10 TECHNIQUES EVERY COOK SHOULD KNOW

Breading
This easy, three-step technique ensures an even crumb coating. It's commonly used
on thin cuts of chicken, pork or veal that will be fried or baked.

To begin, set up your breading station. Fill the first of three shallow dishes with flour.
In the second dish, make an egg wash by whisking eggs with a little bit of water, milk
or other liquid or seasoning. Finally, place your breadcrumbs (or other crumbs) into
the third dish.

Start by dredging a piece of meat in the flour. Dredging means to thinly coat the meat
with the flour, then shake off any excess. This eliminates much of the moisture from
the surface of the meat and provides something for the egg wash to grab onto.
The second step is to dip the meat into the egg wash, again letting the extra drip off.
At this point, you'll basically have a paste for the crumbs to adhere to. Finally, press
the meat into the crumbs, coating evenly.

Try to work with one hand as you complete the process, so as not to bread your
fingers on both hands - that can lead to a sticky mess.

Proceed with the recipe as directed.

Browning/Searing
Myths abound about the benefits of searing, most notably that it seals in the juices.
In reality, searing or browning meat or fish creates a caramelized, golden crust that
adds texture and a depth of flavor.

The most important factor in this technique is to start with a very hot pan. Ideally, you
should use one made from a stainless steel or anodized metal - a heavy material
that will conduct and distribute heat evenly and well.

Although you can use nonstick pans for delicate fish, pans without a nonstick finish
do a better job of browning, and leave lovely browned flavorful bits to use in a pan
sauce (see "Making pan sauce.")

To brown, heat a completely dry pan, then add enough oil to lightly coat the surface
(if you're using meat that has a lot of fat, you can skip this step and put it directly into
the dry pan). The oil should heat to the point where it shimmers, but does not smoke.
You can test this by flicking a droplet of water into the pan - if the pan is ready, the
water should sizzle and evaporate upon contact.

Place your ingredient directly into the pan. It will hiss at first, but let it cook until a
golden brown crust forms. If the pan is heated properly, the ingredient won't stick to
the pan, and you'll be able to lift it with tongs or a spatula easily.

Keep in mind that if you overcrowd the pan, the ingredients will steam rather than
brown, so sometimes you'll need to cook in batches. It's OK to wipe out the pan in
between, but leave the fond - the brown bits that stick to the bottom.
Dicing an onion
If done properly, dicing an onion is very simple. If you've never attended culinary
school or worked in a restaurant kitchen, there's a good chance you've never learned
the proper method. It's little more than three basic cuts.

Before you begin, make sure your chef's knife is very sharp, so that it slides easily
through the onion. (This will help your watering eyes, too.)

Cut off the stem end of the onion, trim the root end, then halve the onion from top to
bottom. This will give each half a flat side to place on the board.

Leave the root end (which will be tighter than the stem end) intact to hold the onion
together, peel off the skin, and, starting with one half, face the root end away from
you on the cutting board. Holding the onion firmly on either side, proceed by making
vertical cuts along the onion half, spacing them according to the desired thickness of
the dice. You'll want to angle your knife inward at the sides to hold the onion together
as you cut along the half. Again, leave the root end intact, and don't cut all the way
through to the root.

Next make horizontal cuts. With your knife parallel to the cutting board, slice the
onion, spacing according to your desired dice size and not cutting all the way
through the root end.

Finally, cut the onion cross-wise, releasing the diced onions in each layer as you cut
toward the root end. When you've reached the final piece, lay it flat on the cutting
board and make cuts in both directions to finish the dice.

This technique can also be used to dice shallots.

Folding
Folding is used in soufflés, cake batters or any recipe that calls for combining two
ingredients of different densities. Usually, whipped egg whites or whipped cream is
incorporated into a heavier batter or custard to lighten the batter. In the case of egg
whites, the air that has been incorporated into the whipped whites acts as leavening
to help cakes or soufflés rise.

With the heavier batter in a bowl, gently deposit about a quarter of the egg whites or
whipped cream on top of the batter. Using a rubber spatula, gently reach down
through the whites and batter to the bottom of the bowl and lift the some of the batter
up along the edge of the bowl and over the whites in the center. It's all about the twist
of the wrist.

With each folding motion, turn the bowl slightly. Continue this motion until there are
no traces of egg white left. Starting with a quarter of the whites or cream will lighten
the batter enough so that when you add the remaining egg whites or cream all at
once, you can easily fold using the same technique.

Be careful to combine the two ingredients quickly but gently, so as not to deflate the
air bubbles.
Making Pan Sauce
One of our all-time favorite techniques - making a pan sauce - is a great secret for
home cooks. Within minutes, you can create a quick, professional-tasting meal using
just a few ingredients.

This method utilizes the brown bits on the bottom of a pan (called fond) that appear
after you've used the searing or browning technique, with anything from meat or
poultry to fish.

We like to start by sautéing some diced shallots or other aromatics for added flavor,
either in the fat leftover from browning the meat or in a little extra olive oil or butter.

Next, add liquid to the hot pan, and bring to a simmer. You can use wine, stock,
vinegar, juice or other flavored liquid. Use a wooden spoon or spatula to scrape the
fond from the bottom of the pan and incorporate it into the sauce, adding color and
flavor. This is called deglazing. Reduce the sauce by letting it simmer and cook
down, which concentrates the flavors and thickens the sauce. How long it simmers
depends on how much liquid you add, but it's never more than a few minutes.

To finish, remove the pan from the heat and whisk in cold cubes of butter, which will
further thicken the sauce, add extra richness and provide luster. Season it with salt
and pepper, and you'll have a finished sauce that will enhance a main course.

Rolling-Out Pie Crust

Even the most experienced baker can have trouble rolling out a pie crust and getting
it into the pan. It's a technique that, above all else, requires practice. Plus, outside
factors, like the temperature of the room or the dough, can affect success.

Start with a flattened round of pie dough that has been chilled in the refrigerator. You
want it to be cold enough so the butter or fat doesn't melt, but malleable enough that
you can roll it out somewhat easily with a rolling pin.

Have a pile of flour on hand for dusting - it's imperative to spread it on your work
surface, sprinkle it on top of the dough and rub some onto the rolling pin, to ensure
that nothing sticks. Starting in the center of the dough, make short strokes toward the
edges in different directions, turning the dough often as it becomes thinner to
maintain a circular shape. Sprinkle the work surface and dough with flour as needed
to prevent sticking; avoid adding too much flour, which will toughen the dough.

Stop rolling when the dough is about 2-3 inches larger than your inverted pie pan.
Place the rolling pin on the edge of the dough that's farthest away from you, and roll
the dough around the pin toward you, until you have about half of it on the pin.
Gently move the rolling pin over the pie pan, and slowly unroll the dough, draping
and centering it over the pan, and gently lift and coax down into the edges. Lightly
press the dough into the bottom corners of the pan.

Using a sharp knife, trim the excess dough around the outside, leaving a 1/2- to 1-
inch overhang that you can roll under the border to create a thick edge, which gives
the crust stability as it bakes. Decorate the border as desired, either with the tines of
a fork or your fingers.
Making a Roux
A roux is the traditional way to thicken and enrich gravies, sauces and soups. It's
essential to making our Best Way Gravy that is part of our Thanksgiving section
every year, and is used often in Cajun/Creole cooking.

A roux is a cooked mixture of equal weights of flour and fat - we generally use butter
So, one stick of butter (or four ounces) would be blended with four ounces of flour,
usually a little more than what would fit into a dry half cup measure.

To make the roux, start by melting the butter in a heavy-bottom saucepan until it
foams and bubbles. Add the flour all at once, whisking constantly until the two are
combined and a smooth consistency has formed. It's important to cook the mixture
for at least 2 to 3minutes. At this point, you have a blond (or white) roux, which is
used to thicken soups or sauces like béchamel or veloute, where the lighter color
plays a key role.

Beyond that, the roux will take on different characteristics, depending on how long it
cooks in the pot. Between 5 and 10 minutes, the roux will develop a light brown hue
and a nutty flavor, good for thickening dishes like beef stew.

In Cajun/Creole cooking, recipes most often call for a dark brown roux, which has
been cooked for 20 to 25 minutes.

Keep in mind that the longer roux cooks, the nuttier and richer the flavors become,
but it will also lose thickening power as it darkens, which means you'll have to make
more.

To thicken your dish, cook it with the roux mixed in for at least 15 to 20 minutes. This
will cook out the starchy flour flavor and bring the dish to the desired consistency.

Segmenting Citrus
Orange or other citrus segments, also known as supremes, make a beautiful
presentation when they are removed from the peel, pith and membrane. We love
them on salads, over fish or in desserts.

Cut off the top and bottom of the fruit so that it sits flat on the cutting board. With a
small, sharp knife, cut away one section of peel and bitter white pith, following the
natural curve of the fruit from top to bottom. Continue around the citrus, cutting away
sections of the peel and pith as you go. Trim any leftover pith once the peel has been
removed.

Holding the fruit in your hand, with a bowl underneath, make two cuts within the
membrane on either side of a segment, and with the second cut, lift the segment out
of the membrane. Place the fruit on a plate or in another bowl. Continue around the
whole fruit in the same fashion. The juice will drip into the bowl as you work, allowing
you to save it for another use, such as vinaigrette.

The peeling portion of this technique can be used for any rounded fruit with a rind,
such as melons and pineapples.
Tempering
This technique refers to a method that blends ingredients of two different
temperatures. Most often, we use it to incorporate cold eggs into hot liquid, such as
milk or cream when making custard, ice cream or other dishes where eggs are the
main thickener.

In its most basic form, tempering involves gradually pouring hot liquid into the eggs
in a steady stream while whisking constantly, which slowly raises the temperature of
the mixture without curdling or scrambling it.

Once enough of the hot liquid has been incorporated, the egg mixture can be poured
back into the original liquid, where it will begin to thicken the liquid as it continues to
cook.

(Note: Tempering chocolate is a different process that produces shiny, smooth

chocolate after melting.)

Making a Vinaigrette
Knowing how to make a vinaigrette always comes in handy. It's something that can
be made on a whim with pantry staples, and it tastes much better and fresher - and
is more economical - than bottled dressing.

The basic ratio for vinaigrette is one part vinegar to three parts oil, although if you
substitute something less acidic like lemon juice for the vinegar, you'll want to lessen
the oil accordingly. As with anything else, you'll get the best results if you use the
highest quality ingredients.

You'll need both hands to make a vinaigrette – one to pour in the oil, and the other to
whisk. To that end, it's important that the bowl sit stationary on the counter. If you
don't have a rubber-bottomed bowl, you can shape a towel in a ring around the
bottom of the bowl to provide traction.

Start by dissolving a little bit of salt in the vinegar. Though you can season the
dressing at the end, the salt will dissolve more readily directly in the vinegar. Add a
small amount of Dijon mustard, which acts as an emulsifying agent, binding together
the oil and vinegar. Whisk in the mustard until well combined, then slowly pour the oil
in a steady stream, whisking constantly, until the dressing is blended and emulsified.
If desired you can season with pepper or more salt, to taste.

Experiment with this basic vinaigrette by changing the type of oil or vinegar, or by
enhancing the dressing with other ingredients like herbs, garlic, shallots or citrus
zest. It can be tossed with salad greens, or drizzled over grilled vegetables, pasta
salad, fish or meat to finish a dish.

Popular Cuts
Finishing a dish with a chiffonade of basil or garnishing with a brunoise of red
peppers are techniques that most professional chefs employ. But even in a home
kitchen, knowing how to chop, dice and slice correctly speeds preparation and adds
an artistic edge to even the most basic dish. Here are illustrations of some of the
most popular cuts:
 RECIPES

CRISPY CHICKEN, ORANGE & FENNEL SALAD WITH CHAMPAGNE-CITRUS

VINAIGRETTE
Serves 6

Techniques used: Breading; Segmenting Citrus; Making a Vinaigrette (see previous

page).

The Chicken:
 1/3 Cup flour
 1 teaspoon kosher salt + more to taste
 ½ teaspoon pepper + more to taste
 2 eggs
 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
 1 ½ Cups panko breadcrumbs
 2 pieces large boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut in half crosswise and
pounded thin into four cutlets (around 3/8-inch thick)
 1/3 Cup olive oil

The Salad:
 1 head frisee, torn into bite-size pieces
 1 head butter lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces
 2 ounces loose arugula
 1 small head fennel, halved and sliced very thin
 3 pieces Oranges, peeled and cut into segments, 1 tablespoon juice
squeezed from peel and set aside

The Vinaigrette:
 2 Tablespoons Champagne vinegar
 ½ teaspoon kosher salt + more to taste
 1 ½ teaspoons Dijon mustard
 ½ Cup fruity olive oil
 Ground black pepper, to taste

Procedure:
For the Chicken: Set up a breading station. On one shallow plate, combine flour
with salt and pepper. In a wide, shallow bowl, whisk eggs with 2 tablespoons water
and the mustard. On a third plate, spread panko breadcrumbs.

Season chicken lightly, on both sides with; salt and pepper. Dredge one cutlet in
flour, shaking off excess. Dip into egg mixture, and then coat with breadcrumbs.
Repeat with remaining chicken.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. When hot but not smoking,
add the chicken. Cook on each side for about 3-4 minutes, until cooked through.
Transfer chicken to a plate covered with paper towels. You may need to do this in
two batches. When cool enough to handle, cut into 1-inch thick slices on the bias
and set aside.
For the Salad: Wash and dry the salad greens. On a platter, combine the greens
and fennel, and gently toss in the orange segments.

For the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, combine the vinegar and reserved orange juice,
and whisk in the salt to dissolve. Whisk in the mustard until combined, then, in a
steady stream, slowly whisk in olive oil until emulsified. Add black pepper to taste,
and more salt if needed.

Gently toss all but about 3 tablespoons of the dressing with the salad, top with the
sliced chicken, and drizzle remaining dressing over the chicken.

Per serving: 400 calories, 15 g protein, 27 g carbohydrate, 27 g fat (4 g saturated),

95 mg cholesterol, 707 mg sodium, 5 g fiber.
PAN-SEARED PORK CHOPS WITH PLUM-MADEIRA PAN SAUCE
Serves 4
Techniques used: Browning/Searing; Making Pan Sauce.
Depending on how tart your plums are, you may need to add more or less sugar
than the recipe calls for.
 4 boneless, center-cut pork chops (thin cut, about 3/4-inch thick)
 Kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste
 3 tablespoons olive oil
 2 tablespoons minced shallots
 1/2 cup Madeira
 1/2 cup red wine
 4 plums, pitted and sliced into wedges
 2 teaspoons sugar, or to taste
 2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
 2 tablespoons chiffonade of basil

Instructions: Season the chops with salt and pepper to taste.

Heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat until hot when you place your hand a
few inches above the pan. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil and heat until shimmering but
not smoking. Add the pork chops and sear until a golden-brown crust forms, about 2
minutes on each side. Remove to a plate and cover.

Lower the heat to medium, add the remaining oil and the shallots, and sauté until the
shallots are softened, about 2 minutes.
Deglaze the pan with the Madeira, making sure to scrape up all of the browned bits,
or fond, on the bottom of the pan. Bring to a simmer and reduce the sauce by half,
about 3 minutes. Add red wine, bring to a simmer, and continue to reduce about 5
more minutes. Add the plums and sugar as needed, and cook until the fruit is
softened and the flavor has infused the sauce, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat
and stir in the cold butter. Season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper, add the
pork chops back into the sauce, and put back on low heat. Slowly heat for at least 5
more minutes; until the meat is just cooked through to your liking.

Remove to a platter, and garnish with the basil. Serve immediately.

Per serving: 390 calories, 27 g protein, 16 g carbohydrate, 19 g fat (6 g saturated),

94 mg cholesterol, 53 mg sodium, 1 g fiber.
COCONUT CUSTARD PIE
Serves 8-10

Techniques used: Rolling Out Pie Crust; Tempering; Folding.

The Pie Dough:
 1 ½ Cups all-purpose flour
 ½ teaspoon kosher salt
 6 Tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
 2 Tablespoons cold shortening, cut into small cubes
 3 to 4 ½ Tablespoons ice water
 Additional flour for rolling

The Filling:
 1 Cup coconut milk
 2 Cups milk
 1 Cup sugar
 ½ vanilla bean, split and scraped, or 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
 6 egg yolks
 ¼ Cup cornstarch
 2 teaspoons rum
 ½ teaspoon kosher salt
 ½ Cup + 2 tablespoons unsweetened coconut, toasted and cooled
 2 Tablespoons cold unsalted butter
 ¾ Cup heavy cream
 2 teaspoons sugar

For the Pie Dough: Mix together the flour and salt in a bowl or the bowl of a food
processor. Add the butter and shortening, and work it into the flour with your
fingertips or a pastry blender or pulse in the food processor until the mixture
resembles fresh breadcrumbs. Sprinkle in the water, 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring
lightly with a fork or pulsing after each addition. Use enough water so the dough
holds together.

Form the dough into a ball and flatten the top to form a disk. Wrap the dough
completely in plastic wrap and let it rest in the refrigerator for 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface until it is a 1/8-inch thick round that is 2
inches larger in diameter than your inverted pie pan.

Transfer the dough to the pan, and then trim edges to make about a 1-inch
overhang. Roll the edge under and crimp decoratively. Chill for at least 20 minutes
before baking.

In the meantime, pre-heat the oven to 425°F.

When ready to bake, line the pie dough; with a piece of aluminum foil shiny-side
down. Fill with dried beans, rice or pie weights. Bake in the preheated oven for 15
minutes, and then remove the foil and beans. Return the pie shell to the oven and
bake for 10-15 minutes longer, rotating the pan a couple of times, until evenly
browned. Set aside to cool.

For the Filling: In a large saucepan, whisk together the coconut milk, milk, ¾ Cup of
the sugar and vanilla bean seeds and pod, and scald over medium heat. When you
see small bubbles around the sides, remove pot from the heat and set aside for 10-
15 minutes. Discard the vanilla bean pod.

Meanwhile, in a mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the remaining ¼ Cup sugar,
the cornstarch, rum and salt until well combined. Pour about 1 Cup of the milk
mixture into a liquid measuring cup, and in a very slow and steady stream, gradually
whisk the hot liquid into the eggs to temper the mixture. Then, whisk the egg mixture
back into the remaining milk on the stove and, continuing to whisk, heat until the
whisk makes clear lines across the thickened custard and it starts to boil in large
bubbles. Immediately pour into a clean bowl, and whisk in ½ Cup of the toasted
coconut and the cold butter until melted and combined.

Press a sheet of plastic wrap directly against the surface of the custard to prevent a
skin from forming. When cooled, place in the fridge to chill for at least 4 hours or
overnight.

When ready to assemble pie, whip the cream with the sugar until soft peaks form.
Fold half of the whipped cream into the custard and spread into pie shell. Pipe the
remaining whipped cream decoratively over the top, and garnish with remaining
toasted coconut. Chill for at least 2 hours before serving.

Per serving: 470 calories, 7 g protein, 43 g carbohydrate, 31 g fat (19 g saturated),

181 mg cholesterol, 255 mg sodium, 2 g fiber.
SHRIMP & CORN CHOWDER
Serves 6-8
Techniques used: Making a Roux; Dicing an Onion.
I like to use chicken broth and water for the soup base, but for broth with more fish
flavor, substitute seafood stock or clam juice. For garnish, buy an extra handful of
shrimp. Season with salt and pepper, and sauté in olive oil.

Ingredients:
 4 ounces bacon, cut into thin slices
 2 Tablespoons olive oil (optional, if not using bacon fat)
 2 Cups chopped onion (from about 1 large onion)
 1 Cup medium diced red pepper (about 1 large pepper)
 Kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste
 ½ Cup dry white wine
 1 bay leaf
 Leaves from 1 sprig fresh thyme
 4 ears corn, kernels removed and divided, ears saved
 1 quart chicken broth
 4 Tablespoons unsalted butter
 5 Tablespoons flour
 ¾ pound shrimp (51/60 count left whole, or larger shrimp cut into medium
chunks), peeled and deveined
 1/3 Cup cream
 Chives, for garnish

Instructions: Place bacon slices in a cold pan and turn burner to medium-low heat.
Cook bacon until it is crisp and the fat has rendered, about 6-8 minutes. Remove
bacon to a paper towel with a slotted spoon and set aside.

If you want to use the olive oil, pour the bacon fat out of the pan and add the oil. If
not, leave the bacon fat in the pan.

Turn the heat to medium, and add onions and red pepper, sautéing until the
vegetables have softened and the onion is translucent, about 5-6 minutes. Season
with salt and pepper, to taste.

Pour in the white wine to deglaze the pan, scraping up any brown bits left over from
the bacon, and reduce until nearly dry. Add the bay leaf, thyme, half the corn kernels,
the broth and 2 cups water. Scrape any remaining pulp or juice from the stripped
ears of corn into the pot as well. Bring to a boil, and then turn heat to low and simmer
until the flavors have melded and the soup has reduced slightly, about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the roux. In a small saucepan on medium heat, melt butter until it
is bubbling and foamy. Add flour all at once, whisking constantly for about 2-3
minutes, until some of the flour has been cooked out and you have a smooth, light,
straw-colored paste.

When soup has finished simmering, take about 1 cup of the broth (try to get it without
too many vegetables if possible) and slowly add it to the pot with the roux, whisking
constantly until the roux is loosened and combined. Pour the whole mixture back into
the big soup pot, and continue to whisk and cook the soup until it has thickened and
the chalky taste has been cooked out, about 15 minutes.

About 5 minutes into this final cooking time, add the shrimp and the remaining corn
kernels.

When finished cooking, stir in the bacon, leaving a few slices for garnish if desired.
Remove from heat, stir in cream and season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish
with snipped chives, remaining bacon and sautéed shrimp, if desired.

Per serving: 315 calories, 11 g protein, 23 g carbohydrate, 20 g fat (9 g saturated),

89 mg cholesterol, 679 mg sodium, 3 g fiber.