultural history and authentic decor. e
ICONIC MADISON | 20
 A TASTE
OF ICONIC
MADISON:
CHEF TORY MILLER
by Alexa Miller | Photos by Ally dweck & Devin kelly

C hef Tory Miller creates award-winning

dishes in his Madison restaurants, but still
loves making fried chicken and homemade
pasta for his family.
Miller’s eagerness to cook began when he
worked at his grandparents’ diner in Racine,
Wisconsin. Pursuing his passion, Miller took
the leap and moved to one of the largest food
hubs in America, New York City.
Miller laughed at some of his first days in the
city and emphasized that it wasn’t easy.
“I didn’t know anyone there at the time. I
didn’t have a place to live. I flew out there
with some bags and it was daunting in the
beginning,” Miller said.
After attending the French Culinary Institute
in New York, he decided it was time to return
to the dairy state. Now, as a distinguished
chef, Miller owns L’Etoile, Graze, Sujeo and
Estrellón, each of which offers guests a special
perspective on the Madison food scene.
“Four different parts of my brain are getting
activated with my restaurants, but everyone
knows my favorite is Sujeo. I love Asian food
and casual vibes,” Miller said.
Miller grins as he describes his style as a chef:
cooking what he wants to eat. While Miller’s
success could have brought him to other parts
of the country, there is no place like home.
“The farmers and the taste of place, the terroir,

21 | T H E D I S H ICONIC MADISON | 22
 are very prevalent in Madison. It’s
really hard to connect with that and
leave because, as a chef, it’s really
where you want to be,” Miller said.
The iconic chef is relaxed as he talks
about his experiences. However, he
is serious as he talks about programs
like Cooking Healthy Options in
Wisconsin Schools (CHOW).
“I felt the need to connect with
Madison and help the way we feed
our kids in schools,” Miller said.
While Madison is not typically
thought of as a leader in trendy eats
and fine dining, Miller’s unique
style and commitment to customer
experience prove otherwise. The chef
with colorfully tattooed arms caught
the attention of the Food Network’s
“Iron Chef.”
“When they first asked, I wasn’t
ready to do it or wasn’t sure if it
was something I really wanted to do.
23 | T H E D I S H
But, probably about ten years later, I
decided I was down,” Miller said.
His team competed against Bobby
Flay in “Battle of the Bison.” As the
first Madison citizen to compete on
the show, Miller understood he was
not only representing his restaurants
in the competition, but also his
Wisconsinite and Korean roots.
“Our Bison menu was full on Asian
food, and for me, I am Korean
adoptee who didn’t know my
parents. To be able to make Asian
food the way I like to make it and
have it be the winning menu and be
really well-received from the judges
was nerve-wracking but so rad,”
Miller said.
So, what’s next for Chef Miller?
“I keep competing in my own four
walls and try to get better and
challenge myself to do the next big
thing. So, who knows what’s next.” e
ICONIC MADISON | 24
my
iconic
madison Food
Fight
By Chikako Seike

Illustration by lily oberstein

A look into Madison’s premiere restaurant group, how they
function and why they’re still thriving over 20 years later.

by sam karny

My words to express “iconic Madison” are colorful not been, such as raspberries field or a wine foudre
individualism. Those colors are blending in Madison as somewhere in Europe. While I was tasting the
if they are painting this city. A local store behind the chocolates, colorful imaginations spread into my head.
capitol, Candinas Chocolatier, is making connections I felt nostalgic for the emotion of warmness, similar
between people and creating sweetness. to what I felt in old days. Madison’s people gave me
that warmness when I first came to Madison from my
country, Japan. My every moment in Madison has been
When I opened the square box, there were sixteen
supported by their tenderness, sweetness and softness.
chocolates inside. They were aligned elegantly and
Chocolates represent their individuality: each one has
each piece’s top was decorated differently: round
a different level of depth. When we interact with
shapes with dots, lined horizontally and vertically,
each other, it is as if Madison were a box of Candinas
mixed nuts and caramel. When I take a bite, a taste I
Chocolatier chocolates. e
could not have imagined spreads in harmony and then
starts melting gently. Each piece has different flavors
and textures, as if they are alive themselves.
Each piece lets me take a journey to where I have

25 | T H E D I S H ICONIC MADISON | 26
“W e are the definition of
local,” says the opening
line of Food Fight’s webpage—a
hub of all things delicious in
Madison. Food Fight, a restaurant
group based in Madison, markets
themselves as the essence of
the Madison local food scene.
Founded by Monty’s Blue Plate
Diner owner, Monty Schiro,
and investor Peder Moren,
Food Fight has been a staple of
Madison’s restaurant industry
since its establishment in 1994.
The company aims to enrich
the Madison community with
diverse tastes and high-quality
service, and has been succeeding
for decades.
Since Food Fight’s humble
beginnings 24 years ago, the
company has undergone a
metamorphosis. Today, the Food
Fight name is synonymous to
Madison’s burgeoning food
scene. No two restaurants
are alike. With restaurants
specializing in American diner
classics to nouveau Tex-Mex and
trendy Hawaiian poké bowls,
Food Fight has achieved what
no other Madison food group
has accomplished: a restaurant
for everyone. From Johnny
Delmonico’s premier steaks and
top-shelf whiskey for dinner
with the parents, to Cento’s
warm interior and classic Italian
fare on date night, to DLUX’s
yuppie boozy brunch, Food Fight
has a location for every occasion.
Despite multiple traditional
Wisconsin outlets, Italian bistros
and eateries paying homage to
Mexican cuisine, each restaurant
maintains its own charm. This
27 | T H E D I S H
can be seen in not only the
dishes, but also in the ambiance.
The secret to Food Fight’s
Founder Monty Schiro’s own
professional beginnings, as a
success may lie in their continual dishwasher at 13, waiter at
investment in variety. Food 16, manager at 21, and finally,
Fight has successfully allowed restaurant owner at just 24, are
its brand to adapt from one likely the inspiration behind
restaurant to the next, enabling Food Fight’s cultivation of each
each chef to not only establish employee.
a distinctive range of flavors,
but also create a one-of-a-kind As the self-proclaimed definition
atmosphere for guests. of Madison locality, Food Fight
champions giving back to the
Monty’s Blue Plate Diner community as it enhances our
manager, Noelle Luce, asserts palates. Food Fight has served
that each restaurant preserves its the Madison area by building
own management with limited up Downtown’s culinary
corporate interference, but still scene, providing guidance to
reaps the benefits of Food Fight’s restaurant industry hopefuls,
expertise. establishing traditions like Food
Fight Foodie Week and making
“We really are given a lot of charitable contributions. From
empowerment to run our own its unpretentious conception
ships, put forth our own ideas, with the establishment of
and we’re really included in Monty’s Blue Plate Diner, to the
everything,” Luce says. She restaurant giant it has become,
explains that Food Fight’s Food Fight continues to put
purpose is to ask, “What is Madison, and its eclectic, ever-
your vision?” and “How can we changing food scene, first. e
help you polish that?” as they
guide restaurants to their full
potential.
Food Fight’s achievements go
well beyond the kitchen, as
each restaurant is enhanced by a
group of ever-friendly, respectful
employees. The Food Fight
website highlights their staff
as their “most valuable asset,” as
the company strives to manage
restaurants in which employees
desire to learn and grow.
“It’s nice to know that if I do my
job well, this is a place where I
can stay,” said Maya Steinberger,
a Cento hostess.
ICONIC MADISON | 28
29 | T H E D I S H PHOTOS BY ALLY DWECK CARLI GORDON DEVIN KELLY ICONIC MADISON | 30
last
course
Once you’ve said cheese curds, you’ve said it all!
by Claire Burden | Photos by Claire burden & Devin Kelly
M y first experience with
Madison was coming for
an out-of-town for a wedding. As
an 8-year-old from New Jersey, I
had no clue what a cheese curd
was, let alone a fried one. At the
rehearsal dinner, the maid of
honor raved about this restaurant
called The Old Fashioned and
how we would have to go there
for lunch the next day. I still
vividly remember my first bite of
a cheese curd with the warm and
31 | T H E D I S H
melty cheese oozing from inside
the breaded skin. I left Madison in
complete awe.
10 years later, I committed to
UW–Madison. Any time I
would wear my collegiate brand
“Wisconsin” shirt in public,
strangers would come up to me
remarking on how I would love
Madison and everything the little
city has to offer. While every
person had different advice on
spots to hit and things to do over
my 4 years in Wisconsin, they all
had the same recommendation of
beer, brats and specifically cheese
curds.
I have spent time in the city
on a virtual cheese curd-hop. I
went to all of the recommended
spots for the best cheese curds in
Madison (and definitely found
my favorite). The Old Fashioned,
Great Dane and HopCat are staple
restaurants in the Madison area,
all centered around a theme of
good, hearty, American gastropub
food. All three restaurants serve
fried cheese curds on their
menus, which have all received
the praise of the community.
Coming from out-of-state, I knew,
even before moving here, that
cheese curds were essential to
the food scene here in Madison.
After moving here and spending
time tasting different restaurants’
cheese curds and breading recipes,
that fact has been made more
apparent than ever. e
ICONIC MADISON | 32
33 | T H E D I S H www.thedishwisconsin.com | Instagram: @thedishwisconsin Facebook: The Dish Wisconsin | Twitter: @thedishwi ICONIC MADISON | 34
WELCOME HOME.
GRAB A SEAT.
LET’S EAT.
With over 30+ restaurants,
markets and cafes across
campus, we have something
to suit every taste any
time of day.

Chicken Artichoke Pizza from Strada Italian, Memorial Union.

Now offering mobile ordering for

pick-up or delivery through Tapingo.
Order online. Save time.
GETITON
GooglePlay

For hours and menus information visit

union.wisc.edu/dine