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essional chef N IN TH EDITION

The Culinary Institute of America

ure X
CIN
L'U NA RY\
STITUTE
^AMERICAJ
T H E W O R L D 'S P R E M IE R
C U LIN A R Y C O LLEG E
This book is printed on acid-free paper. @

Copyright © 2011 by The Culinary Institute of America. All rights reserved

THE C ULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA

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Editorial Assistants Shelly Malgee '08, Erin Jeanne McDowell ’08

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Published simultaneously in Canada

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ISBN: 978-0-470-42 135-2 (cloth)

Printed in China

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
 Master Recipe List v iii

Acknowledgments xvi

Introduction xv iii .

PART ONE

essional
IN TRODUCTION TO THE/PROFESSION 3

M ENUS AND RECIPES IB

THE BASICS OF NUTRITION AND FOOD SCIENCE 23

FOOD AND KITCHEN SAFETY 31

yudhacookbook.com
PART TW O

tools and ingredients in the

professional kitchen
chap ter 5 E Q U IPM EN T IDENTIFICATIO N 43

Chapter 6 MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME ID ENTIFIC ATION 69

chapter 7 FISH AND SHE LLFISH ID EN TIFICATIO N 99

chapter 8 FRUIT, VEGETABLE, AND FRESH HERB ID EN TIFICATION 127

Chapter 9 D AIRY AND EGG PURCHASING AND ID ENTIFIC ATIO N 181

chapter 10 DRY GOODS IDENTIFICATION 199

 PARTTHREE

stocks, sauces, and soups

c h a p te r !! MISE EN PLACE FOR STOCKS, SAUCES, AND SOUPS 239

chapter 12 STOCKS 253

chapter 13 SAUCES 267

chap ter 14 SOUPS 301

PART FO U R

meats, poultry, fish, and shellfish

chapter 15 MISE EN PLACE FOR MEATS, POULTRY, FISH, AND SH ELLFISH 361

chapter 16 FABRICATING MEATS, POULTRY, AND FISH 375

chapter 17 GRILLING, BROILING, AND ROASTING 423

Chapter 18 SAUTEING, PAN FRYING, AND DEEP FRYING 487

chapter 19 STEAM ING AND SU BM ER SIO N COOKING 531

chaptei-2 0 BRAISING AND STEWING 571

P A R T F IV E

vegetables, potatoes, grains and

legumes, and pasta and dumplings
chapter 21 MISE EN PLACE FOR VEGETABLES AND FRESH HERBS 617

chapter 22 COOKING VEGETABLES 647

chapter 23 COOKING POTATOES 713

chapter 24 COOKING GRAINS AND LEGUMES 751

chapter 25 COOKING PASTA AND D U M P LIN G S 807

 »
•■*' ■- t
. : ,:k . A #
7 t
, ■
.4 ^■ S 1
P A R T S IX .. •; •
.
fV V
breakfast and garde manger - I P
Si g p
V -I * - • V h -
* 4

chapter 26 COOKING EGGS 847 *

Chapter 27 SALAD DRESSINGS AND S A LA D S 879 ■ > /■ -

chapter 28 SAN DW ICH ES 931

' * '■* r .
^ ' t ' ^

chapter 29 HORS D'OEUVRE AND A PPETIZER S 945 i”'* - Txr-

’ f , •
chapter 30 C HARCUTERIE AND GARDE MANGER 985
JL v % ■ ,

PART S EVEN

baking and pastry

chapter 31 BAKING MISE EN PLACE 1015

% ,
chapter 32 YEAST BREADS 1025

Chapter 33 PASTRY DOUGHS AND BATTERS 1047

r * .

Chapter 34 CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND MOUSSES 1091 H

nr.:. d S fS p - • ,<• >.
chapter 35 FILLIN G S, FROSTINGS, AND DESSERT SAUCES 1107
;Q
4 >>
chapter 36 PLATED DESSERTS 1131
, v -

A pp en d ix 1161 J fl

Glossary 1167

Readings and R esources 1185

Recipe Index 1191

S u b je c tln d e x 1202 %" T_ s

 master recipe list
chapter 12 stocks Hollandaise Sauce 298 Corn Chowder 341
MOUSSELINE SAUCE 298 Pacific Seafood Chowder 34 2
Chicken Stock 263
MALTAISE SAUCE 298 M an h attan -S tyle Clam
WHITE VEAL STOCK 263
Beurre Blanc 299 Chowder 3 4 4
WHITE BEEF STOCK 263
Red Pepper Coulis 2 9 9 Puree of Lentil Soup 344
Brown Veal Stock 263
Pesto 299 Puree of Split Pea Soup 3 4 5
BROWN GAME STOCK (JU S DE
G IB IE R ) 2 6 4 MaTtre d’Hotel B u tter 3 0 0 PUREE OF YELLOW SPLIT PEA
SOUP 345
ESTOUFFADE 264 TARRAGON BUTTER 300
PIMIENTO BUTTER 30 0
Caribbean-Style Puree of
BROWN LAM B STOCK 264
Black Bean Soup 3 4 5
BROWN PORK STOCK 264 GREEN ONION BUTTER 300
Senate Bean Soup 34 6
BROWN CHICKEN STOCK 264 DILL BUTTER 300
SUN-DRIED TOMATO AND OREGANO
Potage Garbure 346
BROWN DUCK STOCK 264
BUTTER 300 Vichyssoise 34 7
Fish Fum et 2 6 4
BASIL BUTTER 30 0 Shrimp Bisque 347
SHELLFISH STOCK 264
Vegetable Stock 2 6 5 Lobster Bisque (Bisque
chapter 14 soups de Homard) 3 4 8
ROASTED VEGETABLE STOCK 265
Beef Consomme 333 Chicken and Shrimp Gumbo 348
Court Bouillon 265
CHICKEN CONSOMME ROYALE. 333 Gazpacho Andaluz (Andalucian
Poultry and M ea t Stock
Gazpacho) 34 9
(Brodo) 2 6 6 Royale Custard 333
Ham Bone and Collard
Ichi Ban Dashi 266 Chicken Broth 3 3 4
Greens Soup 3 5 0
AM ISH CORN AND CHICKEN
SOUP 3 3 4 Chinese Hot and Sour Soup
(Suan La Tang) 3 5 0
BEEF BROTH: 334
chapter 13 sauces
VEAL BROTH 334
Spicy Beef Soup
( Yukkaejang) 351
Ju sd e V eau L ie 293 HAM OR SMOKED PORK BROTH 334
JUS DE VO LAILLE LIE 293 Miso Soup 353
LAM B BROTH 334
JUS DE CANARD LIE 293 TURKEY OR GAME BROTH 334
Thai Chicken Soup with Coconut
M ilk and Galangal 3 5 3
JUS D'AGNEAU LIE: 293 FISH BROTH 334
JUS DE GIBIER LIE 293 Thai Hot and Sour Soup
SHELLFISH BROTH 334
(Tom Yum Kung) 3 5 4
Demi-Glace 2 9 3 Onion Soup 33 5
W ontonSoup 354
Espagnole Sauce 2 9 4 WHITE ONION SOUP 335
Tuscan W hite Bean and
Chicken Veloute 294 ONION SOUP GRATINEE 33 5
Escarole Soup 3 5 5
SUPREME SAUCE 294 Tortilla Soup 335
Vegetable Soup, Emilia
FISH VELOUTE 294 Chicken Rice Soup (Canja) 33 6 Romagna Style (Minestrone
SHRIMP VELOUTE 294 Cream of Tomato Soup 339 alia Emiliana) 3 5 7
VEG ETABLEVELOUTE 294 CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP W ITH Minestrone 357
Bechamel Sauce 295 RICE 3 3 9

CHEDDAR CHEESE SAUCE 295 Cream of Broccoli Soup 33 9

MORNAYSAUCE 295 CREAM OF ASPARAGUS (CREME chapter 15 mise en place for
A R G E N T E U IL ) 3 3 9
CREAM SAUCE 295 meats, poultry, fish, and shellfish
CREAM OF CELERY (CREME DE
Tomato Sauce 2 9 5
CELER I) 3 3 9 Garam Masala 368
Bolognese M ea t Sauce
Wisconsin Cheddar Cheese Chinese Five-Spice Powder 3 6 8
(Ragu Bolognese) 2 9 6
and Beer Soup 3 4 0
Tomato Coulis 296 Barbecue Spice M ix 368
New England-Style Clam
Bearnaise Sauce 297 Chili Powder 368
Chowder 3 4 0
M IN T SAUCE (P A L O I5 E S A U C E ) 297 Curry Powder 369
Conch Chowder 341
CHORONSAUCE 297 Q uatre Epices 36 9

v iii M A S T E R REC IPE LIST

Fines Herbes 369
Red Curry Paste 370
Green Curry Paste 37 0
Yellow Curry Paste 371
Seasoning M ix fo r Spit-R oasted
M eats and Poultry 371
Asian-Style M arinade 372
Barbecue M arinade 372
Fish M arinade 372
Red W ine Game M arinade 3 7 2
Lamb M arinade 373
Latin Citrus M arinade (Mojo) 3 7 3
Red W ine M arinade fo r
Grilled M eats 3 7 4
Teriyaki M arinade 374
chapter 17 grilling, broiling, and
roasting
Grilled or Broiled Sirloin Steak
with Mushroom Sauce 4 4 0
GRILLED OR BROILED SIRLOIN STEAK
WITH MAITRE D’HOTEL BUTTER 4 4 0
MUSH R OOM SAUCE 440
Grilled or Broiled Sirloin with
Marchand de Vin Sauce 441
MARCHAND D E V IN SAUCE
Seitan Satay 442
Beef Teriyaki 4 4 5
Barbecued Steak w ith
Herb Crust 4 4 5
Skewered Beef and Scallions
Grilled Rib Eye Steak 446
Pork and Veal Skewers
(R a znjic i) 4 4 7
BROILED LA M B KEBABS WITH
PIMIENTO BUTTER 4 4 7
DILL SAUCE 447
Grilled Smoked Iowa
Pork Chops 4 4 8
APPLE CIDER SAUCE 448
CARAMELIZED APPLES
Grilled or Broiled Pork Chops with
Sherry V inegar Sauce 4 5 0
SHERRY VINEGAR SAUCE
Grilled Lamb Chops with
Rosemary, Artichokes, and
Cipollini Onions 451
Indian Grilled Lamb with Fresh
Mango Chutney 4 5 3
FRESH MANGO CHUTNEY
Pakistani-Style Lamb Patties
Grilled or Broiled Chicken
Breasts with Sun-Dried Tomato
and Oregano B u tter 4 5 4
Grilled or Broiled Chicken
Breasts with Fennel 4 5 5
Grilled Paillards of Chicken
with Tarragon B u tter 4 5 5
Brazilian Mixed Grill 457
HOT PEPPER S A U C E (M O LH O
API MENTADO) 457
Barbecued Chicken Breast with
Black Bean Sauce 4 5 8
BLACK BEAN SAUCE 458
Jerked Game Hens 459
F illet of Mahi Mahi with
Pineapple-Ji'cama Salsa
P INEAPPLE-JICAMA SALSA
Broiled S tu ffed Lobster
Broiled Bluefish a I'Anglaise with
MaTtre d'Hotel B u tter 461
Fish Kebabs 462
M IN T AND YOGURT CHU TNEY
B eef W ellington 4 6 3
MADEIRA SAUCE 4 6 3
M AR SALA SAUCE 463
Standing Rib Roast au Jus
Veal Shoulder Poele 464
44 1 Pork Roast with Jus Lie 465
Baked S tu ffed Pork Chops 4 6 5
Cantonese Roast Pork
( C h a r S iu ) 4 6 6
Guava-Glazed Pork Ribs
446 GUAVA BARBECUE SAUCE
Carolina Barbecue 469
NORTH CAROLINA PIEDMONT
SAUCE 4 6 9
NORTH CAROLINA WESTERN
BARBECUE SAUCE 4 6 9
MUSTARD BARBECUE SAUCE
(NORTH CAROLINA EASTERN LOW
COU NTRY SAUCE) 469
Pork Butt with Coleslaw
Smoked Brisket with
448
Sw eet Pickles 4 7 2
CHEF CLARK'S SOUTHWEST -STYLE
SAUCE 472-3
450 St. Louis-Style Ribs 475
BARBECUE SAUCE 475
Lacquer-Roasted Pork
Ribs (Kao Paigu) 4 7 6
Roast Leg of Lamb
Boulangere 47 6
453
Roast Rack of Lamb Persille
454 PERSILLADE A ll
Roasted Shoulder of Lamb and
Couscous (M e ch o u i) 478
Roast Leg of Lamb with Haricots
Blancs (G ig o t a la Breto nne ) 480
Roast Leg of Lamb with
M int Sauce 481
SALT HERBS 481
Roast Chicken with Pan Gravy 48 2
Chicken Legs with Duxelles
S tu ffin g 4 8 2
Pan-Smoked Chicken 483
Breast of Rock Cornish Game Hen
with Mushroom Forcem eat 4 8 3
MU SH R OOM FORCEMEAT 484
Roast Duckling with Sauce
459
Bigarade 4 8 4 -5
459
Roast Turkey with Pan Gravy
461 and Chestnut S tu ffin g 4 8 5
C H ES TNU TSTU FF IN G 486
Salmon F illet with Smoked Salmon
and Horseradish Crust 4 8 6
462
chapter 18 sauteing, pan frying,
and deep frying
464
Sauteed Chicken with Fines
HerbesSauce 5 0 0
FINES HERBES SAUCE 500
Chicken Provengal 501
BEEFTOURNEDOSPROVENCAL 501
Emince of Sw iss-Style Veal 5 0 3
467 Veal Scaloppine Marsala 5 0 3
467
PORK SCALOPPINE WITH TOMATO
SAUCE 5 0 3
MARS ALA SAUCE 504
N oisettes of Pork w ith Green
Peppercorns and Pineapple 5 0 4
Sauteed Medallions of Pork
with W in ter Fruit Sauce 50 5
W INTER FR U IT SA UCE 50 5
470 Pork Medallions with Warm
Cabbage Salad 50 6
NOISETTES OF PORK WITH RED
ONION CONFIT 50 6
WARM CABBAGE SALAD 506
Pork C utlet with Sauce
Robert 5 0 8
SAUCE ROBERT 508
SAUCE CHARCUTIERE 508
Red Snapper with
G rapefruit Salsa 5 0 9
Trout Amandine 50 9
477
M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
Ancho-Crusted Salmon with POACHED SOLE WITH SAFFRON Choucroute 593
Yellow Pepper Sauce 511 MOUSSE 555
HOM EMA DE SAUERKRAUT 593
YEL LOW PEPPER SAUCE 51 1 TROUT AND SAFFRON
Cassoulet 594
MOUSSEL INE 5 5 5
Vatapa 512
SOLE MOUSSELINE 555 D u ckC o nfit 59 5
Sauteed Trout a la M euniere 513
SALMON MOUSSELINE 55 5 New Mexican Green
Shrimp Ticin-Xic 513 Chile Stew 59 5
Poached Trout Paupiettes
Bibimbap 514 with Vin Blanc Sauce 5 5 6 Pork Vindaloo 596
S tir-F ried Squid with Poached Sole Paupiettes Pork in a Green Curry Sauce 59 6
Thai Basil 5 1 5 Veronique 5 5 7 Szekely Goulash (Szekely
Breast of Chicken with Duxelles ROYALGLACAGE 557 Gulyas) 597
Stu ffin g and Supreme Sauce 5 1 5
Poached Sole with Vegetable Veal Blanquette 597
B utterm ilk Fried Chicken 516 Julienne and Vin Blanc Sauce 5 5 8 Braised Veal Breast with
COUNTRY GRAVY 516 F illet of Snapper en Mushroom Sausage 5 9 8
Pan-Fried Veal Cutlets 518 Papillote 5 5 8 -9 MUSHROO M SAUSAGE 598
WIENER SCHNITZEL 518 New England Shore Dinner 561 Pork Goulash 599
PAN-FRIED BREADED PORK Boston Scrod with Cream, BEEF GOULASH 599
CUTLET 5 1 8
Capers, and Tomatoes 561 Osso Buco Milanese 601
Veal Cordon Bleu 518 Pescado Veracruzana 562 GREMOLATA 601
Veal Piccata with Milanese Cioppino 5 6 2 -3 Polish S tu ffed Cabbage 602
Sauce (Piccata di Vitello
GARLIC-FLAVORED CROUTONS 563 Braised Lamb Shanks 60 4
alia Milanese) 519
Poached Chicken Breast with Portuguese S tu ffed
Milanese Sauce 519
Tarragon Sauce 5 6 4 Leg of Lamb 6 0 5
Fisherman’s P la tte r 520
Farmhouse Chicken with HERBED FORCEMEAT
REM OU LA D ESA U C E 520
Angel Biscuits 5 6 4 STUFFING 6 0 5
Old-Fashioned Salt Poule a u Pot (Chicken with Lamb Navarin 606
Cod Cakes 521 Vegetables) 5 6 5
Lamb Khorma 607
Pan-Fried Brook Trout Udon Noodle Pot 566
with Bacon 5 2 2 Curried Goat w ith Green
Corned Beef w ith W inter Papaya Salad 6 0 8
Flounder a I’Orly 522 Vegetables 5 6 6
Irish Stew 608
Beer B a tter 522 Beef Noodle Soup (Pho Bo) 569
Couscous with Lamb and
Shrimp Tempura 5 2 3 Boiled Beef with Spatzle Chicken Stew 6 0 9
TEMPURA DIPPING SAUCE 5 2 3 and Potatoes (Gaisburger
Chicken Tagine 611
Crispy Tangerine-Flavored Marsch) 5 7 0
PRESERVED LEMONS 611
Chicken 5 2 4 Seafood Poached in a Saffron
Chicken Fricassee 61 2
SWEET GARLIC SAUCE 524 Broth with Fennel 5 7 0
VEAL FRICASSEE 61 2
Grandmother's Bean
Curd (M o Po Dofu) 5 2 7 Chicken and Prawn Ragout
(M a r i Muntanya) 6 1 2 -3
Hanoi Fried Fish with Dill (Cha chapter 20 braising and stewing
Ca Thang Long) 527
Braised Oxtails 581
Fried Fish Cakes 528
DEEP-FRIED ONIONS 581 chapter 22 cooking vegetables
Chiles Reltenos con Picadillo
Oaxaqueno 5 2 8 -9 Korean Braised Short
Boiled Carrots 681
Ribs (KalbiJjim) 5 8 2
Tinga Poblano 530 Boiled Edamame 681
Braised Short Ribs 584
Beef Rouladen in Burgundy Steam ed Broccoli 681
Sauce 5 8 4 -5 BROCCOLI AND TOASTED
chapter 19 steam ing and GARLIC 681
ROULADEN STUFFING 585
subm ersion cooking Glazed Beets 683
Yankee Pot Roast 5 8 6
Bass and Scallops en Creamed Corn 683
Sauerbraten 587
Papillote 5 5 3 Pan-Steam ed Carrots 6 8 4
Mole Negro 5 8 8 -9
Poached Sea Bass with Clams, PAN-STEAMED HARICOTS
Beef Stew 58 9 VERTS 6 8 4
Bacon, and Peppers 5 5 3
Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in PECAN CARROTS 684
Poached Trout with
M ea t Sauce with Rigatoni (Braciole
Saffron Mousse 5 5 5
di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni) 5 9 0

M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
Gingered Snow Peas and Braised Sauerkraut 712 Frijoles Puercos Estilo
Yellow Squash 6 8 4 French-Style Peas 712 Sinaloa 7 7 3
Green Beans with Walnuts 685 Middle Eastern Chickpeas 774
Glazed Carrots 685 Rom an-Style Lima Beans 774
Grilled Vegetables chapter 23 cooking potatoes Southwest W hite Bean Stew 775
Proven<;al-Style 6 8 6 Stewed Black Beans 775
MARINATED GRILLED Whipped Potatoes 735
F alafel 776
VEGETABLES 6 8 6 Duchesse Potatoes 735
Rice and Beans 776
Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms Boiled Parsley Potatoes 737
with Soy-Sesam e Glaze 6 8 6 Red Beans and Boiled Rice 777
Baked Potatoes with Deep-
Zucchini Pancakes with Fried Onions 7 3 7 Boiled W hite Beans 777
Tzatziki 6 8 8 Vegetarian Chili 778
Roasted Tuscan-Style
Asparagus with Lemony Potatoes 7 3 8 Rice Pilaf 780
Hollandaise 6 8 8 -9 SHORT-GRAIN W HITE RICE PILAF
Glazed Sw eet Potatoes 738
Baked Acorn Squash with (VALENCIA) 7 8 0
Mashed Sw eet Potatoes
Cranberry-Orange Compote 689 CONVERTED WHITE RICE PILAF 78 0
with Ginger 7 3 8
CRANBERRY-ORANGE W ILD RICE PILAF 780
Potatoes au Gratin (Gratin
COMPOTE 6 8 9
Dauphinoise) 7 3 9 WHEAT BERRY PILAF 780
Spaghetti Squash 691 PEARL BARLEY PILAF 780
Lyonnaise Potatoes 739
Butternut Squash Puree 691 Brown Rice P ilaf with Pecans
Chateau Potatoes 740
Curried Roasted Cauliflower 69 2 and Green Onions 7 8 0 -8 1
Delmonico Potatoes 740
Oven-Roasted Tomatoes 692 SHORT-GRAIN BROWN RICE
Hash Brown Potatoes 740 PILAF 78 1
M arinated Roasted Peppers 695
Potato Pancakes 743 Annatto Rice 781
Roasted Carrots 695
Potato Latkes 743 Arroz Blanco 781
Sh rim p -S tuffed M irlitons 696
Potatoes Anna 7 4 4 Arroz Mexicano 782
Eggplant Parmesan 69 6
M acaire Potatoes 744 Arroz Brasileiro 7 8 2
Poblanos Rellenos 699
Rosti Potatoes 7 4 4 Coconut Rice 782
SU M M E R SQUASH SALSA 699
French-Fried Potatoes 747 Risotto 783
Mushroom Quesadillas
with Two Salsas 7 0 0 Sw eet Potato Chips 7 4 7 PARMESAN RISOTTO 783

Seasonal Vegetable Tarts 701 Berny Potatoes 747 W ILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO 783

Souffleed Potatoes 748 GREEN PEA RISOTTO (R /S /E

Sauteed Arugula 702
BIS/) 7 8 3
S tir-F ried Shanghai Bok Choy C roquette Potatoes 748
RISOTTO WITH ASPARAGUS
(Qinchao Shanghai Baicai) 7 0 2 L o rette Potatoes 748 TIPS 7 8 3
Summer Squash Noodles 704 German Potato Salad 749 Risotto alia Milanese 783
Belgian Endive a la M euniere 704 Curried Sw eet Potato Salad 749 Vegetarian Risotto 784
Broccoli Rabe with Garlic and Hot Tortilla de Papas 750 Risotto with Mussels 784
Crushed Pepper (Cime di Broccoli
Basic Boiled Rice 785
con Aglio e Pepperoncino) 7 0 5
Steam ed Long-Grain
Jardiniere Vegetables 705 chapter 24 cooking grains and Rice (Lo Han) 7 8 5
Vegetable Julienne 706 legumes Sushi Rice 785
Macedoine of Vegetables 706
Black Bean Mash 768 Fried Rice with Chinese
Spinach Pancakes 707 Sausage 7 8 7
Black Beans with Peppers
Pan-Fried Zucchini 707 Thai Sticky Rice with Mangos
and Chorizo 7 6 8
Corn F ritters 707 (Mamuang Kao Nieo) 7 8 7
Vegetarian Black Bean
Vegetable Tempura 708 Crepes 771 Paella Valenciana 788
Fried Plantain Chips 708 Frijoles R efritos 771 Saffron Rice 7 8 8
TOSTONES 708 Corona Beans (Fagioli Grilled Vegetable Jambalaya 791
Ratatouille 708 all'Uccelletto) 7 7 2 BBQS PICE RUB 79 1

Braised Greens 710 Creamed Pinto Beans Rice C roquettes 79 2

Braised Fennel in B u tter 7 1 0 (Frijoles Maneados) 7 7 2 Basic Polenta 792
Braised Red Cabbage 711 Frijoles a la Charra 773 POLENTA WITH PARMESAN 792

Braised Romaine 711 Grits with Corn and Hominy 7 9 5

M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
 Congee 795 Gnocchi di Semolina G ratinati 831 SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH
CHEESE 8 7 2
M illet and Cauliflower Puree 79 6 Gnocchi di Ricotta 831
SCRAMBLED EGGS, SWEDISH-
Mixed Grain Pilaf 79 6 Gnocchi Piedmontese 832
STYLE 8 7 2
Green Onion-Bulgur Pilaf 7 9 6 -7 Spatzle 834 SCRAMBLED EGGS, HUNTER-
Kasha with Spicy Maple Bread Dumplings 835 STYLE 8 7 2
Pecans 7 9 9 Biscuit Dumplings 835 SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH
W heat Berry Salad with Oranges, BRATWURST 8 7 2
Hush Puppies 8 3 7
Cherries, and Pecans 7 9 9 SCRAMBLED EGGS GRATINE 872
Dim Sum 8 3 7
Barley Salad with Cucumber SCRAMBLED EGGS, GREEK-
POTSTICKERS 837 STYLE 8 7 2
and M int 8 0 0
Steam ed Dumplings Plain Rolled O m elet 872
Sweet and Spicy Bulgur Salad 800
(.S h a o - M a i) 8 3 8
Cracked W heat and PLAIN ROLLED EGG WHITE
Pan-Fried Dumplings OMELET 8 7 3
Tomato Salad 8 0 3
(G uoT ie ) 841 CHEESE OMELET 873
Amaranth Pancakes 803
GINGE R-S OY DIPPING SAUCE 84 1 CHEESE AND VEGETABLE
Saigon Crepes 804 OMELET 8 7 3
Potato and C heddar-Filled Pierogi
Fontina Risotto F ritters 8 0 4 with Caramelized Onions, Beurre MEAT AND CHEESE OMELET 873
Corn and Asiago Cheese N oisette, and Sage 8 4 2 HERB OMELET 873
Risotto Cakes 8 0 5 TOMATO OMELET 873
Wild Rice Cakes 80 6 OMELET FLORENTINE 873
chapter 2 6 cooking eggs OMELET MARCEL 873
OMELET OPERA 873
Hard-Cooked Eggs 866
chapter 25 cooking pasta and SEAFOOD OMELET 873
CODDLED EGGS 866
dumplings SHELLFISH OMELET 873
SOFT-COOKED EGGS 8 6 6
WESTERN OMELET 873
Fresh Egg Pasta 819 MEDIUM-COOKED EGGS 8 6 6
SPANISH OMELET 873
WHOLE WHEAT PASTA 819 Deviled Eggs 866
JELLY OMELET 873
BUCKWHEAT PASTA 819 DEVILED EGGS WITH TOMATO 866
SPINACH PASTA 819
Farm er-S tyle O m elet 873
DEVILED EGGS WITH GREENS 866
SAFFRON PASTA 819 DEVILED EGGS WITH CHEESE 866
Souffleed Cheddar O m elet 874
CITRUS PASTA 819 Pickled Eggs 868 Spinach Souffle 874
CURRIED PASTA 819 SAVORY CHEESE SOUFFLE 874
RED PICKLED EGGS 868
HERBED PASTA 819 Artichoke Souffle 875
BLACK PEPPER PASTA 8 1 9 Poached Eggs 868 Warm Goat Cheese Custard 875
RED PEPPER PASTA 819 Quiche Lorraine 87 6
Poached Eggs M om ay 869
TOMATO PASTA 819 SPINACH QUICHE 876
POACHED EGGS, FARMER-
PUMPKIN, CARROT, OR BEET STYLE 8 6 9 TOMATO AND LEEK QUICHE 876
PASTA 8 1 9
POACHED EGGS WITH CARAM ELIZED ONION QUICHE 876
Basic Boiled Pasta 819 MUSHROOMS 8 6 9
SMOKED SALMON AND DILL
O recchiette with Italian Sausage, POACHED EGGS MASSENA 869 QUICHE 8 7 6
Broccoli Rabe, and Parmesan 821 Poached Eggs with Corned BROCCOLI AND CHEDDAR
Pasta alia Carbonara 821 Beef Hash 8 6 9 QUICHE 8 7 6

S tir-F ried Glass Noodles Eggs Benedict 871 French Toast 878
(.J a p C h a e ) 8 2 2 EGGS FLORENTINE 871
Pad Thai 822 POACHED EGGS, AM ERICAN-
STYLE 871 chapter 27 salad dressings and
Tempeh Cashew Noodles 825
POACHED EGGS WITH CHICKEN LIVER salads
Lasagna di Carnevale
CHASSEUR 871
Napolitana 8 2 5
POACHED EGGS WITH SMOKED Red Wine V in a ig re tte 896
Couscous 826 SALMON 871 W HITE WINE VINAIGRETTE 896
Classic Bolognese Lasagna Fried Eggs 871 MUSTARD-HERB VINAIGRETTE 896
with Ragu and Bechamel
EGGS OVER EASY, MEDIUM , OR ROASTED GARLIC AND MUSTARD
(La sagna al Forno) 8 2 6 HARD 871 VINAIGRETTE 8 9 6
Asparagus and W hite Scrambled Eggs 872 LEMON-GARLIC VINAIGRETTE 896
Bean Lasagna 82 9
SCRAMBLED EGG WHITES 872 LEMON-PARS LEY VINAIGRETTE 896
Ravioli Bercy 830

x ii M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
Chipotle-Sherry V in a ig re tte 8 9 6 Taco Salad 913 Warm Black-Eyed Pea Salad 929
Almond-Fig V in aig rette 897 TACO SAUCE 914 Curried Rice Salad 930
Apple Cider V inaig rette 897 W ilted Spinach Salad with Warm Seafood Ravigote 930
Bacon V in a ig re tte 9 1 4
Balsamic V inaig rette 897
Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby
Curry V inaig rette 898
Greens with Robiola Cheese
Honey-Poppy Seed-C itrus chapter 2 8 sandwiches
and Walnuts 9 1 7
Dressing 8 9 8
Sherried W atercress and CIA Club 934
Fire-Roasted Tomato Apple Salad 9 1 7 Philly Hoagie 934
V inaig rette 8 9 9
Baby Spinach, Avocado, and Chicken Burger 936
Guava-Curry V in a ig re tte 899 G rapefruit Salad 9 1 8
Barbecued Beef 93 6
Truffle V in a ig re tte 900 W aldorf Salad 9 1 8
HERB AND TRUFFLE
Open-Faced Turkey Sandwich with
Celeriac and Tart Apple Salad 918 Sw eet and Sour Onions 9 3 7
VINAIGRETTE 900
Chayote Salad with Oranges Croque Monsieur 937
Peanut Oil and M alt Vinegar
(Salada de Xuxu) 9 1 9
Salad Dressing 9 0 0 Eggplant and Prosciutto
Summer Melon Salad with Panini 9 3 9
Pesto V inaig rette 901
Prosciutto 9 1 9
M A R IN ATED EGGPLANT
V inaig rette Gourmande 901
Onion and Cucumber Salad FILLIN G 939
W A L N U T O IL A N D RED WINE (Kachu mber) 9 1 9
VINAIGRETTE 901 Grilled Vegetable Sandwich
Classic Polish Cucumber Salad with Manchego Cheese 94 0
Green Goddess Dressing 901
(Mizeria Klasyczna) 9 2 0
Three Cheese M elt 940
Catalina French Dressing 902
Coleslaw 9 2 0 Reuben Sandwich 942
Peanut Dressing 902
Moroccan C arrot Salad 92 0
Tempeh Reuben 942
C aesar-Style Dressing 902
Corn and Ji'cama Salad 921
Cucumber Sandwich with
Cucumber Dressing 903
Ji'cama Salad 921 Herbed Cream Cheese 94 3
Mayonnaise 903 Green Papaya Salad 921 W atercress Sandwich with
ANCHOVY-CAPER M AYONNAISE 903 Herb Mayonnaise 9 4 3
Cucumber and Wakame
TARTAR SAUCE 903 Salad (Sunonomo) 9 2 2 Apple Sandwich with Curry
GREEN MAYONNAISE 903 Mayonnaise 9 4 3
Sliced Daikon Salad
AToli 904 (Mu Chae) 9 2 2 Gorgonzola and Pear
Blue Cheese Dressing 904 Cucumber Salad 92 2 Sandwich 9 4 4
Creamy Black Peppercorn Cucumber Yogurt Salad 9 2 3 Tomato Sandwich with
Dressing 9 0 4 Oregano Sour Cream 94 4
Chicken Salad 923
Japanese Salad Dressing 905
H ue-Style Chicken Salad 9 2 4
Ranch-Style Dressing 905 C RISPY SH ALLO TS 924
chapter 2 9 hors d’oeuvre and
Thousand Island Dressing 90 6 Tuna Salad 924
appetizers
Basil Oil 906 Egg Salad 925
Orange Oil 907 Ham Salad 925 Smoked Salmon Mousse 953
Green Onion Oil 907 Shrimp Salad 925 Blue Cheese Mousse 953
Paprika Oil 907 Pasta Salad with Pesto GOAT CHEESE MOUSSE 953
Mixed Green Salad 907 V in a ig re tte 9 2 5 Pico de Gallo 95 3
Thai Table Salad 908 European-Style Potato Salad 92 6 Salsa Verde Asada 9 5 4
Smoked Bean Curd and Potato Salad 92 6 Salsa Verde Cruda 954
Celery Salad 9 0 8 Eastern M editerranean Bread Salsa Roja 954
Caesar Salad 908 Salad (Fottoush) 9 2 6 Papaya-Black Bean Salsa 955
Wedge of Iceberg with Thousand Panzanella 927 G rap efruit Salsa 95 5
Island Dressing 90 9 Tomato and M ozzarella Salad 928 Cumberland Sauce 955
Chef’s Salad 909 Roasted Peppers (Peperoni Asian Dipping Sauce 95 6
Greek Salad 910 A rro stiti) 9 2 8
Cilantro-Lim e Soy Sauce 956
Endive Salad with Roquefort and Green Lentil Salad (Salade
des Lentilles du Puy) 9 2 8 Vietnam ese Dipping Sauce 956
Walnuts (So/ode de Roquefort,
Noix, e t Endives) 9 1 0 VARIATION 928 Spring Roll Dipping Sauce 95 7
Cobb Salad 913 Mixed Bean Salad 92 9 Yogurt Cucumber Sauce 95 7

M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
 Guacamole 958 Beef Satay with Peanut chapter 32 yeast breads
Hummus bi Tahini 9 5 8 Sauce 98 2
V itello Tonnato 983 Basic Lean Dough 1033
Baba Ghanoush 958
Lobster Salad with Beets, Mangos, Baguettes 1033
Harissa 95 9
Avocados, and Orange Oil 9 8 3 Boules 1034
Tapenade 959
Pork and Pepper Pie (Empanada Focaccia 1034
Z'hug 96 0
Gallega de Cerdo) 9 8 4 Hard Rolls 1036
Spicy Mustard 9 6 0
Ciabatta 1036
Wasabi 960
Pita Bread 1037
Roasted Red Pepper chapter 30 charcuterie and garde
Marm alade 9 6 0 Semolina Pizza Crust 1 0 3 7
manger
MARGHERITA P IZZ A 1037
Cranberry Relish 961
Seafood and Salmon Terrine 993 SPINACH P IZZA 1037
Spicy Mango Chutney 961
FLOUNDER MOUSSELINE 993 Naan Bread 1039
Curried Onion Relish 961
Pate G rand-M ere 994 Cottage Dill Rolls 1039
Pickled Ginger 962
Aspic 995 Brioche Loaf 1040
Pickled Red Onions 9 6 2
Chicken and Crayfish Terrine 99 6 BRIOCHE ATE TE 10 40
Tortilla Chips 962
Shellfish Essence 996 Raisin Bread with Cinnamon
Seviche of Scallops 96 2
Swirl 1 0 4 3
C ountry-Style Terrine (Pdte
Ceviche Estilo Acapulco 963
de Campagne) 9 9 8 Challah (3-Braid) 1044
Smoked Salmon P la tte r 96 3
Pork Tenderloin Roulade 999 S o ft Dinner Rolls 1 0 4 5
Tuna Carpaccio ( Crudo di
MEAT BRINE 99 9 Sw eet Dough 1045
Tonno alia B attuta) 9 6 5
Chicken Galantine 1000 Sticky Buns 1046
Coconut Macadam ia Shrimp 96 6
Foie Gras Terrine 1 0 01
Clams Casino 966
FOIE GRAS ROULADE 1001
Chesapeake-Style
Venison Terrine 1002 chapter 33 pastry doughs and
Crab Cakes 9 6 9
Duck Terrine with Pistachios batters
Broiled Shrimp with Garlic 96 9
and Dried Cherries 1 0 0 2 -3
S tu ffed Shrimp 970 Basic Pie Dough (3 -2 -1 ) 1070
Chicken Liver Pate 1004
Samosas 970 B utterm ilk Biscuits 1070
Duck and Smoked Ham
Tofu Cakes with Portobello Cream Scones 1072
Terrine 1 0 0 4 -5
Mushrooms and Mango RAISIN SCONES 1072
Ketchup 971 Pate Dough 1006
HAM AND CHEDDAR SCONES 10 72
SAFFRON PATE DOUGH 1006
Pescado Frito 97 2 Irish Soda Bread 1072
Seafood Pate en Croute 1008
Mussels with W hite Wine
B utterm ilk Pancakes 1073
and Shallots (M oules a Vegetable Terrine with
Goat Cheese 1 0 1 0 BASIC WAFFLES 1073
la Mariniere) 9 7 5
BANANA PANCAKES 1073
Tuna and Bean Salad (Insalata Pate Spice 1 0 11
di Tonno e Fagioli) 9 7 5 CHOCOLATE CHIP PANCAKES 1073
Gravlax 10 11
BLUEBERRY PANCAKES 1073
Baby Squid in Black Ink Sauce
(Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean) 9 7 6 OATMEAL PANCAKES 10 73

Octopus "Fairground Style" Fried Bread (Puri) 1074

chapter 31 baking m ise en place
(Pulpo a Feira) 976 Johnny Cakes 1074
Grilled Shrimp Paste on Egg Wash 1023 Crepes Suzette 1075
Sugarcane (Chao Tom) 9 7 7 Simple Syrup 1023 DESSERT CREPES 1076
Mushroom Strudel with COFFEE SIM PLE SYRUP 1023 P u ff Pastry Dough 1076
Goat Cheese 9 7 8 LIQUEUR-FLAVORED SIMPLE
Blitz P u ff Pastry Dough 1077
Black Bean Cakes 978 SYRUP 1 0 2 3
Basic M u ffin Recipe 1078
Potato Om elet ( Tortilla Chantilly C ream /W hipped
Cream fo r Garnish 1 0 2 3 CRANBERRY-ORANGE
Espanola) 9 7 9
M U FFIN S 1 0 7 8
Spring Rolls 98 0 Common Meringue 1024
BLUEBERRY MUFFINS 1078
California Rolls 981 Swiss M eringue 1024
Bran M uffins 1078
Vietnam ese Salad Rolls 981 Italian Meringue 1024
Corn M uffins 1079
Beef Carpaccio 982 CORNBREAD 1079

x iv M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
 I

B anana-N utB read 1079 chapter 35 fillings, frostings, and BASIL ICE CREAM 1143

Pumpkin Bread 1 0 81 dessert sauces TARTLET SHELLS 1144

Pound Cake 1081 TUIL ES 1144

Italian Buttercream 1125
BASIL SAUCE 1145
Devil's Food Cake 1082
Apple Pie 1125 LEMON CURD 1145
Angel Food Cake 1082
Cherry Pie 1126 BLUEBERRY COMPOTE 1145
Vanilla Sponge Cake 1083
Pecan Pie 1126 Key Lime Tart 1 1 4 6
CHOCOLATE SPONGE CAKE 1083
CRANBERRY-PECAN PIE 1126 CREME CHANTILLY 1146
Chocolate XS Cake 1083
Lemon Meringue Pie 1127 GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST 1 1 4 6
Cheesecake 1084
Pumpkin Pie 1127 KEY LIME TART 1 1 4 6
GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST 1084
Frangipane Filling 1128 STRAWBERRY COULIS 1146
P a te a C h o u x 1084
Pear Frangipane T artlets 1128 Mango and Passion-Poached
GOUGERES(GRUYERE CHEESE
POACHED PEARS 1128 Pineapple with Coconut Flan
PUFFS) 1 0 8 4
and Cilantro Sorbet 1 1 4 9
Eclairs 1 0 8 5 Hard Ganache 1128
MANGO AND PASSION-POACHED
CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS 1085 Chocolate Sauce 1129 PINEAPPLE 1 1 4 9

Profiteroles 1085 Sabayon 1129 CILANTRO SORBET 1149

IC E C R E A M -F ILLE D ZABAGLIONE 1129 COCONUT CHIPS 1150

PROFITEROLES 10 85 Classic Caramel Sauce 1129 COCONUT FLANS 1150
1 -2 -3 Cookie Dough 1086 Raspberry Coulis 1129 S’mores 1 1 51
Almond-Anise Biscotti 1 0 8 6 Apricot Glaze 1130 GRAHAM CRACKER ICE
Pecan Diamonds 1088 CREAM 11 51
Dried Cherry Sauce 1130
CHOCOLATE GRAHAM DECOR 1152
Chocolate Chunk Cookies 1088 Apple B u tter 1130
GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST FOR
CHERRY-CHOCOLATE CHUNK Fruit Salsa 1 1 3 0 S ’MORES 1 1 5 2
COOKIES 1 0 8 8
MA R S H MA LL OW 1152
Mudslide Cookies 1089
BEIGN ET TR UFF LE CENTERS 1153
Oatm eal-Raisin Cookies 1089
chapter 36 plated desserts CLASSIC CARAMEL SAUCE 1153
Nut Tuile Cookies 1090
W HITE SAUCE 1154
Fudge Brownies 1090 Warm Date Spice Cake with
Dates, Butterscotch Sauce, and CHOCOLATE BEIGNET
Cinnamon Ice Cream 1 1 3 5 BATTER 1 1 5 4

C INNAMO N IC E C RE A M 1135 Pro fitero les 1157

chapter 34 custards, cream s, and VANILLA ICE CREAM 1157
APPLE CHIPS 1136
mousses MILK CHOCOLATE C INNAMON COFFEE ICE CREAM 1158
STICKS 1 1 3 6 D U L C E D E L E C H E IC E CREAM 1158
Vanilla Sauce 1098
DATE SPICE CAKE 1137 CORN FLAKE CRUNCH 1159
Pastry Cream 1098
P H Y L LO T U B E S 1137 CHOCOLATE SAUCE 1159
CHOCOLATE PASTRY CREAM 10 98
BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE 1 1 3 7 VANILLA CARAMEL SAUCE 1159
Pastry Cream fo r S ouffles 1099
ORANGE-SCENTED CREME CHOCOLATE PATE A CHOUX 1160
Creme Brulee 1099 CHANTILLY 1 1 3 8
CHOCOLATE STRAWS 1160
Creme Caramel 1100 CARAME LIZE D APPLES 1138

Vanilla Ice Cream 1103 Blackberry and Port-Poached

CHOCOLATE IC EC REAM 1103 Pears with R icotta Cream
and Sable Cookies 1 1 3 9
COFFEE ICE CREAM 1103
BLACKBERRY AND PORT-POACHED
RASPBERRY ICE CREAM 1103
PEARS 1 1 3 9
Diplomat Cream 1 1 0 3 SABLE COOKIES 1140
Chocolate Mousse 1 1 0 4 RICOTTA CREAM 1140
Raspberry Mousse 1 1 0 4 Lemon Souffle Tart with Basil
Chocolate Souffle 1106 Ice Cream and Blueberry
Bread and B u tter Pudding 1106 Compote 1 1 4 3

M A S T E R RECIPE LIST xv
acknowledgments
THANK YOU to th e fo llo w in g fa c u lty and s t a f f a t The C ulinary In s titu te o f A m erica fo r
a ssistin g in the revision f o r th e ninth e d itio n o f The P rofe s sio n al Chef: Tim Ryan, CMC,
AAC; M ark Erickson, CMC; Brad Barnes, CMC, CCA, AAC; Lou Jones; Charlie Rascoll; Eve
Felder; Thomas L. Vaccaro.
The h e a rt o f th is book is th e d e ta ile d exp la n a tio n o f cooking m etho ds in w ords and
images, as w e ll as an am azingly diverse c o lle c tio n o f recipes. For th e ir d e d ica tio n to ex­
cellence in several areas (reading and c ritiq u in g th e te x t, te s tin g and review ing recipes,
and being th e hands you see in th e ph otographs), th e fo llo w in g in dividu als are also to be
co n g ra tu la te d and thanked:

Mark Ainsworth '86, CHE, PC III, CEC Martin Frei, CHE

Clemens Averbeck, CEC, CHE Michael A. Garnero, CHE

David J. Barry '95, CHE Lynne Gigliotti ’88, CHE

Frederick C. Brash '76, CHE Peter Greweling, CMB, CHE

Elizabeth E. Briggs, CHE Carol D. Hawran '93

Robert Briggs Marc Haymon '81, CMB, CHE

David J. Bruno '88, PC lll/CEC, CHE James W. Heywood '67, CHE

Kate Cavotti, CMB, CHE George B. Higgins '78, CMB, CHE

Dominick Cerrone James Michael Jennings '93

Shirley Shuliang Cheng, CWC, CHE Stephen J. Johnson '94

Howard F. Clark 7 1 , CCE, CWC, CHE David Kamen '88, PC lll/CEC, CCE,
CHE
Richard J. Coppedge, Jr., CMB, CHE
Morey Kanner '84, CHE
Gerard Coyac, CHE
Cynthia Keller '83
Phillip Crispo PC lll/CEC/CHE
Thomas K ie f ’78, CHE
Paul Delle Rose ’94, CHE
Joseph Klug '82, CHE
Joseph DePaola '94, CHE
Todd R. Knaster, CMB, CHE
John DeShetler ’68, CHE, PCII/CCC
John Kowalski '77, CHE
Joseph W .D iP erri'77, CHE
Pierre LeBlanc, CHE
Alain Dubernard, CHE, CMB
Xavier Le Roux, CHE
Stephen J. Eglinski, CHE, CMB
Alain L. Levy, CCE, CHE
Anita Olivarez Eisenhauer, CHE
Anthony J. Ligouri, CHE
Mark Elia
Dwayne F. LiPuma '86, CHE
Joseba Encabo, CHE

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
James Maraldo, CHE Thomas Schneller, CHE

Hubert J. Martini, CEC, CCE, CHE, Dieter G. Schorner, CMB, CHE

AAC
Johann Sebald, CHE
Bruce S. M a t t e l'80, CHE
Michael Skibitcky, PCIII, CEC, CHE
Francisco Migoya, CMB, CHE
David F. Smythe, CCE, CEC, CHE
Darryl Mosher, CHE
Brannon Soileau '91, CHE
Robert Mullooly '93
Rudolf Spiess, CHE
Tony Nogales’ 88, PCII, CEC, CHE
John J. S te in '80, CFBE, CHE
Michael Pardus '81, CHE
Scott Schwartz '89, CEC, CHE
Robert Perillo '86, CHE
Jurgen Temme, CMB, CHE
William Phillips '88, CHE
Alberto Vanoli, CHE
Katherine Polenz '73, CHE
Howard Velie, CEC, CHE
Heinrich Rapp, CHE
Gerard Viverito, CEC, CHE
Surgeio Remolina, CHE
Hinnerk von Bargen, CHE
John Reilly '88,CCC,CHE
Stephane Weber, CHE
Theodore R o e '91, CHE
Jonathan A. Zearfoss, CEC, CCE, CCP,
Paul R. Sartory '78 CHE
Giovanni Scappin Gregory Z ifc h a k '80, CHE
Eric L. Schawaroch '84, CHE

For th e p ro fe ssio n a l ch e f th e re are m any s u b je cts to m aster. A special th a n k you to

th o se who helped develop and review ch a p te rs d e d ica te d to m anagem ent, fo o d safe ty,
and n u tritio n :

Marjorie Livingston, RD, CHE

Richard Vergili, CHE

The im ages in th is book w ere cre a te d in th e In s titu te 's stu d io s and kitchens. M any
tha nks to p h o to g ra p h e r Ben Fink w hose e x p e rtis e and a r tis tr y is the p e rfe c t com p le­
m en t to th e te x t, tech niq ue s, and recipes.
Thanks to the book's designer, A lison Lew o f V e rtig o Design, who b ro u g h t it all t o ­
g e th e r b e a u tifu lly and to th e p ro d u c tio n e d ito r a t W iley, Alda Trabucchi, fo r her tire le s s
a tte n tio n to every d e ta il, large and sm all. And fin a lly , th a n k you to Pam Chirls, executive
e d ito r, fo r her ove rall guidance and vision.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
 introduction
BECOMING A CHEF is a ca re e r-lo n g process. C ooking is a dynam ic p ro fe s s io n — one th a t
pro vid es som e o f th e g re a te s t challenges as w e ll as som e o f th e g re a te s t rew ards. There
is always a n o th e r level o f p e rfe c tio n to achieve and a n o th e r s k ill to m aster. It is our hope
th a t th is book w ill fu n c tio n bo th as a sp rin g b o a rd in to fu tu re g ro w th and as a refere nce
p o in t to give b a lla s t to th e lessons s till to be learned.
By the na ture o f its en cyclo ped ic su b je ct coverage, th is te x t is su ite d to a v a rie ty
o f curricula , w h e th e r as p a rt o f an e x is tin g program or th ro u g h in de pen de nt study. An
in s tru c to r may choose to use all o r p a rt o f its c o n te n ts; th e s tu d e n t may use it to ad­
vance his o r her learning by em p lo ying it as a broad, basic te x t o r as a re fe re n ce to o l to
answ er s p e c ific qu estio ns ab ou t a p a rtic u la r technique. The tech niq ue s as explained in
th is book have all been te s te d in th e In s titu te ’s kitche ns. Each re p re se n ts one o f many
po ssib le va ria tio n s. The fa c t th a t all v a ria tio n s are n o t included in th is te x t does not
im p ly th a t o th e r m etho ds are in co rre ct. E xperience w ill teach th e s tu d e n t many "tric k s
o f th e trade." The t it le o f th is w o rk should n o t p u t it in to th e ra rifie d ca te g o ry o f books
to be used only by th o se w o rk in g in re s ta u ra n t or h o te l kitche ns. The basic lessons o f
coo kin g are th e same w h e th e r one pre pa res fo o d f o r paying g u ests or fo r one's fa m ily
and frie n d s . T h ere fore, we hope th a t th o se who lo ok to coo kin g f o r a cre a tive o u tle t w ill
com e to reg ard th is book as a valuable to o l.
This book is su ite d to a v a rie ty o f te a ch in g s itu a tio n s because th e m a te ria l is a r­
ranged in a logical, p ro gre ssive sequence. C h ap te r One covers th e h is to ry o f cooking as a
p ro fe ssio n and exam ines th e skills and a ttrib u te s o f a p ro fe s s io n a l che f and o th e r m em ­
bers o f th e f oo dse rvice p ro fe ssio n . (For m ore in fo rm a tio n ab ou t ta b le service and dining
room op era tions, co n su lt A t Your Service o r R e m arkab le Service.)
Since f o o dse rvice is a business, som e o f th e e le m e n ta ry aspects o f fo o d c o s t­
ing are discussed in C hapter Two, as is how to a d a p t re c ip e s — fro m th is book or any
o th e r— f o r use in a s p e c ific p ro fe ssio n a l kitchen. Know ing how to ad ap t recipes is useful
f o r scheduling, c o n tro llin g costs, and im p ro vin g q u a lity. (For m ore d e ta ils ab ou t c u li­
nary m ath, co n su lt M a t h f o r the P rofe ssio n al Kitchen.) N u tritio n and fo o d science have
becom e p a rt o f th e everyday language o f th e p ro fe s s io n a l kitche n, and C hapter Three
review s som e basic con cep ts o f n u tritio n and science, p a rtic u la rly as th e y re la te to
cooking. (For m ore in fo rm a tio n ab o u t n u tritio n a l cooking, co n su lt Techniques o f H ealthy
Cooking.) Food and kitch e n s a fe ty are o f in crea sing concern in all fo o d s e rv ic e op e ra ­
tio n s, and C hapter Four p re se n ts fu n d a m e n ta l con cep ts and procedures fo r assuring
th a t safe, w holesom e fo o d is pre pa red in a safe en viro nm en t.
Counted am ong th e basics in th e kitch e n is th e a b ility to seek o u t and purchase the
b e st po ssib le in g re d ie n ts. P art Two is a ca ta lo g o f th e to o ls and in g re d ie n ts used in the
p ro fe s s io n a l kitche n, and includes in fo rm a tio n re g ard ing p ro d u c t sp e c ific a tio n s , p u r­
chasing, and such p ro cessing concerns as trim loss. There are sep ara te cha pters devoted
to m eats, p o u ltry , and game; fis h and sh e llfish ; fru its , veg etab le s, and fre s h herbs; dairy
p ro d u cts and eggs; and nonperishable goods such as oils, flo u rs , grains, and dried pastas.
C ooking is n o t alw ays a p e rfe c tly precise a rt, b u t a good grasp o f the basics gives
th e ch e f or s tu d e n t the a b ility not only to apply th e tech niq ue , b u t also to learn the s ta n ­
dards o f q u a lity so th a t th e y begin to develop a sense o f how coo kin g w orks. P art Three
is de voted to stocks, sauces, and soups. The p a rt opens w ith a ch a p te r covering such

x v iii I N T R O D U C T IO N
basic m ise en place tech niq ue s as p re p a rin g and using seasoning and a ro m a tic com bina­
tio n s (b o uq uet garni and sach et d'epices), m ire p o ix, and th icke n e rs (roux and starches).
P a rt Four p re se n ts th e tech niq ue s used to cook m eats, p o u ltry , fish, and she llfish .
This p a rt covers th e basic fa b ric a tin g m etho ds f o r fa m ilia r cuts o f m eat, p o u ltry , and fish
and the n d e m o n stra te s how to g rill, ro a st, saute, pan fry , s tir- fr y , deep fry , steam , poach,
stew , and braise. These im p o rta n t lessons are p re se n te d in cle ar s te p -b y -s te p p h o to ­
graphs, w ith e x p la n a to ry te x t and a m odel recipe.
In P art Five, cha pters c o n c e n tra te on p re p a ra tio n tech niq ue s fo r vegetables,
grains and legum es, pasta and dum plings, and p o ta to e s. P art Six covers b re a k fa s t and
garde manger, w ith ch a p te rs cove rin g eggs, salad dressings and salads, sandwiches,
and garde m anger ite m s such as pa tes and te rrin e s . (For fu r th e r in fo rm a tio n on these
sub je cts, co n su lt Garde M anger: The A r t an d C r a ft o f th e Cold Kitchen, Third E d itio n .)
Baking and p a s try is p re se n te d in P a rt Seven, w ith a tte n tio n paid to th e p re p a ra tio n o f
breads and rolls; cakes and cookies; p a s try doughs and crusts; a v a rie ty o f fillin g s , icings,
and glazes; and p la te d de sserts.
The recipes included in th is book are exam ples o f th e w ide range o f p o s s ib ilitie s
open to th e s tu d e n t once th e basics are m astere d. It should be no ted th a t these recipes
have bo th A m erican and m e tric m easurem ents. The recipe yie ld s re fle c t re a l-life coo k­
ing s itu a tio n s : som e item s, such as sto c k s and soups, are p re pa red in large q u a n titie s,
w h ile oth ers, such as sautes and g rills , are p re pa red a la m inute, a fe w p o rtio n s a t a tim e.
La rge r roa sts, braises, stew s, and side dishes g e n e ra lly have yie ld s o f 10 servings; any
m arinades, sauces, o r co n d im e n ts included in th e recipes th a t are prepa red in advance
are n o rm a lly given in q u a n titie s to produce a yie ld o f 10 servings. These yie ld s may not
alw ays s u it th e s tu d e n t w ho is using th e book o u ts id e o f a p ro fe s s io n a l kitchen. In m ost
cases, th e y can be reduced o r increased in o rd e r to pre pa re th e c o rre c t num ber o f s e rv­
ings. Baking recipe yie ld s are based on s p e c ific w e ig h t ra tio s, however, and m ust be f o l­
lowed exactly.
The new lo o k in th is new e d itio n re fle c ts th e w ay we th in k ab ou t tea chin g cooking.
We learn b e st when we un de rsta nd n o t only how to do som ething, b u t why we should do
it th a t way. From th is grounded approach, s tu d e n ts a t any level can c o n fid e n tly ta ke new
d ire c tio n s in th e ir coo kin g careers.

I N T R O D U C T IO N x ix
the culinary prof<
PART 1
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introduction to
the profession
Evolving into a professional culinarian is a lifelong journey/full of learned
details and years of experience. It is challenging and deraffiding. Specific
techniques and acquired knowledge are continually tested and improved
upon. The specialized training required is intricate am precise. Deciding
where to begin your study is just as important as tljfp ro c e s s of learning.
becoming a culinary professional
A sound and th o ro u g h e d uca tion em phasizing th e c u li­
nary fu n d a m e n ta ls is th e f ir s t ste p to becom ing flu e n t
in the trade . A s p irin g p ro fe ssio n a ls w ill fin d fo rm a l
tra in in g a t an a c c re d ite d school an e xce lle n t beginning.
O th er tra in in g a lte rn a tiv e s include ta k in g p a rt in special
a p p re n tice sh ip program s o r s e lf-d ire c te d courses o f
study. The process involves advancing fro m kitche n to
kitch e n by learning a t th e side o f chefs who are involved
in th e d a y-to -d a y business o f running a p ro fe ssio n a l
kitchen. The goal is to ensure a th o ro u g h u n de rsta nd ing
o f basic and advanced cu lin a ry techniques, reg ard less o f
th e ty p e o f tra in in g received.
C re atin g a n e tw o rk o f p ro fe ssio n a l colleagues and
in d u s try c o n ta cts is im p o rta n t fo r fu tu re developm ent.
The avenue o f g ro w th th a t includes w o rk in g w ith others,
sharing in fo rm a tio n , and com m u nica ting re g u la rly w ill
help to keep your own w o rk fre s h and co n tem po rary.
the attributes of a culinary professional
Each m em ber o f a p ro fe ssio n is resp on sible fo r th e p ro ­
fessio n's image, w h e th e r he or she is a teacher, lawyer,
doctor, o r culinarian. Those who have made th e g re a te s t
im pression know th a t th e card in al v irtu e s o f th e culinary
p ro fe ssio n are an open and in q u irin g m ind, an a p p re cia ­
tio n o f and d e d ica tio n to q u a lity w h ere ver it is found,
and a sense o f re s p o n s ib ility . Success also depends on
several ch a ra cte r tra its , som e o f w hich are inherent,
some o f which are d ilig e n tly c u ltiv a te d th ro u g h o u t a
career. These include:
» C O M M ITM E N TT O SERVICE— The degree to which
a foodservice professional can o ffe r a quality prod­
uct, as well as thorough customer satisfaction, is
the chef as a businessperson
As you con tinu e you r career, you w ill move fro m p o s i­
tio n s where your te ch n ica l prow ess is your g re a te s t
c o n trib u tio n in to tho se where you r sk ills as an execu­
tive , an a d m in is tra to r, and a m anager are m ore cle arly
in dem and. This does n o t mean th a t y ou r a b ility to g rill,
saute, or ro a s t fo o d s to th e exa ct p o in t o f doneness is
less im p o rta n t than it was b e fo re . It does mean th a t you
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
An e sta b lish e d n e tw o rk also makes it much easier fo r
you to fin d a new p o s itio n or q u a lifie d em ployees.
Learning new skills to gain a c o m p e titiv e stance
and encourage c re a tiv ity should be an ongoing p a rt o f
you r career de velopm ent. B e n e ficia l and rew arding o p ­
p o rtu n itie s re s u lt fro m a tte n d in g con tin u in g education
classes, w orkshops, and sem inars. Remain up to date
w ith th e fo llo w in g in fo rm a tiv e resources:
» Magazines
» New sletters
» Instructional videos
» Web sites
» Government publications
» Books
the degree to which they will succeed in providing
excellent service.
» SENSE OF R E S P O N S IB ILITY — The responsibility
of a culinary professional includes respecting not
just the customer and his or her needs but also the
s ta ff, food, equipment, and facility.
» SOUND JUDG M ENT— The ability to judge what
is right and appropriate in each work situation is
acquired throughout a life tim e of experience; good
judgm ent is a prerequisite fo r becoming and re­
maining a professional.
w ill be called on to learn and assum e ta sks and re sp o n si­
b ilitie s th a t are m ore m anagerial, m arking a s h ift in the
e vo lu tio n o f your career.
Become a g o o d executive. E xecutives are th e in d i­
vid ua ls who develop a m ission o r a plan fo r a com pany
o r org an izatio n. They are also th e ones responsible
fo r de veloping a system to a llow th a t plan to come to
fru itio n . As an executive, you m ust sho ulder a large p o r­
tio n o f re s p o n s ib ility f o r th e success or fa ilu re o f your
e sta b lish m e n t. E xecutives d o n't o p e ra te in a vacuum,
however. N or do th e y em erge fu ll blow n one day o u t o f
th e blue. Even b e fo re you w ear a ja c k e t e m b roid ere d
w ith "E xe cutive Chef,” you w ill have begun to exercise
your a b ilitie s as an executive.
Become a g o o d ad m in istra to r. Once an overall goal
or plan has been laid down, th e ne xt ta s k is to im p le ­
m en t and tra c k th a t plan. Now y ou r hat becom es th a t o f
an a d m in is tra to r. Som e a d m in is tra tiv e du tie s may not
sound a t all g la m o ro u s— p re p a rin g schedules, tra c k in g
deliveries, c o m p u tin g costs, and so fo rth . If a re s ta u ra n t
is sm all, th e exe cutive and a d m in is tra to r w ill be the
same person. T hat same person also m ig h t be the one
who dons a u n ifo rm and w o rks th e line. The be st ad m in­
is tra to rs are th o se who can cre a te a fe e lin g th ro u g h o u t
the e n tire s t a f f th a t each person has a stake in g e ttin g
th in g s done c o rre c tly . When you give people th e o p p o r­
tu n ity to help make de cisions and pro vid e the m w ith the
to o ls the y need to p e rfo rm o p tim a lly , you w ill see th a t it
is easier to achieve th e goals you have e sta b lish e d on an
exe cutive level.
Learn to use the im p o rta n t to o ls o f your business;
budgets, acco un ting system s, and in v e n to ry c o n tro l
system s all play a role. M any org an izatio ns, fro m the
la rg e st chains to th e sm a lle st one-person ca te rin g
com pany, re ly upon s o ftw a re syste m s th a t allow the m
to e ffic ie n tly a d m in is te r a num ber o f areas: in ven to ry,
purchases, losses, sales, p ro fits , fo o d costs, cu sto m e r
com p la ints, re se rva tio n s, pa yroll, schedules, and bud­
gets. If you are n o t using a system capable o f tra c k in g all
th is in fo rm a tio n and m ore, you cannot be as e ffe c tiv e as
you need to be.
Become a g o od manager. M anaging a re sta u ra n t, or
any o th e r business, is a jo b th a t req uire s th e a b ility to
handle fo u r areas e ffe c tiv e ly : physical assets, in fo rm a ­
tio n , people (human resources), and tim e . The g re a te r
your sk ills in m anaging any o f the se areas, th e g re a te r
your p o te n tia l f o r success. M any m anagem ent system s
to d a y stre ss th e use o f q u a lity as a ya rd s tic k . Every as­
p e ct o f your o p e ra tio n needs to be seen as a w ay to im ­
prove th e q u a lity o f service you p ro vid e your custom ers.
As we look a t w h a t you m ig h t be e xp ected to do in o rd e r
to manage e ffe c tiv e ly , th e fu n d a m e n ta l qu estio n you
need to ask, over and over, is th is: How w ould a change
(or lack o f change) in a given area a ffe c t th e q u a lity o f
c h a p te r 1 » IN T R O D U C T I O N TO THE P R O F ES SIO N
service or goods th a t you are o ffe rin g your custom er?
C o m p e titio n con tinu es to increase, and unless your
e s ta b lis h m e n t is d iffe re n t, b e tte r, fa s te r, or unique in
some way, th e re is every chance th a t it may n o t survive,
le t alone prosper.
M ANAGING PHYSICAL ASSETS
Physical asse ts are th e e q u ip m e n t and supplies needed
to do business. In th e case o f a re sta u ra n t, these m ig ht
include fo o d and beverage in ven to ry, tab les, chairs, lin ­
ens, china, fla tw a re , glassw are, co m p u te rs and p o in t o f
sale system s, cash re g iste rs, kitch e n equipm ent, clean­
ing supplies, and w a re-w a shing machines. When we ta lk
ab o u t m anaging physical assets, we are considering how
a n yth in g th a t you m ust purchase o r pay f o r a ffe c ts your
a b ility to do business w ell. The f ir s t ste p in bring ing the
expenses a sso cia te d w ith you r physical assets under
c o n tro l is to know w h a t your expenses a ctu a lly are. Then
you can begin th e process o f m aking the ad ju stm e nts
and in s titu tin g th e c o n tro l system s th a t w ill keep your
o rg a n iza tio n o p e ra tin g a t m axim al e ffic ie n c y . One o f
th e b ig g e s t expenses fo r any re s ta u ra n t w ill always be
fo o d and beverage costs. You o r your purchasing agent
w ill have to w o rk hard to develop and sustain a good
purchasing system . The in fo rm a tio n fo u n d in P art Two o f
th is book can help. Because each op e ra tio n has d iffe re n t
needs, th e re are no h a rd -a n d -fa s t rules, ju s t princip le s
th a t you w ill ap ply to you r own situ a tio n .
M ANAGING INFORMATION
You may o fte n fe e l th a t you can never keep cu rre n t in all
th e im p o rta n t areas o f your w ork. Given the sheer v o l­
ume o f in fo rm a tio n being ge n e ra te d each day, you are
p ro b a b ly rig h t. The a b ility to ta p in to the in fo rm a tio n
reso urce s you need, using all ty p e s o f m edia and te c h ­
nology, has never been m ore im p o rta n t. R estaurants,
menus, and tre n d s in dinin g room design have all been
d ra m a tic a lly im p a cte d by such s o c ie ta l tre n d s as busier,
o n -th e -g o life s ty le s and in crea sing in te re s t in w o rld
cuisines. P re va ilin g ta s te s in p o litic s , a rt, fashion, m ov­
ies, and m usic do have an e ffe c t on w h a t people eat and
w here and how th e y w a n t to eat it. In fo rm a tio n g a th e r­
ing can becom e a fu ll- tim e ta s k on its own. To make use
o f th e in fo rm a tio n available, you m ust be able to analyze
and eva lu ate c a re fu lly to s if t o u t th e im p o rta n t m a te ria l
fro m useless data.
M A N A G I N G H U M A N RES OURCES
R e sta ura nt o p e ra tio n s re ly d ire c tly on th e w o rk and
d e d ica tio n o f a num ber o f people, fro m executives and
a d m in is tra to rs to line cooks, w a it s ta ff, and m a in te ­
nance and cleaning s ta ff. No m a tte r how large o r sm all
your s t a f f m ay be, th e a b ility to engage all your w o rke rs
in a tea m e f f o r t is one o f th e m ajor fa c to rs in d e te rm in ­
ing w h e th e r you w ill succeed o r not.
Your goal should be to cre a te an en viro n m e n t in
w hich all s t a f f fe e l th e y have a d is tin c t and m easurable
c o n trib u tio n to make w ith in th e org an izatio n. The f ir s t
ta s k is e sta b lish in g clear c rite ria , o th e rw is e known as
a jo b d e scrip tio n . Training is an o th e r key com ponent. If
you w a n t som eone to do a jo b w ell, you f ir s t have to both
explain and d e m o n stra te th e q u a lity sta n d a rd s th a t you
e xp e ct to see. You need to c o n tin u a lly re in fo rc e tho se
stan dard s w ith clear, o b je c tiv e eva lu a tio n o f an em ­
ployee's w o rk th ro u g h fee d b a ck, c o n s tru c tiv e c ritic is m ,
and, when necessary, a d d itio n a l tra in in g o r d is c ip lin a ry
m easures.
The m anagem ent o f human resources includes
several legal re s p o n s ib ilitie s . Everyone has th e rig h t to
w o rk in an e n viro n m e n t th a t is fre e fro m physical haz­
ards. This means th a t as an em ployer, you m ust provide
a w orkspace th a t is w ell lit, p ro p e rly v e n tila te d , and fre e
fro m obvious dangers such as im p ro p e rly m aintained
equipm ent. Em ployees m ust have access to p o ta b le
w a te r and ba th ro o m fa c ilitie s . Beyond th is bare m in i­
mum, you may o ffe r a lo cke r room , a laundry fa c ility
th a t pro vid es clean u n ifo rm s and aprons, or o th e r such
am enities.
W orkers' c om pensation, un em p loym e nt insurance,
and d is a b ility insurance are also you r re s p o n s ib ility . You
are re q u ire d to make all legal d e d u ctio n s fro m an em ­
ployee's paycheck and to re p o rt all earnings p ro p e rly to
s ta te and fe d e ra l agencies. L ia b ility insurance (to cover
any harm to your fa c ility , em ployees, o r guests) m ust be
ke p t up to da te and a t adequate levels.
You may also choose to o ffe r a d d itio n a l fo rm s o f as­
sistan ce as p a rt o f an em ployee b e n e fits package. L ife
insurance, m edical and de n ta l insurance, assistance w ith
such th in g s as de pe nd ent care, a d u lt lite ra c y tra in in g ,
and e n ro llm e n t in and s u p p o rt f o r tho se en ro lle d in sub­
stance abuse program s are all ite m s o f w hich you should
be aware. In an in cre a sin g ly tig h t la bo r m arke t, a g e n e r­
ous b e n e fits package can make th e d iffe re n c e in the
c alibe r o f em ployee you are able to a ttra c t and retain.
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
You m ust keep a p ro p e rly co m p le te d 1-9 fo rm on file
f o r every em ployee, and you should be fa m ilia r w ith the
re g u la tio n s th a t could a ffe c t you or th o se you employ.
The Im m ig ra tio n and N a tu ra liz a tio n Service (INS) w ilt
pro vid e th e necessary in fo rm a tio n .
M AN AG ING TIME
It may seem th a t no m a tte r how hard you w o rk or how
much planning you do, th e days aren’t long enough.
Learning new sk ills so th a t you can make the be st pos­
sible use o f th e tim e you have c e rta in ly ou gh t to be an
ongoing p a rt o f you r care er developm ent. If you look
over your op e ra tio n , you w ill see w here tim e is w asted.
In m o st op e ra tio n s, th e to p fiv e tim e w a ste rs are
lack o f clear p rio ritie s f o r tasks; poor s t a f f train in g;
p o or com m u nica tion ; p o o r org an izatio n; and m issing or
inad equ ate to o ls to accom plish tasks. To com b at these
tim e w a ste rs, use th e fo llo w in g s tra te g ie s.
Invest tim e in reviewing daily opera tions. Consider
th e w ay you, you r cow orkers, and you r s t a f f spend the
day. Does everyone have a basic un de rsta n d in g o f which
ta sks are m o s t im p o rta n t? Do th e y know when to begin
a p a rtic u la r ta s k in o rd e r to b rin g it to co m p le tio n on
tim e ? It can be an eye-opening experience to ta ke a hard
lo ok a t w here th e w o rkda y goes. Once you see th a t you
and your s t a f f need to w a lk to o fa r to g a th e r basic ite m s
o r th a t th e person who washes th e dishes is s ittin g idle
fo r th e f ir s t tw o hours o f th e s h ift, you can ta ke steps
to re c tify th e problem . You can t r y to reorganize s to r ­
age space. You may decide to tra in the dishw asher to do
som e prep w ork, or you can re w rite th e schedule so th a t
th e s h ift begins tw o hours later. U n til you are o b je ctive
ab ou t w h a t needs to be done and in w h a t order, you can't
begin th e process o f saving tim e.
Invest tim e in t rain in g others. If you exp ect som eone
to do a jo b p ro p e rly, ta ke enough tim e to explain the
ta s k ca re fu lly. W alk y o u rs e lf and you r s t a f f throu gh the
jo b s th a t m ust be done, and be sure th a t everyone un­
de rsta nd s how to do th e w ork, w here to fin d necessary
item s, how fa r each p e rson’s re s p o n s ib ility extends, and
w h a t to do in case a q u e stio n o r em ergency com es up.
Give your s t a f f th e y a rd s tic k s th e y need to evaluate
th e jo b and d e te rm in e if th e y have done w h a t was re ­
quested, in th e a p p ro p ria te fashion, and on tim e . If you
do n't in ve st th is tim e up fro n t, you may fin d y o u rs e lf
squandering precious tim e fo llo w in g your w o rkers
around, p ickin g up the slack and handling w o rk th a t
sho uldn't be ta k in g up you r day.
 Learn to c om m u nic a te clearly. W h e th e r you are
tra in in g a new em ployee, in tro d u c in g a new menu item ,
or o rd e rin g a piece o f eq uipm en t, cle ar com m u nica tion
is im p o rta n t. Be sp e cific, use th e m o st concise language
you can, and be as b r ie f as po ssib le w ith o u t leaving o u t
necessary in fo rm a tio n . If ta s k s are handled by a num ber
o f people, be sure to w rite o u t each ta s k fro m th e f ir s t
step to th e last. Encourage people to ask qu e stio n s if
the y d o n 't u n de rsta nd you. If you need help learning
com m u nica tion skills, con sid er ta k in g a w o rksho p or
sem inar to stre n g th e n any w eak areas.
Take s tep s to c re a te an o rd e rly w o rk environm ent. If
you have to dig th ro u g h fiv e shelves to fin d th e lid to the
storage c o n ta in e r you ju s t p u t th e s to c k in, you haven't
been using your tim e w isely. Planning w o rk areas ca re ­
fu lly , th in k in g ab ou t all th e to o ls , in g re d ie n ts, and e q u ip ­
m ent you need f o r p re p a ra tio n and th ro u g h o u t service,
and g ro up ing like a c tiv itie s to g e th e r are all tech niq ue s
th a t can help you organize you r w o rk b e tte r. Poor place­
m ent o f large and sm all to o ls is a g re a t tim e w aster. Use
planning your career path
W hether you are seeking an extern po sitio n or planning
your career upon graduation, understanding the various
areas w ith in the h o s p ita lity in d u stry is im p o rta n t when
laying the fo u n d a tio n fo r your career path. S e ttin g both
sh o rt- and lo ng -te rm goals w ill help you to realize the ca­
reer th a t you are seeking. Knowing yo u rse lf and recogniz­
ing your stre n g th s and weaknesses fa c to r in to th is equa­
tio n as well. As a s ta rt, here are some general questions to
ask y o u rse lf as you begin to th in k about your career:
» W hat type of environm ent (corporate/business,
restaurant group/com pany, chain restaurant, inde­
pendent restaurant, fine/u p scale/casu al dining) do
you see yourself in?
» Do you p refe r small or large volume?
» Do you p refe r fro n t of the house or back of the
house?
career opportunities for culinary professionals
C ulinary p ro fe s s io n a ls are needed n o t ju s t in h o te l d in ­
ing fa c ilitie s and tra d itio n a l re s ta u ra n ts b u t in a v a rie ty
o f s e ttin g s — pu blic and p riva te , c o n su m e r-o rie n te d
and in s titu tio n a l. An increased em phasis on n u tritio n ,
Chapter 1 » IN T R O D U C T I O N TO THE PR O F E S S IO N
adequate, e a sy-to -acce ss storag e space f o r common
ite m s such as w hips, spoons, ladles, and tongs. E le ctrical
o u tle ts f o r sm all e q u ip m e n t ou gh t to be w ith in reach o f
everyone. W hile you m ay be fo rc e d to w o rk w ith in the
lim its o f you r e x is tin g flo o r plan, be on the lo o ko u t fo r
p ro d u c ts o r sto ra g e s tra te g ie s th a t can tu rn a bad a r­
ran ge m ent in to one th a t w o rks s m o o th ly and evenly.
Purchase, replace, and m a in ta in all necessary tools.
A w e ll-e q u ip p e d kitch e n w ill have enough o f all the to o ls
necessary to p re p a re every ite m on th e menu. If you are
m issing s o m e th in g as basic as a sieve, your cream soups
w on’t have th e rig h t con sisten cy. If you have a menu w ith
several sauteed a p p e tize rs, entrees, and side dishes,
are you and you r line cooks w a itin g around w h ile the p o t
w asher scram bles to g e t you re sto cke d w ith saute pans?
If you can’t purchase new eq uipm ent, then th in k about
re s tru c tu rin g th e menu to even o u t the w o rkloa d. If you
can't rem ove a menu item , the n in ve st in th e to o ls you
need to p re ve n t a slow dow n du rin g service.
» Are you seeking a management training program, or
a direct hire position?
» W hat is im portant to you— the cuisine, management
style, geographic location, number o f hours required
per day/w eek, or working fo r a prominent chef?
» Are medical benefits, stock options, vacation time,
predictable schedule, or seasonal employment op­
tions prerequisites fo r your choice?
» Are additional skill sets or fu rth e r education re­
quired to reach your long-term goals?
Rank th e answ ers to the se qu e stio n s in o rd e r o f im p o r­
tance to you and keep th e m in m ind as you se t goals fo r
you r career.
s o p h is tic a tio n , and fin a n c ia l and q u a lity c o n tro l means
th a t all s e ttin g s , fro m th e w h ite -ta b le c lo th re s ta u ra n t
to th e fa s t-fo o d o u tle t, o ffe r in te re s tin g challenges.
 Some exam ples o f care er pa ths th a t are available
to you are lis te d below, along w ith some general pros
and cons. As you con sid er a care er path, keep g ro w th in
m in d— you m ay n o t be q u a lifie d f o r an exe cutive p o si­
tio n im m e d ia te ly a fte r g ra du ation , b u t th o u g h tfu l pla n ­
ning can advance you r care er quickly.
R esorts, hotels, and spas o fte n have a num ber o f
d iffe re n t dinin g fa c ilitie s , includ in g fin e -d in in g re s ta u ­
rants, room service, c o ffe e shops, and banq ue t room s.
The kitch e n s are large, and th e re w ill o fte n be separate
butchering, catering, and p a stry kitchens on the prem ises.
These e sta b lish m e n ts o fte n o ffe r a v a rie ty o f f r o n t- and
b a c k -o f-th e -h o u s e op tion s, upw ard and geographic m o­
b ility , and a com prehensive b e n e fits package, and many
have m anagem ent tra in in g program s.
Independent restaurants , such as b istro s, w h ite -
ta b le c lo th e sta blishm en ts, and fa m ily -s ty le re s ta u ­
rants, fe a tu re a fu ll menu, and the pa tro ns are served
by tra in e d w a it s ta ff. When seeking e m p lo ym e nt in th is
realm, select a re s ta u ra n t based on cuisine type , chef,
and size. They are less like ly to o ffe r b e n e fits or a set
schedule.
Bakeries and cafes o ffe r a sm a lle r e n viro n m e n t th a t
may specialize in s p e c ific areas (breads, w e dd ing cakes,
etc.). They may be less lik e ly to o ffe r b e n e fits .
R e s ta u ra n t g ro u p s/c o m p a n ie s o fte n have m u ltip le
concepts w ith in the group, and o fte n o ffe r the p o s s ib ility
o f a m anagem ent tra in in g program a n d /o r geographic
m o b ility . M o s t have p a rtia l to fu ll b e n e fits packages.
P riv a te clubs g e ne rally pro vid e som e s o rt o f fo o d -
service. This may be as sim ple as a sm all g rill fe a tu rin g
sandw iches, o r it may be a co m p le te din in g room . The
d iffe re n c e is th a t th e gu ests are paying m em bers, and
th e fo o d costs are ty p ic a lly fig u re d d iffe re n tly than the y
w ould be f o r a pu blic re sta u ra n t.
Country club p o s itio n s m ay be seasonal, depending
on lo catio n. C o un try clubs can range fro m very upscale
fa c ilitie s to local g o lf clubs. M any have s e t hours and
provide b e n e fits. You m ust be ve ry w illin g to accom m o­
date the m e m b e rs'w a n ts.
W ith con tra ct foodservice companies, many jobs
would be considered in s titu tio n a l cate ring (used in
schools, hospitals, colleges, airlines, and corre ction al
in stitu tio n s). This o fte n demands a single menu and a
cafe te ria where th e guests serve them selves, choosing
fro m the o ffe re d foods. Menu selections are based on the
needs o f the in stitu tio n 's guests, the o p era ting budget,
and the ad m inistration's expectations. These settin gs
ty p ic a lly o ffe r many fro n t- and back-of-the-house op ­
tio n s as w ell as a com prehensive b e n e fits package, and
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
generally adhere to a M onday through Friday schedule.
Many corp ora tions operate executive dining rooms. The
degree o f s im p lic ity or elegance demanded in a p a rticular
co rp ora tion determ ines w h at typ e o f foo d is o ffe re d , how
it is prepared, and w h at s tyle o f service is appropriate.
Ca te rin g companies o ffe r a w ide range o f p o s s ib ili­
tie s, fro m upscale event planning com panies to sm aller,
m ore casual menus. They p ro vid e a p a rtic u la r service,
o fte n ta ilo re d to m ee t th e w ishes o f a special c lie n t fo r
a p a rtic u la r event, such as a wedding, a c o c k ta il re ce p ­
tio n , or a g a lle ry opening. C a te rers may pro vid e o n -site
services (the c lie n t com es to th e cate re r's prem ises),
o ff- s ite services (the c a te re r com es to th e c lie n t’s
prem ises), o r bo th. The v a rie ty o f o p tio n s depends on
th e size o f th e com pany and w h e th e r the y service on- or
o ff-p re m is e s events.
Home meal re p la c e m e n t (ca rryo u t) fo o d s e rv ic e
is g ro w in g in im p o rta n ce as m ore busy couples, single
pro fe ssio n a ls, and fa m ilie s t r y to enjoy meals at home
w ith o u t having to spend tim e p re p a rin g them . These
o p e ra tio n s prepare entrees, salads, side dishes, and
d e sse rts th a t are packaged to be take n home. M any su­
p e rm a rk e ts now o ffe r th is service to th e ir custom ers.
In sales, com pany size ranges fro m larger, broad-
sp e ctru m d is trib u to rs to sm aller, specialized boutiques.
M any salespeople w o rk on com m ission, so wages can
flu c tu a te fro m pay pe rio d to pay period.
A D V A N CE D O P P O R T U N I T I E S
The fo llo w in g o p tio n s m ay re q u ire e ith e r fu rth e r edu­
catio n, s ig n ific a n t in d u s try experience, o r o th e r sk ill
sets. M o s t o f the se a lte rn a tiv e o p tio n s pro vid e a m ore
"n o rm a l” o r "s e t” w o rk schedule w ith a com prehensive
b e n e fits package.
TEACHING— On a high school/vocational level, a
bachelor’s degree plus state certification is required.
At the college/university level, a minimum of a bach­
elor’s degree in addition to significant industry ex­
perience (ACF certification is a plus) is required for
hands-on courses. A minimum of a m aster’s degree in
addition to industry experience is required to teach
liberal arts or business courses.
C O M M U N IC A T IO N S /M E D IA /M A R K E T IN G /W R IT ­
IN G /FO O D S T Y LIN G — M ost of these options will
require other education (a degree in marketing,
communications, or journalism ) in addition to ex­
perience within the industry. Much of this work is
freelance. An entrepreneurial mind is an asset.
 RESEARCH AND D E V E L O P M E N T -C o v e rs a wide
range of em ploym ent opportunities th at may re ­
quire other degrees, such as food science, chemis­
try, nutrition, or engineering, combined with indus­
try experience.
A REAL C H A L L E N G E
ENTREPRENEUR— This is probably the most d if­
ficu lt and most rewarding path, as you take all the
credit in good tim es and su ffer all the losses in hard
tim es. A strong business mind and extensive plan­
ning are required to be successful. Many businesses
do not turn a p ro fit fo r several years, so be ready to
think long-term.
THE K I TCHEN B RI G A D E S Y S T E M
The brigade system was instituted by Escoffier to
streamline and simplify work in hotel kitchens. It served
to eliminate the chaos and duplication of e ffo rt that
could result when workers did not have clear-cut re­
sponsibilities. Under this system, each position has a
station and defined responsibilities, outlined below. In
smaller operations, the classic system is generally ab­
breviated and responsibilities are organized so as to
make the best use of workspace and talents. A short­
age of skilled personnel has also made modifications in
the brigade system necessary. The introduction of new
equipment has helped to alleviate some of the problems
associated with smaller kitchen staffs.
The chef is responsible fo r all kitchen operations,
including ordering, supervision of all stations, and de­
velopment of menu items. He or she also may be known
as the c h e f d e cuisine or executive chef. The sous c h e f
is second in command, answers to the chef, may be re­
sponsible fo r scheduling, fills in for the chef, and assists
the station chefs (or line cooks) as necessary. Small
operations may not have a sous chef. The range of posi­
tions in a classic brigade also include the following:
The SAUTE CHEF (saucier) is responsible fo r all
sauteed item s and th eir sauces. This position is
o ften considered the most demanding, responsible,
and glamorous on the line.
The FISH CHEF (poissonier) is responsible fo r fish
item s and th eir sauces, o ften including fish butch­
ering. This position is sometim es combined with the
saucier position.
ch a p te r 1 » IN T R O D U C T I O N TO THE P R O F ES SIO N
The ROAST CHEF (rotisseur) is responsible fo r all
roasted foods and related jus or other sauces.
The GRILL CHEF (grillardin) is responsible fo r all
grilled foods. This position may be combined with
th a t of rotisseur.
The FRY CHEF (friturier) is responsible fo r all fried
foods. This position may be combined with the
rotisseur position.
The VEGETABLE CHEF (entre metier) is responsible
fo r hot appetizers and frequ en tly has responsibil­
ity fo r soups, vegetables, and pastas and other
starches. (In a full tradition al brigade system, soups
are prepared by the soup station or potager, and
vegetables by the legumier.) This station may also
be responsible fo r egg dishes.
The RO UNDSM AN (tournant) or swing cook works
as needed throughout the kitchen.
The COLD-FOODS CHEF (garde manger), also
known as the PANTRY CHEF, is responsible for
preparation of cold foods including salads, cold
appetizers, pates, and the like. This is considered a
separate category of kitchen work.
The BUTCHER (boucher) is responsible fo r butch­
ering meats, poultry, and occasionally fish. The
boucher may also be responsible fo r breading meat
and fish items.
The PASTRY CHEF (patissier) is responsible for
baked items, pastries, and desserts. The pastry
chef freq u en tly supervises a separate kitchen area
or a separate shop in larger operations. This posi­
tion may be fu rth e r broken down into the following
areas of specialization:
CONFISEUR (prepares candies and petits fours),
BOULANGER (prepares unsweetened doughs, as
fo r breads and rolls),
GLACIER (prepares frozen and cold desserts), and
DECORATEUR (prepares showpieces and special
cakes).
The EXPEDITER or ANNOUNCER (aboyeur) accepts
orders from the dining room and relays them to
the various station chefs. This individual is the last
person to see the plate before it leaves the kitchen.
In some operations, this may be eith er the chef or
sous chef.
 The CO M M UN ARD prepares the meal served to OTHER O P P O R T U N I T I E S
s ta ff at some point during the sh ift (also called the
In a d d itio n to th e kitch e n and dinin g room po sitio n s, a
fam ily meal).
g ro w in g num ber o f less tra d itio n a l o p p o rtu n itie s exist,
The CO M M IS or apprentice works under a station many o f which do n o t involve th e actu al p ro d u c tio n or
chef to learn how the station operates and its service o f foo ds.
responsibilities.
FOOD AND BEVERAGE MANAGERS oversee all food
and beverage outlets in hotels and other large estab ­
THE D I NI NG ROOM B R I G A D E S Y S T E M
lishments.
The dining room , or fro n t-o f-th e -h o u s e , p o s itio n s also
CONSULTANTS and DESIGN SPECIALISTS will work
have an e sta b lish e d line o f a u th o rity .
with restaurant owners, often before the restaurant
The MATTRE D'HOTEL, known in Am erican service is even open, to assist in developing a menu, designing
as the dining room manager, is the person who holds the overall layout and ambience of the dining room, and
the most responsibility fo r the fro n t-o f-th e-h o u se establishing work patterns for the kitchen.
operation. The maTtre d’hotel trains all service
W ELL-INFO RM ED SALESPEOPLE help chefs de­
personnel, oversees wine selection, works with the
term ine how best to m eet th eir needs fo r food and
chef to determ ine the menu, and organizes seating
produce, introduce them to new products, and dem ­
throughout service.
onstrate the proper use of new equipment.
The W INE STEWARD (chefde vin or sommelier) is
TEACHERS are essential to the g rea t number of
responsible for all aspects of restaurant wine service,
cooking schools nationwide. M ost of these teachers
including purchasing wines, preparing a wine list,
are chefs who are sharing the b en efit of th eir experi­
assisting guests in wine selection, and serving wine
ence with students.
properly. The wine steward may also be responsible
for the service of liquors, beers, and other beverages. FOOD WRITERS and CRITICS discuss food trends,
If there is no wine steward, these responsibilities are restaurants, and chefs. It will always mean more, of
generally assumed by the maTtre d’hotel. course, if the w riter is well versed in the culinary arts.
Some prominent members of the food media, such
The HEAD WAITER (chefde salle) is generally in
as James Beard, Craig Claiborne, and Julia Child, have
charge of the service fo r an entire dining room. Very
been influential teachers and have w ritten landmark
often this position is combined with the position of
cookbooks in addition to contributing to newspapers
either captain or maTtre d’hotel.
and magazines and appearing on television.
The CAPTAIN (chef d'etage) deals most directly
FOOD STYLISTS and PHOTOGRAPHERS work with
with the guests once they are seated. The captain
a variety of publications, including magazines, books,
explains the menu, answers any questions, and takes
catalogs, and promotional and advertising pieces.
the order. The captain generally does any tableside
food preparation. If th ere is no captain, these re ­ RESEARCH-AND-DEVELOPMENT KITCHENS employ
sponsibilities fall to the fro n t waiter. a great many culinary professionals. These may be
run by food manufacturers who are developing new
The FRONT W AITER (chefde rang) ensures th at the
products or food lines, or by advisory boards hoping to
table is properly set fo r each course, th at the food is
promote their products. Test kitchens are also run by a
properly delivered to the table, and th at the needs of
variety of both trade and consumer publications.
the guests are promptly and courteously met.
Challenges aside, th e fo o d s e rv ic e in d u s try is re w a rd ­
The BACK W AITER or BUSBOY (dem i-c hefde rang
ing and spontaneous. It req uire s stam ina, drive, and
or commis de rang) is generally the firs t position
c re a tiv e in flue nce. Those who have m ade the g re a te s t
assigned to new dining room workers. This person
im p ressio n know th a t v irtu e s such as open com m unica­
clears plates between courses, fills w ater glasses
tio n , e ffic ie n t org an izatio n, p ro p e r m anagem ent, innova­
and bread baskets, and assists the fro n t w aiter a n d /
tiv e m arke ting , and th o ro u g h a cco un ting are necessary to
or captain as needed.
prosper. In due tim e , your know ledge and experience w ill
gain w o rth y re co g n itio n .

THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
the changing industry
T Y P E S OF A G RI CU L T UR E
Today chefs are more aware of the systems in place for
growing and producing the food we eat. It is im portant
to be educated not only to answer questions th a t may
arise from customers and diners, but also to be able to
make educated choices fo r ourselves.
Agriculture is a system involving cultivating the soil,
producing crops, and raising livestock. There are d iffe r­
ent ways in which a farm er can approach this system; a
few options follow:
conventional agriculture
An industrialized agricultural system characterized by
» mechanization
» monocultures (less biodiversity)
» synthetic inputs such as chemical fe rtilize rs and
pesticides
» maximizing productivity and p ro fita b ility
organic agriculture
Agriculture involving
» renewable resources and biological cycles, such as
composting
» no genetically m odified organisms
» no synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or fe rtilize rs
» no synthetic feeds, growth hormones, or antibiotics
» heightened compassion fo r animal w elfare
biodynamic agriculture
Beyond organic, biodynamic agriculture considers the:
» dynamic, metaphysical, and spiritual aspects of the
farm
» balance between physical and nonphysical realms
» cosmic events, such as planting according to the
phases of the moon
The food industry is intrinsically woven into the fab ­
ric o f culture. The industry and every profession within
it reflect cultural and societal changes, some superficial
while others are foundational. These reflections can be
seen in almost every aspect of the industry, such as how
food is prepared, w hat kinds and types of food are eaten
more readily, and menu and recipe development.
ch a p te r 1 » IN T R O D U C T I O N TO THE P R O F ES SIO N
SU STAIN ABILITY
One current focus is on sustainability. In the world of
food, "sustainability" refers to healthy ways of raising,
growing, and harvesting food and ensuring th at the land
can support both the grower and the crop into the future.
It is not simply healthy fo r consumers, but for plants, ani­
mals, and the environment as well. Sustainable farming
does not harm the environment through the use of harm­
ful pesticides or genetically modified organisms (GMOs),
or through overfarming. Sustainable farms also take
care of their workers and are humane toward animals;
sustainable agriculture respects the farmers by paying
them a fair wage. Sustainability is meant to support and
improve the community, especially the rural communities
where farms are based.
Consumers, chefs, and restaurateurs are all becom­
ing increasingly aware of the positive effe cts of sustain­
ability and how to live a sustainable lifestyle. A restau­
rant can support sustainability in a number of ways:
1. BUY LOCALLY. This allows the chef to know the qual­
ity and conditions under which the food they are using
is raised, grown, or harvested. Buying locally increases
awareness of seasonality, and supports the local
economy— items that have traveled far have often
lost quality and freshness.This concept also appeals
to customers who are becoming more aware of the
importance of sustainability and use of local products.
2. USE HEIRLOOM PRODUCTS. Heirloom products are
d ifferen t from most available commercially. An "heir­
loom plant” is defined as any garden plant that has
been passed down within a food family. Some heir­
loom seeds are from plants 50 to 100 years old (mak­
ing them entirely free of GMOs), and have a unique
genetic composition compared with their commercial
counterparts. They may provide new textures, colors,
and flavors th at chefs can incorporate into any menu.
Heirloom products are
» open-pollinated, yielding like offspring
» a distinct variety of plant
» generally not comm ercially grown
» a product of tradition al methods
» usually grown on a small scale
» o ften tied to a particular region
» o ften has been in use fo r 40 to 50 years or more
3. BUILD A SUSTAINABLE RESTAURANT. Chefs and meals. By ta k in g a look a t som e o f th e w o rld ’s m ajor re ­
restaurateurs can use the concepts of sustainability ligions, it is easy to see th e ir in flue nce on cuisine. E dicts
in other ways in the restaurant— going far beyond fa v o rin g or p ro h ib itin g ce rta in foo ds, as w e ll as a calen­
simply the food used on the menu. Using solar or wind dar o f fe a s tin g , fa s tin g , and ce le b ra tin g ritu a ls, are o f ­
power, for example, decreases energy costs and the te n w idesp rea d enough in an area to co lo r the way th a t a
use of fossil fuels. The chef can implement a recycling cuisine evolves and w h a t is w id e ly held to be au then tic.
program that includes not only glass, plastic, or paper For exam ple, w ith its p ro s c rip tio n against e a tin g m eat
but also waste oil that could be converted into biofuel. f o r ce rta in castes, H induism has c o n trib u te d to a cuisine
Check for local and national resources to learn about w ith a s tro n g tra d itio n o f m ea tless dishes.
the many ways to make a restaurant more sustain­ There has p ro b a b ly never been a tim e when th e m i­
able. g ra tio n o f fo o d s fro m one p a rt o f the w o rld to an othe r
has n o t been a fa c to r in a developing cuisine. W hile
G L O B A L I Z A T I O N OF F LA VOR S the se exchanges are m ore rapid and fre q u e n t in m odern
tim e s, th e y have always been ap pa rent. S om etim es
A n o th e r ever-changing asp ect o f th e fo o d in d u s try since
the se exchanges had a g re a t deal to do w ith th e con­
the beginning o f tim e is th e glo b a l sharing and blending
q u e st o f lands by an invading fo rce . O th er tim e s, tra d e
o f cuisines.
and its asso cia te d a c tiv itie s played a m ajor role.
Cuisine, like any cu ltu ra l ele m e n t o f s o cie ty, has
W h e th e r benign o r aggressive, a system o f culina ry
geographic, religiou s, and m any o th e r in flue nces th a t
exchange is p a rt o f any cuisine's s to ry . New in g re d ie n ts
shape its de velopm ent. C onversely, a cu isin e — once
fin d th e ir w ay in to tra d itio n a l dishes. O ver tim e , the
de velope d— e xe rts in flue nce on th e c u ltu re o f its land
new in g re d ie n t becom es so fir m ly entrenched, we may
o f origin as w ell as on any o u tsid e cu ltu re s w ith which it
even fo rg e t th a t th e dish w ould n o t be recognized as
may come in c o n ta ct. E lem ents o f th e cuisine may shape
a u th e n tic. A cle ar exam ple o f th is can be seen w ith the
events o r ce le b ra tio n s th a t becom e cu ltu ra l norm s, or
a d o p tio n o f m any in g re d ie n ts th a t w ere na tive to the
may be a ssim ila te d in to an o th e r cu ltu re , becom e in tr in ­
A m ericas, such as th e to m a to . Today, who could im agine
sic to it, and the n w o rk to shape or drive a g ric u ltu ra l de­
Ita lia n cuisine w ith o u t th e to m a to ? It is so em bedded in
mands and pra ctices.
th e c o u n try ’s cuisine th a t anyone could easily m istake
In th is co n te xt, any meal is m ore than m ere s u s te ­
Ita ly as its land o f origin.
nance. For to d a y ’s ch e f o r s tu d e n t o f th e culina ry arts,
Techniques are also a w indow in to the cooking o f a
th is in fo rm a tio n can be o f value; id e n tify in g basic fo o d s
spe cific cuisine. As you m ight expect, a technique can have
and p re p a ra tio n tech niq ue s th a t tra n s la te across cui­
a d iffe re n t name as you tra ve l fro m one region to another.
sines, cultu res, and c o n tin e n ts is an im p o rta n t p a rt o f
C ertain cooking s tyles are popular in a given region o f the
the culina ry p ro fe ssio n . Any cuisine is a re fle c tio n o f
w orld because they are suited to the life s ty le and living
m ore than ju s t a c o lle c tio n o f in g re d ie n ts, coo kin g u te n ­
conditions; oth ers may remain v irtu a lly unknown.
sils, and dishes fro m a geographic lo catio n. These e le ­
The stu d y o f any single cuisine is a m u ltifa c e te d
m ents are u n d o u b te d ly c ritic a l to e sta b lish in g a culinary
un de rta king . C uisines have never developed in a vacuum.
id e n tity . B ut th e y are not, all on th e ir own, a cuisine.
As you probe m ore deeply in to th e h is to ric a l origins
Shared tra d itio n s and b e lie fs also give a cuisine a
o f th e recipe in your hand tod ay, you may fin d in g re d i­
p a rtic u la r id e n tity . A cu ltu ra l cuisine is an im p o rta n t e le ­
ents th a t tra v e le d fro m E ast to W est or fro m th e Old
m ent in de veloping and m a in ta in in g a g ro u p ’s id e n tity .
W orld to th e New W orld in place o f an e a rlie r op tion .
And perhaps m o st re le va n t fro m today's pe rspe ctive,
T ra d itio n a l m etho ds o f cooking a dish may have changed
a system o f governance and tra d e th a t encourages the
w ith th e tim e s o r to m ee t th e special challenges o f
"m igration" o f fo o d s and dishes fro m one place to another
coo kin g f o r large groups o r in a re s ta u ra n t s e ttin g .
s tro n g ly in flue nces cuisine. The presence or absence o f
Know ing th e classic tech niq ue s and cuisine o f a cul­
a sho reline has a tre m e n d o u s im p a ct on a developing
tu re (w h e th e r France, India, o r beyond) is always h e lp fu l
coo kin g s tyle . C lim ate and soil co m p o sitio n , as w e ll as
when you choose to m od ern ize o r change a tra d itio n a l
fa rm in g techniques, also have a s tro n g influence.
recipe. Read cookbooks, v is it re s ta u ra n ts and o th e r
A cuisine also gives us a way to express and e s ta b ­
cou ntrie s, and keep an open m ind in o rd e r to experience
lish custo m s fo r m eals (w h at is eaten, when, and w ith
a w ide v a rie ty o f w o rld cuisines.
whom), fro m sim p le m eals to ce le b ra tio n s and ritu a l

THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
menus and
recipes
Menus are used in the dining room to give both wait s ta ff arid guests
important information about what the establishment offers. Recipes give
detailed instructions to aid kitchen s ta ff in producing tpenu items. More
than that, carefully designed menus and comprehensive recipes can help
Jmi
the professional chef streamline kitchen operatiorwand control costs.

CHAPTER 2
menus
A menu is a p o w e rfu l to o l: It is a m a rk e tin g and m erchan­
dising vehicle. It e sta b lish e s and re in fo rc e s th e to ta l
re s ta u ra n t con cep t fro m th e s ty le o f china and fla tw a re
to s t a f f tra in in g needs. It can a ssist th e ch e f in o rg a ­
nizing th e day's w o rk, o rd e rin g fo o d , red ucing w aste,
and increasing p ro fits . The w ay a menu is developed or
adapted, as w ell as th e w ay menu prices are esta blished ,
are re fle c tio n s o f how w e ll th e o p era tion's con cep t or
business plan has been de fine d. S om e tim es th e menu
evolves as th e business plan is re fin e d . In o th e r scenar­
ios, the con cep t comes f ir s t and th e menu com es later.
In s till oth ers, th e menu may be th e g u id in g p rin cip le
th a t gives a p a rtic u la r stam p to th e way th e re s ta u ra n t
con cep t evolves.
Menus give th e kitch e n s t a f f v ita l in fo rm a tio n
such as whose re s p o n s ib ility it is to prepare th e dish's
com p on ents o r to p la te and garnish it. The p re p a ra tio n
o f c e rta in garnishes, side dishes, sauces, o r m arinades
may be organized so th a t all com p on ents o f a recipe are
p re pa red by th e ch e f o r cook fo r th a t sta tio n , o r it may
be th a t prep cooks pre pa re som e o f the com ponents.
A la c a rte and ba nq ue t menus call fo r c e rta in typ e s
o f advance w o rk to help th e ch e f ad ju st to th e w o rkflo w .
Even if a w ritte n menu is n o t p ro vid ed to th e guest,
some fo rm o f menu lis t in th e p ro fe s s io n a l kitche n is
e sse n tia l to th e kitchen's sm oo th op e ra tio n . C onsult
th e menu, d e te rm in e w hich ite m s you and each s ta ff
m em ber are resp on sible fo r, and the n read the recipes
fo r th o se ite m s c a re fu lly so th a t you understand all the
ta sks th a t m ust be p e rfo rm e d in advance o f service, as
w e ll as a t th e tim e o f p la tin g and serving the fo o d . In th is
way, service should proceed w ith o u t d iffic u lty .

recipes
A recipe is a w r itte n reco rd o f th e in g re d ie n ts and ME A S UR I NG INGREDI ENTS ACCURATELY
p re p a ra tio n ste p s needed to make a p a rtic u la r dish. The
A ccura te m easurem ents are crucial to recipes. In o rd e r
fo rm a recipe ta ke s depends on who w ill u ltim a te ly use
to keep co sts in line and ensure con sisten cy o f qu al­
th e recipe and th e m edium in w hich th e recipe w ill be
ity and q u a n tity , in g re d ie n ts and p o rtio n sizes m ust be
presented.
m easured c o rre c tly each tim e a recipe is made.
B efo re s ta rtin g to cook fro m any recipe, the f ir s t
In g re d ie n ts are purchased and used a c c o rd in g to
ste p is always to read throu gh th e recipe in its e n tire ty
one o f th re e m easuring conventions: count, volum e, or
to gain an un de rsta nd ing o f e xa ctly w h a t is required.
w e igh t. They m ay be purchased acco rding to one system
This ste p w ill a le rt you to any p o te n tia l surp rises the
and m easured f o r use in a recipe a c c o rd in g to another.
recipe m ig h t contain, such as re q u irin g an unusual piece
C ount is a m ea sure m ent o f w hole ite m s as one
o f eq uipm en t or an ove rnight coo lin g period. This is also
w ould purchase them . The te rm s each, bunch, and dozen
the p o in t at which you m ust decide if any m o d ific a tio n s
all in d ica te u n its o f cou nt measure. If the in dividu al ite m
to the recipe are in order. Perhaps th e recipe makes only
has been processed, graded, o r packaged according to
te n p o rtio n s and you w a n t to make f if t y , o r vice versa.
e sta b lish e d stan dard s, co u n t can be a useful, accurate
You w ill have to co n ve rt th e recipe (see Using a Recipe
w ay to m easure in g re d ie n ts. It is less accurate fo r in g re ­
C onversion F actor (RCF) to C onvert Recipe Y ields, page
d ie n ts re q u irin g som e advance p re p a ra tio n or w ith o u t
16). W hile increasing o r d ecreasing the yield, you may
any e sta b lish e d stan dard s f o r purchasing. G arlic cloves
discover th a t you need to make e q uipm en t m o d ific a tio n s
illu s tra te th e p o in t w ell. If a recipe calls fo r tw o ga rlic
as w ell to accom m odate th e new volum e o f foo d. Or you
cloves, th e in te n s ity o f g a rlic in th e dish w ill change
m ig h t decide th a t you w a n t to o m it, add, or s u b s titu te an
depending upon w h e th e r th e cloves you use are large or
in gre die nt. A ll o f these decisions should be m ade b e fore
sm all.
any in g re d ie n t p re p a ra tio n o r cooking begins.
Volume is a m easurem ent o f the space occupied by a
Once you have read th ro u g h and evaluated or m o d i­
solid, liquid, o r gas. The te rm s teaspoon (tsp), tablespoon
fie d th e recipe, it is tim e to g e t your m ise en place t o ­
(tbsp), flu id ounce (fl oz), cup, p in t (pt), q u a rt (qt), gallon
gether. In many recipes, th e in g re d ie n t lis t w ill in d ica te
(gal), m illilite r (mL), and lite r (L) all indicate units o f volume
how the in g re d ie n t should be p re pa red (e.g., p a rb o ilin g
measure. Graduated containers (measuring cups) and
or c u ttin g in to pieces o f a ce rta in size) b e fo re th e actual
cooking o r assem bling begins.

THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
utensils for which the volume is known (such as a 2-ounce
ladle or a teaspoon) are used to measure volume.
Volume measurements are best suited to liquids,
though they are also used for solids, especially spices,
in small amounts. Tools used fo r measuring volume are
not always as precise as necessary, especially if you
must often increase or decrease a recipe. Volume mea­
suring tools don't conform to any regulated standards.
Therefore, the amount of an ingredient measured with
one set of spoons, cups, or pitchers could be quite d if­
feren t from the amount measured with another set.
W eight is a measurement of the mass or heaviness
of a solid, liquid, or gas. The term s ounce (oz), pound (lb),
g ra m (g), and k ilo g ra m (kg) all indicate units of weight
measure. Scales are used to measure weight, and they
must m eet specific standards fo r accuracy. In profes­
sional kitchens, weight is usually the preferred type of
measurement because it is easier to attain accuracy
with weight than it is with volume.
ST A ND A RD I Z E D RECIPES
The recipes used in each professional kitchen are known
as s ta n d a rd iz e d recipes. Unlike published recipes,
standardized recipes are tailored to suit the needs of an
individual kitchen. Preparing w ell-w ritten and accurate
standardized recipes is a big part of the professional
chef's work in all foodservice settings, as they include
much more than just ingredient names and preparation
steps. Standardized recipes establish to tal yields, por­
tion sizes, holding and serving practices, and plating
information, and they set standards fo r cooking te m ­
peratures and times. These standards help to ensure
consistent quality and quantity, perm it chefs to monitor
the efficiency of their work, and reduce costs by elim i­
nating waste.
They also allow the w ait s ta ff to become fam iliar
with a dish so they can answer guests' questions accu­
rately and honestly. For example, the type of oil used in
a dish may m a tter very much to a guest if it is an oil to
which he or she has an allergy.
Standardized recipes can be recorded by hand, or
electronically using a recipe management program or
other computerized database. They should be recorded
in a consistent, clear, easy-to-follow form and should be
readily accessible to all s ta ff members. Instruct kitchen
s ta ff to follow standardized recipes to the letter unless
instructed otherwise, and encourage service s ta ff to
re fer to standardized recipes when a question arises
about ingredients or preparation methods.
As you prepare a standardized recipe, be as precise
and consistent as you can. Include as many of the follow ­
ing elements as possible:
» Name/title of the food item or dish
» Yield inform ation, expressed as one or more of the
following: to ta l weight, to ta l volume, to ta l number
of portions
» Portion inform ation fo r each serving, expressed as
one or more of the following: a specific number of
item s (count), volume, weight
» Ingredient names, expressed in appropriate detail,
specifying variety or brand as necessary
» Ingredient measures, expressed as one or more of
the following: count, volume, weight
» Ingredient preparation instructions, sometimes
included in the ingredient name, sometim es ex­
pressed in the method its e lf as a step
» Equipment inform ation fo r preparation, cooking,
storing, holding, and serving
» Preparation steps detailing mise en place, cooking
methods, and tem peratures fo r safe food handling
(see Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points
[HACCP], page 36)
» Service inform ation, describing how to finish and
plate a dish, add side dishes, sauces, and garnishes,
if any, and listing the proper service tem peratures
» Holding and reheating inform ation, describing pro­
cedures, equipment, tim es, and tem peratures for
safe storage
» Critical control points (CCPs) at appropriate stages
in the recipe to indicate tem peratures and tim es
fo r safe food-handling procedures during storage,
preparation, holding, and reheating
c h a p te r 2 » M E N U S A N D RECIPES
recipe calculations
O fte n you w ill need to m o d ify a recipe. S om e tim es a re c­
ipe m ust be increased or decreased. You may be a d a p t­
ing a recipe fro m a n o th e r source in to a stan dard ized
fo rm a t, o r you may be a d ju s tin g a sta n d a rd ize d recipe
f o r a special event such as a banquet or a re ce p tio n . You
may need to co n ve rt fro m volum e m easures to w eight,
o r fro m m e tric m easurem ents to th e U.S. system . You
w ill also need to be able to tra n s la te be tw ee n purchase
u n its and recipe m easurem ents. In som e circum stances,
you may be called upon to increase or decrease th e sug­
g e sted p o rtio n size f o r a recipe. Or you may w a n t to de­
te rm in e how much th e fo o d in a p a rtic u la r recipe costs.
USING A RECIPE CONVERSION FACTOR (RCF)
TO CONVERTRECIPE YIELDS
To ad ju st th e yie ld o f a recipe to make e ith e r m ore
o r less, you need to d e te rm in e th e recipe conversion
fa c to r. Once you know th a t fa c to r, you f ir s t m u ltip ly
all the in g re d ie n t am ounts by it. Then you co n v e rt the
new m easurem ents in to a p p ro p ria te recipe u n its fo r
you r kitche n. This may req uire c o n v e rtin g ite m s lis te d
o rig in a lly as a cou nt in to a w e ig h t o r a volum e, o r ro u n d ­
ing m easurem ents in to reasonable q u a n titie s . In some
cases you w ill have to make a ju d g m e n t call a b o u t tho se
in g re d ie n ts th a t do n o t scale up o r down e xa ctly, such as
spices, salt, and thicke ne rs.
Desired yield _ . .
= Recipe Conversion Factor (RCF)
Origtnal yield
NOTE: The de sire d yie ld and th e o rig in a l yie ld m ust
be expressed in th e same w ay b e fo re you can use the
fo rm u la . If your o rig in a l recipe says it makes fiv e p o r­
tio n s, f o r exam ple, b u t does n o t lis t th e am o un t o f each
p o rtio n , you may need to te s t th e recipe to de te rm in e
w h a t size p o rtio n it a c tu a lly makes if you w ish to change
p o rtio n size as w ell. S im ila rly, if th e o rig in a l recipe lis ts
the yie ld in flu id ounces and you w a n t to make 3 quarts,
you need to co n v e rt q u a rts in to flu id ounces b e fo re you
can d e te rm in e the recipe conversion fa c to r.
The new in g re d ie n t am ounts usually need som e ad­
d itio n a l fin e -tu n in g . You may need to round th e re s u lt or
co n ve rt it to th e m o s t lo gica l u n it o f m easure. For some
in gre die nts, a s tra ig h tfo rw a rd increase o r decrease is
all th a t is needed. For exam ple, to increase a recipe fo r
chicken b re a sts fro m fiv e servings to f if t y , you w ould
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
sim p ly m u ltip ly 5 chicken b re a sts by 10; no fu rth e r
a d ju stm e n ts are necessary. O th e r in g re d ie n ts, such as
thicke ne rs, a ro m atics, seasonings, and leavenings, may
no t m u ltip ly as sim ply, however. If a soup to serve fo u r
req uire s 2 ta b le sp o o n s o f flo u r to make a roux, it is not
ne cessa rily tru e th a t you w ill need 20 tab lesp oo ns (1V4
cups) o f flo u r to th icke n th e same soup when you p re ­
pare it f o r fo rty . The only w ay to be sure is to te s t the
new recipe and ad ju st it u n til you are s a tis fie d w ith the
re s u lt— and th e n be sure to reco rd th e measure!
O th e r co n sid e ra tio n s when c o n ve rtin g recipe yie lds
include th e e q u ip m e n t you have to w o rk w ith , the p ro ­
d u ctio n issues you face, and the s k ill level o f your s ta ff.
R e w rite th e ste p s to s u it your e s ta b lis h m e n t at th is
po in t. It is im p o rta n t to do th is now, so you can uncover
any fu rth e r changes to th e in g re d ie n ts o r m ethods th a t
th e new y ie ld m ig h t fo rce . For instance, a soup to serve
fo u r w ould be made in a sm all po t, b u t a soup f o r fo r ty
req uire s a la rg e r coo kin g vessel. However, using a la rge r
vessel m ig h t re s u lt in a higher ra te o f e va po ration , so
you may fin d th a t you need to cover the soup as it cooks
o r increase th e liquid to o ffs e t th e evaporation.
CONVERTING PORTION SIZES
S om e tim es it w ill happen th a t you also need to m o d ify
the p o rtio n size o f a recipe. For instance, say you have a
soup recipe th a t makes fo u r 8-ounce p o rtio n s, b u t you
need to make enough to have fo r t y 6-ounce p o rtio n s.
To make th e conversion:
Determ ine the to tal original yield and the to tal de­
sired yield of the recipe.
Number of portions x Portion size = Total yield
EXAMPLE:
4 x 8 fl oz = 32 fl oz (to ta l original yield)
40 x 6 fl oz = 2 4 0 fl oz (to ta l desired yield)
2 . Determ ine the recipe conversion factor and modify
the recipe as described above.
EXAMPLE:
^ ° Z = 7.5 (Recipe Conversion Factor)
 Confusion often arises between weight and volume
measures when ounces are the unit of measure. It is im­
portant to remember th at weight is measured in ounces,
but volume is measured in flu id ounces. A standard
volume measuring cup is equal to 8 fluid ounces, but the
contents of the cup may not always weigh 8 ounces. One
cup (8 fluid ounces) of cornflakes weighs only 1 ounce,
but one cup (8 fluid ounces) of peanut butter weighs 9
ounces. W ater is the only substance fo r which it can be
safely assumed th at 1 fluid ounce equals 1 ounce. For
all other ingredients, when the amount is expressed in
ounces, weigh it; when the amount is expressed in fluid
ounces, measure it with an accurate liquid (or volume)
measuring tool.
CONVERTING VOLUME MEASURES
TO WEIGHT
You can convert a volume measure into a weight if you
know how much 1 cup of an ingredient (prepared as
required by the recipe) weighs. This inform ation is avail­
able in a number of charts or ingredient databases. (See
Weights and Measures Equivalents, page 11 66 .) You can
also calculate and record the inform ation yourself as
follows:
1. Prepare the ingredient as directed by the recipe—
s ift flour, chop nuts, mince garlic, grate cheeses,
and so fo rth .
2 . Set the measuring device on the scale and reset
the scale to zero (known as tore).
3 . Fill the measuring device correctly. For liquids,
use graduated measuring cups or pitchers and fill
to the desired level. To be sure th at you have mea­
sured accurately, bend down until the level mark
on the measure is at your eye level. The measuring
utensil must be sitting on a level surface fo r an ac­
curate measurem ent. Use nested measuring tools
fo r dry ingredients measured by volume. O verfill
the measure, then scrape away the excess as you
level o ff the measure.
4 . Return the filled measuring tool to the scale and
record the weight in either grams or ounces on your
standardized recipe.
CONVERTING BETWEEN U.S. AND METRIC
MEASUREMENT SYSTEMS
The m etric system, used throughout most of the world,
is a decimal system, meaning th at it is based on m ulti­
ples o f 10. The gram is the basic unit of weight, the liter
is the basic unit of volume, and the m eter is the basic
unit o f length. Prefixes added to the basic units indicate
larger or smaller units. For instance, a kilogram is 1 0 0 0
grams, a m illiliter is Viooo liter, and a centim eter is Vwo
meter.
The U.S. system, fam iliar to most Americans, uses
ounces and pounds to measure weight, and teaspoons,
tablespoons, fluid ounces, cups, pints, quarts, and gal­
lons to measure volume. Unlike the metric system, the
U.S. system is not based on multiples of a particular
number, so it is not as simple to increase or decrease
quantities. Instead, either the equivalencies of the d if­
feren t units of measure must be memorized or a chart
must be kept handy (see page 1166).
M ost modern measuring equipment is capable of
measuring in both U.S. and metric units. If, however, a
recipe is w ritten in a system of measurement for which
you do not have the proper measuring equipment, you
will need to convert to the other system.
CALCULATING AS-PURCHASED
COST (APC)
M ost food items purchased from suppliers are packed
and priced by wholesale bulk sizes such as by the crate,
case, bag, carton, and so on. Yet in kitchen production,
the packed amount is not always used for the same pur­
pose and may often be broken down and used fo r several
items. Therefore, in order to allocate the proper prices
to each recipe, it is necessary to convert purchase pack
prices to unit prices, which are expressed as price per
pound, each, by the dozen, by the quart, and the like.
If you know the cost of a pack with many units, calcu­
late the cost per unit by dividing the as-purchased cost
of the pack by the number of units in the pack.
APC ADr ..
-------------------------- = APC per unit
Number of units
If you know the unit price of an item, you can d eter­
mine the to tal cost by multiplying the as-purchased cost
(APC) per unit by the number of units.
APC per unit x Number of units = Total APC
ch a p te r 2 » M E N U S A N D RECIPES
CALCULATING THE YI ELD OF FRESH FRUITS
AND VEGETABLES and D et e r m i n i n g Yi eld
Per cent
For m any fo o d item s, trim m in g is re q u ire d b e fo re th e
ite m s are a ctu a lly used. In o rd e r to d e te rm in e an ac­
cura te c o s t f o r the se item s, th e trim loss m u st be taken
in to account. From th is in fo rm a tio n , th e yie ld pe rce n t
w ill be im p o rta n t in d e te rm in in g th e q u a n tity th a t you
need to order.
F irst, reco rd th e as-purchased q u a n tity (APQ)
fro m th e invoice, o r w eigh th e ite m b e fo re trim m in g or
cu ttin g .
EXAMPLE:
APQ = 5 lb ( = 8 0 oz) carrots
Trim th e ite m and c u t as desired, saving trim and ed­
ib le p o rtio n q u a n tity in sep ara te con tain ers. W eigh each
se p a ra te ly and reco rd th e ir w e ig h ts on a co s tin g fo rm :
As-Purchased Q uantity (APQ) - Trim loss = Edible
Portion Q uantity (EPQ)
EXAMPLE:
8 0 oz carrots (APQ) - 8.8 oz carrot trim = 7 1 .2 oz
sliced carrots
N ext, d ivid e the EPQ by th e APQ:
Edible Portion Q uantity _ y ie ld percent
As-Purchased Q uantity
EXAMPLE:
71 .2 oz sliced carrots (EPQ) _ q gg
8 0 oz carrots (APQ)
To convert the decimal to a percent, m ultiply by
100: Yield percent = 8 9 %
NOTE: For m ore in fo rm a tio n on any o f the above
culina ry m ath to p ics, re fe r to M a t h f o r the Profe ssio n al
Kitchen by Laura Dreesen, M ichael N othnagel, and Susan
W ysocki.
TH E C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
CAL CUL ATI NG THE AS - P U RC H AS ED
Q U A N T I T Y (APQ) Using Yield Percent
Because m any recipes assume th e in g re d ie n ts lis te d are
ready to cook, it is necessary to con sid er th e trim loss
when purchasing item s. In th is case, th e edible p o rtio n
q u a n tity m ust be c o n ve rte d to the as-purchased quan­
t it y th a t when trim m e d w ill give the desired edible p o r­
tio n q u a n tity . The yie ld p e rce n t is used as a to o l when
ord erin g.
EPQ
= APQ
Yield percent
Exam ple: A recipe req uire s 20 pounds o f cleaned
shredded cabbage. The yie ld p e rce n t f o r cabbage is 79
pe rcen t. When th e 20 pounds is d ivid e d by 7 9 pe rce n t
(0.79), th e re s u lt equals 2 5 .3 pounds, w hich w ill be the
m inim um am ount to purchase.
G enerally, th e as-purchased q u a n tity o b tain ed by
th is m ethod is rounded up, since the yie ld pe rce n t is
an e stim a te . Some che fs increase th e fig u re by an ad­
d itio n a l 10 p e rce n t to account f o r human e rro r as well.
It should be k e p t in m ind th a t n o t all fo o d s have a loss.
M any processed o r re fin e d fo o d s have a 10 0 pe rce n t
yie ld, such as sugar, flo u r, or d rie d spices. O th er fo o d s
have a yie ld p e rce n t th a t depends on how the y are
served. If, fo r exam ple, the in g re d ie n t is to be served by
th e piece (h a lf a cantaloupe), o r if a recipe calls f o r it by
co u n t (15 stra w b e rrie s), th e yie ld p e rc e n t is n o t co n sid ­
ered; th e c o rre c t num ber o f ite m s m ust be purchased
in o rd e r to cre a te th e c o rre c t num ber o f servings.
However, if you are m aking a f r u it salad and you know
you need 2 ounces o f cubed m elon and 1 ounce o f sliced
s tra w b e rrie s per serving, you m ust con sid er th e yield
p e rce n t when ord erin g.
CAL CUL ATI NG EDIBLE PORTION QU AN TI TY
(EPQ) Using Yi eld Percent
S om e tim es it is necessary f o r you to de te rm in e how
m any p o rtio n s can be o b ta in e d fro m raw p ro d u ct. For
exam ple, if you have a case o f fre s h green beans th a t
w eighs 20 pounds and you need to know how many
4-ounce servings are in th e case, w h a t you need to do
f ir s t is d e te rm in e th e yie ld p e rce n t f o r green beans,
e ith e r by re fe rrin g to a lis t o f yie ld pe rce n t values or
by p e rfo rm in g a yie ld te s t. Once you know th e yield
pe rcen t, you can com p ute th e w e ig h t o f th e green beans
a fte r trim m in g .
 APQ x Yield percent = EPQ EXAMPLE:

4 oz tourneed carrots (EPQ) x S 0 .1 4 1 /o z tourneed

EXAMPLE:
carrots (EPC) = $ 0 ,5 6 4 per serving (to ta l cost)
2 0 lb green beans (APQ) x 0 .8 8 (Yield percent) =
17.6 lb green beans (EPQ)
CAL CUL AT I NG THE VALUE OF
The edib le p o rtio n q u a n tity (EPQ) w ould be 17.6 U SABLE TRI M
pounds. The second ste p w ould be to com p ute how many
O ften , som e o f th e trim m in g s fro m a fo o d may be
4-ounce servings th e re are in 17.6 pounds. If necessary,
used to pre pa re o th e r fo o d s. For exam ple, i f you have
c o n ve rt th e p o rtio n size (here, 4 ounces) to th e same
to u rn e e d a c a rro t, ra th e r than c u ttin g it in to dice or
u n it o f m easure as th e edib le p o rtio n q u a n tity (here,
rounds, you can use th e trim to prepare a soup, puree, or
1 pound). There are 16 ounces in 1 pound; 1 p o rtio n is
o th e r dish. U sing th e in fo rm a tio n fro m your y ie ld te s t,
equal to V\ (or 0.25) pound.
you can calcula te th e value o f th e trim . F irst, de term in e
EPQ th e use f o r th e trim , the n fin d th e co st per u n it and yield
= Number of servings
Portion size p e rc e n t f o r th a t in g re d ie n t, as if you had to buy it to
pre pa re th e dish. For instance, if you use th e trim fro m
EXAMPLE: c a rro t to u rn e e s to pre pa re a soup, th e fo o d cost fo r
th e c a rro t trim is th e same as f o r a c a rro t th a t has been
17.6 lb green beans (EPQ) .
----------- ® 5 = 70 .4 servings trim m e d and chopped.
0.25 lb serving size
EXAMPLE:
You w ould be able to o b ta in seve nty fu ll servings
fro m th e case o f green beans. You should round down SO.1 0 6 (As-purchased
any p a rtia l num ber o f p o rtio n s since it w ould n o t be cost of carrots per ounce) _ S 0.1 19 (value of
plau sible to serve a p a rtia l p o rtio n to a guest. 0 .8 9 (Yield percent fo r usable carrot trim
chopped carrots) fo r soup per ounce)
CALCULATI NG EDIBLE PORTION COST

As discussed earlier, recipes o fte n assume in g re d ie n ts

are ready to cook, so when it com es to co s tin g a recipe,
the edible p o rtio n co st (EPC) per u n it can be calcula ted
fro m th e as-purchased co s t (APC) pe r unit, as long as
the edible p o rtio n is expressed in th e same u n it o f m ea­
sure as th e c o s t unit.
Some p ro d u c ts produce trim th a t can be used in
a v a rie ty o f ways. For exam ple, a s trip loin produces
trim m in g s th a t can be used in several recipes. The chef
may use som e o f th e trim to prepare a c la rific a tio n th a t
m ig h t o th e rw is e re q u ire ground m eat, and m ore o f the
trim to make a fillin g f o r fa jita s . F inding a d d itio n a l uses

APC f o r trim reduces co sts and helps to e lim in a te w aste.

: EPC
Yield percent

EXAMPLE:

S 0 .1 0 6 /o z carrots (APC)
= S 0 .1 4 1 /o z tourneed
0.7 5 (Yield % fo r carrots (EPC)
tourneed carrots)

EPQ x EPC = Total cost

ch a p te r 2 » M E N U S A N D RECIPES
 using recipes effectively
In th e p ro fe s s io n a l kitche n, a recipe can be used to
im prove e ffic ie n c y and o rg a n iza tio n and to increase
p ro fits . When you know th e a p p ro xim a te yie ld pe rce n t
f o r onions and ca rro ts, you can g e t th e rig h t am o un t fo r
a recipe in a single v is it to th e w a lk-in . If you un derstand
th e d iffe re n c e be tw ee n th e price you paid per pound fo r
a w hole b e e f te n d e rlo in and how much you are a ctu a lly
paying per pound f o r th e trim m e d m eat you serve, you
can be m ore e ffe c tiv e a t reducing loss and decreas­
ing th e o p e ra tio n ’s overall fo o d costs. Learning to read
recipes c a re fu lly and using the m m ore p ro d u c tiv e ly is an
im p o rta n t ste p in de veloping you r p ro fe ssio n a l skills.

the butchers yield test

The purpose of a butcher’s yield test is to find the accu­ GENERAL PROCEDURES
rate costs of fabricated meats, fish, and poultry. This is
Select the item to be tested and record the as-purchased
done to determine the amount of usable meat and trim
weight. (Make sure you use the same scale for the entire
from a particular fabrication and to calculate the value
test.) Fabricate the item to desired specifications. Keep
of all edible cuts, including not only the portion of meat
all parts (bones, fat, usable cuts, usable trim) in separate
served to the guest but also the value of bones used for
tubs or trays, and record all weights.
stock and of trim used for ground meat, pates, soups, or
Use current prices for the meat item as purchased.
other dishes.
Use market values for fat, bones, and usable trim. For
instance, if you save the lean meat to make ground meat,
the value of that part of the trim is the price you would
have to pay to purchase ground meat.

1. Determ ine the As-Purchased Cost (APC).

As-purchased weight x As-purchased price per lb = APC

EXAMPLE:

2 8 lb x S I.3 0 /lb = $ 3 6 .4 0 (APC)

2. Fabricate the meat.

EXAMPLE:

trim m ed # 1 0 3 beef rib roast to # 1 0 9 beef rib (roast-ready)

3. Determ ine the to tal trim weight and to tal trim value.

Fat trim w eight x M arket p per lb = Trim value (fa t)

per lb = Trim value (bones)
per lb = Trim value (trim )
Total trim weight Total trim value

20 TH E C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
 EXAMPLE:

3 lb Fat x SO .lO /lb = $ 0 .3 0

+ 4 lb Bones x SO .30/lb = S I . 20
+ 5 lb Usable trim x S I.3 0 /lb = S6.50
12 lb Total trim w eight = S8.00 Total trim value

4. Determ ine the New Fabricated W eight (NFW).

As-purchased weight - Total trim w eight = NFW

EXAMPLE:

2 8 lb As-purchased w eight - 12 lb Total trim w eight = 16 lb (NFW )

5. Determ ine the New Fabricated Cost (NFC).

APC - Total trim value = NFC

EXAMPLE:

S 36 .40 - S 8.00 = S 28.40 (NFC)

6. Determ ine the New Fabricated Price per Pound (NFPP).

NFC
= NFPP
NFW

EXAMPLE:

^ ^ 5 = S 1 .7 7 /lb (NFPP)
16 lb

7. Determ ine the Cost Factor (CF).

NFPP
= CF
As-purchased price per pound

EXAMPLE:

= ! 36 (CF)
$ 1 .3 0 /lb

8. Determ ine the yield percent.

NFW
— = Yield percent
As-purchased weight

EXAMPLE:

--6— = 0.5 7 = 5 7 % (Yield percent)

281b

ch a p te r 2 » M E N U S A N D RECIPES 21
 9. Determ ine the number of portions of final product from the fabrication.

NFW x 16 oz = Total number of ounces

Total number of ounces , ,

— -— = Number of portions
Portion size (in oz)

EXAMPLE:

How many 12-oz portions can be obtained from 16 lb of trim m ed meat?

16 lb x 16 oz = 2 5 6 oz

= 2 1 .3 3 (21 full portions)

12 oz

10. Determ ine the cost per portion.

NFPP r . f1
------- -- = Cost of 1 oz
16 oz

Cost of 1 oz x Portion size = Cost per portion

EXAMPLE:

W hat is the cost of one 12-oz portion?

—1 .7 7 /l b _ 0 .1 1 0 6 (cost of 1 oz; = 1 1 .0 6 cents/oz)

16 oz

0 .1 1 0 6 x 12 oz = S I . 3 3 (cost per portion)

22 TH E C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
the basics of
nutrition and
food science
Nutrition refers to the study of diet and health. It is through the
comprehension of this study that we as foodservice proJfSsionals can
Jp
accommodate and enrich diners' dietary preferences a#id restrictions.

Meeting the dietary needs of today's lifestyles invol)fes an understanding

that people eat or don’t eat certain foods for diffejgmt reasons. The
concerns of customers have moved beyond just t i p flavor and texture d
of food and now extend to a healthy diet full o f jp t r it io u s high-

quality foods. Mf

yudhacookbook.com
nutrition basics
Beyond o ffe rin g fla v o rfu l o p tio n s, th e fo o d s e rv ic e p ro ­
fe s s io n a l w ill b e n e fit fro m u n d e rsta n d in g how energy
and n u trie n ts w o rk. To begin, energy and n u trie n ts are
used f o r g ro w th , m aintenance, and re p a ir o f our bodies.
Energy, counted in calories, com es fro m carb oh ydrate s,
pro te in , fa t, and alcohol. The f ir s t th re e are considered
p rim a ry n u trie n ts , w h ile alcohol is not. Any fo o d source
th a t has a good sup ply o f n u trie n ts in re la tio n to the
num ber o f calorie s it con tain s is considered n u trie n t
dense.
C A R BO HY DR AT E S
C arbohydrates pro vid e energy f o r m uscle m ovem ent
and red blood cells, and play a role in th e re g u la tio n
o f fa t m etab olism . Com posed o f sm a lle r u n its known
as sim ple ca rb o h yd ra te s and com ple x carb oh ydrate s,
the se are necessary f o r th e body to w o rk e ffic ie n tly and
to f u lf ill its energy needs. S im ple ca rb o h yd ra te s (gener­
ally sugars) are fo u n d in fr u its and ju ices, d a iry pro du cts,
and re fin e d sugars. Com plex ca rb o h yd ra te s (generally
starche s) are fo u n d in pla n t-b a se d fo o d s such as grains,
legum es, and veg etab le s. Foods co n ta in in g com plex
ca rb o h yd ra te s are also usually good sources o f o th e r
im p o rta n t com p on ents o f a h e a lth y d ie t, in clud in g v ita ­
mins and m inerals.
PROTEIN
P ro te in is a n u trie n t e sse n tia l f o r th e g ro w th and m ain­
tenance o f body tissue s, f o r horm one, enzyme, and
a n tib o d y p ro d u ctio n , and f o r th e re g u la tio n o f b o d ily
flu id s . The basic bu ild in g blocks are re fe rre d to as amino
acids. There are nine e sse n tia l am ino acids th a t m ust
be sup plied th ro u g h the d ie t because th e body does not
produce them . A ll p ro te in -ric h fo o d s con tain some or all
o f th e nine.
P ro te in fo o d s are ca te g o rize d as e ith e r c o m p le te
or in co m p le te , depending on th e presence or lack o f
e sse n tia l am ino acids. A co m p le te p ro te in is a fo o d
th a t pro vid es all nine am ino acids in the c o rre c t ra tio to
su p p o rt th e p ro d u c tio n o f o th e r p ro te in s by th e a d u lt
human body. M eat, p o u ltry , and fis h are good sources o f
co m p le te p ro te in s.
Inco m p le te p ro te in s, such as veg etab le s, grains,
legum es, and nuts, do n o t con tain all th e e sse n tia l amino
acids. However, each o f the se fo o d s con tain s some o f
the e sse ntia l am ino acids th a t, when com bined w ith
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
o th e r in co m p le te p ro te in s, can becom e com p le te p ro ­
tein s. W hen fo llo w in g a ve g e ta ria n diet, th e fo llo w in g
co m b in a tio n s o ffe r a sam ple o f n o n-m e at-base d com ­
p le te p ro te in s:
» Grains and legumes
» Lentils and rice
» Pasta and beans
» Tortillas and beans
» Tofu and rice
» Hummus and whole w heat pita
FAT
F at is o fte n a s ig n ific a n t concern o f th o se w a tch in g
w h a t th e y eat. W hile it is tru e th a t excess f a t in th e d ie t
is un healthy because it raises th e ris k o f c oro na ry he art
disease, o b e sity, and c e rta in cancers, f a t is s till an es­
s e n tia l n u trie n t th a t pro vid es energy and fu lfills b o dily
fu n ctio n s.
C u rre n t d ie ta ry advice places em phasis on the typ e
o f fa t as w e ll as th e am ount o f f a t in th e d ie t. M o s t o f
th e da ily in ta ke o f fa t should come fro m m ono- and p o ly ­
u n sa tu ra te d sources. A ltho ug h consum ing m ore than
th e recom m ended lim it o f f a t is o fte n a sso cia te d w ith
w e ig h t gain and o b e sity, excess to ta l calories are the
ro o t o f th a t problem .
C h o le ste ro l is a fa t-re la te d com pound; the tw o
ty p e s are d ie ta ry and serum . D ie ta ry ch o le s te ro l is only
fo u n d in anim al fo o d s. Serum o r blood ch o le s te ro l is
fo u n d in th e b lo o d stre a m and is e sse n tia l to life . It is not
necessary f o r ad u lts to consum e c h o le ste ro l, because
th e human body is capable o f m a n u fa ctu rin g all the cho­
le s te ro l th a t it needs in te rn a lly. Foods high in ch o le ste ro l
te n d to have high am ounts o f fa t. R egardless o f how
many calorie s are consum ed daily, it is recom m ended
th a t ch o le s te ro l in ta ke n o t exceed 3 0 0 m illigram s.
V I T A M I N S AND M I N E R A L S
Needed in sm a lle r q u a n titie s than pro te in , ca rb o h y­
drates, and fa t, vita m in s and m inerals are noncaloric
e sse n tia l n u trie n ts . V ita m in s are c la s s ifie d as e ith e r
w a te r-s o lu b le o r fa t-s o lu b le . W a te r-so lu b le vita m in s
dissolve in w a te r and are easily tra n s p o rte d th ro u g h o u t
the body in the blo o d stre a m . F a t-so lu b le vita m in s are
stored in fa t tissues. Both form s of vitamins, as well
as minerals, are found in many d iffe ren t food sources.
Because no food contains every essential nutrient in the
correct proportions and no single pill or supplement can
compensate fo r a poor diet, eating a well-balanced diet
composed of a variety o f foods is the healthiest way to
m eet normal nutrient requirements. For a listing of vita­
mins and minerals with their functions and food sources,
re fer to page 26.

menu development and nutrition

When the diet offers balanced nutrition, obtaining » M anage the amount of fa t used both as an ingredi­
the necessary amount of energy and nutrients is easy. ent and as part of a preparation or cooking tech­
Although it is impossible to know what a customer nique.
has consumed before entering your establishment, by
» Serve appropriate portions of food.
predicting the combinations of courses th a t your cus­
tomers are likely to order, you can design your menus to » Use salt w ith care and purpose.
ensure they receive delicious, nutritious, well-balanced
» O ffe r a va riety of beverages, both alcoholic and
meals.
nonalcoholic, th a t complem ent the food menu.
As the recommended dietary guidelines continue to
change, one thing remains the same: portion control is
HEALTHY SUBSTITUTIONS
essential to maintaining a healthy weight. Optimum por­
tion size fo r any individual depends primarily on his or By making simple modifications to existing recipes,
her daily caloric requirements based on age, size, build, healthier versions are within reach.
and level of physical activity. Fats, oils, and sweets are
suggested in very lim ited quantities. O ffering a menu ORIGINAL MO DIFIED
rich in grain products, vegetables, and fruits, low in fat, 2 egg whites
le g g
saturated fat, and cholesterol, and moderate in sugars,
Saute in butter Sweat in broth/stock
salt, and sodium will help customers follow a healthy
1 cup mayonnaise V i cup mayonnaise plus V i cup
plan.
nonfat yogurt
Because consumers have grown increasingly con­
scious of the need to make well-balanced meal choices, 1 cup sour cream 1 cup nonfat yogurt plus 1 to 2
the professional chef has been given the opportunity tbsp butterm ilk or lemon juice
to make a difference. Developing healthy, flavorful, and plus 1 tbsp flour per 8 oz yogurt
satisfying menu items is both easy and worthwhile. 1 cup heavy cream 1 cup evaporated skim milk
The following is a set of principles developed for
healthy cooking. The guidelines are meant as a reference Your establishm ent will find it rewarding to o ffe r a
fo r food selection, cooking techniques, and beverage o f­ variety of options. Continually striving to m eet the ex­
ferings. They should be regarded as ways to explore the pectations of those who walk through your door should
possibilities of flavor and healthy cooking. be an ongoing challenge fo r you and your staff. Consult
The Culinary Institute of America's Techniques o f
» Select nutrient-dense ingredients.
H e a lth y Cooking fo r a more thorough discussion of nu­
» Store and prepare all foods with the aim of preserv­ trition, innovative recipes, and specialized techniques.
ing th eir best possible flavor, texture, color, and
overall nutritional value.

» Incorporate a variety of plant-based dishes in all

categories of the menu.

c h a p te r 3 » THE B A S IC S OF N U T R I T I O N A N D FOOD SC IE NCE

VITAMINS AND MINERALS: THEIR FUNCTIONS 6 COMMON SOURCES
W A T E R -S O L U B L E V IT A M IN S
Name: B-complex (thiamin, riboflavin, niacin,
folate, biotin, pantothenic acid, B6, Bn)
Function: Allow for proper release o f energy in
the body
Food Source: Grains; legumes; vegetables; animal
protein (B12 only found in animal foods)
Name: Vitamin C
Function: Increases body’s absorption o f iron;
aids in growth and maintenance of body tissue;
boosts immune system; contains antioxidant
properties
Food Source: Fruits and vegetables (berries,
melons, tomatoes, potatoes, green leafy
vegetables)
F A T -S O L U B L E V IT A M IN S
Name: Vitamin A
Function: Aids in proper vision, bone growth,
reproduction, cell division and differentiation;
regulates immune system; maintains surface
linings
Food Source: Animal protein such as liver and
eggs; the precursor—beta carotene—is found
in orange, deep yellow, and dark green leafy
vegetables
Name: Vitamin D
Function: Aids in proper bone formation
Food Source: Milk; some cereal and breads; fatty
fish; egg yolks
Name: Vitamin E
Function: Protects body from damage by free
radicals; contains antioxidant properties
Food Source: Nuts; seeds; seed oils; avocados;
sweet potatoes; green leafy vegetables
Name: Vitamin K
Function: Aids in proper blood clotting
Food Source: Dark green leafy vegetables such as
spinach, kale, broccoli
TH E C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
M IN E R A L S
Name: Calcium (body’s most abundant mineral)
Function: Used in the development o f bones and
teeth; regulates blood pressure; aids in muscle
contraction, transmission o f nerve impulses, and
clotting o f the blood
Food Source: Dairy products (milk, yogurt);
broccoli; green leafy vegetables
Name: Phosphorus
Function: Plays a key role in energy-releasing
reactions; used in conjunction with calcium for
maintaining bones and teeth
Food Source: Animal protein; nuts; cereals;
legumes
Name: Sodium and potassium (electrolytes)
Function: Aid in the regulation o f bodily
functions; help to maintain the body’s normal
fluid balance; involved in nerve and muscle
functions
Food Source: Sodium is plentiful in many foods;
potassium is found in virtually all fruits and
vegetables
Name: Magnesium
Function: Promotes healthy teeth and bones,
muscle contractions, nerve transmission, and
bowel functions
Food Source: Green vegetables; nuts; legumes;
whole grains
Name: Fluoride
Function: Helps to prevent tooth decay; may help
to prevent osteoporosis
Food Source: Community water; saltwater fish;
shellfish; tea
Name: Iodine
Function: Essential for the normal functioning of
the thyroid gland; helps to regulate metabolism,
cellular oxidation, and growth
Food Source: Table salt; cod; grains
Name: Iron
Function: Helps to carry oxygen from the lungs to
cells; involved in cellular energy metabolism
Food Source: Liver and red meat; whole grains;
legumes; green leafy vegetables; dried fruit
food science basics
There are dozens o f s c ie n tific prin cip le s a t w o rk d u r­ p o rtio n o f the gas o r liquid clo se st to the heat source
ing th e coo kin g process. As an in tro d u c tio n to th e to p ic w arm s f ir s t and becom es less dense, causing it to rise
o f fo o d science, th is se ctio n pro vid es an ove rvie w o f and be replaced by cooler, denser p o rtio n s o f the gas or
th e m o s t basic o f th e se p rincip le s. For m ore in fo rm a ­ liquid. C onvection, th e re fo re , is a com b in a tio n o f con­
tio n on any o f th e fo llo w in g sub je cts, re fe r to Readings d u ctio n and m ixing.
and Resources (page 1 1 8 5 ) f o r a lis t o f fo o d science C onvection occurs b o th n a tu ra lly and throu gh m e­
references. chanical means. N a tu ra l con vectio n is a t w o rk in a p o t o f
w a te r placed on th e stove to boil. C onduction tra n s fe rs
HEATTRANSFER he at fro m th e stove to th e p o t to th e w a te r m olecules in
c o n ta c t w ith th e in te rio r o f th e pot. As the se w a te r m ol­
C ooking is th e a ct o f a p plying heat to fo o d s to prepare
ecules heat up, con vectio n causes the m to move away
the m f o r eating. W hen fo o d s are cooked, changes in f la ­
and be replaced by co o le r m olecules. This continual
vor, te x tu re , arom a, color, and n u tritio n a l c o n te n t occur
m ovem ent re s u lts in con vectio n cu rre n ts w ith in the
du rin g th e process.
w a te r. If a p o ta to is added to th e w a te r, th e convection
There are th re e ways th a t he at is tra n s fe rre d to
cu rre n ts tra n s fe r he at to th e surface o f th e p o ta to , at
fo o d s. C onduction is the d ire c t tra n s fe r o f heat betw een
w hich p o in t co n d u ctio n ta ke s over to tra n s fe r heat to
ad ja cent m olecules. An exam ple o f con du ction is co o k ­
th e in te rio r o f th e p o ta to .
ing on a f la tto p range. H eat is tra n s fe rre d fro m th e m o l­
M echanical con vectio n occurs when s tirrin g or a fan
ecules o f th e h o t range surface to th e m olecules o f the
is used to speed and equalize heat d is trib u tio n . When
ad ja cent pan b o tto m , the n fro m th e pan b o tto m to the
you s tir a th ic k sauce to he at it fa s te r and keep it fro m
pan sides and th e fo o d con tain ed w ith in th e pan. The pan
scorch in g on th e b o tto m o f th e pan, you are c re a tin g m e­
m ust be in d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith th e range f o r c on du ction
chanical con vectio n. C onvection ovens use fans to rap­
to occur.
id ly c irc u la te h o t air, a llo w in g the m to cook fo o d s m ore
Some m a te ria ls are b e tte r co n d u cto rs o f heat than
q u ickly and evenly tha n con ven tion al ovens. (N atural
o thers. G enerally, m o st m e ta ls are good con du cto rs,
con vectio n occurs in con ven tion al ovens as air in c o n ta ct
w hile gases (air), liquids, and n o n m e ta llic so lid s (glass,
w ith th e h e a tin g e lem e nt circu la te s, b u t th e m a jo rity
ceram ic) are not. Because it re lie s on d ire c t con tact,
o f heat tra n s fe r in a con ven tion al oven is th e re s u lt o f
con du ction is a re la tiv e ly s lo w m ethod o f heat tra n s fe r,
in fra re d rad ia tion.)
b u t th e slow, d ire c t tra n s fe r o f heat betw een ad ja cent
Ra d ia tio n is th e tra n s fe r o f energy th ro u g h waves
m olecules is w h a t allow s a fo o d to be cooked fro m the
o f e le c tro m a g n e tic energy th a t tra v e l ra p id ly through
o u tsid e in, re s u ltin g in a c o m p le te ly cooked e x te rio r
space. R adia tion does n o t re q u ire d ire c t co n ta c t be­
w ith a m o is t and ju ic y in te rio r.
tw ee n th e energy source and fo o d . When the waves
Co nve ction is th e tra n s fe r o f heat th ro u g h gases or
tra v e lin g th ro u g h space s trik e m a tte r and are ab­
liquids. When e ith e r o f the se substances is heated, the
sorbed, th e y cause m olecules in th e m a tte r to vib ra te

SIX BASIC PRINCIPLES OF FOOD SCIENCE

Understanding how food reacts under certain conditions is essential to becoming a profes­
sional chef. From creating a flavorful dish to developing an innovative shortcut, chefs face
challenges every day. The six basic principles of food science are as follows:

Caramelization Maillard reaction

Gelatinization Denaturation
ch a p te r 3 » THE B A S IC S OF N U T R I T I O N A N D FOOD SCIENCE

__________ ^ ________________________________________________________
m ore rapidly, in crea sing th e te m p e ra tu re . Two typ e s
o f ra d ia tio n are im p o rta n t in th e kitche n: in fra re d and
m icrow ave.
Sources o f in fra re d ra d ia tio n include th e g low ing
coals o f a charcoal g rill o r th e g lo w in g coils o f an e lec­
tr ic to a s te r, broiler, o r oven. W aves o f ra d ia n t energy
tra v e l in all d ire c tio n s fro m the se heat sources. Foods
and coo kw a re th a t absorb th e energy waves are heated.
Dark, dull, o r rough surface s absorb ra d ia n t energy b e t­
te r than lig h t-c o lo re d , polished, o r s m o o th surfaces.
T ransparent glass p e rm its th e tra n s fe r o f ra d ia n t en­
ergy, so con ven tion al oven te m p e ra tu re s should be lo w ­
ered by a p p ro x im a te ly 2 5 °F /1 4 °C fro m con vectio n oven
s e ttin g s to o ffs e t th e a d d itio n a l energy tra n s fe r th a t
occurs when using glass ba kin g dishes.
M icro w ave ra d ia tio n , produced by m icrow ave ovens,
tra n s fe rs energy th ro u g h s h o rt h ig h -fre q u e n cy waves.
When these m icrow aves are absorbed by fo o d , the y
cause the fo o d m olecules to v ib ra te fa s te r, c re a tin g
heat. M icro w ave ra d ia tio n cooks fo o d much fa s te r than
in fra re d ra d ia tio n because it p e n e tra te s fo o d s several
inches deep, whereas in fra re d is m ainly absorbed at the
surface. Depending on th e ir co m p o sitio n , fo o d s re a ct
d iffe re n tly to m icrow aves. Foods w ith high m oistu re,
sugar, o r fa t c o n te n t absorb m icrow aves b e st and heat
up m ore readily.
M icro w ave coo kin g has a fe w draw backs, however. It
is be st su ite d to coo kin g sm all batches o f fo o d s. M ea ts
cooked in a m icrow ave oven lose g re a te r am ounts o f
m o istu re and ea sily becom e dry. M icro w ave ovens also
INDUCTION COOKING
Induction cooking is a relatively new cook­
ing method that transfers heat through
a specially designed cooktop made of a
smooth ceramic material over an induc­
tion coil. The induction coil creates a
magnetic current that causes a metal pan
on the cooktop to heat up quickly, yet the
cooktop itself remains cool. Heat is then
transferred to the food in the pan through
conduction. Cookware used for induction
cooking must be flat on the bottom for
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
cannot brow n fo o d s, and m e ta l cannot be used in them
because it re fle c ts th e m icrow aves, w hich can cause
fire s and damage th e oven.
EFFECTS OF HEAT ON SUGARS AND
STARCHES: Caramelization, Maillard Reaction,
and Gelation
As discussed e a rlie r in th is chapter, carb oh ydrate s come
in various fo rm s, and each fo rm re a cts d iffe re n tly when
exposed to heat. The tw o fo rm s o f c arb oh ydrate s (sim ­
ple and com plex) th a t are o f in te re s t fro m a basic fo o d
science p e rs p e c tiv e are sugar and starch.
When exposed to heat, sugar w ill a t f ir s t m e lt in to
a th ic k syrup. As its te m p e ra tu re con tinu es to rise,
th e sugar syrup changes c o lo r fro m clear to lig h t y e l­
low to a p ro g re ssive ly deepening brown. This brow ning
process is called caram elizatio n. It is a co m p lica te d
chem ical rea ction , and in a d d itio n to co lo r change, it
also causes th e fla v o r o f th e sugar to evolve and ta ke on
th e rich c o m p le x ity th a t we know to be c h a ra c te ris tic
o f caram el. D iffe re n t typ e s o f sugar caram elize a t d if ­
fe re n t te m p e ra tu re s . G ranulated w h ite sugar m e lts at
3 2 0 °F /1 6 0 °C and begins to caram elize a t 3 3 8 °F /1 7 0 °C .
In fo o d s th a t are n o t p rim a rily sugar o r s tarch, a
d iffe re n t re a ctio n , known as th e M a illa r d reaction, is
resp on sible f o r brow ning. This re a ctio n involves sugars
and am ino acids (the bu ild in g blocks o f pro te in ). When
heated, the se com p on ents re a ct and produce num erous
chem ical b y-p ro d u cts, re s u ltin g in a brow n co lo r and
in te nse fla v o r and aroma. It is th is re a ctio n th a t gives
good contact with the cooktop, and it must
be made of ferrous (iron-containing) metal
such as cast iron, magnetic stainless steel,
or enamel over steel. Cookware made of
other materials will not heat up on these
cooktops. Induction cooking offers the ad­
vantages of rapid heating and easy cleanup
because there are no nooks on the smooth
surface of the cooktop in which spilled
foods can get stuck, nor does spilled food
cook on the cool surface.
c o ffe e , chocolate, baked goods, da rk beer, and ro a ste d
m eats and nuts much o f th e ir rich fla v o r and color.
Though th e M a iila rd re a ctio n can happen a t room
te m p e ra tu re , b o th ca ra m e liza tio n and th e M a iila rd
re a ctio n ty p ic a lly re q u ire re la tiv e ly high heat (above
B 00 °F /1 49°C ) to occu r ra p id ly enough to make an ap­
p re cia ble d iffe re n c e in foo ds. Because w a te r cannot be
heated above 2 1 2 °F /1 0 0 °C unless it is under pressure,
fo o d s cooked w ith m o is t heat (boiling, steam ing, poach­
ing, stew ing ) w ill n o t brown. Foods cooked using d ry-
heat m etho ds (sauteing, g rillin g , or ro a stin g ) w ill brown.
It is fo r th is reason th a t many stew e d and braised dishes
begin w ith an in itia l b ro w n ing o f in g re d ie n ts b e fo re liq ­
uid is added.
Starch, a com plex carb o h yd ra te , has p o w e rfu l th ic k ­
ening p ro p e rtie s . W hen sta rch is com bined w ith w a te r
or an o th e r liq u id and heated, in d ivid u a l sta rch granules
absorb th e liq u id and sw ell. This process, known as g e la ­
tion, is w h a t causes th e liquid to thicke n. G elation occurs
a t d iffe re n t te m p e ra tu re s f o r d iffe re n t typ e s o f starch.
As a general rule o f thum b, ro o t-b a se d starche s (p o ta to
and a rro w ro o t, f o r instance) th icke n a t low er te m p e ra ­
tu re s and break down m ore quickly, whereas cereal-
EGG STRUCTURE AND USES
The egg is composed of two main parts, the
white and the yolk. Various membranes help
keep the yolk suspended at the center of
the white and help prevent contamination
or weight loss through evaporation. Whole
eggs, as well as whites and yolks separately,
play a number of important culinary roles.
Whole eggs are used as the main compo­
nent of many breakfast dishes and can be
prepared by scrambling, frying, poaching,
or baking, or in custards. In baked goods,
whole eggs are used as a glaze and to add
nourishment, flavor, and color.
The egg white consists almost exclu­
sively of water and a protein called albu­
men. Its ability to form a relatively stable
foam is crucial to the development of
c h a p te r 3 » THE B A S IC S OF N U T R I T I O N A N D FOOD SC IE NCE
based starche s (corn and w heat, f o r exam ple) thicke n
at high er te m p e ra tu re s and break down m ore slowly.
High levels o f sugar o r acid can in h ib it g e la tion, w hile the
presence o f s a lt can p ro m o te it.
D EN AT U R I NG PROTEINS
A t th e m o le cu la r level, n a tural p ro te in s are shaped like
coils or springs. When n a tu ra l p ro te in s are exposed to
heat, salt, o r acid, th e y d e n a tu re — th a t is, th e ir coils
unwind. When p ro te in s denature, the y ten d to bond t o ­
g e th e r (coagulate) and fo rm solid clum ps. An exam ple o f
th is is a cooked egg w h ite , which changes fro m a tra n s ­
p a re n t flu id to an opaque solid. As p ro te in s coagulate,
th e y lose som e o f th e ir c a p a city to hold w ater, which is
w hy p ro te in -ric h fo o d s give o f f m o istu re as the y cook,
even if th e y are steam ed o r poached. F o rtu n a te ly, some
he at-in duce d d e n a tu ra tio n is re ve rsib le th ro u g h c o o l­
ing. This is w hy ro a ste d fo o d s should be allow ed to re st
b e fo re carving; as th e te m p e ra tu re fa lls, some o f the
w a te r ("juice") th a t was fo rc e d in to spaces betw een the
p ro te in s is rea bso rbed and th e fo o d becom es m oister.
D enatured p ro te in s are easier to d ig e s t than natural
p ro te in s.
proper structure in many items such as
angel food cakes, souffles, and meringues.
Egg whites are a key ingredient in clarify­
ing stocks and broths to produce con­
somme. They may also be used as a binder
in some forcemeats, especially mousselines
made from fish, poultry, or vegetables.
The yolk contains protein, a significant
amount of fat, and a natural emulsifier
called lecithin. The yolk also has the ability
to foam. This function, plus its ability to
form emulsions, makes egg yolks crucial
to the preparation of such items as may­
onnaise, hollandaise sauce, and genoise
(sponge cake). Yolks also provide addi­
tional richness to food, as when they are
included as a liaison in sauces or soups.
FU NC T I ON OF COOKING FATS
D epending on th e ir m olecu lar s tru c tu re , som e fa ts are
solid a t room te m p e ra tu re , w h ile o th e rs are liq u id a t the
same te m p e ra tu re . Fats th a t are liq u id a t room te m p e r­
atu re are known as oils. S olid fa ts s o fte n and eve ntua lly
m e lt in to a liquid s ta te when exposed to heat.
In a d d itio n to being a v ita l n u trie n t, fa t p e rfo rm s a
num ber o f c u lin a ry fu n ctio n s. It pro vid es a rich fla v o r
and s ilk y m o u th fe e l or te x tu re th a t m o st people fin d
very enjoyable and s a tis fy in g . F at also ca rrie s and
blends the fla v o rs o f o th e r fo o d s, and m akes available
to us fla v o r com pounds and n u trie n ts th a t are soluble
only in fa t. F at pro vid es an ap pe aling visu al elem e nt
when a fo o d appears, am ong o th e r things, to be m oist,
cream y, flu ffy , or shiny. D uring th e baking process, fa t
p e rfo rm s a m u ltitu d e o f chem ical fu n c tio n s such as
te n d e rizin g , leavening, aiding in m o is tu re re te n tio n ,
and c re a tin g a fla k y o r cru m b ly te x tu re . In cooking, fa t
tra n s fe rs heat to fo o d s and pre ven ts the m fro m s tic k ­
ing. It also holds th e heat in fo o d , e m u ls ifie s o r thicke ns
sauces, and cre a te s a crisp te x tu re when used f o r fry in g .
One im p o rta n t aspect o f fa t is its a b ility to be heated
to re la tiv e ly high te m p e ra tu re s w ith o u t b o ilin g or o th ­
erw ise bre aking down. This is w h a t allow s frie d fo o d s to
brown and cook quickly. If heated to high enough te m ­
pe rature s, however, fa t w ill begin to bre ak down and de­
velop an acrid flavo r, e ffe c tiv e ly ru inin g a n yth in g cooked
in it. The te m p e ra tu re a t w hich th is occurs, known as the
sm oke poin t, is d iffe re n t fo r each fa t. G enerally, veg­
eta b le oils begin to sm oke around 4 5 0 °F /2 3 2 °C , w hile
anim al fa ts begin to sm oke around 3 7 5 °F /1 9 1 °C . Any
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
a d d itio n a l m a te ria ls in th e fa t (e m u lsifie rs, pre se rva ­
tive s, p ro te in s, carb oh ydrate s) low er th e smoke point.
Because som e breakdow n occurs a t m od era te te m ­
pe ra tu re s and fo o d p a rtic le s ten d to g e t le ft in th e fa t,
re p ea te d use o f fa t also low ers the smoke point.
F OR MI N G E M U L S I O N S
An em ulsion occurs when tw o substances th a t do not
n o rm ally m ix are fo rc e d in to a m ix tu re in which one o f
th e substances is evenly dispe rsed in the fo rm o f sm all
d ro p le ts th ro u g h o u t th e other. U nder norm al con ditions,
f a t (e ith e r liquid o il o r solid fa t) and w a te r do n o t mix,
bu t the se tw o substances are th e m ost com m on in g re d i­
ents in culina ry em ulsions.
An em ulsion con sists o f tw o phases, the dispersed
phase and the con tinu ou s phase. A v in a ig re tte is an
exam ple o f an o il-in -v in e g a r em ulsion, m eaning th a t
th e oil (the dispe rsed phase) has been broken up in to
ve ry sm all d ro p le ts suspended th ro u g h o u t the vinegar
(the con tinu ou s phase). T em porary em ulsions, such as
v in a ig re tte s , fo rm q u ickly and req uire only the m echani­
cal actio n o f w hipping, shaking, or s tirrin g . To make an
em ulsion sta b le enough to keep th e oil in suspension,
a d d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts, known as e m u lsifie rs, are neces­
sary to a ttra c t and hold to g e th e r both th e o il and liquid.
C om m only used e m u ls ifie rs include egg yolks (which
con tain th e e m u ls ifie r le cithin ), m ustard, and glace
de viande. N a tu ra l starche s, such as tho se in ga rlic, or
m o d ifie d starches, such as co rn sta rch o r a rro w ro o t, are
also used.
food and
kitchen safety
The importance of food and kitchen safety cannot be overemphasized.
Few things are as detrimental to a foodservice establishment as an
officially noted outbreak of a food-borne illness caused by poor sanitary
practices. In addition to providing a sanitary atmosphere and adhering
to procedures for safe food handling, it is also important to ensure
a safe working environment. This chapter covers jfte causes of food- i
borne illnesses and prevention procedures, and/ikludes checklists

to help the s ta ff achieve sanitary and safe kitjn en conditions.

food-borne illness
Foods can serve as ca rrie rs fo r many d iffe re n t illnesses. an in fe c tio n . Som e fo o d -b o rn e illnesses have ch a ra c te r­
The m o st com m on sym p to m s o f fo o d -b o rn e illnesses is tic s o f b o th an in to x ic a tio n and an in fe ctio n . E. coli is
include abdom inal cram ps, nausea, v o m itin g , and d ia r­ an agent th a t causes such an illness.
rhea, p o ssib ly accom panied by fever. These sym ptom s
may appear w ith in a fe w hours a fte r con sum p tion o f the FOOD PATHOGENS
a ffe c te d fo o d , alth ou gh in some cases several days may
The s p e c ific ty p e s o f pathogens resp on sible f o r fo o d -
elapse b e fo re onset. In o rd e r f o r a fo o d -b o rn e illne ss to
borne illne sses are fun gi, viruses, parasites, and bac­
be declared an o ffic ia l o u tb re a k, it m u st involve tw o or
te ria . Fungi, w hich include m olds and yeast, are m ore
m ore people who have eaten th e same fo o d , and health
ad ap ta ble than o th e r m icro orga nism s and have a high
o ffic ia ls m ust c o n firm it.
to le ra n ce f o r acidic co n d itio n s. They are m ore o fte n re ­
F ood-borne illnesses are caused by a d u lte ra t e d
spo nsible f o r fo o d spoilage than f o r fo o d -b o rn e illness.
fo o d s (food s u n fit f o r human consum ption). The seve r­
B e n e ficia l fu n g i are im p o rta n t to th e fo o d in d u s try in
ity o f th e illne ss depends on th e am ount o f a d u lte ra te d
th e p ro d u c tio n o f cheese, bread, wine, and beer.
fo o d in ge ste d and, to a g re a t e xte n t, th e in d iv id u a l’s sus­
Viruses do n o t a c tu a lly m u ltip ly in fo o d , b u t if
c e p tib ility . Children, th e elde rly, and anyone whose im ­
th ro u g h p o or s a n ita tio n p ra ctice a viru s con tam in ates
mune system is already under siege g e ne rally w ill have
fo o d , con sum p tion o f th a t fo o d may re s u lt in illness.
much m ore d iffic u lty than a h e a lth y a d u lt in c o m b a tin g a
In fe c tio u s h e p a titis A, caused by e a tin g sh e llfis h har­
fo o d -b o rn e illness.
veste d fro m p o llu te d w a te rs (an ille g a l p ra ctice ) or poor
The source o f th e co n ta m in a tio n a ffe c tin g th e
hand-w ashing p ra ctice s a fte r using th e re stro o m , is an
fo o d supply can be chem ical, physical, o r biolo gical.
exam ple. Once in th e body, a viru s invades a cell (called
Inse cticide s and cleaning com pounds are exam ples o f
th e h o s t cell) and e s s e n tia lly rep rog ram s it to produce
chemical c o n ta m in a n ts th a t may a c cid e n ta lly fin d th e ir
m ore copies o f the virus. The copies leave the dead host
way in to foo ds. Physical c o n ta m in a n ts include b its o f
cell behind and invade s till m ore cells. The be st defenses
glass, ro d e n t hairs, and p a in t chips. C areless fo o d han­
against fo o d -b o rn e viru ses are good personal hygiene
d ling can mean th a t even an e a rrin g or a p la s tic bandage
and o b ta in in g s h e llfis h fro m c e rtifie d w a te rs.
could fa ll in to the fo o d and re s u lt in illne ss or injury.
P ara sit es are pathogens th a t fe e d on and ta ke shel­
Bio lo gic a l c o n ta m in a n ts account f o r th e m a jo rity
te r in a n o th e r organism , called a host. The ho st receives
o f fo o d -b o rn e illnesses. These include n a tu ra lly oc­
no b e n e fit fro m th e p a ra site and, in fa c t, s u ffe rs harm or
cu rrin g poisons, known as toxins, fo u n d in ce rta in w ild
even de ath as a re su lt. A m ebas and variou s w orm s such
m ushroom s, rhubarb leaves, green p o ta to e s, and o th e r
as Trichinella spiralis, which is a sso cia te d w ith pork, are
plants. The p re d o m in a n t b io lo g ica l agents, however, are
am ong th e p a ra site s th a t c o n ta m in a te foo ds. D iffe re n t
disease-causing m icro orga nism s known as pa thogens,
p a ra site s rep rod uce in d iffe re n t ways. One exam ple is
which are resp on sible f o r up to 95 p e rc e n t o f alt fo o d -
the p a ra s itic w orm th a t e xists in larval stage in m uscle
borne illnesses. M icro o rg a n ism s o f m any kinds are
m eats. Once consumed, its life cycle and re p ro d u ctive
p re se n t v irtu a lly everyw here, and m o st are h e lp fu l or
cycle continue. W hen th e larvae reach a d u lt stage, the
harm less, if n o t esse ntia l; only ab o u t 1 p e rce n t o f m ic ro ­
fe r tiliz e d fe m a le s release m ore eggs, which hatch and
organism s are a ctu a lly pathogenic.
tra v e l to th e m uscle tissu e o f th e host, and th e cycle
Food-borne illnesses caused by b io lo g ica l con­
continues.
ta m in a n ts fa ll in to tw o sub categ orie s: in to x ic a tio n and
B a c te ria are resp on sible f o r a s ig n ific a n t p e rc e n t­
in fe c tio n . I n to x ic a tio n occurs when a person consumes
age o f b io lo g ic a lly caused fo o d -b o rn e illnesses. In ord e r
fo o d c o n ta in in g to x in s fro m b a cteria , m olds, o r ce rta in
to b e tte r p ro te c t fo o d du rin g s torage, p re p a ra tio n , and
plan ts and anim als. Once in th e body, th e se to x in s a ct as
service, it is im p o rta n t to un de rsta nd th e c la s s ific a tio n s
poison. B o tu lism is an exam ple o f an in to x ic a tio n .
and p a tte rn s o f b a c te ria l g ro w th . Am ong th e d iff e r ­
In th e case o f an in fe ctio n, th e fo o d eaten by an in d i­
ent con ven tion s f o r the c la s s ific a tio n o f ba cteria , the
vid ua l contains large num bers o f liv in g pathogens. These
m o st re le va n t to che fs are th e ir re q u ire m e n t fo r oxygen
pathogens m u ltip ly in th e body and g e n e ra lly a tta c k the
(a e ro b ic /a n a e ro b ic /fa c u lta tiv e ), th e ir e ffe c ts on people
g a s tro in te s tin a l lining. S alm on ellosis is an exam ple o f

THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
(p a th o g e n ic /u n d e s ira b le /b e n e fic ia l/b e n ig n ), and th e ir A lth o u g h coo kin g fo o d w ill d e s tro y many o f the
s p o re -fo rm in g a b ilitie s . A e ro b ic b a c te r ia req uire the m icro o rg a n ism s pre sen t, careless fo o d handling a fte r
presence o f oxygen to grow. A na e ro b ic b a c te r ia do not coo kin g can re in tro d u c e pathogens th a t w ill g ro w even
req uire oxygen and may even die when exposed to it. m ore q u ickly w ith o u t c o m p e titio n fo r fo o d and space
F a c u lta tive b a c t e r ia are able to fu n c tio n w ith or w ith o u t fro m th e m icro o rg a n ism s th a t cause spoilage. A lthough
oxygen. It is also im p o rta n t to know a t which te m p e ra ­ s h o rtc u ts and carelessness do not always re s u lt in fo o d -
tu re b a cte ria gro w best. C ertain b a cte ria are able to borne illness, in a tte n tio n to d e ta il increases the risk o f
fo rm endospores, w hich serve as a means o f p ro te c tio n c re a tin g an o u tb re a k th a t m ay cause serious illness or
ag ainst adverse circu m sta nce s such as high te m p e ra ­ even death. The variou s kinds o f expenses re la te d to an
tu re or de hyd ration . E ndospores allow an in dividu al o u tb re a k o f fo o d -b o rn e illness, such as negative p u b lic­
b a cteriu m to resum e its life cycle if fa vo ra b le co n d itio n s ity and loss o f p re stig e , are blow s fro m which many res­
should recur. ta u ra n ts can never recover.
B acte ria re q u ire th re e basic c o n d itio n s fo r g ro w th
and re p ro d u ctio n : a p ro te in source, re a d ily available AV O I D I N G CROSS C O N T A M I N A T I O N
m oistu re, and tim e . The higher th e am ount o f p ro te in in
M any fo o d -b o rn e illne sses are a re s u lt o f u nsanitary
a fo o d , th e g re a te r its p o te n tia l as a c a rrie r o f a fo o d -
handling p ro ced ures in th e kitche n. Cross con tam in ation
borne illness. The am o un t o f m o istu re available in a
occurs when disease-causing elem e nts or h a rm fu l sub­
fo o d is m easured on th e w a te r a c tiv ity (Aw) scale. This
stances are tra n s fe rre d fro m one co n ta m in a te d surface
scale runs fro m 0 to 1, w ith 1 re p re s e n tin g th e Aw o f
to another.
water. Foods w ith a w a te r a c tiv ity above 0.85 s u p p o rt
E xce lle n t personal hygiene is one o f the be st de­
ba cte ria l g ro w th . A fo o d 's re la tiv e a c id ity o r a lk a lin ity
fen ses ag ainst cross co n ta m in a tio n . An em ployee who
is m easured on a scale known as pH. A m od era te pH — a
re p o rts fo r w o rk w ith a con tagiou s illne ss or an in fe cte d
value betw een 4.6 and 10 on a scale th a t ranges fro m 1
cu t on th e hand pu ts every cu sto m e r at risk. Any tim e
to 1 4 — is b e st f o r b a c te ria l gro w th , and m o st fo o d s fa ll
th e hands com e in c o n ta c t w ith a possible source o f con­
w ith in th a t range. A dd in g highly acidic in g re d ie n ts, such
ta m in a tio n (the face, hair, eyes, and m outh) the y m ust be
as vin eg ar o r c itru s ju ice, to a fo o d can low er its pH and
th o ro u g h ly washed b e fo re c o n tin u in g any w ork.
exte nd its s h e lf life.
Food is a t g re a te s t ris k o f cross c o n ta m in a tio n d u r­
M any fo o d s p ro vid e th e th re e co n d itio n s necessary
ing th e p re p a ra tio n stage. Ideally, sep ara te w o rk areas
fo r b a c te ria l g ro w th and are th e re fo re con sid ered to
and c u ttin g boards should be used f o r raw and cooked
be p o te n tia lly hazardous. M eats, p o u ltry , seafood, to fu ,
fo o d s. E quipm ent and c u ttin g boards should always be
and da iry p ro d u cts (w ith th e exce ptio n o f some hard
cleaned and th o ro u g h ly sa n itize d betw een uses.
cheeses) are all ca te g o rize d as p o te n tia lly hazardous
A ll fo o d m ust be s to re d c a re fu lly to pre ven t c o n ta ct
foo ds. Foods do n o t n e cessa rily have to be anim al based
betw een raw and cooked item s. Place d rip pans beneath
to con tain pro te in , however; veg etab le s and grains also
raw fo o d s. Do n o t handle re a d y -to -e a t fo o d s w ith bare
contain pro te in . Cooked rice, beans, pasta, and p o ta to e s
hands. Instead, use s u ita b le u te n sils or single-use fo o d -
are th e re fo re also p o te n tia lly hazardous foo ds. There
handling gloves.
are also o th e r u n like ly can didate s th a t are ripe f o r bac­
te ria l g ro w th such as sliced m elons, sp ro u ts, and g a rlic-
an d-o il m ixtu re s.
Food th a t con tain s pathogens in g re a t enough num ­
bers to cause illness may s till look and sm ell norm al.
D isease-causing m icro orga nism s are to o sm all to be
seen w ith th e naked eye, so it is usually im p ossib le to
a sce rta in visu a lly th a t fo o d is a d u lte ra te d . Because the
m icro o rg a n ism s— p a rtic u la rly th e b a c te ria — th a t cause
fo o d -b o rn e illne ss are d iffe re n t fro m th e ones th a t
cause fo o d to spoil, fo o d may be a d u lte ra te d and s till
have no " o ff" odor. Cross contam ination icon Hand-washing icon

c h a p te r 4 » FOOD A N D K IT C H E N S A F E T Y
PROPER HAND WASHING

To reduce the chances of cross contamina­
tion, wash your hands often and correctly.
Hands and forearms should be washed us­
ing soap and no°F/43°C water for no less
than twenty seconds. Be sure to wash your
hands at the beginning of each shift and
each new task, after handling raw foods,
after going to the bathroom, sneezing,
coughing, and so forth, and after handling
any nonfood item.

KEEPI NG FOODS O U T O F T H E th e y arrive in s a n ita ry co n d itio n s. Check the am bient

D ANGER Z ONE te m p e ra tu re inside the d e live ry tru c k to see th a t it is
co rre c t. Check th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e p ro d u ct as w e ll as
An im p o rta n t w eapon against pathogens is th e ob­
th e e x p ira tio n dates. V e rify th a t fo o d s have the req uire d
servance o f s tr ic t tim e and te m p e ra tu re co n tro ls.
go ve rn m e n t in sp e ctio n and c e rtific a tio n stam ps or tags.
G enerally, th e disease-causing m icro orga nism s fo u n d in
R andom ly sam ple ite m s and re je c t any goods th a t do
fo o d s, w ith th e exce ptio n o f E. coli 0 1 57 :H 7, need to be
n o t m ee t you r stan dard s. M ove th e ite m s im m e d ia te ly
pre se n t in s ig n ific a n t q u a n titie s in o rd e r to make som e­
in to p ro p e r sto ra g e con ditions.
one ill. Once pathogens have e sta b lish e d the m se lve s in
R e frig e ra tio n and fre e z e r u n its should be m ain­
a fo o d source, th e y w ill e ith e r th riv e or be d e stro yed ,
tain ed on a reg ular schedule and equipped w ith th e r­
depending upon how lo n g fo o d s are in th e danger zone.
m o m e te rs to a sce rta in th a t th e te m p e ra tu re rem ains
There are pathogens th a t can live a t all te m p e ra tu re
w ith in a safe range. A lth o u g h in m o st cases c h illin g w ill
ranges. For m o st o f tho se capable o f c a u s in g fo o d -b o rn e
n o t a ctu a lly k ill pathogens, it does d ra s tic a lly slow down
illness, the frie n d lie s t e n viro n m e n t pro vid es te m p e ra ­
re p ro d u ctio n . In general, re frig e ra to rs should be kept
tu re s w ith in a range o f 41° to 1 3 5 °F /5 ° to 57°C — the
betw een 36° and 4 0 °F /2 ° and 4°C, b u t q u a lity is b e tte r
danger zone. M o s t pathogens are e ith e r d e stro ye d or
m a intained i f c e rta in fo o d s can be sto re d a t the se spe­
w ill n o t rep rod uce a t te m p e ra tu re s above 135°F /57°C .
c ific te m p e ra tu re s:
S to rin g fo o d a t te m p e ra tu re s below 41 °F /5 °C w ill slow
o r in te rru p t the cycle o f re p ro d u ctio n . (It should also be M ea t and poultry: 32 ° to 3 6 °F /0 ° to 2°C
noted th a t in to x ic a tin g pathogens may be d e stro ye d
Fish and shellfish: 30° to 3 4 ° F /-1 ° to 1°C
du rin g cooking, b u t any to x in s th e y have produced are
s till there.) Eggs: 38° to 4 0 ° F /3 ° to 4 ° C
When co n d itio n s are favo ra ble, b a cte ria can re p ro ­
Dairy products: 36° to 4 0 °F /2 ° to 4°C
duce a t an a sto n ish in g rate. T here fore, c o n tro llin g the
tim e du rin g w hich fo o d s rem ain in th e danger zone is Produce: 40 ° to 4 5 °F /4 ° to 7°C
c ritic a l to th e p re ve n tio n o f fo o d -b o rn e illness. Foods
S ep ara te re frig e ra to rs f o r each o f the above c a t­
le ft in the danger zone fo r a pe rio d longer than fo u r ■
egories are ideal, b u t if necessary, a single u n it can be
hours are considered a d u lte ra te d . A d d itio n a lly , the
fo u r-h o u r pe rio d is cum ulative, m eaning th a t th e m e te r
135° F
continues running every tim e th e fo o d en te rs th e danger * / ' 57° C
135° F
zone. Once th e fo u r-h o u r pe rio d has been exceeded, 57° C
heating or coo lin g cannot reco ver foo ds.

receive and store foods safely

0 41 °F
5° C
70° F
'2 1 ° C

41° F
5° C
It is not unheard o f fo r fo o d s to be d e live red to a fo o d -
service o p e ra tio n already co n ta m in a te d . To pre ve n t u
th is fro m happening to you, in sp e ct all goods to be sure Danger zone icon Time and tem perature icon

THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
d ivide d in to sectio ns. The fr o n t o f th e u n it w ill be the
w a rm e st area, th e back th e co ld e st. B e fo re s to rin g fo o d
in th e re frig e ra to r, it should be p ro p e rly cooled, sto re d
in clean con tain ers, w rapped, and labeled cle a rly w ith
the co n te n ts and date. S to re raw p ro d u cts below and
away fro m cooked fo o d s to pre ve n t cross co n ta m in a tio n
by d ripp ing . Use th e p rin c ip le o f " f ir s t in, f ir s t o u t" (FIFO)
when arra ng ing fo o d , so th a t o ld e r ite m s are in th e fro n t.
Dry sto ra g e is used f o r fo o d s such as canned goods,
spices, con dim ents, cereals, and sta p le s such as flo u r
and sugar, as w e ll as f o r som e fr u its and veg etab le s th a t
do n o t re q u ire re frig e ra tio n and have low p e ris h a b ility .
As w ith all storag e, th e area m ust be clean, w ith p ro pe r
v e n tila tio n and a ir circ u la tio n . Cleaning supplies should
be sto re d in a sep ara te place.
hold cooked or ready-to-serve
foods safely
Keep h o t fo o d s h o t and cold fo o d s cold. Use h o t-h o ld in g
e q uipm en t (steam ta b le s, double bo ile rs, bain-m aries,
heated cab in ets or draw ers, ch a fin g dishes, etc.) to keep
fo o d s a t or above 13 5 °F /5 7 °C . Do n o t use h o t-h o ld in g
eq uipm en t fo r coo kin g or reh ea ting. Use co ld -h o ld in g
e q uipm en t (ice o r re frig e ra tio n ) to keep cold fo o d s a t or
below a te m p e ra tu re o f 4 1 °F /5 °C .
cool foods safely
One o f th e leading causes o f fo o d -b o rn e illness is
im p ro p e rly cooled fo o d . Cooked fo o d s th a t are to be
sto re d need to be cooled to below 41 °F /5 °C as qu ickly
as possible. This should be co m p le te d w ith in fo u r hours,
SAFE HANDLING OF EGGS
Today’s consumer is well aware of the po­
tential for food-borne illness through eggs.
Therefore, we will look at basic rules for safe
handling of eggs and foods containing eggs.
» All eggs in the shell should be free from
cracks, leaks, and obvious holes.
» Raw egg yolks are a potentially hazardous
food, due to the possible presence o f Sal­
monella enteritidis bacteria. Salmonella
bacteria are killed when the eggs are held
unless you use th e tw o -s ta g e coo lin g m ethod. In the
f ir s t stage o f th is m ethod, fo o d s m ust be cooled to
7 0 °F /2 1 °C w ith in tw o hours. In the second stage, foo ds
m ust reach 4 1 °F /5 °C o r below w ith in an a d d itio n a l fo u r
hours, f o r a to ta l c o o lin g tim e o f six hours. A ccording
to FDA guidelines, using th e tw o -s ta g e m ethod quickly
moves th e fo o d th ro u g h th e p a rt o f th e danger zone
w here b a cte ria gro w m o st rapidly.
The p ro p e r w ay to cool h o t liquids is to place them
in a m e ta l c o n ta in e r in an ice w a te r bath th a t reaches
th e same level as th e liquid inside th e container. S tir the
liq u id in th e c o n ta in e r fre q u e n tly so th a t th e w arm er
liq u id a t th e c e n te r m ixes w ith the coo le r liquid a t the
o u te r edges o f th e con tain er, bring ing down the overall
te m p e ra tu re m ore rapidly.
S em isolid and solid fo o d s should be re frig e ra te d in
a single layer in shallow con tain ers to allow g re a te r su r­
fa ce exposure to th e cold air. For th e same reason, large
cuts o f m eat o r o th e r fo o d s should be cu t in to sm aller
p o rtio n s , cooled to room te m p e ra tu re , and w rapped be­
fo re re frig e ra tin g .
reheat foods safely
When fo o d s are pre pa red ahead and then reheated, they
should move th ro u g h th e danger zone as ra p id ly as pos­
sib le and be re h ea te d to a t le a st 1 6 5 °F /7 4 °C fo r a m in i­
mum o f fifte e n seconds. As long as all p ro p e r cooling
and re h e a tin g pro ced ures are fo llo w e d each tim e, fo o d s
may be cooled and re h ea te d m ore than once.
Food should be b ro u g h t to th e p ro p e r te m p e ra tu re
over d ire c t heat (burner, fla tto p , g rill, or conventional
at a temperature o f at least 14o°F/6o°C for
a minimum of^Vi minutes. The bacteria
are also killed instantly at i6o°F/yi°C.
Fried eggs or poached eggs with runny
yolks should be prepared only at customer
request.
» Any food containing eggs must be kept at
safe temperatures throughout handling,
cooking, and storage. Cooling and reheat­
ing must be done quickly.
c h a p te r 4 » FOOD A N D KIT CHEN S A F E T Y
oven) or in a microwave oven. Do not use hot-holding
equipment for cooking or reheating. A steam table will
adequately hold reheated foods above 1 3 5°F /57°C , but
it will not bring foods out of the danger zone quickly
enough. Instant-read therm om eters should always be
used to check tem peratures.
thaw frozen foods safely
Frozen foods may be thawed safely in several ways.
Never thaw food at room tem perature. The best (though
slowest) method is to allow the food to thaw under re­
frigeration. The food should still be wrapped and should
be placed in a shallow container on a bottom shelf to
prevent possible cross contamination.
If there is not tim e to thaw foods in the refrigerator,
covered or wrapped food may be placed in a container
under running w ater of approxim ately 7 0 °F /2 1 °C or
below. Use a stream of w ater strong enough to circulate
the w ater around the food.
Individual portions th at are to be cooked immedi­
ately may be thawed in a microwave oven. Liquids, small
items, and individual portions may even be cooked w ith ­
out thawing, but larger pieces th a t are cooked while still
frozen become overcooked on the outside before they
are thoroughly done throughout.
H A Z A R D A N A L Y S I S C R I T I C A L CON T RO L
PO I N TS ( HACCP)
HACCP stands for Hazard Analysis Critical Control
Points, which is a scientific s ta te -o f-th e -a rt food safety
program originally developed fo r astronauts. HACCP
takes a systematic approach to the conditions th at are
responsible fo r most food-borne illnesses. It is preven­
tive in nature, anticipating how food safety problems
are most likely to occur and taking steps to prevent
them from occurring. The types of hazards of concern
are biological, chemical, and physical. Biological hazards
are typically microbiological, which include bacteria,
viruses, and parasites. Chemical hazards can be found in
the sanitation products used in the kitchen and physical
hazards include glass, wood, stones, or other foreign
objects.
The HACCP system has been adopted by both food
processors and restaurants, as well as by the FDA and
USDA. At this time, there are no particular mandates
th at all foodservice establishments must use HACCP.
However, instituting such a plan may prove advanta­
geous on many levels. The heart of HACCP is contained
in the following seven principles:
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
1 ASSESS THE HAZARDS. The firs t step in a HACCP
program begins with a hazard analysis of the menu
item or recipe. The process must be looked at by
designing a flow chart th a t covers every step in the
period from "dock to dish."
2. ID E N T IFY T H E CRITICAL CONTROL POINTS.The
next decision to make, a fte r you have established
a flow diagram and identified potential hazards,
is to identify the critical control points (CCPs). A
critical control point is the place in the utilization
of the food at which you have the ability to prevent,
eliminate, or reduce an existing hazard or to pre­
vent or minimize the likelihood th a t a hazard will
occur. To quote the 1 9 9 9 FDA Food Code, a critical
control point is "a point or procedure in a specific
food system where loss of control may result in an
unacceptable health risk." One of the most difficu lt
aspects of putting to gether a HACCP program is not
to overidentify these critical control points.
3 ESTABLISH CRITICAL LIM ITS AND CONTROL
MEASURES. Critical limits are generally standards
fo r each critical control point; control measures
are what you can do ahead of tim e to fac ilitate the
achievement of your critical limit. Many limits have
already been established by local health depart­
ments. For example, an established critical limit
fo r the cooking step in preparing chicken is a final
internal tem perature of 1 6 5 °F /7 4 °C . If you were to
hold this chicken on the line before actual service, it
would have to be kept at 1 4 0 °F /6 0 °C to prevent the
growth of pathogenic organisms. Holding would be
another critical step in this process.
4. ESTABLISH PROCEDURES FOR MONITORING
CCPs. Critical limits fo r each CCP have to be estab­
lished to identify what is to be monitored. You must
also establish how the CCP wilt be monitored and
who will do it. Monitoring helps improve the system
by forcing identification of problems or faults at
particular points in the process. This allows fo r more
control or improvement in the system.
5. ESTABLISH CORRECTIVE ACTION PLANS. A plan of
action must be identified to deal with a deviation or
substandard level th at occurs fo r a step in the pro­
cess. Specific corrective actions must be developed
fo r each CCP, because each food item and its prepa­
ration can vary greatly from one kitchen to the next.
 6. SET UP A RECORD-KEEPING SYSTEM. Keep docu­
mentation on hand to demonstrate whether the sys­
tem is working. Recording events at CCPs ensures that
critical limits are met and preventive monitoring is
occurring. Documentation typically consists of tim e /
temperature logs, checklists, and sanitation forms.
7. DEVELOP A VERIFICATION SYSTEM. This step es­
tablishes procedures to ensure th at the HACCP plan
is working correctly. If procedures are not being
followed, make the necessary modifications to the
system so th at they are.
SE R VI N G FOODS SA F EL Y
The p o te n tia l to tra n s m it fo o d -b o rn e illne ss does not
end when th e fo o d leaves th e kitche n. R e sta ura nt s e rv­
ers should also be in s tru c te d in good hygiene and safe
fo o d -h a n d lin g pra ctices. Hands should be p ro p e rly
w ashed a fte r using th e re stro o m , eating, sm oking,
to u ch in g one's face o r hair, and handling m oney, d irty
dishes, or soiled ta b le linens. W hen s e ttin g tab les, never
FOOD ALLERGIES
The way your body reacts when you eat a
food to which you are truly allergic can be
dramatic or even dangerous. An allergic
reaction to a food may also occur rapidly.
The skin may become itchy and develop
hives or welts. Some people experience
swelling of their throats or tongues. Severe
reactions require immediate medical
attention.
A true food allergy is nothing to fool
around with. As a chef, you can’t assume
that a request for “no garlic” indicates an
unevolved palate or an unreasonable food
dislike. For the individual suffering from a
food allergy, even the merest hint of garlic
in his or her soup can set off a reaction.
People who suffer from an allergy
will ask about the menu in regard to the
food(s) that they cannot eat. It is impor­
tant that you and your staff know the
ingredients used in a dish. As of January
2006 all packaged foods that contain
to u ch th e p a rts o f fla tw a re th a t come in c o n ta c t w ith
fo o d , and handle glassw a re by th e stem s or bases only.
C arry plates, glasses, and fla tw a re in such a way th a t
fo o d c o n ta c t surface s are n o t touched. Serve all fo o d s
using th e p ro p e r utensils.
CLEANING AND SA NITIZING
Cleaning re fe rs to th e rem oval o f soil or fo o d p a r­
tic le s , whereas san itizin g involves using m o ist heat or
chem ical agents to k ill pa thog en ic m icroorganism s. For
e q u ip m e n t th a t can no t be im m ersed in a sink, o r fo r
e q u ip m e n t such as knives and c u ttin g boards em ployed
du rin g fo o d p re p a ra tio n , use a w ip in g c lo th soaked in a
d o u b le -s tre n g th sa n itiz in g s o lu tio n to clean and san itize
betw een uses. Iodine, chlorine, or qu a te rn a ry ammonium
com pounds are all com m on s a n itizin g agents.
Sm all eq uipm en t, to o ls , pots, and ta b le w a re should
be run th ro u g h a w a re-w a shing m achine o r washed
m anually in a th re e -c o m p a rtm e n t sink. A fte r sanitizing,
e q u ip m e n t and ta b le w a re should be allow ed to a ir-d ry
major food allergens must identify them
on the label, so you must be certain that
you have read the label on prepared foods
thoroughly.
It is also important to realize that de­
pending on an individual’s sensitivity, even
the very small amount of allergen left on
a piece of equipment and transferred to a
food could be enough to set off a reaction.
Some of the most common food aller­
gies are to the following:
» Peanuts
» Tree nuts
» Milk
» Eggs
» Wheat
» Soy
» Fish
» Shellfish
c h a p te r 4 » FOOD A N D K IT CHEN S A F E T Y
co m p le te ly, because using paper or c lo th to w e lin g could
re s u lt in cross co n ta m in a tio n .
C a reful s a n ita tio n procedures, p ro p e r handling o f
foo ds, and a w e ll-m a in ta in e d fa c ility all w o rk to g e th e r
kitchen safety
In a d d itio n to th e p re ca u tio n s necessary to guard
a g ainst fo o d -b o rn e illness, care m ust also be take n to
avoid accid e n ts to s t a f f and guests. The fo llo w in g
s a fe ty m easures should be p ra cticed .
HEALTH AND HY GI E N E
M a intain good general health w ith reg ular checkups. Do
n o t handle fo o d when ill. Keep any burn or break in the
skin covered w ith a clean, w a te rp ro o f bandage. Cover
your face w ith a tissu e when coughing or sneezing and
wash hands a fte rw a rd .
Keep hair clean and neat, and con tain it if necessary.
Keep fin g e rn a ils s h o rt and w e ll m aintained, w ith no p o l­
ish. Keep hands away fro m hair and face when w o rkin g
w ith foo d.
FIRE S A F E T Y
It takes only a fe w seconds fo r a sim ple fla re -u p to turn
in to a fu ll-scale fire . Grease fire s, e le ctrica l fire s, or even
a w aste container fu ll o f paper catching fire when a match
is carelessly tossed in to it are easy to imagine in any busy
kitchen. A com prehensive fire sa fe ty plan should be in
place and a standard p a rt o f all employee training.
The f ir s t ste p to ta ke to avoid fire s is to make sure
th a t the e n tire s t a f f is fu lly aware o f p o te n tia l fir e dan­
gers. Be sure th a t all e q u ip m e n t is up to code. Frayed or
exposed w ire s and fa u lty plugs can all to o ea sily be the
cause o f a fire . O verburdened o u tle ts are a n o th e r com ­
mon c u lp rit.
Have fir e e xtin g u ish e rs in easily accessible areas.
P rop er m aintenance o f e xtin g u ish e rs and tim e ly inspec­
tio n s by your local fir e d e p a rtm e n t are v ita l. The exits
fro m all areas o f the bu ild in g should be easy to fin d ,
clear o f any o b s tru c tio n s , and fu lly op e ra tio n a l.
Thorough tra in in g is esse ntia l. Everyone should
know w h a t to do in case o f a fire . Your g u ests re ly on you
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
to p re ve n t a p e st in fe s ta tio n . Take th e necessary steps
to p ro h ib it th e p o te n tia l ha rb o rin g o f various pathogens
caused by pests.
and you r s t a f f f o r guidance. In s tru c t your kitche n s t a f f
in the c o rre c t w ay to handle a g rill fire and grease fire .
(Above all, make sure everyone knows never to t r y to p u t
o u t a grease, chem ical, o r e le c tric a l fire by th ro w in g w a­
te r on th e flam es.) Everyone should know where th e fire
d e p a rtm e n t num ber is posted.
DRESS I NG FOR S A F E T Y
The various p a rts o f the ty p ic a l c h e fs u n ifo rm play im ­
p o rta n t roles in keeping w o rke rs safe as the y operate in
a p o te n tia lly dangerous en viro nm en t. The ch e fs ja cket,
fo r instance, is d o ub le-b rea ste d to crea te a tw o -la ye r
clo th b a rrie r over th e che st to p ro te c t a gainst steam
burns, splashes, and spills. (The design also allow s the
ja c k e t to be re b u tto n e d on the o p p o site side to cover
any spills.) The sleeves o f the ja c k e t are long to cover as
much o f the arm as possible. Pants should be worn w ith ­
o u t cu ffs, which can tra p h o t liquids and debris.
Be it a ta ll w h ite to q u e or a fa v o rite baseball cap,
chefs w ear hats to con tain th e ir hair and pre ven t it fro m
fa llin g in to th e fo o d . H ats also help absorb sw e at fro m
ove rhe ated brow s. N e ckerch iefs serve a s im ila r sw eat-
a b so rb in g role.
The apron is worn only to p ro te c t th e ja c k e t and
pants fro m excessive staining. Side to w e ls are used to
p ro te c t th e ir hands when w o rk in g w ith h o t pans, dishes,
or o th e r eq uipm en t. Side to w e ls used to l i f t hot item s
m ust be d ry in o rd e r to pro vid e p ro te c tio n .
Hard le a th e r shoes w ith s lip -re s is ta n t soles are re c­
om m ended because o f th e p ro te c tio n th e y o ffe r and the
s u p p o rt th e y give fe e t.
Jackets, pants, aprons, side tow e ls, and shoes can
h a rbo r b a cte ria , m olds, and p a rasite s. Use hot w ater, a
good d e te rg e n t, and a san itize r, such as borax or chlo­
rine bleach, to rem ove grim e.
regulations, inspection, and certification
Federal, s ta te , and local go ve rn m e n t re g u la tio n s w o rk
to ensure th e w holesom eness o f th e fo o d th a t reaches
the public. Any new fo o d s e rv ic e business should c o n ta c t
the local he alth d e p a rtm e n t w ell in advance o f opening
to a sce rta in necessary legal re q u ire m e n ts. Some s ta te s
and local ju ris d ic tio n s o ffe r s a n ita tio n c e rtific a tio n
program s. R e gu latio ns and te s tin g v a ry fro m area to
area. C e rtific a tio n is o fte n available th ro u g h c e rta in
academ ic in s titu tio n s .
THE OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH
ADM IN ISTR ATION (OSHA)
OSHA is a fe d e ra l o rg a n iza tio n , in s titu te d in 1970,
th a t fa lls under th e p u rvie w o f th e H e alth and Human
S ervices A d m in is tra tio n . Its re g u la tio n s help em ployers
and w o rke rs e sta b lish and m a intain a safe, h e a lth y w o rk
drugs and alcohol in the workplace
One fin a l to p ic th a t is o f g re a t im p o rta n ce in th e w o rk ­
place is th e rig h t o f all w o rke rs to be fre e fro m the
hazards posed by a co w o rke r w ho com es to w o rk under
the in flue nce o f drugs o r alcohol. The abuse o f any sub­
stance is a serious concern because it can a lte r or im p air
one's a b ility to p e rfo rm his o r her jo b . R eaction tim e s
en viro n m e n t. A m ong OSHA's re g u la tio n s is th e m andate
th a t all places o f e m p lo ym e n t m ust have an adequate
and ea sily accessible firs t-a id k it on th e prem ises. In
a d d itio n , i f any o rg a n iza tio n has m ore than ten em ploy­
ees, re co rd s m ust be ke p t o f all accide nts and in juries
to em ployees th a t re q u ire m edical tre a tm e n t. OSHA
co n ce n tra te s its e ffo r ts on p ro v id in g services where the
ris k to w o rk e r s a fe ty is g re a te s t.
AMERICANS WITH D ISABILITIES ACT (ADA)
This a ct is in te n d e d to make pu blic places accessible
and safe f o r th o se w ith a v a rie ty o f d is a b ilitie s . Any new
c o n s tru c tio n o r re m o d e lin g done to a re s ta u ra n t m ust
m e e t ADA stan dard s. This includes lo c a tin g telephones
so th a t a person in a w h ee lcha ir can reach the m and p ro ­
v id in g to ile ts w ith handrails.
are slowed, in h ib itio n s are low ered, and ju d g m e n t is
im p aire d. The re s p o n s ib ilitie s o f a p ro fe s s io n a l w o rking
in any kitch e n are to o g re a t to allow som eone s u ffe rin g
fro m a substance abuse pro blem to dim inish the resp ect
and tr u s t you have b u ilt w ith you r custo m e rs and s ta ff.
ch a p te r 4 » FOOD A N D K IT C H E N S A F E T Y
 tools
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mBBUBSmm B n n lH H R filH H U H
equipment
identification
Tools, large and small, make it possible fo r chefs to do their jobs well;
in fact, using the right tool for the job is one of the hallmarks of a
professional. Equally important is the ability to handle and care for each
tool, whether it is a cutting board, a knife, a mandoline, or a stockpot.
knives
A ssem b lin g a personal co lle c tio n o f knives is one o f
the f ir s t ste p s in becom ing a p ro fe ssio n a l. Just as an
a r tis t or c ra fts p e rs o n g a th e rs to g e th e r th e to o ls neces­
sary fo r pa in ting, scu lp tin g , o r draw ing, you w ill need to
se le ct knives th a t allow you to do your w o rk in th e s a f­
e st and m o st e ffic ie n t way. The knives you choose w ill
becom e as im p o rta n t to you as you r own fin g e rs — qu ite
lite ra lly an exte nsio n o f your own hands.
1. Handle knives with respect. Knives can be damaged if
they are handled carelessly. Even though good-quality
knives are manufactured to last a lifetim e, they are
still prone to damage if not properly taken care of.
2. Keep knives sharp. Learn the proper techniques for
both sharpening and honing knives. A sharp knife not
only performs better, but is safer to use because less
effo rt is required to cut through the food. There are
many ways to sharpen knives. Use a stone periodi­
cally, a sharpening machine, or send them to a profes­
sional cutlery sharpener.
3. Keep knives clean. Clean knives thoroughly immedi­
ately a fte r using them. Sanitize the entire knife, in­
cluding the handle, bolster, and blade, as necessary, so
that the tool will not cross contaminate food. Do not
clean knives in a dishwasher.
4. Use safe handling procedures for knives. There are
standards of behavior that should be remembered
when using knives. When you are passing a knife, lay it
down on a work surface so that the handle is extended
toward the person who will pick it up. Whenever you
must carry a knife from one area of the kitchen to
another, hold the knife straight down at your side with
the sharp edge facing behind you, and let people know
you are passing by with something sharp. When you
lay a knife down on a work surface, be sure that no
part of it extends over the edge of the cutting board
or worktable. Also, do not cover the knife with food,
towels, equipment, and the like. Be sure the blade is
facing away from the edge of the work surface. Do not
attem pt to catch a falling knife.
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
5. Use an appropriate cutting surface. Cutting directly
on metal, glass, or marble surfaces will dull and even­
tually damage the blade of a knife. To prevent dulling,
always use wooden or composition cutting boards.
6. Keep knives properly stored. There are a number of
safe, practical ways to store knives, including in knife
kits or rolls, slots, or racks, and on magnetized hold­
ers. Storage systems should be kept just as clean as
knives.
THE P A R T S O F A KNIFE
To se le c t a k n ife o f good q u a lity th a t f it s your hand w e ll
and is su ita b le f o r th e in te nd ed task, you need a basic
know ledge o f th e variou s p a rts o f a knife.
blades
C u rrently, th e m o s t fre q u e n tly used m a te ria l f o r blades
is high-carbon sta in le ss stee l. O th er m a te ria ls, such as
sta in le ss ste e l and carbon stee l, are also available.
A ltho ug h carb o n -ste e l blades ta ke a b e tte r edge
than e ith e r reg ular o r high-carbon sta in le ss steel, they
ten d to lose th e ir sharpness quickly. Also, ca rb o n -ste e l
blades w ill d is c o lo r when th e y come in to c o n ta c t w ith
acidic foo ds. The m e ta l is b r ittle and can break easily
under stress.
Stain le ss ste e l is much s tro n g e r than carbon stee l
and w ill n o t d is c o lo r o r rust. It is d iff ic u lt to g e t a good
edge on a s ta in le s s -s te e l blade, although once an edge
is e sta blished , it te n d s to la s t longer than th e edge on a
c a rb o n -ste e l blade.
H igh-carbon stain le ss ste e l is a re la tiv e ly rece nt
d e velopm e nt th a t com bines the advantages o f carbon
s te e l and sta in le ss stee l. The higher percentage o f c a r­
bon allow s the blade to ta ke and keep a keener edge.
The m o st de sira ble ty p e o f blade fo r general use is
ta p e r-g ro u n d , m eaning th a t th e blade has been fo rg e d
o u t o f a single she et o f m e ta l and has been ground so
th a t it ta p e rs sm o o th ly fro m th e spine to th e c u ttin g
edge, w ith no a p p a re n t beveling.
H o llo w -g ro un d blades are m ade by com b in ing tw o
sheets o f m etal. The edges are then beveled or flu te d .
 knives
tangs
TIP
The ta n g is a c o n tin u a tio n o f the blade th a t exte nds in to
th e knife 's handle. Knives used f o r heavy w ork, such as
c h e fs knives o r cleavers, should have a fu ll tang; th a t is,
th e ta n g is a lm o s t as long as th e e n tire handle. A ltho ug h
blades w ith p a rtia l tan gs are n o t as durable, th e y are
acce ptab le on knives th a t w ill be used less fre q u e n tly .
R a t-ta il tan gs are much n a rrow e r than th e spine o f the
blade and are encased in th e handle.

handles CUTTING
EDGE
A p re fe rre d m a te ria l f o r k n ife handles is rosew ood,
because it is e x tre m e ly hard and has a very t ig h t or
SPINE
fin e grain, w hich helps p re ve n t s p littin g and cracking.
Im p re g n a tin g wood w ith p la s tic p ro te c ts th e handle
fro m damage caused by con tinu ed exposure to w a te r
and d e te rg e n ts. The handle should f i t y ou r hand com ­
fo rta b ly . A c o m fo rta b le f i t w ill reduce fa tig u e .

HEEL
rivets
M e ta l riv e ts are usually used to secure th e ta n g to the BO LSTER

handle. The riv e ts should be co m p le te ly sm oo th and lie

flu sh w ith th e surface o f th e handle.
HANDLE

bolsters RIVETS
In some knives, th e re is a c o lla r o r shank, known as a
b o lste r, a t th e p o in t w here th e blade m ee ts th e handle.
This is a sign o f a w e ll-m a d e kn ife . The b o ls te r helps to
balance th e k n ife and p ro te c t th e hand fro m accide ntal
slips. Some knives m ay have a c o lla r th a t looks like a
b o ls te r b u t is a ctu a lly a sep ara te piece a tta ch e d to
th e handle. These knives te n d to com e a p a rt easily and PARTS OF A KNIFE
should be avoided.

c h a p t e r s » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 45
types of knives A wide array of knives is knife, boning knife, paring knife, and sheer—but also a
available to suit specific functions. As you continue to number of special knives. This list is intended as a guide
work in professional kitchens, your knife kit will grow to the knives that may be found in nearly any well-
to encompass not only the basics—chef’s or French outfitted knife kit.

SCIMITAR

SERRATED
SUCERS
(painted and
round tipped)

C LEA V ER U TILITY KNIVES

F LE X IB LE SLICER

BONING KNIFE FLU TED -EDG E PARING TOURNE

FRENCH KNIVES SAN TO KU KNIFE KNIFE

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
 knives
Common Kitchen Knives
NAME(S) CHARACTERISTICS COMMON USES

chef’s knife/ Blade 8 - 1 2 inches long A ll-p u rp o s e kn ife : a v a rie ty o f chop­

French knife ping, slicing, and m incing chores

utility knife Sm aller, lig h te r c h e fs k n ife w ith a blade V arious c u ttin g chores
5 - 8 inches long

paring knife Blade 2 - 4 inches long P aring and trim m in g ve g e ta b le s and

fr u its

boning knife Blade is th in n e r than th a t o f c h e fs kn ife , S e p a ra tin g raw m ea t fro m bone

ab ou t 6 inches long, and rig id

filleting knife S im ila r in shape and size to a boning F ille tin g fis h
kn ife , b u t th in n e r and w ith a m ore f le x ­
ible blade

slicer Long blade w ith a round o r p o in te d tip ; S lic in g cooked m eat; also s u ita b le fo r
blade may be fle x ib le or rig id , ta p e re d or s lic in g fo o d such as sm oked salm on
round, o r have a flu te d edge

cleaver Heavy enough to cu t th ro u g h bones; C hopping

re c ta n g u la r blade; va rie s in size a c c o rd ­
ing to its in te n d e d use

tourne knife S im ila r to a pa rin g kn ife ; has curved T ourneeing veg etab le s
blade to fa c ilita te c u ttin g curved s u r­
fa ce s o f to u rn e e d ve g e ta b le s

ch a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 47
S H A R P E N I N G AND HONI NG 1. Assem ble your m iseen place.

The key to th e p ro p e r and e ffic ie n t use o f any k n ife is
m aking sure th a t it is sharp. A k n ife w ith a sharp blade
always w o rks b e tte r and m ore s a fe ly because it cuts
easily. K nife blades are given an edge on a sharpening
ston e and m aintained betw een sharpenings by honing
the m w ith a steel.
S harpening ston es are e sse ntia l to the p ro p e r m ain­
tenance o f knives. Sharpen th e blade by passing its edge
over th e ston e a t a 2 0 -d e g re e angle. The g r it — th e de­
gree o f coarseness or fine ne ss o f the stone's su rfa c e —
abrades th e blade's edge, c re a tin g a sharp c u ttin g edge.
When sharpening a kn ife , always begin by using the
coa rsest surface o f the stone, and then move on to the
fin e r surfaces.
A ston e w ith a fin e g r it should be used fo r boning
knives and o th e r to o ls on w hich an e sp e cia lly sharp
edge is req uire d. M o s t ston es may be used e ith e r dry or
m oiste ne d w ith w a te r or m ineral oil.
C arborundum stones have a fin e side and a m edium
side. Arkan sas ston es are available in several grades
o f fine ne ss. Some co n sist o f th re e ston es o f varying
degrees o f fine ne ss m ounted on a wheel. Dia m ond-
im p re g n a te d stones are also available. A lth o u g h the y
are expensive, som e chefs p re fe r the m because the y
fe e l the se stones give a sha rpe r edge.
O pinion is s p lit ab ou t w h e th e r a k n ife blade should
be run over a ston e fro m heel to tip or tip to heel. M o st
chefs do agree th a t con sisten cy in the d ire c tio n o f
th e stro k e used to pass th e blade over th e ston e is
im p o rta n t.
B e fo re using a stone, be sure th a t it is p ro p e rly s ta ­
bilized. No m a tte r which m ethod you use, keep th e f o l­
low ing g uidelines in mind:
2. Anchor th e stone to keep it fro m slipping as you work.
Place carborundum or diam ond stones on a damp
clo th or rubber mat. A trip le -fa c e d stone is m ounted
on a ro ta tin g fram ew ork th a t can be locked in to posi­
tio n so th a t it cannot move.
3. Lubricate th e stone w ith m ineral oil or water. Be con­
s is te n t about th e typ e o f lu brica nt you use on your
stone. W ater or m ineral oil helps reduce fric tio n as
you sharpen your knife. The heat caused by fric tio n
may not seem sig n ifica n t, b u t it can eventually harm
th e blade.
4 Begin sharpening the edge on th e coarsest g r it you
require. The du lle r th e blade, th e coarser th e g rit
should be.
5 Run th e e n tire edge over the surface o f the stone,
keeping th e pressure even on th e knife. Hold the knife
a t th e co rre c t angle as you w ork. A 20-degree angle
is suitable fo r c h e f’s knives and knives w ith sim ilar
blades. You may need to adjust th e angle by a fe w
degrees to p ro p e rly sharpen th in n e r blades such as
slicers, o r th ic k e r blades such as cleavers.
6 Alw ays sharpen th e blade in th e same directio n. This
ensures th a t th e edge rem ains even and in proper
alignm ent.
7 Make strokes o f equal num ber and equal pressure on
each side o f th e blade. Do not oversharpen th e edge
on coarse stones. A fte r about te n strokes on each
side o f th e blade, move on to the next fin e r g rit.
8 Finish sharpening on th e fin e s t stone then wash and
dry th e k n ife th o ro u g h ly b e fore using or sto rin g it.

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 knives
Sharpening method one

1. Use fo u r fin g e rs o f th e g u id ing hand to m aintain 3. Draw th e k n ife o f f th e sto n e sm oo th ly. Turn the knife
co n sta n t pressure on th e knife . over and re p e a t th e e n tire process on th e o th e r side.

2. Draw th e k n ife across th e ston e gently.

Sharpening method two

1 . Push th e blade over th e stone's surface, using the 3. Push th e k n ife o f f th e ston e sm oo th ly. Turn the knife
g u id ing hand to keep pre ssure even. over and re p e a t th e e n tire process on th e o th e r side.

2. C ontinue to push th e e n tire le ng th o f th e blade over

th e stone.

ch a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 49
steels a steel should be used both immediately after
sharpening the blade with a stone and also between
sharpenings to keep the edge in alignment. The length
of the steel’s working surface can range from three inches
for a pocket version to over fourteen inches. Hard steel
is the traditional material for steels. Other materials,
such as glass, ceramic, and diamond impregnated sur­
faces, are also available.
Steels come with coarse, medium, and fine grains,
and some are magnetic, which helps the blade maintain
proper alignment and also collects metal shavings. A
guard or hilt between the steel and the handle protects
the user, and a ring on the bottom of the handle can be
used to hang the steel.
When using a steel, hold the knife almost vertically,
with the blade at a 20-degree angle, resting on the inner
side of the steel. Draw the blade along the entire length
of the steel.

MULTISIDED OIL STONE (TRI-STONE)

DIAM OND-IM PREGNATED STONE

CER AM IC STONE

DIAMOND-
IM PREGNATED CER A M IC STEELS
FLAT STEEL HARD STEEL STEEL (BLU E AND WHITE)

TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

Keep the following guidelines in mind:
» Allow yourself plenty of room as you work, and stand
with your weight evenly distributed. Hold the steel with
your thumb and fingers safely behind the guard.
» Draw the blade along the steel so th a t the entire edge
touches the steel. W ork in the same direction on each
side of the blade to keep the edge straight.
» Be sure to keep the pressure even to avoid wearing
away the m etal in the center of the edge. Over tim e,
Steeling method one
1. S tart w ith the knife nearly vertical, with the blade
resting on the steel's inner side.
2. Rotate the w rist holding the knife as the blade
moves along the steel in a downward motion.
Steeling method two
1. Hold the steel in a near-vertical position with the
tip resting on a nonslippery surface. S ta rt with the heel
of the knife against one side of the steel.
2. Maintain light pressure and use an arm action, not a
w rist action, to draw the knife down the shaft of the steel
in a smooth continuous motion.
GA
r+
(D
this could produce a curve in the edge. Keep the knife ^
blade a t a 20 -d e g ree angle to the steel.
» Use a light touch, stroking evenly and consistently.
Lay the blade against the steel; don’t slap it. Listen for
a light ringing sound; a heavy grinding sound indicates
th a t too much pressure is being applied.
» Repeat the stroke on the opposite side of the edge
to properly straighten the edge. If a blade requires
more than five strokes per side on a steel, it probably
should be sharpened on a stone.
J . Keep the blade in contact with the steel until the tip
is drawn o ff the steel. Repeat the process with the blade
resting on the steel’s outer side.
3. Finish the firs t pass by drawing the blade all the way
along the shaft up to and including the tip. Repeat the
entire action, this tim e with the blade against the steel’s
other side.
ch a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T I D E N T IF IC A T IO N 51
 hand tools The object of using a specialized tool numerous to mention here. Particular preparations will
is to make the task at hand easier and more efficient. A dictate to the chef what hand tools are necessary and
number of small hand tools other than knives belong individual chefs will have their own particular likes and
in a knife kit. The potential number and kind are too dislikes.

WIDE PERFORATED
O FFSET S PATU LA

FISH S PATU LA

FRENCH ROLLING PINS

S W IVEL-BLAD ED
PEE LER S

S AU CE W HISK O FFSET PA LETTE KN IVES

B A LL-BE A R IN G
ROLLING PIN

TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
 t r
p

Common Hand Tools p

Q -
NAME(S) CHARACTERISTICS COMMON USES r+

rotary peeler/ Blade m ay be m ou nted h o riz o n ta lly or P eeling skin fro m ve g e ta b le s and
o
swivel-bladed peeler v e rtic a lly on th e handle. Blade is t y p i­ fru its . S w ivel a ctio n accom m odates
cally 2 - 3 inches long c o n to u rs o f in g re d ie n ts in

parisienne scoop/ May have one scoop or tw o o f d iffe re n t S coo ping o u t balls o r ovals fro m veg­
melon bailer sizes, between ’A and 3A inch in d iam e te r e ta b le s and fr u its

kitchen fork A fo rk w ith tw o long tin e s a p p ro xim a te ly T esting doneness o f braised m eats
4 - 6 inches long and veg etab le s; liftin g fin is h e d item s
to th e ca rvin g board o r plate; holding
an ite m being carved in place

palette knife/ F le xib le ro u n d -tip p e d to o l; may be f la t In th e kitc h e n and bakeshop,

metal spatula o r o ffs e t. Blade is be tw ee n 4 and 5 sp re a d in g fillin g s and glazes; placing
inches long and V i- V i inch w ide garnishes; p o rtio n in g ; and a v a rie ty o f
o th e r fu n c tio n s

whisks Balloon w h isks are sphere shaped and Beating, blending, and w h ipp in g
have th in w ire s to in c o rp o ra te a ir when
m aking foa m s. Sauce w h isks are n a r­
ro w e r and fre q u e n tly have th ic k e r w ires

offset spatula Blade is chisel edged, be tw ee n 9 and 10 Turning or lift in g fo o d s on g rills,

inches long and 3 - 4 inches w ide, s e t in a b ro ile rs , and g rid d le s
s h o rt handle

PROPER CARE AND CLEANING OF ROLLING PINS

Rolling pins are made from hard, tight-
grained woods, which prevent fats and
flavorings used in rolled doughs from pen­
etrating the pin. Rolling pins should never be
washed with water. Doing this could ruin the
integrity of the pin by warping or distorting
the grain of the wood. Always use a dry cloth
to wipe the pin clean immediately after use.
Damage to the surface of the pin will relay
imperfections to the dough being rolled.
The two basic types of rolling pins are
the French-style pin and the rod-and-bear-
ing (ball-bearing) pin. The French pin is a
long cylinder of wood rolled over the dough
with the palms of the hands. The second
type is heavier and wider. It has a length­
wise shaft at the center of the wooden cyl­
inder through which runs a metal rod with
two wooden handles at either end.

c h a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T I D E N T IF IC A T IO N 53
 measuring equipment Measurements
are determined in many different ways in a professional
kitchen. This makes it important to have equipment for
liquid and dry volume measures calibrated for both the
U.S. and metric systems, as well as a variety of scales for
accurate measurement by weight.
Among the most common and useful measuring
equipment are the following: measuring pitchers (to
measure liquid volumes); spring, balance beam, and
electronic scales (to weigh ingredients for preparation
and finished items for portion control); instant-read,
candy, and deep-fat thermometers (to measure internal
temperatures); and measuring spoons.

SPRING SCA LE

B A LA N C E B EA M SC A LE

ELECTRONIC
SCA LE

M EASUR IN G SPO O NS
M EASUR ING PITCHERS

C A N D Y/D EEP-FA T
TH ER M O M ETER

INSTANT-READ T H ER M O M ET ER S

PRO BE
TH ER M O M ETER

54 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN


sieves and strainers Sieves and strainers
are used to sift, aerate, and help remove any large impuri­
ties from dry ingredients. They are also used to drain or
puree cooked or raw foods. The delicate mesh of some
strainers is highly vulnerable to damage; never drop these
into a pot sink, where they could be crushed or torn.
The food mill is a type of strainer used to puree soft
foods. A flat, curving blade is rotated over a disk by a
hand-operated crank. Most professional models have
interchangeable disks with holes of varying fineness. The
drum sieve ( tamis) consists of a tinned-steel, nylon, or
stainless-steel screen stretched in an aluminum or wood
frame. A drum sieve is used for sifting or pureeing. The
conical sieve ( chinois) is used for straining and/or
CO NICAL S IEV ES
CHEESECLO TH
sieves and strainers
pureeing food. The openings in the cone can vary in size
from very large to very small. The colander, available in
a variety of sizes, is a stainless-steel or aluminum sieve,
with or without a base, used to strain or drain foods. The
ricer is a device with a pierced hopper in which cooked
food, often potatoes, is placed. A plate on the end of a
lever pushes the food through the holes in the hopper.
Cheesecloth is light, fine-mesh cotton gauze, frequently
used with or in place of a fine conical sieve. It is essen­
tial for straining some sauces. It is also used for making
sachets. Before use, cheesecloth should be rinsed thor­
oughly in hot water and then cold water to remove any
loose fibers. Cheesecloth also clings better to the sides of
bowls, sieves, and so forth when it is wet.
FOOD M ILL
BLA N D ER
RICER
ch a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 55
pots, pans, and molds
Various m aterials and com binations o f m aterials are used
in the con stru ction o f pots, pans, and molds. Because fo rm
and fu n ctio n are closely related, it is im p o rta n t to choose
the pro pe r equipm ent fo r the ta sk a t hand.
Pots m ade o f c op pe r tra n s fe r heat ra p id ly and
evenly b u t because d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith cop pe r w ill a f­
fe c t th e co lo r and co n siste n cy o f m any foo ds, copper
p o ts are g e ne rally lined. (An e xce p tio n is a copper pan
used to cook jam s, je llie s , cho colates, and o th e r high-
sugar item s, o fte n known as a p re se rvin g pan.) G reat
care m ust be take n n o t to scratch linings made o f s o ft
m e ta l such as tin . If th e linin g becom es scratche d or
w ears away, it may be re p a ire d by re tin n in g . Copper also
te n d s to disco lo r quickly; its p ro p e r upkeep requires
s ig n ific a n t tim e and labor.
Cast iron has th e ca p a city to hold heat w e ll and
tra n s m it it very evenly. The m e ta l is som ew hat b r ittle
and m ust be tre a te d c a re fu lly to p re ve n t p ittin g , sca r­
ring, and rustin g. Cast iron coa ted w ith enam el is easier
to clean b u t loses som e o f its n o n stick p ro p e rtie s and
cannot w ith s ta n d as high a te m p e ra tu re as u n tre a te d
ca st iron. S tain le ss ste e l is a re la tiv e ly p o o r c o n d u cto r
PROPER CARE AND CLEANING OF COPPER PANS
This technique for cleaning and shining
copper cookware has been used by chefs
for many years and is still favored because
it is fast, inexpensive, and efficient. Mix
equal parts of flour and salt, and then add
enough distilled white vinegar to form a
paste. The vinegar will react with the cop­
per to erase any discoloration caused by
oxidation and heat. Any other acid, such
as lemon juice, would work equally well,
but white vinegar is typically the most eco­
nomical choice. The salt acts as a scouring
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
o f heat, b u t it is o fte n used because it has o th e r advan­
tages, includ in g easy m aintenance. O th er m etals, such
as alum inum or copper, are o fte n sandw iched w ith s ta in ­
less ste e l to im prove heat conduction. S tain le ss stee l
w ill n o t re a ct w ith foo ds; f o r exam ple, w h ite
sauces w ill rem ain pure w h ite o r ivory.
B lu e-stee l, b la ck-ste e l, p re sse d -ste e l, o r ro lle d -
ste e l pans are all prone to d is c o lo ra tio n b u t tra n s m it
heat very rapidly. These pans are g e ne rally th in and are
o fte n p re fe rre d f o r sau tein g foo ds.
A lum inum is also an e xce lle n t co n d u cto r o f heat.
However, it is a s o ft m e ta l th a t wears down quickly.
When a m e ta l spoon o r w hip is used to s tir a w h ite or
lig h t-c o lo re d sauce, soup, or s to c k in an alum inum pot,
th e fo o d m ay ta ke on a gray color. Alum inum also rea cts
w ith acidic fo o d s. A nodized or tre a te d alum inum ten ds
no t to rea ct, and is one o f the m o st p o pu lar m etals fo r
p o ts used in c o n te m p o ra ry kitchens.
N o n stick coa ting s on pans have some use in p ro fe s ­
sional kitche ns, e sp ecially f o r re s ta u ra n ts th a t o ffe r
fo o d s cooked w ith less f a t and oil. However, the se su r­
face s are n o t as s tu rd y as m e ta l linings.
agent, and the flour provides the binder.
Coat copper surfaces completely with this
paste, then vigorously massage them clean
with a cloth. Clean the interior cooking
surfaces as you would other pots and pans,
with a gentle scouring pad and cleanser.
NOTE: Delicate copper serving dishes
and utensils should be cleaned with a com­
mercial cream or polish without abrasives,
to avoid scratching.
 pots, pans, and molds
Stovetop Pots and Pans
NAME(S) CHARACTERISTICS ‘

stockpot/marmite Large po t, ta lle r tha n it is w ide, w ith s tra ig h t sides; m ay have a s p ig o t

saucepan Has s tra ig h t or s lig h tly fla re d sides and a sin gle long handle

sauce pot S im ila r to a s to c k p o t in shape, a lth ou gh n o t as large; has s tra ig h t sides and tw o
loop handles

rondeau W ide, fa irly shallow p o t w ith tw o loop handles. W hen m ade fro m cast iron, f r e ­
q u e n tly known as a "g risw o ld "; may have a sin gle s h o rt handle ra th e r than tw o loop
handles. A b ra sie r is sim ila r; may be square in ste a d o f round

sauteuse/saute pan S hallow s k ille t w ith slo p in g sides and a sin gle long handle

sautoir/fry pan S hallow s k ille t w ith s tra ig h t sides and a single long handle

omelet pan/ S hallow s k ille t w ith ve ry sh o rt, s lig h tly slo p in g sides; m o st o fte n made o f ro lle d or
crepe pan blue s te e l

bain-marie/double N e stin g p o ts w ith single long handle. "B a in -m a rie " also re fe rs to s ta in le s s -s te e l
boiler co n ta in e rs used to hold fo o d in a stea m ta b le

griddle F la t w ith no sides; may be b u ilt d ire c tly in to th e stove

fish poacher Long, n a rrow lid d e d p o t w ith s tra ig h t sides; includes a p e rfo ra te d rack f o r holding
fis h

steamer P air o f sta cke d p o ts; lid d e d to p p o t has a p e rfo ra te d b o tto m . Also, bam boo basket
w ith t ig h t - f it t in g lid; can s it in a w ok

SEASONING PANS

Chefs who use pans made of cast iron or
rolled steel often season their pans to seal
the pores. Seasoning preserves the cooking
surface and essentially creates a nonstick
coating. To season a pan, pour enough
cooking oil into the pan to evenly coat the
bottom to a depth of about Va in/6 mm.
Place the pan in a 3OO0F/i49°C oven for
one hour. Remove the pan from the oven
and let it cool. Wipe away any excess oil
with paper towels. Repeat the procedure
every so often to renew the seal. To clean a
seasoned pan, use a bundle of paper towels
to scour salt over the surface of the pan un­
til the food particles have been removed.

c h a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 57
 pots and pans for stovetop cooking
Pots and pans used on the stovetop may be made from
a variety of materials, but they must be able to with­
stand direct heat from a flame. A poorly produced pot
will have weak spots and will warp. Pans may be made
of many different materials, and selection in large part
weighs on preference. Heat conductivity and evenness
of heat transfer are important to consider as well as the
maintenance of the pan; for example, copper is great
for conductivity but requires significant time and labor
for proper upkeep. Nonstick coatings may be useful for
some applications, but these surfaces are not as sturdy
as metal, so another choice for nonstick cookery would
be cast iron. Blue-steel and black-steel, pressed-steel,
or rolled-steel pans are often preferred for sauteing be­
cause of their quick response to changes in temperature.
When choosing a pot or pan, consider the following
information:
l. Choose a size appropriate to the food being cooked.
Be familiar with the capacity of various pots, pans, and
molds. If too many pieces of meat are crowded into a
sauteuse, for instance, the food will not brown properly.

S A U CE POT WITH LID

RONDEAU

S A U CEPAN WITH LID

NONSTICK S AU TEU SE

TWO NESTED STAIN LESS-

STEEL SAU T EU SE S

58 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN


If the sauteuse is too large, however, the fond (Maillard
drippings from the meat) could scorch. If a small fish is
poached in a large pot, the cuisson (cooking liquid) will
not have the proper intensity of flavor.
2. Choose material appropriate to the cooking tech­
nique. Experience has shown, and science has verified,
that certain cooking techniques are more successful
when used with certain materials. For instance, sauteed
foods require pans that transmit heat quickly and are sen­
sitive to temperature changes. Braises, on the other hand,
require long, fairly gentle cooking; it is more important
STOCKPOT WITH LID
FISH PO ACHER
SAUTOIR WITH LID
pots and pans for stovetop cooking
that the pot transmit heat evenly and hold it well than
respond rapidly to changes in heat.
3. Use proper handling, cleaning, and storing tech­
niques. Avoid subjecting pots to heat extremes and rapid
changes in temperature (e.g., placing a smoking-hot pot
into a sinkful of water) because some materials are prone
to warping. Other materials may chip or even crack if al­
lowed to sit over heat when they are empty or if they are
handled roughly. Casseroles or molds made of enameled
cast iron or steel are especially vulnerable.
BAM BO O S T EA M ER
c h a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T I D E N T IF IC A T IO N 59
pans for oven cooking Pans used in
ovens are produced from the same basic materials used
to make stovetop pots and pans. Glazed and unglazed
earthenware, glass, and ceramics are also used. The heat
of the oven is less intense than that of a burner, making
it possible to use these more delicate materials without
risk of cracking or shattering. Metal pans are available
in several gauges (gauge refers to the thickness of the
metal). Heavy-gauge pans are usually preferred because
STACKED FROM BOTTOM TO TOP:
M UFFIN TIN, LO OSE-BOTTOM ED TART PAN,
C A K E PANS
B U N D TPA N
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
they transfer heat more evenly. Regarding heat conduc­
tivity, some metals heat faster than others. Aluminum
heats quickly but is susceptible to burning food if it is a
light gauge. On the other hand, stainless steel is a poor
conductor of heat but works best for baking in a lighter
gauge. Tin is a good conductor of heat, while materials
such as glass, ceramic, and earthenware hold heat well
but transfer it poorly.
SPRIN G FO RM PAN
 pots and pans for oven coo
ROASTING PAN

LO AF PAN

PATE EN CROUTE MOLD

P U L LM A N LO A F PAN

GRATIN DISHES. RA M EK IN S
(NESTED IN THE GRATIN DISH)

F LE X IB LE SILICONE MOLD

ch a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T I D E N T IF IC A T IO N 6l
 Oven Pans and Molds
1 NAME(S) CHARACTERISTICS
roasting pan R e cta ng ula r pan w ith m ed iu m -h ig h sides;
com es in va rio u s sizes
sheet pan V ery sha llo w re c ta n g u la r pan; m ay be fu ll
or h a lf size
hotel pan/ R e cta ng ula r pans, a va ila ble in a w ide range
steam table pan/ o f sizes. C hafing dishes and h o te l pans are
chafing dish usually o f sta n d a rd sizes, so m o st o f the m
w ill f i t to g e th e r p ro p e rly
pate mold Deep re c ta n g u la r m e ta l m old, usually has
hinged sides to fa c ilita te rem oval o f the
pate. S pecial shapes may be ava ila ble
terrine mold M ay be re c ta n g u la r or oval, w ith a lid.
T ra d itio n a lly e a rth en w are , may also be
enam eled cast iron
gratin dish S hallow oval baking dish; ceram ic, enam ­
eled cast iron, o r enam eled ste e l
ramekin Round, s tra ig h t-s id e d ceram ic dish; comes
in variou s sizes
timbale mold Sm all m e ta l o r ceram ic m old
flexible silicone mold A vaila ble in d iffe r e n t sizes and shapes
cake pan S tra ig h t sided; a va ila ble in va rio u s sizes
and shapes. Can be used in a w a te r bath
springform pan S im ila r to cake pan, b u t w ith sep a ra te b o t­
to m . Sides have s p rin g to release f o r easy
rem oval
loose-bottomed S hallow pan w ith rem o vab le b o tto m . Sides
tart pan may be flu te d or s tra ig h t, and are g e n e r­
a lly s h o rte r tha n th o se o f pie pans. M ay be
round, rectan gu lar, or square
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
COMMON USES
R o astin g or baking
Baking; storag e
O ccasionally f o r p re p a rin g fo o d s
b u t m ore o fte n to hold cooked
fo o d s in stea m ta b le s, h o t boxes,
o r e le c tric o r gas steam ers. F re ­
q u e n tly used to hold m eats being
m a rin a te d and f o r re frig e ra te d
fo o d storag e
C ooking pate en cro u te
C ooking o r m o ld in g te rrin e s
Baking g ra tin s
Baking s o u ffle s; som etim es fo r
m olding fro ze n s o u ffle s; sauce cups;
baked custard; baked or chilled pud­
dings; g ra tins; and a v a rie ty o f o th e r
uses
M o ld in g in d ivid u a l p o rtio n s o f
fo o d s
F orm ing fo o d s in to a v a rie ty o f
shapes; can be used a t high te m ­
p e ra tu re s and f o r fre e z in g
Baking cakes, cheesecakes, and
som e ro lls
Baking cakes
B aking ta rts
 pots, pans, and molds
NAME(S) CHARACTERISTICS COMMON USES

pie pan Round pan w ith fla re d sides; d e e p e r than Baking pies and quiches
t a r t pan; a va ila ble in a v a rie ty o f sizes

loaf pan Deep pan, usually rectan gu lar. Sides may Baking breads and m eatloaves
be s tra ig h t o r s lig h tly fla re d

Pullman loaf pan R e cta ng ula r pan w ith lid; pro du ces f la t- B aking s p e c ia lty bread
to p p e d loaves
'
muffin tin Pan w ith sm all, round de pre ssion s, w hich B aking m u ffin s and cupcakes
com e in d iffe re n t sizes

Bundt pan Deep, round pan w ith tu b e in th e center. C re a tin g a s p e c ific shape o f cake,
M ay have o rn a te shapes in clu d in g c h iffo n and pound cakes

tube pan Deep, round pan w ith s tra ig h t sides and B aking angel fo o d cake, pound
tu b e in th e center. Some are s im ila r to cakes, o r c h iffo n cakes
s p rin g fo rm pans, w ith rem o vab le sides

ch a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T I D E N T IF IC A T IO N 63
large equipment
When working with large equipment, safety precautions
must be observed and proper maintenance and cleaning
done consistently.
1. Obtain proper instruction in the machine’s safe
operation.
2. First turn o ff and then unplug electrical equipment
before assembling it or breaking it down.
3. Use all safety features: Be sure that lids are secure,
hand guards are used, and the machine is stable.
4. Clean and sanitize the equipment thoroughly a fter
each use.
5. Be sure that all pieces of equipment are properly re­
assembled and left unplugged a fte r each use.
6. Report any problems or malfunctions promptly, and
alert coworkers to the problem.
KE T TL ES A N D S T E A M E R S
Kettles and steamers enable a chef to prepare large
amounts of food efficiently, since the heat is applied
over a much larger area than is possible when a single
burner is used. Cooking times are often shorter than
when using the stovetop.
STEAM-JACKETED KETTLE This freestanding
or tabletop ke ttle circulates steam through the
double-sided walls, providing even heat. Units
vary; they may tilt, may be insulated, and may have
spigots or lids. Available in a range of sizes, these
kettles are excellent fo r producing stocks, soups,
and sauces.
TILTING KETTLE This large, relatively shallow
freestanding unit (also known as a Swiss brasier,
tiltin g skillet, or tiltin g fry pan) is used fo r braising,
stewing, and sauteing large quantities of meats or
vegetables at one tim e. M ost tiltin g kettles have
lids, allowing fo r steaming as well.
PRESSURE STEAMER W ater is heated under
pressure in a sealed com partm ent, allowing it
to reach tem peratures above the boiling point,
2 1 2 °F /1 0 0 °C . Cooking tim e is controlled by auto­
matic tim ers, which open the exhaust valves at the
end.
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
CONVECTION STEAMER Steam is generated in a
boiler, then piped to the cooking chamber, where
it is vented over the food. Pressure does not build
up in the unit; it is continuously exhausted, which
means the door may be opened at any tim e w ithout
danger of scalding or burning.
DEEP-FAT FRYER This consists of a gas or electric
heating elem ent and a large stainless-steel res­
ervoir th a t holds the fa t. A th erm ostat allows the
user to control the tem perature of the fat. S tain­
less-steel w ire mesh baskets are used to lower and
lift foods into and out of the fat.
R AN GE S A N D OVENS
The stovetop is known as the range; the oven is usually
below the range. However, there are a number of varia­
tions on this standard arrangement. Gas or electric
ranges are available in many sizes and with d ifferen t
combinations of open burners, flatto ps (not to be con­
fused with griddle units), and ring tops. Open burners
and ring tops supply direct heat, which is easy to change
and control. Flattops provide indirect heat, which is
more even and less intense than direct heat. Foods th at
require long, slow cooking, such as stocks, are more
effectively cooked on a flatto p. Small units known as
candy stoves or stockpot ranges have rings of gas jets
or removable rings under a flatto p, allowing for excel­
lent heat control. Ovens cook foods by surrounding them
with hot air, a gentler and more even source of heat than
the direct heat of a burner.
OPEN-BURNER RANGE This type of range has
individual g rate-style burners th at allow fo r easy
adjustm ent of heat.
FLATTOP RANGE This consists of a thick plate of
cast iron or steel set over the heat source. Flattops
give relatively even and consistent heat but do not
allow fo r quick adjustm ents of tem perature.
RING-TOP RANGE This is a fla tto p with plates th at
can be removed to widen the opening, supplying
more or less heat.
INDUCTION COOKTOP This relies on the magnetic
attractio n between the cooktop and steel or cast
iron in the pan to generate heat. The cooktop itself
remains cool. Reaction tim e is significantly fas ter

than fo r traditional burners. Pans containing cop­
per or aluminum may not be used.
CONVECTION OVEN Fans force hot air to circulate
around the food, cooking it evenly and quickly.
Some convection ovens have the capacity to intro ­
duce moisture.
C O NVEN TIO NAL/DECK OVEN The heat source is
located on the bottom , underneath the deck (floor)
of the oven. Heat is conducted through the deck
to the cavity. Conventional ovens can be located
below a range top or as separate shelves arranged
one above another. The la tte r are known as deck
ovens, and the food is placed directly on the deck
instead of on a wire rack. Deck ovens normally
consist of two to four decks, although single-deck
models are available.
COMBI OVEN This piece of equipment, powered by
either gas or electricity, is a combination steam er
and convection oven. It can be used in steam mode,
hot-air convection mode, or h eat/s te am (combi)
mode.
MICROWAVE OVEN This oven uses ele ctricity to
generate microwave radiation, which cooks or re ­
heats foods very quickly. Some models double as
convection ovens.
GR ID DL E S AND G R I L L S
Two other range/oven features, the griddle and the
grill, are part of the traditional commercial foodservice
setup.
GRIDDLE Sim ilar to a fla tto p range, a griddle has a
heat source located beneath a thick plate of metal,
generally cast iron or steel. The food is cooked di­
rectly on the griddle surface.
G R ILL/B R O ILE R /S A LA M A N D E R In a grill, the
heat source is located below a rack; in a broiler or
salamander, the heat source is above. Some units
have adjustable racks th a t allow the food to be
raised or lowered to control cooking speed. Some
grills burn wood, charcoal, or both, but units in
restaurants are o ften either gas or electric fired,
with ceramic "rocks” th at create a bed of coals to
produce the e ffe c t of a charcoal grill. Broilers radi­
ate an intense heat from above and can be found
P
i -i
as a setting in a gas or electric oven. If the broiler
QTQ
is contained as a separate unit, it is known as a
ft)
salamander and is used prim arily to finish or glaze n>
foods.
£
i—*■
SMOKERS
13
A true smoker will tre a t foods with smoke and can be
operated at either cool or hot tem peratures. Smokers
rD
generally have racks or hooks th at allow foods to smoke
evenly.
R EF R I G E R A T I O N E Q U I P M E N T
Maintaining adequate refrigerated storage is crucial to
any foodservice operation; therefore, the menu and the
storage must be evaluated and coordinated. All units
should be maintained property, which means regular and
thorough cleaning.
W ALK-IN This is the largest style of refrigeration
unit and usually has shelves arranged around the
walls. It is possible to zone a walk-in to maintain
appropriate tem perature and humidity levels for
storing various foods. Some walk-ins are large
enough to accomm odate rolling carts fo r addi­
tional storage. Some have pass-through or reach-in
doors to fa c ilita te access to frequ en tly required
items. W alk-ins may be situated in the kitchen or
outside the facility.
REACH-IN A reach-in may be a single unit or part
of a bank of units, available in many sizes. Units
w ith pass-through doors are especially helpful for
the pantry area, where cold items can be retrieved
by the w ait s ta ff as needed.
O N-SITE REFRIGERATION R efrigerated drawers
or undercounter reach-ins allow ingredients to be
held on the line at the proper tem perature.
PORTABLE REFRIGERATION A refrigerated cart
can be placed as needed in the kitchen.
DISPLAY REFRIGERATION Display cases are gen­
erally used in the dining room fo r desserts, salads,
or salad bars.
Chapter 5 » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 65
grinding, slicing, mixing, and pureeing equipment
Grinders, slicers, and pureeing equipment all have the potential to be extremely
dangerous. As these tools are essential for a number of operations, all chefs
should be able to use them with confidence.

FOOD PRO CESSO R

yudhacookbook.com

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
 grinding, slicing, mixing, and pureeing equipment
IMM ERSION BLEN D ER

BLENDER

STANDING M IXER
AND ATTACHM ENTS

c h a p t e r s » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 67
Grinding, Slicing, Mixing, and Pureeing Equipment
NAME(S) CHARACTERISTICS COMMON USES

blender C o nsists o f a base th a t houses th e m o­ E xce lle n t f o r pureeing, liq u e fyin g ,

t o r and a rem o vab le lid d e d ja r w ith a and e m u ls ify in g fo o d s
p ro p e lle r-lik e blade in its b o tto m . Speed
s e ttin g s f o r m o to r are in base. Jars
made o f sta in le ss stee l, p la stic, o r glass;
a va ila ble in several cap a citie s

food processor M o to r housed in base, s e p a ra te ly fro m G rinding, pureeing, blending, em u l­

rem o vab le bowl, blade, and lid. M ay have sify in g , crushing, and kneading. W ith
e xtra d isks f o r spe cia lize d c u ttin g special disks: slicing, ju lie nn ing , and
shre dd ing

immersion blender/
hand blender/stick
blender/burr mixer
Long, sle n d e r one-piece m achine; like Pureeing, liq u e fy in g , and e m u ls ify in g
an in v e rte d blender. Top houses m o­ large ba tches o f fo o d d ire c tly in the
to r, w hich ge n e ra lly runs a t only one co o kin g vessel
speed. P la stic handle w ith o n /o ff sw itch
exte n d s fro m to p o f housing. S ta in le ss-
s te e l d riv e s h a ft exte n d s fro m m o to r and
ends w ith blade, w hich is im m e rsed in
th e fo o d

vertical chopping M o to r in base is p e rm a n e n tly a tta ch e d G rinding, w h ip p in g em u lsifyin g ,

machine (VCM) to bow l w ith in te g ra l blades. As a s a fe ty blending, crushing large q u a n titie s
p re ca u tio n , hinged lid m ust be locked in o f fo o d
place b e fo re u n it w ill op e ra te

food chopper/ Food is placed in a ro ta tin g bow l th a t C hopping large q u a n titie s o f foo d;
buffalo chopper passes under a hood, w h ere blades chop w ith special disks: slicin g or g ra tin g
th e fo o d . Some have hoppers or fee d
tu b e s and in te rch a n g e a b le disks. A v a il­
able in flo o r and ta b le to p m odels

food sheer/ C a rrie r moves fo o d back and fo r th S licin g fo o d s in even thickn esse s
meat slicer ag ainst c irc u la r blade, g e n e ra lly made o f
carbon ste e l. Guard pro vid es s a fe ty

mandoline Blades o f high -carbo n stee l. Levers ad­ S licing, ju lie n n in g , c u ttin g g a u fr e tte s
ju s t blades to achieve cu t and th ickn e ss and b a to n n e ts
de sire d. Guard p ro v id e s s a fe ty

stand mixer E le c tric m achine has large d e tacha ble M ixing, be atin g, w h ipp in g, kneading
bow l o f v a ryin g ca p a citie s (5 -q u a rt,
1 0 -q u a rt, 2 0 -q u a rt, 4 0 -q u a rt, etc.). A t ­
ta ch m e n ts: whip, paddle, dough hook.
Bow l is locked in place and a tta c h m e n t
ro ta te s th ro u g h b a tte r o r dough

meat grinder M ay be fre e s ta n d in g m achine o r a tta c h ­ G rinding; s tu ffin g sausage casings

m e n t f o r a sta n d in g m ixer. Should have (w ith a tta c h m e n t)
disks o f va ry in g sizes; in general w ill
have a fe e d tra y and a pusher

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

meat, poultry,
and game
identification
For most restaurants, the purchase, preparation, and service of meats is one of
the most expensive areas of the business— but also one of the most potentially
profitable. In order to get the most value out of the meats purchased, it is imp
to understand how to select the right cut for a particular cooking method.

CHAPTER 6
meat basics
The m eat, p o u ltry , and game cuts th a t a re s ta u ra n t
should buy w ill depend upon th e na ture o f the p a rtic u la r
op era tion. A re s ta u ra n t fe a tu rin g p re d o m in a n tly a la
m in ute p re p a ra tio n s — e sp e cia lly one w ith a p re p o n d e r­
ance o f g rille d or sauteed ite m s — w ill need to purchase
e x tre m e ly te n d e r (and m ore expensive) cuts. A re s ta u ­
ran t th a t uses a v a rie ty o f tech niq ue s may be able to use
some le ss-te n d e r c u ts — fo r exam ple, th e veal shank in a
braise such as osso buco.
M ea ts can be purchased in a num ber o f fo rm s and at
va ryin g degrees o f readiness to cook. The ch e f should
con sid er several fa c to rs when de cid ing w h a t ty p e o f
m ea t to buy. S torage cap acity, th e e q u ip m e n t req uire d
to pre pa re a menu item , th e kitch e n s t a f fs a b ility to
fa b ric a te cuts, and th e volum e o f m ea t re q u ire d m ust
all be take n in to con sid e ra tio n . Once th is in fo rm a tio n
is evaluated, th e ch e f can d e te rm in e w h e th e r it is m ore
econom ical to purchase large pieces, such as w hole legs
o f veal, or p re fa b ric a te d m eats, such as veal already cut
in to a to p round, o r p re c u t scaloppini.
M e a ts should be checked fo r w holesom eness and
freshness. Cut surface s should appear m o ist, b u t not
shiny. The m eat should have a good color, which varies
by ty p e as w ell as by cut. The m ea t should also sm ell ap­
pealing. Packaged m eats should arrive w ith th e packag­
ing in ta c t w ith no pu ncture s or tea rs.
The ta b le s accom panying th e fo llo w in g se ctio n s
con tain key pieces o f in fo rm a tio n ab ou t beef, veal, pork,
and lamb, ad ap te d fro m The M e a t Buyer's Guide by the
N o rth A m erican M e a t P rocessors A sso cia tio n (NAMP),
includ in g ite m num bers as assigned by th e N AM P and
an average range in size f o r a cut. A p p ro p ria te cooking
m ethods fo r v ariou s cuts have also been included.
STORAGE
M eats, p o u ltry , and game should be w rapped and sto re d
under re frig e ra tio n . W hen possible, th e y should be held
in a separate unit, o r a t le a st in a sep a ra te p a rt o f the
cooler. They should always be placed on tra y s to pre ven t
the m fro m d rip p in g o n to o th e r fo o d s o r th e flo o r.
The ch e f should sep ara te d iffe re n t kinds o f m eats;
f o r exam ple, p o u ltry should n o t com e in to co n ta c t
w ith beef, or p o rk p ro d u c ts in to c o n ta c t w ith any o th e r
m eats. This w ill p re ve n t cross co n ta m in a tio n .
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
V acuum -packed m eats can be sto re d d ire c tly in the
package, as long as it has n o t been pu ncture d or ripped.
Once unw rapped, m eats should be rew rapped in a ir-p e r­
m eable paper, such as butcher's paper, because a irtig h t
c o n ta in e rs p ro m o te b a c te ria l g ro w th th a t could re s u lt in
spoilage or co n ta m in a tio n .
V a rie ty m eats, p o u ltry , and uncured po rk pro du cts,
w hich have s h o rt s h e lf lives, should be cooked as soon
as po ssib le a fte r th e y are received. M e a t sto re d a t the
p ro p e r te m p e ra tu re and under o p tim a l co n d itio n s can
be held f o r several days w ith o u t no tice a b le loss o f qual­
ity. M e a t can also be fro z e n f o r longer storage.
» REFRIGERATED: 28 ° TO B 2 °F /-2 °T O 0°C
» FROZEN: 0° TO 2 0 ° F /- 1 8 ° TO -7°C
I N S P EC TI ON AND GR AD IN G
G overnm ent in sp e ctio n o f all m eats is m andatory.
Insp ection s are re q u ire d a t various tim e s: a t th e slaugh­
te rh o u se (a n te m o rte m ) and again a fte r b u tch e rin g
(po stm o rte m ). This is done to ensure th a t th e anim al is
fre e fro m disease and th a t th e m ea t is w holesom e and
f i t f o r human con sum p tion. Insp ection is a service paid
fo r by ta x dollars.
Some s ta te s have re linq uished the re s p o n s ib ility fo r
in sp e ctin g m eats to fe d e ra l in spe cto rs. Those sta te s
th a t s till a d m in is te r th e ir own in sp e ctio n s o f m eat
m ust at le a st m eet, if n o t exceed, the acce pted fe d e ra l
standards.
Q u a lity grading, however, is n o t m andatory. The
U.S. D e p a rtm e n t o f A g ric u ltu re (USDA) has developed
s p e c ific sta n d a rd s to assign grades to m eats and tra in s
graders. The packer may, however, choose n o t to hire a
USDA g ra de r and may fo rg o g ra ding in fa v o r o f the use
o f an in-house brand name instead. The costs involved
in gra ding m ea ts are absorbed by th e in dividu al m eat
packer, n o t th e taxp ayer, since th is process is volun ta ry.
Depending upon th e p a rtic u la r animal, th e grader w ill
consider overall carcass shape, ra tio o f fa t to lean, ra tio
o f m eat to bone, color, and m arbling o f lean flesh. The
grade placed on a p a rticu la r carcass is then applied to all
the cuts fro m th a t animal. In beef, only a sm all percentage
o f m eats produced is graded prim e. Choice and select
are m ore o fte n available. Grades lower than select are

generally used fo r processed m eat and are o f no pra ctical
im portance to the re sta u ra n t (or re ta il) industry.
Some m eats may also receive yie ld grades. This
grade is o f th e g re a te s t s ig n ifica n ce to w holesalers. It
in dica tes th e am o un t o f salable m eat in re la tio n to the
to ta l w e ig h t o f th e carcass. B utch ers re fe r to th is as
"cu ta b ility." In o th e r w ords, it is a m easure o f th e yie ld o f
edible m eat fro m each pound o f th e carcass.
M A R K E T F O R M S OF MEAT
A fte r sla ug hterin g, in spe ction, and grading, the anim al
carcass is cu t in to m anageable pieces. Sides are p re ­
pared by m aking a cu t down th e length o f th e backbone.
Each side is cu t in to tw o pieces to make qu a rte rs, d iv id ­
ing th e sides betw een s p e c ific ve rte b ra e . Saddles are
made by c u ttin g th e anim al across th e belly, again a t a
s p e c ifie d p o in t. The exa ct stan dard s f o r in d ivid u a l an i­
mal typ e s govern w here th e carcass is to be divided.
The ne xt ste p is to cu t th e anim al in to w h a t are re ­
fe rre d to as p rim a l cuts. There are u n ifo rm stan dard s fo r
beef, veal, pork, and lam b prim als. These large cuts are
the n fu rth e r broken down in to sub prim a ls. S ubprim als
are g e ne rally trim m e d and packed as fo o d se rvice , value
added, o r HRI (H o te l, R estaurant, and In s titu tio n ) cuts.
There m ay be even m ore fa b ric a tio n o r b u tch e rin g done
in o rd e r to pre pa re steaks, chops, roa sts, o r ground
m eat. These cuts are re fe rre d to as p o rtio n c o n tro l cuts.
The am o un t o f b u tc h e rin g done in packing plan ts
has increased over th e pa st several years. W hile it is s till
possible to purchase hanging m eat, m o st o p e ra tio n s w ill
buy w h a t is re fe rre d to as boxed m eat. This in dica tes
th a t th e m eat has been fa b ric a te d to a s p e c ific p o in t
(prim al, subprim al, o r re ta il cut), packed in Cryovac,
boxed, and shipped f o r sale to purveyors, butchers,
chain re ta il o u tle ts , and so fo rth .
KOSHER MEATS
Kosher m eats are s p e cia lly sla ug htered , bled, and
fa b ric a te d in o rd e r to com p ly w ith re lig io u s d ie ta ry
laws. In th is cou ntry, only b e e f and veal fo re q u a rte rs ,
c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
meat basics
p o u ltry , and som e game are cu s to m a rily used fo r kosher
p re p a ra tio n s. Kosher m eats are bu tchere d fro m ani­
m als s la u g h te re d by a shohet, o r by a spe cia lly train ed
rabbi. The anim al m ust be k ille d w ith a single s tro k e o f a
kn ife , the n fu lly bled. A ll th e veins and a rte rie s m ust be
rem oved fro m th e m eat. This process w ould e sse n tia lly
m u tila te th e fle s h o f loins and legs o f b e e f and veal;
th e re fo re , th e se are g e n e ra lly n o t sold as kosher.
OF F AL
O ffa l can b e s t be de scrib ed as th e ed ib le by-p ro d u cts
o f a m ea t carcass. Exam ples include organ m eats such
as th e liver, kidney, he art, brain, trip e , ce rta in glands,
and in te s tin a l tra c ts . In a d d itio n , th e cheeks, ta il, and
ton gue are p a rt o f th e o ffa l cate gory. O ffa l is generally
inexpensive b u t re q u ire s some s k ill to cook properly.
Organ m eats are com posed o f fib e rs th a t are d iffe re n t
fro m th o se o f lean m uscle. M em branes, blood vessels,
and con ne ctive tissu e s need to be rem oved fro m livers
and kidneys. Organ m eats, such as th e live r and kidneys,
are high in iron, w hich tra n s la te s in to rich flavo r. The ta il
has some m ea t and a lo t o f collagen and is ty p ic a lly used
fo r rich braises.
In m any cu ltu re s, o ffa l is considered a delicacy.
Some o ffa l is con sid ered th e e p ito m e o f high cuisine.
An exam ple w ould be th e fa tte n e d duck o r goose liver
known as fo ie gras. This m ea t has a con sisten cy th a t
resem bles b u tte r and a d is tin c tiv e flavo r. Foie gras is
an exce p tio n to th e general rule th a t organ m eats are
inexpensive and can com m and a high price. A n o th e r ex­
ce p tio n to th is rule is th e sw e etbre ad, or thym us gland,
o f veal. W hen p ro p e rly prepared, th is s o ft-s tru c tu re d
gland can be eaten w ith a fo rk . S w e etbre ad s are in high
dem and and w a rra n t a high cost.
Organ m ea ts te n d to be highly perishable and th e re ­
fo re m ust be used fre sh , w ith in a w eek o f slaughter, or
purchased fro ze n . Be sure to keep fro z e n ite m s below
32 ° and -4 ° F /0 ° and -1 8 °C to ensure th e fo rm a tio n o f
sm all ice c ry s ta ls and m inim ize damage.
71
beef Beef is essential to the foodservice industry,
especially in the United States. A significant source of
protein, beef is featured in an array of classic and con­
temporary dishes. This expensive product demands spe­
cial care and training. Utilizing as much of each cut to
maximize the yield is an important practice to follow.
Cattle used for the beef industry are typically steers
(castrated males) over one year old and heifers (female
cows) not required for breeding. The older the bovine,
the tougher the meat. Specialty beef such as Kobe beef
from Japan, Limousin beef from France, and Certified
Angus, natural, organic, and dry-aged beef from the
United States are also available.
The eight grades of beef, in order of highest to low­
est quality, are as follows: Prime, Choice, Select, Stan­
dard, Commercial, Utility, Cutter, and Canner. Prime is
usually reserved for restaurants and butcher shops.

These cuts are from the prim al cut known as the round: 1. hind shank, 2. shank
stew, 3. top round, 4. to p round tie d as a roast, 5. marrow bones

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 c r
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rc>

i- h

These cuts are from the prim al cut known as the loin: 1. short loin, 2. porterhouse steak cut
from the sho rt loin, 3. top sirloin bu tt, 4. flan k steak, 5. tenderloin PSMO, 6. trim m ed ten der­
loin, 7. tenderloin steaks, 8. boneless s trip loin, 9. po rtio n -cu t s trip loin steaks

ch a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E I D E N T IF IC A T IO N 73

 beef, continued

These cuts are from the prim al cut known as the rib: 1. short loin, 2. po rtion -cut short ribs,
3, rib eye lip on, 4. po rtion -cut rib steaks

74 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 c r
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These cuts are from the primal cut known as the chuck: 1. trim m ed shoulder clod, 2. top blade, 3. shoulder
stew, 4. chuck roll, 5. brisket, 6. s k irt steak, 7. trim m ed s k irt steak, 8. tripe , 9. oxtail

ch a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 75

Bovine Beef Primal Cuts
SUBPRIMAL COMMON COOKING METHODS COMMON CULINARYUSES |

round primal cut

SHANK Braising, s te w in g O fte n pre p a re d ground

HEEL . B raising, s te w in g O fte n bra ise d or stew ed; prepa red as

goulash

KNUCKLE Braising, ro a s tin g O fte n p re pa red as kabobs

TOP ROUND R oasting, pan fry in g , b ro ilin g O fte n pre p a re d as a roulade,

bra cio le, or London b ro il

EYE ROUND R oasting, bra isin g P ot ro a ste d ; oven ro a s te d and sliced

th in ; carpaccio; fon due

BOTTOM ROUND B raising O fte n p re pa red as a p o t ro a st or

sau erb raten

loin primal cut

SIRLOIN (TOP SIRLOIN R oasting, b ro ilin g , g rillin g O fte n p re pa red as stea ks
BUTT)

TENDERLOIN, PSMO R oasting, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g O fte n p re p a re d as Chateaubriand,

PORTION-CUT to u rn e d o s, m edallions, or f ile t
m ignon

FLANK STEAK B roilin g, g rillin g , bra isin g O fte n p re pa red as London b ro il, b u t-
te r flie d , o r s tu ffe d

STRIP LOIN, 175 R oasting, b ro ilin g , g rillin g O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t or stea ks

BONE-IN (SHELL); 180 (New York s trip steak)
BONELESS

SHORT LOIN B roilin g, g rillin g O fte n p re pa red as p o rte rh o u se or

T -bone ste a k

rib primal cut

BONE-IN EXPORT RIB, R oasting, g rillin g O fte n pre p a re d as prim e rib roa st,
109D E X P O R T STYLE bone-in rib stea k, or cow boy stea k

BONELESS LIP-ON RIB, R oasting, g rillin g , sau tein g O fte n pre p a re d boneless as rib eye
112A ro a s t o r D elm onico stea ks

SHORT RIBS B raising O fte n braised, s lo w -ro a ste d , or

barbecued

chuck primal cut

SQUARE-CUT CHUCK B raising, ste w in g O fte n pre p a re d as chuck ro a s t or
ground

SHOULDER CLOD Braising, ro a stin g , stew ing , g rillin g O fte n p re pa red as ste a ks or ground

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
 c r
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5UBPRIMAL COMMON COOKING METHODS COMMON CULINARY USES !

market forms
PLATE B raising O fte n pre p a re d as s h o rt ribs

BRISKET B raising O fte n pre p a re d corned and as

p a stra m i

FORESHANK Braising, ste w in g O fte n p re pa red ground

variety meats (offal)

LIVER S au tein g O fte n p re p a re d as fo rc e m e a t

TRIPE B raising or slow sim m e rin g in a b ro th or S lo w -b ra ise d or stew ed

red sauce

KIDNEYS S te w in g O fte n baked in to a pie

TONGUE S im m e ring O fte n pre p a re d sm oked

OXTAILS Braising, ste w in g O fte n slow braised as a stew , soup,

or ragoO t

INTESTINES D epends on th e p re p a ra tio n Used as casing f o r sausage

HEART B raising, ste w in g O fte n pre p a re d in ste w or added to

dishes in chopped fo rm

BLOOD Depends on th e p re p a ra tio n Used to p re p a re coa gu late sausages

loin

round sirloin sho rt loin rib chuck

l 1 1 1 1

foreshank

Beef skeletal structure

c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POULTRY, A N D G A M E I D E N T IF IC A T IO N 77
Beef HRI Cuts
WEIGHT RANGE
ITEM PRODUCT NAME
(POUNDS)

103 Rib (prim al) 3 5 -4 0

109 Rib, ro a s t-re a d y 1 8 -2 2

109D Rib, ro a s t-re a d y , cover o ff, s h o rt-c u t 1 6 -1 8

11 2 Rib, rib eye ro ll 8 -1 0

11 2 A Rib, rib eye ro ll, lip on 1 1 -1 3

113 Chuck, sq u a re -c u t (prim al) 7 9 -1 0 6

11 4 Chuck, sh o u ld e r clod 1 5 -2 1

11 6A Chuck, chuck ro ll, tie d 1 5 -2 1

120 B riske t, boneless, de ckle o f f 1 0 -1 2

121C P late, s k irt s te a k (diaphragm ), o u te r 2 and up

121D P late, s k irt stea k, inner 3 and up

123 Rib, s h o rt ribs 3 -5

1 2 3B Rib, s h o rt ribs, trim m e d A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d

166B Round, rum p and shank p a rtia lly rem oved, handle on (steam sh ip ) 5 2 -7 0

167 Round, knuckle 9 -1 3

1 6 7A Round, knuckle, peeled 8 -1 2

1 69 Round, to p (inside) 1 7 -2 3

1 70 Round, b o tto m (gooseneck) 2 3 -3 1

170A Round, b o tto m (gooseneck), heel o u t 2 0 -2 8

17 1B Round, b o tto m , o u ts id e round f la t 1 0 -1 6

171C Round, eye o f round 3 and up

172 Loin, fu ll loin, trim m e d (prim al) 5 0 -7 0

174 Loin, s h o rt loin, s h o rt-c u t 2 2 -2 6

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
 c r
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WEIGHT RANGE
PRODUCT NAME
(POUNDS)

175 Loin, s trip loin, bone-in 1 8 -2 0

180 Loin, s trip loin, boneless 7 -1 1

181 Loin, s irlo in 1 9 -2 8

18 4 Loin, to p s irlo in b u tt, boneless 1 2 -1 4

185A Loin, b o tto m s irlo in b u tt, fla p , boneless 3 and up

185B Loin, b o tto m s irlo in b u tt, ba ll tip , boneless 3 and up

185D Loin, b o tto m s irlo in b u tt, tr i- t ip , boneless, d e fa tte d 3 and up

189 Loin, fu ll te n d e rlo in -10

189A Loin, fu ll te n d e rlo in , side m uscle on, d e fa tte d 5 -6

190 Loin, fu ll te n d e rlo in , side m uscle o ff, d e fa tte d 3 -4

190A Loin, fu ll te n d e rlo in , side m uscle o ff, skinned 3 -4

191 Loin, b u tt te n d e rlo in 2 -4

193 Flank ste a k 1 and up

134 B e e f bones A m o u n t as sp e cifie d

135 Diced b e e f A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d

13 5 A B e e f f o r s te w in g A m o u n t as sp e cifie d

13 6 G round b e e f A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d

B e e f p a tty m ix A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d

ch a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 79

veal Veal is the flesh of a young calf, generally four
to five months old. Because of its young, delicately ten­
der flesh, it is considered by some to be the finest meat
available. Classical preparations include, but are not
limited to, osso buco, vitello tonnato, cordon bleu, veal
piccata, and veal scaloppine.
Fine veal calves are fed mother’s milk or formula.
Milk-fed veal is up to twelve weeks old and is believed
to have the most tender meat. Formula-fed calves
consume a special diet and are the standard type of veal
used today; this veal is up to four months old.
Veal should be selected by color; it should be light
pink in color and tender. The five USDA grades of veal,
in order of highest to lowest quality, are Prime, Choice,
Good, Standard, and Utility. Because the overall ratio of
meat to bone is less than a full-grown bovine, there are
proportionately fewer cuts of veal.

These cuts are from the hindsaddle: 1. bottom round, 2. shank, 3. osso buco, 4. to p round cap off,
5. po rtion -cut veal cutlets, 6. trim m ed loin, 7. po rtion -cut chops

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 <1
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These cuts are from the foresaddle: 1. rack (chop-ready), 2. trenched rack chops, 3. breast,
4. trim m ed shoulder clod, 5. stew, 6. sweetbreads, 7. liver, 8. kidney

Chapter 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 8i

Bovine Veal Primal Cuts
SUBPRIMAL COMMON COOKING METHODS COMMON CULINARY USES j

leg primal cut

SHANK B raising, ste w in g O fte n pre p a re d osso buco

HEEL S te w in g O fte n pre p a re d ground

TOP ROUND; KNUCKLE; D ry he at saute, ro a stin g , ste w in g O fte n p re pa red as scaloppine, c u tle ts
BOTTOM ROUND; (V 2 in /1 cm), sc h n itz e l [ lA in /6 mm),
EYE ROUND; BUTT em ince, escalope, and kabobs. Usable
trim o fte n used f o r ste w in g or p re ­
pared as fo rc e m e a t

loin primal cut

TENDERLOIN; SIRLOIN R oasting, sau tein g O fte n p re pa red as m edallions,

n o is e tte s , and as a w hole ro a st

TR IM M ED LOIN; R o astin g (bone-in o r boneless), sauteing, O fte n p re pa red as chops (bone-in or

SPLIT BONELESS LOIN b ro ilin g boneless), m edallions, scaloppine,
(STRIP LOIN) em ince, escalope

hotel rack primal cut

RACK; SPLIT CHOP- R o astin g (bone-in o r boneless), b ro ilin g , O fte n p re pa red as fre n ch e d or crown,
READY RACK; g rillin g , sau tein g chops (bone-in, french ed ), and m e d a l­
FRENCHEDRACK lions, scaloppine, em ince, escalope

square-cut shoulder primal cut

SQUARE-CUT R o astin g (boneless), stew ing , b ra isin g O fte n pre p a re d ground

SHOULDER, BONELESS

SHOULDER CLOD S tew ing , ro a stin g , bra isin g O fte n pre p a re d ground

market forms

BREAST B raising, ro a s tin g O fte n pre p a re d s tu ffe d , b u tte rflie d ,

o r as bacon

FORESHANK B raising, s te w in g O fte n p re pa red ground

variety meats (offal)

CHEEKS B raising, ste w in g Used in braises and stew s

TONGUE B raising, sim m e ring O fte n used in th e p re p a ra tio n o f

te rrin e s

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
 <
( I
p

5UBPRIMAL COMMON COOKING METHODS COMMON CULINARY USES

SWEETBREADS Poaching the n sau tein g O fte n served as an a p p e tiz e r o r hors

d'oeuvre b u t can be served as an
en tre e

LIVER S au tein g O fte n served sau teed w ith onions

and o th e r fla v o rin g s such as sherry,
herbs, o r lem on

HEART B raising, ste w in g O fte n p re pa red in ste w or added to

dishes in chopped fo rm

KIDNEYS S au tein g O fte n fo u n d sauteed; served in a pie

BRAINS Poaching the n sa u te in g O fte n fo u n d in sauteed dishes b u t can

also be deep frie d

FEET S im m e ring M o s t o fte n used in m aking s to c k o r in

cla ssica l cold fo o d p re p a ra tio n s like
Zam bone

Veal skeletal structure

Chapter 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 83

 Veal HRI Cuts
ITEM PRODUCT NAME WEIGHT RANGE (POUNDS)

306 H o te l rack, 7 ribs 1 0 -1 2

30 6 B C hop -re ad y rack 4 -5

307 Rack, rib eye, boneless 3 -4

309 Chuck, s q u a re -cu t, bone-in (prim al) 2 0 -3 6

30 9 B Chuck, s q u a re -cu t, boneless 1 9 -3 3

30 9D Chuck, s q u a re -cu t, neck o ff, boneless, tie d 1 8 -3 2

310A Chuck, sh o u ld e r clod, boneless 4 -7

31 0 B Chuck, sh o u ld e r clod, boneless, ro a s t 4 -7

312 Foreshank 2 -4

313 B rea st 6 -1 0

331 Loin (prim al) 1 0 -1 8

332 Loin, trim m e d 8 -1 4

344 Loin, s trip loin, boneless 3 -6

346 Loin, b u tt te n d e rlo in , d e fa tte d I-IV 2

334 Leg (prim al) 4 0 -7 0

336 Leg, shank o ff, boneless 1 1 -1 9

337 Hindshank 2 -4

337A Shank, osso buco 13

363 Legs, TBS, 4 p a rts 2 4 -3 2

363A Leg, TBS, 3 p a rts 1 6 -2 4

349 Leg, to p round, cap on 8 -1 2

349A Leg, to p round, cap o f f 6 -8

39 5 Veal f o r s te w in g A m o u n t as sp e c ifie d

39 6 G round veal A m o u n t as sp e c ifie d

84 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN


Pork, the meat of domesticated pigs, is among
the most popular meat sold in the United States. Typi­
cally high in fat, pigs have been specifically bred over
many generations to produce leaner cuts of meat. Pigs
are commonly slaughtered under one year of age to en­
sure a tender product.
Although quality grades are less frequently assigned
to pork, when applied, the USDA grades, in order of
highest to lowest quality, are 1, 2, 3, 4, and Utility.
T 3
O
i-s
Because USDA grading is not required for pork and
federal grading must be paid for, packers will often use
their own grading system. This does not necessarily
mean that various cuts of pork are not of good qual­
ity, for the grading systems used by major packers are
clearly defined and are generally reliable. In the tables
that follow, BRT indicates boned, rolled, and tied. RTE
signifies ready to eat.

These cuts are from the rear ha lf o f the swine: 1. ham prepared by smoking, 2. fresh ham,
3. ham prepared by curing (prosciutto), 4. center-cut pork loin, 5. frenched rib end o f loin,
6. baby back ribs, 7. boneless tie d loin roast, 8. tenderloin, 9. center-cut pork chop fro m the
loin end, 10. cen ter-cut pork chop from the rib end

c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POULTRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 85
 pork, continued

These cuts are from the fro n t half o f the swine: 1. Boston butt, 2. pork picnic, 3. spare ribs,
4. fo o t. The follow ing are examples o f prepared pork items: 5. Genoa salami, 6. sliced bacon,
7. kielbasa, 8. chorizo, 9. pancetta, 10. Italian sausage, 11. breakfast sausage

86 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 o
Swine (Pig) Primal Cuts
SUBPRIMAL COMMON COOKING METHODS COMMON CULINARY USES

ham primal cut

SHAN K/H O C K S tew ing , b ra isin g O fte n pre p a re d sm oked o r corned

HAM (BONE-IN OR For fre s h ham, ro a s t (bone-in, BRT), P ro s c iu tto ham, sa lte d and d ry-cu red
BONELESS) ro a s t w hole, ro a s t as sm a lle r sectio ns, long te rm ; S m ith fie ld ham, dry-
o r c u tle ts cured and sm oked; inside ham RTE,
baked; th in -s lic e d sm oked ham (w e t-
cured, h a lf o r w hole, b u tt/s h a n k );
bo ile d ham (w e t-cu re d , cooked to
1 4 5 °F /6 3 °C )

TOP ROUND S a u tein g O fte n p re pa red as c u tle ts

loin primal cut

CENTER-CUT PORK LOIN R oasting, g rillin g , b ro ilin g , sau tein g O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t (bone-in or
boneless); fre n ch e d , sm oked, chops
(bone-in); o r C a na dia n-style bacon
(boneless)

BONELESS LOIN G rillin g , b ro ilin g , sau tein g O fte n p re pa red as c u tle ts , m ed al­
(EYE MUSCLE) lions, o r sch n itze l

TENDERLOIN R oasting, sau tein g O fte n p re pa red as m ed allio ns or

ro a s te d w hole

boston butt primal cut

BOSTON BUTT R oasting, stew ing , sa u te in g O fte n pre p a re d (bone-in, boneless)

as fo rc e m e a t o r sausages

COTTAGE BUTT R o astin g o r fry in g as bacon O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t (fre sh ) or

sm oked (English bacon)

picnic primal cut

PICNIC (BO NE-IN OR Braising, s te w in g O fte n p re pa red as a ro a s t o r bone­

BONELESS) less (boneless, BRT, skin on, fresh);
sm oked and cured (picnic ham,
sm oked shoulder); as ta sso ham; as
fo rc e m e a t (used f o r co ld -c u t
p re p a ra tio n s)

c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POULTRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 87
Swine (Pig) Primal Cuts, continued
SUBPRIMAL COMMON COOKING METHODS COMMON CULINARY USES !

market forms

BELLY S auteed or ro a s te d when fre sh ; o th e r T yp ica lly cured fo r bacon, pa nce tta,
fo rm s frie d o r s a lt p o rk b u t can be slow ro a ste d
o r braised as fre s h p o rk be lly

SPARE RIBS, ST. LOUIS B arbecuing, b ra isin g S low cooked in barbecue; can be
RIBS (TRIM M ED) stea m e d o r sim m e red to te n d e rize

BABY BACK RIBS B arbecuing S low cooked as barbecued w hole

racks; can be se ctio n e d , coated, and
cooked in d iv id u a lly

FATBACK S auteed Can be fre s h o r salted; o fte n p re ­

pared as lardons; in c o n fit, cassoulet,
and fo rc e m e a t

variety meats (offal)

JOWL, SNOUT, NECK B raising O fte n p re pa red as fo rc e m e a t and as

BONES, LIVER, HEART, sausage
FEET, TOES, TAIL,
INTESTINES, KIDNEYS,
CAUL FAT

Boston b u tt loin

Pork skeletal structure

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 o
Pork HRI Cuts 2
ITEM PRODUCT NAME WEIGHT RANGE (POUNDS)

401 Fresh ham 1 8 -2 0

402B Fresh ham, boneless, tie d 8 -1 2

403 Shoulder, picnic 6 -8

405A Shoulder, picnic, boneless 4 -8

406 Shoulder, B osto n b u tt, bone-in (prim al) 4 and up

406A Shoulder, B osto n b u tt, boneless 4 and up

408 B elly 1 2 -1 8

410 Loin (p rim a l) 1 6 -1 8

412 Loin, c e n te r-c u t, 8 ribs, bone-in 8 -1 0

412B Loin, c e n te r-c u t, 8 ribs, boneless 4 -6

412C Loin, c e n te r-c u t, 11 rib s, bone-in 1 0 -1 2

412E Loin, c e n te r-c u t, 11 ribs, boneless 5 -7

413 Loin, boneless 9 -1 1

415 T end erloin 1 and up

416 Spare rib s 2 1/ 2 - 5 1/2

416A Spare ribs, S t. Louis s ty le 2 -3

417 S h o ulder hocks 3/ t a n d up

418 T rim m in gs A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d

420 F eet, fr o n t 1/2 -3/4

4 21 Neck bones A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d

422 Loin, back ribs, baby back ribs l 1/2 -2 1/4

c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 89

 lamb and mutton Lamb is the tender meat
produced by young, domesticated sheep. Its texture is a
direct result of what it consumes and the age at which
it is slaughtered. The milk-fed varieties of lamb are in­
clined to yield the most delicate meat. Once a lamb be­
gins to eat grass, the flesh loses some of its tenderness.
However, most lamb produced in the United States
is finished on a grain diet and is six to seven months
These cuts are from the hindsaddle: 1. leg, 2. leg BRT, 3. trim m ed loin, 4. loin chops, 5. noisettes
90 TOOLS AND INGREDIENTS IN THE PROFESSIONAL KITCHEN
old. Lamb that is allowed to age over sixteen months is
known as mutton. Mutton is considered to have a more
pronounced flavor and texture than lamb. As with other
varieties of meat, lamb becomes tougher as it ages.
Lamb tends to be fatty. Its unique flavor pairs nicely
with intense seasonings and accompaniments. The five
grades of lamb, in order of highest to lowest quality, are
Prime, Choice, Good, Utility, and Cull.
 lamb and m utton

These cuts are from the foresaddle: 1. sp lit and chined rack, 2. frenched rack, 3. double- and
single-rack chops, 4. square-cut chuck/shoulder, 5. shoulder BRT, 6. shanks

c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POULTRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 91
Ovine (Lamb) Primal Cuts
SUBPRIMAL COMMON COOKING METHODS COMMON CULINARY USES 1

leg primal cut

SHANK, HEEL, KNUCKLE, S te w in g (bone-in or boneless), braising, O fte n pre p a re d as leg o f lam b or
EYE ROUND, BOTTOM ro a s tin g (m o st com m on) ro a s t (bone-in, BRT, oven-ready,
ROUND fre n ch e d , sem i-bon eless)

TOP ROUND R oasting, sau tein g, g rillin g , b ro ilin g O fte n p re pa red as steaks, scalop-
pine, o r b u tte r f lied

loin primal cut

TRIM M ED LOIN, SPLIT; R o astin g (rare), sauteing, g rillin g , b ro ilin g O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t (bone-in,
BO N ELESS(EYE boneless); c u t in to chops
MUSCLE); SIRLOIN

TENDERLOIN Sauteing, g rillin g , b ro ilin g O fte n pre p a re d as m ed allio ns o r

n o is e tte s

hotel rack primal cut

RACK (SPLIT AND R oasting, sau tein g, b ro ilin g , g rillin g O fte n p re pa red as a ro a s t (bone-in,
CHINED) crow n roa st); chops: A m erican (sin­
g le /d o u b le ) o rfre n c h e d

BREAST Braising, ste w in g O fte n pre p a re d as rib le ts or s tu ffe d

shoulder square primal cut

FORESHANK Braising, ste w in g M ay be pre p a re d bone-in o r boneless

NECK Braising, s te w in g O fte n pre p a re d ground

SQ UARE-CUTCHUCK, B raising, stew ing , g rillin g , b ro ilin g O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t (bone-in or

BONELESS BRT) o r chops (round o r blade bone)

variety meats (offal)

TONGUE S im m e rin g O fte n sm oked

LIVER S a u tein g O fte n pre p a re d as fo rc e m e a t

HEART Braising, ste w in g S m a lle r h e a rts are o fte n s tu ffe d and

sau teed o r ro a s te d f o r a single
p o rtio n

KIDNEYS S tew ing, b ra isin g O fte n stew e d and served w ith he arty
in g re d ie n ts such as bacon and
m ushroom s

INTESTINES Depends on th e p re p a ra tio n Used as casing f o r sausage

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
 lamb and m utton
Lamb HRI Cuts
ITEM PRODUCT NAME WEIGHT RANGE (POUNDS) f

204 Rack (prim al) 6 -8

204B Rack, ro a s t-re a d y , single 2 -4

206 S ho ulder 2 0 -2 4

207 Shoulder, square cut 5 -7

208 Shoulder, square cut, boneless, tie d 6 -8

209 B re a st 7 -1 1

210 Foreshank 2 -3

231 Loin 9 -1 1

232 Loin, trim m e d 6 -8

232B Loin, double, boneless 3 -4

233 Leg, p a ir (prim al) 1 9 -2 0

233A Leg, single, t r o t t e r o f f 1 0 -1 2

234 Leg, boneless, tie d , single 8 -1 0

233G Leg, hindshank 1 and up

233E Leg, ste a m sh ip 7 -9

295 Lam b f o r s te w in g A m o u n t as needed

295A Lam b f o r kabobs A m o u n t as needed

296 G round lamb A m o u n t as needed

Lamb and m utton skeletal structure whole carcass

foresaddle hindsaddle

c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 93

venison and furred game Free-
roaming and domesticated wild animals fall under the
category of game. A variety of game meats have become
increasingly popular due in part to customer awareness
of lower fat and cholesterol content. Depending upon
the area of the country, several types of furred game are
available.
Game meats are categorized into two segments:
large and small. Venison is the most popular large
game, characterized by lean meat that is free from
intramuscular fat, generally dark red in color, and suit­
able for roasting, sauteing, and grilling. Though venison
commonly refers to deer, other members of the venison
family include moose, elk, and reindeer. Buffalo and
wild boar are other popular large game.
The most common of the small game is rabbit.
Rabbit has mild, lean, tender, and fine-textured meat.
A mature rabbit ranges from three to five pounds, and
young rabbit is generally two to three pounds. The loin
is often sauteed or roasted, while legs are commonly
braised or stewed.
Commercial game meats are federally inspected.
The quality of the flesh is a direct result of age, diet, and
the time of year that it was killed.

These cuts are from a variety o f game animals: 1. venison leg/haunch, 2. boneless venison
loin, 3. venison medallions, 4. venison saddle, 5. frenched venison rack, 6. venison shoulder,
7. boneless venison shoulder, 8. rabbit

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
 O

poultry The word poultry refers to any domesti­
cated bird used for human consumption. Once reserved
for special occasions, chicken and other poultry have
become commonplace in restaurants and homes. The
subtle and familiar flavor of chicken lends itself well
to a number of different cooking methods. Considered
very nutritious, poultry entrees are among the most
popular on most menus.
Similar to other meats, poultry must undergo a C
mandatory inspection for wholesomeness. The grades r+
of USDA A, B, or C depend on numerous factors, such i- i
"< !
as carcass shape and the ratio of meat to bone. Once
inspected, the birds are plucked, cleaned, chilled, and
packaged. They may be purchased whole or in parts.
Poultry is classified by age. The younger the bird, the
more tender the flesh.

These birds are examples o f geese and ducks: 1. Buddhist duck (called Pekin duck if the head is
removed), 2. moulard duck breast, 3. goose, 4. moulard duck legs, 5. fo ie gras

ch a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 95

 poultry, continued

These birds are examples o f the chicken fam ily: 1 .6-pound roaster chicken, 2. turkey,
B. stew ing hen, 4 . 3-pound fry e r chicken, 5. pheasant, 6. bone-in quail, 7. squab, 8. guinea
fow l, 9. semi-boneless quail

96 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
 ^ 0
o
Classes of Poultry £
APPROX. APPROX. WEIGHT COMMON COOKING COMMON CULINARY
TYPE (DESCRIPTION)
AGE (POUNDS) METHOD USES

BROILER 4 - 6 w eeks 1 -3 B ro ilin g , g rillin g , O fte n pre pa red

sau tein g w hole o r s p lit

FRYER 6 -1 0 3 '/2 - 4 1/2 R oasting, g rillin g , O fte n pre pa red

weeks bro ilin g , s a u te in g whole, s p lit,
qu a rte re d , or
d is jo in te d

ROASTER 3 -5 7 -9 R o astin g M o s t o fte n prepared

m onths w hole

FOWL (STEWING HEN, Over 10 6 -8 S im m e ring M o s t o fte n prepared

FEMALE) m onths in a soup, sto ck, or
stew

POUSSIN 3 weeks 1 R o astin g M o s t o fte n prepared

w hole

ROCK CORNISH HEN, 5 - 7 weeks Less tha n 2 R o astin g M o s t o fte n prepared

CORNISH CROSS w hole or s p lit

CAPON (CASTRATED U nder 8 7 -9 R o astin g R oasted whole,

M ALE) m onths carving

HEN TURKEY 5 -7 8 -2 0 R o astin g R oasted whole

(FEM ALE) m onths

TOM TURKEY (M ALE) O ver 7 20 and up R o astin g R oasted w hole

m onths

BROILER DUCKLING U nder 8 4 -6 R oasting, sauteing, O fte n only b re a s t is

weeks g rillin g pre pa red. Legs o fte n
p re pa red as c o n fit

ROASTER DUCKLING U nder 12 6 -8 R o astin g Slow ro a s t w hole or

weeks cu t in half; can be
cu t in to p a rts and
ro a ste d

GOOSE 6 m onths 8 -1 6 R o astin g Can be dry cooked,

and up ro a s te d w hole or cut
in half, cu t in to p a rts
and ro a ste d

SQUAB 2 5 -3 0 3/ 4 - l R o astin g R oasted w hole

days

c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POULTRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 97
Classes of Poultry, continued
APPROX. APPROX. WEIGHT COMMON COOKING COMMON CULINARY
TYPE (DESCRIPTION)
AGE (POUNDS) METHOD USES

PIGEON 2 -6 3/ 4 -l R o astin g R oasted w hole

m onths

PHEASANT 6 - 8 weeks 2 -3 R o astin g Can be cooked by

d ry - or m o is t-h e a t
m ethods; can be
ro a ste d w hole o r cut
in h a lf

QUAIL 6 - 8 weeks V a-V2 R oasting, g rillin g , R oasted w hole

b ro ilin g

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
fish and shellfish
identification
Fish and shellfish were once plentiful and inexpensive; however, due to overfishing and
the development and degradation of many coastal areas, demand has begun to outstrip
supply. These factors have caused many countries to pass regulations limiting
commercial fishing in specific waters, as well as the rise of aquaculture (the farm raising
of fish), to ensure reliable sources. And as the health benefits of fish are increasingly
becoming widely known, many Americans who traditionally favored red meats both at
home and when they eat out are ordering fish entrees more often. JM
 fish basics
The increased value of seafood demands th a t a chef PAVE A portion-sized square cut from a fille t. A
must be fam iliar with a wide variety of fish and shellfish, pave is generally cut from a large fille t, fo r exam­
and th eir sources; be able to select absolutely fresh ple, salmon, halibut, mahi mahi, or tuna.
fish and shellfish of the best quality; and understand
the best cooking method or methods to use in their FRESHNESS CHECKS FOR FINFISH
preparation.
To ensure th at fish are of the best quality, the chef
The firs t step in the selection process is assessing
should carefully inspect them, checking for as many of
the purveyor or market. The fishmonger should properly
the following signs of freshness and quality as possible:
handle, ice, and display the fish and should be able to
answer any questions regarding the fish's origin and Fish should be received a t a tem perature of
its qualities: lean or oily, firm -textu red or delicate, ap­ 4 0 °F /4 °C or less.
propriate fo r m oist-heat method or able to withstand a
The fish should have a good overall appearance
grill’s heat.
(clear slime, no cuts or bruising, pliable fins).

M A R K E T F O R M S OF FISH The scales should adhere tigh tly to the fish.

Fish can be purchased fresh in the m arket forms de­ The flesh should respond to light pressure and not
scribed below, as well as in frozen, smoked, pickled, or fee l soft.
salted forms.
The eyes should be clear, bright, and bulging.
WHOLE FISH This is the fish as it was caught, com­
The gills should be bright pink to maroon in color,
pletely intact. This is typically referred to as "in
and if mucous is present, it should be clear.
the round.”
There should be no "belly burn"— evidence th at the
DRAWN FISH The viscera (guts) are removed, but
viscera (guts) were le ft in the fish too long, result­
head, fins, and scales are still intact.
ing in bacteria and enzymes breaking down the
H 6 G (HEADED AND GUTTED) OR HEAD-OFF flesh along the rib cage.
DRAWN The head and viscera (guts) are removed,
The fish should have a clean, sweet, sea-like smell.
but scales and fins are still intact.

DRESSED FISH The viscera (guts), gills, scales, and STORAGE

fins are removed. The head may or may not be re­
Under correct storage conditions, fish and shellfish can
moved. Also known as pan-dressed, these fish are
be held fo r several days w ithout losing any appreciable
usually appropriate fo r a single serving.
quality. Ideally, however, the chef should purchase only
STEAK This is a portion-sized cross section cut the amount of fish needed fo r a day or two and should
from a dressed fish. Portion cuts from the fille ts store it properly, as described below:
of large fish, such as tuna and swordfish, are also
1. Always keep fish at a proper storage tem perature
commonly called steaks.
and handle them as little as possible. Finfish: 28° to
FILLET This is a boneless piece of fish, removed 3 2 ° F /-2 ° to 0°C; smoked fish: 32°F/0°C ; caviar: 28°
from either side of the backbone. The skin may or to 3 2 ° F /- 2 ° t o 0°C.
may not be removed before cooking. Purveyors
2 . Whole, drawn, H 6 G, and dressed fish may be rinsed
often sell fille ts "pin-bone in," so it is im portant to
at this point; scaling and fabricating should be de­
specify "pin-bone out" when ordering.
layed until close to service time.
TRANCHE A portion-sized slice of a fille t th at is
3. Place the fish on a bed of shaved or flaked ice in
cut at a 45 -d e g ree angle to expose a g rea ter sur­
a perforated container (such as a hotel pan with a
face area. A tranche is generally cut from a large
draining pan), preferably stainless steel. The fish
fille t, fo r example, salmon or halibut.

lo o T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN


should be belly down, and the belly cavity should be
filled with shaved ice as well.
4. Cover with additional ice. Fish may be layered, if
necessary, with shaved or flaked ice; cubed ice can
bruise the fish's flesh. It also will not conform as
closely to the fish. Shaved or flaked ice makes a
tig h ter seal around the entire fish. This prevents
undue contact w ith the air, slowing loss of quality
and helping to extend safe storage life.
5. Set the perforated container in a second container.
In this way, as the ice melts, the w ater will drain
away. If fish is allowed to sit in a pool of water, flavor
and textu re loss will occur. The longer it sits, the
g reater the loss of quality.
6. Re-ice fish daily. Even when properly iced, fish will
gradually lose some quality. To slow this loss, skim
common fish types
The s k e le ta l s tru c tu re o f fis h is a use ful means o f sepa­
ra tin g fin fis h in to sm a lle r groupings. The th re e basic
typ e s o f fin fis h are fla t, round, and nonbony. F la tfis h
have a backbone th a t runs th ro u g h th e ce n te r o f th e
fis h w ith tw o up pe r and tw o lo w er fille ts , and bo th eyes
on the same side o f th e head. Round fis h have a m iddle
backbone w ith one f ille t on e ith e r side, and one eye on
each side o f th e head. N onbony fis h have c a rtila g e ra th ­
er than bones. (See diagram s on pages 1 0 4 and 113.)
c h a p t e r y » FISH A N D S H E L L F I S H I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
fish basics
the top layer of ice from the storage container, and
replace it with fresh ice.
Fish purchased as fille ts or steaks should be stored in
stain le ss- stee l containers set on ice. They should not be
in d ire c t c o n ta ct w ith the ice, however, because as it melts,
much o f the fla v o r and te x tu re o f the fish w ill be lost.
Frozen fish , includ in g ice-glazed w hole fis h (re p e a t­
edly coa ted w ith w a te r and fro ze n so th a t the ice builds
up in layers, co a tin g th e e n tire fish), in d ivid u a lly quick
fro z e n (IQF), and fro z e n fille ts (which are o fte n tre a te d
w ith sodium trip o ly p h o s p h a te [stp] to p ro m o te added
w a te r re te n tio n ) should be sto re d a t -2 0 ° to 0 °F /-2 9 ° to
-1 8 °C u n til ready to be tha w ed and cooked.
Do n o t acce pt any fro z e n fis h w ith w h ite fr o s t on its
edges. This in d ica te s fre e z e r burn, the re s u lt o f im p ro p ­
er packaging o r th a w in g and re fre e z in g o f th e product.
Fish m ay also be ca te g o rize d by th e ir a c tiv ity level:
low, m edium , o r high. The m ore a fis h swim s, th e darker
its fle s h w ill be. D a rke r-fle sh e d fis h have a higher oil
c o n te n t and, th e re fo re , a s tro n g e r flavo r. When choosing
th e b e st coo kin g tech niq ue fo r a given fish, consider the
o il c o n te n t o f th e fle sh . Low - and h ig h -a c tiv ity fis h have
lim ite d coo kin g m ethods, w h ile m e d iu m -a c tiv ity fis h are
q u ite v e rs a tile . (See th e ta b le s on pages 1 0 6 to 113.)
lO l
 flat fish The characteristics of flat fish include the
following: one pigmented and one nonpigmented side;
either right- or left-eyed; continuous dorsal and anal
fins that stop before the caudal fin.

HALIBUT

TURBOT

PET R A LE

SO LE

LEM O N SOLE

B LA C K -B A C K FLO U NDER
(RIGHT-EYED)

F LU K E (LEFT -E Y ED FLOUNDER)

DOVER SOLE

102 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 flat fish
Flat Fish

COMMON COOKING METHODS AND

NAME(S) DESCRIPTION
CULINARY USES

right-eyed

GRAY SO LE/W ITCH Found th ro u g h o u t th e G u lf o f M aine Baking, poaching, sauteing, stea m ing
FLOUNDER in d e ep er areas along G eorges Bank.
Averages 2 4 inches and 3 - 4 pounds,
w ith 4 - to 10-ou nce fille ts . Ligh t, s lig h tly
sw e et, d e lic a te fle s h

W INTER F LO U N D ER / Found inshore du rin g w in te r m onths, Baking, poaching, sauteing, stea m ing
BLACK-BACK m o s tly in New York, M assa chu setts, and
FLO U N D ER / Rhode Island. Averages I V 2-2 pounds.
MUD DAB C olor ranges fro m re d d ish -b ro w n to deep
olive green; w h ite underside. D iam ond
shape. D elicate, m ild ly fla v o rfu l fle sh

PLAICE/ROUGH DAB Found on bo th sides o f th e A tla n tic ; Baking, poaching, sauteing, steam ing
called European, Irish, Am erican, or
Canadian plaice depending on where it is
found; m em ber o f flo u n d e r fa m ily. Sm all
fla t fish; 1 - 3 pounds average size. Firm,
sweet, lean flesh ; considered good q u a lity

YELLO W TAIL Found p rim a rily fro m L a b ra d o r to Rhode Baking, poaching, sau tein g
FLOUNDER Island, can be as fa r sou th as V irg in ia .
Averages 1 - 2 pounds. O live brow n w ith
ru s ty spots; ye llo w ta il; c o lo r m irro rs th e
ocean flo o r, p ro v id in g p ro te c tio n fro m
p re d a to rs . Lean, fla k y , sw e e t fle sh

LEMON SOLE A w in te r flo u n d e r. M in im um o f 3V2 Baking, poaching, sau tein g

pounds, w ith 8-o un ce fille ts . W hite,
som e w h at firm , m ild ly sw e e t fle s h

ROCK SOLE Found fro m th e B ering Sea to C a lifo rn ia Baking, poaching, sau tein g
and as fa r w e s t as Japan. Averages less
than 5 pounds. Firm , cream y w h ite fle s h

PETRALE/PETRALE Found in th e P a cific Ocean fro m Poaching, sau tein g

SOLE A laska to M exico; th e m o s t im p o rta n t
co m m e rcia l W est C oast species. Sold
w h ole o r w ith head, ta il, and p igm e nted
skin rem oved. Averages 6 - 7 pounds.
Firm , w h ite fle sh ; s im ila r in e a tin g
q u a litie s to lem on sole

REX SOLE Found in cold w a te rs near and around Poaching, sau tein g
A laska. Averages 1 - 2 pounds. E longated
body. D e lica te , cream y, w h ite , som e w h at
s o ft fle sh ; d is tin c t in fla v o r

ch a p te r 7 » F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 103
 Flat Fish, continued
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND
NAME(S) DESCRIPTION
CULINARY USES

DOVER SOLE Found only in European w a te rs. Pale Baking, b ro ilin g , poaching, sauteing,
gray to brow n. Sm all, com p resse d head; ste a m in g
ve ry sm all eyes; e lon gate d body. Flesh is
f a t tie r and fir m e r than o th e r m em bers
o f th e f la t fis h fa m ily. Dover sole is
ty p ic a lly served whole.

HALIBUT Found in th e A tla n tic fro m G reenland to Baking, b ro ilin g , fry in g , g rillin g ,
so u th e rn New Jersey; m ust be labeled poaching, sauteing, stea m ing
P a cific h a lib u t if fro m P a cific Ocean. Can
be as large as 7 0 0 pounds, com m only
1 5 -3 0 pounds. Gray skin w ith w h ite
m o ttlin g . Dense, sn o w -w h ite fle sh ; fin e
te x tu re ; m ild ta s te ; h ig h e st fa t c o n te n t
o f all lo w -a c tiv ity f la t fis h

left-eyed

FLU K E /S U M M E R Found in co a sta l w a te rs fro m th e G ulf Baking, poaching, sau tein g

FLOUNDER o f M aine to th e Carolinas. Large m outh
exte n d s below and beyond its eyes.
W hite, fla k y fle sh ; d e lic a te fla v o r and
te x tu re

TURBOT Found in th e N o rth Sea and European Baking, b ro ilin g , fry in g , g rillin g ,
N o rth A tla n tic , tho ugh m o s tly fa rm e d in poaching, steam ing, sau tein g
th e Iberian Peninsula and Chile. Averages
3 - 6 pounds. D e lica te fla v o r; firm te x tu re

tail (caudal tin) backbone dorsal tin operculum (gill co1

Flat fish skeletal structure

104 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

 low-activity round fish
low-activity round fish The character­
istics of round fish include the following: eyes on both
sides of head; swim in upright position; firm gill plate;
low, medium, or high activity.

FISH

HADDOCK

PO LLO CK

WHITE HAKE

c h a p te r 7 » F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 105
 Low-Activity Round Fish
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND
NAME(S) DESCRIPTION
CULINARY USES

COD S a ltw a te r fis h . P rovides w e ig h ty fille ts S hallow poaching, baking, pan fry in g ,
w ith good s h e lf life . T hick, w h ite flesh ; deep fry in g . Smoked, cured, salted,
m ild fla v o r; roe, cheeks, and chins are and d rie d
d e lica cie s in som e cu ltu re s

HADDOCK S a ltw a te r fish ; m em ber o f th e cod Poaching, baking, sauteing, pan

fa m ily . Averages 2 - 5 pounds; s im ila r to fry in g . S alte d and sm oked
cod, b u t sm a lle r m axim um size. A vaila ble
drawn o r as f ille ts and stea ks (when
buying fille ts , skin should be le ft on to
d is tin g u is h fro m A tla n tic cod). Low fa t;
firm te x tu re , m ild fla v o r

W HITE HAKE S a ltw a te r fish ; m em ber o f th e cod Pan fry in g , baking, sm oking
fa m ily . Averages 3 - 1 0 pounds, tho ugh
can be as large as 30 pounds. Com m only
sold w ith o u t th e head. S o ft flesh ;
s w e e te r and m ore fla v o rfu l than o th e r
m em bers o f th e cod fa m ily

POLLOCK S a ltw a te r fis h ; m em ber o f th e cod Poaching, baking, sauteing, g rillin g ,

fa m ily . Averages 4 - 1 0 pounds. M o s tly b ro ilin g , sm oking
sold as skin less fille ts . Reduced sh e lf
life because o f high er o il co n te n t. D arker
fle sh ; s tro n g e r and m ore d is tin c t fla v o r
tha n o th e r m em bers o f th e cod fa m ily

W O LFF IS H S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m th e N o rth A tla n tic S hallow poaching, sauteing, pan
(New England and Iceland); m em ber o f fry in g
th e c a tfis h fa m ily . Large head, p o w e rfu l
ja w s, and sharp canine te e th ; fe e d s on
m ollusks, clams, and w helks. Can be
up to 40 pounds. W hite, firm fle s h o f
va ryin g f a t c o n te n t

106 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

 medium-activity round fish
medium-activity round fish

ch a p te r 7 » F IS H A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
 Medium-Activity Round Fish
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND
NAME(S) DESCRIPTION
CULINARY USES

W EAKFISH S a ltw a te r fis h . Averages 2 - 6 pounds. Poaching, baking, sauteing, g rillin g ,

S w eet, o ff-w h ite d e lic a te fle s h b ro ilin g , steam ing. Used to make
fo rc e m e a ts

W ALLEYED PIKE F re sh w a te r fish . Spiny fin n e d . Averages B ro ilin g , sauteing, poaching,

I V 2-3 pounds. M ild fla v o r; low f a t steam ing, baking, stew ing . Used to
co n te n t; firm te x tu re make fo rc e m e a ts , in soups

BLACK SEA BASS S a ltw a te r fish ; fro m New England to Poaching, baking, deep fry in g ,
F lorida. Averages 1 - 3 pounds. A vailable sau tein g. C om m only served whole,
drawn w h ole o r in fille ts . W hite, firm using ta b le s id e p re s e n ta tio n
fle sh ; d e lic a te te x tu re

STRIPED BASS Averages 2 - 1 5 pounds, can reach up to B roilin g, g rillin g , poaching, baking,
50 pounds. Firm, fla v o rfu l fle sh ; large deep fry in g , sauteing. Pickled;
fla k e e x tre m e ly v e rs a tile

HYBRID B A SS/H YBR ID F arm -raised fis h th a t h it th e m a rk e t in
STRIPED BASS th e 1 9 8 0 s; cross be tw ee n w h ite bass
and s trip e d bass. Averages 1 -2 pounds.
Flesh cooks v e ry w h ite ; som ew hat
e a rth y fla v o r
B roilin g, g rillin g , poaching, baking,
deep fry in g , sauteing. Pickled;
e x tre m e ly v e rs a tile

RED SNAPPER Found in th e G u lf o f M exico and ad ja cent Poaching, baking, sauteing, g rillin g ,
A tla n tic w a te rs. R eef fis h ; buy a t less b ro ilin g , ste a m in g
than 5 pounds because o f cig ua te ra
to xin . D orsal red skin becom es lig h t red
or p ink on belly; red eyes; long p e cto ra l
fin s . Firm te x tu re

YELLO W TAIL SNAPPER
S a ltw a te r re e f fish . Averages 1 -2 Poaching, baking, sauteing, g rillin g ,
pounds, can be as large as 6 pounds; b ro ilin g , stea m ing
buy at less than 5 pounds because o f
cig u a te ra to x in . G re e n ish -ye llo w s trip e
runs le n g th o f body. S lig h tly sw eet,
w h ite , fin e , fla k y fle sh ; good e a tin g fis h

SILK SNAPPER S a ltw a te r re e f fish ; buy a t less than Poaching, baking, sauteing, g rillin g ,
5 pounds because o f cig ua te ra to xin . b ro ilin g , ste a m in g
R e dd ish-p ink skin, ye llo w underside;
ye llo w eyes. S im ila r to red snapper;
ty p ic a lly less expensive

VERM ILIO N SN APP ER /
BEELINER/CARIBBEAN
SNAPPER
S a ltw a te r re e f fish . Averages 2 pounds, Poaching, baking, sauteing, g rillin g ,
b u t can be as large as 5 o r 6 pounds; b ro ilin g , ste a m in g
buy a t less than 5 pounds because o f
cig u a te ra to xin . Pale red along its side.
O fte n s u b s titu te d f o r red snapper,
tho ugh sm aller, co m m e rcia lly less
valuable, and less fla v o rfu l

108 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 medium-activity round fish
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND
NAME(S) DESCRIPTION
CULINARY USES

RED GROUPER S a ltw a te r re e f fish ; buy a t less than Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , steam ing,
5 pounds because o f cig u a te ra to x in . deep fry in g . In chow ders
R e dd ish-b row n color; b lo tch e s on the
skin; black d o ts around th e eyes. Few, if
any, pin bones. Im p o rta n t com m e rcial
catch. S w eet, w h ite fle sh

BLACK GROUPER S a ltw a te r re e f fis h , in deep w a te rs; Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , steam ing,
buy a t less than 5 pounds because o f deep fry in g . In chow ders
cig u a te ra to x in . B la ckish -b ro w n color.
Few, if any, pin bones. S w eet, o ff-w h ite
fle s h

GAG GROUPER S a ltw a te r re e f fish ; buy a t less than Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , steam ing,
5 pounds because o f cig u a te ra to xin . deep fry in g . In chow ders
L ig h t brow n w ith da rk brow n le o p a rd ­
like spo ts. Few, if any, pin bones. S w eet,
w h ite fle sh

TILEFISH S a ltw a te r fish ; fo u n d along th e e n tire Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , deep

East Coast. Averages 6 - 8 pounds, can be fry in g , pan fry in g
as large as 30 pounds. A vaila ble w hole
and drawn, o r as fille ts . C o lo rfu l body.
B ass-like q u a litie s ; firm y e t te n d e r fle s h

c h a p t e r y » F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H I D E N T IF IC A T IO N 109
 high-activity round fish

OFF)

FA RM -R AISED KING SALM O N

(PACIFIC S ALM O N )

ATLANTIC SALM O N

ARCTIC CHAR

RAINBOW TROUT

SPANISH M A C K ER EL

ATLANTIC M A C K ER EL

POMPANO

110 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 high-activity round fish
High-Activity Round Fish
COMMON COOKING METHODS
NAME(S) DESCRIPTION
AND CULINARY USES

ATLANTIC SALM O N A vaila ble ye a r-ro u n d th ro u g h o u t th e U n ite d S m oking, poaching, baking,

S ta te s; because o f fa rm in g , no w ild catch b ro ilin g , steam ing, g rillin g . In dips,
is co m m e rc ia lly available. Averages 6 -1 2 soups, sushi, and sashim i
pounds. Deep pink fle sh ; high fa t; shiny and
m o is t

KING/PACIFIC SALMO N Found fro m th e P a cific N o rth w e s t to A laska. S m oking, poaching, baking,
Ranges fro m 1 6 -2 0 pounds, la rg e s t o f b ro ilin g , steam ing, g rillin g . In dips
co m m e rcia l salm on. W ide bodied. M edium and soups
to da rk red fle s h

COHO/SILVER SALM O N Found th ro u g h o u t th e P a cific. S im ila r in Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g ,

ta s te and te x tu re to A tla n tic salm on stea m ing , g rillin g , sm oking. In
dips and soups

SO CKEYE/RED SALMO N Found in A laskan and B ritis h C olum bian Poaching, baking, b ro iling ,
rive rs. Averages 5 - 7 pounds. G liste n in g stea m ing , g rillin g , sm oking. In
s ilv e r skin. D ark red fle sh dips, soups, sushi, and sashim i;
ideal f o r canning

BROOK TROUT F re s h w a te r fis h ; fo u n d in th e n o rth e a s te rn Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , fry in g ,

U n ite d S ta te s and ea ste rn Canada; also g rillin g , stea m ing . S tu ffe d
fa rm raised. Averages 6 - 1 0 ounces. Dark,
o live -g re e n skin; cre a m -co lo re d spo ts.
D e lica te , b u tte ry fle s h

RAINBO W TR O U T F re s h w a te r fis h ; fa rm raised. Averages Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , fry in g ,

1 0 -1 4 ounces. G enerally sold head on. Dark g rillin g , steam ing. S tu ffe d
sp o ts on a lig h te r background. Firm , o f f -
w h ite fle s h w ith m ild fla v o r

STEELHEAD TROUT A nadrom ous species o f ra in b o w tr o u t; fa rm Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , fry in g ,

raised in th e U n ite d S ta te s and Canada. g rillin g , steam ing. S tu ffe d
Averages less tha n 12 pounds. S im ila r
m arkings to ra in b o w tro u t. Taste, te x tu re ,
and c o lo r s im ila r to A tla n tic salm on

ARCTIC CHAR A nadrom ous; fo u n d in Europe, Canada, Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , fry in g ,
and A laska; also fa rm raised. Averages 2 - 8 g rillin g , stea m ing . S tu ffe d
pounds. D ark red to rose o r w h ite fle sh ;
som e co n sid e r it su p e rio r to salm on

ALBACO RE/TO M BO S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m A tla n tic and P a cific Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
w a te rs. Valuable c o m m o d ity in U.S. canning
in d u s try , sold as "w h ite tuna.” A verages 1 0 -
30 pounds. L ig h t red to pink fle sh ; o ff- w h ite
when cooked. M ild fla v o r

c h a p te r 7 » F IS H A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N ill
 H igh-Activity Round Fish, continued
COMMON COOKING METHODS
NAME(S) DESCRIPTION
AND CULINARY USES

BIGEYE T U N A /A H I-B S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m tro p ic a l, te m p e ra te Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sauteing.
w a te rs . Ranges fro m 2 0 - 1 0 0 pounds. Rich, M uch so u g h t a fte r f o r sushi and
da rk fle s h sashim i

BLUEFIN TUNA S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m th e A tla n tic and the
G u lf o f M exico. A m ong th e la rg e s t o f fish,
can w eigh up to 1 ,5 0 0 pounds. D ark red to
re d d is h -b ro w n fle sh ; v e ry d is tin c t fla v o r
when cooked
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sauteing.
The m o s t sou gh t a fte r f o r sushi
and sashim i (c o n s is te n tly high
prices; m o s t is e xp o rte d )

YELLO W FIN TU N A /A H I
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m tro p ic a l and Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
s u b tro p ic a l w a te rs. W id e ly a va ila ble in the
U n ite d S ta te s; less expensive than bigeye
and b lu e fin . Y ellow s trip e s down side and
on d o rsa l and anal fin s . Flesh d a rk e r than
alba core, lig h te r than b lu e fin

SKIPJACK T U N A /A K U S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m th e C e ntral P a cific and Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
Hawaii. O fte n canned, sold as "lig h t tu n a ”;
o fte n m a rke te d fro ze n . Averages 7 - 1 2
pounds. S im ila r in c o lo r to y e llo w fin

SPANISH MACKEREL S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m V irg in ia to th e G u lf o f Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sauteing,
M exico in s p rin g and w in te r. Averages 2 - 4 sm oking
pounds. B rig h t y e llo w -g o ld s p o ts along its
sides. Lean, d e lic a te fle s h

ATLANTIC MACKEREL S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m th e N o rth A tla n tic . B est Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sauteing,
purchased in th e fa ll. Averages 1 -2 pounds. sm oking
S m o o th skin w ith v ib ra n t hues o f blue and
silver. O ily, da rk fle sh ; pung en t fla v o r

KING MACKEREL S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m F lo rid a in w in te r B roilin g, g rillin g , sm oking

m onths. Averages 1 0 - 2 0 pounds. C ontains
m ore f a t than Spanish m ackerel; w ell
fla v o re d

POMPANO S a ltw a te r fish; fro m the Carolinas to Florida Poaching, baking, b ro iling , g rillin g ,
and the G ulf o f M exico; m em ber o f the Jack fry in g , steam ing, en p a p illo te
fam ily. Very expensive; highly regarded fish.
Averages 1 -2 pounds. Delicate, beige flesh,
tu rn s w h ite when cooked; com plex flavo r;
medium fa t con tent

PERMIT S a ltw a te r fis h ; s im ila r to pom pano o n ly in Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g ,
c o lo r and geography; m em ber o f th e Jack fry in g , ste a m in g
fa m ily . Averages 1 0 -2 0 pounds, can be as
large as 50 pounds. Drier, m ore gra n u la r
fle s h than pom pano (though if o ffe re d in the
same w e ig h t range, fle s h can be sim ila r)

112 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 high-activity round fish
n c c rm rv r,™ , COMMON COOKING METHODS
NAME(S) DESCRIPTION AND CULINARY USES

GREATER AMBERJACK S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m G u lf o f M exico, W est Baking, b ro ilin g , sauteing,
A fric a , and th e M e d ite rra n e a n ; m em b er o f sm oking
th e Jack fa m ily . Averages 1 0 -4 0 pounds.
Dark, o ily fle sh ; s tro n g fla v o r

LESSER AM BERJACK
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m M a ssa ch u se tts to th e Baking, b ro ilin g , sauteing,
G u lf o f M exico and B razil; m em ber o f th e sm oking
Jack fa m ily . W eighs less tha n 8 pounds.
L ig h te r fle s h tha n g re a te r am berjack;
s im ila r in q u a lity

MAHI M A H I/ S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m tro p ic a l and s u b tro p ic a l Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , pan
DOLPHINFISH w a te rs. Ranges fro m 4 - 1 5 pounds; can be fry in g , sau tein g
as large as 50 pounds. Flesh is pink to lig h t
tan, tu rn in g beige to o ff- w h ite when cooked;
dense, sw eet, m o ist, and d e lic a te fle s h , w ith
a large fla k e

BLUEFISH S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m th e A tla n tic coast. Baking, b ro ilin g

Averages 4 - 1 0 pounds. Dark, oily, s tro n g ly
fla v o re d fle sh ; sm a lle r sizes have a m ild e r
fla v o r; fin e te x tu re d

SHAD Anadrom ous; fro m F lorida to S t. Law rence Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sauteing,
River. Fem ale (roe shad) averages 4 - 5 sm oking
pounds; m ale is sm aller. O ff-w h ite , sw e et
fle sh ; high f a t co n te n t. Roe is co n sid e re d a
de lica cy

backbone dorsal fin

operculum
tail (caudal fin) (gill cover)

pectoral fin
anal fin vent

ribs pin bones fin

Round fish skeletal structure

c h a p te r 7 » F IS H A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 113
 nonbony fish

STURGEON (HEAD OFF)

11 4 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
 O

Nonbony Fish P
NAME(S) DESCRIPTION
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND o
CULINARY USES

SWORDFISH S a ltw a te r fish ; fro m tro p ic a l, te m p e ra te Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
w a te rs and th e N o rth A tla n tic . S m ooth != b
skin, firm , dense fle sh . A vaila ble is i
skin le ss and headless, in f ille t s or 13-
stea ks. D is tin c tly fla v o re d

STURG EO N/ A na dro m ous fis h . A tla n tic sturge on , Baking, braised, b ro ilin g , g rillin g ,
ATLANTIC STURG EO N/ fro m n o rth e rn F lo rid a to S t. Law rence sau tein g, sm oking
W HITE STURGEON River, averages 60 to 8 0 pounds; w h ite
sturge on , fo u n d fro m C a lifo rn ia to
A laska and fa rm raised, averages 1 0 -1 5
pounds. H ighly re g ard ed f o r th e ir eggs,
fin e caviar. Firm , h ig h -fa t fle s h ; d e lic a te
fla v o r

M O N K F IS H / S a ltw a te r fis h . Averages 1 5 - 5 0 pounds, Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , fry in g ,

ANGLERFISH w ith 2 - to 6-p ou nd fille ts . C om m only sau tein g, pan fry in g . Livers are
sold as ta ils and fille ts ; low y ie ld when po p u la r in Japan
sold head on. Firm , m ild w h ite fle s h

MAKOSHARK S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m w arm , te m p e ra te , Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , fry in g ,

and tro p ic a l w a te rs. Ranges fro m sau tein g. S hark fin is po p u la r in Hong
3 0 - 1 0 0 pounds. One o f th e m o s t highly Kong and Canton, China
reg ard ed species o f shark

DOG FISH/CAPE SHARK S a ltw a te r fish . Averages 3 - 5 pounds. Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g ,
S m oo th skin; bro w n ish o r gray to p s id e ; fry in g , s a u te in g
w h ite underside; w h ite /g ra y s p o ts along
th e side o f th e body. S w e e t pink to
w h ite , firm fle s h

THRESHER SHARK S a ltw a te r fish ; fro m w arm , te m p e ra te ,
and tro p ic a l w a te rs. Averages 3 0 - 5 0
pounds. E asily id e n tifia b le by its
e x tre m e ly e lo n g a te d fin . S w e et pink
fle s h
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , fry in g ,
sau tein g. Shark fin is p o p u la r in Hong
Kong and China

SKATE/RAY S a ltw a te r fis h ; fo u n d in w a te rs Poaching, baking, fry in g , sau tein g

th ro u g h o u t th e U n ite d S ta te s . F la t
c re a tu re s re la te d to th e shark. Fin is
e d ib le p a rt o f th e fish , called “wings,"
p ro d u cin g 2 fille ts ; up pe r f ille t is
g e n e ra lly th ic k e r than lo w er one. W hite,
sw e et, fir m fle sh ; e x c e lle n t e a tin g fis h

c h a p te r 7 » F IS H A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 115
Other Fish

COMMON COOKING METHODS AND

NAME(S) DESCRIPTION
CULINARY USES

EEL A na dro m ous fis h . A m erican eel is B ro ilin g , fry in g , stew ing . E xcelle nt
s lig h tly sm a lle r European eel; fe m a le s sm oked
are la rg e r than m ales; fa rm raised in
China. S na ke-like shape. A vaila ble alive
o r w hole; b e s t q u a lity ju s t b e fo re jo u rn e y
to spawn; H ig h -fa t, fir m fle s h

AM ERICAN CATFISH F re s h w a te r fis h ; fo u n d m o s tly in Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g ,

so u th e rn regions, though v a s t m a jo rity steam ing, stew ing , deep fry in g , pan
is fa rm raised. C om m only sold headless fry in g , sm oking
and skinless. F ille ts average 6 - 1 2
ounces. L o w -fa t, fir m fle sh ; m ild fla v o r

ANCHOVY S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m C a lifo rn ia , S outh
A m erica, th e M e d ite rra n e a n , and Europe;
over 20 species are recognized as
anchovies. B e st less than 4 inches in
length. S ilv e r skin. S o ft, fla v o r fu l fle s h
Fresh w hole: deep fry in g , pan fry in g ,
sm oking, m a rin a tin g . A lso m arke te d
s a lt-cu re d , canned (packed in oil),
dried . Used as a fla v o rin g a d d itiv e
and garnish

SARDINE S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m Spain, Portugal,
and Ita ly. S ardines are recognized as a
species o f sm all herring. A vaila ble w hole
o r dressed; b e s t less tha n 7 inches in
length. S ilv e ry skin. D e lica te f a t t y fle s h
B ro ilin g , g rillin g , deep fry in g ,
m a rin a tin g . A lso m a rke te d salted,
sm oked, o r canned

JOHN DORY/ST. PETER'S
FISH (IN EUROPE)
S a ltw a te r fish ; fro m th e ea stern Poaching, g rillin g , sau tein g
A tla n tic , Nova S cotia, the
M e d ite rra n e a n . B lack sp o ts w ith a
go ld en halo on each side o f body. Firm ,
b rig h t w h ite fle sh ; d e lic a te ly m ild fla v o r;
fin e fla k e

T IL A P IA /M U D FISH N a tive to A fric a ; fa rm e d around the Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g ,

w o rld . Four to 18 inches long; m a rke te d ste a m in g
around 1 to 2 pounds. H yb rid ize d to
achieve red, black, o r go ld en skin;
d is tin g u is h e d by th e in te rru p tio n along
its la te ra l line. O ff-w h ite to p in k fle sh ;
ve ry m ild fla v o r

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
 shellfish
shellfish
S h e llfish are a q ua tic anim als p ro te c te d by some s o rt Q U A L I T Y I N D I C AT OR S
o f carapace (shell). Based on s k e le ta l s tru c tu re , the y
W hen purchasing live sh e llfish , look f o r signs o f m ove­
are segm ented in to fo u r d is tin c t cate gories: univalves
m ent. L o b ste rs and crabs should move about. Clams,
(sin gle -she lle d m ollusks), bivalves (m ollusks w ith tw o
mussels, and o y s te rs should be tig h tly closed, but as
shells jo in e d by a hinge), crustaceans (jo in te d e x te rio r
th e y age, th e y w ill begin to open, and should close when
ske le to n s or shells), and cephalopods (m ollusks w ith
tou ched . Any shells th a t do not snap shut when tap ped
te n ta c le s a tta ch e d d ire c tly to th e head).
should be discarded; th is means th a t th e fis h are dead.
M olluska n s h e llfis h should have a sweet, sea-like aroma.
M A R K E T F OR MS

S h e llfish are ava ila ble fre s h and fro z e n in variou s fo rm s. STORAGE
Fresh sh e llfis h are ava ila ble live, shucked as ta ils , cock­
Crabs, lo b ste rs, and o th e r live sh e llfis h should be
ta il claws, and legs and claws. Frozen sh e llfis h are also
packed in seaweed o r dam p paper upon delivery. If a
available shucked as ta ils , c o c k ta il claws, and legs and
lo b s te r ta n k is n o t available, th e y can be sto re d d ire c tly
claws.
in th e ir sh ip p in g c o n ta in e rs o r in p e rfo ra te d pans a t 39°
Shucking is th e rem oval o f a m o llu s k s m eat fro m
to 4 5 °F /4 ° to 7°C u n til th e y are to be prepared. Do not
th e shell; th e shucked m a rke t fo rm is sold as m eat only,
allow lo b s te rs or crabs to come in to d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith
along w ith n a tu ra l ju ic e s known as liquor. M ollusks
fre s h w a te r, as it w ill k ill them .
such as o yste rs, clam s, and m ussels may be available
Clams, m ussels, and o yste rs purchased in the shell
shucked. S callops are nearly alw ays sold shucked, a l­
should be s to re d in th e bag in w hich th e y w ere d e liv ­
though th e re is a g ro w in g m a rk e t f o r scallops th a t are
ered o r in p e rfo ra te d pans. They should n o t be iced, but
live and on th e h a lf-s h e ll w ith roe.
should be s to re d a t a te m p e ra tu re betw een 35° and
4 0 °F /2 ° and 4°C. The bag should be closed tig h tly and
lig h tly w e ig h te d to keep th e sh e llfis h fro m opening.

c h a p te r 7 » FISH A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 117
 molluskan shellfish

BELON O YS TER S CH ER RYSTO N E C LA M S

TO PN ECK C LA M S
KUM AM OTO O YS TER S

CO CKLE C LA M S

RA Z O R C LA M S

S EA URCHINS

F A N N Y BAY O YSTER S

G EO DUCK CLAM

S EA S C A LLO P S

M A LPE Q U E O YSTER S

BAY S C A LLO P S
GREEN M U S S ELS

BLU E M U S S E L S

FLORIDA O YSTER S

118 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 molluskan shellfish
Molluskan Shellfish
COMMON COOKING METHODS
NAME(S) DESCRIPTION
AND CULINARY USES

univalves

ABALONE G a stro p o d m ollusk; fo u n d along th e P a cific G rillin g , sauteing. M a rin a te d

coast; also fa rm raised in C a lifo rn ia , Chile,
and Japan. F arm -raised averages 3 inches in
diam e te r. Encased in side round, oval shell.
A vaila ble w h ole o r in stea ks; fre s h o r fro z e n

SEA U R CHIN/UN I Found in oceans around th e w o rld ; o fte n Baking. In sushi; as fla v o rin g in
gro up ed w ith m o llu sks f o r m a rke tin g , b u t sauces
are tru e echinoderm s. Hard, da rk pu rp le shell
covered w ith spines. The green v a rie ty is
th e m o s t popular. H a rve ste d f o r in te rn a l roe
(uni), w hich ranges fro m b rig h t red to orange
to ye llo w in co lo r; fir m te x tu re th a t m e lts
in you r m outh; sw e e t fla v o r; co n sid ered a
de lica cy

CONCH/SCUNGILLI G a stro p o d m ollusk; indigenous to th e In salads, ceviche, chowders,

Caribbean and th e F lorida Keys, also fa rm f r it t e r s
raised in th e Caribbean and F lorida. A vaila ble
o u t o f shell o r ground. Conch fro m w arm
w a te r is large and sw e et. S cu n g illi fro m cold
w a te r is sm all and n o t as sw e et

W H ELK/C H AN N EL G astro p o d m ollusk; fo u n d in sha llo w w a te r M a rin a te d ; in salads and ceviche

W HELK along East C oast fro m M a ssa ch u se tts to
n o rth e rn F lorida; large sea snail used m ainly
in Europe and Korea. A vaila ble fre s h or
cooked, pre se rve d in vinegar, and canned

LAND SNAIL/ESCARG OT G a stro p o d m ollusk; ab un da nt in m o s t p a rts Baking, b o ilin g , b ro ilin g

o f th e w o rld ; fa rm raised in C a lifo rn ia . A ir
b re a th in g . A vaila ble fre s h o r canned

PERIW INKLE G a stro p o d m ollusk; fo u n d along A tla n tic B oiling, sau tein g
coa sts o f Europe and N o rth A m erica,
e sp e cia lly New England. S m ooth, conical
s p ira l shell w ith 4 w h o rls; o u te r she ll is
gray to d a rk green w ith red dish bands th a t
e n circle it

c h a p te r 7 » F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H I D E N T IF IC A T IO N 119
 Molluskan Shellfish, continued
COMMON COOKING METHODS
NAME(S) DESCRIPTION
AND CULINARY USES

bivalves

Q U AH O G C LA M H a rd -sh e lle d clam; fro m cold n o rth e rn Baking, steam ing, stew ing. In
w a te rs. Sizes include (s m a lle s t to la rg e st) chow der; sm a lle r sizes eaten on
little n e c k , to p n e ck, c h e rrysto n e , chowder. th e h a lf-s h e ll
Sold as co u n t per 60 -p o u n d bushel

RAZO R/ATLANTIC H a rd -sh e lle d clam; fo u n d in sha llo w w a te rs Baking, stea m ing , stew ing , deep
JAC KKN IFEC LAM along th e East Coast. Shaped like a razor fry in g . In f r it te r s
w ith sharp edges. D iffic u lt to s to re o u t o f
w a te r; q u ickly dehyd rates, le avin g shells dry
and b r ittle

SO FT-SH ELLED / S o ft-s h e lle d clam; fo u n d in sha llo w w a te rs S team ing, bre a d in g and deep
IPSW ICH/HORSE C L A M / in th e Chesapeake, M aine, M a ssa ch u se tts, fry in g
STEAMER and e n tire P a cific coast. Le ng th y gray, s o ft,
b r itt le shell. Neck o r siphon covered by th in
skin. Can be sandy unless de p u ra te d . Sw eet
fla v o r

GEODUCK CLAM H a rd -sh e lle d clam; fo u n d along th e W est Baking, stea m ing , sauteing. In
C oast, also fa rm raised in th e P a cific f r it te r s , chowder, sushi, and
N o rth w e s t. Can reach 9 inches in length ceviche
and 10 pounds, tho ugh m o st are m a rke te d
a t 3 - 4 pounds; la rg e s t clam fo u n d in N o rth
A m erica. G ra yish -w h ite , rin ge d shell. Neck is
e x c e p tio n a lly long in re la tio n to shell

M A N ILA /W E S T COAST H a rd -sh e lle d clam ; fo u n d in th e P acific. Baking, steam ing. In stew s
LITTLE N E C K C LA M S lig h tly elon gate d, g ra y is h -w h ite shell w ith
d a rk black m arkings. Can g ro w up to 3 inches
in le ng th

COCKLE C om m ercially valuable in Asia, the U nited Baking, steam ing; to o sm all to
S tates, and Europe; large reso urce fro m be used shucked
B ritis h Colum bia, G reenland, and F lorida.
Sm all; w h ite to green shell

BLUE M USSEL Found in te m p e ra te w a te rs o f th e n o rth e rn Baking, steam ing. In stew s

and so u th e rn hem ispheres; fa rm raised in
M aine, Nova S cotia , Prince Edw ard Island,
and Spain. Averages 2 - 3 inches long. Dark
blue shell. S lig h tly sw e e t fla v o r

GREEN M USSEL Found in coa stal, tro p ic a l w a te rs o f the Baking, steam ing. In stew s
In d o -P a c ific region; also fa rm raised in
New Zealand. A vaila ble live, h a lf-s h e ll, and
shucked. Averages 3 - 4 inches long. Green
shell. S lig h tly sw e e t fla v o r

120 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 molluskan shellfish
COMMON COOKING METHODS
NAME(S) DESCRIPTION
AND CULINARY USES

EAST COAST OYSTER From th e N o rth e a s t, V irg in ia , and G ulf Baking, b a tte r fry in g , g rillin g ,
coasts. A vaila ble w ild and fa rm raised; sau tein g, steam ing, roa sting .
grow n w h ile subm erged u n d e rw a te r. M o s t On th e to p h a lf-sh e ll. In soups,
com m o nly sold o y s te r in th e U n ite d S ta te s. stew s, s tu ffin g s , a p p e tize rs
S m oo th h a lf-s h e ll; shell on to p and b o tto m .
V a rie tie s include M alpeque, C hincoteague,
and F lorida

JAPANESE/W EST COAST Grown u n d e rw a te r a t high tid e and o u t o f Baking, b a tte r fry in g , g rillin g ,
OYSTER w a te r a t low tid e . S callo ped shell. K um am oto sauteing, steam ing. On th e h a lf­
is a p o p u la r v a rie ty shell. In soups, stew s, s tu ffin g s ,
a p p e tize rs

EUROPEAN FLAT N a tive to Europe; seen o f f c o a s t o f M aine. Baking, b a tte r fry in g , g rillin g ,
OYSTER A vaila ble w ild and fa rm raised. Round, f la t sau tein g, steam ing, roa sting .
shell. P rized f o r its re m a rka b le fla v o r and Belon o y s te rs should n o t be
te x tu re . V a rie tie s include Belon, M arennes, cooked. On th e h a lf-sh e ll.
and H e lfo rd In soups, stew s, s tu ffin g s ,
a p p e tize rs

PACIFIC /O LYM PIA N a tive W est C o ast oyste r. Sm all; less tha n 3 Baking, b a tte r fry in g , g rillin g ,
OYSTER inches in d ia m e te r; less cupped tha n ea ste rn sauteing, steam ing. On h a lf­
v a rie tie s . D is tin c t m in eral a fte rta s te shell. In soups, stew s, s tu ffin g s ,
a p p e tize rs

BAY/CAPE COD/LONG Found fro m M a ssa ch u se tts to N o rth B ro ilin g , g rillin g , poaching,
ISLAND SCALLOP C arolina. S m all com pared to sea v a rie ty . Bay stew ing , sau tein g
h a rve stin g in fa ll and w in te r; hand raking;
shucked on shore. S old fre s h (lim ite d live
m a rke t), n o t fro ze n . C ream y iv o ry to pink.
Very sw eet; O fte n con sid ered th e be st
ta s tin g

SEA SC ALLO P/DIVER Found fro m th e G u lf o f M aine to N o rth B ro ilin g , g rillin g , poaching,
SCALLOP Carolina; also fa rm raised (lim ite d m arke t). stew ing , sau tein g
C om m only fro ze n ; fre s h a va ila ble year
round. Can be up to 8 inches in diam e te r.
Brow n shell. "D ive r sca llo p " in d ic a te s hand
h a rvestin g; m ore m o is tu re and less g r it than
th o se dredged; m ore u n ifo rm in size. S w eet,
m o is t fle sh , n o t as te n d e r as bay v a rie ty

CALICO SCALLOP Found fro m C arolinas to S ou th A m erica, on B ro ilin g , g rillin g , poaching,

A tla n tic and G u lf o f M exico coasts. A vaila ble stew ing , sau tein g
yea r-rou nd. Sm all, less tha n 3 inches. Flesh is
d a rk e r than bay v a rie tie s ; fla v o r and te x tu re
in fe rio r to bay v a rie tie s

c h a p te r 7 » F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 121
cephalopods

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
 n
a>
Id
Cephalopods t r
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND
NAME(S) DESCRIPTION
CULINARY USES
o
id
SQ U ID /C ALAM AR I In v e rte b ra te ; fo u n d along th e East and Baking, bo iling , b ro ilin g , deep
o
W est Coasts. Changes c o lo r o f skin fo r fry in g , pan fry in g , s tir-fry in g ,
p ro te c tio n ; ink used to con fuse p re d a to r. sauteing. Ink used to co lo r pasta CL
GO
A verages 7 inches in length. A vaila ble and rice
fre s h , cleaned, in rings o r tub es, and fro ze n .
S lig h tly firm te x tu re when cooked p ro p e rly;
m ild, sw e e t fla v o r

OCTOPUS Found in shallow and deep w a te rs o f B oiling. W hen sm all, deep fry in g ,
C a lifo rn ia and A laska; also A tla n tic and g rillin g , sau tein g
A rc tic regions fro m th e English Channel to
Berm uda. Ranges in size fro m a fe w ounces
(baby) to over 1 0 0 pounds. S o ft bodied;
bloo d is blue; eyes on b o th sides o f head; 8
arm s, w ith 2 row s o f su ctio n cups on each.
M ild fla vo r, te n d e r te x tu re when cooked
p ro p e rly

CUTTLEFISH Found in shallow co a sta l w a te rs fro m B oiling, steam ing, s tir-fry in g . In

Thailand, China, India, Spain, and P ortu gal. sushi, sashim i
E ig ht arm s, 2 long, n a rrow te n ta c le s . L ig h t
brow n w ith ze b ra -like s trip e s . S w eet, v e ry
te n d e r when cooked p ro p e rly ; b rig h t w h ite
fle s h

c h a p te r 7 » F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 1 23
 crustacean shellfish

124 TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN


Crustacean Shellfish
NAME(S)
M A IN E /N O R T H E R N /
NORTH AM ERICAN
LOBSTER
SPIN Y/R O C K LOBSTER
CRAYFISH/CRAW FISH
LA N G O U S TIN E/D U BLIN
BAY PRAW N/SCAM PI
W ARM WATER SHRIMP
COLD WATER SHRIMP
FRESHWATER SHRIM P
TIGER SHRIM P
crustacean
COMMON COOKING METHODS
DESCRIPTION
AND CULINARY USES
Found o f f A tla n tic co a st o f n o rth e rn U n ite d Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , poaching,
S ta te s, Canada, Europe (though sm aller). steam ing, s tir -fry in g
Can ta ke 8 years to reach m a rk e t size o f
shellfish
1 -2 pounds. Flesh is b rig h t w h ite w ith
red dish s tre a ks; firm , sw e et, d e lic a te
Found o f f F lorida, so u th e rn C a lifo rn ia , New Baking, g rillin g , poaching,
M exico, A u stra lia , New Zealand, South steam ing, s tir -fry in g
A fric a . A ll 10 legs are same size; has no
claws; fle s h is fo u n d in ta il. F irm fle sh , less
sw e e t than A m erican lo b s te r
Found in fre s h w a te r swam ps, creeks, B oiling, stea m ing
bayous; fa rm raised in Louisiana and F lorida;
im p o rte d fro m S o u th e a st Asia. A vaila ble
shucked, cooked and picked m eats. Deep
red shells, b rig h t red when cooked. S w eet,
w h ite , firm fle sh
Found in European, A tla n tic , and Poaching, bo iling , steam ing,
M e d ite rra n e a n w a te rs ; re la te d to spiny b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
lo b ste r. S lig h tly sw e e t and fla v o rfu l fle s h
Found in tro p ic a l w a te rs; m a jo rity o f U.S. Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g ,
catch ha rve ste d in South A tla n tic and G ulf en p a p illo te , g rillin g , sauteing,
o f M exico. Sold by size co u n t pe r pound. stea m ing , stew ing , poaching
C la ssifie d by shell co lo r: p ink (sw eet,
te n d e r); brow n (briny, firm ); w h ite (sw eet,
m ild). C o lor va rie s w id e ly based on h a b ita t
Found in th e N o rth A tla n tic and N o rth Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g ,
P acific. Sold by size co u n t per pound. en p a p illo te , g rillin g , sauteing,
C o nsid era bly sm a lle r and s o fte r tha n w arm stea m ing , ste w in g
w a te r v a rie tie s
Farm raised in H aw aii and C a lifo rn ia . Sold Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g ,
by size cou nt per pound. Up to 12 inches g rillin g , sauteing, stea m ing
long. Very s o ft, m ild fle s h
Found in th e South P acific, S o u th e a st Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g ,
A fric a , India; fa rm raised in Asia. Sold by g rillin g , poaching, sauteing,
size co u n t pe r pound. G rayish -bla ck s trip e s ste a m in g
on g ra yish -b lu e shells; shell s trip e s tu rn
b rig h t red when cooked. W h ite fle s h w ith
orange if cooked peeled; red if cooked in the
shell. M ild, briny, s lig h tly bland fla v o r
c h a p te r 7 » F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 125
 Crustacean Shellfish, continued
COMMON COOKING METHODS :
NAME(S) DESCRIPTION
AND CULINARY USES

ROCK S H R IM P /H A R D - Found fro m so u th e a s te rn U n ite d S ta te s Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g ,

SHELLED SHRIMP to th e G u lf o f M exico. Sold peeled and by en p a p illo te , g rillin g , poaching,
cou nt per pound. F lavo r and te x tu re m ore sauteing, steam ing, ste w in g
like c ra w fish than o th e r shrim p

BLUE CRAB Found fro m Chesapeake Bay to th e G u lf Baking, broiling, deep frying ,
Coast. M ales have blue claws, fe m a le s have grillin g , poaching, sauteing,
re d d ish -b lu e ; b o th have long spine on each steam ing, stew ing
side o f da rk green shell. Should be alive
ju s t b e fo re cooking. S w eet, ten der, m o ist,
b u tte ry fle s h

SO FT-SH ELLC R AB
Blue crab th a t sheds its shell and is Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g , pan
h a rve ste d when s till s o ft; in season fro m fry in g , g rillin g , sauteing. In sushi
A p ril to m id -S e p te m b e r, peak in June and
ea rly July. A fte r cleaning, th e e n tire crab
may be eaten

JONAH CRAB Found fro m Prince Edw ard Island to Maine. Baking, bro iling , deep frying ,
Oval in shape. Has 2 stro n g , b la c k -tip p e d g rillin g , poaching, sauteing,
claws. S w eet, briny, s lig h tly s trin g y , firm steam ing, stew ing
fle s h

K IN G /A LA S K A KING Found in n o rth e rn P acific, m o st abundant Baking, broiling, deep frying ,

CRAB in A laska and Russia. Can reach 10 fe e t and g rillin g , poaching, sauteing,
w eigh 1 0 -1 5 pounds. V a rie tie s include red, steam ing, stew ing
b ro w n /g o ld e n , blue

DUNGENESSCRAB Found along th e P a cific co a st fro m Alaska Baking, bro iling , deep frying ,
to M exico. Averages l V i - 3 pounds. g rillin g , poaching, sauteing,
R e dd ish-b row n shell, w h itish -o ra n g e steam ing, stew ing
underside. Flesh is m ild and sw e e t

SNO W CRAB Found in A laska and e a ste rn Canada.
A verages 5 pounds. Oval shaped; 4 pairs
o f sle n d e r legs, 2 s h o rte r claw s in fro n t.
W h ite fle s h tin g e d w ith pink; sw eet, s lig h tly
strin g y , less fla v o rfu l than king crab
Baking, bro iling , deep frying ,
g rillin g , poaching, sauteing,
steam ing, stew ing

126 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

fruit, vegetable,
and fresh herb
identification
Fruits, vegetables, and herbs have always been an important part of
the human diet, but today consumers are more aware than ever of the
important role these foods play in maintaining overall health and fitness
This chapter provides professional chefs with the information they need

to take full advantage of the abundance of fresh produce now a v a ila b ly

including tips on availability, determination of q u a l i t y . ^ ^ ^ H
proper storage, and culinary uses.
 general guidelines
SELECTION O rganic fo o d is produced w ith o u t th e use o f m ost
con ven tion al p e sticid e s, s y n th e tic fe rtiliz e rs , sewage
F ruits, vegetables, and herbs should be in good con di­
sludge, fe rtiliz e r, bioengineering, o r ionizing rad ia tion.
tio n , tho ugh w h a t c o n s titu te s a fa vo ra b le appearance
In o rd e r f o r a p ro d u c t to be labeled "organic," a g o vern­
varies fro m one ite m to another. In general, fr u its and
m en t-a p p ro ve d c e r tifie r m ust in sp e ct w here th e fo o d is
veg etab le s should be fre e o f bruises, m old, brow n or
grow n and processed to ensure th a t USDA organic s ta n ­
s o ft spots, and p e st damage; th e y should have colors
dards are adhered to.
and te x tu re s a p p ro p ria te to th e ir typ e ; and any a tta ch e d
H yd rop onic crops are grow n in n u trie n t-e n ric h e d
leaves should not be w ilte d . F ru its should be plum p, not
w a te r ra th e r tha n soil. H ydroponic gro w in g ta ke s place
shrivele d. S p e cific in fo rm a tio n on p a rtic u la r typ e s o f
in do ors under re g u la te d te m p e ra tu re and light, so any
produce is given in th e s e ctio n s below.
g ro w in g season may be d u plicated . Today, hyd rop oni-
cally grow n le ttu ce s, spinach, herbs, and to m a to e s are
PRODUCTION METHODS
all re a d ily available. A ltho ug h th e y have th e advantage
F oodservice o p e ra tio n s w ie ld purchasing pow er th a t can o f being easy to clean, the se p ro d u cts may have a less
be used to s u p p o rt or discourage s p e c ific a g ric u ltu ra l pronounced fla v o r than fr u its and veg etab le s grow n in
p ra ctices. You may w ish to con sid er several a g ricu ltu ra l th e soil.
p ro d u c tio n and tre a tm e n t m etho ds when purchasing
in gre die nts. AVAILABILITY AND SEASONALITY
A g ric u ltu ra l b io te ch n o lo g y includes a m u ltitu d e o f
P rio r to th e increase in a g ric u ltu ra l p ro d u c tio n and d is­
s c ie n tific tech niq ue s th a t are used to crea te , im prove,
trib u tio n tech nolog y, chefs were lim ite d to lo cally grown
o r m o d ify plants. For hundreds o f years, s c ie n tis ts have
seasonal f r u its and vegetables. Though fo o d e s ta b lis h ­
im proved pla n ts f o r human b e n e fit using con ven tion al
m ents are no longer bound to buy local produce, it is s till
tech niq ue s such as se le ctive breeding. However, con­
a fa vo ra b le p ra ctice if and when possible. It is im p o rta n t
v e n tio n a l bre e d in g m ethods can be tim e consum ing and
to s u p p o rt th e local g row ers. M oreover, so-called bou­
inaccurate. Through g e n e tic engineering, s c ie n tis ts are
tiq u e fa rm e rs m ay have sp e c ia lty produce (such as w ild
now able to is o la te genes fo r a d e sira ble t r a it and tra n s ­
le ttu ce s, golden beets, and ye llo w to m a to e s) th a t is not
fe r the m to o th e r organism s, re s u ltin g in g e n e tic a lly
available th ro u g h large com m e rcial purveyors. A n o th e r
m o d ifie d organism s (GMOs) th a t, fo r exam ple, have
advantage to buying lo ca lly is th a t the fla v o r and co n d i­
higher re sista n ce to disease.
tio n o f th e fo o d s are o fte n sup erior; lo cally grow n sw eet
Irra d ia tio n is a fo o d s a fe ty te ch n o lo g y used to k ill
corn, a p rico ts, peaches, and s tra w b e rrie s th a t have not
pa thog en ic organism s and exte nd s h e lf life . S im ila r to
been shipped are ju s t a fe w exam ples. Conversely, th e re
the p a s te u riz a tio n o f m ilk and pressure p ro cessing o f
are ite m s th a t ship p a rtic u la rly w ell. Exam ples include
canned goods, tre a tin g fo o d s w ith io nizing ra d ia tio n
asparagus, head le ttu ce s, bro ccoli, apples, and citru s
(also known as co ld p a s te u riz a tio n ) can k ill b a cte ria th a t
fru its .
m ig h t o th e rw ise cause fo o d -b o rn e illness.
S ustainable a g ric u ltu re p e rta in s to a g ric u ltu ra l p ro ­
STORAGE
d u ction and d is trib u tio n system s th a t fo cu s on p ro v id ­
ing a p ro fita b le fa rm incom e w h ile p ro m o tin g e n viro n ­ Once th e produce has been received, fo llo w in g certain
m en ta l stew a rdsh ip. Key p ra ctice s include renew ing and storag e gu id eline s can ensure th a t its q u a lity rem ains
p ro te c tin g soil f e r t ilit y and th e n a tural resource base; high. M o s t fo o d s e rv ic e e sta b lish m e n ts s to re produce
im p ro vin g the use o f o n -fa rm resources; and m in im izing fo r no m ore than th re e o r fo u r days, although length o f
th e use o f nonrenew able resources. S ustainable fa rm in g storag e depends on the business’s volum e, th e available
s triv e s to p ro m o te o p p o rtu n itie s in fa m ily fa rm in g and storag e fa c ilitie s , and d e liv e ry frequ en cy. It is ideal to
fa rm com m u nitie s. S ustainable pra ctice s include im p le ­ le t th e pu rveyo r handle th e produce as long as possible,
m e n tin g s ystem s to stem soil erosion and m etho ds such to help ensure th a t you use the fre s h e s t p ro d u c t pos­
as in te g ra te d p e st m anagem ent and fie ld te rra cin g . sib le and n o t overload you r valuable storag e space.

128 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

 W ith a fe w exce ptio ns (bananas, to m a to e s, p o ­
ta to e s , d ry onions), rip e fr u its and veg etab le s should
be re frig e ra te d . Unless o th e rw is e s p e cifie d , produce
should be k e p t a t a te m p e ra tu re o f 4 0 ° to 4 5 °F /4 ° to
7°C, w ith a re la tiv e h u m id ity o f 8 0 to 90 pe rcen t. The
ideal s itu a tio n is to have a sep ara te w a lk-in o r reach-in
re frig e ra to r fo r fr u its and vegetables.
M o s t fr u its and ve g e ta b le s should be k e p t dry, be ­
cause excess m o is tu re can p ro m o te spoilage. T h ere fore,
m o st produce should n o t be peeled, washed, or trim m e d
u n til ju s t b e fo re use. The o u te r leaves o f le ttu ce , fo r
exam ple, should be le ft in ta c t; c a rro ts should rem ain
unpeeled. The exce ptio ns to th is rule are th e le a fy to p s
on ro o t v eg etab le s such as beets, tu rn ip s , ca rro ts , and
radishes. They should be rem oved and e ith e r discarded
or used im m e d ia te ly, because even a fte r harvesting,
th e leaves absorb n u trie n ts fro m th e ro o t and increase
m o istu re loss.
F ru its and ve g e ta b le s th a t need fu rth e r ripening,
n o ta b ly peaches and avocados, should be s to re d at
room te m p e ra tu re , 65 ° to 7 0 °F /1 8 ° to 21°C. Once the
produce is ripe, it should be re frig e ra te d so th a t it does
not becom e overripe.
fruits
F ruits are the ovaries th a t surround or contain the seeds
o f plants. C ustom arily used in sw eet dishes, fru its are
also excellent w ith savory item s, such as p o ta to latkes
vegetables
Vegetables are th e ro o ts, tu b e rs, stem s, leaves, le a f
stalks, seeds, seedpods, and flo w e r heads o f pla n ts th a t
may be s a fe ly eaten. V egetables com m only include a
num ber o f fo o d s th a t are b o ta n ic a lly c la s s ifie d as fru its ,
herbs
Herbs are th e leaves o f a ro m a tic plants, used p rim a rily
to add fla v o r to fo o d s. A rom a is a good in d ic a to r o f q u a l­
ity in b o th fre s h and d rie d herbs. They should have even
color, h e a lth y -lo o k in g leaves and stem s, and no w iltin g ,
brow n spo ts, sunburn, or p e s t damage.
Fresh herbs should be m inced or cu t in c h iffo n a d e
as close to service tim e as possible. They are usually
added to a dish to w a rd th e end o f the coo kin g tim e . For
c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
C e rta in fru its , in clu d in g apples, bananas, and m el­
ons, e m it high am ounts o f e th ylen e gas as th e y s it in
storage. E thylene gas can acce le rate rip en ing in unripe
fru its , b u t can also p ro m o te spoilage in fr u its and vege­
ta b le s th a t are alrea dy ripe. For th is reason, unless they
are being used d e lib e ra te ly as a rip en ing agent, high
e th y le n e -p ro d u c in g fr u its should be sto re d separately.
When sep ara te sto ra g e space is unavailable, place
e th y le n e -p ro d u c in g fr u its in sealed containers.
Some fr u its and veg etab le s, including onions, garlic,
lemons, and m elons, give o f f odors th a t can perm eate
o th e r fo o d s. D airy p ro d u c ts are p a rtic u la rly suscep­
tib le to o d o r a b s o rp tio n and should alw ays be sto re d
away fro m fr u its and veg etab le s. C ertain fru its , such as
apples and che rries, also absorb odors. They to o should
be w ell w ra pp ed or sto re d separately.
M any f r u its and veg etab le s begin to d e te rio ra te a f­
te r th re e o r fo u r days. A lth o u g h c itru s fru its , m ost ro o t
veg etab le s, and hard squashes have a longer storage
life , m o st re s ta u ra n ts do n o t hold even the se ite m s fo r
m ore than tw o to th re e weeks.
and g rille d pork chops. F ru it is w o nd erful served alone as
a refresh in g b re a kfa st or the fina le to a meal. Dried fru its
fin d th e ir way in to com potes, s tu ffin g s, and sauces.
such as to m a to e s . T heir cu lin a ry a p p lica tio n is th e g u id ­
ing p rin c ip le f o r placin g the m in th is se ctio n ra th e r than
th e previous one.
uncooked p re p a ra tio n s, fre s h herbs should be added
w e ll in advance o f serving.
In general, herbs should be sto re d lo ose ly w rapped
in dam p p a p e rto w e ls and re frig e ra te d . If desired, place
th e w ra pp ed herbs in p la s tic bags to help re ta in m ois­
tu re and reduce w iltin g and d is c o lo ra tio n o f leaves. It is
a good idea to label th e herbs, so th e y are easy to locate.
 apples Apples are perhaps America’s favorite fruit.
According to surveys from the International Apple Insti­
tute, apples account for nearly 14 percent of all tree fruits
sold in this country. Apples range in color from yellow to
green to red, and colors in between. Different varieties
of apples have particular characteristics. Some are best
eaten out of hand, others are considered best for pies
and baking, and still others are selected for their ability
to cook down into a rich, smooth puree for applesauce.
For cider, a blend of apples is usually chosen, to give the
finished drink a full, well-balanced flavor.
Select firm apples that have a smooth skin with no
bruising, though rough brown spots are acceptable.
Apples can be held in climate-controlled cold storage
for many months without significant loss of quality.
Dried apples, prepared applesauce, apple juice (bottled
or frozen concentrate), cider, spiced or plain pie fill­
ings, and a host of other prepared items made from
apples can also be purchased.
The flesh of many apples will begin to turn brown
once they are cut open and come in contact with air.
Dousing them in acidulated water (water with a little
lemon juice) will help prevent browning but may not be
desirable if a pure apple taste is important. The follow­
ing table covers a selection of apple varieties.

STAYM AN W INESAP MCINTOSH NORTHERN S P Y CO RTLAN D H O N EYCRISP

CAM EO G ALA GOLDEN DELICIOUS G R A N N Y SMITH M AC0UN CO X ORANGE PIPPIN

130 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 P

Apples
S "
VARIETY* DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES in

CRABAPPLE Sm all. Red. Y ellow or w h ite ve ry hard Cooked in sauces, je llie s , jam s,
fle sh . T art relishe s

GOLDEN DELICIOUS Y e llo w ish -gree n skin w ith fre c k lin g . Eaten o u t o f hand. A ll-p u rp o se
Crisp, ju icy. S w eet. S tays w h ite a fte r
c u ttin g lo n g e r tha n o th e r v a rie tie s

GRANNY SMITH Green skin. E x tre m e ly crisp, fin e ly Eaten o u t o f hand. In sw e et and
te x tu re d w h ite fle sh . Tart. S tays w h ite savory p re p a ra tio n s. In pies
a fte r c u ttin g lo ng er tha n o th e r v a rie tie s

MCINTOSH P rim a rily red, s tre a k e d w ith ye llo w or Eaten o u t o f hand. In sauces, cider.
green. Flesh is v e ry w h ite . S e m i-ta rt

NORTHERN SPY Red skin stre a ke d w ith yellow . Crisp, E xce lle n t in pies
firm , ju ic y . S w e e t-ta rt

RED DELICIOUS B rig h t red spe ckle d w ith yellow . Flesh is Eaten o u t o f hand
y e llo w -w h ite . Firm . S w e et ta s te

ROME BEAUTY B rig h t red skin spe ckle d w ith yellow . G re a t f o r ba kin g w hole
Flesh is firm . M ild, ta rt-s w e e t

STAYMAN W INESAP D u sty red w ith w h ite spo ts. Flesh is firm A ll-p u rp o s e . In pies, sauces. Baking.
and crisp. Tart, a ro m a tic

CORTLAND S m ooth, shiny red skin. C risp te x tu re . A ll-p u rp o s e

S w e e t-ta rt. S tays w h ite a fte r c u ttin g
lo ng er than o th e r v a rie tie s

HONEYCRISP Yellow w ith good am o un t o f red blush. Eaten o u t o f hand. A ll-p u rp o se

Very crisp. Very sw e e t

GALA Peachy-red, spe ckle d w ith yellow . Crisp Eaten o u t o f hand

and ju icy. S w e et and z e sty

CAMEO D ull red, sp lo tch y, w ith som e ye llo w - A ll-p u rp o s e

brow n colorin g. S w e e t-ta rt fla v o r and
firm te x tu re

MACOUN Ranges fro m m aroon to green w ith dull Eaten o u t o f hand. A ll-p u rp o s e
red blush, som e w h ite spo ts. C risp and
ju ic y . S w e e t-ta rt

COX ORANGE PIPPIN G olden b ro w n ish-o rang e w ith green A ll-p u rp o s e

tin g e . C risp and ju icy. S lig h tly ta r t

There are many varieties of apples available only within small regions. These apples share eating and cooking characteristics with
those described here. If you have any questions, ask your purveyor or other reputable source for the best use for a particular variety.

ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 131

berries Berries tend to be highly perishable (with
the exception of cranberries) and are susceptible to
bruising, molding, and overripening in fairly short
order. Inspect all berries and their packaging carefully
before you accept them. Juice-stained cartons or juice
leaking through the carton is a clear indication that the
fruit has been mishandled or is old. Once berries begin
to turn moldy, the entire batch goes bad quickly.
When fresh berries are out of season, IQF (individu­
ally quick frozen) berries are often a perfectly fine sub­
stitute. Dried berries are a delicious addition to winter
fruit compotes, stuffings, or baked goods. The following
table covers a selection of berry varieties.

B LU EB ER RIES RA S PB ER R IE S CR AN BE R R IE S GO O SEBERRIES
(WITH AND WITHOUT H USK)

STRAW BERR IES B LA C K B ER R IES CU RR ANTS

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
 berries
Berries
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

BLACKBERRY Large. P u rp lish -b la ck. Juicy. C u ltiv a te d Eaten o u t o f hand. In baked goods,
and w ild ja m s

BLUEBERRY Sm all to m edium . B lu ish -p u rp le w ith Eaten o u t o f hand. In baked goods,

d u s ty s ilv e r-b lu e "bloom ." S m ooth, jam s. D ried. To fla v o r vinegars
round. Juicy fle sh . S w e et

CRANBERRY Sm all. Shiny red, som e w ith w h ite blush. G enerally cooked. In relishes, sauces,
Hard, dry. Sour je llie s , ju ices; in breads. Dried

GOOSEBERRY Sm all to m edium . Yellow to green G enerally cooked; in je llie s , pies,

a lm o s t tra n s p a re n t skin. Round, sm ooth. o th e r baked goods
Juicy. V ery t a r t

RASPBERRY C lu ste rs o f tin y f r u its (drupes), each Eaten o u t o f hand. In baked goods,
c o n ta in in g a seed; may have "h a irs ” on syrups, purees, sauces, cordials,
surface. Red, black, or golden. Juicy. syrups. Jams. To fla v o r vinegars
S w eet. D e w b e rry is a ty p e o f ra sp b e rry

STRAWBERRY Range o f sizes. Red. Shiny, h e a rt- Eaten o u t o f hand. Served w ith
shaped; seeds on th e e x te rio r. S w e et sh o rtca ke s. In baked goods, purees,
jam s, je llie s , ice cream

CURRANT Tiny, round fr u it. Range in co lo r fro m W h ite and red eaten o u t o f hand;
w h ite to red to black; s m o o th skin. black c u rra n ts used to make jam s,
S w e et je llie s , syrups, and liq u o rs such as
cassis

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 133

citrus fruits Citrus fruits are characterized by
extremely juicy, segmented flesh, and skins that contain
aromatic oils. Grapefruits, lemons, limes, and oranges
are the most common citrus fruits. They range dramati­
cally in size, color, and flavor.
Select citrus that is firm and heavy in relation to
its size, with no soft spots. Green hues or rough brown
spots generally do not affect the flavor or texture of the
fruit. For oranges, it is not necessary to select fruits
M E Y E R LEM O N
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
with brightly colored skins, as they are often dyed.
When selecting grapefruits, lemons, and limes, on the
other hand, look for brightly colored fruits with a finely
textured skin. Citrus can be stored at room temperature
for a short time, but should be refrigerated if being held
for an extended period. Citrus juice is available canned,
bottled, frozen, and as frozen concentrate. The table
that follows covers a selection of citrus varieties.
PINK G R APEFRU IT
LEMON PERSIAN LIME
 citrus fruits
Citrus Fruits
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

NAVEL ORANGE Orange skin, re la tiv e ly sm ooth. Eaten o u t o f hand. Juiced; zested.
Seedless. Sw eet Peel may be candied

BLOOD ORANGE Thin orange skin w ith blush o f red. Eaten o u t o f hand. Juiced. In sauces;
P ockets o f da rk red fle sh . A ro m a tic and as fla v o rin g agent
sw e e t and ta r t

M AND ARIN ORANGE Several v a rie tie s , ranging in size fro m Eaten o u t o f hand
ve ry sm all to m edium . S eedless o r w ith
seeds. T angerines and cle m e n tin e s are
M an da rin v a rie tie s

TANGERINE Orange; lig h tly pe bb led skin. M any E aten o u t o f hand. Juiced
seeds. Juicy. S w e et

TANGELO Orange; s lig h tly pe bb led skin. S lig h tly Eaten o u t o f hand. Juiced
ta p e re d at to p . Juicy. Sw eet

SEVILLE ORANGE T hick, rough skin. M any seeds. Tart, In m arm alade, sauce Bigarade,
b itte r, a s trin g e n t lique urs. Peel may be candied

LEMON Y ello w -gre en to deep ye llo w skin. Seeds. Juiced; zeste d. As fla v o rin g agent.
E x tre m e ly t a r t Peel may be candied

MEYER LEMON Round. S m oo th skin. S w eeter, less Juiced; zeste d. As fla v o rin g agent. In
acidic ju ic e than re g u la r lem ons baked goods. Peel may be candied

PERSIAN LIME D ark green, sm o o th skin. Seedless. T art Juiced; zeste d. As fla v o rin g agent.
Peel may be candied

KEY LIME Sm all; round. Y ello w ish -gree n. T art Juiced. As fla v o rin g agent. M o s t
fa m o u s use is Key lim e pie

W H ITE /R E D /P IN K Yellow skin, so m e tim e s w ith green Eaten o u t o f hand. Juiced; zested. As
GRAPEFRUIT blush. Flesh ranges fro m pale ye llo w fla v o rin g agent. Peel m ay be candied
to deep red. S w e e t-ta rt. Seedless
v a rie tie s ava ila ble

U N IQ /U G LI FRUIT H yb rid citru s . Y ellow -green, th ic k , loose, Eaten o u t o f hand

w rin k le d skin. Seedless. P in k-ye llo w
fle s h w ith ta n g y and sw e e t fla v o r

ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 135

 grapes Technically, grapes are berries, but because
they include so many varieties and have so many differ­
ent uses, they are usually grouped separately. There are
varieties of grapes, both with seeds and seedless, avail­
able for both eating and wine making.
Grapes vary greatly in color from pale green to deep
purple. Choose grapes that are plump and juicy, with
smooth skins that have a pale gray film (known as bloom).
Grapes should be firmly attached to their green stems.
There are varieties of grapes with skin that easily slips off
the fruit (Concord), and other varieties in which the skin
remains firmly intact (Thompson seedless). Grapes are
also dried to make raisins and currants.
C H A M P A G N E /B LA C K THOM PSON
CORINTH S EE D LES S
136 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
Store grapes, unwashed, in the refrigerator. Grapes
should be thoroughly washed and blotted dry just prior
to being eaten. Grapes are best served at room tempera­
ture. The following table covers a selection of grape
varieties.
Grapes from California will come into season in late
May for some red grapes, and June or July for Thomp­
son, and last into early December. Grapes in the eastern
United States have a shorter season, becoming available
in August and then gone by November. Imported grapes
are generally available year-round; almost all imported
grapes come from Mexico and Chile.
RED EM PER O R B LA C K CONCORD
 GTQ
P
Grapes ^
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES ;

THOMPSON SEEDLESS M edium size. Green, th in skin. Seedless. Table grape. A lso d rie d as raisins
Sw eet, m ild fla v o r

CONCORD B lue-black, th ic k skin slips ea sily fro m In ju ice s, jam s, je llie s , syrups, and
fle sh . S w e et fla v o r pre serve s

BLACK Large. Deep p u rple skin. U sually w ith Table grape

seeds. V ery sw e et fla v o r

RED EMPEROR L ig h t to deep red, w ith green stre a kin g ; Table grape
th in , tig h tly a d he ring skin. S w e e t fla v o r.
U sually w ith seeds

C H A M P A G N E /B LA C K V i-in c h dia m e te r. Red to lig h t purple. Table grape

CORINTH Seedless. Juicy and sw e e t

RED FLAM E H yb rid o f th e Thom pson grape. Seedless. Table grape, fre s h f r u it ta r ts
Round in shape. B rig h t, m e d iu m -re d
color. Firm crunch and sw e e t fla v o r

RUBY RED Seedless. E lo ng ated shape. Juicy and Table grape

sw e et

RED GLOBE Seeded. Large and round. Low in acid. Table grape
F a irly sw e e t

TOKAY Seeded. Elongated. Bland fla v o r Table grape

EMPEROR Seeded. Sm all and round. Low sugar, Table grape

bland, c h e rry -lik e fla v o r

RELIANCE Sm all. Pale red to go ld en in color. Very Table grape

fla v o rfu l

BLACK BEAUTY Seedless. Sm all and oblong. Rich, da rk Table grape

color. B rig ht, sw eet, spicy fla v o r

VENUS Seedless. Large and round. Rich, da rk Table grape

color. S w e et fla v o r; a s trin g e n t skin

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 137

 melons These succulent, fragrant fruits are
members of the gourd family, as are squashes and cu­
cumbers. They come in many varieties and range from
the size of an orange to that of a watermelon. The two
major categories of melons are the muskmelon and the
watermelon.
There are two kinds of muskmelons commonly
available, the cantaloupe type and the honeydew type.
Selecting melons and determining ripeness depends
greatly on the type. When selecting the cantaloupe-
type muskmelons, look for heavy fruits with a “full
slip”—that is, a clean break from the stem—signifying
HONEYDEW
CAN TALO U PE CAVAILLO N
138 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
that the melon ripened on the vine. When ripe, all
muskmelons should become slightly soft at the stem
end and give off a sweet scent. Muskmelons must be
seeded before they are eaten.
The mildly flavored watermelon varieties should be
symmetrical. Avoid those with flat sides, soft spots, or
damaged rinds. A ripe watermelon should have good
ground color, without any white on the underside. Un­
ripe melons should be stored in a cool, dark place; ripe
or cut melon should be kept under refrigeration. The
following table covers a selection of melon varieties.
S E E D LE S S W ATERM ELON
SANTA C LA U S
 m elons
Melons
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

muskmelons

CANTALOUPE Beige n e ttin g o r veinin g over su rfa ce o f Eaten o u t o f hand. Served w ith cured
skin. Flesh is pale orange, sm oo th , ju icy. m ea ts and cheeses. In ch ille d f r u it
Very sw e et and fra g ra n t soups

PERSIAN Large; ca n ta lo u p e -ty p e m uskm elon. Eaten o u t o f hand

D ark green skin w ith ye llo w n e ttin g .
B rig h t sa lm o n -co lo re d fle sh . S lig h tly
sw e et

HONEYDEW S om ew hat oval; ho ne yde w -typ e Eaten o u t o f hand. In chille d f r u it

m uskm elon. Cream y green rind, sm oo th soups; as garnish; de sserts
skin. P aste l green, ju ic y fle sh . V ery
sw e et

CASABA H o ne ydew -typ e m uskm elon. L ig h t green Eaten o u t o f hand

to ye llo w -g re e n skin w ith th ic k grooves.
C re am -colore d, ju ic y fle sh . M ild, clean,
re fre s h in g fla v o r

CRENSHAW Large oval-shaped ho ne yde w -typ e Eaten o u t o f hand

m uskm elon. Y ello w ish -gree n, sm ooth,
y e t rid g e d skin. S a lm o n -co lo re d fle sh ;
fra g ra n t, s p ic y . E x tre m e ly sw e e t

watermelons

WATERMELON Ranges fro m a large o b lo ng shape to a Eaten o u t o f hand. Rind is p ickled

sm all round shape. Skin is green w ith
lig h te r s trip e s . Rind is w h ite ; w a te ry
fle s h ranges fro m re d -p in k to ye llo w
to w h ite . Shiny black, brow n, o r w h ite
seeds; som e v a rie tie s are seedless.
S w e et and re fre s h in g

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 139

 pears This fruit comes in many varieties, ranging
from round to bell shaped, spicy to sweet, and yellow to
red. Unlike many other fruits, pears ripen after they are
picked. When pears are not fully ripened, they can have
granules in the flesh known as stone cells, which give
them an unpleasant sandy or gritty texture. This is a
positive characteristic because ripe pears are extremely
fragile and otherwise would not ship well. When choos­
ing pears, look for fruit that is mature and aromatic,
BO SC RED B A R T LET T / D’ANJO U
W ILLIAM
140 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
with no scuffing, bruises, pits, or shriveling in the skin
or neck. Keep unripe pears at room temperature, but
refrigerate them once they are ripe because the colder
temperatures will inhibit the ripening process. Like
apples, cut pears turn brown once they are exposed
to the air. Storing them in acidulated water will help
prevent browning, but may alter the true flavor of the
pear. The best uses for several varieties are given in the
following table.
SECKEL F O R ELLE ASIAN B A R T LET T /
W ILLIAM
 13
0 )
p
l-i
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

B A R T LE TT /W ILLIA M Large; bell shaped. Ranges fro m green to Eaten o u t o f hand. Poached. In
red; sm o o th skin. Juicy. Sw eet preserves. To fla v o r co rd ia ls

BOSC Large; long neck, sq u a t b o tto m . Dark, Eaten o u t o f hand. Poached, baked,
ru sse te d skin. S w e e t-ta rt canned

DANJOU Large; sq u a t all over. G re e n -ye llo w skin Eaten o u t o f hand. Poached, baked
w ith green speckles, can have a red
blush. S w e et

SECKEL Sm all. G olden skin w ith red blush. Poached, baked, canned
E x tre m e ly firm and crisp fle sh . S w e et
and spicy

FORELLE M edium . G olden w ith red blush and red Eaten o u t o f hand. Poached, baked
speckles. Juicy, crisp fle s h w ith sw e et
fla v o r

ASIAN Round. G olden orange skin w ith w h ite Eaten o u t o f hand. E xcelle nt in salads
speckles. Firm , crunchy, ju ic y fle sh . M ild
fla v o r

ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 141

 stone fruits Peaches, nectarines, apricots,
plums, and cherries are often referred to as stone fruits
because they have one large central pit (stone). These
fruits are usually divided into either “freestone” or
“clingstone” varieties. In a freestone fruit, as their name
suggests, the seed, or stone, more easily separates itself
from the flesh, whereas the clingstone pit more tightly
adheres to the flesh of the fruit. Because of their ease of
use, freestone varieties are more frequently utilized for
cooking purposes that require the removal of the stone.
In addition to their fresh form, these fruits are also
commonly available canned, frozen, and dried. Many
countries produce fruit brandies, wines, and cordials
flavored with peaches, cherries, and plums.
W H ITE P E A C H PEACH
142 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
Stone fruits are generally only available in the
summer months, except for some imports from South
America. They will soften once picked but not gain any
sweetness. Therefore, the fruit generally found in the
marketplace will have been picked while still very firm
or hard to facilitate shipping without incurring damage
to the soft, fully ripened fruit. Color is the best indica­
tor of a fruit that is fully matured before picking; look
for full and vibrantly colored fruit with no hint of green.
There should also be a full, sweet aroma indicative of
the flavor when the fruit is softened. The following
table covers a selection of stone fruit varieties.
fS
w
N E C T A R IN E PLUM IT A LIA N P L U M
 stone fruits
Stone Fruits
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

PEACHES M edium to large. Fuzzy skin, Eaten o u t o f hand. In jam s and

w h ite to ye llo w -o ra n g e to je llie s , ice cream , and de sserts.
red. Very ju ic y fle sh . Two Canned and d ried
c la s s ific a tio n s : fre e s to n e and
c lin g sto n e

APRICOTS M edium . Skin is s lig h tly fuzzy, Eaten o u t o f hand. In ja m s and

and ye llo w to g o ld -o ra n g e w ith je llie s , d e sse rts, ju ice. Dried
ro sy patches. D rie r tha n a peach.
S w eet, s lig h tly t a r t

NECTARINES Large. S m ooth ye llo w and red Eaten o u t o f hand. In salads and
skin. Firm b u t ju icy. S w e et cooked d e sse rts

CHERRIES Sm all. Ranges in shades fro m S w e e t v a rie tie s : eaten o u t

red to black; shiny skin. Firm o f hand. In baked goods and
fle sh . A vaila ble b o th sw e e t and syrups. D ried
sour Sour v a rie tie s : in pies,
preserves, and syrups. Dried

PLUMS Sm all to m edium ; oval to round. Eaten o u t o f hand. In baked

Skin ranges fro m green to red to goods, preserves. Some
purple. Juicy. Very sw e et v a rie tie s are d rie d as prunes

ITALIAN PLUMS Sm all; oval. Purple skin. Y ellow - Eaten o u t o f hand. In baked
green fle s h w ith ve ry sw e et goods, pre serve s
fla v o r and s lig h tly fir m fle s h

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB I D E N T IF IC A T IO N 143

 other fruits A wide variety of fruits fall in the fruits, such as the passion fruit, can be considered rare,
“others” group, as they do not fit cleanly into another while others are as common as the banana. The follow­
category. Some of these fruits are tropical, while others ing table provides information on these uncategorized
are grown in more temperate climates. Many of these fruits.

P IN EAPPLE

COCONUT

BANANAS

PAPAYA

AVOCADO

RH UBARB

KIWI

144 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 other fruits
Other Fruits
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

AVOCADO Pear shaped. Green to black le a th e ry skin, In salads, dips (guacamole),

sm oo th o r bum py. Y ello w ish -gree n, cream y, salsa. On sandw iches
b u tte r fle sh . M ild fla v o r

BANAN A Y ellow or red in e d ib le peel. S w eet, cream y fle s h Eaten o u t o f hand. In

puddings, baked goods, and
o th e r de sse rts

PLANTAIN Larger, s ta rc h ie r re la tiv e o f th e com m on banana. Eaten cooked a t all stages

Hard green peel when unripe; ye llo w to m o ttle d o f ripeness. E xcelle nt frie d ,
to a lm o st black when ripe. Flesh is p o ta to -lik e baked, mashed
fle s h when unripe; becom es in cre a sin g ly sw e et
and s o ft as it ripens

RHUBARB Long red sta lks, tin g e d w ith green; leaves are A lw ays eaten cooked. In pies,
poisonous. Crisp te x tu re ; s o fte n s when cooked. ta rts , and preserves
Sour, t a r t fla v o r

COCONUT Round. Hard, brown, ha iry husk. Firm , cream y, Eaten raw o r cooked. In sw eet
w h ite m eat; th in , w a te ry liq u id in th e center. and savory p re p a ra tio n s such
P rocessed in to coco nu t oil, co co n u t m ilk. D ry- as chutney, cake, curry
packaged sw e eten ed or unsw eetened, shre dd ed
o r fla k e d

FIG Sm all, round o r be ll shaped. S o ft, th in skin; Eaten o u t o f hand. Dried. In

ranges fro m p u rp le -b la c k to lig h t green. Tiny preserves. A ll fo rm s eaten
e d ib le seeds. E x tre m e ly sw eet. M o s t com m on w ith cheese
v a rie tie s are M ission and C alim yrna

GUAVA O val shape. Thin skin; ranges fro m ye llo w to red E xce lle n t fo r jam s, preserves,
to a lm o s t black when ripe. Flesh ranges fro m and sauces; guava paste
pale ye llo w to b rig h t red. E x tre m e ly sw e e t and served w ith cheese
fra g ra n t. C om m only a va ila ble fre s h in green,
unripe s ta te ; also a va ila ble canned, fro ze n , as
paste

KIWI Sm all, o b lo n g be rry. Fuzzy brow n skin. B rig h t Eaten o u t o f hand. E xcelle nt
green fle sh , d o tte d w ith tin y ed ib le black seeds. in sauces and so rb e ts
S o ft, sw eet, t a r t

MANGO Round to obtong-shape. Skin ranges fro m ye llo w E xce lle n t f o r sw e e t sauces
to green and red. C ontains a single large f la t and s o rb e ts as w e ll as in
seed. S w eet, s o ft, b rig h t y e llo w fle sh . A vaila ble chutneys. A lso used in its
fre sh , canned, fro ze n , as puree, nectar, dried . unripe, green fo rm in salads
M o s t com m on v a rie ty is Tom m y A tk in s

PINEAPPLE Large cylinder. Rough, d ia m o n d -p a tte rn e d yellow Eaten o u t o f hand. G rilled.

skin; long, sw o rd -like leaves s p ro u t fro m to p . Juiced. In baked goods
Available fresh, frozen, canned, candied, dried.
Com m only available v a rie tie s have e xtre m e ly
fra g ra n t, juicy, and sw e et b rig h t y e llo w fle sh

ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 145

 Other Fruits, continued
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

STAR F R U IT / Oval shaped; 3 - 5 inches long w ith 5 d is tin c tiv e Eaten o u t o f hand. In f r u it
CARAM BOLA rib s th a t e xte nd o u tw a rd fro m end to end. salads, de sserts. As a garnish
Yellow to green. C ro sscut slices resem ble
stars. S w eet, so m e tim e s m ild ly sour fla vo r,
re m in is c e n t o f a co m b in a tio n o f pineapple, kiw i,
and apple. Firm te x tu re d fle sh

PAPAYA Pear-shaped; ab ou t 6 inches long. G old en -yellow Eaten o u t o f hand, both

skin. C e nter c a v ity packed w ith black, round, rip en ed and in its green
ed ib le seeds. B rig h t pin kish -o ra n g e fle s h when s ta te ; unripe, in Asian salads.
ripe. F ragra nt, sw e et s ilk fle sh . A lso a va ila ble as Enzyme (papain) used to
nectar, puree, dried te n d e riz e m eat

POMEGRANATE A pple -shap ed ; fra g ra n t. B rig h t red, le a th e ry Eaten o u t o f hand, seeds only.
skin. C ontains hundreds o f tin y red fle s h - O fte n a garnish or pressed
covered ed ib le seeds, s e p a ra te d in to p a cke ts by f o r ju ice
th in cre a m -co lo re d m em branes. Juicy. Very t a r t
and sw e et. A lso ava ila ble as ju ic e c o n c e n tra te
and m olasses

PASSION FRUIT Egg-shaped; ab ou t 3 inches long. D im pled skin, E xce lle n t in d e sse rts and
da rk p u rple when ripe. E x tre m e ly fra g ra n t beverages
yellow , s w e e t-ta rt fle sh , fle c k e d w ith edible
black seeds. A vaila ble fre sh , pureed and frozen ;
also as canned n e cta r and co n ce n tra te

PERSIMMON Tom ato-shaped. M o s t com m o nly ava ila ble Eaten o u t o f hand. Hachiya
v a rie tie s : Hachiya and Fuyu. R ed-orange skin m u st be c a re fu lly ripened
and fle sh . S m ooth, cream y te x tu re when ripe b e fo re eaten; e x c e lle n t in
(Hachiya); s o ftly y ie ld in g like a to m a to (Fuyu). pies and puddings.
T angy-sw eet fla v o r. A vaila ble fre s h or pureed Fuyu eaten crisp or s o ft and
and fro z e n fu lly ripened; good in salads

QUINCE Looks and ta s te s s im ila r to an apple; has te x tu re M u s t be cooked b e fo re

s im ila r to a pear. Y ello w -skin . F lora l arom a when e ating. E xce lle n t in jam s,
ripe. C risp w h ite d ry fle sh ; tu rn s pink when je llie s , preserves, and baked
cooked. A s trin g e n t raw; sw e e t cooked. ite m s

QUINCE

146 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

cabbage family The cabbage (brassica) fam­
ily includes a wide range of vegetables. Some members
of this family, such as cauliflower and green cabbage,
are referred to as heading cabbages. Others, such as
bok choy, form loose heads, while other varieties do not
form a head, but are prized for their roots. Turnips
and rutabagas are also members of the brassica family, but
they are more commonly thought of as root vegetables.
The following table covers a selection of brassica varieties.

m '■
■

SA VO Y CABBAG E

RED CAB BAG E

B R U S S E LS SPROUTS

CAU LIFLO W ER

N A PA CA B BA G E

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 147

cabbage family, continued

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
 O

O "
Cabbage Family o "

VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

GTQ
BROCCOLI Deep green flo re ts , som e have purple Raw. S team ed, boiled, sauteed; rD
cast. Pale green, crunchy stem s baked in casseroles
p
BROCCOLI RABE/R A PIN I Deep green. Long, th in ste m s w ith sm all S team ed, braised; sauteed w ith olive
flo re ts ; le afy. S tron g, b itte r fla v o r oil, g a rlic, and crushed red pepper
fla k e s

"< !
BRUSSELS SPROUTS Round, cabbage shaped, sm all; a b o u t 1 S team ed, bo ile d, sauteed
inch in dia m e te r. L ig h t green. S tro n g fla v o r

BOK CHOY/CHINESE Loose head. Green to w h ite crisp stem s; Raw in salads. S tir-frie d , steam ed,
W HITE CABBAGE ten der, deep green leaves. M ild fla v o r b o ile d

GREEN CABBAGE T ig h t, round heading cabbage. L ig h t to Steamed, braised, sauteed. Ferm ented
m edium green. C risp te x tu re . S om ew hat in sa u e rk ra u t and kim chi. Raw in
s tro n g fla v o r salads and colesla w

RED CABBAGE T igh t, round heading cabbage. Deep S team ed, braised, sauteed. Raw in
p u rple to m aroon; ste m s on in d ivid u a l salads and colesla w
leaves are w h ite , g ivin g m arbled
appearance when cut. C risp te x tu re .
S om ew hat s tro n g fla v o r

NAPA/CHINESE E lo ng ated heading cabbage. Broad S team ed, braised, sauteed. Raw in
CABBAGE w h ite ste m s w ith lig h t to m edium green salads and colesla w
tip s . S o ft, w rin k ly leaves. M ild fla v o r

SAVOY CABBAGE M o d e ra te ly tig h t, round heading Raw. S team ed, braised, sauteed
cabbage. T extured, w rin k ly , da rk green
leaves. M ild fla v o r

CAULIFLOW ER W hite, green, o r purple flo w e rin g head Raw. S team ed, bo ile d, sauteed,
w ith green leaves. S om e w h at s tro n g ro a ste d ; baked in casseroles
fla v o r

KO HLRABI/CABBAGE Round, tu rn ip -s h a p e d bulb w ith stem s Raw. S team ed, boiled, s tir - fr ie d
TURNIP and leaves a tta ch e d . W h ite w ith purple
tin t. Tender. M ild ly sw e et

KALE Deep green, som e tim es w ith purple hues. S auteed, boiled, steam ed. In soups
R u ffle d leaves. M ild cabbage fla v o r

COLLARD GREENS Large, fla t, rounded green leaves. S team ed, sauteed, braised; boiled
S im ila r to cabbage and kale in fla v o r w ith a ham hock

TURNIP GREENS Broad, f la t green leaves. Tough, coarse Steam ed, sauteed, braised
te x tu re . S tro n g ly fla v o re d

BROCCOLINI B rig h t green, long s le n d e r s ta lk s w ith Steam ed, bo ile d, sauteed, g rille d
sm all flo re ts . Crunchy. M ild, sw eet;
ta s te s like a cross be tw ee n asparagus
and b ro c c o li

BABY BOK C H O Y/ Sm all v a rie ty o f bok choy. L ig h t green, B raised, s tir- fr ie d , steam ed. In soups
PAKCH O Y te n d e r leaves. C risp sta lks

ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 149

soft-shell squash, cucumber,
and eggplant Soft-shell squash, cucumber,
and eggplant are all vegetables that are picked when
they are immature to ensure a delicate flesh, tender
seeds, and thin skins. Soft-shell squash and eggplant
varieties cook rather quickly, while cucumbers are most
often eaten raw. Select soft-shell squashes, eggplants,
and cucumbers that are on the smaller side, firm,
brightly colored, and without bruising. These varieties
should all be refrigerated.

CHAYOTE
B A B Y PATTYPAN SQUASH

ENGLISH CU CU M B ER

ZUCCHINI

JAPAN ES E
EG G PLAN T

S T A N D A R D /PU R P LE EG G PLA N T

YELLO W
SQUASH

SQ UASH
BLO SSO M

K IR B Y CU CU M B ER WHITE EG G PLA N T

STAN D AR D /SLICIN G CU CU M B ER

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
 soft-shell squash, cucumber, and eggplant
Soft-Shell Squash, Cucumber, and Eggplant
VARIETY DESCRIPTION USES

soft-shell squash
PATTYPAN S m all to m edium d isk shape w ith scallop ed edge. S team ed, sauteed, frie d
L ig h t green to yellow , so m e tim e s spe ckle d or
s tre a ke d w ith da rk green. Tender. M ild fla v o r

CHAYOTE/M IRLITO N M edium to large pear shape. Ligh t green w ith deep S team ed, sauteed, s tir-frie d ,
"puckers" between halves. W hite flesh surrounding s tu ffe d and baked, frie d
one seed. M ild fla v o r

CROOKNECK Long, b e n t n a rrow neck a tta c h e d to a la rg e r base. S team ed, sauteed, frie d
Yellow skin, so m e tim e s w ith bum ps. L ig h t ye llo w
fle sh . D e lica te fla v o r

YELLO W E lo ng ated pear shape. Yellow skin. C re am -colore d S team ed, sauteed, frie d ,
fle sh . M ild fla v o r g rille d

ZUCCHINI N arrow , c y lin d ric a l shape. Green w ith fle c k s o f S team ed, sauteed, frie d ,
ye llo w o r w h ite . Cream y fle s h w ith green hue. M ild g rille d . In quick breads and
fla v o r f r it t e r s

SQUASH BLOSSOM S S o ft, ye llo w -o ra n g e flo w e rs w ith a green stem . Raw in salads. S tu ffe d , baked,
S qu ash -like fla v o r; m ild fla v o r sauteed, frie d . In fritta ta s , as
garnish

cucumbers
STANDARD/SLICING Long, narrow , ta p e rin g a t ends. Thin green skin, P ickled or raw. In salads,
CUCUMBER so m e tim e s w ith pale green s p o ttin g . C ream y w h ite relish, and uncooked sauces
fle sh ; seedy. C risp and re fre sh in g ; m ild fla v o r such as ra ita

KIRBY S h o rte r tha n sta n d a rd cucu m be r b u t w ith same Eaten o u t o f hand. E xcelle nt
dia m e te r. Green skin, so m e tim e s w ith w a rts . W h ite p ickle d
fle sh . Very crunchy te x tu re . M ild fla v o r

E N G LIS H /B U R P LE S S / Long, even c y lin d e r w ith som e rid gin g. V ib ra n t P ickled. In salads and cru d ite s
HO THO USE/ green skin. C risp te x tu re ; no seeds. M ild fla v o r
SEEDLESS

eggplant
STANDARD/PURPLE Rounded o r e lon gate d pear shape. Deep p u rp le - S tew ed, braised, roa ste d,
black skin w ith a sheen; green calyx a tta c h e d at g rille d , frie d ; p o pu lar dishes
th e to p . O ff-w h ite fle sh . Can be s lig h tly b itte r, include ra ta to u ille , baba
e sp e cia lly la rg e r veg etab le s; o th e rw is e sw e e t ganoush, and eg gp lan t
Parm esan

JAPANESE Long, narrow, cylinder; so m e tim es arched. Deep S tew ed, braised, roa ste d,
pu rp le -b la ck s tria te d skin w ith a sheen; purple to g rille d , frie d
black calyx a tta ch e d a t th e to p . Tender flesh . M ild ly
sw eet

W HITE May be long, round, or egg shaped. M ilky w hite, S tew ed, braised, roasted,
som etim es w ith purple streaks; tou ghe r skin. Firm, g rille d , frie d
sm ooth flesh. S ligh tly b itte r

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N

 hard-shell squash Hard-shell squashes,
also members of the gourd family, are characterized by
their hard, thick skins and seeds. These thick skins and
yellow to orange flesh require longer cooking than their
soft-shelled counterparts.
Select squashes that are heavy for their size, with a
hard, unblemished rind. Hard-shell squashes may be
stored in a cool, dark place for many weeks without de­
teriorating in quality.

BLU E H UBBARD
RED KURI

CARN IVAL
SPAGHETTI

K ABO CH A

STRIPED EDDY

SW EET DUM PLING

DELICATA

WHITE AND ORANGE B UTTERNU T SQ UASH

JA C K BE LITTLE PU M PKINS

152 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 hard-shell squash
Hard-Shell Squash
VARIETY* DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

ACORN A corn shape w ith deep ridges. Dark Baked, pureed, sim m ered; glazed
green, usually w ith som e orange. Deep w ith honey or m aple syrup. In soups
orange fle sh . S lig h tly s trin g y te x tu re .
S w e et fla v o r

BUTTERNUT E lo ng ated pear shape. Tan skin. B rig h t Baked, pureed, sim m ered; glazed
orange, cream y fle sh . S w e et fla v o r w ith honey o r m aple syrup. In soups

HUBBARD Large. D u sty green to b rig h t orange, can Baked, pureed, sim m ered; glazed
also be blue. Very w a rty skin. Y ellow - w ith honey o r m aple syrup. In soups
orange fle sh ; gra in y te x tu re . S lig h tly
sw e e t fla v o r

PUM PKIN W ide v a rie ty o f pu m pkins w ith d iffe re n t
uses: pie (round, b rig h t orange, green
stem ); Jack Be L ittle o r m ini (m in ia tu re
versions, w h ite o r orange); cheese
(large, fla t, beige) are com m on v a rie tie s .
Cream y fle sh . S w e et fla v o r
Baked, pureed, sim m ered; glazed
w ith honey o r m aple syrup. In soups,
pies, and qu ick breads. Seeds, known
as p e p ita s, are ro a ste d

SPAGHETTI W a te rm e lo n shape. B rig h t ye llo w skin S team ed, ro a ste d

and fle sh ; a fte r it is cooked, th e fle s h
se p a ra te s in to strand s. M ild fla v o r

DELICATA/SW EET O blong shape. Yellow skin w ith green S team ed, ro a ste d
POTATO SQUASH s trip e s . B rig h t ye llo w fle sh . E x tre m e ly
sw e e t fla v o r

* There are many varieties of hard-shell squashes available only within small regions.
See the photo on facing page for some harder-to-find varieties.

c h a p t e r s » FRUIT. V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 153

lettuce Each of the thousands of lettuce varieties
can be classified into one of the following categories:
butterhead, crisphead, romaine, or leaf. Select lettuce
that is crisp, never wilted or bruised. Lettuce should not
be washed, cut, or torn until just before service. Store
lettuce in the refrigerator, covered loosely with damp
paper towels.
RED LEAF
' ^
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
As with most greens, it is very important to thor­
oughly wash lettuce, as dirt and grit tend to hide between
the leaves. Never submerge lettuce in water for an
extended amount of time, and be sure that it is dried
well after washing (a salad spinner is great for this).
The following table covers several varieties of lettuce.
BOSTON
ICEBERG
% ,
ROM AINE
W
 lettuce
Lettuce
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

butterhead

BOSTON L o ose ly fo rm e d heads. S o ft, ve ry te n d e r In salads. Braised

leaves, v ib ra n t green. M ild , sw eet,
d e lica te

BIBB L o ose ly fo rm e d heads; sm a lle r tha n B oston. In salads. Braised

S o ft, ve ry te n d e r leaves, v ib ra n t green. M ild,
sw eet, d e lic a te

crisphead and romaine

ICEBERG T ig h t heading le ttu c e . Pale green leaves. In salads, shredded or served as

Very m ild a wedge. G arnish f o r M exican
fo o d

ROMAINE Long c y lin d ric a l head. O u te r leaves are ribbed; In salads, esp e cia lly Caesar
da rk green leaves, becom ing lig h te r on th e salad. Braised
in te rio r. O u te r leaves are s lig h tly b itte r, inner
leaves m ild and sw e et

leaf

RED LEAF/GREEN LEAF Loose heading le ttu c e . M ay be green or red In salads, w ra ps in Asian cuisine
tip p e d ; ten der, crisp leaves. M ild, becom ing
b itte r w ith age

OAK LEAF Loose heading le ttu c e . S ca llo p in g on ten der, In salads

crisp leaves. N u tty fla v o r

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 155

bitter salad greens Bitter salad greens are arugula to crimson heads of radicchio. Selection cri­
tender enough to be eaten raw in salads, but may also teria and handling practices for bitter salad greens are
be sauteed, steamed, grilled, or braised. There are many similar to those for lettuce. The following table covers
varieties that fit into this category, from green, leafy several varieties of bitter salad greens.

ESCA R O LE

FRISEE

RADICCHIO

BELGIAN ENDIVE

A R U G U LA

M A C H E /L A M B 'S LETTUCE
W ATERCRESS

TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
 bitter salad greens
Bitter Salad Greens
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

ARU G U LA/RO CKET Rounded " te e th ” on th e ends o f te n d e r In salads, pe sto, soups. Sauteed
leaves; v ib ra n t green. P eppery fla v o r

BELGIAN ENDIVE T ight, ob lo ng head. W hite, crisp leaves In salads. G rilled, roa ste d, braised
w ith yellow ish -gree n or red a t tip s. M ild ly
b itt e r fla v o r

FRISEE Thin, cu rly leaves; w h ite w ith ye llo w ish - In salads, le ttu c e m ixes such as
green tip s . M ild ly b itte r m esclun

ESCAROLE H eading le ttu c e . Scalloped, c rin k ly edges In salads and soups. Braised, stew ed
on green leaves. S lig h tly b itte r fla v o r

M A C H E /L A M B ’S Loose bunches. Thin, rounded dark green In salads. S team ed

LETTUCE leaves. Very tender, D elicate, sw e et fla v o r

RADICCHIO Round or o b lo ng heads. Firm , deep red to In salads. G rilled, sauteed, baked,
p u rple leaves, w h ite veining. B itte r fla v o r braised

WATERCRESS Sm all, scallop ed d a rk-gre en, crisp In salads, sandw iches, and soups. As
leaves. M u s ta rd -lik e , p e p p e ry fla v o r a garnish

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 157

 cooking greens Cooking greens are the ed­ are similar to those for lettuce and bitter salad greens.
ible leaves of certain plants that are often too fibrous to The following table covers several varieties of cooking
eat without first being sauteed, steamed, or braised. Se­ greens. See the cabbage family table on page 149 for in­
lection criteria and handling practices for cooking greens formation on kale, collard greens, and turnip greens.

SW ISS CHARD

M USTARD GREEN S

BEET GREENS

BABY
SPINACH

DANDELION GREEN S

B A B Y SWISS CHARD
RAINBOW SW ISS CHARD (WHITE AND RED)

158 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

 O
O

Cooking Greens O
FT
i—*•
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES
2
BEETGREENS F la t leaves; deep green, red rib bin g. Steam ed, sauteed, braised
QTQ
M ild, e a rth y fla v o r GTQ
i-5
DANDELION GREENS Narrow , to o th -e d g e d leaves; tender, Salads, steam ed, sauteed, braised O)
crisp; b rig h t green. M ild ly b itt e r fla v o r CD
P
MUSTARD GREENS Scalloped, n a rrow leaves; d a rk green; S team ed, sauteed, sim m ered, braised co
crisp. P eppery, m u sta rd fla vo r. Also
ava ila ble fro z e n and canned

SPINACH Leaves may be d e ep ly lobed o r fla t, In salads and sandw iches. Steam ed,
d e pe nd ing upon v a rie ty ; deep green. sauteed, braised
M ild fla vo r. A lso a va ila ble fro z e n

SWISS CHARD Lobed, w rin k le d te n d e r da rk green In soups. S team ed, sauteed, braised.
leaves. C risp sta lks; s ta lk s and rib s may B oth s ta lk s and leaves are eaten
be w h ite , yellow , or red. M ild fla v o r

CHEF'S NOTES ON COOKING GREENS

Cooking greens are also known as pot­
herbs. These vegetables are high in fiber,
iron, calcium, and photochemicals, such
as vitamins C and A, and folic acid. They
are considered a “superfood,” indicating
that they are one of the most naturally
nutrient-rich foods. Most cooking greens
are considered cool season vegetables,
making them a good choice for gardens in
areas with shorter growing seasons. These
greens can also be eaten at any stage of
development. If they are tender and young,
they may be cooked briefly or eaten raw.
Always look for cool and moist greens
with a rich green color and no signs of
dryness, yellowing, or wilted edges. Store
any green vegetables in a perforated plastic
bag, or wrapped in a cotton towel in the
refrigerator.

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 159

 mushrooms Mushrooms are a fungus that ex­
ists in thousands of varieties. Cultivated mushrooms,
commonly available today, include the familiar white
mushroom and varieties such as portobello, cremini,
shiitake, and oyster mushrooms. Wild mushrooms,
prized for their concentrated, earthy flavor, include
the cepe (porcini), chanterelle, morel, and the truffle.
Knowing your purveyor is important when you have
wild mushrooms on the menu, as many varieties Eire
poisonous. Some varieties of mushrooms are available
canned, frozen, and dried.
Select mushrooms that are firm, without blemishes
or breaks. If using varieties such as the white or crem­
ini, the caps should be tightly closed, as opened gills are
a sign of age. Conversely, when selecting portobellos—
mature cremini—it is desirable for the gills to be open
signifying a concentration of flavor. Mushrooms that
are to be cooked whole should be of equal size so that
they cook evenly.
Mushrooms should be stored in the refrigerator, in
a single layer, covered with damp paper towels. When
you want to use them, wipe mushrooms with a damp
paper towel, or very quickly rinse them in cold water
and drain immediately. Mushrooms should never be
submerged in water, since they absorb it like a sponge
and will become mushy. See the following table for in­
formation on varieties of mushrooms.

O YSTER

M AITAKE

PO RTO BELLO

SHIITAKE

CREMINI

WHITE

LO BSTER

C H A N TE R ELLE
M ATSU TAKE

M O REL

160 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN

 m ushroom s
Mushrooms
J VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

WHITE W h ite to b u ff colore d. Round cap, V i- 3 Raw o r cooked. M a rin a te d . In

inches in dia m e te r; "b u tto n " re fe rs to the sauces, soups, stew s; s tu ffe d and
s m a lle s t o f th is v a rie ty . F irm te x tu re w ith baked
m ild, w oodsy fla v o r

CEPE/PORCINI Pale brow n, 1 -1 0 inches in d iam e te r. Raw o r cooked. M a rin a te d . In

S m ooth, m e a ty te x tu re . P ungent fla vo r. sauces, soups, stew s
A vaila ble d ried

CHANTERELLE G olden to a p ric o t; tru m p e t shaped. Chewy Raw o r cooked. M a rin a te d . In

te x tu re . N u tty fla v o r sauces, soups, stew s

CREMINI D ark brown, round cap, V 2 - 2 inches in Raw or cooked. In sauces

diam e te r. Firm te x tu re

ENOKI W h ite to b u ff; long, slender, s ta lk -lik e Raw o r cooked. In salads and
m ushroom s. Crunchy te x tu re . M ild, f r u ity soups. As garnish
fla v o r

LOBSTER Deep red, m o ttle d color. Large fungus w ith S auteed. In sauces
very dense te x tu re and m eaty fla v o r

MOREL Tan to ve ry da rk brow n; cone-shaped, ho llo w S auteed. In sauces and salads

cap; 2 - 4 inches in height. F irm b u t spongy
te x tu re . E arth y fla vo r. A vaila ble d rie d

PORTOBELLO Dark brown; opened, f la t caps; 3 - 6 inches Sauteed, g rille d . In sandw iches
in diam eter. Dense, m eaty te x tu re . S tro n g ly and salads
fla vo re d

OYSTER Cream y to s ilv e ry gray; c lu s te r o f fa n ­ Sauteed, b ro ile d

shaped m ushroom s. D e lica te te x tu re .
P eppery fla v o r when raw; m ellow s when
cooked

SHIITAKE Tan to brow n; 3 - 6 inches in diam e te r. M e a ty Sauteed, b ro ile d , g rille d . S tem s

te x tu re . E arth y fla vo r. A vaila ble d rie d used in s to c k

TRUFFLE Black o r o ff-w h ite ; irre g u la rly shaped, S erved raw over pasta. In sauces
w rin k le d . P e rfu m e y fragra nce ; ea rth y, and ris o tto s
g a rlic k y fla vo r. A vaila ble canned, fro ze n , and
as fla v o re d oil

MATSUTAKE Dark brow n. Dense, m e a ty te x tu re . N u tty , Braised, g rille d , steam ed, frie d
fra g ra n t fla v o r

M AITA K E /H E N -O F -T H E - G rayish-brow n. T ig h tly clu ste re d , S auteed

WOODS ove rla pping , fa n -sh ap ed caps; w h ite stem s.
Chewy te x tu re . Deep fla v o r

Chapter 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 161

 onion family Onions, invaluable to any kitch­
en, belong to the lily family. They fall into two main
categories, reflecting the state in which they are used:
dry (cured) and green (fresh). Green onions include seal
lions, leeks, and ramps. Dry onions are categorized by
size and color. They can range in size from pearl to Span­
ish, and from white to yellow to red in color.
Garlic, shallots, and onions (green and dry) all share a
pungent flavor and aroma. Dry onions make up half
of the most fundamental aromatic combination, mirepoix.
Green onions, whether cooked (leeks) or raw (scallions),
impart a sweetly subtle onion flavor. Shallots and garlic are
the flavoring agents in innumerable preparations.
Select dry onions, garlic, and shallots that are heavy
for their size and have tight-fitting, dry, papery skins.
Green onions should be green with white bottoms. They
should be crisp, not wilted. Dry onions, shallots, and
garlic should be stored in a relatively cool, dry area of the
kitchen in the bags or boxes in which they are received.
Green onions should be refrigerated and must be thor­
oughly washed before they are used (leeks tend to have
dirt between each layer).
Chives are also a member of the onion family, though
their main culinary application is similar to that of fresh
herbs. See the following table for more information on
onions.

P EA R L
ONIONS
RED, WHITE, i
AND GOLD

SPANISH ONION

- m

CIPOLLINI ONIONS

GARLIC
w
GREEN ONIONS

162 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN T HE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
 O

0
i—*•
Onion Family O

j VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

dry P
PEARL/CREAM ER Sm all, W in c h -d ia m e te r, oval onion. M ay be w h ite B oiled, pickled , brined; as garnish
or red. M ild fla v o r in drinks. In ste w s and braises

BOILING Sm all, 1 -in ch -d ia m e te r, round onion. W h ite or In ste w s and soups. P ickled
ye llo w skin. M ild fla v o r

CIPOLLINI Sm all, round, fla tte n e d onion. Yellow, p a pe ry skin. R oasted, g rille d . In casseroles
S lig h tly sw e e t fla vo r. A lso a va ila ble pre se rve d in
o il

GLOBE M edium , round, 1 - 4 inches in diam e te r. M ay be In stew s, soups, sauces;

w h ite , yellow , or red. P ungent fla v o r c o m p o n e n t in m ire p o ix

SPANISH /JU M BO Large, 3 -in ch or m ore dia m e te r, round; known A ro m a tic in stocks, soups, sauces,
as C olossal when d ia m e te r exceeds 3V2 inches. braises, stew s; com p on ent o f
Yellow, red, or w h ite . M ild fla v o r m ire p o ix

SWEET Large, so m e tim e s fla tte n e d . W h ite to yellow . Raw in salads. G rilled, sauteed,
S w e e t fla v o r. V a rie tie s include W alla W alla, frie d
V id a lia , M aui

GARLIC Sm all bulb, 2 - 3 inches in diam eter. Papery w h ite A ro m a tic in stocks, soups, sauces,
o r re d -s tre a k e d skin, encasing V 2- to 1-inch- braises, stew s. R oasted and
long in d ivid u a l cloves, also covered w ith papery pureed
skin. Pungent flavo r. E lephant ga rlic: m ore m ild ly
fla v o re d , bulb can be as large as a sm all g ra p e fru it.
G arlic greens are also available; m ild ly fla v o re d ;
used much like scallions

SHALLOTS Small, 1 -2 inches in length; usually cloves bunched A ro m a tic in soups, sauces, braises,
to g e th e r. L ig h t brown papery skin. W h ite -p u rp le stew s. F ried as garnish
fle sh . M ild fla v o r

green
LEEKS Long, th ic k c y lin d e r w ith f la t leaves; w h ite stem A ro m a tic in sto cks, soups, sauces,
end, g ra d u a lly becom ing dark green a t to p . Tender. braises, stew s; com p on ent o f
S u b tle onion fla v o r w h ite m ire p o ix. S auteed, g rille d ,
stea m e d, braised, frie d as garnish

R A M P S /W ILD Long, th in c y lin d e r w ith f la t leaves; w h ite stem A ro m a tic in sto cks, soups, sauces,
LEEKS end, so m e tim e s w ith a pu rp le hue, gra d u a lly braises, stew s. Sauteed, g rille d ,
be com ing green a t to p . G a rlicky fla v o r. H ighly steam ed, braised, frie d as garnish.
seasonal P ickled

GREEN O N IO N S / Long, th in c y lin d e r w ith c y lin d ric a l leaves; w h ite A ro m a tic in s tir-fr ie s . Raw in
SCALLIONS s te m end gra d u a lly becom ing green a t to p . M ild, salads; as garnish
grassy onion fla v o r

ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 163

peppers There are two basic types of peppers:
sweet peppers and chiles. Sweet peppers are sometimes
called bell peppers because of their shape. Sweet pep­
pers of various colors have similar flavors, though red
and yellow varieties tend to be sweeter.
Chiles, an important ingredient in many cuisines,
are available in various sizes, colors, and levels of heat.
Capsaicin is the compound that gives a chile its heat,
and it is most potent in the white ribs inside the pepper.
Generally, the hotter chiles are smaller in size. It is
imperative to take precautions when handling chiles;
wear gloves, wash cutting surfaces and knives, and
avoid contact with sensitive tissue such as the eyes.
Chiles are available fresh, canned, dried (whole,
flaked, and ground), and smoked. Frequently, dried and/or
smoked chiles are given a name different than their fresh
counterpart (e.g., smoked jalapenos are called chipotles).
When selecting both categories, look for firm, heavy
peppers, with tight, glossy skin, without puckering or
wrinkling. The flesh should be relatively thick and crisp.

RED, YELLO W , AND

GREEN SWEET

M AN ZANA

RED AND
GREEN
HABANER0

FRESH AND DRIED

THAI BIRD CHILES

S ER RAN O
ANCHO
ANAHEIM
GUAJILLO

JA LA PEN O

FRESNO

POBLAN O

CHIPOTLE

TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
 peppers
Peppers
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

SWEET PEPPERS Bell-shaped; 3 -5 inches long, 2 - 4 inches In salads. Raw; sauteed, g rille d ,
w ide. Green, red, yellow , o r purple. Crisp, ro a ste d , s tu ffe d and baked
ju ic y fle sh . M ild, sw e et fla v o r. R oasted
pe pp ers are a va ila ble canned and
b o ttle d

chiles/hot peppers (listed in order from mild to hot)

A N A H E IM /C A LIFO R N IA Long, narrow , ta p e re d . Green; red v a rie ty In salsa. S tu ffe d

is known as C olorado. S w eet, m ild fla vo r.
A lso a va ila ble dried , called m a riso l

POBLANO Large, ta p e re d , fla tte n e d cone; 4 -5 C om m only s tu ffe d , as chiles rellenos.

inches long, 3 inches w ide. Very dark In soups and stew s
green, so m e tim e s w ith a black hue. M ild
fla v o r. A lso ava ila ble d ried , called ancho
o r m ulato

FRESNO Sm all to m edium , ta p e re d ; 2 - 3 inches In rice, salads, sauces, salsa, soups

long. Deep green o r red. Range fro m m ild
to m edium hot

JALAPENO Sm all to m edium ; ta p e re d chile; 2 inches In rice, salads, sauces, salsa, soups,
long, 3/ t inch w ide. Deep green or red. stew s, relish. S tu ffe d
Range fro m h o t to v e ry hot. A vaila ble
canned and b o ttle d . Sm oked and d rie d
called c h ip o tle s

SERRANO Sm all, skinny; I V 2 inches long. Dark In sauces, salsa

green to red. Very hot. A lso a va ila ble
canned in o il o r p ickle d . D ried, in w hole
or po w d ered fo rm , called chile seco

THAI Tiny, thin ; 1 inch long, V * inch w ide. Green In sauces, s tir-frie s , as garnish
to red. Very hot. A lso a va ila ble dried,
called b ird chiles

HABANERO Sm all; la n te rn shaped. Pale green to In sauces, m e a t rubs, b o ttle d

orange. E x tre m e ly hot; a s im ila r v a rie ty co n d im e n ts
is th e S cotch bonnet. A lso a va ila ble
d rie d

M ANZANA Sm all, apple-shaped; I V 2 - 2 inches In sauces, m e a t rubs, b o ttle d

long. Red, yellow , o r green; black seeds co n d im e n ts
in a pod th a t pull aw ay fro m th e fle sh .
S im ila r in he at to habanero pe pp ers

ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 165

pod and seed vegetables This group
includes fresh legumes (peas, beans, and bean sprouts),
as well as corn and okra. All varieties are best eaten
young, when they are at their sweetest and most tender.
If possible, purchase pod and seed vegetables from lo­
cal growers to minimize the time between picking and
serving. This is especially important with peas and corn.
Some fresh peas and beans are eaten whole, when
the pods are still fleshy and tender—for example, sugar
snap peas, snow peas, green beans, and wax beans. In
other cases, the peas or beans (such as limas, scarlet
runners, and black-eyed peas) are removed from their
inedible pods. Select vegetables that are crisp, brightly
colored, and free of discoloration. Peas, beans, and corn
are also available dried, as discussed in Chapter 10.
GREEN BEAN

HARICOTS
VERTS

SNOW PEA

CHINESE LO N G /
YARD LONG BEAN CORN

G R EEN /
EN G LISH /
G ARDEN PEA
FAVA BEAN

SU G A R
S N A P P EA

Y ELLO W ROM ANO BEAN

GREEN RO M AN O BEAN ED A M A M E

TOOLS AND INGREDIENTS IN THE PROFESSIONAL KITCHEN

 pod and seed vegetables
Pod and Seed Vegetables
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

CORN Papery husk su rro u n d in g s ilk -lik e hair B oiled, steam ed, g rille d . O fte n cut
and long, th ic k cobs. Y ellow a n d /o r w h ite o f f th e cob f o r soups, cream ed
kernels. Juicy, sw eet. C om m only a va ila ble corn, succotash, and o th e r side
canned and fro ze n dishes

beans

GREEN BEAN Long, th in , ed ib le pods c o n ta in in g sm all B oiled, steam ed, sauteed, roa ste d
seeds. D ull green; s im ila r v a rie tie s include a
pale ye llo w (wax bean) o r p u rp le (B urgundy
bean, w hich tu rn s green when cooked).
C om m only a va ila ble canned and fro z e n

HARICOTS V ER TS/ Long, v e ry th in , e d ib le pods c o n ta in in g sm all B oiled, steam ed, sauteed, roa ste d
FRENCH GREEN BEAN seeds. D ull green. V e lve ty skin

ROMANO BEAN W ide, fla t- lo o k in g ed ib le pods. D ull green. B oiled, steam ed, sauteed, roa ste d
M ore pronounced fla v o r tha n green beans

CHINESE LONG B E A N / D ull green, v e lv e ty skin; V * inch th ic k , 1 8 -3 6 Sauteed, s tir - fr ie d

YARD-LONG BEAN inches long. Edible pods c o n ta in in g sm all
seeds. F le xib le te x tu re

LIM A BEAN Long, large, in e d ib le pods; large, plum p, B oile d and sauteed; pureed.
kid ne y-shap ed beans. Green pods; lig h t Served h o t o r cold. In succotash
green beans. Known as b u tte r beans in th e
so u th e rn U n ite d S ta te s. A lso a va ila ble
fro ze n , canned, d ried

FAVA BEAN Long, large, in e d ib le green pods; large, fla t, B oile d and sauteed; pureed.
kid ne y-shap ed beans. Tough lig h t green S erved h o t o r cold
skin m ust be peeled aw ay to reveal th e lig h t
green bean. A lso a va ila ble dried

CRANBERRY BEAN Large, in ed ible, lig h t ta n pod, fle c k e d w ith B oile d and sauteed; pureed.
red. O ff-w h ite and re d -s p lo tc h e d beans. Served h o t o r cold. In soup
N u tty fla v o r. A vaila ble d ried

EDAM AM E/G REEN Fuzzy, green in e d ib le pods, 1 - 2 inches long; B oile d and steam ed, as a snack or
SOYBEAN co n ta in green beans. S w e et fla v o r a p p e tiz e r

peas
GREEN PEA/ENG LISH Tapered, rounded, in e d ib le green pods. S team ed, stew ed. Pureed in
PEA/GARDEN PEA Sm all, round, shiny, lig h t green peas. S w e et soups; so m e tim e s chille d
fla v o r

SNOW PEA Thin, fla t, edible, green pod, c o n ta in in g tin y S team ed, s tir-frie d . Eaten raw
seeds. Crisp. S w e et fla v o r

SUGAR SNAP PEA Plump, e d ib le deep green pod co n ta in in g S team ed, s tir -frie d . Eaten raw
sm all peas. Crunchy. S w e et fla v o r

Chapter 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 167

root vegetables Roots serve as a food storage
area for plants; therefore, they are rich in sugars,
starches, vitamins, and minerals. Roots primarily move
nutrients and moisture to the tops of the plant. Veg­
etables such as beets, carrots, and turnips are directly
attached to the plant via leaves or leaf stems.
B A B Y WHITE
TURNIPS
B A B Y CARRO TS
LAR G E RED BEET
TOOLS AND INGREDIENTS IN THE PROFESSIONAL KITCHEN
Root vegetables should be stored dry and unpeeled.
If they come with greens attached, these should be
healthy in appearance at the time of purchase and cut
off as soon as possible thereafter. When properly stored,
most root vegetables will retain good quality for several
weeks,
FRENCH RADISH
RED RADISH
B A B Y BEETS
 o
o
<
RU TAB AG A <D
Q
TQ
O)
C E L E R Y ROOT c+

FT
C/5

S A L S IF Y

WHITE TU RNIPS

,% B A B Y GOLD BEETS

ii

DAIKON

LAR G E GOLD BEET

HORSERADISH

Chapter 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 169

Root Vegetables
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES !

CARROT Long, th in , ta p e re d . Orange, yellow , or C om po nen t o f m ire p o ix. Boiled,

purple; o fte n w ith green fe a th e ry to p s. stea m e d, sauteed, roa ste d, glazed.
Crunchy, sw e et fle sh . Baby c a rro ts Raw in salads and c ru d ite s p la tte rs
com m o nly available

CELERY ROOT Round, bum py. L ig h t brow n skin; w h ite B oiled, ro a ste d . In soups, stew s,
fle s h casseroles

LOTUS ROOT C ylin d rica l w ith s lig h t ridges, 6 - 8 inches B oiled, cream ed. In soups
long. R e dd ish-b row n skin; w h ite fle s h
w ith large holes

M ALAN G A B arre l-sha pe d. Rough brow n skin; w h ite , B oiled, cream ed. In soups and stew s
sta rc h y fle s h

PARSNIP C a rro t-sh a p e d . W h ite skin, fle c k e d w ith C om ponent o f w h ite m ire p o ix. Boiled,
brown. W h ite fle sh . Cream y te x tu re . stea m e d, sauteed, ro a ste d
S w e et fla v o r

S ALSIFY/O YSTER Long, th in , stick-sh a p e d . Black, dull skin. F la vo rin g f o r s tir -frie s , soups, sauces
PLANT W h ite fle sh . M ild o y s te r fla v o r

TURNIP Round. P urple to w h ite skin. W h ite fle sh . S team ed, boiled, sauteed. In soups.
Sharp fla v o r Raw in salads

PURPLE-TOPPED/ Round; 1 - 4 inches in d iam e te r. W h ite S team ed, boiled, ro a ste d , frie d .
W HITE TURNIP skin w ith pu rp le to p . W h ite fle sh . M ild, P opular in Caribbean cuisine
sw e e t fla v o r

R U TABAG A/YELLO W Large, round; 3 - 5 inches in diam eter. S team ed, bo ile d; mashed, pureed.
TURNIP Yellow skin. Firm ye llo w fle sh . S w eet P opular in C aribbean, L a tin Am erican,
and A fric a n cuisines

RADISHES Round. Red skin. W h ite fle sh . Crisp. B oiled, cream ed. In soups. Raw in
P eppery fla v o r salads, c ru d ite s

STANDARD BEET S m all to m edium ; round o r elongated. B oiled, ro a ste d , glazed, pickled . In
Red, pink, purple, w h ite , gold, o r s trip e d ; salads, in soup (com m only bo rscht).
green, le a fy to p s (also a va ila ble ce llo - Served h o t and cold
packed w ith o u t to p s). E arth y and sw e et

DAIKON C a rro t-sh a p e d ; up to 15 inches long, Raw in salads; p ickle d . G rilled, baked,
3 inches w ide. W h ite skin. Crisp, ju ic y boiled, cream ed. In soups, stew s
w h ite fle sh . M ild fla v o r

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

tubers and rhizomes Tubers and rhi­
zomes, which include a variety of miscellaneous vegeta­
bles such as the Jerusalem artichoke and jicama as well as
the entire family of potatoes, are vegetables that are con­
nected to the root system by an underground stem and
are not, therefore, connected directly to the plant, as are
roots. Tubers act to store nutrients and moisture for the
plant’s reproductive capability.
tubers and rhizomes
The tuberous potato includes sweet potatoes/yams
for culinary purposes (though of another botanical clas­
sification). Though potatoes are remarkably versatile in
their cooking media, there are types that work best for
each cooking method. Potatoes are separated into cate­
gories based on starch content, and subsequently divid­
ed according to size (A, B, C) and skin color (white, red,
yellow, purple). Size A potatoes range from i/ s to 2V 4

Select tubers and rhizomes that are firm and the ap­ inches; size B range from 1V 2 to 2V 4 inches; and size C
propriate size and shape to their type. To retain quality, must be less than 1V 4 inches. New potatoes are those of
tubers should be stored dry and unpeeled, away from any color that are recently harvested and thin-skinned.
excess heat and light, in a well-ventilated area. When Most size C potatoes are marketed as creamer potatoes.
exposed to moisture or heat, tubers begin to sprout and
wrinkle.

RED POTATOES

RED C R E A M E R S YU KO N GOLD

PU R PLE POTATOES

FINGERLINGS

Y E LLO W A POTATOES

R U S S ET POTATO
Y E LLO W C R EA M E R S
Y ELLO W B POTATOES

Chapter 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 171

 tubers and rhizomes, continued

172 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN

 tubers and rhizomes
Tubers and Rhizomes
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

CASSA VA/YU C C A/ S ix -1 2 inches long, 2 - 3 inches in diam eter. Wax- S tir-frie s , soups, sauces,
MANIOC coated dark brown skin. W hite flesh. Sw eet flavor. d e s s e rts (tapioca). N ote th a t
Also available dried, ground as tapioca flo u r and as b itt e r cassava is poisonous
tap ioca pearls in various sizes unless p ro p e rly cooked

GINGER Gnarled, rough rhizom e. L ig h t brow n skin. F la vo rin g f o r s tir -frie s , soups,
Y e llo w is h -w h ite fle sh . F ibrous, b u t ju ic y . Spicy, sauces, d e sse rts, and beverages
w ith su b tle sw eetness. A lso a va ila ble dried, (tea, g in g e r ale). Candied,
ground, candied, pickled , and as b o ttle d ju ice p ickled

GALANGAL Resem bles ginger, w ith lig h te r co lo re d fle sh . Very F la vo rin g f o r s tir- fr ie s , soups,
p e p p e ry and spicy sauces

JICAM A Large, round; brow n skin. W h ite fle sh . C risp and S team ed, bo ile d, sauteed
crunchy. M ild, sw e e t fla v o r (rem ains crunchy). Raw in
salads, slaws, and c ru d ite s

SUN CHO KE/ S im ila r in appearance to g in g e r b u t in d ivid u a l Steam ed, bo ile d, sauteed,
JERUSALEM knobs; brow n skin. W h ite fle s h . Crisp. S w eet, n u tty ro a ste d . In soups. Raw in salads
ARTICHOKE fla v o r

BONIATO Large, up to 1 f o o t in length; o b lo n g shape. Steam ed, bo ile d, roa ste d, frie d ,
R e dd ish-b row n skin. W h ite fle sh . M ild , sw e e t fle s h pureed
like ch e stn u ts

potatoes
CHEF Round; 2 V 2- 3 V 2 inches in dia m e te r, 3 - 4 inches B oiled. In p o ta to salad
long. L ig h t ta n skin. Firm , o ff- w h ite fle sh ;
m o d e ra te m o is tu re and s ta rch co n te n t. S m ooth,
sh a llo w eyes

R U S S E T/B A K IN G / O blong, a b o u t 5 inches long, 3 inches in diam eter. Baked, frie d , pureed, mashed
IDAHO Brow n, coarse skin. W h ite fle sh . Low m o is tu re and
high sta rc h co n te n t; f lu f f y

RED Round. Red skin. O ff-w h ite fle sh . H u c kle b e rry is an B oiled, ro a ste d . In p o ta to salad
he irlo o m v a rie ty w ith red fle s h

YELLOW Round. Y e llo w ish -ta n skin. B u tte ry go ld en fle sh . Baked, pureed. In casseroles,
Yukon G old and Yellow Finn are h e irlo o m v a rie tie s salads

WHITE Large, round. Tan skin and w h ite fle s h Baked, pureed. In casseroles,
salads

PURPLE Small, round. Deep purple skin. O ff-w h ite or purple Salads, hom e frie s , o th e r
flesh . Peruvian Purple is an heirloom v a rie ty p re p a ra tio n s to showcase co lo r
and fla v o r

FINGERLING Sm all, th in , fin g e r-le n g th . Skin c o lo r ranges fro m B oiled, ro a ste d

tan to red. Flesh can be o ff- w h ite o r yellow .
Russian Banana and La R a tte are h e irlo o m
v a rie tie s

SWEET POTATO/ Long, ta p e re d a t b o th ends. Tan or lig h t to deep R oasted, boiled, pureed. In
YAM orange skin, so m e tim e s deep red. M o is t o ff-w h ite casseroles, soups, pies
to deep orange fle sh ; dense te x tu re . Q uite sw e e t

ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 173

shoots and stalks This family consists of
plants that produce shoots and stalks used as vegetables.
Artichokes (thistle-like plants, members of the aster
family), asparagus (another member of the lily fam­
ily), celery, fennel, and fiddleheads (part of the growth
cycle of a fern) are examples. The stalks should be firm,
fleshy, and full, with no evidence of browning or wilt­
ing. Store these vegetables in the refrigerator, and wash
just prior to cooking them.

G LO BE
ARTICHOKE

BABY
ARTICHOKE

FEN N EL

WHITE A S PA R A G U S

CELERY

A S PA R A G U S

FIDDLEHEAD FERN

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN


Shoots and Stalks
VARIETY DESCRIPTION
ASPARAGUS Tall, sle n d e r sta lk s . Green w ith p u rp le -
hued tip s , w h ite , o r purple. S kin n ie r
asparagus are usu ally m ore te n d e r
FENNEL V ery pale green bulb, w ith s ta lk s and
b rig h t green fro n d s . Crunchy. Anise
fla v o re d
F ID DLEH EADFERN Sm all, t ig h tly wound spirals. Deep green
color. Chewy te x tu re . S im ila r fla v o r to
asparagus
CELERY Long s ta lk s , bunched to g e th e r w ith
leaves on to p . L ig h t green. Crunchy. M ild
b u t d is tin c t fla v o r
ARTICHOKES Range in size fro m baby to jum bo.
Tough green o u te r leaves; h e a rt is
ten der, w ith a cream y te x tu re . S w e et
fla v o r. A rtic h o k e h e a rts are com m o nly
a va ila ble canned, packed in oil, and
fro z e n
Chapter 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
shoots and stalks
COMMON CULINARY USES
S team ed, sauteed, roa ste d, g rille d .
In soups, ris o tto
Raw in salads. S auteed, blanched,
ro a ste d . F ronds are used in salads or
as garnish
Raw in salads; sauteed, steam ed,
b o ile d
C om po nen t o f m ire p o ix. Raw in
salads. In soups o r braised. Leaves
are used in salads o r as garnish
Jumbo artich o ke s: s tu ffe d or
stea m e d. Baby artich o ke s: sauteed,
frie d , ro a ste d , m a rin a te d and served
w hole
175
tomatoes This universal vegetable is actually a
fruit. It is grown in hundreds of varieties, in colors from
green to yellow to bright red to purple. Basic types in­
clude small, round cherry tomatoes; oblong plum toma­
toes; and large standard tomatoes. All are available in
various colors. All have smooth, shiny skin, juicy flesh,
and small, edible seeds. Most tomatoes grown commer­
cially are picked unripe and allowed to ripen in transit,
though many chefs prefer to find locally grown varieties
that are ripened on the vine. There has been a recent
surge in demand for the heirloom species, such as the
Cherokee Purple and Green Zebra.
Select brightly colored tomatoes, free of soft spots
and blemishes. They should be heavy for their size, but
not overly firm. Tomatoes should not be refrigerated
because the cold makes the texture mushy, seizes the
flavor, and halts ripening.
Tomatoes may be purchased in numerous forms,
including sun-dried and canned puree, paste, and diced.
The following table covers several varieties of tomatoes,
including their relative, the tomatillo.

HEIRLOOM AU N T R U B Y 'S G ER M A N GREEN

HEIRLOOM STRIPED G ER M AN

TOMATILLO

HEIRLOOM PU R PLE CHERO KEE

Y E LLO W G RAPE

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
 tom atoes
Tomatoes
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

STANDAR D/BEEFSTEAK Large; round o r oval. Deep red o r yellow . Raw in salads and sandw iches.
Juicy. Sw eet Cooked in sauces, braises, stew s

P LU M /IT A LIA N P L U M / M edium , egg shaped. Red o r yellow . In sauces, purees, soups, and o th e r
ROMA G re a te r p ro p o rtio n o f fle s h ; dryish. cooked dishes. Oven ro a ste d
S w e et

CHERRY Sm all, 1 inch in dia m e te r. Red o r yellow . Raw in salads and c ru d ite s p la tte rs
Juicy. Sw eet

CURRANT/CRANBERRY S p e c ia lty item . Very sm all, V i - ^ A inch in Raw in salads

diam e te r. Red o r yellow . Crisp, sw e e t

PEAR TOMATOES Sm all, pear shaped; red o r yellow ; ju ic y , Raw in salads and c ru d ite s p la tte rs
sw e et

HEIRLOOM (BR AN D Y­ Range in size and c o lo r fro m sm all w ith Raw in salads; cooked in soups and
W INE, M ARVEL green s trip e s to large p in kish -p u rp le ; sauces
STRIPED, PURPLE b e a u tifu l, o fte n o d d ly shaped. Juicy and
CALABASH, ETC.) sw e et

TOMATILLOS M edium , 1 to 2 inches in dia m e te r, round, Raw in salads and salsas. Cooked
firm . Green o r p u rp le w ith brow n, papery in sauces. P opular in M exican and
husk. T art, f r u it y fla v o r S o u th w e s te rn cuisines .

P L U M /R O M A

Y E LLO W

S T A N D A R D /B EEF S T EA K
C H ER RY

PEAR

Y E L L O W PEAR

c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 1 77

 herbs

ROSEMARY

CHERVIL

O REGANO

TH YM E

LEM O N T H YM E

178 TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN T HE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 CILAN TRO

L EM O N G RA SS

CHIVES

FLA T -LEA F
PARSLEY

C U RLY P A R S L E Y

ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 179

 Herbs
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES j
BASIL Sm all to large de lica te oval, p o in te d leaves. Green F la vo rin g f o r sauces, dressings, in fu sed
or purple. Pungent, lico rice -like flavo r. V arieties oils, and vinegars. P esto sauce. P opular in
include opal, lemon, and Thai basil. Also available M e d ite rra n e a n and Thai cuisine
dried

BAY LE A F / S m ooth, oval green leaves. A ro m a tic . M o s t Flavoring fo r soups, stews, stocks, sauces,
LAUREL LEAF com m o nly a va ila ble dried gra in dishes. Remove b e fo re serving

CHERVIL Sm all, cu rly green leaves; d e lic a te te x tu re . Anise Garnish. C o m ponent o f fin e s herbes
fla v o r. A lso a va ila ble dried

CHIVES Long, th in b rig h t green c y lin d ric a l leaves. M ild F la vo rin g f o r salads and cream cheese.
onion fla v o r As garnish. C om ponent o f fin e s herbes

CILANTRO/CHI­ S im ila r shape to f la t - le a f parsley, b u t fr illie r ; F la v o rin g fo r salsa and uncooked sauces
NESE PARSLEY/ lig h te r green; d e lica te . Fresh, clean fla v o r
CORIANDER

CURRY LEAVES S m all to m edium p o in te d oval; da rk green. M ild, S tir -fry , curry
a ro m a tic, s lig h tly b itte r fla v o r

DILL Long fe a th e r-lik e green leaves. D is tin c t fla vo r. F la vo rin g f o r salads, sauces, stew s,
A lso a va ila ble d ried braises

LEMONGRASS Long blades w ith rough surface; pale ye llo w F la vo rin g fo r soups, stocks, s tir-frie s ,
green; lem on fla v o r stea m e d p re p a ra tio n s

MARJORAM Sm all, oval pale green leaves. M ild fla v o r s im ila r F la vo rin g f o r lam b and ve g e ta b le dishes
to oregano. C om m only ava ila ble dried

MINT Pointed, te x tu re d pale green to b rig h t green F la v o rin g fo r sw e et dishes, sauces, and
leaves; color, size, stre n g th depend on va rie ty. beverages. G arnish f o r d e sse rts. M in t
Includes p e pp erm in t, spearm int, chocolate m in t je lly is an a cco m pa nim e nt to lamb

OREGANO Sm all, oval pale green leaves. P ungent fla vo r. F la vo rin g f o r to m a to -b a s e d dishes. On
M exican and M e d ite rra n e a n v a rie tie s are pizza
ava ila ble. C om m only ava ila ble dried

PARSLEY C urly o r f la t b rig h t green leaves; po in te d, F la vo rin g f o r sauces, sto cks, soups,
scallop ed edges. Clean ta s tin g ; F la t-le a f parsley dressings. As garnish. C om ponent o f
is also known as Ita lia n parsley. C om m only fin e s herbes; in b o uq ue t garni and sachet
ava ila ble d ried d'epices

ROSEMARY Pine n e e d le -sh a p e d grayish, deep green leaves; Flavoring fo r g rille d foo ds (especially lamb)
w o od y stem . S tro n g pine arom a and fla vo r. and marinades. Popular in M editerranean
C om m only ava ila ble dried cuisine. Branch-like stem s used as skewers

SAGE Thin, oval, velvety grayish-green leaves. M usty F la vo rin g f o r s tu ffin g , sausage, stew s
flavor. V arieties include pineapple sage. Comm only
available dried, both crum bled and ground

SAVORY O blong da rk green leaves. S o ft, fu zzy te x tu re . F la vo rin g f o r pates, s tu ffin g . C om ponent
C om m only a va ila ble d ried o f p o u ltry seasoning

TARRAGON Thin, p o in te d dark green leaves. D e lica te te x tu re . F la vo rin g f o r bearnaise sauce.

Anise fla vo r. C om m only a va ila ble dried C o m ponent o f fin e s herbes

THYM E Very sm all deep green leaves; w o od y stem . F lavoring fo r soups, stocks, sauces, stews,
V a rie tie s in clud e garden thym e, lem on thym e, braises, roa ste d item s. C om ponent o f
w ild thym e. C om m only ava ila ble dried bouquet garni and sachet d'epices

180 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

dairy and egg
purchasing and
identification
Concentrated sources of many nutrients, dairy products and eggs
can be found on almost any menu, both on their own and as key
ingredients in many preparations. Bechamel sauce, for example, has a
milk base. Cream, creme fralche, sour cream, and yogurt are used to
prepare salad dressings and many baked goods. Butter is used as a
chief ingredient in numerous baked goods and as a
cooking fat. Cheese may be served as a separate
course with fruit, or as part of another dish
Eggs appear on their own as well as in
breakfast dishes, dessert souffles, and
numerous sauces.

CHAPTER 9
 purchasing and storage
D airy p ro d u cts and eggs are highly perishable; f o r these
reasons, c a re fu l purchasing and storag e procedures are
e x tre m e ly im p o rta n t.
M ilk and cream co n ta in e rs are c u s to m a rily dated
to in d ica te how long th e c o n te n ts w ill rem ain fre sh . The
fre sh n e ss p e rio d s va ry betw een con tain ers; th e re fo re ,
to avoid c o n ta m in a tio n , m ilk and cream fro m d iffe re n t
con tain ers should never be com bined. U n fo rtu n a te ly ,
d e te c tin g spoilage by sim p ly sm ellin g o r ta s tin g unheat­
ed m ilk is o fte n im p ossib le . W hen used in h o t dishes,
m ilk o r cream should be b ro u g h t to a boil b e fo re adding
i t t o o th e r in g re d ie n ts. If th e m ilk curdles, it should not
be used.
dairy products
MILK
M ilk is a key in g re d ie n t in m o st kitche ns, w h e th e r it is
served as a beverage o r used as a co m p o n e n t in v a ri­
ous dishes. U.S. fe d e ra l re g u la tio n s govern how m ilk is
produced and sold to ensure th a t it is clean and safe
to consume. M o s t m ilk sold in the U n ited S ta te s has
been pa steurized. In p a ste u riza tio n , th e m ilk is heated
to 1 4 5 °F /6 3 °C f o r 30 m in utes or to 1 6 1 °F /7 2 °C f o r 15
seconds, in o rd e r to kilt b a cte ria o r o th e r organism s th a t
could cause in fe c tio n o r c o n ta m in a tio n . M ilk p ro d u cts
w ith a higher pe rcen ta ge o f m ilk f a t than w hole m ilk
are heated to e ith e r 1 5 0 °F /6 6 °C f o r 30 m in utes or to
1 6 6 °F /7 4 °C f o r 30 seconds f o r u ltra p a s te u riz a tio n .
The da te stam pe d on m ilk and cream ca rto n s can be
seven, ten, o r s ixte e n days fro m th e p o in t o f p a ste u riza ­
tio n . It is an in d ic a to r o f how long th e unopened p ro d u c t
w ill rem ain fre s h and w holesom e, assum ing th a t i t has
been p ro p e rly s to re d and handled.
G enerally, m ilk is hom ogenized, w hich means th a t it
has been fo rc e d th ro u g h an u ltra fin e mesh a t high p re s­
sure to break up th e f a t glob ule s it contains. This fa t is
then dispe rsed evenly th ro u g h o u t th e m ilk, p re ve n tin g
it fro m ris in g to th e surface. M ilk may also be fo r t if ie d
w ith vita m in s A and D. L o w -fa t and skim m ilk are a lm o st
always fo r tifie d , because rem oving th e f a t also rem oves
fa t-s o lu b le vitam ins.
S ta te and local go vern m ent stan dard s fo r m ilk are
fa irly co n siste n t. M ilk p ro d u c ts are c a re fu lly in spe cte d
182 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
W hen co n sid e rin g storag e arra ng em en ts fo r da iry
p ro d u cts, fla v o r tra n s fe r is a p a rtic u la r concern. M ilk,
cream, and b u tte r should be sto re d away fro m fo o d s
w ith s tro n g odors, such as onions. Cheeses should be
c a re fu lly w ra pp ed to m aintain m oistness, and to pre ven t
fla v o r tra n s fe r to and fro m o th e r foo ds.
Eggs should be re frig e ra te d and th e s to c k ro ta te d to
ensure th a t only fre sh , w holesom e eggs are served. A ll
eggs should be in sp e cte d c a re fu lly upon delivery, m ak­
ing sure th a t shells are clean and fre e o f cracks. Eggs
w ith broken shells should be discard ed because o f the
high ris k o f co n ta m in a tio n .
b e fo re and a fte r processing. Farm s and anim als (cows,
sheep, and go ats) are also in spected, to ensure th a t san­
ita ry co n d itio n s are upheld. M ilk th a t has been p ro p e rly
produced and processed is labeled Grade A.
M ilk com es in variou s fo rm s and is cla s s ifie d a cco rd ­
ing to its pe rcen ta ge o f f a t and m ilk solids. The ta b le
on th e ne xt page de scrib es ava ila ble fo rm s o f m ilk and
cream and th e ir com m on cu lin a ry uses.
CREAM
M ilk, as it com es fro m th e cow, goat, or sheep, contains
a ce rta in pe rcen ta ge o f f a t known as m ilk f a t or but-
t e r f a t . O rigina lly, m ilk was allow ed to s e ttle long enough
f o r th e cream, w hich is lig h te r than the m ilk, to rise to
th e surface. Today, a c e n trifu g e is used to spin the m ilk.
The cream is driven to th e center, w here it can be easily
draw n o ff, leaving th e m ilk behind.
Cream, like m ilk, is hom ogenized and pasteurized,
and may also be sta b iliz e d to help extend s h e lf life .
Some chefs p re fe r cream th a t has n o t been sta b ilize d or
u ltra p a s te u riz e d , because th e y believe it w ill w hip to a
g re a te r volum e. Three fo rm s o f cream are used in m ost
kitche ns: heavy cream , w h ip p in g cream, and lig h t cream.
H a lf-a n d -h a lf (a c o m b in a tio n o f w hole m ilk and cream)
does n o t con tain enough m ilk fa t to be considered a tru e
cream ; its m ilk f a t c o n te n t is a p p ro x im a te ly 10.5 p e r­
cent. See th e ta b le on th e next page.
 O *
P
I—* •
Forms of Milk and Cream i-i

FORM DESCRIPTION* COMMON CULINARY USES

NONFAT OR SKIM M ILK C ontains less tha n 0 .2 5 % m ilk fa t As beverage. To enrich dishes. In
baked goods, de sse rts
o
Q -
REDUCED-FAT M ILK C ontains 1% o r 2 % m ilk fa t, labeled As beverage. To enrich dishes. In C
a cco rd in g ly baked goods, de sse rts n
r+
in
WHOLE M ILK C ontains 3 .5 % m ilk fa t In becham el sauce. As beverage. To
en rich dishes. In baked goods,
d e sse rts

H A LF-A N D -H A LF C ontains 10 .5% m ilk fa t As ta b le o r c o ffe e cream. To enrich

soups and sauces. In baked goods,
d e s s e rts

LIG HTCREAM C ontains 1 8 % m ilk fa t As ta b le o r c o ffe e cream . To enrich

soups and sauces. In baked goods,
d e sse rts

W HIPPING CREAM C ontains 3 4 % m ilk fa t As w h ipp ed cream , cold m ousses. To

enrich soups and sauces. In baked
goods, d e sse rts

HEAVY CREAM C ontains 3 6 % m ilk fa t As w h ip p e d cream , cold m ousses. To

en rich soups and sauces. In baked
goods, d e sse rts

POWDERED OR DRY M ilk fro m w hich w a te r is c o m p le te ly In baked goods, ch a rcu te rie , and drink
M ILK rem oved; made fro m e ith e r w h ole or m ixes
skim m ilk and labeled acco rd in g ly

EVAPORATED M ILK M ilk th a t has been he ated in a vacuum to To enrich cu sta rd s and sauces. In
rem ove 6 0 % o f its w a te r; m ay be made baked goods and d e sse rts
fro m w h ole o r s kim m ilk and is labeled
a cco rd in g ly

SWEETENED E vap ora te d m ilk th a t has been In candies, pies, puddings, baked
CONDENSED M ILK sw eetened goods, dulce de leche

YOGURT L ig h tly fe rm e n te d w ith a b a c te ria l s tra in W ith fr u it . In soups, sauces, baked

o r cu ltu re d . C ontains less tha n 0 .2 5 % to goods, d e sse rts
3 .5 % m ilk fa t, labeled a cco rd in g ly

SOUR CREAM T reate d w ith la c tic acid cu ltu re . To en rich soups and sauces. In baked
C ontains 1 8 % m ilk fa t goods, d e sse rts

"The fa t percentages given here are minimums required by FDA labeling regulations.
Some products, such as heavy cream, may contain a higher percentage of milk fat.

ch a p te r 9 » D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 183
 ICE CREAM The b e s t-q u a lity b u tte r has a sw e e t flavo r, s im ila r to
very fre s h heavy cream. If s a lt has been added, it should
In o rd e r to m ee t g o ve rn m e n t stan dard s o f id e n tity , any
be b a rely d e te c ta b le . The c o lo r o f b u tte r w ill vary de ­
p ro d u c t labeled as ice cream m ust con tain a ce rta in
pending upon th e breed o f cow and tim e o f year, b u t it is
am ount o f m ilk fa t. For vanilla, it is no less than 10 p e r­
usually a pale yellow .
cent. For any o th e r fla vo r, th e re q u ire m e n t is 8 percent.
The de sig n a tio n sw e e t b u t t e r in d ica te s only th a t the
S ta b iliz e rs can make up no m ore than 2 p e rc e n t o f the
b u tte r is made fro m sw e e t cream (as opposed to sour).
ice cream . Frozen d a iry fo o d s th a t co n ta in less f a t m ust
If u n salte d b u tte r is desired, be sure th a t th e w ord un­
be labeled as ice m ilk. Prem ium ice cream m ay contain
s a lte d appears on th e package.
several tim e s m ore fa t tha n th e m inim um re q u ire d by
S alte d b u tte r may con tain a m axim um o f 2 pe rcen t
th e se stan dard s. The ric h e s t ice cream s have a custa rd
salt. The s a lt can aid in e xte n d in g b u tte r’s sh e lf life , but
base (a m ix tu re o f cream a n d /o r m ilk and eggs), which
can also m ask a s lig h tly "o ld ” fla v o r or arom a. Old b u t­
gives the m a rich, sm oo th te x tu re .
te r w ill ta ke on a very fa in t cheese fla v o r and aroma,
When ice cream m e lts a t room te m p e ra tu re th e re
esp ecially when heated. As it con tinu es to d e te rio ra te ,
should be no sep ara tion. The appearance o f "w eeping"
th e fla v o r and arom a can becom e q u ite pronounced and
in m e ltin g ice cream in d ica te s an excessive am ount o f
e x tre m e ly unpleasant, much tike sour o r curdled m ilk.
s ta b ilize rs.
The b e s t-q u a lity b u tte r, labeled Grade AA, is made
O th e r fro z e n d e sse rts s im ila r to ice cream include
fro m sw e e t cream and has th e b e st flavo r, color, aroma,
ge la to , sh e rb e t, so rb e t, fro z e n yo g u rt, and fro z e n des­
and te x tu re . Grade A b u tte r also is o f e xce lle n t quality.
se rts made w ith soy o r rice m ilk. G elato is Ita lia n fo r
B oth grades AA and A con tain a m inim um o f 8 0 pe rcen t
"ice cream"; tho ugh sim ilar, g e la to con tain s less air than
fa t. Grade B may have a s lig h tly acidic ta s te , as it is
A m erican ice cream, g ivin g it a denser, cre a m ie r te x ­
made fro m sour cream.
ture. S he rbe t does n o t con tain cream , so it is fa r low er
in b u tte rfa t than ice cream ; however, it does con tain a
FERMENTED AND CULTURED MILK
re la tiv e ly high pe rcentage o f sugar in o rd e r to achieve
PRODUCTS
th e c o rre c t te x tu re and co n siste n cy when fro ze n . Some
sh e rb e ts con tain a percentage o f e ith e r eggs o r m ilk, or Y ogurt, sour cream , crem e fratche, and b u tte rm ilk are all
bo th. A lth o u g h th e w ord "s h e rb e t’’ is th e clo se st English pro du ced by in o c u la tin g m ilk o r cream w ith a b a cte ria l
tra n s la tio n o f th e French w o rd sorbet, so rb e ts are com ­ s tra in th a t causes fe rm e n ta tio n to begin. The fe rm e n ta ­
m only un d e rsto o d to con tain no m ilk. tio n process th icke n s the m ilk and gives it a ple a sa n tly
Frozen y o g u rt and soy and rice m ilk fro z e n de sserts sour flavo r.
o fte n con tain sta b iliz e rs . They may be lo w er in to ta l fa t Y ogurt is made by in tro d u c in g the p ro p e r cultu re
than ice cream, or even fa t-fre e , b u t som e brands are in to m ilk (whole, lo w -fa t, o r n o n fa t may be used).
s till high in calorie s because o f a high sugar con tent. A vailable in a v a rie ty o f c o n ta in e r sizes, y o g u rt can be
Test a v a rie ty o f th e se p ro d u cts to d e te rm in e which purchased plain o r fla v o re d w ith d iffe re n t fru its , honey,
brands o ffe r th e be st q u a lity fo r th e b e st price. R e fe r to c o ffe e , o r o th e r in gre die nts.
C hapter 3 4 f o r in fo rm a tio n ab ou t p re p a rin g fro z e n des­ Sour cream is a c u ltu re d sw e e t cream th a t contains
se rts in your own kitchen. ab o u t 18 p e rc e n t m ilk fa t. It com es in con tain ers o f v a ri­
ous sizes, beginning w ith a h a lf p int. L o w -fa t and n o n fa t
BUTTER version s o f sour cream are available.
Creme fra tch e is sim ita r to sour cream b u t has a
Anyone who has a c cid e n ta lly ove rw h ipp ed cream has
s lig h tly m ore rounded fla vo r, w ith less b ite . It is o fte n
been w e ll on th e w ay to pro du cing b u tte r. H is to ric a lly ,
p re fe ra b le in coo kin g because it te n d s to curd le less
b u tte r was churned by hand. Today it is made m echani­
re a d ily than sour cream when used in h o t dishes. This
cally by high-speed m ixing o f cream th a t con tain s be­
p ro d u c t is made fro m heavy cream w ith a b u tte rfa t
tw e e n 30 and 45 p e rce n t m ilk fa t. Eventually, th e m ilk
c o n te n t o f a p p ro x im a te ly 30 pe rcen t. The high b u tte rfa t
fa t clum ps to g e th e r, se p a ra tin g o u t in to a solid mass,
c o n te n t helps account f o r its higher cost.
which is b u tte r; th e flu id th a t rem ains is re fe rre d to as
B u tte rm ilk , s tr ic tly speaking, is the b y-p ro d u ct o f
b u tte rm ilk (m o st b u tte rm ilk sold tod ay, however, is non­
churned b u tte r. M o s t b u tte rm ilk sold to d a y is a ctu ally
fa t m ilk th a t has been cultured).

184 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN T HE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN

n o n fa t o r re d u c e d -fa t m ilk to w hich a b a c te ria l s tra in
has been added. U sually sold in p in ts o r quarts, b u tte r ­
m ilk is also ava ila ble as a d rie d pow der f o r baking uses.
CHEESE
The v a rie ty o f cheeses produced th ro u g h o u t th e w o rld is
extensive, ranging fro m m ild fre s h cheeses (p o t cheese
o r c o tta g e cheese) to s tro n g ly fla v o re d blue-veined
cheeses (R o q u e fo rt o r G orgonzola) and hard g ra tin g
cheeses (Parm igiano-R eggiano o r dry M o n te re y Jack).
Some cheeses are e xce lle n t f o r cooking, w h ile o th e rs
are b e st served on th e ir own.
The name o f a cheese can be de rive d fro m place o f
origin , m a n u fa ctu rin g process, o r ty p e o f m ilk or in g re ­
dien t. P ecorino cheeses are an e xce lle n t illu s tra tio n
o f how a cheese is named. Pecorino de no te s th a t the
cheese is made o f sheep’s m ilk; P ecorino Romano and
Pecorino M ug ello are sheep's m ilk cheeses fro m nearby
Rome and M ugello, re sp e ctive ly.
M o s t cheeses are made th ro u g h th e fo llo w in g p ro ­
cedure: M ilk is com bined w ith th e a p p ro p ria te s ta rte r
(e ith e r rennet, w hich con tain s an enzyme, o r an acid such
as ta rta ric acid o r lem on ju ice), causing th e m ilk solids
to coa gu late in to curds o r causing th e c re a tio n o f acid,
ch a p te r 9 » D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
Q -
P
i—»•
tra c e enzymes, and chem icals, which the n cause cu rd ­ i- i
ing. (The re m a in in g liquid is known as th e whey.) Some ^<1
cheeses are made w ith added acid, such as lemon juice.
The curds are the n processed in various ways, depend­
ing on th e ty p e o f cheese desired. They may be drained O
and used im m e d ia te ly, as fre s h cheese, o r th e y may be Q -
pressed, shaped, in o cu la te d w ith a special m old, and £
aged. n
c+
T ra d itio n a lly made cheeses are considered "livin g" GO
in much th e same w ay th a t w ine is. The cheese w ill con­
tin u e to develop o r age to m a tu rity (ripening), and fin a lly
spo il (overripening). Processed o r p a steurized cheeses
and cheese fo o d s, on th e o th e r hand, do n o t ripen and
th e ir c h a ra cte r w ill n o t change.
Cheese is made fro m a v a rie ty o f d iffe re n t m ilk s —
cow's m ilk, g o at's m ilk, sheep's m ilk, and even w a te r b u f­
falo 's m ilk. The ty p e o f m ilk used w ill help to determ ine
th e cheese's u ltim a te fla v o r and te x tu re . Cheeses may
be gro up ed acco rding to th e ty p e o f m ilk fro m which
th e y are made, o r by te x tu re , age, or rip e n in g process.
This book ca te g o rize s cheese as fre s h cheeses; s o f t /
rin d -rip e n e d cheeses; s e m is o ft cheeses; hard cheeses;
g ra tin g cheeses; and blue-veined cheeses. See the
ta b le s on pages 1 8 7 to 197.
185
 fresh cheeses These cheeses are m o is t and unripened, high in m o istu re , and g e ne rally have a fresh,
ve ry s o ft. They have a fla v o r th a t is g e n e ra lly te rm e d cream y, clean fla vo r. They are ty p ic a lly th e m ost p e rish ­
mild, b u t fre s h cheese made fro m goat's o r sheep's m ilk able o f cheeses and are som e tim es held in brines.
may be s lig h tly ta n g y and strong . Fresh cheeses are

CH EESE CURD SOFT ASH GOAT C H EESE

QUESO FRESCO

M ASCARP0N E

COTTAGE CHEESE

RICOTTA

BOURSIN

F A R M E R ’S CH EESE

186 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 fresh cheeses
Fresh Cheeses
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

CHEVRE/GOATCHEESE G o a t’s m ilk. W h ite block, pyram id, In spreads, fillin g s , salads
b u tto n , w heel, o r log. M ild to ta n g y
(depending on age); may be fla v o re d w ith
herbs or p e pp ercorn s. S o ft to crum b ly,
de pe nd ing on age. M o n tra c h e t is a
p o p u la r brand

COTTAGE CHEESE W hole o r skim cow's m ilk. Packaged in W ith fr u it . In dips

tu b s. W h ite curds. M ild. S o ft, m o is t

CREAM CHEESE W hole cow's m ilk plus cream . W h ite In spreads, dips. As cooking
block. M ild, s lig h tly tan gy. S o ft, cream y. in g re d ie n t. In baked goods and
A lso known as N e u fc h a te l in m any d e s s e rts
p a rts o f th e U n ite d S ta te s (w ith a low er
f a t c o n te n t), a lth ou gh N e u fc h a te l is a
d iffe r e n t cheese in France

FETA Sheep's, goat's, o r cow ’s m ilk. W h ite In salads. As a co o kin g in gre die nt.
block. Tangy and sa lty. S o ft, cru m b ly Used in spa na kop ita

FR O M AG EBLAN C W hole or skim cow's m ilk. W hite. M ild, As co o kin g in g re d ie n t

tan gy. S o ft, s lig h tly cru m b ly

MASCARPONE Cow's cream . Form less, packaged in W ith fr u it . In tira m is u .T o enrich

tu b s. Pale yellow . B u tte ry , sw eet, rich. dishes
S o ft, sm oo th

M O ZZAR ELLA W hole o r skim cow's o r w a te r b u ffa lo 's
m ilk. Irre g u la r sphere. W h ite w ith
g re e n is h -y e llo w tin t. M ild. S pring y to
te n d e r o r s o ft, de pe nd ing on age. M ay be
sm oked
On pizza, pasta. W ith to m a to e s and
ba sil in a caprese salad. As a cooking
in g re d ie n t

RICOTTA W hole, skim , o r lo w -fa t cow's m ilk. As co o kin g in g re d ie n t. In d e sse rts; as

Packaged in tub s. S o ft w h ite curds; m ild. a f illin g f o r cannoli. M akes e xce lle n t
M o is t to s lig h tly dry. Grainy. O fte n a cheesecake
b y-p ro d u ct o f cheese m aking, by adding
rennet, acid, o r both to whey a fte r heating

FARMER'S CHEESE Cow's m ilk. W hite. C urdless; firm enough W ith fre s h f r u it and veg etab le s. In
to cut. M ild. Grainy, spoonable dips, d e sse rts, pasta

BOURSIN W hole cow ’s m ilk and cream . W h ite In spreads, o r as a spread on its own
round. F lavored o r herbed cream cheese
spread. S m ooth

QUESOFRESCO C ow’s m ilk. O ff-w h ite to w h ite rounds. As to p p in g o r f illin g f o r m any

M ild, sa lty. S im ila r to ric o tta o r fa rm e r's M exican dishes
cheese. C rum bly, s lig h tly gra in y

c h a p te r 9 » D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D I D E N T IF IC A T IO N 187
 soft/rind-ripened cheeses
S o ft/rin d -rip e n e d cheeses usually have a surface m old.
This s o ft, v e lv e ty skin is edible, tho ugh som e people
fin d it to o s tro n g to enjoy. M any o f the se cheeses have a
washed rind. These are p e rio d ic a lly w ashed w ith a liquid
such as beer, cider, wine, o r brandy durin g ripening. The
cheese ripens fro m th e o u tsid e to th e center. W hen fu lly
PO N TL'E VE Q U E
HUDSON V A L L E Y C A M E M B ER T
l8 8 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
ripe, m o st s o ft cheeses should bulge (at room te m p e ra ­
tu re ) when cut, and have a fu ll fla vo r. These cheeses are
ty p ic a lly sprayed o r du sted w ith a m old and the n allow ed
to ripen. S o ft ripened cheeses are available w ith v a ry ­
ing degrees o f richness. For exam ple, single, double, and
trip le cream cheeses have 5 0 ,6 0 , and 70 pe rce n t b u t­
te rfa t, re sp e ctive ly.
TALEGGIO
REBLO CHO N
EX PLO R A T E U R
 soft/rind-ripened cheeses
Soft/Rind-Ripened Cheeses
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

BRIE P a ste u rize d w hole o r skim cow's o r Table cheese. In sandw iches, salads
go at's m ilk, so m e tim e s cream . L ig h t
y e llo w w heels. B u tte ry , pungent.
S o ft, sm ooth, w ith ed ib le rind;
cream y

CAMEMBERT Raw o r p a ste u rize d w h ole cow's Table cheese. In sandw iches
o r goat's m ilk. L ig h t ye llo w d isk o r
square. M ild, m u sh ro o m -like fla v o r.
S o ft, cream y, w ith ed ib le rind

EXPLORATEUR W hole cow's m ilk and cream . Pale Table cheese. E xce lle n t w ith Champagne
ye llo w ba rrels, disks, or w heels. Rich,
m ild; s o ft, cream y, sm oo th

LIMBURGER W hole o r lo w -fa t cow's m ilk. L ig h t Table cheese, w ith f r u it and veg etab le s
ye llo w block, brow n e x te rio r. V ery
s tro n g fla v o r and arom a, sa lty . S o ft,
sm oo th , w axy

PO NTL’EVEQUE W hole cow ’s m ilk. L ig h t y e llo w Table cheese. In d e sse rts, crepes, salads
square. P iquant, s tro n g arom a. S o ft,
supple, w ith sm all holes and ed ib le
g o ld e n -y e llo w rind; washed rind

TALEGGIO Raw cow's m ilk. L ig h t y e llo w square. Table cheese. In salads. As cooking
T art, sa lty , b u tte ry , and p o w e rfu l in g re d ie n t
(depending on age). Has som e sm all
holes; washed rind

EPOISSES Cow’s m ilk. Blond, a lm o s t s tra w - Table cheese. As dish accom panim ent
co lo re d disks. Rich, huge fla v o r;
p le a s a n tly sm elly, b a rn y a rd -lik e
arom a. S m ooth; washed rind

REBLOCHON Cow's m ilk. Ivory disk. Sweet, Table cheese, w ith f r u it o r bread
p o w e rfu l, n u tty . Cream y, ve lve ty;
w ashed rind

c h a p te r 9 » D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
 semisoft cheeses Semisoft cheeses are
more solid than soft cheeses; while they do not grate
easily, they are ideal for slicing. A significant character­
istic of these cheeses is their use as a melting cheese.
These cheeses are allowed to age for specific periods of
time, though not quite as long as hard or grating cheeses.
Semisoft cheeses may be ripened through one of three
processes: washed rind; natural rind cheeses are al­
lowed to form a rind during ripening; and wax-rind
cheeses are sealed in wax prior to aging.

CARAW AY HAVARTI

CACIOTTA
M U EN STER

MORBIER

M O N T ER E Y JACK

190 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN

 semisoft cheeses
Semisoft Cheeses
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

CACIOTTA W hole cow ’s m ilk cheese. S e m is o ft w ith Table cheese. G reat m e ltin g cheese
som e curd holes and a th ic k , ye llo w ish
wax. Aged f o r 2 m onths. M e llo w and
savory; ava ila ble fla v o re d w ith chiles or
herbs

FONTINA W hole cow's or sheep's m ilk. M edium Table cheese. In sandw iches. As
ye llo w wheel. M ild, grassy, f r u ity , n u tty co o kin g in g re d ie n t. In fon due s. G reat
m e ltin g cheese

HAVARTI C re am -en rich ed cow's m ilk. W h ite to Table cheese. G reat on sandw iches
lig h t ye llo w blocks o r w heels. Very m ild,
b u tte ry , o fte n fla v o re d w ith herbs, spices,
or peppers. Cream y, w ith sm all holes

MORBIER W hole cow's m ilk. L ig h t ye llo w w heel Table cheese. As a coo kin g in gre die nt.
w ith in te rn a l ed ib le ash layer; brow n In o m e le ts, crepes
cru st. Creamy, sm oo th . F ru ity , n u tty ,
w ith h a y-like arom a

M O NTEREY JACK W hole p a ste u rize d cow ’s m ilk. L ig h t Table cheese. G reat m e ltin g cheese
ye llo w w h ee l o r block. M ild ; m ay be
fla v o re d w ith ja la p e n o s

MUENSTER W hole cow's m ilk. L ig h t ye llo w w heel Table cheese. G reat m e ltin g cheese
o r block; rin d m ay be orange. M ild to
pungent, de pe nd ing on age. S m ooth,
w a xy w ith sm all holes

PORT-SALUT W hole o r lo w -fa t cow ’s m ilk. Y ellow Table cheese, w ith raw onions and
block; orange rind. B u tte ry , m e llo w to beer. G re a t m e ltin g cheese
sharp. S m oo th w ith tin y holes

c h a p te r 9 » D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 191
 firm cheeses Firm cheeses have a firm and
drier texture than semisoft cheeses and a firm consis­
tency. They slice and grate easily. Cheeses that fall into
this category are made by varying processes. One of
the most common is Cheddar. The cheddaring process
originated in England, but a variety of cheeses that
originated in the United States are made using the same
method. Some examples are Colby, Monterey Jack, and
dry Jack cheeses.

M AN CH EGO
EM M E N TALE R
G R U YE R E

AGED
PROVOLONE

AGED GOUDA

RICOTTA SALATA

AGED CHEDDAR
AGED PECORINO
(ANTICO M UGELLO )

192 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 != b
H-i

Firm Cheeses 3
VARIETY DESCRIPTION n
COMMON CULINARY USES

CANTAL W hole cow ’s m ilk. L ig h t ye llo w cylinder. Table cheese. In salads, sandw iches. O)
M ild, b u tte ry fla vo r. C rum bly, firm W ith f r u it rt)
in
CHEDDAR W hole cow's m ilk. L ig h t to m edium Table cheese, w ith beer. In a>
m
ye llo w w heels o r re cta n g le s. M ild to sandw iches. As coo kin g in gre die nt.
sharp, de pe nd ing on age. S w e et gra ssy G reat m e ltin g cheese
arom a. B u tte ry , rich

EMMENTALER Raw o r p a ste u rize d p a rt-s k im cow's m ilk. Table cheese. G reat m e ltin g cheese.
L ig h t ye llo w w heel. Full fla v o re d , n u tty , In fon due s, sandw iches
fru ity . S m ooth, shiny, w ith large holes.
C om m only called S w iss cheese

GOUDA W hole cow ’s m ilk. W heel, usually coa ted Table cheese. G reat m e ltin g cheese.
w ith red wax; ranges fro m go ld en to Aged Gouda can be g ra te d
am ber, de pe nd ing on age. M ild, cream y,
s lig h tly n u tty fla v o r. S m oo th, may have
tin y holes. M ay be sm oked

JARLSBERG P a rt-s k im cow ’s m ilk. L ig h t y e llo w wheel. Table cheese. G reat m e ltin g cheese
Sharp, n u tty fla v o r. Large holes. Very
po p u la r in th e U n ite d S ta te s

MANCHEGO W hole sheep's m ilk. W h ite to ye llo w ish Table cheese. In salads. Can be gra te d
w heel; bro w n ish -g ra y ba ske t-w e a ve rind.
S lig h tly briny, n u tty fla v o r. T iny holes

PROVOLONE W hole cow ’s m ilk. Shaped like a pear, Table cheese, w ith olives, bread, raw
sausage, o r round ball. Pale ye llo w w ith veg e ta b le s, salam i. In sandw iches.
ye llo w to g o ld e n -b ro w n rind. Sharp G re a t m e ltin g cheese
fla v o r. E lastic, oily. M ay be sm oked

RICOTTASALATA W hole sheep's m ilk. Pure w h ite cylinder. In pasta, salads. Table cheese, w ith
S alty, n u tty fla vo r. S m oo th b u t cru m b ly salam i, fr u it, and veg etab le s

GRUYERE W hole raw cow's m ilk. F la t beige w heels In fon d u e , g ra tin s , soups, sandw iches.
w ith brow n rind. F ru ity , n u tty fla v o r. As co o kin g in g re d ie n t
S m oo th; may have c ry s ta ls

Chapter 9 » D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D I D E N T IF IC A T IO N 193

 hard cheeses Hard cheeses are ty p ic a lly g ra t­
ed or shaved ra th e r tha n cu t in to slices because o f th e ir
granular te x tu re . In Italy, th e se cheeses are known as
granas (grainy cheeses) because o f th e ir gra n u la r te x ­
tu re . The c h a ra c te ris tic te x tu re o f hard cheeses is due,
in large p a rt, to th e long aging process th a t ty p ic a lly
la sts fro m tw o to seven years, alth ou gh some cheeses
may be aged f o r lo ng er periods. They are ve ry hard, low-
m o is tu re cheeses, m aking th e m less prone to spoilage
than o th e r cheeses.

PARM IGIANO -REGGIANO

PECORINO ROM ANO
ASIAGO

G R A N A PADANO

' > ■*’ it z i

- . V -
. jy • ' * ' r '*

DRY M O N T ER E Y JACK

QUESO COTIJA

194 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN

 hard cheeses
Hard Cheeses
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

ASIAGO W hole o r p a rt-s k im cow's m ilk. L ig h t In salads, pasta. Table cheese, w ith
ye llo w w heels w ith gra y rind. M ild to f r u it and bread
sharp fla vo r, de pe nd ing on age

PARM IG IANO- P a rt-s k im cow ’s m ilk. Large drum s, Table cheese. G rated over pasta
REGGIANO stra w -c o lo re d in te rio r w ith go ld en rind. or ris o tto . In salads. Rind is used in
Sharp, n u tty , s a lty fla v o r. Very hard, dry, ve g e ta b le s to c k s and soups
crum b ly

DRY M O NTEREY JACK W hole o r p a rt-s k im cow's m ilk. Pale Table cheese. G rated over pasta.
yellow . Rich, sharp, s lig h tly n u tty fla v o r Aged used in salads

PECORINO ROMANO W hole sheep's m ilk. Tall cylin d e rs, w h ite Table cheese. G rated over pasta or
w ith th in , black rind. V ery sharp, sa lty, ris o tto . In salads
p e p p e ry fla v o r. Dry, cru m b ly

SAP S AG O /G LAR N ER S kim cow ’s m ilk. L ig h t green fla tte n e d G rated on noodles, salads, o r soups.
SCHABZIGER cone. P iquant, sharp, sa g e -a n d -le ttu c e M ixe d w ith b u tte r o r y o g u rt in dips
fla vo r. Very hard, gra n u la r

G RANAPADANO Cow’s m ilk. Drum s, go ld en co lo re d . M ild G rated. As a less-expensive

fla v o r. V ery hard a lte rn a tiv e to P arm igiano-R eggiano
fo r coo kin g

Chapter 9 » D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 195

 blue-veined cheeses B lue-veined b e fo re ripening. A fte r being in je c te d w ith th e mold,
cheeses have con sisten cies th a t range fro m sm oo th and the se cheeses are the n sa lte d or brine d b e fo re being
cream y to dry and crum bly. T h e ir blue veinin g is allow ed to rip en in dark, cool, dam p con ditions.
th e re s u lt o f a special m old th e cheese is exposed to

ROQUEFORT

SPANISH BLUE

196 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 blue-veined cheeses
Blue-Veined Cheeses
VARIETY DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

DANISH BLUE W hole cow's m ilk. W h ite b locks or In dressings, salads, spreads. Sliced.
drum s, no rind. S tron g, sharp, s a lty As a co o kin g in g re d ie n t
fla v o r. Firm , cru m b ly

GORGONZOLA W hole cow's a n d /o r g o at's m ilk. M edium Table cheese, w ith fr u it. In salads,
y e llo w w heel w ith blue m arb lin g. Tangy, pizza, spreads. As coo kin g in gre die nt.
p iq u a n t fla vo r. S e m is o ft, cream y; Sliced
crum b les w e ll

ROQUEFORT Raw sheep's m ilk. Ivory c y lin d e r w ith Table cheese. In salads. As a cooking
blue -gree n m arb lin g. Deep, fu ll, spicy in g re d ie n t.
fla v o r. S e m is o ft, cru m b ly

STILTON W hole cow ’s m ilk. Tall cylinde r, iv o ry - Table cheese. In salads. As a cooking
co lo re d pa ste w ith b lu e -gree n m arb lin g. in g re d ie n t.
Full, rich; cheesy fla v o r, sp icy arom a.
F irm y e t cru m b ly

SPANISH BLUE Cow's, sheep’s, o r go a t's m ilk. S tra w - Table cheese. In salads. As a cooking
co lo re d c y lin d e r w ith p u rp lis h -b lu e in g re d ie n t
veins. S alty, sharp, ta n g y fla vo r. M o is t,
crum b ly. Com mon v a rie ty is Cabrales

AM ERICAN ARTISAN- Exam ples are P oint Reyes and M aytag. Table cheese. In dressings, salads. As
STYLE BLUE CHEESE Range in fla v o r and te x tu re , and ty p e o f a co o kin g in g re d ie n t
m ilk

ch a p te r 9 » D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 197
eggs
Eggs are one o f th e kitchen's m o st im p o rta n t item s.
From m ayonnaise to m eringues, soups to sauces, appe­
tiz e rs to de sserts, th e y are p ro m in e n t on any menu. The
a b ility to se le c t th e rig h t egg f o r a p a rtic u la r dish (shell
egg, yolks only, w h ite s only, o r pa ste u rize d eggs) is c r it i­
cal to its success. To learn m ore a b o u t coo kin g eggs, see
C h ap te r 26.
GRADING, SIZES, AND FORMS
Eggs are graded by th e U.S. D e p a rtm e n t o f A g ric u ltu re
on the basis o f e xte rn a l appearance and freshness. The
to p grade, AA, in d ica te s th a t th e egg is fre sh , w ith a
w h ite th a t w ill n o t spread unduly once th e egg is broken,
and a yolk th a t rid es high on th e w h ite's surface. The yolk
should also be anchored in place by m em branes known
as th e chalazae.
Eggs come in a num ber o f sizes: jum bo, e xtra large,
large, m edium , sm all, and peewee. Younger hens, also
known as p u lle ts, produce sm a lle r eggs, w hich are o fte n
regarded as b e tte r q u a lity than la rg e r eggs. M edium
eggs are b e st f o r b re a k fa s t cookery, where th e cooked
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
egg’s appearance is im p o rta n t. Large and extra -la rg e
eggs are g e n e ra lly used f o r coo kin g and baking, where
th e w hole egg's appearance is less critic a l.
Eggs are also sold in several processed form s:
bulk or flu id w hole eggs (which so m e tim es includes a
pe rcen ta ge o f e xtra yolks to o b ta in a sp e c ific blend),
egg w h ite s, and egg yolks. P asteurized eggs are used in
p re p a ra tio n s such as salad dressings, eggnog, or des­
serts, w here th e tra d itio n a l recipe may have in d ica te d
th a t th e eggs should be raw. These p ro d u cts ge ne rally
are available in liq u id o r fro z e n fo rm .
D ried pow dered eggs are also available, and may
be use fu l f o r som e baked goods o r in c e rta in circu m ­
stances. For instance, on board a ship, it may n o t be pos­
sible to p ro p e rly s to re fre s h eggs fo r th e d u ra tio n o f a
voyage.
Egg s u b s titu te s may be e n tire ly e g g -fre e o r may be
produced fro m egg w h ite s, w ith da iry or v eg etab le p ro d ­
ucts s u b s titu te d f o r th e yolks. These s u b s titu te s are
im p o rta n t fo r people who req uire a re d u ce d -ch o le ste ro l
diet.
dry goods
identification
Dry goods include a wide range of ingredients that are essential to almost every
preparation in any foodservice operation. They must be chosen, purchased, and
stored with the same degree of care as required by fresh meats or produce

CHAPTER 10

mm#

• SSSSS
■ ■ I
 purchasing and storage
Dry goods are also re fe rre d to as no nperishable goods.
However, like pe rish able goods, the se in g re d ie n ts lose
q u a lity over tim e . Keeping an adequate s to c k on hand is
e sse n tia l to a sm o o th -ru n n in g o p e ra tio n , b u t having to o
much tie s up necessary space and money. R o ta tin g dry
goods and o b se rvin g a rule o f " f ir s t in, f ir s t o u t" is ju s t
as im p o rta n t f o r d ry goods as it is f o r m ore pe rish able
foo ds.
grains, meals, and flours
This broad ca te g o ry exte nds fro m w hole grains such
as rice and ba rle y to cornm eal and p a s try flo u r. Grains
are v e rs a tile and universal fo o d s enjoyed w o rldw id e,
in every cuisine and cu ltu re . W hile th e y are im p o rta n t
sources o f n u tritio n , it is also th e ir su b tle b u t s a tis fy ­
ing fla v o rs and te x tu re s th a t give the m such culina ry
im p ortan ce.
W hea t and corn are o f p rim a ry im p o rta n ce in
W estern c o u n trie s such as th e U n ited S ta te s and
Canada. Rice is fu n d a m e n ta l to m any Asian cuisines. In
fa c t, in many Asian languages, th e w ord f o r rice is the
same as th a t f o r fo o d . O th e r c u ltu re s re ly upon grains
such as oats, rye, and buckw heat.
G rains are th e fr u its and seeds o f cereal grasses. For
th e m o st pa rt, th e y are inexpensive and re a d ily a v a il­
able, and pro vid e a valuable and co n ce n tra te d source o f
n u trie n ts and fib e r. A lth o u g h grains d iff e r in appearance
fro m o th e r f r u its (apples and pears, f o r exam ple), th e ir
s tru c tu re is q u ite sim ilar.
W hole grains are grains th a t have n o t been m illed.
They te n d to have a s h o rte r life span than m ille d grains
200 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
S to re d ry goods in an area th a t is dry, p ro p e rly v en­
tila te d , and accessible. A ll goods should be placed above
flo o r level on shelving o r p a lle ts. Some d ry item s, such
as w hole grains, nuts and seeds, and c o ffe e ( if th e y are
n o t vacuum packed, and a fte r th e seals are broken), are
b e st s to re d in th e re frig e ra to r o r even th e freeze r.
and th e re fo re should be purchased in am ounts th a t
can be used in a re la tiv e ly s h o rt pe rio d o f tim e — tw o
to th re e weeks. M ille d grains have been polished; th a t
is, th e y have had th e germ , bran, a n d /o r hull rem oved.
A lth o u g h m ille d grains te n d to la s t longer, som e o f th e ir
n u tritiv e value is lo s t du rin g th e processing.
M ille d grains th a t are broken in to coarse p a rticle s
may be re fe rre d to as cracked. If th e m illin g process
continues, m eals and cereals (cornm eal, fa rin a , Cream o f
Rice) are fo rm e d . Finally, th e grain may be ground in to a
fin e pow der known as flo u r.
Various m etho ds are used f o r m illing: crushing be­
tw e e n m e ta l ro lle rs, g rin d in g betw een stones, o r c u ttin g
w ith ste e l blades in an actio n s im ila r to th a t o f a fo o d
processor. S to n e -g ro u n d grains may be p re fe ra b le in
som e cases, because th e y rem ain a t a low er te m p e ra ­
tu re du rin g p ro cessing com pared to o th e r typ e s o f
m illin g and so re ta in m ore o f th e ir n u tritiv e value. The
fo llo w in g ta b le s de scrib e som e o f th e available fo rm s
f o r several d iffe re n t grains.
 w heat
wheat Abundant and economical, wheat has greatest amount of protein. Wheat is used in a variety of
been cultivated for thousands of years. It is by far the savory and sweet dishes. It is versatile and flavorful.
most nutritious of all the staple grains, containing the

ch a p te r 10 » DRY G O O DS I D E N T IF IC A T IO N 201
 wheat flour When milled into flour, wheat is
generally used to produce baked items. Gluten, the sub­
stance formed from wheat’s proteins, provides elasticity
and structure that aids in the development of baked
goods, specifically bread. Wheat is classified by season
and color as follows: hard red winter wheat, hard white
winter wheat, hard red spring wheat, soft red winter
wheat, and soft white winter wheat. (Durum wheat is a
particular type of hard wheat.) Winter wheat is planted
in the winter and harvested the following summer;
spring wheat is planted in the spring and harvested that
summer. Generally, spring wheat produces the hardest
flours and winter wheat the softest.

W HOLE WHEAT FLO U R

SEM O LIN A FLO U R

DURUM
FLOUR

A L L-P U R P O S E FLOUR
CA K E FLO U R

BREAD FLO UR

202 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 wheat and wheat flour
Wheat and Wheat Flour
TYPE DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

BERRIES/W HO LE U n re fin e d o r m in im a lly p ro cesse d w hole As h o t cereal. In p ila f, salads,

kernels. L ig h t brow n to re d d ish -b ro w n . breads
S om e w h at chewy. N u tty fla v o r

CRACKED C o arse ly crushed, m in im a lly processed As h o t cereal. In p ila f, salads,

kernels. L ig h t brow n to re d d ish -b ro w n . breads
S om e w h at chewy. N u tty fla v o r

BULGUR S team ed, dried , and crushed fin e , m edium , or As h o t cereal. In p ila f, salads
coarse. L ig h t brow n. Tender. M ild fla v o r (tabb ou leh )

BRAN S ep ara te d o u te r cove rin g o f w h e a t kernel. As h o t and cold cereal. In baked

Brow n fla ke s. M ild ly n u tty fla v o r go od s (bran m u ffin s )

GERM S ep ara te d em bryo o f w h e a t kernel. Sm all, As h o t and cold cereal. In baked

brow n, p e lle t-lik e . S tro n g n u tty fla vo r. goods
A vaila ble to a s te d and raw

FARINA Polished, m e d iu m -g rin d w heat. W hite, f lo u r ­ As h o t cereal

like. Very m ild fla v o r

EBLY®/TENDER S o ft, p a rb o ile d durum w h ea t. R esem bles Soups, salads, side dishes,
plum p grains o f rice in raw s ta te . R esem bles en tre es, d e sse rts
pe arl ba rle y when cooked. S u b tly m ild fla v o r;
a va ila b le raw o r cooked

WHOLE WHEAT FLOUR Hard w heat. The e n tire ke rn e l is fin e ly m illed . In baked goods, pasta, pizza
L ig h t brow n. Full, n u tty fla v o r. Graham flo u r is dough
w h ole w h e a t f lo u r w ith a co a rse r grind

ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR Blend o f hard and s o ft w h ea t. The en do spe rm In baked goods, pasta. As
is fin e ly m illed . O ff-w h ite . U su ally enriched, th ic k e n in g agent
may be bleached

BREAD/PATENT FLOUR Hard w h ea t. The en do spe rm is fin e ly m illed . In bread, s o ft ro lls

O ff-w h ite . U sually enriched, may be bleached

CAKE FLOUR S o ft w h ea t. The en dosperm is v e ry fin e ly In cakes, cookies, dum plings

m illed . Pure w h ite . U sually en rich ed and
bleached

PASTRY FLOUR S o ft w heat. The en do spe rm is ve ry fin e ly In pie dough, m u ffin s , b iscu its,
m illed . Pure w h ite . U sually en rich ed and p a s trie s
bleached

DURUM FLOUR Hard w h ea t. The en do spe rm fro m th e durum In bread, pasta

w h e a t kern el is fin e ly m illed . Pale ye llo w co lo r

SEM O LIN A FLOUR Durum w h ea t. The en do spe rm is coa rsely In pasta, gnocchi, puddings.
m illed . Pale ye llo w Used to make couscous

ch a p te r 10 » DRY GOODS I D E N T IF IC A T IO N 203

 r i C e A staple food to at least half of the world’s com­ Rice is com m e rcially cla ssifie d by size (long, medium,
munities, rice is an invaluable and versatile ingredient. and s h o rt grain). The tw o main typ e s o f rice are w h ite and
This starchy whole grain complements nearly any flavor brown. W h ite rice is m illed, w hile brown rice is unm illed,
component with which it’s paired. re s u ltin g in a m ore n u tritio u s and fib e r-p a cke d grain.

BH UT AN ESE RED RICE

CO NVERTED LONG-GRAIN RICE

LO NG-GRAIN BROWN RICE

JASM IN E RICE
POPCORN RICE

204 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 rice
Rice
TYPE DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

BROWN W hole grain, w ith th e in e d ib le husk In p ila f, salads

rem oved. L ig h t brow n. Chewy te x tu re .
N u tty fla v o r. A vaila ble as sh o rt, m edium ,
o r long grain

W HITE/PO LISHED Husk, bran, and germ rem oved. W hite. In p ila f, salads. S h o rt grain used to
M ild fla v o r. A vaila ble as sh o rt, m edium , make rice pudding
o r long grain

CO NVERTED/ U nhulled grain soaked and stea m e d In p ila f, salads

PARBOILED b e fo re th e husk, bran, and ge rm are
rem oved. V ery lig h t brow n color. F lu ffy ,
s e p a ra te gra in s when cooked

BASMATI E x tra -lo n g grain. Fine, d e lic a te te x tu re . In p ila f, salads

A ro m a tic , n u tty fla v o r. Aged to reduce
m o is tu re co n te n t. A vaila ble as brow n or
w h ite rice. Popcorn rice is a v a rie ty o f
b a sm a ti

JASMINE A ro m a tic , d e lic a te fla vo r. Long grain. In p ila f, stea m e d, rice pudding
W h ite

A R BO R IO /ITALIAN Very sh o rt, v e ry f a t grain. O ff-w h ite . In ris o tto , pudding

High s ta rch co n te n t; cream y when
cooked. V a rie tie s include C arnaroli,
P ie dm o ntese , and V ia lo ne Nano

CALASPARA Very sh o rt, ve ry fa t grain. O ff-w h ite . High In paella

sta rc h co n te n t; cream y when cooked

W ILD M arsh grass, u n re la te d to re g u la r rice. In salads, s tu ffin g , pancakes,

Long, th in grain. D ark brow n. Chewy fo rc e m e a ts . O fte n com bined w ith
te x tu re . N u tty fla v o r bro w n rice

S T IC K Y /P E A R L/ Round, s h o rt grain. Very s ta rch y; s tic k y In sushi, d e sse rts, and o th e r culina ry
G LU TIN O U S/SU SH I when cooked. S w eet, m ild fla v o r uses

RICE FLOUR W h ite rice th a t has been ve ry fin e ly As th ic k e n in g agent. In baked goods
m illed . Pow dery, w h ite . M ild fla v o r

HEIRLOOM V a rie tie s include Bhutanese Red, In salads, s tu ffin g . O fte n com bined
F orbidd en Black, and K a lijira rice. Length w ith brow n rice
and c o lo r vary

c h a p te r 10 » DRY GOODS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 205

 corn Corn is popular in many cuisines throughout many by-products (bourbon, corn oil, cornstarch, corn­
the world in numerous forms. It is often eaten fresh (on meal, corn syrup).
and off the cob) or dried, and used as the foundation of

GRITS B LU E C O R N M E A L

C O R N M EA L

m m
CORNSTARCH

206 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

 corn
Corn
FORM DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

H O M INY D ried kernels, soaked in lye to rem ove In succotash, casseroles, soups,
th e hull and germ . A vaila ble canned or stew s, side dishes. In M exican posole
dried

GRITS G round hom iny. A vaila ble in fine , As h o t cereal. In baked goods, side
m edium , and coarse g rind s dishes. P opular in th e sou thern
U n ite d S ta te s

M ASA D ried kernels, cooked and soaked in
lim ew a te r, the n ground in to dough. Pale
yellow . M o is t. V a ria tio n : masa harina,
d rie d and ground to a fin e flo u r. M u s t be
re c o n s titu te d to make a dough
Used to make to r tilla s , tam ales, and
o th e r M exican dishes. Masa harina
o fte n used in baked goods or as a
c o a tin g f o r pan fry in g or deep fry in g

CORNMEAL D ried kernels, ground to fin e , m edium , As h o t cereal. In baked goods. To coat
o r coarse te x tu re . W hite, yellow , o r blue. ite m s f o r s a u te in g or pan fry in g
V a ria tio n s: corn flo u r (fin e ly ground);
p o le n ta (coa rsely ground)

CORNSTARCH D ried kernels, hull and germ rem oved, As th ic k e n in g agent (slurry). In baked
g round to a powder. Pure w h ite goods, coa ting s

CHEF'S NOTES ON CORN

Corn, also known as maize, is a grass that
is native to the Americas and has been
cultivated there for thousands of years. It
was introduced to Europe in the fifteenth
century. Today it is widely cultivated
throughout the world, with the United
States producing about 40 percent of the
world’s harvest. Corn is grown for use as
livestock feed, as a source for biofuel, and
for human consumption.
There are a few basic varieties of corn,
which are grown for different uses. Field
corn, also known as dent corn, is grown
primarily for use as livestock feed, in in­
dustrial products, and to make processed
foods. Flint corn, which is also known as
Indian corn, is grown for the same typical
uses as field corn; however, it is also best
used for popping corn due to its starch
content. Flour corn has a kernel that is
easy to grind. It can be grown in different
colors but is most typically white. It is the
most prevalent variety grown by Native
Americans. Finally, there is sweet corn,
which contains more sugars than do other
varieties. This is the best variety for eating
off the cob. At the same stage of growth,
sweet corn will contain more than twice
the amount of sugar contained in field
corn. Freshness is most important when
buying sweet corn to be eaten off the cob
because approximately 50 percent of the
sugar will be converted to starch within the
first twenty-four hours after being picked.

Chapter 10 » DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 207

 oats Oats are a valuable source of nutrients and fi­
ber. They are readily available and inexpensive. Mainly
consumed as a hot or cold cereal, oats are also commonly
used as an ingredient in baked goods and side dishes.

208 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN

 oats
Oats
FORM DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

GROATS H ulled, usually crushed grain, esp e cia lly As h o t cereal. In salads, s tu ffin g , or
oats, b u t can be w heat, b u ckw h e a t kasha m ixed w ith o th e r cereals

R O LLED/O LD- G roats, stea m e d and fla tte n e d . Very pale As h o t cere al (oatm eal). In granola,
FASHIONED brow n, a lm o st w h ite . Round, fla k e -lik e . baked goods
Tender. A lso ava ila ble as "q u ic k -c o o k in g "
and "in s ta n t"

S T E E L-C U T/IR IS H / G roats, cu t in to pieces. Brow n, chewy As h o t cereal. In baked goods

SCOTCH

BRAN O u te r cove rin g o f th e o a t As h o t and cold cereal. In baked

goods

FLOUR G roats, m ille d in to a fin e pow der In baked goods

CHEF'S NOTES ON OATS

Oats are grown in temperate climates and
can be cultivated easily in poor soil. The
oat plant is an annual grass with either a
fall planting and midsummer harvest or a
spring planting and late summer harvest.
Most of the cultivation of oats is used for
livestock feed. However, oats contain more
soluble fiber than any other grain, mak­
ing them a good choice for healthy eating.
The bran also contains omega fatty acids,
starch, protein, vitamins, and minerals. It
is the groat, or the inner kernel of oats, that
is rolled into flakes and used as oatmeal in
breakfast foods and baking. Oats may also
be consumed raw and are used for prepar­
ing muesli and other cereals that may be
eaten cold. They are also commonly used
for beer brewing, commonly in oatmeal
stout where oats are used for a portion of
the wort.

c h a p te r 10 » DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 209
 other grains A wide variety of grains fall in the others are rarely used. In recent years, however, chefs
“others” group, as they do not fit cleanly into another have begun to experiment with many of these less com-
category. Some of these grains are quite common, while mon varieties of grains.

>•
KASH A *

A M A R A N TH

M ILLET

QUINOA

PEA R LED B A R L E Y

B A R L E Y FLOUR

FARRO

210 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 other grains
Other Grains
NAME DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

BUCKWHEAT W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. L ig h t brown. As h o t cereal. In p ila f. F lou r is used

M ild ly n u tty fla v o r f o r pancakes, blinis, baked goods

KASHA Hulled, crushed kernels (b u ckw h e a t In p ila fs, salads, savory pancakes
g ro a ts), ro a ste d . R edd ish-b row n . Chewy
te x tu re . T oasty, n u tty fla v o r

M ILLET W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. Bland fla v o r As h o t cereal. In p ila f. F lou r is used
f o r puddings, fla tb re a d s , cakes

SORGHUM C om m only bo ile d to a th ic k syrup In p o rrid g e , fla tb re a d s , beer, syrup,

m olasses

RYE W hole, cracked, o r m ille d in to flo u r. In p ila fs , salads. F lour is used fo r

Ranges fro m lig h t to d a rk brow n. Dense. baked goods
P um p ern ickel flo u r is v e ry dark, coa rsely
ground rye

TEFF W hole; e x tre m e ly tin y . L ig h t to re d d ish - In soups, casseroles. As th icke n in g

brow n. S w eet, c h e s tn u t-lik e fla v o r ag en t

AM AR AN TH W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. C o lor ranges As h o t and cold cereal. In p ila f, salads,
fro m w h ite to tan, gold, o r pink. S w e et soups
fla v o r

SPELT W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. M o d e ra te ly In p ila fs , salads. F lour is used fo r

n u tty fla v o r baked goods

JOB'S TEARS W hole; sm all, w h ite . S lig h tly chewy In p ila fs , salads
te x tu re . G rass-like fla v o r

QUINOA W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. V ery tin y In p ila fs , salads, puddings, soups, as
circles. O ff-w h ite , red, o r black. M ild an a d d itio n to po le nta
fla v o r

BARLEY H ulled and p e arl (hull and bran rem oved). In p ila fs , salads, soups. Used to make
V a rie tie s: g rits , flo u r. Tan to w h ite . N u tty w h iske y and beer
fla v o r

c h a p te r 10 » DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 211
 dried pasta and noodles Dried pasta
is a valuable convenience food. It stores well, cooks
quickly, and comes in an extensive array of shapes,
sizes, and flavors, as described in the table on pages 214
to 215. Pasta and noodles are made from a number of
different flours and grains. Good-quality dried pastas
from wheat flour are customarily made from durum
semolina. Pasta may be flavored or colored with spin­
ach, tomatoes, beets, herbs, or squid ink.

FUSILLI

ISRAELI CO USCOUS

TUBETTI
ORECCHIETTE

CO U SCO U S

ORZO

212 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 dried pasta and noodles

c h a p te r 10 » DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 213
 Dried Pasta and Noodles
NAME DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

BUCATINI H ollow , long strand s; s p a g h e tti-sh a p e d S erved w ith th ic k e r sauces

BEAN THREAD Slender, g e la tin o u s noodles. M ade fro m In soups, s tir frie s , salads, de sserts,
NOODLES m ung beans drinks. Com m on in A s ia n -in flu e n ce d
dishes

CAPELLINI Thin, long strand s. T hin ne r version: Served w ith b ro th , oil, o r ve ry lig h t
ca p e lli d'angelo (angel hair) sauces

FETTUCCINE T hick, long stra n d s; fla t, rib bo n-sha pe d Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces,
s p e c ific a lly cream sauces

LASAGNE T hick, long, fla t, w ide noodles; r u ffle d In casseroles

edges

LINGUINE Thin, long, fla tte n e d strand s. Name Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces, lig h t
com es fro m th e Ita lia n lingua, o r tongue to heavy

RICE NOODLES V arious w id th s ; long strand s. M ade fro m Com m on in A sia n -in flu e n ce d dishes
rice flo u r

SO BANO O D LES R ibbon-shaped, fin e , long stra n d s. M ade In soups, s tir frie s . Common in A sian-
fro m b u ckw h e a t flo u r in flu e n ce d dishes

SPAGHETTI V arious w id th s ; round, long strand s Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces, lig h t
to heavy

UDO N NO O D LES Thick, long stra n d s In soups, stew s, s tir frie s . Common in
A sia n -in flu e n ce d dishes

VERM ICELLI Thin, long stra n d s; s im ila r to s p a g h e tti In b ro th s, soups. Served w ith lig h t
sauces

ACINI DEPEPE Sm all, rice -shap ed Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In

soups, salads, casseroles

CASARECCIA S ho rt, ro lle d , tw is te d in to an S-shape Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In

soups, salads, casseroles

ELBOWS S h o rt, narrow , curved tu b e s Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In

soups, salads, casseroles

FARFALLE M edium , b o w tie -sh a p e d Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In

soups, salads, casseroles

FUSILLI S h o rt, co rkscre w -sh a p e d Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In

soups, salads, casseroles

214 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 dried pasta and noodles
NAME DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

ORECCHIETTE Cupped, curved rounds S erved w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In

soups, salads, casseroles

ORZO Sm all, grain -sh ap ed Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In

soups, salads, casseroles

PENNE S h o rt tub es, sm o o th o r ridged, Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In

d ia g o n a lly cut soups, salads, casseroles

RADIATORE S ho rt, chunky w ith rip p le d edges S erved w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In
soups, salads, casseroles

RIGATONI T hick, rid ge d tu b e s Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In

soups, salads, casseroles

SHELLS S m all to large. Resem ble conch shells Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In
soups, salads, casseroles; la rge r
she lls s tu ffe d

TUBETTI Sm all to m edium , tu b e -sh a p e d Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In

soups, salads, casseroles

COUSCOUS Sm all, irre g u la r shape; g ra in -lik e . S im ila r As h o t cereal. In p ila fs , salads

to coarse sand

ISRAELI COUSCOUS L a rge r than tra d itio n a l couscous. P earl- In p ila fs , salads, soups
like, sm oo th , round balls. Chewy te x tu re .
S o m e tim e s to a s te d

ITALIAN CO USCOUS/ L a rge r tha n tra d itio n a l couscous; In salads, fis h - o r to m a to -b a s e d

FREG O LASARD A irre g u la r shape. S un-baked. G olden soups
brow n. Chewy te x tu re . N u tty fla v o r

c h a p te r i o » DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 2 15
 dried legumes Commonly referred to as
beans or peas, legumes are the dried seeds of pod-bear-
ing plants. Legumes are considered to be a staple food
to many cuisines throughout the world.
Legumes become drier and harder and require
a longer cooking time as they age, so they are best if
used within six months of purchase. When purchasing
legumes, look for beans/peas that are bright and shiny
and free of dust or mold.
Always rinse them before preparing, to remove any
foreign, inedible debris. Discard any beans or peas that
appear moldy, damp, or wrinkled.

1 •
LENTILS RED LENTILS
GREEN LENTILS

CH ICKPEAS

PIGEON PEAS
GREEN SPLIT PEAS

F LA G EO LETS
B LA C K BEAN S
LIM A B EAN S

C R A N B E R R Y B EAN S K ID N EY B EA N S GREAT NORTHERN BEAN S

216 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN

 dried legumes
Dried Legumes
NAME(S) DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

beans

ADZUKI Sm all. R e ddish-brow n. A vaila ble w hole P opular in Japanese cuisine. Used
or pow dered. S w e e t fla v o r in c o n fe c tio n s as a sw e e t pa ste or
s u g a r-co a te d . In savory dishes

BLACK/TURTLE Large. Black e x te rio r, lig h t cream y In soups, stew s, salsas, salads, side
in te rio r. S w e et fla v o r dishes

CANARY S lig h tly sm a lle r tha n p in to beans. P opular in Peruvian dishes,

C anary-yellow . S w e et and n u tty fla v o r s p e c ific a lly stew s

C A N N E LLIN I/IT A LIA N M edium ; kidney-shaped. W h ite . N u tty M in e s tro n e soup, salads, stew s, side
KIDNEY fla v o r dishes

CRANBERRY Sm all, round. L ig h t ta n w ith m aroon In soups, stew s, salads, side dishes
m arkings. N u tty fla v o r

FAVA/BROAD Large, f la t oval. Tan. H erbaceous fla v o r P opular in M e d ite rra n e a n and M id d le
w ith a firm te x tu re E astern cuisines. In fa la fe l, soups,
stew s, salads, side dishes

FLAGEOLETS Sm all; kidney-shaped. Pale green to S erved w ith lamb. Braised and pureed
cream y w h ite . D e lica te fla v o r as a side dish

G ARBANZO /C HICKPEAS M edium , acorn-shaped. Beige. N u tty P opular in m any e th n ic dishes. In

fla v o r couscous, hummus, soups, stew s,
salads, side dishes

GREAT NORTHERN Large; s lig h tly rounded. W hite. M ild ly In soups, stew s, casseroles, side
d e lic a te fla v o r dishes

KIDNEY M edium ; kidne y-shap ed . Pink to m aroon. In c h ili con carne, re frie d beans,
F u ll-b o d ie d fla v o r beans and rice, soups, stew s,
casseroles, side dishes

LENTILS Sm all; round. Brown; v a rie tie s include Served w h ole or pureed as an
French (gra y-gree n e x te rio r w ith pale a cco m pa nim e nt. In soups, stew s,
ye llo w in te rio r), red, yellow , s p lit w h ite . salads, side dishes
P eppery fla v o r

LIM A /B U T TE R M edium ; s lig h tly f la t kidney-shape. In succotash, soups, stew s, salads,

W h ite to pale green. B u tte ry fla v o r side dishes

MUNG Sm all; round. Green. Tender te x tu re and S p ro u te d f o r bean spro uts. Ground
s lig h tly sw e e t fla v o r in to flo u r to make cellophane noodles
and bean th re a d s

N AVY/YAN KEE Sm all; round. W hite. M ild fla v o r In baked beans, chili, soups, salads

ch a p te r 10 » DRY G O O DS I D E N T IF IC A T IO N 217
Dried Legumes, continued
NAME(S) DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES :

PINTO/RED MEXICAN M edium ; tu b u la r. Beige w ith brown In chili, re frie d beans, stew s, soups
stre a k s

RICE H e irlo o m bean. Very sm all, plum p, As s u b s titu te f o r rice. In soups,

capsule-shaped; resem bles rice grains. stew s, casseroles, side dishes
M ild, s lig h tly b itt e r fla v o r

SOYBEANS Sm all; pea- to che rry-sha ped ; d ried In soups, stew s, casseroles, side
ve rsio n is m ature bean. Red, yellow , dishes
green, brow n, black. Bland fla v o r

HEIRLOOM (CALYPSO, Range tre m e n d o u s ly in size and color; In soups, stew s, casseroles, side
TONGUES OF FIRE, m any have s trip e s o r speckles dishes, salads
JACOB'S CATTLE,
MADEIRA, AND OTHERS)

peas

BLACK-EYED Sm all; kidney-shaped. Beige w ith black In h o pp in’ John, soups, side dishes
"eye." E a rth y fla v o r

PIGEO N/G ANDULES Sm all, n e arly round. Beige w ith orange P opular in A frica n , C aribbean, and
s p o ttin g . S w e et fla v o r s im ila r to lima Indian dishes
beans

SPLIT Sm all, round. Green o r yellow . E arth y In s p lit pea soup, salads, side dishes
fla v o r

T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN


nuts and seeds Nuts are the fruits of various
trees, with the exception of the peanut, which grows
underground in the root system of a leguminous plant.
Nuts are available in the shell, shelled and roasted,
blanched, sliced, slivered, halved, and chopped. Nuts
are also used to produce butters, such as the ever-popu-
lar peanut butter.
nuts and seeds
Considering that nuts are somewhat expensive,
storing them properly is a must. They are susceptible to
turning rancid rather quickly. Nuts that have not been
roasted or shelled will keep longer. Shelled nuts may
be stored in the freezer or refrigerator to allow for an
extended shelf life.

ALM O N D S
PEC AN S H A ZELN U T S

PEAN U TS M A C A D A M IA S CASH EW S

PINE NUTS

PU M PKIN SEEDS SU N FLO W ER SEEDS

PISTACHIOS

B LA C K S E S A M E S EED S
WHITE S E S A M E SEEDS

PO PPYSEED S

c h a p te r 10 » DRY G O O DS I D E N T IF IC A T IO N 2ig
 Nuts and Seeds
| NAME(S) DESCRIPTION
nuts
ALM O ND T eardrop-shaped. Pale tan, w o od y shell.
S w e et fla v o r. A vaila ble w h ole in shell;
shelled, blanched, slivered , sliced, s p lit,
chopped, ground (m eal and flo u r)
BRAZIL Large, tria n g u la r nut. D ark brow n, hard
shell. W hite, rich nut
CASHEW K idney-shaped. Tan nut. B u tte ry , s lig h tly
sw e et fla v o r. O nly sold hulled (its skin
con tain s oils s im ila r to th o se in poison
ivy)
CHESTNUT F a irly large, round to te a rd ro p -sh a p e d .
Hard, glossy, da rk brow n shell; brown
in te rn a l skin. O ff-w h ite nut. S w e et fla vo r.
A vaila ble w hole in shell; shelled canned
in w a te r o r syrup, fro ze n , dried, or
pureed
H AZELN U T/FILBER T Sm all, ne arly round. S m ooth, hard shell.
Rich, sw e et, d e lic a te fla vo r. A vailable
w h ole in shell; she lle d w hole, blanched,
chopped
M AC AD AM IA N e arly round; e x tre m e ly hard shell.
G o ld e n -ye llo w nut. Rich, s lig h tly sw eet,
b u tte ry . A vaila ble shelled only
PEANUT Tan, p o d -lik e shell; pa pe ry brow n skin.
O ff-w h ite nut. D is tin c tiv e , sw e e t flavo r.
A vaila ble w hole in shell or shelled,
skinned
PECAN S m ooth, hard, thin , oval shell. Two-lobed,
b ro w n -skin n e d nut; cre a m -co lo re d
in te rio r. Rich, b u tte ry fla v o r. A vaila ble
w h ole in shell; she lle d halved, chopped
PINE/PIG NO LI Sm all, elo n g a te d kernel, ab o u t V 2 inch
long. L ig h t tan. B u tte ry , m ild fla v o r
PISTACHIO Tan shell opens s lig h tly when nut is
m ature ; shells so m e tim e s dyed red.
Green nut. S ub tle, sw e et fla vo r. A vailable
w h ole in shell, ro a ste d , usually salted.
A lso a va ila ble shelled, chopped
220 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
COMMON CULINARY USES
Eaten o u t o f hand. Used to produce
alm ond paste, alm ond b u tte r, and
alm ond oil. Used raw or to a s te d in
baked goods, co n fe ctio n s, granola,
cu rry dishes
Eaten o u t o f hand. Used raw or
to a s te d in baked goods
Eaten o u t o f hand. Used to produce
cashew b u tte r. Used raw or to a s te d
in baked goods, co n fe c tio n s
Used cooked in sw e et and savory
dishes. R oasted, boiled, pureed
Eaten o u t o f hand. Used raw or toa ste d
in sw e e t o r savory dishes, baked
goods, salads, cereals
Eaten out o f hand. Used raw or toa ste d
in baked goods, c o n fe c tio n s
Eaten o u t o f hand. Used to produce
p eanut b u tte r and peanut oil. Used
raw o r to a s te d in sw e e t o r savory
dishes, baked goods, c o n fe ctio n s,
salads
Eaten o u t o f hand. Used raw or toa ste d
in sw e et o r savo ry dishes, baked
goods, pie, co n fe c tio n s , salads
Used raw o r to a s te d in sw e e t and
savo ry dishes, baked goods, salads,
p e sto
Eaten out o f hand. Used raw or toa ste d
in sw e et and savory dishes
 nuts and seeds
NAME(S) DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

W ALNUT Thick o r th in lig h t brow n shell. Brow n- E aten o u t o f hand. Used to produce
skinned nuts grow in gnarled segm ents; w a ln u t oil. Used raw o r to a s te d in
tender, oily. M ild flavo r. A vailable w hole in sw e e t o r savory dishes. In baked
shell or shelled, halved, chopped; pickled goods, co n fe c tio n s , salads

seeds

POPPY Very tin y , round b lu e -b la ck seeds. As f illin g and to p p in g fo r baked

Crunchy te x tu re . Rich, s lig h tly m u sty goods. In salad dressings. Popular in
fla vo r. A vaila ble w hole o r ground cuisines o f ce n tra l Europe and the
M id d le East

PUMPKIN Sm all, f la t s o ft oval. C re am -colore d Used raw o r to a s te d in sw e et or

hulls. G reen ish -brow n, o ily in te rio r. savo ry dishes, baked goods. Popular
D e lica te fla vo r. A vaila ble w hole o r hulled, in M exican cuisine
usually sa lte d

FLAX Tiny, oval seeds. Golden or dark brown. Used to produce linseed oil. In baked
M ild ly n u tty. M ust be cooked b e fore eating goods, h o t and cold cereal

SESAME Tiny, fla t, oval seeds. Black, red, o r tan. Used to produce o il and ta h in i
Crunchy. S w eet, n u tty fla v o r (paste). Used raw o r to a s te d in sw eet
and savo ry dishes, baked goods,
c o n fe c tio n s , as garnish

SUNFLOW ER Sm all, som e w h at fla t, te a rd ro p -s h a p e d Used to make su n flo w e r oil. Used raw
seeds. W oody black and w h ite shell. L ig h t o r to a s te d in baked goods, salads
tan seed. M ild fla v o r. A vaila ble w h ole in
shell or shelled, usually sa lte d

ch a p te r 10 » DRY GOODS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 221

 dried spices Spices are aromatics produced
primarily from the bark and seeds of plants. They have
long been used as flavor additives for savory and sweet
dishes. Dried spices are available whole, ground, or as
spice blends.
Whole spices will generally keep longer than ground
spices. Dried spices are best stored in sealed containers
in a cool, dry environment, away from extreme heat and
direct light. For best results, purchase whole spices and
grind them just prior to using.

EPAZOTE GUMBO FILE

TURM ERIC

M USTARD SEED CARAW AY SEED FEN U G R E EK

C E L E R Y SEED CUMIN SEED CORIANDER

JUNIPER BERRIES C LO VE S
A LLS P IC E BERRIES

CA RD A M O M PODS NUTMEG

STAR ANISE

222 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 dried spices
Dried Spices
| NAME(S) DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

ALLSPICE D ried, unripened, pe a-sized b e rry o f In braises, fo rc e m e a ts , fish , de sserts

th e sm all evergreen p im ie n to tre e . Dark
re d d ish -b ro w n . Tastes like cinnam on,
nutm eg, and cloves. A vaila ble w hole or
ground

ANNATTO Dried, sm all a ch io te seeds. Deep red. N e arly P opular in L a tin A m erican and
fla v o rle s s ; im p a rts y e llo w ish -o ra n g e c o lo r C aribbean cooking. In stew s, soups,
to fo o d s. A vaila ble w hole sauces

A N AR DANA D ried po m eg rana te seeds. M u te d , deep red. P opular in Indian cuisine as souring
Sour fla v o r. A vaila ble w h ole or ground ag en t

ANISE D ried rip e f r u it o f th e herb Pim pin ella P opular in S o u th e a st Asian and
anisum. L ig h t brow n. S im ila r fla v o r to fe n n e l M e d ite rra n e a n cooking. In savory
seeds; sw e et, spicy, lic o ric e ta s te and dishes, d e sse rts, baked goods,
arom a lique ur

CARAWAY D ried f r u it o f th e a ro m a tic caraw ay plan t, P opular in A u stria n , German, and

m em ber o f th e p a rsle y fa m ily . Sm all s trip e d H ungarian cuisines. In rye bread,
cre sce n t-sh a p e d seeds. D is tin c t fla v o r pork, cabbage, soups, stew s, some
s im ila r to , b u t s w e e te r than, anise seeds cheeses, baked goods, lique ur
(kiim m e l)

CARDAMOM D ried, unripened fr u it; m em b er o f th e gin g e r In curries, baked goods, pickles

fa m ily . Sm all round seeds in green, black, or
bleached w h ite pod. S tro n g arom a; sw eet,
spicy fla v o r. A vaila ble as w hole pod, seeds,
o r ground

CAYENNE D ried, rip en ed f r u it pod o f Capsicum In sauces, soups, m eat, fis h , p o u ltry
frutesce ns. B rig h t red. H ot; spicy. A vaila ble
fre s h o r dried , w h ole o r ground

CELERY D ried seed o f a w ild ce le ry (lovage). S tro n g In salads, coleslaw , salad dressings,
ve g e ta l fla v o r. A vaila ble w hole o r ground soups, stew s, to m a to e s , baked goods

CINNAM ON D ried in ne r bark o f a tro p ic a l tre e . R eddish- In baked goods, curries, dessert
brow n. A vaila ble in s tic k s or g round sauces, beverages, stews

CLOVES D ried, unopened flo w e r o f th e tro p ic a l In s to cks, sauces, braises, m arinades,

evergreen clove tre e . R e dd ish-b row n , spike cu rrie s, pickles, d e sse rts, baked
shaped. S w eet, pung en t arom a and fla vo r. goods
A vaila ble w hole or ground

CORIANDER Dried, rip e f r u it o f th e c ila n tro plan t. Small, P opular in Asian, Indian, and M id dle
round, ta n n is h -b ro w n seeds. Unique c itru s ­ E aste rn cuisines. In curries, ground
like fla v o r. A vaila ble w hole fo rc e m e a ts , pickles, baked goods

CUMIN D ried f r u it o f a p la n t in th e p a rsle y fa m ily . P opular in Indian, M exican, and

Sm all, cre sce n t-sh a p e d seeds; th re e colors: M id d le E astern cuisines. In curries,
amber, black, w h ite . N u tty fla v o r. A vaila ble c h ili
w h ole o rg ro u n d

c h a p te r 10 » DRY GOODS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 223

 Dried Spices, continued
NAME(S) DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

DILL D ried f r u it o f th e herb A ne th u m graveolens, P opular in n o rth e rn and Eastern

m em ber o f th e p a rsle y fa m ily. Sm all tan European cuisines. In pickles,
seeds. A vaila ble w hole sa u e rkra u t, cheeses, breads, salad
dre ssin gs

EPAZOTE An herb, Chenopodium a m b ro s io id e s. P opular in M exican and Caribbean

M edium green leaves. D is tin c tiv e fla v o r and cuisines; in chili, beans, soups, stew s
arom a. A vaila ble d rie d or fre s h

FENNEL D ried, rip e f r u it o f th e p e ren nia l Foeniculum P opular seasoning blends o f

vulgare. Sm all oval seeds, lig h t g re en ish- M e d ite rra n e a n , Italian, Chinese, and
brow n. S w e et lic o ric e fla v o r and arom a. S candinavian cuisines. In sausages,
A vaila ble w h ole or ground fish , sh e llfish , to m a to e s , baked
goods, m arinades, liqueurs

FENUGREEK Seed pods fro m an annual herb. Small, fla t, P opular in Indian cuisine. In curries,
re ctan gu lar seeds; yellow ish -brow n. B itte r m eat, m arinades, p o u ltry , chutneys,
ta s te and pungent, hay-like, m aple-like spice blends, tea s
aroma. Available w hole or ground

FILE POWDER D ried leaves o f th e sassa fra s tre e . W oodsy P opular in C reole cuisine. In gum bo
fla vo r, s im ila r to ro o t beer. A vaila ble ground

GINGER P la nt fro m tro p ic a l and s u b tro p ic a l regions. P opular in Asian and Indian cuisines.
Tan, knobby, fib ro u s rhizom e. Sweet, In curries, braises, baked goods
p e p p e ry fla v o r; spicy arom a. A vailable
fre sh , candied, pickled , o r ground

HORSERADISH Large, w h ite ro o t. M em b er o f th e m u sta rd In sauces, con dim ents, egg salad,
fa m ily . Sharp, in te nse fla v o r; pungent p o ta to e s , be ets
arom a. A vaila ble d rie d o r fre s h

JUNIPER BERRIES Sm all, round d rie d b e rry o f ju n ip e r bush. In m arinades, braises, m ea ts/g am e,
D ark blue. S lig h tly b itte r; m u st crush to sa u e rkra u t, gin, liqueurs, teas
release fla v o r

MACE M em brane cove rin g o f th e nu tm e g seed. In fo rc e m e a ts , pork, fish , spinach and

B rig h t red when fre sh ; ye llo w ish -o ra n g e o th e r veg etab le s, pickles, de sserts,
when dry. S tro n g n u tm e g ta s te and arom a. baked goods
A vaila ble w h ole or ground

MUSTARD Seeds fro m p la n ts w ith in th e cabbage In pickles, m eats, sauces, cheese,

fa m ily . Three type s: tra d itio n a l w h ite /y e llo w eggs, p re p a re d m ustard
(sm aller; less pu ng en t fla v o r), brow n, and
black (la rger; pungent, h o t fla v o r). A vaila ble
w h ole or pow dered

NUTMEG Large seed o f a f r u it th a t gro w s on the In sauces, soups, veal, chicken, aspics,
tro p ic a l evergreen M y r is t ic a fragans. Sm all veg etab le s, d e sse rts, baked goods,
egg shape; da rk brow n. S w eet, spicy fla v o r eggnog
and arom a. A vaila ble w hole or ground

224 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN


NAME(S) DESCRIPTION
PAPRIKA Dried, ground pods o f sw e et red peppers.
M any v a rie tie s. S up erior fro m Hungary;
colors range fro m orange-red to deep red.
M ild to intense fla v o r and aroma. Available
ground; also Spanish sm oked (sw e et and hot)
SAFFRON D ried stig m a s o f flo w e rs o f Crocus so tivu s.
T h re a d -like ; ye llow -ora nge . One ounce
re q u ire s 1 4 ,0 0 0 stigm a s; expensive due
to la b o r-in te n s iv e process. A vaila ble as
th re a d s or pow dered
STAR ANISE Dried 8 - to 1 2 -p o in te d pod fro m Chinese
evergreen, m em ber o f th e m agnolia fa m ily.
S ta r shape; da rk brow n. Intense lico rice
fla v o r and arom a. A vaila ble w h ole o r g round
TURMERIC D ried ro o t o f th e tro p ic a l p la n t Curcuma
longa, re la te d to ginger. Shape s im ila r to
ginger; b rig h t yellow . Intense spicy fla vo r.
A vaila ble pow dered
spice mixes
CHILI POWDER Blend o f ground spices w ith d rie d chiles
as th e base. Can include cum in, cloves,
coriander, g a rlic, and oregano. Degree o f
spicine ss changes w ith v a rie ty o f chile
CHINESE FIVE-SPICE Blend o f g round spices; equal p a rts
Szechwan pe pp ercorn s, s ta r anise,
cinnam on, cloves, and fen nel. P ungent fla v o r
and arom a
CURRY POWDER Blend o f ground spices. Can include
cardam om , chiles, cinnam on, cloves,
coriander, cum in, fe n n e l seed, fe n u g re e k,
mace, nutm eg, red and black pepper, poppy
and sesame seeds, s a ffro n , ta m a rin d ,
tu rm e ric . Degree o f spicine ss and co lo r
change w ith v a rie ty
GARAM M ASALA Blend o f d ry -ro a s te d spices; many
v a ria tio n s . Can include black pepper,
cardam om , cinnam on, cloves, coriander,
cum in, d rie d chiles, fen nel, mace, nutm eg.
W arm fla v o r and arom a. W hole or ground
QUATRE EPICES French te rm m eaning "fo u r spices''; re fe rs
to a v a rie ty o f ground spice m ix tu re s . Can
in clud e pepper, allspice, ginger, cinnam on,
cloves, nu tm eg
c h a p te r 10 » DRY G O O DS I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
dried spices
COMMON CULINARY USES
P opular in H ungarian cuisine. In
braises, stew s, goulashes, sauces,
garnishes
E ssen tial in paella, bo uilla ba isse,
r is o tto M ilanese. In p o u ltry , seafood,
rice p ila fs , sauces, soups, baked
goods
P opular in Asian dishes. Used
s p a rin g ly in pork, duck, baked goods,
tea s, liqueurs
P opular in Indian and M id d le Eastern
cuisines. In curries, sauces, m ustard,
pickles, rice
P opular in S o u th w e ste rn and M exican
cuisines. In chili, c h ili con carne,
soups, stew s, sauces
P opular in Chinese cuisine. In m eats,
fish , veg etab le s, m arinades, sauces
P opular in Indian cuisine. In m eats,
sea food , veg e ta b le s, sauces, rice,
soups
P opular in Indian cuisine. In fis h , lamb,
po rk, p o u ltry , c a u liflo w e r, p o ta to e s
In stew s, soups, veg etab le s, pates,
te rrin e s
225
 salt and pepper Long valued for their pres­
ervation qualities, both salt (sodium chloride) and
pepper have been prized for centuries. However, with
refrigeration widely used today, they have become less
important as preservatives.
Available in many forms, salt is a precious mineral
that can be obtained from two different sources and
processes; it is either mined or evaporated from seawa­
ter. Free of shelf life concerns, salt is best stored in a
dry place. In humid weather, salt may cake together; to
prevent this, mix a few grains of rice in with the salt.
Peppercorns are berries grown on trees in tropi­
cal regions around the world. The type and flavor of
peppercorn depends on when it is harvested. Whole
peppercorns will retain their flavor almost indefinitely,
but they must be crushed or ground for the flavor to be
released.

Salt and Pepper

TYPE DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES ;

salt

CURING 9 3 .7 5 % ta b le salt, 6.2 5% sodium n itra te . C uring m eats and fis h

S om etim es it is dyed pink to d iffe re n tia te
fro m o th e r salts

KOSHER Flaky, coarse grains. Iodine fre e . M u ltip u rp o s e fla v o r enhancer.

D eveloped f o r p re p a ra tio n o f kosher C ooking, canning, p ic k lin g
m eats. P re fe rre d over ta b le s a lt by m any

IODIZED Table s a lt f o r t if ie d w ith iodine, a n u trie n t M u ltip u rp o s e fla v o r enhancer. In

s u p p le m e n t to re g u la te th y ro id . Can baked goods
im p a rt b itt e r ta s te . M ay re a ct w ith
c e rta in fo o d s

MSG (M O NO SODIUM Food a d d itiv e , de rive d fro m g lu ta m ic Used in m any processed fo o d s

GLUTAMATE) acid. In te n s ifie s th e fla v o r o f savory
fo o d s

PICKLING/CANNING S im ila r to ta b le salt. C ontains no P ickling, canning. S u b s titu te s fo r

a d d itiv e s ; w ill clum p when exposed to ta b le s a lt as fla v o r enhancer
m o istu re . P rovides pure ta s te and cle ar
p ic k lin g /c a n n in g liq u id

ROCK Very coarse grains. Inexpensive Used in crank ice cream machines.
P rovide s bed f o r sh e llfis h
_
SALT SU BSTITU TES/ Some or all sodium ch lo rid e is replaced S o d iu m -re s tric te d cooking.
LIGHT SALT w ith p o ta ssiu m ch lo rid e S u b s titu te s f o r ta b le s a lt as fla v o r
enhancer

SEA/BAY Thin, fla k y layers. Produced fro m F la vo r and te x tu re enhancer. Do n o t

e va p o ra te d seaw ater. C ontains tra c e use f o r p icklin g , canning, or baking
m inerals. Intense fla vo r. F ine -gra in and
la rg e r c ry s ta ls available

226 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

 in
P

TYPE DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES P

2
SEASONED Table s a lt com b in ed w ith o th e r fla v o r F lavo r enhancer f o r s p e c ific
a d d itiv e s p re p a ra tio n s 0 -

1 3
TABLE Sodium ch lo rid e . Two v a rie tie s : iodin e M u ltip u rp o s e fla v o r enhancer C
D
fo r t if ie d and n o n fo rtifie d . C ontains
added calcium s ilic a te f o r a n tic a k in g and
13
d e x tro s e to s ta b iliz e 13
0>
1 -i
pep p er

BLACK PEPPERCORNS D ried, dark, sh rive le d be rry. Picked M u ltip u rp o s e fla v o r enhancer.
un rip e and allow ed to dry. S trong, Curing, p icklin g , sach et d'epices
p e p p e ry fla v o r. M o s t com m on o f all
peppers. Two v a rie tie s : T e llic h e rry and
Lam pong. A vaila ble as w h ole be rries,
cracked, o r ground

GREEN PEPPERCORNS S o ft, un ripened b e rry. M ild , s lig h tly Seasoning, fla v o r enhancer
b itin g fla v o r. S im ila r to capers in
appearance. A vaila ble fre e z e -d rie d , or
packed in vin e g a r o r brine

PINK PEPPERCORNS D ried b e rry o f th e Baies rose plan t. Seasoning m ea t and fis h dishes,
Rose colore d. Pungent; s lig h tly sw eet. sauces
Expensive. A vaila ble fre e z e -d rie d or
packed in brine o r w a te r

SZECHW AN D ried b e rry o f th e p ric k ly ash tre e . P opular in th e cuisines o f China's

PEPPERCORNS R esem bles black p e pp ercorn s; deep red; Szechwan and Hunan provinces
c on tain s a sm all seed. H ot, spicy fla vo r.
A vaila ble w h ole o r pow dered

W HITE PEPPERCORNS Ripened p e p p e rco rn w ith e x te rio r skin S easoning lig h t-c o lo re d sauces and
rem oved. Beige. M ild fla v o r, flo w e ry fo o d s
arom a. A vaila ble as w h ole be rries,
cracked, o r ground

c h a p te r i o » DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 227
 sweeteners Once a symbol of wealth and pros­
perity, sugar is now widely used in all facets of the pro­
fessional kitchen. Sugar is extracted from plant sources
(sugar beets and sugarcane) and refined into the desired
form. Most varieties of syrup, such as maple, corn,
molasses, and honey, are derived from plants as well.
The flavor intensity of sweeteners typically corresponds
with the color— the darker the sugar or syrup, the more
concentrated the flavor.
M A P LE SU G A R
TURBINADO
228 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
Sugar is responsible for the caramelization process,
balancing the acidity in foods, and contributing to the
appearance, flavor, and viscosity of glazes, sauces, and
marinades. In the bakeshop, sugar adds sweetness,
retains moisture, prolongs freshness/shelf life, aids in
the creaming process, and imparts color and flavor to
crusts. Selecting the proper sweetener will help deter­
mine the desired end product.
H O N EY LIGHT CORN S Y R U P
LIGHT BROWN SU G A R DARK BROWN SU G AR
CO A RSE S U G A R
SU G A R CU BES
 sw eeteners
Sweeteners
TYPE DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

sugar

ARTIFICIAL Sugar s u b s titu te s . N o n n u tritiv e values. Table use. N o t recom m ended f o r all
SWEETENERS V a rie tie s include (b u t n o t lim ite d to): b a kin g and coo kin g uses
asp artam e , ace sulfa m e-k, saccharin,
stevia , and sucralose

BROWN R efined, g ra n u la te d sugar w ith some In baked goods, p a stry, sauces,

im p u ritie s rem a ining o r m olasses added. savo ry dishes
S om ew hat m o ist. Two v a ria tio n s : lig h t
and dark; dark brow n has m ore in te nse
(m olasses) fla v o r

CONFECTIONERS'/ Pure re fin e d sugar. W hite. Fine powder. In baked goods, p a stry, icings,
P O W D E R E D /lO X M in im a l am o un t o f c o rn s ta rc h added to c o n fe c tio n s . As d e c o ra tiv e garnish
p re ve n t clu m pin g

G RANU LATED/W H ITE Pure re fin e d cane or b e e t sugar. W hite. In baked goods, p a stry, sauces,
G enerally sm all granules; ava ila ble savo ry dishes
in va rio u s sizes: coarse (c ry s ta l/
d e co ra tin g ), s u p e rfin e , cubes, ta b le ts

M APLE M aple sap boile d u n til near e va p o ra tio n . In baked goods and savory dishes.
Pale tan. Fine powder. M uch s w e e te r As sw e e t a d d itiv e to cereals, yog urt,
than g ra n u la te d sugar c o ffe e , tea

PILONCILLO U n re fin e d , hard com p resse d sugar fro m S u b s titu te f o r da rk brow n sugar. In
M exico. M edium to dark brow n. Cone savo ry dishes
shaped; 3/t-o u n c e to 9-ounce cones. Two
v a rie tie s : bianco (lig h te r) and oscuro
(darker)

JAG GERY/PALM U n re fin e d ; fro m palm tre e sap or P opular in Indian cuisine. As
sugarcane. Dark. Coarse grains. spread f o r breads. In baked goods,
A vaila ble in several fo rm s ; tw o m o st c o n fe c tio n s
popular: s o ft/s p re a d a b le and solid

RAW P u rifie d sugarcane residue. Several Coarse gra in s are b e st su ite d fo r

v a rie tie s : D em erara (w h ite sugar d e c o ra tin g and as a sw e et a d d itive .
c ry s ta ls w ith th e added m olasses; F in e -te x tu re d grains used as
coarse grains), B arb a d o s/m u sco va d o s u b s titu te f o r lig h t brow n sugar
(m oist, dark, fin e -te x tu re grains),
tu rb in a d o (steam -clea ned , lig h t brown,
coarse grains)

SUGARCANE Source o f sugar; m em ber o f th e grass As snack, garnish

fa m ily. M ade ed ib le by bo iling . A vaila ble
in sta lks. Less sw e e t tha n g ra n u la te d
sugar

c h a p te r 10 » DRY GOODS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 229

 Sweeteners, continued
TYPE DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

syrup

CORN L iq u e fie d sugar c re a te d by pro cessing In baked goods, p a stry, co n fe ctio n s,

co rn sta rch . Three v a rie tie s : lig h t spreads
(c la rifie d to rem ove color), dark (co lo r
added, caram el fla v o r), and high
fru c to s e . Less sw e e t than g ra n u la te d
sugar; th e d a rke r th e syrup, the
m ore in te nse th e fla v o r. In h ib its
c ry s ta lliz a tio n

FLAVORED Sugar o r o th e r syrup w ith added In baked goods, p a stry, savory dishes,
fla v o rin g . F lavo r v a rie tie s include fr u it, beverages
nut, spice, cho colate, caram el

HONEY Thick, sw e e t liq u id pro du ced by bees In baked goods, p a stry, savo ry dishes,
fro m flo w e r nectar. Pale ye llo w to beverages, spreads
da rk brow n. F lavor in te n s ifie s as co lo r
deepens. C ountless v a rie tie s . Named
acco rd in g to s p e c ific flo w e r. A vaila ble in
com b, ch u n k-style , liquid, w h ipp ed

MAPLE B oile d m aple tre e sap. G olden brown. As a cco m pa nim e nt to pancakes,
Unique fla v o r. A vaila ble in grades “ A" or w a ffle s , French to a s t. In baked
"B.” A is m ore re fin e d than B goods, p a stry, co n fe ctio n s, savory
dishes

MOLASSES L iq u id b y -p ro d u c t o f sugar re fin in g . A cco m p a n im e n t to pancakes,

Three v a rie tie s : lig h t ( f ir s t boil), dark w a ffle s , and French to a s t. In baked
(second boil), and b la c k s tra p (th ird boil, goods, p a stry, savo ry dishes
d a rk e s t and th ic k e s t). F lavo r and arom a
in te n s ifie s as co lo r deepens

230 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
 sweeteners
sweeteners, continued

PILONCILLO
S U G A R C A N E STICKS

PAL M S U G A R

c h a p te r 10 » DRY GOODS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 231

 fats and oils The uses for fats and oils in the
professional kitchen or bakeshop are innumerable. Fat
provides a rich flavor, silky mouthfeel and texture, and
pleasing aroma. It also performs a multitude of chemi­
cal functions such as tenderizing, leavening, aiding in
moisture retention, and creating flaky/crumbly textures.
Fats and oils act as insulators for food, transfer heat to
food, prevent sticking, emulsify or thicken sauces, and
create crisp textures when used for frying.
While they are similar in many ways, fat is solid at
room temperature, while oil is liquid. Oils are produced
by pressing a high-oil food, such as olives, nuts, corn, or
soybeans. The liquid is then filtered, clarified, or hydro­
genated to produce an oil or fat (shortening).
The smoke point of a fat or oil greatly determines
its appropriate use. For example, the higher the smoke
point, the better suited it is for frying because it can
withstand higher heat ranges.

Fats and Oils

TYPE DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

fats
BUTTER,W HOLE S olid f a t churned fro m m ilk; a m inim um o f
8 0 % m ilk fa t, 2 0 % w a te r and m ilk solids.
Q u a lity based on fla vo r, body, te x tu re , color,
and s a lt co n te n t. Grades: AA (fin e s t), A, B, C
C ooking, baking. In p a stry, sauces,
com pound b u tte rs (Sm oke p o in t
3 5 0 °F /1 7 7 °C )

BUTTER, P u rifie d b u tte rfa t. U n salte d b u tte r w ith m ilk In roux, w arm b u tte r sauces, Indian
C LA R IFIED / so lid s rem oved. Longer s h e lf life than b u tte r. cooking, savory dishes
DRAW N/GHEE High sm oke p o in t (Sm oke p o in t 4 8 5 °F /2 5 2 °C )

FRYING FATS L iq u id or m allea ble a t room te m p e ra tu re . Deep fry in g

Blended o ils or sho rte n in g s; based on (Sm oke p o in t varies)
pro cesse d corn or pe anut oils. High sm oke
p o in t; long f r y life

LARD S olid. R endered p o rk fa t. M ild fla v o r if F rying, baking, p a s try

processed. High in s a tu ra te d fa t. M o d e ra te (Sm oke p o in t 3 7 0 °F /1 8 8 °C )
sm oke p o in t

SHORTENING S olid. M ade fro m v e g e ta b le oils, may con tain Deep fry in g , baking
anim al fa ts ; liq u id o il ch e m ica lly tra n s fo rm e d (Sm oke p o in t 3 6 0 °F /1 8 2 °C )
th ro u g h h yd rog ena tion . F lavorless. Low
sm oke p o in t

oils

CANOLA/RAPESEED Ligh t. E x tra c te d fro m rapeseeds; s im ila r C ooking. In salad dressings

to s a fflo w e r oil. G old en -colo red . Low in (Sm oke p o in t 4 0 0 °F /2 0 4 °C )
s a tu ra te d fa t. N e u tra l fla v o r. F a irly high to
very high sm oke p o in t

COCONUT Heavy. E x tra c te d fro m d rie d coco nu t m eat. In co m m e rcia l packaged goods,
N e arly co lo rle ss. N e u tra l fla v o r when blended oils, sh o rte n in g s
d e od orize d. High in s a tu ra te d fa t. High sm oke (Sm oke p o in t 3 5 0 °F /1 7 7 °C )
p o in t

CORN R e fine d oil. M edium ye llo w color. O dorless; Deep fry in g . In com m e rcial salad
m ild fla v o r. High sm oke p o in t d ressings, m argarine
(Sm oke p o in t 4 5 0 °F /2 3 2 °C )

232 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN

| TYPE DESCRIPTION COMMON CULINARY USES

COTTONSEED Fleavy. E x tra c te d fro m c o tto n p la n t seeds. C om bined w ith o th e r oils to produce
Very lig h t to pale yellow . N e u tra l fla vo r. ve g e ta b le and coo kin g oils, salad
M o d e ra te ly high sm oke p o in t dressings, m argarine, com m e rcial
p ro d u c ts
(Sm oke p o in t 4 2 0 °F /2 1 6 °C )

GRAPESEED Lig h t. Pale color. N e u tra l fla v o r. High sm oke S auteing, fry in g . In salad dressings
p o in t (Sm oke p o in t 4 8 5 °F /2 5 2 °C )

OLIVE Varies in viscosity. Pale yellow to deep green
(depending on typ e o f olive and processing).
Q uality based on a cid ity level, the fin e s t being
e xtra-virgin. Two d is tin c t classes: virgin and
blended. The fla v o r o f olive oil varies g re a tly
depending on region: can range fro m m ild to
herbaceous to grassy to peppery. Low to high
smoke point
Comm on to M e d ite rra n e a n cuisines.
Low - to h ig h -h e a t cooking, depending
on ty p e o f processing. In m arinades,
salad dressings
(Sm oke p o in t 3 7 5 ° -4 6 5 ° F /1 9 1 0-
24 1°C )

OIL SPRAYS L ig h t v e g e ta b le oils. Blended. Packaged in L ig h t co a tin g f o r pans and g rid d le s

pum p o r ae roso l sprays. V a rie tie s include
ve g e ta b le , o live oil, and b u tte r-fla v o re d

PEANUT Ligh t. R efined. Clear to pale yellow . S u b tle Deep fry in g , s tir-fry in g . In
s c e n t/fla v o r; le s s -re fin e d v a rie tie s have com m e rcia l salad dressings,
s tro n g e r s c e n t/fla v o r. High sm oke p o in t m argarine, s h o rte n in g
(Sm oke p o in t 4 5 0 °F /2 3 2 °C )

SAFFLOW ER L ig h t. R efined. E x tra c te d fro m s a fflo w e r Deep fry in g . In salad dressings

seeds. C olorless. F lavorless. Very high sm oke (Sm oke p o in t 5 1 0 °F /2 6 6 °C )
p o in t

SALAD Blended v e g e ta b le oils. S u b tle fla v o r In salad dressings, m ayonnaise

(Sm oke p o in t varies)

SESAME Two typ e s: one is lig h t and m ild w ith n u tty Frying, sauteing. In salad dressings,
fla v o r, th e o th e r is da rk w ith s tro n g e r fla v o r fla v o r a d d itiv e
and arom a. E x tra c te d fro m sesam e seeds. (Sm oke p o in t 3 5 0 ° -4 1 0 ° F /
Low to m o d e ra te sm oke p o in t, de pe nd ing on 1 7 7 °-2 1 0 °C )
ty p e

SOYBEAN Heavy. L ig h t yellow . Pronounced fla v o r and Com m on to Chinese cuisine. S tir-
arom a. High sm oke p o in t fry in g . In com m e rcial m argarine,
s h o rte n in g
(Sm oke p o in t 4 5 0 °F /2 3 2 °C )

SUNFLOW ER L ig h t. E x tra c te d fro m s u n flo w e r seeds. Pale A ll-p u rp o s e cooking. In salad

yellow . S u b tle fla v o r. Low in s a tu ra te d fa t. dressings
M e d iu m -lo w sm oke p o in t (Sm oke p o in t 4 4 0 °F /2 2 7 °C )

VEGETABLE L ig h t re fin e d blended ve g e ta b le oils. M ild A ll-p u rp o s e cooking, deep fry in g ,

fla v o r and arom a. High sm oke p o in t baking
(Sm oke p o in t varies)

W ALNUT Lig h t. U n re fin e d . Pale to m edium yellow . F lavo r a d d itiv e in salad dressings,
D e lica te n u tty fla v o r and arom a. H ighly m ea t dishes, pasta, de sserts. B est
pe rish able; re frig e ra te to p re v e n t ra n c id ity used uncooked
(Sm oke p o in t 3 2 0 °F /1 6 0 °C )

c h a p te r i o » DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
 miscellaneous dry goods
CHOCOLATE EXTRACTS

C hocolate is produced fro m cocoa beans, which gro w in The ch e f uses a v a rie ty o f fla v o rin g e x tra c ts f o r coo k­
a pod on th e cacao tre e . For th e an cie nt A ztecs, cocoa ing and baking. Herbs, spices, nuts, and fr u its are used
beans served n o t only to produce d rin ks and as a com ­ to pre pa re e xtra c ts , w hich are alcohol based. Common
po nent o f various sauces, b u t also as currency. Today, fla v o rs include vanilla, lemon, m int, and alm ond. E xtra cts
cho colate is usually fo u n d in a v a rie ty o f sw eets, in clu d ­ can lose th e ir p o te n cy if th e y are allow ed to come in
ing cakes, candies, and o th e r de sserts, although it is also c o n ta c t w ith air, heat, o r light. To preserve flavo r, s to re
used in savory e n tre e s such as m ole poblano, a tu rk e y e x tra c ts in tig h tly capped dark ja rs or b o ttle s away fro m
dish o f M exican origin. heat or d ire c t light.
The cho colate e x tra c tio n process is le ng th y and has
undergone a g re a t deal o f re fin e m e n t since th e days o f LEAVENERS
the A ztecs. The f ir s t stage involves crushing the kernels
Leaveners are used to give fo o d s a light, airy te x tu re .
in to a paste; a t th is p o in t it is c o m p le te ly unsw eetened
Chem ical leaveners, such as baking soda (sodium b ic a r­
and is called ch o co la te liquor. The liq u o r is then fu rth e r
bonate) and baking pow der (a com b in a tio n o f baking
ground to give it a sm oother, fin e r te x tu re , and s w e e te n ­
soda, cream o f ta rta r, and corn sta rch), w o rk rapidly.
ers and o th e r in g re d ie n ts m ay be added. The liq u o r may
Baking p ow der is usually double acting, w hich means
be pressed, causing cocoa b u tte r to be fo rc e d out. The
th a t one re a ctio n happens in th e presence o f m oistu re,
cocoa solids th a t are le ft are ground in to cocoa powder.
when liquids are added to dry in g re d ie n ts, and a second
Cocoa b u tte r may be com bined w ith cho colate liq u o r to
occurs in th e presence o f heat, as th e ite m bakes in the
make e a tin g chocolate, o r it may be fla v o re d and s w e e t­
oven.
ened to make w h ite chocolate. Cocoa b u tte r also has
Yeast leavens fo o d s by th e process o f fe rm e n ta tio n ,
num erous p h arm a ceutica l and co sm e tic uses.
which produces alcohol and carbon dioxide. The gas is
C hocolate should be sto re d , w e ll w rapped, in a cool,
tra p p e d by th e dough, c re a tin g a num ber o f sm all p o ck­
dry, v e n tila te d area. U nder m o st co n d itio n s, it should
ets, and th e alcohol burns o f f durin g baking.
n o t be re frig e ra te d , since th is could cause m o istu re to
Chem ical leaveners should be ke p t p e rfe c tly dry.
condense on th e surface. S om e tim es s to re d cho colate
D ried yea st can be held fo r exte nde d periods, b u t fresh
develops a w h ite "b loo m '’; th e bloom m ere ly in dica tes
ye a st has a s h o rt s h e lf life ; it w ill la st only a fe w weeks
th a t som e o f th e cocoa b u tte r has m e lte d and then re ­
under re frig e ra tio n .
c ry s ta lliz e d on th e surface. C hocolate w ith a bloom can
s till be used safely. Cocoa pow der should be s to re d in
THICKENERS
tig h tly sealed con tain ers in a d ry place. It w ill keep a l­
m o st in d e fin ite ly . T hickeners are used to give liquid a ce rta in am ount o f
v isco sity. The process o f fo rm in g an em ulsion is one way
VINEGARS AND CONDIMENTS to th icke n a liquid, as is th e process o f red uctio n. In ad­
d itio n , various th ic k e n in g in g re d ie n ts can be used. These
V inegars and m o st con dim ents are used to in tro d u ce
include a rro w ro o t, corn sta rch, file powder, and gelatin,
sharp, piquant, sw eet, or h o t fla v o rs in to fo o d s. They
to name a few.
may be used as an in g re d ie n t o r served on th e side, to
be added acco rding to a guest's ta s te . A w e ll-s to c k e d
kitche n should include a fu ll range o f vinegars, m ustards,
relishes, pickles, olives, jam s, and o th e r condim ents. In
general, vinegars and con dim ents should be s to re d in
the same m anner as oils and shortenings.

234 T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN


COFFEE, TEA, AND OTHER BEVERAGES
A good cup o f c o ffe e o r te a is o fte n th e key to a re s­
tau ra nt's re p u ta tio n . The ch e f should id e n tify brands
and blends th a t b e s t serve th e e sta b lish m e n t's sp e c ific
needs. W hereas som e o p e ra tio n s p re fe r to se le ct whole
c o ffe e beans, o th e rs m ay be b e tte r served by buying
preground, p o rtio n e d , vacuum -packed co ffe e . M any
re s ta u ra n ts serve brew ed d e c a ffe in a te d co ffe e , and
som e o ffe r espresso and cappuccino, b o th reg ular and
d e ca ffe in a te d .
Teas com e in m any v a rie tie s , includ in g black tea,
green tea, and herbal teas. M o s t are blends and are
available in sin g le -se rvin g bags or in loose fo rm .
A lth o u g h c o ffe e and te a g e n e ra lly keep welt, the y
w ill lose a lo t o f fla v o r i f s to re d to o long o r under im ­
p ro p e r c o n d itio n s. W hole beans o r opened co n ta in e rs o f
ground c o ffe e should be placed in an a irtig h t co n ta in e r
and used as soon as po ssib le to keep fla v o r and nuances
a t th e ir peak; te a s should be sto re d in cool, dry areas,
away fro m lig h t and m oistu re.
Prepared m ixes (pow dered f r u it d rin ks o r cocoa
mixes, f o r exam ple) also should be k e p t m o is tu re -fre e .
Frozen ju ice s and o th e r beverages should rem ain s o lid ly
fro ze n u n til needed. Canned ju ice s should be ke p t in dry
storage. R em em ber to ro ta te stock, and check all cans,
boxes, and o th e r co n ta in e rs f o r leaks, bulges, rust, or
mold.
miscellaneous dry good
W INES, CORDIALS, AND LIQUEURS
A general rule o f th u m b f o r s e le c tin g wines, cordials, and
lique urs f o r use in co o kin g and baking is: If it is n o t s u it­
able f o r drinkin g, it is n o t su ita b le fo r cooking.
Brandies and cognacs, Champagne, d ry red and
w h ite wines, p o rt, Sauternes, sherry, s to u ts , ales, beers,
and sw e e t and d ry v e rm o u th are com m only used in the
kitch e n . For baking purposes, th e ch e f should keep
on hand bourbon, crem e de cassis, f r u it brandies, gin,
Kahlua, rum , and scotch. Purchase w ines and cordials
th a t are a ffo rd a b ly p riced and o f good q u a lity. Table
w ines (Burgundies, Chablis, and Chardonnays, fo r ex­
am ple) lose th e ir fla v o r and becom e acidic once opened,
e sp e cia lly when s u b je cte d to heat, lig h t, and air. To
pre serve fla vo r, keep th e m in closed b o ttle s or b o ttle s
f it t e d w ith po u rin g spouts, and re frig e ra te when not
needed. F o rtifie d w ines (M adeiras, sherries, and po rts,
f o r exam ple) are m ore sta b le than ta b le wines and can
be held in d ry storag e. The same also applies to cordials,
cognacs, and liqueurs.
Chapter 10 » DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N 235
;auces, and soups
PART 3
 1

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Good cooking is the result ofjggrefully developing the best possible

flavor and most perfect texture in each dish. Basic flavoring and aromatic
combinations constitute the flavor base; thickeners contribute a rich,
smooth mouthfeel; end liaisons lend body to stocks, sauces, and soups.
 B oU Q. UE T GARNI, S A C H E T D'EPICES, A N D OIGNON B R U L E A R E T H R E E BASIC AR OM A TI C P R EP AR AT IO NS

C A L L E D F O R A G A I N A N D A G A I N IN R E C I P E S . T H E S E C O M B I N A T I O N S O F A R O M A T I C V E G E T A B L E S , H E R B S ,

A N D S P I C E S A R E M E A N T TO E N H A N C E A N D S U P P O R T T H E F L A V O R S O F A D I S H . T H E Y A D D F L A V O R TO

S T O C K S , S A U C E S , A N D S O U P S B Y G E N T L Y I N F U S I N G T H E LI Q. UI D W I T H T H E I R A R O M A .

bouquets, sachets
and oignon brule
A ll th re e o f the se a ro m a tic p re p a ra tio n s are added durin g the cooking process. Bouquets
and sachets are ty p ic a lly tie d to g e th e r fo r easy rem oval durin g cooking, a fte r th e desired
am ount o f fla v o r has been e xtra cte d , even b e fo re all o f th e o th e r in g re d ie n ts in a dish are
fin ish e d cooking.
A bo uq ue t garni is made up o f fre s h herbs and veg etab le s tie d in to a bundle. If leek is
used to w rap the o th e r bouq ue t garni ingre die nts, it m ust be th o ro u g h ly rinsed o f d ir t firs t.
Cut a piece o f s trin g long enough to leave a ta il to tie th e bouq ue t to th e p o t handle. This
makes it easy to pull o u t th e bouquet when it is tim e to rem ove it.
A sachet contains in g re d ie n ts such as peppercorns, o th e r spices, and herbs. The sea­
sonings are o fte n tie d up in a cheesecloth bag f o r recipes th a t are n o t stra in e d a fte r c oo k­
ing. A "loose" sachet, f o r w hich th e sachet in g re d ie n ts are added d ire c tly to a recipe w ith ­
o u t f ir s t being tie d , may be used when th e liquid w ill be stra in e d a fte r the dish has fin ish e d
cooking. A stan dard bouq ue t o r sachet can be m o d ifie d a little (add some c a rro t or a g a rlic
clove) o r a lo t (use cardam om , ginger, o r cinnam on) to produce d iffe re n t e ffe c ts . A sachet
in fu ses a liquid w ith flavo r, in the same w ay th a t a tea bag is used to make a cup o f tea.
For a sm all batch o f less than a gallon, add the sachet o r bouq ue t in the la st fifte e n to
th ir ty m inutes. For batches o f several gallons or m ore, add it ab ou t one hour b e fo re the
end o f th e cooking tim e . C onsult s p e c ific recipes and fo rm u la s fo r guidance. When you add
a bouquet or sachet to a s to ck or soup, ta s te the dish b e fo re and a fte r adding it to learn its
e ffe c t on th e dish's fla v o r p ro file . If the a ro m a tics have been com bined fo llo w in g a basic
fo rm u la and sim m ered long enough to infuse the dish w ith th e ir aroma, th e dish should be
fla v o re d — b u t n o t ove rw h elm e d— by them .
Oignon brule ("b urnt onion") and oignon pique ("pricked" or "stud de d onion") are fla v o r­
ing in g re d ie n ts based on whole, halved, o r q u a rte re d onions. An oignon brule is made by
peeling and halving an onion and cha rring th e cu t faces in a dry s k ille t. It is used in some
stocks and consom m es to provide golden brow n color. An oignon pique is prepared by s tu d ­
ding an onion w ith a fe w w hole cloves and a bay leaf. It is used to fla v o r becham el sauce and
some soups.

240 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D S O U P S

 bouquets, sachets, and oignon brule
BOUQUET GARNI AND SACHET D’ EPICES
/

Standard Bouquet Garni Standard Sachet d'Epices

(1 bouquet, to flavor 1 gal/3.84 L of liquid) (1 sachet, to flavor 1 gal/3.84 L of liquid)

1 sprig thyme 3 or 4 parsley stems

3 or 4 parsley stems 1 sprig thyme or 1 ts p /2 g dried

1 bay leaf 1 bay leaf

2 or 3 leek leaves and/or 1 celery 1 ts p /2 g cracked peppercorns

stalk, cut in half lengthwise
1 garlic clove (optional)
1 carrot, cut in half lengthwise (optional)

1 parsnip, cut in half lengthwise (optional)

1B»

Ingredients fo r a standard bouquet garni The finished bouquet garni

Ingredients fo r a standard sachet d’epices The finished sachet d'epices

ch a p te r 11 » M IS E EN PL A C E FOR STOCKS , SA UCES , A N D SO UPS 241

 M ir e p o ix is th e F rench n a m e fo r a c o m b in a t io n of o n io n s , c a r r o t s , a n d c e l e r y , b u t it is

NO T T H E O N L Y S U C H C O M B IN A T IO N , E V E N W IT H I N T H E F R E N C H C U L I N A R Y R E P E R T O IR E . M l R E P O I X A N D

S I M I L A R A R O M A T I C V E G E T A B L E C O M B I N A T I O N S A R E I N T E N D E D TO P R O V I D E A S U B T L E B U T P L E A S I N G

BA CK G R O U N D FLA VO R , S U P P O R T IN G A N D IM P R O V IN G T H E FL A V O R OF TH E F IN IS H E D D ISH .

mirepoix
Onions, ca rro ts, celery (both pascal and celeriac), leeks, parsnips, garlic, to m a to e s, shal­
lots, m ushroom s, peppers, and ging er are am ong th e in g re d ie n ts com m only re fe rre d to as
arom atics. They may be used in various com binations, as d ic ta te d by th e cuisine and the
dish its e lf. Even when used in re la tiv e ly sm all am ounts, a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts make a sig­
n ific a n t c o n trib u tio n to a dish. For example, 1 lb /4 5 4 g o f m ire p o ix is enough to fla v o r 1
g a l/3 .8 4 L o f s tock, soup, sauce, stew, braise, o r m arinade.
To g e t the b e st fla v o r fro m m ire p o ix and s im ila r pre pa ration s, th o ro u g h ly rinse and
trim all th e veg etab le s f ir s t. Onion skin w ill give a sim m e ring liquid an orange o r ye llo w tin t,
which may not be desirable, so de te rm in e w h e th e r to peel onions. Scrubbing, b u t n o t pe e l­
ing, c a rro ts and parsnips can cu t down on the prep tim e. N evertheless, some chefs peel all
vegetables on the prem ise th a t fla v o r is e xtra cte d in to th e dish m ore easily; oth ers peel
the m only when th e y are not strain ed o u t o f the fin is h e d dish.
W heth er or n o t th e vegetables are peeled, cut them in to pieces o f a re la tiv e ly un ifo rm
size, w ith th e dim ensions m atched to th e cooking tim e o f th e dish. The s h o rte r the sim -
m ering tim e , th e sm aller and th in n e r the cut; th e longer
the tim e , th e larger and th ic k e r th e cut. Make larger cuts
fo r lo ng -sim m erin g dishes such as p o t ro a sts or brown veal
stock. Cut m ire p o ix sm all or slice it f o r use in uncooked
marinades, pan gravies, and dishes th a t sim m er up to th re e
hours. Slice m ire p o ix ve ry fin e f o r fu m e ts and stocks th a t
sim m er less than one hour.
M ire p o ix w ill add a d is tin c t arom a to a dish, even
if the cut-up vegetables are sim p ly added to the p o t as
it sim m ers. Sweating, sm othe rin g, roa sting , or brow ning
the m in fa t s ig n ific a n tly changes th e ir flavo r. S ta rt by coo k­
ing onions in ju s t enough fa t to coa t th e b o tto m o f the pan
and vegetables, then add th e ca rro ts, and fin a lly the celery.
W hite stocks o r cream soups ge ne rally call fo r cooking the
m ire p o ix over low heat in f a t u n til it s ta rts to give o f f some
o f its own natural m oistu re, known as sweating. If th e p o t is
covered as th e a ro m a tics sweat, th e tech niq ue is sm o th e r­
ing. Pingage is a tech niq ue derived fro m th e French pincer,
"to s tiffe n or pinch”; th is te rm describes w h at happens to
the to m a to e s as th e y cook in h o t fa t. For pingage, to m a to
STANDARD MIR EPOIX WHITE MIR EPOIX paste or o th e r to m a to p ro d u c t is added to the already
brow ned m ire p o ix and cooked u n til it tu rn s reddish brown.

242 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S

 m irepoix
B basic formula
Standard Mirepoix Asian Aromatics Matignon
(1 lb /4 5 4 g) (1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g) (1 3 o z /3 6 9 g )

8 oz/227 g onion 8 oz/227 g garlic 3 oz/85 g ham

4 oz/113 g carrot 8 oz/227 g ginger 4 oz/113 g onion

4 oz/113 g celery 4 oz/113 g green onion 4 oz/113 g carrot

Note: The ratio is two parts onion to Note: The ra tio is two parts 2 oz/57 g celery
one p a rt celery to one p a rt carrot. ginger to two parts garlic
to one p a rt green onion. 1 sprig thyme

White Mirepoix 1 bay leaf

(1 lb /4 5 4 g) Cajun Trinity
(1 lb /4 5 4 g)
4 oz/113 g onion
8 oz/227 g onion
4 oz/113 g celery or celeriac
4 oz/113 g celery
4 oz/113 g parsnip
4 oz/113 g bell pepper
4 oz/113 g leek
Note: The ratio is two parts
Note: The ratio is equal parts onion to one p a rt celery to
onion, celery, parsnip, and leek. one p a rt bell pepper.

method
at-a-glance
1. Brown the onions and
carrots. Standard mirepoix is used to flavor a variety of stocks and soups.
Tomato paste or puree is often added to the mirepoix for brown stock, gravy,
2 . Add the celery and cook
stew, or soup for added flavor and color.
until soft.

3. For pin<;age, add tom ato White mirepoix is used to flavor white stocks and soups that should
paste and brown. have a mild flavor and/or pale ivory or white color.

Asian aromatics are used in many Asian stir-fries, soups, and

sauces. Cook the aromatics until they are just fragrant as they burn easily.

Cajun tr in ity is used in many Louisiana Creole and Cajun dishes such as
gumbo. Its usage varies widely by region and according to traditional recipes.

Matignon is sometimes called edible mirepoix, and is used to garnish

a dish as well as to flavor it. It typically includes onions, carrots, celery, and
ham cut into very neat dice. Mushrooms and assorted herbs and spices may
be added as desired. Render the ham before adding remaining aromatics and
cook until softened. Use according to recipe.

c h a p te r 11 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR STOCKS , SA UCES , A N D SO UPS 243

 1. brown the onions and ca rro ts, then
add the celery. M ire p o ix can cook u n til it tu rn s a deep rich
brow n (so m e tim e s re fe rre d to as caram elized), e ith e r on
th e range or in th e oven. S ta rt by cooking onions in ju s t
enough f a t to co a t th e b o tto m o f th e pan and vegetables,
the n add th e c a rro ts , and fin a lly th e celery.

2. add tomato paste ( if using) once the

m ire p o ix in g re d ie n ts are p a rtly cooked, a fte r the celery
s o fte n s and c o lo r deepens. Tom ato pa ste or puree is o f­
te n added to th e m ire p o ix fo r brow n stock, gravy, stew, or
soup f o r added fla v o r and color.

244 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UPS

 m irepoix
3. cook carefully u n til deeply brow ned to
co m p le te pingage: cook th e to m a to pa ste u n til it tu rn s
ru s ty brow n and has a sw e et aroma.

c h a p te r n » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SOUP S 245

 R oux TH IC KE NS S AUCE S, SOUPS, AND STEWS, AND LEND S THO SE DISHES A S PEC IAL FLAVOR. COOKING

F L O U R IN F A T I N A C T I V A T E S A N E N Z Y M E T HA T , IF N O T D E S T R O Y E D B Y H I G H H E A T , I N T E R F E R E S W I T H F L O U R ’S

T H I C K E N I N G A B I L I T Y . C O O K I N G F L O U R A L S O C H A N G E S T H E F L O U R ' S R A W C E R E A L T A S T E TO A T O A S T Y O R

N U T T Y FLAVOR. BO TH THE F LA V O R A ND THE COLOR B EC O M E D E EP E R THE L O N G ER THE RO U X COOKS.

roux
In a d d itio n to im p ro vin g raw flo u r's fla v o r and color, cooking flo u r in fa t helps to keep the
starch in the flo u r fro m fo rm in g long strand s o r clum ps when th e roux is com bined w ith
a liquid. However, keep in m ind th a t th e same w e ig h t o f w h ite roux has m ore thicke ning
pow er than a d a rker roux, because the brow ning process causes some o f th e starch in the
flo u r to break down, m aking it unavailable fo r thickening. T here fore, th e da rker the roux,
the less th icke n in g pow er it has.
A ltho ug h o th e r th icke n e rs are gra du ally sup plantin g roux in th e Am erican kitche n fo r
various reasons (including the longer cooking tim e req uire d to rem ove any ta s te o f raw
flo u r and because it creates a heavier sauce), it is s till used extensively, perhaps because
o f its European culinary h e ritag e and its several d is tin c t advantages. In a d d itio n to th ic k ­
ening a dish, roux w ill change th e co lo r o f a sauce and, if a dark roux is used, lend it a n u tty
or to a s te d flavo r. For exam ple, dark roux is p a rtic u la rly im p o rta n t in Creole and Cajun cui­
sines, w here it gives gum bos and stew s th e ir unique character. A n o th e r advantage o f using
roux is th a t th e starches p re se n t in th e flo u r do not break down as easily as some others,
cre a tin g a m ore sta b le sauce.
Roux can be prepared w ith any ty p e o f w h ite w h ea t flo u r; however, th e m ost desirable
is all-pu rpo se flo u r due to its sta rch con tent. Flours va ry in th e ir s ta rc h -to -p ro te in ratio.
Cake flo u r, fo r instance, has a higher p ro p o rtio n o f sta rch to p ro te in than bread flo u r and
w ill, th e re fo re , have m ore th icke n in g pow er than a bread flo u r roux. A ll-p u rp o se flo u r has
a th icke n in g pow er betw een th e tw o. Roux called fo r in th is book was te s te d using a ll-p u r­
pose flou r.
C la rifie d b u tte r is the m o st com m on fa t used fo r m aking roux, b u t w hole b u tte r, veg­
eta b le oils, rendered chicken fa t, or o th e r rendered fa ts may also be used. Each fa t w ill
influence th e fin is h e d dish's flavo r.
Heat th e fa t over m edium heat and add the flo u r, s tirrin g to com bine. The basic fo rm u la
f o r a roux is 60 pe rce n t flo u r to 40 pe rcen t fa t (by w eight). The roux should be v e ry sm ooth
and m oist, w ith a glossy sheen— n o t dry o r greasy. It should look like "sand a t low tide.” A d­
ju s t the roux's te x tu re by adding m ore flo u r or fa t. S tir th e roux as it cooks to keep it fro m

WHITE ROU X BLOND BROWN DARK

246 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UPS

 roux
scorching, and con tinu e to cook it to th e de sire d color. To reduce th e chances o f scorching,
large q u a n titie s o f roux may be placed in a m od era te oven (35 0° to 3 7 5 °F /1 7 7 ° to 191°C)
to com p le te cooking.
The fo u r basic colors o f roux are w h ite (barely colored o r chalky), blond (golden stra w
c o lo r w ith a s lig h tly n u tty aroma), brown (deep brow n w ith a s tro n g n u tty aroma), and dark
(dark brow n w ith a pronounced n u tty fla v o r and aroma). Once the roux is cooked to its de­
sired doneness, it is ready to use, o r it may be cooled and sto re d fo r later.
Roux can be com bined w ith liquid in th re e ways. Cool roux may be added to h o t liquid,
cool liquid may be added to h o t roux, o r w arm roux may be added to liquid o f th e same
te m p e ra tu re . For any approach, though, fo llo w the se general guidelines:

» Avoid temperature extremes to prevent lumping.

» Cool or room temperature roux can be incorporated into hot liquid more easily than ice-
cold roux because the fat is not as solid.

» Very cold liquid should not be used, as it will initially cause the roux to harden.

» Extremely hot roux should be avoided, because it may spatter when combined with a
liquid and cause serious burns.

The fu ll th icke n in g actio n o f th e roux becom es e vid e n t when th e liquid has reached ap­
p ro x im a te ly 2 0 0°F /93°C . Long-cooking sauces and soups are fu rth e r thicke ne d through
red uctio n.

PURE STARCH SLU RR IE S

A rro w ro o t, corn sta rch, and o th e r pure starche s have g re a te r th icke n in g power, ounce fo r
ounce, than flo u r and do n o t req uire an extended sim m e ring tim e like roux. They also lend
much less co lo r o r none a t all to a fin a l dish. However, keep in m ind th a t th e y break down
m ore qu ickly over tim e than does roux.
A rro w ro o t, corn sta rch, tap ioca , p o ta to starch, and rice flo u r are all pure starches. They
are made in to slu rrie s by d isp e rsin g them in cold liquid. T horoughly blend the sta rch and
liquid to ab ou t the con sisten cy o f heavy cream. S lu rries can be blended in advance and
held to use du rin g a la m in ute pre pa ration s. If n o t used im m e dia te ly, th e sta rch w ill s e ttle
o u t o f th e liquid and fa ll to th e b o tto m o f th e container. S tir th e s lu rry ju s t b e fo re use to
recom bine the starch evenly w ith th e liquid.
Pour or ladle th e s lu rry in to sim m e ring liquid w h ile s tirrin g c o n sta n tly. When added in
th is way, slu rrie s qu ickly th icke n the liquid, m aking it easy f o r th e ch e f to c o n tro l th e fin a l
con sisten cy o f th e dish. W hisk co n s ta n tly to pre ve n t lum ping and scorching. B ring the liq ­
uid back to a boil and cook ju s t u n til th e sauce reaches th e desired th ickn e ss and c la rity.
Dishes thicke ne d w ith slu rrie s have lim ite d holding periods. Be sure to check p e rio d i­
cally f o r q u a lity if th e y m ust be held in a steam tab le. Various starche s have som ew hat
d iffe re n t q u a litie s b u t may be s u b s titu te d one fo r th e other, fo llo w in g th e fo rm u la on the
next page.

Chapter n » M IS E EN P L A C E FOR STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UPS 247

 Q to substitute a pure starch for roux
BASIC EQUATION EXAMPLE:
To substitute arrowroot in a recipe that calls for 10
Weight of flour in roux [multiply weight o f roux
oz/284 g of roux:
by 0.6 to determine weight of flour] x Thickening
power of replacem ent starch [see below] = Esti- 10 o z /2 8 4 g roux x 0.6 = 6 o z /1 7 0 g flour
m ated weight of replacem ent starch
required 6 o z /1 7 0 g flou r x 0.5
[arrowroot thickening power] = B o z /8 5 g
arrowroot

thickening
powers
Rice flour: 0.6 common thickening starches
Arrowroot: 0.5 and their characteristics
Cornstarch: 0.5

Tapioca/Cassava flo u r 0.4 RICE FLOUR

Translucent. Relatively weak thickening power. Freezes well. Fairly expensive.
Potato starch: 0.2
ARROWROOT
More translucent than cornstarch. Thickening power roughly equivalent to
cornstarch. Does not gel or weep when cooled.

CORNSTARCH
Translucent. Thickens when heated, but thickening power diminishes with ex­
cessive heating. Gels and weeps upon cooling.

TAPIOCA/CASSAVA FLOUR
Translucent. Thickening power slightly greater than cornstarch. Available from
Asian food purveyors. Moderately priced.

POTATO STARCH
Translucent. More thickening power than cornstarch. Moderately priced.

248 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S

 liaison
The m ixtu re of egg y o l k s a n d crea m THAT is u s e d TO enrich AND SLIGHTLY thicken s a u c e s and

S O U P S IS C A L L E D A L I A I S O N . A L I A I S O N IS N O T A T H I C K E N E R IN T H E S A M E W A Y T H A T R O U X A N D P U R E

S T A R C H S L U R R I E S A R E , B U T T H E C O M B I N A T I O N O F C R E A M A N D E G G S , W H E N P R O P E R L Y S I M M E R E D IN A

DISH, A D D S S H E E N , S M O O T H N E S S , B O D Y , A N D F L A V O R A S W E L L A S A L I G H T G O L D E N " ! V O R Y COL OR.

liaison
Egg yolks no rm ally begin to coagulate a t 149°F /65°C . The a d d itio n o f cream raises th e co­
agulation p o in t to 18 0° to 1 8 5 °F /8 2 ° to 85°C. M ix th e cream and egg yolks to g e th e r u n til
evenly blended. Add a p o rtio n o f th e h o t liquid to th e liaison to avoid a d ra stic heat change,
which could cause th e yolks to curdle. This process, known as te m p e rin g , reduces te m p e ra ­
tu re e xtre m e s so th e fin is h e d soup o r sauce rem ains sm ooth. G radually add ab o u t one-
th ird o f th e h o t liquid to th e liaison, a la d le fu l a t a tim e , w h iskin g c o n sta n tly. W hen enough
h o t liquid has been added, re tu rn th e te m p e re d liaison to th e soup o r sauce. Return th e p o t
to low heat and g e n tly w arm the m ixture , s tirrin g fre q u e n tly , u n til it th icke n s slig h tly. Do
n o t allow th e m ix tu re to go beyond 18 5 °F /8 5 °C or th e egg yolks m ig h t curdle.
For reasons o f q u a lity, add th e liaison as close to service tim e as possible. Hold soups
and sauces th icke n e d w ith a liaison above 1 4 0 °F /6 0 °C f o r fo o d s a fe ty reasons b u t below
1 8 5 °F /8 5 °C to m aintain qu ality.

basic formula (by weight)

Liaison
method (IOV 2 fl oz/315 mL, to thicken 24 fl

at-a-glance oz/720 mL liquid)

8 fI oz/240 mL cream
Blend the cream and egg
2Vi f I oz/75 mL egg yolk
yolks.
(about 3 large)
Temper the hot liquid into
Note: The ratio fo r liaison is three
the liaison.
ports cream to one p o rt egg yolk.
3. Combine the tem pered
liaison w ith the dish.

Warm, s tirrin g frequently,

until slightly thickened.

Chapter 11 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR STOCKS , SA UCES , A N D SO UPS 249

 1. begin with a hot soup, sauce, or
dish such as Veal B la n q u e tte (page 597). Blend the cream
and egg yolks to g e th e r u n til evenly com bined. Egg yolks
n o rm a lly begin to coa gu late a t 14 9 °F /6 5 °C . The ad d i­
tio n o f cream raises th e coa gu latio n p o in t to 180° to
1 8 5 °F /8 2 ° to 85°C. S lo w ly add some o f th e h o t liquid to
th e liaison to te m p e r it. A dd in g a p o rtio n o f th e h o t liquid
to th e liaiso n avoids a d ra s tic heat change, w hich could
cause th e yolks to curdle. This process, known as te m p e r­
ing, reduces te m p e ra tu re e xtre m e s so th e fin is h e d soup
or sauce rem ains sm ooth. G radually add ab ou t o n e -th ird
o f th e h o t liquid to th e liaison, a la d le fu l a t a tim e, w h is k ­
ing co n sta n tly.

2. add the tempered liaison back

to th e dish. W hen enough h o t liq u id has been added, re ­
tu rn th e te m p e re d liaison to th e soup or sauce. Return
th e p o t to low heat and g e n tly w arm the m ixture , s t ir ­
rin g fre q u e n tly , u n til s lig h tly thicke ne d. Do n o t allow the
te m p e ra tu re to go beyond 1 8 5 °F /8 5 °C or the egg yolks
m ig h t curdle. Add th e liaison as close to service tim e as
possible. Hold soups and sauces th icke n e d w ith a liaison
above 1 4 0 °F /6 0 °C f o r fo o d s a fe ty reasons, b u t below
1 8 5 °F /8 5 °C to m a intain q u a lity.

250 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S

 clarified butter
C la rifie d butter is m a d e b y h e a t i n g w h o l e butter u n til the b u tte rfa t and m ilk s o lid s

s e p a r a t e . W h e n w h o l e b u t t e r is c l a r i f i e d , s o m e o f i t s v o l u m e is l o s t d u r i n g s k i m m i n g a n d

D E C A N TIN G : 1 L b / 4 5 4 G OF BU TTE R W IL L Y IE L D A P P R O X IM A T E L Y 1 2 O z / 3 4 0 G OF C L A R IF IE D BUTTER.

U s i n g s a l t e d b u t t e r f o r c l a r i f y i n g is n o t r e c o m m e n d e d b e c a u s e t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f s a l t

in t h e r e s u l t i n g c l a r i f i e d b u t t e r is u n p r e d i c t a b l e . U n s a l t e d c l a r i f i e d b u t t e r c a n a l w a y s

be s a l t e d a s i t 's u s e d .

clarified butter
Q basic formula
Clarified Butter
(12 oz/340 g)

1 lb/454 g butter

method
at-a-glance
M e lt th e b u tte r.
expert tips
S kim o f f th e fo a m .

D e c a n t th e c la rifie d b u tte r.
The purpose o f clarifying b u tte r is to remove its milk
solids and water. This makes it possible to cook with butter at a higher tem­
perature than is possible with whole butter. Clarified butter is commonly used
to make roux. Because it adds some butter flavor, it is often used for sauteing,
sometimes in combination with vegetable oil. Some chefs also prefer it for warm
butter sauces such as hollandaise and bearnaise. Ghee, which is used in some
Asian cuisines, is a type of clarified butter. It has a nutty flavor because the milk
solids are allowed to brown before they are separated from the butterfat.

c h a p te r n » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UPS 251

 1. melt the butter and skim o f f the foam .
H eat th e b u tte r over low heat u n til fo a m rises to th e su r­
face and th e w a te r and m ilk solids drop to the b o tto m o f
th e pot. The rem a ining b u tte r fa t becom es very clear. Skim
th e surface fo a m as th e b u tte r c la rifie s using a ladle,
screen skim m er, o r p e rfo ra te d spoon.

2. decant the clarified butter. Pour

or ladle o f f th e b u tte r fa t in to a n othe r container, ca re fu lly
leaving all o f th e w a te r and m ilk solids in the pan b o tto m .
A f te r w hole b u tte r is c la rifie d , some o f its volum e is lo s t
due to skim m ing, decanting, and disca rd in g th e w a te r and
m ilk solids. One lb /4 5 4 g o f w hole b u tte r y ie ld s a p p ro x i­
m a te ly 12 o z /3 4 0 g o f c la rifie d b u tte r.

252 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S

stocks
Stocks are among the most basic preparations found in any professional
kitchen. In fact, they are referred to in French as fonds de cuisine, the
"foundations of cooking." A stock is a flavorful liquid prepared by simmering
meaty bones from meat or poultry, seafood, and/or vegetables in water
with aromatics until their flavor, aroma, color, body, and nutritive value
are extracted. The liquid is then used to prepare sauces, soups, and as a
braising and simmering cooking medium fo r vegetables and grains.
 W hite s t o c k s , bro w n st o c k s , and fu m et s a re the th ree basic t y p e s of st o ck .W hite st o cks

A R E M A D E B Y C O M B I N I N G A L L O F T H E I N G R E D I E N T S W I T H A C O O L LI Q. UI D ( T Y P I C A L L Y W A T E R ) A N D

S I M M E R I N G O V E R G E N T L E HEAT. B R O W N S T O C K S A R E M A D E B Y B R O W N I N G T H E B O N E S A N D M I R E P O I X

IN E N O U G H F A T TO P R O D U C E A R I C H M A H O G A N Y C O L O R , E I T H E R B Y R O A S T I N G IN T H E O V E N O R O N T H E

STOVETOP, B E F O R E S IMM ER IN G. F u M E T S ( S O M E T IM E S KN OW N A S E S S E N C E S ) C A L L FOR SWEATIN G

OR S M O T H E R I N G T H E M A I N I N G R E D I E N T S B E F O R E S I M M E R I N G , O F T E N W I TH T H E A DD IT I ON O F D R Y

W H I T E WI NE.

For good fla v o r and body, use m ea ty bones and fis h bones. They can be acquired as a by­
p ro d u ct o f m eat and fis h fa b ric a tio n or purchased solely fo r stock. Bones fro m younger
anim als contain a high percentage o f ca rtila g e and o th e r connective tissue s th a t break
down in to g e la tin du rin g sim m e ring and give the s to ck body. Knuckle, back, and neck bones
are good f o r s to ck as well. Include any w holesom e trim fro m fa b ric a tio n , if available, to
fu rth e r b o ls te r flavo r. Cut bones in to B -in /8 -cm lengths f o r q u icke r and m ore tho ro ug h ex­
tra c tio n o f flavo r, ge la tin, and n u tritiv e value. If bones are purchased frozen , th a w them
b e fo re sim m e ring fo r stock.
Rinse all bones, fre s h or frozen, th o ro u g h ly b e fo re p u ttin g the m in to the sto ckp o t, to
rem ove blood and o th e r im p u ritie s th a t can com prom ise th e q u a lity o f th e stock. For brown
stocks, prepare th e bones and trim by ro a stin g the m fir s t; fo r m ore in fo rm a tio n , see page
263. Trim and cut m ire p o ix to a size th a t w ill allow fo r good fla v o r e xtra ctio n . A 2 -in /5 -c m
rough cut or slice is good f o r a sim m e ring tim e o f one hour. Cut vegetables larger or sm aller
fo r longer o r s h o rte r sim m e ring tim e s. The m ire p o ix and to m a to paste called f o r in brown
stocks are roa ste d or sauteed u n til browned b e fo re the y are added to the stock.
S tocks also include a sachet d’epices or bo uq ue t garni co n ta in in g a ro m a tics su ite d to
th e typ e o f s to ck being made. Because th e s to ck w ill eve ntua lly be strain ed , some chefs
do n o t tie up sachet o r bouq ue t ingre die nts. However, ty in g makes it easy to rem ove the
a ro m a tics i f th e ir fla v o r becom es to o strong.
Pots used f o r stocks are usually ta lle r than th e y are wide. This ty p e o f p o t creates a
sm aller surface area so th e eva po ration ra te is m inim ized durin g sim m ering. Some sto ck-
p o ts have sp ig o ts a t th e b o tto m th a t can be used to rem ove th e fin is h e d sto c k w ith o u t
d is tu rb in g th e bones. C o urt bouillons, fu m e ts, and essences th a t do not have long s im m e r­
ing tim e s can be prepared in rondeaus or o th e r wide, shallow pots. T iltin g or stea m -jack-
ete d k e ttle s are o fte n used fo r large-scale pro du ction. Ladles o r skim m ers should be on
hand to rem ove scum fro m th e s to ck as it sim m ers. Cheesecloth, sieves, and colanders are
used to separate th e bones and veg etab le s fro m the stock. A th e rm o m e te r and m etal con­
ta in e rs f o r cooling, as w ell as p la s tic con tain ers fo r s to rin g the stock, should be on hand.
Tasting spoons w ill also be needed.

254 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S

 basic formula
Meat or Poultry Stock Fish Stock 10 oz/284 g mushrooms, sliced
(1 gal/3.84 L) (1 gal/3.84 L)
3 '/i qt/3.36 L water
8 lb/3.63 kg bones and trimmings 11 lb/4.99 kg nonoily fishbones
1 q t/9 6 0 mL white wine
5 to 6 qt/4.80 to 5.76 L cool liquid 1 lb/454 g White
Mirepoix (page 243) 1 Standard Sachet
1 lb/454 g Standard or White
d’Epices (page 241)
Mirepoix (page 243) 4</2 qt/4.32 L water
2 tbsp/20 g salt (optional)
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices or I Standard Sachet
Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241) d'Epices (page 241)
Vegetable Stock
(1 gal/3.84 L)
Fish Fumet
(1 gal/3.84 L) 5 lb/1.36 kg assorted
nonstarchy vegetables
I I lb/4.99 kg nonoily fish bones,
cut in 2-in/5-cm pieces 5 q t/4.80 L water

1 lb/454 g White Mirepoix 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices or

(page 243), sliced thin Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241)

method
at-a-glance
1. Combine the major
flavoring ingredient and
liquid.
The flavor o f the stock can be changed or deepened depend­
2. Bring to a simmer.
ing on the ingredients used. Certain stocks generally use basic mirepoix
3. Skim as necessary combinations (see page 243), but more ingredients can be added to produce
throughout cooking time. the desired flavor. This is also true of the standard bouquet garni and sachet
d'epices, whose ingredients can be expanded to produce deeper and more var­
4. Add the m irepoix
ied flavors. The flavor can also be affected by the use of fresh versus frozen
and aromatics at the
bones and trim.
appropriate point.

5. Simmer the stock until it For a healthier option: sto ck is an excellent way to infuse flavor
develops flavor, body, and into a dish without adding fat or excess calories. Use it to cook grains, veg­
color. etables, meats, sauces, or soups.

6. Strain.

7. Use im m ediately or cool

and store.

ch a p te r 12 » STOCKS
 Ingredients fo r w hite stock

Ingredients fo r brown veai stock

256 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S

 stocks
Ingredients fo r fish fu m e t

Ingredients fo r vegetable stock

ch a p te r 12 » ST OCKS 257
 1. combine the bones w ith cool liquid to
cover by tw o inches and b ring the m slo w ly to a sim m er in
an a p p ro p ria te size s to c k p o t. Skim as necessary. For the
b e st fla v o r and c le a re s t stock, s ta r t w ith a cool liquid
(w a te r o r rem o uilla ge; see page 2 6 1 ) to g e n tly e x tra c t
fla v o r and body. M a in ta in a bare sim m er th ro u g h o u t the
coo kin g process. Bubbles should break the surface o f the
s to ck in fre q u e n tly . The French use the verb fre m ir,
m eaning "to trem ble," to de scrib e th e a ctio n o f the
bubbles as th e s to c k cooks.

m eth o d in d etail
2. skim the liquid c o n s is te n tly to produce
a clear stock, and re g u la te the p ro p e r te m p e ra tu re . The
French verb d e p o u ille r, lite ra lly "to skin o r peel," is used
to de scrib e th e skim m in g process. A p a rt fro m the
ae s th e tic s o f a cle ar stock, th e im p u ritie s th a t leave a
sto c k cloudy are th e same elem e nts th a t w ill q u ickly spoil
and sour a stock. T h e re fo re , th e cle a re r th e stock, the
lo ng er its s h e lf life .

258 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S

 stocks
3. add the mirepoix to the s to ck a t the
a p p ro p ria te tim e to e x tra c t th e m axim um am ount o f f la ­
vor. The rig h t tim e to add m ire poix to all stocks except fish
stocks, fu m e ts, and c o u rt bouillons is about tw o hours be­
fo re the end o f cooking tim e. Adding m ire poix a t th is point
w ill allow enough tim e fo r th e be st fla v o r to be extracte d
bu t n o t so much tim e th a t the fla v o r is broken down and
destroyed. O th er arom atics, such as a sachet d'epices or
bouquet garni, should be added in the last 30 to 45 m inutes
o f cooking. Since fis h stocks, fum ets, essences, and court
bouillons do not have extended cooking tim es, the m irepoix
in gre die nts are no rm ally cut sm aller and added near the
beginning o f th e sim m e ring tim e, and they remain in the
sto ck th ro u g h o u t cooking.
NOTE FOR FISH STOCK: Combine the bones w ith the
cool w a te r and a ro m a tics and sim m er g e n tly fo r 3 5 to 45
m inutes. This is som etim es called the sw im m ing m ethod, to
disting uish i t fro m fu m e t made by the sw eating m ethod.
NOTE FOR FISH FUMET: S w e at the m ire poix and mush­
rooms, fo llo w e d by the fis h bones p rio r to adding the water.

4. add a sachet ab ou t 45 m inutes b e fo re the

s to c k has fin is h e d s im m e rin g to o b ta in th e m ost flavo r.
S im m er u n til th e de sire d fla vo r, aroma, body, and color
are achieved. Sm ell and ta s te th e s to c k as it develops so
th a t you can begin to u n de rsta nd its stages and notice
when it has reached its peak. Once th e s to ck reaches th a t
p o in t, fu rth e r coo kin g w ill cause fla v o rs to becom e fla t.
Even th e co lo r o f th e s to c k may be s lig h tly o f f if it sim ­
m ers to o long.

c h a p te r 12 » STOCKS 259
 5. strain the stock and use it im m e d ia te ly
or cool it p ro p e rly. Pour o r ladle th e s to ck o u t o f the p o t
th ro u g h a fin e -m e sh sieve or a colan der lined w ith rinsed
cheesecloth. D istu rb th e solid in g re d ie n ts as little as
po ssib le f o r th e cle a re s t sto ck. Once you have rem oved
as much s to c k as po ssib le by ladling, drain th e rem a in­
ing s to c k th ro u g h a colan der in to a bowl. Then s tra in the
sto ck th ro u g h che ese cloth o r a fin e -m e sh sieve to rem ove
any rem a ining im p u ritie s , if desired. Reserve th e bones
and m ire p o ix to pre pa re a rem ouillage, i f desired (see
page 261).

6. cool the stock over an ice bath, s tirrin g

fre q u e n tly , u n til it reaches 40 °F /4 °C , if n o t using im m e d i­
ate ly. Skim any fa t th a t rises to the surface or w a it un til
it has hardened under re frig e ra tio n and sim p ly li f t it away
b e fo re re h e a tin g th e sto c k fo r la te r use.
Evaluate th e q u a lity o f th e fin is h e d s to ck on th e basis
o f fo u r c rite ria : fla v o r, color, arom a, and c la rity . If th e c o r­
re c t ra tio o f bones, m ire p o ix, and a ro m a tics to liquid has
been used and th e c o rre c t pro ced ure has been follow e d,
th e fla v o r w ilt be w e ll balanced, rich, and fu ll-b o d ie d , w ith
th e m ajor fla v o rin g in g re d ie n t d o m in a tin g and th e fla v o rs
o f th e a ro m a tics un ob tru sive. The co lo r o f s to cks w ilt vary
by typ e . Q u a lity w h ite sto c k s are clear and lig h t to golden
when hot. Brown sto cks are a deep am ber or brow n due to
th e p re lim in a ry ro a s tin g o f th e bones and m ire poix. Veg­
e ta b le sto c k s va ry in co lo r acco rding to main in gre die nt.

260 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S

 stock guidelines
general guidelines for stocks
M aking stocks take s bo th tim e and money. If y ou r kitch e n prepares stocks, you should be
sure you fo llo w th e c o rre c t procedures fo r coo lin g and s to rin g them . S elect a s to ck to use
in a dish based upon e ith e r recipe req u ire m e n ts or th e e ffe c t you hope to achieve, and al­
ways check a s to ck b e fo re using it to make sure it is s till fla v o rfu l and w holesom e. Boil a
sm all am ount and ta s te it. The arom a should be appealing, n o t o ve rly pungent or sour.

REMOUILLAGE

T ranslated fro m th e French as "rew etting,'' rem o uilla ge is made by re se rvin g th e sim m ered
bones and m ire p o ix fro m a s to ck and sim m e ring th e m a second tim e . Rem ouillage may also
be made fro m the c la rific a tio n r a ft used to prepare Consomme. This secondary sto c k o f
w eaker s tre n g th can be used as th e liquid f o r s to cks and b ro th s o r as a cooking m edium, or
reduced to a glace.

GLACE

Glace is a highly reduced s to ck or rem ouillage. As a re s u lt o f con tinu ed red uctio n, the
s to c k acquires a je lly -lik e o r syrupy con sisten cy and its fla v o r is highly co n cen tra te d. When
chilled, a glace becom es ru b b e ry because o f th e high co n ce n tra tio n o f g e la tin. Glaces are
used to b o o st th e fla v o r o f o th e r foo ds, p a rtic u la rly sauces.
W hen th e y are re c o n s titu te d w ith w ater, th e y m ay also serve as a sauce base in much
th e same w ay as a com m e rcially prepared base. Glaces are made fro m d iffe re n t kinds o f
stock; th e m o st com m on is glace de viande, made fro m brow n veal stock, b e e f stock, or
rem ouillage.

COMMERCIAL BASES
N o t all kitche ns prepare stocks tod ay, e ith e r because m ea ty bones and trim are n o t rea d­
ily available on a co n s is te n t basis or because the y do n o t have the space o r m anpow er to
succe ssfully prepare and hold stocks. C om m ercially pre pa red bases are the n used in place
o f stocks. Even in kitche ns th a t do prepare stocks, bases are h e lp fu l to have on hand to
deepen and im prove the s to c k ’s flavo r.
Bases are available in highly reduced fo rm s (sim ila r to th e classic glace de viande) and
de hyd rated (pow dered or cubed). N o t all bases are crea te d equal, however. Read th e labels
ca re fu lly. Avoid bases th a t re ly on high-sodium in g re d ie n ts f o r fla vo r. Q ua lity bases are
made fro m m eats, bones, vegetables, spices, and aro m atics. Prepare th e m according to
th e package in s tru c tio n s and ta s te each one. Judge th e base on its flavo r, saltiness, ba l­
ance, and depth.
A fte r de cid ing th a t a base m eets your stan dard s f o r q u a lity and cost, learn how to
make any a d ju stm e n ts necessary. For exam ple, you m ig h t sw e at o r ro a s t m ore vegetables
and sim m er th e m in a d ilu te d base, perhaps along w ith brow ned trim , to make a rich brown
sauce.

c h a p te r 12 » STOCKS 261
 COOKING TIMES FOR STOCKS

The following cooking times are approximate; the times will vary according to numerous
factors such as ingredient quality, total volume, and the cooking temperature.

W HITE BEEF STOCK 8 to 10 hours

W HITE AND BROWN VEAL AND 6 to 8 hours

GAME STOCKS

W HITE POULTRY AND GAME BIRD B to 4 hours

STOCKS

FISH STOCK AND FUMET 35 to 45 m in utes

VEGETABLE STOCKS 45 m in u te s to 1 hour, de pe nd ing on th e s p e c ific

in g re d ie n ts and th e size o f th e v e g e ta b le cut

262 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S


Chicken Stock
Makes l gal/3.84 L
8 lb /3.63 kg chicken bones, cut in 3-in /8-cm lengths
5 to 6 q t/4 .8 0 to 5.76 L cold water
1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 2 4 1)
1 . Rinse the bones under cool running water and place
them in an appropriate size stockpot.
2 . Add the cold water to cover the bones by about 2
in/5 cm- Slowly bring to a simmer. Skim the surface
as necessary.
3 . Simmer for 3 to 4 hours at approximately
i8o°F/82°C.
4 . Add the mirepoix and sachet and continue to sim­
mer the stock 1 hour more, skimming as necessary
and tasting from time to time.
5 . Strain the stock. It may be used now (degrease by
skimming, if necessary) or rapidly cooled and stored
for later use.
NOTES: Replace 2 lb/907 g o t the chicken bones w ith chicken
necks fo r an extra-rich, gelatinous stock.
Add or replace arom atic ingredients to achieve a
particular flavor. For an Asian-flavored chicken stock,
add ginger, lemongrass, and fresh or dried chiles. Juniper
berries can be added to game bird stocks along with
strongly flavored herbs, such as tarragon or rosemary,
or wild mushroom stems. Since these ingredients are
very strong, use discretion when adding so as not to
overflavor the stock.
W h ite Veal S tock: Replace the chicken bones w ith an equal
amount o f veal bones and simmer fo r 6 to 8 hours.
W hite B ee f S tock: Replace the chicken bones w ith an equal
amount o f beef bones and simmer fo r 8 to 10 hours.
stock recipes
Brown Veal Stock
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
8 lb /3.63 kg veal bones, including knuckles and trim
6 q t/5 .7 6 L cold water
1 lb /4 5 4 g large-dice Standard Mirepoix
ingredients (page 243), separate
6 o z/1 7 0 g tomato paste
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
1 . Condition the roasting pan: Heat the pan with
enough oil to lightly film it in a 4250 to 45o°F/2i8° to
232°C oven. If the bones are extremely fatty, no oil
is necessary. The fat will render during the roasting
process and the pan will be lubricated. Adding oil
at the beginning could be a waste. Spread the bones
in the pan and return to the oven. Roast the bones,
stirring and turning from time to time, until they are
deep brown, 30 to 45 minutes.
2 .. Transfer the bones to a stockpot large enough to ac­
commodate all of the ingredients. Add 5V2 qt/5.28 L
of the water and bring to a simmer at i8o°F/82°C.
3 . Discard the excess fat from the roasting pan but
reserve some for making the pipage. Return the
roasting pan to the oven or place it on the range,
depending on the stove space available. Caramelize
the carrots and onions. When they have attained a
rich brown color, add the celery and cook it until it
begins to wilt and shrivel, 10 to 15 minutes. (Celery
will not brown very much because of its high water
content.)
4 . Once the proper color of the mirepoix has been at­
tained, add the tomato paste and continue to cook
slowly until the pin^age has a rich brick reddish-
brown color. Once the tomato paste has been
cooked, remove the mixture from the pan. Add the
remaining water and deglaze the fond off the bottom
of the pan. Reduce the liquid to a syrupy consistency.
It is now ready to be added to the stock.
5 . After the stock has simmered for about 5 hours, add
the mirepoix mixture, reduced deglazing liquid, and
the sachet.
6 . Continue to simmer the stock at 180° to i 85°F/82° to
85°C, skimming as necessary and tasting from time
to time, until it has developed a rich flavor, notice­
able body, and rich brown color, about 1 hour more.
ch a p te r 12 » STOCKS 263
7 . Strain the stock. It may be used now (degrease by
skimming, if necessary) or rapidly cooled and stored
for later use.
Brown Game S to ck (Jus de G ibier): Replace the veal bones
and trim w ith an equal amount o f game bones and trim.
Include fennel seeds and/or ju nip er berries in a standard
sachet d'epices.
E stou ffad e: Replace half the veal bones and trim w ith beef
bones and trim and add an unsmoked ham hock.
Brown Lamb S tock: Replace the veal bones and trim w ith an
equal amount o f lamb bones and trim . Add one or more
of the follow ing herbs and spices to the sachet d'epices:
m int stems, juniper berries, cumin seeds, caraway seeds,
or rosemary.
Brown Pork S tock: Replace the veal bones and trim w ith an
equal amount o f fresh or smoked pork bones and trim.
Add one or more o f the follow ing herbs and spices to
a sachet d'epices: oregano stems, crushed red pepper,
caraway seeds, or mustard seeds.
Brown Chicken S tock: Replace the veal bones and trim with
an equal amount of chicken bones and trim.
Brown Duck S tock: Replace the veal bones and trim w ith an
equal amount o f duck bones and trim (or bones o f other
game birds, such as pheasant). Include fennel seeds and/
or juniper berries in the sachet d'epices, if desired.
STOCKS, SAUCES, AND SOUPS
Fish Fumet
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
I lb /4 5 4 g thinly sliced White Mirepoix (page 243)
10 o z/2 8 4 g sliced white mushrooms
I I lb /4.99 kg nonoily fish bones
4'/2 q t/4 .3 2 L cold water
1 q t/ 9 60 mL white wine
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
1 . Heat the oil in a large rondeau and sweat the mire­
poix and mushrooms followed by the fish bones.
Cover the pot and smother over medium heat until
the mirepoix is soft and the bones are opaque, 10 to
12 minutes.
2 . Add the water, wine, and sachet and bring to a sim­
mer at 180° to i85°F/82° to 85°C.
3 . Simmer uncovered for 35 to 45 minutes, skimming
the surface as necessary.
4 . Strain the fumet. It may be used now (degrease by
skimming, if necessary) or rapidly cooled and stored
for later use.
S he llfish S tock: Replace the fish bones w ith an equal
amount o f crustacean shells (shrimp, lobster, or crab).
Saute the shells in hot oil until the color deepens. Add
a standard mirepoix (page 243) and saute until tender.
If desired, add 3 oz/85 g tom ato paste and cook until
it takes on a deep red color, about 15 minutes. Add
enough w ater to cover the shells and simmer at 180° to
185°F/82° to 85°C fo r 40 minutes, skimming throughout
 stock recipes
Vegetable Stock Court Bouillon
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L Makes 1 gal/3.84 L

5 lb /2.27 kg nonstarchy vegetables 5 q t/4 .8 0 L cold water

(leeks, tomatoes, mushrooms, etc.)
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL white wine vinegar
5 q t/4 .8 0 L cold water
2 lb /9 0 7 g sliced onion
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 2 4 1)
1 lb /4 5 4 g sliced carrot

1 lb /4 5 4 g sliced celery
1 . Place all the ingredients into an appropriate size
stockpot. 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)

2 . Bring to a simmer at 180° to i85°F/82° to 85°C,

skimming as necessary. 1 . Combine all of the ingredients in a stockpot large
enough to accommodate them and simmer at 180°
3 . Simmer until a balanced fresh vegetable flavor is
to i85°F/82° to 85°C for 1 hour.
attained, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
2 . Strain the court bouillon. It may be used now or rap­
4 . Strain and cool to room temperature. Store in the
idly cooled and stored for later use.
refrigerator until use.

Roasted Vegetable Stock: Combine the vegetables with

2 fl oz/6 0 mL vegetable oil and roast in a large pan at
400°F/204°C ,turning to make sure all sides are evenly
browned, 15 to 2 0 minutes. Combine the roasted
vegetables w ith the w ater and sachet and simmer fo r 45
minutes to 1 hour.

c h a p te r 12 » ST OCKS 265
 Poultry and Meat Ichi Ban Dashi
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
Stock (Brodo)
2 pieces kombu, 3-in/8-cm squares
Makes l gal/3.84 L
1 g al/3 .8 4 L cold water
1 stewing hen (about 6 lb /2.72 kg),
2 to 3 o z/5 7 to 85 g dried bonito flakes (katsuobushi)
excess skin and fa t removed

2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg beef shank

1 . Slash the kombu with a knife in a few places and
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg chicken wings
wipe it with a damp cloth to remove sand; do not
2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg turkey bones, cracked remove any of the flavorful white powder. (Undesir­
8 o z/2 2 7 g chicken feet able flavors and a gooey, gelatinous texture develop if
the center of kombu is exposed or boiled.)
I V 2 gal /5 .7 6 L cold water
2 . Combine the cold water and kombu in large stain­
3 lb /1.36 kg roughly chopped
Standard Mirepoix (page 243) less-steel stockpot. Bring to just below a boil over
medium heat. Before it begins to boil, remove the
5 garlic cloves, crushed
kombu; reserve if desired (see Note).
2 bay leaves
3 . Add the dried bonito and turn off the heat. Steep 2
6 parsley stems
minutes.
V 2 bunch thyme
4 . Skim carefully. Gently strain the dashi and reserve
the solids. The dashi may be used now or rapidly
1 . Rinse all of the meat and bones twice with hot water. cooled and stored for later use.
Drain.
NOTE: For niban dashi (second dashi), combine the reserved
2 .. Place the meat and bones in a large stockpot and
kombu and drained bonito w ith 1 q t/9 6 0 mL water,
cover with water by 6 in/15 cm- Bring to a simmer at
simmer fo r 2 0 minutes, and strain. Use the second dashi
180° to i85°F/82° to 85°C over medium heat, skim­ in dipping sauces, dressings, stews, or braises, or for
ming as necessary. cooking vegetables.
3 . Add the mirepoix, garlic, bay leaves, parsley, and
thyme. Continue to slowly simmer over medium-low
heat for 6 hours, skimming often. Take care not to
let the broth boil, as boiling will make it cloudy.
4 . Strain the broth. It may be used now (degrease by
skimming, if necessary) or rapidly cooled and stored
for later use.

266 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S

sauces
Sauces are often considered one of the greatest tests o f a chef's
skill. The successful pairing of a sauce with a food demonstrates
technical expertise, an understanding of the food, and the ability

to judge and evaluate a dish's flavors, textures, and colors.

 At one tim e the term brown sauce was equated e x clu sive ly w ith the cla ssic sauces

espagnole and dem i-glace. Today it may a ls o indicate jus de v e a u lie, pan sauces, or

re d u c tio n -s ty le sauces based on a brow n o r fo r tifie d stock.

brown sauce
Espagnole sauce is prepared by b o ls te rin g a brow n veal s to ck w ith a d d itio n a l roasted
m irepoix, to m a to pingage, and a ro m a tics and th icke n in g it w ith brow n roux. Classically,
dem i-glace is com posed o f equal p a rts espagnole and brow n s to c k and reduced by h a lf
or to a nappe consistency. These days, it may be made o f brow n sto c k w ith a d d itio n a l
brow ned trim and m ire poix, and reduced to a nappe con sisten cy and o p tio n a lly thicke ne d
w ith a starch slu rry. Jus lies are made by reducing brown sto cks o r f o r tifie d sto cks (w ith
added fla vo rin g s, if desired) and th icke n in g the m w ith a pure sta rch slu rry. Pan sauces
and re d u ctio n sauces are produced as p a rt o f th e ro a s tin g or sau tein g cooking process;
th icke n in g can be accom plished by re d u ctio n or th e a d d itio n o f roux o r pure s ta rch slurries.
Regardless o f th e approach taken, th e end goal is the same; to make a basic brow n sauce
th a t is fla v o rfu l enough to be served as is b u t can also be used as the fo u n d a tio n f o r o th e r
sauces.
The u ltim a te success o f the brown sauce depends d ire c tly on the base stock, usually
Brown Veal S to ck (page 26 3). The sto c k m ust be o f e xce lle n t q u a lity, w ith a rich and w ell-
balanced fla v o r and aroma, and w ith o u t any s tro n g notes o f m ire poix, herbs, or spices th a t
m ig h t overw helm th e fin ish e d sauce.
Bones and trim , cut in sm all pieces fo r fa s te r e x tra c tio n , are added to the base sto ck to
im prove its flavo r. M ire p o ix, cut in to large dice, may also be added. However, if th e s to ck is
e xtre m e ly fla v o rfu l, a d d itio n a l bones, trim , and m ire p o ix m ay n o t be necessary. M ushroom
trim , herbs, garlic, or sh a llo ts may also be added to the sauce as it develops.
Roux (see page 2 4 6) is one th ick e n in g op tion . It m ay be prepared ahead o f tim e or
may be prepared as p a rt o f the sauce-m aking process. The th icke n e r o f choice f o r jus lie is
cornstarch, although a n othe r pure starch, such as p o ta to s ta rch o r a rro w ro o t, m ay be used.
C ornstarch is p re fe ra b le because it re su lts in a tra n slu ce n t, g lossy sauce.
Jus lie is ge ne rally prepared in a saucepan o r p o t th a t is w id e r than it is ta ll. This is the
m o s t e ffe c tiv e means o f e x tra c tin g fla v o rs fu lly and qu ickly in to th e fin ish e d sauce. You
w ill also need a kitche n spoon, ladle, or skim m e r to skim th e developing sauce, and ta s tin g
spoons, fin e -m e sh strain ers, and con tain ers to hold the fin is h e d sauce. A d d itio n a l co n ta in ­
ers are necessary fo r bo th coo lin g and s to rin g the sauce.

268 STOCKS, SA U C E S , A N D SO U P S

D basic formula
Brown Sauce
(1 ga 1/3.84 L)
4 lb/1.81 kg additional
bones and trim
1 lb/454 g large-cut Standard
Mirepoix (page 243)
method
at-a-glance
Brown Sauce
Brown the bones, trim , and
mirepoix.
2. Add the tom ato product;
saute to pingage.
3. Incorporate the stock.
Simmer 2 V 2 to 3 hours;
skim as necessary. Add the
sachet d'epices or bouquet
garni during the last hour
o f simmering.
Whisk in the roux and
simmer fo r 30 minutes.
6. Strain and use or cool and
store properly.
Jus Lie
Brown the trim , mirepoix,
and tom ato paste.
2. Add the liquid and bring to
a boil.
3. Reduce the heat and
simmer; skim as necessary.
Add the thickening agent.
5. Strain.
6. Finish, garnish, and use.
brown sauce
Oil, for browning bones, Jus Lie
trim, and mirepoix (1 gal/3.84 L)
5 to 6 oz/142 to 170 g 2 lb/907 g veal trim
tomato paste or puree
1 lb/454 g Standard
5 qt/4.80 L Brown Veal Stock Mirepoix (page 243)
(page 263)
2 oz/57 g tomato paste
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices or
5 qt/4.80 L Brown Veal
Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241)
Stock (page 263)
1 lb 2 oz/510 g Brown Roux
(see page 246)
3 to 4 oz/85 to 113 g
cornstarch or arrowroot
Cold stock or water as needed to
bring the slurry mixture to the
consistency of heavy cream
expert tips
To improve the flavor: A d d itio n a lin g re d ie n ts such as the f o l­
low ing m ay be added as th e sauce develops:
BONES A N D T R IM / M IR E P O IX , C UT INTO S M A L L PIEC ES / M U S H R O O M T R IM ,
C U T IN TO LARGE DICE / HERB S / GA R LIC / S H A LLO TS
To thicken the sauce The texture—and to some extent the
color— of a brown sauce depends on the type of thickener used. Any one of the
following may be used for thickening, depending on your desired results:
R O U X / PUREED M IR E P O IX / R E D U C TIO N (D E M I-G L A C E ) / PURE STARCH
(ARR O W RO O T, POTATO STA R CH , OR C O R NSTAR C H)
Finishing Some ingredients may be added to the simmering sauce after
it has finished cooking:
W IN E TH A T HAS R EDUCED FROM D E G LA ZIN G OR HAS S IM M E R E D W ITH
A R O M A T IC S / F O R T IFIE D W IN E S SUCH AS PORT, M A D E IR A , OR S H E R R Y / W HOLE
B UTTE R , COLD OR AT R OOM TE M P E R A TU R E
G a m i s h i n g A garnish of precooked high-moisture ingredients may be
added before serving:
M U S H R O O M S / SH A L LO T S / TO M ATO ES
c h a p te r 13 » SA UCES 269
 1. brown the bones, trim , and m ire poix
in a ro a s tin g pan or h e a v y -b o tto m e d s to c k p o t. The fla v o r
o f th e base s to c k is usually f o r t if ie d w ith w e ll-b row n ed
m ea ty bones, lean trim m eat, and m ire poix, or a com ­
m ercial base. B row ning the se in g re d ie n ts w ill enrich the
fin is h e d sauce and help darken its color. Brown them by
ro a s tin g in a litt le o il in a h o t oven (425° to 4 5 0 °F /2 1 8 °
to 232°C ) o r over m edium to high heat on the sto v e to p
in th e same large s to c k p o t th a t w ill be used to sim m er
the sauce. L e t th e bones, trim , and m ire p o ix reach a
deep golden brown. A llo w th e to m a to paste to "cook out"
(pince) u n til ru s t colore d to reduce excessive sweetness,
a cid ity, and b itte rn e s s . This m etho d also encourages the
d e velopm e nt o f th e sauce's overall fla v o r and aroma. If
b ro w n ing th e m ire p o ix in the oven, add th e to m a to p ro d ­
u ct to th e ro a s tin g pan w ith th e vegetables. If brow ning
th e m ire p o ix on th e s to ve to p , add th e to m a to p ro d u ct
when th e veg etab le s are nearly brow ned. Be c a re fu l not
to le t th e to m a to paste burn, as it cooks o u t v e ry qu ickly
on th e sto ve to p .
If you brow ned the bones, trim , and m ire p o ix in the
oven, tra n s fe r the m to th e s to c k p o t. Discard any excess

m eth o d in d etail fa t, deglaze th e ro a s tin g pan, and add the deglazing liquid
to the sauce. O therw ise, deglaze th e s to c k p o t w ith some
o f the stock.
Add th e rem a ining brow n s to c k to th e bones, trim , and
m ire p o ix and sim m er f o r 2 to 4 hours, skim m ing as neces­
sary th ro u g h o u t th e coo kin g tim e . (See photog rap h on
page 25 8.) L e t th e sauce base sim m er long enough fo r the
ric h e s t po ssib le fla v o r to develop. S kim th e surface o fte n
th ro u g h o u t sim m e rin g tim e . P ulling th e p o t o f f ce n te r on
th e bu rne r encourages im p u ritie s to c o lle c t on one side o f
th e pot, w here th e y are easier to collect.

2. add the sachet a n d /o r o th e r a ro m a tics

as th e fla v o r develops, ab o u t an hour b e fo re straining.
S im m e ring develops fla v o r in tw o ways: e x tra c tin g fla v o r
fro m th e bones, trim , and m ire p o ix and reducing th e v o l­
ume o f liq u id to co n ce n tra te the flavo r. Taste th e sauce
base fre q u e n tly as it develops and ad ju st th e seasoning
as necessary by adding o r rem o ving aro m atics, such as a
sachet, or adding seasonings. Remove fro m the heat once
th e de sire d fla v o r is achieved, 3 to 5 hours.
O ptional: Add a pre pa red brow n roux now and sim m er
f o r 15 to 20 m inutes, if desired, to prepare an espagnole
sauce. For ju s lie, add a pure sta rch s lu rry e ith e r b e fo re or
a fte r stra in in g , if desired, and sim m er u n til thicke ne d, 2 to
3 m inutes.

270 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S

 brown sauce
3. strain the sauce using a fin e -m e sh sieve
or a double th ickn e ss o f cheesecloth. It is now ready to
fin is h f o r service o r may be cooled ra p id ly and sto re d . The
te x tu re , and to som e e xte n t, th e co lo r o f a brow n sauce
depend on th e ty p e o f th ic k e n e r used. A rou x-th icke ned
brown sauce (espagnole) is opaque w ith a th ic k body. A
sauce thicke ne d w ith pureed m ire poix is also th ic k and
opaque but w ith a s lig h tly rougher, m ore ru s tic te x tu re . A
sauce thicke ne d w ith bo th roux and red uctio n (dem i-glace)
is tra n slu ce n t and highly glossy, w ith a noticeable body,
although it should never fe e l ta cky in the mouth. A pure
sta rch -th icke n e d sauce (jus lie), as shown in the accom pa­
nying photograph, has a g re a te r degree o f c la rity than oth er
brown sauces, as w ell as a lig h te r te x tu re and color. How­
ever, it cannot be cooled and reheated like a roux thickened
sauce because the starch w ill lose its thicke ning power.
Finish as desired and hold a t 16 5°F /74°C fo r service.
If th e sauce base has been cooled, re tu rn it to a s im ­
m er and make any necessary a d ju s tm e n t to its fla v o r or
consistency. If th e sauce req uire s a d d itio n a l thicke ning,
e ith e r reduce it by s im m e rin g over m edium heat to the
de sire d th ickn e ss o r nappe or add a sta rch s lu rry now. If
th e sauce has alrea dy been th icke n e d w ith a roux or by
red uctio n, no a d d itio n a l th ic k e n e r is necessary.
Brow n sauces can be fin is h e d fo r service by adding
red uctio ns, f o r t if ie d wines, garnishes, a n d /o r w hole b u t­
ter. Brown sauces so m e tim e s develop a skin when the y
are held uncovered. To avoid th is , use a f it te d cover fo r
th e b a in -m a rie or a piece o f pa rchm e nt paper o r p la s tic
wrap cu t to f i t d ire c tly on th e surface o f th e sauce.

4. a brown sauce o f e xce lle n t q u a lity has a

fu ll, rich fla vo r. The in itia l ro a s tin g o f bones, trim m in g s,
and m ire p o ix gives th e fin is h e d sauce a plea sant roa ste d
or caram el arom a, re a d ily d isce rn ib le when th e sauce is
heated, and a p re d o m in a n t fla v o r o f ro a ste d m ea t or veg­
etables. The m ire p o ix, to m a to , and a ro m a tics should n o t
ove rpo w er th e main fla v o r. There should be no b itte r or
b u rn t fla vo rs.
Good brow n sauces have a deep brow n co lo r w ith o u t
any dark specks o r debris, as shown on rig h t. The color
is a ffe c te d by th e c o lo r o f th e base sto ck, th e am ount
o f to m a to p ro d u c t used (to o much w ill give a red cast to
th e sauce), th e am ount o f c a ra m e liza tio n on th e trim and
m ire poix, p ro p e r skim m ing, and th e length o f sim m e ring
tim e (re d u ctio n fa c to r), as w e ll as any fin is h in g o r g a rn ish ­
ing in g re d ie n ts.

ch a p te r 13 » SAUCES 271
 Examples of Brown Sauce Derivatives
NAME OF DERIVATIVE FLAVOR ADDITIONS AND FINISHING TYPICALLY SERVED WITH

BIGARADE C aram elized sugar d ilu te d w ith vinegar, F eath ered game, duck
ora n g e ju ice , and lem on ju ices. Finish
w ith blanched fin e ly ju lie n n e d orange
and lem on zests

BORDELAISE Red wine, sh a llo ts, pe pp ercorn s, thym e, G rille d red m eats, fis h (in
and bay leaf. Finish w ith lem on ju ice, c o n te m p o ra ry cooking)
m ea t glaze, and diced or sliced poached
bone m arro w

BOURGUIGNONNE Red w ine, sh a llo ts, thym e, parsley, bay Eggs o r b e e f

leaf, and m ushroom s. Finish w ith w hole
b u tte r and a pinch o f cayenne pe pp er

BRETONNE Onions, b u tte r, w h ite wine, to m a to e s , Green Beans a la B retonne

and g a rlic. Finish w ith a pinch o f
co a rse ly chopped parsley

CHARCUTIERE Sauce R o b e rt fin is h e d w ith ju lie n n e d Sm oked pork

cornichons

CH ASSEUR/ M ushroom s, s h a llo ts, w h ite wine, B e e f and fu rre d game

H U N T S M A N ’S brandy, and to m a to e s . Finished w ith
b u tte r and herbs (tarrag on , che rvil, a n d /
o r parsley)

CHERRY P o rt wine, pa te spice, orange ze st and Duck o r venison

ju ice , red cu rra n t je lly , and che rries

CHEVREUIL P oivrade Sauce w ith bacon in the B eef, fe a th e re d o r fu rre d game

m ire p o ix, red wine. (Use game trim m in g s
in place o f bacon fo r fe a th e re d game.)
Finish w ith a pinch o f sugar and cayenne

DIANE M ire p o ix , game trim , bay leaf, thym e, F eath ered o r fu rre d game
parsley, w h ite wine, and pe pp ercorn s.
Finish w ith b u tte r, w h ip p e d cream , and
sm all cre sce n ts o f t r u f fle and cooked
egg w h ite

FINANCIERE M adeira w ine and t r u f f le essence B ee f

GENEVOISE/GENOISE M ire p o ix , salm on trim , and red wine. Salm on and tr o u t

Finish w ith anchovy essence and b u tte r

GRATIN W h ite wine, fish , sh a llo ts, and parsley Sole or o th e r w h ite fis h

ITALIENNE T om atoes and ham. (When p re p a rin g fo r P o u ltry o r fis h

fish , o m it ham.) Finish w ith ta rra g o n ,
che rvil, and parsley

272 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S

 brown sauce
NAME OF DERIVATIVE FLAVOR ADDITIONS AND FINISHING TYPICALLY SERVED WITH

MATELOTE Red wine, m ushroom s, fis h trim , parsley, Eel

and cayenne

M USHROOM M ush roo m s and b u tte r B eef, veal, p o u ltry

POIVRADE M ire p o ix, gam e trim , bay leaf, thym e, F urred game
parsley, w h ite wine, and pe pp ercorn s.
Finish w ith b u tte r

REGENCE Red wine, m ire p o ix, b u tte r, and t r u f fle S auteed live rs and kidneys

ROBERT Onions, b u tte r, and w h ite w ine. Finish G rille d p o rk

w ith a pinch o f sugar and English dry
m ustard , d ilu te d

ZIN G AR A S h a llo ts, bread crum bs, and b u tte r. Veal o r p o u ltry
Finish w ith p a rsle y and lem on ju ice

c h a p te r 13 » SAUCES 273
 The w hite sa u c e FAMILY includes TH E C L A S S I C S A U C E S V E L O U T E A ND B E C H A M E L , BOTH P R O DU CE D

BY THI CK E N IN G A LIQUID WITH ROUX . A CLASSIC VELOUTE, WHICH TR A NSLA TES FROM FREN C H AS

" V E L V E T Y , S O F T , A N D S M O O T H TO T H E P A L A T E , " IS P R E P A R E D B Y F L A V O R I N G A W H I T E S T O C K ( V E A L ,

CH ICKEN, OR fish ) W I T H A R O M A T I C S A N D T H I C K E N I N G IT W I T H B L O N D R O U X . I n E S C O F F I E R ’S T I M E , A

B E C H A M E L S A U C E W A S M A D E B Y A D D I N G C R E A M TO A R E L A T I V E L Y T H I C K V E L O U T E S A U C E . T O D A Y , IT IS

M A D E BY T H I CK E NI NG MI L K ( S O M E T I M E S IN FU S ED WITH A R O M A T I C S FOR F LA V O R ) WITH A PA L E ROUX.

white sauce
S tock (veal, chicken, fish, or vegetable) or m ilk used to make w h ite sauces may be bro ug ht to
a sim m er and, if desired, infused w ith aro m atics and fla vo rin g s to produce a special fla v o r
a n d /o r color in the fin ish e d sauce. Blond roux is the tra d itio n a l th icke n e r fo r veloutes; blond
or w h ite roux may be used fo r a bechamel (the darker the roux, th e m ore golden th e sauce
w ill be). The am ount o f roux d e term in es the thickness o f a w h ite sauce (see page 246).
A d d itio n a l m ire poix, m ushroom trim , o r m em bers o f th e onion fa m ily are som etim es
added, e ith e r to stre n g th e n the fla v o r o f th e sauce or to cre a te a sp e c ific fla v o r p ro file .
Cut the m in to sm all dice or slice them th in ly to encourage rapid fla v o r release in to the
sauce.
W hite sauces scorch easily, and th e y can ta ke on a grayish cast if prepared in an alu­
m inum pan. Choose a heavy nonalum inum p o t w ith a p e rfe c tly f la t b o tto m f o r th e best
results. S im m er w h ite sauces on a fla tto p fo r gentle, even heat, o r use a heat d iffu s e r if
available.
The liquid used to make a w h ite sauce is d iffe re n t depending on the desired use and
w h e th e r it is a ve lo u te or a bechamel. Liquids used to make ve lo u te include w h ite veal
stock, chicken stock, fis h stock, or veg etab le stock. The liquid used to make becham el is
ty p ic a lly m ilk.

274 STOCKS, SAUCES, A N D SO U P S


Q basic formula
White Sauce
(1 gal/3.84 L)
Aromatics (white mirepoix,
minced onions or oignon
pique, or mushroom trim;
meat trim), as needed
method
at-a-glance
Sweat aromatics, if
necessary. Make or soften
roux.
Combine liquid and roux.
Bring to a boil.
Pull the pot o ff center of
the heat.
Skim and s tir frequently.
Simmer. Add seasonings as
needed.
Strain.
Finish, garnish, and use, or
cool and store.
white sauce
Butter or oil, as needed 1 lb/ 454 g White or Blond
Roux (page 246)
5 q t/4.80 L flavorful liquid
(white stock for veloute; 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices or
milk for bechamel) Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241)
Seasonings, as appropriate,
as needed
expert tips
Additional seasonings may be added depending on the desired
flavor profile and the richness of the stock. Mirepoix and vegetable trim from
mushrooms or onions would be added at the beginning of the cooking process,
while aromatics such as a sachet should be added during the last 30 minutes
of simmering. When adding cheese, it should be grated and stirred in after the
sauce has been thickened, and simmered before straining.
ADDITIONAL SEASONINGS
A SA C H E T D 'E P IC ES OR B O U Q U E T G A R NI / R O ASTED TO M ATO PR OD UC T /
GRATED CHEESE
Using d iffe re n t amounts o f roux vary the consistency of
sauce, which is necessary depending on the desired use. The following amounts
are based on 1 gal/3.84 L liquid.
For a light consistency fo r soups, add 10 to 12 o z /2 8 4 to 3 4 0 g blond or
white roux.
For medium consistency fo r most sauces, increase the amount of roux to 12
to 14 o z /3 4 0 to 3 9 7 g.
For heavy consistency as a binder fo r croquettes, fillings, stuffings, or baked
pasta dishes, increase the amount of roux to 1 lb 2 oz to 1 lb 4 o z /5 1 0 to 5 6 7 g.
A heavy bechamel should be strained by the wringing method us­
ing cheesecloth because it is too thick to pass through a fine-mesh strainer.
c h a p te r 13 » SAUCES 275
 1. sweat the aromatics in a sm all
am ount o f b u tte r o r oil. A ny m ea t trim included should be
g e n tly cooked w ith th e m and n o t brow ned a t all. There are
several m etho ds o f in c o rp o ra tin g th e roux in to the w h ite
sauce. The f ir s t is to add flo u r to th e f a t and aro m atics
in th e p o t and cook, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly . The roux is then
cooked in th e pot, as p a rt o f th e sauce-m aking process
("singer"). Add m ore o il o r b u tte r as needed to produce a
roux o f th e a p p ro p ria te consistency. L e t th e roux cook fo r
ab ou t 4 to 5 m in u te s o r to a lig h t blond co lo r (as shown in
th e accom panying photograph).
A n o th e r m etho d is to add a pre pa red roux to th e s o f t ­
ened a ro m atics. A fin a l m ethod is to add th e liquid to the
a ro m a tics and b rin g it to a sim m er; later, w h isk a prepared
roux in to th e sim m e rin g liquid. In e ith e r case, the roux
should be w arm when it is added to th e h o t stock.
Add th e liquid to th e roux gradually. M any chefs add
cool or ro o m -te m p e ra tu re s to c k o r m ilk to the roux. O th ­
ers p re fe r to b rin g th e liq u id to a sim m er separately,
which allow s the m to ad ju st th e seasoning w ith salt,
pepper, o r o th e r a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts. If th e liquid is
preheated, it should be rem oved fro m th e heat so th a t its
m eth o d in d etail te m p e ra tu re dro ps s lig h tly , m aking it coo le r than the hot
roux. Add th e liq u id in stages, w h iskin g u n til very sm ooth
betw een ad d itio n s.

2. add the sachet, seasoning, or

o th e r a ro m a tics and sim m e r fo r 30 m in utes on low to m e­
dium heat, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly and ta s tin g th ro u g h o u t the
cooking tim e . V ery rich sto c k s may n o t req uire a d d itio n a l
a ro m atics. If desired, e ith e r in fu se the liquid w ith them
when p re h e a tin g o r add a sach et o r bouq ue t garni once
th e sauce re tu rn s to a sim m er. A sim m e ring tim e o f at
le a st 30 m in utes is long enough to cook away any raw f la ­
v o r fro m th e roux. Use a wooden spoon to s tir the sauce
occa sio nally w h ile it sim m ers. Make sure th a t the spoon
scrapes th e b o tto m and corners o f the pot, to prevent
scorching. (S corching is o f m ore concern w ith becham el
than w ith velou te , because m ilk solids ten d to se ttle .)
Taste th e sauce fre q u e n tly as it develops, a d ju stin g
th e seasoning as necessary. To te s t th e te x tu re , hold a
sm all am ount o f th e sauce on y o u rto n g u e and press it
a g ainst th e ro o f o f your m outh. If the sauce is ad eq ua te ly
cooked, th e re w ill be no ta cky, gluey, o r g r itty sensation.

276 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S

 white sauce
3. strain the sauce. As the sauce sim m ers,
it a lm o st in e v ita b ly develops a th ic k skin on its surface as
w e ll as a heavy, gluey layer on th e b o tto m and sides o f the
pot. S tra in in g th e sauce rem oves any lum ps and develops
a very sm oo th te x tu re . The sauce is ready to use now, or it
may be cooled and s to re d f o r la te r use. Finish as desired
and hold th e sauce a t 1 6 5 °F /7 4 °C f o r service.
If th e sauce has been cooled, re tu rn it to a sim m er
over low heat, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly . M ake any necessary ad­
ju s tm e n ts to th e con sisten cy, and add any fin is h in g in g re ­
dients. For w h ite sauce d e riv a tiv e s , th e base sauce may
be fla v o re d w ith a re d u ctio n or essence and garnished.
W h ite sauces are also o fte n fin is h e d w ith cream.
W h ite sauces may develop a skin i f held uncovered. To
avoid th is, use a f it t e d cover on th e bain -m a rie or place a
piece o f p a rchm e nt paper o r p la s tic w rap d ire c tly on the
surface o f th e sauce. An e xce lle n t w h ite sauce m eets sev­
eral c rite ria . The fla v o r re fle c ts th e liq u id used in its p re p ­
aration. The sauce should be tra n slu ce n t, w ith a d e fin ite
sheen. A good w h ite sauce is p e rfe c tly sm ooth, w ith no­
tic e a b le body and no graininess. It is th ic k enough to coa t
th e back o f a spoon y e t s till easy to pour fro m a ladle.

ch a p te r 13 » SAUCES 277
Examples of Sauce Veloute Derivatives
FLAVOR ADDITIONS AND
NAME OF DERIVATIVE TYPICALLY SERVED WITH
FINISHING

ALBUFERA Sauce Suprem e, m ea t glaze, and Poached and braised p o u ltry

p im ie n to b u tte r

ALLEM AN D E/PAR ISIEN N E M ushroom s, egg y olks, and P o u ltry

lem on

AMERICAINE Anchovies, fis h trim , and b u tte r Fish

AURORE Tom ato puree Eggs, w h ite m eat, and p o u ltry

AURORE MAIGRE Fish trim and b u tte r Fish

AUXCREVETTES Fish trim , cream, shrim p shells, Fish and ce rta in egg dishes
and b u tte r

BERCY S ha llots, w h ite wine, fis h trim , Fish

b u tte r, and chopped parsley

BONNEFOY W h ite B ord elaise w ith w h ite G rille d fis h and w h ite m eats
wine and ve lo u te in ste a d o f
espagnole. Finish w ith ta rra g o n

BRETONNE Fish trim , cream , leeks, celery, Fish

onions, and m ushroom s

CHIVRY W h ite wine, che rvil, parsley, Poached and b o ile d p o u ltry
ta rra g o n , s h a llo ts, chives, and
fre s h young salad b u rn e t

DIPLOMATE Fish trim , b u tte r, lo b s te r m eat, W hole large fis h

and t r u f fle

NORMANDE Fish trim , m ushroom s, mussels, Sole N orm ande and a w ide range
le m o n ju ic e , and egg yolks o f o th e r fis h dishes. A lso used
as base

SUPREME M ushroom s, cream , and b u tte r P o u ltry

VILLERO Y M ushroom s, egg yolks, lemon, Used to co a t ite m s to be

ham, and t r u f fle breaded

VIN BLANC Fish trim , egg yolks, and b u tte r Fish

STOCKS, SAUCES, AND SOUPS

 white sauce
Examples of Sauce Bechamel Derivatives
FLAVOR A D D IT IO N S AND
N A M E OF D E R IVA TIVE T Y P IC A L L Y S ER VED W IT H
F I N I S H IN G

BOHEMIENNE Tarragon. Served cold Cold fis h , poached salm on

CARDINAL T ru ffle s and lo b s te r Fish, tr u ffle s , and lo b s te r

ECOSSAISE/SCOTCH EGG Eggs Eggs

H O M A R D A L ’A N G LA IS E / A nchovy essence. G arnished w ith Fish

LOBSTER diced lo b s te r m e a t and cayenne

HUITRES/OYSTER O yster. G arnished w ith sliced poached Poached fis h

o yste rs

MORNAY G ruyere and Parm esan. Finish w ith Poached fis h

b u tte r

SAUCE A L'AN G LAISE/ EGG Eggs and nutm eg D e sse rt sauces

chapter 13 » S A U C E S 279
 To m ato s a u c e s of a l l so rts , fro m fr esh and sim ply s e a s o n e d to c o m p l e x and highly

S E A S O N E D , A R E F E A T U R E D IN C U I S I N E S A R O U N D T H E W O R L D . T O M A T O S A U C E IS A G E N E R I C T E R M U S E D

TO D E S C R I B E A N Y S A U C E B A S E D M A I N L Y O N T O M A T O E S . T O M A T O S A U C E S C A N B E M A D E S E V E R A L W A Y S .

Th e y m a y be raw or c o o k e d ,a n y w h e r e f r o m t e n m in u t e s to s e v e r a l h o u r s . In so m e v e r s io n s ,

O L I V E O I L IS T H E O N L Y C O O K I N G FAT. F or O T H E R S , R E N D E R E D S A L T P O R K O R B A C O N IS R E Q U I R E D . S O M E

RE CI PE S C A L L FOR RO AS TE D V E A L OR PO R K BONES; OT HE R S AR E M A D E ST RI CT L Y F R O M TO MA TO ES AND

OTHER V E G E T A B L E S . S O M E TOMATO S A U C E S A RE P U R E ED UNTIL S MOO TH W H I L E OT HE RS ARE LEFT

CH U N K Y . E S C O F F I E R 'S TOMATO S A U C E RE LIE D ON R O U X AS A TH IC KE NE R .

tomato sauce
Good to m a to sauce can be made fro m fre s h or canned to m a to e s. When fre s h to m a to e s
are a t th e ir peak, it may be a good idea to use them exclusively. A t o th e r tim e s o f the year,
g o o d -q u a lity canned to m a to e s are a b e tte r choice. Plum to m a to e s, som etim es re fe rre d
to as Romas, are gene rally p re fe rre d fo r to m a to sauces because the y have a high ra tio o f
fle s h to skin and seeds. Fresh to m a to e s may be skinned and seeded f o r sauce, or the y may
be sim p ly rinsed, cored, and qu a rte re d or chopped. Canned to m a to e s come peeled and
whole, crushed or pureed, o r a com b in ation o f th e tw o. Tom ato paste is som etim es added
to th e sauce as well.
There are many choices fo r a d ditiona l fla v o rin g ingredients. Some recipes call fo r a sta n ­
dard m ire poix as the aro m atic vegetable com ponent, w hile oth ers rely on ga rlic and onions.
Choose a heavy-gauge p o t made o f nonreactive m a te ria ls such as stain le ss stee l or
anodized alum inum , because to m a to e s have a high acid con te n t. Because o f the high sugar
co n te n t o f some to m a to e s, you w ill need to e sta blish an even heat w ith o u t h o t spo ts so
the sauce w ill not scorch. Use a fo o d m ill to puree th e sauce. For a ve ry sm oo th te x tu re , you
may w ish to use a blender, im m ersion blender, or fo o d processor.
A good to m a to sauce is opaque and s lig h tly coarse, w ith a co n ce n tra te d fla v o r o f t o ­
m atoes and no tra ce o f b itte rn e s s or excess a c id ity or sw eetness. The in gre die nts selected
to fla v o r th e sauce should provide only su b tle underpinnings. Tom ato sauces should pour
easily. The sauce on th e rig h t was not pureed w hile the sauce on th e le ft was pureed using
the fin e opening o f a fo o d m ill.

280 S T OC K S , S A U C E S , A N D S O U P S
 tomato sauce
Q basic formula
Tomato Sauce 10 to 12 lb/4.54 to 5.44 kg smoked meats, stock, thickener
(1 gal/3.84 L) fresh tomatoes or 5 qt/4.80 L (roux or pure starch slurries)
canned tomatoes with liquid
2 f I oz/60 mL oil or other cooking fat Salt, as needed
Additional ingredients or
12 oz/340 g minced onion
preparations (depending on Ground black pepper, as needed
formula or intended use): tomato
2 tbsp/18 g garlic, minced
puree and/or paste, carrots or
mirepoix, fresh and/or dried herbs,

method
at-a-glance
Sweat the onion and garlic. expert tips
2. Add the remaining
ingredients and bring to a
To develop d iffe re n t flavors, add any of the following ingre­
simmer.
dients at the appropriate time. Some are added early in the cooking process,
3. S tir frequently. while others are added near the end so they retain their individual flavor and
fresh taste. Onions and other aromatics added at the very beginning of the
Simmer.
cooking process may be sauteed until lightly browned rather than until just
Puree, if desired. tender for additional depth of flavor.
Finish, garnish, and use, or
FRESH A N D /O R D RIED HERBS / S M O K ED M E A TS / S M O K E D H AM BONE OR PORK
cool and store.
BONE / TO M ATO PASTE OR PUREE / O N IO N S A ND C ARROTS, SW EATED AND

C H O P P E D /S T O C K

When appropriate, a tomato sauce may be thickened with any of

the following:

R O U X / PURE STARCH S LU R R IE S

The type o f tom a to product used will have a definite effect

on the final product. Any of the following may be used, alone or in combination:

FRESH TO M ATO E S / C AN N ED TO M ATOES: W H O LE, PEELED, D IC E D , PUREED, OR

C R U S H E D /T O M A T O PASTE

Depending on the desired finished consistency of the tomato sauce,

it may be pureed.

ch a p te r 13 » SAUCES 281
 1. cook the onions and garlic w ith
oil in a heavy-gauge n o nre active s to c k p o t o r saucepot
u n til te n d e r and to th e desired color. Sw eat or saute the
a ro m a tic veg etab le s g e n tly to release th e ir fla v o r in to
th e f a t to help th e fla v o r pe rm e a te the sauce. The way
th e veg etab le s are cooked in flue nces th e fla v o r o f the
fin is h e d sauce: th e veg etab le s are usually sw eated in a fa t
u n til th e y becom e tender, b u t f o r a m ore com plex ro a ste d
flavo r, th e y may be sauteed u n til lig h tly browned.

2 . add the tomatoes and any rem aining

in g re d ie n ts and sim m e r u n til th e fla v o r is fu lly developed.
S tir fre q u e n tly , skim m ing and ta s tin g th ro u g h o u t the
coo kin g tim e . If desired, add fre s h herbs ju s t b e fo re the
sauce has fin is h e d cooking. (A fre s h c h iffo n a d e o f basil
can be added a t th is point.)
m eth o d in d etail C ooking tim e varies, depending on th e ingredients.
B ut in general, th e less coo kin g tim e , th e b e tte r f o r any
sauce based on fr u its or veg etab le s. E xtended cooking d i­
m inishes th e fre s h fla v o rs . M o s t to m a to sauces should be
cooked ju s t long enough fo r the fla v o rs to m eld tog ether.
If a to m a to sauce th a t is n o t go in g to be pureed is to o
w a te ry, s tra in it and reduce th e excess liquid sep ara te ly
to avoid overcooking.
S tir to m a to sauce fre q u e n tly th ro u g h o u t pre pa ration ,
and check th e fla v o r occasionally. If it becom es necessary
to c o rre c t a harsh or b itte r fla vo r, sw e at a sm all am ount
o f chopped onion and c a rro t and add the m to the sauce. If
th e fla v o r is weak, add a sm all am ount o f reduced to m a to
pa ste or puree. Too much sw eetness may be c o rre cte d by
adding stock, w a te r, or m ore to m a to e s.
Puree th e sauce, i f desired, using a fo o d m ill. If using a
blender, a sm all am o un t o f o il added durin g p ureeing w ill
e m u ls ify th e sauce, c re a tin g a lig h te r y e t th ic k e r con sis­
tency. Pureeing the sauce w ith a blen der w ill lighte n the
co lo r o f the sauce, changing it fro m red to orange, which
may n o t be desirable.
Check the balance and seasoning o f th e sauce and
make any necessary a d ju stm e n ts to its fla v o r and con sis­
te n cy by adding s alt, pepper, fre s h herbs, or o th e r in g re ­
d ie n ts as in d ica te d in the recipe. A t th is po in t, th e sauce
is ready to be served. It may be fin is h e d f o r service as
desired (see recipes), o r it may be cooled and stored .

282 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S

 hollandaise sauce
S i n c e t h e l a r g e s t p a r t o f h o l l a n d a i s e is b u t t e r , t h e s u c c e s s o r f a i l u r e o f t h e s a u c e d e p e n d s

N O T O N L Y O N S K I L L F U L L Y C O M B I N I N G EG G Y O L K S , W A T E R , A C I D , A N D B U T T E R I N T O A R I C H , S M O O T H S A U C E ,

B U T A L S O O N T H E Q U A L I T Y O F T H E B U T T E R I T S E L F . H O L L A N D A I S E S A U C E IS P R E P A R E D B Y E M U L S I F Y I N G

M E L T E D OR C L A R I F I E D B U T T E R A N D W A T E R ( i N T H E F O R M O F A N A C I D I C R E D U C T I O N A N d / o R L E M O N J U I C E )

W I T H P A R T I A L L Y C O O K E D EG G Y O L K S .

hollandaise sauce
A num ber o f sim ila r w arm b u tte r em ulsion sauces, as th is group o f sauces is som etim es
known, can be prepared by varying the in g re d ie n ts in the re d u ctio n o r by adding d iffe r ­
e n t fin is h in g and garnishing in g re d ie n ts such as tarrag on . The group includes bearnaise,
choron, and m ousseline sauces. H ollandaise can also be com bined w ith w hipped cream
a n d /o r ve lo u te to prepare a glagage, and used to coa t a dish th a t is then lig h tly browned
under a salam ander o r b ro ile r ju s t b e fo re service.
M e lte d w hole b u tte r or c la rifie d b u tte r may be used in a hollandaise. Some chefs like
m e lte d w hole b u tte r f o r th e rich, cream y fla v o r it im p a rts to a sauce b e st f o r m ost meat,
fish, vegetable, and egg dishes. O thers p re fe r c la rifie d b u tte r, f o r a s t if fe r sauce, o f par­
tic u la r advantage if the sauce is to be used in a glagage. W hate ver th e approach, the b u tte r
m ust be q u ite w arm (about 14 5°F /63°C ) b u t n o t to o h o t f o r th e sauce to come to g e th e r
successfully.
In general, th e ra tio o f egg to b u tte r is 1 egg yo lk to every 2 to 3 o z /5 7 to 8 5 g b u tte r. As
th e volum e o f sauce increases, th e am ount o f b u tte r th a t can be e m u lsifie d w ith 1 egg yolk
also increases. A hollandaise made w ith 20 yolks, fo r instance, can usually to le ra te m ore
than 3 o z /8 5 g b u tte r per yolk. P asteurized egg yolks may be used f o r hollandaise, if de­
sired. However, the m ethod o u tlin e d here cooks th e yolks enough th a t salm onella bacteria,
a m ajor concern w ith eggs, are rendered harm less.
An acidic in g re d ie n t is included in hollandaise bo th f o r fla v o r and f o r the e ffe c t it has
on th e p ro te in in th e egg yolks. The acidic in gre die nt, w hich can be e ith e r a vinegar red uc­
tio n a n d /o r lem on juice, also provides the w a te r necessary to fo rm an em ulsion. W hether
to use a re d u ctio n or lem on ju ice is de te rm in e d by the desired fla v o r o f th e fin is h e d sauce.
A re d u ctio n w ill im p a rt a m ore com plex fla vo r, p a rtic u la rly i f lem on ju ice is also used as a
fin a l seasoning.

One o f the keys to

successfully making
hollandaise sauce is
having all o f the mise
en place prepared. This
fragile sauce, unlike many
other sauces, is prepared
in a single operation.

ch a p te r 13 » SAUCES 283
Q basic formula
Hoilandaise Sauce 2 fl oz/60 mL water, to refresh 12 fl oz/360 mL melted whole
20 fl oz/600 mL and cool the reduction butter or clarified butter

2 fl oz/60 mL reduction made 4 egg yolks or an equivalent Lemon juice, as needed

from white wine, white wine quantity of pasteurized
or cider vinegar, minced egg yolks (3'A oz/99 g) Salt, as needed
shallots, and peppercorns
Hot sauce or cayenne, as needed

method
at-a-glance
x. Make the reduction.
Melted whole b u tte r or clarified butter may be used in a hollan-
2. Add the egg yolks and
daise. Melted whole butter provides a richer, creamier texture, while clarified
blend. butter provides a stiffer, more stable sauce.
3. Place the bowl over
simmering water. The acidic ingredient can be varied when making the sauce, de­
pending on the desired flavor, such as:
4. Whip.
V IN E G A R R E D U C TIO N / LEM O N JUICE
5. Gradually add warm bu tte r
and whip.
A number o f similar warm butter emulsion sauces, as this group of
6. Strain. sauces is sometimes known, can be prepared by varying the ingredients in the
reduction or by adding different finishing and garnishing ingredients:
7. Adjust seasoning and
serve, or hold. LEM O N JUICE / C AYEN N E / M IN C E D H ERBS / FIN E LY D ICED TO M ATO OR C ITR U S

S U P R E M E S / M EAT GLAZE (GLACE DE V IA N D E ), TO M ATO PUREE, ESSENCES, OR

JUICES

Hoilandaise can also be combined with whipped cream and/or veloute

to prepare a glai;age.

STOCKS, SAUCES, AND SOUPS

 hollandaise sauce
1. make the standard reduction
fo r hollandaise. Reduce dry w h ite w ine o r cid e r vinegar,
sha llo ts, and cracked p e pp ercorn s over m od era te d ire c t
heat u n til nearly d ry (au sec) in a sm all, n o n re a ctive sauce
pot. Cool and m o iste n the re d u ctio n w ith a sm all am ount
o f w ater, the n s tra in it in to a m edium s ta in le s s -s te e l bowl.

m eth o d in d etail
2. add the egg yolks to th e re d u ctio n and
w h isk over b a re ly sim m e rin g w a te r u n til th icke n e d and
w arm (14 5°F /63°C ). Be sure th a t th e w a te r is b a rely sim ­
m ering, w ith no v is ib le signs o f surface action, ju s t p le n ty
o f steam ris in g fro m th e surface. As the yolks becom e
warm , th e y w ill increase in volum e. If the yolks seem to be
g e ttin g to o h o t and c o a g u la tin g s lig h tly around th e sides
and b o tto m o f th e bowl, rem ove th e bow l fro m th e heat.
S et th e bow l on a cool surface and w h isk u n til the m ix tu re
has cooled ve ry s lig h tly . Place back on th e w a te r bath and
continue cooking. R eturn to coo kin g over ba rely sim m e r­
ing w ater.
W hen th e yolks have trip le d in volum e, fa ll in ribbons
in to th e bowl, and th e w h isk leaves "tra ils " in them , rem ove
the m fro m th e s im m e rin g w a te r. Do n o t ove rcoo k the
yolks or th e y w ill lose th e ir a b ility to e m u ls ify th e sauce.

c h a p te r 13 » SA UCES 285
 3. stabilize the bowl by s e ttin g it on a
to w e l o r in a p o t th a t has been draped w ith a tow e l, to
keep the bow l fro m slipping . Add th e b u tte r slo w ly in a
th in stream , w h iskin g c o n s ta n tly as it is in co rp o ra te d . The
sauce w ill begin to th icke n as m ore b u tte r is blended in. If
the sauce becom es to o th ic k , add a b it o f w a te r o r lemon
ju ice. This makes it po ssib le to fin is h adding the co rre c t
am ount o f b u tte r w ith o u t b re aking th e sauce.
If th e sauce becom es to o hot, th e egg yolks w ill begin
to scram ble. To c o rre c t th is problem , rem ove th e sauce
fro m th e heat and add a sm all am ount o f cool w ater.
W hisk th e sauce u n til it is sm oo th and, if necessary, stra in
it to rem ove any b its o f overcooked yolk.
Add seasonings such as lem on ju ice, salt, pepper, and
cayenne as desired, when the sauce is nearly finishe d.
Lemon ju ice w ill lighte n the sauce's fla v o r and te x tu re , but
do n o t le t it becom e a d o m in a n t ta s te . Add ju s t enough to
li f t th e fla vo r. If th e sauce is to o th ick, add a little warm
w a te r to regain th e desired lig h t te x tu re .

4. butter is the predominant fla v o r

and arom a o f a good hollandaise sauce. The egg yolks con­
trib u te a g re a t deal o f fla v o r as w ell. The re d u ctio n in g re ­
d ie n ts give the sauce a balanced ta s te , as do the lemon
ju ice and any a d d itio n a l fin is h in g seasonings. H ollandaise
should be a le m on -ye llow co lo r w ith a sa tin y sm oo th te x ­
ture. (A gra in y te x tu re in d ica te s th a t th e egg yolks are
overcooked o r scram bled.) The sauce should have a lu ste r
and n o t appear oily. The co n siste n cy should be lig h t and
pourable.
Serve im m e d ia te ly or hold hollandaise a t or near
14 5°F /63°C fo r no m ore than 2 hours. M o st kitchens have
one or tw o spo ts th a t are the p e rfe c t te m p e ra tu re fo r hold­
ing hollandaise, usually above the stove or ovens o r near
(but not d ire c tly under) heat lamps. Holding hollandaise
presents an unusual challenge, however. The sauce m ust be
held below 15 0°F /66°C to keep the yolks fro m curdling, but
a t th is te m p e ra tu re the sauce hovers ju s t above the danger
zone fo r ba cteria l g row th. The acid fro m the reduction
a n d /o r lemon ju ice help keep some bacteria a t bay, but the
sauce should never be held longer than 2 hours.

286 S T OC K S , S A U C E S , A N D S O U P S
 hoilandaise sauce
Examples of Hoilandaise Derivative Sauces

FL A V O R A D D I T I O N S A N D
N A M E OF D E RIVA TIVE T Y P I C A L L Y S ER V E D W IT H
FIN I S H IN G

BAVAROISE C ra yfish b u tte r, w h ipp ed cream, Fish

and diced c ra y fis h ta il m ea t

BEARNAISE Tarragon re d u ctio n . G arnish w ith G rille d m eats

fre s h ta rra g o n and ch e rvil

CHORON Bearnaise and to m a to G rille d m e a t and p o u ltry

FOYOT/VALOIS Bearnaise and glace de viande G rille d m ea ts and o ffa l

MALTAISE B lood oranges A sparagus

MOUSSELINE W hipped heavy cream B oile d fish , asparagus

PALOISE M in t re d u ctio n and fre s h m in t G rille d m eats

ROYAL Equal p a rts ve lo u te , hoilandaise, Poached w h ite m eats and

and w h ip p e d heavy cream sha llo w -p oach ed fis h

FIXING AND FINISHING HOLLANDAISE SAUCE

F IX IN G A H O L L A N D A IS E liquid ingredients to the sauce gradually to

If the hoilandaise sauce does start to break,
try adding a small amount of water and
whisking until the sauce is smooth before
adding more butter. If that doesn’t work,
cook another egg yolk and 1 tsp/5 mL wa­
ter over simmering water until thickened,
and then gradually whisk the broken hoi­
landaise into the new egg yolk. Note, how­
ever, that a sauce restored in this manner
will not have the same volume as a sauce
that did not have to be rescued, and it will
not hold as well.
F IN IS H IN G A H O L L A N D A IS E
Specific ingredients may be added to pro­
duce a derivative hoilandaise sauce after it
is made. Add glace de viande, tomato puree,
essences or juices, or other semi-liquid or
avoid thinning it too much. If using clari­
fied butter to make the hoilandaise, save
the milk solids and use them to adjust the
consistency of the finished sauce and add
flavor. Including flavoring ingredients may
mean that other seasonings and flavorings
need to be adjusted again.
Some hollandaise-style sauces are
finished with minced herbs. Herbs should
be properly rinsed, dried, and cut into
uniform mince or chiffonade with a very
sharp knife to retain color and flavor.
Finely diced tomato or citrus supremes
may also be added to certain hollandaise-
style sauces; these garnishes should be
properly cut and allowed to drain so that
excess moisture does not thin the sauce.

ch a p te r 13 » S A U C ES 287
 Tr a d itio n a lly , b eu r r e b la n c is pr epa red as an integral part of the s h a l lo w -po aching

p r o c e s s , using the reduction cooking liquid (c u is s o n ). A n o ther c o m m o n practice is to

pr epa re a red uction sepa ra tely and m a k e the b eu r r e b la n c in a l a r g e r batch so it c a n be

U S ED A S A G R A ND S A U C E ON WHICH DE RIV ATIVE S A U C E S A R E BASED. As WITH H O LLAN D AISE , B EU RR E

B L A N C D E R I V A T I V E S A R E P R E P A R E D B Y E I T H E R V A R Y I N G T H E I N G R E D I E N T S IN T H E R E D U C T I O N O R

A L T E R I N G T H E G A R N I S H I N G R E D I E N T S . B E U R R E R O U G E , F O R I N S T A N C E , IS M A D E B Y U S I N G R E D W I N E IN

THE REDUCTION.

beurre blanc
The q u a lity o f th e b u tte r is c ritic a l to the success o f a beurre blanc. U nsalted b u tte r is best
because th e s a lt level can b e tte r be co n tro lle d la te r on. Check th e b u tte r ca re fu lly fo r a
cream y te x tu re and sw e et aroma. Cube the b u tte r and keep it cool.
A standard red uctio n fo r a beurre blanc is made fro m d ry w h ite wine and shallots. (When
prepared as p a rt o f a shallow -poached dish, the cooking liquid becom es the red uctio n used
in the sauce; see page 540.) O ther in gre die nts o fte n used in the red uctio n include vinegar or
citru s juice; chopped herbs including tarragon, basil, chives, or chervil; cracked peppercorns;
and som etim es garlic, ginger, lemongrass, s a ffro n , and o th e r fla v o rin g ingredients.
A sm all am ount o f reduced heavy cream is occasionally added to sta b ilize the emulsion.
To use cream, reduce it by h a lf separately. C a refully sim m er the cream u n til it thicke ns and
has a rich, ivo ry-ye llo w color. The m ore reduced th e cream, th e g re a te r its s ta b iliz in g e f­
fe c t. The m ore sta b le th e sauce, the longer it w ill la st during service. However, th e fla v o r o f
cream w ill overpow er th e fre sh ta s te o f the bu tte r.
Be sure th a t th e pan is o f a nonreactive m aterial. B i-m e ta l pans, such as copper or an­
odized alum inum lined w ith stain le ss steel, are e xce lle nt choices f o r th is sauce.
A w hisk may be used to in co rp o ra te th e b u tte r in to the sauce, b u t many chefs p re fe r
to allow th e m o tio n o f the pan sw irlin g over the burner o r f la tto p to in co rp o ra te the bu tte r.
S train in g is o p tio n a l fo r th is sauce, b u t if you choose to s tra in e ith e r th e re d u ctio n or the
fin is h e d sauce, you w ill need a sieve. Once prepared, th e sauce may be kep t w arm in the
c on tain er used to prepare it, or it may be tra n s fe rre d to a clean bain -m a rie in sert, ceram ic
vessel, or w ide-necked vacuum b o ttle .

288 S T OC K S , S A U C E S , A N D S O U P S
 beurre blanc
Q basic formula
Beurre Blanc 1 lb 8 oz/680 g bu tte r Ground white pepper, as needed
(1 qt/9 6 0 mL)
6 to 8 f l oz/180 to 240 mL Lemon juice, as needed
Reduction made from 8 fl oz/240 heavy cream (optional)
mL dry white wine, 3 to 6 f l oz/90
to 180 mL vinegar, 2 f l oz/60 mL Salt, as needed
minced shallot, and peppercorns

method
at-a-glance
Make the reduction.

2. Whisk in the b u tte r and

cream, if using.
Additional ingredients
expert tips

may be added to the reduction fo r

s
3. Season. flavor:

Strain.
V IN E G A R / C ITR U S JUICE / RED W IN E / CHO PPED HERBS / CRACKED PEPPER ­

Adjust the seasoning and CORNS / GA R LIC / G ING ER / LE M O N G R A SS / S A FFR O N

serve, or hold.
A small amount of reduced heavy cream is occasionally added to
stabilize the sauce. If cream is used, reduce it by half separately. The more the
cream is reduced, the greater its stabilizing effect.

Straining is optional fo rth is sauce, as the reduction ingredients

can be le ft in the sauce fo r texture and garnish.

chapter 13 » S A U C E S 289
 1. prepare the initial reduction
o f wine, vinegar, sha llo ts, and peppercorns, which gives
th e sauce much o f its fla vo r, in a m edium nonreactive
sauce pot. O th er a ro m atics, such as bay leaves, may be
added as re q u ire d by th e recipe. Com bine th e re d u ctio n
in g re d ie n ts and reduce over fa irly brisk heat to a syrupy
con sisten cy (au sec). If p re p a rin g the sauce as an in te g ra l
p a rt o f a shallow -poached dish, sim p ly reduce th e cuisson
(see page 543).
Reduce th e heat to low. G radually in co rp o ra te the
b u tte r w ith a w h isk (as shown here) or by keeping the pan
in c o n s ta n t m otio n. The actio n is s im ila r to th a t used in
fin is h in g a sauce w ith b u tte r (m o n te r au beurre).
If the sauce looks oily ra th e r than creamy or if it ap­
pears to be separating, it has g o tte n to o hot. Im m ediately
pull the pan o f f the heat and set it on a cool surface. C ontin­
ue to add the b u tte r a little a t a tim e, w hisking u n til the m ix­
tu re regains the pro pe r cream y appearance. Then continue
to in corp orate the rem ainder o f the b u tte r over low heat.
If th e b u tte r ta ke s a very long tim e to becom e in c o r­
po ra te d in to th e sauce, increase th e heat under th e pan
ve ry s lig h tly .

m eth o d in d etail
2 . make the necessary fin a l
a d ju stm e n ts to fla v o r and te x tu re by checking th e sea­
soning and strain in g, i f desired. A lte rn a tiv e ly , the red uc­
tio n in g re d ie n ts can be le ft in th e sauce f o r te x tu re and
garnish. If you did n o t s tra in the re d u ctio n earlier, you now
have th e o p tio n o f s tra in in g the sauce. If you do choose to
strain , w o rk q u ickly to keep th e sauce warm . Serve im m e­
d ia te ly o r keep warm .
To prepare a large batch o f beurre blanc and hold it
th ro u g h a service period, use th e same holding techniques
de scrib ed f o r hoilandaise (see page 286). The sauce may
d e te rio ra te over tim e , however, and m ust be m o n ito re d
fo r qu ality.
The fla v o r o f beurre blanc is th a t o f w hole b u tte r w ith
p iq u a n t accents fro m th e re d u ctio n . The fin is h in g a n d /o r
ga rnishin g in g re d ie n ts also in flue nce the flavo r. A good
beurre blanc is cream y in color, although garnishes may
change th e color. The sauce should have a d is tin c t sheen.
The body should be light. If the sauce is to o thin , it p ro b ­
ably does n o t contain enough b u tte r. Conversely, a beurre
blanc th a t is to o th ic k includes to o much b u tte r or cream.
The te x tu re should be fro th y , and th e sauce should not
leave an o ily o r greasy fe e lin g in th e m outh.

290 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S

 purpose of sauces
purpose of sauces
M o s t sauces have m ore than one fu n c tio n in a dish. A sauce th a t adds a c o u n te rp o in t flavor,
fo r exam ple, may also in tro d u ce te x tu ra l and visual appeal. Sauces gene rally serve one or
m ore o f th e fo llo w in g purposes.

INTRODUCE COMPLEMENTARY OR COUNTERPOINT FLAVORS

Sauces th a t are cla ssically paired w ith p a rtic u la r fo o d s illu s tra te th is fu n ctio n . Suprem e
sauce is based on a re d u ctio n o f chicken ve lo u te w ith chicken s to c k and fin ish e d w ith cream.
This ivo ry-co lo re d sauce has a deep chicken fla v o r and ve lv e ty te x tu re . When served w ith
chicken, the color and fla v o r o f th e sauce com p le m e nt the de lica te m ea t and help in te n s ify
its fla vo r. The cream in th e sauce rounds o u t th e fla vo rs.
C h arcu tiere sauce is made w ith m ustard and corn ich ons.T his sauce is pungent and f la ­
vo rfu l. When served w ith pork, the sharpness o f th e sauce in tro d u ce s a c o u n te rp o in t f la ­
vor, c u ttin g th e m e a t’s richness and p ro vid in g a c o n tra s t th a t is pleasing b u t n o t s ta rtlin g
to th e palate. The sauce brings o u t the pork's fla v o r b u t m ig h t overw helm a m ore de lica te
m eat like veal.
A sauce th a t includes a fla v o r co m p le m e n ta ry to a fo o d enhances th e fla v o r o f th a t
fo o d . Tarragon heightens th e m ild sw eetness o f p o u ltry. A pungent green peppercorn
sauce hig h lig h ts th e rich fla v o r o f b e e f by deepening and enriching th e overall ta ste .
G astriques can add depth and com plexity to a finished sauce. G astriques are typica lly
made fro m equal parts sugar and acid and reduced by half over heat fo r use in sauces, soups,
and stews. They can be added either at the beginning o f cooking or the end. If the gastrique is
added at the beginning o f cooking, when m aking a reduction sauce, the appropriate sugar fo r
the dish is added a fte r the arom atics are cooked, and may even be caramelized, if appropri­
ate, before the acid is added and reduced to sec. This is usually follow ed by the wine (if used),
which is also fu lly reduced, then the stock or demi-glaze, and reduced to taste. If the gastrique
is added a t the end o f cooking, as in a stew, it is made separately and added by the tablespoon
until a balance is perceived on the palate. A classic example o f a gastrique is the caram elization
o f sugar which is deglazed w ith orange juice and then reduced before adding duck demi-glaze
in Canard a I’orange. Examples o f sugars used in gastriques are granulated sugar, raw sugar,
honey, or red current jelly. Examples o f acids include vinegars, verjus, or acidic fr u it juice.

ADD MOISTURE OR SUCCULENCE

A sauce can add m o istu re to n a tu ra lly lean fo o d s (e.g., p o u ltry or fish ) o r when the cooking
tech niq ue used te n d s to have a d ryin g e ffe c t, such as g rillin g o r sauteing. G rilled fo o d s are
fre q u e n tly served w ith a w arm b u tte r em ulsion sauce like bearnaise, or a com pound butter,
salsa, or chutney. Beurre blanc is o fte n served w ith shallow -poached lean w h ite fis h to add
a b it o f succulence to the dish.

ADD VISUAL INTEREST

A sauce can enhance a dish's appearance by adding lu s te r and sheen. L ig h tly co a tin g a sau­
te e d m edallion o f lamb w ith a jus lie creates a glossy fin is h on the lamb, g ivin g th e e n tire
p la te m ore eye appeal. Pooling a red pepper coulis beneath a g rille d s w o rd fish ste a k gives
th e dish a degree o f visual e xcite m e n t by adding an e lem e nt o f color.

ADJUSTTEXTURE
M any sauces include a garnish th a t adds te x tu re to the fin is h e d dish. A sauce fin ish e d w ith
to m a to e s and m ushroom s enhances chicken chasseur, w h ile a sm oo th sauce adds a te x ­
tu ra l c o n tra s t to p a n -frie d s o ft-s h e ll crab.

ch a p te r 13 » SAUCES 291
 sauce pairing
C ertain classic sauce co m b in a tio n s endure because the
co m p o sitio n is w e ll balanced in all areas: ta s te , te x tu re ,
and eye appeal. When choosing an a p p ro p ria te sauce, it
should be:
» SUITABLE FOR THE STYLE OF SERVICE. In a ban­
quet setting or in any situation where large quanti­
ties of food must be served rapidly and at the peak
of flavor, choose a sauce th a t may be prepared in
advance and held in large quantities at the cor­
rect tem perature w ithout affe ctin g quality. In an
a la carte kitchen, sauces prepared a la minute are
more appropriate.
» MATCHED TO THE M AIN ING REDIENT’S COOKING
TECHNIQUE. Pair a cooking technique th a t pro­
guidelines for plating sauces
» M AINTAIN CORRECTTEMPERATURE. Check
the tem perature of the sauce, of the food being
sauced, and of the plate. Be sure th a t hot sauces
are extrem ely hot, warm emulsion sauces are as
warm as possible w ithout danger of breaking, and
cold sauces remain cold until they come in contact
with hot foods.
» C O N S ID E R T H E T E X T U R E O F T H E FOOD BEING
SERVED. Pool the sauce beneath the food, spread­
ing it in a layer directly on the plate if the food has
a crisp or otherwise interesting texture. Spoon or
ladle the sauce evenly over the top of the food if it
could b en efit from a little cover or if the sauce has
visual appeal.
292 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
duces flavo rfu l drippings (fond), such as roasting
or sauteing, with a sauce th a t makes use of those
drippings. Similarly, beurre blanc is suitable for
foods th a t have been shallow-poached because the
cooking liquid (cuisson) can become a part of the
sauce.
» APPROPRIATE FOR THE FLAVOR OF THE FOOD
W ITH W HICH IT IS PAIRED. Dover sole is p erfectly
complem ented by a delicate cream sauce. The
same sauce would be overwhelmed by the flavor
o f grilled tuna. Lamb has its own strong flavor th at
can stand up to a sauce flavored with rosemary.
The same sauce would com pletely overpower a
delicate fish.
» SERVE AN APPROPRIATE PORTION OF SAUCE.
There should be enough sauce fo r every bite of the
sauced food but not so much th at the dish looks
swamped. Too much sauce disturbs the balance be­
tw een the item s on the plate and makes it d ifficu lt
fo r the w aiter to carry the food from the kitchen
to the guest's table w ithout at least some of the
sauce running onto the rim, or worse, over the edge
of the plate.
 sauce recipes
Jus de Veau Lie Jus de Volaille Lie: Replace the Brown Veal Stock with
Brown Chicken Stock (page 264) and replace the veal
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
trim w ith an equal amount o f chicken trim.

2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
2 lb /9 0 7 g lean veal trim
1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
2 o z/5 7 g tomato puree
5 q t/4 .8 0 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
Jus de Canard Lie: Replace the Brown Veal Stock w ith Brown
Duck Stock (page 264) and replace the veal trim with an
equal amount o f duck trim .
Jus d'Agneau Lie: Replace the Brown Veal Stock with Brown
Lamb Stock (page 264) and replace the veal trim w ith an
equal amount o f lamb trim.

1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241) Jus de G ibier Lie: Replace the Brown Veal Stock w ith Brown
Game Stock (page 264) and replace the veal trim with an
3 to 4 o z/8 5 to 113 g arrowroot or cornstarch, equal amount o f venison trim .
diluted with cold w ater or stock to make a slurry

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

1 . Heat the oil in a small rondeau over medium heat.

Demi-Glace
Makes 1 qt/960 mL
Add the veal trim and mirepoix and saute, stirring
from time to time, until the veal, onions, and carrots 1 q t/9 6 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
have taken on a rich brown color, 25 to 30 minutes.
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Espagnole Sauce (page 294)
2.. Add the tomato puree and continue to cook over
medium heat until it turns a rusty brown and has a
1 . Combine the stock and espagnole sauce in a heavy
sweet aroma.
medium sauce pot and simmer over low to medium
3 . Add the stock and bring to a simmer. Continue to heat until reduced by half, about 45 minutes. Skim
simmer, skimming as necessary, until a good flavor the sauce frequently as it simmers.
develops, 2 to 3 hours. Add the sachet during the last
2 . Strain the sauce. The sauce is ready to serve now, or
hour of cooking time.
it may be cooled rapidly and refrigerated for later
4 . Return the sauce base to a simmer. Stir the slurry to use.
recombine if necessary and gradually add it to the
sauce base, adding just enough to achieve a good
coating consistency (nappe). The amount of slurry
needed depends on the batch itself and its intended
use. For example, a very rich stock may have signifi­
cant body prior to thickening with the slurry and
will require less.
5 . Taste the sauce and season with salt and pepper.
6 . Strain the sauce. The sauce is ready to serve now, or
it may be cooled rapidly and refrigerated for later use.

chapter 13 » S A U C E S 293
 Espagnoie Sauce
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
3 fl o z/9 0 mL vegetable oil
1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice Standard
Mirepoix (page 243), separate
6 o z/1 7 0 g tomato paste
5 q t/4 .8 0 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263), hot
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g Brown Roux (see page 246)
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241)
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Heat the oil in a rondeau over medium heat and sau­
te the onions until translucent. Add the remaining
mirepoix ingredients and continue to brown, about
10 minutes.
2 . Add the tomato paste and cook until it turns a rusty
brown and has a sweet aroma, 1 to 3 minutes.
3 . Add the stock to deglaze the pan and bring it to a
simmer.
4 . Whisk the roux into the stock. Return to a simmer
and add the sachet. Simmer for about 1 hour, skim­
ming the surface as necessary.
5 . Strain the sauce. Taste the sauce and season with salt
and pepper. The sauce is ready to serve now, or it
may be cooled rapidly and refrigerated for later use.
294 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
Chicken Veloute
Makes 1 gal/3.84 mL
2 f I o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice White Mirepoix (page 243)
1 lb /4 5 4 g Blond Roux (see page 246)
5 q t/4 .8 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
Salt, as needed
Ground white pepper, as needed
1 . Heat the butter or oil in a saucepan over medium
heat. Add the mirepoix and cook, stirring from time
to time, until the onions are limp and have begun to
release their juices into the pan, about 15 minutes.
They may take on a light golden color but should not
be allowed to brown.
2 . Add the roux to the mirepoix and cook until the roux
is very hot, about 2 minutes.
3 . Warm the stock and add to the pan gradually, stir­
ring or whisking to work out any lumps. Bring to a
full boil, then lower the heat to establish a simmer.
Add the sachet and continue to simmer, skimming
as necessary, until a good flavor and consistency de­
velop and the starchy feel and taste of the flour have
cooked away, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
4 . Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve. Strain
a second time through a double thickness of rinsed
cheesecloth, if desired, for the finest texture.
5 . Return the sauce to a simmer. Taste the sauce and
season with salt and pepper. Finish the sauce as
desired.
6 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or it may be cooled
rapidly and refrigerated for later use.
Suprem e Sauce: Add 1 q t/9 6 0 mL heavy cream and 2
lb/907 g sliced mushrooms. Simmer the sauce, stirrin g
and skimming the surface frequently, until it coats the
back o f a spoon. If desired, the sauce may be finished
w ith 6 oz/170 g butter. Season w ith salt and pepper.
Fish Veloute: Replace the Chicken Stock w ith Fish Fumet
(page 26 4).
Shrim p V eloute: Replace the Chicken Stock with Shellfish
Stock (page 264), made w ith shrimp shells.
V egetable V eloute: Replace the Chicken Stock with
Vegetable Stock (page 265).

Bechamel Sauce
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
2 tb s p /3 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
2 o z/5 7 g minced onion
1 lb /4 5 4 g White Roux (see page 246)
5 q t/4 .8 0 L milk
Salt, as needed
Ground white pepper, as needed
Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed (optional)
1 . Heat the butter or oil in a heavy bottomed, medium
sauce pot and add the onions. Saute over low to me­
dium heat, stirring frequently, until the onions are
tender and translucent, 6 to 8 minutes.
2 .. Add the roux to the onions and cook until the roux is
very hot, about 2 minutes.
3 . Warm the milk and add it to the pan gradually,
whisking or stirring to work out any lumps. Bring
the sauce to a full boil, then reduce the heat and sim­
mer on low heat until the sauce is smooth and thick­
ened, about 30 minutes. Stir frequently and skim as
necessary throughout the cooking time.
4 . Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, if using.
Strain through a fine-mesh strainer or a double
thickness of rinsed cheesecloth using the wringing
method (see page 329).
5 . Return the sauce to a simmer on low heat. Taste and
adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Finish the
sauce as desired.
6 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or it may be cooled
rapidly and refrigerated for later use.
Cheddar Cheese Sauce: Add 1 lb /4 5 4 g g ra te d sharp
Cheddar.
M ornay Sauce: Add 8 o z/2 2 7 g each grated Gruyere and
Parmesan. Finish w ith up to 8 oz/227 g whole butter, if
desired.
Cream Sauce: Add 16 fl o z/4 80 mL heated heavy cream to
the finished bechamel and simmer fo r 4 to 5 minutes.
sauce recipes
Tomato Sauce
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
2 flo z /6 0 m L o liv e o il
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice onion
2 tb s p /1 8 g minced or thinly sliced garlic
5 q t/4 .8 0 L cored and chopped
plum tomatoes with liquid
3 o z/8 5 g basil chiffonade
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Heat the oil in a medium nonreactive rondeau or
wide shallow pot over medium-low heat. Add the
onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until they
take on a light golden color, 12 to 15 minutes.
2 . Add the garlic and continue to saute, stirring fre­
quently, until the garlic is soft and fragrant, about 1
minute.
3 . Add the tomatoes. Bring the sauce to a simmer and
cook over low heat, stirring from time to time until a
good sauce-like consistency develops, about 45 min­
utes (exact cooking time depends on the quality of
the tomatoes and their natural moisture content).
4 . Add the basil and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes more.
Taste the sauce and season with salt and pepper if
necessary.
5 . The sauce may be pureed through a food mill fitted
with a coarse disk, broken up with a whisk to make a
rough puree, or left chunky.
6 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or it may be cooled
rapidly and refrigerated for later use.
NOTE: If desired, substitute 9 lb/4.08 kg canned whole plum
tom atoes fo r the fresh tomatoes. With canned tomatoes,
it m aybe necessary to drain o ff some o f the liquid first.
If desired, the canned whole tomatoes can be pureed in a
food mill before preparing the sauce.
chapter 13 » S A U C E S 295
Bolognese Meat
S auce(Ragu
Bolognese)
Makes 1 qt/ 9 6 0 mL
2 o z/5 7 g finely diced pancetta
1 tb s p /1 5 mL extra-virgin olive oil
'/ 2 0 z /1 4 g butter
5 o z/1 4 2 g fine-dice onion
2 o z/5 7 g fine-dice carrot
l '/ 2 o z/4 3 g fine-dice celery
8 o z/2 2 7 g lean ground beef
8 o z/2 2 7 g lean ground pork
I V 2 o z/4 3 g tomato paste
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL white wine
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
8 fI o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream, heated
1 . Combine the pancetta with the oil and butter in a
medium nonreactive stockpot. Cook over medium-
low heat, stirring frequently, until the pancetta is
golden brown and the fat is rendered, about 15
minutes.
2 . Increase the heat to medium-high. Add the onions,
carrots, and celery and cook, stirring frequently,
until the vegetables are softened and the onions are
translucent, 5 to 7 minutes.
3 . Add the beef and pork. Cook, stirring continuously,
until the meat is browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain the
fat if necessary.
4 . Stir in the tomato paste and cook until lightly cara­
melized, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the wine and reduce
the mixture until nearly dry.
5 . Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Add the
stock, bring the sauce to a boil, reduce the heat to
low, and simmer uncovered until the mixture has
reduced and the flavors have concentrated. Add ad­
ditional stock if necessary to avoid scorching.
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D S O U P S
6 . Stir in the cream just prior to service and return the
sauce to a simmer. Do not allow the sauce to boil.
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
7 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or it may be cooled
rapidly and refrigerated for later use.
Tomato Coulis
Makes 1 qt/ 9 6 0 mL
2 tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion
2 tsp / 6 g minced garlic
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL tomato puree
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL red wine
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g peeled, seeded, and
medium-diced plum tomatoes
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
5 basil leaves
1 thyme sprig
1 bay leaf
Tomato water, as needed (optional)
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Heat the oil in a small nonreactive sauce pot and
saute the onions until they are translucent, 6 to 8
minutes.
2 . Add the garlic and saute it briefly until aromatic.
3 . Add the tomato puree and cook until it turns a rusty
brown and has a sweet aroma, 2 to 3 minutes.
4 . Add the red wine, tomatoes, stock, basil, thyme, and
bay leaf. Simmer until a good sauce-like consistency
develops, about 45 minutes.
5 . Remove and discard the herbs. Pass the mixture
through a food mill fitted with the coarse disk. Ad­
just the consistency if necessary with tomato water,
if using, or more stock.
6 . Taste and season with salt and pepper. The sauce is
ready to serve now, or it may be cooled rapidly and
refrigerated for later use.
 sauce recipes
Bearnaise Sauce M in t Sauce (P aloise Sauce): Replace the tarragon stems
w ith m int stems; replace the tarragon vinegar with cider
Makes 36 fl oz/i.o8 L
vinegar; replace the chopped tarragon and chervil with 3
tb s p /9 g chopped fresh m int leaves.
B f I o z/9 0 mL tarragon vinegar
Choron Sauce: S tir V/ 2 oz/43 g cooked tom ato puree into
3 tarragon stems, chopped
the finished sauce. Adjust the sauce’s consistency with
1 tsp / 2 g cracked black peppercorns w ater or lemon juice as needed.

3 tb s p /4 5 mL dry white wine

3 fl o z/9 0 mL water

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL egg yolks (about 8 ),

fresh or pasteurized

24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL melted whole or clarified butter, warm

3 tb sp /9 g chopped fresh tarragon

V / 2 tb sp /4 .5 0 g chopped fresh chervil

Salt, as needed

1 . Combine the peppercorns, tarragon stems, and

vinegar in a small nonreactive pan. Reduce over
medium heat until nearly dry.
2 . Add the wine and water to the reduction and strain
it into a medium stainless-steel bowl.
3 . Whisk the egg yolks together with the reduction and
place them over simmering water. Cook, whisking
constantly, until the eggs are thickened and form
ribbons when they fall from the whisk.
4 . Gradually add the butter in a thin stream, whisking
constantly, until all the butter is added and the sauce
is thickened.
5 . Add the chopped tarragon and chervil and season
with salt. The sauce is ready to serve now. It may be Choron Sauce
held warm for up to 2 hours.

yudhacookbook.com

chapter 13 » SA UCES 297

Hollandaise Sauce Beurre Blanc
Makes 28 fl 0Z/840 mL Makes 1 qt/960 mL

2 tb sp /1 8 g chopped shallot V A o z/3 5 g minced shallot

1 tsp / 2 g cracked black peppercorns 6 to 8 black peppercorns

3 f I o z/9 0 mL cider or white wine vinegar 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL dry white wine

3 f I o z/9 0 mL water 2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice

6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL egg yolks (about 6 ), 3 fl o z/9 0 mL cider or white wine vinegar

fresh or pasteurized
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream, reduced by half (optional)
18 f I o z/5 4 0 mL melted whole or clarified butter, warm
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g cubed butter, chilled
1 tb sp /1 5 mL lemon juice
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground white pepper, as needed
Ground white pepper, as needed
1 tb sp /9 g grated lemon zest (optional)
Hot sauce or cayenne, as needed (optional)

1 . Combine the shallots, peppercorns, wine, lemon

1 . Combine the shallots, peppercorns, and vinegar in
a small nonreactive saucepan and reduce over me­
dium heat until nearly dry.
2 . Add the water to the reduction and strain it into a
stainless-steel bowl.
3 . Whisk the egg yolks together with the reduction and
place them over simmering water. Cook, whisking
constantly, until the eggs are thickened and form
ribbons when they fall from the whisk.
4 . Gradually add the butter in a thin stream, whisking
constantly, until all the butter is added and the sauce
is thickened.
5 . Taste the sauce and add the lemon juice, salt, pep­
per, and hot sauce or cayenne, if desired. The sauce
is ready to serve now. It may be held warm for up to
2 hours.
juice, and vinegar in a nonreactive saucepan. Reduce
over medium-high heat until nearly dry.
2.. Add the reduced heavy cream, if using, and simmer
over low heat for 2 to 3 minutes to reduce slightly.
3 . Add the butter a few pieces at a time, whisking con­
stantly to blend the butter into the reduction. The
heat should be quite low as you work. Continue add­
ing the butter until the full amount has been
incorporated.
4 . Taste and season with salt and pepper. Finish the
sauce by adding the lemon zest, if using. The sauce
may be strained, if desired.
5 . The sauce is ready to serve now. It may be held warm
for up to 2 hours.

M ousseline Sauce: Whip 5 f l oz/150 mL heavy cream to

medium peaks and fo ld it into the batch o f hollandaise,
or fo ld whipped cream into individual portions at the
tim e o f service.

M a lta ise Sauce: Add 2 fl oz/6 0 mL blood orange juice to the

reduction, or finish the hollandaise w ith 2 ts p / 6 gg rated
orjulienned blood orange zest and V / 2 f\ oz/45 mL blood
orangejuice.

STOCKS. SA UCES . A N D SO UPS


Red Pepper Coulis
Makes 1 qt/960 mL
2 tb s p /3 0 m L o liv e o il
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g peeled, seeded, deribbed,
and chopped red peppers
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL dry white wine
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
2 to 3 fl o z/6 0 to 90 mL heavy cream (optional)
1 . Heat the oil over medium heat in a small sauce pot
and sweat the shallots until they are tender, about 2
minutes. Add the peppers and sweat until they are
very tender, about 12 minutes. Season with salt and
pepper.
2 . Deglaze the pan with the wine and let the wine re­
duce until nearly cooked away.
3 . Add the stock and simmer until reduced by half.
4 . Puree the sauce using a food mill for a coarse con­
sistency or, in a food processor or blender for a
smoother consistency. Add the heavy cream, if using,
to the pureed sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning with
salt and pepper.
5 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or it may be cooled
rapidly and refrigerated for later use.
sauce recipes
Pesto
Makes about 1 qt/960 mL
8 o z/2 2 7 g basil leaves
4 o z/1 1 3 g toasted pine nuts
6 garlic cloves, mashed to a paste
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL olive oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g grated Parmesan
Salt, as needed
1 . Rinse the basil leaves well, dry thoroughly, and
coarsely chop. Transfer them to a food processor or
use a mortar and pestle. Grind the basil, pine nuts,
garlic, and salt together, adding the oil gradually to
form a thick paste.
2 . Stir in the cheese and add salt as needed. The sauce
is ready to use now, or it may be refrigerated for
later use.
NOTE: Blanching the basil in boiling salted water will help
prevent the pesto from oxidizing during storage and
make the color more pronounced.
c h a p te r 13 » SA UCES 299
 MaTtre d'Hotel B utter Tarragon B u tte r: Replace the parsley w ith an equal amount
o f minced tarragon.
Makes 1 lb/454 g
P im iento B u tte r: Replace the parsley w ith an equal amount
1 lb /4 5 4 g butter, room temperature o f minced pimiento.

2 o z/5 7 g chopped parsley Green Onion B u tte r: Add 1 tb sp /1 5 mL soy sauce, V2 ts p /

1.5 g minced garlic, and replace the parsley with an equal
V / 2 tb sp /22.50 mL lemon juice
amount o f minced green onions.
Salt, as needed
D ill B u tte r: Replace the parsley w ith an equal amount of
Ground black pepper, as needed minced dill.

Sun-D ried Tom ato and Oregano B u tte r: Add 1 tbsp /3

1 . Work the butter by hand or with an electric mixer g minced oregano and 1 o z /2 8 g minced sun-dried
fitted with the paddle attachment until it is soft. Add tomatoes.
the remaining ingredients and blend well. Taste and Basil B u tte r: Replace the parsley w ith an equal amount of
adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. minced basil.

2 . The compound butter is ready to use, or it may be

rolled into a log or piped into shapes and chilled for
later use.

Rolling MaTtre d'Hotel B u tte r Tarragon B utter

300 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S

A well-prepared soup always makes a memorable impression. Soups offer
a full array of flavoring ingredients and garnishing opportunities. Soups
also allow the chef to use trimmings and leftovers creatively, an important
profit-making consideration for any foodservice establishment.
 S to cks A N D B R O T H S A R E S I M I L A R IN T E C H N I Q U E A N D C O O K I N G T I M E . M E A T , P O U L T R Y , F I S H , T R I M M I N G S ,

OR V E G E T A B L E S , W H I C H M A Y BE R O A S T E D OR S E A R E D , A R E S L O W L Y S I M M E R E D A L O N G WI TH A R O M A T I C

V E G E T A B L E S , S P IC E S , A N D H E R B S TO P R O D U C E A C L E A R A N D F L A V O R F U L L IQ UI D WI T H S O M E B O D Y . T h E

M A J O R D I S T I N C T I O N B E T W E E N B R O T H S A N D S T O C K S IS T H A T B R O T H S C A N B E S E R V E D A S IS, W H E R E A S

S T O C K S A R E U S E D IN T H E P R O D U C T I O N O F O T H E R D I S H E S .

broth
M e a t and p o u ltry b ro th s have a m ore pronounced fla v o r than th e ir s to ck c o u n te rp a rts be­
cause th e y are based on m ea t ra th e r than bones. Fish and veg etab le b ro th s are made fro m
the same basic in g re d ie n ts as fis h and veg etab le stocks, so th e d iffe re n c e betw een them
is re a lly one o f inte nd ed end use and w o rd choice.
If a broth's cooking te m p e ra tu re is ca re fu lly reg ulated so th a t it is never m ore than an
even, ge n tle simm er, and if the surface is skim m ed as necessary, a b ro th can be as clear, fu ll
bodied, and rich as any consom m e, w ith o u t c la rific a tio n .
Choose m eat cuts fro m more exercised parts o f the animal because the more fu lly devel­
oped the muscle, the m ore pronounced the flavor. The same is tru e o f p o u ltry broths, fo r which
stew ing hens or m ore m ature game birds are the best choice fo r deep flavor. Frequently, the
m eat or p o u ltry used to prepare a b ro th can w ork fo r o th e r preparations if they are cooked
only un til fu lly ten der b ut no longer. The m eat can be julienned or diced to use as a garnish.
It is be st to use lean w h ite -fle s h e d fish , such as sole, flou nd er, halibut, or cod. Richer,
o ilie r typ e s o f fish, such as b lu e fish or m ackerel, te n d to lose th e ir fla v o r when th e ir d e li­
cate oils are sub je cte d to high te m p e ra tu re s fo r even s h o rt periods. S h e llfish and c ru s ta ­
ceans cooked in th e shell in a sm all am ount o f liquid produce exce lle nt bro th . It m ust then
be stra in e d ve ry c a re fu lly to rem ove all tra ce s o f g r it or sand.
For veg etab le bro th s, com bine w holesom e trim fro m several vegetables to make a
bro th , o r fo llo w a sp e c ific recipe. C onsider th e stre n g th o f th e vegetable's fla v o r and how
th a t m ig h t a ffe c t th e bro th 's balance. Cabbage and o th e r fa m ily m em bers such as cauli­
flo w e r can becom e overw h elm ingly strong.
Many bro th s begin w ith th e sim p le s t o f all liquids: cool, fre s h w ater. Using a stock, re ­
m ouillage, or b ro th as th e base liquid w ill produce w h a t is so m e tim es re fe rre d to as a "dou­
ble broth." S elect a d d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts to add flavo r, aroma, and co lo r to a bro th . A ro m a tic
herb and veg etab le com b in ation s such as m ire poix, sachet d'epices, o r bouquet garni are
tra d itio n a l. C o ntem p orary bro th s may call fo r such in g re d ie n ts as dried tom ato es, lem on-
grass, w ild m ushroom s, or ging er to give th e b ro th a unique character.
G arnishing b ro th s adds visual and te x tu ra l in te re s t. Sim ple garnishes, such as a fin e
brunoise o f veg etab le s o r ch e rvil pluches, are tra d itio n a l. O th er choices include diced or
ju lie nn ed m eats, pieces o f fis h o r she llfish , croutons, dum plings, quenelles, and w ontons,
noodles, and rice.
S e le ct a p o t large enough to accom m odate the b ro th as it cooks. There should be s u f­
fic ie n t room a t th e to p o f th e p o t to allow some expansion du rin g cooking, as w e ll as to
make it easy to skim away any im p u ritie s fro m th e surface. The p o t should be ta ll and nar­
row ra th e r than s h o rt and wide. If available, se le ct a p o t w ith a s p ig o t to make it easier to
decant th e bro th . You w ill also need skim m ers and ladles, storag e or holding containers,
strain ers, ta s tin g spoons and cups, and a kitche n fo rk to rem ove any large pieces o f meat.

302 STOCKS, S A U C ES , AND SO U PS


D basic formula
Meat or Poultry Broth
Using Water
(1 gal/3.84 L)
10 lb/4.54 kg meat or
poultry, including bones
5 qt /4.80 L cool liquid
1 lb/454 g Standard
Mirepoix (page 243)
1 Standard Sachet
d'Epices (page 241)
method
at-a-glance
1. Combine the meat and
liquid.
2. Bring to a simmer.
3. Add the m irepoix and/or
bouquet garni.
4. Simmer and skim.
5. Strain.
6. Coot and store, or finish
and garnish fo r service.
broth
Meat or Poultry Broth Fish or Shellfish Broth
Using Stock (1 gal/3.84 L)
(1 gal/3.84 L]
10 to 12 lb/4.54 to 5.44 kg fish or
3 lb/1.36 kg meat or poultry shellfish, including bones or shells
5 qt/4.80 L stock 5 q t/4.80 L cool liquid
1 lb/454 g Standard 1 lb/454 g White Mirepoix
Mirepoix (page 243) (page 243; may include
mushroom trimmings)
1 Standard Sachet
d’Epices (page 241) 1 Standard Sachet d'Epices and/or
Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241)
expert tips
9
To intensify the flavor o f a broth, the amount of meat or
vegetable may be increased. The meat may also be cooked in stock for a stron­
ger, richer flavor. To further enhance the flavor and color of a broth, brown the
major flavoring ingredients (meat and/or vegetables) before adding the liquid.
Additional ingredients may be added to develop more flavor.
Add these ingredients at the appropriate time. Add some early in the cooking
process to infuse flavor. Others may be added later on so that they retain their
individual flavor and/or texture:
SA C H ET D 'E P IC ES OR B O U Q U E T G A R N I / O IG N O N BRULE / FRESH OR D RIED
HERBS / A R O M A T IC VEG ETA B LE S
Garnishing abroth is yet another way to introduce and influence fla­
vor. Garnishing ingredients cut to the appropriate size and desired shape are
added at the very end of the cooking process:
VEG ETAB LE S / MEAT, POULTRY, OR F IS H / FRESH HERBS / COOKED PASTA /
COOKED G R A IN S SUCH AS RICE OR B A R LE Y
chapter 14 » S O U P S 303
 1. combine major flavoring
in g re d ie n ts, a p p ro p ria te seasonings, and cool liquid to
cover th e in g re d ie n ts co m p le te ly. G en tly b rin g the liquid
to a sim m er, skim m in g as necessary. G entle sim m e ring ex­
tra c ts m axim um fla v o r and e sta blishes a n a tural c la rific a ­
tio n process th a t encourages im p u ritie s (fa t and scum) to
c o lle c t on th e surface, w here th e y can be skim m ed away.
The process o f blanching m ea t o r p o u ltry b e fo re m aking a
b ro th w ill also help to rem ove im p u ritie s .
Avoid a hard b o il when coo kin g b ro th s, w hich could
cook th e fla v o r o u t o f th e in g re d ie n ts. V ig oro us b o ilin g
a ctio n also causes f a t and im p u ritie s to be m ixed back in,
th e re b y clo ud ing th e bro th .

2. add the remaining ingredients

and a ro m a tics a t a p p ro p ria te in te rva ls. Sachet d'epices
and b o uq ue t ga rni in g re d ie n ts release th e ir fla v o rs qu ickly
and are added n e a rth e end o f c oo kin g tim e . R ather than
in te n s ify in g th e fla vo r, con tinu ed cooking could a ctu a lly
cook away th e de lica te, v o la tile oils th a t hold th e ir fla v o r
essence. S im m er u n til flavo r, color, and body are fu lly de­
veloped. Since th e cooking tim e s fo r b ro th s va ry w idely,
co n su lt s p e c ific recipes f o r guidance.
Taste th e b ro th fro m tim e to tim e as i t sim m ers to be
sure th a t it is de veloping p ro p e rly, and make c o rre ctio n s
if necessary. For exam ple, if a clove in th e sachet d'epices
th re a te n s to overw helm th e bro th , rem ove it. If th e re is a
lack o f rich, ro a ste d fla v o rs , add an oignon brute (see page
24 0). Final seasoning and fla v o r a d ju stm e nts, however, are
g e ne rally done a fte r th e m ajor fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts have
given up th e ir m axim um fla vo r. M e a t and p o u ltry should be
cooked u n til f o r k tender. Fish, sh e llfish , and crustaceans
should be sim m ered b rie fly u n til ju s t cooked through.
V egetables should be e x tre m e ly s o ft b u t n o t cooked in to
shreds.

304 STOCKS, SAUCE'S, A N D SO U P S

 broth
3. ladle, don t pour, th e b ro th o u t o f the
pot. To keep th e soup clear, f ir s t li f t th e m eat or chicken
and veg etab le s fro m th e b ro th b e fo re stra in in g . Line a
sieve or colan der w ith rinsed doubled cheesecloth. A
fin e -m e sh sieve or a pa pe r f ilt e r can also be used. S kim as
much f a t fro m th e surface as po ssib le b e fo re g a rnishin g
and serving or b e fo re ra p id ly co o lin g and sto rin g .
B ring th e b ro th to service te m p e ra tu re and garnish as
desired. If th e b ro th has been chilled, l i f t away any con­
gealed fa t and re tu rn th e b ro th to a simmer. Prepare and
heat th e garnish.

4. a good broth is clear, golden in color,

rich ta s tin g , and a ro m a tic, w ith good fla v o r and no tice a b le
body. The se le ctio n o f fre sh , h ig h -q u a lity in g re d ie n ts, th e
rig h t p ro p o rtio n o f fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts to liquid, c a re fu l
te m p e ra tu re re g u la tio n , th o ro u g h skim m ing, adequate
coo kin g tim e , and a d ju stm e n ts to th e b ro th 's seasoning
th ro u g h o u t coo kin g tim e re s u lt in th e high est q u a lity
b ro th possible. P rop er handling o f th e b ro th du rin g s to r ­
age and re h e a tin g assures th a t it m aintains its q u a lity.
B roth s ty p ic a lly have a fe w d ro p le ts o f fa t on th e surface,
a sign o f a rich, fu ll-fla v o re d soup.

c h a p te r 14 » SO U P S 305
 A CONSOMME IS A P E R F E C T L Y CLEAR BROTH. C O N S O M M E S ARE E X C E P T IO N A L L Y RICH IN FLAVOR

A N D A R E C R Y S T A L C L E A R , A N E F F E C T A C H I E V E D B Y C O M B I N I N G A H I G H - Q U A L I T Y S T O C K OR B R O T H

W IT H A C L A R IF IC A T IO N M IX T U R E . To ASSURE A H IG H -Q U A L IT Y CO NSO M M E, THE CHEF M UST CHOOSE

I N G R E D I E N T S C A R E F U L L Y , K E E P T H E C L A R I F I C A T I O N M I X T U R E V E R Y C O L D U N T I L I T IS T I M E TO C O O K

T H E C O N S O M M E , A N D M O N IT O R T H E T E M P E R A T U R E O F T H E C O N S O M M E AS IT C O O K S AT A S L O W S I M M E R .

O n c e t h e c o n s o m m e h a s d e v e l o p e d a r ic h f l a v o r a n d c o l o r , it m u s t be c a r e f u l l y s t r a in e d

A N D D E G R E A S E D TO P R O D U C E A C R Y S T A L - C L E A R S O U P , W I T H N O T R A C E S O F FAT, A N D A N I N T E N S E A N D

S A T IS FY IN G FLAVOR.

consomme
S to ck fo r consom m e should be o f high q u a lity and very fre sh . To check fo r qu ality, bring a
sm all am ount to a boil, then sm ell and ta s te it. If th e re is any d o u b t a b o u t the q u a lity o f the
stock, use a fre s h e r batch o r prepare new stock.
The c la rific a tio n is a com b in ation o f lean ground m eat, egg w h ites, m irepoix, herbs and
spices, and to m a to or o th e r acidic ingre die nts. A ll o f the se in g re d ie n ts serve m u ltip le fu n c ­
tio n s in pre p a rin g a w ell-balanced consomme. This m ixtu re o f in g re d ie n ts produces a crys-
ta l-c le a r fla v o rfu l soup by rem oving im p u ritie s fro m the sto c k and b o ls te rin g its flavor.
W henever possible, grind the m eat along w ith the m ire p o ix vegetables fo r the be st fla v o r
and q u a lity in th e fin is h e d consom m e. W heth er o r n o t you grind th e m eat in-house, be sure
to keep it and th e egg w h ite s re frig e ra te d so th a t the y rem ain w holesom e and fla v o rfu l.
M ire p o ix veg etab le s should be cu t sm all or ground so th a t th e y becom e p a rt o f th e ra ft
and release th e ir fla v o rs quickly. A v a rie ty o f a ro m atic vegetables such as onions, carro ts,
celery, ga rlic, leeks, parsnips, and m ushroom s are typ ica l. M ix the c la rific a tio n in gre die nts
(except th e acid) th o ro u g h ly and if tim e p e rm its, chill fo r several hours or overnight. The
acidic in gre die nt, such as to m a to e s, is added ju s t b e fo re the s to ck is blended in to th e c la ri­
fic a tio n to help th e r a ft fo rm p ro pe rly, as w e ll as fo r its flavo r. Lemon ju ice o r vinegar is an
acidic o p tio n fo r a fis h o r veg etab le consom m e. An oignon brule may also be included to
give a d d itio n a l fla v o r and color. O th er fla v o rin g ite m s are used as necessary to achieve a
special flavo r.
Herbs and spices are also included in th e c la rific a tio n m ixtu re : sprigs o r stem s o f t a r ­
ragon, parsley, chervil, dill, thym e, or o th e r fre sh herbs; cloves, bay leaves, peppercorns,
ju n ip e r berries, o r s ta r anise; and ginger and lem ongrass.
The eq uipm en t needs f o r m aking consom m es are the same as tho se described ea rlie r
fo r broths, w ith the fo llo w in g special considerations: The p o t should have a heavy b o tto m
to help pre ven t the c la rific a tio n in gre die nts fro m s tic k in g and scorching, and it should be
ta lle r than it is wide. The even heat o f steam k e ttle s and fla tto p ranges, if available, are
ideal f o r m aking consom me.

306 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S


B basic formula
Consomme
(1 g a l / 3 . 8 4 L)
CLARIFICATION INGREDIENTS
1 lb/454 g Standard Mirepoix
(page 243), minced or ground
3 lb/1.36 kg lean ground
meat, poultry, or fish
12 egg whites
method
at-a-glance
1. Combine m ire po ix, meat,
and egg w hites. Add acid
and s a lt to th e c la rific a tio n .
2. Sim m er the sto ck and
c la rific a tio n , s tirrin g
fre q u e n tly .
3. S top s tirrin g a t 120° to
1 2 5 °F /4 9 ° to 52°C and
allow the r a ft to fo rm .
4. Simmer, b astin g th e r a ft
fre q u e n tly . Add o ptio na l
a d d itio n a l ing re d ie nts, if
desired.
5. S train.
6. Degrease.
7. Cool and sto re , or fin is h
and garnish fo r service.
consom m e
10 oz/284 g chopped tomatoes Note: For fish consomme,
lemon juice, vinegar, a n d /o r
2 tbsp/ 2 0 g salt wine may be substituted fo r
the tom atoes to prevent dark
6 qt/5.76 L cool liquid coloration. The amounts will
(stock or broth) vary depending on the acid level
o f the individual ingredient.
Seasonings and flavorings, such as
salt and pepper, Standard Sachet
d'Epices (page 241), oignon brule
(see page 240), or others as desired
expert tips
a
To enhance the flavor and color o f a consomme,
double the amount of ground meat in the recipe. This is known as a double
consomme.
Additional ingredients may be added to develop more flavor.
Add these ingredients at the appropriate time:
SA CH ET D 'EP IC E S OR B O U Q U ET G A R N I / O IG N O N BRClLE / FRESH OR DRIED
H ERBS / A R O M A T IC VEGETAB LES
Use d iffe re n t acids in a consomme to produce a desired flavor or
color:
TO M ATO / LEM O N JUICE / D R Y W IN E / V IN E G A R
Garnishing consomme will introduce and influence flavor. Gar­
nishing ingredients cut to the appropriate size and desired shape are added at
the very end of the cooking process:
VEG ETAB LES / C USTARD / M E A T / P O U LTRY
c h a p te r 14 » SO U P S 307
 1. clarification ingredients should
be ve ry cold (below 40 °F /4 °C ) a t th e s ta r t o f cooking
tim e . Som e che fs p re fe r to g rin d th e c la rific a tio n m ix tu re
th e day b e fo re m aking th e consom m e to allow it p le n ty
o f tim e to chill. Add the acid (such as to m a to e s or lem on
ju ice ) ju s t b e fo re c o o k in g th e consom m e. Add enough cold
sto c k to loosen th e c la rific a tio n . For large q u a n titie s, th e
re s t o f th e s to c k can be b ro u g h t to a sim m er s e p a ra te ly
to sh o rte n th e overall coo kin g tim e o f th e consom me.

method in detail
2. bring to a simmer, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly ,
u n til th e r a ft begins to fo rm . Continue to s tir th e consom ­
me so th a t th e c la rific a tio n in g re d ie n ts do n o t s tic k to the
p o t o r scorch. As it heats up, the c la rific a tio n in g re d ie n ts
begin to tu rn gray and coalesce in to a large s o ft mass,
w hich is known as a ra ft. This occurs a t a te m p e ra tu re
range o f a p p ro x im a te ly 14 0° to 1 4 5 °F /6 0 ° to 63°C. S top
s tirrin g th e consom m e a t th is te m p e ra tu re and adjust
th e heat u n til only a fe w sm all bubbles break the surface.
If th e re is a s tro n g sim m e rin g o r b o ilin g a ction, th e r a ft
m ig h t break a p a rt b e fo re it has s u ffic ie n tly cleared and
fla v o re d th e consom m e. On the o th e r hand, if th e heat is
to o low, im p u ritie s may n o t rise fro m th e b o tto m o f the
p o t to th e to p , w here th e y can be tra p p e d by th e ra ft. Add
an oignon brule if desired.

308 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S

 consom m e
3. simmer without stirring once the
c la rifica tio n ingredients cook to g e th e r in to a ra ft. Basting
assures th a t the fu lle s t fla v o r w ill develop and prevents the
ra ft fro m drying out and p o te n tia lly breaking. As the con­
somme continues to simmer, the m eat and eggs w ill naturally
coagulate, fo rm in g the ra ft. The sim m ering action o f the
soup carries im p u ritie s fro m the b o tto m o f the p o t to the
raft, where they are trapped. This action cla rifie s the soup.
The sim m e rin g a ctio n may also cause a sm all hole to
fo rm in th e ra ft. If a sm all opening does n o t fo rm on its
own, use a spoon o r ladle to g e n tly poke th ro u g h th e ra ft
so th a t you can ta s te th e consom m e as it develops and
make any necessary seasoning a d ju stm e n ts. The hole
should be ju s t large enough to accom m odate a sm all ladle.
Sim m er g e n tly u n til the flavo r, color, and body are fu lly
developed. Recipes usually provide a cooking guideline
(generally 1 to V / 2 hours)— long enough to f o r t if y the soup's
fla v o r and c la rify it properly. Baste the ra ft fre q u e n tly as
the consomme sim mers. When the r a ft begins to sink s lig h t­
ly, assuming th a t th is happens a fte r a reasonable cooking
tim e ra th e r than because the heat wasn't adjusted properly,
the consomme is p ro p e rly sim m ered. Pour a sm all am ount
in to a soup bowl or plate to assess its c la rity visually.
S tra in th e consom m e using a fin e -m e sh sieve, a con i­
cal sieve lined w ith a c o ffe e filte r , o r c a re fu lly rinsed
cheesecloth. Avoid b re aking up th e r a ft as you s tra in the
consom m e and d o n 't pour th e consom m e and r a ft in to a
strain er, because th is w ill release im p u ritie s . A d ju s t sea­
soning as necessary.

4. carefully degrease th e consom m e. B lo t

th e consom m e w ith a b so rb e n t paper o r re frig e ra te it. Any
fa t w ill congeal and be easy to l i f t away b e fo re re h e a t­
ing. It should be c o m p le te ly fa t fre e . The consom m e is
now ready f o r g a rnishin g and service o r to be cooled and
stored .
A consom m e o f e x c e lle n t q u a lity has a w ell-balanced,
rich fla v o r re fle c tin g th e m ajor in g re d ie n t, and a d isce rn ­
ib le body. It is p e rfe c tly clear, c o m p le te ly f a t fre e , and
aro m atic. The s e le c tio n o f fre sh , h ig h -q u a lity in gre die nts,
very cold c la rific a tio n in g re d ie n ts, th e p ro p e r ra tio o f
fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts and a ro m a tics to liquid, adequate
cooking tim e , c a re fu l te m p e ra tu re re g u la tio n , c a re fu l
skim m ing, and seasoning a d ju stm e n ts th ro u g h o u t co o k­
ing tim e re s u lt in th e high est q u a lity consom m e. C areful
handling o f th e consom m e du rin g sto ra g e and re h e a tin g
assures th a t it m aintains its q u a lity.

c h a p te r 14 » SO UPS 309
 GARNISHING CONSOMME

Hundreds of classically codified garnishes it is important that it be as well prepared

for consommes exist, ranging from such
humble items as neatly diced root veg-
etables to the esoteric edible gold leaf
featured in a recipe found in Escoffier’s Le
Guide Culinaire. They draw on influences
as diverse as Asian cuisines, Caribbean
dishes, and Italian provincial cooking
styles. No matter what the garnish may be,
as the consomme.
Vegetable cuts should be neat and pre-
cise. Royales should be delicately set, soft,
and supple in the mouth. The seasoning
selected for the garnish should enhance
the flavor of the consomme, not distract
from it.

NAME CLASSIC COMPOSITION

CONSOMME A LA Consom m e garnished w ith sm all cubes o f c a rro t,

BRUNOISE tu rn ip , celery, leek, and ch e rvil

CONSOMME CELESTINE Consom m e lig h tly th icke n e d w ith ta p io c a and

garnished w ith ju lie n n e d crepes m ixed w ith chopped
t r u ffle s o r herbs

CONSOMME JULIENNE Consom m e ga rnished w ith ju lie n n e d c a rro ts , leeks,

tu rn ip s , celery, and cabbage, plus green peas and a
c h iffo n a d e o f s o rre l and c h e rvil

CONSOMME C onsom m e ga rnished w ith balls o f c a rro t and

PRINTANIER tu rn ip s , peas, and ch e rvil

CONSOMME ROYALE Chicken consom m e garnished w ith cubes, rounds, or

lozenges o f Royale (custard )

CONSOMME AU Game consom m e garnished w ith ju lie n n e d

CHASSEUR m ushroom s and gam e qu en elles o r p ro fite ro le s
s tu ffe d w ith gam e puree

CONSOMME C hicken consom m e lig h tly th icke n e d w ith ta p io ca

DIPLOMATE and garnished w ith ju lie n n e d tr u ffle s and ron de lle s
o f chicken fo rc e m e a t blended w ith c ra y fis h b u tte r

CONSOMME GRIM ALDI Consom m e c la rifie d w ith fre s h to m a to puree;

garnished w ith diced Royale (cu sta rd ) and ju lie n n e d
ce le ry

CONSOMME MIKADO Chicken consom m e w ith to m a to , garnished w ith

diced to m a to and chicken

310 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S

 t r
rD
CD
H earty broths are based on c lea r broths or stock a n d h ave m o re fla v o r ,t e x t u r e ,an d body |-^

T H A N C L E A R B R O T H S . V E G E T A B L E S A R E C U T I N T O U N I F O R M S I Z E A N D S I M M E R E D IN T H E S O U P U N T I L

t e n d e r . M eats , g r a in s , and pasta are fr e q u e n t ly included to add b o d y . Th ese so u ps lack

THE CLARITY of BROTH OR C O N S O M M E B E C A U S E OF TH E A D D IT IO N A L I NGR ED IEN TS C O O K E D DIRE CTL Y

IN T H E B R O T H . H E A R T Y B R O T H S M A Y A L S O B E M A D E F R O M A S I N G L E V E G E T A B L E ( e .G., O N I O N S O U p ).

o
t r

hearty broths in

H e a rty b ro th s include vegetables chosen bo th f o r th e ir own fla v o rs and f o r th e ir a ro m atic

q u a litie s. Prepare each veg etab le by trim m in g , peeling, and c u ttin g it in to neat and even-
size pieces so th a t th e y cook u n ifo rm ly and have an a ttra c tiv e appearance.
Some h e a rty bro th s also include m eat, p o u ltry , o r fish . Trim and cu t m eat, p o u ltry, or
fis h to s u it th e s ty le o f soup you are preparing. A fte r cooking in th e soup, the se in gre die nts
are o fte n diced o r julie nn ed and re tu rn e d to the soup ju s t b e fo re it is finishe d.
O th er in g re d ie n ts m ig h t include beans, w hole grains, o r pasta. For a re la tiv e ly clear
soup, cook the se sta rch y in g re d ie n ts se p a ra te ly and add the m to th e soup as a garnish. A
m ore ru s tic approach calls f o r these in g re d ie n ts to be cooked in th e b ro th as p a rt o f the
soup-m aking process. Such soups ten d to have m ore body and are som e tim es re fe rre d to
as h e a rty v eg etab le soups.
Clear bro th s, g o o d -q u a lity stocks, w ater, veg etab le essences, o r ju ices are all used as
th e liquid base f o r v eg etab le soups. Be sure to ta s te th e liquid and add seasonings as nec­
essary fro m th e s ta r t o f cooking tim e up to and includ in g ju s t b e fo re service. R efer to spe­
c ific recipes fo r in g re d ie n t suggestions. B ring the liquid to a sim m er over low heat while
p re pa ring th e o th e r ingre die nts, along w ith seasonings and a ro m a tics as needed. This w ill
im prove th e fla v o r o f the fin ish e d b ro th and help reduce overall coo kin g tim e , since the
soup w ill come to the c o rre c t cooking speed m ore quickly.
G arnishes are as varied as the soups them selves. C routons are common, and th e y may
be an in te g ra l p a rt o f th e pre pa ration , as in Onion Soup G ratinee (page 335). Add o th e r
garnishes, such as pesto, g ra te d cheese, or even beaten eggs, to veg etab le soups ju s t be­
fo re service. Purees o f red peppers, chiles, to m a to , o r so rre l m ay also be added a t th e last
m om ent f o r a dash o f color and flavo r. F o rtifie d w ines (such as sherry), vinegar, or citru s
ju ices may be used fo r la st-m in u te fla v o r a d ju stm e nts.
M o s t veg etab le soups cook fro m s ta rt to fin is h in a single pot. The p o t should be ta lle r
than it is w ide to allow th e soup to cook g e n tly and evenly at a co n sta n t sim m er. S kim m ers,
ladles, and spoons are all used th ro u g h o u t the p re p a ra tio n tim e . T asting spoons and cups
should be on hand so th a t you can m o n ito r th e soup's fla v o r developm ent. S torage o r hold­
ing c on tain ers w ill also be needed.

ch a p te r 14 » SO U P S 311
Q basic formula
Hearty Broth Onion Soup Clear Vegetable Soup
(1 gal/3.84 L) (1 gal/3.84 L) (1 gal/3.84 L)

4 lb/1.81 kg of one or more 5 lb/ 2.27 kg onions 4 lb/1.81 kg vegetables

main flavoring ingredients, such
as vegetables, meat, poultry, 1 gal/3.84 L stock 1 gal/3.84 L vegetable stock or
fish, legumes, or pasta broth if for nonvegetarian soup

1 gal/3.84 L stock or broth

Seasonings and flavorings, such as

salt and pepper, 1 Standard Sachet
d'Epices or Standard Bouquet
Garni (page 241), oignon brule (see
page 240), or others as desired

method
at-a-glance
1. Sweat the aromatics and
vegetables. Add additional To intensify the flavor o f a broth, theamount of meat or
main ingredients if using. vegetable may be increased. To further enhance the flavor and color of a broth,
2. Add the liquid. brown the major flavoring ingredients (meat and/or vegetables) before adding
the liquid.
3. Bring to a boil and skim.

4. Add the bouquet garni or Additional ingredients may be added to develop more flavor.
sachet d’epices. Add these ingredients at the appropriate time. Add some early in the cooking
process to infuse flavor. Add others later on so that they retain their individual
5. Simmer and skim.
flavor and/or texture.
6. Add the remaining
SA CH ET D 'EPICES OR B O U Q U E T G A R N I / O IG N O N BRClLE / FRESH OR D RIED
ingredients at proper
H ERBS / A R O M A T IC VEG ETAB LES
intervals.

7. Discard the bouquet garni
or sachet d’epices when the
proper flavor is reached.
8. Cool and store, or finish
and garnish fo r service.
To add body to a hearty broth, any one of the following may be used,
depending on the desired results:
M EATS / G R A IN S / PASTA / S TA R C H Y VEG ETA B LE S / LEG UM ES
G a m i s h m g a hearty broth is yet another way to introduce and influ­
ence flavor. Add garnishing ingredients cut to the appropriate size and desired
shape at the very end of the cooking process or just before service:

MEAT, POULTRY, OR FIS H / G R A IN S OR PASTA / VE G ETAB LES / FRESH HERBS,

OR HERB PASTES SUCH AS PESTO / C RO UTO N S / CHEESE / P LA IN OR FLAVORED

OILS / F O R T IFIE D W IN E S , OR OTHERS AS D E SIR ED

STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S
1. Cllt VGgetableS in u n ifo rm shapes and
sizes. Cook th e a ro m a tic ve g e ta b le s in f a t to th e desired
stage, adding th e m a t in te rv a ls to develop th e b e st flavo r,
te x tu re , and color. Onions, ga rlic, leeks, celery, ca rro ts,
and parsnips are basic a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts o f many
veg etab le soups. S w e atin g th e m in a sm all am ount o f
f a t begins th e process o f re lea sing th e ir fla v o rs in to the
soup. C ooking v e g e ta b le s such as onions to a deep golden
brow n w ill develop a ric h e r fla v o r in th e fin is h e d bro th .
Some te n d e r veg etab le s, such as b ro c c o li flo re ts ,
asparagus tip s , and o th e r d e lic a te ty p e s are n o t allow ed
to sweat. They are added a t sta g g e re d in te rva ls, acco rd ­
ing to in d ivid u a l co o kin g tim e s. C onsult recipes fo r spe­
c ific in s tru c tio n s on co o kin g th e vegetables.

2. add the liquid and b rin g to a sim m er, s t ir ­

ring, skim m ing, and a d ju s tin g seasoning th ro u g h o u t the
coo kin g tim e . Add m ain fla v o rin g ingredients a t a p p ro p ri­
ate intervals. Depending upon the fla v o r o f the broth, ap­
p ro p ria te seasoning may also be added a t th is point. Bear in
mind th a t the soup w ill sim m er fo r about 30 m inutes longer.
A slow sim m e r is th e b e st coo kin g speed f o r m o st
soups. The veg etab le s and m eats w ill release th e be st
flavo r, and th e appearance o f veg etab le s w ill be m ore
a ttra c tiv e when cooked a t a sim m er. A hard b o il te n d s to
cook fo o d to shreds.
C ontinue to add in g re d ie n ts a t th e a p p ro p ria te p o in t
so th a t th e y cook p ro p e rly and develop a good flavo r. A d ­
d itio n a l a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts, such as a sachet d’epices or
bo uq ue t garni, are also added to w a rd th e end so th a t the y
w ill cook ju s t long enough to release fla v o r in to th e soup.
Skim th e surface as needed th ro u g h o u t p re p a ra tio n . The
scum th a t develops on th e soup needs to be rem oved fo r
the b e st fin is h e d q u a lity and appearance. Taste th e soup
fre q u e n tly as it cooks and make a d ju stm e n ts as neces­
sary. Once th e soup has reached its peak fla vo r, it is ready
fo r fin a l seasoning, garnishing, and service, or it may be
cooled and sto re d .

ch a p te r 14 » SO UPS 313

ADDITIONS FORTHE BROTH
MEATS, POULTRY, A N D FISH
Cuts of meat that are more mature and less
tender should be added to the soup early in
the cooking process so that they will flavor
the broth properly and finish cooking at the
same time as the other ingredients. Add fish
or shellfish to hearty broths close to the end
of cooking time to prevent overcooking.
G R A I N S A N D PASTA
Allow grains and pasta a little more time than
would be necessary to cook in boiling salted
water.
LEGUMES
Add lentils and black-eyed peas to the soup
along with the stock to cook fully. Other
beans may need to be cooked separately.
D E N S E OR S T A R C H Y V E G E T A B L E S
Roots and tubers cut to small dice typically
require 30 to 45 minutes to cook fully.
314 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
3. the finished soup should have a rich
color, fla vo r, and arom a. "C lear" veg e ta b le soups are not
as cle ar as b ro th o r consom m e. U nlike stra in e d soups, the
v eg etab le s are p a rt o f th e soup its e lf and give it te x tu re
and body. W hen p ro p e rly cooked, veg etab le s should have
appealing colors. M eats, p o u ltry , fish , and sta rch y in g re d i­
ents, such as p o ta to e s and beans, should hold th e ir shape
b u t have a ve ry s o ft te x tu re .
NOTE: Beans should be cooked s e p a ra te ly and added
to the soup la te r a t a s p e c ifie d tim e. I f the beans are a d d ­
ed a t the sam e tim e as o th e r veg etab le s, the beans w ill
s t ill rem a in h a rd and u n de rcooke d by the tim e the o th e r
ve g e ta b le s are tender.
GREEN VEG ETABLES
Add peas, green beans, and leafy vegetables
such as spinach or kale during the final 15 to 20
minutes of simmering time for the soup. Some
chefs prefer to blanch these vegetables to help
set the colors before adding them to a soup.
TOMATOES
In some cases, tomatoes may be added at the
beginning of the cooking time, along with the
aromatic ingredients, to act as a broth flavor­
ing. A tomato garnish may be added during
the final 5 to 10 minutes of simmering time.
HERBS AND SPICES
Add dried herbs and most spices to the soup
along with the aromatics to flavor the broth
throughout the cooking time. Fresh and dried
herbs and spices may also be added in the
form of a sachet or bouquet during the final
15 to 20 minutes of simmering time, or before
service for the freshest flavor.
 cream
A ccording to c la s s ic a l definitions , a cr ea m so u p is based on a b e c h a m e l sa u c e (m ilk

T H I C K E N E D W I T H R O U x ) A N D IS F I N I S H E D W I T H H E A V Y C R E A M . A V E L O U T E S O U P IS B A S E D O N A L I G H T

V E L O U T E S A U C E ( S T O C K T H I C K E N E D W I T H R O U x ) A N D IS F I N I S H E D W I T H A L I A I S O N O F H E A V Y C R E A M

soup
A N D E G G Y O L K S . C O N T E M P O R A R Y C H E F S NO L O N G E R D R A W A D I S T I N C T I O N B E T W E E N T H E TWO; T H E Y

F R E Q U E N T L Y S U B S T I T U T E A V E L O U T E B A S E F O R T H E B E C H A M E L IN C R E A M S O U P S O R E V E N U S E T H E

T E R M C R E A M TO R E F E R TO A P U R E E S O U P T H A T H A S S I M P L Y B E E N F I N I S H E D W I T H C R E A M .

cream soup
The main fla v o rin g fo r som e cream soups is o fte n a single in gre die nt, such as broccoli,
asparagus, chicken, o r fish . When sim m e ring p o u ltry o r fis h in th e soup to give fla v o r and
body, be sure to trim , truss, or cu t tho se in g re d ie n ts as a p p ro p ria te . Vegetables, w h e th e r
used as main fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts or as arom atics, should be w e ll rinsed, then peeled,
trim m e d , and cu t in to small, un ifo rm pieces so th e y cook evenly.
Use a w ell-seasoned, fu ll-b o d ie d bro th , s to ck, o r lig h t veloute. M ilk o r a lig h t bechamel
is som e tim es a p p ro p ria te . Bring the liquid up to a sim mer, along w ith seasonings, a ro m a t­
ics, o r o th e r in g re d ie n ts m eant to pro vid e flavo r. R e fe r to s p e c ific recipes f o r guidance.
T hickeners including prepared roux, flo u r o r p o ta to e s, o r th e natural th icke n in g o f the
pureed main in g re d ie n t give cream soups th e ir te x tu re . However, added th icke n e rs are un­
necessary i f the base liquid is a prepared veloute.
A ssem ble fin is h in g ingre die nts, fin a l fla v o rin g and seasonings, and garnishes ahead o f
tim e to be ready to add a t the p ro p e r tim e. B ring cream to a sim m e r b e fo re adding it to
sim m e ring soup. Blend liaisons and te m p e r the m ju s t b e fo re serving th e soup.
Pots w ith heavy f la t b o tto m s, made o f no nre active m a te ria ls such as stain le ss s te e l or
anodized alum inum , are a good choice fo r cream soups. S im m er cream soups on fla tto p s or
a heat d iffu s e r to pre ven t h o t spo ts fro m de veloping and scorch in g th e soup. Have w o od­
en spoons, ladles, and skim m ers available th ro u g h o u t th e cooking process. Use blenders
(c o u n te rto p or im m ersion) and fo o d m ills singly o r in com b in ation to puree th e soup. For a
v e lv e ty te x tu re in the fin ish e d soup, you may also need fin e -m e sh stra in e rs o r cheesecloth
to stra in the soup a fin a l tim e.

ch a p te r 14 » SO U P S 315
 basic formula
Cream Soup 1 gal/3.84 L Chicken Finishing and garnishing ingredients
(1 gal/3.84 L) Veloute or other veloute as appropriate (Liaison [page
(page 2 9 4 ), thin nappe 249], diced or julienned main
1 lb/454 g White
flavoring ingredient, or mince
Mirepoix (page 243) Seasonings and flavorings or chiffonade of herbs)
(salt and pepper, or Standard
4 lb/1.81 kg of one or more main
Sachet d'Epices, page 241)
flavoring ingredients, such as
vegetables, meat, poultry, or fish 16 fl oz/480 mL heavy cream

m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
1. Cook the m irepoix or other expert tips Q
aromatics.

2. Add the main flavoring and

cook gently over low heat.
To thicken, any one of the following may be used, depending on the de­
sired results:
3. Add the veloute. Bring to
BLOND R O U X / W H IT E R O U X / FLO U R / POTATOES
a boil.

4 . Establish a simmer.
5. Add the bouquet garni or
sachet d'epices.
6. Simmer and skim.
7. Discard the bouquet garni
or sachet d’epices when the
proper flavor is reached.
8. Puree the soup and strain if
necessary.
9. Adjust consistency if
necessary.
Additional ingred ients may be added to develop more flavor.
Add the ingredient at the appropriate time. Add some early in the cooking
process to infuse flavor. Others may be added later so that they retain their
individual flavor and/or texture.
SA C H ET D 'E PIC E S / B O U Q U ET G A R NI
Garnishing a cream soup is yet another way to introduce and influence
flavors. Garnishing ingredients cut to the appropriate size and desired shape
are added at the very end of the cooking process or just before service. Any of
the following may be used:
LIA IS O N / H E A V Y CREAM / D ICED OR JULIEN NED M A IN FLAVORING IN G R ED IE N T /
M IN C E OR C H IFFO N A D E OF HERBS

10. Simmer, adjust seasoning,

and add cream.
11 . Cool and store, or finish
and garnish fo r service.
For a healthier option: Use pureed vegetables (especially those
high in starch) to thicken the soup in place of roux, veloute, or flour. Replace
cream with evaporated skim milk to reduce calories and fat.

STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UPS

 cream
1. cook the aromatic vegetables
to develop a good fla v o r base. W h ite m ire p o ix is a com ­
mon a ro m a tic co m b in a tio n f o r cream soups. Here it is

soup
used f o r th e a ro m a tic base to pre serve th e soup’s lig h t
green color.

2. add the main flavoring

in gre die nt(s) in th e f ir s t stages o f cooking. Here, th e b ro c­
coli and a ro m a tics are sw eated u n til tra n s lu c e n t b e fo re
adding the velou te . Cook g e n tly over low heat in o il or
c la rifie d b u tte r u n til th e veg etab le s are te n d e r and tra n s ­
lu cen t and begin to release th e ir ju ices. When using a p re ­
made ve lo u te or becham el, use only enough f a t to sm o th e r
th e a ro m a tics and keep th e m fro m burning. A lte rn a tiv e ly ,
include a p o ta to to th icke n th e soup.
S lo w ly s tir in th e ve lo u te o r becham el. B rin g th e soup
ju s t up to a sim m er, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly . Check th e soup’s
seasoning and make any necessary a d ju stm e n ts. Add
ce rta in in g re d ie n ts to th e soup a t in te rva ls, depending
upon how dense th e y are and th e e ffe c t th a t exte nde d
coo kin g m ig h t have on them . Tender new peas w ill becom e
gray and p a sty i f allow ed to cook f o r to o long. A sachet
d'epices le ft in th e soup to o long may lose its fre s h flavo r.
C onsult in d ivid u a l recipe s f o r s p e c ific in s tru c tio n s on
when to add in g re d ie n ts.
S im m er u n til th e m ain in g re d ie n t is fu lly cooked and
te n d e r and th e soup has a good fla vo r, s tirrin g , skim m ing,
and a d ju s tin g th e seasoning th ro u g h o u t th e coo kin g tim e .
Cream soups usually need 3 0 to 45 m in utes o f s im m e r­
ing tim e to develop fla v o r and th icke n p ro p e rly. S tir f r e ­
q u e n tly to p re ve n t scorching. S kim m ing th e soup rem oves
excess f a t and im p u ritie s to cre a te good fla vo r, color, and
te x tu re in th e fin is h e d soup. Pull th e p o t s lig h tly to the
side o f th e burner; th e fa t and im p u ritie s w ill c o lle c t on
one side o f th e pot, w here it is easy to skim the m away.
Taste the soup o fte n as it develops and add a d d itio n a l
seasonings and a ro m a tics as needed.

c h a p te r 14 » SO U P S 317
 3. puree the soup (if necessary) and stra in
it. The soup m u st be s tra in e d and any so lid s rem aining
in th e s tra in e r should be discarded. A fte r th a t, the soup
base should be added back to th e p o t and sim m ered a t
1 8 5 °F /8 5 °C u n til th e desired co n siste n cy is achieved.
V egetable soups m ust be strain ed ; cream soups based
upon m eat, fish , o r p o u ltry are n o t n e cessa rily pureed.
Use a fo o d m ill, blender, im m e rsion blender, or fo o d p ro ­
cessor to puree ve g e ta b le cream soups.
Pureed cream soups need to be stra in e d using e ith e r
a fin e -m e sh sieve o r rin sed doubled cheesecloth. If using
a fin e -m e sh sieve, push th e solids against th e sides to
e x tra c t th e puree. S tra in in g produces th e v e lv e t-s m o o th
te x tu re o f a good cream soup by rem o ving all fib e rs .
The soup should have th e de sire d fla v o r and consis­
te n cy a t th is p o in t. M ake any necessary a d ju stm e n ts to
co n siste n cy now. The soup is ready to fin is h now, o r it may
be ra p id ly cooled and re frig e ra te d fo r la te r service (or to
serve as a chille d soup).

4. simmer the soup, checking fo r flavo r,

con sisten cy, and seasoning b e fo re adding the cream. For
a h o t cream soup, re tu rn th e soup to a sim m er over m e­
dium heat and add enough h o t cream to enrich the soup,
w ith o u t o ve rw h elm ing th e main in g re d ie n t's fla vo r. Return
th e soup to a sim m e r and a d ju s t seasoning, if necessary.

318 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S

 cream
5. garnishes must be very hot
when added to h o t soup. Reheat the m in fla v o rfu i liq u id
to fu r th e r enhance th e soup's fla v o r. Cream soups can be

soup
fin is h e d and garnished by in d ivid u a l p o rtio n o r by batches,
acco rding to th e kitche n's needs. Cook th e garnish fu lly
and season it w ell. This m ust be done as a sep a ra te op e ra ­
tio n since garnish in g re d ie n ts d o n 't a c tu a lly sim m e r in the
soup as it cooks. Add th e heated and seasoned garnish to
th e soup, if desired, and serve a t once in heated bow ls or
cups.
To fin is h a cold cream soup, add chille d cream to the
soup. A d ju s t seasoning i f necessary (cold fo o d s o fte n
need m ore seasoning tha n th e same dish served hot), and
add th e chille d and seasoned garnish. If desired, serve a t
once in chille d bow ls o r cups.

6. good cream soups have a rich flavo r,

balancing th e main fla v o rin g in g re d ie n t(s) and s u p p o rt­
ing a ro m a tic and fin is h in g fla v o rs , v e lv e ty te x tu re , and
a lig h tly th icke n e d con sisten cy, s im ila r to heavy cream.
Very th ic k cream soups o fte n have a p a sty fe e l and ta s te
due to e ith e r to o much th ic k e n e r o r to overcooking. D is­
a p p o in tin g fla v o r and c o lo r in d ic a te th a t n o t enough o f
th e m ain fla v o rin g in g re d ie n t(s) was used, in g re d ie n ts
w ere overcooked, o r to o much liq u id was added. Too much
cream can d e tra c t fro m th e m a jo r fla v o r o f th e soup,
m asking th e p rim a ry ta s te .

ch a p te r 14 » SO U P S 319
 CHOWDER
Chowders get their name from the French
word chaudiere, a kettle in which fisherman
made their stews. Classically, chowders
were made from seafood and included
pork, potatoes, and onions, though it is not
uncommon for any thick, rich, and chunky
soup to be called a chowder. There is also
a group of chowders, of which Manhattan-
Style Clam Chowder (page 344) may be the
most widely known, that are prepared more
like a hearty broth. The main flavoring
ingredients for chowder are often shellfish,
fish, or vegetables, such as corn. Vegetables,
whether used as main flavoring ingredients
or as aromatics, should be well rinsed, then
peeled, trimmed, and cut into small and
uniform pieces so they cook evenly.
Use a well-seasoned, full-bodied broth
or stock, or water. Bring the liquid up to a
simmer, along with seasonings, aromatics,
or other ingredients meant to provide fla­
vor. Refer to specific recipes for guidance.
Thickeners, including flour and potatoes,
give chowders their texture.
Assemble the finishing ingredients, fi­
nal flavoring and seasonings, and garnishes
ahead of time to be ready to add at the
proper time. If adding cream, bring it to a
simmer before adding it to the simmering
chowder.
Traditionally, chowder is made em­
ploying the singer method, in which the
flour for thickening is cooked with the
320 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D S O U P S
aromatics, rather than separately as for ve­
loute. For this reason, more fat is necessary
when cooking the aromatics; this is critical
to successfully making any soup using the
singer method.
It is precisely because of this that the
singer method can be an unreliable way
to make chowder. The results vary widely
because the fat traditionally comes from
a rendered pork product and it is hard to
predict how much fat will render out; it
is then difficult to determine how much
additional fat is needed. The amount of fat
released can create an unreliable ratio of
fat to flour, creating either too much roux
or not enough roux to thicken the quantity
of chowder being made.
In addition, the vegetables release
moisture during the sweating period,
which can interfere with the formation of
the roux. Using the proper amount of roux
made separately ensures the success of the
chowder’s thickness and consistency.
For more control over the finished
product, a veloute-based soup should be
made. See the method in detail on page 317
for more detailed instructions. Because the
roux will be hot, make sure the liquid to be
added is cool or at room temperature, oth­
erwise the roux will become lumpy. Add
the liquid slowly while stirring constantly
to further ensure that the finished liquid
for the chowder will be smooth.
 puree soups
P u r ee so u ps a re slig h tly thicker th an crea m so u ps an d h ave a s o m e w h a t co arser t e x t u r e .

O ften based on dried l e g u m e s , potatoes , or s t a r ch y v e g e t a b l e s , pu r ee so u p s a re u s u a lly

entirely p u r e e d , th o u g h o c ca sio n a lly so m e of the so lids are le ft w h o le for t e x t u r a l

interest .A lthough not n e c e s s a r y , finishing ingredients m a y include milk or c r e a m .P uree

so u ps are often g a rn ished w ith cro uto n s or s m a l l dice of a c o m p l e m e n t a r y m eat , fresh

h e r b s , or v e g e t a b l e .

puree soups
M any puree soups are based on dried beans: G reat N o rth ern , navy, or black beans, le ntils,
and s p lit peas, fo r example. Beans o th e r than le n tils and s p lit peas may be soaked f o r sev­
eral hours b e fo re cooking. The beans absorb some liquid, th e overall c oo kin g tim e is s h o rt­
ened, and th e beans cook m ore evenly and absorb less liquid du rin g th e cooking process.
R e la tive ly sta rch y veg etab le s such as p o ta to e s, squash, o r ce le ry ro o t are o fte n the
base f o r o th e r puree soups. These have to be peeled and diced o r sliced. Even though these
in g re d ie n ts are pureed, re la tiv e u n ifo rm ity o f cu t size is necessary f o r th e in g re d ie n ts to
cook evenly.
A ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts such as onions, ga rlic, ca rro ts, and celery are o fte n fo u n d in puree
soups. Vegetables may be ro a ste d or g rille d beforeh an d fo r e xtra flavo r. C onsult sp e cific
recipes fo r p re p a ra tio n and c u ttin g in stru ctio n s.
W ater, b ro th , and s to ck are th e m o st fre q u e n tly used base liquids. Check th e freshn ess
o f b ro th s o r s to cks th a t have been sto re d b e fo re using the m in a soup.
M any puree soups based on a legume call fo r a b it o f rendered s a lt pork, sm oked
ham, bacon, o r o th e r cured po rk p ro d u cts. In som e instances, th e se in g re d ie n ts should be
blanched f ir s t to rem ove any excess salt: cover the m w ith cool w ater, b rin g the w a te r to a
sim m er, and then drain and rinse. C onsult s p e c ific recipes fo r m ore guidance. An a lte rn a ­
tiv e is to use a ham -based bro th . Besides cured pork, in g re d ie n ts used to season puree
soups are as diverse as chiles, d ried m ushroom s, h o t sauce, c itru s ze st or ju ice, and vinegar.
G arnishes include chopped herbs, croutons, diced m eats, to a s te d o r frie d to rtilla s , salsas,
and d o llo p s o f sour cream.
E quipm ent re q u ire m e n ts f o r m aking puree soups are q u ite s im ila r to tho se f o r cream
soups. Look f o r po ts w ith heavy b o tto m s, to avoid scorching and developing h o t spots.
If available, a heat d iffu s e r o r o th e r s im ila r device should be used to keep th e heat even.
Keep ta s tin g spoons and cups on hand so th a t you can check th e fla v o r o f th e soup th ro u g h ­
o u t th e cooking tim e . Have wooden spoons, ladles, and skim m e rs available th ro u g h o u t the
cooking process. Pureeing e q uipm en t such as a fo o d m ill or blender is necessary to fin ish
th e soup. You w ill also need con tain ers f o r c oo lin g o r ho ld ing th e soup.

ch a p te r 14 » SO UPS 321
 b asic fo rm u la
Puree Soup
(1 gal/3.84 L)
Flavorings such as salt pork,
smoked ham, or bacon
1 lb /4 5 4 g Standard or White
Mirepoix (page 2 4 3 ) or other
aromatic vegetables
1 g a l/3 .8 4 L stock or broth for
soups made with potatoes or
starchy vegetables;
or 5 q t/4 .8 0 L stock or broth
for soups made with legumes
method
at-a-glance
1. Sweat the vegetables.
2. Add the liquid.
3. Establish a simmer.
4 . Add the main ingredient, if
not added in step 1.
5. Add the sachet d’epices or
bouquet garni.
6. Discard the bouquet garni
or sachet d’epices when the
proper flavor is reached.
7. Strain.
8. Puree the solids.
9. Reincorporate the liquid to
the proper consistency.
10. Cool and store, or finish
and garnish fo r service.
322 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
4 lb /1 .8 1 kg vegetables, such Note: This form ula varies based
as potatoes and/or squash or on the starch content o f the
VA to 2 lb /6 8 0 to 9 0 7 g dried main ingredient being used.
legumes, such as lentils Dried legumes have diffe re nt
starch contents from starchy
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices or vegetables such as butternut
Standard Bouquet Garni (page 2 4 1 ) squash or potatoes. The amount
o f stock being used and the time
Seasonings and other flavorings, allo tte d fo r proper cooking w ill
such as salt and pepper, tomatoes, vary based on starch content.
lemon juice, or vinegar
Finishing and garnishing
ingredients such as croutons,
fresh herbs, or diced ham
ex p ert tips Q
Additional ingredients can be added to heighten the flavor of
the pureed soup. Add the ingredient at the appropriate time. Add some early
in the cooking process to infuse flavor. Others may be added later so that they
retain their original flavor.
M IR E P O IX / SA CH ET D 'E P IC ES / B O U Q U ET G A R NI / S M O K E D H A M OR SALT
P O R K /T O M A T O E S
Garnishing a puree soup is yet another way to introduce and influence
flavors. Garnishing ingredients cut to the appropriate size and desired shapes
are added at the very end of the cooking process or just before service.
C RO U TO N S / S M A L L -D IC E H A M / S M A L L D IC E OR W H O LE PIEC ES OF THE M A IN
FLAVO RING IN G R E D IE N T / FRESH HERBS
For a healthier option: Reduce or remove additions that will add
excess fa t and calories, such as m eat products. Use vegetables as the primary
or sole garnish.
 puree soups
1. render the salt pork, if using, to be­
gin th e process o f bu ild in g a fla v o r base. It also pro vid es
th e fa t necessary to sw e at or brow n th e a ro m atics. If the
recipe calls f o r m inced s a lt p o rk o r bacon, re n d e r it over
low heat to release th e fa t. You can also use b u tte r or
oil f o r a m ea tless soup. L ig h tly brow n th e a ro m a tic veg­
eta ble s. Cook ove r low to m edium heat, s tirrin g fro m tim e
to tim e , u n til a rich arom a develops o r u n til th e y ta ke on a
rich golden hue, anyw here fro m 20 to 30 m inutes.

2. add the remaining ingredients

and th e liq u id a t th e a p p ro p ria te in te rva ls. Add dry, dense,
tough, fib ro u s , o r s ta rc h y in g re d ie n ts (dry beans, ro o t
vegetables, w in te r squash, f o r instance) a t th e beginning
o f cooking tim e , usually as soon as th e s to ck o r b ro th
has reached a sim m er. Since th e soup is pureed b e fo re
service, it is less c ritic a l tha n in a h e a rty b ro th th a t these
m eth o d in d etail
in g re d ie n ts n o t overcook; th e re th e in g re d ie n ts are in ­
te n d e d to re ta in th e ir shape du rin g coo kin g and service.
S im m er u n til th e soup is w e ll fla v o re d and all th e in g re ­
die n ts are ve ry ten der, 25 to 3 0 m in u te s f o r soups made
w ith sta rch y v e g e ta b le s o r p o ta to e s or 45 m in utes to 1
hour f o r soup m ade w ith d rie d legumes.
S tir th e soup fre q u e n tly as i t cooks to p re ve n t sta rch y
in g re d ie n ts fro m s tic k in g to th e b o tto m o f th e po t. Add
m ore s to c k o r o th e r liq u id as necessary du rin g th e co o k­
ing tim e . The sta rc h y o r d ry in g re d ie n ts used in many
puree soups w ill absorb d iffe re n t am ounts o f liq u id as
th e y cook, de pe nd ing upon th e ir m a tu rity . S kim th e soup
as it cooks to rem ove any im p u ritie s o r scum, and ad ju st
seasoning as necessary. Add a sach et d'epices or bouq ue t
garni du rin g th e fin a l 3 0 m in utes o f c oo kin g tim e.
Puree soups based on legum es m ay call f o r a ham
hock o r s im ila r sm oked p o rk cut. Sm oked ham hocks are
e x tre m e ly tou gh and re q u ire long, slow coo kin g in o rd e r
f o r the m to be te n d e r enough to use in puree soups.
T ypically, a ham hock b ro th is cooked f o r 3 to 5 hours in
advance o f p re p a rin g th e puree soup. Once th e hocks are
cooked, the re s u ltin g b ro th can be used as th e liquid base
f o r th e soup. Remove th e p o rk fro m th e soup once it has
added th e de sire d fla v o r. C ut th e lean m ea t in to ne at dice
and reserve to add as a garnish.

c h a p te r 14 » SO UPS 323
 3. strain out a small portion o f the
coo kin g liquid and reserve f o r a d ju stin g th e fin a l con sis­
te n cy o f th e soup. Puree th e rem a ining solids and liquid
and ad ju st seasoning and con sisten cy. D iffe re n t ty p e s o f
pu ree ing e q u ip m e n t w ill produce d iffe re n t te x tu re s in th e
fin is h e d soup. R ustic o r h o m e -style purees may be re la ­
tiv e ly coarse and may even re ly sim p ly upon th e sta rch in
th e main in g re d ie n t to give th e soup its th icke n e d te x tu re .
A fo o d m ill f it te d w ith a coarse disk can also be used
f o r a te x tu re d puree. B lenders and im m e rsion blenders
produce ve ry sm oo th soups w ith a ve ry fin e consistency.
As h o t puree soups s it, th e sta rc h y m ain in g re d ie n ts may
con tinu e to absorb liq u id and th icke n th e soup. Check the
co n siste n cy in te r m itte n tly and ad ju st as necessary. A t
th is p o in t, th e soup is ready to be fin is h e d and garnished
f o r service o r ra p id ly cooled and re frig e ra te d .

4. puree soups are som ew hat th ic k e r and have

a s lig h tly coa rser te x tu re tha n o th e r th ic k soups, b u t the y
should s till be liquid enough to pour easily fro m a ladle
in to a bowl, w ith a co n siste n cy s im ila r to heavy cream.
A p ro p e r balance betw een solid in g re d ie n ts and liquid
re su lts in a soup w ith a pleasing, ro b u s t flavo r. O ptionally,
fo r e xtra richness, a b it o f s o fte n e d b u tte r can be sw irled
on to p o f th e soup ju s t b e fo re it leaves th e kitche n f o r the
d in in g ro o m .

324 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D S O U P S

 in
Tr a d it i o n a l l y , b is q u e s a r e b a s e d o n c r u s t a c e a n s s u c h a s s h r im p , l o b s t e r , or c r a y f is h , a n d 1 -0

t h ic k e n e d w it h r ic e , r ic e f l o u r , or b r e a d . T h e c r u s t a c e a n s h e l l s a r e u s u a l l y PULVERIZED ^

ALONG WITH THE OTHER INGREDIENTS BEFORE A F IN A L STRAININ G. T h e END RESULT IS A SOUP WITH A fD

CONSISTENCY LIKE THAT OF A CREAM SOUP.

bisque
C o ntem p orary bisques may be based on in g re d ie n ts o th e r than crustaceans and may rely
on a veg etab le puree or roux as th e thickener. Added th icke n e rs are unnecessary i f using
a prepared velou te . A veg etable-based bisque is pre pa red in the same m anner as a puree
soup. If th e main v eg etab le does n o t contain enough starch to act as a thickener, rice, roux,
o r a sta rch y veg etab le such as p o ta to may be used to provide a d d itio n a l thickness. When
th e veg etab le s are tender, th e soup is pureed u n til sm ooth. C onsequently, the d is tin c tio n
betw een a puree and a bisque is n o t always clear.
C rustacean m eat and shells fo r bisque should be rinsed well, the n coarsely chopped.
S h e llfish should be scrubbed clean. Check the q u a lity o f s to re d fu m e ts , stocks, or bro th s
used to prepare a bisque b e fo re use. B ring a sm all am ount to a bo il and ta s te it fo r any sour
o r o f f odors. Peel, trim , and chop any veg etab le s to be used in th e bisque. Chopped onion,
m ire poix, o r g a rlic is ge ne rally a p a rt o f th e soup. O th er in g re d ie n ts fre q u e n tly used to add
fla v o r and co lo r include to m a to paste, sw e et paprika, brandy, and wine.
Cream and she rry are fin is h in g in g re d ie n ts f o r m o st bisques. Diced cooked pieces o f
the main fla v o rin g in g re d ie n t com m only garnish a bisque.
The eq uipm en t re q u ire m e n ts fo r m aking bisque are id e n tica l to th o se fo r m aking cream
soup (see page 3 1 5) and include a heavy-gauge pot, pureeing e q uipm ent, and a s tra in e r or
cheesecloth, as w e ll as eq uipm en t fo r holding, serving, and sto rin g .

yudhacookbook.com

c h a p te r 14 » SO UPS 325
D basic formula
Bisque
(1 gal/3.84 L)
2 lb/907 g of one or more main
flavoring ingredients, such as
crustacean shells (shrimp, crab,
lobster, or a combination)
1 lb/454 g Standard or White
Mirepoix (page 243)
Tomato paste or puree
A thickening agent such as Blond
Roux (see page 246), flour, or
rice (whole grains or flou r), if
not using a prepared veloute
1 gal/3.84 L liquid (shellfish stock,
fumet, broth, or shellfish veloute)
Seasonings and flavorings, such as
salt and pepper, paprika, Standard
Sachet d'Epices or Standard
Bouquet Garni (page 241)
Finishing and garnishing
ingredients, such as 16 fl
oz/480 mL heavy cream, diced
or other cuts of cooked shrimp,
lobster, or crab; sherry

method
at-a-glance
Sear the crustacean shells expert tips Q
in a fat. Remove the shells
from the pan.

Add the m irepoix and

To thicken, any one of the following may be used depending on the de­
sired results:
sweat.
V E LO U T E / BLOND R O U X / FLO U R / RICE OR R IC E FLOUR
Add the tom ato product
and pingage.
Additional ingredients may be added to develop more flavor.
Add the alcohol, if using, Add the ingredient at the appropriate time. Add some early in the cooking
and reduce au sec. process to infuse flavor. Others may be added later so that they retain their
5. Incorporate the roux, if individual flavor and/or texture.
using.
M IR E P O IX / SA C H E T D 'E P IC E S / B O U Q U ET G A R NI / TO M ATO PASTE

Add the liquid and sachet

d'epices or bouquet garni. Garnishing abisque is yet another way to introduce and influence fla­
Add the shells back to the vors. Garnishing ingredients cut to the appropriate size and desired shape are
pan. added at the very end of the cooking process or just before service.

7. Simmer and skim. H E A V Y CREA M / S H E R R Y / D ICED COOKED S H RIM P, LO BSTER, OR CRAB

Discard the bouquet garni

or sachet d'epices when the For a healthier option: Use pureed vegetables (especially those

proper fla vor is reached. high in starch) to thicken the soup in place of roux, veloute, or flour. Replace
cream with evaporated skim milk to reduce calories and fat.
9. Strain.

10. Puree the solids.

Reincorporate the liquid to

the proper consistency.
12. Strain.

13. Cool and store, or finish

and garnish fo r service.

STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
 c r
I—* •

1. rinse the shells well and chop la rge r h Q

shells, such as crab o r lo b ste r. Drain and d ry th e m well. £
T ra d itio n a l bisques g e t th e ir c o lo r and fla v o r fro m shrim p, rt>
lobster, crab, o r c ra y fis h shells. Use one ty p e o f c ru s ta ­
cean or a co m b in ation . Brow n th e shells in th e coo kin g fa t,
s tirrin g fre q u e n tly , u n til th e y tu rn a b rig h t pink o r red and
rem ove th e m fro m th e pan.

m eth o d in detail
2. add the mirepoix to th e pan and cook
it over m edium he at f o r 2 0 to 30 m inutes, o r u n til th e
veg etab le s are te n d e r and th e onions are lig h t brown.
Tom ato pa ste is o fte n added a t th is p o in t and allow ed to
cook u n til it has a sw e et arom a and a deep ru s t color. Add
spices such as pa prika to th e shells and o th e r a ro m a tics
to cook in th e fa t.

c h a p te r 14 » SO UP S 327
 3. add a prepared roux to the shells and
cook long enough to s o fte n th e roux. W hisk in the liquid to
fo rm a velou te .
A g o o d -q u a lity s to c k o r b ro th is as im p o rta n t to the
fla v o r o f a bisque as the shells are. If available, a prepared
lig h t v e lo u te made fro m a s h e llfis h o r fis h stock, th ic k ­
ened w ith a blond roux, may be used. Bring the ve lo u te to
a sim m e r w h ile coo kin g th e a ro m a tic veg etab le s to make
coo kin g m ore e ffic ie n t. A m ore tra d itio n a l rice -th icke n e d
sto c k may also be used as th e base f o r th e soup. In th a t
case, th e re is no need to add e ith e r flo u r or a prepared
roux.
A t th is p o in t, add w ine and a d d itio n a l herbs or a ro ­
m atics, such as a sachet d'epices o r b o uq ue t garni.

4. taste the soup and make m o d ific a tio n s to

the seasoning o r c o n siste n cy du rin g cooking. Add m ore
liquid, if necessary, to m aintain a good balance betw een
th e liquid and solids as th e soup cooks. Skim the bisque
th ro u g h o u t. S tir fre q u e n tly and m o n ito r th e heat. A
bisque, like any o th e r soup w ith sta rch y in g re d ie n ts, can
scorch q u ickly i f le ft un a tte n d e d f o r even a fe w m inutes.
A bisque ta ke s 45 m in utes to 1 hour to cook p ro pe rly.
A t th a t p o in t, all in g re d ie n ts (except, obviously, the shells)
should be re la tiv e ly tender, so th e y w ill puree easily. Re­
move and discard th e sachet o r bouq ue t b e fo re pureeing
the bisque. Use a blen der (im m e rsion o r c o u n te rto p ) to
puree it to a fa irly sm oo th and even consistency. P ulveriz­
ing th e shells and pureeing the a ro m a tic veg etab le s helps
to release m ore fla v o r in to th e soup. If tim e allow s, re tu rn
th e pureed bisque to a sim m e r f o r several m in utes and
make any a p p ro p ria te a d ju stm e n ts to th e soup's season­
ing o r c o n siste n cy b e fo re strain in g.

328 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D S O U P S

5. strain a shellfish bisque th ro u g h h Q
rinsed doubled cheesecloth. C heesecloth rem oves all ^
tra ce s o f th e shell and gives th e bisque a ve ry fin e , d e li- CD
cate te x tu re . This is a tw o -p e rs o n ta sk. F irst, se t a sieve
o r colander in a clean po t. Drape th e rinsed cheesecloth
in th e sieve and pour th e bisque th ro u g h it. M o s t o f the
bisque w ill pass th ro u g h th e cheesecloth. Each person
holds tw o corners o f th e che ese cloth and then lift s the
corners up in an a lte rn a tin g sequence (known as th e m ilk ­
ing m ethod). W hen only so lid s rem ain in th e cheesecloth,
each person g a th e rs his o r her corners to g e th e r and
tw is ts in o p p o s ite d ire c tio n s to fin is h s tra in in g th e bisque
(known as th e w rin g in g m ethod). Be ve ry c a re fu l when
using th e w rin g in g m etho d so as n o t to burn yo u rse lf. A
fin e mesh sieve lined w ith che ese cloth can also be used to
stra in th e soup. The bisque is ready to fin is h now, o r may
be ra p id ly cooled and re frig e ra te d f o r la te r service.

6. finish the bisque and add any garnish

in gre die nts. R eturn th e bisque to m edium heat and bring
it to a sim m er. Taste th e soup and make any seasoning
ad ju stm e n ts. If using, b rin g th e cream to a sim m e r sepa­
ra te ly and g ra d u a lly add it to th e bisque. There should be
enough cream to enrich th e soup and add a sm oo th fla v o r
and m o u th fe e l, b u t n o t so much th a t th e cream m asks the
main in gre die nt.
A good bisque re fle c ts th e fla v o r o f th e main in g re ­
dien t. A ll bisques are s lig h tly coarse or grainy, w ith a
con sisten cy s im ila r to heavy cream . A crustacean bisque
ranges fro m pale pink o r red to ivo ry in co lo r and a veg­
eta b le bisque, a pa le r shade o f th e m ain vegetable.

ch a p te r 14 » SO U P S 329
 general guidelines for soup
COOKING
Add v egetables at stag gere d in te rvals, according to cooking tim e s. S tir th e soup fro m tim e to
tim e th ro u g h o u t th e cooking process, to pre ven t s ta rch y in g re d ie n ts fro m s tic k in g to th e b o t­
to m o f th e p o t and f o r th e be st fla vo r, te x tu re , and appearance. When th e fla v o r is fu lly devel­
oped and all o f th e in g re d ie n ts are tender, th e soup may be fin is h e d o r garnished and served
rig h t away, o r cooled and re frig e ra te d . A ltho ug h some soups develop a m ore rounded, m ellow
fla v o r if served the day a fte r th e y are prepared, no soup b e n e fits fro m hours on th e stove. N ot
only w ill th e fla v o r becom e dull and fla t, b u t the n u tritiv e value w ill g re a tly dim inish as well.

ADJUSTING CONSISTENCY
Thick soups, esp ecially tho se made w ith sta rch y veg etab le s o r d ried beans, may continue to
th icke n durin g cooking, storage, and re h e a tin g or holding. As a rule, cream s and bisques are
ab ou t as th ic k as cold heavy cream and liquid enough to pour fro m a ladle in to a bowl. Purees
are som ew hat thicker.
For a soup th a t is to o thin , a sm all am ount o f sta rch slu rry may be added. Have th e soup at
a sim m e r o r slow bo il when th e slu rry is added, then s tir c o n s ta n tly and continue to sim m er fo r
2 or 3 m inutes.

ADJUSTING FLAVOR AND SEASONING

Season soups th ro u g h o u t th e cooking process. M e a t o r p o u ltry glaze may be added to b o ls te r
a w eak b ro th o r consom m e, b u t th is w ill a ffe c t th e cla rity. Chopped fre s h herbs, a fe w drops
o f lemon ju ice, Tabasco sauce, W o rce ste rsh ire sauce, or g ra te d c itru s ze st may be added to
b rig h te n a soup's flavo r.

DEGREASING
Some soups, especially bro th -b a se d ones, may be prepared in advance, then cooled and re ­
frig e ra te d . It is then easy to rem ove the fa t, which congeals on th e surface, b e fo re reh ea ting
th e soup. If th e soup is to be served ju s t a fte r it is prepared, skim as much fa t as possible fro m
th e surface. Clear soups may be b lo tte d w ith s trip s o f paper to w e l or unwaxed brown butcher
paper to rem ove any tra ce s o f fa t b e fo re serving. F lo a t th e s trip s on th e surface, then care­
fu lly l i f t the m o ff. Consommes should be c o m p le te ly fa t fre e , b u t b ro th s and clear vegetable
soups c h a ra c te ris tic a lly have some d ro p le ts o f f a t on th e surface. It is always b e st to s ta rt
w ith th e sm a lle st am ount o f f a t possible to pre ve n t the need f o r excess degreasing.

FIN ISH IN G
Some soups may be prepared to a sp e c ific p o in t and the n cooled and re frig e ra te d . Garnish
clear soups ju s t b e fo re service to pre ven t the m fro m becom ing cloudy and to keep th e garnish
fresh.
Some garnishes are added, p o rtio n by p o rtio n , to heated cups o r bow ls ju s t p rio r to se r­
vice. In o th e r cases, such as fo r b u ffe t service, th e garnish m ay be added to th e e n tire q u a n tity
o f soup.
Finish cream and liaison soups ju s t p rio r to service. Do th is f o r tw o reasons: th e soup w ill
have a fre s h e r flavo r, and its s h e lf life w ill be longer. B ring cream to a bo il b e fo re adding it to
soup to check freshn ess and pre ven t it fro m low ering th e soup’s te m p e ra tu re . Temper a lia i­
son to pre ven t cu rd lin g (see pages 2 4 9 to 250). Make fin a l seasoning ad ju stm e nts a fte r the
soup is finishe d. Alw ays check the seasoning im m e d ia te ly b e fo re service.

330 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S

 in
O

G ARNISHING c
T3
Garnishes may provide c o n tra sts o f fla v o r and te x tu re o r th e y may in tro d u ce a com plem en­
ta ry fla vo r. They m ay also provide a d d itio n a l o r c o n tra s tin g color. In all cases, th e y should be QPQ
th o u g h tfu lly s elected , w ell prepared, and w ell seasoned. £
Shape large garnishes, such as dum plings, w ontons, o r quenelles, to a size th a t does not O .
allow the m to overw helm the soup cup o r p la te se le cte d f o r service. It is equally im p o rta n t
th a t th e y n o t be to o d iffic u lt f o r th e gu est to eat. They should be s o ft enough to cut throu gh J U I*
w ith th e edge o f a soup spoon. £3
Since service te m p e ra tu re is e xtre m e ly im p o rta n t f o r all soups, rem em ber to bring the gar-
nish to service te m p e ra tu re be fore adding it to the soup. There are several ways to do this: m

» Heat the garnish in a steam er or in a small quantity of broth or consomme and hold it in a
steam table.

» Cut delicate items into shapes th at will allow the heat of the soup to warm them thoroughly.
If they are small and relatively thin, they will not cause the soup's tem perature to drop too
severely.

» Keep large items like dumplings, wontons, or quenelles warm and lightly moistened in a
steam table or on the shelf over the range, covered to prevent dehydration of the product.

SERVING
H ot soups should be served very hot. The th in n e r the soup, th e m ore im p o rta n t th is is. Since
consom m es and bro th s lose th e ir heat rapidly, th e y should be nearly at a boil b e fore the y are
ladled in to heated cups. The m ore surface area exposed to th e air, th e quicker the soup w ill
cool. This is one reason th a t consom m es and o th e r b ro th -s ty le soups are tra d itio n a lly served
in cups ra th e r than in the fla tte r, w id e r soup p lates o r bowls o fte n used fo r cream soups and pu­
rees. S erving th in soups in cups also makes it easier fo r servers to tra n s p o rt the soup w ith o u t
spilling. Cold soups should be th o ro u g h ly chilled and served in chilled cups, bowls, or glasses.
Take th e tim e to explain to anyone involved in serving soups th e im p ortan ce o f keeping
ho t soups ve ry h o t and ta k in g the m q u ickly fro m th e kitche n to th e guest. Show all servers or
line cooks th e w ay th a t a soup should look when it is served to th e guest, w ith garnishes and
a d d itio n a l elem ents such as g ra te d cheese or fin e oils to pass o r serve a t tab leside.

REHEATING
If a soup has been prepared in advance, reheat only th e am ount needed fo r a p a rtic u la r service
period. M aintainin g fo o d a t high te m p e ra tu re s fo r extended periods o fte n has undesirable e f­
fe c ts on fla v o r and te xtu re . One good way to m aintain o p tim um q u a lity and m inim ize w aste
is to reh ea t in dividu al p o rtio n s to order. Som etim es, however, th is approach is n o t practical.
Learn the be st way to make use o f the eq uipm ent available fo r service to de term in e how to g e t
fo o d s to service te m p e ra tu re . G e ttin g fo o d s throu gh the danger zone quickly is im p o rta n t.
B ring clear soup ju s t up to a boil. Check seasoning and con sisten cy and add the a p p ro p ri­
ate garnishes b e fo re serving. Reheat th ic k soups g e n tly. Reheat th e soup over low heat at
fir s t, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly u n til it so fte n s s lig h tly . Then increase th e heat s lig h tly and bring the
soup to a simmer. If a soup has already been fin is h e d w ith cream , sour cream, o r esp ecially a li­
aison, do n o t le t it com e all th e w ay up to a bo il o r it may curdle. A te m p e ra tu re o f 18 0°F /82°C
is adequate f o r bo th q u a lity and fo o d s a fe ty concerns. Check seasoning and con sisten cy and
add any garnishes ju s t b e fo re serving.
Check th e te m p e ra tu re re g ularly f o r soups held in a steam tab le. If the y co n siste n tly fa ll
s h o rt o f a desirable te m p e ra tu re (at least 1 6 5°F /74°C fo r m o st soups and sauces), then ad ju st
th e th e rm o s ta t on the steam tab le, have it repaired, or learn to com pensate by qu ickly bringing
in dividu al servings to th e c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re over d ire c t heat o r in a m icrowave.

c h a p te r 14 » SO UP S 331

Beef Consomme
Makes l gal/3.84 L
CLARIFICATION
1 lb /4 5 4 g minced or ground Standard
Mirepoix (page 2 4 3)
3 lb /1.36 kg lean ground beef
12 egg whites, beaten
1 o z/2 8 g salt
10 o z/2 8 4 g fresh or canned tomatoes, chopped
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241), plus
1 clove and 2 allspice berries (see Notes)
6 q t/5 .7 6 L White Beef Stock (page 263), cold
2 oignons brules (see page 240; optional)
1. Blend the mirepoix, ground beef, egg whites, salt,
tomatoes, and the sachet ingredients. Allow to m ac­
erate for 1 to 2 hours if time permits.
2 Heat the stock to approximately ioo°F/38°C in a
stockpot sized to accommodate all the ingredients.
Add the clarification mixture to the stock. Stir to
combine thoroughly.
3. Bring the mixture to 145°F/63°C, stirring frequently
until the raft just begins to form, 8 to 10 minutes.
Look for the proteins to start to float and form small
quarter-size clumps with lighter, unclarified broth
between them. Once raft forms, firmly create a small
hole in part of the raft. If using, add the oignons
brules to the stock near the hole.
4. Simmer slowly at approximately i8o°F/82°C until
the appropriate flavor and clarity is achieved (see
page 3 0 9 ), 1 to 1V2 hours. Baste the raft occasionally
through the opening. Always taste to make sure the
consomme has developed full flavor before straining.
5. Strain the consomme through a damp paper filter
or rinsed doubled cheesecloth: Use a ladle to push
down on the raft carefully at the hole and allow the
broth to flow into the ladle before pouring through
the filter. Repeat until the raft hits the bottom of the
pot. Carefully tilt the broth into the ladle and do not
break the raft. Adjust seasoning with salt as needed.
The consomme is now ready to finish, or may be
rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. De­
grease the hot consomme by skimming or blotting
m
O
with paper towels, or lift the fat from the surface of
£
the refrigerated consomme.
/ . Taste the consomme and adjust seasoning with salt.
Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish as desired.
I—
NOTES: The aromatics can be added as a sachet (which will
b e tte r control the flavo r o f the finished product), or as rt>
loose ingredients. ^
If the firs t cla rificatio n was less than successful,
c la rify a second tim e by combining 1 gal/3.84 L cold
consomme w ith no more than 12 beaten egg whites,a
small amount o f mirepoix, and 1 tb sp /1 5 mL chopped
tomatoes. Bring the consomme slowly to a boil. As the
egg whites coagulate, the im purities w ill be trapped.
This emergency measure, however, tends to remove not
only the im purities but some flavo r as well.
Chicken Consomme Royale: S ubstitute an equal amount
o f W hite Mirepoix (page 243) fo r the standard mirepoix,
ground chicken fo r the ground beef, and Chicken
Stock (page 263) fo r the w hite beef stock. Simmer
at approxim ately 180°F/82°C fo r 1 hour to 1 hour 15
minutes. Garnish the consomme w ith Royale Custard
(recipe follows).
Royale Custard
Makes ninety i-in/3-cm rounds
3 egg yolks
l e gg
6fl oz /1 8 0 mL Chicken or White
Beef Stock (page 263)
V* tsp / 1 g salt, or as needed
Pinch ground white pepper, or as needed
1. Mix all the ingredients together and pour the cus­
tard into a buttered half hotel pan. The custard
should be no more than Ys in/9 mm thick.
2 . Set the pan in a hot water bath and bake it in a
3 00°F /i49°C oven until just firm throughout, about
30 minutes.
3. Using a i-in/3-cm round cutter, cut the custard into
circles. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
NOTES: To ensure that the custard has a uniform thickness,
select a hotel pan that has a com pletely fla t bottom and
be sure th a t the rack inside the oven is level.
The royale may be cut into various shapes, such as
diamonds or squares. The yield w ill vary depending on
the shape and size o f the c utters used.
c h a p te r 14 » SO UPS 333
Chicken Broth B ee f B roth: Replace the stewing hen w ith an equal amount
o f beef shank, chuck, bottom round, oxtail, or short ribs.
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
Veal B roth : Replace the stewing hen w ith an equal amount
1 stewing hen ( 8 lb /3.63 kg), or two 4-lb /1 .8 1-k g hens o f veal shank or shin, chuck, bottom round, or calf's head.

5 q t/4 .8 0 L water
1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Cut the hen in half and place in an appropriate size
stockpot. Add enough cold water to just cover the
chicken. Bring the liquid to a simmer over medium
heat. Reduce the heat slightly and continue to sim­
mer 3 to 5 hours until the hen is very tender and a
deep flavor has been achieved. Skim the surface as
necessary.
Ham or Sm oked Pork B roth : Replace the stewing hen with
an equal amount o f ham hocks (fresh or smoked), meaty
ham bones, or Boston butt.
Lamb B roth : Replace the stewing hen w ith an equal amount
o f lamb shank, leg, shoulder, or neck.
Turkey o r Game B roth: Replace the stewing hen w ith an
equal amount o f necks, backs, or legs o f turkey, guinea
hen, duck, pheasant, goose, or other poultry or game
birds.
Fish B roth: Replace the stewing hen w ith an equal amount
o f lean white fish, such as cod, halibut, hake, flounder, or
pike. Use White Mirepoix (page 243) to keep a light color.
S h e llfish B roth : Replace the stewing hen w ith an equal
amount o f shrimp, lobster, crayfish, and/or crab.

2 . Add the mirepoix and simmer for 30 minutes. Add

the sachet to the broth and continue to simmer until
the broth has a rich flavor and good body, another 30
to 40 minutes.
3 . Remove the hen from the broth when it is fully
cooked and tender. Discard the bones, skin, and
tendons. Reserve the meat to use as a garnish for the
broth or for other applications, if desired.
4 . Taste the broth and season with salt and pepper.
Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve or cheese­
cloth and degrease, if necessary. It is ready to garnish
and serve in heated bowls or cups (see Notes), use
as an ingredient in another dish, or it may be rapidly
cooled and refrigerated for later use.

NOTES: As shown on page 314, chicken broth can be

garnished w ith 10 o z/2 84 g of the reserved chicken
meat, diced; 10 oz/2 84 gH erbed Pasta (page819), cut
into l-in /3 -c m squares and cooked; and 6 oz/170 g each
of paysanne-cut carrot and celery, cooked until tender.

Other options fo r garnishing chicken broth include

julienned meat, diced or fin e ly julienned vegetables,
barley, or Spatzle (page 834).

Am ish Corn and Chicken Soup: S ubstitute Chicken Stock

(page 263) fo r water when making the broth. Add !4
ts p /0 .2 0 g crushed saffron threads w ith the sachet. Dice
or shred the reserved chicken meat and add it to the
broth along w ith 6 oz/170 g cooked fresh or frozen corn
kernels, 6 oz/170 g cooked egg noodles, and 2 oz/57 g
chopped parsley.

STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S

Onion Soup
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
5 lb /2.27 kg thinly sliced onions
2 o z/5 7 g clarified or whole butter
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL Calvados or sherry (see Note)
1 g al/3 .8 4 L Chicken or White Beef
Stock (page 263), warm
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241)
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . In a large sauce pot or rondeau, caramelize the on­
ions in the butter over medium-high heat, stirring
occasionally, until browned, 25 to 30 minutes. Do not
add any salt at this time, to prevent the extraction of
moisture and allow for optimum caramelization.
2 . Deglaze the pan with the Calvados and reduce over
medium-high to high heat until it reaches a syrupy
consistency.
3 . Add the stock and the sachet and simmer until the
onions are tender and the soup is properly flavored, 30
to 35 minutes. The soup is ready to finish now, or may
be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
4 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. Sea­
son with salt and pepper and serve in heated bowls
or cups.
NOTE: If sherry is used, add it to the soup at the end of
cooking time. Adding sherry at step 2 can cause the wine
flavor to dissipate. Sweet wines like sherry are best
added when soup is finished.
W h ite Onion Soup: Gently cook the onions in bu tte r over
low heat until they are limp but not colored. If desired,
add up to 6 oz/170 g flo u r as a thickener. The onions may
also be pureed and added back to the soup.
Onion Soup G ratinee: Portion the soup into flam eproof
bowls or crocks. Garnish each portion o f the soup with
a th in ly sliced, oval crouton (see page 889). Top each
crouton generously w ith grated Gruyere (2 tb sp /3 0 mL
per serving) and brown under a salamander or broiler
until lightly b row ned, 3 to 5 minutes.
C/3
o
Tortilla Soup c
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L |_^
ro
12 plum tomatoes (about 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g), cored ^
1 white onion (about 10 o z/2 8 4 g), halved and peeled | *
4 garlic cloves, unpeeled ^
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL canola oil ^
1 g al/3 .8 4 L Chicken Broth (page 263)
12 epazote sprigs, tied with a string
Salt, as needed
4 pasilla chiles
2 4 corn tortillas, cut into julienne
2 avocados, cut into medium dice
2 cups/480 mL crumbled queso fresco
1 . Dry roast the tomatoes, onion, and garlic on a comal or
in a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until the
tomatoes begin to soften and their edges char. Once
the garlic skin begins to brown, remove it from the
heat and peel.
2 . Puree the roasted tomatoes, onion, and garlic in a
blender until smooth.
3 . Heat 4 fl oz/120 mL oil in a stockpot over medium-
high heat and fry the pureed mixture, stirring fre­
quently, until it deepens in color, about 5 minutes. Add
the chicken broth and epazote. Season with salt and
bring the soup to a simmer. Simmer for 45 minutes.
4 . Meanwhile, slice the pasilla chiles crossways into
%-in/i-cm rings. Shake the rings to remove the seeds.
Discard the stems and seeds.
5 . Heat the remaining 6 fl oz/i8o mL oil in a medium
sauteuse over medium-high heat until very hot but
not smoking. Add the chile slices and immediately
turn off the heat; transfer the slices at once with a
slotted spoon to a paper towel-lined plate. This step
needs to be done very fast to prevent the chiles from
burning.
6 . Return the heat to medium. Working in small batches,
fry the tortilla strips in the chile-infused oil until golden
and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on
paper towels.
7 . Remove the epazote sprigs from the soup prior to
serving. Serve the soup in heated bowls or cups and
garnish each serving with a generous portion of fried
tortillas, pasilla chiles, avocado, and queso fresco.
ch a p te r 14 » SO UPS 335
Chicken Rice Soup 7 . Heat the palm oil and garlic in a soup pot over medi­
um heat just until fragrant. Do not allow the garlic to
( C a n jo ) brown. Add salt, pepper, the strained stock, and the
rice and bring to a boil. Lower the heat, cover, and
Makes l gal/3.84 L
simmer until the rice is just al dente but still slightly
1 stewing hen (about 3 lb /1.36 kg), cut into 6 pieces undercooked, about 15 minutes.

2 f I o z/6 0 mL olive oil 8 . Add the chicken meat and corn and simmer until
the corn is tender and the chicken is heated through,
8 o z/2 2 7 g rough-cut Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
5 minutes more.
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped ginger
9 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Garnish the
2 bay leaves
soup with the cilantro and serve in heated bowls or
1 or 2 malagueta chiles or jalapenos, chopped cups, or rapidly cool and refrigerate for later use.
1 rosemary sprig

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

1 g al/3.84 L Chicken Stock (page 263)

ltb s p /1 5 m L palm oil

3 garlic cloves, minced

3 o z/8 5 g long-grain white rice, rinsed and drained

1 lb /4 5 4 g corn kernels, fresh or frozen

I V 2 o z/4 3 g cilantro, roughly chopped

1 . Blot the chicken pieces dry with a paper towel. Heat

the olive oil in a medium soup pot over medium
heat. Add the chicken pieces, skin side down, and
brown until golden on all sides, 12 to 14 minutes.
Remove the chicken from the pot.
2 . Add the mirepoix, ginger, bay leaves, and chiles.
Saute over medium^high heat, stirring frequently,
until lightly colored and fragrant, about 5 minutes.
3 . Return the chicken to the pot and add the rosemary,
salt, pepper, and stock. Bring the soup to a simmer
at i85°F/85°C, stirring and scraping the bottom of
the pan. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer until the
chicken is tender, 40 to 45 minutes.
4 . Remove the soup from the heat. Remove the chicken
pieces and reserve until cool enough to handle.
Strain the soup through a fine-mesh sieve and dis­
card the solids.
5 . Let the strained stock sit for a few minutes to allow
the fat to rise to the surface. Degrease the stock and
discard the fat.
6 . Remove and discard the skin and bones from the
chicken. Cut the meat into medium dice. Reserve it
to garnish the soup later.

STOCKS, SA U C E S , A N D SO UP S
yudhacookbook.com

Cream o f Tomato Soup
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice bacon (optional; see Notes)
1 lb /4 5 4 g minced Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
4 garlic cloves, minced
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
9 o z/2 5 5 g Blond Roux (see page 246)
2 lb /9 0 7 g chopped plum tomatoes,
fresh when in season or canned
24 f 1o z/7 2 0 mL tomato puree
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241), plus 2 cloves
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL heavy cream, hot
4 ts p /1 2 g salt, or as needed
V A ts p /2 .5 g ground white pepper, or as needed
GARNISH
8 o z/2 2 7 g Croutons (page 965)
1 . Render the bacon, if using, in a large sauce pot over
medium heat, about 10 minutes. Add the mirepoix
and garlic. Sweat the vegetables over medium-high
heat until tender, 8 to 10 minutes.
2 . Add the stock and bring to a boil. Whisk in the roux;
blend well. Add the tomatoes, tomato puree, and
sachet. Simmer at i85°F/85°C until the tomatoes are
cooked through, about 25 minutes.
3 . Remove and discard the sachet. Puree the soup until
it is smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Return
it to a simmer slowly over medium-low heat and sim­
mer for 8 to 10 minutes to adjust the consistency.
4 . The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly
cooled and refrigerated for later service.
5 . Return the soup to a simmer at i85°F/85°C for ser­
vice. Add the cream and season with salt and pepper.
Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serv­
ing with croutons.
NOTES: If not using bacon, sweat the mirepoix and garlic in
3 f l o z/9 0 mL vegetable oil.
If using a blender to puree the soup, the finished color
w ill be s lightly more orange than a soup pureed using
another method.
Cream o f Tom ato Soup w ith Rice: Add 1 lb /4 54 g cooked
long-grain w hite rice to the tom ato soup im m ediately
before serving.
CO
o
Cream of Broccoli Soup * c0
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
i-i
rt>
4 lb/1.81 kg broccoli
n
2 fl o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil | '
1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice White Mirepoix (page 243)
1 g al/3 .8 4 L Chicken Veloute (page 2 9 4) ^
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL heavy cream, hot
2 tbsp / 2 0 g salt, or as needed
V/2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper, or as needed
Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed
1 . Remove the florets from the broccoli and reserve
about 1 lb/454 g f°r garnish. Peel and dice the stems.
2.. Heat the butter or oil in a large sauce pot over medium
heat and add the mirepoix. Sweat until the onions are
translucent, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the unreserved broc­
coli and sweat until the stems are slightly tender, 10 to
15 minutes.
3 . Add the veloute and bring to a simmer at i85°F/85°C.
Add the sachet. Reduce the heat and simmer until
the vegetables are fully cooked, about 35 minutes. Stir
frequently and skim as needed.
4 . Cut the reserved florets into bite-size pieces, keeping
their shape, and blanch in boiling salted water until
tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Shock the florets in an ice bath
and reserve for service.
5 . Discard the sachet. Puree the soup until smooth.
Strain through a fine-mesh strainer and discard any
fibers remaining in the strainer. The soup is ready to
finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refriger­
ated for later service.
6 . Return the soup to a simmer at i 85°F/85°C. Add the
cream and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Heat
the broccoli florets in simmering stock or water and
garnish individual portions or the entire batch. Serve
in heated bowls or cups.
Cream o f Asparagus (Creme A rg e n te u il): Replace the
broccoli w ith an equal amount o f asparagus spears,
reserving some o f the asparagus tip s fo r garnishing.
Cream o f Celery (Creme de C e leri): Replace the broccoli
w ith an equal amount o f celery or celeriac. Garnish with
blanched small-dice celery.
ch a p te r 14 » S O U P S 339
 Wisconsin Cheddar
Cheese and Beer Soup
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
6 fI o z/1 8 0 mL clarified butter
6 o z/1 7 0 g minced onions
3 o z/8 5 g thinly sliced mushrooms
3 o z/8 5 g rough-cut celery
1 o z/2 8 g minced garlic
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
9 o z/2 5 5 g Blond Roux (see page 246)
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL beer (lager or brown ale)
2 lb /9 0 7 g grated Cheddar cheese
'A o z/1 4 g dry mustard
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream, hot
1 ts p /5 mL hot sauce, or as needed
1 ts p /5 mL Worcestershire sauce, or as needed
V A tb s p /1 5 g salt, or as needed
V A tsp /2.5 g ground black pepper, or as needed
GARNISH
8 o z/2 2 7 g Croutons (page 965), made from rye bread
1 . Melt the butter in a large soup pot or rondeau over me­
dium heat. Sweat the onions, mushrooms, celery, and
garlic until the onions are translucent, 8 to 10 minutes.
2 . Add the stock and heat to i85°F/85°C. Whisk in the
roux and thicken. Simmer at i85°F/85°C until the soup
has good flavor and a velvety texture, 30 minutes.
3 . Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and discard the
solids. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be
rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
4 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer.
Shortly before service, add the beer and cheese and
continue to heat the soup gently until the cheese
melts. Do not boil.
5 . Blend the dry mustard with enough water to make a
paste. Add the mustard mixture and the cream to the
soup and bring the soup back to a simmer. Adjust the
consistency with stock, if necessary. Season the soup
with hot sauce, Worcestershire, salt, and pepper.
6 . Serve in heated bowls or cups with the croutons on
the side.
340 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S
New England-Style
Clam Chowder
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
60 chowder clams, scrubbed
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Fish Stock (page 255), or as
needed, or water to make clam broth
8 o z/2 2 7 g salt pork, minced to a paste
8 o z/2 2 7 g minced onions
4 o z /1 13 g small-dice celery
12 o z/3 4 0 g Blond Roux (see page 246)
1 lb /4 5 4 g russet potatoes, peeled, small dice
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL heavy cream, hot
V A tb s p /1 5 g salt, or as needed
V A ts p /3 g ground black pepper, or as needed
2 ts p /1 0 mL hot sauce, or as needed
2 ts p /1 0 mL Worcestershire sauce, or as needed
1 . Steam the clams in the stock or water in a covered
rondeau until they open, about 10 minutes.
2.. Decant and strain the broth through a filter or dou­
ble layer of cheesecloth and reserve. Pick the clams
and chop and reserve the meat.
3 . Render the salt pork in a large sauce pot or rondeau
over medium heat until the fat has melted and the
meat is crisp, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the onions and
celery and sweat until translucent, 6 to 7 minutes.
4 . Combine the reserved clam broth with enough ad­
ditional stock or water to make 1 gal/3.84 L of liquid.
Add the liquid to the aromatics and bring to a sim­
mer. Gradually add the roux to the stock and whisk
to incorporate completely, working out any lumps.
5 . Simmer at i85°F/85°C for 30 minutes, skimming the
surface as necessary.
6 . Add the potatoes and sachet. Simmer until the pota­
toes are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. The soup is ready
to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrig­
erated for later service.
7 . Return the soup to a simmer for service. Add the
reserved clams and cream. Season the soup with salt,
pepper, hot sauce, and Worcestershire sauce. Serve
in heated bowls or cups.

Conch Chowder
Makes l gal/3 . 8 4 L
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg conch meat, ground
through a '/8-in/3-m m die
2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice
V / 2 o z/4 3 g butter
2 lb /9 0 7 g medium-dice Standard or
White Mirepoix (page 243)
1 Scotch bonnet, seeded, minced
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g nonwaxy potatoes,
1
peeled, medium dice
2 q t/1 .9 2 L w a te r
2 q t/1 .9 2 L Fish Stock (page 255)
1lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g peeled, seeded, and
medium-diced plum tomatoes
2 o z/5 7 g tomato paste
2 bay leaves
1 tb sp /3 g chopped fresh thyme
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Combine the conch with the lemon juice in a large
nonreactive bowl and marinate for 30 minutes.
2 . Melt the butter in a large sauce pot over medium
heat. Add the mirepoix and sweat until the vegetables
are tender, about 7 minutes. Add the Scotch bonnet
and potatoes and cook for 2 to 3 minutes longer.
3 . Add the water, stock, marinated conch, tomato
products, bay leaves, and thyme and simmer at
i85°F/85°C until the potatoes are very tender and
the soup is well flavored, about 25 minutes.
4 . Season with salt. Pepper may not be needed because
Scotch bonnet peppers are extremely hot. Remove
and discard the bay leaves. Serve in heated bowls or
cups.
in
O
Corn Chowder ^
Makes 1 gal/ 3 . 8 4 L
•-i
8 o z/2 2 7 g salt pork or bacon, minced
n>
n
6 o z/1 7 0 g small-dice onions
6 o z/1 7 0 g small-dice celery ^
4o z/11 3g sm a ll-d ic eg re en p e p p ers ^
4 o z /1 13 g small-dice red peppers
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
9 o z/2 5 5 g Blond Roux (see page 246)
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g corn kernels, fresh or frozen
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g nonstarchy
potatoes, peeled, small dice
1 bay leaf
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL heavy cream, hot
2 tbsp / 2 0 g salt, or as needed
2 ts p /4 g ground white pepper, as needed
2 ts p /1 0 mL hot sauce
2 ts p /1 0 mL Worcestershire sauce
1 . Render the salt pork in a large sauce pot over medi-
um-low heat until the lean portions of salt pork are
slightly crisp, about 6 minutes.
2 . Add the onions, celery, and peppers and sweat until
softened, 5 to 7 minutes.
3 . Add the stock and bring to a simmer at i85°F/85°C.
Whisk in the blond roux, working out any lumps.
Simmer until lightly thickened.
4 . Puree half of the corn and whisk it into the soup.
Add the potatoes, the remaining whole corn, and the
bay leaf, and simmer at i 85°F/85°C until the corn
and potatoes are tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
5 . Add the cream and stir to combine. Heat just until
it begins to simmer, about 10 minutes. Remove and
discard the bay leaf. The soup is ready to finish now,
or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later
service.
6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a sim­
mer. Season with salt, white pepper, hot sauce, and
Worcestershire sauce and serve in heated bowls or
cups.
ch a p te r 14 » SO U P S 341
 Pacific Seafood 4 . Mix the cornstarch with some water to the consis­
tency of heavy cream and add this to the soup. Add
Chowder enough slurry to produce a light body. Cook until the
soup thickens, about 5 minutes. Remove the sachet.
Makes l gal/3.84 L
The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL dry white wine cooled and refrigerated for later service.

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL water 5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer

1 Sachet d’Epices (see page 2 4 1) containing
at i85°F/85°C. Add the diced fish and the shrimp and
B cloves crushed garlic; 1 o z/2 8 g peeled cook until the seafood is cooked through, about 5
ginger; 4 stalks lemongrass, cut into 1-in / minutes. Add the roasted chayote and heat through.
3-cm pieces; and 5 kaffir lime leaves
6 . Add the lemon juice and adjust seasoning with salt.
2 q t/1 .9 2 L clam juice
Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serv­
I V 2 q t/1 .4 4 L coconut milk ing with basil.
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream, hot

2 o z/5 7 g Red Curry Paste (page 370)

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g peeled, medium-diced taro root

1 chayote, pitted and cut into medium dice

2 tb sp /3 0 mL vegetable oil

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

1 o z/2 8 g cornstarch

1 lb /4 5 4 g firm-fleshed fish, such as sea

bass, skinned, cut into medium dice

1 lb /4 5 4 g shrimp (2 1 /2 6 count), peeled,

deveined, cut into medium dice

Juice of 1 lemon

GARNISH

4 fI o z/1 4 g basil leaves, chiffonade

1 . In a large nonreactive pot, combine the wine, water,

and sachet and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the clam
juice, coconut milk, and cream; return to a simmer
at i85°F/85°C and mix in the curry paste.
2 . Add the taro and simmer until tender, about 15
minutes.
3 . Meanwhile, toss the chayote with the oil and season
with salt and black pepper. Roast the diced chayote
in a 35o°F/i77°C oven until tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
Reserve.

342 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S

 Manhattan^Style Clam
Chowder
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
10 lb /4.54 kg chowder clams, washed
3 o z/8 5 g salt pork, minced to a paste
1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
4 o z/1 1 3 g medium-dice leeks, white parts only
4 o z/1 1 3 g medium-dice green peppers
1 ts p /3 g minced garlic
12 o z/3 4 0 g russet potatoes, peeled,
cut into medium dice
1 bay leaf
1 thyme sprig
1 oregano sprig
1 lb /4 5 4 g plum tomatoes, peeled,
seeded, cut into medium dice
Salt, as needed
Ground white pepper, as needed
’/2 ts p /2 .5 0 mL hot sauce
V 2 ts p /2.50 mL Worcestershire sauce
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g Old Bay seasoning
1 . In a covered pot, steam the clams in 1 gal/3.84 L water
until they open, about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the
clam meat from the shells; chop and reserve. Strain
and reserve the clam broth.
2 . Render the salt pork in a large sauce pot over medium
heat until the fat has melted and the meat is slightly
crisp, about 6 minutes. Add the mirepoix, leeks, and
peppers and sweat until softened, about 5 minutes.
3 . Add the garlic and saute for 1 minute, until aromatic.
Add the reserved clam broth, potatoes, bay leaf,
thyme, and oregano and simmer over medium to me-
dium-low heat until all of the vegetables are tender,
about 25 minutes.
4 . Remove and discard the herbs. Add the tomatoes.
The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly
cooled and refrigerated for later service.
5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer at
i85°F/85°C. Degrease the soup. Add the reserved clams
and season with salt, white pepper, hot sauce, Worces­
tershire sauce, and Old Bay. Serve in heated bowls or
cups.
344 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S
Puree o f Lentil Soup
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
8 o z/2 2 7 g minced bacon
1 lb /4 5 4 g minced Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
2 lb /9 0 7 g brown lentils, rinsed and sorted
5 q t/4 .8 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
2 tbsp / 2 0 g salt, or as needed
1 tsp / 2 g ground black pepper, as needed
2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice
GARNISH
8 o z/2 2 7 g Croutons (page 965)
1 o z/2 8 g chopped chervil
1 . Render the bacon in a large stockpot over low heat
until the fat has melted and the meat is slightly crisp,
about 10 minutes. Reserve the bits of bacon for gar­
nish or leave in the soup for additional flavor.
2 .. Add the mirepoix and cook over medium heat until
tender and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes.
3 . Add the lentils and allow them to lightly toast before
adding the stock. Add the stock and sachet to the
pot. Bring to a simmer at i85°F/85°C and skim as
needed.
4 . Simmer the soup until the lentils are tender, 30 to
40 minutes. Remove from the heat and discard the
sachet. Season with salt and pepper.
5 . Strain the mixture, reserving the soup broth. Puree
the solids in a food mill or with an immersion blend­
er. Add enough of the reserved soup broth to achieve
the proper consistency.
6 . Season with lemon juice. The soup is ready to finish
now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for
later service.
7 . Return the soup to a simmer at i85°F/85°C for ser­
vice and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve
in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serving
with the reserved bacon, croutons, and chervil.

Puree o f Split Pea
Soup
Makes l gal/ 3 . 8 4 L
8 o z/2 2 7 g minced bacon
1 lb /4 5 4 g minced Standard or
White Mirepoix (page 243)
2 tsp / 6 g minced garlic
5 q t/4 .8 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g green split peas
8 o z/2 2 7 g nonwaxy potatoes, peeled, large dice
1 ham hock
1 bay leaf
2 tbsp / 2 0 g salt, or as needed
1 tsp / 2 g ground black pepper, or as needed
GARNISH
1 lb /4 5 4 g Croutons (page 965)
1 . Render the bacon in a large sauce pot over medium
heat until the fat has melted and the meat is slightly
crisp, about 10 minutes. Remove the bits of bacon
and reserve for garnish.
2 . Add the mirepoix to the rendered fat and saute until
the onions become transparent, 8 to 10 minutes.
* Add the garlic and saute for another minute until
fragrant; do not brown the garlic.
3 . Add the stock, split peas, potatoes, ham hock, and
bay leaf and bring to a simmer at i85°F/85°C. Sim­
mer the soup until the peas are tender, about 45
minutes. Remove the bay leaf. Remove the ham hock
and dice the lean meat, if desired, and reserve for
finishing.
4 . Puree the soup until smooth using a food mill or
immersion blender. Add back the ham hock meat,
if desired. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly
cooled and refrigerated for later service.
5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer
at i85°F/85°C. Serve it in heated bowls or cups and
garnish each serving with croutons and bacon, if
desired.
Puree o f Yellow S p lit Pea Soup: Replace the green sp lit
peas w ith an equal amount o f yellow sp lit peas.
m
o
Caribbean-Style
Puree o f Black Bean ^
n
1—1*
M akes 1 g a l/ 1 .8 4 L
rD
3 o z /8 5 g small-dice salt pork ^
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
2 lb /9 0 7 g dried black beans, soaked overnight
V / 2 g al/5 .7 6 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
2 smoked ham hocks
I
5 ' / 2 f I o z /1 6 5 mL dry sherry
V 2 tsp / 1 g ground allspice
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
GARNISH
13 o z/3 6 9 g sour cream
o z/1 5 6 g peeled, seeded, and
5 '/ 2
medium-diced plum tomatoes
1 o z /2 8 g thinly sliced green onions, cut on the bias
1 . Render the salt pork in a large sauce pot over low
heat until the fat has melted and the meat is slightly
crisp, about 10 minutes.
2 . Add the mirepoix and sweat until the onions are
translucent, 5 to 7 minutes.
3 . Add the beans, stock, sachet, and ham hocks. Sim­
mer until the beans are very tender, 3 to 4 hours.
4 . Remove the ham hocks and dice the lean meat to
add as garnish, if desired.
5 . Puree half of the beans using a food mill or food
processor. Return the bean puree to the soup. Stir in
the sherry and allspice. Season with salt and pepper.
The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly
cooled and refrigerated for later service.
6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil.
Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serv­
ing with the diced ham hock meat, if using, the sour
cream, tomatoes, and green onions.
ch a p te r 14 » SO U P S 345
Senate Bean Soup
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dried navy beans, soaked overnight
I V 2 g al/5.76 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
2 smoked ham hocks
2 ft o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
6 o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice onions
6 o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice carrots
6 o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice celery
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 2 4 1)
6 to 8 drops hot sauce
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Combine the beans, stock, and ham hocks in a stock-
pot. Simmer over medium heat until the beans are
almost tender, about 2 hours.
2 . Strain the broth and reserve. Reserve the beans
separately. Dice the lean meat of the ham hocks and
reserve for garnish.
3 . Heat the oil in the same stockpot. Add the onions,
carrots, and celery and sweat over medium heat
until the onions are translucent, 4 to 5 minutes. Add
the garlic and saute until it is aromatic, about 1
minute.
4 . Return the beans and broth to the pot. Add the
sachet. Simmer at i85°F/85°C until the beans are
tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove and discard the
sachet.
5 . Puree half of the soup in a blender or with a food
mill. Combine the puree and reserved ham with the
remaining soup. Adjust the consistency with addi­
tional broth or water if necessary. The soup is ready
to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrig­
erated for later service.
6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer
over low heat until heated through, 6 to 8 minutes.
Season with hot sauce, salt, and pepper.
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S
Potage Garbure
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
2 o z/5 7 g ground salt pork
2 f I o z/6 0 mL olive oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g finely chopped onions
8 o z/2 2 7 g finely chopped carrots
12 o z/3 4 0 g finely chopped leeks,
white and pale green parts
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
12 o z/3 4 0 g thinly sliced nonwaxy potatoes
12 o z/3 4 0 g thinly sliced green cabbage
12 o z/3 4 0 g peeled, seeded, and chopped tomatoes
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
GARNISH
8 o z /2 2 7 g Croutons (page 965)
1 . Render the salt pork with the olive oil in a soup pot
over medium heat until the fat melts from the pork,
12 to 15 minutes.
2 . Add the onions, carrots, and leeks and stir until the
vegetables are coated with fat. Cover the pan and
smother over low heat, stirring from time to time,
until the vegetables are tender and translucent, 10 to
12 minutes.
3 . Add the stock, potatoes, cabbage, and tomatoes and
simmer over low to medium heat until the potatoes
are just starting to fall apart, 20 to 25 minutes. Skim
the surface of the soup as needed during cooking
time. Taste the soup periodically to monitor the
cooking time and adjust seasoning as the soup sim­
mers.
4 . Puree the soup to a coarse texture. The soup is ready
to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrig­
erated for later service.
5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil.
Taste the soup and season with salt and pepper.
Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serv­
ing with a crouton.

Vichyssoise
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
3 tb s p /4 5 mL vegetable oil
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g finely chopped leeks, white parts only
6 o z/1 7 0 g finely chopped onions
3 lb /1.36 kg nonwaxy potatoes, peeled, medium dice
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241)
1 tbsp / 1 0 g salt, plus more as needed
Ground white pepper, as needed
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL half-and-half
2 o z/5 7 g snipped chives
1 . Heat the oil in a medium stockpot. Add the leeks
and onions and sweat over medium-low heat until
translucent, 2 to 3 minutes.
2 . Increase the heat to high. Add the potatoes, stock,
sachet, 1 tablespoon salt, and white pepper. Bring to
a full boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and sim­
mer until the potatoes are soft, about 30 minutes.
Remove and discard the sachet.
3 . Puree the soup in batches using a blender or food
mill. Rapidly cool the soup and refrigerate until
service.
4 . To finish the soup for service, stir in the half-and-
half and chives. Adjust seasoning with salt and white
pepper. Serve in chilled bowls or cups.
Shrimp Bisque
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g shrimp shells
3 o z/8 5 g butter
1 lb /4 5 4 g onions, minced
3 garlic cloves, minced
10. To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil.
1 tbsp / 6 g paprika, or as needed
2 o z/5 7 g tomato paste
3 f I o z/9 0 mL brandy
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Fish or Shrimp Veloute (page 2 9 4)
Salt, as needed
in
O
Ground black pepper, as needed
£
1 q t/9 6 0 mL heavy cream, hot ^
1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g shrimp, peeled and deveined CD
V 2 t s p / l g Old Bay seasoning
V 2 ts p /2 .5 0 mL hot sauce, or as needed
V 2 ts p /2 .5 0 mL Worcestershire sauce, or as needed ^
4 f I o z /1 2 0 mL dry sherry
1 . Rinse the shrimp shells thoroughly and drain.
Saute the shrimp shells in 2 oz/57 g ° f the butter in
a medium stockpot over medium-high heat until
the shells turn bright pink, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove
the shells from the pot and reserve.
2 . Reduce the heat to medium and add the onions.
Saute until the onions are translucent, about 2
minutes.
3 . Add the garlic, paprika, and tomato paste and cook
until there is a sweet, cooked-tomato aroma, about
2 minutes.
4 . Deglaze with the brandy and reduce until nearly
dry, 2 to 3 minutes. Add back the cooked shrimp
shells.
5 . Add the veloute and simmer over medium-low
heat, until the bisque is intensely rust colored and
has thickened slightly, about 45 minutes. Season
with salt and pepper as the bisque simmers.
6 . Strain the bisque through a fine-mesh strainer, or
use the wringing method (see page 329).
7 . Return the bisque to a simmer and add the cream.
8 . Cut the shrimp into small dice and saute in the
remaining 1 oz/28 g butter over medium-high heat,
until cooked through and pink, 1 to 2 minutes. Add
the shrimp to the bisque and simmer for 5 minutes.
9 . Add the Old Bay, hot sauce, and Worcestershire
sauce and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rap­
idly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
Add the sherry and serve in heated bowls or cups.
c h a p te r 14 » SO UP S 347
Lobster Bisque
( B is q u e d e H o m a r d )
M akes 1 g a l/ 3 .8 4 L
3 flo z /9 0 m L o liv e o il
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g small-dice onions
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g small-dice carrots
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g small-dice celery
8 o z/2 2 7 g thinly sliced leeks
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg small-dice fennel
6 garlic cloves, crushed
6 lb 5 o z/2.86 kg lobster shells,
cleaned, roasted, and crushed
4 o z /1 13 g tomato paste
2 V i fl o z/7 5 mL brandy
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL dry white wine
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Fish Stock (page 255)
r / 2 q t / 1 .4 4 L water
4 o z /1 13 g Italian rice (Arborio or Carnaroli)
5 o z/1 4 2 g Blond Roux (see page 246)
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL heavy cream, hot
Salt, as needed
Cayenne, as needed
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice
1 o z/2 8 g tarragon leaves, chopped
1 . Heat the oil in a large soup pot or rondeau over
medium heat. Add the onions and sweat for 5
minutes. Add the carrots, celery, leeks, fennel, and
garlic and sweat for 5 minutes longer.
2 . Add the lobster shells and sweat until the shells are
very fragrant, about 10 minutes.
3 . Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until it
turns a rusty brown color.
4 . Add the brandy and flambe.
5 . Add the wine and reduce it by half, about 5 minutes.
6 . Add the stock and water and bring to a boil. Re­
duce to a simmer, add the rice, and cook, covered,
until the rice is very soft, about 45 minutes.
7 . Strain the soup through a fine-mesh strainer,
return it to a clean pot, and bring it to a boil.
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
8 . Whisk in the roux and cook until the soup thick­
ens, 10 minutes more, stirring out any lumps.
9 . Add the cream. Reduce at a simmer to the desired
consistency. Season with salt, cayenne, and lemon
juice. Pass it through a strainer again, if necessary.
The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rap­
idly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
10 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil.
Add the tarragon and serve in heated bowls or
cups.
Chicken and Shrimp
Gumbo
M akes 1 g a l/ 3 .8 4 L
1 tb s p /1 5 mL vegetable oil
4 o z/1 1 3 g andouille sausage, small dice
8 o z/2 2 7 g boneless, skinless
chicken breast, medium dice
8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice onions
5 o z/1 4 2 g medium-dice green peppers
5 o z/1 4 2 g medium-dice celery
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced jalapenos
3 'A o z/9 9 g thinly sliced green onions, cut on the bias
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped garlic
5 o z/1 4 2 g sliced okra
8o z/2 2 7 g peeled, seeded, and
medium-diced plum tomatoes
5 o z/1 4 2 g all-purpose flour, baked until dark brown
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
2 bay leaves
1 tsp / 2 g dried oregano
1 tsp / 2 g onion powder
V 2 tsp / 1 g dried thyme
V i t s p /l g dried basil
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g shrimp, peeled, deveined, and chopped
13 o z/3 6 9 g cooked long-grain white rice
1 tb sp /9 g file powder
 m
O

1 . Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed soup pot over Gazpacho Andaluz £
medium-high heat and add the andouille. Saute, stir­
ring occasionally, until the sausage starts to become ( A r id a lu c ia n
a>
firm, about 1 minute.
n
2 . Add the chicken and sear until it begins to lose its G a z p a c h o , 1—*•

raw appearance, 2 to 3 minutes. Makes 1 gal/3.84 L

rt>
3 . Add the onions, peppers, celery, jalapenos, green m
8lb /3.63 kg peeled, seeded, and
onions, garlic, okra, and tomatoes. Saute, stirring medium-diced plum tomatoes
occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and the
1 lb /4 5 4 g small-diced green peppers
onions are translucent, 5 to 7 minutes.
1 lb /4 5 4 g small-diced, peeled cucumbers
4 . Add the flour and cook for 1 minute, stirring con­
stantly. Add the stock and stir constantly to work out 8 garlic cloves, crushed

any lumps. 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine vinegar

5 . Add the bay leaves, oregano, onion powder, thyme, 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL olive oil
basil, salt, and pepper. Simmer for 30 minutes.
Salt, as needed
6 . Add the shrimp and rice and simmer for 2 minutes Ground black pepper, as needed
more. Whisk in the file powder. Be sure to blend
well, and do not allow the soup to return to a boil. GARNISH

The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly 4 o z /1 13 g small-dice tomatoes

cooled and refrigerated for later service.
4 o z/1 1 3 g small-dice green peppers
7 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer.
4 o z /1 1 3 g small-dice cucumbers
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
Remove the bay leaves. Serve in heated bowls or
1 . Combine the tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, garlic,
cups.
vinegar, oil, salt, and pepper in a nonreactive con­
tainer. Cover, refrigerate, and marinate overnight.
2 . Puree the marinated ingredients in a blender or food
mill, working in batches if necessary. Strain through
a fine-mesh sieve. Adjust seasoning with salt and
pepper.
3 . Chill the soup thoroughly.
4 . Serve the soup in chilled bowls or cups and garnish
each serving with diced tomatoes, peppers, and
cucumbers.

c h a p te r 14 » SO U P S 349
 Ham Bone and Co Hard
Greens Soup
Makes l gal/3.84 L Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced salt pork
3 fl o z/9 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice onions
4 o z/1 1 3 g small-dice celery
5 o z/1 4 2 g all-purpose flour
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
3 ham hocks
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241)
1 lb /4 5 4 g trimmed collard greens, chopped, blanched
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Render the salt pork in a stockpot over medium heat
until the fat has melted and the meat is slightly crisp,
5 to 7 minutes.
2 . Add the butter, onions, and celery, and sweat until
the onions are translucent, about 6 minutes.
3 . Add the flour and cook for several minutes to make a
pale roux, stirring frequently.
4 . Gradually add the chicken stock, whisking out any
lumps.
5 . Add the ham hocks and sachet, bring to a simmer,
and cook for 1 hour. Add the greens to the soup. Sim­
mer until tender, about 30 minutes.
6 . Remove the hocks and sachet. Remove the lean meat
from the hocks and cut it into small dice. Return
the diced meat to the soup and season with salt and
pepper. The soup is ready to serve now, or it may be
rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
7 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil.
Serve in heated bowls or cups.
350 STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S
Chinese Hot and Sour
Soup (Suan La Tang)
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
1 tb sp /9 g minced ginger
3A o z/21 g thinly sliced green onions
8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-ground pork butt
1 o z/2 8 g black fungus, soaked, short julienne
I V 2 o z/4 3 g lily buds, soaked, short julienne
8 o z/2 2 7 g savoy cabbage chiffonade
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice firm tofu
3Yz q t/3 .3 6 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
2 fl o z/6 0 mL dark soy sauce
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL rice vinegar
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
3/4 o z/21 g ground black pepper
2 'A o z/6 4 g cornstarch
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL water
3 eggs, lightly beaten
2 tb sp /3 0 mL sesame oil
GARNISH
1 o z/2 8 g thinly sliced green onions
1 . Heat the vegetable oil in a wok or soup pot over
medium-high heat. Add the ginger and green onions
and stir-fry until aromatic, about 30 seconds.
2 . Add the pork and stir-fry until it is cooked through, 4
to 5 minutes.
3 . Add the black fungus, lily buds, and cabbage and stir-
fry until the cabbage is tender, 3 to 4 minutes.
4 . Add the tofu, stock, soy sauce, vinegar, salt, and pep­
per and bring the soup to a boil.
5 . Mix the cornstarch and water together. Slowly add
the slurry to the boiling soup, stirring constantly.
Slowly stir the eggs into the soup.
6 . Hold hot, but do not boil.
7 . Add the sesame oil. Serve in heated bowls or cups
and garnish each serving with green onions.
 C/3
O

Spicy Beef Soup U . Add the green onions, red pepper paste, soybean
£
paste, soy sauce, cabbage, and reserved beef. Return
a n g the soup to a boil, stirring occasionally. i-i
CD
Makes 1 gal/ 3 . 8 4 L 7 . In a separate heavy skillet, heat the sesame oil over n
medium heat. Add the garlic and stir-fry until aro­ 1—*•
7 lb 8 o z/3.40 kg beef bones
matic, about 30 seconds. Add the bean sprouts and
n>
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g beef flank, trimmed, fa t reserved stir-fry until cooked, but still firm, about 3 minutes.
C/3
1 gal 16 fl o z/4 .3 2 L water Add the cooked sprouts to the soup.

1 lb /4 5 4 g onions, peeled and quartered
1 o z/2 8 g ginger, peeled, cut into '/8 -in /3 -m m slices
2 o z/5 7 g beef fat
8 . Add the eggs to the soup and stir very gently to cre­
ate long ribbons. Taste and season with salt and pep­
per. Serve in heated bowls or cups.

1 o z/2 8 g all-purpose flour

1 tbsp / 6 g thinly sliced green onions

4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL Korean red pepper paste

8 fI o z/2 4 0 mL Korean soybean paste

1 ts p /5 mL light soy sauce

10 o z/2 8 4 g green cabbage chiffonade

V / 2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL sesame oil

1 ts p /3 g minced garlic

3 o z/8 5 g bean sprouts, cut into l-in /3 -c m lengths

2 eggs, lightly beaten

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

1 . Blanch the beef bones in a large stockpot. Drain and

rinse.
2 .. Return the bones to the stockpot and add the beef
and water. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer.
Simmer over medium-low heat until the beef is ten­
der, about 1 hour 15 minutes. When the beef is ten­
der, remove it from the pot and plunge it into cold
water for 15 minutes. Pull the beef into i-in/3-cm
strips. Refrigerate, covered.
3 . Add the onions and ginger to the broth and sim­
mer over medium-low heat for about 1 hour. At this
point, the broth can be strained, rapidly cooled, and
refrigerated for service.
4 . To finish the soup for service, skim the broth and
return it to a boil.
5 . Render the beef fat in the reserved fat, browning
slightly. Strain the melted fat and transfer 2 tbsp/30
mL to a stockpot. Add the flour to create a roux, stir­
ring over low heat for 5 minutes. Gradually add the
hot broth, stirring frequently, and bring to boil.

chapter 14 » S O U P S 351
 o

Miso Soup Thai Chicken Soup c

"d
Makes l gal/3.84 L
w ith Coconut Milk and ^
V 2 o z/1 4 g dried wakame seaweed

1 g al/3 .8 4 L Ichi Ban Dashi (page 266) Galangal Q.

Makes 1 gal/3.84 L T3
8fl o z/2 4 0 mL miso (use aka [red] miso for
rD
summer and shiro [white] for winter)
cn
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice tofu
3 'A o z/9 2 g minced shallots
GARNISH
I V 2 ts p /4 .5 0 g minced garlic
V A o z/3 5 g thinly sliced green onions, cut on the bias
2 o z/5 7 g minced lemongrass

2 tb sp /3 0 mL Thai chili paste

1 . Soak the wakame in warm water for 30 minutes.
Drain it, pour boiling water over it, and plunge it V A o z/4 3 g galangal, sliced 'A in/ 6 mm thick

into very cold water (no ice). Drain well. Trim off 18 kaffir lime leaves, bruised
any tough parts. Chop the remaining seaweed roughly V A q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
(V2 in/i cm maximum). Wrap in doubled rinsed
1 tb s p /1 5 g sugar, or as needed
cheesecloth and twist to extract excess moisture.
f I o z/1 8 0 mL fish sauce, or as needed
2 . Place the dashi in a large stockpot or wok. Temper
.
6

the miso into the dashi gradually, whisking 2 q t/1 .9 2 L coconut milk

constantly to combine completely. 2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless, skinless chicken

thighs, cut into thin strips
3 . Bring the dashi to a simmer, add the tofu and
chopped wakame and simmer for 1 minute. The 6 V 2 o z/1 8 4 g drained canned straw mushrooms, halved
soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly 4 o z/1 1 3 g peeled, seeded, and medium-dice tomatoes
cooled and refrigerated for later service.
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lime juice, or as needed
4 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil.
1 tbsp / 1 0 g salt, or as needed
Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serv­
ing with green onions. GARNISH

40 cilantro sprigs

1 . Heat the oil in a soup pot over medium heat and add
the shallots, garlic, lemongrass, and chili paste. Cook
until aromatic, about 30 seconds.
2 . Add the galangal, lime leaves, stock, sugar, fish
sauce, and coconut milk. Bring to a boil, reduce the
heat, and simmer for 15 minutes.
3 . Strain the broth into a pot and discard the solids.
Add the chicken, mushrooms, and tomatoes. Sim­
mer until the chicken is cooked, 3 to 5 minutes.
4 . Add the lime juice and salt and adjust seasoning with
sugar and fish sauce. The soup is ready to finish now,
or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated.
5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer.
Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serv­
ing with cilantro sprigs.

c h a p te r 14 » SO UPS 353
Thai Hot and Sour Wonton Soup
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
Soup (Tom Yum Kung)
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L WONTONS

8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-grind pork

2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g finely chopped Chinese cabbage
2 fl o z/6 0 mL Red Curry Paste (page 370)
1 o z/2 8 g thinly sliced green onions
1 lb /4 5 4 g shrimp (3 1 /3 6 count), peeled,
deveined, halved lengthwise; reserve the shells 2 tsp / 6 g minced ginger

1 tbsp / 8 g minced Thai bird chiles 1 tb s p /1 5 mL light soy sauce

1 g al/3 .8 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 1 tb sp /1 5 mL sesame oil

4 stalks lemongrass, bruised, cut V2 ts p /1 .5 g salt, or as needed

into 3-in/8-cm lengths
1 o z/2 8 g galangal, sliced V b in /3 mm thick
12 kaffir lime leaves, bruised
14 o z/3 9 7 g plum tomatoes, cut into
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g drained canned straw
mushrooms, halved
1 tb sp /1 5g su g a r
V* tsp /0.5 g ground white pepper, or as needed
48 wonton wrappers, 3-in/8-cm squares
8 wedges each
1 egg, slightly beaten
SOUP

4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL fish sauce, or as needed 2 tb sp /3 0 mL vegetable or peanut oil

1 o z/2 8 g sugar 2 o z/5 7 g thinly sliced green onions, cut on the bias

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL lime juice 1 ts p /3 g minced ginger

V/2 o z/4 3 g cilantro leaves 1 g al/3 .8 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263)

2 V 2 f I o z/7 5 mL dark soy sauce

I . Heat the oil in a large sauce pot over medium heat. 'A tsp / 1 g salt, or as needed
Add the curry paste and cook, stirring, for 1 minute;
Pinch ground white pepper, or as needed
do not let the paste brown.
6 o z/1 7 0 g stemmed spinach
2 . Add the reserved shrimp shells, chiles, stock, lem­
ongrass, galangal, and lime leaves. Simmer for 10 4 o z/1 1 3 g ham, f ine julienne

minutes. OMELET
3 . Strain the broth into a clean pot and discard the sol­ 1 tb sp /1 5 mL vegetable or peanut oil
ids. Add the tomatoes, mushrooms, fish sauce, and
4 eggs, beaten
sugar and bring to a boil.
4 . Mix in the lime juice and adjust seasoning with fish
1 . To make the wonton filling, combine the pork, cab­
sauce. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be
bage, green onions, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil,
rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
salt, sugar, and pepper and mix well with a spoon
5 . Poach the shrimp in some of the broth until they are or work by hand until thoroughly combined. Keep
opaque and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove chilled until ready to fill the wontons.
the shrimp from the liquid and cool on a sheet pan.
2 . To make the wontons, spoon 1 tsp/5 mL of the filling
(The poaching liquid can be added back to the soup.)
mixture into the center of each wrapper and brush
Toss the cooled shrimp with the cilantro and reserve
the edges of the wrapper lightly with the beaten egg.
for service.
Fold the wonton in half to make a triangle and then
6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. Add overlap the points, pressing them in place. Keep
the shrimp and cilantro mixture to a heated bowl or wontons covered as they are being prepared.
cup and ladle the broth on top. Serve immediately.

STOCKS, S A U CES, AND S O U P S


3 . Cook the wontons in batches in boiling salted water
until cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and re­
serve, covered.
4 . To make the soup, heat the oil in a soup pot over
medium-high heat. Add the green onions and ginger
and saute, stirring frequently, until aromatic, about 1
minute.
5 . Add the stock and bring to a boil. Season with soy
sauce, salt, and pepper. The soup is ready to finish
now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for
later service.
6 . Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil.
Add the spinach and blanch for 30 seconds. Drain
and rinse in cold water until chilled. Drain again,
squeeze out the excess water, and chop coarsely.
Reserve.
7 . To make the omelet, heat the oil in a medium sau-
teuse or omelet pan. Cook the eggs, stirring con­
stantly, until they are set. Flatten the eggs into an
even layer and roll the omelet out of the pan. Allow
it to cool slightly and then cut into a fine julienne.
8 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer.
Add the spinach, ham, and omelet. Simmer just long
enough to heat, about 2 minutes.
9 . Reheat the wontons if necessary and place three in
a heated bowl or cup. Ladle the hot soup over the
wontons and serve at once.
Tuscan White Bean
and Escaroie Soup
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
2 tb s p /3 0 m L o liv e o il
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice pancetta
6 o z/1 7 0 g small-dice onion
1 o z/2 8 g minced shallot
12 o z/3 4 0 g dried navy beans,
soaked overnight and drained
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g canned tomatoes, seeded and chopped
2 V i q t/2 .4 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
4 o z /1 13 g small-dice carrot
ga
Salt, as needed
£
Ground black pepper, as needed
i- i
8 o z/2 2 7 g escaroie, finely chopped O)
n
8 o z/2 2 7 g tubettini pasta i—*•
Olive oil, as needed •"d
o>
l 3/ f o z/5 0 g sliced garlic
GARNISH
20 Croutons (page 965)
V / i o z/4 3 g grated Parmesan
1 . Heat the oil in a large, heavy sauce pot over medium-
high heat and add the pancetta. Cook until lightly
browned, about 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Re­
move the pancetta with a slotted spoon and drain on
paper towels; reserve. Pour off and reserve all but 1
tbsp/15 mL of the fat.
2 . Reduce the heat to low, add the onion and shallot,
and cook until softened and slightly golden in color,
5 to 6 minutes.
3 . Add the drained beans, tomatoes, stock, sachet, and
cooked pancetta. Simmer until the beans are almost
tender, about 1 hour.
4 . Add the carrot and cook until both the beans and
carrots are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Season with salt
and pepper and reserve warm. The soup is ready to
finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refriger­
ated for later service.
5 . Blanch the escaroie in boiling salted water about 1
minute, shock in ice water, and reserve.
6 . Cook the tubettini to al dente in boiling salted water.
Shock in ice water, drain well, and toss lightly with
olive oil.
7 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer.
Brown the garlic in the reserved pancetta fat in a
sauteuse over medium-high heat, 2 to 3 minutes.
Add to the soup. Add the escaroie and pasta and
cook until heated through, about 3 minutes. Adjust
seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve in heated
bowls or cups and garnish each serving with crou­
tons and grated Parmesan.
chapter 14 » S O U P S 355
Vegetable Soup,
Emilia-Romagna
Style (Minestrone alia
Emiliana)
Makes l gal/3.84 L
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL olive oil
1 lb /4 5 4 g thinly sliced onions
1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice carrots
1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice celery
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g russet potatoes,
peeled, cut into small dice
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice zucchini
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice green beans
2 lb /9 0 7 g shredded savoy cabbage
1 g al/3 .8 4 L Brodo (page 266)
2 pieces Parmesan rind, 3-in/8-cm squares, cleaned
1 lb /4 5 4 g canned plum tomatoes, with juices
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
10 o z/2 8 4 g Great Northern or navy
beans, cooked (see page 1161)
GARNISH
2 o z/5 7 g grated Parmesan, or as needed
4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed
1 . Melt the butter with the oil in a large soup pot over
low heat. Add the onions and sweat until wilted and
soft, about 15 minutes. Add the carrots and cook for
3 minutes.
2 . Add the vegetables in the following sequence, al­
lowing each to soften before adding the next: celery,
potatoes, zucchini, green beans, and cabbage. Do not
let the vegetables brown.
3 . Add the brodo, cheese rind, and tomatoes with their
juices. Partially cover and cook at a low simmer until
the vegetables are just cooked, 20 to 25 minutes. Add
more broth as necessary. The soup is ready to finish
now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for
later service.
4 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil and
remove the Parmesan rinds, if desired. Taste and
season with salt and pepper. Add the beans and serve
H i
with grated Parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil. ^
I—»«
T 3
Minestrone $
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
2 o z/5 7 g salt pork, minced
2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil
1 lb /4 5 4 g paysanne-cut onion
8 o z/2 2 7 g paysanne-cut celery
8 o z/2 2 7 g paysanne-cut carrot
8 o z/2 2 7 g paysanne-cut green pepper
8 o z/2 2 7 g paysanne-cut green cabbage
V2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic
1 lb /4 5 4 g tomato concasse
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g cooked chickpeas (see page 1161)
6 o z/1 7 0 g cooked black-eyed peas (see page 1161)
6 o z/1 7 0 g cooked ditalini (see page 815)
GARNISH
5 o z/1 4 2 g grated Parmesan
1 . Render the salt pork with the oil in a large sauce pot
over medium heat until the fat has melted but the
meat has not browned, about 10 minutes.
2 . Add the onions, celery, carrots, peppers, cabbage,
and garlic and sweat until the onions are translucent
about 15 minutes.
3 . Add the tomato concasse, stock, salt, and pepper.
Simmer until the vegetables are tender, 25 to 30
minutes. Do not overcook.
4 . Add the chickpeas, black-eyed peas, and ditalini.
The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly
cooled and stored for later service.
5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer.
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Garnish indi­
vidual portions with grated Parmesan.
chapter 14 » S O U P S 357
meats, poultry
PART 4
mise en place for
bieats, poultry,
sh, and shellfish
Bringing out the best flavor in meats, poultry, and fish is a skill that
seems to come naturally to a professional chef. Another hallmark of the
professional is an ability to cook meats, poultry, and fish to the perfect
degree of doneness. These skills develop through concentration, practice,
and a basic understanding of seasoning and cooking techniques.

CHAPTER 15
 A dding sea so n in g s at th e proper point in t h e cooking pr o c ess is k e y to giving a finished

dish the fu l l e s t po ssible fla v o r . Th e a r r a y of s e a so n in g s r u n s fro m sim ple to c o m ple x

b len d s of h erbs and spices ,an d m a rin a d es that m a y include o ils ,a cid s ,an d a ro m atics such

as o n io n s , g a r lic , fr esh or dried h e r b s , or spices . In e v e r y c a s e , t h o u g h , s e a so n in g s are

m e a n t to e n h a n c e fla v o r , not detract fro m or o v e r w h e lm the dish . LI Q. UI D M A R I N A D E S m a y

C H A N G E T H E T E X T U R E O F F O O D S IN A D D I T I O N T O F L A V O R I N G T H E M .

seasonings
S a lt and pepper are take n so much fo r gra n te d th a t some beginning cooks fa il to apply
these tw o seasonings ea rly enough durin g cooking o r in enough q u a n tity to bring o u t the
b e st fla v o r in cooked fo o d s. S a lt and pepper added b e fo re cooking b ring o u t th e in he rent
fla v o rs in foo ds. If these seasonings are added only a fte r th e cooking is com plete, th e sa lt
and pepper may ta ke on to o much sig nifica nce in th e fin is h e d dish’s flavo r. It is generally
b e tte r to apply s a lt and pepper separately. Using your fin g e rtip s to apply s a lt and pepper
is a good w ay to c o n tro l th e am ount added and to apply a m ore even coat.
S a lt and p e pp er are fun dam e ntal, b u t blends th a t com bine various spices, herbs, and
o th e r a ro m a tics can cre a te a p a rtic u la r fla v o r p ro file . Like s a lt and pepper, th e y may be
ap plied d ire c tly to raw m eat, p o u ltry, o r fis h . To in te n s ify th e fla v o r o f seeds and spices,
to a s t the m e ith e r on th e s to v e to p o r in a m od era te oven ju s t b e fo re grinding. Be sure to
pay close a tte n tio n . They can go fro m p e rfe c tly to a s te d to scorched very quickly.
To to a s t seeds o r spices in the oven, spread them o u t on a dry sheet pan in a m oderate
oven ju s t u n til a plea sant arom a is apparent. S tir o fte n to ensure even browning. Remove
im m e d ia te ly and tra n s fe r to a fre s h pan o r p la te to cool.
To to a s t spices and seeds on th e stove to p, spread them in a shallow layer in a preheated
dry saute pan and toss, shake, o r s w irl th e pan u n til a rich, p e n e tra tin g aroma arises. Trans­
fe r them to a cool pan to avoid scorching.
Fresh herbs and o th e r in g re d ie n ts such as garlic, fre s h o r dry bread crum bs, o r g ra te d
cheeses can be blended in to a paste or coating. They are som e tim es m oiste ne d w ith oil,
prepared m ustard, or sim ila r in g re d ie n ts to crea te a te x tu re th a t can easily adhere to a
fo o d o r make it easier to blend it in to a dish as a fin a l seasoning. Fresh herbs may have d irt
in th e ir leaves, so rinse th e m w e ll to rem ove sand o r g rit. Thorough d ryin g im proves th e f la ­
vo r and te x tu re o f the blend by pre ve n tin g w a te r clinging to th e herb's leaves fro m d ilu tin g
flavo r.
When a spice blend is used as a d ry rub (also called a d ry m arinad e) to coa t foo d, the
fo o d is re frig e ra te d a fte r a p p lica tio n to allow it to absorb th e fla vo rs. Very o fte n , these
rubs con tain some s a lt to help in te n s ify all the fla v o rs in th e dish. Dry rubs may be le ft on
th e fo o d durin g cooking o r th e y may be scraped away fir s t. Spice blends may also be added
to a ro m a tic veg etab le s as th e y cook during th e in itia l stages o f p re pa ring a braise o r stew.
The f a t used to cook th e veg etab le s releases th e fla v o r o f th e spices and in fu ses th e dish
m ore e ffe c tiv e ly than i f th e spice blend w ere s im p ly added to a sim m e ring dish. Barbecued
b e e f and Jamaican je rk e d po rk are classic exam ples o f dishes th a t may be prepared using
a dry rub. The Jerked Game Hens on page 4 5 9 are m arinate d using a paste to add flavor.

362 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 in
O)
P
M arinades g e ne rally contain one or m ore o f th e fo llo w in g : oil, acid, and aro m atics m
(spices, herbs, and vegetables). Oils p ro te c t fo o d fro m in te nse heat du rin g cooking and O
help hold o th e r fla v o rfu l in g re d ie n ts in c o n ta c t w ith th e fo o d . Acids, such as vinegar, wine, P
yo g u rt, and c itru s ju ices, fla v o r th e fo o d and change its te x tu re . In some cases, acids firm
o r s tiffe n fo o d s (e.g., the lim e ju ice m arinade th a t "cooks" th e raw fis h in seviche). 2
M a rin a tin g tim e s vary according to the foo d's te x tu re . Tender or d e lica te fo o d s such as
QTQ
fis h o r p o u ltry b re a sts req uire less tim e . A to u g h e r c u t o f m ea t m ay be m arinate d f o r days.
The ra tio o f acid to o th e r in g re d ie n ts may also a ffe c t tim in g . H igh-acid m arinades, such
as th o se used to prepare seviche, produce th e desired e ffe c t w ith in 15 o r 20 m inutes o f
applying the m to a foo d. O thers are b e st le ft in co n ta c t w ith fo o d s f o r several hours, w hile
som e req uire several days.
Some m arinades are cooked b e fo re use; o th e rs are not. S om e tim es th e m arinade is
used to fla v o r an accom panying sauce o r may its e lf becom e a d ip p in g sauce. M arinades
th a t have been in co n ta c t w ith raw fo o d s can be used in these ways p ro vid ed th a t the y are
boile d f o r several m inutes f ir s t to k ill any linge rin g pathogens.
To use a liquid m arinade, add it to the in g re d ie n t and tu rn th e in g re d ie n t to coa t evenly.
Cover and m arinate, re frig e ra te d , fo r the length o f tim e in d ica te d by th e recipe, the ty p e o f
m eat, p o u ltry , o r fish, and th e desired resu lt. Brush o r scrape o f f excess m arinade b e fore
cooking and p a t dry, p a rtic u la rly if th e m arinade contains herbs o r o th e r aro m atics th a t
burn easily.

A cut o f m eat w ith the proper amount o f dry Brush marinade on the ingredient or dip
rub. the ingredient in the marinade to coat it
thoroughly.

Chapter 15 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H 363

 S t u ffin g s add f la v o r , m o istu r e , an d t e x t u r e to a dish . The sim ple st st u ffin g s are m ade

F R O M O N L Y H ER B S , V E G E T A B L E S , A N D F RUI TS; O P T I O N S I N C L U D E Q U A R T E R E D OR H A L V E D O NI O NS ,

G AR LI C CL OVES, L E M O N S OR O RA N G ES , AN D SPRIG S OR B U N C H E S OF F R E S H HER BS. A L T H O U G H T H E S E

A R E U N CO M PL I CA TE D , T H E Y CA N HA V E A DRAM ATI C IMPACT ON FLAV OR.

stuffings
Bread and p a rtic u la rly fo rc e m e a t s tu ffin g s are m ore com plex op tion s. Prepare bread
s tu ffin g s by cubing or bre aking breads (pe asa nt-style, corn, French, o r Ita lia n -s ty le ) in to
sm all pieces. S tu ffin g s are generally fla v o re d w ith a ro m a tic veg etab le s (ty p ic a lly cooked
in some fa t to develop th e ir fla vo r), herbs, and spices. Some bread s tu ffin g s are m oistened
w ith sto cks o r bro th s. O ptio nally, eggs may be included to bind the s tu ffin g . A d d itio n a l
in gre die nts, such as cooked sausage, seafood, o r m ushroom s, may also be included.
Grain-based s tu ffin g s are based upon rice, barley, kasha, or o th e r grains th a t have been
cooked un til ju s t te n d e r (use the p ila f or sim m ering m ethods; see pages 761 and 754). Once
cooked, cool the grains com p le te ly b e fore the s tu ffin g is added to meat, poultry, or fish.
These s tu ffin g s can be seasoned, m oistened, and bound sim ilarly to bread-based s tu ffin g s.
F orcem eat s tu ffin g s can be prepared using any o f th e fo rc e m e a t m ethods o r recipes
included in C hapter 3 0 (pages 98 5 to 1011). These m ixtu re s m ust be handled c a re fu lly to
keep them w e ll chille d and w holesom e. Keep fo rc e m e a ts over an ice bath fo r q u a lity as w ell
as fo o d s a fe ty. They are o fte n used to f ill d e lica te cuts o f m eat and fis h (e.g., to spread
on to fis h fille ts b e fo re the y are ro lle d in to p a u p ie tte s and shallow-poached).
A n o th e r im p o rta n t co n sid eratio n w ith s tu ffin g s , along w ith fla v o r and q u a lity, is
p ro p e r handling f o r fo o d s a fe ty. Any s tu ffin g in g re d ie n ts th a t req uire p re coo king should
be cooled to below 40 °F /4 °C b e fo re th e y are com bined w ith o th e r s tu ffin g elem ents. The
fin ish e d m ix tu re should also be chilled w e ll b e fo re s tu ffin g . D uring fin a l cooking, s tu ffin g s
m ust reach th e m inim um safe te m p e ra tu re fo r the fo o d the y were s tu ffe d into. S tu ffin g
in a chicken b re a st or leg, fo r instance, m ust reach 165°F /74°C . For th is reason, whole
chickens and tu rke ys are ra re ly s tu ffe d in p ro fe ssio n a l kitchens. By the tim e the s tu ffin g
reaches the necessary te m p e ra tu re , th e m eat w ould be overcooked. Instead, s tu ffin g s
f o r w hole roa ste d birds are m ore o fte n baked sep ara te ly, in which case th e y are known as
dressings.

364 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 standard breading
B r e a d i n g is d o n e t o c r e a t e a c r i s p c r u s t o n f r i e d f o o d s . It is p r e p a r e d b y c o a t i n g f o o d s w i t h

F L O U R , EG G W A S H , A N D B R E A D C R U M B S O R O T H E R C O A T I N G S . T h e S T A N D A R D B R E A D I N G P R O C E D U R E IS

T H E M O S T E F F IC IE N T W A Y TO COAT A N U M B E R OF IT E M S , U S IN G A C O N S IS T E N T S E d U E N C E .

standard breading
Be sure to season th e fo o d b e fo re ap plying any coating.
Use flo u r and sim ila r meals o r powders, such as corn sta rch, to lig h tly dredge o r du st
fo o d s b e fo re th e y are dipped in an egg wash.
M ake an egg wash by blending eggs (whole, yolks, o r w h ite s) and w a te r or m ilk. A gen­
eral guid eline calls fo r ab ou t 2 f l o z /6 0 mL m ilk f o r every 2 w hole eggs. Some item s are
dipp ed in to m ilk o r b u tte rm ilk b e fo re th e y are breaded, ra th e r than in egg wash.
Bread crum bs may be dry or fresh. Fresh w h ite bread crum bs (called m ie de pain in
French) are prepared by g ra tin g or p rocessing fin e ly te x tu re d bread, such as w h ite Pullman
bread w ith the cru s t rem oved. Dry bread crum bs (called chapelure in French) are prepared
fro m s lig h tly stale bread th a t may be fu rth e r d ried o r to a s te d in a w arm oven. Panko (Japa­
nese bread crum bs) has becom e very popular. These breadcrum bs are coarser than sta n ­
dard bread crum bs and cre a te a crunchy c ru s t when frie d .
O th er in g re d ie n ts may be used in place o f o r in a d d itio n to bread crumbs. O ptions in­
clude nuts, seeds, shredded coconut, c orn flake s, p o ta to flake s, shredded p o ta to e s, gra te d
cheese, ground spices, g a rlic paste, and chopped herbs.
B lo t th e fo o d dry w ith paper to w e ls and season as desired. Hold it in one hand and dip
it in flo u r. Shake o f f any excess flo u r and tra n s fe r th e fo o d to th e co n ta in e r o f egg wash.
S w itch hands, pick up th e foo d, and tu rn it if necessary to coa t it on all sides. T ransfer it to
the co n ta in e r o f bread crum bs. Use your dry hand to pack bread crum bs evenly around the
fo o d . Shake o f f any excess, then tra n s fe r the fo o d to a rack s e t over a holding tray. S tore
breaded fo o d in single layers, b u t if you m ust sta ck th e pieces, use pa rchm e nt or waxed
paper to separate th e layers.
D iscard any unused flo u r, egg wash, and bread crum bs. The presence o f juices, d rip ­
pings, or p a rtic le s o f the fo o d you ju s t coa ted w ill con ta m in a te the se pro du cts, m aking
the m unsafe f o r use w ith o th e r foo ds. Even s iftin g th e flo u r o r crum bs o r s tra in in g th e egg
wash w ill n o t be s u ffic ie n t to pre ven t cross co n ta m in a tio n and e lim in a te th e p o te n tia l fo r
fo o d -b o rn e illness.

Standard
breading
procedure
setup

365
general guidelines for determining
doneness in meats, poultry, and fish
Chefs m ust re ly n o t only on a th e rm o m e te r, b u t also on th e ir senses when cooking. Those
senses are p u t to a g re a te r te s t in d e te rm in in g doneness in a la m in ute cooking because
chefs can't a ctu a lly ta s te w h a t th e y are serving, th e w ay th e y can ta s te a soup o r a sauce.
Follow the se guidelines:

» THE WAY IT SMELLS. As fo o d s near doneness, th e ir sm ells change. Arom as in te n s ify

and becom e easier to id e n tify . Each cooking m ethod produces a p a rtic u la r aroma.
G rilled and b ro ile d fo o d s should have a pleasing sm oky, charred arom a, in d ic a tin g rich,
deep flavo r.

» THE WAY IT FEELS. Foods should be easy to cu t and chew. Touch fo o d s (w ith a gloved
fin g e r) to gauge resistance. The less w ell-done a piece o f m eat is, th e s o fte r and m ore
yie ld in g it w ill fe e l. Keep in m ind th a t te x tu re varies in d iffe re n t cuts o f meat.

» THE WAY IT LOOKS. As m eat cooks, th e e x te rio r w ill change color. The in te rio r colors
also change, an im p o rta n t fa c to r when d e te rm in in g doneness in m eats cooked to cus­
to m e r p re fe re n ce (rare, m edium , o r w ell done). If th e m ea t appears pale or even gray,
it has n o t been p ro p e rly cooked. The ju ice s th a t run fro m th e m eat, although m inim al,
should be th e c o rre c t color; th e ra re r th e m eat, th e re d d e r th e ju ice s w ill appear.

Appearance is also an im p o rta n t fa c to r in know ing when to tu rn a piece o f m eat. When

th e m eat's up pe r surface begins to appear ve ry m o is t (there may even be m o istu re beads),
the m eat should be turne d. Thin pieces may s ta rt to change co lo r a t th e edges when the y
are ready fo r turning.
The te m p e ra tu re s in th e fo llo w in g ta b le are fin a l re s tin g tem p e ra tu re s, based on the
USDA's safe cooking guidelines. M o st m eats, p o u ltry, and fis h need to be rem oved fro m the
pan, g rill, o r oven b e fore the y reach th e ir fin a l te m p e ra tu re to avoid overcooking and drying
out. Heat is retained by fo o d s even a fte r they are rem oved fro m th e heat source. That re ­
sidual heat causes th e fo o d to keep cooking, a phenomenon re fe rre d to as ca rryo ve r c oo k­
ing. Internal te m p e ra tu re s taken ju s t as th e fo o d is rem oved fro m the oven and again a fte r
re s tin g w ill show a te m p e ra tu re d iffe re n c e o f anywhere fro m a fe w degrees to ten, fifte e n ,
or more. F actors th a t play a role in changes in in te rna l te m p e ra tu re during re stin g include
the mass o f the fo o d being prepared and the presence o r absence o f s tu ffin g and bones.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 general guidelines
Temperatures and Descriptions of Degrees o f Doneness
FINAL RESTING
DEGREE OF DONENESS DESCRIPTION
TEMPERATURE

fre sh beef, ve al, a nd la m b

RARE 1 3 5 °F /5 7 °C In te rio r appearance shiny

M EDIUM -R ARE 1 4 5 °F /6 3 °C Deep red to pink

M EDIUM 1 6 0 °F /7 1 °C Pink to lig h t pink

W ELL-DONE 1 7 0 °F /7 7 °C L ig h t p in k w ith g ra yin g on th e edges f o r m edi-

um -w ell; no pink f o r w e ll done

fresh p o rk

M ED IU M 1 6 0 °F /7 1 °C M e a t opaque th ro u g h o u t; s lig h t give; ju ice s w ith

fa in t blush

W ELL-DONE 1 7 0 °F /7 7 °C S lig h t give; ju ic e s cle ar

h am

FRESH HAM 1 6 0 °F /7 1 °C S lig h t give; ju ic e s w ith fa in t blush

PRECOOKED 1 4 0 °F /6 0 °C M e a t a lre a d y fu lly cooked

(TO REHEAT)

p o u ltr y

WHOLE BIRDS 1 8 0 °F /8 2 °C Leg easy to move in so cke t; ju ic e s w ith only

(CHICKEN, TURKEY, DUCK, GOOSE) blush

POULTRY BREASTS 1 7 0 °F /7 7 °C M e a t opaque; fir m th ro u g h o u t

PO ULTRYTHIGHS, LEGS, WINGS 1 8 0 °F /8 2 °C M e a t releases fro m bone

STUFFING (COOKED ALONE OR IN 1 6 5 °F /7 4 °C The appearance o f th e fu lly cooked s tu ffin g w ill

BIRD) depend on th e recipe

g ro u n d m e a t a n d m e a t m ix tu re s

TURKEY, CHICKEN 1 6 5 °F /7 4 °C O paque th ro u g h o u t; ju ic e s cle ar

BEEF, VEAL, LAM B, PORK 1 6 0 °F /7 1 °C Opaque, m ay have blush o f red; ju ice s opaque,
no red

seafood

FISH 1 4 5 °F /6 3 °C S till m o ist; se p a ra te s e a sily in to segm ents. Or

u n til opaque

SHRIMP, LOBSTER, CRAB S hells tu rn red, fle s h becom es p e arly opaque

SCALLOPS Turn m ilk y w h ite o r opaque; firm

CLAM S, MUSSELS, S hells open

OYSTERS

c h a p te r 15 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR M E A T S , POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H 367

Garam Masala Barbecue Spice Mix
M akes 2 oz /5 7 g M akes 2 oz /57 g

12 to 13 green or black cardamom pods V2 o z/1 4 g Spanish paprika

4 ts p /7 g coriander seeds V2 o z/1 4 g Chili Powder (recipe follows, or purchased)

4 ts p /8 g c u m in seeds V2 o z/1 4 g salt

1 cinnamon stick, broken into small pieces 2 ts p /4 g ground cumin

V A ts p /2.50 g cloves 2 ts p /1 0 g s u g a r

ZV 2 ts p /5 g black peppercorns l t s p / 2 g dry mustard

'A ts p /0.50 g ground nutmeg 1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper

2 or 3 bay leaves (optional) 1 ts p /2 g dried thyme

1 ts p /2 g dried oregano
1 . Break open the cardamom pods and remove the 1 ts p /3 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)
seeds. Combine the cardamom, coriander, cumin,
V 2 ts p / 1 g cayenne
cinnamon, cloves, and peppercorns. Roast in a
350°F/i77°C oven until fragrant, about 5 minutes.
Remove and cool slightly. Combine all the spices. Store in a tightly sealed con­
tainer and use within 1 month.
2.. Combine the roasted spices with the nutmeg and
bay leaves (if using) in a clean spice grinder and
grind to a medium-fine powder.
3 . Store in a tightly sealed container and use within 1
month.
Chili Powder
M akes 2 oz /57 g

r /2 o z/4 3 g dried chiles, ground

Chinese Five-Spice V2 o z/1 4 g ground cumin

1 ts p /2 g dried oregano

Powder V2 tsp /1 g garlic powder

M akes 2 oz/57 g 'A ts p /0.50 g ground coriander

V* ts p /0 .5 0 g ground cloves (optional)

5 star anise pods

2 or 3 cloves
Combine all the spices including the cloves, if de­
4'/2 ts p /9 g Szechwan peppercorns
sired. Store in a tightly sealed container and use
1 tb sp /7 g fennel seeds within 1 month.
'A cinnamon stick (about 1 in /3 cm cinnamon stick)
NOTES: Remove the seeds from the chiles if a less spicy
blend is desired.
1 . Combine all the spices in a clean spice grinder and
Some commercially prepared chili powder is actually a
grind to a medium-fine powder. Store in a tightly
blend sim ilar to this one.
sealed container and use within 1 month.
This chili powder should not be confused w ith the
2 . When needed, measure the appropriate amount and ground chiles called fo r in some recipes.
lightly toast the powder in a dry saute pan until you
can smell the aromas of the spices. Quickly transfer
the toasted powder to a cool pan or container so that
it does not continue to cook and burn.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 mise en place recipes
Curry Powder Fines Herbes
Makes 2 oz/s7 g Makes 2 oz/ 5 7 g

V A o z/4 3 g cumin seeds V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped chervil leaves

V 2 o z/1 4 g coriander seeds V 2 o z/1 4 g minced chives

'A o z/1 4 g ground turmeric V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped parsley leaves

2 tb sp /1 2 g ground cinnamon '/ 2 o z/1 4 g chopped tarragon leaves

2 tb s p /1 2 g ground ginger

2 ts p /8 g mustard seeds Combine all the herbs and mix well. Store in a
tightly sealed container and refrigerate for 1 to 2
8 dried red chiles
days or use as needed.

1 . Combine all the spices. Roast in a 350°F/i77°C oven NOTES: Add marjoram, savory, lavender, or watercress to the
until fragrant, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove and herb m ixture to adjust the flavor, if desired.

cool slightly. Split the chiles and remove and discard Fines herbes should be added near the end o f cooking
the stems and seeds. tim e because they do not hold th e ir flavo r long.

2.. Combine all the spices in a clean spice grinder and Typical uses include flavoring fo r omelets or crepes, or
grind them to a medium-fine powder. Store in a as the fina l addition to soups and consommes.
tightly sealed container and use within 1 month.

NOTE: Add paprika, cloves, or fresh curry leaves to the blend,

if desired.

Quatre Epices
Makes 2 oz/5 y g

V A o z/3 5 g black peppercorns

'A o z/1 4 g ground nutmeg

1 tb sp /6 g ground cinnamon

2 ts p /4 g cloves

Combine all the spices in a clean spice grinder and

grind to a medium-fine powder. Store in a tightly
sealed container and use within 1 month.

c h a p te r 15 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR M EAT S, POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H 369

 Red Curry Paste
Makes 2 oz/57 g
V 2 o z/1 4 g red bird chiles
4 dried New Mexico or guajillo chiles,
stemmed, cut into several pieces
V 2 tsp /1 g cumin seeds
V / 2 ts p /2 .5 0 g coriander seeds
'A ts p /0.50 g white peppercorns
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 or 2 medium shallots, thinly sliced
1 tb sp /9 g thinly sliced lemongrass
V / 2 ts p /4.50 g thinly sliced galangal
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g grated lime zest
1 to 2 kaffir lime leaves, chopped
V / 2 tsp /1 g finely chopped cilantro root or stems
1 ts p /2 g Thai shrimp paste
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g salt
2 f I o z/6 0 mL water, or as needed
1 . Soak the dried chiles in hot water for 15 minutes.
Drain and set aside.
2 . Combine the cumin, coriander, and peppercorns in
a small saute pan. Toast over medium heat until fra­
grant, about 3 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Cool.
3 . Using a clean spice grinder, grind the toasted spices
to a medium-fine powder and set aside.
4 . Place the chiles, garlic, shallots, lemongrass, ga­
langal, lime zest, lime leaves, cilantro root, shrimp
paste, salt, and water in a blender and grind into a
fine paste.
5 . Add the ground spices and blend together until
smooth, adding more water if necessary.
6 . Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate for
up to 1 week or use as needed.
370 M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Green Curry Paste
Makes 2 OZI5 7 S
1A ts p /0 .5 0 g cumin seeds
V / 2 ts p /2 .5 0 g coriander seeds
5 white peppercorns
1 or 2 medium shallots, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
5 green Thai chiles, stems and seeds removed
V 2 o z/1 4 g thinly sliced lemongrass
V / 2 tsp /1 g finely chopped cilantro root or stems
V 2 tsp /1 g sliced galangal
V 2 ts p /1.50 g grated lime zest, kaffir if available
1 to 2 kaffir lime leaves, chopped
V 2 tsp /1 g shrimp paste
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g salt
1 . Toast the cumin and coriander seeds in a small saute
pan over medium heat until golden brown and fra­
grant, about 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl.
2 . In the same pan, toast the peppercorns in the same
manner. Combine with the cumin and coriander.
3 . Grind the toasted spices a clean spice grinder to a
medium-fine powder and reserve until needed.
4 . Place the shallots, garlic, chiles, lemongrass, cilantro
root, galangal, zest, lime leaves, shrimp paste, and
salt in a blender and grind into a fine paste.
5 . Add the ground spices and blend until smooth.
6 . Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate for
up to 1 week or use as needed.
 mise en place recipes
Yellow Curry Paste Seasoning Mix fo r
Makes 2 oz/57 g
Spit-Roasted Meats
V 2 tsp /1 g cumin seeds

V/2 ts p /2 .5 0 g coriander seeds and Poultry

2 white peppercorns Makes 2/4 oz/64 g

V 2 o z/1 4 g Thai chiles, stemmed, split, and seeded 1 o z/3 5 g salt

2 garlic cloves, sliced 2 tb s p /1 2 g dry mustard
2 medium shallots, sliced 2'/z ts p /5 g ground black pepper
V A ts p /3 g ground turmeric V/2 ts p /3 g dried thyme
V/2 ts p /4 .5 0 g thinly sliced galangal V/2 ts p /3 g dried oregano
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g grated lime zest, kaffir if available V/2 tsp / 3 g ground coriander
1 or 2 kaffir lime leaves, chopped V/2 ts p /2 .5 0 g celery seed
1 ts p /2 g shrimp paste

1 ts p /3 g salt Combine all the spices. Store in a tightly sealed con­

tainer and use within 1 month.
V/2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL vegetable oil

1 . Toast the cumin and coriander seeds in a small saute

pan over medium heat until golden brown and fra­
grant. Transfer to a small bowl.
2 . In the same pan, toast the peppercorns in the same
manner. Add to the cumin and coriander.
3 . Toast the chiles very lightly in the same pan, just
until dark spots begin to appear. (Do not let them
blacken.) Remove from the pan and set aside.
4 . Toast the garlic and shallots in the same manner. Set
aside.
5 . Grind the cumin, coriander, and peppercorns in a
clean spice grinder to a medium-fine powder and
reserve until needed.
6 . Combine the chiles, garlic, shallots, turmeric, ga­
langal, zest, lime leaves, shrimp paste, and salt in a
blender and grind into a fine paste.
7 . Add the ground spices and oil and blend until
smooth.
8 . Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate for
up to 1 week or use as needed.

c h a p te r 15 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR M E A T S , POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H 371

 Asian-Styie Marinade Fish Marinade
Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL

6 f l o z/1 8 0 mL hoisin sauce 12 f I o z /3 6 0 mL olive oil

6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL dry sherry 4 f I o z /1 2 0 mL lemon juice, dry w hite

wine, or w h ite verm outh
2 f I o z/6 0 mL rice wine vinegar
V 2 o z /1 4 g minced garlic
2 f I o z /6 0 mL soy sauce
2 t s p / 1 0 g s a lt
V 2 o z /1 4 g minced garlic
2 ts p /4 g ground black pepper

Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed

container and refrigerate for up to 1 week or use as Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed

needed. container and refrigerate for up to 1 week or use as

needed.

Barbecue Marinade Red Wine Game

Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL

10 f l o z /3 0 0 mL vegetable oil Marinade

5 f I o z /1 5 0 mL cider vinegar Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL

2 tb s p /3 0 mL W orcestershire sauce 6 f l o z /1 8 0 mL dry red wine

1 tb s p /1 5 g brown sugar 5 o z /1 4 2 g diced onions
2 ts p / 6 g minced garlic V / 2 o z /4 3 g diced celery
2 t s p / 4 g dry m ustard I V 2 o z /4 3 g diced carro ts
1 ts p /5 mLTabasco sauce 2 tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil
1 ts p / 2 g ga rlic powder 2 tb s p /3 0 mL red wine vinegar
1 ts p / 2 g onion powder 1 ts p /3 g minced garlic

1 ts p / 2 g dried thym e
Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed
V2 ts p /1 g ju nip er berries
container and refrigerate for up to 1 week or use as
needed. V 2 ts p /1 g dried savory

V 2 ts p /1 g ground black pepper

1 to 2 parsley sprigs

1 bay le a f

Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed

container and refrigerate or 2 to 3 days or use as
needed.

372 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 mise en place recipes
Lamb Marinade Latin Citrus Marinade
Makes 16 fl 0Z/480 mL
( M o jo )
4 f I o z /1 2 0 mL dry red wine Makes 1 6 f l 0Z/480 mL
4 f l o z /1 2 0 mL red wine vinegar
9 f l o z /2 7 0 mL orange juice
2 f l o z /6 0 mL olive oil
41/> f l o z /1 3 5 mL lemon juice
lt b s p / 1 5 g sugar
3 tb s p /4 5 mL lim e juice
l t b s p / 6 g dried m int
A 'A ts p / 8 g ground annato seeds
lt s p / 3 g s a l t
r / 2t s p / 5 g s a lt
1 ts p / 2 g ju n ip e r berries
1 ts p /3 g chopped garlic
2 bay leaves
3A ts p /1 .5 0 g dried oregano
2 onion slices, V 2 in /1 .5 cm th ick
3A ts p /1 .5 0 g ground cumin
1 parsley sprig
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground cloves
1 thym e sprig
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground cinnamon
1 ga rlic clove, minced
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper
Pinch ground nutm eg

Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed

Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed
container and refrigerate for 2 to 3 days or use as
container and refrigerate for 2 to 3 days or use as
needed.
needed.

c h a p te r 15 » M IS E EN PLACE FOR M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H 373

Red Wine Marinade Teriyaki Marinade
Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL
fo r Grilled Meats
6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL soy sauce
Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL peanut oil
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine
3 f I o z/9 0 mL dry sherry
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL olive oil
1 o z/2 8 g honey
2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice
2 tb s p /1 8 g grated orange zest (optional)
2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
1 ts p /3 g salt
2 ts p /6 g grated ginger
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper

Combine all the ingredients, including the orange

Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed zest, if desired. Store in a tightly sealed container
container and refrigerate for 2 to 3 days or use as and refrigerate for 2 to 3 days or use as needed.
needed.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

abricating meats,
oultry, and fish
Meat, poultry, and fish are the most costly part of the food budget of a
foodservice operation, no matter the establishment's scale. Generally, the size
and scope of the operation determine the form in which it purchases meats,
poultry, and fish. For operations with limited labor and storage resources, quality
prefabricated boxed meats, poultry, and fish are an acceptable purchasing form.

CH A P T E R 1 6
 C h efs w it h t h e m e a n s to do so o f t e n prefer to p er fo r m m a n y f a b r ic a t io n tasks in -house

TO C O N T R O L P O R T IO N S IZE A N D Q .U A L IT Y — IM P O R T A N T C O N S ID E R A T IO N S W H E N I T C O M E S TO T H E

e s t a b l i s h m e n t 's REPU TATIO N.

meat fabrication
Depending on th e p re va ilin g local m a rke t rates fo r fo o d and labor, in-house fa b ric a tio n
may be less expensive than buying p re fa b ric a te d menu cuts. As a fu rth e r econom ic ben­
e fit, trim and bones can be used to prepare o th e r dishes (e.g., stocks, soups, sauces, and
forcem e ats).
General s im ila ritie s e x is t betw een cuts o f beef, veal, lamb, venison, and po rk if they
come fro m the same p a rts o f th e butchered animal. M uscle sections th a t are used more
fre q u e n tly or p e rfo rm arduous ta sks w ill be to u g h e r than m ore se d e n ta ry m uscle groups.
M uscles th a t are located along th e back are used less fre q u e n tly than m uscles th a t are at
the e x tre m itie s . T here fore, the rib and th e loin contain the m o st te n d e r cuts. They ten d to
co st m ore than cuts fro m th e shoulder, which are o fte n m ore exercised and tougher. The
leg may contain te n d e r cuts as w e ll as cuts th a t are q u ite tough. The age and m ethod o f
raising the anim al also de te rm in e a level o f tenderness. W hat may be considered a q u a lity
cut in one species can be q u ite tou gh in an othe r animal.
P roper handling during fa b ric a tio n prepares m eats fo r subsequent cooking. The basic
techniques include trim m in g , boning, p o rtio n cu ttin g , ten derizing , grinding, and tyin g . M ost
o f the techniques described here do n o t req uire any special know ledge o f th e bones in a
cut o f m eat or o f th e anim al’s overall anatom y, although reference to sections o f C hapter 6 ,
M eat, P oultry, and Game Id e n tific a tio n , w ill be helpful.

376 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 fabricating m eat
Trimming a tenderloin

A whole pork loin often costs less per pound than a trimmed boneless loin.
Removing the fat and bones is relatively easy, and the bones and any lean trim
can then be roasted and used to prepare a rich brown jus or stock. It may take
some time at first to learn how to properly trim and bone a loin for a roast or
cutlets.

1. L ift and pull aw ay th e chain o f an u n trim m e d te n d e rlo in . This chain pulls

away easily; use th e blade o f a boning k n ife to ste a d y th e te n d e rlo in as the
chain is pulled away. If necessary, use the boning k n ife to help rem ove it fro m
th e te n d e rlo in .

2. C o m p le te ly rem ove th e m em brane, collagen, and silverskin . W ork so

th a t your cu ts move to w a rd th e head (the la rg e r end o f th e te n d e rlo in ). This
tough m em brane, w hich g e ts its name fro m its som ew hat silv e ry color, ten ds
to shrink when exposed to heat and causes uneven cooking. W ork th e to p o f
a boning k n ife under th e silve rskin and hold it t ig h t against the m eat. Glide
the k n ife blade ju s t underneath, angling the blade upward s lig h tly ag ainst the
silverskin . A te n d e rlo in o f b e e f is shown here, b u t the same tech niq ue s can be
ap plied to pork, veal, and lam b te n d e rlo in , as w ell as to o th e r cuts o f m ea t w ith
silverskin , includ in g to p round o f b e e f and veal and loin cuts o f venison and
o th e r large game.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH 377

Shaping a medallion

Boneless cuts from the tenderloin of beef and the loin or tenderloin of veal,
lamb, or pork may be called medallions, noisettes (so named because they are
like little nuts of meat), or grenadins (large cuts from the loin). The terms
noisette and medallion are often used interchangeably to refer to a small, bone­
less tender cut of meat weighing from 2 to 6 oz/57 to 170 g. Tournedos and
Chateaubriand are special terms generally used only for beef tenderloin cuts.
Tournedos are typically cut from the thinner end of the tenderloin to weigh 5
oz/142 g. Chateaubriand serves two and is cut from the center of the tender­
loin; it typically weighs 10 oz/284 g.
After the medallions or similar boneless cuts are portioned, they may
then be wrapped in cheesecloth and molded to give them a compact, uniform
shape. Not only does this give the meat a more pleasing appearance, it also
helps the medallion cook evenly. Gather the cheesecloth together and twist
to tighten it around the meat. As you twist the cloth with one hand, press
down on the meat firmly, with even, moderate pressure, using the broad side
of a knife blade or a similar flat object. The medallions on the left have been
shaped and are of a more uniform size.

378 MEATS, POULTRY, FISH, AND SHELLFISH

Fabricating boneless meats

Meats to be sauteed or pan fried, grilled, or stewed are often fabricated from
larger boneless cuts such as rounds, loins, and/or tenderloins. These cuts are
typically composed of more than one muscle. Each muscle has its own grain
(direction) in which the meat fibers are arranged. Breaking a larger cut into
individual sections allows the chef to cut each piece of meat properly for the
recipe or menu item.

1. To d ivid e la rg e r cuts (veal to p round shown here), fo llo w th e na tural

m uscle seam s— th e y a ct as a roadm ap to d e fin e s p e c ific cuts. This makes it
possible to c u t each m uscle across the grain and ea sily trim o u t any connec­
tiv e tissu e o r fa t.

2. Using th e same tech niq ue as de scrib ed fo r a b e e f te n d e rlo in , trim away

th e f a t and silve rskin . Pay a tte n tio n to th e angle o f the k n ife blade. It should
be angled upw ard to p re ve n t rem o ving edible m eat.

3. C u ttin g th e m ea t across th e grain produces a cu t o f m ea t th a t is less

tou gh than a piece cu t w ith the grain.

ch a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH 379

Shredding and mincing
The French word for this cut is
emince, or “cut into slivers.” Meat is
cut across the grain into thin strips
of a length and width appropriate for
the dish. Since the meat is generally
sauteed, the cut should be one of the
most tender. This technique can be
used for beef, lamb, and even pork.
Be sure to trim the meat completely
before cutting it into emince. Once
cut, the emince may be pounded, if
appropriate, using the same tech­
nique as for pounding cutlets. Blot
the pounded emince dry before
cooking.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Cutting and pounding cutlets
A meat cutlet or scallop is a thin boneless cut of meat prepared from the loin,
the tenderloin, or any other sufficiently tender cut of meat such as the top
round. Cutlet, scaloppine in Italian, and escalope in French are different words
for the same cut and are used depending on a menu’s particular style. Cutlets
are typically cut across the grain and on the bias.
Cutlets are often pounded to ensure an even thickness over their entire
area so that they can be rapidly sauteed or pan fried. A paillard is a pounded
cutlet that is grilled rather than sauteed or pan fried. Adjust the weight of the
mallet and strength of the blow to match the delicacy of the meat. Turkey cut­
lets (slices of turkey breast), for example, require a more delicate touch than
pork cutlets. Be careful not to tear or overstretch the meat while pounding it.
1 . Cut pieces o f the same w e ig h t (ge ne rally 1 to 4 o z /2 8 to 113 g) and c ir­
cum ference. Using a s c im ita r k n ife is n o t a b s o lu te ly necessary, b u t w ill help
to p re ve n t te a rs in th e m eat when c u ttin g .
2. Place th e m ea t in betw een layers o f p la s tic wrap. Use a pounding and
pu llin g m o tio n to evenly th in th e c u tle t. Increased surface area and decreased
th ickn e ss p ro m o te rapid cooking.
 fabricating m eat
Cutting bone-in chops

Chops and steaks are made from bone-in cuts from the rib or loin. Large
bones can be difficult to saw through, but the bones of cuts from the rib and
loin of pork, lamb, venison, and beef are more manageable.

1. Cut away th e backbone, o fte n re fe rre d to as th e chine bone, using a

handsaw. C o m p le te ly sever th e bone fro m th e rib bones w ith o u t c u ttin g in to
the m eat muscle.

2. Using you r g u id in g hand to hold th e chine bone away fro m th e m eat, w o rk

w ith th e tip o f a boning k n ife to make sm oo th stro k e s along th e fe a th e r bones,
c u ttin g the m ea t cleanly away fro m the bones.

3. Cut betw een each rib bone w ith a s c im ita r or c h e fs k n ife to make in d i­
vid ua l chops. W hen c u ttin g th ro u g h th e m eat, use even pressure to cre a te a
sm oo th surface on th e chops.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH 381

 #

Trimming a strip loin and cutting boneless steaks

Steaks cut in-house can keep the kitchen’s food cost down. Cuts must be
made evenly to guarantee even cooking time.

1. The s trip loin has a ta il, so m e tim e s re fe rre d to as a lip, running along
one edge o f th e m uscle. C ut away th is heavy layer o f fa t fir s t, ta k in g care not
to cut th e in te rio r loin muscle. Hold th is fa t cover ta u t as you run th e kn ife
blade down the le ng th o f th e loin, angling th e blade up s lig h tly . Remove I V 2
to 2 in /4 to 5 cm o f th e fa t cover.

2. A s trip loin m ay have a se ctio n known as th e chain. Once th e fa t cover is

trim m e d to the desired thickn ess, rem ove th e chain. Reserve it fo r a n othe r
use.

3. The ch e f is c u ttin g steaks fro m th e rib end o f th e s trip loin. The ste a k on
the le ft has been cu t fro m th is end. The V -shaped s tre a k o f collagen was re ­
moved and the ste a k on th e rig h t was cu t fro m th e s irlo in end. W hile stea ks cut
fro m th is end are as te n d e r as th o se cu t fro m th e rib end, th e collagen its e lf is
tough, and can give th e im p ressio n th a t th e ste a k is tough. These stea ks are
som e tim es re fe rre d to as vein steaks.
A d ju s t th e th ickn e ss o f th e cu t to produce equal-size stea ks o f th e desired
w e igh t. R e frig e ra te c u t stea ks u n til ready to cook.

382 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 fabricating m eat
Trimming and boning a pork loin

A whole pork loin often costs less than a trimmed boneless loin. Removing the
fat and bones is relatively easy, and the bones and any lean trim can then be
roasted and used to prepare a rich brown jus or stock. It may take some time at
first to learn how to properly trim and bone a loin for a roast or cutlets.

1 . The novice should c u t s lo w ly and sto p to exam ine the loin betw een cuts.
The f ir s t s te p when w o rk in g w ith a p o rk loin is to rem ove th e te n d e rlo in , if
it is s till in ta c t. N ext, c u t aw ay th e fa t cover to th e de sire d th ickn e ss. Make
sm oo th s tro k e s along th e rib bones to fre e the m eat, as shown here. Pull the
bones away fro m th e m ea t w ith your g u id in g hand to make it easy to see and
pre ve n t cuts in to th e edib le m eat. Pass th e k n ife close to th e bones, scraping
the m clean so th a t as litt le m ea t as po ssib le is le ft on th e bones.

2. Use th e tip o f th e k n ife to cu t around jo in ts and be tw ee n bones, and use

th e f la t p a rt o f th e blade f o r longer, sw eeping s tro ke s. Near th e b o tto m o f the
rib bones is a knob-shaped ridge o r ste p th a t m u st be cu t around to c o m p le te ­
ly rem ove th e m ea t fro m th e bone. It has a lm o st a rig h t angle th a t m u st be cut
around. Take care n o t to cu t in to th e ed ib le m e a t when c u ttin g around th e step.
Once th e loin has been trim m e d and boned, it can be used to pre pa re a
w ide v a rie ty o f menu cuts in clud in g m edallions, c u tle ts , and em ince.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH 383

 1

Boning a leg of lamb

Although this procedure may look difficult, it is possible to do it successfully

by following the steps shown in the accompanying illustrations.
The leg is covered with a layer of fat and a membrane known as the fell.
The fat and membrane should be removed carefully, leaving as much edible
meat intact as possible.
A leg of lamb can be boned out to use in a number of different ways. It
can be butterflied and grilled, or rolled, tied, and roasted. The meat can be
divided along the natural seams to make small roasts, or sliced into cutlets or
cubes.

1. The leg con tain s th e hind shank bone, the pe lvic bones (co n sistin g o f
the hip bone and th e aitch bone), a p o rtio n o f th e backbone and ta il, and the
leg bone (also known as th e fem ur).

2. W ork the tip o f th e k n ife around th e pe lvic bone. As you cu t in to th e m eat

to rem ove the bones, use an overhand g rip to hold your boning k n ife and cut
w ith the tip o f the blade as you w o rk around bones and jo in ts . W ork the kn ife
tip along th e bone to rem ove as much m ea t as possible fro m th e bone.

384 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

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3 . When th e m ea t has been fre e d fro m th e p e lvic bone, l i f t th e bone up

and away fro m th e leg.

4. Make a cut down th e shank bone and cu t th e m ea t cleanly away fro m

th e bone.

5 . A fte r fre e in g th e m ea t fro m th e shank bone, cu t around th e fe m u r to

rem ove th e bones fro m th e m eat.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH 385

Frenching a rack of lamb

This technique is one of the more complicated fabrication techniques, but it

is not especially difficult to master. Trimmed and frenched racks or chops can
be ordered from a meat purveyor, of course, but the chef can exercise greater
control over trim loss if the work is done in the kitchen. The same technique
can be used to french individual rib chops of lamb, veal, or pork. Any lean
trim can be used to prepare jus or a stock.

1 . Make an even cu t th ro u g h th e fa t cove rin g all the way down to th e bone.

The cut should be ab ou t 1 in /3 cm fro m th e m eat's eye.

2. S et th e rack on one end and make a sta b b in g cut betw een each p a ir o f
bones, using th e in itia l cut as a guide.

386 MEATS, POULTRY, FISH, AND SHELLFISH

 fabricating m eat
4

3. Use th e tip o f a boning k n ife to score th e th in m em brane cove rin g the

bones. This w ill allow th e bones to break th ro u g h th e m em brane easily.

4. Push th e bones th ro u g h th e m em brane. Use your fin g e rs to s ta b iliz e the

b o tto m o f th e rack w h ile p e eling away th e cu t m em branes and pushing th e
bones o u t w ith you r thum bs.

5 . Lay th e rack so th a t th e bones are fa cin g down. M ake an even cu t to sever

th e fa t cap and m e a t su rro u n d in g th e bone ends. It should pu ll away easily.

ch a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH 387

 2

Tying a roast

Tying a roast with secure knots that have the right tension is one of the simplest
and most frequently required types of meat fabrication. It ensures that the
roast will cook evenly and that it will retain its shape after roasting. As long as
the string is taut enough to give the roast a compact shape, without being too
tight, the result will be fine. Leave the string very long so that it will wrap easily
around the entire diameter and length of the meat. Or leave the string attached
to the spool and cut it only when the entire roast has been tied.

te c h n iq u e o n e
For this technique, the string is left attached to the spool rather than cut into
lengths. To start tying the roast, tie the end of the string around the thicker
end of the meat (any knot that holds securely may be used).

1. Pass th e s trin g around your o u tsp re a d fin g e rs and th u m b so th a t the

s trin g crosses its e lf and m akes an X.

2. Spread your hand open to enlarge th e loop.

3. C ontinue to enlarge the loop u n til it is w ide enough to pass ea sily around
th e th ic k e r end o f th e m eat, co m p le te ly e n circlin g it.

4. Encircle th e m eat w ith th e loop, m aking sure th a t the kn o ts are spaced

evenly a p a rt fro m one another.

388 M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H

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D . Pull th e loose end o f th e s trin g u n til th e loop is secu rely tig h te n e d around
the m eat. N o te th a t th e s trin g has fo rm e d a h a lf h itch kn o t a t th is p o in t. Con­
tin u e u n til th e e n tire piece o f m ea t has been secured w ith loops.

6 . Turn th e piece o f m ea t over. Pass th e loose end o f th e s trin g th ro u g h the

loop, then pass it back around and underneath the loop. Pull th e s trin g tig h t
and con tinu e down th e le ng th o f th e m eat.

7. Once th e s trin g has been w ra pp ed around each loop fro m one end to th e
other, tu rn th e m ea t back over. Cut th e loose end and tie th e s trin g secu rely to
the f ir s t loop.

te c h n iq u e t w o
For this tying technique, cut several lengths of string. Each piece should be
long enough to wrap completely around the meat with sufficient additional
length to tie a series of double knots.
There are other methods used for tying roasts than the two shown here.
If you have the chance to learn other methods, you will be better able to
adapt to tying different cuts of meat with ease.
Both techniques illustrated here work for both boneless and bone-in
roasts. The choice of technique is a matter of personal preference.
Technique tw o

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FIS H 389

 variety meats
In re ce n t years, as A m ericans have becom e less squea­
m ish ab o u t organ m eats, th e dem and f o r p ro p e rly
pre pa red liver, kidneys, tongue, sw e etbre ads, and o th e r
kinds o f v a rie ty m eats has grow n. Because the se cuts
are d iffic u lt to fin d in a g ro ce ry s to re o r even a butcher's
shop, many people are u n c o m fo rta b le w ith o r unsure o f
p ro p e r p re p a ra tio n techniques.
liv e r
Prepare live r b e fo re coo kin g by rem o ving any silverskin ,
to u g h m em branes, veins, and g ris tle . W hen su b je cte d to
in te nse heat, silve rskin shrinks m ore ra p id ly tha n m eat,
m aking th e liv e r pu cker and cook unevenly.
k id n e y s
The unique fla v o r o f kidneys w ill com e th ro u g h as long
as th e y are p e rfe c tly fre s h and p ro p e rly handled. Soak
kidneys in sa lte d w a te r f o r 12 hours, the n rinse w e ll and
soak in m ilk f o r a n o th e r 12 to 2 4 hours. Rinse th e k id ­
neys, the n cu t the m in h a lf and rem ove all o f th e fa t and
veins. In some cases, recipes may in d ica te th a t th e k id ­
neys be blanched fir s t. Peel th e kidneys by pu llin g away
th e m em brane covering them .
to n g u e
Tongue is quite a tough muscle. This cut o f m eat may be
sold w ith the skin or may be smoked. It is easier to remove
the skin fro m the cooked sm oked tongue. G ently sim m er
Tongue
390 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
the tongue in a fla v o rfu l b ro th or bouillon, and it w ill be­
come very tender. L e t th e tongue cool in the cooking liquid
to b o ls te r its flavor. Once the tongue is cooled, care fu lly
peel it to remove the skin. You can peel it away easily
fro m the tip o f the tongue using ju s t your fingers. The skin
clings m ore tig h tly near the base o f the tongue, so it may
be necessary to use a paring kn ife to remove the rem ain­
ing skin fro m the base and underside o f the tongue.
Once peeled, tongue can be used in a v a rie ty o f ways:
It can be cu t in to ju lie nn e o r dice and used as a garnish
f o r sauces, soups, o r pates. It m ay be sliced th in ly and
served h o t o r cold, o r used as a liner fo r te rrin e molds.
m a rro w
M a rro w — the s o ft inner substance o f bones— is o fte n
used as a garnish f o r soups, sauces, and o th e r dishes.
C ertain bones, known as m a rro w bones, have a s ig n ifi­
can t am ount o f m arro w th a t is re la tiv e ly easy to rem ove
using th e fo llo w in g technique: Subm erge th e m arro w
bones in cold, sa lte d w a te r f o r a fe w hours to remove
th e excess bloo d and im p u ritie s . A fte r th e y have soaked,
push th e m arro w o u t w ith your thum b.
s w e e tb re a d s
S w e etbre ad s are th e thym us gland o f veal. It is a s o ft-
s tru c tu re d gland th a t can be cu t w ith a fo rk , when
p ro p e rly prepared. This p a rtic u la r o ffa l is considered a
de lica cy and w a rra n ts a high cost.
Marrow
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Sweetbreads need to be thoroughly rinsed in cold water to remove all traces

of blood. They are then blanched in a court bouillon, peeled, and pressed to
give them a firmer, more appealing texture. The sweetbreads can then be pre­
pared a la meuniere (floured and sauteed). Sweetbreads are used to prepare
terrines.

1 . S w e etbre ad s need to be th o ro u g h ly rinsed in cold w a te r to rem ove all

tra ce s o f blood. Blanch th e m in enough c o u rt bo u illo n to cover.

2. A fte r blanching th e sw e etbre ads, le t the m cool enough to handle easily.

Pull away the m em brane cove rin g th e m eat.

3. R oll th e peeled lobes tig h tly in che ese cloth to give th e sw e e tb re a d s a

firm e r, m ore ap pe aling te x tu re . Place th e sw e etbre ads in a p e rfo ra te d h o te l
pan (as shown), place w e ig h t on to p o f them , and press th e sw e e tb re a d s under
re frig e ra tio n f o r several hours.

4. The pressed sw e e tb re a d s should be firm , com pact, and able to be sliced

easily. The s w e e tb re a d s can be p re pa red a la m euniere (flo u re d and sauteed)
or used in te rrin e s and o th e r pre p a ra tio n s.

Chapter 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FIS H 391

 FROM LEFTTO RIGHT:
Grinder housing or grinder body, worm,
blade, d iffe re n t size dies, collar.

Meats ground w ith d iffe re n t-size dies

FROM LEFTTO RIGHT:
Meats ground w ith a coarse die,
medium die, and fine die.

Grinding meat

Grinding meat calls for scrupulous attention to safe food handling practices
(see page 31). This fabrication technique applies to poultry and fish as well as
meats. Observe the following procedures for best results:

» Unplug th e g rin d e r b e fo re asse m bling o r disassem bling.

» Clean th e g rin d e r w e ll and p u t it to g e th e r c o rre c tly . M ake sure th a t the

blade is s ittin g flu s h ag ainst th e die. In th is p o s itio n , th e blade cuts the
fo o d neatly, ra th e r than te a rin g or sh re d d in g it.

» Cut th e m e a t in to dice o r s trip s th a t w ill f i t ea sily th ro u g h th e g rind er's

fe e d tube.

» C hill m ea ts th o ro u g h ly b e fo re g rind ing . C hill all g rin d e r p a rts th a t w ill come

in c o n ta c t w ith th e fo o d by e ith e r re frig e ra tin g th e m or sub m erg ing the m
in ice w ater.

» Do n o t fo rc e th e m ea t th ro u g h th e fe e d tu b e w ith a tam per. If th e y are th e

c o rre c t size, th e pieces w ill be drawn e a sily by th e worm .

» Be sure th a t th e blade is sharp. M e a t should be cu t cleanly, never m angled

or mashed, as it passes th ro u g h th e grinder.

» For all b u t v e ry d e lic a te m ea ts (salm on o r o th e r fish , f o r exam ple), begin

w ith a die w ith large openings. The m ea t w ill ap pe ar q u ite coarse.

» G rind th ro u g h p ro g re s s iv e ly sm a lle r dies u n til th e de sire d co n siste n cy is

achieved.

» A fin a l pass th ro u g h a fin e die gives th e ground m ea t a m ore re fin e d te x ­

tu re , and fu rth e r blends th e lean m ea t and fa t.

392 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 fabricating poultry
P o u ltr y , a lw a y s p o p u la r a n d readily a v a ila b le , is a m o n g the le a s t c o stly meats used for

E N T R E E S A N D O T H E R M E N U I T E M S . F A B R I C A T I O N T E C H N I Q U E S A R E D E M O N S T R A T E D H E R E ON A C H I C K E N ,

T H E B I R D M O S T C O M M O N L Y U S E D IN R E S T A U R A N T S . T H E S E T E C H N I Q U E S C A N B E A P P L I E D TO V I R T U A L L Y

A L L PO U LT R Y T Y P E S , NOT O N L Y CHI CK E N BUT SQ UA B , DUCK, P H E AS A N T, T U R K E Y , AN D QUAIL, WITH S O M E

M O D I F I C A T I O N F O R S I Z E ( S M A L L E R BI RDS R E Q U I R E M O R E D E LI C A T E , P R E C I S E CUTS; L A R G E R OR O L D E R

B I R D S , A H E A V I E R B L A D E A N D G R E A T E R P R E S S U R E TO B R E A K T H R O U G H T O U G H J O I N T S A N D S I N E w ) .

poultry fabrication
The goose is ty p ic a lly la rge r than the duck o r chicken, b u t th e bone s tru c tu re is simitar. The
d iffic u lty in fa b ric a tio n lies in th e fa c t th a t th e goose is v e ry fa tty , m aking th e d e fin itio n o f
w here to cut a little challenging.
The younger the bird, the easier it is to cut up. Young birds are usually much sm aller
and th e ir bones have n o t com p le te ly hardened. The size and breed o f the b ird w ill also
have som e bearing on how easy or d iffic u lt it is to fa b ric a te . Chickens are ge ne rally fa r
sim p le r to cu t up, fo r exam ple, than are pheasant. The ten don s and ligam e nts in chicken
are less w ell developed, exce pt in the case o f fre e -ra n g e birds, which move fre e ly ab ou t an
enclosed pen or yard.
When fa b ric a tin g , pay close a tte n tio n to fo o d s a fe ty reg ulation s. Some kitche ns use
co lo r-co d e d c u ttin g boards to avoid cross c o n ta m in a tio n betw een m eat, p o u ltry , fish, and
vegetables. Regardless o f th e m a te ria l th a t c u ttin g boards are made o f (wood or p lastic
resin), th e y w ill rem ain sa n ita ry if p ro p e rly cleaned.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH 393

Preparing a supreme

A supreme is a semiboneless poultry breast half, usually from a chicken,

pheasant, partridge, or duck, so named because it is the best (supreme) por­
tion. One wing joint, often frenched, is left attached to the breast meat. If
the skin is removed from the supreme, it may be referred to as a cotelette. Su-
premes may be sauteed, poached, or grilled.
To prepare a chicken supreme from a whole chicken by this technique,
you must cut away the wing tip and remove the legs. The breast meat and the
first joint of the wing are then cut away from the bird’s carcass. Reserve the
carcass for stock or broth.

1 . Use th e tip o f a boning k n ife to make a cu t th a t circles around th e sec­

ond jo in t o f th e w ing bone. M ake sure to c u t th ro u g h th e web skin as well.
Bend th e w ing bone at th e second jo in t to snap it. C ontinue to c u t th ro u g h
th e jo in t u n til th e w ing tip and w ing fla p are rem oved, leaving th e d ru m e tte
a tta ch e d to th e breast.

2. Cut th ro u g h the skin betw een th e th ig h and the breast.

3. Bend th e leg backw ard, away fro m the body, to expose th e ba ll socket.
M ake a cu t th a t runs along th e backbone to th e ball and socket, as shown. Hold 4
th e chicken sta b le w ith th e heel o f you r kn ife , and pu ll th e leg away fro m the
body firm ly and evenly. This w ill rem ove th e leg and th e o y s te r cleanly fro m
the backbone s tru c tu re . Repeat on th e o th e r side.

4. W ith th e b re a s t fa c in g up, cu t along e ith e r side o f the keel bone w ith a

kn ife . Use your g u id in g hand to s te a d y th e bird.

394 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 fabricating poultry
5. Remove th e b re a s t m ea t fro m
th e rib cage w ith d e lic a te cuts. Use
the tip o f th e k n ife to fre e th e m eat
fro m th e bones, running th e t ip along
th e bones f o r th e b e s t yield.

6 . Trim excess skin away fro m the

breast, m aking sure to keep enough
skin in ta c t to cover the chicken breast.

7. Use the blade to scrape the

m eat o f f th e rem a ining w ing bone to
expose th e bone co m p le te ly. This is
known as fre n ch in g th e bone. It is not
a b s o lu te ly necessary to fre n c h the
bone o f a suprem e.

8 . The suprem e on th e le ft does

n o t have a fre n ch e d bone w h ile the
suprem e on th e rig h t does have the 8
excess m ea t rem oved.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FIS H 395

 2 3

Trussing poultry

The object of trussing or tying any bird is to give it a smooth, compact shape
so that it will cook evenly and retain moisture. Several different methods for
trussing poultry exist, some involving trussing needles, some requiring only
string. One simple way of tying with string is shown here.

1. Cut away th e w ing tip and w ing fla p . Pass the m id dle o f a piece o f s trin g
u n derneath th e jo in ts a t th e end o f th e d ru m sticks, and cross th e ends o f the
s trin g to make an X. Pull th e ends o f th e s trin g down to w a rd th e ta il to loop
th e s trin g around the jo in ts .

2 . Pull bo th ends o f th e s trin g tig h tly across the jo in t th a t connects the

d ru m s tic k and th e th ig h and con tinu e to pull th e s trin g along th e body to w a rd
th e bird's back, ca tch in g th e w ing u n derneath the string .

3. Flip the bird over and pu ll th e s trin g tig h t. M ake an X across th e w ings to
hold the m tig h tly against the bird.

396 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 fabricating poultry
5

4. Pull th e ends o f th e s trin g un derneath th e backbone a t th e neck opening.

Tie the tw o ends o f th e s trin g w ith a secure knot.

5 . The fr o n t and re a rv ie w s o f a p ro p e rly tru s s e d bird.

ch a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S . POULTRY, A N D FISH 397

Halving and quartering poultry

Chicken and other birds may be halved or quartered before or after cook­
ing. Smaller birds, such as Cornish game hens and broiler chickens that are
to be grilled are often halved. These birds are small enough to cook through
completely before the skin becomes scorched or charred. If the bones are left
intact during grilling, they provide some protection against shrinkage.
In many restaurants, the ducks needed for an evening’s service will be
roasted in advance, then halved and partially deboned; then at service it is
necessary only to reheat the duck and crisp the skin in a hot oven.

1 . Cut fro m th e ta il to th e neck opening down e ith e r side o f th e backbone.

Pull upw ard s lig h tly w hile c u ttin g down, e x e rtin g enough pressure to cut
th ro u g h th e rib bones.

2. Lay o u t th e w hole bre ast, w ith th e bones fa cin g up. Use th e tip o f a bon­
ing k n ife to cu t th ro u g h the w h ite c a rtila g e a t th e ve ry to p o f th e keel bone.

398 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 fabricating poultry
3. Open th e b re a s t like a book. This bending a ctio n w ill expose th e keel
bone. Grab th e keel bone fir m ly and pull it and th e a tta ch e d c a rtila g e away
fro m th e b re a s t m eat. The c a rtila g e may break away fro m th e keel bone. Be
sure to rem ove th e e n tire s tru c tu re .

4. Cut th e chicken in to halves by m aking a cu t down th e c e n te r o f th e bird.

5 . S ep ara te th e leg and th ig h fro m th e b re a s t and w ing by c u ttin g th ro u g h

th e skin ju s t above w here th e b re a s t and th ig h m eet.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH 399

 3

Disjointing a rabbit

The technique for disjointing a rabbit is similar to that for a chicken. Rabbit
is a relatively lean, mildly flavored meat. The loin and rib sections are leaner
than the legs, in much the same way that chicken breast is leaner than the
legs. By removing the legs and shoulder, you can apply two different cook­
ing methods to one rabbit—moist heat for the legs, dry heat for the loin—to
achieve the most satisfactory results.

1 . Spread open th e be lly c a v ity o f th e ra b b it and pull o u t th e kidneys and

liver. Sever any m em brane a tta c h in g th e liv e r to th e cavity. Reserve th e live r
fo r an o th e r use, if desired.

2. Remove th e hind legs by c u ttin g th ro u g h th e jo in t and the n th ro u g h the

m eat to sep ara te th e hind leg fro m th e loin.

3. To sep ara te th e fr o n t legs and sho ulder fro m th e re s t o f th e body, pull

th e leg away fro m the body and cut th ro u g h th e jo in t.

400 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

 fabricating rabbit
5

4. Cut away the hind and f r o n t p o rtio n s o f th e loin to produce th e saddle.

5 . A fu lly d is jo in te d ra b b it is shown here, includ in g th e hind legs (top), sad­

dle, liver, kidneys, and fo re le g /s h o u ld e r sections.

ch a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH 401

 M uch of the fish pu r c h a sed by c h e fs is filleted either by han d or w ith specialized

FIL LE TI N G M A CH IN E S . T H E S E FISH F IL L ET S HA V E B E C O M E SO C O M M O N P L A C E THAT W H O L E FISH A RE

O F T E N M O R E D I F FI C U L T A N D E X P E N S I V E F OR T H E A V E R A G E C O M M E R C I A L F O O D S E L L E R TO OBTAIN A N D

T R A N S P O R T TO T H E L O C A L R E S T A U R A N T O R R E T A I L O P E R A T I O N . W H E N P U R C H A S I N G S E A F O O D F O R A

R E S T A U R A N T , W H O L E S A L E S E A F O O D S E L L E R S A R E M U C H B E T T E R E Q . U I P P E D TO H A N D L E W H O L E F I S H

A N D U N D E R S T A N D I TS Q . U A L I T Y .

fish fabrication
M o s t fis h fa ll in to one o f tw o categories: round o r fla t. Time, pra ctice, and experience w ill
help de te rm in e w hich o f a num ber o f techniques to use to fa b ric a te a p a rtic u la r fish . D if­
fe re n t m ethods can achieve v irtu a lly the same resu lts, and th e m ethods shown here are
n o t always the only way to proceed. The re a lity is th a t f ille tin g fis h is a messy process th a t
take s tim e , space, and skill, b u t freshn ess in d ica to rs such as clear eyes, aroma, b rig h t gills,
and firm n e ss o f th e fle sh cannot be evaluated if th e fis h is n o t whole. A long w ith evalua­
tio n o f th e q u a lity and freshness, it is much easier to d e te rm in e the species by lo okin g a t a
w hole fis h as opposed to fille ts , w ith th e added advantage th a t th e le fto v e r bones can be
used to make valuable fis h stock.
The basic procedure f o r scaling— th e f ir s t ste p in p re pa ring the fis h b e fo re any fu rth e r
fa b ric a tio n is done— applies to all typ e s o f fish. M etho ds d iffe r slig h tly, however, fo r g u t­
tin g round fis h and f la t fish. S im ilarly, the tech niq ue fo r fille tin g a round fis h is d iffe re n t
fro m th a t used fo r a f la t fish. In d e te rm in in g how to fa b ric a te a fis h , know ledge o f th a t p a r­
tic u la r fish's sp e c ific p ro p e rtie s is im p o rta n t (see C hapter 7, Fish and S he llfish Id e n tific a ­
tion ). O th er seafood, including crustaceans (lo bster, shrim p, crayfish , and crab), m ollusks
(clams, oysters, and mussels), and cephalopods (squid and octo pus) also m ust be ca re fu lly
handled to m aintain q u a lity and wholesom eness.

402 M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H

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Scaling and trim m ing fish Gutting round fish

Most fish—though not all—have
scales that must be removed as a first
step in fabrication. The best way to
remove scales is with a fish scaler;
but other tools (such as the dull side
of a knife, a table crumber, a spoon
handle) can be used if a scaler is not
available. The fins and tails can be
cut away at this point, or later when
the fish is gutted.
To scale a fish, work from the
tail toward the head, gripping the
fish by the tail, and allow water to
flow over the fish to help keep the
scales from flying around. Do not
pinch the fish too tightly as this
could bruise the flesh.
Fish viscera (guts) are typically re­
moved soon after the fish is taken
from the water, right on the fishing
boat. The enzymes in the viscera
can begin to break down the flesh
rapidly, leading to spoilage. If a fish
has not been gutted, this step should
be performed right after it has been
scaled.
To gut a round fish, make a slit
in the fish’s belly and pull out the
guts. Rinse the belly cavity thorough­
ly under cold running water to re­
move all traces of viscera and blood.

ch a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH 403

Filleting round fish: straight-cut method

Fillets are one of the most common fabrications for fish. These boneless
and (usually) skinless fish pieces can be sauteed, grilled, baked, formed into
paupiettes, or cut into tranches or goujonettes.
Round fish are fabricated into two fillets, one from each side of the fish.
There are two techniques for filleting a round fish. The first technique is used
on soft-boned, round fish like the salmon and trout family and Spanish mack­
erel. The name of the technique for soft-boned round fish is the straight-cut
method. The second, for use on hard-boned round fish, is called the up and
over technique.

1. Lay th e fis h on a c u ttin g board w ith the backbone p a rallel to th e w o rk

surface and th e head on th e same side as you r c u ttin g hand. Using a fille tin g 3
knife , cut behind th e head and g ill plates. Angle th e k n ife so th a t th e c u ttin g
m o tio n is down and away fro m th e body. This does n o t cu t th e head o f the
fis h away fro m th e body.

2. W ith o u t rem o ving th e kn ife , tu rn it so th a t th e c u ttin g edge is p o in tin g

to w a rd th e ta il o f th e fis h . P o sitio n th e k n ife so th a t th e handle is lo w er than
th e tip o f th e blade. This w ill im prove the yie ld by keeping th e knife 's edge
aim ed a t the bones, ra th e r than th e fle sh . Run the blade down th e length o f the
fish , c u ttin g a g ainst the backbone. Avoid saw ing th e blade back and fo rth .

3. By c u ttin g evenly and sm oo th ly, you w ill s p lit the ta il, as shown. Lay the
f ille t skin side down on th e w o rk surface o r in a h o te l pan.

404 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

 P
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4. Turn th e fis h over and re p e a t th e previous step s to rem ove th e second

fille t.

5 . Remove th e be lly bones by m aking sm oo th stro k e s ag ainst th e bones to

cut the m away cleanly. If necessary, cu t away th e rem n an ts o f th e backbone
by running th e blade ju s t un derneath th e line o f th e backbone.

6 . To rem ove th e skin, lay th e f ille t p a rallel to the edge o f the c u ttin g su r­
face. Hold th e k n ife so th a t th e c u ttin g edge is ag ainst th e skin; pu ll th e skin
ta u t w ith you r g u id ing hand as you cu t th e f ille t free.

7. Lo cate th e pin bones by running a fin g e rtip over th e fille t. Use needle-
nose p lie rs o r tw e e ze rs to pull o u t th e bones. Pull the m o u t in th e d ire c tio n o f
the head o f th e f ille t (w ith th e grain) to avoid rip p in g th e flesh .

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S . POULTRY, A N D FISH 405

Up and over technique fo r round fish

The up and over technique may be used only on hard-boned round fish. A
filet knife with a flexible blade should be used for this technique.

1. Lay th e fis h on th e c u ttin g board w ith th e b e lly away fro m you and the
head to w a rd your dom inant, c u ttin g hand. C ut th ro u g h th e belly, under the
p e c to ra l fin , and around th e g ill plate, m aking sure to g e t in to th e head.

2. Score th ro u g h the skin fro m th e head to ta il using one long s troke.

Continue m aking long, s tra ig h t stro k e s along th e back u n til you reach the
ce n te r bone.

3. Flex y ou r k n ife up and over th e c e n te r bone, c u ttin g th ro u g h the pin

bones.

4. Continue c u ttin g close to th e b e lly bones u n til the f ille t is fre e fro m the
carcass. S kinning is th e same as f o r th e s tra ig h t-c u t m etho d (see page 405).

406 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 c r
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Gutting fla t fish

Fish are typically gutted before they are shipped to market. If a fish has not
been gutted, this step should be performed immediately after scaling.

1 . To g u t a f la t fish , cu t around th e head, m aking a V -shaped notch.

2. Pull th e head away fro m th e body w h ile tw is tin g it s lig h tly . The g u ts w ill
come away w ith th e head. Rinse th e be lly c a v ity th o ro u g h ly under cold running
w a te r to rem ove all tra c e s o f visce ra and blood.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH 407

 1

Filleting fla t fish: making full fille ts

Flat fish can be fabricated into two fillets, one from the top and one from the
bottom of the fish.

1. To make tw o fille ts fro m a f la t fish , use a fille tin g k n ife to cut the fle s h
away fro m th e bones, s ta rtin g on an o u te r edge and w o rk in g fro m th e ta il
to w a rd th e head.

2. A d ju s t th e d ire c tio n and le ng th o f you r stro k e s to go over th e rid ge o f

bones in th e c e n te r o f th e fille t. Hold th e f ille t up and away fro m th e bones as
you w o rk to see th e bone s tru c tu re . Continue c u ttin g to th e o th e r edge and
rem ove th e to p f ille t in a single piece. Repeat on th e o th e r side.

408 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

Making four (or quarter) fille ts of fla t fish

Flat fish can be fabricated into four fillets by removing the fillet from each
side of the backbone on the top and again on the bottom.

1. P o sitio n th e fis h w ith th e head fa cin g to w a rd you. Cut to one side o f the
ce n te r ridge.

2. M ake cuts along th e bones, w o rk in g fro m the ce n te r to th e edge.

3. A fte r th e f ille t is rem oved, you can see th e roe sack and th e b e lly p o rtio n .
These should be trim m e d away fro m the f ille t as p a rt o f its p re p a ra tio n fo r
cooking.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH 409

Cutting fish into steaks

Fish steaks are simply crosscuts of the fish, and are relatively easy to cut. The
fish is scaled, gutted, and trimmed of its fins and gills. Steaks can be of virtu­
ally any thickness. Dames, a French term, are thick steaks. There are few flat
fish large enough to cut into steaks; however, round fish like salmon are gen­
erally fabricated in this fashion.
Starting with a scaled, gutted, and trimmed fish (in this case salmon),
use a chef’s knife to make crosswise cuts through the fish to yield steaks of
the desired size. Pan-dressed fish are smaller, dressed fish that are usually not
cut into steaks and are served whole.

410 MEATS. POULTRY, FISH, AND SHELLFISH


Tranche
A tranche is simply a slice of the
fillet. It is cut by holding the knife
at an angle while cutting to expose
more surface area and give the piece
of fish a larger appearance. A tranche
can be cut from any relatively large
fillet of fish—for example, salmon or
halibut. Though this cut is normally
associated with sauteed or pan-fried
dishes, a tranche is often grilled or
broiled.
Using a very sharp slicer, slice
across the fish at approximately a
45-degree angle. The greater the
angle of the knife, the more surface
area will be exposed.
Paupiette
A paupiette is a rolled thin fillet,
often—but not necessarily—filled
with a forcemeat or other stuffing.
Properly prepared, it resembles a
large cork. Paupiettes are generally
made from lean fish such as flounder
or sole, although they may also be
made from some moderately fatty
fish such as trout or salmon. The
most common preparation technique
for paupiettes is shallow poaching.
Chapter 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S. POULTRY. A N D FISH
fabricating fish
Goujonette
The name for this cut is derived from
the French name for a small fish,
the goujon. Goujonettes are small
strips cut from a fillet; they are of­
ten breaded or dipped in batter and
deep-fried. This cut has about the
same dimensions as an adult’s index
finger. Goujonettes are normally cut
from lean white fish such as sole or
flounder.
Make even, finger-size cuts from
the prepared fillet by cutting at an
angle across the grain of the flesh.
4 11
 2

Dover sole

Dover sole is handled in a special way. Many chefs like to skin the fish before
filleting it. The skin is freed from the tail with a filleting knife, then simply
pulled away.

1 . Cut away th e fin s w ith kitche n scissors.

2 . M ake an in itia l cu t to fre e th e skin fro m the fle s h o f th e ta il. Hold th e ta il

firm ly and pull the skin away b e fo re fille tin g .

412 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

 fabricating shellfish
The m ain s h e l l f i s h c a t e g o r i e s a r e a s f o l l o w s : crustaceans , w i t h j o i n t e d s k e l e t o n s ON T H E

E X T E R I O R OF T H E I R BODI ES; M O LLUSK S, WI TH A S I N G L E ( U N I V A L V E ) OR A H I N G E D ( B I V A L V E ) S H E L L ;

A N D CEPHALOPODS, WI TH T E N T A C L E S . L O B S T E R , S H R I M P , C R A Y F I S H , A N D C R A B A R E A L L C R U S T A C E A N S ;

M O L L U S K S INCLUDE CLAMS, OYSTERS, AND MUSSELS; SQUID AND OCTOPUS ARE CEP H A LO P O D S .T H E Y

ARE A L L PREPARED BEFORE COOKING USING A VARIETY OF FABRICATION TECHNIQUES.

shellfish
fabrication

Working with live lobster

Lobster is best when purchased alive.

The first step in preparing a lobster
to boil or steam is to kill it. Lobsters
can also be split before they are
broiled or baked.

1. Leave th e bands on th e lo b ­
ster's claws and lay it, stom ach side
down, on a w o rk surface. In se rt the
tip o f a chef's k n ife in to the base o f
the head. Pull th e k n ife all th e way
down th ro u g h th e shell, s p littin g the
head in half.

2. S p lit th e ta il by re ve rsin g th e d i­
re c tio n o f th e lo b s te r and p o s itio n in g
th e tip o f th e k n ife a t th e p o in t w here
you made you r in itia l cut. Then cut
th ro u g h th e shell o f th e ta il section.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH 413

 ■

1 2

Cooked lobster

The flesh of a lobster or other crustacean adheres tightly to the shell until it
has been cooked. Lobster that will be served out of the shell or used in salads,
stuffings, or as a garnish can be cooked whole by steaming, grilling, or deep
poaching. Once the lobster is cool enough to handle, the meat can be re­
moved from the shell easily.
The edible meat can be removed from a lobster, as shown, to produce a
large tail portion and intact claw sections as well as smaller pieces from the
knuckles and legs. The lobster’s tomalley (liver) and coral (eggs; only in fe­
males) are removed and used as ingredients in stuffing, sauce, or butter.

1. Hold th e ta il sectio n secu rely in one hand and hold th e body o f th e lo b ­

s te r w ith th e other. T w ist your hands in o p p o s ite d ire ctio n s, p u llin g th e ta il
away fro m th e body.

2. Use scisso rs to cut down bo th sides o f the underside o f the lo b s te r ta il.

Pull the ta il m ea t o u t o f th e shell. It should come away in one piece.

414 M EATS, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 fabricating shellfish
D. Use th e heel o r back o f a c h e fs k n ife to crack th e claws.

4. Use you r fin g e rs to p ry th e shell aw ay fro m th e m eat. The claw m eat

should also com e o u t in a single piece, re ta in in g th e shape o f th e claw.

5. Use th e k n ife to cu t th ro u g h th e knuckles. Pull o u t th e knuckle m eat.

Chapter 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH 415

Shrimp

To clean shrimp, remove the shell and the vein that runs along the back of
the shrimp either before or after cooking. Shrimp that have been boiled or
steamed in the shell are moister and plumper than shrimp that were peeled
and deveined before cooking. Shrimp that will be served cold—in appetizers
or salads, for example—can be cooked in the shell. Shrimp dishes that are
sauteed or grilled usually call for the shrimp to be peeled and deveined before
cooking. The shells can be reserved for other uses, such as making shrimp
stock, bisque, or shellfish butters.

1. To devein a shrim p, lay th e shelled shrim p on a w o rk surface, w ith the

curved o u te r edge on the same side as you r c u ttin g hand. Slice in to the
shrim p w ith a parin g or u tility kn ife ; make a shallow cu t f o r deveining o r a
deeper cu t f o r b u tte r f lying th e shrim p.

2. Use th e t ip o f th e k n ife to scrape o u t th e "vein" (in te s tin a l tra c t).

3. As an a lte rn a tiv e , to rem ove th e vein w ith o u t c u ttin g th e shrim p, hook it

w ith a to o th p ic k o r skew er and pu ll it o u t com p le te ly.

416 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 fabricating shellfish
Cleaning soft-shell crab

A seasonal favorite, soft-shell crabs are considered a great delicacy. They are not
especially difficult to clean once their various parts are identified.
Soft-shell crabs are commonly prepared by sauteing or pan-frying, and
the shell may be eaten along with the meat.

1 . Peel back th e p o in te d shell and scrape away the g ill fila m e n ts on each
side.

2 . Cut the eyes and m outh away fro m the head ju s t behind the eyes, and
squeeze g e n tly to fo rc e o u t the green bubble, which has an unpleasant flavor.

3. Bend back th e ta il fla p (or apron) and pu ll w ith a s lig h t tw is tin g m otion.
The in te s tin a l vein is drawn o u t o f th e body a t th e same tim e .

4. The cleaned crab w ith th e ta il fla p , head, and g ill fila m e n ts removed.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH 417

Oysters Crayfish

Open oysters by prying open the hinge holding the two shells together. When Crayfish share many similarities with
opening oysters (and clams), be sure to reserve any juices, which are some­ lobster, but they are much smaller. If
times referred to as liquor. The liquor adds great flavor to soups, stews, and live, pick through them and discard
stocks. any dead ones. (They can also be pur­
chased frozen whole, or as just tails.)
1. W ear a w ire mesh glove to hold the oyster, po sitio n e d so th a t the hinged It is relatively simple to remove the
side is fa cin g outw ard. W ork the tip o f an o y s te r kn ife in to the hinge holding the vein from the crayfish before cook­
upper and low er shells to g e th e r and tw is t the kn ife to break open th e hinge. ing, though this may be done after­
ward, if preferred.
2. Once open, slide the k n ife over th e inside o f th e to p shell to release the Crayfish may be boiled or
o y s te r fro m the shell. M ake a s im ila r s tro k e to release th e o y s te r fro m the steamed in the shell. They can be
b o tto m shell. served as is, whole, or they can be
peeled after cooking to pick out the
tail meat.

418 M EAT S. POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 fabricating shellfish
Clams Mussels

Wear a wire mesh glove to protect the hand holding the clam. Work the side Mussels are rarely served raw, but
of a clam knife into the seam between the upper and lower shells. the method for cleaning them before
steaming and poaching is similar to
1. Place th e clam in your hand so th a t the hinged side is to w a rd th e heel o f that used for clams. Unlike clams
your hand. The fin g e rs o f you r gloved hand can be used to bo th help guide the and oysters, mussels often have a
k n ife and give it e xtra fo rc e . T w ist th e blade s lig h tly , like a key in a lock, to dark, shaggy beard. It is normally
p ry open th e shell. removed before cooking.
Pull the beard away from the
2 . Once th e shell is open, slide th e k n ife over th e inside o f th e to p shell to shell. Removing the beard kills the
release the clam fro m th e shell. M ake a s im ila r s tro k e to release th e clam fro m mussel, so perform this step as close
th e b o tto m shell. to service as possible.

c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH 419

Cleaning squid

Octopus and squid belong to a category of shellfish known as cephalopods.

They must be properly cleaned and cut to make the most of their flavor and
texture in any cooked dish. Small squid and octopi are tender and moist when
properly handled, even when cooked quickly and at high temperatures. Larger
ones are better prepared by braising or stewing.
The squid mantle can be cut into rings to saute, pan fry, or deep fry; or
the squid may be left whole to grill or braise, with or without a stuffing. If
desired, the ink sac can be saved and used to prepare various dishes, which
will turn a dramatic black color.

1. Pull the mantle and the tentacles apart. The eye, ink sac, and intestines w ill
come away w ith the tentacles.

2. Pull th e tra n s p a re n t q u ill fro m th e m an tle and discard.

3. Pull away as much o f th e skin as po ssib le fro m th e m antle. D iscard the

skin.

420 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 cleaning octopus and squid
3 4 5

4. Cut th e te n ta c le s away fro m th e head by m aking a cut ju s t be lo w the eye.

If desired, reserve th e ink sac. D iscard th e re s t o f the head.

D. Open the te n ta c le s to expose th e beak. Pull it away and discard. The te n ­

ta cle s may be le ft w hole if th e y are sm all or cu t in to pieces if th e y are large.
Once th e squid is cleaned, rinse it in cold w ater.

ch a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH 421

Cleaning octopus

Octopus is typically sold already cleaned. However, you may occasionally

need to remove the viscera and beak (sometimes known as the eye). If the
octopus you purchase has already been cleaned, simply cut the head away
from the legs, and cut each piece into the appropriate size. Baby octopi are
typically cooked whole.

1. Use a pa rin g k n ife to cu t around the “eye" (beak) and l i f t it fro m the
octopus.

2. Peel th e skin away fro m th e body by p u llin g firm ly .

3. Pull the su ctio n cups away fro m the te n ta c le s if desired. The octo p u s is
ready to use.

422 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

 roasting
Some cooking methods rely on dry heat without fats or oils. The food is
cooked either by a direct application of radiant heat (grilling and broiling)
or by indirect heat in an oven (roasting and baking). The result of these
cooking methods is a highly flavored exterior and a moist interior.
 G rilling a n d broiling a re quick cooking tec h n iq u es u sed for n a t u r a lly ten d er portion -

size or s m a l l e r pieces of m eat , p o u ltr y , or fish . By c o n tra st , roasting and baking require

a lo n g e r c o o king tim e an d a r e f r e q u e n t l y u sed w ith la r g e r cuts of m eat ,w h o le birds , and

D R E S S E D FISH.

grilling, broiling,
and roasting
G rillin g cooks fo o d w ith rad ia nt heat fro m a source lo cated below it. Some o f th e ju ices are
reduced d ire c tly on the fo o d w hile th e re s t drip away. G rilled fo o d s have a s lig h tly sm oky
flavo r, re s u ltin g fro m th e ju ices and fa ts th a t are rendered and lig h tly charred as th e foo d
cooks, as w ell as fro m d ire c t co n ta ct w ith th e rods o f the g rill rack.
B ro ilin g is sim ila r to g rillin g b u t uses a heat source lo cated above th e fo o d ra th e r than
below it. The sauce th a t accom panies a g rille d o r b ro ile d ite m is prepared separately.
Tender p o rtio n -s iz e cuts o f p o u ltry, cuts o f m eat fro m the loin, rib, o r to p round, and
fille ts o f such f a t ty fis h as tuna, sw o rdfish , and salm on are su ite d to g rillin g and broiling.
Lean fis h or w hole sm all fis h such as Dover sole or sm all flo u n d e rs may also be g rille d or
b ro ile d i f th e y are coated w ith oil or an oil-based m arinade and cooked in a hinged hand g rill
to pre ven t them fro m bre aking a p a rt durin g th e cooking process. D elicate fo o d s like lean
w h ite fis h are brushed w ith b u tte r o r oil, put on a heated, oiled sizzler p la tte r, and placed
on the rack below th e b ro ile r's heat source. Some le ss-te n d e r cuts o f m eat, such as hanger
or fla n k steak, may also be used if the y are cut very thin.
When p re pa ring fo o d s fo r g rillin g o r broiling, all m ea t and fis h should be o f an even
thickness. Cut to an even thickn ess and pound lig h tly if necessary to fu rth e r even th ic k ­
ness. Very th ic k cuts o f m eat or fis h may also be b u tte r f lied so th a t the ite m may be cooked
fro m s ta rt to fin is h on the g rill or in the broiler. M ea t should be trim m e d o f excess fa t and
all silverskin and g ris tle . Some fo o d s are cu t in to strip s , chunks, o r cubes and the n th re a d ­
ed on to skewers. The fo o d its e lf should be seasoned and in some cases, lig h tly oiled.
D iffe re n t p a rts o f th e g rill or b ro ile r are h o tte r than others. D ivide th e g rill in to zones
o f varying heat in te n s ity , including a ve ry h o t sectio n fo r q u ickly searing fo o d s and cooking
them to a rare doneness, an area o f m od era te heat fo r cooking fo o d s to a m edium -rare or
m edium doneness, and an area o f low heat fo r slow cooking to a m edium -w ell or well. Low
heat can also be used to keep fo o d s warm . (If the g rill is w ood- or ch a rco a l-fire d , set aside
an area f o r ig n itin g the fue l; th is p a rt is to o h o t and sm oky to use to cook fo o d s d irectly.)
Zones may also be a lloca ted fo r d iffe re n t typ e s o f foo ds, to pre ven t an undesirable tra n s ­
fe r o f fla v o rs . D eveloping a system fo r placing fo o d s on the g rill or in th e broiler, w h e th e r
by fo o d ty p e or by range o f doneness, helps speed up w o rk on th e line.
W oods such as m esquite, hickory, o r apple are fre q u e n tly used to im p a rt special f la ­
vors. H ardw ood chips, herb stem s, grapevine trim m in g s, and o th e r aro m atics can be put
in a sm oker box (a s te e l box w ith holes) or w rapped in alum inum fo il w hich should be punc­
tu re d w ith a fe w holes. E ith e r o f these m ethods w ill allow th e sm oke to perm ea te th e g rill
w ith o u t allow in g th e aro m atics to ignite.
G rills and b ro ile rs m ust be w ell m aintained and kep t clean to produce a g o o d -q u a lity
g rille d or broiled entree. Take the tim e to prepare the g rill before, during, and a fte r service.

424 M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H

 grilling and broiling
Q basic formula
Grilling or Broiling Seasonings, including salt and Other accompaniments, including
(1 en tree portion) pepper or marinades, rubs, glazes, compound butters, brown sauces,
or barbecue sauce, if desired vegetable coulis, or salsas
1 portion (6 to 8 oz/170 to 227
g) meat, poultry, or seafood

'I

method
at-a-glance
Thoroughly clean and expert tips
preheat the g rill or broiler.

Season the g rill with a light

coating o f oil.
Season the main item and
marinate or brush it w ith
oil if necessary to prevent
sticking.
To season the main ingredient, there aremanyoptions.
Apply each one at the appropriate time, most typically before cooking.
M A R IN A D E S (E x c e s s m a r in a d e s h o u ld be w ip e d o f f t h e it e m b e f o r e g r illin g
t o p r e v e n t f la r e u p s ) SPIC E R UBS / PRESALTING (M a s s a g e t h e s a lt o r ru b in to
t h e it e m . A llo w i t t o s e t o v e r n ig h t a n d t h e n r in s e a n d t h o r o u g h ly d r y b e f o r e
g r il lin g )

4. Place the main item on the

g rill or broiler rods; use To add additional flavor, add items to the grill fire to create an
a hand g rill fo r delicate aromatic smoke, such as:
foods such as fish.
H AR D W O O D C H IP S / HERB S TE M S / G R A P E V IN E T R IM M IN G S

Turn the item 90 degrees

to produce crosshatch
marks, if desired.

6. Turn the item to complete

cooking to the desired
doneness.

Chapter 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTIN G 425

 1. turn on the grill or b ro ile r in advance
and allow th e heat to burn away old p a rtic u la te s fro m the
rods. Once any p a rtic u la te s have tu rn e d to w h ite ash, the y
may be brushed away w ith a w ire brush or w iped away w ith
a w e t cloth. W hen cleaning th e g rill w ith a clo th dipped in
oil be ca re fu l n o t to use an excessive am ount as it w ill cre­
ate excess sm oke and fla re -u p . Clean and o il m etal skew­
ers b e fo re use; soak wooden skew ers in w a te r to prevent
the m fro m cha rring to o much o r catch ing on fire . Hand
racks f o r d e lica te fo o d s or th o se th a t m ig h t be aw kw ard
to tu rn easily should also be cleaned and oiled between
uses to pre ve n t m ea t skin fro m s tic k in g and tearing.
S izzler p la tte rs , ton gs, o ffs e t spatulas, fle x ib le sp a tu ­
las, and brushes to ap ply glazes, m arinade, or barbecue
sauces should be p a rt o f th e g rill sta tio n 's eq uipm en t
m ise en place, as w e ll as all ite m s necessary fo r service
(heated plates, spoons, o r ladles).
It is necessary to keep th e rods clean during cooking.
A g rill brush should be on hand along w ith a damp to w e l fo r
w ipin g th e rods. If a fo o d is m arinate d in an oil-based m a ri­
nade, excess o il should be drained o f f p rio r to g rillin g to
pre ve n t fla re -u p s. A ny fla re -u p w ill im p a rt an undesirable
fla v o r and p o or appearance to th e fo o d being cooked.

2. let the food cook undisturbed

on th e f ir s t side b e fo re tu rn in g it over. This develops b e t­
te r fla v o r and also le ts th e fo o d ’s n a tural fa ts ( if any) help
release th e fo o d fro m th e g rill w ith o u t tea ring .
Place the seasoned fo o d on the pre he ated g rill or
b ro ile r rods to s ta rt coo kin g and to m ark it. The b e tte r-
lo o kin g (p re s e n ta tio n ) side always goes down on th e g rill
rods fir s t. W hen th e fo o d comes in to c o n ta c t w ith the
heated g rill rods, m arks are charred on to th e surface o f
th e fo o d . To m ark fo o d s w ith a crossh atch on a g rill, g e n tly
w o rk th e spa tula o r to n g s under th e fo o d , lift , and give it
a q u a rte r-tu rn (90 degrees). This is o fte n re fe rre d to as
th e ‘1 0 :0 0 / 2 :0 0 ’' m arking m ethod, alluding to how tho se
tim e s are placed on a clo ck's face.
Because m any barbecue sauces con tain sugar and
burn easily, it is usually a good idea to p a rtia lly cook the
fo o d b e fo re a p plying th e sauce. T hat way, as th e fo o d
fin ish e s cooking, th e sauce glazes and caram elizes lig h tly
w ith o u t burning. A single co a t o f sauce m ay be applied
to each side o f th e fo o d , o r to build up a th icke r, s lig h tly
cru s ty co a t o f sauce, th e fo o d m ay be brushed re p e a te d ly
w ith lig h t coa ts o f sauce.

426 ME A T S , POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 grilling and broiling
3. turn the food over and con tinu e co o k­
ing to th e de sire d doneness. Since m o st fo o d s cooked by
g rillin g o r b ro ilin g are re la tiv e ly th in and tender, th e y do
n o t req uire much m ore coo kin g tim e once th e y have been
tu rn e d over. T h icke r cuts or th o se th a t m ust be cooked to
a higher in te rn a l te m p e ra tu re m ay need to be moved to
a coo le r p o rtio n o f th e g rill o r b ro ile r so th a t th e y don't
develop a charred e xte rio r. (The b u tte r fly m ethod fo r
fa b ric a tin g s m a lle r cuts o f m ea t o r fis h may be ap plicab le
in th is case.) A n o th e r s o lu tio n is to rem ove th e th ic k e r
cuts fro m th e g rill o r b ro ile r a fte r th e y are m arked on
b o th sides and fin is h th e coo kin g in th e oven. For ban­
quets, fo o d s can be q u ickly m arked on th e rods o f a g rill
or broiler, ju s t b a re ly c o o kin g th e o u te r layers o f th e fo o d .
They can the n be laid o u t on racks over she et pans and
fin is h e d in th e oven. This approach allow s you to expand
th e p o te n tia l o u tp u t o f th e g rill or bro ile r. For fo o d s a fe ty
reasons, exercise e xtre m e care in c h illin g p a rtia lly cooked
fo o d q u ickly if it is to be held fo r any length o f tim e.
Remove th e m ea t o r fis h when it is s till s lig h tly un d e r­
done, so it does n o t end up overcooked by th e tim e it is
served. Even th in pieces o f m eat or fis h w ill re ta in some
heat, a llow in g th e m to cook a fte r th e y have been rem oved
fro m th e heat.
P ro p e rly pre pa red g rille d and b ro ile d fo o d s have
a d is tin c tly sm oky fla vo r, w hich is cre a te d by a lim ite d
am ount o f c h a rrin g and enhanced by th e a d d itio n o f h a rd­
w ood o r herb sprigs to th e g rill. This sm oky fla v o r and
arom a should n o t ove rpo w er th e fo o d 's na tural flavo r, and
th e ch a rrin g should n o t be so exte nsive th a t it gives the
fo o d a b itte r o r c arbonized ta s te . Any m arinades or glazes
should s u p p o rt and n o t m ask th e fo o d ’s n a tural flavo r.

PAN GRILLING

Pan grilling involves cooking foods on the
stove over intense heat in a heavy cast-iron
or other warp-resistant metal pan with a
ridged interior bottom. The thick ridges
create marks similar to a grill and hold
the food up and away from any juices or
fat that might collect. It is important to
consider, however, that pan grilling will
not impart the same flavor as will tradi­
tional grilling. Grills and broilers must be
well maintained and kept clean to produce
a good-quality grilled or broiled entree.
Take the time to prepare the grill before,
during, and after service.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING 427
 The fla v o r a nd a r o m a of a fo o d th a t has BEEN w e l l r o a sted c o n t r ib u t e to an o v e r a ll

S E N S A T IO N O F F U L L F L A V O R , R IC H N E S S , A N D D E P T H . T h e CO LO R H A S A D IR E C T B E A R IN G ON T H E FL A V O R

AS W E L L AS A P P E A R A N C E . F O O D S TH A T A R E TOO PALE LACK E Y E A P P E A L A N D D E P T H OF FLA V O R . W E L L -

R O A S T E D F O O D S A R E T E N D E R A N D M O I S T . T h E S K I N , I F L E F T O N T H E F O O D , S H O U L D BE C R I S P , C R E A T I N G

A C O N T R A S T W IT H T H E T E X T U R E OF T H E MEAT.

roasting
Roasting, w h ethe r by pan roasting, baking, sm oke-roasting, or poeleing, is a way o f cooking
by in d ire c t heat in an oven. The te rm baking is o fte n used interchangeably w ith roasting; how­
ever, it is m ost ty p ic a lly used in relation to breads, cakes, pastries, and the like.
S p it-ro a s tin g and ro tis s e rie cooking are m ore like g rillin g or bro iling . Cooking involves
placing the fo o d on a rod, which is tu rn e d e ith e r m anually or w ith a m otor. The ra d ia n t heat
given o f f by a fire or gas je t cooks the fo o d w hile co n sta n t tu rn in g creates a b a stin g e ffe c t
and ensures th a t th e fo o d cooks evenly.
R oasting is more sim ilar to baking than it is to s p it-ro a s tin g or ro tisse rie cooking. In an
oven, roasted fo o d s are cooked through con tact w ith dry heated air held in a closed environ­
ment. As the o u te r layers become heated, the food's natural juices tu rn to steam and pen­
e tra te the fo o d more deeply. The rendered juices, also called pan drippings or fond, are the
fou nda tion fo r sauces prepared w hile the roa st rests.
S m o ke -ro a stin g is an a d a p ta tio n o f ro a stin g th a t allow s fo o d s to ta ke on a rich, sm oky
flavo r. The fo o d cooks in a tig h tly closed en viro nm en t or in a sm oking setup. This can be
done over an open fla m e or in the oven.
R oasting com m only re fe rs to cooking large, n a tu ra lly tender, m u ltip o rtio n m eat cuts,
whole p o u ltry, and dressed fish . Tender m eats fro m the rib, loin, and leg give th e be st re ­
sults. Trim away any excess f a t and silverskin . A layer o f fa t o r p o u ltry skin helps to baste
fo o d s n a tu ra lly as th e y roast. Season m eats, p o u ltry, and fis h b e fo re ro a stin g to fu lly de­
velop th e ir flavo r. For a d d itio n a l fla v o r during roasting, fre s h herbs or a ro m a tic vegetables
may be used to s t u f f th e c a vity o f b irds or fis h or in se rte d under p o u ltry skin.
A good ro a stin g pan has re la tiv e ly low sides to allow hot air to c ircu la te fre e ly . S elect a
pan th a t holds the fo o d c o m fo rta b ly b u t is not so large th a t th e pan ju ice s scorch. Food to
be roa ste d may be se t on a ro a stin g rack or elevated by aro m atics, which p e rm its the hot
air to co n ta c t all o f the fo o d ’s surfaces. The pan should rem ain uncovered.
The oven should be preheated. There are d iffe re n t techniques regard ing oven te m p e r­
atu re s fo r roa sting . Some ite m s are ro a ste d very qu ickly a t high te m p e ra tu re s. O thers are
begun a t low te m p e ra tu re s, then fin ish e d a t a higher te m p e ra tu re . S till o th e rs are s ta rte d
at a high te m p e ra tu re , then fin ish e d at a low er te m p e ra tu re . Roast large cuts such as prim e
rib a t a low to m edium te m p e ra tu re th ro u g h o u t roa sting . S ta rt sm aller or m ore de lica te
fo o d s a t a low to m edium te m p e ra tu re (30 0° to 3 2 5 °F /1 4 9 ° to 163°C) and then brown
the m a t th e very end o f ro a stin g by increasing th e oven to 3 5 0 ° to 3 7 5 ° F /1 7 7 ° to 191°C.
You may need butcher's tw in e or skewers, as w ell as an in sta n t-re a d th e rm o m e te r and
a kitche n fo rk . Have an a d d itio n a l pan to hold the roa ste d fo o d w hile a sauce is made fro m
the pan drippings. S tra in e rs and skim m ers or ladles are needed to prepare the sauce. Have
a carving board and an e xtre m e ly sharp carving k n ife nearby fo r fin a l service.

428 M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H

 roasting
Q b a sic fo rm u la

Roasting Meat, l o z / 2 8 g Mirepoix (page PAN GRAVY

Poultry, or Seafood 2 4 3 ),p e r l l b / 4 5 4 g m e a t Stock (fo rtifie d or regular)
(1 roast)
Seasonings
Mirepoix or other
1 roast meat, poultry, or seafood
aromatic vegetables
trimm ed as desired, trussed or tied 2 fl o z /6 0 mL prepared pan
sauce, pan gravy, or other sauce
A thickener such as roux or pure
as appropriate per portion
starch slurry; in some cases, the
pureed mirepoix may be used
to thicken, and reduction is also
m eth o d used to thicken pan sauces

at-a-glan ce
j . Season, s tu ff, m arinate, ex p ert tips
bard, or lard th e main item ,
and sear it over d ire c t heat
or in a h ot oven, i f desired. To develop additional flavo r and color, sear the item
before roasting. Once the foods have been seasoned and tied or trussed, they
2. Elevate th e ite m in a
may be seared in hot fa t on the stovetop, under a broiler, or in a very hot oven.
ro a stin g pan so th a t h o t air
Searing is an effective way to develop flavor and color in longer, slower cook­
can reach all sides.
ing methods.
3. R oast th e ite m uncovered
u n til the desired in te rn a l Basting is a technic|ue th a t both adds flavor and moisture. If the
te m p e ra tu re is reached. Be food is lean and does not release enough fa t of its own for basting, any one of
sure to allow fo r carryover the following may be used:
cooking.
M ELTED B U TTE R / OIL / M A R IN A D E S
4 . Add the m ire p o ix to the
ro a stin g pan fo r pan gravy
Pan sear items th a t are sma Her or have a smooth fia t sur­
during th e fin a l h a lf hour o f
face— such as a striploin. Oven sear items th a t have an irregular shape. Oven
ro a stin g tim e , i f desired.
tem perature fo r searing should be set at 4 2 5 ° to 4 5 0 °/2 1 8 ° to 232°C
5. L e t th e roa sted ite m re st
b e fo re carving. If roasts are drastically trim m ed , an alternative "skin"
should be added in the form of a coating or crust. D iffe ren t ingredients may be
6 . Prepare the pan gravy in
combined with a small amount o f fa t and used to form this crust, such as:
th e ro a stin g pan.
BARDING: T y in g t h in s h e e ts o f f a t b a c k , b a c o n , o r c a u l f a t a ro u n d a fo o d
7. Carve th e main ite m
SEA S O N ED D RIED POTATO FLAK ES / RICE FLA K ES / C O R N FLA K E S /
and serve it w ith th e
C O R N M E A L / FIN E L Y G R O U N D D RIED M U S H R O O M S
a p p ro p ria te gravy or sauce.

Items may also beglazed to add flavor. To do this, use a stock-

based or fruit-based liquid.

Foods such as whole birds , chicken breasts, and chops may

be stuffed before roasting. Season the stuffing and chill it to below 4 0°F/4°C
before combining it with raw meat, fish, or poultry. Allow enough tim e for the
seasonings to interact with the food before roasting.

chapter 17 » GRI L LI NG, BROI LI NG, A N D R OA S TI NG 429

 COOKING SLOW AND LOW: SMOKING AND BARBECUING
These techniques continue to grow in pop­
ularity with diners and can be a profitable
addition to a menu for any chef, presum­
ing they have the correct equipment and
use the proper techniques.
SMOKING
The technique of smoking cooks meat at
a low temperature for a lengthy period of
time, infusing it with flavor from the smoke
and making it very tender by the end of
the cooking process. Chefs can use tough
cuts of meat for smoking, as the length of
the cooking will break down the connec­
tive tissues in the meat. Some cuts that are
ideal for smoking include beef brisket, pork
shoulder, and beef or pork ribs.
TIPS FOR SM OKING AND
BARBECUING
» Most recipes call for excess fat and gristle
to be trimmed from meat prior to cooking.
However, it is important not to remove too
much fat from cuts o f meat that are to be
used for smoking and barbecuing. The fat
present (especially the fat cap on the sur­
face o f the meat) will keep the meat moist
during cooking. If too much fat is trimmed
from the meat, the meat will easily dry out
over the length of cooking time required for
these methods.
» Dry rubs are ideal for this type of cooking,
because they season the meat and provide
excellent flavor without burning during
cooking. Barbecue sauces and marinades,
while flavorful, tend to contain sugar and
430 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
other ingredients that can bum easily.
Such sauces should be added at the end of
the cooking process or applied to the fin­
ished product or served on the side.
» The type o f wood used during the smoking
process will affect the final flavor o f the
meat. It is important to remember that
different types of wood will impart different
flavors into the meat, and some woods may
overpower certain cuts o f meat. Commonly
used woods include mesquite, cherry,
hickory, alder, pecan, and apple.
» The correct spacing of the meat in the
smoker is crucial to even cooking. Be cer­
tain that there is enough space between
pieces o f meat so that air and smoke can
circulate evenly around the meat as it
cooks.
» A smoke ring is a sign o f well-smoked
meat. It is created by a buildup o f nitric
acid on the surface o f the meat, which is
then absorbed into the meat. After cooking,
a ring, slightly pink in color, can be found
just under the outer crust. It can range in
thickness, but it is generally desired to be
Va to 14 in/6 to 12 mm.
REGIONAL STYLE DIFFERENCES
Smoking, barbecuing, and other slow-and-
low cooking styles are popular throughout
the world. Countries across Asia, Europe,
and the Caribbean have a wide range of
barbequing techniques as unique as the
regions themselves. In North America,
there are seven primary regional styles.

North Carolina: Pork—the whole hog—is
the primary choice o f meat for barbecue,
and sauces are thin and flavored
primarily with vinegar and ketchup or
another tomato product.
South Carolina: Also pork, and sauces are
also thin and vinegar-based, but flavored
heavily with mustard and other spices.
Kansas City: Both beef and pork are
popular, and the sauces are thick, sweet,
and tomato-based.
The interior o f a commercial smoker
Chapter 17 » GRI L LI NG, BROI LI NG, A N D ROA S TI NG
roasting
Texas: B eef and sausages. Known for a
thick, smokier sauce flavored with chiles
and spices such as cumin.
St. Louis: Pork ribs. A mild tomato-based
sauce. Not as thick as Kansas City-style,
and not as spicy as Texas-style.
Memphis: Pork shoulder. Thin, tomato-
based sauce that is often poured over ribs
after cooking.
Kentucky: Mutton. Known for its
distinctive “black” sauce, which is
flavored with bourbon, Worcestershire
sauce, and molasses.
This smoked brisket exhibits a distinct smoke
ring, the pink ring ju s t under its outer crust.
431
 1. use the fat and juices released by
th e fo o d its e lf f o r a tra d itio n a l b a stin g liquid. However, a
sep ara te b a s tin g liquid, such as a m arinade, glaze, o r f la ­
vore d o r plain b u tte r, may also be used.
Once th e fo o d has been seasoned and tie d or tru sse d ,
if necessary, it may be seared in h o t fa t on the s to ve to p ,
under a b ro ile r, o r in a ve ry h o t oven. Some fo o d s are not
seared, e sp ecially large cuts, since an extended ro a stin g
tim e w ill produce a de ep ly colore d e x te rio r even w ith o u t
an in itia l searing.
A rrange th e fo o d on a w ire rack in a s tra ig h t-s id e d
ro a s tin g pan. (The rack w ill help im prove air circu latio n.)
There should be enough room in th e pan so th a t fo o d f it s
c o m fo rta b ly and has enough space around it to allow fo r
th e a d d itio n o f aro m atics.
Place it in a pre he ated oven. Roast, a d ju sting oven
te m p e ra tu re as necessary. Baste as necessary th ro u g h o u t
cooking tim e (as shown in photograph).
B astin g re tu rn s som e m o is tu re to th e fo o d , p re v e n t­
ing it fro m d ryin g out. The b a stin g liquid also im p a rts ad­
d itio n a l flavo r. A lte rn a tiv e b a stin g liquids such as m elte d
b u tte r, oil, o r m arinades are p a rtic u la rly use ful if the fo o d
is lean and does n o t release enough f a t o f its own fo r
basting. For a pan sauce o r gravy, add m ire p o ix o r o th e r
a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts to th e ro a s tin g pan, if desired.

2. use an instant-read th e rm o m e te r to
de te rm in e doneness in ro a ste d fo o d s. To g e t th e m ost
accu rate read, th e th e rm o m e te r m ust be in se rte d a t least
as fa r as th e sm all d im ple on th e stem . N o tice th a t the
ste m is in se rte d in to th e ite m ’s th ic k e s t pa rt, away fro m
any bones.
R oast fo o d s to th e c o rre c t doneness and le t them
re s t b e fo re serving. M eats, fish, p o u ltry , and game are
g e n e ra lly cooked to a s p e c ifie d in te rn a l te m p e ra tu re
(see page 36 7). When th e fo o d is nearly done, rem ove it
fro m th e pan and allow it to rest. Cover the fo o d loosely
w ith fo il to keep it m o is t and place it in a w arm s p o t to
re st. R esting plays a key role in ca rryo ve r cooking, which
should be th o u g h t o f as th e la s t stage o f cooking. A llo w a
re s tin g pe rio d o f a b o u t 5 m inutes f o r sm all item s, 15 to
20 m in utes f o r m edium item s, and up to 45 m in utes fo r
ve ry large roa sts. This is done because as fo o d s roast,
th e ir ju ice s becom e co n ce n tra te d in th e center. A re stin g
p e rio d b e fo re c u ttin g in to th e fo o d gives th e ju ice s tim e
to re d is trib u te evenly th ro u g h o u t. R esting also le ts the
te m p e ra tu re o f th e fo o d equalize, which b e n e fits te x tu re ,
arom a, and fla vo r.

432 M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 roasting
3. serve roasted foods w ith a pan sauce
based on th e accu m ulated drip p in g s fro m th e fo o d . Jus
and pan gra vy are th e m o st fre q u e n tly p re pa red pan
sauces. Onions, ca rro ts , celery, g a rlic, o r o th e r a ro m a tic
veg etab le s o r herbs added to th e pan du rin g ro a stin g
w ill have brow ned and ro a ste d in the dripp ing s. They w ill
have a deep c o lo r and w ill have absorbed som e o f the
fla v o r fro m th e drip p in g s, so th a t th e y can p ro p e rly fla v o r
and co lo r th e fin is h e d pan sauce. B e fo re p re p a rin g any
pan sauce, be sure th a t th e drip p in g s are n o t scorched.
Scorched d rip p in g s re s u lt in a b itte r, unpa lata ble sauce.
To make a pan gravy, place th e ro a s tin g pan on th e
s to v e to p and cook th e drip p in g s over m edium heat u n til
th e m ire p o ix is brow ned and th e f a t is tra n s p a re n t and
clear. The ju ice s w ill have sep ara te d fro m th e f a t and
cooked down to a fo n d on th e b o tto m o f th e pan. For a pan
gravy, pour o f f th e fa t, b u t leave enough to pre pa re a roux
by coo kin g th e f a t and som e flo u r to g e th e r. If p re p a rin g a
jus, flo u r is n o t used.

4. after the roux browns, gradually

add the sto ck to the pan and s tir c on stantly to w ork out any
lumps. Be sure the liquid is n o t to o hot or it may spatter.
Add th e s to c k and sim m e r th e pan g ra vy o r jus. Cook
a pan gra vy u n til th icke n e d and th e fla v o r has developed,
b u t f o r a m inim um o f 2 0 m in u te s to ensure th e sta rch in
the flo u r is s u ffic ie n tly cooked. To prepare a jus, pour o f f
all o f th e rem a ining f a t and deglaze th e pan, if desired,
w ith w ine o r a n o th e r liquid. A dd a s to c k th a t s u its the
ro a ste d fo o d . S im m e r u n til th e fla v o r is w e ll developed,
15 to 20 m inutes. S kim th e ju s as it sim m ers to rem ove
f a t and p a rtic le s fro m th e surface. A jus m ay be cooked
down u n til th icke n e d , o r to pre pa re a ju s lie, th icke n the
ju s w ith an a rro w ro o t o r co rn sta rch s lu rry ju s t b e fo re
strain in g.

C hapter 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING 433


BARDING AND LARDING
Two traditional preparation techniques
for roasted foods that are naturally lean
are barding (tying thin sheets of fatback,
bacon, or caul fat around a food) and lard­
ing (inserting small strips of fatback into
a food). The extra fat provides additional
flavor and also helps keep the meat tender
and juicy. Venison, wild boar, game birds,
and certain cuts of beef or lamb are candi­
dates for barding or larding.
Variations using different products are
also employed to give different flavors to
roasted foods. For example, rather than
being larded with fatback, a roast may be
studded with slivers of garlic. The garlic
434 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
5. use a fine-mesh sieve to stra in
th e pan gra vy or ju s in to a clean h o ld ing co n ta in e r fo r
storag e o r in to a pan to keep w arm f o r service. Hold the
fin is h e d pan gra vy o r jus in a steam ta b le or w a te r bath
like any o th e r sauce. Hold a ju s by covering it w ith a tig h tly
f it t in g lid.
will not have the same moisture-retention
effect as the fatback, but it will add plenty
of flavor.
Today, due to increased concerns over
the amount of fat in diets, often every trace
of visible fat or skin is removed in an effort
to reduce fat in the fined dish, even though
the amount of fat released from skin or fat
layers as foods roast does not penetrate
far into the meat. Fat and skin provide
some protection from the drying effects
of an oven without dramatically changing
the amount of fat in the meat, and foods
stripped of their natural protection of fat
or skin can become dry and lose flavor.
 carving techniques
L a r g e r o a s t e d f o o d s m u s t be c a r v e d o r c u t in t o p o r t io n s c o r r e c t l y to m a k e t h e m o s t o f

th e it e m . T h e t h r e e it e m s c a r v e d o n t h e f o l l o w i n g p a g e s — a w h o l e d u c k , a r ib r o a s t o f b e e f ,

A N D A H A M — S H O U L D BE C O N S I D E R E D P R O T O T Y P E S F O R O T H E R M E A T S . F O R E X A M P L E , B E C A U S E T H E Y

A R E S I M I L A R I N S T R U C T U R E , A L E G O F L A M B W O U L D BE C A R V E D IN T H E S A M E M A N N E R A S T H E H A M .

carving
techniques

Carving a roast duck

When a guest orders duck, this pre­

sentation is the most user friendly.
Most of the bones are removed so
that the leg portion has only the
drumstick bone and the breast por­
tion has a single wing bone. The two
are nestled together so that the bone­
less breast and thigh meat overlap.
The guest can simply cut into the
meat without having to work around
bones.

1 . Cut th e legs away fro m the

body a t th e p o in t w here th e leg
m ee ts th e bre ast. Pull th e leg away
fro m th e body to reveal th e jo in t;
cut th ro u g h th e b a ll-a n d -so cke t
jo in t to sever it c o m p le te ly.

2. Use th e boning k n ife to cut

along e ith e r side o f th e keel bone.

chapter 17 » GRI L LI NG, BROI LI NG, A N D R OAS TI NG 435

Carving a roast duck, continued

3. Carve th e b re a s t away fro m th e rib cage w ith as litt le trim loss as pos­
sible by m aking th e edge o f th e blade run as close to th e bones as you can.

4. Pull th e th ig h bone up and aw ay fro m th e th ig h m eat. Use th e k n ife as

shown to sep ara te th e bone a t th e leg jo in t.

5 . To nest th e leg and b re a s t p o rtio n s fo r p re se n ta tio n , p o s itio n th e leg p o r­

tio n on th e b o tto m and th e b re a s t p o rtio n ove rla p p in g th e leg, w ith th e d ru m ­
s tic k bone and th e w ing bone on o p p o s ite sides.

436 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H


Carving a beef rib roast
A beef rib roast is a large cut and is
easiest to handle when turned on its
side. This carving method can also
be used for a rack of veal or venison.
These smaller roasts need not be
turned on their sides, and cuts are
made from top to bottom between
the bones. The meat can be cut away
from the bones to make slices or the
bones may be left in place to produce
chops.
1 . Lay th e rib ro a s t on its side.
Using a slicin g kn ife , make p a rallel
cuts fro m th e o u te r edge to w a rd
the bones. Use th e k n ife tip to cut
th e slices o f m ea t away fro m the
bone. S to re cu t side up if necessary
to pre ve n t ju ic e loss.
carving techniques
Carving ham in the dining room
This carving method may also be 2. W hen th e slices becom e very
used for legs of lamb and steamship large, begin to cu t th e m ea t a t a s lig h t
rounds. angle, f ir s t fro m th e le ft side, then
fro m th e rig h t side, a lte rn a tin g u n til
1 . A fte r th e end piece has been th e leg is e n tire ly sliced.
cu t away, make p a ra lle l cuts fro m
th e shank end down th e bone. Con­
tin u e c u ttin g slices o f m ea t fro m
th e leg, c u ttin g aw ay fro m th e bone
to make even slices. The in itia l cuts
are made v e rtic a lly , u n til th e bone
is reached.
c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING 437
Carving a ham in the kitchen

1. Stand th e ham on end, w ith th e s irlo in end re s tin g on th e board. Hold

th e shank end w ith your g u id ing hand to keep th e ham stab le. M ake a cut
in to th e lean m eat ju s t below th e s tifle jo in t on th e shank end and fo llo w the
n a tural curve o f th e fem ur. Cut close to th e bone f o r th e b e st yield.

2. A t th e b a ll-a n d -so cke t jo in t, cu t around the jo in t. This f ir s t cut w ill not

co m p le te ly cu t th e m eat away fro m th e bone. Remove th e to p piece o f m eat
fro m th e aitch bone.

3. Repeat th e same sequence o f cuts on th e second side o f th e bone to

c o m p le te ly fre e th e m eat. The m ea t w ill appear to have a V-shaped notch
where it was cu t aw ay fro m th e bone.

438 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 n
P
t-i
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ro
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t r
2
i—>•
h Q
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ro
CZ!

4. C ut aw ay th e m ea t fro m th e back side o f th e fem ur. Try to keep the

pieces o f m ea t as in ta c t as possible.

5 . Cut th e la rg e r pieces o f ham in to m anageable pieces th a t can be sliced

in to p o rtio n s.

6 . Carve th e ham in to slices w ith a s lice r as shown. The ham could also be
sliced on an e le c tric m ea t slicer.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING 439
 Grilled or Broiled
Sirloin Steak with
Mushroom Sauce
Makes 10 servings
Ten 10 -o z/2 8 4 -g sirloin steaks
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
V/2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
3 tb s p /4 5 mL vegetable oil
20 ft o z/6 0 0 mL Mushroom Sauce (recipe follows)
1 . Preheat the grill or broiler.
2 . Season the steaks with salt and pepper.
3 . Place the steaks presentation side down on the grill
rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undis­
turbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each
steak a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
4 . Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the
desired doneness, about 5 minutes more for rare
(internal temperature of i35°F/57°C), 6V2 min­
utes for medium-rare (i45°F/63°C), 8 minutes for
medium (i6o°F/7i°C), 9 minutes for medium-
well (i65°F/74°C), and 11 minutes for well-done
(i7 0 0F/77°C).
5 . Heat the sauce. Serve each steak at once with 2 fl
oz/6o mL sauce.
G rilled o r B roiled S irlo in S teak w ith M a itre d’H o te l
B u tte r: Replace the mushroom sauce w ith 10 oz/2 84
g Maitre d’Hotel B utter (page 300), piped or sliced into
ten l-o z /2 8 -g servings. Top each cooked steak w ith the
butter. Place under a broiler or salamander until the
bu tte r begins to melt. Serve at once.
440 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Mushroom Sauce
Makes 32 fl 0Z/960 mL
V/2 o z/4 3 g minced shallot
2 o z/5 7 g clarified butter
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg sliced white mushrooms
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL dry white wine
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293)
4 o z/1 1 3 g whole butter, diced
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Sweat the shallots in the clarified butter in a small
rondeau over medium heat.
2 . Add the mushrooms and saute over high heat, stir­
ring often, until the juices have cooked away.
3 . Add the wine to deglaze the pan. Cook until the
wine is reduced by two-thirds.
4 . Add the demi-glace and simmer until the sauce has a
good consistency and flavor, about 5 minutes. Finish
the sauce with the whole butter (monte au beurre).
5 . Season with salt and pepper. The sauce is ready to
serve now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refriger­
ated for later use.
 grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Grilled or Broiled Marchand de Vin Sauce
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
Sirloin with Marchand
2 o z/5 7 g minced shallot
de Vin Sauce 2 thyme sprigs
Makes 10 servings
1 bay leaf

Ten 1 0 -o z/2 8 4 -g sirloin steaks V2 tsp / 1 g cracked black peppercorns

lt b s p /lO g s a lt 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL red wine

V A ts p /3 g ground black pepper 1 q t/9 6 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293)

3 tb sp /4 5 mL vegetable oil Salt, as needed

20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Marchand de Vin Ground black pepper, as needed

Sauce (recipe follows)
4 o z /1 13 g butter, diced

1 . Preheat the grill or broiler. 1 . Combine the shallots, thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns,
2 . Season the steaks with salt and pepper. Brush lightly and wine in a small rondeau. Bring the mixture to a
with oil. boil and reduce to a syrupy consistency, about 5 min­
3 . Place the steaks presentation side down on the grill utes.
rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undis­ 2.. Add the demi-glace and reduce to a nappe consis­
turbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each tency, 8 to 10 minutes.
steak a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
3 . Season with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce. Finish
4 . Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the with butter.
desired doneness, about 5 minutes more for rare 4 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or it may be rapidly
(internal temperature of 135°F/57°C), 6V2 min­ cooled and refrigerated for later use.
utes for medium-rare (i45°F/63°C), 8 minutes for
medium (i6o°F/7i°C), 9 minutes for medium-
well (i65°F/74°C), and 11 minutes for well-done
(i70°F/77°C).
5 . Heat the sauce. Serve each steak at once with 2 fl
oz/6o mL sauce.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTIN G 441
 Seitan Satay 5 . For the peanut sauce, heat the peanut oil in a me­
dium saute pan over medium heat. Stir in the curry
Makes 10 servings
paste and turmeric until the mixture bubbles slight­

SEITAN
ly, about 1 minute.
6 . Stir in the peanut butter, coconut milk, stock, lime
2 tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil
juice, and chili sauce and reduce the heat to low.
2 o z/5 7 g diced shallot
Cook, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes. When the
V 2 o z/1 4 g seeded and minced jalapeno liquid begins to bubble, remove from the heat and
'/ 2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic continue to stir for 1 minute. Add the peanuts, and
reserve for service.
V2 o z/1 4 g minced ginger
7 . Thread the marinated seitan onto the skewers. Grill
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL soy sauce
the seitan until nicely browned and heated through,
2 V2 f I o z/7 5 mL lime juice
3 to 4 minutes on each side. Serve with spicy peanut
2 tb sp /3 0 mL sesame oil sauce.
2 o z/5 7 g honey

2 tb sp /6 g roughly chopped cilantro

1 lb 14 o z/851 g seitan, cubed or

cut into V 4-in /6-m m strips

SPICY PEANUT SAUCE

2 tb sp /3 0 mL peanut oil

V2 o z/1 4 g Red Curry Paste (page 370)

1 ts p /2 g ground turmeric

9 o z/2 5 5 g peanut butter

8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL coconut milk

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Vegetable Stock (page 265)

3 tb sp /4 5 mL lime juice

2 'A f I o z/7 5 mL sweet Thai chili sauce

6 o z /1 7 0 g peanuts, toasted and coarsely chopped

1 . For the seitan, heat the olive oil in a small saute pan
over low heat. Add the shallots and jalapenos and
saute until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic
and ginger and saute until aromatic, about 1 minute
more. Transfer to a blender or food processor.
2 . Add the soy sauce, lime juice, sesame oil, honey, and
cilantro. Pulse until smooth. If the mixture is too
thick and pasty, add water 1 tbsp/15 mL at a time to
create a thick marinade.
3 . Transfer the mixture to a shallow hotel pan, and add
the seitan. Turn to coat each piece. Marinate, cov­
ered, in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour or up to
overnight.
4 . Soak wooden skewers in water for 30 minutes.

442 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Beef Teriya 8 . Remove the steaks from the grill and allow them to
Makes 10 servings rest for 5 minutes in a warm place. Slice each steak on
the bias into 5 pieces.
MARINADE 9 . Serve immediately with the vegetables.
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL light soy sauce

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL sake

6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL mirin

3 3/4 o z /1 0 6 g sugar
Barbecued Steak with
21/4 o z/6 4 g grated apple Herb Crust
Makes 10 servings
10 beef skirt steaks (about 6 o z/1 7 0 g each)

1 lb /4 5 4 g snow peas HERB CRUST

2 tb sp /3 0 mL vegetable oil 6 o z/1 7 0 g bread crumbs

20 medium white mushrooms caps 6 o z/1 7 0 g butter, melted

1 lb /4 5 4 g bean sprouts V 2 o z/1 4 g parsley, chopped

l'/2 ts p /5 g s a lt 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic

lt s p /3 g s a lt
1 . To make the marinade, combine the soy sauce, sake,
V i tsp /1 g ground black pepper
mirin, and sugar in a medium sauce pot and bring to
a boil. Remove from the heat, add the apple, and mix STEAKS

well. Cool completely. Ten 10 -o z/2 8 4 -g sirloin steaks

2 . Pour the marinade over the steaks in a hotel pan. 1 tb s p /lO g s a lt

Marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or
V / 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
up to overnight.
1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic
3 . Cut the snow peas diagonally in 2 or 3 pieces.
3 fl o z/4 5 mL vegetable oil
4 . Heat the oil in a saute pan or wok over medium-high
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL Barbecue Sauce (page 475; o p tio n a l)
heat. Add the mushroom caps, bean sprouts, and
snow peas and saute until just tender. Season with 1 . Preheat the grill or broiler.
salt. Reserve warm.
2.. Combine all of the ingredients for the herb crust and
5 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Drain excess marinade blend well. Reserve.
from the steaks; blot dry if necessary.
3 . Season the steaks with salt and pepper, rub with gar­
6 . Place the steaks presentation side down on the grill lic, and lightly brush with oil.
rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undis­
4 . Place the steaks presentation side down on the grill
turbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each
rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil the steaks
steak a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
undisturbed for about 2 minutes.
7 . Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the
5 . Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the de­
desired doneness, about 5 minutes more for rare
sired doneness, about 5 minutes more for rare (internal
(internal temperature of i35°F/57°C), 6V2 min­
temperature of 135°F/57°C), 6V2 minutes for medium-
utes for medium-rare (i45°F/63°C), 8 minutes for
rare (i45°F/63°C), 8 minutes for medium (i6o°F/7i°C),
medium (i6o°F/7i°C), 9 minutes for medium-
9 minutes for medium-well (i65°F/74°C), and 11 min­
well (i65°F/74°C), and 11 minutes for well-done
utes for well-done (i70°F/77°C).
(i70°F/77°C).
6 . Top the steaks with the herb crust and brown the top­
ping under a salamander or broiler. Serve the steaks at
once, with barbecue sauce if desired.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING 445
Skewered Beef and Grilled Rib Eye Steak
Makes 10 servings
Scallions
Makes 10 servings MARINADE

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL olive oil

MARINADE
V 2 o z/1 4 g ground black pepper
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL soy sauce
13 garlic cloves, crushed
2 f I o z/6 0 mL sesame oil
1 bunch rosemary, roughly chopped
l'/2 o z/4 3 g sugar
BEEF
'/2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic
Ten 10 -o z/2 8 4 -g boneless rib eye steaks
'/ 2 o z/1 4 g minced ginger
1 o z/2 8 g salt
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
V 2 o z /1 4 g ground black pepper
BEEF
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg beef flank steak, cut 1 . Preheat the grill.
1 by 4 b y’/s in /3 by 10 cm by 3 mm
2 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a
6 bunches green onions, cut into
hotel pan. Add the steaks and marinate, covered, in
pieces 3'/2 in /9 cm long
the refrigerator for at least 3 hours.

1 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a 3 . Wipe excess marinade from the steaks. Season with
salt and pepper. Place the steaks presentation side
hotel pan. Add the beef and marinate, covered, in
the refrigerator for 3 hours or overnight. down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill
or broil undisturbed for about 2 minutes.
2 . Soak wooden skewers for 30 minutes. Thread the
( Optional: Give each steak a quarter-turn to achieve
beef on the skewers, alternating with the green
grill marks.)
onions.
4 . Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the de­
3 . Preheat the grill or broiler.
sired doneness, or a minimum internal temperature
4 . Place the skewers presentation side down on the o f i45°F/63°C.
grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil un­
5 . Serve immediately.
disturbed for about 1 minute. ( Optional: Give each
skewer a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
5 . Turn the skewers over and complete cooking to the
desired doneness, or a minimum internal tempera­
ture of i45°F/63°C.
6 . Serve immediately.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Pork and Veal Skewers Dill Sauce
Makes 32 fl 02/960 mL
(Raznjici)
Makes 10 servings 2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Chicken Veloute (page 294)

8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL sour cream

MARINADE
3 tb s p /9 g chopped dill
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL lemon juice
Salt, as needed
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL vegetable oil
Ground black pepper, as needed
4 o z /1 1 3 g s lic e d onion

P /4 o z/5 0 g thinly sliced garlic In a medium sauce pot, warm the veloute to a gentle
2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley simmer, about i 85°F/85°C. Temper the sour cream
and add it to the veloute.
2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless veal top round, Stir in the dill. Return to just below a simmer, about
cut into l ’/2-in /4-c m cubes i8o°F/82°C. Season with salt and pepper. Hold
2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless pork loin, cut warm for service.
into l'/2 -in /4 -c m cubes

1 tb sp /1 0 g salt

l '/2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper

GARNISH

12 o z/3 4 0 g thinly sliced onion

20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Dill Sauce (recipe follows)

1 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a

hotel pan. Add the meats. Marinate, covered, in the
refrigerator for 3 hours or overnight.
2 . Soak wooden skewers for 30 minutes. Thread the
meats onto the skewers. Allow any excess marinade
to drain from the meat before grilling or broiling;
blot if necessary. Season with salt and pepper.
3 . Preheat the grill or broiler.
4 . Place the skewers presentation side down on the
grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil un­
disturbed for 3 to 4 minutes.
5 . Turn the skewers over and complete cooking, 3 to 4
minutes more, or to a minimum internal tempera­
ture of 145°F/63°C. Brush the meat with additional
marinade as it broils or grills.
6 . Serve immediately with the sliced onions and dill
sauce.

B roiled Lamb Kebabs w ith P im iento B u tte r: Replace the

veal and pork w ith an equal to ta l amount o f boneless
lamb leg. Replace the dill sauce w ith Pimiento Butter
(page 300).

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G . A N D RO AS TING 447
 Grilled Smoked Iowa
Pork Chops
Makes 10 servings
10 loin pork chops (about 8 o z/2 2 7 g each)
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
l ’/ 2 tsp/B g ground black pepper
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
20 fI o z/6 0 0 mL Apple Cider Sauce (recipe follows)
10 servings Caramelized Apples (recipe follows)
2 lb 13 o z/1 .2 8 kg Braised Red Cabbage (page 7 1 1)
1 . Heat 6 charcoal briquettes on a rack over the direct
flame of a burner until red hot.
2 . Place the pork on a wire rack on a sheet pan in a cold
oven.
3 . Carefully transfer the coals to a half hotel pan. Sprin­
kle them with wood chips to create smoke.
4 . Place the pan of smoking wood chips indirectly
under the pork. Close the oven door and smoke the
pork for at least 10 but no more than 15 minutes. Do
not oversmoke.
5 . Remove the pork and refrigerate, covered, until
needed. Pour water over the coals to extinguish
them. Dispose of them when cold.
6 . Preheat the grill. Season the pork with salt and pep­
per and lightly brush with oil. Place the pork chops
presentation side down on the grill rods. Grill un­
disturbed for about 2 minutes. (Optional: Give each
chop a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
7 . Turn the pork chops over and complete cooking to
an internal temperature of 145°F/63°C.
8 . Heat the apple cider sauce, caramelized apples, and
braised red cabbage. Serve each chop with 4V2 oz/128
g cabbage, 2 fl oz/6o mL sauce, and about 6 apple
wedges.
Apple Cider Sauce
Makes 32 fl 0Z/960 mL
8 o z/2 2 7 g lean pork trim, cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes
l t s p /3 g s a lt
V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
448 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil
4 o z/1 1 3 g medium-dice Standard
Mirepoix (page 243)
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL apple cider
2 tb sp /3 0 mL applejack brandy
2 q t/1 .9 2 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
3 thyme sprigs
5 black peppercorns, crushed
1 bay leaf
Slurry (see page 247), as needed
1 . Season the pork with the salt and pepper. Heat the
oil in a large sauce pot over medium-high heat. Add
the pork and cook until evenly browned on all sides.
Remove the meat from the pan and reserve.
2 . Add the mirepoix to the pan and cook until caramel­
ized.
3 . Deglaze with the cider and applejack. Reduce by half.
4 . Return the pork to the pot. Add the stock, thyme, pep­
percorns, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer (between
i8o°F and i85°F/82°C and 85°C) and cook until
reduced by half, skimming as necessary, 25 to 30 min­
utes.
5 . Thicken with a slurry, if necessary. Strain and hold
hot for service.
Caramelized Apples
Makes 10 servings
8 seasonal apples
Juice of 2 lemons
7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar
Salt, as needed
1 . Peel and core the apples. Cut each apple into 8
wedges. Sprinkle half of the lemon juice over the
apples to prevent oxidation.
2 . Combine the sugar with the remaining lemon juice
in a large saute pan and mix well. Caramelize the
sugar over high heat.
3 . Carefully add the apple slices and coat with the cara­
melized sugar. Season lightly with a pinch of salt.
Reserve warm.
 Grilled or Broiled Pork Sherry Vinegar Sauce
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
Chops with Sherry
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL sherry vinegar
Vinegar Sauce 3 o z/8 5 g dark brown sugar
Makes 10 servings 26 fl o z/7 8 0 mL Jus de Veau Lie (page
2 9 3) or Demi-Glace (page 293)
10 bone-in pork chops (about 12
o z/3 4 0 g each, 2 in /5 cm thick) Salt, as needed

lt b s p /lO g s a lt Ground black pepper, as needed

V / 2 tsp/B g ground black pepper 4 o z /1 1 3 g butter, diced

2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil

1 . Prepare a gastrique as follows: Cook the vinegar and
20 f I o z /6 0 0 mL Sherry Vinegar
Sauce (recipe follows) sugar in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat
until the mixture comes to a boil and the sugar is
completely dissolved, 4 to 6 minutes.
1 . Preheat the grill or broiler.
2 . Remove the saucepan from the heat and add the jus
2 . Season the pork with salt and pepper and lightly
lie to the gastrique. Stir to combine and return to a
brush with oil. Place the pork chops presentation
simmer over medium heat. Reduce the sauce to a
side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods.
nappe consistency, about 15 minutes.
Grill or broil undisturbed for 8 to 10 minutes. (Op­
tional: Give each chop a quarter-turn to achieve grill 3 . Season with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce and
marks.) finish with whole butter (monte au beurre). The
sauce is ready to serve now or may be rapidly cooled
3 . Turn the pork chops over and complete cooking to a
and refrigerated for later use.
minimum internal temperature of i45°F/63°C.
4 . Remove the pork chops from the grill or broiler and
allow them to rest for about 5 minutes.
5 . Heat the sherry vinegar sauce. Top each pork chop
with 2 fl oz/6o mL sauce and serve at once.

450 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Grilled Lamb Chops the fibrous choke from the center of the artichoke.
Halve each of the halves and store in the lemon
with Rosemary, water to prevent browning.

4 . Heat 3 fl oz/90 mL of the extra-virgin olive oil, or

Artichokes, and more as needed, in large saute pan over medium-
high heat. (Use more oil than a saute, but less than
Cipollini Onions a pan fry.) Thoroughly drain the artichokes. Brown
Makes 10 servings lightly, without overcrowding the pan. (Work in
batches if necessary.) When lightly golden, season
MARINADE with salt and pepper, remove from the pan, and
6 black peppercorns drain on paper towels. Reserve.

1 bay leaf 5 . Bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook the
onions until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Shock in cold
2 o z/5 7 g parsley leaves
water, peel, and cut in half lengthwise. Heat 2 fl
V 2 o z/1 4 g thyme leaves oz/6o mL of the extra-virgin olive oil in a large sau­
’/ 2 o z/1 4 g rosemary leaves te pan over medium heat. Saute the onions until

1 o z/2 8 g garlic cloves

24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL olive oil
20 lamb rib chops (about 4 oz/1 IB g each), frenched
ARTICHOKES AND ONIONS
Juice of 3 lemons
30 baby artichokes
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
V / 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
30 cipollini onions
2 o z/5 7 g sliced garlic
3 tb sp /9 g chopped parsley
2 tb sp /6 g chopped oregano
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
6 o z/1 7 0 g butter, diced
1 . Combine the peppercorns, bay leaf, parsley, thyme,
rosemary, and garlic in a blender. Add 2 fl oz/6o
mL of the olive oil and blend until smooth. Gradu­
ally blend in the remaining oil.
2 . Pour the marinade over the lamb chops in a hotel
pan and refrigerate, covered, for a minimum of 45
minutes to overnight.
3 . Combine 1 gal/3.84 L water with the lemon juice.
Peel the stems and remove the tough outer leaves
of the artichokes, and split them in half length­
wise. With a spoon or parisienne scoop, remove
lightly caramelized, about 5 minutes. Remove from
the pan, cool, and reserve.
6 . Cook the garlic slices in the remaining 2 tbsp/30
mL olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat
until the edges begin to brown. Add the onions, ar­
tichokes, parsley, and oregano, and adjust season­
ing with salt and pepper. Add the stock and reduce
the liquid by three-quarters. Stir in the butter and
cook until the vegetables are glazed. Reserve warm
while grilling the lamb.
7 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Drain excess marinade
from the lamb chops; blot dry if necessary. Season
with salt and pepper. Wrap the bones with alumi­
num foil, if desired.
8 . Place the chops presentation side down on the grill
rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undis­
turbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each
chop a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
9 . Turn the chops over and complete cooking to the
desired doneness, or a minimum internal tempera­
ture of 145°F/63°C.
1 0 . Serve the ragout of vegetables in the middle of the
plate with 2 chops on top.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTIN G 451
 grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Indian Grilled Lamb Turn the skewers over and complete cooking to the
desired doneness, or a minimum internal tempera­
with Fresh Mango ture of i45°F/65°C.
Serve 3 or 4 skewers per person with 2 fl oz/6o mL
of the chutney.
M akes 1 0 servings

6 lb /2.72 kg boneless lamb leg, broken down Fresh Mango Chutney

into subprimal cuts (see page 384) M akes 32 fl o z/g6o mL

M A R IN A D E
2 lb /9 0 7 g small-dice mangos
1 ts p /2 g ground green cardamom
2 fl o z/6 0 mL lime juice
1 ts p /2 g ground cumin
4 ts p /4 g roughly chopped cilantro
V 2 tsp /1 g ground nutmeg
2 ts p /6 g minced ginger
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion
1 ts p /3 g minced jalapeno (optional)
3/ t o z/21 g minced garlic
Salt, as needed
3A oz/21 g minced ginger
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper

4 f 1o z/1 2 0 mL plain yogurt Combine all the ingredients, including the minced
jalapeno, if using. Let the chutney rest in the refrig­
20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Fresh Mango erator for up to 2 hours to allow the flavors to marry.
Chutney (recipe follows)
Adjust seasoning before serving, if necessary, with
additional lime juice, salt, or pepper.
1 . Trim the lamb and separate it into individual mus­
cles. Remove all interior fat and gristle. Cut the meat
into long, thin strips, 1 by 4 by Vs in/3 by 10 cm by 3
mm.
2.. To make the marinade, toast the cardamom and
cumin lightly in a dry saute pan. Add the nutmeg,
onions, garlic, ginger, and pepper and toast until
fragrant. Let cool. Add to the yogurt.
3 . Pour the marinade over the lamb in a hotel pan and
turn to coat evenly. Marinate the lamb, covered, in
the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.
4 . Preheat the grill. Thread the lamb onto metal skew­
ers and allow the excess marinade to drain away.
5 . Place the lamb presentation side down on the grill
rods. Grill undisturbed for about 1 minute. (Optional:
Give each skewer a quarter-turn to achieve grill
marks.)

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TIN G 453
 Pakistani-Style Lamb Grilled or Broiled
Patties Chicken Breasts with
Makes 10 servings
Sun-Dried Tomato and
2 o z/5 7 g minced onion

2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil
Oregano Butter
1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic
Makes 10 servings

2 o z/5 7 g fresh white bread crumbs Ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g boneless, skin-on chicken breasts
2 fl o z/6 0 mL water, or as needed lt b s p /lO g s a lt
3 lb /1.36 kg ground lamb V/ 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
3 o z/8 5 g toasted pine nuts 3 tb sp /4 5 mL vegetable oil
2 eggs, beaten Butter, as needed
1 o z/2 8 g ta h in i 10 o z /2 8 4 g Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano Butter
(page 300), piped or sliced into ten l-o z /2 8 -g
3 tb sp /9 g chopped parsley
servings
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt

V / 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper 1 . Preheat the grill or broiler.

1 ts p /2 g ground coriander 2 . Pound the chicken breasts to even the thickness.
2 tb sp /1 2 g ground cumin Season with salt and pepper and lightly brush
with oil.
1 ts p /2 g ground fennel seed
3 . Place the chicken presentation (skin) side down on
2 tb s p /1 8 g grated ginger
the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil
undisturbed for about 2 minutes. (Optional: Give
1 . Cook the onions in the oil in a small saute pan over
each breast a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
medium heat until translucent, about 5 minutes.
Add the garlic and saute 1 minute. Remove from the
4 . Turn the chicken over and complete cooking until
heat and let cool. the chicken is cooked through (minimum internal
temperature of i65°F/74°C), 6 to 8 minutes.
2.. Soak the bread crumbs in water. Squeeze out any ex­
cess moisture. Combine with the onions and garlic. 5 . Top each chicken breast with a serving of the sun-
dried tomato and oregano butter. Place under a
3 . Combine the bread crumb mixture with the lamb,
broiler or salamander until the butter begins to melt.
pine nuts, eggs, tahini, parsley, salt, pepper, spices,
Serve at once.
and ginger. Mix gently but thoroughly. Shape the
mixture into ten patties and chill.
4 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Place the patties on the
grill or broiler rods. Grill or broil undisturbed for
about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each patty a quar­
ter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
5 . Turn the patties over and complete cooking to the
desired doneness, or to a minimum internal tem­
perature of 145°F/63°C.
6 . Serve immediately.

454 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Grilled or Broiled Grilled Pai I lards of
Chicken Breasts with Chicken with Tarragon
Fennel Butter
Makes 10 servings Makes 10 servings

6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL olive oil 10 boneless, skinless chicken breasts

(5 to 6 o z/1 4 2 to 170 g each)
3 garlic cloves, crushed

3A ts p /2 g cracked fennel seeds MARINADE

3/t ts p /2 .5 g s a lt 2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil

V i tsp /1 g ground black pepper 2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice

10 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (5 to 6 o z/1 42 2 ts p /2 g chopped tarragon

to 170 g each), pounded to an even thickness 1 ts p /3 g s a lt

FENNEL V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper

2 o z/5 7 g butter
10 o z /2 8 4 g Tarragon Butter (page 300),
1 o z/2 8 g minced shallot
piped or sliced into ten l-o z /2 8 -g servings
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g fennel, cut into julienne

2 tb sp /3 0 mL Pernod 1 . Trim and pound the chicken into paillards (see page
10 fennel pluches (optional) 380).
2 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a
1 . Combine the oil, garlic, fennel seeds, V2 tsp/1.5 g of hotel pan, add the chicken, and marinate, covered,
the salt, and V4 tsp/0.50 g of the pepper in a hotel in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
pan. Add the chicken and marinate, covered, in the 3 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Drain excess marinade
refrigerator for 30 minutes. from the chicken; blot dry if necessary.
2 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Drain excess marinade 4 . Place the chicken presentation side down on the
from the chicken; blot dry if necessary. grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil un­
B. Place the chicken presentation side down on the disturbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each
breast a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.) Turn
grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil un­
disturbed for about 2 minutes. the chicken over. Continue to cook the chicken until
cooked through (minimum internal temperature of
4 . Brush with the marinade and turn the chicken
i65°F/74°C), 3 to 5 minutes.
over. Continue to cook the chicken, brushing with
the marinade periodically, until the chicken is 5 . Top each paillard with a serving of the tarragon but­
cooked through (minimum internal temperature of ter and serve immediately.
i65°F/74°C), 6 to 8 minutes. Reserve warm.
5 . For the fennel, heat the butter in a medium sauce­
pan over medium-high heat. Saute the shallots until
translucent, about 1 minute.
6 . Add the fennel and cover the pan. Cook until the
fennel is tender, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan
from the heat and add the Pernod. Ignite the Pernod
and cook until the flame burns itself out. Adjust sea­
soning with salt and pepper.
7 . Serve on a bed of fennel and garnish with fennel
pluches.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING 455
 grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Brazilian Mixed Grill Hot Pepper Sauce (Molho
Makes 10 servings
Apimentado)
Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL
MARINADE

2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice onion

V2 o z/1 4 g minced malaguetas or habaneros 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice peeled plum tomatoes

1 tsp /1 g chopped thyme 3/ t o z/2 1 g chopped parsley

1 ts p /3 g minced garlic V 4 ts p /2 .2 5 g minced garlic

2 '/2 ts p /8 .5 g s a lt 3 f I o z/9 0 mL red wine vinegar

I V 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper 3 fl o z/9 0 mL vegetable oil

MIXED GRILL Malagueta oil or hot pepper sauce, as needed

5 whole chicken legs (about 8 Salt, as needed

o z/2 2 7 g each), separated
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless pork loin

2 lb /9 0 7 g flank steak Combine the onions, tomatoes, parsley, and garlic in

20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Hot Pepper Sauce (recipe follows) a small bowl. Mix in the vinegar and oil and season
with the pepper oil or sauce, salt, and pepper.

1 . To make the marinade, combine the oil, peppers, Cover and chill at least 1 hour prior to service. Adjust
thyme, garlic, V2 tsp/1.5 g of the salt, and V2 tsp/i g seasoning with salt, pepper, and pepper oil or sauce,
of the pepper in a hotel pan. Marinate the chicken, if necessary.
covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.
2.. Preheat the grill.
3 . Season the pork with 1 tsp/3 g ° f the salt and V2 tsp/i
g of the pepper. Season the steak with the remain­
ing salt and pepper. Drain excess marinade from the
chicken; blot dry if necessary.
4 . Grill the pork until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes per
side. Transfer the pork to a 35o°F/i77°C oven and
cook to an internal temperature of i55°F/68°C, about
10 minutes, depending on thickness. Remove from
the oven and allow to rest for 10 minutes.
5 . Place the steak and chicken presentation side down
on the grill rods. Grill the chicken until cooked
through (internal temperature of i65°F/74°C), 8 to
10 minutes per side. Rotate as necessary to ensure
even browning.
6 . Meanwhile, grill the steaks undisturbed for about 2
minutes. Turn the steaks over and complete cooking
to the desired doneness, or to a minimum internal
temperature of 145°F/63°C.
7 . Slice the pork into Vi-in/i-cm portions. Thinly slice
the beef across the grain. Serve 1 chicken drumstick
or thigh, 2 slices of pork loin, and 2 slices of flank
steak. Serve with hot pepper sauce.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING 457
Barbecued Chicken
Breast with Black
Bean Sauce
Makes 10 servings
MARINADE
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL apple cider
2 tb s p /3 0 mL cider vinegar
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot
1 ts p /3 g minced garlic
1 ts p /2 g cracked black peppercorns
CHICKEN
10 boneless, skin-on chicken breasts (6 o z/1 7 0 g each)
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
IV2ts p /3 g ground black pepper
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL Barbecue Sauce (page 475)
20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Black Bean Sauce
(recipe follows), warm
1. Com
binealltheingredientsforthemarinadeina
hotelpan.Addthechickenandturntocoatitevenly.
Marinatethechicken,covered,intherefrigerator
for1to2hours.
2 . Preheatthegrillorbroiler. Drainexcessmarinade
fromthechicken;blotdryifnecessary.Seasonwith
saltandpepper.
3. Placethechickenpresentationsidedow nonthe
grillrodsoruponthebroilerrods.Grillorbroilun­
disturbedforabout2minutes. (Optional:Giveeach
breastaquarter-turntoachievegrillmarks.)
4 . Brushw iththebarbecuesauceandturnthechicken
over.Continuetocookthechicken,brushingperi­
odicallywithalightcoatofbarbecuesauce,untilthe
chickeniscookedthrough(internaltemperatureof
i65°F/74°C), 6to8minutes.
5. Servethechickenonheatedplateswiththeblack
beansauce.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Black Bean Sauce
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
9 Y2 o z /269 g dried black beans, soaked overnight
50 fl o z/1.50 L Chicken Stock (page 263 )
V 2 o z/1 4 g diced bacon
1 tb s p /1 5 mL vegetable oil
4 o z/1 1 3 g diced onion
2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
'A ts p /0.25 g chopped oregano
V 2 tsp /1 g ground cumin
V 2 ts p /1 .5 g chopped jalapeno
1 dried chile
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
V i o z/1 4 g chopped sun-dried tomato
1 tb s p /1 5 mL lemon juice, or as needed
1 ts p /5 mL sherry vinegar
1. Simmerthebeansinthestockinamediumsauce­
panovermediumheatuntiltender,about1hour.
Drainthebeansandreserveabout8floz/240mLof
thecookingliquid.
2 . Inasecondm ediumsaucepan,renderthebacon
overmediumheatuntilitreleasesitsfatandbe­
comescrisp,about5minutes.Addtheoil,onions,
garlic,oregano,cumin,jalapenos,anddriedchile.
Sauteovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,until
theonionsarelimpandtranslucent, 6to8minutes.
3.A ddthecookedbeanstothesauteedvegetablesand
heatallingredientsthoroughly.Seasonwithsaltand
pepperandcookfor10to15minutesmore.
4 . Pureeone-thirdofthebeans.A ddthetomatoesand
pureeuntilsmooth.Adjustthepureeconsistency
withreservedcookingliquid,asneeded.Addthe
pureebacktothebeans.Adjusttheconsistencywith
thereservedcookingliquid,asneeded.Seasonwith
lemonjuiceandvinegar.
5.Adjustseasoningwithsaltandpepper.Thesauce
isreadytoservenow,ormayberapidlycooledand
refrigeratedforlateruse.

Jerked Game Hens
Makes 10 servings
JERK SEASONING
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL vegetable oil
4 o z/1 1 3 g roughly chopped onion
2 'A o z/71 g roughly chopped green onion
2 fl o z/6 0 mL dark rum
2 f I o z/6 0 mL soy sauce
1 tb sp /6 g ground allspice
1 tb sp /6 g ground cinnamon
4 ts p /4 g th y m e
I V 2 ts p /5 g salt
V h ts p /3 g ground nutmeg
1 ts p /2 g ground cloves
1 or 2 Scotch bonnets, stems and seeds
removed, roughly chopped
10 game hens, butterflied
1 o z /2 8 g coarse salt
1 . Combine all the jerk seasoning ingredients in a
blender. Puree to a smooth, thick paste.
2 . Wearing gloves, rub the jerk seasoning onto both
sides of the game hens. Marinate, covered, in the
refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.
3 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Season each hen with
Vz tsp/2.50 g coarse salt. Place the hens presenta­
tion (skin) side down on the grill rods or up on the
broiler rods. Grill or broil for 12 minutes. Turn the
hens over, and cook to an internal temperature of
i65°F/74°C, about 12 minutes more.
4 . Serve immediately.
ch a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Fillet of Mahi Mahi
with Pineapple-
Ji'cama Salsa
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 12 o z/1 .7 0 kg mahi mahi fillet, cut
into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g servings
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
l '/ 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
2 V 2 f I o z/7 5 mL lime juice
2 V 2 f I o z/7 5 mL vegetable oil
20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Pineapple-Ji'cama
Salsa (recipe follows)
1 . Preheat the grill or broiler.
2.. Season the fillets with salt, pepper, and lime juice.
Brush the fillets lightly with the oil.
3 . Place the fish presentation side down on the grill
rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undis­
turbed for about 2 minutes.
4 . Turn the fish over and complete cooking until the
flesh is opaque and firm, 3 to 5 minutes.
5 . Serve immediately with pineapple-jicama salsa.
Pineapple-Jfcama Salsa
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
1 tb s p /1 5 mL vegetable oil
3 tb s p /4 5 mL lime juice
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 tb sp /3 g roughly chopped cilantro
6 o z/1 7 0 g ji'cama, cut into fine julienne
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice pineapple
4 V a o z/1 2 0 g minced red onion
4'/2 o z/1 2 8 g small-dice red pepper
V 2 o z /1 4 g minced jalapeno
Mix together the oil, lime juice, salt, pepper, and ci­
lantro. Add the remaining ingredients and toss to coat.
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. The salsa is
ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
459
 grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Broiled S tu ffe d Broiled Bluefish a
Lobster i'Angiaise with MaTtre
Makes 10 servings
d'Hotel Butter
Ten 1 lb 8 -o z /6 8 0 -g lobsters
Makes 10 servings
B'/z o z / 9 9 g butter
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg skinless bluefish fillet,
10 o z/2 8 4 g minced onion cut into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g servings
5 o z/1 4 2 g minced celery 1 tb s p /1 0 g salt
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced red pepper r /2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced green pepper 2 'A f 1o z/7 5 mL lemon juice
lt b s p /lO g s a lt 4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, melted
r /2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper 1 o z/2 8 g fresh bread crumbs
l ' A o z/3 5 g bread crumbs 10 o z /2 8 4 g MaTtre d'Hotel Butter (page 300),
3 tb s p /4 5 mL dry sherry piped or sliced into ten l-o z /2 8 -g servings

2 o z/5 7 g butter, melted

1 . Preheat the broiler.

1 . Preheat the broiler. 2 . Season the fillets with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.
Brush the fillets lightly with the butter. Dip in the
2 . Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the
bread crumbs, and gently press down on the surface.
lobsters and parboil for 7 minutes. Allow the lobsters
to cool slightly. 3 . Place the fillets on a broiler rack. Broil until barely
cooked through (flesh should be opaque and firm), 3
3 . Detach the claws from the bodies. Remove the meat
to 4 minutes.
from the claws and dice. Reserve. Split the lobster
bodies. Remove the coral and tomalley and reserve 4 . Top each fillet with a serving of the maitre d’hotel
to add to the stuffing, if desired. butter. Place under a broiler or salamander until the
butter begins to melt. Serve at once.
4 . Melt the butter in a saute pan over medium-high
heat. Add the onions, celery, and peppers and cook
until the onions are translucent, 5 to 6 minutes. Sea­
son with salt and pepper and remove from the heat.
Add the reserved coral and tomalley, if using, the
diced claw meat, bread crumbs, and sherry. Adjust
seasoning with salt and pepper, if needed.
5 . Spoon the stuffing into the body cavity of each lob­
ster. Do not place stuffing over the tail meat. Season
the tail meat with salt and pepper and brush lightly
with melted butter.
6 . Place the lobsters on a broiler rack, shell side down,
and broil until the stuffing begins to crisp and turn
golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Serve at once.

C hapter 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTING 461

 Fish Kebabs Mint and Yogurt Chutney
Makes 10 servings Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL

5'/2 o z/1 5 6 g cilantro stems and leaves

MARINADE
5V2 o z / 1 5 6 g mint leaves
10 fl oz/BOO mL sour cream
2 ts p /4 g cumin seeds
4 o z/1 1 3 g cashew nut paste
16 Thai bird chiles
B o z/8 5 g chickpea flour

V 2 o z/1 4 g finely chopped Thai chiles 6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL lemon juice

1 o z /2 8 g sugar
3 tb sp /4 5 mL lemon juice

4'/2 ts p /9 g freshly ground white pepper Salt, as needed

20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL plain yogurt, drained overnight

lt b s p /9 g garlic paste

1 tb sp /6 g ground fennel seed

1 . Combine the cilantro, mint, cumin, and chiles in a
2 ts p /4 g ajwain, crushed
blender and puree until smooth. If necessary, add 2
1 ts p /3 g ground ginger tbsp/30 mL of the lemon juice when blending. The
Salt, as needed mixture should not be watery; drain if necessary.
2 . Combine the herb puree with the remaining lemon
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg black cod fillet, juice, the sugar, salt, and yogurt. Adjust seasoning,
cut into 3-in/8-cm cubes
if necessary. (The chutney should be minty, spicy,
Salt, as needed sweet, and salty.)
Lemon juice, as needed 3 . The chutney is ready to serve now, or may be refrig­
2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter, melted erated for later use.

20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Mint and Yogurt

Chutney (recipe follows)

1 . Preheat the broiler.

2 . . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a
hotel pan. Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, and
additional chiles, if necessary.
3 . Season the fish with salt and lemon juice. Let it
stand for 15 minutes.
4 . Blot with paper towels to remove the excess mois­
ture. Add the fish to the marinade. Marinate, cov­
ered, in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour and up to
overnight.
5 . Place the fish on a rack over a sheet pan and baste
with the butter. Make sure there is sufficient mari­
nade on each piece.
6 . Cook the fish under a broiler on high until the top
of the fish is dark brown with spots of black, 12 to 15
minutes.
7 . Serve immediately with the mint and yogurt chutney.

462 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Beef Wellington Madeira Sauce
Makes 10 servings Makes 32 f l oz/g6o mL

4 to 5 lb/1.81 to 2.27 kg beef tenderloin 40 fl o z/1.20 L Jus de Veau Lie (page

2 9 3) or Demi-Glace (page 293)
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL Madeira
V / 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
Salt, as needed
2 f I o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
Ground black pepper, as needed
8 o z/2 2 7 g foie gras pate
4 o z /1 1 3 g butter, medium dice
2 o z/5 7 g finely chopped tru ffle peelings

1 sheet Puff Pastry Dough (page 1076)

1 . Bring the jus lie to a simmer over medium heat and
3 f I o z/9 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023) reduce by half.
20 fI o z /6 0 0 mL Madeira Sauce (recipe follows) 2 . Add the Madeira and simmer until the sauce has a
good flavor and consistency, 2 to 3 minutes more.
1 . Season the tenderloin with salt and pepper. Heat the Season with salt and pepper.
butter in a large saute pan over high heat. Sear the 3 . Whisk in the butter over low heat just before serving.
tenderloin on all sides. Remove from the pan and let
cool.
M arsala Sauce: Replace the Madeira w ith Marsala.
2 . Spread the surface of the tenderloin with the pate
and sprinkle with the truffles.
3 . Roll the dough out to 3/16 in/5 mm thick. Place the
tenderloin in the center of the dough. Wrap the
dough around the tenderloin. Fold the ends under
and roll over so the seam is on the bottom. Brush
with egg wash.
4 . Place the beef, seam side down, on an oiled sheet
pan in a 400°F/204°C oven. Bake until the puff
pastry is lightly browned, and the meat reaches a
minimum internal temperature of 145°F/63°C, about
20 minutes. (Use a convection oven if possible.)
Remove from the oven and let rest 15 minutes.
5 . Cut into %-in/2-cm slices. Serve immediately with
the Madeira sauce on the side.

ch a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING 463
Standing Rib Roast
au Jus
Makes 25 servings
14 lb /6.35 kg bone-in beef rib roast (see Note)
V A o z/3 5 g salt
1 tb sp /6 g ground black pepper
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g rough-cut Standard
Mirepoix (page 243)
2 q t/1 .9 2 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
1 . Season the beef with salt and pepper.
2 . Place the beef on a rack in a roasting pan and roast
in a 350°F/i77°C oven until it reaches an internal
temperature of 125°F/52°C.
3 . Add the mirepoix about 30 minutes before the roast
is done and let it brown.
4 . Remove the roast from the pan and allow it to rest
for 30 minutes.
5 . While the roast is resting, place the roasting pan
on the stovetop. Cook until the mirepoix is well
browned, the fat is clear, about 5 minutes, and the
pan drippings have reduced. Degrease as needed.
Deglaze the roasting pan with the stock. Adjust sea­
soning with salt and pepper. Strain and reserve in a
bain-marie. Hold hot for service.
6 . Slice the beef and serve immediately with the jus.
NOTE: A standard rib roast can range from 14 lb/6.35 kg to
as much as 22 lb/9.97 kg.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H
Veal Shoulder Poele
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless veal shoulder
r /2 ts p /5 g salt
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
]A ts p /0 .2 5 g finely chopped rosemary
V 2 ts p /0 .5 0 g basil chiffonade
'/2 ts p /0.50 g finely chopped thyme
V 2 ts p /0.50 g finely chopped marjoram
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter, plus more as needed
2 o z/5 7 g diced slab bacon or smoked ham
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
1 o z/2 8 g tomato paste (o p tio n a l)
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL white wine
2 bay leaves
1 ts p /3 g cornstarch, diluted in water
or stock to make a slurry
1 . Butterfly the veal. Season it with salt and pepper.
2 . Mix together the rosemary, basil, thyme, marjoram,
and garlic. Spread this mixture evenly over the in­
side of the veal. Roll and tie the veal roast.
3 . To make the matignon, melt the butter in a lidded
sauteuse over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook
for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the mirepoix. Cook until a
light golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the to­
mato paste, if desired, and cook briefly.
4 . Place the veal on top of the matignon and baste with
some additional butter.
5 . Cover the pan and place in a 300°F/i49°C oven, bast­
ing every 20 minutes, for about 1 hour. Remove the
lid for the last 30 minutes to allow the veal to brown.
6 . Check for doneness: the meat should be tender
when pierced with a fork. Remove the veal from the
pan and keep warm.
7 . Add the stock, wine, and bay leaves to the pan and
simmer for 20 minutes. Degrease if necessary.
8 . Thicken with the slurry and reduce, if necessary.
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
9 . Slice the veal into portions and serve with the sauce.

Pork Roast with Jus Lie
Makes 1 0 servings
4 lb 8 o z /2 .0 4 kg bone-in pork loin roast
V 2 o z /1 4 g minced garlic
1 ts p /1 g minced rosem ary
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
V/ 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
JUS LIE
8 o z /2 2 7 g m edium -dice
S tandard M irepo ix (page 2 4 3 )
2 tb s p /3 0 mL to m ato paste
4 fl o z /1 2 0 mL dry w hite wine
1 q t /9 6 0 mL Brown Veal S to ck (page 2 6 3 )
2 thym e sprigs
1 bay leaf
2 t b s p /3 0 mL a rro w ro o t slurry, or as needed
1 . Trim the pork loin and tie. Rub the roast with the
garlic, rosemary, salt, and pepper. Place the pork loin
on a rack in a roasting pan of appropriate size.
2 . Roast at 375°F/igi°C for 1 hour, basting from time to
time. Scatter the mirepoix around the pork and con­
tinue to roast until an instant-read thermometer in­
serted in the center of the meat registers 145°F/63°C,
30 to 45 minutes more.
3 . Remove the pork from the roasting pan and allow it
to rest for 20 minutes before carving.
4 . To prepare the jus lie, place the roasting pan on the
stovetop and cook until the mirepoix is browned and
the fat is clear, about 5 minutes. Pour off all the fat.
Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring frequently,
until it has a sweet aroma and brick-red color, 30 to
45 seconds. Add the wine and deglaze the pan. Re­
duce the wine slightly to cook off the alcohol flavor.
5 . Add the stock, stirring to release the fond completely.
Add the thyme and bay leaf, and simmer the jus for
20 to 30 minutes, or until it reaches the proper con­
sistency and flavor. Add slurry to thicken the sauce
enough to coat the back of a spoon. Degrease and
adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
6 . Strain the jus lie through a fine-mesh sieve and keep
it hot for service. Carve the pork loin into portions
and serve immediately with the jus lie.
c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Baked S tu ffe d Pork
Chops
Makes 1 0 servings
10 ce n te r-c u t pork chops (8 to 1 0 o z /2 2 7
to 2 8 4 g, I V 2 in /4 cm thick)
STUFFING
2 fl o z /6 0 mL vegetable oil
4 o z /1 1 3 g minced onion
3 o z /8 5 g minced celery
2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g dried bread crumbs
1 tb s p /3 g chopped parsley
1 ts p /1 g rubbed sage
2 t s p /6 . 5 g s a l t
1 t s p /2 g ground black pepper
6 fl o z /1 8 0 mL Chicken S to ck (page 2 6 3 ), or as needed
2 4 fl o z /7 2 0 mL D em i-G lace (page 2 9 3 )
1 . Cut a pocket in each chop and refrigerate until the
stuffing is prepared and properly cooled.
2 . Heat 2 tbsp/30 mL of the oil in a saute pan over medium
heat. Add the onions and cook until golden brown, 8 to
10 minutes. Add the celery and garlic and cook until the
celery is limp, 8 to 10 minutes more. Spread out on a
sheet pan and allow to cool completely.
3 . Combine the onion mixture with the bread crumbs,
parsley, and sage. Season with the salt and pepper. Add
enough of the stock to make a stuffing that is moist but
not wet. Chill the stuffing until it reaches 40°F/4°C.
4 . Divide the stuffing into 10 equal portions and place 1
portion into the cavity of each pork chop. Secure the
chops closed with skewers.
5 . Season the chops with salt and pepper. Heat the re­
maining 2 tbsp/30 mL oil in a large saute pan over
high heat. Sear the pork chops until golden brown on
both sides. Transfer to a sheet pan and finish cooking
in a 350°F/i77°C oven to an internal temperature of
145°F/63°C.
(5 . Meanwhile, pour off any excess oil from the saute pan.
Add the demi-glace and bring to a simmer. Degrease the
sauce if necessary. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
7 . Serve the stuffed pork chops with the sauce.
465
Cantonese Roast Pork 5 . To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients.
Pour the marinade over the pork in a hotel pan and
( Cha r Si u) massage it into the meat. Cover and refrigerate for 8
hours or overnight, turning the meat occasionally.
Makes 10 servings
6 . Remove the pork from the marinade and wipe off
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless pork butt the excess (reserve excess marinade for glazing).

BRINE
Place the pork on a wire rack in a roasting pan.

1 g al/3.84 L water
7 . Fill a hotel pan with water, place it in the bottom of
the oven, and set the oven to 325°F/i63°C.
4 o z /1 1 3 g s a lt
8 . Place the pork in the oven and roast, glazing ev­
4 o z/1 1 3 g brown sugar
ery 30 minutes with the reserved marinade, until
Peel of 1 orange it reaches an internal temperature of 145°F/63°C,
1 cinnamon stick about 1V2 hours.

1 tb sp /6 g black peppercorns
1 tb sp /6 g Szechwan peppercorns
3 star anise pods
9 . Remove the pork from the oven and allow it to rest
for 5 minutes before slicing. Serve garnished with
green onions or chop and use to fill pork buns.

V i o z/1 4 g ginger, crushed

10 dried Chinese chiles

1 bunch green onions, bruised

MARINADE

3 f I o z/9 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)

or Brown Pork Stock (page 264)

2 fl o z/6 0 mL Chinese rice wine (Shaoxing)

I V 2 o z/4 3 g brown sugar

2 tb s p /3 0 mL mushroom soy sauce

4 ts p /2 0 mL hoisin sauce

1 tbsp brown bean paste

2 ts p /6 g minced garlic

1 ts p /5 mL sesame oil

1 ts p /3 g Chinese Five-Spice Powder (page 368)

5 o z /1 4 2 g sliced green onions

1 . Cut the pork into rectangles 3 by 8 by 3 in/8 by 20 by

8 cm. Refrigerate until the brine is ready.
2 . Bring the water for the brine to a boil and add the re­
maining brine ingredients. Stir to dissolve the sugar
and salt. Cool the brine to room temperature.
3 . Place the pork in the cooled brine, cover, and refrig­
erate for 8 hours or overnight.
4 . Remove the pork from the brine, pat dry, and discard
the brine.

M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
 grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Guava-Glazed Pork Guava Barbecue Sauce
Makes 32 fl oz/960 ml
Ribs
Makes 10 servings
12 o z/3 4 0 g guava marmalade
MARINADE
2 o z/5 7 g tomato paste
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL water
1 o z/2 8 g molasses
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL red wine vinegar
1 o z/2 8 g dry mustard
8 o z/2 2 7 g chopped onion
1 tb sp /6 g ground cumin
2 o z/5 7 g roughly chopped cilantro
3/ t o z/2 1 g minced garlic
2 o z/5 7 g chopped oregano
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL dry sherry
'/ 2 o z/1 4 g ground cumin
1 Scotch bonnet, minced
2 ts p /4 g ground black pepper
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL water
10 garlic cloves
Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

13 lb /5.90 kg pork baby back ribs
24 fl o z /7 2 0 mL Guava Barbecue
Sauce (recipe follows)
1 . To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients
in a blender and puree.
2 .. Place the ribs in a large, nonreactive container and
coat with the marinade. Marinate, covered, in the
refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.
4 f l o z/1 2 0 mL lime juice
1 . In a medium saucepan, combine the marmalade, to­
mato paste, molasses mustard, cumin, garlic, sherry,
Scotch bonnet, and water. Season with salt and
pepper.
2 . Simmer the sauce for 30 minutes. Remove from the
heat and set aside to cool.

3 . Transfer the ribs and marinade to a rondeau or kettle 3 . Add the lime juice when the sauce has cooled. The
and simmer for 30 minutes. Drain off the liquid and sauce is ready to use now, or may be refrigerated for
allow the ribs to cool. later use.

4 . Place the ribs on roasting racks on sheet pans. Roast

the ribs for 20 to 25 minutes in a 350°F/i77°C oven.
Brush the barbecue sauce on both sides of the ribs
and roast for 8 to 10 minutes more. Brush the ribs
with sauce again, turn so the meaty side is up, and
roast the ribs for 8 to 10 minutes more, until they are
well glazed.
5 . Serve immediately.

ch a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTIN G 467
 grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Carolina Barbecue North Carolina Western
Makes 10 servings Barbecue Sauce
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
12 lb /5.44 kg pork butt

1 o z /2 8 g s a lt r /2 o z/4 3 g brown sugar

V i o z/1 4 g ground black pepper 4’/ 2 t s p /9 g paprika
10 sandwich buns, split and toasted 472 ts p /9 g Chili Powder (page 368 or purchased)
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL North Carolina 4'/z ts p /9 g dry mustard
Piedmont Sauce (recipe follows)
1 ts p /3 g s a lt
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL North Carolina Western
Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows) 3/ t ts p /1 .50 g cayenne

10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Mustard Barbecue 2 tb s p /3 0 mL Worcestershire sauce

Sauce (recipe follows)
6 fl o z/2 4 0 mL white vinegar

24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL ketchup
1 . Season the pork butt with the salt and pepper. Roast
2 flo z /6 0 m L w a te r
in a 300°F/i49°C oven until tender, about 5 hours.
2 . Remove the pork from the oven and allow it to cool
Combine all the ingredients and mix well. Adjust sea­
slightly. When cool enough to handle, shred or chop
soning with salt and cayenne, if necessary. The sauce is
the pork.
ready to use now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
3 . For each portion, serve about 6 oz/170 g of the pork
on a toasted bun with the sauces on the side.
Mustard Barbecue Sauce
North Carolina Piedmont (North Carolina Eastern Low
Sauce Country Sauce)
Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL

15 f I o z/4 5 0 mL white vinegar 2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil

15 f I o z/4 5 0 mL cider vinegar 1 lb /4 5 4 g chopped onion

3'/> ts p /7 g red pepper flakes I V 2 o z/4 3 g minced garlic

3 tb sp /4 5 mLTabasco sauce 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL white vinegar

l 3/ t o z /50 g sugar 11 f I o z/3 3 0 mL spicy brown mustard

4 ts p /8 g cracked black peppercorns 2 ts p /4 g celery seed

3’/2 o z/9 9 g sugar

Combine all the ingredients and mix well. The Salt, as needed
sauce is ready to use now, or may be refrigerated for
Ground black pepper, as needed
later use.

1 . Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the

onions and saute until translucent, about 4 minutes.
Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about 1 minute.
2 . Add the remaining ingredients and bring the mixture
to a simmer to melt the sugar. Remove the pan from
the heat and allow the flavors to blend, about 30 min­
utes. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
3 . The sauce is ready to use now, or may be refrigerated
for later use.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING 469
 Pork Butt with l ’/ 2 o z/4 3 g sugar

l '/ 2 ts p /3 g celery seed

Coleslaw 1 tb s p /1 5 mL hot sauce
Makes 10 servings
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt

2 3/t o z /7 8 g s a lt 1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper

2'A o z/6 4 g coarsely ground black pepper 1 lb 14 o z/8 51 g shredded green cabbage

13A o z/5 0 g adobo spice 7 '/* o z/2 0 6 g shredded carrots

13 lb 10 o z/6.18 kg bone-in pork butt

l ’/ 2 q t/1 .4 4 L Barbecue Sauce (page 475) 1 . Combine the salt, pepper, and adobo spice in a
small bowl to create a dry rub.
MAYONNAISE
2 . Locate and remove the gland on the pork butt lo­
3 tb s p /4 5 mL pasteurized egg yolks cated opposite the blade bone.
1 tb s p /1 5 mL water 3 . Rub the spice mixture over the pork butt. Mari­
1 tb sp /1 5 mL white wine vinegar nate, covered, in the refrigerator overnight or up to

'A o z/7 g Dijon mustard

24 hours.

’/4 ts p /1 .2 5 g sugar
4 . Allow the meat to rest at room temperature for at
least 1 hour before smoking.
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL vegetable oil
5 . Preheat the smoker to i95°F/9i°C.
1 tb s p /1 5 mL lemon juice
6 . Place the pork butts in the smoker fat side up, leav­
1 ts p /3 g salt
ing no more than 1 in/3 cm between the butts.
2 pinches ground white pepper
7 . Smoke the pork until very tender, with an internal
COLESLAW temperature of 170°F/77°C, 10 to 12 hours. Final
smoking time will depend on the size of the butts.
6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL sour cream
Remove the pork from the smoker and remove the
2 f I o z/6 0 mL cider vinegar
bone. Allow the pork to rest for 45 minutes.
3 '/2 ts p /7 g dry mustard
9 . Use your fingers or two forks to pull apart the
meat. Warm the barbecue sauce. Combine the
meat with just enough sauce to coat. Hold the
meat and sauce warm, separately, for service.
To make the mayonnaise, combine the yolks, wa­
ter, vinegar, mustard, and sugar in a medium bowl.
Whisk until slightly foamy.
Gradually add the oil in a thin stream, constantly
beating with the whisk until the oil is incorporated
and the mayonnaise is smooth and thick. Season
with the salt, pepper, and lemon juice.
To make the coleslaw, combine the prepared
mayonnaise, sour cream, vinegar, mustard, sugar,
celery seed, and hot sauce in a large bowl and mix
until smooth. Season with the salt and pepper.
Add the cabbage and carrots and toss until evenly
coated.
When the b u tt is smoked The smoked meat should be
properly, the bone w ill slide tender enough to easily pull Serve 10V2 oz/297 g of the finished sauced pork
out easily. apart w ith your fingers. with 4 oz/113 g ° f the prepared coleslaw and some
of the barbecue sauce.

470 M EAT S, P O U L T R Y FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 Smoked Brisket with 1 . Remove excess fat from the cap, leaving only V2 to %
in/i to 2 cm on the surface of the meat. Do not re­
Sweet Rickies move the deckle.

Makes 10 servings 2. Combine the salt, chili powder, paprika, pepper, gar­
lic powder, and onion powder in a small bowl. Rub
20 lb /9.07 kg beef brisket, cap on the spice mixture evenly over the brisket. Rest the
2 3/ t o z/7 8 g salt brisket overnight in the refrigerator, covered.

2 o z/5 7 g dark chili powder 3 . Let the brisket sit out at room temperature for 1 hour
l 3/ i o z/5 0 g paprika
prior to smoking.

V A o z/3 5 g coarsely ground black pepper

4 . Preheat smoker to i95°F/9i°C (see Note).

3A o z/21 g garlic powder

5 . Place the brisket into the smoker fat side up, leaving
about 1 in/3 cm between pieces of meat. Smoke the
3/ * o z/21 g onion powder
meat until very tender, 10 to 12 hours (about 1 hour per
SWEET PICKLES pound).
2 lb /9 0 7 g cucumbers (Kirby) 6 . To make the sweet pickles, wash the cucumbers and
8 o z/2 2 7 g onions slice them about lA in/6 mm thick. Slice the onions %
in/6 mm thick.
12 f 1o z/3 60 mL cider vinegar

V A ts p /5 g salt
7 . Combine the cucumbers, onions, cider vinegar, salt,
mustard seeds, 1 tbsp/15 g of the sugar, and the water
'/> ts p /2 g mustard seeds
in a large nonreactive sauce pot. Simmer for 10 min­
14 o z /3 9 7 g sugar utes. Drain and transfer to a storage container.
1 q t/9 6 0 m L water 8 . Bring the white vinegar, celery seed, allspice, turmeric,
10 fl o z/3 0 0 g white vinegar and the remaining sugar to a boil in a medium pot.

1 tb s p /1 4 g celery seed 9 . Pour the vinegar mixture over the cucumbers and
onions. Cover and refrigerate for 3 to 4 days before
V/2 ts p /5 g allspice, crushed
serving. The pickles can now be stored, refrigerated,
1 ts p /2 g ground turmeric
for up to 1 week.
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Chef Clark's Southwest-
1 0 . Serve the brisket with the sweet pickles and some of
Style Sauce (recipe follows)
the Southwest-style sauce.

NOTE: Keep the smoker tem perature around 195°F/91°C. At

this tem perature the fa t on the surface w ill melt, rather
than boil, as it can do at higher temperatures.

Chef Clark's Southwest-Style

Sauce
Makes 20 fl oz/6oo mL

2 o z/5 7 g butter

4 3/ * o z/1 3 5 g diced onion

'/ 2 0 z /1 4 g garlic

1 o z/2 8 g minced Thai chiles

1 o z/2 8 g Chili Powder (page 36 8 or purchased)

It is vita l to apply the Ideally the finished brisket 4 o z /1 13 g strong brewed coffee
spice rub evenly. should have a smoke ring o f V a to
V 2 in/6 to 13 mm. 4Y4 o z/1 2 8 g Worcestershire sauce

472 M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H

 grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL ketchup J . Stir in the chili powder and continue to cook until
2 fl o z/6 0 mL cider vinegar the flavor of the chili powder is developed, 2 to 3
minutes more.
l 3/4 o z/5 0 g brown sugar
4 . Stir in the coffee, Worcestershire sauce, ketchup,
V 2 o z /1 4 g cornstarch
vinegar, and sugar. Simmer until good flavor devel­
2 fl o z/6 0 mL water ops, about 45 minutes.
5 . Whisk the cornstarch with the water in a small bowl
1 . Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. until it is smooth.
Add the onions and sweat until translucent, 4 to 5
6 . Stir the slurry into the sauce to adjust the thickness.
minutes.
Bring the sauce back to a boil before cooling.
2 . Add the garlic and chiles and cook until the mixture is
7 . The sauce is now ready to use or can be stored, re­
aromatic, 2 to 3 minutes more.
frigerated, for up to 1 week.

473
 grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
St. Louis-Style Ribs Barbecue Sauce
Makes 10 servings Makes lVi qt/1.44 L

2 tb s p /2 0 g s a lt 1 q t/9 6 0 mL ketchup

4 ts p /8 g dried thyme 9 o z/2 5 5 g white wine vinegar

1 tb sp /6 g coarsely ground black pepper 4 o z /1 1 3 g water

3 tb s p /1 8 g celery seed 3 3/ t o z/1 0 6 g dark brown sugar

4 tb s p /2 4 g paprika 2 '/2 f I o z/7 5 mL Worcestershire sauce

3 tb sp /31 g onion powder 3/ t o z/21 g paprika

27 lb /1 2 .2 5 kg St. Louis-style spare ribs V * o z/21 g Chili Powder (page 368 or purchased)

r /2 q t/1 .4 4 L Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows) 3/ t o z/21 g dry mustard

2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg Coleslaw (page 470) 2 tsp /6.5 g salt

l ’/ 2 t s p /3 g cayenne
1 . Combine the salt, thyme, pepper, celery seed, pa­
prika, and onion powder in a medium bowl. Rub Combine all of the ingredients in a blender and pro­
the mixture evenly over the spare ribs. Rest the ribs, cess until smooth. Use immediately or refrigerate.
covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight. The sauce can be stored for up to 3 weeks.
2 . Preheat the smoker to i95°F/9i°C (see Note).
3 . Smoke the ribs until the meat pulls away from the
rib tips by 3/s to Vi in/9 t0 13 mm>about 4V2 hours.
The meat should easily remove from the bone and
the bone should appear dry within 10 to 15 seconds.
4 . Remove the ribs from the smoker. Brush both sides
with some of the barbecue sauce. Place the ribs pre­
sentation side down on the rods of a hot grill. Grill
undisturbed until the sauce begins to caramelize.
Turn the ribs over and grill until the sauce on the
second side begins to caramelize.
5 . Portion the ribs and serve with the barbecue sauce
and coleslaw.
NOTE: Many types o f wood can be used; the traditional
choices are hickory, cherry, or mesquite.

Cut the finished ribs into

individual portions.

ch a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D R O AS TIN G 475
Lacquer-Roasted Pork
Ribs (Kao Paigu/
Makes 10 servings
3 tb sp /4 5 mL dark soy sauce
3 tb s p /4 5 m L sherry
5 pork spare rib racks, trimmed
MARINADE
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL hoisin sauce
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Chinese black bean sauce
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL ketchup
1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic
2 ts p /6 g minced ginger
1 ts p /2 g ground white pepper
’/ 2 o z/1 4 g thinly sliced green onions
2 f I o z/6 0 mL Chinese rice wine (Shaoxing)
2 tb sp /3 0 mL sesame oil
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
3Vz o z/9 9 g sugar
LACQUER COATING
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL honey
1 tb s p /1 5 mL sesame oil
1 . Combine the soy sauce and sherry and brush on the
ribs.
2 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade. Pour
over the ribs in a deep hotel pan and massage it into
the meat. Cover and refrigerate for 8 hours or over­
night, turning occasionally.
3 . Remove the ribs from the marinade and wipe off the
excess. Place the ribs on a wire rack in a roasting pan.
4 . Fill a hotel pan with water, place it in the bottom of
the oven, and set the oven to 325°F/i63°C.
5 . Place the ribs in the oven and roast until they reach
an internal temperature of 150°F/66°C, about 1V2
hours.
6 . To make the lacquer coating, combine the honey and
sesame oil. During the last 20 minutes of roasting,
brush the ribs with the mixture.
7 . Remove the ribs from the oven and allow them to
rest for 10 minutes. Cut the racks in half, or into in­
dividual ribs, before serving.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Roast Leg of Lamb
Boulangere
Makes 10 servings
9 lb /4.08 kg bone-in lamb leg (see Note)
I V 4 o z/3 5 g salt
1 tb sp /6 gground black pepper
1 o z/2 8 g slivered garlic
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg russet potatoes,
sliced Ve in /3 mm thick
8 o z/2 2 7 g thinly sliced onion
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL Brown Lamb Stock (page 264)
or Brown Veal Stock (page 263), or as needed
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Jus de Veau Lie (page
2 9 3) or Demi-Glace (page 293)
1 . Season the lamb with some of the salt and pepper
and stud it with the slivered garlic.
2 . Place the lamb on a rack in a roasting pan. Roast at
400°F/204°C for 1 hour, basting from time to time.
Remove the lamb from the pan and pour off the fat.
3 . Layer the potatoes and onions in the roasting pan,
seasoning the layers with the remaining salt and
pepper. Add enough stock to moisten well.
4 . Place the lamb on the potatoes. Continue to roast
until the desired doneness, or to a minimum inter­
nal temperature of 145°F/63°C. The potatoes should
be tender.
5 . Remove the roasting pan from the oven and allow
the lamb to rest before carving.
6 . Heat the jus de veau lie over medium heat while the
lamb rests.
7 . Carve the lamb into slices. For each portion, place 3
oz/85 g potatoes and onions on a heated plate. Top
with 6 oz/170 g roasted lamb and ladle 2 fl oz/6o mL
sauce over the lamb. Serve at once.
NOTE: A leg o f lamb w ill range from 9 to 12 lb/4.08 to 5.44
kg and can yield 10 to 15 servings.
 grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Roast Rack o f kamb Persillade
Makes 12 oz/340 g
Persille
Makes 8 servings 5 o z/1 4 2 g fresh bread crumbs

2 ts p /6 g garlic paste
Two 2 -lb /9 0 7 -g frenched racks of lamb
V A o z/3 5 g chopped parsley
2 tb sp /3 0 mL vegetable oil
3V2 o z/9 9 g butter, melted
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
2 ts p /6 .5 g s a lt
V A ts p /3 g ground black pepper

1 tsp /1 g chopped rosemary

Mix all the ingredients together to make an evenly
1 tsp /1 g chopped thyme moistened mixture. Place in a tightly sealed con­
10 o z/2 8 4 g diced Standard Mirepoix (page 243) tainer and refrigerate or use as needed.

V A q t/1 .2 0 L Brown Lamb Stock (page

264) or Brown Veal Stock (page 263)

12 o z/3 4 0 g Persillade (recipe follows)

1 . Lightly brush the lamb with oil, season with salt and
pepper, and rub with the chopped rosemary and
thyme. Place the lamb on a rack in a roasting pan.
2 . Roast at 400°F/204°C for 15 minutes, basting pe­
riodically with rendered juices and fat. Scatter
the mirepoix around the lamb, reduce the heat to
325°F/i63°C, and continue to roast to the desired
internal doneness. Transfer the lamb to a sheet pan
and keep warm.
3 . To make the jus, place the roasting pan on the
stovetop and cook until the mirepoix is browned
and the fat is clear. Pour off all the fat. Deglaze with
the stock, stirring to release the fond completely.
Simmer until it reaches the desired consistency and
flavor, 20 to 30 minutes. Degrease and adjust season­
ing with salt and pepper. Strain through a fine-mesh
sieve and keep warm.
4 . Spread half of the persillade on top of each rack of
lamb. Return the lamb to the oven until the persil­
lade is lightly browned.
5 . Cut the lamb into chops and serve with the sauce.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , BR O IL IN G , A N D R O AS TIN G 477
Roasted Shoulder o f 5 . Cover the lamb and continue to cook until the meat
is extremely tender, 2 to 3 hours. Check the water-
Lamb and Couscous and-oil level every 30 minutes and add water if it
appears too low.
( M e c h o u i ) 6 . Remove the meat and keep it warm. Place the roast­
Makes 10 servings ing pan on the stovetop.
7 . Degrease the liquid in the pan. Gradually add the
1 lb /4 5 4 g butter, soft
slurry, whisking constantly. Adjust seasoning with
2 o z/5 7 g garlic, mashed to a paste with a pinch of salt salt and pepper.
3/ t o z/2 1 g chopped parsley 8 . Combine all the ingredients for the condiment mix.
3/ t o z/21 g roughly chopped cilantro 9 . Thinly slice the lamb and serve immediately with
1 tb sp /6 g dried thyme the couscous and condiment mix.
1 tb sp /6 g ground cumin

1 tb sp /6 g paprika

10 lb /4.54 kg lamb shoulder, square cut,

excess fa t and silverskin removed

1 o z /2 8 g salt

1 tb sp /6 g ground black pepper

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL water, or as needed

1 tb sp /9 g cornstarch, mixed with 1

tb s p /1 5 mL water to make a slurry

CONDIMENT

1 tb s p /1 0 g coarse salt

1 tb sp /6 g ground cumin

1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper

3 lb /1 .3 6 kg Couscous (page 826), hot

1 . Mix the butter with the garlic, parsley, cilantro,

thyme, cumin, and paprika.
2 . Season the lamb with about l tsp/3 g of the salt and
Vi tsp/0.50 g of the pepper. Coat the lamb with the
seasoned butter.
3 . Place the lamb on a rack in a roasting pan. Add
enough of the oil and water to cover the bottom of
the pan but not touch the lamb. (The amount need­
ed will depend on the size of pan used.)
4 . Roast uncovered in a 350°F/i77°C oven, basting ev­
ery 15 minutes, until a deep caramel color develops,
about 45 minutes.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

Roast Leg of Lamb beans are tender but not mushy, about 30 minutes
more. Remove the bay leaves and parsley sprigs and
with Haricots Blancs adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed. Set
aside to keep warm.
( G i g o t a lo B r e t o n n e ) 4 . While the beans are cooking, heat the butter in a
Makes 10 servings heavy-bottomed saute pan and add the remaining
onions and chopped garlic. Saute over low heat, stir­
HARICOTS BLANCS ring, until golden, 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in the toma­
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dried haricots blancs
toes and thyme. Cook over medium heat, stirring
from time to time, for 15 minutes. Adjust seasoning
2 tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil
with salt and pepper, and add to the beans.
12 o z/3 4 0 g chopped onion
5 . Make some incisions into the leg and slip in the sliv­
3/ t o z/21 g chopped garlic ers of garlic. Rub with the oil and season with salt
2 bay leaves and pepper.

2 parsley sprigs 6 . Sear the lamb on all sides in a roasting pan on the
stovetop.
1 tb sp /10 g salt

ts p /3 g ground black pepper

7 . Place in a 400°F/204°C oven. After 15 minutes, add
r /2
the boiling water to the roasting pan. Roast, basting
1 o z/2 8 g butter
the lamb with the pan juices from time to time, until
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g peeled, seeded, and an instant-read thermometer registers a minimum of
medium-diced tomatoes
145°F/63°C, about 1 hour. Remove the lamb from the
V 2 ts p /0.50 g thyme leaves roasting pan and let it rest in a warm spot.

LAMB 8 . Degrease the roasting pan. Deglaze with the white

wine and reduce by half. Stir the pan juices into the
9 lb /4.08 kg bone-in lamb leg (see Note)
beans. If necessary, bring the beans back up to serv­
V t. o z/1 4 g slivered garlic
ing temperature.
ltb s p /1 5 m L olive oil
9 . Slice the lamb and serve it on a bed of the beans.
1 tb s p /1 0 g salt
NOTE: A leg o f lamb w ill range from 9 to 12 lb/4.08 to 5.44
r /2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
kg and can yield 10 to 15 servings.
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL boiling water

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL dry white wine

1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak
the beans using the long or short soak method (see
page 753). Drain the soaked beans.
2 . Cover the beans with water in a large soup pot and
bring to a boil. Skim off all the scum that rises to the
top, remove from the heat and drain. In the same
pot, heat the oil and add 4 oz/113 g of the onions and
2 tsp/6 g of the chopped garlic. Cook over low heat
until the onions begin to soften. Return the beans to
the pot and add enough cold water to cover by 2 in/5
cm. Bring to a boil, add the bay leaves and parsley
sprigs, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes.
3 . Add the salt and an additional 2 tsp/6 g of the
chopped garlic. Cover and continue to cook until the

M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Roast Leg o f Lamb Salt Herbs
Makes 2 oz/57 g
with Mint Sauce
Makes 10 servings V A o z/3 5 g salt

4 ts p /4 g rosemary leaves
6 lb /2.72 kg boneless lamb leg
4 ts p /4 g thyme leaves
3/ t oz/21 g Salt Herbs (recipe follows)
1 ts p /2 g black peppercorns
'/ 2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic
6 bay leaves
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed

4 o z /l l B g medium-dice Standard Combine all the ingredients in a clean spice grinder

Mirepoix (page 243)
and grind to a medium-fine powder. Put in an air­
M IN T SAUCE tight container and let rest for 12 hours before using.
24 fI o z/7 2 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293)

2 o z/5 7 g mint stems or sprigs

1 tb s p /lO g s a lt

V/ 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper

1 o z/2 8 g mint chiffonade

1 . Rub the lamb on all sides with the salt herbs and gar­
lic. Marinate, covered, in the refrigerator overnight.
2 . Roll and tie the roast. Rub it with oil and place it on
a rack in a roasting pan.
3 . Roast at 350°F/i77°C for 45 minutes, basting from
time to time.
4 . Scatter the mirepoix around the lamb and continue
to roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted
in the center of the meat registers a minimum of
145°F/63°C, 30 to 40 minutes longer. Remove the
lamb from the roasting pan and allow it to rest.
5 . To make the mint sauce, place the roasting pan on
the stovetop and cook until the mirepoix is browned
and the fat is clear. Pour off all the fat. Add the demi-
glace, stirring to release the fond completely. Add
the mint stems and simmer until the sauce reaches
the proper consistency and flavor, 20 to 30 minutes.
Degrease and season with salt and pepper. Strain
through a fine-mesh sieve. Finish with mint
chiffonade.
6 . Carve the lamb into portions and serve it with the
mint sauce.

ch a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING 481
Roast Chicken with Chicken Legs with
Pan Gravy Duxelles S tu ffin g
Makes 10 servings Makes 10 servings

5 chickens (2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg each), Ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g chicken leg quarters

wing tips removed and reserved
DUXELLES STUFFING
2 o z/5 7 g salt
6 o z/1 7 0 g minced shallot
4 ts p /8 g ground white pepper
2 o z/5 7 g butter
5 thyme sprigs
2 lb /9 0 7 g small-dice mushrooms
5 rosemary sprigs
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
5 bay leaves
2 ts p /4 g ground black pepper
5 f 1o z/1 5 0 mL clarified butter, soft, or vegetable oil
8 f 1o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream that
12 o z/3 4 0 g large-dice Standard or has been reduced by half
White Mirepoix (page 243)
8 o z/2 2 7 g fresh bread crumbs
2 o z/5 7 g all-purpose flour
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley
V/ 4 q t/1 .2 0 L Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3), hot

2 o z/5 7 g butter, melted

1 . Season the cavity of each chicken with salt and pep­
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Supreme Sauce (page 294)
per. Place l sprig each of thyme and rosemary and l
bay leaf inside each cavity.
1 . Bone out the chicken legs. Lay the meat between
2 . Rub the skin of the chickens with butter and truss sheets of parchment paper or plastic wrap. Pound
each chicken with twine.
the legs flat with a mallet. Refrigerate until needed.
3 . Place chickens, breast side up, on a rack in a roasting
2 . To make the duxelles stuffing, sweat the shallots in
pan in a 450°F/232°C oven. Scatter the wing tips in
the butter in a sautoir over medium-high heat until
the pan. Once the chickens have developed a golden
translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and
brown appearance, turn down the temperature to
saute them until dry to create a duxelles. Season the
3 5 0 °F /i7 7 °C .
duxelles with some of the salt and pepper.
4 . Roast for 45 minutes, basting from time to time.
3 . Add the cream, bread crumbs, and parsley and mix
Scatter the mirepoix around the chickens and con­
well. If desired, the duxelles can be chilled now and
tinue to roast until the thigh meat registers an inter­
reserved for later use.
nal temperature of i65°F/74°C.
4 . Season the chicken legs with the remaining salt and
5 . Remove the chickens from the roasting pan and al­
pepper. Portion 3 oz/85 g of the duxelles onto each
low them to rest. Hold warm.
chicken leg. Fold the meat over the stuffing and
6 . Place the roasting pan on the stovetop and cook un­ place the stuffed legs on a rack in a roasting pan with
til the mirepoix is browned and the fat is clear. Pour the seam side down.
off all but 3 tbsp/45 mL of the fat.
5 . Brush the chicken legs with the melted butter.
7 . Add the flour and cook the roux for 2 minutes, Roast in a 375°F/i9i°C oven, basting occasionally,
Whisk in the stock until completely smooth. until a thermometer inserted in the center of the
8 . Simmer the gravy at about i 8 o°F/82°C until it legs reaches a temperature of i65°F/74°C, 25 to 30
reaches the proper consistency and flavor, 20 to 30 minutes. The chicken legs should be a light golden
minutes. Degrease and adjust seasoning with salt brown.
and pepper. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. 6 . Serve each chicken leg on a heated plate with 2 fl
9 . Cut the chickens in half and serve them immediately oz/6o mL of the sauce.
with the pan gravy.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H


Pan-Smoked Chicken
Makes 10 servings
Ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g boneless, skinless chicken breasts
’/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper
MARINADE
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL apple cider
2 f I o z/6 0 mL cider vinegar
V i o z/1 4 g minced shallot
2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
1 . Rinse the chicken, pat dry, season with salt and pep­
per, and place in a shallow hotel pan.
2 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade and
pour over the chicken, turning to coat evenly. Mari­
nate, covered, in the refrigerator for 3 hours or up to
overnight.
3 . Place the chicken on a rack over lightly dampened
hardwood chips in a roasting pan. Cover tightly and
heat in a 450°F/232°C oven until the smell of smoke
is apparent, 6 to 8 minutes. Smoke for 3 minutes
from that point. Transfer the chicken to a baking pan
and finish roasting (without smoke) in a 350°F/i77°C
oven until cooked through (i65°F/74°C), 10 to 12
minutes more.
4 . Serve immediately or cool and refrigerate until
needed.
c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Breast o f Rock
Cornish Game Hen
with Mushroom
Forcemeat
Makes 10 servings
Ten 1 lb 4 -o z /5 6 7 -g Rock Cornish game hens
2 lb 12 o z/1.25 kg Mushroom
Forcemeat (recipe follows)
1 tb s p /1 0 g salt
l '/ 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
2 tb s p /3 0 mL clarified butter, melted
2 0 f I o z /6 0 0 mL Madeira Sauce (page 463)
1 . Remove the breasts from the hens and make them
into supremes. Refrigerate until needed. Remove the
leg and thigh meat and prepare the mushroom force­
meat.
2 . Loosen the skin from the breast meat. Season the
breasts on all sides with salt and pepper. Pipe about
2 oz/57 g ° f the forcemeat between the skin and
meat of each breast. Smooth the surface to spread
the forcemeat evenly.
3 . Place the stuffed breasts in a baking dish. Brush
lightly with butter. Roast in a preheated 35o°F/i77°C
oven to an internal temperature of i65°F/74°C, 20 to
25 minutes. Baste with additional butter or any pan
juices during baking time.
4 . Heat the Madeira sauce and serve 2 fl oz/6o mL with
each breast (2 supremes).
NOTE: Optional plating: slice each breast on a slight diagonal
into 4 slices and fan the slices out on a warm plate.
483
 Mushroom Forcemeat
Makes 2 lb 12 oz/1.25 kg
12 o z/3 4 0 g Rock Cornish game hens leg
and thigh meat, small dice (see Note)
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
T/2 oz/ 7 1 g minced bacon
1 o z /2 8 g butter
1 o z/2 8 g minced shallot
1 garlic clove, minced
10 o z/2 8 4 g minced white mushrooms
10 o z/2 8 4 g minced morels
1 thyme sprig
1 bay leaf
4 sage leaves
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Madeira
le g g
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL heavy cream
1 . Season the meat with salt and pepper and refrigerate
until needed.
2 . Place the bacon and butter in a saute pan over me­
dium heat. Render the bacon until crisp. Add the
shallots and garlic and saute until aromatic. Add all
the mushrooms and sweat until barely tender. Add
the thyme, bay leaf, sage, and Madeira. Reduce until
almost dry. Remove and discard the bay leaf, thyme,
and sage. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
Chill the mixture to below 40°F/4°C.
3 . Process the diced meat and egg to a paste in a food
processor, scraping down the bowl periodically. Add
the cream and pulse the machine on and off until
the cream is just incorporated. Transfer to a bowl.
Fold in the cooled mushroom mixture. Hold chilled
until ready to use.
NOTE: This forcem eat can be prepared using any lean diced
poultry meat to replace the leg and thigh meat from the
game hens.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
Roast Duckling with
Sauce Bigarade
Makes 10 servings
Five 5 lb 8 -o z/2 .5 0 -k g ducklings
'/2 o z /1 4 g s a lt
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
25 parsley stems
5 thyme sprigs
5 bay leaves
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
SAUCE BIGARADE
3A o z/2 1g su g a r
ltb s p /1 5 m L water
2 tb sp /3 0 mL white wine
2 tb sp /3 0 mL cider vinegar
3 fl o z/9 0 mL blood orange juice
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293)
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
5 blood oranges
1 . Rinse and trim the ducklings, removing the fat from
the body cavity (reserve for another use, if desired).
Place the ducklings, breast side up, on a rack in a
roasting pan. Season them with salt and pepper.
Place 5 parsley stems, 1 thyme sprig, and 1 bay leaf
into the cavity of each bird.
2 . Roast the ducklings at 425°F/2i8°C until the
juices run barely pink and the thigh meat registers
i65°F/74°C, about 1 hour. Remove the ducklings
from the pan and rest for at least 10 minutes before
carving.
3 . Degrease and deglaze the pan with the stock. Strain
and reserve the drippings.
4 . While the duck is roasting, make the sauce. Combine
the sugar and water in a saucepan. Cook over me­
dium heat until the sugar melts and caramelizes to a
deep golden brown, about 1 minute.
 grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
5 . Add the wine, vinegar, and blood orange juice. Mix with Pan
well and simmer over medium-high heat until re­
duced by half, about 1 minute. Stir to dissolve any Gravy and Chestnut
lumps.

6 . Add the demi-glace and stock and bring the sauce to S tu ffin g
a boil. Add the reserved pan drippings. Reduce the Makes 10 servings
heat and simmer over medium heat until a good fla­
vor and consistency develops, about 15 minutes. Sea­ 13 lb /5.90 kg whole turkey

son with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce through lt b s p /lO g s a lt
cheesecloth and reserve warm.
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
7 . Remove the zest from the blood oranges, cut it into 2 onions, peeled and quartered
julienne, and blanch. Cut the flesh of the oranges
12 to 15 parsley stems
into supremes.
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL clarified butter, soft, or vegetable oil
8 . Carve the duck for service by cutting away the breast
from the rib and cutting the leg away from the body. 12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix
(page 243)
Place the duck pieces on a sizzler platter, overlap­
ping the leg and breast portions, skin side facing up. 2 o z/5 7 g all-purpose flour
Brush the duckling with a small amount of the sauce 40 fl o z/1 .2 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263), hot
and reheat in a 45O°F/2320C oven until it is crisp,
2 lb 12 o z/1 .2 5 kg Chestnut Stuffing (page 486)
about 5 minutes.
9 . Pool 2 fl oz/6o mL of the sauce on each plate and
1 . Season the cavity of the turkey with salt and pepper.
place the duckling on the sauce. Garnish with the
Place the quartered onions and parsley stems inside
blanched orange zest and orange segments.
the cavity.
2 . Rub the skin of the turkey with the butter and truss
with twine.
3 . Place the turkey, breast side up, on a rack in a roast­
ing pan.
4 . Roast at 350°F/i77°C for 3 hours, basting from time
to time.
5 . Scatter the mirepoix around the turkey and continue
to roast until the thigh meat registers an internal
temperature of i65°F/74°C, 30 to 40 minutes longer.
Remove the turkey from the roasting pan and allow
it to rest.
6 . Place the roasting pan on the stovetop and cook un­
til the mirepoix is browned and the fat is clear. Pour
off all but 2 tbsp/30 mL of the fat.
7 . Add the flour and cook the roux for 4 to 5 minutes,
until golden. Whisk in the stock until completely
smooth.
8 . Simmer the gravy until it reaches the proper consis­
tency and flavor, 20 to 30 minutes. Degrease and ad­
just seasoning with salt and pepper. Strain through
a fine-mesh sieve. Carve the turkey in portions and
serve it with the pan gravy and chestnut stuffing.

c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING 485
Chestnut Stuffing
Makes 2 lb 12 oz/1.25 kg
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion
4 o z/1 1 3 g bacon fat or butter
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g cubed day-old bread
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263), hot
!e g g
2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley
1 tsp /1 g chopped sage
8 o z/2 2 7 g shelled, peeled, roasted
chestnuts, chopped
1 ts p /3 g salt
V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
Saute the onions in the bacon fat until tender.
Combine the bread, stock, and egg and add to the
onion. Add the parsley, sage, chestnuts, salt, and
pepper. Mix well.
Place the stuffing in a buttered hotel pan and cover
with parchment paper. Bake at 350°F/i77°C for 45
minutes.
Serve immediately.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Salmon Fillet with
Smoked Salmon and
Florseradish Crust
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg salmon fillet, cut
into ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g portions
2 fl o z/6 0 mL lime juice
2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
2 ts p /6 g minced shallot
2 ts p /4 g crushed black peppercorns
CRUMB MIXTURE
I V 2 ts p /4.50 g minced shallot
V ats p /2 .2 5 g minced garlic
3 o z /8 5 g butter
5 o z/1 4 2 g fresh bread crumbs
5 o z/1 4 2 g minced smoked salmon
1 o z/2 8 g prepared horseradish
20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Beurre Blanc (page 298)
1 . Rub the salmon fillets with the lime juice, garlic,
shallots, and peppercorns. Refrigerate while making
the crumb mixture.
2 . To make the crumb mixture, saute the shallots and
garlic in the butter until aromatic, about 1 minute.
3 . Combine the sauteed shallots and garlic, bread
crumbs, smoked salmon, and horseradish in a food
processor and process to a fine consistency.
4 . Portion about 1 oz/28 g of the crumb mixture onto
each fillet.
5 . Bake the salmon in a 350°F/i77°C oven until it is
opaque pink on the outside and just beginning to
flake, 6 to 7 minutes.
6 . Serve the salmon on heated plates with the beurre
blanc.
sauteing,

The cooking techniques presented in this chapter rely on a fat or oil as the
cooking medium. As the amount of fat varies from a thin film to enough
to completely submerge foods, different effects are achieved.
S auteing is a t e c h n i q u e t h a t c o o k s food rapidly in a l i t t l e fat o ver r elatively high heat .

C ertain m e n u items listed a s s e a r e d / pan -s e a r e d ,c h a r r e d / pan -c h a r r e d ,or pan -bro iled are

ess e n t ia lly s a u t e e d . (Th o s e t e r m s h a v e c o m e to s u g g e s t t h a t e v e n l e s s o i l is u s e d t h a n f o r

a traditio nal s a u t e .) S a u t eed dishes t y p ic a lly include a sa u c e m a d e w ith the drippings

(f o n d ) l e f t in t h e p a n ,a n d a r e co o ked in a n a l a m i n u t e o r "j u s t in t i m e " fa sh io n .

sauteing
Searing may be a f ir s t ste p f o r some roasted, braised, or stew ed foo ds; the y are cooked
q u ickly in a sm all a m ount o f o il over d ire c t heat. The d iffe re n c e betw een searing and s a u te ­
ing is n o t how the tech niq ue is pe rfo rm e d , b u t th a t tho se fo o d s are n o t cooked co m p le te ly
as a resu lt. Searing is used w ith tho se cooking m ethods as an e ffe c tiv e way to develop
fla v o r and co lo r in con ju nction w ith longer, slo w er cooking.
S tir-fry in g , associated w ith Asian cooking and succe ssfully adapted by innovative
W estern chefs, shares many s im ila ritie s w ith sauteing. Foods are c u sto m a rily cut in to sm all
pieces— usually s trip s, dice, or shre ds— and cooked rap id ly in a little oil. They are added to
th e pan in sequence; th o se re q u irin g th e lo ng est cooking tim e s are added fir s t, tho se th a t
cook q u ickly only a t the la st m om ent. The sauce fo r a s tir-fry , like th a t o f a saute, is made
or fin is h e d in the pan to cap ture th e dish's e n tire flavo r. Typically, a th in -w a lle d w ok is used
fo r a s tir - fr y w h ile a saute pan is used in th e sauteing m ethod.
Choose cuts fo r sautes o f beef, veal, lamb, pork, and large game animals fro m the rib
or loin, and some p o rtio n s o f the leg. These cuts are the m ost tender. P ou ltry and game bird
breasts are o fte n p re fe rre d fo r sauteing. Firm or m oderately te x tu re d fis h are easier to sau­
te than very delicate fish . S hellfish, in and out o f the shell, also saute well. S elect the cooking
fa t according to the fla v o r you w ant to create, fo o d cost, a va ila bility, and smoke point.
The base f o r a pan sauce fo r a saute may va ry to s u it the fla v o r o f the main item . Brown
sauces such as dem i-glace or ju s lie, veloutes, glace (reduced stocks), veg etab le coulis, or
to m a to sauce may be used. C onsult sp e c ific recipes.
A saute pan (also called a sauteuse) has sho rt, sloped sides and is w id e r than it is ta ll
to encourage rapid evaporation. It is made o f a m e ta l th a t responds qu ickly to rapid heat
changes. W oks are used to prepare s tir frie s . Pan-seared and p a n -b roiled ite m s are o fte n
p repared in heavy-gauge pans th a t re ta in heat, such as ca st-iro n sk ille ts .
Have ton gs o r spatulas available to tu rn fo o d s and rem ove the m fro m the pan, holding
pans to reserve fo o d s w h ile a sauce is prepared or finishe d, and all a p p ro p ria te service
ite m s (heated plates, garnishes, and accom panim ents).

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 basic formula
Sauteing
(1 entree portion)
1 boneless portion (6 to 8 oz/170
to 227 g) meat, poultry, or seafood
(adjust portion size to account
for bones, skin, or shells)
method at-a-glance
Sauteing
Saute the item on both
sides in a hot pan and hot
oil until properly browned.
2. Remove the main item
and finish it in an oven, if
necessary.
3. Deglaze the pan.
4 . Add the liquid fo r the
sauce.
Reduce the sauce.
Add the finishing
ingredients (except butter),
if appropriate.
Adjust seasoning to taste.
Return the main item to
the pan to reheat it, if
necessary.
Monte au beurre, if desired.
Small amount of cooking fat or oil
Salt and pepper, plus other
seasoning as required
Aromatics and/or garnishes,
for the pan sauce
S tir-fry in g
Heat the oil in a wok or
large saute pan.
Add the main item.
S tir-fry , keeping the food
in constant motion.
Add additional
ingredients, including
aromatics, in the proper
sequence (longest-
cooking firs t, shortest-
cooking last).
Add the liquid fo r the
sauce; add the thickener.
6. Serve the food
immediately.
Chapter 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING
2 tbsp/30 mL liquid, for
deglazing the pan
2 fl oz/60 mL prepared sauce
base, as appropriate
Finishing ingredients,
as appropriate
To develop additional
flavor, season the item with
additional ingredients prior to
sauteing:
M A R IN A D E S / SPIC E RUBS / D RIED
SPIC ES
Add additional
i n g r e d i e n t s depending on the
desired result, after sauteing can
further develop the flavor of the item:
W HOLE B U TTE R / SAUCES / GLAZES
For a healthier option: use
healthier fats such as olive oil to cook
the main item.
 1. season the food w ith sa lt and pepper,
as w ell as spice blends or rubs i f a p pro pria te , ju s t b e fore
cooking. Seasoning b e fo re cooking is more e ffe c tiv e than
adding s a lt and pepper a t the end. D usting is op tion al and
should be done ju s t b e fo re adding th e ite m to the pan. Flour
w ill help to absorb excess m oistu re and prevent the item
fro m stic k in g to the pan, and it w ill produce a good surface
color fo r lig h t or w h ite m eats, p o u ltry, and fish. If done, be
sure to coat th e ite m evenly and shake o f f any excess.
S e le ct a pan o f th e a p p ro p ria te size; it should be large
enough so th a t all pieces o f th e main ite m w ill ju s t cover
th e b o tto m o f th e pan w ith o u t overlapping.
H eat th e pan b e fo re adding the fa t; th is is re fe rre d to
as co n d itio n in g th e pan. Add enough f a t to lig h tly film the
pan. The m ore n a tural m a rb lin g o r f a t pre sen t in the foo d,
the less fa t you w ill need in th e pan. W ell-seasoned or
no n stick pans may n o t req uire any fa t beyond th a t which
is already p re se n t in the fo o d . Bring the pan and th e cook­
ing fa t to th e c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re b e fo re adding th e food.
To saute red m eats a n d /o r ve ry th in m eat pieces, heat the
cooking f a t u n til th e surface rip p le s and looks hazy. Less
intense heat is req uire d fo r w h ite m eats, fish , and she llfish

m eth o d in d etail as w ell as th ic k e r cuts.

Im m e d ia te ly add th e fo o d to th e pan. Place the food's
p re s e n ta tio n side down o n to th e heated pan f ir s t fo r
th e b e s t-lo o k in g s auteed foo ds. Cook on th e p re se n ta ­
tio n side u n til brow ned or golden. L e t th e fo o d cook
u n d istu rb e d f o r several seconds up to a m in ute or tw o to
develop th e p ro p e r fla v o r and co lo r in th e fin is h e d saute.
The fo o d may s tic k to th e pan a t f ir s t, b u t it w ill release
its e lf by the tim e it is ready to be turned.
Turn sauteed fo o d s only once to develop good fla v o r
and color. Each tim e th e m eat is turne d, the te m p e ra tu re
o f th e m ea t and pan drops. Sauteed fo o d s are also usually
tu rn e d only once so th a t th e fo n d can develop in th e pan,
although th e re are exceptions. Sauteed shrim p, m ea t cut
in to emince, o r v eg etab le s, f o r exam ple, may be re p e a t­
edly to sse d o rtu rn e d .
A d ju s t th e heat under th e saute pan if necessary to
co m p le te coo kin g on th e s to ve to p . In som e cases, sau­
te e d fo o d may be fin is h e d in th e oven, e ith e r in th e saute
pan or in a baking dish, sizzle r p la tte r, o r sheet pan.
P rop er doneness depends upon th e fo o d its e lf, safe
fo o d handling, and cu sto m e r p re fe ren ce. Be sure to allow
fo r som e ca rryo ve r coo kin g so th a t fo o d s are not ove r­
done by th e tim e you are ready to p u t the m on a plate. For
m ore in fo rm a tio n , review G eneral G uidelines fo r D e te r­
m ining Doneness (see page 366). Remove the fo o d fro m
th e pan and to a holding pan in a w arm area w hile p re p a r­
ing a sauce d ire c tly in th e saute pan.

490 M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H

 sauteing
2. add a liquid such as s to c k or w ine to
release th e brow ned drip p in g s, o r fon d, and to give the
sauce a deep and cu sto m ize d fla vo r. To make a sauce
in c o rp o ra tin g th e fo n d in th e saute pan, f ir s t rem ove any
excess fa t. Add a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts or garnish item s
th a t need to be cooked. Then deglaze th e pan, releasing
th e reduced dripp ing s. W ine, sto ck, o r b ro th are com ­
m only used f o r th is step.

3. reduce wine or stock u n til nearly dry

(au sec). The sauce base (such as a se p a ra te ly pre pa red
sauce, ju s lie, reduced s to ck, o r ve g e ta b le puree o r cou-
lis) should be added to th e pan and b ro u g h t to a simm er.
Cream, if called fo r, should be added along w ith th e sauce
base so th a t it can reduce p ro p e rly along w ith th e base.
Some sauces may need to be th icke n e d b e fo re th e y are
served; i f so, add a sm all am o un t o f a pure starch s lu rry
u n til th e c o rre c t co n siste n cy is reached.

c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYIN G 491

 4. finish and garnish a pan sauce in one
o f several ways. It may be stra in e d th ro u g h a fine -m esh
s tra in e r f o r a ve ry sm oo th te x tu re b e fo re adding any
fin is h in g or ga rnishin g in g re d ie n ts. S im m er fin is h in g and
g a rnishin g in g re d ie n ts in th e sauce long enough fo r them
to be p ro p e rly heated. A d ju s t seasoning w ith sa lt, pepper,
fre s h herbs, ju ices, essences, purees, o r s im ila r item s.
A fte r a fin a l check to be sure th e seasoning is co rre ct,
chefs o fte n o p t to re tu rn th e main ite m (a chicken bre ast
o r veal scallop, f o r exam ple) to th e fin is h e d sauce b rie fly
to co a t and g e n tly re h e a t it. If desired, a sm all am ount o f
w h ole b u tte r may be added ju s t b e fo re serving (m o n te r
au beurre) to add b o th fla v o r and body. The sauce may be
spooned in a pool on th e p la te and th e fo o d se t on top,
o r th e sauce m ay be spooned over th e fo o d (nappe) or
spooned around th e fo o d (cordon). Be sure to w ipe away
any d rip s on th e p la te w ith a clean clo th w ru ng o u t in hot
w a te r b e fo re th e p la te is sen t to th e dinin g room .
The ob je ct o f sauteing is to produce a fla v o rfu l e x te rio r
th ro u g h p ro p e r brow ning, w hich serves to in te n s ify the
fo o d 's fla vo r. W eak fla v o r and co lo r in d ica te th a t th e fo o d
was sauteed a t to o low a te m p e ra tu re or th a t th e pan was
to o crow ded. "Good co lo r" depends on th e ty p e o f fo o d .
When sauteed w ell, red m eats and game should have a
deep brow n e xte rio r. W h ite m eats (veal, pork, and p o u ltry )
should have a golden or am ber e xte rio r. Lean w h ite fis h
should be pale go ld when sauteed as skinless fille ts , w hile
firm fis h steaks, like tuna, should ta ke on a d a rker color.
O nly n a tu ra lly te n d e r fo o d s should be sauteed, and a f­
te r sau tein g th e y should rem ain te n d e r and m oist. Exces­
sive dryness is a sign th a t th e fo o d was overcooked, th a t
it w as cooked to o fa r in advance and held to o long, or th a t
it w as sauteed a t a te m p e ra tu re higher than necessary.

492 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 Pa n -fried fo o ds h ave a richly t e x t u r e d cru st and a moist fl a v o r f u l interio r , producing

a dish of intriguing c o n tr a sts in t e x t u r e and fla v o r . W hen a c a r e f u ll y selec t ed sau ce

i-i
is p a i r e d w i t h the dish , the e ffec t can ran g e fro m h o m e -s t y l e to h a u t e cuisine . Pa n -fried
*< !
F O O D IS A L M O S T A L W A Y S C O A T E D — ' D R E D G E D IN F L O U R , C O A T E D W I T H B A T T E R , O R B R E A D E D . F O O D IS i—><
F R I E D IN E N O U G H O I L TO C O M E H A L F W A Y TO T W O ' T H I R D S U P I TS S I D E , A N D IS O F T E N C O O K E D O V E R 0
L E S S I N T E N S E H E A T T H A N IN S A U T E I N G . QTQ

pan frying
The p ro d u c t is cooked m ore by th e o il’s heat than by d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith the pan. In pan f r y ­
ing, th e h o t oil seals th e foo d's coa ted surface, th e re b y lo cking in th e n a tural ju ice s inside.
Because no ju ice s are released and a la rg e r am ount o f o il is involved, sauces accom panying
p a n -frie d fo o d s are usually made separately.
The o b je c t o f pan fry in g is to produce a fla v o rfu l e x te rio r w ith a crisp, brow n c ru s t th a t
acts as a b a rrie r to re ta in ju ice s and flavo r. The actu al co lo r depends upon th e coating, its
thickn ess, and the foo d.
P a n -fried fo o d is usually p o rtio n -s iz e or sm aller. S elect cuts th a t are n a tu ra lly tender,
as you w ould f o r a saute. Rib or loin cuts, to p round, o r p o u ltry b re a sts are all good choices.
Lean fish , such as sole or flou nd er, are also w e ll su ite d to pan fry in g . Trim away any fa t,
silverskin , and g ris tle . Remove th e skin and bones o f p o u ltry and fis h fille ts if necessary
or desired. You may w a n t to pound c u tle ts f o r an even th ickn e ss and to sho rte n cooking
tim e . This means th a t th e e x te rio r w ill brown w ith o u t ove rcoo king in th e same tim e th a t
th e m eat cooks through.
Ing re dients f o r breading include flo u r, m ilk a n d /o r beaten eggs, and bread crum bs or
cornm eal. For in s tru c tio n s on standard breading, see page 365.
The fa t f o r pan fry in g m ust be able to reach high te m p e ra tu re s w ith o u t breaking down
or sm oking. V egetable oils, olive oil, and sho rte nings may all be used fo r pan fry in g . Lard,
goose fa t, and o th e r rendered anim al fa ts have a place in c e rta in regional and eth n ic dishes.
The choice o f f a t m akes a d iffe re n c e in the fla v o r o f th e fin is h e d dish.
The pan used fo r pan fry in g m ust be large enough to hold fo o d pieces in a single layer
w ith o u t touching. If th e fo o d is crow ded, th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e fa t w ill drop q u ickly and
a good c ru s t w ill n o t fo rm . Pans should be made o f heavy-gauge m e ta l and should be able
to tra n s m it heat evenly. The sides should be higher than tho se a p p ro p ria te f o r sautes, to
avoid splashing h o t o il o u t o f th e pan as fo o d is added to th e o il o r tu rn e d durin g cooking.
Have on hand a pan lined w ith paper to w e ls to b lo t away surface f a t fro m frie d foo ds. Tongs
or s lo tte d spatulas are ty p ic a lly used to tu rn foo ds. S elect shallow, w ide con tain ers to hold
coatings, breading, o r b a tte rs.

c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYIN G 493

 D b a sic fo rm u la

Pan-Fried Items
(1 en tree portion)
1 boneless portion (6 to 8 oz/170
to 227 g) meat, poultry, or seafood
(adjust portion size to account
for bones, skin, or shells)
Enough cooking fat or oil to
cover half to two-thirds of
the item being pan fried
Standard breading, batter,
or other coating
Salt and pepper, plus other
seasonings as required
2 to 3 fl oz/60 to 90 mL
prepared sauce

m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
Heat the cooking medium.

2. Add the main item (usually

breaded or batter-coated)
to the pan in a single layer.
Depending on the desired result, different crusts can be
achieved depending on the type of coating used on the item. These coatings
3. Pan fry the food on the include:
presentation side until well
BATTERS / BREAD C RU M B S / C O R N M E A L / FLO U R
browned.

4. Turn the food and cook it to

the desired doneness.
To develop additional flavor, season the item with addi­
tional ingredients prior to pan frying. These ingredients can also be added to
5. Remove the food and finish the coating or batter that will be used to cover the item:
it in an oven, if necessary.
FRESH HERBS / D RIE D SPIC E S
6. Drain the food on paper
towels.

7. Season and serve it with

an appropriate sauce and
garnish.

494 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

1. bread the food using th e sta n d a rd bre a d ­
ing pro ced ure de scrib ed on page 36 5. F irs t b lo t the fo o d
dry w ith paper to w e ls. Any m o is tu re le ft on th e surface
could make the coating to o m oist. It w ill also break down i—*•
the cooking fa t m ore quickly and cause it to splatter. Sea­ P
son b e fore coating the food. Foods are usually dipped in GTQ
flo u r or a meal, then in egg wash, fo llo w e d by a coa ting o f
bread crumbs. Egg wash is a m ixtu re o f beaten eggs and
water, m ilk, or cream. For best results, w hisk the eggs well
un til they are hom ogeneous in color and the re are no v is ­
ible clumps o f albumen. Rem em ber to shake o f f any excess
bread crumbs be fore placing th e ite m in the hot fa t. S tan­
dard breading can be applied 20 to 25 m inutes in advance.
The pan and th e coo kin g fa t m ust reach th e c o rre c t
te m p e ra tu re b e fo re th e fo o d is added. O therw ise, the
c ru s t’s d e ve lo p m e n t w ill be slowed, and it may never
achieve th e de sire d crisp te x tu re and golden brow n color.
As a rule o f thum b, add enough fa t to com e o n e -h a lf to
tw o -th ird s o f th e w ay up th e fo o d ; th e th in n e r th e fo o d ,
the less fa t is req uire d. W hen a fa in t haze or s lig h t shim ­
m er is n o ticea ble , th e f a t is usually h o t enough. To te s t the
te m p e ra tu re , dip a co rn e r o f th e fo o d in th e fa t. If th e fa t
is a t ab o u t 3 5 0 °F /1 7 7 °C , it w ill bubble around th e foo d, m eth o d in detail
and th e co a tin g w ill s ta r t to brow n w ith in 45 seconds.

2. add the food carefully to th e hot

f a t and cook on th e p re s e n ta tio n side u n til good c ru s t and
c o lo r develop. Exercise e xtre m e cau tion a t th is p o in t to
p re ve n t burns. G e ttin g p a n -frie d fo o d s evenly brow ned
and crisp req uire s th a t th e fo o d be in d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith
th e h o t fa t. Be sure n o t to ove rcrow d th e pan, o r th e fo o d
may n o t develop good c o lo r and te x tu re . If th e re is n o t
enough fa t in th e pan, th e fo o d may s tic k to th e pan and
tear, o r th e co a tin g m ay com e away. W hen pan fry in g
large q u a n titie s , skim or s tra in away any loose p a rtic le s
betw een batches. Add m ore fre s h f a t to keep th e level
c o n s ta n t and to p re ve n t sm oking o r foam ing.

ch a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F RYING , A N D DEEP FRYIN G 495

 3. turn the food once and continue to
cook it u n til th e second side is golden and th e fo o d is
p ro p e rly cooked. It is d iff ic u lt to give precise in s tru c tio n s
fo r d e te rm in in g doneness in p a n -frie d foo ds. In general,
th e th in n e r and m ore de lica te th e m eat, the m ore qu ickly
it w ill cook. P a n -frie d item s, like sauteed and d e e p -frie d
item s, even th in pieces, are su b je ct to carryo ver cooking.
It is thu s b e st to s lig h tly undercook. For m ore in fo rm a ­
tio n , review General G uidelines f o r D e te rm in in g Doneness
on page 366.
Some fo o d s, because th e y are th ic k or include bones
o r a s tu ffin g , may need to be rem oved fro m th e f a t and
placed in th e oven to fin is h cooking. If th e y do need to
go in to th e oven, be sure th a t th e y are n o t covered. A lid
could tra p steam to s o fte n th e crisp coating.
Drain or b lo t p a n -frie d fo o d on clean paper or clo th
tow e ls. The fo o d is ready to serve now. Do n o t hold frie d
fo o d s fo r m ore tha n a very b rie f pe rio d b e fo re serving.
They te n d to g e t soggy quickly. Do n o t cover frie d fo o d s if
th e y need to be held fo r a s h o rt pe rio d o f tim e ; hold in dry
heat on an open rack. Serve sauces fo r p a n -frie d fo o d s
under th e fo o d or se p a ra te ly to preserve th e crust.

496 M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 Q -
rt>
CD
D e e p - f r ie d

a c r is p
fo o ds have m a n y of th e s am e c h a r a c t e r is t ic s as pan - f r ie d fo o d s , in c l u d in g

, b r o w n e d e x t e r io r a n d a m o is t , f l a v o r f u l in t e r io r . H o w e v e r , d e e p - f r ie d f o o d s a r e
T3
cooked in e n o u g h fat or o il to c o m p l e t e l y s u b m e r g e t h e m . In d e e p f r y in g , s ig n if ic a n t l y m o r e

FA T IS U S E D T H A N F O R E I T H E R S A U T E I N G O R PAN F R Y I N G .

i—*<
P
Orq

deep frying
The fo o d is a lm o st always coated w ith a stan dard breading, a b a tte r such as a tem pu ra or
beer b a tte r, o r a sim ple flo u r coating. The co a tin g a cts as a b a rrie r betw een the fa t and the
fo o d and also c o n trib u te s fla v o r and te x tu re . Deep fry in g is also su ita b le fo r c ro q u e tte s
and s im ila r dishes made fro m a m ix tu re o f cooked, diced m eats, fish , o r p o u ltry , bound w ith
a heavy becham el and breaded.
To cook ra p id ly and evenly, fo o d s m ust be trim m e d and cu t in to a u n ifo rm size and
shape. S e le ct cuts th a t are n a tu ra lly te n d e r; some ty p ic a l choices include p o u ltry, seafood,
and vegetables. Remove the skin and bones o f p o u ltry and fis h fille ts i f necessary o r de­
sired. Be c e rta in to season th e fo o d b e fo re adding a coating.
Breadings and coatings are com m on fo r d e e p -frie d foo ds. S tandard breading can be
done 20 to 25 m inutes ahead and the item s re frig e ra te d b e fo re fry in g , b u t id ea lly bre ad­
ing should be done as close to service as possible. For stan dard bre ad ing in stru ctio n s, see
page 365. A b a tte r o r plain flo u r co a tin g is applied im m e d ia te ly b e fo re cooking.
E le c tric o r gas deep fry e rs w ith baskets are ty p ic a lly used f o r deep fry in g , although it
is also fe a s ib le to f r y fo o d s on th e s to v e to p in a large pot. The sides should be high enough
to pre ven t f a t fro m fo a m in g over or splashing, and th e p o t w ide enough to allow th e chef
to add and rem ove fo o d s easily. Use a d e e p -fa t fry in g th e rm o m e te r to check th e fa t's te m ­
perature , reg ard less o f w h e th e r you use a fry e r o r a pot. Become fa m ilia r w ith the frye r's
reco very tim e (the tim e needed fo r th e fa t to regain th e p ro p e r te m p e ra tu re a fte r fo o d is
added). The fa t w ill lose te m p e ra tu re f o r a b rie f tim e when fo o d is added. The m ore food,
th e m ore the te m p e ra tu re w ill drop and th e longer it w ill ta ke to com e back to th e p ro pe r
level.
K itchens th a t m ust fr y m any kinds o f fo o d o fte n have several fry e rs to help p re ven t f la ­
vo r tra n s fe r. Have a pan lined w ith paper to w e ls to b lo t frie d fo o d s b e fo re th e y are served.
Tongs, spiders, and baskets help add fo o d s to the fry e r and rem ove the m when p ro p e rly
cooked.

ch a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP F R Y IN G 497

 basic formula
Deep Frying Enough cooking fat or oil to Salt and pepper, plus other
(1 entree portion) completely submerge the food seasonings as required

1 boneless portion (6 to 8 oz/170 Standard breading, batter, 2 to 3 f I oz/60 to 90 mL

to 227 g) meat, poultry, or seafood or other coating prepared sauce
(adjust portion size to account
for bones, skin, or shells)

method
at-a-glance
H eat the fa t to th e proper
te m p era ture .

Add the main ite m (usually

breaded or b a tte r-c o a te d )
to the h ot fa t, using the
a p p ro p ria te m ethod.
Depending on the desired result, different crusts canbe
achieved depending on the type of coating used. These coatings include:
B ATTERS / BREAD C R U M B S / FLO U R

Turn the fo o d during fryin g ,

i f necessary. To develop additional flavor, season the item with addi­
tional ingredients prior to deep frying. These ingredients can be added to the
Remove th e fo o d and fin ish
coating or batter used to cover the item:
i t in an oven, if necessary.
FRESH HERBS / D RIED SPIC E S
5 . B lo t th e fo o d w ith paper
tow els.

Season and serve it w ith

th e a p p ro p ria te sauce and
garnish.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 o -
a>

1. heat the cooking fat to th e p ro p e r

CD
te m p e ra tu re (ge ne rally 3 2 5 ° to 3 7 5 °F /1 6 3 ° to 191°C).
T5
The fa t m ust reach and m a intain a ne arly ste a d y te m p e ra ­
tu re th ro u g h o u t th e fry in g tim e to pre pa re crisp, fla v o rfu l,
and nongreasy frie d fo o d s. P rop er m aintenance o f o il w ill i—*<

help e xte nd its life . Old fa ts and oils have a d a rke r color
and m ore pronounced arom a than fre s h oil. They may also CTQ
sm oke a t a lo w er te m p e ra tu re and foa m when fo o d s are
added. Be sure to s tra in or f ilt e r th e o il p ro p e rly a fte r
each m eal period. Replenish th e fry e r's oil to th e a p p ro p ri­
ate level if necessary.
The sw im m ing m e th o d o f fry in g is generally used fo r
b a tte re d foo d. To coat prepped fo o d w ith ba tte r, du st it
f ir s t w ith flou r, then shake o f f th e excess b e fo re dropping
it in to th e ba tte r. Remove the fo o d w ith tongs and b rie fly
le t any excess b a tte r d rip o ff. C a refully low er the b a t­
te re d fo o d halfw ay in to the h o t oil w ith the tongs, or w ith
your fing ers, using extra caution. When it s ta rts to bubble,
release it; it w ill n o t sink. The b a s k e t m e th o d is generally
used fo r breaded item s. Place th e breaded fo o d in a fry in g
basket and then low er b o th the fo o d and the basket in to
the hot fa t. Once th e fo o d is cooked, use the ba sket to lif t
o u t the foo d. Foods th a t w ould tend to rise to the surface
to o rap id ly are held down by s e ttin g a second basket on to p
o f the fo o d ; th is is known as th e doub le-b aske t m ethod.
The choice betw een the tw o m ethods o f deep fry in g
depends on th e foo d, th e coating, and the intended result.
Use all your senses as w ell as a th e rm o m e te r to accurately
judge in te rn a l doneness. For m ore in fo rm a tio n , review Gen­
eral G uidelines fo r D e te rm ining Doneness on page 366.

2. fry food until it is fully cooked

and th e co a tin g is a lig h t golden brown. Drain on paper
to w e ls b e fo re serving. E valuate th e q u a lity o f the fin ish e d
d e e p -frie d fo o d . D e e p -frie d fo o d s should ta s te like the
fo o d , n o t like th e fa t used (or like o th e r fo o d s p re vio usly
frie d in th e fa t). Foods served ve ry hot, d ire c tly fro m the
fry in g k e ttle , have a b e tte r, less g re asy ta s te . If th e fo o d
ta s te s heavy, greasy, o r s tro n g ly o f a n o th e r fo o d , th e fa t
was n o t h o t enough, th e f a t was to o old, o r a s tro n g ly f la ­
vored fo o d such as fis h was frie d in th e same fa t.
W ell-prepared de e p -frie d fo o d has a m o ist and ten der
interior, w ith a crisp, delicate crust. If the crust has become
soggy, the fo o d may have been held to o long a fte r cooking
or, again, the o il was n o t a t the co rre ct tem pe rature .

Chapter 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING 499

 Sauteed Chicken with Fines Herbes Sauce
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
Fines Herbes Sauce
Makes 10 servings 2 tb sp /3 0 mL clarified butter

3/4 oz/21 g minced shallots

Ten 7 to 8 -o z /1 9 8 to 2 2 7 -g
boneless chicken supremes 9 fl o z/2 7 0 mL dry white wine

2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt 6 o z/1 7 0 g Fines Herbes (page 369)

1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper 20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Jus de Volaille Lie (page 293), Jus
de Veau Lie (page 293), or Demi-Glace (page 293)
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour (optional)
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL heavy cream
2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
Salt, as needed
3A o z/21 g minced shallot
Ground black pepper, as needed
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL dry white wine

20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Fines Herbes Sauce (recipe follows) 1 . Heat the butter in a small sauce pot over medium-
4 o z/1 1 3 g Fines Herbes (page 369) high heat. Add the shallots and sweat until translu­
cent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wine and fines herbes

1 . Blot the chicken dry and season with salt and pep­ and simmer at 180° to i85°F/82° to 85°C until nearly

per. Dredge in flour, if desired. dry.

2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium- 2 . Add the jus lie, bring back to a simmer, and reduce
high heat until almost smoking. Saute the chicken slightly. Add the cream and continue to simmer the

on the presentation side until golden brown, about sauce to reach a good flavor and consistency, skim­

3 minutes. Turn the chicken and continue to saute ming as necessary.

until cooked through ( i 8 o°F/82°C). Remove the 3 . Season with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce.
chicken from the pan and keep warm while complet­ 4 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly
ing the sauce. cooled and refrigerated for later use if using demi-
3 . Degrease the pan. Add the shallots and saute them glace.
until translucent, about l minute.
NOTE: This sauce can also be prepared a la minute using
4 . Deglaze the pan with the wine. Reduce it until 1 tbsp /1 5m L glace de volaille fo r each chicken breast.
almost dry, about 3 minutes. Add the fines herbes
sauce, simmer briefly, and reduce to a nappe
consistency.
5 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and stir in the
fines herbes.
6 . Serve the chicken immediately with the sauce or
hold hot for service.

NOTE: For banquet production of sauteed items, the sauce

can be prepared in advance. The quality o f the sauce
can vary because the pan drippings cannot always be
incorporated into a premade sauce.

500 M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
Chicken Provengal B ee f Tournedos Provencal: Substitute ten 6-oz/170-g
beef tournedos fo r the chicken and red wine fo r the
Makes 10 servings
w hite wine. Season the beef w ith salt and pepper and
saute to desired doneness follow ing the above method:
Ten 7 to 8 -o z /1 9 8 to 2 2 7 -g chicken supremes
2 minutes per side fo r rare (135°F/57°C), 3 minutes per
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt side fo r m edium-rare (145°F/63°C), AV2 minutes per
side fo r medium (160oF/71°C), 6 minutes per side for
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
medium-well (165°F/74°C), and 7 minutes per side fo r
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour (optional) well-done (170°F/77°C). Remove the beef from the pan
and reserve warm while finishing the sauce follow ing
2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
the above method. Tender cuts of meat should never be
PROVENCAL SAUCE simmered in the sauce as it may cause them to toughen.

2 ts p /6 g minced garlic

3 anchovy fillets, mashed to a paste

10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL dry white wine

24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Jus de Volatile Lie (page 293), Jus

de Veau Lie (page 293), or Demi-Glace (page 293)

12 o z/3 4 0 g tomato concasse

4 o z/1 1 3 g black olives, sliced or cut into julienne

1 o z/2 8 g basil chiffonade

1 . Blot the chicken dry and season with salt and pep­
per. Dredge in flour, if desired.
2 .. Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium-
high heat until almost smoking. Saute the chicken
on the presentation side until golden brown, about
3 minutes. Turn the chicken and continue to saute
until cooked through ( i 65°F/74°C). Remove the
chicken from the pan and keep warm while complet­
ing the sauce.
3 . Pour off the excess fat from the pan and add the
garlic and anchovies; saute for 30 to 40 seconds to
release their aroma. Add the wine to deglaze the pan
and simmer until almost dry.
4 . Add the jus lie and any juices released by the
chicken. Reduce to a good flavor and consistency.
Add the tomatoes, olives, and basil. Adjust seasoning
with salt and pepper as needed.
5 . Return the chicken to the oven to reheat. Serve im­
mediately with the sauce or hold hot for service.

NOTE: You may elect to use d iffe re n t kinds o f olives in this

dish, introduce some capers, or add other herbs, either
in addition to or as a replacement fo r the basil. Oregano,
marjoram, chives, chervil, and thyme are all good choices.

c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYIN G 501

wttm
 sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
Emince o f Swiss-Style Veal Scaloppine
Veal Marsala
Makes 10 servings Makes 10 servings

3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg veal top round or 3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg boneless veal top round,

tender leg cut, cut into emince cut into ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g portions

4 ts p /1 3 g s a lt 2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt

2 ts p /4 g ground black pepper 1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper

3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour (optional) 3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour (optional)

2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil 2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil

3 o z/8 5 g chopped shallot V 2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot

5 o z/1 4 2 g sliced mushrooms 6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL white wine

10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL white wine 2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Marsala Sauce (page 504)

10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Jus de Veau Lie (page 5 o z /1 4 2 g butter, diced (optional)

2 9 3) or Demi-Glace (page 293)

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL heavy cream 1 . Pound each portion of veal between sheets of parch­
2 tb sp /3 0 mL brandy ment paper or plastic wrap to a thickness of V4 in/6
mm. Blot dry and season with salt and pepper.
2 ts p /1 0 mL lemon juice
Dredge in flour, if desired.

1 . Blot the veal dry and season with salt and pepper. 2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium-
high heat until almost smoking. Saute the veal to
Dredge in flour, if desired.
the desired doneness, about 2 minutes per side for
2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium- medium (i65°F/74°C). Remove the veal from the pan
high heat until almost smoking. Working in batches,
and keep warm while completing the sauce.
saute the veal, stirring from time to time, until the
desired doneness (i65°F/74°C), about 3 minutes. 3 . Degrease the pan. Add the shallots and saute until
translucent, about 1 minute.
Remove the veal from the pan and keep warm while
completing the sauce. 4 . Deglaze the pan with the wine; reduce until almost
dry, about 3 minutes. Add the Marsala sauce and
3 . Degrease the pan. Add the shallots and mushrooms
simmer briefly.
and saute until softened and translucent, about 3
minutes. 5 . Return the veal to the sauce to reheat. Return the
sauce to a simmer and adjust seasoning with salt and
4 . Deglaze the pan with the wine; reduce until almost
pepper as needed. Swirl in the butter to finish the
dry, about 3 minutes.
sauce, if desired.
5 . Add the jus lie, cream, brandy, and any juices re­
6 . Serve the veal immediately with the sauce or hold
leased from the veal. Reduce until a good flavor and
hot for service.
consistency is achieved, 1 to 2 minutes.
6 . Add the lemon juice and adjust seasoning with salt
Pork S caloppine w ith Tom ato Sauce: Substitute boneless
and pepper, if necessary.
pork loin fo r the veal and Tomato Sauce (page 295) fo r
7 . Serve the veal immediately with the sauce or hold the Marsala sauce.
hot for service.

Chapter 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYIN G 503

 Marsala Sauce
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
4 o z/1 13 g minced shallot
1 lb /4 5 4 g sliced mushrooms
2 tb sp /3 0 mL clarified butter
24 f I o z/7 20 mL Jus de Veau Lie (page
2 9 3) or Demi-Glace (page 293)
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Marsala
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, diced (see Notes)
1 . Saute the shallots and mushrooms in a saucepan
until the mushrooms are tender and the shallots are
translucent. Add Marsala and reduce by half.
2 . Add the jus lie and simmer at 180° to i85°F/82° to
85°C until the sauce has developed a good flavor and
consistency.
3 . Season with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce into a
clean saucepan.
4 . Whisk in the butter. Adjust seasoning with salt and
pepper. The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be
rapidly cooled, refrigerated, and reheated for later
use if using demi-glace.
NOTES: As an option, 8 f l o z/2 40 mL heavy cream may be
substituted fo r the butter. The sauce may need to be
reduced slightly to achieve the proper consistency.
Whisk in the bu tte r only if using the sauce immediately.
If storing fo r later use, whisk in the bu tte r ju st before
using.
If using the sauce fo r Veal Scaloppine Marsala, om it the
butter.
504 M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H
Noisettes of Pork with
Green Peppercorns
and Pineapple
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg boneless pork leg or loin,
cut into twenty 3 -o z/8 5 -g noisettes
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g salt
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
2 fl o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
3/ t o z/21 g minced shallot
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL white wine
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Brown Pork Stock (page 264), Jus
de Veau Lie (page 293), or Demi-Glace (page 293)
5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL heavy cream
1 tb s p /1 5 mL Dijon mustard
7 o z/1 9 8 g small-dice pineapple
1 o z/2 8 g drained green peppercorns
1 . Blot the pork dry and season with salt and pepper.
3 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium-
high heat until almost smoking. Saute the pork to
145°F/63°C, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove the
pork from the pan and keep warm while completing
the sauce.
3 . Degrease the pan. Add the shallots and saute them
until translucent, about 1 minute.
4 . Deglaze the pan with the wine; reduce until almost
dry, about 3 minutes.
5 . Add the stock, cream, and any juices released by the
pork. Reduce to a good flavor and consistency. Strain
into a clean saucepan and return to a simmer.
6 . Add the mustard, pineapple, and peppercorns and
adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
Return the pork to the sauce to reheat.
7 . Serve 2 noisettes per serving with the sauce immedi­
ately, or hold hot for service.

Sauteed Medallions
o f Pork with W inter
Fruit Sauce
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg boneless pork loin, cut
into twenty 3 -o z/8 5 -g medallions
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
2 fl o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL dry white wine
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL W inter Fruit Sauce (recipe follows)
1 . Blot the pork dry and season with salt and pepper.
2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium-
high heat until almost smoking. Saute the pork to
145°F/63°C, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove the
pork from the pan and keep warm while completing
the sauce.
3 . Degrease the pan. Deglaze the pan with the wine;
reduce until almost dry, about 3 minutes.
4 . Add the fruit sauce and any juices released by the
pork. Reduce to a good flavor and consistency. Ad­
just seasoning with salt and pepper.
5 . Serve the pork immediately with the sauce or hold
hot for service.
ch a p te r 18 »
sauteing, pan trying, and deep trying recipes
Winter Fruit Sauce
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL semidry white wine
3'/2 o z/9 9 g dried apricots (sulfur free)
P /4 o z/5 0 g dried cherries
2 fl o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
1 o z/2 8 g minced shallot
5 o z/1 4 2 g peeled, small-dice Red Delicious apples
4 o z/1 1 3 g peeled, small-dice B artlett pears
2 fl o z/6 0 mL apple-flavored brandy
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL Brown Pork Stock (page 264), Jus
de Veau Lie (page 293), or Demi-Glace (page 293)
2 ts p /1 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Heat the wine in a small saucepan to just below
a boil. Remove from the heat and add the dried
apricots and cherries. Let the fruit soak in the wine
(macerate) for 30 minutes. Drain the fruit and re­
serve the wine separately.
2 . Heat the butter in a medium saucepan over medium
heat and add the shallots. Saute until translucent,
1 to 2 minutes. Add the apples and pears and saute
until lightly browned.
3 . Add the brandy to deglaze the pan and reduce until
almost dry. Add the reserved wine and bring to a
simmer. Add the stock and bring to a simmer again.
Simmer until reduced to a good flavor and con­
sistency. Add the macerated fruit and season with
lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
4 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly
cooled and refrigerated for later use.
S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING 505
Pork Medallions with
Warm Cabbage Salad
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg pork tenderloin, cut
into thirty 2 -o z/5 7 -g medallions
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
2 fl o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL dry white wine
20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Sherry Vinegar Sauce (page 450)
10 servings Warm Cabbage Salad (recipe follows)
1 . Blot the pork dry and season with salt and pepper.
2 !. Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium-
high heat until almost smoking. Saute the pork 2 to
3 minutes per side to i6o°F/7i°C. Remove the pork
from the pan and keep warm while completing the
sauce.
3 . Degrease the pan and add the wine to deglaze the
pan; reduce until almost dry.
4 . Add the sherry vinegar sauce and any juices released
by the pork. Reduce to a good flavor and consistency
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed.
5 . Serve the pork immediately with the sauce and
warm cabbage salad or hold hot for service.
N o ise tte s o f P ork w ith Red Onion C o n fit: Saute the pork
follow ing the above method. Replace the warm cabbage
salad w ith red onion confit. To make the red onion confit,
simmer 2 lb /9 0 7 g sliced red onions w ith 4 fl oz/120
mL honey, 4 f I oz/1 20 mL red wine, and 5 f I oz/150 mL
red wine vinegar until the mixture is the consistency
o f marmalade, about 40 minutes. Adjust seasoning
w ith salt and pepper. Keep warm fo r service or cool and
refrigerate fo r later service. See the accompanying
photo fo r this variation.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
Warm Cabbage Salad
Makes 10 servings
l 3/ t o z/5 0 g minced bacon
1 o z/2 8 g butter
3 '/ 2 o z/9 9 g small-dice red onion
V i o z/1 4 g minced garlic
2 lb /9 0 7 g savoy cabbage chiffonade
l 3/ t f I o z/5 3 mL sherry vinegar
1 o z/2 8 g sugar
1 ts p /2 g caraway seeds
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Cook the bacon in a saute pan over medium heat un­
til the fat is rendered and the bacon is crisp. Remove
the bacon with a slotted spoon, allowing the fat to
drain back into the pan. Reserve the bacon.
2 . Add the butter to the pan. Add the onions and
garlic and saute until translucent and tender, 2 to 3
minutes.
3 . Add the cabbage, toss to coat evenly with the fat, and
saute until limp, stirring frequently, 6 to 8 minutes.
4 . Add the vinegar, sugar, and caraway seeds, and bring
to a simmer. Cook until the cabbage is very hot and
tender, 3 to 4 minutes more. Add the parsley. Season
with salt and pepper.
5 . Serve immediately or hold hot for service.
Pork Cutlet with
Sauce Robert
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg boneless pork leg or
loin, cut into ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g portions
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour (optional)
2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL dry white wine
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Sauce Robert (recipe follows)
1 . Pound each portion of pork between sheets of parch­
ment paper or plastic wrap to a thickness of V4 in/
6 mm.
2 . Blot the cutlets dry and season with salt and pepper.
Dredge in flour, if desired.
3 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium-
high heat until almost smoking. Working in batches,
saute the pork on the presentation side until golden
brown, about 3 minutes. Turn the pork and continue
to saute until done (i45°F/63°C), 2 to 3 minutes. Re­
move the cutlets from the pan and keep warm while
completing the sauce.
4 . Degrease the pan and deglaze with the wine; reduce
until almost dry, about 3 minutes. Add the sauce
Robert and any juices released from the pork. Cook
until heated through, stirring constantly. Adjust sea­
soning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
5 . Serve the pork immediately with the sauce or hold
hot for service.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Sauce Robert
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
2 fl o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
2 o z/5 7 g finely chopped shallot
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL dry white wine
1 ts p /2 g cracked black peppercorns
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293)
2 tb sp /3 0 mL Dijon mustard
2 ts p /1 0 mL lemon juice
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, diced
1 . Heat the clarified butter in a medium saucepan over
medium-low heat. Add the shallots and saute until
translucent, 2 to 3 minutes.
2 . Add the wine and peppercorns, bring to a simmer,
and reduce by half.
3 . Stir in the demi-glace, return to a simmer, and cook
for 20 minutes, stirring frequently, until the flavors
of the aromatics have infused and the sauce has
thickened. Strain the sauce into a clean pan and re­
turn to a simmer.
4 . Add the mustard and lemon juice. Season with salt
and pepper.
5 . Finish the sauce by swirling in the diced butter. The
sauce is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly cooled
and refrigerated for later use.
Sauce C harcutiere: Add V/ 2 oz/43 gjulienned cornichons to
the sauce along w ith the mustard and lemon juice.

Red Snapper with
Grapefruit Salsa
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg skin-on red snapper
fillets, cut into ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g portions
1 ts p /3 g s a lt
Pinch ground black pepper
4 o z/1 1 3 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil, or as needed
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Grapefruit Salsa (page 955)
1 . Season the snapper with the salt and pepper. Dredge
the flesh of the snapper, but not the skin, in the
flour, shaking off the excess.
2 . Heat the oil in a saute pan over medium-high heat.
Saute the snapper until golden brown and cooked
through, 2 to 3 minutes per side, depending on
thickness of the fillet.
3 . Serve immediately with the salsa.
c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYIN G
sauteing, pan trying, and deep trying recipes
Trout Amandine
Makes 10 servings
Ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g trout fillets
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL milk, or as needed (optional)
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
2 fl o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
10 o z/2 8 4 g whole butter
5 o z/1 4 2 g slivered almonds
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL lemon juice
2 o z/5 7 g chopped parsley
1 . Blot the trout fillets dry and season with salt and
pepper. Dip the trout fillets into milk, if desired, and
dredge with flour, shaking off any excess.
2 . Heat the clarified butter in a large saute pan over
medium heat. Saute the trout for 2 to 3 minutes
on each side, or until the flesh is opaque and firm
(i45°F/63°C). Remove the fish from the pan and
keep warm while completing the sauce.
3 . Degrease the pan and add the whole butter. Cook the
butter over medium-high heat until lightly browned
with a nutty aroma, 2 to 3 minutes.
4 . Add the almonds, stir to coat them evenly, and toast
lighly until golden brown. Add the lemon juice and
swirl to deglaze the pan. Add the parsley.
5 . Serve the trout immediately with the sauce or hold
hot for service.
509
Ancho-Crusted Salmon w ith Yellow Pepper Sauce, Stewed Black
Beans (page 775), and Summer Squash Noodles (page 704)
 sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
Ancho-Crusted Yellow Pepper Sauce
Makes 32 fl oz/ 9 6 0 mL
Salmon with Yellow
2 t b s p /3 0 mL olive oil
Pepper Sauce 12 o z /3 4 0 g sliced onion
Makes 1 0 servings
1 t s p /3 g sliced garlic

2 ancho chiles 1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g yellow peppers, seeded and chopped

1 tb s p /6 g cumin seeds 5 o z /1 4 2 g chopped fennel

1 tb s p /6 g fen n el seeds One 2 -in /5 -c m cinnamon stick

4'/> ts p /7 .5 0 g coriander seeds 'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground allspice

1 tb s p /6 g black peppercorns V/ 2 ts p /3 g dried epazote

1 tb s p /6 g dried thym e 3A o z /2 1 g sugar

1 tb s p /6 g dried oregano 8 flo z /2 4 0 m L w a te r

l '/ 2 o z / 4 3 g s a l t 3 o z /8 5 g tom atillos, q uartered

1 tb s p /6 g dry m ustard 2 t b s p /3 0 mL lime juice, or as needed

3 lb 12 o z /1 .7 0 kg salmon fille t, cut Salt, as needed

into ten 6 -o z /1 7 0 -g portions

3 tb s p /4 5 mL clarified b u tte r or oil 1 . Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium-
2 0 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Yellow Pepper Sauce (recipe follow s) high heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook until
translucent, about 8 minutes.

1 . Remove and discard the stems and seeds from the 2.. Add the peppers, fennel, cinnamon, allspice, epa­
chiles. Roughly chop the chiles. zote, sugar, and water.

2.. Toast the chiles, cumin, fennel, and coriander seeds 3 . Cover the pot and simmer on low heat until the pep­
on a sheet pan in a 300°F/i49°C oven until fragrant, pers are soft, about 25 minutes.
about 5 minutes. Remove and cool to room 4 . Transfer the mixture to a blender and puree with the
temperature. tomatillos until very smooth. Strain through a large-
3 . Combine the toasted spices with the peppercorns, holed strainer.
thyme, and oregano in a spice grinder. Grind to a 5 . Season with the lime juice and salt. The sauce is
coarse powder. Stir in the salt and dry mustard. ready to serve now, or may be rapidly cooled and
4 . Lightly coat each portion of salmon with the spice refrigerated for later use.
rub. Heat the butter in a large saute pan over
medium-high heat. Saute the salmon on the pre­
sentation side until the spices start to brown, l to 2
minutes.
5 . Flip the salmon over and cook over medium heat or
in a 350°F/i77°C oven for 4 to 6 minutes (depending
on thickness of cut), until desired doneness.
6 . Serve immediately with the sauce or hold hot for

c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING 511

Vatapa 4 . Reduce the heat to medium and add the tomato
paste. Saute for 1 minute. Deglaze with the wine.
Makes 10 servings
Add the stock and reserved coconut water and bring
1 whole coconut (about 1 lb 14 o z/8 5 0 g) to a boil. Reduce the mixture by half, about 10 min­
utes. Reduce the heat to low, whisk in the roux, and
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL olive oil
simmer for 15 minutes longer.
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count),
peeled and deveined, shells reserved 5 . Add the cream and reduce over medium heat to a
nappe consistency, 1 to 2 minutes. Strain the sauce
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL brandy
through a fine-mesh sieve.
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice onion
6 . Season the monkfish with the salt and pepper and
3 garlic cloves, minced
dredge in flour. Saute the monkfish in the remain­
2jalapenos, small dice ing oil over high heat for 5 to 7 minutes, then add
2 'A o z/71 g chopped unsalted peanuts the shrimp. Saute both until cooked through, 2 to 3
minutes. Add the sauce. Check the consistency and
21/2 o z/71 g grated ginger
seasoning of the vatapa.
2 o z/5 7 g tomato paste
7 . Serve immediately, garnished with the tomatoes, the
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL white wine toasted coconut, peanuts, and cilantro, or hold hot
l ’/ 2 q t/1 .4 4 L Shellfish Stock (page 264), Fish for service.
Fumet (page 264), or Chicken Stock (page 263)

3 o z/8 5 g White Roux (page 246)

12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL heavy cream

2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg monkfish, cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes

I V 2 ts p /5 g salt

'A ts p /0.50 g ground black pepper

4 o z /1 13 g all-purpose flour

8 o z/2 2 7 g peeled, seeded, and small-diced tomato

4 o z/1 1 3 g toasted unsalted peanuts

3 tb sp /9 g cilantro leaves

1 . Split the coconut in half and reserve the water. Re­

move the flesh, peel off the brown skin, and shred
the flesh. Toast 4 oz/113 g of the shredded flesh in
a 350°F/i77°C oven until a light golden brown; re­
serve. Reserve the remaining shredded coconut for
the sauce.
2 . Heat 3 tbsp/45 mL of the oil in a large saute pan over
high heat. Saute the reserved shrimp shells until
pink and slightly caramelized, 45 seconds to 1 min­
ute. Add the brandy and flambe the shells.
3 . Add the onions, garlic, jalapenos, the reserved shred­
ded coconut, chopped peanuts, and ginger to the
shrimp shells and saute for 3 minutes.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H


Sauteed Trout a la
Meuniere
Makes 10 servings
Ten 9 to 1 0 -o z /2 5 5 to 2 8 4 -g pan-dressed trout
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
2 o z/5 7 g all-purpose flour
2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
10 o z/2 8 4 g whole butter
2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice
B tb sp /9 g chopped parsley
1 . Blot the trout dry and season with salt and pepper.
Dredge in flour.
2 . Heat the clarified butter in a large saute pan over
medium heat. Working in batches, saute the trout
until lightly browned and cooked through, 3 to 4
minutes per side. Remove the trout from the pan
and keep warm while completing the sauce.
3 . Degrease the pan and add the whole butter. Cook the
butter over medium-high heat until lightly browned
with a nutty aroma, 2 to 3 minutes.
4 . Add the lemon juice to the pan and swirl to deglaze
it. Add the parsley and pour or spoon the sauce over
the trout. Serve immediately.
ch a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYIN G
sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
Shrimp Ticin-Xic
Makes 8 servings
33A o z/1 0 6 g achiote paste
2 o z/5 7 g chopped white onion
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g cloves
6 garlic cloves
Pinch ground allspice
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
l '/2 ts p /5 g salt
4 f l o z/1 2 0 mL Seville orange juice
2 tb s p /3 0 mL white vinegar
3 3/ t f l o z/1 1 3 mL lime juice
3A o z/21 g serrano chiles, stems removed
2 lb /9 0 7 g shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil (optional)
2 banana leaves, cut into 6 -in /
15-cm squares (optional)
1 . In a food processor or blender, puree the achiote
paste, onions, cloves, garlic, allspice, black pepper,
salt, orange juice, vinegar, lime juice, and chiles until
smooth.
2.. Place the shrimp in a shallow dish and pour the
puree over. Marinate for 1 hour, refrigerated, before
cooking.
3 . The shrimp can be cooked in two ways. Saute the
shrimp in the olive oil over high heat until cooked,
2 to 3 minutes. Alternatively, place 4 shrimp in the
middle of each banana leaf square and fold the cor­
ners of the leaf over the shrimp to make a package.
Secure the package with butcher’s twine or a strip
of banana leaf. Heat a i2-in/30-cm cast-iron skillet
over medium heat. Working in batches as necessary,
cook the shrimp for 4 minutes and flip the packages
over. Cook the shrimp for another 4 minutes or until
the shrimp is just cooked through. Unwrap from the
banana leaves before serving.
513
Bibimbap 5. Foreachportion,tossabout1V2oz/43gofthestir-fried
Makes10servings beefwithabout4oz/113g°frawvegetablesandserve
themontopof7oz/198goftherice.Slideafriedegg
MARINADE
outofthepanontopofthebeefandvegetables.
2 f I o z/6 0 mL Korean soy sauce
6. Serveimmediatelywith2tbsp/30mLpepperpaste
1 tb sp /1 5g su g a r
ontheside.
3A o z/21 g minced green onion, green and white parts

3/ t o z/21 g minced garlic

1 tb sp /9 g minced ginger

1 tb sp /6 g sesame seeds, toasted and ground

1 ts p /5 mL dark sesame oil

1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper

1 lb /4 5 4 g beef skirt steak, cut into julienne

8 o z/2 2 7 g red radish, cut into julienne

8 o z/2 2 7 g daikon, cut into julienne

8 o z/2 2 7 g carrot, cut into julienne

8 o z/2 2 7 g English cucumber, cut into julienne

10 shiso leaves chiffonade

8 o z/2 2 7 g iceberg lettuce chiffonade

2 V i f I o z/7 5 mL vegetable oil

10 eggs

4 lb 6 o z/1.98 kg Steamed Long-Grain Rice (page 785)

10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Korean red pepper paste

1. Com
binethesoysauce,sugar,greenonions,garlic,
ginger,sesameseeds,sesameoil,andpepperina
hotelpan.Addthebeef,stirtocoat,cover,andre­
frigeratefor24hours.
2.. Tosstogethertheradish,daikon,carrot, cucum ber,
shiso,andlettuceandrefrigerateuntilservice.
3. Heat2floz/6om Lofthevegetableoilinawokover
medium-highheat.Drainthebeefandstir-fryuntil
barelycookedthrough,3to4minutes. Removefrom
thepanandreservewarm.
4.H eattheremaining1tbsp/15mLoftheoilinalarge
nonsticksautepanovermedium-highheat. Frythe
eggssunny-sideup.

M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

Stir-Fried Squid with
Thai Basil
Makes 10 servings
I V 2 o z/4 3 g sliced garlic
2 tb sp /6 g finely chopped cilantro root
1 o z/2 8 g minced Thai chiles
1 ts p /2 g cracked black peppercorns
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
2 lb /9 0 7 g squid tubes and tentacles,
cut into large bite-size pieces
8 o z/2 2 7 g red pepper, cut into julienne
3 o z/8 5 g green onion, green and
white parts cut into julienne
2 fl o z/6 0 mL oyster sauce
2 f I o z/6 0 mL fish sauce
1 o z/2 8 g sugar
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 o z/2 8 g Thai basil leaves
1 . Combine the garlic, cilantro root, chiles, and pep­
percorns in a blender and process to a paste.
2 . Heat the oil in a wok over high heat, add the paste,
and stir-fry until aromatic, about 30 seconds.
3 . Add the squid and stir-fry until half cooked and
brown on the edges, 3 to 4 minutes.
4 . Add the peppers and stir-fry about 1 minute more.
5 . Add the green onions, oyster sauce, fish sauce, sugar,
and stock. Cook until the squid is just cooked, 2 to 3
minutes.
6 . Add the basil and toss well. Serve immediately or
hold hot for service.
c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING
sauteing, pan trying, and deep frying recipes
Breast o f Chicken
w ith Duxelles S tu ffin g
and Supreme Sauce
Makes 10 servings
Ten 7 to 8 -o z /1 9 8 to 2 2 7 -g
boneless chicken supremes
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
2 lb /9 0 7 g Duxelles Stuffing (page 482)
5 o z/1 4 2 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023), or as needed
12 o z/3 4 0 g dried bread crumbs, or as needed
2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL clarified butter or o il, or as needed
20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Supreme Sauce (page 294)
1 . Trim the chicken supremes and remove the skin,
if desired. Butterfly each breast portion and pound
between sheets of parchment paper or plastic wrap
to even thickness.
2 . At the time of service or up to 3 hours in advance,
blot dry the chicken and season with salt and pep­
per. Spread each breast with a portion of the dux­
elles stuffing and roll the breast around the stuffing.
Overlap the edges to form a seam.
3 . Apply a standard breading: Dredge the chicken in
flour, dip in egg wash, and roll in bread crumbs.
(Refrigerate, seam side down, on a wire rack over a
sheet pan if breaded in advance.)
4 . Heat about Vz in/i cm butter to about 35o°F/i77°C
in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the
chicken to the butter, seam side down first, and pan
fry until golden brown and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes.
Turn once and finish pan frying on the second side
until the chicken reaches an internal temperature
of 170°F/77°C, about 3 minutes more. (Finish cook­
ing in a 350°F/i77°F oven once the crust is properly
browned, if preferred.)
5 . Drain the chicken briefly on paper towels and serve
immediately with the heated sauce.
5 15
B utterm ilk Fried
Chicken
Makes 10 servings
Four 3 lb 8 -o z/1 .5 9 -k g chickens,
cut into 10 pieces each
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL buttermilk
4 tb sp /1 2 g minced tarragon
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Dijon mustard
r /2 ts p /2 g poultry seasoning
4 tb s p /4 0 g s a lt
2 lb /9 0 7 g all-purpose flour
l 1/t s p / 3 g cayenne
V 2 o z/1 4 g Old Bay seasoning
2 q t/1 .9 2 L peanut oil, or as needed
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Country Gravy (recipe follows)
1 . Combine the chicken pieces with the buttermilk,
tarragon, mustard, poultry seasoning, and 2 tbsp/
20 g salt. Mix well and marinate, covered, in the re­
frigerator overnight.
2 . Combine the flour with the cayenne, Old Bay, and
the remaining salt. Mix well.
3 . Drain the chicken and discard the marinade. Dredge
in the flour and let sit for at least 30 minutes on a
wire rack.
4 . Heat the oil in a i2-in/30-cm cast-iron skillet over
medium-high heat. Dredge the chicken in the flour
again. When the oil reaches 350°F/i77°C, pan fry the
chicken in batches until golden brown on both sides,
about 15 minutes.
5 . Finish the chicken on a roasting rack placed over a
sheet pan in a 350°F/i77°C oven until it reaches an
internal temperature of i8o°F/82°C.
6 . Drain the chicken briefly on paper towels and serve
immediately with the country gravy or hold hot for
service.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Country Gravy
Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL
3 o z/8 5 g minced slab bacon, rind removed
2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter
8 o z/2 2 7 g minced onion
2 o z/5 7 g minced celery
I /2 ts p /4 .5 0 g minced garlic
21/ o z/71 g all-purpose flour
I /2 q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 lb /4 5 4 g chicken wings, browned
1 bay leaf
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL heavy cream
1 . Render the bacon in the butter over medium-low
heat until crisp, about 8 minutes.
2 . Add the onions, celery, and garlic and sweat until the
onions are translucent, 4 to 6 minutes.
3 . Stir in the flour and cook over medium heat to make
a pale roux.
4 . Add the stock, wings, and bay leaf. Season with salt
and pepper.
5 . Simmer the gravy until good flavor and consistency
develop, 1V2 to 2 hours, skimming as necessary. Add
the cream and return the gravy to a simmer.
6 . Strain the gravy. Adjust seasoning with salt and
pepper.
7 . The gravy is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly
cooled and refrigerated for later use.
B utterm ilk Fried Chicken w ith Country Gravy, Whipped
Potatoes (page 735), and Braised Collards (page 710)
Pan-Fried Veal Cutlets
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg boneless veal top round,
cut into ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g portions
1 ts p /3 g salt
V i tsp /1 g ground black pepper
5 o z/1 4 2 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023), or as needed
12 o z/3 4 0 g dried bread crumbs, or as needed
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL vegetable oil or clarified
butter or lard, or as needed
1 . Pound each portion of veal between sheets of parch­
ment paper or plastic wrap to a thickness of V4 in/
6 mm.
2 . At the time of service or up to 25 minutes in ad­
vance, apply a standard breading: Blot the veal dry,
season with salt and pepper, dredge in flour, dip in
egg wash, and roll in bread crumbs. (Refrigerate on a
wire rack over a sheet pan if breaded in advance.)
3 . Heat about Vs in/3 mm ° f fat t0 about 35o°F/i77°C in
a large sautoir, griswold, or saute pan over medium
heat. Working in batches, add the breaded veal to the
hot oil and pan fry on the presentation side for about
2 minutes, or until golden brown and crisp. Turn
once and finish pan frying on the second side until it
reaches an internal temperature of i6o°F/7i°C, 1 to 2
minutes more.
4 . Drain the veal briefly on paper towels and serve im­
mediately or hold hot for service.
W iener S chnitzel: Prepare and cook the cutlets as directed
above. Heat 4 o z /1 13 g b u tte r in a'large saute pan,
sautoir, org risw o ld until it sizzles, a b o u t2 minutes. Add
the pan-fried veal to the hot bu tte r and turn to coat on
both sides. Serve at once on heated plates w ith lemon
wedges or slices and parsley sprigs.
Pan-Fried Breaded Pork C u tlet: S ubstitute an equal
amount o f boneless pork loin fo r the veal. Prepare the
cutlets as directed above.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Veal Cordon Bleu
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg boneless veal top round,
cut into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g portions
1 ts p /3 g salt
V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
5 o z/1 4 2 g thinly sliced ham
5 o z/1 4 2 g thinly sliced Gruyere
5 o z/1 4 2 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023), or as needed
8 o z/2 2 7 g fresh bread crumbs, or as needed
2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL vegetable oil or clarified
butter or lard, or as needed
2 0 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Mushroom Sauce
(page 440), or as needed
1 . Pound each portion of veal between sheets of parch­
ment paper or plastic wrap to a thickness of % in/6
mm. Blot dry and season with salt and pepper.
2 .. Top each scaloppine with V2 oz/14 g each of the ham
and cheese. Roll the veal around the ham and cheese
to form a half-moon shape. Carefully pound the
open ends between parchment paper or plastic wrap
to seal the cordon bleu.
3 . At the time of service or up to 25 minutes in ad­
vance, apply a standard breading to the veal: Dredge
the veal in flour, dip in egg wash, and roll in bread
crumbs. (Refrigerate on a wire rack over a sheet pan
if breaded in advance.)
4 . Heat about V2 in/i cm oil to about 35o°F/i77°C in a
large sautoir, griswold, or saute pan over medium
heat. Add the veal to the hot oil and pan fry on the
presentation side for 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden
brown and crisp. Turn once, and finish pan frying on
the second side until it reaches an internal tempera­
ture of i6o°F/7i°C, about 2 minutes more. (Optional:
Finish cooking in a 350°F/i77°C oven, if preferred.)
5 . Drain briefly on paper towels and serve immediately
with the mushroom sauce or hold hot for service.
 sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
Veal Piceata with Milanese Sauce
Makes 32 fl 0 Z/960 mL
Milanese Sauce
3 fl o z/ 90 mL clarified butter
(Piccata di Vitello alia 4 o z/1 1 3 g white mushrooms, cut into julienne

Milanese) 2 o z/5 7 g minced shallot

12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL dry red wine

Makes 10 servings
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL Tomato Sauce (page 295)
3 lb 12 o z/1 .7 0 kg boneless veal top round,
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Jus de Veau Lie (page 293)
cut into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g portions
4 o z/1 1 3 g ham, cut into julienne
4 eggs, beaten
2 o z/5 7 g beef tongue, cut into julienne
2 o z/5 7 g grated Parmesan
4 ts p /4 g chopped parsley
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
Salt, as needed
1 ts p /3 g salt
Ground black pepper, as needed
V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper

6 o z/1 7 0 g all-purpose flour, or as needed

1 . Heat the butter in a large saucepan over medium
20 fI o z /6 0 0 mL Milanese Sauce (recipe follows)
heat. Add the mushrooms and shallots and saute
until the shallots are just translucent, 1 to 2 minutes.
1 . Pound each portion of veal between sheets of parch­ 2 . Add the wine and reduce until almost dry. Add the
ment paper or plastic wrap to a thickness of % in/ tomato sauce and jus lie. Simmer until the sauce has
6 mm. reduced by about one-quarter to one-half, depending
2 . Combine the eggs and Parmesan in a bowl, mix well, on desired consistency.
and reserve. 3 . Add the ham, tongue, and parsley and simmer un­
3 . Heat about V2 in/i cm oil in a large sautoir, griswold, til all the ingredients are hot. Season with salt and
or saute pan to about 350°F/i77°C over medium pepper.
heat. 4 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly
4 . Blot the veal dry, season with salt and pepper, dredge cooled and refrigerated for later use.
in flour, dip in the egg mixture, and dredge again in
flour. Add the veal to the hot oil and pan fry on the
presentation side for about 2 minutes. When golden
brown and crisp, turn once, and finish pan frying on
second side until it reaches an internal temperature
of i6 o cF/7i°C, 2 minutes more.
5 . Drain briefly on paper towels and serve immediately
with the Milanese sauce or hold hot for service.

NOTE: Do not place the veal in the egg mixture if not cooking
immediately, as the ba tte r w ill run o ff the veal and it will
need to be dipped again before frying.

c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING 519

 Fisherman's Platter Remoulade Sauce
Makes 10 servings Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g flounder fillets, cut 28 f I o z/8 4 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)

into l-o z/28-g g o u jo n ettes
2 o z/5 7 g chopped drained capers
20 littleneck clams, shucked
3 tb sp /9 g minced chives
20 oysters, shucked
3 tb sp /9 g chopped tarragon
20 shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count), peeled and deveined
1 tb sp /1 5 mL Dijon mustard
10 o z/2 8 4 g sea scallops, muscle tabs removed
1 ts p /5 mL anchovy paste
2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed
Salt, as needed
1 ts p /3 g salt
Ground black pepper, as needed
V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
Worcestershire sauce, as needed
5 o z/1 4 2 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
Tabasco sauce, as needed
6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023), or as needed
Combine all the ingredients and mix well. Adjust
12 o z/3 4 0 g dried bread crumbs, or as needed
seasoning with salt, pepper, Worcestershire, and
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed Tabasco. The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be
20 fI o z/6 0 0 mL Remoulade Sauce (recipe follows) refrigerated for later use.

1 . At the time of service or up to 25 minutes in ad­

vance, blot dry the fish, clams, oysters, shrimp, and
scallops and season with lemon juice, salt, and pep­
per. Apply a standard breading: Dredge each piece
in flour, dip in egg wash, and roll in bread crumbs.
(Refrigerate if breaded in advance.)
2.. Heat about V2 in/i cm oil to about 350°F/i77°C in a
large sautoir, saute pan, or griswold over medium
heat. Add the fish and seafood to the hot oil and pan
fry on the presentation side until golden brown and
crisp, about 2 minutes. Turn once and finish pan fry­
ing on the second side until each variety reaches an
internal temperature of 145°F/63°C, 1 to 2 minutes
more. (Finish cooking in a 350°F/i77°C oven once
the crust is properly browned, if preferred.)
3 . Drain the fish and seafood briefly on paper towels
and serve immediately. Serve 2 goujonettes, 2 clams,
2 oysters, 2 shrimp, and 1 scallop per serving with 2
fl oz/6o mL remoulade sauce.

520 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
Old-Fashioned Salt 6 . Combine the potatoes with the salt cod. There
should still be small flakes of the cod visible
Cod Cakes throughout the potato mixture.
Makes 10 servings 7 . Combine the eggs, mustard, Worcestershire sauce,
parsley, and chilled onions and garlic with the cod
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g salt cod fillets
mixture and season with the salt and pepper. Chill
2 q t/1 .92 L water thoroughly.
1 q t/9 6 0 mL milk 8 . Portion the cod mixture into 3-oz/85-g cakes ap­
3 lb /1.36 kg russet potatoes proximately 2V2 in/6 cm in diameter and 1 in/3 cm
thick.
12 o z/3 4 0 g minced onion
9 . Lightly coat the cakes in the panko. Wrap a piece
4 ts p /1 2 g minced garlic
of bacon around the outside of each cod cake and
2 o z/5 7 g butter secure the bacon with a toothpick. Refrigerate the
3 eggs assembled cod cakes for 30 minutes prior to pan
frying.
4'/2 ts p /2 2 .5 0 mL mustard

4'/2 ts p /2 2 .5 0 mL Worcestershire sauce

10 . Heat about 4 fl oz/120 mL of the oil in a large sau­
toir over medium-high heat until it shimmers but
V i o z/1 4 g chopped parsley
is not smoking. Pan fry the cod cakes until golden
2 ts p /6.50 g salt brown, crisp, and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes
V i tsp /1 g ground black pepper per side. Add clean oil to the pan when necessary.

3 o z /8 5 g p a n k o 11 . Drain on paper towels and serve immediately or

hold hot for service.
1 lb /4 5 4 g thinly sliced slab bacon, rind removed

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed

1 . Rinse the salt cod in several changes of water. Soak

overnight, refrigerated, in the fresh water.
2 .. The next day, remove the salt cod from the water,
cut into large chunks, and simmer in the milk over
medium low heat for about 15 minutes.
3 . Discard the milk and rinse the salt cod under cold
water. Taste the cod; it should not be salty. If it
is still salty, repeat as necessary with fresh milk.
Remove and discard any bones or skin and shred
or chop the cod into fine pieces. Refrigerate until
thoroughly chilled.
4 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into large pieces.
Cook the potatoes by boiling or steaming until
tender enough to mash easily. Drain and dry them
over low heat or on a sheet pan in a 3oo°F/i49°C
oven until no more steam rises from them. While
the potatoes are still hot, puree them through a
food mill or potato ricer into a heated bowl.
5 . While the potatoes are cooking, sweat the onions
and garlic in the butter in a medium saute pan over
medium heat until translucent, 3 to 4 minutes.
Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.

c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING 521

Pan-Fried BrookTrout Flounder a 1'Orly
Makes 10 servings
with Bacon
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 12 o z/1 .7 0 kg flounder fillet, cut
15 slices bacon into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g portions

10 brook trout (6 to 10 o z/1 7 0 to 2 8 4 g 2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice

each), pan dressed and boned
1 ts p /3 g salt
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
All-purpose flour, as needed
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL buttermilk, or as needed
22 f I o z/6 6 0 mL Beer Batter (recipe follows)
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Tomato Sauce (page 295)
8 o z/2 2 7 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
20 parsley sprigs
2 lemons, cut into wedges
10 lemon wedges

1 . Lay the bacon in a single layer on parchment paper

1 . Heat the oil to 350°F/i77°C in a deep fryer or tall
on a sheet pan. Cook in a 375°F/i9i°C oven until
pot.
crisp, about 15 minutes. Cut each slice in half cross­
wise and reserve. 2 . At the time of service, blot the fish dry and season
with lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Dip in flour,
2 . Season the interior of each trout with salt and pep­
shake off any excess, then dip into the beer batter.
per. Lay in a hotel pan and pour over the buttermilk.
Place the flounder into the oil, and deep fry until
3 . Heat the oil in a large cast-iron skillet or saute pan golden brown and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes.
over medium-high heat until it shimmers but is not
3 . Drain briefly on paper towels and serve immediately
smoking. Lightly dredge the trout in flour and shake
with 2 fl oz/6o mL of tomato sauce, 2 parsley sprigs,
off excess.
and 1 lemon wedge.
4 . Pan fry the trout until cooked through, 4 to 5 min­
utes per side; lower the heat as needed to avoid
scorching. Beer Batter
5 . Drain briefly on paper towels. Makes 22 fl oz/6o mL

6 . Lay 3 slices of bacon on top of each trout and serve

10 o z/2 8 4 g all-purpose flour
immediately with a lemon wedge, or hold hot for
service. '/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g baking powder

1 ts p /3 g salt

1 egg, separated

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL beer

1 . Whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt.

Add the egg yolk and the beer all at once, and whisk
until very smooth. Keep chilled until service.
2 . At the time of service, whip the reserved egg white
to soft peaks. Fold the white into the batter and use
at once.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
ShrimpTempura Tempura Dipping Sauce
Makes 10 servings Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL

3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg shrimp (1 6 /2 0 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL light soy sauce

count), peeled and deveined
8 fI o z/2 4 0 mL Ichi Ban Dashi (page 266)
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL vegetable oil
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL mirin
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL peanut oil
5 o z/1 4 2 g finely grated daikon
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL sesame oil
1 tb sp /9 g finely grated ginger
TEMPURA BATTER

3 eggs, beaten Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan and warm

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL water slightly over low heat. The sauce is ready to serve
now, or may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for
8 o z/2 2 7 g crushed ice
later use.
13 o z/3 6 9 g all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging

20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Tempura Dipping

Sauce (recipe follows)

1 . If desired, make a couple of incisions on the stomach

side of each shrimp so that it stays straight. Refriger­
ate until service.
2 . Combine the vegetable, peanut, and sesame oils in a
heavy deep pot or fryer. Heat to 350°F/i77°C.
3 . To make the batter, combine the eggs, water, and ice.
Add the flour and mix gently. Do not overmix.
4 . Lightly dredge the shrimp in flour. Pick up the
shrimp by their tails and dip the bodies only in the
batter to coat lightly. Immediately deep fry until
crisp and white or light golden brown.
5 . Drain the shrimp on paper towels and serve immedi­
ately with the dipping sauce.

chapter 18 » S A U T E I N G , PAN FR Y IN G , A N D D E E P FR Y IN G 523

 Crispy Tangerine- 5 . At service, heat the peanut oil in a wok over medi-
um-high heat. Add the ginger, garlic, green onions,
Flavored Chicken tangerine skin, and chiles and stir-fry until aromatic,
15 to 30 seconds.
Makes 10 servings
6 . Add the mushrooms and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add
MARINADE the red peppers and stir-fry 1 to 2 minutes. Add the

2 tb sp /3 0 mL light soy sauce

broccoli and stir-fry 1 to 2 minutes.

l '/ 2 ts p /4.50 g minced garlic

7 . Add the fried chicken and stir-fry to reheat, 1 to 2
minutes.
1 ts p /3 g salt
8 . Slowly add the sweet garlic sauce, stirring constantly
2 ts p /4 g ground white pepper
to coat the chicken and vegetables in the sauce.

2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless, skinless chicken

9 . Serve immediately.
thighs, cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes

1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed

Sweet Garlic Sauce
COATING Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL
1 egg, beaten
2 /2 f I o z/7 5 mL vegetable oil
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL water
2 ts p /6 g minced ginger
6 o z/1 7 0 g cornstarch
1 o z/2 8 g minced garlic

2 f I o z/6 0 mL peanut oil V A o z/3 5 g minced green onion, green and white parts

1 tb sp /9 g minced ginger 2 ts p /1 0 mL hot bean paste

1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic 6 fl o z/4 8 0 mL light soy sauce

'/2o z/1 4 g thinly sliced green onion, 2'/2 fl o z/7 5 mL Shaoxing wine
green and white parts
2'/2 fl o z/7 5 mL rice wine vinegar
'/2 o z/1 4 g dried tangerine skin, rehydrated and minced
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
2 ts p /7 g chopped dried red chiles
5'/2 o z/1 5 6 g sugar
8 o z/2 2 7 g white mushrooms, quartered
2 ts p /1 0 mL sesame oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g red pepper, cut into l-in /3 -c m squares
2'/2 o z/7 1 g cornstarch, mixed with
8 o z/2 2 7 g broccoli florets, blanched water to make a slurry

14 fI o z/4 2 0 mL Sweet Garlic Sauce (recipe follows)

1 . Combine the soy sauce, garlic, salt, and pepper. Pour
the marinade over the chicken and refrigerate for 20
minutes.
2 . Heat the vegetable oil to 350°F/i77°C in a heavy,
deep pot.
3 . To make the coating, mix the egg, water, and corn­
starch to a smooth paste. Drain the chicken and
combine it with the coating.
4 . Deep-fry the chicken until golden brown, crisp, and
cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain briefly on pa­
per towels and reserve warm.
1 . Heat the oil in a wok over medium-high heat. Add
the ginger, garlic, and green onions and stir-fry until
aromatic, 15 to 30 seconds.
2 . Add the bean paste and stir-fry for 15 to 30 seconds
more.
3 . Add the soy sauce, rice wine, vinegar, and stock and
bring the mixture to a boil.
4 . Stir in the sugar and sesame oil and return to a boil.
5 . Gradually add the cornstarch slurry to the sauce un­
til it becomes medium thick.
6 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly
cooled and refrigerated for later use.

524 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
Grandmother's Bean Hanoi Fried Fish with
Curd (Ma Po Dofu) Dill (Cha Co Thong
Makes 10 servings
Long)
Vegetable oil as needed Makes 10 servings
2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg firm bean curd, cut
into V H n /l-c m -th ic k triangles 4 o z /1 1 3 g ric e flo u r

4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL peanut oil 2 ts p /4 g ground turmeric

1 tb sp /9 g minced ginger 1 tb s p /lO g s a lt

1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic 1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil

1 tb sp /11 g green onion, green and 3 lb /1.36 kg catfish fillet, cut into 2-in/5-cm squares
white parts, thinly sliced
2 tb s p /3 0 mL peanut oil
3 tb sp /71 g hot bean paste
4 o z/1 1 3 g green onion, green and
3 tb sp /71 g Chinese black bean sauce white portions, cut into julienne

1 tb sp /6 g Korean chili powder 30 Thai basil leaves, halved lengthwise

10 o z/2 8 4 g shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced 60 cilantro leaves

8 o z/2 2 7 g snow peas, strings removed, 60 dill sprigs, stemmed

cut in half on the diagonal
1 lb /4 5 4 g rice noodle vermicelli, cooked
8 o z/2 2 7 g red pepper, cut into batonnet
2 'A o z/7 1 g pan-roasted peanuts
8 o z/2 2 7 g bean sprouts
16 f I o z /4 8 0 mL Vietnamese
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetarian oyster sauce Dipping Sauce (page 9 5 6)

2 tb sp /3 0 mL dark sesame oil

2 tb sp /6 g minced cilantro
1 . Combine the rice flour, turmeric, and salt in a large
bowl. Heat the vegetable oil to 375°F/igi°C.
1 ts p /3 g salt
2 . Toss the fish in the flour mixture, shake off excess,
V 2 tsp /1 g ground white pepper
and immediately deep fry until golden and crisp, 2 to
1 ts p /2 g ground Szechuan peppercorns 3 minutes. Drain on paper towels and reserve warm.
3 . Heat the peanut oil in a wok. Stir-fry the green on­
1 . Heat the oil to 35o°F/i76°C in a heavy pot. Working ions for about 5 seconds. Add the basil, cilantro, and
in batches if necessary, deep fry the bean curd until dill and stir-fry just until the herbs wilt, 30 to 45 sec­
golden brown, about 5 minutes. Drain well on paper onds. Remove immediately.
towels and reserve.
4 . Serve the fish on a bed of the noodles topped with
2 . Heat the peanut oil in a wok. Add the ginger, garlic, the herb mixture. Garnish with the peanuts and
and green onions and stir-fry until aromatic, about serve with Vietnamese dipping sauce.
1 minute. Add the bean paste, black bean sauce,
and chili powder and stir-fry 1 minute more. Add
the mushrooms, snow peas, red peppers, and bean
sprouts and stir-fry until the vegetables are tender, 6
to 8 minutes.
3 . Add the bean curd, oyster sauce, sesame oil, cilantro,
salt, and pepper. Stir-fry to heat through, about 3
minutes. Finish with the ground peppercorns.

NOTE: For a traditional Ma Po Dofu, add 1 lb /4 54 g cooked

ground beef to the wok w ith the bean curd in step 3.

Chapter 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING 527

Fried Fish Cakes Chiles Rellenos con
Makes 10 servings
Picadillo Oaxaqueno
10 Thai chiles Makes 10 servings
l '/2 o z/4 3 g shallots
PICADILLO OAXAQUENO
2 garlic cloves
2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless pork shoulder,
V i o z/1 4 g cilantro root or stems
cut into 2-in /5-cm cubes
1 tb sp /9 g minced galangal
5 o z/1 4 2 g medium-dice white onion
3 kaffir lime leaves
2 ts p /6 g roughly chopped garlic
1 ts p /3 g salt
I / 2 tb sp /1 5 g salt, plus more as needed
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g white-fleshed fish fillets, minced
3 tb s p /4 5 mL canola oil
2 tb sp /3 0 mL fish sauce
14 o z/3 9 7 g diced white onion
4 o z/1 1 3 g long beans, sliced into paper-thin rounds
2 tb s p /1 8 g minced garlic
1 q t/9 6 0 mL peanut oil
2 lb /9 0 7 g plum tomatoes, diced
2 0 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Cucumber Salad (page 922)
2 tb sp /2 0 g raisins, chopped

2 ts p /8 g drained capers, chopped

1 . Grind the chiles, shallots, garlic, cilantro, galangal,
lime leaves, and salt to a paste in a food processor. 2 o z/5 7 g pitted green olives

2 . Combine the spice paste, fish, fish sauce, and beans 2 tb s p /2 5 g chopped almonds

and knead until well combined and the consistency 2 o z/5 7 g parsley
is slightly tacky. V* ts p /0 .5 0 g cloves
3 . Shape into 2 1/ 2 -o z lr/ i- g round, flat pucks. Refrigerate V* ts p /0 .5 0 g black peppercorns
until ready to cook.
1 ts p /2 g Mexican cinnamon
4 . Heat the oil to 350°F/i77°C in a deep fryer or tall
2 ts p /1 0 mL white vinegar
pot. Deep fry the cakes until golden brown on the
outside and they float to the top of the oil, about 3 2 ts p /1 0 g s u g a r

minutes.
CALDILLO
5 . Drain on paper towels and serve immediately with 2 lb /9 0 7 g plum tomatoes
the cucumber salad, or hold hot for service.
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL water

4 o z/1 1 3 g diced white onion

1 ts p /3 g minced garlic

r /2 tb sp /2 2.50 mL canola oil

2 bay leaves

2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt

CHILES RELLENOS

2 lb /9 0 7 g poblanos

3 /2 o z/9 9 g all-purpose flour

5 eggs, separated

Salt, as needed

2 q t/1 .9 2 L vegetable oil

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

 sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
1 . To make the picadillo, in a large pot combine the 1 2 . Lightly beat the egg yolks, just to combine. Whip
pork, medium-dice onion, and chopped garlic. the egg whites to stiff peaks in an electric mixer.
Cover with water and season with salt as needed. Fold the remaining V2 oz/14 g flour into the egg
Bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to yolks and season with salt. Lighten the mixture by
low and simmer until the meat is tender, about 1V2 folding one-third of the beaten egg whites into the
hours. yolks. Fold in the remaining egg whites.
2 . Drain the pork and discard the broth, onion, and 1 3 . Heat the vegetable oil to 350°F/i77°C in a heavy
garlic. Allow the pork to cool. Use your fingers or pot. One at a time, dip the chiles into the egg mix­
two forks to shred the pork. ture and fry until golden brown. Drain on paper
3 . Heat the oil in a medium rondeau over medium towels and keep warm.
heat. Saute the diced onions until tender, 3 to 4 1 4 . Serve the chile rellenos with the caldillo sauce.
minutes. Add the garlic and saute until aromatic,
about 1 minute more. Add the tomatoes and saute
until cooked through, stirring occasionally, 8 to
10 minutes. Stir in the raisins, capers, olives, al­
monds, and parsley.
4 . In a spice grinder, grind the cloves, peppercorns,
and cinnamon. Stir into the tomato mixture. Re­
duce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes.
5 . Remove from the heat and stir in the pork, vinegar,
sugar, and 1V2 tbsp/15 g salt. Mix well. Allow the
picadillo to cool completely before stuffing the
chiles.
6 . To make the caldillo, place the tomatoes in a me­
dium stockpot. Add the water and bring to a boil.
Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until
the tomatoes are fully cooked, 10 to 12 minutes.
7 . Drain the tomatoes and reserve the cooking liquid.
Puree the tomatoes with the onion and garlic in a
food processor or blender to make a smooth sauce.
8 . Heat the oil in a large pot and cook the tomato
sauce, stirring frequently, until it deepens in color
and turns a rust-red color. Add the bay leaves and
enough cooking liquid to create the desired sauce
consistency. Simmer the sauce over low heat for 30
minutes.
9 . Remove the bay leaves and season with salt. The
caldillo is ready to use now or may be cooled rap­
idly and refrigerated for later use.
10 . To make the chiles rellenos, stuff the poblanos
with the picadillo, taking care not to overstuff.
Close the seam of the chiles around the filling.
1 1 . Dredge the stuffed chiles in 3 oz/85 g of the flour,
shaking off any excess.

c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING 529

 Tinga Poblano 7 . Saute the diced onion in the reserved fat over
medium-high heat until just turning brown, about
Makes 10 servings
5 minutes. Add the pork and saute until golden and
3 lb /1.36 kg boneless pork shoulder, slightly crisp, about 6 minutes. Add the tomatoes
cut into 2-in /5-cm cubes and cook to heat through, about 3 minutes. Add the
V/ 2 medium white onions, peeled potatoes, chorizo, chipotles, vinegar, 1 tbsp/10 g salt,
and the sugar and heat through. Taste and add more
2 garlic cloves
chipotles if the tinga is not spicy enough.
V A tb s p /1 5 g salt, or as needed
8 . Garnish the tinga with avocado and onion slices.
12 o z/3 4 0 g red-skin potatoes, peeled

2 f I o z/6 0 mL canola oil NOTE: The tinga poblano can be served with boiled rice or
black beans and tortillas.
12 o z/3 4 0 g Mexican chorizo

V / 2 white onions, finely diced

2 lb /9 0 7 g plum tomatoes, diced

8 canned chipotles in adobo sauce,

cut into '/4-in/6-m m strips

4'/2 ts p /2 2 .5 0 mL apple cider vinegar

1 tb s p /1 5 g sugar

2 avocados, pitted, peeled, and thinly sliced

V 2 white onion, very thinly sliced

1 . Place the pork in a i2-in/30-cm sautoir and cover

with water. Bring just to a boil, drain, and discard
the water.
2 . Return the pork to the pot. Add the whole onion,
garlic, and water to cover. Season with 1V2 tsp/5 g
salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer
and cook until the pork is tender, about 45 minutes.
3 . Drain the pork and discard the broth, onion, and
garlic. Allow the pork to cool. Use your fingers or
two forks to finely shred the pork. Reserve.
4 . Boil the potatoes in salted water until cooked al
dente, about 15 minutes.
5 . Drain the potatoes and allow to cool. Cut into me­
dium dice and reserve.
6 . Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium heat
and fry the chorizo until cooked through, 5 to 7 min­
utes. Drain off the excess fat and reserve the chorizo.

530 M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

teaming ar
ubmersion
Moist-heat techniques— steaming, cooking foods en papillote, shallow poaching,
deep poaching, and simmering— rely on liquid and/or water vapor as the
cooking medium. Monitoring cooking temperatures and times vigilantly and
determining doneness accurately are key to a mastery of moist-heat methods.
 C o o ked s u r r o u n d ed by w ater va po r in a c l o s e d c o o k i n g v e s s e l , st ea m e d fo o d s have c le a n ,

CLEAR FLAVORS. S T E A M CIRCULATING AROUND THE FOOD PROVIDES AN EVEN, MOIST ENVIRONMENT.

S team in g is a n efficient an d highly effectiv e w a y to pr epare n a t u r a lly ten d er fish and

po u ltr y .P r o per ly st ea m e d fo o ds a re p l u m p , moist ,an d t e n d e r ;t h e y g e n e r a l l y do not lose

m uch o ft h e ir original v o l u m e .

steaming
They o fte n re ta in m ore in trin s ic fla v o r than fo o d s cooked by o th e r m ethods because the
cooking m edium does not ge ne rally im p a rt much fla v o r o f its own. Colors also stay true.
The be st fo o d s fo r stea m ing are n a turally te n d e r and o f a size and shape th a t allow
them to cook in a s h o rt am ount o f tim e. Cut fo o d in to the a p p ro p ria te size, if necessary.
Fish is ge ne rally cooked as fille ts , though th e re are some ty p ic a l p re se n ta tio n s o f whole
fish . S im ilarly, boneless, skinless p o u ltry bre asts (suprem es) steam well. S he llfish can be
le ft in th e shell, unless o th e rw ise in dica ted; f o r exam ple, scallops are c u sto m a rily rem oved
fro m the shell. Shrim p may also be peeled b e fo re steam ing.
M any d iffe re n t liquids are used fo r steam ing. W ater is com mon, b u t a fla v o rfu l b ro th
or stock, c o u rt bouillon, wine, or beer can also be used, esp ecially if the stea m ing liquid is
served along w ith th e foo d. A dding a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts such as herbs and spices, citru s
zest, lem ongrass, ginger, garlic, and m ushroom s to th e liquid bo osts its fla v o r as w e ll as
th a t o f th e fo o d being steam ed. S om etim es fo o d is steam ed on a bed o f vegetables in a
closed vessel; th e veg etab le s' natural m oistu re becom es p a rt o f the steam bath cooking
the fo o d . Fillings, m arinades, and w ra pp ers can all be used in p re pa ring steam ed foods.
Fish is som e tim es w rapped in th is w ay to keep it e x c e p tio n a lly m oist.
Sm all am ounts o f fo o d can be steam ed using a sm all in sert. Larger q u a n titie s, or fo o d s
th a t req uire d iffe re n t cooking tim es, are b e tte r prepared in a tie re d steam er. It is im p o r­
ta n t to allow enough room fo r steam to circu la te com p le te ly around fo o d s as th e y cook to
encourage even, rapid cooking.
Pressure steam ers, which reach higher te m p e ra tu re s than tie re d steam ers, and con­
vectio n steam ers are good choices fo r stea m ing large q u a n titie s. The ch e f can then p re ­
pare a p p ro p ria te ly sized batches th ro u g h o u t a meal perio d or handle th e m ore intense
demands o f a banquet o r in s titu tio n a l meal situ a tio n .

532 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 tn
r+

B
0 )

basic formula p

Steamed Items Salt and other seasonings 2 to 3 f I oz/60 to 90 mL p

(1 entree portion) for both the main item and prepared sauce QTQ
the steaming liquid
1 portion-size cut (6 to 8 oz/170 to
227 g) meat, poultry, or seafood Additional finishing and
garnishing ingredients
Enough steaming liquid to last
throughout the cooking time

method
at-a-glance
Bring the liquid to a boil. expert tips
2. Add the main item to the
steamer in a single layer on
a rack.
For additional flavor, replace some or all of the water with:

BROTH / F R U IT JUICES, SUCH AS O R ANG E, A P PLE, C R A N B E R R Y / STOCK

3. Cover the steamer.

4. Steam the food to the

correct doneness.
Depending on the desired result, the liquidcanbe
flavored with aromatic vegetables:
5. Serve the food
CAR R OTS / C E LE R Y / O N IO N S
im m ediately w ith the
appropriate sauce and
garnish. Depending on the desired result, the liquidcanbe
flavored with herbs and spices:

BAY LEAF / CHO PPED GA R LIC / CHO PPED P A R S L E Y / CHO PPED T H Y M E / C O R I­

A N D E R SEEDS / CRACKED PE P PE R C O R NS / C U M IN SEED S / GRATED GING ER

ch a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N COOKING 533
 1. bring the liquid and any
a d d itio n a l a ro m a tics to a fu ll b o il in a covered vessel.
Add enough liq u id to th e b o tto m o f the stea m e r to la st
th ro u g h o u t cooking. A dd in g m ore liquid to th e p o t during
coo kin g low ers th e coo kin g te m p e ra tu re and lengthens
th e tim e needed to pre pa re steam ed foo ds. If you m ust
add liquid, pre h e a t it.

m eth o d in d etail
2. place the main item in th e stea m e r
in a single layer. If c oo kin g m ore than one layer o f fo o d at
a tim e , use a tie re d steam er. Foods may be placed on the
rack on p la te s or in shallow dishes to c o lle c t any ju ices
th a t m ig h t escape.
A d ju s t th e heat to m a intain even, m od era te heat. L iq ­
uids do n o t need to be a t a ro llin g b o il in o rd e r to produce
steam . In fa c t, rapid b o ilin g may cause th e liquid to cook
away to o fa s t.
Replace th e lid and steam u n til done. Since stea m ing
is done in a closed coo kin g vessel, it can be m ore d iffic u lt
than o th e r m etho ds to gauge how lo n g fo o d needs to
cook. Recipes may te ll how long to steam fo o d s fo r the
c o rre c t doneness. S till, it is im p o rta n t to s ta r t checking
fo r doneness a t th e e a rlie s t p o in t a t which th e fo o d m ig ht
be done.
R em em ber to t i l t th e lid away fro m you as you open
it so th a t th e stea m w ill sa fe ly v e n t away fro m your face
and hands.

534 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 in

3. cook steamed foods u n til th e y are ju s t

done and serve im m e d ia te ly. S team ed fo o d s can easily
becom e ru b b e ry and dry, so be c a re fu l n o t to overcook
them . Any ju ice s fro m th e fo o d should be nearly colorle ss.
When done, th e fle s h o f fis h and s h e llfis h loses its tra n s -
lucency, ta k in g on a ne arly opaque appearance. The shells
o f m ollusks (m ussels, clam s, and oyste rs) open, th e fle s h
tu rn s opaque, and th e edges curl. C rustaceans (shrim p,
crab, and lo b s te r) have a b rig h t pink or red co lo r when
done. P o u ltry tu rn s opaque, and the fle s h o ffe rs litt le re ­
sistance when pressed w ith a fin g e rtip .
Serve th e fo o d im m e d ia te ly on heated pla te s w ith
an a p p ro p ria te sauce, as desired, o r as in d ica te d by the
recipe. R e m e m b e rth a t stea m e d fo o d con tinu es to cook
a fte r it com es o u t o f th e steam er.
Because no in itia l b ro w n ing o f th e fo o d ta ke s place,
th e fla v o r rem ains d e lica te . Any a ro m a tics a p p ro p ria te to
th e foo d's fla v o r should n o t be so in te nse as to overw helm
th e main item . W hen p ro p e rly done, th e foo d's surface
appears q u ite m o ist. Fish, e sp ecially salmon, should not
have d e p o sits o f w h ite album in on th e fle sh , w hich in ­
dica te s th a t it has been overcooked a n d /o r cooked to o
quickly.

ch a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING 535
In t h is v a r ia t io n of s t e a m in g , w h i c h t r a n s l a t e s l i t e r a l l y a s " i n p a p e r ,” t h e M A I N I T E M A N D

A C C O M P A N Y I N G I N G R E D I E N T S A R E W R A P P E D IN A P A R C H M E N T P A P E R P A C K A G E A N D C O O K E D I N T H E

STEAM PRODUCED BY T H E IR O W N JU IC E S . E n PA PILLO TE IN D IC A T E S A S P E C IF IC P R E P A R A T IO N , BUT

TH ER E ARE S IM IL A R D IS H E S , K N O W N BY R E G IO N A L N A M ES, T H R O U G H O U T TH E W O R LD .

joking en papillot
The classic w ra pp er f o r a dish en p a p illo te is pa rchm e nt paper, b u t the e ffe c t is sim ila r
when alum inum fo il, le ttu ce , plantain, grape o r banana leaves, corn husks, o r sim ila r w ra p ­
pers are used to enclose fo o d s as th e y c oo k— th e w ra p p e r tra p s th e steam driven fro m the
fo o d as it heats up. The dish is o fte n p re sen te d to th e gu e st s till in its wrapper, and when
th e packet is opened, it releases a cloud o f a ro m a tic steam.
Foods prepared en p a p illo te should be cooked u n til ju s t done. This is d iffic u lt to gauge
w ith o u t experience, because you cannot open the package to see or fe e l fo r doneness. If
the fo o d has been cu t to the c o rre c t size or i f it has been p a rtia lly cooked in advance, it
should be done when th e package is very p u ffy and the paper is brown. P e rfo rm in g a fe w
te s t runs o f an en p a p illo te dish w ill help esta blish a re liab le cooking tim e fo r th e dish, p ro ­
vid ed th a t th e in g re d ie n ts are c o n s is te n tly prepared beforehand.
Cooking en pa p illo te , like steam ing, is su ite d to n a tu ra lly te n d e r fo o d s like chicken,
fish , and she llfish . Trim and p o rtio n fo o d as req uire d by th e recipe. It may be m arinate d or
seared as an in itia l step, if a p p ro p ria te . A m arinade can add fla v o r and color; searing helps
to assure th a t th ic k e r cuts cook m ore qu ickly and deepens bo th the fla v o r and color o f the
seared item . Some fo o d s may be fille d or s tu ffe d .
Include veg etab le s f o r m o istu re as w e ll as flavo r, color, and te x tu re . Cut th e vegetables
sm all, usually in to th in slices, a fin e julienne, o r tin y dice, and sw e at o r blanch them , if nec­
essary, to ensure th a t th e y w ill be fu lly cooked. Leave herbs in sprigs, cu t the m in to a c h if­
fonade, or mince them . A lso have available a prepared sauce, reduced heavy cream , wine,
or citru s ju ice s as req uire d by the recipe.
To cook en p a p illo te , you w ill need parchm ent paper (or o th e r w ra pp ers as required
by the recipe), sizzler p la tte rs o r baking sheets, and service item s. Cut the w ra pp er large
enough to allow th e fo o d and any a d d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts to f i t c o m fo rta b ly w ith o u t over­
crow ding.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H


Q basic formula
Cooking en Papillote
(1 entree portion)
1 portion (4 to 6 oz/113 to 170 g)
prepared meat, poultry, or seafood
Up to 2 tbsp/30 mL of a
cooking liquid (stock, sauce,
wine) or enough naturally moist
vegetables to produce steam
cooking en papillote
Salt and other seasonings
Additional finishing and garnishing
ingredients, as desired

method
at-a-glance
Cut parchment paper expert tips
into a heart shape o f the
appropriate size and bu tter
or oil it. To develop additional flavor, choose well-seasoned liquids
to produce the steam that will cook the main item:
2. Place a bed o f aromatics,
vegetables, or sauce on one STOCK / BROTH / W IN E / SAUCES

half o f the paper, then top

the bed w ith main item. Additional ingredients may be added to develop more flavor.
3. Fold the paper in half; fold Adding them directly into the packages will infuse flavor throughout the cook­

and crimp the edges. ing process. Certain ingredients, such as moist vegetables, can also create
additional steam:
4. Place the paper packet on a
hot sizzler platter. M IR E P O IX / VEG E TAB LE S / FRESH HERBS

5. Bake the packet until it is

puffed and browned.

6. Plate the packet and serve

it immediately.

c h a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING 537
 1. assemble the packages, cut the
p a rchm e nt or o th e r w ra p p e r in to h e a rt o r o th e r shapes
large enough to hold th e fo o d on one h a lf w ith a l- in /3 - c m
m argin o f paper all th e w ay around.
L ig h tly o il or b u tte r th e w ra p p e r on both sides to
p re ve n t it fro m burning. Arrange a bed o f vegetables, a ro ­
m atics, or sauce on one h a lf o f the w ra p p e r and to p it w ith
th e main item .

m eth o d in d etail
2. fold over the other half, then
crim p th e edges o f th e paper or fo il, or tie th e pa cket se­
cu re ly to seal it. Sealing th e edges o f th e package keeps
in th e steam so th a t it can p ro p e rly cook th e food.

538 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

 cooking en papillote
3. place the package on a sizzler
p la tte r o r baking she et and bake in a m edium oven u n til
th e package is p u ffe d and th e paper is brow ned. C a re fu lly
m o n ito r th e oven te m p e ra tu re , because d e lic a te fo o d s
such as fis h f ille t s can ove rcoo k quickly.
As th e package cools, it w ill begin to d e fla te , so serve
en p a p illo te dishes as soon as possible. For a d ra m a tic
p re se n ta tio n , have th e se rve r cu t open th e package in
fr o n t o f th e guest.
M eats, fish , and p o u ltry pre pa red en p a p illo te or
by s im ila r tech niq ue s should be cooked acco rding to
doneness stan dard s f o r th e kitch e n o r to gu est p re fe r­
ence (see T em peratures and D e scrip tio n s o f Degrees o f
Doneness, page 36 7). Sauces, coo kin g liquids, and o th e r
in g re d ie n ts should also have a fu ll fla v o r and be p ro p e rly
cooked.

Chapter 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING 539

 S h a l l o w P O A C H I N G , L I K E S A U T E I N G A N D G R I L L I N G , IS A N A L A M I N U T E T E C H N I Q . U E . F O O D S A R E C O O K E D

IN A C O M B IN A T IO N OF STEAM AND S IM M E R IN G LIQ.UID. S h A L L O W P O A C H E D FO O D S ARE P A RTIALLY

S U B M E R G E D IN L I Q . U I D , W H I C H O F T E N C O N T A I N S A N A C I D ( w i N E O R L E M O N J U I C E ) . A R O M A T I C S , S U C H

A S S H A L L O T S A N D H E R B S , A R E A D D E D F O R M O R E F L A V O R . C O V E R T H E PA N T O C A P T U R E S O M E O F T H E

S T E A M R E L E A S E D B Y T H E LIQ.U ID D U R I N G C O O K I N G .

shallow poaching
A s ig n ific a n t am ount o f fla v o r is tra n s fe rre d fro m the fo o d to the cooking liquid. For m axi­
mum flavo r, th e cooking liquid (cuisson) is usually reduced and used as th e base fo r a sauce.
The acids give th e sauce a b rig h t, balanced flavo r. B u tte r can be easily e m u lsifie d in the
sauce; beurre blanc is o fte n the sauce o f choice f o r shallow -poached foo ds.
As f o r steam ing, n a tu ra lly te n d e r fo o d s o f a size and shape th a t allow fo r quick cook­
ing w o rk best. Fish, s h e llfish , and chicken bre asts are am ong th e m o st com m on o p tio n s fo r
th is cooking m ethod. Trim th e main ite m as a p p ro p ria te . Remove bones o r skin fro m fis h
to make fille ts o r fro m p o u ltry to make suprem es or boneless, skinless b re a s t po rtion s.
Fish fille ts may be ro lle d o r fo ld e d around a s tu ffin g to fo rm p a u p ie tte s (see page 411),
w ith the bone side o f the fis h show ing on the e xte rio r. Remove sh e llfish fro m th e shell, if
desired.
The poaching liquid c o n trib u te s fla v o r to th e fo o d as w e ll as to th e sauce prepared
fro m it. Choose rich bro th s o r stocks and add wine, vinegar, o r c itru s ju ice as a p pro pria te .
Cut aro m atics fin e or m ince them . O th e r in g re d ie n ts to be served along w ith th e sauce
as a garnish should be cu t n e a tly in to s trip s , dice, julienne, or ch iffo n a d e . These in gre die nts
are o fte n sw eated or parcooked f ir s t to develop the b e st possible fla v o r as w ell as to make
ce rta in th a t all p a rts o f the fin is h e d dish are fu lly cooked a t the same tim e.
The sauce may be a beurre blanc or sauce vin blanc (page 298), or sim p ly th e reduced
cooking liquids. R e fe r to sp e c ific recipes fo r a d d itio n a l suggestions o r guidance.
Use a s a u to ir o r o th e r shallow cooking vessel, such as a h o te l pan, to shallow poach.
S e le ct the pan o r baking dish ca re fu lly; if th e re is to o much or to o little space le ft around
th e fo o d , it may over- or undercook, o r th e re may be to o much o r to o litt le liquid f o r the
sauce. B u tte re d o r oiled pa rchm e nt paper o r a lo o s e -fittin g lid is used to cover th e pan
loosely as th e fo o d cooks. It tra p s enough o f th e steam to cook the unexposed p a rt o f
th e fo o d , b u t n o t so much th a t the cooking speed rises. You may req uire a s tra in e r fo r the
sauce. You w ill also need u te n sils f o r handling th e poached fo o d , such as a s lo tte d spatula,
and heated plates fo r service.

540 M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H


Q basic formula
Shallow Poaching
(1 entree portion)
1 portion (4 to 6 oz/113 to
170 g) boneless, skinless
fish or chicken breast
'I
method
at-a-glance
Heat b u tte r in a sauteuse.
Smother the aromatics in the
pan and make a level bed.
Add the main item and the
poaching liquid.
4. Bring the liquid to a simmer.
5. Cover the sautoir with
parchment paper.
6. Finish the food over direct
heat or in an oven.
7. Remove the main item,
moisten it, and keep it
warm.
Reduce the cuisson and
prepare a sauce as desired.
9. Serve the main item
with the sauce and the
appropriate garnish.
shallow
1 oz/28 g butter Salt and other seasonings for both
the food and the poaching liquid
poaching
V i oz/14 g shallots
Additional finishing
1 fl oz/30 mL white wine and 1 fl ingredients, including prepared
oz/30 mL white stock, according sauce and garnishes
to the portion being cooked
expert tips
To develop additional flavor, choose well-seasoned poach­
ing liquids:
STOCK / BROTH / W IN E / SAUCES
A cuisson can also be used in a way that does not require reduction but
as a broth-type liquid in which to serve the main item. This method is some­
times refered to as "a la nage."
Depending on the desired result, thecookingliquidcan
be used to create a sauce to finish the poached item.
To make a beurre blanc: Reduce the cooking liquid until it is syr­
upy. It may be strained into a separate pot at this point, if desired. With the re­
duced cooking liquid at a simmer, add pieces of cold butter a few at a time. Keep
the pan in motion as you add the butter, swirling it into the sauce as it melts.
To make a sauce vin blanc: Reduce the cooking liquid and add
the desired aromatics and an appropriately flavored veloute. Strain the sauce
if necessary and finish with cream or a liaison and any additional garnishes.
For more inform ation about preparing sauces for shallow-
poached items, refer to specific recipes.
Chapter 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKIN G 541
 1. make sure th e level o f the liquid goes no
higher than o n e -th ird to h a lfw a y up th e fo o d ; generally,
less is req uire d. If to o much liq u id is used, e ith e r a g re a t
deal o f tim e w ill be needed to reduce it p ro p e rly or only
p a rt o f it w ill be usable in th e sauce.
L ig h tly b u tte r a shallow pan and add a ro m a tics to give
th e cooking liquid and fin is h e d sauce a good flavo r. If the
a ro m a tics can cook co m p le te ly in the tim e required, they
can be added raw; o th e rw ise , cook the m sep ara te ly be­
fo re h a n d by sw e a tin g lig h tly in th e b u tte r.
Season and place th e m ain ite m on to p o f the a ro m a t­
ics, the n pour th e liq u id around th e item . It is n o t neces­
sary in m o st cases to pre h e a t th e liquid, though fo r large
q u a n titie s , it may be h e lp fu l to do so. Be ca re fu l n o t to
bring it to a fu ll boil.

2. cover the paupiettes w ith b u tte re d

pa rchm e nt paper (cartouche) b e fo re p u ttin g the m in the
oven. It is b e st to fin is h poaching fo o d s in th e oven be­
cause oven heat is m ore even and g e n tle than d ire c t heat.
It also fre e s b u rne r space f o r o th e r purposes.
B rin g th e liquid u p to poaching te m p e ra tu re (16 0°
to 1 8 0 °F /7 1 ° to 82°C) over d ire c t heat, loosely covered
w ith pa rchm e nt paper, and fin is h in a m od era te oven.
On som e occasions, however, it is p re fe ra b le to p e rfo rm
th e e n tire cooking o p e ra tio n in th e oven. The q u a n tity o f
fo o d pre pa red and th e ava ila ble e q uipm en t w ill d ic ta te
w h a t is m o s t logical. Do n o t allow th e liquid to boil a t any
tim e . A rapid bo il w ill cook th e fo o d to o quickly, a ffe c tin g
th e q u a lity o f th e dish, and may cause all o f the liquid to
eva po rate fro m th e pan, p o ssib ly scorching th e pro te in .

542 M EATS, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

 shallow
3. cook shallow-poached foods
u n til ju s t done. Fish and s h e llfis h should appear opaque
and fe e l s lig h tly firm ; th e fle s h o f o yste rs, clam s, and
m ussels should curl around th e edges. Chicken suprem es

poaching
should appear opaque and o ffe r s lig h t re sista n ce when
pressed w ith a fin g e rtip .
T ransfer th e p a u p ie tte s to a ho ld ing dish and m oisten
w ith a sm all am ount o f th e cooking liquid to keep them
fro m d rying o u t w h ile th e sauce is prepared. Cover the
fo o d tig h tly to hold in th e heat and pre ven t dehydration.
Add the a d d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts f o r th e sauce to th e coo k­
ing liquid as d ire c te d in th e recipe. When w ell prepared,
shallow -poached dishes re fle c t th e fla v o r o f bo th the fo o d
and th e cooking liquid, and th e sauce adds a rich, com ple­
m en ta ry flavo r. In general, fo o d s appear m oist, opaque,
and re la tiv e ly lig h t in color. Fish should n o t have d e p o sits
o f w h ite album in, w hich in dica tes th a t it has been over­
cooked o r cooked to o quickly. P ro p e rly cooked shallow -
poached fo o d s are very te n d e r and e x c e p tio n a lly m oist.
And because th is tech niq ue is m o st o fte n used w ith d e li­
cate foo ds, th e y have an a lm o st fra g ile te x tu re . If th e y are
fa llin g a p a rt o r dry, however, the y have been overcooked.

4. simmer the cooking liquid

(cuisson) over d ire c t heat to c o n c e n tra te th e fla v o r and
th icke n th e liquid. A p re pa red fis h ve lo u te has been added
to th e reduced cuisson here. O th e r o p tio n s include re ­
duced cream, veg e ta b le purees, o r b u tte r.

Chapter 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING 543

 D e e p p o a c h in g a nd s im m e r in g call for fo o d to be c o m p le te ly s u b m e r g ed in a l i q .u i d at a

C O N S T A N T , M O D E R A T E T E M P E R A T U R E . T h e A I M O F D E E P P O A C H I N G A N D S I M M E R I N G I S T H E S A M E — TO

PRODUCE FO OD S TH AT ARE M O IS T A N D E X T R E M E L Y T E NDE R. T h e D IS T IN G U IS H IN G FACTORS BETW EEN

T H E T W O M E T H O D S A R E D I F F E R E N C E S IN C O O K IN G T E M P E R A T U R E A N D A P P R O P R IA T E T Y P E S O F F O O D .

D e e p p o a c h in g is d o n e at a lo w er t e m p e r a tu r e a nd is b etter s u it e d to n a tu r a lly ten d er

CUTS OF MEAT, PO ULTRY, OR FISH .

deep poaching and

simmering
S im m ering occurs at s lig h tly higher te m p e ra tu re , so th a t th e to u g h e r cuts can becom e te n ­
der and m o ist during cooking. Item s to be deep poached should be n a tu ra lly ten der; those
to be sim m ered need not be since the sim m e ring process w ill te n d e rize them . Though
p o rtio n -s iz e cuts are o fte n used— chicken qu arters, fo r exam ple— poached and sim m ered
ite m s also include dressed fish, w hole birds, or large pieces o f meat.
W rap dressed fis h in cheesecloth to p ro te c t it fro m breaking a p a rt during cooking.
S tu ff the p o u ltry, if desired, and tru s s it to help re ta in its shape. S tu ff m eats, i f desired,
and tie them to m aintain th e ir shape.
The liquid used in deep poaching and sim m e ring should be w ell fla vo re d . For m eat and
p o u ltry, se le ct a w ell-d eve lop ed sto ck o f th e a p p ro p ria te flavo r. For fis h and she llfish , use
fis h stock, fu m e t, wine, or a c o u rt bouillon. A ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts such as herbs and spices,
wine, vegetables, veg etab le juices, or c itru s ze st may be added to th e cooking liquid to
enhance th e fla v o r o f th e fin is h e d dish. The arom atics, seasonings, and fla vo rin g s should
e ith e r b o ls te r or com p le m e nt th e fla v o r o f the fo o d in a balanced way. See sp e c ific recipes
f o r in s tru c tio n s on p re pa ring and adding these ingredients.
Deep-poached and sim m ered fo o d s are o fte n served w ith a sauce th a t is prepared
separately. "B o ile d" beef, fo r instance, is tra d itio n a lly served w ith a horseradish sauce, and
poached salmon is o fte n served w ith a w arm b u tte r em ulsion sauce, such as bearnaise or
m ousseline. See sp e c ific recipes fo r sauce suggestions.
The p o t used fo r deep poaching or sim m ering should hold the food, liquid, and arom atics
co m fo rta b ly, w ith enough room to allow the liquid to expand as it heats. There should also be
enough space so th a t the surface can be skim m ed if necessary th ro u g h o u t cooking. A tig h t-
f it tin g lid may be helpful fo r bringing the liquid up to tem pe rature . Leaving a lid on throu gh­
out the cooking process may actually cause the liquid to become h o tte r than desired.
O th er h e lp fu l eq uipm en t includes ladles or skim m ers, holding con tain ers to keep the
fo o d warm , carving boards, and slicers. An in sta n t-re a d th e rm o m e te r is h e lp fu l to m o n ito r
th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e cooking liquid; it can be d iffic u lt to see th e d iffe re n c e betw een a
liquid a t a p e rfe c t poaching te m p e ra tu re and one th a t is a degree o r tw o away fro m a slow
boil. The d iffe re n c e to th e fo o d can be q u ite im p o rta n t.

544 M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H

 deep poaching and sim m ering
B basic formula
Deep Poaching About 10 fl oz/300 mL court Salt and other seasonings for
(1 entree portion) bouillon, stock, or other liquid both the food and the liquid

One portion (6 oz/170 g)

Assorted vegetables Additional ingredients, including
fish, chicken, or meat
prepared sauce and garnishes

method
at-a-glance
Bring the cooking liquid to expert tips
a simmer.

2. Add the main item, using

a rack if necessary. Make
sure the item is fully
submerged.
To develop additional flavor, choose well-seasoned poach­
ing liquids:
STOCK /B R O T H /W I N E

3. Cover the food if directed

by the recipe. Additional ingredients may be added to develop more flavor.
Adding them directly to the poaching liquid will infuse flavor throughout the
4. Finish the food over direct
cooking process.
heat or in an oven.
M IR E P O IX / VEG E TA B LE S / FRESH HERBS
5. Remove the main item,
moisten it, and keep it
warm while preparing a
The poaching liquid can be strained depending on the desired
result.
sauce, or cool it in liquid, as
appropriate.

Chapter 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING 545

 1. lower the food into fumetthat
has been b ro u g h t to the a p p ro p ria te poaching te m p e ra ­
tu re (1 6 0 ° to 1 8 5 ° F /7 1 ° to 85°C). Be sure th a t the pan
is n o t overcrow d ed o r th e fo o d w ill cook unevenly. Some
fo o d s are s ta rte d o f f in cool liquid.
Poaching liquid should be a t 16 0° to 1 8 5 °F /7 1 ° to
85°C. The surface o f th e liquid may show some m otion,
som e tim es called shivering, b u t no a ir bubbles should
break th e surface. S im m e ring liquid w ill have sm all bub­
bles g e n tly b re aking th e surface and should be betw een
1 8 5 ° and 2 0 0 °F /8 5 ° and 93°C. The poaching liquid can be
stra in e d de pe nd ing on th e desired resu lt.

method in detail
2. submerge the food completely
in th e liquid. If a p a rt o f th e fo o d is above th e level o f
th e coo kin g liquid, th e coo kin g w ill be uneven and th e f in ­
ished p ro d u c t w ill n o t have th e p ro p e r d e lica te color. The
fo o d may also look raw w here th e liquid did n o t cover it
co m p le te ly.
M a in ta in th e p ro p e r coo kin g speed th ro u g h o u t the
poaching o r sim m e rin g process u n til th e fo o d is done.
S kim as necessary and ad ju st seasoning th ro u g h o u t the
co o kin g tim e .
If a cover is used, m o n ito r th e cooking te m p e ra tu re
reg ularly. Covering a p o t cre a te s pressure, w hich raises
the te m p e ra tu re o f th e liquid. S e ttin g th e lid s lig h tly ajar
is a good p re ca u tio n to be ce rta in th a t th e liquid does not
in a d v e rte n tly com e to a boil.

546 M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 deep poaching and simm ering
3. poach the food u n til p ro p e rly done. Tests
fo r doneness va ry fro m one fo o d ty p e to another. If a
poached o r sim m e red ite m is to be served cold, it may be
desira ble to s lig h tly un de rcook it. Remove th e p o t fro m
th e heat and le t th e fo o d cool in th e poaching liquid, which
w ill re ta in enough heat to co m p le te th e cooking process.
Cool th e liq u id in an ice w a te r bath to p re ve n t b a c te ria l
g ro w th . Once it has reached room te m p e ra tu re , rem ove
th e fo o d f o r any fu rth e r p re p a ra tio n . The liquid may be
used to poach o r sim m e r o th e r item s.
P ro p e rly deep-poached o r sim m ered p o u ltry and
m eats are fo rk ten der, and any ju ice s fro m p o u ltry are
nearly colorle ss. P o u ltry fle s h ta ke s on an evenly opaque
appearance and o ffe rs litt le re sista n ce when pressed
w ith a fin g e rtip . W hen w hole birds are fu lly cooked, the
legs move ea sily in th e sockets.
When p ro p e rly cooked, th e fle s h o f f is h and sh e llfis h
is s lig h tly firm and has lo s t its transluce ncy, ta k in g on a
ne arly opaque appearance. S h e llfish open and th e edges
o f th e fle s h curl. Shrim p, crab, and lo b s te r have a b rig h t
pink or red color.

c h a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING 547
 sous vide
Though its beginnings are a lm o st 40 years old, the
p o p u la rity and w idesp rea d use o f sous vide has grow n
en orm o usly in re ce n t years in th is c o u n try and abroad.
The French te rm m e a ning"und er vacuum " has m orphed
in to som e th in g th a t encom passes a m odern con cep t and
approach to cooking. It can be sum m arized as the a p p li­
catio n o f h e a t t o a f o o d p r o d u c t t h a t is v acuum -seale d
in a v ir t u a lly -im p e rv io u s -to -a ir p la s t ic ba g and cooked
f o r a r e la tiv e ly long p e r io d o f tim e a t a pre cis e low t e m ­
perature. This c o m b in a tio n o f fa c to rs allow s th e ch e f to
achieve rem a rkab le re su lts th a t can be rep rod uced e f­
fic ie n tly a t a high level o f p re cisio n and accuracy.
BASIC FOOD SCIENCE OF SOUS VIDE
COOKING
L o w -te m p e ra tu re cooking has long been e sta b lish e d as
th e p re fe rre d m ethod f o r to u g h cuts o f m eat w ith large
am ounts o f c onnective tissue . W ith p ro p e r te m p e ra tu re ,
ap plied in a m o is t-h e a t en viro nm en t, all th e fib ro u s t is ­
sue w ill slo w ly d issolve in to g e la tin and c o n trib u te to a
m o ist fin a l pro du ct. This w ould n o rm ally e n ta il cooking
th e p ro d u c t f o r a long perio d o f tim e and su b je ctin g it
to th e degrading e ffe c ts o f o x id a tio n as w e ll as unsafe
m ic ro b io lo g ic a l co n d itio n s. So, ty p ic a lly , th e tra d itio n a l
te m p e ra tu re s em ployed render the p ro d u c t safe but
also d e na tu re th e m uscle fib e rs , causing th e m to in itia lly
toughen and release all th e ir w a te r, and th e re b y p ro d u c­
ing a d ry and fla v o rle s s overcooked p ro d u c t w ith a poor
n u tritio n a l p ro file .
But by p re cise ly c o n tro llin g th e te m p e ra tu re in
the sous vide process, th e tou gh con ne ctive tissu e can
be tra n s fo rm e d , over tim e , in to silky g e la tin w h ile the
m uscle fib e rs are n o t d e na tu red and all th e ir in he rent
ju ices are retaine d. The e n viro n m e n t w ith in th e bag also
e lim in a te s o x id a tio n and p re ven ts any in h e re n t m o istu re
in th e p ro d u c t fro m evaporating.
This ty p e o f te m p e ra tu re c o n tro l can be applied to
red m eats th a t re q u ire va ryin g degrees o f doneness
as w ell. C e rta in p ro te in -te n d e riz in g enzym es, n a tu ra lly
fo u n d in th e tissue , are a c tiv a te d a t th e low sous vide
te m p e ra tu re s and c o n trib u te s u b s ta n tia lly to producing
a m ore te n d e r p ro d u c t even if cooked rare.
The gentle cooking cycle, coupled w ith an equally
gentle cooling phase and pressure created by the vacuum,
ensures th a t any juices, called exudates, are ste a d ily reab­
sorbed in to the product, thus increasing its juiciness.
548 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
The vacuum th a t sous vide p ro d u cts are sub je cte d
to rem oves any re sista n ce th e p ro d u cts have to co u n te r
th e fo rc e s fro m th e a ir around them . This, in e ffe c t, cre ­
ates a pressure on th e e x te rio r o f th e bag and p ro d u ct
th a t n o t only fo rm s th e p ro d u c t in to an a ttra c tiv e shape
b u t encourages it to absorb any a ro m a tics th a t may
be included along w ith it in th e a irtig h t area. This same
vacuum also low ers th e b o ilin g p o in t o f w a te r th a t is
p re s e n t in th e p ro du ct's cells, w hich w ill cause i t to boil
and ru p tu re th e cells i f th e p ro d u c t is to o w arm when
processed. For th is reason, p ro d u cts pre pa red f o r sous
vide m ust be k e p t v e ry cold p rio r to packaging.
The heating hardw are th a t norm ally delivers precise
tem p e ra tu re s to sous vide applications can also be ap­
plied to non-sous vide item s, w ith the in te ntio n o f p ro vid­
ing th a t same precision and stable heat source fo r lo w -
tem p e ra tu re cooking to products th a t are not in bags. An
excellent example o f th is approach is the technique o f
cooking eggs in th e shell w ith a the rm a l circulator, wherein
the coagulation tem pe rature s o f the eggs’ d iffe re n t pro­
tein s can be ta rg e te d and atta in e d to one's liking.
KEY PROCESSES AND BENEFITS OF USE
The basic goal o f any ty p e o f c oo kin g th a t one may em ­
ploy, tra d itio n a l or sous vide, is to m axim ize the org an o­
le p tic q u a litie s (color, ju icin ess, tenderness, flavo r, etc.)
o f th e fin is h e d pro du ct, w h ile g u ara ntee ing its s a fe ty
and s h e lf life . Though tra d itio n a l and sous vide coo k­
ing m etho ds have many th in g s in common, and s im ila r
re s u lts are achievable w ith e ith e r m ethod, sous vide
pro vid es o p p o rtu n itie s to th e ch e f to in co rp o ra te the
be st o f bo th the o rg a n o le p tic q u a litie s and s a fe ty and
s h e lf life in one approach. And even though it should not
be considered a p re s e rv a tio n tech niq ue per se, p ro p e rly
cooked sous vide fo o d s do have an increased sh e lf life.
Some o f th e b e n e fits are as fo llo w s:
JUICINESS: due to the retention of inherent mois­
ture and reabsorption of cooking juices (exudates)
and the complete gelation of connective tissue in
meats.
INCREASED YIELD: due to reduced shrinkage from
no evaporation or moisture loss, as well as reduced
fa t loss fo r low -fat m elt-point items like foie gras.
 CONSISTENCY: o f color and tex tu re throughout the
product— no "averaging"; this indicates there is no
range of doneness throughout the product: all is of
one doneness. A t this point it is up to the individual
if they w ant to sear the product to add M aillard
browning.
ENHANCED FLAVOR AND NUTRITION: achieved by
having the liquid cooking medium not come in direct
contact with the food, thereby assuring that no flavor
or nutrients are lost to the cooking liquid; aromatics
and marinades are more pronounced and effective;
freshness is retained and no oxidation occurs.
UN IFO RM SHAPE: especially when bags with
shrinkable properties are used, or gentle pressure
fo r delicate items.
TEXTURE MODIFICATION: delicately textured
foods can also be compressed or altered fo r pleas­
ing e ffe cts and fla v o r/te x tu re shifts.
SAFETY: in-package pasteurization avoids recon­
tam ination, equating to a microbiologically safe
product w ith extended shelf life.
GREEN MERITS: reduced energy use as well as
savings in labor, equipment, cleanup, and chem ical/
biological waste. Processing and storage space is
minimized; service to customer is sim plified, e f­
ficien t, and precise/accurate.
A braised piece o f m eat w ill ta ke several hours to
becom e a cce p ta b ly tender, and a ro a ste d ite m w ill also
req uire its p ro p e r am ount o f tim e in o rd e r to achieve the
c o rre c t core te m p e ra tu re . The ro a ste d piece w ill yie ld a
rosy c e n te r w ith a som e w h at w e ll-d o n e and dry e xte rio r.
The braise w ill re s u lt in an oxidize d gray p ro d u c t void o f
liquid and w ith dim inishe d n u tritio n a l value th a t req uire s
its b ra isin g ju ice s to p ro vid e th e re q u is ite fla v o r f o r a
s a tis fy in g dish.
But w h at if the f ir s t aspect o f th is cooking could be
achieved w ith o u t the second ta kin g place? This is possible
w ith sous vide. It allows you to cook an en tire piece o f p ro ­
tein w ith con sisten t and un iform color and te xtu re , while
retaining all o f its juiciness, enhanced flavor, and n u tritio n .
The "averaged” co lo r o f m ost cooked m eat is o b v i­
ously de pendent on th e te m p e ra tu re it is sub je cte d to
and re su lts desired. Its tenderness, on th e o th e r hand,
is a b it m ore com plex o f an issue. This in he rent q u a lity
in m eat is d ire c tly re la te d to th e species and m a tu rity
o f the animal, which in tu rn is linked to th e am ount o f
c h a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKIN G
m uscular connective tissu e and its con dition. As w ith
any a p p lica tio n o f heat to pro te in , th e re is an im m ediate
re tra c tio n o f m uscle fib e rs th a t re su lts in a hardening o f
th a t p ro te in and eventual w a te r loss if the te m p e ra tu re
becom es extrem e . In o rd e r to cou nter these e ffe c ts , it is
necessary, eventually, to render the tissu e m ore soluble
by th e process o f hydrolysis, or breaking down o f the
tissu e by re a ctin g w ith w ater. And as anyone who has
cooked a braised piece o f m eat knows, th is takes tim e.
The c o n ce p t o f Sous Vide versus T ra d itio n a l cooking
can be reduced to tw o sim p le te rm s: C o nce ntration and
D ilu tio n .
D ry-h e a t and m o is t-h e a t tra d itio n a l cooking have
b e n e fits , b u t th e y com e a t a price. The intense searing
o f p ro te in in o rd e r to develop a pleasing "cru st" w ith
accom panying M a illa rd fla v o r p ro file does so at the
expense o f m o is tu re and w ith re q u is ite shrinkage and
reduced yie ld. Even th e g e n tle s t a p p lica tio n o f heat
in a m o is t-h e a t tr a d itio n a l coo kin g approach ten ds to
ove rcoo k th e e x te rio r o f m o st fo o d s tu ffs over tim e
by d ra w in g o u t all th e m o istu re w h ile oxid izin g it. Even
g e n tle sim m e rin g draw s o u t th e in h e re n t m o istu re o f a
p ro d u ct, as w ell as ce rta in v ita l fla v o r com ponents and
n u tritio n a l vatue. This is d ilu tio n . And though stea m ing is
a h e a lth y technique, even it is to o extre m e a heat source
f o r c e rta in d e lic a te ite m s like seafood.
In technical term s, the d iffe re n ce between the applied
cooking te m p e ra tu re and the finished core tem pe rature
o f a pro d u ct is known as delta T or sim ply AT. The larger
th is num ber is, the m ore energy m om entum the product
has, which relates to the am ount o f carryover cooking th a t
is probable once energy is applied, the m olecules are ex­
cited, and the in te rio r o f the pro d u ct begins to accumulate
heat. Since the size o f the w indow fo r e rro r is reduced due
to th e use o f high tem pe rature s, the slig h te st abuse in this
regard w ill re su lt in a dry a n d /o r tough product. The re ­
verse then is also true, and accounts fo r the accuracy th a t
can be achieved w ith a low te m p e ra tu re and small AT ap­
proach. The la tte r m ethod allows the chef a w ider margin
o f e rro r th a t m ight prevent any overshoot in tem pe rature
and overcooking o f the product.
By em ploying a v irtu a lly im p erm ea ble-to-air plastic
pouch, sous vide cooking tra p s all o f the essential flavo rs
and even concentrates them to a certain point. The very
low cooking tem pe rature s, coupled w ith the vacuum bag,
produce te n d e r fo o d s tu ffs th a t are juicy, evenly cooked
through, w ith high yield and a ttra c tiv e color and shape
(and even rosy braises if desired). The "crusting" th a t is
highly appreciated on the surface o f proteins subjected
 PROCEDURES
It is important to deliver consistent heat to all
parts of the product for reasons of even cooking
and pasteurization. Therefore, since water is up
to a hundred times more efficient in transferring
heat energy than air is, the water bath is a preferred
cooking medium. A precise and accurate heat
source is required as well, so most chefs employ
a thermal circulator, monitored with a digital ther­
mometer fitted with needle probe, for delivering the
best performance.
Raw or marked (seared/grilled) product that
is thoroughly chilled to 42.8°F/6°C or less is intro­
duced to a laminated and extruded plastic bag. It is
lined up, and adjusted with spacer blocks, to cen­
ter the bag edge with the sealing bar of the cham-
ber-type vacuum machine. The machine is then pro­
grammed for the amount of vacuum desired (type
of product, shape, etc.), any post evacuation time
required (if product is porous), and the amount of
sealing time, which depends on the thickness and
characteristics of the plastic used.
The sealed bag is briefly chilled and then
placed in the appropriate-temperature bath
and kept there for the requisite amount of time
The equipment necessary fo r immersion cooking. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: vacuum sealer,
immersion thermocirculator, digital thermometer, needle probe, vacuum bags
550 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
necessary to cook the product to the desired done­
ness, and to pasteurize and render it safe for stor­
age and later reheating and service.
After the cooking is completed, the bag is
submerged in an ice and water bath (at least 50
percent ice) until a 37-4°F/ 3°C core temperature is
reached within two hours. This temperature must
be achieved or the product should be discarded.
The bag is then labeled with product, date, time,
and discard date. It is stored in a 3740F/3°C or low­
er refrigerator (or frozen) with electronic logging
capabilities for a prescribed amount of time (see
your local HACCP Food Code); at which point it
must be served or discarded. When reheating for
service, the bag is dropped into an appropriately
heated water bath until the core temperature is
achieved, and then opened and promptly served.
During the entire process from start to finish,
scrupulous log-keeping must be employed regard­
ing the cooking, chilling, storage, and reheating
temperatures and times, as well as discard dates,
and kept on record for a minimum amount of time
(see local HACCP Food Code).

Do not overcrowd the vacuum
bag. Food items inside the bag
should never be touching.
Be sure to place the vacuum bag
onto the vacuum sealer carefully
with enough of the bag over­
hanging the edge of the sealer
to create a clean seal.
A properly sealed vacuum bag.
sous vide
To prevent air and moisture
from escaping the sealed bag,
apply a piece of closed cell foam
tape to the area where you will
insert the thermometer probe.
Gently insert the thermometer
probe through the tape and into
the piece of meat.

When the thermocirculator is set in the water bath, it is Submerge the bag in an ice bath composed of at least 50% ice.
absolutely essential fo r the level of the water surrounding the
vacuum bag to be kept above the level of the return pipe at all
times. If the water level falls below the return pipe, the machine
could possibly be damaged.

The texture of a meat is determined by the structure of its muscle

fibers and the connective tissues that harness the individual mus­
cle fibers into bundles. A t left, muscle fibers encased by sheets of
connective tissue. At right, a cross-section of fiber bundles.

c h a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING 551
to dry-h ea t cooking m ethods can be applied quickly eith er
be fore or a fte r the the rm a l processing o f the product. In
th is manner the fo o d be n e fits fro m the tenderness and
juiciness o f g e n tly applied heat, as w e ll as th e ro b u st
fla v o rs achieved fro m M a illa rd re a ctio n com pounds.
O bviously, only p ris tin e and a b s o lu te ly fre s h p ro d ­
ucts should be u tiliz e d fo r sous vide tre a tm e n t, since
th e process n o t only m a g n ifie s and co n ce n tra te s th e in ­
he ren t fla v o rs , b u t any undesirable ones as w ell. It is fo r
th is "co n ce n tra tio n " reason th a t th e a d d itio n o f calcu­
la te d dosages o f seasonings and a ro m a tics be ju d icio u s
and tig h tly c o n tro lle d . Raw g a rlic and u n re fin e d oils
som e tim es te n d to produce ve ry pronounced and stro n g
o f f fla v o rs due to th e ir breakdow n du rin g long cooking
tim e s .1The na ture o f veg etab le s also poses a problem
when th e y are cooked a n d /o r used as a ro m atics, since
th e ir sta rch and cellulose -bou nd p e ctin is soluble a t a
te m p e ra tu re w e ll above th o se used fo r coo kin g p ro te in s.
So, i f used as aro m atics, th e y m ust be a lte re d b e fo re
th e y are in tro d u ce d to the package.
O riginally, fo o d s packaged and cooked in a ir-fre e or
m o d ifie d -a ir packages were done so a t high te m p e ra ­
tu re s in ord er to ensure m icrobiological safe ty, b u t w ith
dim inished resu lts in color, flavor, and te xtu re . The m od­
ern m ethod, re fe rre d to as "rig h t-te m p e ra tu re cooking"2
utilizes low tem pe rature s coupled w ith extended cooking
tim es th a t are calculated to produce the m ost desirable
sensory results while being pasteurized and m icro bio lo gi-
cally safe. In th is regard, sous vide is as much a cooking
technique as it is a process th a t increases stable s h e lf life.
The basic Sous V ide coo kin g p rocesses can be
sep ara te d in to CCRS (cook, chill, reheat, serve) co o k ­
ing: re fe rrin g to where the p ro d u c t is m arked (g rille d
or seared; o p tion al), bagged, th e rm a lly processed (to
cook and p a steurize the pro du ct), chille d o r frozen , and
then reh ea te d (m arked; again, o p tio n a l) f o r im m e d ia te
service; and CS (cook, serve) cooking: w here a p o rtio n e d
p ro d u c t is bagged, cooked to o rd e r and served im m e­
dia te ly. The la tte r is a p re fe rre d m ethod nowadays fo r
many chefs when cooking seafood.
SAFETY
As anyone tra in e d in fo o d s e rv ic e s a fe ty knows, ba cte ria
are never c o m p le te ly e lim in ated , b u t m ust be ke p t a t an
"a ccep ta ble level.”
Through e xp e rim e n ta tio n , fo o d s c ie n tis ts have
analyzed the g ro w th and death ra te s o f all fo rm s o f
ba cte ria sub je cte d to a v a rie ty o f c o n d itio n s over tim e.
The re su lts o f th is e x p e rim e n ta tio n are expressed in the
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
tim e /te m p e ra tu re ta b le s th a t th e FDA publishes in its
Food Code as gu id eline s th a t m ust be fo llo w e d in ord e r
to re n de r cooked and raw fo o d safe fo r con sum p tion to
th e pu blic (FDA.gov). HACCP is a ris k assessm ent th a t
is im p o rta n t to th e consumer, chef, and th e pro du ct. It
is th is "ris k " th a t is a t th e h e a rt o f sous vide s a fe ty and
req uire s a c e rta in am ount o f know ledge and tra in in g on
th e p a rt o f the ch e f em p lo ying it.
The sous vide en viro n m e n t (w ith in the bag) creates
a zone th a t p re ven ts o x id a tio n and in h ib its th e g ro w th
o f e x is tin g spoilage and pa thog en ic aerobic ba cte ria by
d e p riv in g bo th o f oxygen. A t th e same tim e it is a place
conducive to anaerobic spoilage and pathogenic bac­
te ria , e sp ecially i f th e p ro d u c t is te m p e ra tu re abused.
Though m any o f th e se organism s could be co n tro lle d
w ith adequate ph and sa lt, sous vide processing does so
m ainly w ith th e c o n tro ls o f te m p e ra tu re and tim e .3
It is im p e ra tiv e then th a t fo o d s tu ffs o f im peccable
q u a lity be used fo r sous vide processing, since th e risk
fo r surface c o n ta m in a tio n is g re a tly reduced. If s u f f i­
cie n t heat tre a tm e n t is supplied to pa ste u rize th e p ro d ­
u ct du rin g processing, the n all ve g e ta tiv e (active) fo rm s
o f p a thog en ic and spoilage b a cte ria w ill be de stro yed
or s ig n ific a n tly in a c tiv a te d . The only real th re a ts to
th e process are th e ce rta in s p o re -fo rm in g ba cte ria like
C lo s trid iu m p e rfrin g e n s and Botulinum, whose spores
are, to a large degree, heat re s is ta n t. But th e ir g ro w th
can be sa fe ly c o n tro lle d if th e p ro d u c t is sto re d a t less
than 3 7 .4 °F /3 °C , fo r no m ore than a sp e cifie d perio d o f
tim e , a fte r processing.
For the se reasons, then, it is im p o rta n t to un­
d e rsta n d th a t sous vide is n o t in te nd ed as a storage
system , nor should it be con sid ered solely as a means
o f in d e fin ite ly e xte n d in g th e s h e lf life o f packaged
fo o d s tu ffs . Each unique p ro d u c t w ith its own p ro ce ss­
ing p a ra m e te rs (tim e and te m p e ra tu re ) w ill have c o rre ­
sponding s h e lf life and sto ra g e p a ram e te rs (again, tim e
and te m p e ra tu re ) th a t m ust be resp ected and s tr ic tly
adhered to. O th erw ise, th e sous vide process becom es a
p o te n tia lly dangerous coo kin g and storag e m ethod. For
th is reason alone, sous vide is no b e tte r or w orse than
any tra d itio n a l coo kin g m ethod, but, if the p ro p e r co n d i­
tio n s are m et, it is a s a fe r storag e m ethod since th e re is
no ris k f o r re co n ta m in a tio n .
1J.M. Farber and K.L. Dodds, eds.. P rincip le s o fM o d ifie d -A tm o s p h e re
a nd Sous Vide P ro d u c t Packaging, pages 5,94,106, 111, 119,153,
199,243, and 253 (Lancaster, PA: Techomic, 1995).
2Ibid.
3Ibid.

Bass and Scallops en
Papillote
Makes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g sea bass fillets, cut into
ten lV 2-o z/4 3-g portions
1 lb /4 5 4 g sea scallops, muscle tabs removed
2 o z/5 7 g butter
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Vegetable Stock (page 265)
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL dry vermouth
2 lb /9 0 7 g celeriac, cut into julienne
1 lb /4 5 4 g Red Bliss potatoes, thinly sliced
10'/2 o z/3 1 5 g carrot, cut into julienne
IO V 2 o z/3 1 5 g cucumber, cut into julienne
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL Gremolata (page 601)
1 ts p /2 g crushed black peppercorns
1 . Cut 10 heart shapes out of parchment paper, large
enough to enclose the fish, scallops, and vegetables.
Lightly butter both sides of the paper.
2 . Combine the stock and vermouth in a large sauce­
pan and bring to a simmer (i85°F/85°C). Separately
blanch the celeriac, potatoes, and carrots in the
stock mixture until tender. Drain the vegetables and
toss with the cucumber.
3 . Arrange a bed of about 7 oz/198 g of the vegetables
on one half of each paper heart. Top the vegetables
with 1 portion of the bass and 1V2 oz/43 g of the scal­
lops. Top with about 1 tbsp/15 mL of the gremolata
and sprinkle with the peppercorns.
4 . Fold the other half of the heart over the fish and veg­
etables. Crimp the edges of the paper to seal tightly.
Refrigerate until needed.
5 . For each serving, place 1 parchment package on a
preheated sizzler platter or sheet pan and bake in a
425cF/2i8°C oven for 7 minutes. The package should
be puffy and the paper brown. Serve immediately.
For a dramatic presentation, cut the package open in
front of the diner.
C hapter 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO O KING
steaming and submersion recipes
Poached Sea Bass
with Clams, Bacon,
and Peppers
Makes 10 servings
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, cold
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg sea bass fillets, cut
into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g portions
50 littleneck clams, thoroughly scrubbed
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL dry white wine
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264)
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL clam juice
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
8 o z/2 2 7 g green pepper, cut into julienne, blanched
10 o z/2 8 4 g minced bacon, rendered crisp and drained
1 tb s p /3 g minced chives
1 . Lightly butter a shallow pan with 1 oz/28 g of the
butter. Add the fish (skin side down), clams, wine,
stock, and clam juice.
2 . Bring the liquid to just under a simmer (160° to
i8o°F/7i° to 82°C) over direct heat. Place a piece
of buttered parchment paper (cartouche) over the
fish and clams to cover. Transfer the entire pan to a
35o°F/i77°C oven.
3 . Poach until the fish is slightly underdone and the
clams are barely open, 10 to 12 minutes.
4 . Transfer the fish and clams to a half hotel pan, add
a small amount of the cuisson, cover with plastic
wrap, and hold warm.
5 . Place the pan with the cuisson over medium-high
heat, bring to a simmer, and reduce by two-thirds.
Whisk in the remaining butter to lightly thicken the
sauce. Season with salt and pepper.
6 . Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a
clean saucepan or bain-marie. Finish the sauce with
the peppers and bacon.
7 . Serve the fish and clams immediately with the sauce,
garnished with the chives, or hold hot for service.
553

Poached Trout with
Saffron Mousse
Makes 10 servings
Twenty 3 to 4 -o z /8 5 to 1 1 3 -g skinless trout fillets
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g salt, plus more as needed
3A tsp /1.50 g ground white pepper, plus more as needed
10 o z/2 8 4 g Trout and Saffron
Mousseline (recipe follows)
1 o z/2 8 g butter
3 medium shallots, minced
10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL dry white wine
10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264)
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Fish Veloute (page 294)
7 o z/1 9 8 g tomato concasse
2 tb sp /6 g chopped chives
10 o z /2 8 4 g sauteed baby spinach
1 . Season the trout with the salt and pepper. Spread Vi
oz/14 g of the mousseline in an even layer over the
skin side of the fillets and roll each piece up to make
a paupiette, skin side in. Place in a hotel pan, seam
side down, and refrigerate until ready to poach.
2 . Lightly butter a i2-in/30-cm sautoir and sprinkle the
bottom evenly with half of the shallots. Place half
of the paupiettes, seam side down, on top. Add half
of the wine and half of the fumet to reach no more
than halfway up the paupiettes.
3 . Bring the liquid to just under a simmer (160° to
i8o°F/7i° to 82°C) over medium heat. Place a piece
of buttered parchment paper (cartouche) over the
paupiettes to cover. Transfer the entire pan to a 300°
to 325°F/i49° to i63°C oven.
4 . Poach the paupiettes until the trout is opaque and
gives under slight pressure, 10 to 12 minutes.
5 . Transfer the paupiettes to a half hotel pan, add a
small amount of cuisson, cover with plastic wrap,
and hold warm.
6 . Place the pan with the cuisson over medium-high
heat, bring to a simmer, and reduce by two-thirds.
Reduce the heat to medium, add half of the veloute,
and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes. The sauce should be
reduced to a nappe consistency. Adjust seasoning
with salt and white pepper.
ch a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING
steaming and submersion recipes
/. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a
clean saucepan or bain-marie, if desired. Finish the
sauce with half each of the tomatoes and chives.
8 . Blot the paupiettes dry on paper towels. Serve imme­
diately with the sauce on a bed of sauteed baby spin­
ach or hold hot for service, no more than 10 minutes.
9 . Repeat steps 2 through 8 for the second batch.
NOTE: Adding lemon juice when finishing a sauce w ill add a
nice layer o f complexity to the dish.
Poached Sole w ith S a ffro n Mousse: S ubstitute an equal
amount o f sole fille t fo r the trout.
Trout and Saffron Mousseline
Makes 10 oz/284 g
2 pinches saffron threads, pulverized
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream
1 lb /4 5 4 g trout fille t trim
1 ts p /3 g salt, plus more as needed
1 egg white
Pinch freshly ground white pepper
1 . Combine the saffron and cream in a medium sauce­
pan and heat to a simmer. Remove from the heat and
let steep for 30 minutes. Chill well.
2 . Place the trout trim and salt in a food processor. Pro­
cess to a fine paste, scraping down the sides of the
bowl as needed. Pulse in the egg white until incorpo­
rated. Add the saffron-infused cream, salt, and pep­
per, pulsing the processor on and off until blended.
3 . Test the mousseline by poaching a small amount in
simmering salted water. Adjust seasoning if neces­
sary before proceeding.
4 . Push through a fine-mesh sieve, if desired.
5 . The mousseline is ready to use now, or may be refrig­
erated for later use.
NOTE: Garnish w ith 1 tb s p /3 g chopped chives, or other
herbs th a t can be folded in a fte r blending.
Sole M ousseline: S ubstitute an equal amount o f sole fo r
the tro u t. Omit the saffron.
Salm on M ousseline: S ubstitute an equal amount o f salmon
fo r the trout. Omit the saffron.
555
Poached Trout 1 . Season the trout with the salt and pepper. Spread the
mousseline in an even layer over the trout fillets and
Paupiettes with Vin roll each piece up to make a paupiette. Place them
in a hotel pan, seam side down, and refrigerate until
Blanc Sauce ready to poach.
Makes 10 servings 2.. Lightly butter a shallow pan and sprinkle evenly
with the shallots. Place the parsley stems, chive
Twenty 3 to 4 -o z /8 5 to 1 1 3 -g skinless trout fillets stems, and peppercorns on top. Place the paupiettes,
1 ts p /3 g salt seam side down, on the bed of shallots. Add the wine
and fumet.
V 2 tsp /1 g ground white pepper

1 lb /4 5 4 g Salmon Mousseline (page 555)

3 . Bring the liquid to just under a simmer (i6o° to
i8o°F/7i° to 82°C) over direct heat. Place a piece
1 o z/2 8 g butter
of buttered parchment paper (cartouche) over the
3 medium shallots, minced paupiettes to cover. Transfer the entire pan to a 300°
5 parsley stems to 325°F/i49° to i63°C oven.

5 chive stems
]A ts p /0.50 g coarsely cracked white peppercorns
10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL dry white wine
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264)
10 fl o z/3 00 mL Fish Veloute (page 294)
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL heavy cream
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed (optional)
4 . Poach until the trout flesh is opaque and gives under
slight pressure, 10 to 12 minutes.
5 . Transfer the paupiettes to a half hotel pan, add a
small amount of the cuisson, cover with plastic
wrap, and hold warm.
6 . Place the pan with the remaining cuisson over medi­
um-high heat, bring to a simmer, and reduce by two-
thirds. Reduce the heat to medium, add the veloute,
and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the cream and
reduce to a nappe consistency. Add lemon juice, if de­
sired, and adjust seasoning with salt and white pepper.
7 . Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a
clean saucepan or bain-marie large enough to hold
the finished sauce.
8 . Blot the paupiettes dry on paper towels. Serve im­
mediately with the sauce or hold hot for service.

le ft: A fte r the fille ts are gently flattened between plastic

wrap to ensure even cooking, pipe a cold fillin g down the
length of each fille t. Spread the fillin g evenly over the entire
surface fo r paupiettes. Fillings are optional, but if used, they
should be kept very cold until cooked, rig h t: Fillings need to
be completely encased to ensure they w ill be fully retained
during cooking and not leak out. The fish is rolled completely
around the filling before the paupiettes are transferred to a
holding container fo r later use.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

 steaming and submersion recipes
Poached Sole Royal Glagage
Makes 24 fl 02/720 mL
Paupiettes Veronique
Makes 10 servings 5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL poaching liquid, if
available, or Fish Fumet (page 264)

Ten 5 to 6 -o z /1 4 2 to 1 7 0 -g flounder fillets 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Fish Veloute (page 294)

1 ts p /3 g salt 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Hollandaise Sauce (page 298)

'/ 2 tsp /1 g ground white pepper 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream

10 o z/2 8 4 g Sole Mousseline (page 555)

1 o z/2 8 g butter 1 . Reduce the poaching liquid by two-thirds. Strain

1 o z/2 8 g minced shallots
8 parsley stems, chopped
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL dry white wine
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264)
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Royal Glagage (recipe follows)
10 o z /2 8 4 g green seedless grapes, peeled
and heated (about 4 per serving)
into a bowl.
2 . Have the veloute and hollandaise at the same tem­
perature (about 170°F/77°C). Add them to the re­
duced cuisson and fold together.
3 . Whip the cream to medium peaks.
4 . Fold the whipped cream gently into the veloute-
hollandaise mixture until combined. Keep warm and
use as needed.

1 . Season the sole with the salt and pepper. Spread the
mousseline in an even layer over the skin side of
the fillets and roll each piece up to make paupiettes.
Place them in a hotel pan, seam side down, and re­
frigerate until ready to poach.
2 . Lightly butter a shallow pan and sprinkle it evenly
with the shallots. Place the parsley on top of the
shallots. Place the paupiettes, seam side down, on
the bed of shallots. Add the wine and fumet.
3 . Bring the liquid to just under a simmer (i6o° to
i8o°F/7i° to 82°C) over direct heat. Place a piece
of buttered parchment paper (cartouche) over the
paupiettes to cover. Transfer the entire pan to a 300°
to 325°F/i49° to i63°C oven.
4 . Poach until the sole is opaque and gives under slight
pressure, 10 to 12 minutes. (Reserve the cuisson for
the gla^age.)
5 . Transfer the paupiettes to a plate and coat with the
gla^age. Brown under a salamander or broiler.
6 . Serve immediately, garnished with grapes, or hold
hot for service.

NOTE: The grapes can be placed on top o f the paupiettes

before glazing w ith glagage and browning.

c h a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING 557
Poached Sole with
Vegetable Julienne
and Vin Blanc Sauce
Makes 10 servings
Ten 5 to 6 -o z /1 4 2 to 1 7 0 -g flounder fillets
1 ts p /3 g salt
V i tsp /1 g ground white pepper
8 o z/2 2 7 g red pepper, cut into julienne, blanched
8 o z/2 2 7 g carrot, cut into julienne, blanched
8 o z/2 2 7 g yellow squash, cut into julienne, blanched
8 o z/2 2 7 g zucchini, cut into julienne, blanched
1 o z/2 8 g butter
3 medium shallots, minced
5 parsley stems
5 chives
V* ts p /0 .5 0 g coarsely cracked white peppercorns
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL dry white wine
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264)
l i b 8 o z /6 8 0 g shrimp (2 1 /2 5
count), peeled and deveined
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Fish Veloute (page 294)
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL heavy cream
2 tb sp /3 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed (optional)
2 tb sp /6 g minced chives
2 tb sp /6 g finely chopped parsley
1 . Place the fillets skin side up on a work surface and
season with salt and white pepper. Combine the pep­
pers, carrots, squash, and zucchini. Place a generous
portion of vegetables across each fillet, leaving the
vegetables extending over the edge of the fillets on
both sides. Roll or fold the fillets tail to head. Place
them in a hotel pan, seam side down, and refrigerate
until ready to poach.
2 . Lightly butter a shallow pan and sprinkle it evenly
with the shallots. Place the parsley stems, chives,
and peppercorns on top of the shallots. Place the
rolled sole portions, seam side down, on the bed of
shallots. Add the wine and fumet.
3 . Bring the liquid to just under a simmer (i6o° to
i8o°F/7i° to 82°C) over direct heat. Place a piece
M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
of buttered parchment paper (cartouche) over the
fillets to cover. Transfer the entire pan to a 300° to
325°F/i49° to i 63°C oven.
4 . After 6 minutes, add 3 shrimp per portion to the
pan. Poach for 4 to 6 minutes more, or until the
flesh of the fish and shrimp is opaque and gives un­
der slight pressure.
5 . Transfer the sole and shrimp to a half hotel pan, add
a small amount of the cuisson, cover with plastic
wrap, and hold warm.
6 . Place the pan with the remaining cuisson over medi-
um-high heat, bring to a simmer, and reduce by two-
thirds. Reduce the heat to medium, add the veloute,
and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the cream and
reduce the sauce to a nappe consistency. Add lemon
juice, if desired, and adjust seasoning with salt and
white pepper.
7 . Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a
clean saucepan or bain-marie. Mix the chives and
parsley into the sauce.
8 . Blot the sole rolls and shrimp dry on paper towels.
Serve immediately with the sauce or hold hot for
service.
Fillet o f Snapper en
Papillote
Makes 10 servings
Ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g red snapper fillets
6 o z/1 7 0 g butter
1 ts p /3 g salt
V i tsp /1 g ground black pepper
4 o z/1 1 3 g all-purpose flour
5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL Fish Veloute (page 294)
2V i o z/71 g minced shallots
5 o z/1 4 2 g thinly sliced green onions
5 o z/1 4 2 g thinly sliced white mushrooms
5 fl o z /1 5 0 mL dry white wine
1 . Cut 10 heart shapes out of parchment paper, large
enough to enclose the fillets. Lightly butter both
sides of the paper, using about 2 oz/57 g ° f the butter.

Heattheremainingbutterinasautepanovermedi­
um-highheat.Seasonthefilletswiththesaltandpep­
per,dredgeinflour,andsearbrieflyonthefleshside
only,3to5minutes.Removethefishfromthepan.
Place1tbsp/15mLofthevelouteononesideofeach
parchmentheart. Sprinkle2tsp/6gshallotsonthe
veloute. Placethefillets, skinsidedown,ontheshal­
lots. SprinkleV2 oz/14ggreenonionsontopofeach
fillet. ShingleV2 oz/14gslicedmushroomsoverthe
greenonions. Drizzlewith1tbsp/15mLwhitewine.
F ille t o f Snapper en Papillote
steaming and submersion recipes
4 . Foldtheotherhalfoftheheartoverthefish.Crim
p
theedgesofthepapertosealtightly.Refrigerateun­
tilneeded.
5. Foreachserving,place1parchm entpackage
onasizzlerplatterorsheetpanandbakeina
425°F/2i8°Covenfor7minutes.Thepackageshould
bepuffyandthepaperbrown.Serveimmediately.
Foradramaticpresentation,cutthepackageopenin
frontofthediner.
559
IN*

New England Shore Dinner


New England Shore
Dinner
Makes 10 servings
4 o z /1 1 3 g b u tte r
1 0 o z /2 8 4 g sm all-dice onions
Vi o z /1 4 g minced garlic
1 t s p /2 g dried thym e
2 bay leaves
16 fl o z /4 8 0 mL Chicken Stock
(page 2 6 3 ), or as needed
5 ears corn on th e cob, husked and q uartered
5 lobster tails, halved
6 0 little n e c k or cherrystone clams, scrubbed
6 0 mussels, scrubbed and debearded
2 lb /9 0 7 g Red Bliss potatoes
1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g cod fille ts , cut into
ten r /2 - o z /4 3 - g portions
5 leeks, w hite and light green parts
only, split and washed
3 0 pearl onions, blanched and peeled
1 0 o z /2 8 4 g sea scallops, muscle tabs rem oved
1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g zucchini, cut into thick b atonnet
2 tb s p /6 g chopped parsley
1. H
eatthebutterinalargepotovermediumheat.Add
theonionsandcook,stirringfrequently,untilthe
onionsaretenderandtranslucent, 2to3minutes.
Addthegarlicandsweatuntilaromatic, 1minute.
2 .A ddthethyme,bayleaves,andstockandbringtoa
simmeroverlowheat.
3.Arrangethenextteningredientsontopoftheonion
mixtureinthefollowingsequence: corn,lobster,
clams,mussels,potatoes,cod,leeks,pearlonions,
scallops,andzucchini.
4 . Coverthepotw ithatight-fittinglidandsteamover
mediumheatuntilalloftheingredientsarecooked
through,about25minutes.
5.Arrangethefish,seafood,andvegetablesonaplat­
ter,orservedirectlyfromthepot. Garnishwithpars­
ley.Strainthebrothandserveseparately,ifdesired.
c h a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING
steaming and submersion recipes
Boston Scrod with
Cream, Capers, and
Tomatoes
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 1 2 o z /1 .7 0 kg scrod fille ts , cut
into ten 6 -o z /1 7 0 -g portions
1 t s p /3 g salt
’/2 ts p /1 g ground black pepper
4 o z /1 1 3 g b utter, cold
3 tb s p /9 g minced shallot
4 o z /1 1 3 g sliced mushrooms, sauteed
10 f I o z /3 0 0 mL dry w hite wine
10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Fish F um et (page 2 6 4 )
10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL heavy cream
4 o z /1 1 3 g to m ato concasse
2 t b s p /3 0 mL drained capers
2 t b s p /3 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed
I . Seasonthescrodwiththesaltandpepper.
2 . Lightlybutterasautoirw ith1oz/28gofthebutterand
sprinkleitevenlywiththeshallotsandmushrooms.
Placethescrodontop.Addthewineandfumet.
3. Bringtheliquidtojustunderasim mer(160°to
i8o0F/7i°to82°C)overdirectheat. Placeapieceof
butteredparchmentpaper(cartouche)overthescrod
tocover.Transfertheentirepantoa35o°F/i77°C
oven.
4 . Poachuntilthescrodisopaqueandgivesunderslight
pressure, 10to12minutes. Transferthefishtoahalf
hotelpan,addasmallamountofthecuisson,cover
withplasticwrap,andholdwarm.
5. Reducethecreambyhalfoverm ediumheat.Atthe
sametime,placethepanwiththeremainingcuisson
overmedium-highheat,bringtoasimmer,andreduce
bytwo-thirds.Reducetheheatunderthecuissonto
medium,addthecream,andsimmerfor1to2minutes.
6. Addtheconcasseandcapersandsimmerlongenough
forthesaucetoreachanappeconsistency,3to4min­
utes.W hiskorswirlintheremainingbutter,addthe
lemonjuice,andadjustseasoning.
7. Servethescrodandm ushroomsimmediatelywith
thesauceorholdhotforservice.
561
Pescado Veracruzana
M akes 10 servings
1 0 red snapper fille ts (about 6 o z /1 7 0 g each)
1 ts p /3 g salt
Vi ts p /1 g ground black pepper
6 fl o z /1 8 0 mL lime juice
SAU C E
3 f I o z /9 0 mL olive oil
1 lb /4 5 4 g minced onion
3 garlic cloves, minced
3 lb /1 .3 6 kg peeled, seeded, m edium -dice tom ato es
1 5 large green olives, p itte d and chopped
4 Vi t s p /1 4 g drained capers, rinsed
5 pickled jalapenos, drained and cut into julienne
3 bay leaves
l /' 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g chopped m arjoram or oregano
r /2 ts p /1 .5 0 g chopped thym e
1 q t /9 6 0 mL Fish Fum et (page 2 6 4 ), or as needed
G A R N IS H
4 tb s p /1 2 g chopped parsley
1 .CutashallowXintheskinofthefilletsw
ithabon­
ingknife. Seasonthefishwiththesaltandpepper
andmarinateitinthelimejuice, refrigerated,forat
leastlhourorovernight.
2 .Tom akethesauce,heat2floz/6omLoftheoilin
asaucepanovermedium-highheat.Addtheonions
andgarlicandsauteuntiltheystarttoturngolden.
Addthetomatoes,olives,capers,jalapenos,bay
leaves,marjoramororegano,thyme,andstock.Bring
thesaucetosimmerandcookuntilthetomatoesare
softandtheflavorshaveblended.Adjustseasoning
withsaltandpepper,ifnecessary.Reserve.
3. Lightlygreaseashallowpanw iththeremainingoil.
Placethesnapperinthepan,skinsidedown.Pour
thesauceoverandaroundthefish.
4 . Bringthesaucetojustunderasim mer(i6o°to
i8o°F/7i°to82°C)overdirectheat.Placeapieceof
butteredparchmentpaper(cartouche)overthefishto
cover.Transfertheentirepantoa350°F/i77°Coven.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
5. Poachthefishuntilcookedthrough(i40°F/60°C), 6
to8minutes.
6. Servethefishimmediatelywiththesaucespooned
overthetop.Garnisheachservingwithparsley.
Cioppino
M akes 10 servings
2 tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil
12 o z /3 4 0 g fin e ly diced onion
1 bunch green onions, green and w hite
portions, thin ly sliced on the bias
12 o z /3 4 0 g sm all-dice green pepper
12 o z /3 4 0 g sm all-dice fennel
ltb s p /lO g s a lt
'/t ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper
4 ts p /1 2 g minced garlic
4 lb /1 .8 1 kg to m ato concasse
8 f I o z /2 4 0 mL dry w hite wine
1 6 fl o z /4 8 0 mL Tom ato Sauce (page 2 9 5 )
2 bay leaves
1 q t /9 6 0 mL Fish Fum et (page 2 6 4 )
2 lb 8 o z /1 .1 3 kg M anila clams, scrubbed
2 lb 8 o z /1 .1 3 kg mussels, scrubbed and debearded
1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g shrimp ( 1 6 /2 0
count), peeled and deveined
2 lb 8 o z /1 .1 3 kg cod fille t, large dice
12 o z /3 4 0 g sea scallops, muscle tabs removed
10 G arlic-Flavored Croutons (recipe follow s)
3/ t o z /2 1 g basil chiffonade
1. H
eattheoilinalargesouppotovermediumheat.
Addtheonions,greenonions,peppers,andfennel
andseasonwithsaltandpepper. Sauteuntiltheon­
ionsaretranslucent, 7to8minutes.Addthegarlic
andsauteuntilaromatic, 1minutemore.
2 .A ddtheconcasse,wine,tomatosauce,bayleaves,
andfumet. Coverthepotandsimmerslowlyfor
about20minutes.Addmorefumetifnecessary.Re­
moveanddiscardthebayleaves.

3.A
ddtheseafoodandsimmeruntilthecod,shrimp,
andscallopsarecookedandtheclamsandmussels
areopened,7to8minutes.
4 . Servethecioppinoim mediately.Garnisheachserv­
ingwithacroutonandsomebasil.
Makes10servings
Garlic-Flavored Croutons
Makes10servings
1 0 thin slices French bread, cut on the diagonal
5 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
2 f I o z /6 0 mL olive oil
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 .Arrangethebreadslicesonabakingsheet. Rubeach
slicewithgarlicandbrushlightlywithoilonboth
sides. Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
2 .Brow nthebreadunderasalamanderorbroiler;turn
andbrownonthesecondside.Reserveuntilneeded.
ch a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING
steaming and submersion recipes
Poached Chicken
Breast with Tarragon
Sauce
Ten 7 to 8 - o z /1 9 8 to 2 2 7 -g
boneless chicken supremes
Salt, as needed
Ground w hite pepper, as needed
2 o z /5 7 g b u tte r
2 o z /5 7 g minced shallot
1 0 f I o z /3 0 0 mL dry w hite wine
1 0 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3 )
1 0 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Chicken Veloute (page 2 9 4 )
1 0 fl o z /3 0 0 mL heavy cream
1 tb s p /3 g chopped tarragon
1 . Seasonthechickenw ithsaltandpepper.
2 . Lightlybutterashallowpanandsprinkleitevenly
withtheshallots. Placethechickenontop(skinside
up).Addthewineandstock.
3. Bringtheliquidtojustunderasim mer(160°to
i8o°F/7i°to82°C)overdirectheat. Placeapiece
ofbutteredparchmentpaper(cartouche)over
thechickentocover.Transfertheentirepantoa
350°F/i77°Coven.
4 . Poachthechickenuntilcookedthrough
(i65°F/74°C), 12to14minutes.
5. Transferthechickentoahalfhotelpan,addasm all
amountofthecuisson,coverwithplasticwrap,and
holdwarm.
6. Placethepanwiththeremainingcuissonovermedi­
um-highheat,bringtoasimmer,andreducebytwo-
thirds. Reducetheheattomedium,addtheveloute,
andsimmerfor1to2minutes. Stirinthecreamand
reducetoanappeconsistency.Adjustseasoningwith
saltandwhitepepper.
7. Strainthesaucethroughafine-m eshsieveintoa
cleansaucepanorbain-marielargeenoughtohold
thefinishedsauce. Stirthetarragonintothesauce.
8. Blotthechickendryonpapertowels. Serveimmedi­
atelywiththesauceorholdhotforservice.
563
Farmhouse Chicken 7. Strainthesaucethroughafine-m
eshsieveintoa
cleansaucepanorbain-marie. Reservewarm.
with Angel Biscuits 8. Heat1oz/28goftheremainingbutterinasaute
M akes 10 servings panovermedium-highheat.Addtheremaining
mushroomsandsauteuntiltender. Seasonwith
Ten 7 to 8 - o z /1 9 8 to 2 2 7 -g boneless,
skinless chicken supremes
saltandpepper.Reservewarm.
9. H eattheremainingbutterinanothersautepan
Salt, as needed
andreheatthecarrots,turnips, rutabagas,and
Ground w hite pepper, as needed Brusselssprouts.Addalittlestock,ifnecessary.
4 o z /8 5 g b u tte r Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
3 medium shallots, minced 10 .Servethechickenim mediatelywiththesauce,
1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g sliced w hite mushrooms
vegetables, andbiscuits. Garnishwithapinchof
1 0 fl o z /3 0 0 mL dry w hite wine
choppedparsleyanddill.
1 0 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Chicken Stock
(page 2 6 3 ), or as needed

1 0 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Chicken Veloute (page 2 9 4 )

3 0 baby carrots, peeled and blanched

3 0 w hite turnip batonnet, blanched

3 0 rutabaga batonnet, blanched

1 5 Brussels sprouts, halved and blanched

2 0 Biscuit Dumplings (page 8 3 5 )

4 tb s p /1 2 g chopped parsley

4 tb s p /1 2 g chopped dill

1. Seasonthechickenw iththesaltandpepper.
2 . Lightlybutterashallowpanw ithhalfofthebutter
andsprinkleevenlywiththeshallotsand8oz/227
gofthemushrooms. Placethechickenontop
(skinsideup).Addthewineandstock.
3. Bringtheliquidtojustunderasim mer(160°to
i8o°F/7i°to82°C)overdirectheat. Placeapiece
ofbutteredparchmentpaper(cartouche)over
thechickentocover.Transfertheentirepantoa
350°F/i77°Coven.
4 . Poachthechickenuntilcookedthrough
(i65°F/74°C), 12to14minutes.
5. Transferthechickentoahalfhotelpan,adda
smallamountofthecuisson,coverwithplastic
wrap,andholdwarm.
6. Placethepanwiththeremainingcuissonover
medium-highheat,bringtoasimmer,andreduce
bytwo-thirds. Reducetheheattomedium,addthe
veloute,andreducetoanappeconsistency.Adjust
seasoningwithsaltandwhitepepper.

M EAT S, POULTRY. FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

 steaming and submersion recipes
Poule au Pot (Chicken 7.Arrangethechicken(abreastportionandeithera
drumstickorthigh)ineachbowlwithvegetables,
with Vegetables) ladlebrothintothebowl,andfinishwiththechives.
M akes 8 servings Serveimmediatelyorholdhotforservice.
2 broiler chickens (about 3 lb /1 .3 6 kg
each), w ith giblets except livers

3'/2 q t/3 .3 6 L Chicken S to ck (page 2 6 3 )

1 Standard Bouquet Garni (page 2 4 1 )

1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 2 4 1 )

8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice potatoes

8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice carrots

8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice celeriac

8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice parsnips

8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice leeks, w hite

and light green portions

1 t b s p /1 0 g salt

1 t s p /2 g ground black pepper

1 o z /2 8 g minced chives

1 . Rem
ovethebackbonesfromthechickensandreserve.
Cutthebirdsintoquarters,thenhalvethebreasts.
2 . Bringthestocktoasim mer(i8o°toi85°F/82°to
85°C)inalargepot. Placethechickens,backbones,
necks, hearts,andgizzardsinanotherpotandadd
enoughsimmeringstocktocoverbyi to1V2in/3to
4cm.Returnthestocktoasimmeroverlowheat.
Skimcarefullythroughoutthecookingtime.
3.A ddthebouquetgarniandsachet. Simmerforap­
proximately45minutes.Transferthechickenlegs
andbreaststoacleanpot. Strainthebrothoverthe
chickenanddiscardthebouquetgarni, sachet,back­
bones,necks, heart,andgizzards. Returnthebroth
toasimmerandcookoverlowheatfor30minutes
more.
4 .A ddthevegetablestothebrothinastaggeredse­
quencecookingeachforjustaminuteortwobefore
addingthenext: potatoes, carrots, celeriac,parsnips,
andtheleekslast.
5. Continuetosim mer,skimmingasnecessary,until
thechickenisfork-tenderandallofthevegetables
aretender,20to25minutes.
6. Removethechickenandseparatethedrumsticks
fromthethighs. Cutthebreasthalvesinhalfagain,
onabias. Seasonwithsaltandpepper.

ch a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKIN G 565
Udon Noodle Pot
Makes10servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g dry udon noodles
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil
1 g a l/3 .8 4 L Ichi Ban Dashi (page 2 6 6 }
2 0 little n e c k clams, scrubbed
1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g boneless, skinless chicken
thighs, cut into b ite-size pieces
2 0 shrimp ( 3 1 /3 6 count), peeled, deveined, blanched
2 lb 3 o z /9 9 2 g shiitake mushrooms, stem m ed
1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g baby bok choy,
halved and cored, blanched
1 lb /4 5 4 g spinach, chiffonade
1 lb /4 5 4 g carrots, cut into coins, blanched
8 o z /2 2 7 g snow peas, strings rem oved, blanched
10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL soy sauce
2 tb s p /3 0 mL mirin
2 green onions, thin ly sliced on the bias
1. Bringalargepotofsaltedw
atertoaboil. Cookthe
noodlesuntiljusttender,6to8minutes. Drainthe
noodlesandrinseundercoldwater. Drainagain,
tosswiththeoil, andreserve.
2 . Bringthedashitoasim merinalargepot.
3. Placetheclam s,chicken,shrimp,andshiitakesin
aseparatepotandladlethesimmeringdashiover
thetop.Returntoasimmerandpoachuntilthe
clamsovermediumheatareopenandthechickenis
cookedthrough(i65°F/74°C).
4 . Servetheclam s,chicken,shrimp,andshiitakesin
abowlonabedofthenoodleswiththebokchoy,
spinach,carrots,andsnowpeas. Ladlethedashiover
thetopandserveimmediately.Garnishwiththesoy
sauce,mirin,andgreenonions.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
Corned Beef with
Winter Vegetables
Makes12to14servings
10 lb /4 .5 4 kg corned b ee f brisket, trim m ed
3 q t/2 .8 8 L cold W h ite B eef Stock
(page 2 6 3 ) or w ater, or as needed
2 lb /9 0 7 g green cabbage, cut into 1 2 to 1 4 wedges
1 4 new potatoes, halved
3 0 baby carrots, peeled
1 4 baby turnips, peeled
1 lb /4 5 4 g pearl onions, blanched and peeled
S alt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Splitthebrisketalongthenaturalseaminto2pieces.
2 .Placethem eatinadeeppotandaddenoughstock
orwatertocoverthemeat. Bringtoasimmer(180°
toi85°F/82°to85°C), skimmingthesurfaceasnec­
essary.Reducetheheattoestablishaslowsimmer,
cover, andcontinuesimmeringuntilthemeatis
nearlyforktender, about2V2hours.
3.A ddthevegetablestothecornedbeefandcontinue
tosimmeruntiltheyaretenderandflavorfulandthe
cornedbeefisfork-tender,35to45minutes. Season
withsaltandpepperasneededthroughoutthecook­
ingtime.
4 . Rem ovethecornedbeeffromthecookingliquidand
carveintoslices. Serveimmediatelywiththeveg­
etablesorholdhotforservice.
 steaming and submersion recipes
Beef Noodle Soup J.Addthecinnamon,staranise,andclovestothe
brothandcontinuetosimmeruntiltheirflavoris
(Pho Bo) apparent,about30minutes. Strainthebrothand
Makes10servings seasonwithsaltandpepper. Reserve.
6. Removethebeefshoulderfromthewater,sliceit
1 0 lb /4 .5 4 kg b ee f m arrow bones
intothinpieces, andreserve.
2 lb /9 0 7 g b e e f shoulder clod 7. Bringalargepotofsaltedw atertoaboil.Addthe
3 g a l/1 1 .5 2 L w a te r noodlesandcookuntiljusttender. Serveimmedi­
1 0 o z /2 8 4 g ginger, cut in h alf lengthwise, dry roasted
atelyorrinseuntilcool,drainwell,andreheatat
1 0 medium shallots, peeled, dry roasted
service.
8. Bringthebrothtoaboil. Foreachportion,place
8 fl o z /2 4 0 mL fish sauce
noodlesinabowl.Placesomebeansproutsandon­
7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar ionslicesoverthenoodles, followedbyafewslices
6 cinnamon sticks ofthebeefshoulder. Lay2or3slicesoftherawbeef
1 2 s ta r anise pods, lightly toasted
overthecookedshoulder.Ladletheboilingbroth
intothebowl.Thebrothshouldcoverthemeatby1
6 cloves, lightly toasted
in/3cm-
Salt, as needed
9 . Serveim mediately,garnishedwiththegreenonions,
Ground black pepper, as needed herbs,andchiles. Servealimewedgeandchilisauce
1 lb /4 5 4 g rice noodles, Vs in /3 mm wide ontheside.
6 o z /1 7 0 g bean sprouts

1 medium onion, sliced paper thin

8 o z /2 2 7 g b ee f strip loin, slightly

fro zen , sliced paper thin

4 green onions, sliced thin

3 0 Thai basil leaves

3 0 cilantro leaves

3 0 m int leaves

3 0 rau ram leaves

5 Thai chiles, sliced paper thin

1 0 lime wedges

5 f l o z /1 5 0 mL V ie tn a m es e chili sauce

1. Blanchthebonesandbeefshoulder. Drain.
2 . Inalargepot,coverthebonesandshoulderwiththe
water.Addtheginger,shallots,fishsauce,andsugar.
Bringtoaboil.
3. Sim meruntiltheshoulderistender,about1V2hours,
skimmingthesurfacethroughoutthecookingtime,
asneeded.
4 . Rem ovetheshoulderfromtheliquidandsubmerge
itinabowlofcoolwaterfor15minutes.

c h a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING 569
 Boiled Beef Seafood Poached in
with Spatzle a Saffron Broth with
and Potatoes Fennel
Makes 10 servings
(G aisburger Marsch)
Makes 10 servings 1 q t/9 6 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264)

1 ts p /1 .5 0 g saffron threads, crushed

4 lb/1.81 kg beef shank meat,
cut into V i-in /l-c m cubes 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)

1 gal 2 q t/5 .7 6 L White Beef Stock (page 263) 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Pernod

2 lb 12 o z/1.25 kg medium-dice onion 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL dry white wine

2 bay leaves 1 lb /4 5 4 g fennel, cut into julienne

1 clove Salt, as needed

Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed 3 lb /1.36 kg assorted seafood (see Note)

1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice potatoes 1 lb/454 g tomato concasse

12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-dice leeks, 1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley or fennel fronds

white and light green portions

3 o z/8 5 g butter 1 . Combine the fumet, saffron, sachet, Pernod, wine,

2 lb /9 0 7 g Spatzle (page 834), cooked in beef and fennel in a large sautoir. Simmer at 180° to
broth or salted water, drained, and cooled i85°F/82° to 85°C until the fennel is barely tender

1 o z/2 8 g chopped parsley

1 . Blanch the beef. Drain.
2 . Combine the beef with the stock, 12 oz/340 g of
the onions, the bay leaves, and clove in a large
pot. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer
until the beef is tender. Skim as necessary and
season with salt and pepper as needed throughout
the cooking time.
and the broth is well flavored, about 12 minutes.
Remove the sachet. Season with salt and pepper. Use
immediately or cool rapidly and store for later use.
2.. At the time of service, bring the broth and fennel to
a bare simmer. Add the seafood and poach until it is
just cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the toma­
toes and continue to cook until heated through.
3 . Serve immediately with the broth, or hold hot for
service. Garnish with parsley.

3 . After 45 minutes to 1 hour, remove enough of NOTE: A variety o f seafood may be used, including shrimp,
the beef broth to cover the potatoes in a medium monkfish, squid, shark, scallops, and lobster.
saucepan. Cook the potatoes until tender, 10 to
15 minutes. Remove and set aside to cool slightly.
Add the leeks to the broth and parcook for 3 min­
utes; remove and cool.
4 . Meanwhile, saute the remaining onions in the
butter in a medium-large saute pan until golden
brown.
5 . Add the potatoes and spatzle and heat through.
Add the leeks and parsley. Adjust seasoning with
salt and pepper. Serve immediately with beef or
hold hot for service.

570 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

praising
Itewing
Braises and stews have a robust, hearty flavor and are often considered
fall and winter meals. They are often thought of as peasant dishes because

they frequently call for less tender (and less expensive) main ingredients
than other techniques. However, by replacing traditional ingredients with
poultry, fish, or shellfish, braises and stews can be faster to prepare,
lighter in flavor and color, and appropriate for contemporary menus.
 To B R A I S E M E A T , F I R S T S E A R IT IN H O T F A T T O T H E D E S I R E D C O L O R , T H E N S I M M E R IT IN A C O V E R E D

V E S S E L IN S T O C K O R A N O T H E R C O O K I N G LI Q. UI D. T H E A M O U N T O F LI Q. UI D U S E D IN T H E B R A I S E IS

C R U C I A L TO T H E S U C C E S S O F T H E F I N I S H E D D I S H . Be S U R E T O H A V E E N O U G H LI Q. UI D TO K E E P T H E F O O D

M O I S T E N E D T H R O U G H O U T T H E C O O K I N G T I M E A N D T O P R O D U C E A N A D E Q U A T E A M O U N T O F S A U C E TO

S E R V E W I T H T H E F I N I S H E D I T E M . T Y P I C A L L Y , O N E ’ T H I R D TO O N E ’ H A L F O F T H E M A I N I T E M S H O U L D B E

S U B M E R G E D IN T H E C O O K I N G M E D I U M .

braises
One o f the b e n e fits o f b ra isin g is th a t tou gh cuts o f m eat becom e te n d e r as th e m o ist heat
g e n tly p e n e tra te s th e m eat and causes th e connective tissue s to so fte n . A n o th e r b e n e fit
is th a t fla v o r is released in to th e cooking liquid to becom e th e accom panying sauce; thus
v irtu a lly all th e fla v o r is retained. The sauce re s u ltin g fro m a braise also has exceptional
body, as th e slow cooking breaks down th e tou gh connective tissu e s and causes them to
tra n s fo rm in to gelatin.
Tender foo ds, even de lica te fis h and she llfish , can also be braised. To p ro p e rly braise
these kinds o f foo ds, use less cooking liquid and cook th e fo o d a t a low er te m p e ra tu re fo r
a s h o rte r perio d o f tim e.
The less te n d e r cuts o f m eat to be braised come fro m m ore m ature and m ore exercised
anim als. These cuts are m ore deeply fla v o re d than th e te n d e r fo o d s used fo r sauteing and
steam ing. Braised fo o d s are o fte n le ft in a single large piece th a t can be sliced or carved.
It's a good idea to tru s s o r tie the m eat in o rd e r to m aintain th e p ro p e r shape.
Food may also be w rapped in le ttu c e leaves or o th e r coverings to help m aintain the
shape and pre ven t th e fo o d fro m breaking a p a rt du rin g cooking.
The cooking liquids usually co n sist o f rich sto c k o r a com b in ation o f a s to c k and a sauce
(such as espagnole, dem i-glace, o r veloute) suited to th e main item 's flavor. B roths, essences,
or veg etab le ju ices may also be used. W ine is o fte n used to deglaze th e pan b e fo re the
braising liquid is added.
A ro m a tic vegetables, o r herbs, are so m e tim es added f o r m ore flavo r. If th e y are to be
stra in e d o u t o f the sauce o r pureed and added back to th e sauce, u n ifo rm cuts are n o t so
im p o rta n t. However, when a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts w ill be used as a garnish in th e fin ish e d
dish, th e y should be peeled, cu t to a u n ifo rm size and shape, and added to the dish in the
pro pe r sequence, so th a t all com ponents fin is h cooking a t th e same tim e.
Tom ato pro du cts may be included to give th e fin is h e d dish a d d itio n a l fla v o r and color
i f m aking a brown braise. Tom ato concasse, to m a to puree, o r to m a to paste can all be used.
Prepare a sachet d'epices or bouq ue t garni includ in g spices, herbs, and o th e r a ro m a tic in­
g re d ie n ts as desired o r re q u ire d by th e recipe. A w hole g a rlic head can be ro a ste d w ith a
little o il and added to give a deeper, s w e e te r fla v o r to th e dish.
To th icke n th e braising liquid f o r a sauce, use roux, ro u x-th icke n e d sauces, reductions,
beurre manie, or, as a la st re s o rt, a pure starch slurry. M ire p o ix may also be pureed and
added back to th e sauce to th icke n it.
Choose a heavy-gauge braising pan or rondeau w ith a lid o f a size and shape th a t best
f it s the m eat or p o u ltry f o r slow, even cooking. Use a kitche n fo rk to te s t doneness and a
spoon to rem ove the fo o d fro m th e sauce. Also have a carving k n ife and o th e r eq uipm ent
to fin is h the sauce, such as a s tra in e r a n d /o r im m ersion blender.

572 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 braises
basic formula

Braising 2 q t/1 .9 2 L cooking liquid (brown Salt and other seasonings

(4 entree portions)
32 to 40 oz/850 g to 1.13
kg meat, poultry, or fish
stock, brown sauce, and/or other (sachet d’epices or bouquet
fla vo rfu l liquids, such as wine) garni, fo r example)
4 oz/113 g prepared aromatics A dditional finishing or garnishing
(mirepoix and/or other vegetables) ingredients as appropriate

method
at-a-glance
Sear the main item on all
sides in hot fat.

Remove the main item.

To thicken the sauce,
expert tips

any one o f the follow ing may be used, de­

0
Add the m irepoix and sweat pending on your desired results. Flour may be added either by dusting the main
it. item or by adding it directly to the pan w ith the aromatic vegetables. To reduce

Add the roux, if it is being a sauce, cook it over medium heat to a good consistency.

used. FLO U R (R O U X ) / STARCH S L U R R Y / PU REED A R O M A T IC V EG ETAB LES /

R E D U C TIO N / BEURRE M A N IE
Return the main item to the
bed of m irepoix in the pot.
Additional ingredients may be added to develop more flavor.
6 . Add the liquid.
Add some early in the cooking process to infuse flavor. Others may be added
Bring it to a simmer over later on so th a t they retain th e ir individual flavor and/or texture:
direct heat.
R O ASTED G A R LIC / SA C H E T D 'E PIC E S OR B O U Q U ET G A R NI / A D D IT IO N A L
Cover; finish the braise in VEG ETAB LES
the oven until it is fo rk -
tender.
The sauce fo r the braise may be served unstrained, containing
9 . Add the sachet d’epices or ingredients th a t are cooked along w ith the main item, such as potatoes and
bouquet garni and garnishes other vegetables. In other instances, the sauce is strained before it is served
at the appropriate times. and any additional finishing or garnishing ingredients are added ju s t before
serving.
10 . Remove the main item and
keep it warm.

Prepare the sauce: strain,

reduce, thicken, and garnish
it as desired.

Slice or carve the main item

and serve it w ith a sauce and
an appropriate garnish.

ch a p te r 20 » B R A IS IN G A N D S T EW IN G 573
 1. trim fabricated cuts of meat of
all excess f a t and g ris tle . M e a t o r p o u ltry should be sea­
soned w ith s a lt and fre s h ly ground pepper, spice blends,
o r m arinades b e fo re searing.
P ro p e rly fa b ric a te d m eat im proves th e q u a lity and
fla v o r o f th e dish. B raising c o n ce n tra te s th e n a tural f la ­
vors o f th e main item , co o kin g liquid, and added in g re d i­
ents, b u t it is s till im p o rta n t to season th e fo o d b e fo re be­
ginn ing to cook. Long sim m e ring tim e s reduce th e volum e
o f liquid and make re la tiv e ly sm all am ounts o f seasoning
m ore intense. Taste and ad ju st seasoning th ro u g h o u t the
e n tire coo kin g process.

m eth o d in d etail
2. sear the meat to develop fla v o r and a rich
brow n color. H eat th e pan and oil and sear th e seasoned
main ite m on all sides to a deep brown. Cook th e main
ite m on high heat, tu rn in g it as o fte n as necessary, ju s t
u n til each side is w e ll colored. For a pa le r dish, som etim es
re fe rre d to as a w h ite braise, som e fo o d s are cooked only
u n til th e ir e x te rio r seizes, w ith o u t brow ning. A fte r s ea r­
ing, th e main ite m should be rem oved, the heat lowered,
and the m ire p o ix should be cooked to th e desired color.

574 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 braises
3. after browning the mirepoix,
cook th e to m a to pa ste u n til it tu rn s a deep ru s t c o lo r and
sm ells sw eet. Onions are ty p ic a lly added to th e pan f ir s t
and allow ed to cook to th e a p p ro p ria te color: te n d e r and
tra n s lu c e n t f o r a lig h t-c o lo re d braise, o r deep golden fo r
a brow n braise. A llo w enough tim e to cook th e se in g re d i­
ents p ro p e rly. A dd o th e r v eg etab le s, herbs, and spices to
th e pan in sequence.
A cid ic in g re d ie n ts such as to m a to e s o r w ine are o fte n
added to a braise. In a d d itio n to deglazing th e pan and
relea sing th e fon d, th e liq u id a n d /o r acid helps to s o fte n
th e tou gh tissu e s o f som e braised fo o d s and adds a d e s ir­
able fla v o r and c o lo r to th e fin is h e d dish.

4. add enough Stock to th e pingage to

cover th e ite m by o n e -th ird to on e-h alf. B ring to a sim m er.
Add th e main ite m back to th e sim m e rin g liquid, along
w ith any a d d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts. Cover th e p o t and braise
in th e oven.
The am o un t o f liq u id should be ad ap te d to s u it the
c h a ra c te ris tic s o f th e m ain item . B rin g th e liquid ju s t up to
a sim m e r (n o t a tru e boil), s tirrin g w ell, e sp e cia lly if flo u r
was added to th e a ro m a tic vegetables.
Add the a ro m a tics (such as ro a ste d ga rlic, a sachet
o r bouquet, a d d itio n a l veg etab le s, o r o th e r in g re d ie n ts)
a t th e a p p ro p ria te tim e . Add som e a ro m a tics ea rly in the
cooking process to in fu se th e dish w ith th e flavo r. O th ­
ers may be added la te r in th e process so th e y re ta in th e ir
fla v o r or te x tu re .

c h a p te r 20 » B R A IS IN G A N D S T EW IN G 575
 5. braise until the main item is
fu lly cooked and tender. E stab lish a slow sim m er over d i­
re c t heat, cover th e po t, and fin is h coo kin g the braise in a
m e d iu m -lo w oven (a p p ro xim a te ly 2 7 5 ° to 3 2 5 °F /1 3 5 ° to
163°C ) o r over low d ire c t heat. S tir, skim , and ad ju st the
seasoning and am ount o f liq u id th ro u g h o u t th e cooking
tim e . Baste o r tu rn th e fo o d s fro m tim e to tim e to keep
all surface s evenly m oiste ne d w ith the cooking liquid. This
helps to ensure th a t the fo o d cooks evenly.
Remove th e lid du rin g th e fin a l p a rt o f th e cooking
tim e . This w ill cause th e coo kin g liquid to reduce ade­
q u a te ly so th a t th e sauce w ill have a good con sisten cy and
flavo r. Also, if th e main ite m is tu rn e d fre q u e n tly a fte r
the lid has been rem oved and is thus exposed to h o t air,
a glaze w ill fo rm on th e surface, p ro vid in g a glossy sheen
and good fla vo r. F o rk -te n d e r braised fo o d s slide easily
fro m a kitch e n fo rk or may be cut w ith the side o f a fo rk .
Even tho ugh ca rryo ve r coo kin g is n o t as big a fa c to r
f o r the se dishes as it is f o r roa sts, g rills , and sautes, it is
s till easier to carve fo o d s a fte r the y are allow ed to re s t
f o r several m inutes. T ransfe r th e m ain ite m to a pan and
keep it w arm w h ile fin is h in g th e sauce.
As th e braised fo o d rests, th e sauce can be fin ish e d
in a num ber o f ways. Remove and discard the sachet
d’epices o r b o uq ue t garni. R eturn the bra isin g liquid to a
sim m er and degrease the sauce by skim m ing away any
surface fa t. Once it reaches th e c o rre c t consistency,
a d ju st seasoning as needed. M any braises include veg­
etables, p o ta to e s, or o th e r com ponents th a t are cooked
along w ith th e main item . Serve the se sauces unstrained.
In o th e r instances, th e sauce is stra in e d b e fo re it is
served.
The braise may be cooled ra p id ly and sto re d in the re ­
fr ig e ra to r f o r la te r use, i f desired. Add any fin a l fin is h in g
or g a rnishin g in g re d ie n ts ju s t b e fo re serving the braise.
W ell made braises have an intense fla vo r, as a re s u lt
o f th e long, g e n tle cooking, and a s o ft, a lm o st m e ltin g te x ­
ture. The main item 's n a tural juices, along w ith th e cooking
liquid, becom e con ce n tra te d , p ro vid in g bo th a deep fla v o r
and a fu ll-b o d ie d sauce. Braised fo o d s have a deep color
depending on th e ty p e o f fo o d . They should re ta in th e ir
n a tural shape, although a s ig n ific a n t am ount o f volum e
is lo s t du rin g cooking. When done, braised fo o d s are ex­
tre m e ly tender. They should not, however, be dry o r fa ll
in to shreds. This w ould in d ica te th a t the fo o d has been
overcooked or cooked to o ra p id ly a t a high heat.

576 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 stews
S tew s s h a re m a n y sim ilarities w ith b r a is e s , fr o m the cuts of m eat ch o sen to th e t e x t u r e

OF the FINISHED dish .Th e y D I F F E R F R O M B R A I S E S IN T H A T T H E F O O D S A R E C U T I NT O B I T E ' S I Z E P I E C E S

A N D A R E C O O K E D IN M O R E LIQ. UI D. S T E W S A R E O F T E N T H O U G H T O F A S O N E ’ D I S H M E A L S , P R O D U C I N G A

T E N D E R A N D H I G H L Y F L A V O R E D DI SH I N C L U D I N G NO T O N L Y MEAT, P O U L T R Y , OR S E A F O O D , B U T A L S O A

V A R I E T Y O F V E G E T A B L E S IN A R E D O L E N T A R O M A T I C S A U C E .

The sauce its e lf ta ke s on a deeper fla v o r and body during ste w in g as fla v o rs m ig rate fro m
the o th e r ingre die nts. It is also possible to fin is h a ste w w ith cream, herbs, o r a liaison o f
eggs and cream.
Stew s are based on th e same cuts o f m eat, p o u ltry , o r fis h as a braise. These cuts o fte n
req uire extended m o is t-h e a t cooking in o rd e r to becom e te n d e r and palatable. Trim the
fo o d o f e x te rio r and in te rio r fa t, g ris tle , and sinew. D ivide la rge r cuts along seam lines to
make it easier to cu t across th e grain f o r a m ore te n d e r fin is h e d stew. The size o f th e cut
w ill vary acco rding to th e s ty le o f stew, b u t ty p ic a lly the y are 1 in /2 .5 cm cubes. If the y are
cu t to o sm all, to o much o f th e surface area w ill be exposed and th e m eat w ill dry out.
Season fo o d s fo r ste w in g b e fo re cooking, using salt, pepper, m arinades, o r d ry rubs to
give th e fin is h e d dish a com plex and dynam ic fla vo r. S e le ct th e coo kin g liquid according to
th e fo o d being stew ed or th e recipe's recom m endation. F la vo rfu l sto c k s o r com binations
o f s to cks and sauces, v eg etab le o r f r u it ju ices, o r w a te r m ay be used. S tew s o fte n include
vegetables, bo th as an a ro m a tic com ponent and as an in te g ra l com p on ent o f th e dish.
Rinse, peel, and cu t vegetables in to un ifo rm shapes so th a t th e y w ill cook p ro pe rly. Keep
th e veg etab le s separated so th a t th e y can be added to the ste w in th e p ro p e r sequence.
Choose a heavy-gauge braising pan or rondeau w ith a lid f o r slow, even cooking. Have
a ladle o r skim m e r available to skim th e ste w as it cooks. To te s t f o r doneness, use a tab le
fo rk to cut a piece, or b ite in to a sm all po rtio n .
Some stew s call fo r the main m eat o r p o u ltry to be du sted w ith flo u r and then cooked
in h o t oil ju s t u n til i t s ta rts to s tiffe n , w ith no brow ning. O th e r stew s call f o r th e main item
to be cooked to a deep brown. Once th e m eat, p o u ltry , or fis h is p ro p e rly colored, rem ove
it fro m th e pan and keep it w arm w hile sw eating, sm othe rin g, o r bro w n ing th e a ro m atic
vegetables, if required.
W hite stew s such as blanquettes do not call fo r the main ite m to be seared b e fore the
cooking liquid is added. Instead, a seasoned cooking liquid is added d ire c tly to the uncooked
meat. O therw ise, the stew ing liquid is added to the pan w ith th e arom atics and the main item
is return ed to the stew.
M eats, p o u ltry, and fis h should be trim m e d and seasoned. It m ay be a p p ro p ria te to
d u st the se ite m s w ith flo u r. Peel and cu t fr u its and veg etab le s as necessary. Beans and
grains may req uire soaking or parcooking.

c h a p te r 20 » B R A IS IN G A N D ST EW IN G 577
 basic formula
Stewing 1 oz/28 g prepared aromatics Additional flavoring or garnishing
(1 entree portion) (mirepoix and/or other vegetables) ingredients (see individual recipes)

1 portion (8 to 10 oz/227 to Salt and other seasonings

284 g) meat, poultry, or fish (sachet d'epices or bouquet
garni, for example)
8 to 10 fl oz/240 to 300 mL cooking
liquid (stock, sauce, and/or other
flavorful liquids such as wine)

m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
1. Sear or blanch the main expert tips Q
item.

2. Remove the main item

from the pot; drain the
blanching liquid, if used.
3. Brown or sweat the
mirepoix.
4 . Return the main item to the
To thicken the stew, any one of the following may be used, de­
pending on your desired results. Flour may be added either by dusting the main
item or by adding it directly to the pan with the aromatic vegetables. To reduce
the sauce, cook it over medium heat to a good consistency.
FLO U R (R O U X ) / STARCH S L U R R Y / PUREED A R O M A T IC V EG ETAB LES /
R E D U C TIO N / BEURRE M A N IE

bed o f mirepoix in the pot.

5. Add the liquid. Additional ingredients may be added to develop more flavor.
Add some early in the cooking process to infuse flavor. Others may be added
6 . Bring the liquid to a simmer
later on so that they retain their individual flavor and/or texture.
over direct heat.
SA C H ET D ’EPIC ES / B O U Q U ET G A R N I / G ARLIC
7. Cover the pot; finish the
stew in the oven until it is
tender to the bite. FOP a healthier option: Use pureed vegetables (especially those
high in starch) to thicken the stew in place of roux or a slurry.
8. Add the sachet d'epices
or bouquet garni
and garnishes at the
appropriate times.

9. Reduce the sauce, if

necessary. (Remove the
main item firs t.)
10. Garnish the stew as
appropriate, and serve.

M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
 stews
1. heat the pan and o il and s e a rth e seasoned
m ain ite m on all sides to th e de sire d color, o r com bine the
main ite m w ith th e co o kin g liquid. B rin g th e coo kin g liquid
to a sim m e r s e p a ra te ly b e fo re po uring it over th e p re ­
pared m eat. This w ay th e co o kin g liquid can be seasoned
and th e overall coo kin g tim e sho rte ne d. It also im proves
the te x tu re o f th e dish.
S earing th e m ain ite m assists in de veloping c o lo r and
fla vo r. In o rd e r to develop a good color, th e main ite m
should n o t be added to th e p o t in q u a n titie s so large th a t
th e pieces are to u c h in g one another. If th e y to u c h , the
pan's te m p e ra tu re w ill be low ered s ig n ific a n tly , hind erin g
p ro p e r coloring. Instead, sear th e ite m in batches, and
rem ove each batch when it has developed good color.
The am o un t o f liq u id re q u ire d v a rie s fro m one c u t o f
m ea t o r p o u ltry to another. D e lica te or te n d e r foo ds, such
as fis h o r sh e llfish , may re q u ire ve ry litt le added m o istu re
to ste w succe ssfully.
Tougher cu ts may need p ro p o rtio n a te ly m ore liquid
f o r a lo ng er co o kin g tim e as w e ll as to s o fte n to u g h t is ­
sues. C onsult s p e c ific recipe s f o r guidance.

2. cover the meat or main item

co m p le te ly in th e cooking liquid. S kim m ing im proves the
flavo r, color, and te x tu re o f th e fin is h e d dish by rem oving
im p u ritie s and pa rticle s. Keep a sm all bowl nearby to hold
the skim m ed scum.
B ring th e liq u id to a sim m e r over low heat, cover the
pot, and fin is h th e s te w in a m edium oven or over low
d ire c t heat, uncovered. S tir, skim , and a d ju s t th e am ount
o f liq u id and seasoning th ro u g h o u t th e coo kin g tim e . Add
any a d d itio n a l a ro m a tics and ve g e ta b le garnish in the
p ro p e r sequence th ro u g h o u t th e coo kin g tim e f o r a rich
com plex fla v o r and p e rfe c t te x tu re . In som e dishes, some
o r all o f th e garnish is pre pa red s e p a ra te ly to m aintain
color. Add parcooked, blanched, or qu ick-co o kin g in gre­
d ie n ts as close to service tim e as reasonable. Be sure to
ta s te th e coo kin g liq u id b e fo re d e cid ing w h a t aro m atics,
if any, are needed. If th e s to c k is ve ry fla v o rfu l already, a
b o uq ue t g a rni o r sach et may n o t be necessary.

chapter 20 » B R A I S I NG A N D S T E WI NG 579
 3. before removing the meat or main
ite m to fin is h th e sauce, check a fe w pieces to be sure th a t
th e y are fu lly cooked and ten der. P ro p e rly cooked stew ed
fo o d s should be easy to cu t w ith th e side o f a ta b le fo rk .
(Texture co n tra s t, when desired, may be pro vid ed by a
fin a l garnish o r side dish.) D iscard th e sach et d'epices or
bo uq ue t garni. S tew s m ay be prepa red to th is po in t, then
cooled and s to re d f o r la te r service. C ooling the s te w makes
it easy to l i f t any f a t fro m th e surface.
Finish the stew ing liquid in to a sauce. F irst, remove the
solid ingredients w ith a s lo tte d spoon or skimmer. M oisten
them w ith a little o f the cooking liquid, cover, and keep warm.
Strain the sauce if necessary and thicken by reducing it over
d ire c t heat. Add any a d ditiona l thickeners, such as a prepared
roux or a starch slurry, and continue to cook, skim m ing as nec­
essary, u n til the sauce has good fla v o r and consistency.
R eturn th e solid in g re d ie n ts to th e sauce and re tu rn
th e ste w to a sim m er. M any stew s include a d d itio n a l com ­
ponents, such as veg etab le s, m ushroom s, p o ta to e s, or
dum plings. When th e se in g re d ie n ts are cooked along w ith
th e m ain in g re d ie n t, th e ir own fla v o rs are im proved as w ell
as th e fla v o r o f th e e n tire stew.

method in detail
4. make the final adjustments to
th e stew 's fla v o r and consistency. The fin is h e d stew should
have a v e lv e ty sauce, and each in g re d ie n t is fu lly cooked
b u t s till re ta in s its shape. Add heavy cream o r te m p e r a lia i­
son (see page 2 4 9 ) in to th e ste w as a fin is h in g and e n rich ­
ing s tep . A d ju s t th e co n siste n cy by a d d itio n a l sim m e ring if
necessary. Season w ith sa lt, pepper, lem on ju ice, o r o th e r
in g re d ie n ts. Add a d d itio n a l garnish in g re d ie n ts to th e stew
e ith e r in batches o r by in d ivid u a l servings.
Evaluate th e q u a lity o f th e stew. A w ell-m a de ste w has
a rich fla v o r and a s o ft, a lm o st m e ltin g te x tu re . The natural
ju ic e s o f th e in g re d ie n ts, along w ith th e cooking liquid, be ­
come co n ce n tra te d and p ro vid e bo th good fla v o r and a fu ll-
bodied sauce. The m ajor com p on ents in a ste w re ta in th e ir
na tural shape, alth ou gh a ce rta in am ount o f volum e may be
lo s t du rin g cooking. W hen done, a ste w is e x tre m e ly tender,
a lm o st to th e p o in t w here it can be cu t w ith a fo rk b u t not
to w here it fa lls in to shreds. This w ould in d ica te th a t the
fo o d has been overcooked. S tew s o fte n ta s te b e tte r a day
or tw o a fte r p re p a ra tio n . R eheating can ta ke place on low
d ire c t heat o r in th e oven o r m icrow ave.

580 ME A T S , POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 braising and stewing recipes
Braised Oxtails 7 . Transfer the oxtails and vegetables to a hotel pan or
Makes 10 servings other holding container and moisten with some of
the cooking liquid. Hold warm while finishing the
10 lb /4.54 kg oxtails, cut into 2-in /5-cm cross sauce.
sections
8 . Simmer the cooking liquid until it has a good flavor
2 tb sp /2 0 g salt, or as needed and consistency. Skim thoroughly to degrease the
l 3/ t ts p /3 .5 0 g ground black pepper, or as needed sauce. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and

2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil

strain.

1 lb /4 5 4 g large-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)

9 . Serve the oxtails immediately with the sauce and
vegetables or hold hot for service. Garnish with the
2 f I o z/6 0 mL tomato puree
deep-fried onions.
1 q t/9 6 0 mL dry red wine

1 q t/9 6 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)

Deep-Fried Onions
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
Makes 10 servings
6 o z/1 7 0 g carrots, tourne or cut in batonnet

6 o z/1 7 0 g celeriac, tourne or cut in batonnet 1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil

6 o z/1 7 0 g white turnips, tourne or cut in batonnet 12 o z/3 4 0 g onion, cut in julienne or thin rings

6 o z/1 7 0 g rutabaga, tourne or cut in batonnet 5 o z/1 4 2 g all-purpose flour

10 o z /2 8 4 g Deep-Fried Onions (recipe follows) Salt, as needed

1 . Season the oxtails with salt and pepper. 1 . Heat the vegetable oil in a deep fryer or a deep pot to
375°F/i9 i°C.
2 . Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over medium-
high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the oxtails 2 . Dredge the onions in the flour and shake off any ex­
carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on all cess. Deep fry until golden brown.
sides. This may need to be done in batches so that 3 . Drain on paper towels, season with salt, and hold
the rondeau is not overcrowded. Transfer the oxtails warm until ready to serve.
to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Reduce the heat to medium, add the mirepoix to the
011 and cook, stirring from time to time, until golden
brown. Add the tomato puree and cook until it turns
a deeper color and gives off a sweet aroma, about l
minute.
4 . Increase the heat to medium-high, add the wine to
the pan, stirring to release any pan drippings. Re­
duce the wine by half. Return the oxtails to the pan
along with any juices they may have released. Add
the stock to cover the oxtails by two-thirds.
5 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat and
add the sachet. Cover the pot and transfer to a
350°F/i77°C oven. Braise the oxtails for 2 hours.
6 . Add the carrots, celeriac, turnips, and rutabaga.
Continue to braise until the meat is fork-tender and
the vegetables are fully cooked, about 30 minutes,
turning the oxtails occasionally to keep them evenly
moistened.

chapter 20 » B R A I S I NG A N D S T E WI NG 581
Korean Braised Short 6 . Meanwhile, heat half of the vegetable oil in a saute
pan. Cook the egg whites to make a thin omelet.
Ribs (Kalbi Jjim) Repeat with the remaining oil and egg yolks. Cut
both the egg white and egg yolk omelets into lozenge
Makes 10 servings
shapes. Reserve.
10 dried shiitake mushrooms 7 . Remove and discard the ginger from the cooking
2 0 beef short ribs pieces (about 10 lb /4.54 kg), liquid. Add the sugar and adjust seasoning with soy
3-in/8-cm lengths sauce, if necessary. Stir in the pine nuts and sesame
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL mirin oil and cook until heated through.

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL light soy sauce, or as needed
8 o z/2 2 7 g onions, cut into 2-in /5-cm pieces
2 o z/5 7 g ginger, peeled and lightly crushed
8 . Serve the short ribs immediately with the sauce, or
hold hot for service. Garnish with the omelet
lozenges.

6 garlic cloves, chopped

2 V i o z/71 g Chinese red dates (jujubes)

1 lb /4 5 4 g sliced daikon

1 lb /4 5 4 g oblique-cut carrots

1 ts p /3 g s a lt

2 tbsp/BO mL vegetable oil

4 eggs, separated

Sugar, as needed

5 o z/1 4 2 g toasted pine nuts

1 tb s p /1 5 mL sesame oil

1 . Rehydrate the mushrooms in cool water overnight or

in warm water the day of service. Cut off the stems
and halve the mushrooms. Strain the rehydration
water and reserve.
2 . Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Blanch the short
ribs for 6 to 8 minutes to remove any impurities.
Skim the scum that forms on the surface; drain and
rinse.
3 . Place the blanched short ribs in a large pot and add
the mirin, soy sauce, onions, ginger, garlic, dates,
and enough reserved mushroom-infused water to
just cover the short ribs.
4 . Simmer over low heat until the short ribs are fork-
tender, about 2 hours, turning occasionally to keep
the beef evenly moistened.
5 . When the meat is fork-tender, add the mushrooms,
daikon, carrots, and salt and simmer until the veg­
etables are tender, about 10 minutes more.

ME A T S , POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

Braised Short Ribs
Makes 10 servings
10 beef short ribs pieces (about 8 lb 8 o z/3 .8 5 kg),
2-in/5-cm lengths
r /2 tb sp /1 5 g salt
l 3/ t ts p /3 .5 0 g ground black pepper
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g large-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
2 fl o z/6 0 mL tomato paste
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL dry red wine
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293), or
Espagnole Sauce (page 294)
2 bay leaves
Pinch dried thyme
3 fl o z/9 0 mL Madeira or sherry
1 . Season the short ribs with l tbsp/io g salt and 1V2
tsp/3 g pepper.
2.. Heat the oil in a large rondeau or brasier over
medium-high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place
the short ribs carefully in the oil and sear until deep
brown on all sides, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the
short ribs to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Reduce the heat to medium, add the mirepoix to
the oil and cook, stirring from time to time, until
golden brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Add the tomato paste
and cook until it turns a deeper color and gives off a
sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any drip­
pings. Reduce the wine by half, about 3 minutes.
Return the short ribs to the pan along with any
juices they may have released. Add enough stock and
demi-glace to cover the short ribs by two-thirds.
5 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat.
Cover the pot and transfer to a 350°F/i77°C oven.
Braise the short ribs for 45 minutes.
6 . Add the bay leaves and thyme and degrease the liq­
uid if necessary. Finish braising the short ribs until
fork-tender, about 1 hour 30 minutes more.
7 . Transfer the short ribs to a hotel pan or other hold­
ing container and moisten with some of the cooking
liquid. Hold warm while finishing the sauce.
ME A T S . POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
8 . Simmer the cooking liquid until it has a good flavor
and consistency. Skim thoroughly to degrease the
sauce. Adjust seasoning with the remaining salt and
pepper and strain. Stir in the Madeira or sherry and
bring to a simmer to cook out some of the alcohol
flavor to finish the sauce.
9 . Serve the short ribs immediately with the sauce, or
hold hot for service.
Beef Rouiaden in
Burgundy Sauce
Makes 10 servings
3 lb /1.36 kg boneless beef bottom round,
trimmed and cut into twenty 2 -o z/5 7 -g pieces
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
I V 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Rouiaden Stuffing (recipe follows)
20 gherkins
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
6 o z/1 7 0 g small-dice onions
1 ts p /3 g minced garlic
4 o z /1 1 3 g tomato puree
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Burgundy or other dry red wine
l 3/ t q t/1 .6 8 L Demi-Glace (page 293)
or Espagnole Sauce (page 294)
1 . Pound each piece of beef between sheets of parch­
ment paper or plastic wrap to a thickness of V4 in/6
mm. Blot dry and season with salt and pepper.
2 . Center 1 tbsp/15 mL of the stuffing on each piece,
top with a gherkin, roll the beef around the stuffing,
and secure with toothpicks or string. Dredge the
beef in the flour and shake off any excess.
3 . Heat the oil in a large rondeau or brasier over
medium-high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place
the beef rolls carefully in the oil and sear until deep
brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer the
beef rolls to a hotel pan and reserve.

4 . Add the onions to the oil and cook, stirring from
time to time, until golden brown, 7 to 8 minutes.
Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, 1 minute
more. Add the tomato puree and cook until it turns
a deeper color and gives off a sweet aroma, about 1
minute.
5 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any drip­
pings. Reduce by half. Return the beef rolls to the
pan along with any juices they may have released.
Add enough demi-glace to cover the rolls by
two-thirds.
6 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat.
Cover and braise in a 325°F/i 63°C oven until fork-
tender, 1 to 1V2 hours, turning occasionally to keep
the beef evenly moistened.
7 . Transfer the beef rolls to a hotel pan, moisten with
some of the cooking liquid, and hold warm.
8 . Simmer the cooking liquid over medium heat to
a good flavor and consistency. Skim thoroughly to
degrease the sauce. Adjust seasoning with salt and
pepper and strain the sauce.
9 . Serve the rouladen immediately with the sauce, or
hold hot for service.
braising and stewing recipes
Rouladen S tu ffin g
Makes 1 lb 8 oz/68o g
2 f 1o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g chopped bacon
3 o z/8 5 g minced onions
4 o z/1 1 3 g chopped lean ham
2 o z/5 7 g ground beef
2 eggs, beaten
3’/2 o z/9 9 g dried bread crumbs, or as needed
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley
1 ts p /3 g salt
V 2 ts p /1 g ground black pepper
1 . Heat the oil in a saute pan over medium-high heat.
Add the bacon and render until foamy and browned.
Add the onions and saute until tender and translu­
cent, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and let the
bacon and onions cool.
2 . Add the ham, beef, and eggs to the onion mixture-
and mix until evenly combined.
3 . Add enough bread crumbs to tighten the stuffing;
the mixture should hold together but still be moist.
Season with parsley, salt, and pepper.
4 . The stuffing is ready to use now, or may be refriger­
ated for later use.
chapter 20 » B R A I S I N G A N D STEWI NG 585
Yankee Pot Roast 6 . Add the potatoes, turnips, carrots, and pearl onions

Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg beef shoulder clod, bottom
round, or eye round, trimmed
4 ts p /1 2 g s a lt
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice onions
6 o z/1 7 0 g tomato puree
8 f I o z/2 2 7 mL dry red wine
l 3/ t q t/1 .6 8 L Brown Veal Stock (page 262)
24 fI o z/7 2 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293)
or Espagnole Sauce (page 294)
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241)
and finish braising until the beef is fork-tender and
the vegetables are fully cooked, 35 to 45 minutes
more.
7 . Transfer the beef and vegetables to a hotel pan or
other holding container and moisten with some of
the cooking liquid. Hold warm while finishing the
sauce.
8 . Simmer the cooking liquid over medium heat until it
has a good flavor and consistency. Skim thoroughly
to degrease the sauce. Adjust seasoning with the re­
maining salt and pepper, if necessary.
9 . Remove the string from the beef, slice it into serv­
ings, and serve immediately with the sauce and veg­
etables, or hold hot for service.

10 new potatoes (4 lb 4 o z/1.92 kg), halved

10 baby turnips (8 o z/2 2 7 g), halved

20 baby carrots (8 o z/2 2 7 g), peeled

60 pearl onions (1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g), blanched and peeled

1 . Season the beef with 2 tsp/6.50 g salt and V2 tsp/i g

pepper and tie it.
2 . Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over medium-
high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the beef
carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on all
sides, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the beef to a
hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Reduce the heat to medium, add the onions to the
011 and cook, stirring from time to time, until golden
brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the tomato puree and
cook until it turns a deeper color and gives off a
sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any
pan drippings. Reduce the wine by half. Return the
beef to the pan along with any juices it may have
released. Add enough stock and demi-glace to come
about halfway up the beef.
5 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat.
Cover the pot and transfer it to a 3250 to 350^/163°
to 177°C oven. Braise the beef for 1V2 hours, turning
occasionally to keep it evenly moistened. Add the
sachet and degrease the liquid if necessary.

ME A T S , POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 braising and stewing recipes
Sauerbraten 6 . Add the mirepoix to the oil and cook, stirring from
Makes 10 servings time to time, until golden brown. Add the tomato
paste and cook until it turns a deeper color and
MARINADE gives off a sweet aroma, about 1 minute.

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL dry red wine 7 . Add the reserved marinade to the pan, stirring to
release any drippings. Add the marinade solids sa­
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine vinegar
chet to the pan. Reduce the marinade by half.
2 q t/1 .9 2 L w a te r
8 . Add the flour to the butter in a small saute pan
12 o z/3 4 0 g sliced onions to make a roux. Cook the roux until golden, 4 to
8 black peppercorns 5 minutes. Cool slightly before whisking into the
10 juniper berries
reduced marinade.

2 bay leaves
9 . Whisk in the stock and bring to a simmer. Return
the beef to the pan along with any juices it may
2 cloves
have released. Cover the pan and simmer over low
heat until the beef is tender, 3V2 to 4V2 hours.
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless beef bottom round
1 0 . Transfer the beef to a hotel pan or other holding
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g salt, or as needed
container and moisten with some of the cooking
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper, or as needed liquid. Hold warm while finishing the sauce.
3 f I o z/9 0 mL vegetable oil 1 1 . Simmer the cooking liquid until it has a good fla­
1 lb /4 5 4 g Standard Mirepoix (page 243) vor and consistency, 30 to 35 minutes. Skim thor­
oughly to degrease the sauce.
4 o z /1 1 3 g tomato paste
1 2 . Add the gingersnaps and cook until the ginger-
2 o z/5 7 g all-purpose flour
snaps dissolve, about 10 minutes. Strain the sauce
3 tb sp /5 g clarified butter
through cheesecloth. Adjust seasoning with salt
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263) and pepper, if necessary.
3 o z/8 5 g gingersnaps, pulverized 1 3 . Remove the string from the beef, slice into serv­
ings, and serve immediately with the sauce, or
1 . To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients hold hot for service.
in a medium nonreactive saucepan and bring to a
boil. Cool to room temperature and refrigerate.
2 . Season the beef with salt and pepper and tie it.
Place the beef in the marinade. Refrigerate for 3 to
5 days, turning it twice per day.
3 . Remove the meat from the marinade. Dry thor­
oughly and season again with salt and pepper.
4 . Strain the marinade and reserve the liquid and
solids separately. Bring the strained marinade to a
simmer and skim off the scum. Place the solids in
cheesecloth and tie as for a sachet d epices.
5 . Heat the oil in a medium rondeau or brasier over
medium-high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place
the beef carefully in the oil and sear until deep
brown on all sides. Transfer the beef to a hotel pan
and reserve.

chapter 20 » B R A I S I N G A N D S TE WI N G 587
Mole Negro 3 . Dry roast the reserved chile seeds in a 6-in/i5-cm
cast-iron skillet over medium heat until black­
Makes 10 servings
ened, but not burned, 15 to 20 minutes. (This step
2 'A o z/6 4 g guajillo chiles, seeds and should only be undertaken with good ventilation
veins removed, seeds reserved or in an outdoor area.)
V/2 o z/4 3 g ancho chiles, seeds and 4 . Soak the seeds in hot water for 10 minutes. Drain
veins removed, seeds reserved
and discard the water.
V 2 o z/1 4 g chipotle meco chiles, seeds
5 . Dry roast the onions, tomatoes, and tomatillos in
and veins removed, seeds reserved
the large cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Keep
1 lb 3 o z/5 39 g white onions
turning until blistered and soft, about 15 minutes.
1 lb /4 5 4 g plum tomatoes Remove and reserve.
8 o z/2 2 7 g tomatillos 6 . Dry roast the garlic in the small cast-iron skillet
1 o z/2 8 g garlic cloves, unpeeled over medium heat until the papery skin begins to
brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and
8 'A o z/2 3 4 g lard, or as needed
discard the papery skin.
9 o z/2 5 5 g peeled, sliced ripe plantain
7 . Heat the lard in a 6-in/i5-cm saute pan over me­
2 'A o z/6 4 g brioche dium heat and fry the plantain until dark brown,
V2 o z/1 4 g whole almonds about 5 minutes. Drain the plantains in a strainer
3/ * o z/21 g pecans and reserve the strained lard.

V2 o z/1 4 g peanuts 8 . Repeat the same procedure with the following

ingredients, frying each separately until golden
2 tb s p /1 8 g raisins
brown and straining to remove as much lard as pos­
2 o z/5 7 g sesame seeds sible: brioche, almonds, pecans, peanuts, raisins,
1 ts p /2 g ground Mexican cinnamon and sesame seeds.

5 black peppercorns 9 . Dry roast the cinnamon, peppercorns, cloves,

oregano, marjoram, and thyme in a small saute pan
3 cloves
over medium heat until fragrant, about 1 minute.
V 2 tsp /1 g Mexican oregano

V2 tsp /1 g dried marjoram

10 . Puree the chiles and chile seeds in a blender with
about 16 fl oz/480 mL water, or as needed to form
V2 tsp /1 g dried thyme a smooth paste. Pass the paste through a fine-mesh
3 avocado leaves strainer and set aside.

1 q t/9 6 0 mL Chicken Broth (page 334) 11 . Heat 3 fl oz/90 mL of the reserved lard in a ron­
deau or brasier over medium heat. Reduce the heat
5 o z/1 42 g Mexican chocolate, broken into pieces
to medium-low and fry the chile puree until most
2 tb s p /2 0 g s a lt
of the liquid is evaporated, about 5 minutes. (You
Sugar, as needed should be able to see the bottom of the pan when
4 whole chicken legs, poached stirring.)

4 chicken breasts, skinless, boneless, poached
1 . Dry roast guajillos, anchos, and chipotles in a
i2-in/30-cm cast-iron skillet over medium heat until
blackened but not burned.
2 . Soak the toasted chiles in hot water for 15 minutes.
Drain and discard the water.
12 . Puree the roasted vegetables, spices, and all the
fried ingredients in a blender with water as needed
to form a smooth puree. Pass the mixture through
a fine-mesh strainer and set aside.
1 3 . Add the pureed vegetable mixture to the chile pu­
ree when you can see the bottom of the pan when
scraped and the oil rises to the top of the puree.
Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the mole
covers the back of a spoon and you can see the bot­
tom of the pan when scraped, about 30 minutes.

M E A T S , P O U L T R Y FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

1 4 . Toast the avocado leaves in a dry saute pan over
medium heat until fragrant. Add the whole leaves
to the mole.
1 5 . Add 16 fl oz/480 mL of the broth and keep stirring
on a low simmer for 1 hour.
1 6 . Add the chocolate and stir until dissolved. Season
with the salt and sugar.
1 7 . Continue simmering and stirring occasionally for
1 hour more. Add more water or broth if the mole
becomes too thick.
1 8 . Add the poached chicken to the mole and cook to
heat through, about 5 minutes.
1 9 . Adjust seasoning with salt, sugar, and chocolate.
Remove and discard the avocado leaves. The mole
is ready to serve now or may be rapidly cooled and
refrigerated for later use.
NOTES: Serve the mole negro w ith arroz bianco and warm
corn tortillas.
Mole negro sauce w ill keep up to two weeks,
refrigerated, but should be reheated and diluted with
warm w ater every three days. Mole negro w ill keep fo r up
to two months frozen.
Beef Stew
Makes 10 servings
7 lb 8 o z/3.40 kg boneless beef shank
or chuck, cut into 2-in /5-cm cubes
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
I V 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
5 o z/1 4 2 g minced onion
5 garlic cloves, minced
2 f I o z/6 0 mL tomato paste (optional)
30 f I o z/9 0 0 mL red wine
40 fl o z/1.20 L Brown Veal Stock
(page 263), or as needed
2 'A q t/2 .4 0 L Espagnole Sauce (page 294)
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
1 Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241)
2 o z/5 7 g butter
braising and stewing recipes
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g carrots, large dice
or batonnet, blanched
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g white turnips, large
dice or batonnet, blanched
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g rutabaga, large
dice or batonnet, blanched
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g green beans, cut into
l-in /3 -c m pieces, blanched
V 2 o z /1 4 g chopped parsley
1 . Season the beef with the salt and pepper.
2.. Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over medium-
high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the beef
carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on as
many sides as possible. This may need to be done in
batches. Transfer the beef to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Degrease the pan, if necessary. Add the onions to the
oil and cook, stirring from time to time, until cara­
melized. Add the garlic and tomato paste, if using,
and cook until the tomato paste turns a deeper color
and gives off a sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any drip­
pings. Reduce the wine by three-quarters. Return
the beef to the pan along with any juices it may have
released.
5 . Add the veal stock, espagnole sauce, sachet, and bou­
quet garni. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-
low heat. Cover the pot and stew the beef until ten­
der, about 2 hours. Add more stock during cooking,
if necessary. Skim and degrease the stew as it cooks.
6 . Remove and discard the sachet and bouquet garni.
7 . At service, heat the butter and chicken stock in a
large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the car­
rots, turnips, rutabaga, and green beans and toss to
coat until the stock has reduced and the vegetables
are hot. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
8 . Serve the stew immediately with the vegetables or
hold hot for service. Garnish with the parsley.
chapter 20 » B R A I S I N G A N D STEWI NG 589
 Braised Pork Rolls 2. To make the filling, soak the bread in the milk un­
til soft. Squeeze the bread to remove excess mois­
and Sausage in Meat ture. Combine the bread with the pine nuts, 1V2
oz/43 g of the parsley, the minced garlic, 1V2 oz/
Sauce with Rigatoni 43 g of the Parmesan, 1V2 oz/43 g of the pecorino,
and the raisins. Season with salt and pepper.
( B r o c i o l e d i M a i a l e a l 3 . Cover each slice of pork with a small piece of pro­
sciutto. Spread the filling over the slices, leaving
R a g u e R i g a t o n i ) about V2 in/i cm at the edge. Lay a batonnet of
Makes 10 servings provolone over the filling on each piece.
4 . Roll the pork over the filling and tie into bundles
5 lb /2.27 kg pork butt, thinly sliced
with twine. Season the outside of the rolls with salt
9 o z/2 5 5 g crustless bread, dried, and pepper.
cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes
5 . Heat half of the oil in a rondeau or brasier over
12 o z/3 6 0 mL milk
medium-high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place
V / 2 o z/4 3 g toasted pine nuts the pork rolls carefully in the oil and sear until
V A o z/5 0 g chopped parsley deep brown on all sides. Transfer the pork rolls to a
hotel pan and reserve.
1 o z/2 8 g minced garlic
6 . Reduce the heat to low, add the crushed garlic to
2 o z/5 7 g finely grated Parmesan
the oil, and cook, stirring from time to time, until
2 o z/5 7 g finely grated pecorino
golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove and discard
2 3/4 o z /7 8 g raisins the garlic.
1 ts p /3 g salt, or as needed 7 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any drip­
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper pings. Reduce until almost dry, about 8 minutes. Add
the tomatoes and bring the mixture to a simmer.
4 o z/1 1 3 g thinly sliced prosciutto
Return the pork rolls to the pan along with any juices
4 o z/1 1 3 g provolone, cut into thin batonnets
they may have released. Add the red pepper flakes
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil and bay leaves. Adjust seasoning with salt and
2 o z/5 7 g garlic, peeled and crushed pepper.

8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL red wine 8 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat.

12 lb 8 o z/5 .6 7 kg peeled plum tomatoes,
passed through a food mill, with liquid
1 ts p /2 g red pepper flakes
3 bay leaves
2 lb /9 0 7 g fennel sausage
1 lb /4 5 4 g rigatoni pasta, cooked
2 tb sp /6 g basil chiffonade
1 . Pound each portion of pork between sheets of
parchment paper or plastic wrap into a piece 8 by
8 in/20 by 20 cm and Vs in/3 mm thick. Use the
rough side of the mallet to tenderize the meat. Re
frigerate.
Cover and braise until fork-tender, about 1 hour,
turning occasionally to keep the pork evenly
moistened.
9 . Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a heavy saute
pan. Add the sausage and cook slowly over low
heat until golden brown, about 15 minutes.
1 0 . Add the sausage to the pork rolls after 1 hour and
cook for 30 minutes more.
1 1 . Allow the braised pork rolls, sausage, and sauce to
rest for 30 minutes. Degrease, if necessary.
1 2 . Remove the strings from the pork rolls and serve
immediately on a bed of rigatoni with the sausage
and sauce, or hold everything hot for service. Gar­
nish with the remaining Parmesan, pecorino, pars­
ley, and the basil.

590 M E A T S , POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 braising and stewing recipes
Choucroute Homemade Sauerkraut
Makes 10 servings Makes about 2 gal/y.68 L

1 lb 14 o z/8 51 g smoked pork loin 20 lb /9 .0 7 kg shredded green

cabbage, 2-in /5-cm lengths
S a lt as needed
8 o z /2 2 7 g salt
Ground black pepper, as needed

10 beef frankfurters
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g garlic sausage
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL rendered goose fat,
lard, or vegetable shortening
10 o z/2 8 4 g sliced onions
1 o z/2 8 g minced garlic
1 . Toss the cabbage with the salt until evenly
combined.
2 . Line a food-grade plastic bucket with cheesecloth.
Place the salted cabbage in the bucket and fold the
cheesecloth over the top. Press firmly to pack the
cabbage down and create an even surface.

2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg Homemade
Sauerkraut (recipe follows)
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL dry white wine
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page
241), plus 6 juniper berries
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g slab bacon, cut into
slices 1 by 2 in /3 by 5 cm
3 lb 12 o z/1 .7 0 kg russet potatoes, tourne
3 . Weight the top of the cabbage and cover with plastic
wrap. Label with the date. Let the sauerkraut fer­
ment at room temperature for 10 days. Remove the
weights, cover well, and refrigerate.
4 . The sauerkraut is ready to serve now, or it may be
refrigerated for later service. Rinse the sauerkraut in
cool running water to remove a little of the excess
salt before using.

1 . Season the pork with salt and pepper and tie, if nec­
essary. Prick the frankfurters and sausages in 5 or 6
places to prevent them from bursting. Reserve in the
refrigerator.
2 . Heat the fat in a rondeau or brasier over medium
heat. Add the onions and garlic and sweat them in
the fat without browning. Add the sauerkraut to the
onion mixture.
3 . Add the wine and sachet and stir. Bring the liquid up
to a simmer.
4 . Place the pork and bacon on top of the sauerkraut.
Cover the pan and braise in a 325°F/i63°C oven for
approximately 45 minutes. Add the frankfurters and
sausages to the pan, return the cover, and continue
to cook until the pork, frankfurters, and sausages
reach an internal temperature of i55°F/68°C, 15 to
20 minutes.
5 . Transfer the meat to a hotel pan and hold warm. Re­
move and discard the sachet.
6 . Add the potatoes to the sauerkraut and simmer until
the potatoes are fully cooked, about 15 minutes. Ad­
just seasoning with salt and pepper.
7 . Slice the pork, frankfurters, and sausages and serve
immediately on a bed of sauerkraut and potatoes, or
hold everything hot for service.

chapter 20 » B R A I S I NG A N D S TE WI N G 593
 Cassoulet
Makes 12 servings
BEAN STEW
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
2 lb /9 0 7 g dried navy beans, soaked overnight
1 lb /4 5 4 g slab bacon, cut into slices !/t in /6 mm thick
1 lb /4 5 4 g garlic sausage
2 medium onions
1 o z/2 8 g chopped garlic
1 Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241)
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
MEAT STEW
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g boneless pork loin,
cut into 2-in/5-cm cubes
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g boneless lamb shoulder
or leg, cut into 2-in /5-cm cubes
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
3 fl o z/9 0 mL olive oil
1 lb /4 5 4 g White Mirepoix (page 243)
'/ 2 ts p /1.50 g garlic paste
3 fl o z/9 0 mL white wine
8 o z/2 2 7 g tomato concasse
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 2 9 3)
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g Duck Confit (page 595)
12 o z/3 4 0 g dried bread crumbs
2 tb s p /6 g chopped parsley
1 . To make the bean stew, bring the chicken stock to a
boil in a large sauce pot and add the beans and ba­
con. Return to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes.
2. Add the sausage, onions, garlic, and bouquet garni.
Return to a boil and cook until the sausage reaches
150°F/66°C and the bacon is fork-tender, about 30
minutes. Remove the sausage, bacon, onion, and
bouquet garni. Reserve the bacon and sausage.
3 . Add the salt and continue to cook the beans until
tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain the beans and re­
serve; reduce the stock by half, until it is beginning
594 M E A T S , P OUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
to become a nappe consistency, about 30 minutes.
Reserve the sauce for later use.
4 . To make the meat stew, season the pork and lamb
with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a medium
rondeau or brasier over medium-high heat until it
starts to shimmer. Place the pork and lamb care­
fully in the oil and sear until deep brown on as
many sides as possible. Transfer the meat to a hotel
pan and reserve.
5 . Degrease the pan, if necessary. Add the mirepoix to
the oil and cook over medium heat, stirring from
time to time, until caramelized, about 11 minutes.
Add the garlic paste and cook until aromatic, about
1 minute.
6 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any
drippings. Reduce the wine until almost dry. Re­
turn the pork and lamb to the pan along with any
juices they may have released.
7 . Add the concasse, sachet d’epices, demi-glace,
and veal stock. Bring to a gentle simmer over
medium-low heat. Cover the pot and transfer it
to a 275°F/i35°C oven. Braise the meat until fork-
tender, about 1 hour.
8 . Transfer the meats to a hotel pan or other holding
container and moisten with some of the cooking
liquid. Hold warm while finishing the sauce.
9 . Simmer the cooking liquid until it has a good fla­
vor and consistency. Skim thoroughly to degrease
the sauce. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper,
and strain. Pour the sauce over the meat and hold
hot for service.
1 0 . Peel the reserved sausage and slice it into slices %
in/2 cm thick. Cut the bacon in slices % in/2 cm
thick. Place the sausage, bacon, pork, and lamb in
a casserole.
1 1 . Cover the meat with half of the beans, then the
duck confit, and then the remaining beans.
12 . Pour the sauce from the beans over the mixture
and sprinkle with the bread crumbs and parsley.
Bake the cassoulet in a 300°F/i49°C oven until it is
heated through and a good crust has formed, about
1 hour.
1 3 . Serve immediately or hold hot for service.
 braising and stewing recipes
Duck Confit V/ 2 o z/4 3 g jalapenos, seeded

Makes 4 lb/1.81 kg 2 3A o z/7 8 g roughly chopped cilantro

3A o z/21 g salt
2 ’/2 oz/71 gsalt
3A o z/2 1 g cilantro sprigs
V* tsp /1 g curing salt

V* ts p /0.50 g ground black pepper

1 . Place the beans in a small pot and cover with water.
2 juniper berries, crushed Simmer over medium-low heat until completely ten­
1 bay leaf, crushed der, about 1 hour. Add more water throughout the
cooking process, if necessary. Reserve the beans in
'/* ts p /0.75 g chopped garlic
their cooking liquid.
12 whole duck legs (6 to 7 lb /2.72 to 3.18 kg)
2 . Bring a large pot of water to a boil while the beans
2 4 fl o z/7 2 0 mL rendered duck fat
are simmering. Blanch the pork for 6 minutes in
simmering water to remove any impurities. Skim the
1 . Mix together the 2 salts, pepper, juniper berries, bay scum that forms on the surface; drain and rinse.
leaf, and garlic. Coat the duck legs with the season­
3 . Place the blanched pork in a large pot and add the
ing mixture. Place the duck in a container with a
stock. Simmer over low heat until the pork is tender,
weighted lid and press the duck for 72 hours in the
about 2 hours.
refrigerator.
4 . Fire-roast the Anaheim chiles until the skin blackens
2 . Brush off the excess seasoning mixture or lightly rise
and the flesh is tender, 6 to 8 minutes, turning fre­
and blot dry. Place the duck in a rondeau or brasier
quently. Place the peppers in a bowl and cover with
and cover it with the rendered duck fat. Stew the
plastic wrap to steam. When cool, peel and remove
meat in the fat over medium-low heat or covered in
the stems and seeds. Reserve.
a 300°F/i49°C oven until it is very tender, about 2
5 . Heat the oil in a medium saute pan over medium-
hours.
high heat. Add the onions and garlic and sweat until
3 . Cool and store the duck legs in the cooking fat.
the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the
4 . When ready to use the confit, scrape away any ex­ onions and garlic to the pork.
cess fat and broil the duck on a rack until the skin
6 . Add the potatoes and beans to the pork and simmer
is crisp, about 2 minutes, or heat in a 450°F/232°C
until the potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes.
oven. Use as needed.
7 . Place the roasted peppers, jalapenos, and chopped
cilantro in a blender and puree until completely
smooth. Add some of the cooking liquid from the
stew to facilitate pureeing. Strain the mixture
New Mexican Green through a large-holed strainer, if desired.

Chile Stew 8 . Add the puree to the stew just before serving. Sim­
mer for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the salt.
Makes 10 servings
9 . Serve immediately or hold hot for service. Garnish
8 o z/2 2 7 g dried white beans, soaked overnight with roughly chopped cilantro sprigs.

3 lb 8 o z/1.59 kg boneless pork shoulder, large dice

2 V 2 q t/2 .4 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263)

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g Anaheim chiles

2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil

12 o z/3 4 0 g smalt-dice onion

1 o z/2 8 g minced garlic

2 lb /9 0 7 g russet potatoes, medium dice

chapter 20 » B R A I S I NG A N D S T E WI N G 595
Pork Vindaloo golden brown. Add 20 fl oz/6oo mL of the spice paste
Makes 20 servings and cook until aromatic. Combine the tomato paste
and vinegar and add to the pot. Cook until most of the
SPICE PASTE water has evaporated and the mixture is almost dry.

1 ts p /2 g cloves 5 . Drain the marinade from the pork and add the pork
to the pot. Stir to cover the pork cubes with the spice
1 ts p /2 g cardamom pods
mixture.
3 tb sp /1 8 g cumin seeds
6 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat.
20 garlic cloves, thinly sliced Cover the pot and stew the pork until tender, stir­
5 o z/1 4 2 g sliced ginger ring occasionally to make sure that the meat does
not scorch or burn. Skim and degrease the stew as it
2 tb sp /1 2 g ground turmeric
cooks.
6 tb sp /9 0 mL coriander seeds
7 . Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately
4'/2 ts p /9 g methi seeds
or hold hot for service.
14 o z/3 9 7 g dried red chiles

18 f I o z/5 4 0 mL palm vinegar

3'/2 o z/9 9 g sugar

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL strained tamarind pulp Pork in a Green Curry

3 o z/8 5 g salt
Sauce
1 tb sp /6 g ground cinnamon
Makes 10 servings
PORK MARINADE
2 /2 q t/2 .4 0 L coconut milk
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL palm vinegar
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Green Curry Paste (page 370)
3'/2 o z/9 9 g sugar
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless pork butt,
2 tb sp /12 g Korean chili powder cut into 2-in /5-cm cubes
1 tb sp /6 g ground turmeric 12 kaffir lime leaves, bruised

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL fish sauce

15 lb/6.8 kg boneless pork butt,
cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes 2 'A oz/71 g palm sugar

12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL ghee or vegetable oil 1 lb /4 5 4 g Thai eggplants, quartered

4 medium onions, large dice 50 Thai basil leaves

6 o z/1 7 0 g tomato paste 3 or 4 Thai chiles, cut in fine julienne

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL palm vinegar

6 tb sp /6 0 g salt, or as needed
1 . Skim the thick coconut cream from the top of the
coconut milk; place the cream in a large sauce pot
Ground black pepper, as needed
and cook, stirring constantly, until the cream begins
to separate.
1 . Combine all the ingredients for the spice paste.
2 . Stir in the curry paste and cook until aromatic, at
Cover and refrigerate for l day.
least 2 minutes. Add the pork and lime leaves and
2 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade. Pour mix well to coat the pork.
over the pork, toss well, cover, and refrigerate over­
3 . Add the fish sauce, sugar, and remaining coconut milk.
night.
Bring to a simmer; add the eggplant, and continue to
3 . Puree the spice paste mixture in a blender to make a simmer until the pork is tender and cooked through.
coarse paste.
4 . Remove the pan from the heat, add the basil, and
4 . Heat the ghee over medium-high heat in a medium mix well.
rondeau or brasier. Add the onions and saute until
5 . Serve immediately or hold hot for service. Garnish
with the chiles.
M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

Szekely Goulash
(S z e k e l y G u l y a s )
Makes 10 servings
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice slab bacon
1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice onions
4 ts p /8 g sweet paprika, or as needed
3 lb 8 o z/1.59 kg boneless pork leg or
shoulder, cut into 3/t-in /2 -c m cubes
4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg drained and rinsed
Homemade Sauerkraut (page 593)
V /2 q t/1 .4 4 L White Beef Stock (page 263) or
Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed
2 o z/5 7 g all-purpose flour, mixed
with water to make a slurry
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL sour cream
10 o z/2 8 4 g slab bacon, rind on, cut into thick slices
1 . Render the diced bacon over medium heat in a large
pot until crisp, about 10 minutes. Remove the bacon
from the pan and reserve.
2 . Add the onions to the fat and saute over medium-
high heat until translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove
the pot from the heat.
3 . Add i tbsp/6 g of the paprika and the pork to the
pan, cover, and cook over low heat for 30 minutes,
stirring periodically. (Be careful not to cook out the
moisture and burn the paprika.)
4 . Add the sauerkraut. Pour enough stock over the sau­
erkraut to cover. Bring to a simmer, cover the pot,
and cook until the meat is fork-tender, about 1 hour.
5 . Combine the flour slurry with 8 fl oz/240 mL of the
sour cream. Add the slurry mixture to the goulash
and simmer for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the sauce has
thickened sufficiently.
6 . To make “coxcombs,” make incisions (V2 to % in/i to
2 cm) into the rind of each slice of bacon at intervals
of V2 to % in/i to 2 cm. Saute the bacon until crisp
and brown. Dip the tips of the coxcombs in the re­
maining paprika and hold them warm until ready to
serve.
7 . Serve the goulash immediately with the remaining
sour cream on top, or hold ungarnished and hot for
service. Garnish with the coxcombs.
braising and stewing recipes
Veal Blanquette
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless veal breast, excess
fa t removed, cut into 2-in/5-cm cubes
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
V2 tsp /1 g ground white pepper
2 q t/1 .9 2 L White Veal Stock (page 263), White Beef
Stock (page 263), or Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241)
8 o z/2 2 7 g Blond or White Roux (page 246)
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g white mushrooms, stewed
in butter and/or stock until tender
12 o z/3 4 0 g pearl onions, blanched and peeled
2 egg yolks, beaten
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream
Lemon juice, as needed
1 . Season the veal with salt and pepper.
2 . Heat the stock in a medium sauce pot to a simmer
and season with salt and pepper as needed. Place the
veal in a second pot and pour the heated stock over it.
Bring to a simmer, stirring, and skim as necessary to
remove impurities. Simmer for 1 hour.
3 . Add the bouquet garni. Continue to simmer until
the veal is tender to the bite, 30 to 45 minutes more.
Transfer the veal from the liquid to a hotel pan and
hold warm.
4 . Add the roux to the simmering liquid, whisking to com­
bine well, and return to a full boil. Reduce the heat and
simmer, stirring and skimming as necessary, until the
sauce is thickened and flavorful, 20 to 30 minutes.
5 . Return the veal and any juices it has released to the
sauce, along with the mushrooms and pearl onions.
Simmer until hot. (The stew may be cooled rapidly
and refrigerated for later service. Return cooled stew
to a simmer before adding the liaison.)
6 . Combine the egg yolks and cream to make a liaison.
Temper the liaison with some of the simmering liquid
and add to the stew. Return the stew to a slow simmer
and cook until it is lightly thickened and has reached
i65°F/74°C. (T oo much heat and/or cooking will co­
agulate the egg yolks.) Add lemon juice and adjust
seasoning with salt and pepper.
7 . Serve the blanquette immediately or hold hot for later
service.
c h a p te r 20 » B R A IS IN G A N D ST EW IN G 597
Braised Veal Breast
with Mushroom
Sausage
Makes 15 to 20 servings
1 boneless veal breast (about 8 lb /3.63 kg)
1 tb sp /1 0 g salt, or more as needed
V / 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper, or more as needed
2 lb 12 o z/1.25 kg Mushroom Sausage (recipe follows)
2 fI o z/6 0 mL olive oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
2 o z/5 7 g tomato paste
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL dry white wine
16 fl o z/4 80 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293)
or Jus de Veau Lie (page 293)
1 . Butterfly the veal breast and pound to an even thick­
ness. Season with salt and pepper. Center the sau­
sage on the breast, roll the veal around the sausage
with the grain, and tie to secure.
2 . Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over medium-
high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the veal
carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on all
sides. Transfer the veal to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Add the mirepoix to the oil and cook, stirring from
time to time, until golden brown, 7 to 8 minutes.
Add the tomato paste and cook until it turns a deep­
er color and gives off a sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any pan
drippings. Reduce by half. Return the veal to the
pan along with any juices it may have released. Add
enough stock and demi-glace or jus lie to cover the
veal by two-thirds.
5 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat.
Cover and braise in a 350°F/i77°C oven until fork-
tender, 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours, turning occa­
sionally to keep the veal evenly moistened.
6 . Transfer the veal to a hotel pan, moisten with some
of the cooking liquid, and hold warm.
7 . Simmer the cooking liquid to a good flavor and consis­
tency. Skim thoroughly to degrease the sauce. Adjust
seasoning with salt and pepper and strain the sauce.
M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
8 . Remove the strings and slice the veal into servings.
Serve immediately with the sauce or hold hot for
service.
Mushroom Sausage
Makes 2 lb 12 o z /1.25 kg
SPICE MIXTURE
2 ts p /6 g onion powder
1 ts p /3 g salt
3A ts p /4 g Pate Spice (page 1011)
'/ 2 ts p /3 g anise seed
]A ts p /0 .7 5 g garlic powder
1A ts p /0.50 g Spanish paprika
'A ts p /0.50 g cayenne
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g veal shank or lean pork, diced
6 o z/1 7 0 g cooked white rice
3'/2 o z/9 9 g minced onion
3 fI o z/9 0 mL heavy cream
3 egg whites
7 o z/1 9 8 g white mushrooms, diced
1 . Combine all the ingredients for the spice mixture.
Scatter over the meat and toss to coat evenly. Refrig­
erate until needed.
2.. Grind the seasoned meat through a coarse die of
a meat grinder. Fold the rice and onions into the
ground meat and grind a second time through a fine
die. (Chill the mixture if its temperature rises above
40°F/4°C.)
3 . Working over an ice bath, add the cream and egg
whites and mix by hand until evenly blended. Fold
in the mushrooms.
4 . The sausage is ready to use now, or may be refriger­
ated for later use.
 braising and stewing recipes
Pork Goulash 6 . Skim thoroughly to degrease the stew. Remove and
discard the sachet. Adjust seasoning with salt and
Makes 10 portions
pepper. Serve the stew in heated bowls garnished
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless pork shoulder, with sour cream.
cut into 2-in /5-cm cubes

3/ t o z/21 g Hungarian paprika Beef Goulash: Replace the pork w ith an equal amount of
boneless beef round or chuck.
Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

3 o z/8 5 g vegetable oil or lard

3 lb /1.36 kg small-dice onion

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL dry white wine

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Jus de Veau Lie (page 293)

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)

SACHET D'EPICES

1 ts p /3 g grated lemon zest

1 ts p /2 g caraway seeds

V i tsp /1 g dried marjoram

V i tsp /1 g dried savory

V a ts p /0 .5 0 g dried thyme

Va ts p /0 .5 0 g black peppercorns

2 bay leaves

2 garlic cloves

8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL sour cream

1 . Season the pork with the paprika, salt, and pepper.

2 . Heat the oil or lard in a rondeau or brasier over me-
dium-high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the
pork carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown
on all sides. This may have to be done in batches.
Transfer the pork to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Add the onions to the pan and cook, stirring from
time to time, until golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes.
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any drip­
pings. Reduce the wine by half. Return the pork to
the pan along with any juices it may have released.
Add the jus lie and enough stock to completely cover
the pork.
5 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat.
Tie all the sachet ingredients in cheesecloth and add
the sachet. Cover the pot and continue to cook over
low heat, or transfer to a 35o°F/i77°C oven. Stew the
pork until the pork is fork-tender, about l hour 15
minutes.

c h a p te r 20 » B R A IS IN G A N D STEW ING 599

Osso Buco Milanese w ith R isotto alia Milanese (page 783)

Osso Buco Milanese
Makes 10 servings
10 veal shank crosscuts, V / 2 in /4 cm
thick (about 12 o z/3 4 0 g each)
1 tb sp /1 0 g salt, or as needed
I V 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper, or as needed
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL olive oil
2 o z/5 7 g all-purpose flour
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice Standard
Mirepoix (page 243), separate
braising and stewing recipes
6 . Transfer the veal shanks to a hotel pan or other hold­
ing container and moisten with some of the cooking
liquid. Remove the string from around the shanks.
Hold warm while finishing the sauce.
7 . Simmer the remaining cooking liquid until it has
a good flavor and consistency. Skim thoroughly to
degrease. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and
strain. Hold hot for service.
8 . Serve the veal shanks immediately with the sauce
and gremolata, or hold them hot for service.

1 ts p /3 g minced garlic Gremolata

3 o z/8 5 g tomato paste Makes 7 oz/ig8 g

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL dry white wine

5 o z/1 4 2 g fresh bread crumbs
2 qt /1 .9 2 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
V2 o z/1 4 g orange zest, blanched, minced
1 Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241)
V2 o z/1 4 g lemon zest, blanched, minced
1 o z/2 8 g Gremolata (recipe follows)
4 garlic cloves, minced

V2 o z/1 4 g chopped parsley

1 . Season the veal with salt and pepper and tie a string
around the shanks to keep them together. Salt, as needed

2 . Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over medium- Ground black pepper, as needed
high heat until it starts to shimmer. Lightly dredge
the veal in flour and shake off the excess. Place the 1 . Spread the bread crumbs in an even, thin layer on a
shanks carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown dry sheet pan and toast them in a 400°F/204°C oven
on all sides. Transfer the shanks to a hotel pan and until lightly browned, about 7 minutes. Transfer to a
reserve. bowl and reserve.
3 . Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the onions 2 . Add the orange and lemon zests, garlic, parsley, salt,
from the mirepoix to the oil and cook, stirring from and pepper to the bread crumbs. Toss to combine.
time to time, until golden brown. Add the carrots
3 . The gremolata is ready to use now, or may be refrig­
and celery and cook until just beginning to soften.
erated for later use.
Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook until the
tomato paste turns a deeper color and gives off a NOTE: For a more traditional gremolata, combine V 2 oz/14 g
sweet aroma, about 1 minute. minced garlic, 3/4 oz/21 g grated lemon zest, I V 2 oz/
43 g chopped parsley, and, if desired, V 4 oz/7 g minced
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any drip­
anchovy fille ts.
pings. Reduce the wine by half. Return the shanks
to the pan along with any juices they may have re­
leased. Add enough stock to cover the veal by
two-thirds.
5 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat.
Cover the pot and transfer it to a 325°F/i63°C oven.
Braise the veal shanks for 45 minutes. Add the bou­
quet garni and degrease the liquid if necessary. Fin­
ish braising the veal until fork-tender, 1 to 1V2 hours
more.

c h a p te r 20 » B R A IS IN G A N D STEW ING 601

 Polish S tu ffe d
Cabbage
Makes 10 servings
20 large savoy cabbage leaves (outer leaves)
FILLING
12 o z/3 4 0 g boneless veal breast, diced
12 o z/3 4 0 g boneless pork shoulder, diced
12 o z/3 4 0 g boneless beef bottom round, diced
5 . For each cabbage roll, dampen a i2-in/30-cm square
of cheesecloth. Place the cheesecloth in an 8-fl
oz/240-mL round cup. Place 2 cabbage leaves in
the cup, overlapping the leaves so that there are no
open spaces. Place 4 oz/113 g of the meat mixture in
the center of the leaves and wrap them around to
enclose the filling. Twist the excess cheesecloth to
form each roll into a ball. Do not twist too hard or
the cabbage leaves will rip. Remove the cabbage rolls
from the cheesecloth each time they are formed and
gently place on a platter or in a hotel pan.

l '/ 2 tb s p /1 5 g s a lt
l '/ 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
10 o z/2 8 4 g small-dice onion, sauteed and cooled
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream
3 eggs
6 o z/1 7 0 g bread crumbs
V* ts p /0.50 g freshly grated nutmeg, or as needed
6 o z/1 7 0 g thinly sliced Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
1 bay leaf
2'/2 q t/2 .4 0 L White Beef Stock
(page 263), or as needed, hot
6 o z/1 7 0 g slab bacon, cut into 10 slices (optional)
25 fl o z/7 5 0 mL Tomato Sauce (page 2 9 5)
6 . Place the mirepoix and bay leaf in a rondeau or
brasier. Place the cabbage rolls seam side down on
top of the mirepoix. Add enough hot stock to come
about halfway up the rolls and place the bacon on
top of the cabbage rolls, if desired. Bring the stock
to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Cover
the pot and transfer to a 325°F/i63°C oven. Braise
the cabbage rolls to an internal temperature of
i6o°F/7i°C, 25 to 30 minutes.
7 . Serve the cabbage rolls immediately with 2% fl oz/75
mL tomato sauce per serving, or hold them hot for
service.
NOTE: This dish d iffe rs from a typical braise because it is not
served w ith the reduced cooking liquid: it is served w ith a
separate sauce.

1 . Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook

the cabbage leaves until pliable, about 5 minutes.
Drain, rinse in cold water, and drain once more.
Remove the large vein from each cabbage leaf with a
paring knife. Reserve under refrigeration.
2 . To make the filling, season the veal, pork, and beef
with 1 tbsp/10 g salt and 1 tsp/2 g pepper.
3 . Grind the seasoned meat through a coarse die of a
meat grinder. Fold the onions into the ground meat
and grind a second time through the same die. (Chill
the mixture if its temperature rises above 40°F/4°C.)
4 . Working over an ice bath, add the cream and eggs
to the meat mixture in a medium bowl. Use a rub­
ber spatula to mix until evenly blended. Fold in the
bread crumbs. Season with the remaining salt and
pepper and the nutmeg.

602 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H

Braised Lamb Shanks
Makes 10 servings
Ten l-lb /4 5 4 -g lamb shanks
2 tb s p /2 0 g s a lt
2 V i ts p /5 g ground black pepper
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
1 lb /4 5 4 g large-dice Standard
Mirepoix (page 243), separate
2 tb sp /3 0 mL tomato paste
6 . Transfer the shanks to a hotel pan or other holding
container and moisten with some of the cooking
liquid. Hold warm while finishing the sauce.
7 . Simmer the cooking liquid until it has a good flavor
and consistency, about 3 minutes. Skim thoroughly
to degrease the sauce. If necessary, thicken the sauce
lightly with the arrowroot slurry. Adjust seasoning
with the remaining salt and pepper, and strain.
8 . Serve the shanks immediately with the sauce or hold
them hot for service.

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL dry red wine
2 q t/1 .9 2 L Brown Lamb Stock (page 264)
or Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
NOTES: To prepare braised lamb shanks in advance and
finish them in batches or a la minute, cool the shanks
a fte r they have been removed from the braising liquid.

8 o z/2 2 7 g Blond Roux (page 246), cooled Foods th a t are braised on the bone have a wonderful
flavor and texture but may be a challenge fo r the guest
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241) to eat. It is sometimes appropriate to remove the bones
1 garlic head, halved and roasted (see page 634) before service: Once the shanks are cool enough to
handle, pull out the shank bone. Transfer the boneless
Arrowroot slurry (see page 248), as needed (optional) shanks to a hotel pan. Cover and refrigerate the shanks.
Cool and store the sauce separately in a bain-marie or
other container.
1 . Season the shanks with l tbsp/io g salt and 1V2 tsp/3
g pepper. To complete the shanks fo r service, ladle a small amount
o f a fla vo rfu l stock, remouillage, or broth on the shanks
2 . Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over medium-
and reheat them in the oven.
high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the shanks
carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on all To complete the dish, reheat the amount o f sauce
needed in a saute pan, add the reheated shanks, simmer
sides, about 15 minutes. Transfer the shanks to a ho­
briefly, and adjust seasoning.
tel pan and reserve.
3 . Add the onions from the mirepoix to the pan and
cook, stirring from time to time, until golden brown,
about 7 minutes. Add the carrots and celery and
cook until they just begin to become tender. Add the
tomato paste and cook until the tomato paste turns
a deeper color and gives off a sweet aroma, about 1
minute.
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any pan
drippings. Reduce the wine by half, 4 to 5 minutes.
Whisk in the stock and bring to a simmer. Whisk in
the cooled roux until combined and return the sauce
to a simmer. Return the shanks to the pan along with
any juices they may have released.
5 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat.
Cover the pot and transfer it to a 325°F/i63°C oven.
Braise the lamb shanks for 45 minutes. Add the
sachet and roasted garlic and degrease the liquid if
necessary. Finish braising the lamb until fork-tender,
about 2 hours more.

M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 braising and stewing recipes
Portuguese S tu ffe d the sauce. If necessary, thicken with arrowroot slur­
ry. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and strain.
Leg o f Lamb Add cilantro to the entire batch or to individual serv­

Makes 12 servings ings. Hold hot for service.

9. Remove the strings and slice the lamb into servings.

5 lb /2.27 kg boneless lamb leg Serve immediately with the sauce or hold hot for
1 tb s p /1 0 g salt, or more as needed service.

I V 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper, or more as needed

2 lb 4 o z/1.25 kg Herbed Forcemeat Herbed Forcemeat Stuffing

Stuffing (recipe follows)
Makes 2 lb 4 02/1.02 kg
2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil

12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243) 2 o z/5 7 g butter

2 fl o z/6 0 mL tomato paste 8 o z/2 2 7 g f ine-dice onion

3 fl o z/9 0 mL dry sherry 3 o z/8 5 g fine-dice celery

r /2 q t/1 .4 4 L Brown Lamb Stock (page 8 o z/2 2 7 g fine-dice mushrooms

26 4) or Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
5 o z/1 4 2 g small-dice bread
2 bay leaves
6 o z/1 7 0 g ground beef
Arrowroot slurry (see page 248), as needed
6 o z/1 7 0 g ground pork
1 tb sp /3 g roughly chopped cilantro
6 o z/1 7 0 g ground veal

le g g
1. Butterfly the lamb and pound to an even thickness.
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped parsley
2 . Season with salt and pepper. Spread the stuffing on
the lamb, roll, and tie to secure.
V2 ts p /0 .5 0 g basil chiffonade

3. Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over medium- V 2 ts p /0 .5 0 g minced savory

high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the lamb V 2 ts p /0 .5 0 g minced sage
carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on all Salt, as needed
sides. Transfer the lamb to a hotel pan and reserve.
Ground black pepper, as needed
4 . Add the mirepoix to the pan and cook, stirring from
time to time, until golden brown, 7 to 8 minutes.
1 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium-
Add the tomato paste and cook until it turns a deep­
high heat. Add the onions and saute, stirring fre­
er color and gives off a sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
quently, until golden brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Add
5. Add the sherry to the pan, stirring to release any pan the celery and mushrooms. Continue to cook until
drippings. Reduce by half. Return the lamb to the tender. Transfer to a bowl and cool.
pan along with any juices it may have released. Add
enough stock to cover the lamb by two-thirds.
2 . Add the bread, ground meats, egg, herbs, salt, and
pepper and mix until combined. The stuffing is ready
6 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low to use now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
heat. Add the bay leaves, cover, and braise in a
325°F/ i 63°C oven until fork-tender, 1V2 to 2 hours,
turning occasionally to keep the lamb evenly
moistened.

7. Transfer the lamb to a hotel pan, moisten with some

of the cooking liquid, and hold warm.

8 . Simmer the remaining cooking liquid to a good

flavor and consistency. Skim thoroughly to degrease

c h a p te r 20 » B R A IS IN G A N D ST EW IN G 605
 Lamb Navarin
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless lamb shoulder, neck,
shank, or leg, cut into 2-in/5-cm cubes
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
V / 2 tsp/B g ground black pepper
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
6 o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice onion
1 tsp/B g minced garlic
pot and stew the lamb for about l hour. Add more
stock during cooking, if necessary. Skim and de­
grease the stew as it cooks.
Add the carrots, potatoes, celery, turnips, and mush­
rooms. Continue to stew until the lamb is tender to
the bite and the vegetables are fully cooked. Remove
and discard the sachet. Add the concasse and sim­
mer until the tomatoes are very hot, 10 minutes
more. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
Serve the stew immediately or hold hot for service.

2 fl o z/6 0 mL tomato paste

4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL dry red wine

V h q t/1 .4 4 L Brown Lamb Stock (page 2 6 4) or

Brown Veal Stock (page 263), or as needed

20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293), Jus

d'Agneau Lie (page 293), Jus de Veau Lie (page
293), or Espagnole Sauce (page 294)

1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)

8 o z/2 2 7 g carrot, tourne or oblique cut

8 o z/2 2 7 g potato, tourne or medium dice

8 o z/2 2 7 g celery, tourne or oblique cut

8 o z/2 2 7 g turnip, tourne or medium dice

8 o z/2 2 7 g white mushrooms, halved

6 o z/1 7 0 g tomato concasse

1 . Season the lamb with salt and pepper.

2 . Heat the oil in a large rondeau or brasier over me­
dium-high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the
lamb carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown
on as many sides as possible. This may have to be
done in batches. Transfer the lamb to a hotel pan
and reserve.
3 . Degrease the pan, if necessary. Add the onions to the
oil and cook over medium heat, stirring from time to
time, until caramelized. Add the garlic and tomato
paste and cook until the tomato paste turns a deeper
color and gives off a sweet aroma, about l minute.
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any drip­
pings. Reduce the wine by three-quarters. Return
the lamb to the pan along with any juices it may
have released.
5 . Add enough stock and demi-glace to cover the lamb,
along with the sachet. Bring to a gentle simmer over
medium-low heat to prevent scorching. Cover the

6o6 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H

 or
Lamb Khorma Add just enough cashew paste to thicken the sauce,
P
1—*•
GO
Makes 10 servings stirring to make sure nothing sticks to the bottom l—*•
of the pan. Add water if the mixture becomes too 2
MARINADE dry. Add the cream and adjust seasoning with salt Orq
and pepper. Mix well and continue to cook until the
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL plain yogurt P

2 ts p /4 g ground white pepper

meat is tender.
Serve immediately or hold hot for service. Garnish
3
0 -
2 ts p /4 g ground cardamom with the cilantro leaves.
c/i
1 tb sp /9 g garlic paste

1 tb sp /9 g ginger paste
?d
LAMB 1—*•
5 lb /2.27 kg lamb shoulder, cut into l'/2 -in /4 -c m cubes P
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL ghee or vegetable oil
Grq
i-s
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice onion
CD
3 tb sp /1 8 g ground cumin n
i—*•
1 ts p /2 g ground cardamom

r /2 tb sp /9 g ground fennel seed a>

in
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper

1 tb sp /9 g minced ginger

2 tb sp /1 2 g ground coriander

6 Thai chiles, minced

1 o z/2 8 g roughly chopped cilantro stems

1 lb /4 5 4 g cashews, soaked in hot

water, ground to a paste

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream

V 2 o z/21 g roughly chopped cilantro leaves

1 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade. Add

the lamb and marinate for 30 minutes in the
refrigerator.
2 . Heat the ghee in a rondeau or brasier over medium-
high heat until it shimmers. Add the onions and
sweat until translucent.

3. Reduce the heat to low. In 1- to 2-minute intervals,

stir in the cumin, cardamom, fennel, pepper, ginger,
and coriander. When the spices are aromatic, add the
chiles and cilantro stems. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes.
4. Drain the marinade from the the lamb and add the
lamb to the spices. Increase the heat and mix until
the lamb is evenly covered with the spices. Bring to
a simmer, cover the pan, and cook over medium-low
heat for 1 hour 30 minutes, stirring occasionally to
prevent the meat from sticking to the bottom of the
pan. Add water if the mixture becomes too dry.

c h a p te r 20 » B R A IS IN G A N D S T EW IN G 607
 Curried Goat with
Green Papaya Salad
Makes 20 servings
About 2 5 lb / 1 1 .3 4 kg goat, cut into prim al sections
1 o z /2 8 g salt
4 t s p /8 g ground black pepper
8 fl o z /2 4 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
2 g a l/7 .6 8 L Brown Veal Stock (page 2 6 3 )
8 thym e sprigs
2 habaneros, seeded and minced
'/ 2 o z /1 4 g Curry Powder (page 3 6 9 )
D em i-G lace (page 2 9 3 ), as needed (optional)
2 0 plum tom ato es, peeled, seeded, medium dice
1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g green onions, sliced Vi in /1
7 f l o z /2 1 0 mL lime juice
4 0 fl o z /1 .2 0 L Green Papaya Salad (page 9 2 1 )
1. Season the goat with salt and pepper.
2 . Heat some of the oil in a brasier over medium-high
heat until it starts to shimmer. Working in batches,
place the goat pieces carefully in the oil and sear
until deep brown on all sides. Transfer to hotel pans
and reserve.
3. Once all the goat pieces have been seared, return
them to the brasier along with any juices they may
have released. Add the stock and thyme and adjust
seasoning with salt and pepper. Bring to a gentle
simmer over medium-low heat. Cover the pot and
transfer it to a 350°F/i77°C oven. Braise the goat un­
til very tender, at least 2 and up to 3 hours.
4 . Transfer the goat to hotel pans or other holding con­
tainers and moisten with some of the cooking liquid.
Hold warm while finishing the sauce.
5. Simmer the cooking liquid until it has reduced by
half. Skim thoroughly to degrease the sauce. Adjust
seasoning with salt and pepper and strain. Hold hot
for service.
6 . Shred the goat meat into large pieces and discard the
bones.
7. Heat some of the oil in a large rondeau over medium-
high heat. Add the habaneros and sweat until soft
and aromatic. Add the shredded goat, curry powder,
6o8 M E A T S , POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H
and the reduced cooking liquid. Bring to a simmer
and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. If desired,
add demi-glace.
8 . Just before service, stir in the tomatoes, half of the
green onions, and the lime juice. Serve immediately
with the green papaya salsa and garnished with the
remaining green onions, or hold hot for service.
Irish Stew
Makes 10 servings
4 lb /1 .8 1 kg boneless lamb shoulder,
cut into 2 -in /5 -c m cubes
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
’/ 2 ts p /1 g ground w hite pepper
cm thick
2 q t/1 .9 2 L W h ite B eef Stock (page 2 6 3 )
1 Standard Bouquet Garni (page 2 4 1 )
1 lb /4 5 4 g pearl onions, blanched and peeled
1 lb /4 5 4 g large-dice potatoes
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice celery
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice carrots
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice parsnips
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice turnips
2 tb s p /6 g chopped parsley
1. Season the lamb with salt and pepper.
2 . Heat the stock in a medium stockpot to a simmer
and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed.
Place the lamb in a second medium pot and pour the
heated stock over it. Bring to a simmer, stirring from
time to time and skimming as necessary to remove
impurities. Simmer for 1 hour.
3. Add the bouquet garni, onions, potatoes, celery, car­
rots, parsnips, and turnips. Continue to simmer until
the lamb and vegetables are tender to the bite, 30 to
45 minutes more.
4 . Serve the stew immediately or hold hot for service.
Garnish with the parsley.

Couscous with Lamb
and Chicken Stew
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless lamb shoulder or
leg, cut into l- in /3 -c m cubes
3 lb /1 .3 6 kg bone-in, skinless chicken legs,
thighs, and drum sticks, separated
braising and stewing recipes
1. Season the lamb and chicken with salt and pepper.
2 . Heat 2 fl oz/6o mL of the oil in the lower part of a
couscoussiere over medium-high heat until it starts
to shimmer. Place the lamb carefully in the oil and
sear until deep brown on as many sides as possible.
3. Add the onions, garlic, ginger, and spices. Add
enough stock to cover the lamb. Bring the stock to a
simmer and cook for 45 minutes.

1 t b s p /lO g s a lt 4. Add the carrots, turnips, and chicken to the stew and
return to a simmer over low heat. Skim and degrease
V/ 2 t s p /3 g ground black pepper
as necessary.
4 f I o z /1 2 0 mL olive oil
5. Line the top of the couscoussiere with rinsed cheese­
8 o z /2 2 7 g diced onion cloth and add the couscous. Cover and continue to
3/ t o z /2 1 g minced garlic cook for another 30 minutes.

1 tb s p /9 g g rated ginger 6 . Remove the top of the couscoussiere, adjust season­

ing of the couscous with salt, and add the remaining
'/ 2 o z /1 4 g ground cumin
2 fl oz/6o mL of oil, working to break up any clumps.
Vi o z /1 4 g ground turm eric
Hold hot while finishing the stew.
1 ts p /2 g ground coriander
7. Add the zucchini and green peppers to the stew and
V 2 ts p /1 g ground nutm eg cook for 4 minutes.
2 bay leaves 8 . Add the chickpeas, lima beans, tomatoes, artichoke
Pinch saffro n threads bottoms, and truffles, if using, and simmer the stew
until all of the ingredients are tender and very hot.
Pinch ground cloves
Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, and spices, if nec­
2Vi q t/2 .4 0
L Brown Lamb S to ck (page 2 6 4 )
essary.
or Brown Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3 )

8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice carrot
9 . Mound the couscous on a heated plate or platter and
place the stew in the center of the mound. Scatter
4 o z /1 13 g large-dice turnip
with the almonds, raisins, droplets of harissa, and
1 lb /4 5 4 g couscous parsley. Serve immediately.

8 o z /2 2 7 g sm all-dice zucchini

8 o z /2 2 7 g sm all-dice green pepper

4 o z /1 1 3 g cooked chickpeas

2 o z /5 7 g cooked lima beans

1 lb /4 5 4 g tom ato es, peeled and cut into wedges

6 o z /1 7 0 g raw artichoke bottom s, quartered

4 o z /1 1 3 g Arabic w hite tru ffle s , sliced (optional)

GARNISH

6 o z /1 7 0 g sliced almonds, to a s te d

6 o z /1 7 0 g raisins or currants

2 tb s p /3 0 mL Harissa (page 9 5 9 )

V2 o z /1 4 g chopped parsley

c h a p te r 2 0 » B R A IS IN G A N D S T EW IN G 609
 braising and stewing recipes
Chicken Tagine Preserved Lemons
Makes 10 servings Makes 6 lemons

5 chickens (2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg each), 6 lemons

cut into 6 pieces each
5 o z /1 4 2 g s a lt
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed
l ’/2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper

2 f I o z/6 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 1 . Wash the lemons very well. Cut each one in 6
30 cipollini onions, blanched and peeled wedges lengthwise and remove all the seeds. Place

' / 2-in /l-c m piece ginger, thinly sliced

the lemon wedges in a very clean jar. Add the salt
and lemon juice and mix well. Add more lemon juice
5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
if necessary to just cover the lemons.
1 ts p /2 g cumin seeds, toasted and ground
2 . Cover with a lid and refrigerate. Stir the lemons
V* ts p /0 .2 0 g saffron every day or two to help dissolve the salt. Allow the
8 to 10 f I o z/2 4 0 to 30 0 mL water or lemons to cure for at least 1 week.
Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed
3 . Rinse under cold water before using as needed. Keep
50 picholine olives refrigerated.
2 Preserved Lemons (recipe follows), chopped

2 fl o z/1 2 g chopped parsley

1 . Season the chicken with salt and pepper.

2-. Heat the oil in enough pans (tagine, rondeau, or
brasier) to hold the chicken over medium-high heat
until it shimmers. Place the chicken pieces carefully
in the oil and saute until they turn golden brown on
all sides. Transfer the chicken to a hotel pan and
reserve.
3 . Add the onions to the oil and cook, stirring from
time to time, until golden brown, 7 to 8 minutes.
Add the ginger and garlic and toast until aromatic, 1
minute more. Add the cumin and saffron and cook
until the mixture turns a deeper color and gives off a
sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
4 . Return the chicken to the pan along with any juices it
may have released and add the water or stock. Adjust
seasoning with salt and pepper. Bring to a gentle sim­
mer over medium-low heat. Cover and braise until the
chicken is cooked through, 30 to 40 minutes, turning
the pieces occasionally to keep them evenly moist­
ened. (Maintain only a small amount of water or stock
so the braising liquid will become concentrated.)
5 . In the last 15 minutes, add the olives, lemons, and
parsley. Simmer the mixture until the olives are ten­
der and the aroma of the lemons is apparent.
6 . Remove the lemons and serve the tagine immedi­
ately or hold hot for service.

chapter 20 » B R A I S IN G A N D STEW IN G 611

 Chicken Fricassee 8 . Return the chicken to the sauce, along with the
carrots and leeks. Simmer until the vegetables are
M akes 10 servings
tender, about 2 minutes.
5 chickens (2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg each), 9 . Serve immediately or hold hot for service. Garnish
cut into 8 pieces each
with the chives.
lt b s p /lO g s a lt

]A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground white pepper Veal Fricassee: S ubstitute an equal amount o f boneless

veal shoulder, breast, or leg meat fo r the chicken.
2 f I o z/6 0 mL clarif ied butter or vegetable oil

1 lb /4 5 4 g diced onions

2 ts p /6 g minced garlic

2 o z/5 7 g all-purpose flour

Chicken and Prawn
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL white wine

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263) Ragout (Mar i

2 bay leaves

1 tb sp /3 g thyme leaves
Muntanya)
M akes 10 servings
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream

1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice carrots, blanched 3 chickens (2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg each),

cut into 8 pieces each
1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice leeks, white and
light green parts, blanched 1 tb s p /lO g s a lt

V i o z/1 4 g chopped parsley or minced chives V / 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper

2 f I o z/6 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil

1 . Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper. 1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g shrimp (1 6 /2 0
2 . Heat the butter in a large rondeau or brasier over count), deveined, with shells on

medium-low heat. Add the onions and garlic to
the pan and cook on medium-low heat, stirring
from time to time, until the onions are translucent,
about 5 minutes.
3 . Add the flour and cook, stirring frequently, for
about 5 minutes.
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice onions
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g plum tomatoes, chopped
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL white wine
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
2 tb s p /3 0 mL Pernod

4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any PICADA

drippings. Add the stock, bay leaves, and thyme V A o z/3 5 g minced garlic
and bring to a simmer. Add the chicken pieces to
'/ 2 o z/1 4 g toasted French bread
the pot.
2 V i o z/71 g Mexican chocolate
5 . Cover the pot and cook the chicken over medium-
low heat, until fork-tender and cooked through, 30 1 o z/2 8 g blanched almonds, roasted
to 40 minutes. (Alternatively, the chicken can be 1 tsp /1 g chopped parsley
cooked in a 325°F/i63°C oven.)
Salt, as needed
6 . Transfer the chicken to a hotel pan or other hold­
Ground black pepper, as needed
ing container and moisten with some of the cook­
1 tb s p /1 5 mL extra-virgin olive oil
ing liquid. Hold warm while finishing the sauce.
7 . Add the cream to the remaining cooking liquid and
1 . Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper.
simmer until the sauce has thickened slightly, 5 to
7 minutes. Skim thoroughly to degrease the sauce. 2 . Heat the oil in a medium rondeau or brasier over
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and strain. medium-high heat until it shimmers. Place the

612 M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H


chicken pieces carefully in the oil and saute until
they turn golden brown on all sides. Transfer the
chicken to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . In the same pan, saute the shrimp in their shells
until bright red, about 3 minutes. Transfer the
shrimp to another hotel pan and reserve.
4 . Degrease the pan, if necessary. Add the onions and
tomatoes to the oil and cook, stirring from time
to time, until softened and slightly rust colored,
about 15 minutes.
5 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any
drippings. Reduce by half. Return the chicken
pieces to the pan along with any juices they may
have released. Add enough stock to cover the
chicken.
braising and stewing recipes
6 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat.
Cover the pot and cook the chicken until fork-
tender and cooked through, 30 to 40 minutes.
7 . Add the Pernod and continue simmering for 10
minutes more. Add the shrimp and finish cooking,
about 2 minutes. Adjust seasoning with salt and
pepper.
8 . To make the picada, crush or grind the garlic,
bread, chocolate, and almonds until smooth. Add
the parsley and combine well. Season with salt and
pepper. Add enough oil to barely cover the picada
and work it into a thick paste.
9 . Stir the picada into the stew and cook for 2 min­
utes more.
10 . Serve the stew immediately or hold hot for service.
 vegetables, pc
legumes, and pa:
atoes, grains and
a and dumplings
From trimming and peeling to slicing and dicing, many vegetables and
mm Mm
herbs need advance preparation before they are ready to serve or use
as an ingredient in a cooked dish. Various knife cuts are used to shape
vegetables and herbs. A thorough mastery of knife skills includes the
ability to prepare vegetables and herbs properly for cutting, to use a
variety of cutting tools, and t&make cuts that are u n i f o r m ^ ip r e c i s e
 R eg a r d le s s of the v e g e t a b le s being p r ep a r e d , a lw a y s co nsider m akin g the cuts a unifo rm

S I Z E T O E N S U R E E V E N D O N E N E S S IN C O O K I N G . A E S T H E T I C A L L Y A P P E A L I N G P L A T E P R E S E N T A T I O N S A R E

A L S O V E R Y D E P E N D E N T ON TH E U S E OF P R O P E R L Y P R E P A R E D V E G E T A B L E S AN D ST AR CH E S . T h e BEST

D I S H E S B EG I N WI TH T H E B E S T - Q . U A L I T Y P R O D U C E .

cutting vegetables
and fresh herbs
Review the in fo rm a tio n ab ou t purchasing and handling produce fo u n d in C hapter 8 . Handle
fre s h produce c a re fu lly to m aintain its flavo r, color, and n u tritio n a l value th ro u g h o u t all
stages o f p re p a ra tio n and cooking. One key to p re servin g q u a lity in produce is to pe rfo rm
all c u ttin g tasks as close as possible to cooking tim e.
A n o th e r im p o rta n t fa c to r is th e a b ility to select the rig h t to o l fo r the job, and to keep
th a t to o l in p ro p e r w o rkin g con dition. A stee l should be on hand whenever you are c u ttin g
any fo o d to p e rio d ic a lly hone your k n ife blade as you w ork. For a review o f basic k n ife han­
dling, see pages 4 4 to 45.

T H E B A S IC K N IF E C U T S I N C L U D E :

C hopping M in cing

C h iffo n a d e (shre dd ing ) Julienne and b a to n n e t

D icing Paysanne (fe rm ie re )

Diam ond (lozenge) Rondelle, bias, oblique, o r ro ll cuts

Your aim, whenever you cu t som ething, should always be to c u t th e fo o d in to pieces o f

u n ifo rm shape and size. Unevenly cu t ite m s give an im pression o f carelessness th a t can
spo il th e dish's look. An even m ore im p o rta n t c o n sid e ra tio n is th a t fo o d s o f d iffe re n t sizes
and shapes w o n 't cook evenly.
When precise accurate kn ife cuts, such as julienne, ba tonn et, brunoise, and dices, are
required, it is im p o rta n t to cut w ith a "slice" technique. The k n ife should be held firm ly w ith
a balanced g rip and th e w ris t should be stable. The slicin g m otio n should move e ith e r f o r ­
w ards o r backw ards. Do n o t press th e k n ife s tra ig h t down o r g rip th e k n ife w ith a loose
w ris t, as th is could re s u lt in less accurate cuts.

618 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 cutting vegetables and fresh herbs
I

Peeling vegetables

All fresh produce, even if it will be peeled before cutting, should be washed well.
Washing removes surface dirt and bacteria and other contaminants that might
otherwise come in contact with cut surfaces by way of the knife or peeler. For the
best shelf life, wash vegetables as close to preparation time as possible.
Not all vegetables require peeling before cooking, but when it is neces­
sary, use a tool that will remove the skin evenly and neatly without taking
off too much of the edible flesh. To peel a thick-skinned vegetable such as
winter squash, use a chef’s knife. Chef’s knives are better for larger vegetables
or those with very tough rinds, such as celeriac or winter squash. Remove
fibrous or tough skins from broccoli and similar vegetables by using a paring
knife or swivel-bladed peeler to trim away the skin; often it can be pulled
away after the initial cut.
Some vegetables and fruits have relatively thin skins or peels. Examples
include carrots, parsnips, asparagus, apples, pears, and potatoes. Peel these
with a swivel-bladed peeler. These peelers can be used in both directions, so
that the skin or peel is removed on both the downward and upward strokes.
A paring knife can be used in place of a peeler in some instances. Hold the
blade’s edge at a 20-degree angle to the vegetable’s surface and shave the
blade just under the surface to remove a thin layer.

1 . Peel a th ic k -s k in n e d ve g e ta b le such as w in te r squash w ith a c h e fs

knife.

2. Peel veg etab le s w ith re la tiv e ly th in skins or peels, such as asparagus,

ca rro ts, o r parsnips, w ith a s w ive l-b la d e d peeler.

ch a p te r 21 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FR ESH HERBS 619

 2

Chopping

Coarse chopping is generally used for mirepoix or similar flavoring ingredi­

ents that are to be strained out of the dish and discarded. Chopping is often
done with a straight, downward cutting motion. It is also appropriate when
cutting vegetables that will be pureed. Trim the root and stem ends and peel
the vegetables if necessary. Slice or chop through the vegetables at nearly
regular intervals until the cuts are relatively uniform. This need not be a per­
fectly neat cut, but all the pieces should be roughly the same size.

1. Rinse and dry herbs well, and the n s trip th e leaves fro m th e stem s.
G ather th e herbs in to a tig h t ball using you r g u id in g hand to hold the m in
place, then slice th ro u g h th e m to fo rm coarse b u t u n ifo rm pieces.

2 . Once th e herbs are coa rsely chopped, use th e fin g e rtip s o f you r g uiding
hand to hold th e tip o f th e c h e fs k n ife in c o n ta c t w ith th e c u ttin g board. Keep­
ing th e tip o f th e blade ag ainst th e c u ttin g board, low er th e k n ife f ir m ly and
rapidly, re p e a te d ly c u ttin g th ro u g h th e herbs.

620 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 cutting vegetables and fresh herbs
Mincing Chiffonade/shredding

Mincing is a very fine cut that is suitable for many vegetables and herbs. On­ The chiffonade cut is used for leafy
ions, garlic, and shallots are often minced. vegetables and herbs. The result is
a fine shred, often used as a garnish
1. Finely mince th e herbs by co n tin u in g to cut u n til th e desired fine ne ss is or bed.
atta in e d . For Belgian endive, remove the
leaves from the core and stack them.
2. Green onions and chives are m inced d iffe re n tly . R a th er than c u ttin g Make parallel lengthwise cuts to pro­
re p e a te d ly, slice th e m ve ry thin . M in cing an onion is shown on page 631. duce a shred. For greens with large
leaves, such as romaine, roll individ­
ual leaves into cylinders before cut­
ting crosswise. Stack smaller leaves,
such as basil, one on top of the other,
then roll them into cylinders and cut.
Use a chef’s knife to make very fine,
parallel cuts to produce fine shreds.

Chapter 21 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS 621

 STANDARD VEGETABLE CUTS

The standard vegetable cuts are illustrated in the following charts. The dimensions indi­
cated are guidelines and may be modified as necessary. Determine the size of the cut by
the requirements of the recipe or menu item, the nature of the vegetable being cut, the
desired cooking time, and the appearance desired.

F IN E J U L IE N N E J U L IE N N E /A L L U M E T T E

' / i 6 x ' / i 6 x 1 to 2 in Va x Va x 1 to 2 in
1.50 mm x 1.50 mm x 3 to 5 cm 3 mm x 3 mm x 3 to 5 cm

BATONNET F IN E B R U N O IS E

'/» x V* x 2 to 21/2 in ' / i 6 x ! / i6 x Vi6 in

6 mm x 6 mm x 5 to 6 cm 1 . 5 0 x 1 . 5 0 x 1 . 5 0 mm

622 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 cutting vegetables and fresh herbs
Before chopping or cutting vegetables, trim them to remove roots, cores, stems, ribs
and/or seeds. Round vegetables may also be trimmed by taking a thin slice away from one
side; this makes cutting safer, since the vegetable will not roll or slip as it is cut. To pro­
duce very regular and precise cuts, such as julienne or dice, cut a slice from each side and
both ends of the vegetable to make an even rectangular solid or cube.

B R U N O IS E S M A L L D IC E

V b x V b xV a ln ]A x ]A x !A in
3x3x3m m 6 x 6 x 6 mm

M E D IU M D IC E L A R G E D IC E

V2 x V2 x V2 in 3/4 x 3/4 x 3A in
1 .2 5 x 1 .2 5 x 1 .2 5 cm 2 x 2 x 2 cm

C hapter 21 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FR ESH HERBS 623

AD D ITION AL VEGETABLE CUTS

The vegetables shown here have been cut

to precise standards for a more upscale
presentation. They may be cut so that the
natural shape of the vegetable is visible in
each slice.
Tourne cuts (see page 630) may be the
classic football shape shown here or modi­
fied to suit different vegetable types.

PAYSANNE

V 2 x V 2 x Vs in
1 cm x 1cm x 3 mm

F E R M IE R E LO ZENGE

Cut le ng th w ise , the n slice to desired D iam ond shape: V 2 x V 2 x Ve in

th ickn e ss: Vs to V 2 in /3 mm x 1 cm 1 cm x 1 cm x 3 mm

RONDELLE TO UR N E

Cut to desired thickn ess: Vs to V 2 in A p p ro x im a te ly 2 in /5 cm long w ith 7 faces

3 mm to 1 cm

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
 cutting vegetables and fresh herbs
Julienne and batonnet

Julienne and batonnet are long rectangular cuts. Related cuts are the standard Dicing produces cube shapes. Dif­
pommes frites and pommes pont neuf cuts (both are names for French fries) and ferent preparations require different
the allumette (matchstick) cut. The difference between these cuts is the final size. sizes of dice. The names given to the
Trim and square off the vegetable by cutting a slice to make four straight different-size dice are fine brunoise/
sides. Cut both ends to even the block off. These initial slices make it easier brunoise, and small, medium, and
to produce even cuts. The trimmings can be used for stocks, soups, purees, or large dice. The charts on pages 622
other preparations where the shape is not important. to 623 list the dimensions of these
cuts. To begin, trim and square the
1 . A fte r squ aring o f f th e veg etab le , slice th e ve g e ta b le le ng th w ise , m ak­ vegetable as for julienne or batonnet.
ing p a rallel cuts o f even thickn ess.
1 . G ather th e ju lie n n e or b a to n n e t
2. S tack th e cut slices, aligning th e edges, and make even p a rallel cuts o f the pieces and cu t th ro u g h them cross­
same thickn ess fo r a ba tonn et. Thinner slices in bo th d ire c tio n s make julienne. w ise a t evenly spaced in te rvals.

c h a p te r 21 » M IS E EN P L A C E FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS 625

Paysanne/fermiere
Cuts produced in the paysanne (peas­
ant) and fermiere (farmer) style are
generally used in dishes intended to
have a rustic or home-style appeal.
When used for traditional regional spe­
cialties, they may be cut in such a way
that the shape of the vegetable’s curved
or uneven edges is still apparent in the
finished cut. However, it is important
to cut them all to the same thickness so
that they will cook evenly.
Square off the vegetable first
and make large batonnet, % in/2 cm
thick. Make even parallel cuts cross­
wise at %-in/3-mm intervals to pro­
duce the paysanne cut. For the more
rustic fermiere presentation, cut the
vegetable into halves, quarters, or
eighths, depending on its size. The
pieces should be roughly similar in
dimension to a batonnet. Make
even thin crosswise cuts at roughly
Vs-in^-mm intervals.
626 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PAST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Diamond/lozenge
The diamond, or lozenge, cut is
similar to the paysanne. Instead of
cutting batonnets, thinly slice the
vegetable, then cut into strips of the
appropriate width.
Trim and thinly slice the veg­
etable. Cut the slices on the bias into
strips Vs in-/3 mm-thick of the cor­
rect width. Make an initial bias cut
to begin. This will leave some trim
(reserve the trim for use in prepa­
rations that do not require a neat,
decorative cut). Continue to make
bias cuts, parallel to the first one.
Rounds/rondelles
Rounds or rondelles are simple to
cut. Just cut a cylindrical vegetable,
such as a carrot or cucumber, cross­
wise. Score the vegetable with a
channel knife to produce flower
shapes, if desired. Trim and peel the
vegetable if necessary. Make parallel
slicing cuts through the vegetable at
even intervals. Guide the vegetable
as you are cutting by pushing on the
end of it with your thumb. The basic
round shape can be varied by cutting
the vegetable on the bias to produce
an elongated or oval disk or by slic­
ing it in half lengthwise first to cre­
ate half-moons.
 cutting vegetables and fresh herbs
Diagonal/bias Oblique or roll

This cut is often used to prepare This cut is used primarily with long,
vegetables for stir-fries and other cylindrical vegetables such as pars­
Asian-style dishes because it exposes nips or carrots. Place the peeled
a greater surface area and shortens vegetable on a cutting board. Make
cooking time. To make a diagonal a diagonal cut to remove the stem
cut, place the peeled or trimmed veg­ end. Hold the knife in the same posi­
etable on the work surface. Hold the tion and roll the vegetable a quarter
blade so that it cuts through the food turn (90 degrees). Slice through it on
on an angle. The wider the angle, the the same diagonal, forming a piece
more elongated the cut surface will with two angled edges. Be sure to
be. Continue making parallel cuts, decrease the angle of the diagonal
adjusting the angle of the blade so as the vegetable gets larger in diam­
that all the pieces are approximately eter. This will ensure uniform cuts
the same size. that will cook evenly. Repeat until
the entire vegetable has been cut.
Alternatively, cut the vegetable using
a half turn (180°) to obtain the cut
pictured above.

c h a p te r 21 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS 627

 2

Waff le/gauf rette

Use a mandoline to make waffle (gaufrette) cuts. Potatoes, sweet potatoes,

beets, and other large, relatively solid foods can be made into this cut.

1 . The blades o f th e m andoline are s e t so th a t th e f ir s t pass o f th e veg­

e ta b le doesn’t a c tu a lly cu t away a slice b u t only makes grooves.

2. Turn th e p o ta to 45 degrees and make th e second pass to cre a te w a ffle

cu t p o ta to e s. Run th e ve g e ta b le th e e n tire length o f th e m andoline. Turn the
veg etab le 45 degrees and re p e a t th e e n tire stro ke . Repeat th is procedure,
tu rn in g th e veg etab le 45 degrees on each pass over the m andoline.

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 decorative cuts using special techniques
Fluting takes some practice to master, but it makes a very attractive garnish.
It is customarily used on mushrooms.

1 . Hold th e m ushroom betw een th e th u m b and fin g e rs o f you r g u id ing

hand. Remove th e o u te r layer o f th e m ushroom cap by peeling th e m ushroom .
S ta rt a t th e unde rside o f th e cap, go in g to w a rd th e center.

2. Place th e blade o f a parin g k n ife at a ve ry s lig h t angle ag ainst th e m ush­

room cap center. R est th e th u m b o f your c u ttin g hand on th e m ushroom and
use it to brace th e kn ife . R o ta te th e k n ife to w a rd th e base o f th e cap w hile
tu rn in g the m ushroom in th e o p p o s ite d ire ctio n .

3. Turn th e m ushroom s lig h tly and re p e a t th e c u ttin g s tep s. C ontinue u n til

th e e n tire cap is flu te d . Finish th e flu te d m ushroom by lig h tly pre ssin g th e tip
o f you r pa rin g k n ife in to th e to p o f th e m ushroom to cre a te a s ta r p a tte rn . Pull
away the trim m in g s. Trim aw ay th e stem .

c h a p te r 21 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FR ESH HERBS 629

Cutting turned/tourne vegetables Fanning

Turning vegetables ( toumer in French) requires a series of cuts that simulta­ The fan cut uses one basic, easy-to-
neously trim and shape the vegetable. The shape is similar to a small barrel master cut to produce complicated-
or football. Peel the vegetable, if desired, and cut it into pieces of manageable looking garnishes. It is used on both
size. Cut large round or oval vegetables, such as beets and potatoes, into quar­ raw and cooked foods such as pick­
ters, sixths, or eighths (depending on the size), to form pieces slightly longer les, strawberries, peach halves, avo­
than 2 in/5 cm - Cut cylindrical vegetables, such as carrots, into 2-in/5-cm cados, zucchini, and other somewhat
pieces. pliable vegetables and fruits.

1. Use a parin g o r to u rn e k n ife to cu t th e ve g e ta b le s in to manageable 1. Leaving th e stem end in ta ct,

pieces b e fo re to u rn e in g them . Carve th e pieces in to b a rre l o r fo o tb a ll make a series o f p a rallel le ng th w ise
shapes. Try to make as fe w cuts as po ssib le to cre a te th e 7 sides so th a t slices. Spread th e cu t f r u it or v eg­
th e face s o f th e to u rn e rem ain d is tin c t. The face s should be sm ooth, evenly e ta b le in to a fan shape.
spaced, and ta p e re d so th a t b o th ends are n a rrow e r than th e center.

630 VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 preparation techniques for specific vegetabl
Onions Dicing/mincing onions

Onions of all types taste best when cut as close as possible to the time to be 1 . To dice o r m ince an onion half,
used. The longer cut onions are stored, the more flavor and overall quality lay it cu t side down on a c u ttin g
they lose. Once cut, onions develop a strong sulfurous odor that can spoil a board. Use a chef's k n ife to make
dish’s aroma and appeal. a series o f evenly spaced, pa rallel
le ng th w ise cuts w ith th e tip o f the
1 . When pe eling an onion, ta ke o f f as fe w layers as possible. Here, the k n ife , leaving th e ro o t end in ta ct.
ch e f is using a parin g k n ife to rem ove th e o u te r layers o f skin. C uts spaced lA in/6 mm a p a rt w ill
Use a paring k nife to cut th in slices away fro m the stem and ro o t ends o f make sm all dice; cuts spaced V 2 in/1
the bulb. Catch the peel between the pad o f your thum b and the f la t side o f your cm o r 3A in /2 cm a p a rt w ill produce
ro
knife blade and pull away the peel. Trim away any brown spo ts fro m underlying m edium or large dice. Cuts spaced c/3
layers if necessary b e fore c u ttin g the vegetable to the desired size or shape. Vb in - /3 mm a p a rt w ill produce fin e
Leave th e onion w hole a fte r p e eling i f you need slices o r rings. To cu t onion m ince.
rings fro m a w hole onion, be sure to hold th e onion secu rely w ith you r g u id ing
hand; th e rounded surface o f th e onion can slip on th e c u ttin g board.
C ut th e onion in ha lf, m aking a cu t th a t runs fro m th e ro o t end to th e stem
end, in o rd e r to cu t ju lie n n e o r dice. The ro o t end, tho ugh trim m e d , is s till in ­
ta c t. This helps to hold th e onion layers to g e th e r as it is sliced o r diced. To cut
ju lie n n e fro m a halved onion, make a V -shaped notch cu t on e ith e r side o f the
ro o t end.
An a lte rn a tiv e p e eling m etho d is e sp ecially good f o r c u ttin g and using the
onion rig h t away. Halve th e onion le n g th w ise th ro u g h th e ro o t b e fo re trim m in g
and peeling. Trim th e ends, le avin g th e ro o t end in ta c t if th e onion w ill be diced,
and pull away th e skin fro m each half.

Chapter 21 » M I 5 E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS 631

Dicing/mincing onions, continued

2. W hile g e n tly holding th e v e rtic a l cuts to g e th e r, make tw o or th re e h o ri­

zo n ta l cuts p a ra lle l to th e w o rk surface fro m th e stem end to w a rd th e ro o t
end, b u t do n o t cu t all th e w ay throu gh . H olding th e previous cuts to g e th e r w ill
produce a m ore u n ifo rm mince.

3. To co m p le te th e dice, make even, crossw ise cuts w o rkin g fro m th e stem

end up to th e ro o t end, c u ttin g th ro u g h all layers o f the onion. Reserve any us­
able trim f o r m ire poix.
Some che fs p re fe r to cu t onions by m aking a series o f evenly spaced cuts
th a t fo llo w th e n a tural curve o f th e onion. Remove the ro o t fro m th e onion be ­
fo re m aking even cuts th a t fo llo w th e n a tural curve o f th e onion.

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 preparation techniques for specific vegetables
Depending on how it is cut, garlic may take on different flavors and like
onions, once cut, will become stronger in flavor. Pre-chopped garlic can be
purchased but is best avoided unless high-volume cooking calls for its conve­
nience.
Mashed or minced garlic is called for in many preparations, so it is important
to have enough prepared to last through a service period. To prevent bacterial
growth, store uncooked minced garlic covered in oil in the refrigerator and use
within 24 hours. It is always best, however, to cut garlic just prior to use.
To separate the garlic cloves, wrap an entire head of garlic in a side towel
and press down on the top. The cloves will break cleanly away from the root
end, and the towel keeps the papery skin from flying around the work area.

1. A t som e tim e s o f th e year and under ce rta in sto ra g e c o n d itio n s, the

g a rlic may begin to sp ro u t. S p lit th e clove in h a lf and rem ove th e s p ro u t fo r
th e b e st flavo r.
Lay th e skinned cloves on th e c u ttin g board w ith th e f la t o f th e k n ife blade
over them . Using a m o tio n s im ila r to th a t f o r cracking th e skin, h it th e blade
fir m ly and fo rc e fu lly w ith a f is t o r th e heel o f you r hand to crush th e cloves.
An a lte rn a tiv e to sm ashing th e clove o f g a rlic in o rd e r to rem ove th e peel is
to peel th e g a rlic clove w ith a pa rin g k n ife . To loosen th e skin fro m each clove,
place it on th e c u ttin g board, place th e f la t side o f the k n ife blade on to p , and
h it th e blade using a f is t o r th e heel o f your hand. Peel o f f th e skin and rem ove
th e ro o t end and any brow n spo ts.

Slice th e peeled g a rlic cloves b e fo re chopping them .

c h a p te r 21 » M IS E EN P L A C E FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FR ESH HERBS 633

Garlic, continued Roasting garlic

3. Cut th e g a rlic slices to cre a te rou gh ly chopped garlic. The flavor of garlic becomes rich,
sweet, and smoky after roasting.
4. M ince g a rlic cloves like you w ould m ince an onion. M ince o r chop the Roasted garlic can be found as a com­
cloves fa irly fine , using a ro ckin g m o tio n as f o r herbs. ponent of vegetable or potato purees,
To mash th e ga rlic, hold th e k n ife ne arly f la t ag ainst th e c u ttin g board and marinades, glazes, and vinaigrettes, as
use th e c u ttin g edge to mash th e g a rlic ag ainst th e board. Repeat th is ste p well as a spread for grilled bread.
u n til th e g a rlic is mashed to a paste. If desired, sp rin kle th e g a rlic w ith s a lt Place unpeeled heads of garlic
b e fo re m ashing. The s a lt a cts as an abrasive, speeding th e m ashing process in a small pan or on a sizzler platter.
and p re ve n tin g th e g a rlic fro m s tic k in g to th e k n ife blade. A lte rn a tiv e ly , crush To produce a drier texture, place the
and grind s a lt-s p rin k le d g a rlic in to a pa ste using a m o rta r and pestle. garlic on a bed of salt. You may wrap
whole heads of garlic in foil. Cut
off the tip of each head beforehand
to make it easier to squeeze out the
roasted garlic. Or peel the cloves first,
lightly oil them, and roast in a parch­
ment paper envelope.

1. R oast in a 3 5 0 °F /1 7 7 °C oven
until the garlic cloves are quite soft,
usually 30 to 45 m inutes. A nyjuices
th a t run fro m the garlic w ill brown. The
aroma should be sw eet and pleasing
w ith no hints o f harshness or sulfur.
S eparate the cloves and squeeze the
roasted g arlic fro m the skins or pass
the unpeeled cloves through a foo d mill.

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 preparation techniques for specific vegetables
A leek grows in layers, trapping grit and sand between each layer, and one of
the biggest concerns when working with leeks is removing every trace of dirt.
Careful rinsing is essential.

1 . To clean leeks, rinse o f f all th e surface d irt, paying special a tte n tio n
to th e ro o ts, w here d ir t clings. Lay th e leek on th e c u ttin g board, and use a
c h e fs k n ife to trim aw ay th e heavy, dark green poi tio n o f th e leaves. By c u t­
tin g on an angle, you can avoid losing th e te n d e r lig h t green p o rtio n o f the
leek. Reserve th e da rk green p o rtio n o f th e leek to make b o uq ue t g a rni o r fo r
o th e r uses.

2. Trim away m o st o f th e ro o t end. Cut th e leek le ng th w ise in to halves,

th ird s , o r q u a rte rs. Rinse th e leek under running w a te r to rem ove any rem a in­
ing g r it o r sand.
Cut th e leek in to th e de sire d shape. Leeks may be le ft in halves o r q u a rte rs
w ith th e stem end s t ill in ta c t f o r braising. O r th e y may be c u t in to slices,
c h iffo n a d e , dice, o r paysanne cuts.

c h a p te r 21 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS 635

Tomatoes

Fresh and canned tomatoes are used in a number of dishes. They can be cut
with various knives as well as sliced using an electric slicer.
Tomatoes have a skin that clings tightly to the flesh, and the interior
contains pockets of seeds and juice. When the tomato is peeled, seeded, and
chopped, it is known as tomato concasse. The techniques for seeding and
chopping or dicing can be used for both fresh and canned tomatoes. Whole or
sliced tomatoes can be roasted to intensify their flavor and change their tex­
ture.

preparing tomato concasse

Tomato concasse is required for preparation or finishing many different sauces
and dishes. Only make enough in advance to last through a single service
period; once peeled and chopped, tomatoes begin to lose flavor and texture.
Tomatoes can be cut into different sizes, depending on their use. Fine con­
casse should be used for garnishing, while rough concasse can be used for all
other purposes, such as an ingredient in a dish or sauce.

1. Score an X in to the b o tto m o f each to m a to , b u t be sure not to cut to o

deeply. Remove the stem core.

2. B ring a p o t o f w a te r to a ro llin g boil. Have an ice bath ready to shock the

to m a to e s. Drop th e to m a to e s in to th e w a te r. Blanch the to m a to e s in b o ilin g
w a te r f o r 10 to 15 seconds, de pe nd ing on th e ir ripeness, the n rem ove the m and
shock the m in ice w ater.

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 preparation techniques for specific vegetables
3

Precision cuts

3. Use a pa rin g k n ife to peel aw ay th e skin. If th e to m a to was p ro p e rly To prepare tomatoes so that they can
blanched, none o f th e fle s h w ill be rem oved fro m th e to m a to e s. be cut into precise julienne, dice, loz­
enge, or similar cuts, trim the tomato
4. Halve th e to m a to crossw ise a t its w id e s t p o in t. (Cut plum to m a to e s flesh so that it has an even thickness.
le ng th w ise to seed the m m ore easily.) G en tly squeeze o u t th e seeds. For a Halve or quarter the peeled tomato,
m ore pre cise cut, q u a rte r th e to m a to e s and cu t aw ay th e seeds. For a rough cutting from stem to blossom end.
chop, sim p ly squeeze o u t th e seeds. The seeds and ju ice s o f th e to m a to may Using the tip of a knife, cut away any
be pre serve d f o r o th e r p re p a ra tio n s. seeds and membranes. This tech­
nique is sometimes referred to as fil­
5. The d e fin itio n o f a concasse calls fo r a rough chop, b u t the peeled and leting. (It is also used for peppers and
seeded to m a to e s can be cut as desired. chiles.) Cut the flesh into julienne or
other shapes, as desired.
Tomatoes prepared in this way
may be used as garnish for hot items
such as soups or sauces. They may
also be used in cold preparations
such as salads or in the production
of hors d’oeuvre, where they can be
used as a base or finely chopped for a
colorful and flavorful garnish. Peeled
and cut tomatoes will have a ten­
dency to weep, so when using them
for cold preparations, be sure to cut
and assemble as close to service as
possible.

C hapter 21 » M IS E EN P L A C E FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS 637

Fresh peppers and chiles

Peppers and chiles are used in dishes from cuisines as diverse as those of Cen­
tral and South America, many Asian countries, Spain, and Hungary. As the
interest in peppers and chiles has grown, many special varieties have become
available, both fresh and dried. For more information about working with
dried chiles, see page 645. Whenever working with very hot chiles, wear plas­
tic gloves to protect your skin from the irritating oils they contain.

cutting and seeding fresh peppers and chiles

Cut through the pepper from top to bottom. Continue to cut it into quarters,
especially if the pepper is large.
Use the tip of a paring knife to cut away the stem and seeds. This cut re­
moves the least amount of usable pepper. Chiles retain a good deal of their heat
in the seeds, ribs, and blossom ends. The degree of heat can be controlled by
adjusting how much, if any, of these parts of the chile is added to a dish.

1. You can make ve ry fine , even ju lie n n e or dice by fille tin g the p e p p e r—
th a t is, rem o ving th e seeds and rib s — b e fo re c u ttin g it. Cut away th e to p and
b o tto m o f th e pe pp er to cre a te an even rectan gle. Roll th e pepper away fro m
the paring k n ife as you cu t th e seeds and rib s away to cre a te a long rectan gle
o f pepper th a t can be cu t as desired.

2. Peel away th e skin, if desired, and then cu t th e fle s h in to neat ju lie n n e or

dice. For a m ore precise p re p a ra tio n , use a c h e fs k n ife to cu t away a th in layer
o f th e in te rio r fle s h to make a co m p le te ly f la t surface. This w ill cre a te m ore
square, u n ifo rm ju lie n n e o r dice. Reserve any ed ib le scraps to use in purees or
coulis, or to fla v o r b ro th s and stew s.

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 preparation techniques for specific vegetabl
Peppers and chiles are often peeled before they are used in a dish, to improve
the dish’s flavor or texture, or both.

1 . Peppers and chiles are o fte n charred in a flam e , b ro ile d o r g rille d , or

ro a ste d in a v e ry h o t oven to produce a deep, rich fla v o r as w e ll as to make
the pe pp er ea sie r to peel. To ro a s t and peel sm all q u a n titie s o f fre s h peppers
or chiles, hold th e p e pp er over a m edium fla m e o f a gas b u rne r w ith to n g s or
a kitch e n fo rk , o r place th e p e pp er on a g rill. Turn th e p e pp er and ro a s t it u n til
the surface is evenly charred. Place th e pepper in a p la s tic o r pa pe r bag or a
covered bow l and le t stan d f o r a t le a st 30 m in utes to stea m th e skin loose. C/3

2. When th e p e pp er is cool enough to handle, use a pa rin g k n ife to rem ove

th e charred skin. Have a bow l o f w a te r nearby to rinse th e charred skin o f f o f
your k n ife as you w o rk. To rem ove any b its o f charred skin th a t rem ain on the
pepper, rub lig h tly w ith a to w e l.
La rge r q u a n titie s o f p eppers o r chiles are o fte n ro a ste d in a h o t oven or
under a b ro ile r, ra th e r than charred in d iv id u a lly over a flam e . Halve th e pe p ­
pers or chiles and rem ove th e stem s, seeds, and rib s if desired. (The peppers
or chiles may also be le ft whole.) Place cu t side down on an oiled she et pan.
Place th e pan in a ve ry h o t oven or under a bro ile r. R oast o r b ro il u n til evenly
charred. Remove fro m th e oven or b ro ile r and cover im m e d ia te ly, using an
in ve rte d she et pan. L e t stan d f o r 30 m inutes to steam th e peppers and make
th e skin ea sie r to rem ove.

c h a p te r 21 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HER BS 639

Mushrooms Chestnuts

Clean mushrooms just before preparing them by rinsing quickly in cool wa­ To peel chestnuts using a paring
ter, only long enough to remove any dirt. Do not allow the mushrooms to knife or chestnut knife, cut an X in
soak; they absorb liquids quickly, and an excess of moisture will cause them the flat side of each nut just through
to deteriorate rapidly. (Some people clean mushrooms by wiping them with the outer skin. Boil or roast the
a soft cloth or brushing them with a soft-bristled brush; this is not always chestnuts just until the skin begins
practical in a professional kitchen.) Let the mushrooms drain and dry well on to pull away. Work in small batches,
layers of paper towels before slicing or mincing. keeping the chestnuts warm, pull
Cook mushrooms as soon as possible after they are cut for the best flavor, and cut away the tough outer skin
color, and consistency in the finished dish. Avoid cutting more than needed at and peel off the brown inner skin.
any given time. Cooked chestnuts can be left whole,
Some mushrooms must have the stems removed. Shiitakes, for example, pureed, sweetened, or glazed.
have very tough, woody stems; cut them away from the caps and save for
stock or to flavor sauces. The stems of other mushrooms, such as white mush­
rooms, morels, and cepes, can usually be left intact, although a slice should be
cut away from the stem end to trim dried or fibrous portions.
If possible, rest the mushroom on a flat side to provide more stability
as you slice through it. Holding the mushroom cap with your guiding hand,
make slices through the cap and stem (if it has not been trimmed off). To cut
a large amount efficiently, slice the mushrooms so that the slices are layered.
Then cut across the slices at the desired thickness to create julienne strips.
Turn the julienne strips so that they are parallel to the edge of the work sur­
face. Make crosswise cuts to mince the mushrooms for use in duxelles or
other applications.

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 preparation techniques for specific vegetabl
Corn Peapods

Whole ears of corn can be boiled Snow peas and sugar snap peas both
or steamed after the husk has been have edible pods and are typically
peeled off and the fine threads, eaten raw, steamed, or stir-fried.
known as silk, that cling to the corn They should be carefully selected for
have been pulled away. Once husked, freshness as their quality and flavor
cook the corn as soon as possible. deteriorate quickly. Their peak sea­
Remove the husk and silk. To son is early spring to summer.
cut the kernels away from the cob, Snow peas and sugar snap peas,
hold the ear upright and cut down­ depending upon the variety, often
ward as close to the cob as possible. have a rather tough string that runs
To “milk” the corn, lay the ear down along one seam. Remove this string
on a cutting board and lightly score before cooking the peas. Snap off the
each row of kernels. Use the back of stem end, using either a paring knife
a knife, a spoon, or a butter curler to or your fingers, and pull. The string
scrape out the flesh and milk. will come away easily.

c h a p te r 21 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS 641

Asparagus

Young asparagus may need no further preparation than a simple trim to re­
move the very ends of the stalk, and a quick rinse. More mature asparagus
may need to have the stalk trimmed a little more and partially peeled to re­
move the outer skin, which can be tough and stringy.
As asparagus matures, the stalk becomes tough. To remove the woody
portion, bend the stalk gently until it snaps. Use a special asparagus peeler or
a swivel-bladed peeler to peel the remaining stalk partway up; this enhances
palatability and also makes it easier to cook the asparagus evenly.
Asparagus may be tied into loose portion-size bundles to make it easier to re­
move them from boiling water when they are blanched or boiled. Don’t tie them
too tightly or make the bundles more than a few inches in diameter. Otherwise
the asparagus in the middle will not cook properly.

642 V E G E T A B L E S . POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 preparation techniques for specific vegetabl
Artichokes

Artichoke leaves have sharp barbs, like thorns. The edible meat of the arti­
choke is found at the base of each leaf, which grows from a stem, as well as at
the fleshy base of the vegetable, known as the heart. Artichokes have a purple,
feathery center—the choke—that is inedible in mature artichokes. The choke
in baby artichokes may be tender enough to eat.
To prepare whole artichokes, first cut away part or all of the stem. The
amount of stem removed is determined by how the artichoke is to be present­
ed, as well as by how tender or tough the stem is. Cutting away the stem even
with the bottom of the artichoke makes a flat surface, allowing the artichoke
to sit flat on the plate. If the artichoke is to be halved or quartered, some of
the stem may be left intact. Peel the stem with a paring knife. Cut off the up­
per part of the top of the artichoke. Snip the barbs from each leaf with kitchen
scissors. Rub the cut surfaces with lemon juice to prevent browning, or hold
the trimmed artichoke in acidulated water (a mixture of lemon juice and wa­
ter) or a blanc. To remove the choke, spread open the leaves of the artichoke.
The choke can now be scooped out with a spoon.

1 . To pre pa re a rtic h o k e b o tto m s , make a cu t th ro u g h th e a rtic h o k e a t its

w id e s t p o in t, ju s t above th e a rtic h o k e b o tto m .

2. Use a pa rin g k n ife to trim th e to u g h o u te r leaves away fro m th e a r t i­

choke b o tto m .

3. Scoop o u t th e c e n te r o f th e a rtic h o k e b o tto m , known as th e choke. Hold

trim m e d a rtich o ke b o tto m s in a cid u la te w a te r to pre ve n t brow ning.

c h a p te r 21 » M I 5 E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS 643

 1

Avocados

Avocados have a rough, thick skin and a large pit. Avocados, like potatoes,
bananas, and artichokes, turn brown when they are exposed to air. To prevent
browning, cut avocados as close to the time of service as possible. Citrus juice
both brightens the flavor of this rich but relatively bland food and prevents
the flesh from turning brown.
To remove the skin and pit from an avocado, hold it securely but gently
with the fingertips of your guiding hand. Insert a knife blade into the bottom of
the avocado. Turn the avocado against the knife blade to make a cut completely
around it. The cut should pierce the skin and cut through the flesh up to the pit.
Peel the avocado and cut it lengthwise into wedges or slices. To dice the
avocado, cut crosswise through the wedges. The flesh is soft enough to puree
easily when properly ripened.

1. T w ist the tw o halves o f a sliced avocado away fro m each o th e r and pull
g e n tly to separate them .

2. Since it can be d iff ic u lt to pick o u t th e p it w ith you r fin g e rtip s w ith o u t

m angling th e fle sh , scoop it o u t w ith a spoon, rem oving as little fle s h as pos­
sible, o r c a re fu lly chop th e heel o f th e k n ife in to th e p it then t w is t and pull the
p it fre e fro m th e fle sh . To rem ove the p it fro m th e k n ife safe ly, use th e edge o f
th e c u ttin g board or th e lip o f a c o n ta in e r to pry the p it free.

3. To peel th e avocado, catch th e skin betw een th e ball o f your th u m b and

the f la t side o f a k n ife blade and pull it fre e fro m th e flesh.

644 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 general guidelines for vegetable and herb mise en place
working with dried vegetables and fruits
Dried veg etab le s and fr u its have alw ays been used in many cuisines. D rying makes fo o d s
su ita b le f o r lo n g -te rm storag e and co n ce n tra te s th e ir fla vo rs.
Even tod ay, some veg etab le s and fr u its are to o perishable to tra n s p o rt g re a t d ista n c­
es, o r th e y have a very s h o rt season. The re s t o f th e year, th e y can be fo u n d only in a p re ­
served fo rm . The fla v o r o f d ried chiles, m ushroom s, to m a to e s, and fr u its such as apples,
cherries, and raisins are special even though th o se same in g re d ie n ts may be purchased
fre s h th ro u g h o u t th e year.
To g e t th e m o st fro m these ingre die nts, recipes may o fte n call f o r the m to be rehy­
dra te d o r "p lum p ed” by soaking the m in a liquid. To reh ydra te dried veg etab le s and fru its ,
check f ir s t f o r in sect in fe s ta tio n and rem ove any obvious d e bris or seriou sly blem ished or
m oldy specim ens.
Place th e v eg etab le o r f r u it in a bow l o r o th e r c o n ta in e r and add enough bo ilin g or very
ho t liquid (water, w ine, f r u it juice, or b ro th ) to cover. L e t th e ve g e ta b le o r f r u it stee p in the
h o t w a te r f o r several m inutes, u n til s o ft and plum ped. Pour o f f th e liquid, rese rving it, if
desired, f o r use in an o th e r pre pa ration . If necessary, s tra in it th ro u g h a c o ffe e f ilt e r or
cheesecloth to rem ove any debris.
O th er dried fr u its and veg etab le s may be to a s te d o r charred in a fla m e or on a g ridd le
o r heated pan to s o fte n them . Some m ay be to a s te d and then rehydrated.
Toast dried chiles in the same m anner as d ried spices, nuts, and seeds, by to s s in g them
in a d ry s k ille t over m edium heat. A lte rn a tiv e ly , pass them re p e a te d ly th ro u g h a fla m e u n til
to a s te d and so fte n e d . Break or c u t open the chile and shake o u t th e seeds. Scrape the pulp
and seeds fro m th e skin or use th e w hole chile, according to the recipe. A fte r to a stin g ,
reh ydra te th e chile in a h o t liquid.

general guidelines for vegetable and

herb mise en place
One o f th e ways to d istin g u ish a novice fro m a seasoned che f is th e way each one approach­
es th e ta s k o f c u ttin g vegetables and herbs. The goal is con sisten cy and speed. W ith o u t
pra ctice, it is im p ossib le to achieve either.
To b e tte r approach veg etab le m ise en place, s ta r t by fig u rin g o u t the p ro p e r tim in g
o f th e w ork. M ake a lis t and p rio ritiz e ta sks so th a t fo o d s th a t can be prepared w ell in ad­
vance are done fir s t, w h ile tho se th a t lose fla v o r or co lo r when cu t to o ea rly are done as
close to service or cooking tim e as possible. M aking such a lis t involves know ledge o f the
menu, o f tim e e stim a te s f o r th e meal pe rio ds ( if known) f o r which th e veg etab le s are being
cut, and o f stan dard kitche n p ra ctice s f o r holding c u t vegetables.
Think o u t the w o rk ca re fu lly b e fo re beginning. A ssem ble all th e to o ls needed, including
con tain ers to hold unprepped vegetables, prepped vegetables, usable trim , and trim th a t
is n o t useful. A ssem ble th e peelers, knives, and steel. Hone the knives (including th e paring
kn ife ) at th e s ta rt and durin g th e work.
Wash veg etab le s and herbs b e fo re doing any in itia l trim w o rk to avoid g e ttin g th e w ork
surface unnecessarily d irty . Spin d ry le a fy greens and herbs b e fo re you cu t them .

Chapter 21 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS 645

 Arrange th e w o rk in a logical flo w , so th a t th in g s are p o sitio n e d w ith in easy reach. This
makes the w o rk easier, fa ste r, less w a ste fu l, and m ore co m fo rta b le .
Keep all to o ls and your w o rk surface clean and fre e fro m debris. Remove trim as it ac­
cum ulates, b e fo re it has a chance to fa ll on the flo o r. W ipe down kn ife blades and c u ttin g
boards betw een phases o f w ork. S anitize all c u ttin g and w o rk surfaces when you sw itch
fro m one fo o d ite m to another. Wash your hands, too, and rem em ber to use gloves if the
vegetables w ill n o t be cooked b e fo re being served to guests.
In a d d itio n to the techniques and p re p a ra tio n s already discussed, veg etab le cookery
o fte n requires know ledge o f o th e r techniques, m any o f which can be fo u n d elsewhere in
th is book:

P re p a rin g le a fy g reens (see pages 1 4 8 to 159)

T oastin g spices, nuts, and seeds (see page 3 6 2 )

Z e s tin g c itru s fr u its and c u ttin g suprem es (see page 8 9 1 )

P re p a rin g f r u its (see pages 8 9 0 to 8 9 3 )

M arinad es (see pages 3 7 2 to 3 7 4)

S ta n d a rd b re ad ing p ro ce d u re (see page 3 6 5 )

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Vegetables are far more important in contemporary menu planning than simply
as a side-dish afterthought. They can be the focal part of a meatless entree. They
can be selected and prepared to enhance another dish. Orthey can be served as
an appetjzer or hois d’oeuvre. Buying vegetables that are at the peak of quality,
observing proper storage and handling standards, and giving meticulous attention
to the cooking process are vital to producing an appealing vegetable dish.
 B oiling is a fu n d a m e n t a l v e g e t a b le cooking techn iq u e that can result in a w ide range

O F T E X T U R E S A N D F L A V O R S , D E P E N D I N G U P O N H O W T H E T E C H N I Q U E IS A P P L I E D . V E G E T A B L E S M A Y

BE B L A N C H E D , P A R C O O K E D OR P A R B O I L E D , OR F U L L Y C O O K E D . B O I L E D V E G E T A B L E S C A N BE S E R V E D

C H I L L E D , A D D E D TO A N O T H E R D I S H S U C H A S A S T E W TO F I N I S H C O O K I N G , G L A Z E D O R F I N I S H E D IN

B U T T E R O R O I L , O R U S E D TO M A K E A P U R E E . A L M O S T A L L V E G E T A B L E S C A N B E B O I L E D , A S L O N G A S T H E

A P P R O P R I A T E M O D I F I C A T I O N S A R E M A D E TO T H E B O I L I N G P R O C E S S .

boiling
Prepare vegetables f o r b o ilin g by p ro p e rly rin sing o r scrub bing the m to rem ove all traces
o f d irt. They may be trim m e d and cu t b e fo re cooking, o r th e y may be cooked whole, a cco rd­
ing to th e vegetable's nature as w e ll as th e in te nd ed p re se n ta tio n . If th e veg etab le has a
ten den cy to tu rn brown once it is cut and exposed to the air (as a rtich o ke s do), t r y to cut it
im m e d ia te ly b e fo re cooking, or hold th e veg etab le subm erged in plain o r a cidu lated w ater.
However, exte nde d storag e in w ater, once veg etab le s are peeled or cut, can rob the m o f
flavo r, te x tu re , and n u tritio n a l value. V egetables boile d w hole o r cu t should be o f a sim ilar
size, shape, and d ia m e te r to assure even cooking.
W a te r is th e m o st com m only used liquid f o r boiling, though o th e r liquids may be used
depending on th e desired fla v o r o f th e fin ish e d dish. A dd in g s a lt and o th e r seasonings to
th e liquid enhances th e fla v o r o f a vegetable. A d d itio n a l fla v o r and in te re s t can be p ro ­
vided w ith fin is h in g and ga rnishin g ingredients.
D elicate green veg etab le s m ust be cooked in sm all batches in heavily sa lte d w a te r th a t
should never sto p boiling, and the y m ust always be shocked in ice w a te r a fte r cooking. If
cooking a large volum e o f green vegetables, cook the m in batches so th a t the w a te r te m ­
p e rature has tim e to recover and is alw ays boiling. A dd in g s a lt to th e w a te r f o r p arcooking
green veg etab le s bo osts fla v o r and helps th e w a te r come up to te m p e ra tu re fa s te r and
recover fa ste r. When shocking green vegetables, shock the m in ice w a te r. D ilute th e s a lt in
a sm all am ount o f w arm o r h o t w a te r and the n add to ice w ater.
S elect the p o t size in re la tio n to the am ount o f fo o d being prepared. It should hold
th e vegetables, liquid, and a ro m a tics c o m fo rta b ly , w ith enough room f o r th e liquid to ex­
pand as it heats. Leave enough headspace fo r th e surface to be skim m ed if necessary. A
tig h t - f it t in g lid is h e lp fu l f o r bring ing th e liquid up to te m p e ra tu re , b u t it is n o t essential.
Some green vegetables, f o r exam ple, w ill disco lo r i f le ft covered durin g th e w hole cooking
process. Leaving a lid on th ro u g h o u t th e cooking process may sho rte n cooking tim e , b u t be
sure to check th e veg etab le s p e rio d ic a lly to avoid ove rcoo king the m or d isco lo ra tio n .
O ther useful equipm ent includes colanders or strainers fo r draining; equipm ent fo r cooling
vegetables cooked in advance; holding containers to keep the vegetables warm; and spoons,
ladles, or skim m ers fo r cooking, tasting, and serving.
Season th e cooking liquid and b ring it to the p ro p e r coo kin g te m p e ra tu re b e fo re add­
ing the prepared vegetables. The am ount o f liquid req uire d varies, depending on th e typ e
and a m ount o f veg etab le and th e length o f cooking tim e . In general, th e re should be enough
w a te r to hold th e veg etab le s c o m fo rta b ly , w ith o u t excessive crow ding. Add s a lt and any
o th e r seasonings o r a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts to th e liquid.

648 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

D basic formula
Boiled Green
Vegetables
(10 servings)
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped
vegetables (weighed after
trimming, peeling, and cutting)
Enough salted cold water to
generously cover the vegetables
in the pot and allow them to
move freely (about 6:1 water
to vegetable). Use 2 oz/57 g
salt per gallon of water.
method
at-a-glance
1. Bring the liquid to a fu ll boil
and add the seasonings and
aromatics.
2. Add the vegetable.
3. Cook it to the desired
doneness.
4 . Drain the vegetable.
5. Serve the vegetable, or
refresh and hold it.
Boiled Root Boiled Red or White
GTQ
Vegetables Vegetables
(10 servings) (10 servings)
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped 2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped
vegetables (weighed after vegetables (weighed after
trimming, peeling, and cutting) trimming, peeling, and cutting
Enough salted cold water Enough cold water to hold the
to generously cover the vegetables without crowding
vegetables in the pot
4 fl oz/120 mL vinegar, lemon juice,
or other acid per gallon of water
Determining doneness is a crucial aspect of all vegetable prep­
arations, but it is especially important in boiling, the most basic technique:
BLANCHED: Im m e r s e v e g e ta b le s b r ie f ly , u s u a lly 3 0 s e c o n d s t o 1 m in u t e , d e ­
p e n d in g o n t y p e o f v e g e ta b le a n d r ip e n e s s , in b o ilin g w a t e r t o m a k e t h e s k in
e a s y t o r e m o v e , t o e lim in a t e o r r e d u c e s t r o n g o d o rs o r f la v o r s , t o s e t t h e
c o lo r f o r s e r v in g c o ld , a n d / o r as t h e f i r s t s t e p in o t h e r c o o k in g t e c h n iq u e s .
PARCOOKED/PARBOILED: V e g e ta b le s a re c o o k e d t o p a r t ia l d o n e n e s s t o p r e p a re
th e m f o r f in is h in g b y g r illin g , s a u te in g , p a n fr y in g , d e e p fr y in g , o r s te w in g .
TEN D ER-CRISP OR AL DENTE: C o o k v e g e ta b le s u n t il t h e y c an b e b i t t e n in t o e a s ­
ily b u t s t i l l o f f e r a s lig h t r e s is t a n c e a n d s e n s e o f t e x t u r e . (T h e t e r m al dente,
w h ic h is It a li a n f o r " t o t h e to o th ," is m o r e a c c u r a t e ly u s e d t o d e s c rib e t h e
d e s ir e d d o n e n e s s o f p a s ta r a t h e r th a n v e g e ta b le s .)
c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S 649
 1. bring the water to a rolling boii
b e fo re adding m o st veg etab le s, exce pt dense or sta rch y
ro o t vegetables. (These vegetables, such as tu rn ip s and
celeriac, are s ta rte d in cold w a te r th a t is then bro u g h t to
a b o il fo r even cooking.) For th e b e st co lo r in red cabbage,
beets, and w h ite veg etab le s, cover th e p o t a fte r placing
the m in th e b o ilin g w a te r. This helps re ta in acids th a t set
th e co lo r in th e se veg etab le s. Cover the p o t when b o iling
orange and ye llo w v e g e ta b le s such as c a rro ts and squash,
if desired. Green veg etab le s such as bro ccoli, asparagus,
or green beans, should be bo ile d uncovered to produce a
good green c o lo r in th e cooked vegetable.
Once th e veg etab le s are added to the pot, leave the
heat on high to b rin g th e w a te r back to a rapid bo il and
con tinu e to cook th e veg etab le s to th e a p p ro p ria te done­
ness.
V egetables should be rem oved fro m th e w a te r e ith e r
by dra in ing o f f th e coo kin g liq u id th ro u g h a colander or
sieve or by liftin g th e veg etab le s fro m th e w a te r w ith a
s p id e r or skim m er.

2. finish and season th e veg etab le s now

m eth o d in d etail (see Finishing and G lazing V egetables by Sauteing, page
670). They may also be ra p id ly chille d to sto p any fu rth e r,
to cool th e m f o r service in a cold dish, o r to hold the m fo r
la te r service.
The pro ced ure fo r coo lin g vegetables, som etim es
re fe rre d to as shocking or refresh in g, is as fo llo w s : A fte r
you drain th e veg etab le s, subm erge the m in very cold or
ice w a te r long enough to cool the m u n til th e y are th o r ­
oughly chilled. As soon as th e y are cool, drain the m again,
place the m in storag e con tain ers, cover, and re frig e ra te .
V egetables should n o t be allow ed to s it in w a te r fo r ex­
te n d e d p e rio d s o f tim e.
S ta rch y v eg etab le s w ith sta b le pigm ents, such as
tu rn ip s, parsnips, o r ca rro ts , are be st cooled by sp re a d ­
ing the m o u t in to a single layer and placin g in a cool spo t
b e fo re re frig e ra tin g . Taste th e vegetable. It should have
a good, fre s h fla vo r. M o s t boile d veg etab le s served hot
should be tender, y e t s till hold th e ir o rig in a l shape. The
c o lo r should be appealing. Green veg etab le s should be
a deep or b rig h t green w ith no tra ce s o f gray o r yellow.
W h ite veg etab le s should be w h ite or ivory. Red ve g e ta ­
bles should be deeper in color; some ta ke on a purple or
m agenta color, b u t n o t blue or green.
Taste and eva lu ate veg etab le s if the y are held during
service, and replace th e m w ith a fre s h batch as necessary
du rin g service.

650 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 S t e a m e d v e g e t a b l e s a r e c o o k e d in a v a p o r b a t h to p r o d u c e d i s h e s t h a t h a v e p u r e ,u ndiluted

f l a v o r s . S team in g sh a r e s m a n y sim ilarities w ith boiling a s a cooking tech n iq u e for

VEGETABLES. A ny V E G E T A B L E T H A T C A N BE B O I L E D C A N A L S O BE S T E A M E D . It W O U L D BE H A R D F OR

M O S T P E O P L E TO T E L L S T E A M E D A N D B O I L E D C A R R O T S A P A R T I F T H E Y W E R E P R E S E N T E D S I D E B Y S I D E .

B ut T H E R E ARE SOME DIFFERENCES.

steaming
Since stea m ing cooks throu gh d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith steam ra th e r than liquid, some steam ed
veg etab le s may be less soggy than th e same veg etab le boiled. S team ed vegetables are
ge ne rally considered to have b e tte r n u tritio n a l value, as well.
Prepare vegetables fo r stea m ing as you w ould fo r boiling. A ll veg etab le s should be
p ro p e rly rinsed or scrubbed, peeled, trim m e d , and cu t to shape as close to th e tim e o f se r­
vice as reasonable.
A ltho ug h th e m o st com m only used stea m ing liquid is w ater, fla v o rfu l stocks, broths, or
o th e r a ro m a tic liquids are som e tim es used to replace some o r all o f th e w ater. The am ount
o f liquid re q u ire d depends on how long th e veg etab le w ill ta ke to cook: th e sh o rte r the
cooking tim e , th e less liquid needed.
Salt, pepper, and o th e r seasonings may be com bined w ith th e veg etab le s as th e y steam
or as th e y are fin ish e d f o r service. A ro m a tic vegetables, spices, herbs, o r c itru s z est can be
added to th e stea m ing liquid to produce sp e c ific fla v o rs . S team ed veg etab le s may be re ­
heated o r fin is h e d w ith fla v o rfu l oils, b u tte r, heavy cream, o r a sauce.
The q u a n tity o f veg etab le s to be steam ed de te rm in e s the c o rre c t equipm ent. Small
am ounts can be steam ed using an in sert. Larger q u a n titie s , o r a com b in a tio n o f vegetables
th a t req uire d iffe re n t cooking tim e s, are b e tte r prepared in tie re d steam ers, pressure
steam ers, or convection steam ers. It is im p o rta n t to allow enough room f o r steam to circu­
la te c o m p le te ly around fo o d s as the y cook to encourage even, rapid cooking.
Also have on hand the to o ls needed f o r handling th e veg etab le s f o r service or f o r hold­
ing, and con tain ers to hold sauces, spoons, ladles, and o th e r s erving utensils.

c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S
 basic formula

Steamed Vegetables Enough cooking liquid to produce Seasoning to add to the vegetables
(10 servings) steam throughout the cooking and/or the cooking liquid
tim e (fo r a depth o f 2 to 3 in /
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped
5 to 8 cm in the cooking vessel)
vegetables (weighed a fter
trimm ing, peeling, and cutting)

method
at-a-glance
1. Bring the liquid to a fu ll boil expert tips
and add the seasoning and
aromatics.

2. Add the vegetable to the

Vegetables are flavo rful on th e ir own, but to add ad­
ditional flavor to a steamed vegetable try one or a combination o f the follow ­
steamer in a single layer.
ing. Replace some or all o f the w ater with:
3. Steam the vegetable to the
BROTH / VEG ETAB LE JUICES OR F R U IT JUICES SUCH AS O R ANG E, APPLE, C R A N ­
desired doneness.
B E R R Y /S T O C K
4. Serve the vegetable or
refresh and hold it.
Depending on the desired result, the steamingliquidcan
be flavored w ith aromatic vegetables:

CAR R OTS / C ELE R Y / O N IO N S

Depending on the desired result, thesteamingliquidcan

be flavored w ith herbs or spices:

BAY LEA F / W H O LE OR CHO PPED G A R LIC / W HOLE OR CHO PPED P A R SLEY /

W H O LE OR CHO PPED T H Y M E / C O R IA N D E R / CRACKED PEPPERCORNS /

C U M IN /G R A T E D GING ER

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
1. bring the liquid to a full boil in
th e b o tto m o f a covered steam er. A rrange th e veg etab le s
in a single layer on a s te a m e r in s e rt o r t ie r to allow the
steam to come in to c o n ta c t w ith all sides o f th e veg­
etable. Add seasonings to th e veg etab le s b e fo re th e y go
in to th e s te a m e r f o r th e b e st fla v o r de velopm ent. As the
liq u id com es to a boil, it produces the stea m to cook the
veg etab le s. Cover th e s te a m e r to b ring th e liquid to a bo il
fa s te r and tra p th e stea m inside th e vessel.
A dd in g seasonings to th e liquid a t th e beginning helps
release th e ir fla v o rs . B e fo re p u ttin g th e s te a m e r over
d ire c t heat, add any de sire d a ro m a tics or seasonings to
the stea m ing liquid so th a t th e y can release th e ir fla v o r
in to th e steam m ore e ffe c tiv e ly .
Steam th e veg etab le s to th e desired doneness.
Doneness is d e te rm in e d by how th e p a rtic u la r veg etab le
w ill be handled once it is steam ed. S team ed veg etab le s
may be handled in th e same w ays as boile d veg etab le s.

2. properly steamed vegetables

should have good fla v o r and v ib ra n t color. Be sure to ta s te
the v e g e ta b le to assess n o t only th e fla v o r b u t also th e
te x tu re . The te x tu re s m ay v a ry fro m ve ry crisp (blanched
veg etab le s) to te n d e r enough to puree. P ro p e rly steam ed
bro ccoli, fo r exam ple, should be b rig h t green, and you
should be able to pierce the stem w ith a pa rin g k n ife w ith
litt le resista nce . Seasonings should enhance th e fla v o r o f
th e dish. Unless th e y are m eant to be served chilled, veg­
eta ble s should be ve ry h o t when served to th e guest.

c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S 653
 Pan stea m in g is a good a la m inute techn iq u e for s m a l l batches or individual o r d er s .

P a n -s t ea m ed v e g e t a b le s are prepared in a c o v e r e d pot with a r ela t iv e ly s m a l l a m o u n t of

liquid . U s u a l l y the liqjjid b a r e l y co vers the v e g e t a b l e s , and m o st of the cooking o ccu rs

BY STEAMING.

pan steaming
Speed is a m ajor advantage o f th is technique. Green vegetables, such as green beans,
th a t som etim es d is c o lo r when cooked in a covered pan are done qu ickly enough to retain
a b rig h t color. A n o th e r advantage is th a t the cooking liquid can be reduced to make a pan
sauce or glaze.
Pan stea m ing is e ffe c tiv e because vegetables cook ve ry q u ickly b e fo re th e y lose sig­
n ific a n t flavo r, color, te x tu re , o r n u tritiv e value. To sho rte n th e to ta l am ount o f tim e the
vegetables spend in th e pan, some chefs like to have th e liquid already a t a simmer. In ad d i­
tio n , th is p e rm its th e ch e f to ste e p the liquid w ith seasonings and a ro m a tics such as shal­
lo ts and ginger. This infuses th e cooking liquid and the steam fo r a m ore fla v o rfu l fin ish e d
dish.
Vegetables o f v irtu a lly all s o rts can be prepared by pan steam ing. Inspect the ve g e ta ­
bles f o r q u a lity and freshness. Rinse, trim , peel, and cu t th e veg etab le as close to cooking
tim e as possible f o r th e b e st fla v o r and n u tritio n . A ll cuts should be precise and uniform ,
to ensure even cooking and th e b e st fla v o r and te x tu re in th e fin ish e d dish. Hold cut veg­
etables covered and re frig e ra te d when necessary.
W a te r is o fte n used to prepare pan-steam ed vegetables, b u t stocks or bro th s can be
used fo r added flavo r, if desired. Check th e seasoning o f any cooking liquid and add sa lt or
o th e r fla vo rin g s, including wine, f r u it juice, herbs, spices, or a ro m a tic v egetables like leeks
or shallots.
Sw eeteners, includ in g w h ite or brow n sugar, m aple syrup, honey, and m olasses, can be
added to glaze a vegetable, if desired. If th e cooking liquid w ill be used to prepare a pan
sauce, have on hand a d d itio n a l seasonings o r garnishes, thicke ne rs, cream, o r liaison, as
in dica ted by th e recipe.

654 VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 13
P
P
D basic formula cn
c+
rt>
Pan-Steamed Enough seasoned cooking liquid Additional ingredients or
p
Vegetables to last throughout cooking time preparations as specified
(10 portions) (enough to barely cover the
vegetables in the cooking vessel)
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped vegetables 2
(weighed after trimming and cutting)
Q
TQ

m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
Add enough cooking liquid e x p e rt tips
to properly cook the
vegetables. Use a tig h t-
fittin g lid. To develop additional flavor, choose well-seasoned poach­
ing liquids:
Check throughout cooking
fo r water level and STOCK / F R U IT JUICES, SUCH AS A PPLE, O R ANG E, OR C R A N B E R R Y / BROTH

doneness.

3. Steam the vegetable to the
desired doneness.
4. If desired, remove the lid
and let the cooking liquid
Additional ingredients may be added to develop more flavor.
Add them directly to the poaching liquid to infuse flavor throughout the cook­
ing process.
M IR E P O IX /V E G E T A B L E S /F R E S H HERBS

reduce to make a glaze or

pan sauce.

5. Serve the vegetable or

refresh and hold it.

chapter 22 » CO O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S 655
 1. pour or ladle enough cooking liquid in to
the pan to p ro p e rly cook th e vegetables. Very dense veg­
eta ble s o r large cu ts w ill req uire m ore liquid than te n d e r
veg etab le s or sm all cuts. For ca rro ts, add enough liquid to
nearly cover th e vegetable. There may be a sm all am ount
o f liquid le ft a fte r coo kin g is com p le te ; th e pan should not
be allow ed to cook dry, however.
Check to see th a t th e level o f the coo kin g liquid is ad­
equate th ro u g h o u t coo kin g tim e . Covering th e pan w ith a
t ig h t - f it t in g lid cap tures th e steam released by th e coo k­
ing liquid. The steam condenses on the lid and fa lls back
on to th e veg etab le s. This means th a t any fla v o rs lo s t to
the cooking liquid are retained.

m eth o d in d etail
2. check the vegetables pe rio d ica lly
w h ile th e y are coo kin g to te s t doneness and m aintain
th e p ro p e r level o f heat. Pan-steam ed veg etab le s can
be cooked to a range o f doneness, acco rding to th e ir in ­
te n d e d use. They may be ve ry lig h tly blanched, parcooked,
o r fu lly cooked. To check f o r p ro p e r doneness, b ite or cut
in to a piece.

656 VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 pan steam ing
3. remove the cover and le t th e cooking
liquid reduce to make a pan sauce or glaze, if desired. Be­
fo re m aking a pan sauce, rem ove th e veg etab le s fro m the
pan if th e y are d e lic a te o r if th e y m ig h t ove rcoo k b e fo re
the sauce is fin is h e d . L e t th e coo kin g liquid reduce u n til
fla v o rfu l, and i f necessary add a sta rch s lu rry or beurre
manie to th icke n it. When th e sauce is done, add the veg­
eta ble s back to th e pan, and cook u n til heated through.
For sugar glazes, leave th e ve g e ta b le s in the pan w h ile the
coo kin g liquid reduces to fo rm a glaze.
Look a t th e dish, sm ell it, and ta s te it. The veg etab le
cuts should look a ttra c tiv e , u n ifo rm , and neat. The dish
should sm ell ap pe aling and r e fle c t th e seasonings and f in ­
ishing or g a rnishin g in g re d ie n ts selected . The veg etab le s
should be p ro p e rly cooked and tender, fla v o rfu l, very hot,
and w e ll seasoned.

ch a p te r 22 » C O O KING V E G E T A B L E S 657
 Th e intense heat of g rills an d b ro ilers gives v e g e t a b le s a rich , bold fla v o r . The main

R E S T R I C T I O N G O V E R N I N G W H I C H V E G E T A B L E S C A N O R C A N N O T B E B R O I L E D IS T H E I R S I Z E . E X P A N D I N G

TH E RE PER TOI RE F RO M A R E L A T I V E L Y SH O RT LIST IN CLUDIN G S U M M E R SQ.UASHES, P E P PE R S, AN D

SLICED ONIONS, C H E F S HAVE EXPERIMENTED AND SUCCEEDED AT G R I L L I N G A N D BROILING SUCH

T E N D E R V E G E T A B L E S A S H E A D S O F R A D I C C H I O TO S U C H D E N S E A N D S T U R D Y V E G E T A B L E S A S W I N T E R

S Q. UAS HES .

grilling and broiling

S elect p e rfe c tly fre s h veg etab le s fo r th e g rill w ith no s o fte n in g , d isco lo ra tio n , or w ilt ­
ing. Once selected, veg etab le s should be p ro p e rly rinsed or scrubbed. Remove the peel or
skin, core, and seeds, if a p p ro p ria te . V egetables should be cut in to u n ifo rm slices or o th e r
shapes b e fo re g rillin g o r broiling.
H ig h -m o istu re o r te n d e r vegetables can be g rille d or b ro ile d fro m the raw s ta te ; dense
or s ta rch y veg etab le s may req uire pre lim in a ry cooking to assure th o ro ug h cooking. Am ong
the veg etab le s th a t can be g rille d fro m th e raw s ta te are eggplant, zucchini, peppers, and
m ushroom s. V egetables ty p ic a lly parcooked include fennel, sw e e t p o ta to e s, ca rro ts, and
beets. Prepare the veg etab le s according to th e ty p e and desired resu lt. Rinse, trim , peel,
and cu t th e m in to even pieces. Thread th e veg etab le s on skew ers, i f desired.
S o ft veg etab le s and precooked hard veg etab le s may be m arinate d b rie fly (15 to 30
m inutes) b e fo re g rillin g or bro iling . Longer m a rin a tin g could re s u lt in th e vegetables ab­
sorb in g to o much m oistu re. If a m arinade has been used, it may be served as a sauce w ith
th e cooked vegetables. O th e r possible accom panim ents include salsa, soy sauce, vin a i­
g re tte , o r b u tte r sauce.
M a intain g rills and b ro ile rs ca re fu lly. Scour th e rods w e ll w ith a w ire g rill brush be­
tw een g rillin g d iffe re n t foo ds, as w e ll as a fte r each service period, to rem ove any buildup
o f charred fo o d pa rticle s. W ipe o f f excess residue w ith a dry tow e l. L ig h tly o il the g rill rods
b e fo re using th e g rill. Be c a re fu l n o t to use an excessive am ount as it w ill crea te excess
smoke and fla re -u p , which could be dangerous and cre a te a fir e hazard.
G rilled veg etab le s have a d is tin c tly charred flavo r. They usually have deeply browned
e xte rio rs, som e tim es w ith m arks fro m the rods. The in te rio r is ge ne rally v e ry te n d e r w ith
an intense flavo r.

658 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 grilling and broiling
D basic formula

Grilled or Broiled Oil, marinade, or glaze (optional)

Vegetables
Salt, pepper, and other seasonings
(10 servings)

2 lb 8 o z /1 .1 3 kg prepped Sauce and finishing or

vegetables (weighed a fte r garnishing ingredients
trimming, peeling, and cutting)

method
at-a-glance
1. Heat the g rill or broiler. expert tips
2. Marinate the vegetable or
brush it w ith oil.
To season the vegetables, there are many options. Apply
3. Grill or broil the vegetable each one at the appropriate time, most typically before cooking.
until it is tender and
SPIC E RUBS / M A R IN A D E S / G LAZES
properly cooked.

4. Serve the vegetable

To add additional flavor, add items to the grill fire to create an
immediately.
aromatic smoke, such as:

H AR D W O O D C H IP S / HERB S TE M S / G R A P E V IN E T R IM M IN G S

c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S 659
 1. place the prepared vegetable
d ire c tly on th e h o t g rill or b ro ile r rods. V egetables can
be seasoned w ith a m arinade p rio r to g rillin g or broiling.
A llo w excess m arinade to drain fro m vegetables b e fo re
coo kin g to p re ve n t fla re -u p s . If veg etab le s are not m a ri­
nated p rio r to cooking, season the m du rin g cooking by
brushing on a lig h t co a t o f glaze o r m arinade.
S a lt and p e pp er w ill n o t adhere w ell to all raw veg­
etables, b u t w ill to a ve g e ta b le th a t is h o t fro m th e g rill
o r bro ile r. If th e veg etab le s m ig h t s tic k easily to th e rods
o r fa ll throu gh , se t the m on a sizzle r p la tte r or in a hinged
hand g rill.
G rill o r b ro il th e veg etab le s, tu rn in g as necessary,
u n til p ro p e rly cooked. Use a spatula or ton gs to tu rn over
g rille d veg etab le s a fte r th e f ir s t side has been m arked or
brow ned. To cre a te crossh atch m arks, give th e veg etab le s
a 9 0 -d e g re e tu rn a fte r th e g rill rods have made an im p rin t;
allow the rods to im p rin t again. C om plete th e cooking
tim e on th e second side to produce a w e ll-b row n ed e x te ­
rior.
V egetables may be g rille d only enough to m ark and
fla v o r the m b e fo re th e y are used in a n o th e r dish. Thick
cuts o f h ig h -sta rch veg etab le s can be m arked on a g rill or
b ro ile r and fin is h e d in th e oven if necessary.

660 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 roasting and baking
V e g e t a b l e s c a n be r o a s t e d o r b a k e d w h o l e o r m a y be c u t to p r o d u c e a b r o w n e d e x t e r i o r .

V egetables are ro a sted for m a n y d if f e r e n t r e a s o n s . Thic k-s k in n ed v e g e ta b le s suc h as

w in t e r s q u a s h e s or e g g pl a n t can be r o a sted to m a k e a r ic hly f la v o r ed p u r e e . M irepo ix

A N D O T HE R A R O M A T I C V E G E T A B L E S ARE R O A S TE D TO AD D AN E X T R A D I M E N S I O N OF F L A V O R A N D COLOR

T O S T O C K S , S A U C E S , A N D O T H E R D I S H E S . T O M A T O E S O R P E P P E R S C A N BE R O A S T E D T O I N T E N S I F Y T H E I R

FLAVOR AND GIV E TH E M A DRIER TEX TU RE.

roasting and
baking
T hick-skinne d w hole vegetables, such as some ro o t vegetables, w in te r squash, and egg­
plant, are w ell su ite d to ro a stin g or baking. The skins p ro te c t th e in te rio r fro m drying or
scorching. R oasting is also exce lle nt f o r halved, cut, sliced, o r diced vegetables, as w ell as
veg etab le s th a t m ig h t o th e rw ise be d iffic u lt to peel, such as peppers. Rinse, peel, trim ,
and cu t the vegetable, as necessary. To assure even cooking, cut veg etab le s in to un iform
pieces. Toss th e vegetables w ith oil to p ro m o te bro w n ing and pre ve n t excessive d ryin g and
scorching.
M arinades can enhance fla v o r and give extra p ro te c tio n to veg etab le s as th e y cook in
th e d ry heat. Add seasonings o r a ro m a tics such as salt, pepper, spice blends, or garlic.
Have ready fin is h in g in g re d ie n ts (chopped herbs, plain o r fla v o re d oils, w hole or com ­
pound b u tte r, reduced heavy cream, or a sauce) as desired or acco rding to the p a rtic u ­
lar recipe. Have available ro a s tin g pans or she et pans th a t can hold th e vegetables w ith
enough room fo r air to c ircu la te fre e ly , b u t n o t so much th a t ju ices fro m the fo o d are likely
to scorch. Some vegetables can be se t on ro a stin g racks. For baked dishes, use ho tel pans
o r s im ila r baking pans or dishes.

c h a p te r 22 » C O O KING V E G E T A B L E S 661
 basic formula

Roasted or Baked Oil, marinade, or glaze (optional)

Vegetables
(10 servings) Salt, pepper, and other seasonings

3 lb 8 oz/1.59 kg prepped Sauce and finishing or

vegetables (weighed after garnishing ingredients
trimming, peeling, and cutting)

m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
1. Place the vegetable in a hot ex p ert tips f l
or medium oven.

2. Roast it to the desired

doneness.
Fats or other liquids can be added to the vegetable prior to cook­
ing to infuse flavor:
3. Serve, hold, or use it in a
IN FU S E D O ILS / M A R IN A D E S / G LAZES
secondary technique.

Additional ingredients can be added to develop more flavor:

A R O M A T IC VEG ETAB LES / FRESH HERBS / SPIC E S / GARLIC

662 VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 roasting and baking
1. prepare the vegetables f o r ro a s tin g
as a p p ro p ria te by ty p e or in te n d e d use, and arrange them
cu t sides down in a p re he ated baking o r ro a s tin g pan.
Cut or sliced ve g e ta b le s may be seasoned w ith salt, pe p ­
per, spices, oils, ju ices, o r m arinades. Add some liq u id to
th e pan to stea m dense ve g e ta b le s and to p re ve n t them
fro m becom ing o ve rly brow n or scorch in g as th e y roast.
S et ve g e ta b le s on racks over th e liquid, or d ire c tly in the
liquid, as p re fe rre d . Ideally, th e liquid should all evaporate
to w a rd the end o f th e coo kin g process to achieve q u a lity
fa c to rs c o n s is te n t w ith ro a ste d item s.

2. place the prepared vegetable

in a m edium to h o t oven and ro a s t to th e de sire d done­
ness. Serve im m e d ia te ly, hold fo r la te r use, o r use as an
in g re d ie n t in an o th e r dish.
The lo ng er th e ro a s tin g tim e (a fa c to r d e te rm in e d
by th e ty p e o f veg etab le , size and th ickn e ss, d ia m e te r
o f th e cut, and its de nsity), th e lo w er th e te m p e ra tu re o f
th e oven should be. V egetables m ay be ro a ste d on sheet
pans or in ro a s tin g pans or, in some cases, d ire c tly on the
oven rack to allow th e h o t a ir to circ u la te readily. G ener­
ally, ro a ste d ve g e ta b le s are p ro p e rly done when th e y can
be pierced easily w ith th e tip o f a k n ife o r a kitch e n fo rk .
Vegetables should be ro ta te d as th e y ro a s t to p ro m o te
even cooking, because m o st ovens have h o t spots. The
place m ent o f o th e r ite m s in th e oven could also cause un­
even cooking. S tir o r tu rn th e ve g e ta b le s to keep th o se on
th e edge o f th e sh e e t pan fro m scorching. If th e pan was
covered, rem ove th e cover o r f o il du rin g the fin a l stage o f
coo kin g to develop a rich, ro a ste d fla v o r and color.
Roasted ve g e ta b le s are b e st served im m e d ia te ly on
heated p la te s w ith fin is h in g in g re d ie n ts as desired. If the
veg etab le s m u st be held, keep the m uncovered in a w arm
s p o t f o r th e s h o rte s t po ssib le tim e.

c h a p te r 22 » C O O KING V E G E T A B L E S 663
PUREEING
Vegetables are often boiled, steamed, or
baked until they are soft enough to make
into a puree. Some are naturally soft or
moist enough, even when uncooked,
to make into a puree. The puree can be
served as is or may be used as a base for
such dishes as vegetable timbales, custards,
croquettes, or souffles. It may also be used
as an ingredient in other dishes or to flavor
or color a sauce or soup.
Vegetables can range in texture from
coarse to very smooth. If necessary or de­
sired, cook the vegetables until the flesh
is soft enough to mash easily. Cooked veg­
etables should be pureed while still very
hot. Use a clean side towel to protect your
hands as you work.
Once the vegetable is roasted, clean it
by cutting away all heavy or inedible peel,
rind, stems, and roots. Scoop or squeeze
out seeds, if necessary. When cleaning,
remove as little edible flesh as possible.
Break or cut the vegetable into pieces sized
properly for the pureeing equipment.
Select the equipment to make the
puree according to the way it will be used.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
A food mill, ricer, or sieve will remove
fibers, skin, and seeds. These tools produce
purees with a rather rough texture. Food
processors can make quite smooth purees
from cooked or raw vegetables that have
already been trimmed, peeled, and seeded.
Avoid pureeing starchy vegetables in a food
processor or blender, as they may develop
a gluey texture. If the vegetable is fibrous,
the processor won’t necessarily remove the
strings, so the puree will need to be pushed
through a sieve. Immersion or countertop
blenders and vertical chopping machines
can cut vegetables fine enough to produce
a very smooth puree, though they, too, do
not remove fibers and strings from some
vegetables.
A vegetable puree can be finished by
adjusting its seasoning, adding cream or
butter, or blending it into other prepara­
tions. Or it may be cooled and stored for
later use. Cool hot purees over an ice bath
before storing. Reheat cooled purees over
gentle heat or in a bain-marie until the
food has reached a food-safe temperature.
 S auteing and its r elated t e c h n iq u e , stir -f r y in g , m a y be used as the pr im a ry cooking

TECHNIQUES FOR VEG ET A B LES AS W E L L AS A LA MINUTE FINISHING TECHNIQUES. BOILED, STEAMED,

O R P A N - S T E A M E D V E G E T A B L E S M A Y B E T O S S E D O R R O L L E D IN B U T T E R O V E R H I G H H E A T A S A F I N I S H I N G

S T E P , O R T H E Y M A Y B E C O O K E D IN A S M A L L A M O U N T O F A F L A V O R F U L L I Q U I D , S A U C E , O R C R E A M .

S a u teed v e g e t a b le s have a distinct fla v o r , prim arily d epen d en t upo n the v e g e t a b l e , but

A L S O I N F L U E N C E D B Y T H E C O O K I N G F A T T H A T IS C H O S E N A S W E L L A S A N Y A D D I T I O N A L F I N I S H I N G O R

GARNISHI NG INGREDIENTS.

sauteing
G lazing is an o th e r fin is h in g tech niq ue based upon th e sau tein g m ethod. Add a sm all
am ount o f b u tte r and honey, sugar, o r m aple syrup to th e veg etab le as it reheats. The sug­
ars liq u e fy and may caram elize, co a tin g the veg etab le evenly to give it some flavo r, sheen,
and a golden color.
Rinse, trim , and peel the raw veg etab le and cu t it in to the desired shape. Arugula, s p in ­
ach and o th e r le a fy greens, m ushroom s, sum m er squashes, and onions may be sauteed or
s tir -frie d fro m th e raw sta te . T horoughly drain greens and o th e r veg etab le s th a t can hold
excess m o istu re . This im p o rta n t s te p assures th e b e st flavo r, te x tu re , and co lo r in th e f in ­
ished dish.
Some veg etab le s w ill not cook c o m p le te ly when sauteed unless th e y are parcooked by
a separate m ethod fir s t. In th is case, ju s t fin is h th e veg etab le s by the sau tein g m ethod. If
necessary, p a rtia lly o r w h olly cook th e veg etab le by boiling, steam ing, o r ro a stin g it firs t.
S e le ct a cooking f a t to com p le m e nt th e fla v o r o f th e v egetable. Oils such as olive, pea­
nut, canola, corn, or s a fflo w e r can be used, as w ell as w hole o r c la rifie d b u tte r o r rendered
anim al fa t (lard, duck fa t, o r bacon). O ptio nal seasonings and a ro m a tics (salt, pepper, and
lem on ju ice ) can ad ju st o r heighten th e fla vo r. Finely mince o r chop fre s h herbs and add
the m a t th e la st m om ent.
Take th e q u a n tity o f fo o d to be sauteed in to account when se le ctin g th e pan. It needs
to be large enough to avoid overcrow ding; if to o much is p u t in th e pan, th e te m p e ra tu re
w ill drop to o quickly. On th e o th e r hand, to avoid scorching, th e pan m ust n o t be to o large.
C ertain m a te ria ls are b e tte r a t c on du cting heat w ith quick re a ctio n to changes in te m p e ra ­
tu re ; o th e rs o ffe r a m ore co n sta n t heat and do n o t re a ct as quickly. There are b e n e fits to
b o th typ e s o f pan, and you w ill learn qu ickly which pan w o rks b e st in w hich s itu a tio n and
w ith which fo o d . Use o ffs e t spatulas, tongs, o r s tir-fr y in g to o ls to tu rn and l i f t vegetables
as th e y saute.

Chapter 22 » C O O KING V E G E T A B L E S
 b asic fo rm u la for sau tein g v egetables

Sauteed Vegetables
(10 servings)
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped vegetables
(weighed after trimming, peeling,
cutting, and blanching or parcooking;
however, leafy green vegetables lose
about half their weight in moisture Salt, pepper, and other seasonings
during sauteing, so begin with 4
lb/1.81 kg to prepare 10 servings) Sauce and finishing or
garnishing ingredients
Small amount of oil or
other cooking fat

m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
Heat the pan; heat the When vegetables are fu lly or partially cooked by
cooking medium in it. steaming, broiling, or roasting, they can be sauteed just long enough to reheat
them or complete cooking them—a technique known as finishing.
2 . Add the vegetable.
Whole butter is a common choice for finishing vegetables, but other flavorful
3. Saute the vegetable,
cooking fats can be used to give a specific flavor to the dish:
keeping it in motion.
E X T R A -V IR G IN O L IV E O IL / IN FU S E D O ILS / R END ER ED BACON OR DUCK FAT
4. Add the aromatics,
seasonings, or glaze and
heat thoroughly. Vegetables can also be cooked inasmaii amount of liquid
using the technique known as sweating, which is similar to sauteing but with
Serve the vegetable
just enough liquid to coat the vegetables, such as:
immediately.
H E A V Y C REA M / STOCK / BROTH / SAUCE

I f d e s i r e d , glazes can be sweetened to heighten the flavor or combat

bitterness in the vegetable:

S U G A R /H O N E Y /S Y R U P

Additional ingredients or garnishes may be added to

increase flavor. These ingredients may be added once the cooking medium is
heated through or at the end of cooking, depending on the desired result.

G A R LIC / FRESH HERBS / GRATED GING ER

Heat the cooking fat, cream, or sauce over medium heat. Add the
prepared vegetables to the pan without crowding and stir, toss, or turn them
until they are very hot and evenly coated. Taste them for proper doneness and
seasoning, and serve at once.

For a healthier option: Use healthier fats, such as olive oil, to

saute the vegetables.

666 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 C/3
P

1. add the prepared vegetables to

c
r+
th e fa t and sw eated a ro m a tics in th e pan. Use only enough o>>
i—•«
oil o r f a t to keep th e pan lu b ric a te d and p re ve n t th e vege­
ta b le fro m burning. The coo kin g m edium should be h o t b u t
2
O rq
no t hazy o r sm oking. V egetables re q u ire less intense heat
than m eat, p o u ltry , and fish . Some ve g e ta b le sautes begin
by coo kin g a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts in th e o il to add fla v o r to
th e fin is h e d dish.
If m ore than one ty p e o f ve g e ta b le is being cooked,
add th e ve g e ta b le s in sequence, s ta rtin g w ith th o se th a t
req uire th e lo n g e st co o kin g tim e and ending w ith tho se
th a t re q u ire th e least.
Do n o t ove rcrow d th e pan. For m o st v eg etab le s, add
only enough to make a re la tiv e ly th in layer in the pan.
L e a fy greens can be m ounded lo ose ly in th e pan, as the y
lose volum e q u ickly w h ile sauteing.
Add seasonings and con tinu e to saute u n til th e veg­
e ta b le s are fu lly cooked and fla v o rfu l. A dd in g s a lt to o
e a rly in th e process can p re m a tu re ly draw o u t m o istu re
fro m th e ve g e ta b le s and in h ib it th e saute process. Some
veg etab le s m u st be k e p t in ne arly co n s ta n t m o tio n as
the y saute; o th e rs develop a b e tte r fla v o r and co lo r when
tu rn e d only once o r tw ice . Use o ffs e t spatulas, ton gs, or
s tir- fr y in g to o ls to tu rn and l i f t veg etab le s as th e y saute.

2. as vegetables saute, th e y w ilt or

s o fte n and th e ir c o lo r in te n s ifie s . Each com p on ent o f a
sauteed ve g e ta b le dish should be cooked u n til done, very
hot, and w e ll seasoned. Be sure to check th e te m p e ra tu re
and seasoning o f ve g e ta b le s th a t are held fo r service in a
stea m ta b le o r o th e r h o ld ing device. See page 6 7 0 f o r a d ­
d itio n a l in fo rm a tio n on fin is h in g veg etab le s by sauteing.

ch a p te r 22 » C O O KING V E G E T A B L E S 667
 b asic fo rm u la for stir-fryin g v egetables

Stir-Fried Vegetables smaii amount of oil or Sauce or ingredients to

(10 portions) other cooking fat make sauce (optional)

2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped ga|t pepper anc| other seasonings

vegetables (weighed after
trimming, peeling, and cutting)

m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
j. Heat the pan; heat the Additional ingredients can be added to develop more flavor:
cooking medium in it.
A R O M A T IC VEG E TAB LE S / FRESH HERBS / S P IC E S / GARLIC

2. Add aromatics. Add the

vegetable.
Liquids or sauces can be used to finish the stir-fried vegetables
3. S tir-fry the vegetable, and to develop more flavor:
keeping it in motion. Move
BROTH / G L A ZE S / PREPARED SAUCES
the f ir s t vegetable up the
side o f the wok before
adding more vegetables.

4. Add the aromatics,

seasonings, or glaze and
heat thoroughly.

5. Serve the vegetable

immediately.

668 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

1. heat the wok b e fo re adding th e o il by la­
d ling it around th e up pe r edge o f th e pan. Once th e o il in
th e b o tto m o f th e pan is hot, add th e a ro m a tics to release
th e ir fla v o rs . To s t ir - f r y a c o m b in a tio n o f v eg etab le s, add
th e cu t v eg etab le s in sequence, s ta rtin g w ith th e veg­
e ta b le s th a t ta k e th e lo n g e st to cook, such as c a rro ts and
b ro ccoli. Keep th e ve g e ta b le s in c o n s ta n t m otion.

2. as the vegetables become hot,

push the m up o n to th e sides o f th e wok. This allow s the
w ok to recover its heat b e fo re you make th e next a d d itio n
o f vegetables. Continue adding the veg etab le s to the cen­
te r o f the w ok and con tinu e to s tir - fr y u n til each ad d itio n
is very hot. A dd veg etab le s like zucchini and y e llo w squash
a t th e m id p o in t o f coo kin g tim e and ve ry te n d e r in g re d i­
ents like green onions o r fre s h herbs a t th e la s t m om ent.

c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S 669
 3. a properly prepared veg etab le s tir-
fr y has a co m b in a tio n o f fla v o rs , te x tu re s , and colors.
Some ve g e ta b le s m ay becom e ve ry te n d e r (eggplant or
zucchini, f o r instance), w h ile o th e rs should have an a lm o st
crisp te x tu re . A v a rie ty o f seasonings and fla v o rin g s can
be added to th e fin is h e d s tir-fr y . Serve veg etab le s tir-
frie s very hot, d ire c tly fro m th e wok.

FINISHING AND GLAZING VEGETABLES BY SAUTEING

When vegetables are fully or partially cooked by
steaming, boiling, or roasting, they can be sauteed
just long enough to reheat them or to complete
cooking them—a technique known as finishing.
Whole butter is a common choice for finishing
vegetables, but other flavorful cooking fats, such
as extra-virgin olive oil, infused oils, or rendered
bacon, are also used to give a specific flavor to the
dish. Vegetables may also be finished in a small
amount of heavy cream or a sauce, usually just
enough to cling to the vegetables.
Heat the cooking fat, cream, or sauce over me­
dium to medium-high heat. Add a small amount
of sugar, honey, or other syrup to produce a sweet
glaze, if desired. Garnishes may be added now or
after the vegetables are heated through.
Add the prepared vegetables to the pan with­
out crowding and stir, toss, or turn them until they
are very hot and evenly coated. Taste them for
proper doneness and seasoning, and serve at once.

670 VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 id
p

Pa n - f r ie d v e g e t a b l e s h a v e a s a t is f y in g , c r is p e x t e r io r t h a t p r o v id e s a p l e a s in g c o n t r a s t

to th e m o is t , f l a v o r f u l in t e r io r . Pa n f r y in g is s im il a r to s a u t e in g ; t h e m a in d if f e r e n c e s M -j
A R E T H A T IN P A N F R Y I N G , T H E A M O U N T O F O I L U S E D A S A C O O K I N G M E D I U M IS G R E A T E R T H A N F O R

S A U T E I N G A N D T H E C O O K I N G T E M P E R A T U R E IS G E N E R A L L Y L O W E R . A L S O , A N Y S A U C E S E R V E D W I T H I—*•
P A N - F R I E D V E G E T A B L E S IS M A D E S E P A R A T E L Y . T h e V E G E T A B L E S M A Y BE B R E A D E D O R C O A T E D W I T H P
FLO U R OR A BATTER. QTQ

pan frying
Rinse, peel, trim , and cut th e vegetable. W holly o r p a rtia lly cook th e vegetable, if neces­
sary. Bread it w ith a stan dard breading, o r c o a t it w ith flo u r o r b a tte r.
C la rifie d b u tte r, m o st veg etab le oils, shortening, and rendered anim al fa t (duck fa t or
lard) can all be used fo r pan fryin g . The cooking fa t should com e ab o u t ha lfw a y up th e veg­
eta ble s in th e pan.
A ro m a tics and seasonings may be added to th e veg etab le b e fo re o r a fte r cooking, or
the y may be included in the breading or b a tte r, if a p p ro p ria te . In a d d itio n , a recipe may call
fo r fin is h in g in g re d ie n ts such as a com pound b u tte r, sauce, relish, o r salsa.
The pan m ust be large enough to avoid overcrow ding. If th e pan is crow ded, the o il te m ­
p e ra tu re w ill drop quickly, m o istu re w ill accum ulate, and a good seal w ill n o t fo rm . If th is
happens, th e veg etab le may absorb th e o il and th e breading can becom e soggy or even fa ll
aw ay in places. Use tongs, a skim m er, o r a sp id e r to rem ove th e veg etab le s fro m th e pan.
Have a pan o r p la tte r lined w ith paper to w e ls to b lo t excess f a t fro m th e veg etab le s b e fore
service.

chapter 22 » C O O K I N G V E G E T A B L E S 671
Q basic formula

Pan-Fried Vegetables Coating ingredients such as flour, Sauce and finishing or

(10 portions) cornmeal, egg wash, standard garnishing ingredients
breading, or batter (optional)
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped
vegetables (weighed after Oil or other cooking fat
trimming, peeling, and cutting),
raw, blanched, parcooked, or Salt, pepper, and other seasonings
fully cooked, as necessary

m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
1. Heat th e cooking medium. ex p ert tips f l
2. Add th e vegetable.

3. Cook until its e x te rio r is Depending on the desired result, different crusts canbe
ligh tly browned and crisp. achieved with different coatings. These coatings include:

4. Blot on paper towels. BATTERS / BREAD C R U M B S / C O R N M E A L / FLOUR

5. Season and serve

immediately. To develop additional flavor, season the vegetables prior
to pan frying. These seasoning ingredients can also be added to the coating or
batter that will be used to cover the vegetable:

FRESH HERBS / D R IED SPIC ES

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
1. heat the cooking fat inaheavy-
gauge saute pan, rondeau, o r brasier. Pan fry in g req uire s
m edium to high heat. When th e coo kin g fa t appears hazy
or shim m ering, it is h o t enough. M o n ito r th e heat o f the I—*•
fa t to keep it even th ro u g h o u t coo kin g tim e . The s h o rte r
th e necessary co o kin g tim e , th e higher th e heat may be. CTQ
For rapid coo kin g and f o r th e b e st color, avoid crow ding
th e veg etab le s in th e pan. Add th e veg etab le s gradually;
to o many veg etab le s added a t once w ill low er th e cooking
te m p e ra tu re . O vercrow din g also causes th e co a tin g to
pull away fro m th e veg etab le .
Cook th e ve g e ta b le s over m edium to high heat u n til
th e f ir s t side becom es lig h tly brow ned and crisp. Turn
the m and co m p le te coo kin g on th e second side. Remove
the ve g e ta b le s and b lo t th e m b rie fly on paper to w e ls to
absorb any excess fa t. Season w ith s a lt and p e pp er away
fro m th e coo kin g fa t, to help th e f a t la s t th ro u g h succes­
sive batches. S kim away any b its o f co a tin g fro m th e fa t
b e fo re adding th e n e xt batch. P a n -frie d veg etab le s m ust
be served rig h t away.
P ro p e rly p a n -frie d veg etab le s have a golden or brown,
crisp e xte rio r, w ith th e in te rio r te n d e r to th e b ite and very
hot. Any co a tin g is crisp and light.

chapter 22 » CO O K I N G V E G E T A B L E S 673
 P erfec tly fried v e g e t a b le s a re light and s a v o r y , and o ffer the chef a r an g e of t ex t u r es

AND FLAVORS TO SHOWCASE IN A P P E T I Z E R S , SIDE DISHES, GARNISHES, ACCOMPANIMENTS, AND

ENTREES. W hen V E G E T A B L E S A R E D E E P FRI ED, T H E R E S U L T S C A N R A N G E F R O M CRISP, F R A G I L E CHI PS

TO H E A R T Y C R O Q U E T T E S . T E M P U R A - S T Y L E D E E P F R Y I N G P A I R S F R E S H V E G E T A B L E S W I T H A L I G H T

BATTER. ( F O R F R E N C H - F R I E D POTATOES, S E E PAGE 74 7.)

deep frying
Choose fre s h and fla v o rfu l vegetables and prepare them f o r fry in g according to th e rec­
ipe's req uire m en ts o r th e intended style o f service. A ll vegetables m ust be tho ro ug hly
rinsed, and in some cases scrubbed. Trim away tough o r inedible skins, peels, cores, seeds,
and roo ts. Cut o r slice as required. C ertain vegetables should be parcooked b e fo re frying .
For veg etab le f r it te r s or cro q u e tte s, dice, mince, or puree veg etab le s and use an ap­
p ro p ria te bind er to hold the m to g e th e r in a b a tte r. O ptio ns include heavy becham el o r ve­
loute, heavy cream, fre s h cheeses, eggs, and bread crum bs. Some frie d v eg etab le pre pa ra­
tio n s call f o r a sta n d a rd breading (see page 3 6 5 ) or b a tte r. The b a tte r should be applied
ju s t b e fo re th e v eg etab le is frie d .
Choose oils and o th e r cooking fa ts f o r fry in g th a t can reach a high te m p e ra tu re w ith ­
o u t sm oking or breaking down. V egetable oils, including corn, canola, and s a fflo w e r, have
n e utral fla v o rs and high sm oke points. Special oils may be used f o r a sp e c ific flavo r. Olive
oil or rendered duck or goose fa t may be ap p ro p ria te .
Use e ith e r a fry in g k e ttle or deep fryer. E le ctric or gas deep fry e rs m aintain an even
te m p e ra tu re th ro u g h o u t cooking tim e and are e ffic ie n t fo r menus th a t produce large quan­
titie s o f frie d vegetables and o th e r frie d dishes. Use baskets to low er some frie d item s
in to the o il and to rem ove the m once cooked. For o th e r frie d foo ds, use ton gs to add the
vegetables to th e fry in g fa t and a spide r o r skim m e r to rem ove them . This is known as the
sw im m ing m ethod. Prepare a pan lined w ith paper to w e ls to b lo t frie d fo o d s im m e d ia te ly
a fte r th e y c om p le te cooking.

674 VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 Q -
(D
(D
T3
i-i
Deep-Fried Coating ingredients, such Salt, pepper, and other seasonings
Vegetables as flour, egg wash, standard i—*<
(10 servings) breading, or batter (optional) Sauce and finishing or P

2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped
garnishing ingredients GTQ
Enough oil or other cooking fat to
vegetables (weighed after completely submerge the vegetable
trimming, peeling, and cutting),
raw, blanched, parcooked, or
fully cooked, as necessary

m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
Coat the vegetable with ex p ert tips
breading or batter.

2. Heat the oil in a deep fry e r

Depending on the desired result, different crustscanbe
and add the vegetable.
achieved with different coatings. These coatings include:
3. Fry the vegetable until
B ATTERS / BREAD C R U M B S / FLOUR
evenly browned or golden.

4. Remove it from the oil and

blo t on paper towels.
5. Season the vegetables and
serve immediately.
To develop additional flavor, season the vegetable prior to
deep frying. These seasoning ingredients can also be added to the coating or
batter that will be used to cover the vegetable:
FRESH HERBS / D RIED SPIC E S

c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S 675
 1. heat the oil in a deep fryer or
k e ttle . The b e st te m p e ra tu re f o r deep fry in g m o st veg­
eta b le s is ab ou t 3 5 0 °F /1 7 7 °C . Low er breaded vegetables
in to th e oil using a basket. Be sure to leave room betw een
la rg e r pieces to p re ve n t the m fro m s tic k in g to each other,
and do n o t ove rcrow d th e basket. B a tte r-c o a te d veg­
e ta b le s should be dipp ed in to th e b a tte r (in some cases,
th e y should be d u sted w ith flo u r b e fo re th e y are coa ted in
b a tte r) using to n g s o r a spider, the n im m e d ia te ly lowered
in to th e h o t oil.
A dd in g th e vegetables w ill low er the te m p e ra tu re o f
th e oil fo r a tim e (th is is known as recovery time), so adjust
th e size o f the batches added to sho rte n recovery tim e.

2. fry the vegetables u n til fu lly cooked.

Remove and drain. Season if necessary. F rying tim e s vary
a cco rding to th e ty p e o f veg etab le . The veg etab le (or
ve g e ta b le m ixtu re , in th e case o f c ro q u e tte s and fr itte r s )
should be fu lly cooked, tender, and hot. The coating, i f any,
should be golden to brown. However, p ro p e rly frie d te m -
pura veg etab le s should be w h ite to lig h t golden and have
a crisp te x tu re on th e outside.
V egetables coa ted in bre ad ing and prepared by the
ba sket m ethod ty p ic a lly sta y subm erged u n til th e y are
fu lly cooked, when th e y rise to th e o il’s surface. Use the
ba sket to l i f t th e m fro m th e oil. Hold th e ba sket over the
fr y e r b rie fly to allow th e oil to drain back in to th e k e ttle .
B a tte r-c o a te d veg etab le s frie d using th e sw im m ing
m etho d may be tu rn e d as th e y f r y to cook and brown them
evenly. Use ton gs, a spider, o r s im ila r to o ls to tu rn the
v eg etab le s and l i f t the m fro m th e oil when fu lly cooked.
T ransfe r frie d veg etab le s to a pan lined w ith paper
to w e ls to b lo t the m . Season the m w ith salt, pepper, or
spice blends a t th is p o in t. Seasoning should never be done
d ire c tly over the fry e r, since th e se seasonings could has­
te n the breakdow n o f th e fry in g oil. Fried veg etab le s are
a t th e ir peak o f q u a lity now, and should be served rig h t
away. If necessary, th e y may be held fo r up to 15 m inutes
in a w arm place (such as under a heat lamp).
In general, th e th in n e r th e c u t used f o r th e vegetable,
th e c ris p e r th e fin is h e d dish w ill be. The e x te rio r o f the
ve g e ta b le should be golden o r brow n in color, th e fla v o r
fre s h and appealing. The coating, i f any was used, should
be an even th ickn e ss and n o t excessive in re la tio n to the
ve g e ta b le p o rtio n . The vegetable, as w e ll as any coatings,
should be p ro p e rly seasoned and e x tre m e ly hot.

676 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATO ES, G R A IN S A N D LE G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L IN G S

 stewing and braising
V eg etab le s t ew s an d b raises includ e such delicate dishes a s petits pois a la fran ch ise

(Fr en ch -s t y l e p e a s ) a n d , on the other end of the s p e c t r u m , su ch st u r d y a n d ro bu st dishes

A S R A T A T O U I L L E A N D B R A I S E D C A B B A G E . S T E W E D O R B R A I S E D V E G E T A B L E S L I T E R A L L Y C O O K IN T H E I R

O W N J U I C E S . T h e V E G E T A B L E S IN a S T E W A R E C U S T O M A R I L Y C U T I N T O S M A L L P I E C E S , W H I L E T H O S E IN

A B R A I S E A R E IN L A R G E P I E C E S O R L E F T W H O L E . O C C A S I O N A L L Y , B E U R R E M A N I E O R A S T A R C H S L U R R Y

IS A D D E D T O T H E J U I C E S T O G I V E T H E D I S H M O R E S U B S T A N C E A N D T O I M P R O V E I TS A P P E A R A N C E . T h e

T H I C K E N E D S A U C E L IG HT LY COATS TH E V E G E T A B L E , PROVIDING AN A T T R AC TI V E S H EE N . V E G E T A B L E

S T E W S A N D B R A I S E S H A V E DEEP, C O N C E N T R A T E D F LA V O RS . S T E W S A N D B R A I S E S S H O U L D BE FORK

T E N D E R OR, IN S O M E C A S E S , M E L T I N G L Y S O F T .

stewing and
braising
V egetable stew s and braises may be com posed o f one main in g re d ie n t or a com bination
o f vegetables. Braised fennel, fo r example, contains a single main in gre die nt; ra ta to u ille is
a ste w th a t m elds several d iffe re n t vegetables. Braises and stew s ge ne rally include some
a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts such as sh a llo ts or m irepoix.
Prepare the veg etab le s according to th e ir typ e and the desired resu lt. Rinse, peel, trim ,
and cu t th e vegetables, as necessary. Blanch the m to rem ove b itte rn e s s o r to aid in rem ov­
ing peels.
The fa t chosen should have a good fla v o r— one th a t is a p p ro p ria te to the dish. Veg­
eta ble s th a t do not release a s ig n ific a n t am ount o f liquid as th e y cook may need a d d itio n a l
liquid such as stock, wine, fu m e t, juice, or w ater.
Prepare and use seasonings and aro m atics such as s a lt and pepper, shallots, garlic,
m inced herbs, spices, m ire poix, or m atignon. Some braised and stew ed veg etab le dishes
include a po rk p ro d u c t (salt pork, bacon, or ham) or an acid (vinegar, c itru s ze st or juice, or
wine) to develop a com plex flavo r.
Some recipes call fo r an added th icke n e r such as a slu rry o f a rro w ro o t, cornstarch, po ­
ta to starch, or a beurre manie. Various fin is h in g in gre die nts, such as reduced heavy cream,
a cream sauce, b u tte r, or a liaison may be added to give a v eg etab le s te w a rich flavo r, some
sheen, and a sm oo th te x tu re . A veg etab le stew or braise may also be garnished w ith bread
crum bs and cheese to cre a te a gratin.
The main piece o f eq uipm en t needed is a b ra sie r or rondeau o r o th e r deep, wide, heavy-
b o tto m e d cooking vessel w ith a lid. Use a skim m e r o r s lo tte d spoon to rem ove p ro p e rly
braised or stew ed veg etab le s fro m the p o t b e fo re fin is h in g the sauce.
Use a s tra in e r or im m ersion b le n d e rto fin is h th e sauce.

c h a p te r 22 » C O O KIN G V E G E T A B LE S 677
D basic formula

Stewed or Braised Aromatic vegetables, Small amount of cooking fat

Vegetables seasonings, herbs, and spices
(10 portions) Finishing and garnishing ingredients
Flavorful cooking liquid
3 lb to 3 lb 8 oz/1.35 to 1.59 kg
prepped vegetables (weighed after
trimming, peeling, and cutting)

m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
Heat the oil or stock.

Smother the vegetable and ex p ert tips f l

seasonings or aromatics.

3. Add the liquid, bring it to To develop additional flavor, choose flavorfulliquids to add
a simmer, and cook the to the stew or braise:
vegetable.
STOCK / BROTH
Add the remaining
vegetables and aromatics.
Additional ingredients may be added to develop more flavor.
5. Cook the stew or braise Add some early in the cooking process to infuse flavor. Add others later so
until the vegetables are that they retain their individual flavor and/or texture.
tender.
S A C H ET D ’EPIC ES / B O U Q U ET G A R NI / GARLIC
Adjust the seasoning and
finish the dish according to
the recipe.
To prepare a sauce from the cooking liquid, remove the vegetables
from the cooking liquid and thicken it in one of the following ways:
7. Serve the vegetable or
hold it. » Reduce the liquid to a sauce-like flavor and consistency.

» Puree some of the arom atic vegetables and return the puree to the
cooking liquid.

» Add a bit of beurre manie or starch slurry to the cooking liquid.

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
 stewing and braising
1. cook the aromatic vegetables
in a coo kin g fa t, beginning w ith m em bers o f th e onion
fa m ily, to develop a sm ooth, sw e et ta s te in th e dish. Cook
a ro m a tic veg etab le s in a lig h t-c o lo re d ste w or braise ju s t
u n til th e y s ta r t to becom e te n d e r and release some o f
th e ir n a tural ju ices. A d d in g s a lt a t th e beginning o f the
coo kin g process w ill help acce le rate m o istu re release
fro m th e veg etab le s. For o th e r dishes, cook th e a ro m a t­
ics to th e de sire d stage o f brow nness, ranging fro m lig h t
gold to deep brown. Use enough o il to p ro p e rly cook the
a ro m a tics w ith o u t scorch in g them , and s tir as needed to
develop th e ir fla v o r and color.

m eth o d in detail
2. add the remaining ingredients
in order, fro m le a st to m o s t ten der, s tirrin g as necessary
and a d ju s tin g th e seasoning and co n siste n cy o f th e dish
as it braises or stew s. Cook ve g e ta b le stew s over g e n tle
heat w ith th e lid on to encourage the m to release th e ir
fla v o r and to ca p tu re it in th e coo kin g liquid. Braises may
be cooked over d ire c t heat or in th e oven. If th e cooking
liquid cooks aw ay to o quickly, add m ore and low er the
heat s lig h tly . If th e liq u id does n o t reduce p ro p e rly du rin g
cooking, rem ove th e lid to encourage n a tural red uctio n.
S tew or braise th e ve g e ta b le s u n til th e y are fla v o rfu l,
fu lly cooked, and fo rk -te n d e r. The ste w or braise is
ready to serve now, b u t may be fin is h e d by p re p a rin g a
sauce fro m th e co o kin g liquid.
Serve as is on h o t plates, or fin is h th e veg etab le s w ith
a g ra tin to p p in g and brow n under a salam ander or bro ile r.
S tew ed and braised ve g e ta b le s can be held fo r a longer
tim e than o th e r v e g e ta b le s w ith o u t losing s ig n ific a n t
q u a lity. Hold them , lo o se ly covered, in a stea m ta b le . They
also may be cooled and re frig e ra te d , then reh ea te d as
needed.

c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G VE G E T A B L E S 679
 general guidelines for vegetables
Each vegetable cooking technique produces spe cific and cha racteristic results and a ffe cts
the flavor, te xtu re , and n u tritive value o f each vegetable in d iffe re n t ways. The chef can take
advantage o f the fu ll range o f p o ssib ilities w ith in a m ethod to produce vegetable dishes ta i­
lored to the op era tion’s needs. Kitchens th a t rely on regional and seasonal produce can adapt
a technique both to su it an ingredient's specific needs and to achieve an e ffe c t. For example,
though acorn squash is o fte n roasted or pureed, it can also be ge n tly stewed in cream or grilled
and served w ith a salsa. Cucumbers, m ost com m only considered a vegetable to be eaten raw,
may be steamed, sauteed, or even braised. The flavor, te xtu re , and color diffe re nce s produced
in one vegetable when prepared by d iffe re n t techniques can be quite extraordinary.
C a refully handled veg etab le s m aintain th e ir flavo r, color, te x tu re , and n u tritio n a l value
longer. Rinse le a fy or d e lica te vegetables ca re fu lly to avoid bru isin g them , and dry them
tho ro ug hly.
Scrub h a rdier veg etab le s b e fo re peeling. Be sure to rem ove all tra ce s o f d irt or g rit.
In all cases, fro m a sim ple dish o f steam ed or boiled vegetables, served seasoned but
o th e rw ise unadorned, to a com plex veg etab le gra tin, th e b e st overall q u a lity is assured
by p ro p e rly cooking v egetables to th e a p p ro p ria te doneness and serving them as soon as
possible. The style o f service and overall volum e o f the kitche n de te rm in e how much ad­
vance cooking and ho ld ing is desirable ju s t as much as the nature o f the veg etab le and the
cooking m ethod. Sauteed, s tir-frie d , pa n -frie d , and d e e p -frie d dishes m ay be prepared ju s t
a t the m om ent o f service. Braises, stews, and purees are su ite d to batch cooking, since
th e y are easier to hold and lose little , i f any, o f th e ir fla v o r and te x tu re when prepared in
advance and reheated (and may, in fa c t, im prove when held).
There are d is tin c t d iffe re n ce s in how te n d e r a vegetable should be when it is properly
cooked. Some veg etab le s— broccoli and green beans, fo r exam ple— are not considered
pro pe rly cooked u n til they are qu ite tender. O thers, such as snow peas and sugar snap peas,
should always retain some b ite (fu lly cooked but s till firm ). Preferences regarding the co r­
re ct doneness o f certain vegetables may vary fro m one cuisine to a nother and fro m one veg­
etable to another. In addition, the re are d iffe re n t standards fo r d iffe re n t cooking techniques.
For example, s tir-fry in g generally resu lts in a very crisp te xtu re , w hile roa sting and braising
produce very ten der vegetables.

OPTIONS FORREHEATINGVEGETABLES

In simmering stock or water. Place the veg­
etables in a sieve or perforated basket and
lower them into a pot of simmering stock
or water just long enough to heat the veg­
etables through. Drain and immediately
finish the vegetables with butter, sauce,
seasonings, and so on.
In the microwave. Generally best for small
amounts. Evenly space the vegetables on
a flat, round, or oval plate or other micro­
wave-safe container. Some additional liq­
uid may be needed to keep the vegetables
moist. Cover with plastic wrap and cut
vents to allow the steam to escape, or cover
with parchment paper. Reheat on the high­
est power setting for the shortest possible
time, finish immediately, and serve.
By sauteing or sweating. Heat a small
amount of olive oil, butter, cream, stock,
sauce, or glaze in a saute pan and add the
vegetables. Toss over medium-high heat
until warmed through. Add seasonings if
necessary and serve.

680 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 vegetable recipes
Boiled Carrots Steamed Broccoli
Makes10servings Makes10servings
3 q t/2 .8 8 L water 3 lb 8 o z/1 .5 9 kg broccoli (about 4 bunches)

Salt, as needed Salt, as needed

3 lb /1.36 kg carrots, cut into desired shape Ground black pepper, as needed
(oblique, rondelles, batonnet, julienne, etc.)

1 . Trim the broccoli, peel the stems, and cut into

1 . Bring the water to a boil in a large pot. Add enough spears. Arrange the broccoli on a steamer rack or
salt to flavor the water. Add the carrots. If necessary, perforated insert, and season with salt and pepper.
cover the pot to return the water to a boil as quickly
2 . Bring water to a full boil in the bottom of a tightly
as possible. Reduce the heat to a strong simmer.
covered steamer. Add the broccoli rack, replace the
Z . Simmer the carrots until tender, 4 to 7 minutes, cover, and steam the broccoli until tender, 5 to 7
depending on the thickness of the cut. Drain minutes.
immediately.
3 . Remove the broccoli from the steamer, adjust sea­
3 . Serve the carrots immediately, finish as desired, or soning with salt and pepper, and serve immediately,
cool rapidly and refrigerate to reheat and serve later. or forego seasoning if storing and cool and store for
later service.

B rocco li and Toasted G arlic: Saute thinly sliced garlic in

Boiled Edamame b u tte r or oil in a medium saute pan until lightly browned.
Add the steamed broccoli and toss or roll it in the butter
Makes10servings until very hot. Adjust seasoning w ith salt and pepper, as
necessary. Serve immediately.
6 o z/1 7 0 g sea salt

1 q t/9 6 0 m L water

1 lb /4 5 4 g shelled edamame

1 . Add all but 1 tsp/3 g of the salt to the water in a me­

dium stockpot and bring to a boil.
2 . Add the edamame and simmer until tender, 4 to 5
minutes. Drain the edamame and season with the
remaining 1 tsp/3 g ° f salt. Serve hot or cool to room
temperature.

c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S 681
 vegetable recipes
Glazed Beets Creamed Corn
Makes 10 servings Makes 10 servings

1 g al/3 .8 4 L water 6 o z/1 7 0 g fine-dice leeks, light

green and white portions
2 f I o z/6 0 mL red or white wine vinegar
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL heavy cream
2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg red or golden beets, tops and
root ends trimmed, skin on and washed Salt, as needed

3'/2 0 z / 9 9 g sugar Ground black pepper, as needed

1 tb sp /1 5 mL red or white wine vinegar Ground nutmeg, as needed

3 tb sp /4 5 mL orange juice 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g corn kernels, fresh or frozen

8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263) 1 tb sp /3 g chopped chervil

l '/2 o z/4 3 g butter

Salt, as needed
1 . Combine the leeks and cream in a nonreactive me­
dium saucepan. Season with salt, pepper, and nut­
Ground black pepper, as needed
meg. Simmer over medium heat until the cream has
reduced by half.
1 . Combine the water and 2 fl oz/6o mL vinegar in a
2 . Steam the corn over boiling water until fully cooked,
large pot and add the beets. Bring the water to a boil,
4 to 5 minutes. Drain the corn and add to the leek
reduce to a simmer, and cook the beets until they are
mixture. Simmer to reach a good flavor and consis­
soft when pierced with a fork or skewer, about 40
tency, 2 to 3 minutes more.
minutes, depending on size.
3 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
2 . Drain and cool slightly. Peel and slice the beets into
Add the chopped chervil if serving immediately or
Vi-in/e-mm-thick rounds or uniform wedges. Hold
add to corn just before serving. Serve now or hold it
warm until ready to serve.
hot for service.
3 . In a small saute pan, combine the sugar, vinegar,
juice, stock, and butter and bring to a simmer. Cook
gently until the glaze has the consistency of a light
syrup, about 15 minutes.
4 . When ready to serve, toss the cut beets in the glaze
over medium heat. Season with salt and pepper.
Serve immediately.

chapter 22 » C O O K I N G V E G E T A B L E S 683
Pan-Steamed Carrots Gingered Snow Peas
Makes 10 servings
and Yellow Squash
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg sliced carrots ('A in/6 mm thick) Makes 10 servings
3 o z/8 5 g butter
2 tb sp /3 0 mL peanut oil
1 tsp /1 g chopped parsley
2 tb s p /1 8 g minced ginger
Salt, as needed
V2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 tsp /6 g minced garlic

1 . Pour about i in/3 cm salted water into a large sauce­ 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g snow peas, strings removed

pan and bring to a boil. 12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-dice yellow squash

2 . Add the carrots, adding more water if necessary to Salt, as needed

barely cover the carrots. Bring to a boil. Cover the Freshly ground white pepper, as needed
pan tightly, and reduce the heat slightly.
3 . Pan steam the carrots until they are fully cooked and 1 . Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium heat.
tender to the bite, 5 to 6 minutes.
2 . Add the ginger, shallots, and garlic and saute until
4 . When done, drain any excess water from the pan. fragrant, about 1 minute.
• Return the carrots to the heat and allow excess
3 . Add the snow peas and squash and saute until ten­
moisture to evaporate. Add the butter and parsley
der, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
and season with salt and pepper. Stir or toss until the
Serve immediately.
carrots are evenly coated and very hot. Serve imme­
diately.

Pan-Steam ed H a rico ts V erts: S u b stitu te 2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg

trim m ed haricots verts fo r the carrots. Pan steam the
haricots verts according to the above method. To f inish
the haricots verts, saute 1 tb s p /9 g minced shallot irt
2 tb sp /3 0 mL olive oil until translucent. Add the cooked
haricots verts and toss to coat. Season with salt and
pepper and serve immediately.

Pecan C arrots: Prepare the carrots as directed above. In

step 4, add 3A oz/21 g minced shallot, V / 2 oz/43 g
honey, and 3 oz/85 g chopped toasted pecans w ith the
butter. Substitute minced chives fo r the parsley.

yudhacookbook.com

VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
 vegetable recipes
Green Beans with Glazed Carrots
Makes 10 servings
Walnuts
Makes 10 servings 3 o z/8 5 g butter

2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg oblique-cut carrots

2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg haricots verts, cleaned
VAo z/4 3 g sugar
2 o z/5 7 g butter
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL water, Chicken Stock (page
2 o z/5 7 g minced shallot 263), or Vegetable Stock (page 265), hot

1 tsp/B g minced garlic Salt, as needed

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263), hot Ground white pepper, as needed

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed 1 . Melt the butter in a large saute pan over medium-
low heat. Add the carrots.
2 tb s p /3 0 mL walnut oil
2 . Cover the pan and sweat the carrots for 2 to 3
3 o z/8 5 g chopped walnuts
minutes.
1 tb sp /3 g minced chives
3 . Add the sugar and liquid. Season with salt and pep­
per. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium
1 . Cut the green beans on the bias, if desired. heat.
2 . Heat the butter in a small rondeau or large sautoir. 4 . Cover the pan and cook the carrots over low heat
Add the shallots and garlic and saute over medium- until they are almost tender, about 5 minutes.
high heat until translucent, i to 2 minutes.
5 . Remove the lid and continue to simmer until the
3 . Add the green beans in an even layer. Add the stock. cooking liquid reduces to a glaze and the carrots are
Season with salt and pepper. tender, 2 to 3 minutes.
4 . Bring to a simmer, cover the pan, and pan steam the 6 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and serve
beans until tender. The cooking liquid should reduce immediately.
during this time and thicken slightly to coat the
beans. If necessary, remove the cover and continue
simmering until the liquid is almost fully reduced
and coats the vegetables, l to 2 minutes more.
5 . Toss the green beans with the oil, walnuts, and
chives. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and
serve immediately.

chapter 22 » C O O K I N G V E G E T A B L E S 685
 Grilled Vegetables
Provenqal-Style
Makes 10 servings
2 o z/5 7 g garlic cloves
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL olive oil, or as needed
2 tbsp /6 g minced rosemary
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g zucchini, cut into ’/H n /1 .2 5 -c m thick
slices (either on an elongated bias or lengthwise)
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g eggplant, cut into '/2-in/1.25-cm thick
slices (either on an elongated bias or lengthwise)
8 o z/2 2 7 g onion, sliced into !/2-in/1.25-cm rings
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
6 o z/1 7 0 g green pepper
6 o z/1 7 0 g red pepper
4 o z /1 13 g peeled, seeded, and medium-diced tomato
1 tb sp /1 5 mL balsamic vinegar
1 o z/2 8 g basil chiffonade
1 . Place the garlic in a large, shallow pan and add
enough oil to barely cover it. Add the rosemary
and simmer over very low heat until the garlic is
blanched but not falling apart, 15 to 20 minutes. Re­
move from the heat and cool to room temperature.
Reserve.
2 . Brush the zucchini, eggplant, and onion rings with the
garlic and rosemary oil and season with salt and pep­
per. Place them on the hot grill and cook on the first
side until browned. Turn once and complete cooking
on the second side until the vegetables are tender, 3
minutes total or more. Remove from the grill.
3 . Grill the peppers until evenly charred on all sides.
Remove from the grill and let the peppers cool. Re­
move the skin, core, seeds, and ribs. Cut the peppers
into %-in/i.25 cm strips.
4 . Put the garlic and 2 fl oz/6o mL of the oil in a large,
deep saucepan and heat over medium heat. Remove
the pan from the heat. Add the grilled vegetables
and the tomatoes and stir gently to blend the flavors.
Add the vinegar and adjust seasoning with salt and
pepper. Fold in the basil and serve immediately, or
hold the vegetables warm for service and garnish
individual servings with basil.
686 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
M a rin a te d G rilled V egetables: Combine 8 f l oz/2 40 mL
vegetable oil, 2 f l o z/6 0 mL soy sauce, 2 tb sp /3 0 mL
lemon juice, 2 tsp /6 g minced garlic, and V 2 tsp /1 g
crushed fennel seeds. Marinate the zucchini, eggplant,
onion rings, and peppers fo r 1 hour, then allow any
excess marinade to drain o ff before grilling.
Grilled Shiitake
Mushrooms with
Soy-Sesame Glaze
Makes 10 servings
SOY-SESAME GLAZE
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL soy sauce or tamari
2 fl o z/6 0 mL water
2 f I o z/6 0 mL peanut or corn oil
2 o z/5 7 gtahini paste
1 tb s p /1 5 mL sesame oil
1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic
2 tsp /6 g minced ginger
V 2 tsp /1 g red pepper flakes (optional)
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg shiitake mushrooms
10 green onions, cleaned and root end trimmed
3/ t oz/21 g toasted sesame seeds
1 . Combine all the ingredients for the glaze in a small
bowl. Keep refrigerated until needed.
2 . If desired, slice any large mushroom caps in half
lengthwise.
3 . Add the mushrooms and green onions to the glaze
and marinate for at least 15 minutes or up to 1 hour.
4 . Remove the mushrooms and green onions from the
glaze, letting the excess drain away.
5 . Grill the mushrooms and green onions until marked
on all sides and cooked through, about 2 minutes on
each side.
6 . Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and serve immediately.
NOTE: Once grilled, the mushrooms can be returned to the
marinade, allowed to cool to room temperature, and
added to salads or other dishes as a garnish.
 Zucchini Pancakes 6 . Pour enough oil into a large saute pan to come to a
depth of about Vs in/3 mm- Heat over medium-high
with Tzatziki heat until the surface of the oil shimmers. Working
Makes 10 servings in batches, drop 2 to 3 tablespoons/30 to 45 mL of
the zucchini mixture into the oil, leaving enough
1 r /2 o z/3 2 6 g zucchini, grated room for the pancakes to spread as they cook.
Sait, as needed Fry the pancakes until golden brown and cooked
through, about 3 minutes per side. Blot the cakes
4'/z o z/1 2 8 g green onions, thinly sliced
on a paper towel before transferring each batch of
4 eggs pancakes to the sheet pan in the oven to keep warm.
2'/2 o z/71 g all-purpose flour Replenish the oil in the pan as needed.

V2 o z/1 4 g chopped dill 7 . To make the tzatziki, combine the yogurt, sour
cream, cucumber, and garlic in a food processor and
VA o z/3 5 g chopped parsley
puree until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and fold in
2 tbsp /6 g chopped tarragon
the olive oil, mint, lemon juice, and zest.
V2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
8 . Stir until combined and season with salt and pepper.
3 o z/8 5 g feta cheese, finely crumbled Keep refrigerated until needed for service.
3 o z/8 5 g pine nuts 9 . Serve the pancakes with the tzatziki sauce on the
Olive oil, as needed side.

TZATZIKI NOTE: The pancake mixture can be prepared through step 4

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL plain yogurt up to 3 hours ahead. Cover tig h tly and refrigerate. S tir to
blend before continuing.
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL sour cream

2'/2 o z/71 g cucumber, peeled,

seeded, and cut into small dice

1 ts p /3 g minced garlic

1 tb s p /1 5 mL extra-virgin olive oil

Asparagus with
1 tb sp /3 g minced mint or dill Plollandaise
1 ts p /5 mL lemon juice Makes 10 servings
Vi ts p /1 .5 0 g grated lemon zest
HOLLANDAISE
Salt, as needed
V2 o z/1 4 g minced shallots
Ground black pepper, as needed
3/ t ts p /1 .5 0 g cracked black pepper

1 . Place the zucchini in a colander. Sprinkle with 1V2 3 tb s p /4 5 mL white wine

tsp/5 g salt and let stand for 30 minutes. 3 fl o z/9 0 mL cider vinegar
2 . Squeeze the zucchini to remove as much liquid as 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL cold water
possible. Dry the zucchini by pressing it between
6 egg yolks
several layers of paper towels.
1 lb /4 5 4 g clarified butter, warm
3 . Combine the zucchini, green onions, eggs, flour,
2 ts p /1 0 mL lemon juice
dill, parsley, and tarragon. Season with salt and pep­
per. Mix until evenly blended. Fold in the feta (see 1 ts p /3 g salt
Note). '/4 ts p /0 .5 0 g ground white pepper
4 . Fold in the pine nuts. ]A ts p /1 .2 5 mL hot sauce
5 . Place a sheet pan in a 300°F/i49°C oven to hold the
pancakes warm as you work.

688 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S


4 lb 5 o z/1.96 kg asparagus
2 g al/7.68 L water
2 o z/5 7 g salt
1 . To make the hollandaise, place the shallots, cracked
black pepper, white wine, and cider vinegar in a
small saucepan over medium heat. Allow to simmer
until almost dry, about 5 minutes.
2 . Pour the cold water into the pan immediately to stop
the reduction. Strain the cool mixture into a bowl
with the egg yolks and whisk together.
3 . Place the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water.
The water should never touch the bottom of the
bowl. Whisk the mixture until it is light and fluffy
and ribbons fall off the whisk and back into the
bowl. Remove from the heat about once a minute
and continue whisking for about 10 seconds to allow
the temperature to stabilize, then place back on the
saucepan and continue whisking. Remove from the
heat and continue whisking to prevent the mixture
from overcooking from carryover heat.
4 . Begin slowly drizzling the clarified butter into the
yolk mixture while whisking constantly. If the butter
is not incorporating completely, stop and whisk until
it has disappeared and then resume.
5 . Once the butter is completely incorporated, whisk
for an additional 10 seconds and season with lemon
juice, salt, white pepper, and hot sauce.
6 . Pass through a strainer to remove clumps and serve
immediately or place in a metal container in a
i50°F/66°C water bath.
7 . Trim the asparagus to remove the woody part by
bending the stalk gently until it snaps.
8 . Combine the water and salt in a large stockpot and
bring to a boil. Add the asparagus and boil until
cooked through, about 5 minutes.
9 . Drain the asparagus and serve with the hollandaise
immediately.
vegetable recipes
Baked Acorn Squash
with Cranberry-
Orange Compote
Makes 12 servings
3 acorn squash (about 1 lb 8 o z/6 80 g each)
2'A o z/7 1 g brown sugar, honey, or maple syrup
5 o z/1 4 2 g butter, diced into 12 pieces
V/2 ts p /5 g salt, or as needed
3A ts p /1 .5 0 g ground black pepper, or as needed
2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Cranberry-Orange
Compote (recipe follows)
1 . Quarter the squash and remove the seeds. Place the
squash cut side up on a sheet pan. Sprinkle with the
sugar. Place 1 cube of butter on each quarter. Season
with salt and pepper.
2 . Cover the squash with foil and bake in a 400°F/
204°C oven for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and
bake until tender, about 15 minutes more, basting
periodically.
3 . Serve each portion of the squash on a heated plate,
topped with 2 fl oz/6o mL cranberry-orange
compote.
Cranberry-Orange Compote
Makes 32 fl 0 Z/960 mL
2 lb /9 0 7 g cranberries
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL orange juice
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar, or as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g orange zest, cut into fine julienne, blanched
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Combine the cranberries, juice, and enough water
to barely cover the berries in a nonreactive medium
saucepan. Add the sugar and simmer over medium
heat until the berries are soft and the liquid is thick­
ened, 8 to 10 minutes.
2 . Stir in the orange zest. Season with salt and pepper.
Serve hot.
chapter 22 » CO O K I N G V E G E T A B L E S 689

Spaghetti Squash
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg spaghetti squash
1 o z/2 8 g butter
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Halve the squash and remove the seeds. Place the
squash, cut side down, in a medium roasting pan.
Add enough water to cover by one-third. Cover with
a lid or foil.
2 . Roast in a 375°F/i9i°C oven until the squash is ex­
tremely tender, about l hour. To check for doneness,
pierce with a kitchen fork or paring knife. There
should be no resistance.
3 . When the squash is cool enough to handle, scoop out
the flesh, using a fork to separate it into strands.
4 . Reheat the squash by sauteing it in the butter in a
large sautoir over medium heat. Season with salt and
pepper and serve immediately.
vegetable recipes
B utternut Squash
Puree
M akes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg butternut squash, halved, seeded
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, soft
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL heavy cream, hot
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Pierce the squash and place it in a medium roast­
ing pan, cut side down. Add enough water to create
steam during the initial roasting time. Cover with a
lid or foil, if desired.
2 . Roast in a 375°F/i9i°C oven until the squash is ex­
tremely tender, about l hour. To check for doneness,
pierce with a kitchen fork or paring knife. There
should be no resistance. Remove the lid or foil dur­
ing the final 15 minutes of cooking to brown the
squash.
3 . Remove from the oven. As soon as the squash can be
safely handled (it should still be very hot), scoop the
flesh from the skin.
4 . Puree the squash flesh using a food mill, blender, or
food processor.
5 . If necessary, transfer the puree to a medium sauce
pot and simmer over low heat to thicken.
6 . Stir in the butter and cream and season with salt and
pepper. The puree is ready to use at once, or may be
rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S
Curried Roasted Oven-Roasted
Cauliflower Tomatoes
Makes 10 servings Makes 10 servings

2 heads cauliflower (about 4 lb/1.81 kg), core removed 4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg Roma tomatoes

2 f I o z/6 0 mL olive oil, or as needed 3 fl o z/9 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil

2 tb s p /1 3 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased) Vi o z/1 4 g minced garlic

2 ts p /4 g ground cumin seed V2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot

1 ts p /3 g salt, or as needed 2 tsp /2 g basil chiffonade

Vi tsp /1 g ground black pepper, or as needed 2 tsp /2 g chopped oregano

1 tsp /1 g chopped thyme

1 . Break the cauliflower into pieces and slice larger Salt, as needed
pieces in half. Toss with the olive oil, curry powder,
Ground black pepper, as needed
cumin, salt, and pepper.
2 . Place the cauliflower on a parchment-lined sheet
1 . Remove the cores from the tomatoes and cut into
pan and roast in a 400°F/240°C oven until golden
the desired shape (halves, quarters, wedges, or
brown, about 30 minutes, turning as necessary.
slices). Arrange in a single layer skin side down on a
Serve immediately.
rack over a sheet pan.
2 . Combine the oil, garlic, shallots, basil, oregano, and
thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Drizzle or brush
this mixture over the tomatoes and turn carefully to
coat them. Make sure that the skin side is down be­
fore roasting.

3 . Roast in a 275°F/i35°C oven until the tomatoes are

dried and lightly browned, 1 to 1V2 hours.
4 . The tomatoes are ready to serve now or use as an
ingredient in another dish, or they may be cooled on
the racks and stored, covered, under refrigeration.

Oven-Roasted Tomatoes

VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
M arinated Roasted Peppers
 vegetable recipes
Marinated Roasted Roasted Carrots
Makes 10 servings
Peppers
Makes 10 servings 2 o z/5 7 g duck fat, lard, or vegetable oil

2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg oblique-cut carrots

4 lb 4 o z/1.93 kg roasted red and
yellow peppers (see page 694) Salt, as needed

4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL olive oil Ground black pepper, as needed

4 o z/1 1 3 g golden raisins

1 . Preheat a medium roasting pan in a 350°F/i77°C
4 o z/1 1 3 g toasted pine nuts
oven. Melt the fat in the pan.
Vi o z /1 4 g chopped parsley
2 . Add the carrots, toss with the melted fat, and season
2 Vits p /7 .5 0 g minced garlic with salt and pepper. Roast the carrots until tender
Salt, as needed and golden brown, stirring occasionally.

Ground black pepper, as needed 3 . Serve immediately.

1 . Cut the roasted peppers into %-in/6-mm slices and

drain in a sieve or colander for 2 hours.
2 . Combine the peppers with the oil, raisins, pine nuts,
parsley, and garlic, and season with salt and pepper.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.

c h a p te r 22 » C O O K I N G V E G E T A B L E S 695
Shrimp-Stuffed
Mirlitons
Makes 10 servings
5 mirlitons or chayote squash
3 o z/8 5 g butter
8 o z/2 2 7 g minced onion
2 medium green peppers, cut into small dice
2 celery ribs, cut into small dice
2 garlic cloves, minced
8 o z/2 2 7 g peeled, deveined, and small-diced shrimp
5 o z/1 4 2 g fresh bread crumbs
Hot sauce, as needed
1 tb sp /3 g minced thyme
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 egg, lightly beaten
Vegetable oil, as needed
1 . Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil over
high heat. Boil the mirlitons until tender, about 20
minutes. Drain.
2 . When cool enough to handle, cut the mirlitons in
half lengthwise. Remove and discard the large center
seed and scoop out the pulp, leaving the shells intact
with %-in/6-mm sides. Coarsely chop the pulp and
reserve.
3 . In a large saute pan, melt 2 oz/57 g of the butter
over medium heat. Add the onions, green peppers,
celery, and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until the
vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the
chopped mirliton pulp and cook for 5 minutes more.
Add the shrimp. Stir in 3 oz/85 g of the bread crumbs,
hot sauce, and thyme. Season with salt and pepper.
4 . Let the stuffing cool slightly. Stir in the egg.
5 . Arrange the mirliton shells cut side up on an oiled
half sheet pan. Spoon the stuffing into the shells,
sprinkle with the remaining bread crumbs, and dot
with the remaining butter.
6 . Bake uncovered in a 350°F/i77°C oven, until the
stuffing is firm and the tops are golden brown, 30 to
35 minutes. Serve immediately.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Eggplant Parmesan
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg eggplant
V/2 o z/4 3 g salt
1 tsp /2 g ground black pepper
13 o z/3 6 9 g all-purpose flour
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Egg Wash (page 365)
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dried bread crumbs
26 fl o z/7 8 0 mL vegetable oil
50 f I o z/1.50 L Tomato Sauce (page 295)
10 o z/2 8 4 g grated Parmesan
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g mozzarella cheese,
sliced Vs in /3 mm thick (20 slices)
1 . Peel the eggplant and cut it into y2-in/i-cm circles.
You will need 40 slices total (4 per serving). Lay the
eggplant slices on a sheet pan lined with parchment
paper and lightly salt them. Set aside for 30 minutes
to release moisture.
2 . Drain the eggplant on paper towels. Season the
eggplant with pepper and coat it using the standard
breading procedure (see page 365).
3 . Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium-high
heat. Working in batches, pan fry the eggplant slices
until golden brown. Drain for 2 to 3 minutes on
paper towels, then transfer to a rack.
4 . Place ten 12-fl oz/360-mL casserole dishes on a sheet
pan. Spread about 2 fl oz/6o mL of tomato sauce on
the bottom of each. Lay 2 slices of the fried eggplant
on top of the tomato sauce. Sprinkle about V2 oz/14 g
of the Parmesan over the top and lay on 1 slice of
mozzarella. Top with about 2 fl oz/6o mL more
tomato sauce and place 2 more eggplant slices on
top. Evenly spread 2 tbsp/30 mL more of the tomato
sauce on top and cover with the remaining slice of
mozzarella and V2 oz/14 g ° f Parmesan.
5 . Bake the eggplant in a 350°F/i77°C oven until golden
brown on top and the sauce is bubbling. Serve
immediately.
Eggplant Parmesan
 vegetable recipes
Poblanos Rellenos until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Combine with the
Makes 10 servings beans. Add the jalapeno Jack, dry Jack, queso Chihua­
hua, caciotta, marjoram, epazote, oregano, 1 tsp/3 g ° f
4 o z/1 1 3 g dried black beans, soaked overnight the salt, and the pepper. Mix together gently.

4 o z /1 13 g dried red kidney beans, soaked overnight 5 . Fill each chile with 3 oz/85 g ° f the filling, taking care
10 poblano chiles not to overstuff. Close the seam of the chiles around
the filling, overlapping the cut edges.
FILLING
6 . Heat the poblanos rellenos in a 350°F/i77°C oven un­
2 o z/5 7 g small-dice onion til the filling is very hot, 18 to 20 minutes.
2 tsp /6 g minced garlic 7 . Serve each poblano relleno with 6 tortilla chips,
1 tb s p /1 5 mL olive oil 1 cilantro sprig, 2 tbsp/30 mL guacamole, 1 tbsp/15 mL
sour cream, and 2 tbsp/30 mL of summer squash salsa.
4 o z /1 13 g grated jalapeno Jack

4 o z/1 1 3 g grated dry Jack NOTE: The chiles can also be battered and deep fried, if

4 o z/1 1 3 g grated queso Chihuahua desired, as in the Chiles Rellenos con Picadillo Oaxaqueno
on page 528.
4 o z/1 1 3 g grated ancho caciotta

2 tsp /2 g chopped marjoram

I V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g dried epazote Summer Squash Salsa

1 ts p /2 g dried Mexican oregano, crushed Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL

2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
1 yellow squash, seeded, cut into small dice
'/2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
1 zucchini, seeded, cut into small dice

V/2 o z/4 3 g small-dice carrots

60 Tortilla Chips (page 962)
6 V2 o z/1 8 4 g small-dice plum tomatoes
10 cilantro sprigs
3 o z/8 5 g small-dice tomatillos
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Guacamole (page 958)
3 o z/8 5 g small-dice red onion
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL sour cream
V2 o z/1 4 g minced chipotle chile
10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Summer Squash
Salsa (recipe follows) V/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g coarsely chopped marjoram

4 ts p /4 g roughly chopped cilantro

1 . Cook each type of bean separately in simmering wa­
2 tb s p /3 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
ter until completely tender, about 90 minutes for the
2 tb sp /3 0 mL rice wine vinegar
black beans and 1 hour for the kidney beans. Drain
and cool to room temperature. '/2 ts p /2 .5 0 g sugar

2 .. Wash and dry the poblanos. Roast over an open Salt, as needed
flame on medium heat, turning them occasionally Ground black pepper, as needed
to ensure even cooking. When most of the skin is
charred and the chiles are halfway tender, place
1 . Blanch the squash, zucchini, and carrots separately in
them in a large bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and
boiling salted water until just tender. Shock in an ice
allow them to sweat for 30 minutes.
water bath and drain.
3 . Using the back of a paring knife, remove the blis­
2 . Combine the blanched squash, zucchini, and carrots
tered skin without cutting or damaging the chiles.
with the tomatoes, tomatillos, onion, chipotle, mar­
Cut a slit down the length of each chile. Scrape out
joram, cilantro, oil, vinegar, and sugar and mix well.
the seeds, making sure to leave the chiles whole.
Season with salt and pepper.
4 . To make the filling, sweat the onions and garlic in the
The salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated
olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat
for later use.

chapter 22 » C OOK I N G V E G E T A B L E S 699

 Mushroom 4 . Cook the tortillas in batches in a dry medium pan
over medium heat until lightly browned on both
Quesadillas with Two sides, 2 to 3 minutes. Cover the tortillas and
reserve.
Salsas 5 . To make the mushroom filling, heat the oil in a
Makes 10 servings medium saute pan over medium heat. Add the
onions and garlic and saute until the onions are
FLOUR TORTILLAS translucent, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms
2 3/ t o z/7 8 g shortening and chiles and saute until the mushrooms are
tender, 4 to 5 minutes more.
1 lb 3 o z/5 39 g all-purpose flour
6 . Add the lime juice, epazote, and thyme. Season
Vi o z/1 4 g salt
with salt and pepper. Cook until the liquid evapo­
10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL water (90°F/32°C ) rates. Cool the mixture completely and reserve.
MUSHROOM FILLING 7 . Grate the queso Chihuahua and stir into the re­
1 tb s p /1 5 mL olive oil served mushroom filling.

6 3/» o z/1 91 g onions, minced 8 . Assemble the quesadillas by dividing the mush­
room filling between the flour tortillas.
3 garlic cloves, minced
9 . Cook the assembled quesadillas in a lightly oiled
2 lb /9 0 7 g mushrooms, sliced Va in /3 mm thick
cast-iron skillet over medium heat until lightly
1 tbsp /8 g minced serrano chile browned on the outside and the filling is heated
3 f I o z/9 0 mL lime juice through. If necessary, the quesadillas can be fin­

1 tsp /1 g dried epazote

ished in a 35o°F/i77°C oven.

IV 2 ts p /3 g dried thyme 0 . Serve with frijoles a la charra, arroz Mexicano,

salsa roja, and salsa verde cruda.
Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

8 o z/2 2 7 g queso Chihuahua

2 q t/1 .9 2 L Frijoles a la Charra (page 773)

2 lb /9 0 7 g Arroz Mexicano (page 782)

1 lb /4 5 4 g Salsa Roja (page 954)

1 lb 11 o z/7 6 5 g Salsa Verde Cruda (page 954)

1 . To make the flour tortillas, cut the shortening into

the flour in a medium bowl using your fingertips.
Continue to rub until the mixture reaches a mealy
consistency.
2 . Add the salt and water and mix just until a smooth
dough forms. Cover the dough and let it rest at
room temperature for 20 minutes.
3 . Divide the dough into i 3A-oz/^o-g pieces and roll
into rounds. Roll out each piece of dough on a
floured surface to about Vie in/1.50 mm thick.
Brush off any excess flour and stack the tortillas
with pieces of parchment paper in between to pre­
vent sticking.

700 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 vegetable recipes
Seasonal Vegetable 5 . Combine the water and eggs. Add gradually to the
flour and butter mixture, mixing on low speed just
Tarts until a shaggy mass forms. Remove the dough from
Makes 10 servings the mixer and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Let the
dough rest, refrigerated, for l hour.
2Vi f I o z/7 5 mL olive oil 6 . Divide the dough into 10 pieces on a lightly floured
6 V 2 o z/1 8 4 g onions, sliced surface. Wrap each piece of dough and refrigerate
'/2 0 z /1 4 g garlic until needed (see Note).

10 o z/2 8 4 g zucchini, cut on the bias 'A in/6 mm thick 7 . Roll out the dough to Vs in/3 mm thick on a lightly
floured surface. Cut the dough with a 6-in/i5-cm cut­
14 oz/B97 g yellow squash, cut on
the bias V* in/6 mm thick
ter. Dock with a fork and bake on a parchment-lined
sheet pan in a 350°F/i77°C oven until golden brown,
lib 1 o z/4 8 2 g eggplant, cut on
about 20 minutes. Let the tart shells cool completely.
the bias 'A in/6 mm thick
8 . Evenly distribute the reserved onions and garlic
1 2 3A o z/3 61 g plum tomatoes, cut
on the bias 'A in/6 mm thick between the cooled tart shells. Arrange the reserved
vegetable mixture in circles over the onions. Bake
Salt, as needed
the tarts in a 350°F/i77°C oven to warm through,
Ground black pepper, as needed
about 10 minutes. Garnish with basil and serve im­
2 tbsp /6 g chopped thyme mediately.
1 o z/2 8 g pitted Kalamata olives, coarsely chopped
NOTE: Pate brisee can be held in the refrigerator or freezer.
PATE BRISEE Thaw the frozen dough at room temperature.

2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg cake flour

3A o z/21 g salt

lib 2 o z/5 1 0 g butter, cubed

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL water

4 o z/1 1 3 g eggs

GARNISH

Basil chiffonade, as needed

1 . Heat half of the olive oil in a medium sauteuse over

medium heat. Add the onions and sweat until ten­
der, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and saute until
fragrant. Remove from the pan and reserve.
2 . Add the remaining olive oil to the pan. Saute the
zucchini, yellow squash, and eggplant separately
until tender. Remove each from the pan and reserve
in a bowl.
3 . Add the tomatoes to the reserved zucchini, squash,
and eggplant, toss to combine, and season with salt
and pepper. Add the thyme and olives and toss to
combine. Reserve.
4 . To make the pate brisee, combine the flour and salt
in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough
hook. Add the butter and mix until crumbly.

Chapter 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S 701
 Sauteed Arugula Stir-Fried Shanghai
Makes 10 servings
Bok Choy (Qinchao
4 lb/1.81 kg arugula

2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable or olive oil

Shanghai Baicai)
Makes 10 servings
'/2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot

2'/2 ts p /7.50 g minced garlic 2 lb /9 0 7 g baby bok choy

Salt, as needed 2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
Ground black pepper, as needed 8 garlic cloves, sliced thin

1 . Wash, rinse, and drain the arugula, removing any
tough or split stems.
2 . Heat the oil in a very large saute pan, add the shal­
lots, and saute over medium heat until they begin to
turn translucent, l to 2 minutes. Add the garlic and
saute until it begins to release its aroma.
3 . Add the arugula, filling the pan (the arugula will wilt
down as it sautes), and cooking in batches if neces­
sary. Toss or turn the arugula as it cooks.
4 . Saute the arugula until it is completely wilted and
tender and very hot. Season with salt and pepper
and serve immediately.
Salt, as needed
Sugar, as needed
1 . Rinse the bok choy, and drain well. Cut the bok choy
lengthwise in half. Score the cores to promote even
cooking.
2 . Blanch the bok choy in boiling salted water, shock in
an ice water bath, and drain well.
3 . Heat the oil in a wok, add the garlic, and stir-fry un­
til aromatic and light brown.
4 . Add the bok choy and stir-fry until the bok choy is
just cooked through. Add a small amount of water
to the wok to keep the garlic from burning, if neces­
sary. Season with salt and sugar.
5 . Serve immediately.

702 VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

S tir-F ried Shanghai Bok Choy (Qinchao Shanghai Baicai)
 Summer Squash
Noodles
Makes 10 servings
12 o z/3 6 0 g yellow squash, cut in long julienne
12 o z/3 6 0 g zucchini, cut in long julienne
12 o z/3 6 0 g leeks, light green and white parts
only, cut in long julienne and blanched
12 o z/3 6 0 green beans, blanched and split lengthwise
V/ 2 o z/4 3 g butter
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
3A oz/2 1 g chopped herbs, such as
tarragon, basil, or cilantro
1 . Toss the squash, zucchini, leeks, and green beans
together in a large bowl.
2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium
heat. Add the vegetables and saute, tossing frequently,
until they are heated through and tender, about 5
minutes.
3 . Season the vegetables with salt and pepper. Add the
chopped herbs and serve immediately.
704 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Belgian Endive a la
Meuniere
Makes 10 servings
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg Belgian endive
1 o z/2 8 g salt, plus as needed
1 tb sp /1 5g su g a r
2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL milk
Ground black pepper, as needed
Z A o z/6 4 g all-purpose flour
3 tb sp /4 5 mL clarified butter or oil
3 o z/8 5 g whole butter
V2 o z/1 4 g chopped parsley
1 . Remove any bruised or damaged outer endive leaves
and trim the bottoms. Bring a large pot of water to a
boil and season with the salt, sugar, and 1 tbsp/15 mL
of the lemon juice. Add the endive and simmer until
partially cooked, about 3 minutes. Drain, shock in an
ice water bath, and drain well.
2 . Trim the endive cores with a sharp knife (there
should be enough core left to hold the leaves together)
and flatten each head slightly by pressing down on it
with the palm of your hand.
3 . To finish the endive, dip each head in milk, season
with salt and pepper, and dredge in flour, shaking off
the excess.
4 . Heat the clarified butter in a large heavy saute pan
over medium-high heat. Saute the endive until crisp
and brown on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes total cook­
ing time. Remove the endive from the pan and keep
warm.
5 . Pour off any excess fat from the pan. Add the whole
butter and cook over medium heat until it begins to
brown and take on a nutty aroma. Add the remain­
ing lemon juice and the parsley and swirl until the
mixture thickens slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour the
pan sauce over the endive and serve immediately.
 vegetable recipes
Broccoli Rabe with Jardiniere Vegetables
Makes 10 servings
Garlic and Hot
9 o z/2 5 5 g carrots, cut into batonnet
Crushed Pepper (Cime 9 o z/2 5 5 g celery, cut into batonnet

9 o z/2 5 5 g white turnips, cut into batonnet

d i B r o c c o l i c o n A g l i o e
9 o z/2 5 5 g shelled green peas
Pepperoncino) 4 o z /1 1 3 g b u tte r
Makes 10 servings Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

4 lb/1.81 kg broccoli rabe, washed
and tough stems trimmed Sugar, as needed
2 fl o z/6 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley
1 o z/2 8 g thinly sliced garlic

VA ts p /2.50 g red pepper flakes 1 . In a large stockpot, blanch the carrots, celery, tur­
nips, and peas separately in boiling salted water, 1
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed
to 2 minutes, drain, shock in an ice bath, and drain
Salt, as needed
again.
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice
2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium
VA ts p /4 .5 0 g finely grated lemon zest heat. Add the vegetables (by individual servings or
batches) and season with salt, pepper, and sugar.
1 . Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Working in Toss or stir until the vegetables are evenly coated
small batches, add the broccoli rabe and cook until with the butter and very hot.
tender but firm, about 3 minutes. Shock the broccoli 3 . Add parsley and serve immediately.
rabe in an ice water bath and drain very well. Refrig­
erate if it is to be finished later.
2 . Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium-high
heat. Add the garlic and pepper flakes and saute un­
til the garlic is lightly golden, about 2 minutes.
3 . Add the broccoli rabe and stock and cook over high
heat, mixing the broccoli rabe thoroughly to distrib­
ute the garlic and peppers evenly. Cook until most of
the liquid evaporates, 2 to 3 minutes.
4 . Season with salt and lemon juice. Serve immedi­
ately, garnished with the zest.

c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S 705
Vegetable Julienne Macedoine of
Makes 10 servings
Vegetables
4 o z/1 13 g carrots, cut into julienne Makes 10 servings
4 o z /1 13 g celery, cut into julienne
2 o z/5 7 g butter
4 o z/1 1 3 g leeks, light green and white
parts only, cut into julienne 2 o z/5 7 g large-dice mushrooms

2 o z/5 7 g butter V i o z/1 4 g minced shallot

Salt, as needed 2 o z/5 7 g large-dice onion

Ground black pepper, as needed 4 o z/1 1 3 g large-dice celery

6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice zucchini

1 . In a large stock pot, blanch the carrots, celery, and 6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice yellow squash
leeks separately in boiling salted water, l to 2 min­
6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice carrots,
utes. Drain, shock in an ice water bath, and drain steamed or boiled until tender
again.
6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice white turnips,
2 . Heat the butter in a medium saute pan over medium steamed or boiled until tender
heat. Add the vegetables (by individual servings or 6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice rutabagas,
batches) and season with salt and pepper. Toss or stir steamed or boiled until tender
until the vegetables are evenly coated with the butter
2 o z/5 7 g small-dice red pepper
and very hot.
Minced chives, as needed
3 . Serve immediately.
Chopped tarragon, as needed

Basil chiffonade, as needed

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

1 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium-

high heat. Add the mushrooms and shallots and
cook, stirring from time to time, until the juices have
reduced, 2 to 3 minutes.
2 . Add the onions and celery and saute until the onions
are translucent, about 5 minutes.
3 . Add the zucchini and squash and saute until they are
tender, 2 to 3 minutes.
4 . Add the carrots, turnips, rutabagas, and red peppers.
Saute them until heated through, 2 minutes more.
5 . Add chives, tarragon, and basil and toss to mix. Sea­
son with salt and pepper. Serve immediately or hold
hot for service. If holding hot for service, add the
herbs just before serving.

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S . A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
 vegetable recipes
Spinach Pancakes 1 . Slice the zucchini on the bias, V2 in/i cm thick. Blot
Makes 10 servings dry with paper towels.

2 . Pour the oil into a medium saute pan or cast-iron

12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL milk
skillet to about 2 in/5 cm deep. Heat to 325°F/i63°C.
1 o z/2 8 g butter, melted
3 . Season the zucchini slices with salt, dredge in flour,
4 eggs and shake off the excess. Dip them into the batter to
12 o z/3 4 0 g all-purpose flour coat both sides evenly. Allow any excess batter to drain
back into the bowl. Carefully lay the zucchini in the
1 tb s p /1 5 g sugar
hot fat. Pan fry on the first side until browned, 1 to 2
2 lb /9 0 7 g spinach, blanched, squeezed minutes. Turn carefully and complete cooking on the
dry, coarsely chopped
second side until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes more.
1 ts p /3 g salt
4 . Remove the zucchini from the oil, blot on paper
Vi tsp /1 g ground black pepper towels, and adjust seasoning with salt, if necessary.
V* ts p /0.50 g freshly grated nutmeg Serve immediately.

2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed

1 . Mix the milk, butter, and eggs until thoroughly

combined. Corn Fritters
2 . In a separate large bowl, stir together the flour and M akes 10 servings

sugar. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture

2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg corn kernels, freshly
and pour in the milk mixture. Stir until a smooth cooked or thawed frozen
batter forms.
2 eggs, beaten
3 . Combine the spinach with the batter and season
2 o z/5 7 g Cheddar, grated (optional)
with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
4 o z/1 1 3 g all-purpose flour
4 . Heat a small amount of the oil in a medium saute
pan or cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Ladle 2 o z/5 7 g sugar

2 fl oz/6o mL of the batter into the pan for each pan­ 1 ts p /3 g salt, as needed
cake. Cook the pancakes for 2 to 3 minutes, until the
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper
undersides are golden brown.
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL oil, or as needed
5 . Turn the pancakes and continue to cook until golden
brown, 3 to 4 minutes more. Serve immediately or
1 . Combine the corn and eggs, and the cheese, if desired,
transfer to a holding pan to keep them hot for
in a small bowl. Combine the flour, sugar, salt, and
service.
pepper in a separate bowl and make a well in the cen­
ter. Add the corn mixture to the flour mixture all at
once. Stir just until a relatively smooth batter forms.

Pan-Fried Zucchini 2 . Heat about V2 in/i cm of the oil in a medium saute

pan or cast-iron skillet to 365°F/i85°C. Ladle 2
M akes 10 servings tbsp/30 mL of batter for each fritter into the oil.

2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg zucchini
3 . Fry on the first side until golden brown, 2 to 3 min­
utes. Turn once and finish frying on the second side,
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil
2 minutes more. Blot on paper towels, adjust season­
V2 o z/1 4 g salt ing with salt, if necessary, and serve while very hot.
4 o z/1 1 3 g all-purpose flour

1 lb 10 o z /7 3 7 g Beer Batter (page 522)

ch a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S 707
Vegetable Tempura Tostones: Slice the p l a n t a i n s i n / 1 cm thick and fry as
above. Press them to a thickness o f about ' A in /6 mm
Makes 10 servings
w ith a heavy, fla t-b o tto m e d object. Combine 8 f I oz/2 40
mL water, 1 o z/2 8 g salt, and 4 minced garlic cloves.
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL vegetable oil
Dip the plantain slices in this mixture. Shake o ff excess
8 f I o z/2 40 mL peanut oil water and deep fry a second time. Drain on paper towels
and sprinkle w ith salt. Serve immediately.
8 f I o z/2 40 mL sesame oil

2 chef’s potatoes, cut into strips

Vs to '/* in /3 to 6 mm thick

2 onions, cut into rings Vs to V* in /3 to 6 mm thick

2 carrots, cut into strips Vs to '/t in /3 to 6 mm thick

Ratatouille
Makes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g green beans, cut 2 in /5 cm long

20 shiso leaves 3 f I o z/9 0 mL olive oil, or as needed

1 lb /4 5 4 g lotus root, peeled and 12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-dice onion

cut into Vs-\r\/3-mm slices
3/ t oz/21 g minced garlic
8 o z/2 2 7 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
1 o z/2 8 g tomato paste
Tempura Batter (page 523), as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g medium-dice red pepper
20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Tempura Dipping Sauce (page 523)
1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice eggplant

12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-dice zucchini

1 . Combine the vegetable, peanut, and sesame oils in a
deep pan and heat to 330° to 340°F/i66° to 171°C. 8 o z/2 2 7 g peeled, seeded, and medium-diced tomato

2 . Lightly dredge the vegetables in flour, dip in the bat­ 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3) or
Vegetable Stock (page 265), or as needed
ter, and immediately fry them until crispy and white
or light golden brown. Work in batches as necessary, Salt, as needed
frying a single variety of vegetable at a time. Ground black pepper, as needed
3 . Drain the tempura on a rack lined with paper towels. V2 o z/1 4 g chopped herbs, such as
thyme, parsley, and/or oregano
4 . Serve immediately with the dipping sauce.

1 . Heat the oil in a large pot or rondeau over medium

heat. Add the onions and saute until translucent,

Fried Plantain Chips 4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and saute until soft,
about 1 minute.
M akes 10 servings
2 . Turn the heat to medium-low. Add the tomato paste
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed and cook until it completely coats the onions and
develops a deeper color, 1 to 2 minutes.
3 plantains, green and unripe
3 . Add the vegetables in the following sequence: pep­
Salt, as needed
pers, eggplant, zucchini, and tomatoes. Cook each
vegetable until it softens (2 to 3 minutes each) be­
1 . Heat the oil to 350°F/i77°C in a rondeau or fryer. fore adding the next.
2 . Peel the plantains and slice very thin on the bias 4 . Add the stock and turn the heat to low, allowing the
(about V16 in/1.50 mm). vegetables to stew. (The vegetables should be moist
3 . Fry the plantains, turning often, until they are gold­ but not soupy.) Stew until the vegetables are tender
en brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Work in batches if neces­ and flavorful. Season with salt, pepper, and herbs.
sary. Drain on paper towels and season with salt as Serve immediately.
soon as they are out of the fryer. Serve immediately.

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Braised Greens Braised Fennel in
Makes 10 servings
Butter
4 lb/1.81 kg collard greens or kale Makes 10 servings
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced bacon
4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg fennel
8 o z/2 2 7 g minced onion
6 o z /1 7 0 g butter
3 garlic cloves, minced
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL Chicken Stock (page
10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263) 2 6 3) or Vegetable Stock (page 265)
lt b s p /1 5 g sugar 2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice
1 ham hock Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed 4 o z/1 1 3 g grated Parmesan
2 tb s p /3 0 mL cider vinegar

1 . Cut the stalks from the fennel and trim the root
1 . Strip the collard leaves from the stems and cut into ends. Cut from the stem to root end to make halves
bite-size pieces. or quarters, depending upon the size of the bulbs.

2 . In a large saute pan, render the bacon over medium
heat. When the bacon is light gold, add the onions
and garlic and sweat until aromatic.
3 . Add the greens, deglaze with some of the stock, and
reduce by half. Stir in the sugar.
2 . Heat half of the butter in a medium rondeau over
medium-high heat. Add the fennel, turn to coat
evenly with the butter, and allow the fennel to
brown slightly. Add the stock and season with lemon
juice, salt, and pepper.

4 . Add the ham hock and the remaining stock. Season
with salt and pepper. Braise in a 350°F/i77°C oven
until tender, 30 to 45 minutes.
5 . Remove the greens and ham hock from the pan and
reserve. Add the vinegar to the juices and reduce the
liquid by half. Combine the reduced liquid back with
the greens and adjust seasoning with salt and pep­
per. Remove the meat from the ham hock and add to
the finished greens, if desired. Serve immediately.
3 . Bring to a simmer, cover the pan, and braise the fen­
nel in a 325°F/i63°C oven until it is very tender but
still holds its shape, 45 minutes to 1 hour. The liquid
should be nearly cooked away; if necessary, simmer
over medium heat until it has reduced.
4 . Remove the cover from the pan and sprinkle the Par­
mesan in an even layer over the fennel. Dot with the
remaining butter.
5 . Place the fennel, uncovered, in a 450°F/232°C oven
or under a broiler or salamander until the butter and
cheese form a golden crust. Serve immediately.

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
 vegetable recipes
Braised Red Cabbage Braised Romaine
M akes 10 servings M akes 10 servings

B tb s p /4 5 mL vegetable oil or rendered bacon fat 4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg romaine lettuce

4 o z/1 1 3 g medium-dice onion 2 '/2 o z /7 1 g butter

8 o z/2 2 7 g peeled, medium-dice Granny Smith apples 5 o z/1 4 2 g small-dice onion

8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine 5 o z/1 4 2 g thinly sliced carrots

8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL red wine vinegar 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 265), Chicken
Stock (page 263), or Vegetable Stock (page 265)
1 o z /2 8 g sugar
Salt, as needed
2 o z/5 7 g red currant jelly
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 cinnamon stick
6 o z/1 7 0 g slab bacon, rind removed
1 clove
and sliced Vs in /3 mm thick
1 bay leaf

B juniper berries 1 . Trim the romaine to remove any blemishes or wilted

2 lb /90 7g red cabbage chiffonade leaves. Trim the cores of any discoloration. Bring a
large pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the whole
Vegetable Stock (page 2 6 5 ) or water, as needed
heads for 1 minute, until the color turns bright and
'/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt the leaves are softened. Drain the lettuce, rinse in
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper cold water to stop the cooking, and drain again.
2 . To make individual servings, cut the romaine length­
1 . Heat the oil or bacon fat in a large nonreactive pot or wise into 10 equal wedge-shaped servings. Cut
rondeau over medium-low heat. Add the onions and away the cores. Roll up each portion into a cylinder,
apples and sweat until the onions are translucent squeezing out excess water as you roll. To make larger
and the apples are slightly soft, about 5 minutes. servings that can be sliced for service, remove the
larger outer leaves and arrange them to form a large
2 !. Add the water, wine, vinegar, sugar, and jelly. The
rectangle on a sheet of plastic wrap or parchment
flavor should be tart and strong.
paper. Remove the cores from the heads and arrange
3 . Make a sachet with the cinnamon, clove, bay leaf,
the leaves evenly over the outer leaves. Roll up as for
and juniper berries. Add the sachet and cabbage to
a jelly roll, squeezing to remove the water.
the pan. Cover and braise in a 35o°F/i77°C oven un­
3 . Heat the butter in a medium rondeau over medium
til the cabbage is tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Check
heat. Add the onions and carrots and sweat over low
regularly to be sure the liquids have not evaporated
heat until they are tender and starting to release their
completely. Add more stock or water if necessary.
juices, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the romaine in an even
4 . Remove the sachet. Season with the salt and pepper
layer. Add the stock and bring to a simmer. Season with
and serve immediately.
salt and pepper. Top the romaine with the bacon.
4 . Cover the pan and braise in a 350°F/i77°C oven until
the romaine is very tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove
the cover during the final 10 minutes of cooking time
to properly reduce the cooking liquid and brown the
bacon.
5 . Remove the romaine and bacon from the braising liq­
uid and keep warm. Degrease the liquid and adjust sea­
soning with salt and pepper. Reduce the liquid further
to form a sauce and concentrate the flavor, if necessary.
6 . Serve the romaine and bacon with the sauce on heat­
ed plates.

c h a p te r 22 » C O O KING V E G E T A B L E S 711
Braised Sauerkraut
Makes 10 servings
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL rendered pork fa t or vegetable oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice onion
7 o z/1 9 8 g peeled and grated Golden Delicious apple
6 o z/1 7 0 g grated chef's potatoes
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg Homemade Sauerkraut (page 593)
1 tsp /2 g caraway seeds
12 juniper berries
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Brown Pork Stock (page
2 6 4) or Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
1 . Heat the pork fat in a large rondeau over medium
heat. Add the onions and apples and sweat until ten­
der and translucent, 8 to 10 minutes.
2 . Add the potatoes and sweat until they appear
somewhat translucent, a few minutes more. Add
the sauerkraut, caraway seeds, juniper berries, and
stock and bring to a boil. Cover and braise in a
325°F/i63°C oven until the stock has nearly cooked
away and the sauerkraut has a good flavor, i to 1V2
hours. If the sauerkraut has too much liquid, place it
on top of the stove and reduce the liquid as
necessary.
3 . The sauerkraut is ready to serve now, or may be rap­
idly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
French-Style Peas
Makes 10 servings
2 o z/5 7 g pearl onions
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 shelled green peas
12 o z/3 4 0 g Boston lettuce chiffonade
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
3 tb s p /2 5 g all-purpose flour
1 . Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add the
pearl onions and blanch for 1 minute. Remove the
onions, rinse in cool water until they can be han­
dled, and remove the skins.
2 . Heat 2 oz/57 g of the butter in a large saute pan over
low heat and add the pearl onions. Cook, covered,
until they are tender and translucent, 8 to 10
minutes.
3 . Add the peas, lettuce, and stock to the onions. Sea­
son with salt and pepper. Bring to a gentle simmer
over low heat and return the lid to the pan. Stew the
peas until fully cooked and tender, 3 to 4 minutes.
4 . Blend the remaining butter with the flour and add
gradually to the peas in small pieces until the cook­
ing liquid is lightly thickened. Adjust seasoning with
salt and pepper if necessary and serve on heated
plates.
The po tato is one o f the most versatile vegetables. It is found in

n e a rly jv e ry menu category, as the main component of appetizers

souo||pentrees, and side dishes; it is also an important ingredient

in sich preparations as souffles, pancakes, and breads.

 potato varieties
P o ta to v a rie tie s d iffe r in starch and m o istu re con te n t, skin and fle s h color, and shape.
Sw eet p o ta to e s and yams, although n o t b o ta n ica lly re la te d to th e p o ta to , share several
ch a ra c te ris tic s w ith it and can be tre a te d in the same manner. Each cooking technique p ro ­
duces a m arke dly d iffe re n t te x tu re , flavo r, and appearance in p o ta to e s. Knowing the na tu­
ral c h a ra cte ristics o f each kind o f p o ta to and the ways in which a p a rtic u la r tech niq ue can
e ith e r enhance o r d e tra c t fro m these c h a ra cte ristics is im p o rta n t to any chef.

LOW M O IS T U R E /H IG H STARCH

P ota to es in th is ca te g o ry include Idaho or russe t (also known as baking or bakers), purple

po ta to e s, and some fin g e rlin g va rie tie s. The higher th e sta rch con tent, the m ore granular
and d ry a p o ta to is a fte r it is cooked. The fle s h is easy to fla k e o r mash. These po ta to e s, de­
sirable fo r baking and pureeing, are also good fo r fry in g because th e lo w -m o istu re co n te n t
makes the m less like ly to sp la tte r. Their na tural ten den cy to absorb m o istu re also makes
them a good choice fo r scalloped or o th e r en casserole p o ta to dishes.

MODERATE M OISTU R E AND STARCH

P ota to es in th is ca te g o ry include so-called all-purpose, boiling, ch e fs, Maine, and US 1. It

also includes red-skin, w axy yellow (e.g., Yellow Finn and Yukon Gold), and ce rta in fin g e r­
ling va rie tie s. P ota to es w ith m od era te am ounts o f m o istu re and starch ten d to hold th e ir
shape even a fte r th e y are cooked u n til tender. This makes the m a good choice f o r boiling,
steam ing, sauteing, oven roa sting , and as a com ponent o f braises and stew s. They are f r e ­
q u e n tly used in p o ta to salads and soups. M any chefs like to use w axy y e llo w p o ta to e s fo r
baking, pureeing, and ca sse ro le -style dishes because o f th e ir o u ts ta n d in g flavor.

HIGH M O IS T U R E /L O W STARCH

P ota to es in th is ca te g o ry include "new" (any p o ta to th a t is harvested when less than I V 2

in /4 cm in d iam e te r) and some fin g e rlin g va rie tie s. The skin o f new p o ta to e s is te n d e r and
does n o t need to be rem oved p rio r to cooking or eating. T heir n a tu ra lly sweet, fre s h fla v o r
is be st showcased by sim ple techniques such as boiling, steam ing, or oven roasting.

7H V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
 c r
o
i—
B oiled potatoes are a m o n g the sim ple st of p r epa r a tio n s , w ith a s u b t le , ea r th y fla v o r .
i—*•
In the a b s en c e of aro m atic or suppo rting f l a v o r s , attention m u st be fo cu sed on good
p
T E C H N I Q U E A N D C A R E F U L S E L E C T I O N A N D H A N D L I N G O F T H E POTATO I TS EL F. E A C H POTATO V A R I E T Y
CTQ
H A S A U N I Q. U E T E X T U R E A N D T A S T E O N C E B O I L E D . S O M E P O T A T O E S H O L D T H E I R S H A P E E V E N W H E N

BOILED U NT IL V E R Y TEN DER , AN D HA V E A SOFT, SM O O TH C O N S I S T E N C Y . O T H E R S H A V E A M E A L I E R

C O N S I S T E N C Y A N D A T E N D E N C Y TO B R E A K A P A R T W H E N F U L L Y C O O K E D . B O T H B O I L E D A N D S T E A M E D o
P O T A T O E S C A N B E C O O K E D TO A R A N G E O F D O N E N E S S : P A R T I A L L Y C O O K E D F O R S A U T E E D D I S H E S , F U L L Y P J

COOKED FOR PUREES, AND COOKED AND COOLED FOR SALADS. C+ -

boiling potatoes
M o d e ra te - o r h ig h -m o istu re p o ta to e s are a good choice fo r dishes w here th e p o ta to e s
are p re sen te d whole, since the y hold th e ir shape when boiled. L o w -m o istu re p o ta to e s are
p re fe ra b le fo r purees.
Scrub th e p o ta to e s or peel the m and rem ove any eyes and sp ro u ts. P ota to es may be
peeled b e fo re boiling; te n d e r-skin n e d fin g e rlin g s o r new p o ta to e s are usually prepared
unpeeled, called en chemise in French. If th e p o ta to e s are to be cooked whole, tr y to make
sure th e y are s im ila r in size. If necessary, cu t th e p o ta to e s in to regular, even shapes or
cook d iffe re n t-s iz e p o ta to e s in separate vessels.
Green spo ts in a p o ta to m ust be peeled away com pletely. The green color indicates the
presence o f a to xin called solanine, which is harm ful when eaten in large q u an tities. This same
to xin is pre sen t in the p o ta to spro uts and eyes; the y should be com p le te ly removed as well.
Raw p o ta to e s w ill o xidize and disco lo r a fte r the y are peeled, f ir s t tu rn in g lig h t pink and
eventually, dark gray or black. To pre ve n t th is d isco lo ra tio n , subm erge peeled o r cut raw
p o ta to e s in cold w a te r u n til tim e to cook. When possible, use the soaking w a te r to cook the
p o ta to e s so any n u trie n ts leached in to it are retaine d. However, p o ta to e s are be st peeled
ju s t p rio r to cooking.
To ensure th a t p o ta to e s cook evenly, s ta rt the m in a cold liquid, usually w ater, though
som e recipes sp e cify s to ck or m ilk f o r a special flavo r, te x tu re , or appearance. S alt is usu­
ally added to th e cooking liquid. If using salt, add enough to enhance th e p o ta to 's flavor.
Spices can be added to th e b o ilin g liquid as well; s a ffro n o r tu rm e ric gives bo ile d p o ta to e s
a golden co lo r and special flavo r. If parcooking, add s lig h tly m ore s a lt than if fu lly cooking
th e p o ta to e s. P ota to es should never be shocked in cold w a te r a fte r cooking. The p o ta to e s
w ill absorb w a te r as th e y cool and becom e unpalatable.
A p ro p e rly boiled p o ta to has a delicate arom a and fla v o r and a s o ft te x tu re . Boiled p o ta ­
toe s to be served as is should hold th e ir shape but s till be e xtre m e ly tender. Seasonings add­
ed to th e cooking water, as w ell as any a d ditiona l fin ish in g or garnishing ingredients, should
be a p pro pria te to the fin ish e d dish.
The eq uipm en t needed fo r b o iling p o ta to e s is sim ple: a cooking p o t large enough to
hold th e w a te r and po ta to e s, a s lo tte d spoon or colander f o r draining th e p o ta to e s, and
ho ld ing containers. S heet pans may be used to hold th e p o ta to e s in a single layer fo r quick
coo lin g or drying.

ch a p te r 23 » CO O KING POTATOES 715

 basic formula

Boiled Potatoes Enough cold liquid to completely

(10 servings) submerge the potatoes

4 lb/1.81 kg moderate- or high- Salt and other seasonings

moisture potatoes (weighed before
peeling and cutting), or Finishing and garnishing ingredients
3 lb 4 oz/1.47 kg prepped potatoes

m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
1. Place the potatoes in a pot. e x p e rt tips |
2. Add enough cold liquid to
cover them.
Potatoes can be prepped diffe ren tly, dependingon
3. Bring the liquid to a boil. the desired end result. The prep method used can also have an effect on flavor

4 . Reduce the heat to and texture of the finished product. Factors to consider include:

establish a simmer. S IZ E OF POTATO / PEELED V E R S U S S K IN ON / T Y P E OF CUT

5. Simmer to the correct

doneness. Other ingredients can be added to develop additional flavor. Add

6. Drain and dry the potatoes. at the appropriate time, usually after the potatoes have been boiled:

Serve immediately, puree, FRESH HERB S / GR OU N D S P IC E S / R OASTED G ARLIC

or hold fo r another use.

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
1. place the potatoes in a p o t o f an ap­
p ro p ria te size and cover c o m p le te ly w ith cold w a te r. Add
s a lt a n d /o r o th e r seasonings as necessary to th e cooking
liquid. S ta rtin g th e coo kin g process w ith cold liquid allow s
the heat to p e n e tra te slo w ly and evenly, g ivin g th e p o ta ­
to e s a u n ifo rm te x tu re w ith o u t ove rco o kin g th e e x te rio r
flesh . B rin g to a bo il and cook a t a sim m e r o r low bo il u n til
the p o ta to e s are done.
To te s t f o r doneness, ta s te a piece or pierce w ith the
tin e s o f a fo rk . If th e re is no resista nce , the p o ta to e s are
p ro p e rly cooked. If th e p o ta to e s are to be only p a rtia lly
cooked, th e re should be in crea sing re sista n ce as th e fo rk
is in se rte d deeper in to th e p o ta to .
Drain the p o ta to e s as soon as th e y are done and dry
the m to im p rove th e ir fla v o r and te x tu re . P o ta to e s can
be dried by re tu rn in g th e m to th e p o t and placin g th e pot,
uncovered, over v e ry low heat. Or spread the m o u t in a
single layer on a she et pan and place th e pan in a w arm
oven. P o ta to e s are s u ffic ie n tly d ried when stea m no lo n­
ger rises fro m them .
If th e p o ta to e s w ere cooked in th e skin, rem ove the
skin as soon as th e y are cool enough to handle. Use a p a r­
ing k n ife to rem ove eyes o r black spots. To hold p o ta to e s
fo r a s h o rt tim e (less than an hour), cover the m loosely
w ith a damp, clean c lo th and keep warm .

STEAMING POTATOES

Steaming can be used as an alternative When using a stovetop steamer, re­

to boiling. To properly steam potatoes,
prepare them as for boiling, taking care to
make even cuts or to select like-size whole
potatoes to cook in the same batch. The
potatoes should be arranged in even layers
on racks or in perforated hotel pans or in­
serts to let the steam circulate completely
and encourage thorough, rapid cooking.
Convection or pressure steamers are
good for steaming large quantities of po­
tatoes. They allow for the preparation of
batches as needed throughout a meal
period, and they are well suited to the
intense demands of a banquet or institu­
tional feeding situation.
member that the larger the potatoes, the
longer the cooking time and the more
liquid will be required. Bring the cooking
liquid in the bottom of the steamer to a
rolling boil before adding the potato-filled
inserts or tiers. The potatoes should be
arranged so that the steam can circulate
around them. Do not stack the potatoes
or overcrowd the tiers or inserts. Various
herbs, spices, or aromatic vegetables may
be added to the cooking liquid or directly
to the potatoes to allow the steam to carry
the flavor to the potatoes.

c h a p te r 23 » C O O KING POTATOES 717

 P U R E E D POTATOES A R E AN IMPORTA NT BASIC PR EPAR ATION. T h e P U R E E CAN BE B L E N D E D WITH MILK

A N D B U T T E R TO M A K E W H I P P E D P O T A T O E S , W I T H E G G Y O L K S T O M A K E D U C H E S S E P O T A T O E S O R P O T A T O

C R O O . U E T T E S , O R W I T H P A T E A C H O U X TO F R Y A S P O M M E S L O R E T T E . P O T A T O E S TO B E P U R E E D A R E F I R S T

C O O K E D B Y B O I L I N G , S T E A M I N G , O R B A K I N G IN T H E S K I N .

pureeing potatoes
Low- to m o d e ra te -m o istu re po ta to e s, such as russe ts and m ealy ye llo w p o ta to e s, make
th e be st purees. Have ready boile d or steam ed p o ta to e s th a t have been drained and dried
and th a t are s till very hot. H ot baked p o ta to e s may also be used.
In a d d itio n to s a lt and pepper, which are stan dard seasonings f o r pureed po tatoes,
many o th e r in g re d ie n ts may be added f o r special fla vo rs. A fte r th e y are pureed, the po ­
ta to e s may be fla v o re d w ith oil, b u tte r, cream, garlic, o r o th e r veg etab le purees. A ll ad­
d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts should e ith e r be heated to th e same te m p e ra tu re as the puree or at
room te m p e ra tu re . Choices include m ilk or cream, s o ft (no t m elte d) b u tte r, chicken or m eat
bro th , g a rlic, sha llo ts, green onions, horseradish, m ustard, cheese, o r purees o f o th e r veg­
etables, such as parsnips o r celeriac. Egg yolks or pate a choux are needed f o r duchesse
and L o re tte p o ta to e s.
A fo o d m ill or p o ta to rice r gives th e be st te x tu re f o r pureed po ta to e s. Use a handheld
p o ta to m asher fo r a coarser te x tu re . Pureed p o ta to e s may be blended w ith o th e r in g re d i­
ents by hand using a wooden spoon or w ith an e le c tric m ixe r fo r w hipped po ta to e s. Food
processors and blenders should be avoided to pre ven t the p o ta to e s fro m ta k in g on a gluey
te x tu re . A p a s try bag w ith s ta r a n d /o r plain tip s w ill be needed if th e puree is to be decora-
tiv e ly piped on to pla te s o r shaped in various ways.

718 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 pureeing potatoes
Q basic formula

Pureed Potatoes 12 to 16 fl oz/360 to 480

(10 servings) mL milk or heavy cream

4 lb/1.81 kg low-moisture 4 to 8 o z/1 13 to 227 g butter, soft

potatoes (weighed before
peeling and cutting), or 3 lb 4 Salt, pepper, and/or
oz/1.47 kg prepped potatoes other seasonings

m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
j. Cook the potatoes by ex p ert tips
boiling, steaming, or baking
until they are tender.

2. Dry steamed or boiled

Basic pureed potatoes contain milk, butter, salt, and pepper,
but there are many additional ingredients that can be added or substituted to
potatoes on a sheet pan in
suit your needs or taste.
a medium oven.

3. Puree the potatoes Milk is probably the most common liquid usedfor
through a ricer, food mill, making pureed potatoes. Try substituting some or all of the milk with one of
or sieve. the following to create a different flavor and texture:

4 . Add eggs, heated milk or BROTH (V E G E TA B LE , POULTRY, BEEF, OR V E A L ) / H E A V Y C RE A M / STOCK

cream, or s o ft butter, as
needed. Other COmmOn flavoring and seasoning ingredients include,
5. Adjust the seasoning as but are not limited to:
needed.
M IN C E D C H IV E S OR GREEN O N IO N S / CHO PPED HERBS SUCH AS PARSLEY,

6 . Serve or hold the potatoes R O SEM A R Y , OR SAGE / GRATED C HEESE / O L IV E O IL / PUREED VEGETAB LES

warm. SU CH AS CAR R O TS, B U T T E R N U T S Q U A SH , OR C E LER IA C / R OASTED OR S A U ­

TEED GARLIC

c h a p te r 23 » C O O K IN G POTATOES 719
 1. cook the potatoes by boiling, ste a m ­
ing, or baking u n til very tender. W arm th e m ilk or cream.
P o ta to e s m ay be peeled and q u a rte re d or cubed b e fo re
coo kin g to sh o rte n coo kin g and d ryin g tim e when b o iling
(see page 7 1 5 ) or ste a m in g (see page 717). To bake po­
ta to e s f o r use in purees, leave the m w hole and in th e skin
(see page 72 3). Season, pierce, and bake u n til very tender.
When th e y are done, im m e d ia te ly halve the m and scoop
o u t the fle sh . Use a clean side to w e l to p ro te c t your hands
as you w ork.
Push hot, drained, and dried p o ta to e s th ro u g h a
w arm ed fo o d m ill o r ricer. For b e st resu lts, th e p o ta to e s
m ust be h o t and th e e q u ip m e n t heated. P rop erly cooked
p o ta to e s should pass th ro u g h th e fo o d m ill w ith no re sis­
tance. Check th e bow l p e rio d ic a lly to make sure th a t it is
n o t g e ttin g o ve rfu ll. Do n o t use a b len der or fo o d p ro ces­
sor; th e te x tu re o f th e p o ta to may becom e soupy, sticky,
and unable to hold its shape. Large q u a n titie s o f p o ta to e s
may be run th ro u g h th e coarse die o f a g rin d e r d ire c tly
in to th e bow l o f a mixer.

m eth o d in d etail
2. add seasonings and any a d d itio n a l in g re ­
d ie n ts as desired or acco rding to th e recipe. Be sure th a t
o th e r in g re d ie n ts are a t th e c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re when
added. M ilk or cream should be a t or near a simm er. B u t­
te r should be s o ft. Season th e p o ta to puree c a re fu lly w ith
s a lt and pepper.
S tir or fo ld in such fla v o rin g s as pureed roa ste d garlic.
S tir w ith a spoon by hand or use th e paddle o f an e le c tric
mixer. Do n o t ove rw o rk; th is w ill release to o much starch
fro m th e p o ta to e s, g ivin g th e puree a heavy, s tic k y con­
sistency.

720 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 pureeing potatoes
3. to make duchesse potatoes,
blend p o ta to puree as th e recipe on page 7 3 7 sp e cifie s
and pipe even p o rtio n s on p a rc h m e n t-lin e d sheet pans.
P o ta to puree can also be m ounded o r piped on to serving
plates.
Pureed p o ta to e s may be held f o r service over a hot
w a te r bath o r in a stea m ta b le , covered d ire c tly on the
surface w ith p la s tic w rap. Do n o t hold purees f o r to o long,
o r th e q u a lity w ill begin to degrade.

4. bake duchesse potatoes u n til a

rich golden brown, as shown here. A good p o ta to puree is
sm ooth, lig h t in te x tu re , and able to hold its shape when
dropped fro m a spoon. It should be a c o n s is te n tly cream y
puree, w ith no evidence th a t f a t has separated fro m the
puree.
Purees to be used in dishes th a t are sub seq ue ntly
baked, sauteed, o r deep frie d may be re frig e ra te d f o r up
to several hours. Once th e fin a l coo kin g is com p le te d, the y
should be served im m e d ia te ly.

c h a p te r 23 » C O O KING POTATOES 721

 T h e c l a s s i c b a k e d p o t a t o is s e r v e d in i t s c r i s p SK IN a n d g a r n i s h e d w i t h b u t t e r , s a l t , p e p p e r ,

AN D PE R H A PS S O U R CR EA M AN D C H IV E S . W H E N P O T A T O E S A R E C O O K E D IN A N O V E N W I T H O U T A N Y

A D D E D L I Q . U I D OR S T E A M , T H E Y D E V E L O P A N I N T E N S E F L A V O R A N D A D R Y , L I G H T T E X T U R E . HlGH"

STARCH POTATOES LIK E ID A H O S OR RU S S E T S BECOME FLUFFY AND ABSORBENT. THE H IG H E R TH E

M O I S T U R E C O N T E N T O F T H E PO T A T O , T H E C R E A M I E R A N D M O I S T E R T H E B A K E D P O T A T O W I L L BE.

baking and
roasting potatoes
Baked p o ta to e s are o fte n served as is, w ith th e ir skins, b u t th e re are o th e r uses and p re ­
se n ta tio n s fo r them . The fle sh can be scooped fro m th e shell and pureed. This puree can be
served on its own o r re tu rn e d to th e h o llo w e d -o u t skin in th e p re p a ra tio n known as s tu ffe d
or tw ice -b a ke d p o ta to e s. When oven roasting, th e p o ta to e s are cooked in oil, b u tte r, or
rendered ju ice s fro m a ro a ste d ite m and cooked u n til brow ned on the ou tside and com ­
p le te ly te n d e r on th e inside.
L o w -m o istu re p o ta to e s are ge ne rally be st fo r baking, although yellow w axy p o ta to e s
also yie ld good resu lts. Low- o r h ig h -m o istu re p o ta to e s may be used f o r oven roasting.
Scrub p o ta to e s well. For a re la tiv e ly th ick-skin n e d p o ta to , a brush w o rks well. For new po ­
ta to e s, use a cloth. B lo t th e p o ta to e s d ry b e fo re placing the m in a pan, to prevent an excess
o f steam when the y s ta r t to bake. Pierce the skin in a fe w places to allow the steam th a t
builds up du rin g baking to escape.
Never w rap th e p o ta to in fo il b e fo re baking; th e re s u lt is sim ila r to steam ing. The skin
w ill not becom e crisp, and th e re is a no ticea ble fla v o r d iffe re n ce . For th e same reasons,
baked p o ta to e s cannot be prepared succe ssfully in a m icrow ave oven. Some chefs believe
th a t baking p o ta to e s on a bed o f s a lt or rubbing th e skin lig h tly w ith oil encourages the
de velopm e nt o f a crisp skin and a delicate, f lu f f y in te rio r.
For ove n-ro asted po ta to e s, scrub o r peel them and cu t in to the desired shape. Toss in
fa t (fa t and d ripp ing s fro m roa ste d m eats, oil, c la rifie d b u tte r, lard, goose fa t, and so on)
and season as desired w ith s a lt and pepper, fre s h o r d ried herbs, a n d /o r spices.
Evaluate the q u a lity o f the fin ish e d baked or roa ste d po tatoes. A p ro p e rly baked p o ta to
has very crisp skin and is te n d e r enough to mash easily when fu lly cooked. Serve baked
or ro a ste d p o ta to e s as soon as th e y are done. This assures the b e st possible flavo r, good
te x tu re , and o p tim a l service te m p e ra tu re .
E quipm ent needs fo r baking p o ta to e s are m inim al. The only tru ly e sse ntia l piece o f
eq uipm en t is the oven. P ota to es can be placed d ire c tly on the oven racks; the y can also be
arranged on she et pans, m aking it easier to move the m in and o u t o f the oven, p a rtic u la rly
when dealing w ith large q u a n titie s. Pureeing equipm ent, such as a p o ta to rice r o r a fo o d
m ill, is also needed if s tu ffin g the p o ta to e s. Flave holding and serving pieces available as
necessary. For ove n-ro asted po ta to e s, sheet pans or shallow ro a stin g pans th a t can hold
the p o ta to e s in a single layer are needed. Also needed are u te n sils f o r s tirrin g the p o ta to e s
as th e y ro a st and holding and serving pieces.

722 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S


Q basic formula
Baked Potatoes
(10 servings)
10 baking potatoes (about 6 oz/170
g each) or 4 lb/1.81 kg low-moisture
or yellow-flesh potatoes, scrubbed
Salt or oil to lightly rub on the
skin of the potato (optional)
Finishing and garnishing ingredients
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
1. Scrub the potatoes
and pierce th e ir skins.
( O ptional: Rub them w ith
oil or salt.)
2. Place the potatoes in a hot
oven.
3. Bake or roast them until
tender.
4. Serve or hold the potatoes.
baking and roasting potatoes
Roasted Potatoes
(10 servings)
4 lb/1.81 kg moderate- to high-
moisture potatoes (weighed
before peeling and cutting), or
3 lb 4 oz/1.47 kg prepped potatoes
Enough cooking fat to lightly
coat the potatoes
Salt and other seasonings
Finishing and garnishing ingredients
ex p ert tips
Additional ingredients can be added to develop more flavor.
Add at the appropriate time. Additional ingredients or garnishes for baked
potatoes are generally added after the potatoes have been baked, whereas
additional ingredients can be added to the potatoes prior to roasting to infuse
flavor.
O L IV E OIL / RAW OR R O ASTED GA R LIC / RAW OR ROASTED O N IO N S / CHOPPED
H ERB S, SUCH AS PA RSLEY, R O SE M A R Y, OR SAGE / M IN C E D C H IV E S OR GREEN
O N IO N S /G R A T E D CHEESE
ch a p te r 23 » C O O KING POTATOES 723
 1. to bake potatoes whole in th e skin,
scrub them , b lo t dry, and rub w ith oil or s a lt if desired.
Pierce the m w ith a fo rk or skew er to le t steam escape
as th e p o ta to e s bake. W hole p o ta to e s may be placed on
th e oven racks or on sh e e t pans. If placed on sheet pans,
tu rn th e p o ta to e s once du rin g baking because the side in
c o n ta c t w ith th e pan may becom e s lig h tly soggy and the
p o ta to e s may n o t cook as evenly.
Season the potatoes, pierce, and bake or roa st them
un til the y are tender. It takes about 1 hour fo r a 6 -o z /1 7 0 -g
p o ta to to bake a t 3 5 0 °F /1 7 7 °C . To te s t fo r doneness,
pierce th e p o ta to w ith a skew er or th e tin e s o f a fo rk . If
th e re is no re sista n ce when it e n te rs the flesh , the p o ta to
is done.
Serve baked and ove n -ro a ste d p o ta to e s im m e dia te ly.
If th is is n o t possible, th e y can be held, uncovered, f o r less
than an hour in a w arm place. However, th e steam tra p p e d
in th e in te rio r can cause th e crisp skin to become soggy
over tim e . S tu ffe d p o ta to e s may be prepared in advance
and held, covered, and re frig e ra te d . Reheat and brown in a
h o t oven ju s t p rio r to service.
NOTE: For oven roasting, scrub, dry, and then cut the
m eth o d in d etail p o t a t o e s in to a un ifo rm shape i f desired. Peeling the
p o t a t o e s is op tio nal, as some chefs p r e f e r leaving the
skin on f o r a d i f f e r e n t t e x t u re an d increased n u tritio n a l
value. A rran ge the p o t a t o e s in a single la yer on a sheet
pa n o r in a r o a s tin g pan. S t ir ove n -ro a ste d p o ta t o e s as
o f t e n as necessary durin g the ro a s tin g t im e to ensure
even browning. To t e s t f o r doneness, t a s t e a piece or
pierce i t w ith a fork.

724 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 baking potatoes en casserole
P otatoes en c a s s e r o le are baked in c o m b i n a t i o n w ith c r e a m or a c u st a rd . S c a llo p e d , au

GRATIN, AN D DA U PH I N O I S E POTATOES A R E A L L GOOD E X A M P L E S . F or DIS HE S P R E P A R E D EN C A S S E R O L E ,

P E E L E D A N D S L I C E D P O T A T O E S ( E I T H E R R A W O R P A R C O O K E D TO S P E E D B A K I N G T I M E ) A R E C O M B I N E D

WITH F L A V O R E D H E A V Y C R EA M , A S AU CE , OR U N C O O K E D CU STARD, AN D TH EN S L O W L Y B A K E D UNT IL THE

P OT AT O ES A R E E X T R E M E L Y T E N D E R B U T S E T W E L L E N O U G H TO H O L D A S H A P E W H E N C U T F O R S ER V I C E .

baking potatoes
en
Low-moisture potatoes, because of their tendency to absorb liquid, produce casseroled
potatoes that are very tender. Yellow-f lesh potatoes are also often prepared en casserole;
these have a slightly more noticeable texture and a golden color.
Scrub and peel the potatoes and remove the eyes. Thinly slice the potatoes or cut into
even dice. Thoroughly dry raw potatoes that have been held in water before combining
them with the other ingredients. Excess water can adversely affect the flavor and final
texture of the dish. Blot dry parcooked potatoes.
Have the liquid component of the dish (cream, custard, or stock, fo r example) hot be­
fore combining it with the potatoes. This allows the dish to reach cooking temperature
more quickly, thus shortening the cooking time; it also allows for the infusion of flavors
from ingredients like herbs and spices.
Salt and pepper are basic for any en casserole dish. Other spices are often required.
Many of these dishes call for one or more grated cheeses, such as Gruyere and/or Parme­
san. Additional ingredients may be used to introduce color, flavor, and texture. Common
options include herbs, mushrooms, mustard, and bread crumbs.
En casserole dishes are prepared in hotel pans or similar baking pans and dishes. Lib­
erally grease the baking pan or dish with butter or oil to prevent sticking. Additional help­
fu l—but not necessarily essential—equipment includes a mandoline fo r cutting evenly
thin slices of potato and a large offset spatula for serving individual portions of the dish.

c h a p te r 23 » CO O KING POTATOES 725

 basic formula

Potatoes en Casserole 24 to 30 fl oz/720 to 900 mL 2 to 5 oz/113 to 142 g grated

( 1 0 servings) liquid (heavy cream, milk, half- cheese or other topping (optional)
and-half, stock, or sauce)
3 lb 4 oz/1.47 kg low-moisture or
waxy yellow potatoes (weighed 2 or 3 eggs or egg yolks (optional)
before peeling and cutting), or
2 lb 12 oz/1.25 kg prepped potatoes

method
at-a-glance
1. Layer the sliced potatoes
in a buttered pan.

2. Add the heated cream,

sauce, or custard.
Use flavo rful liquids to develop additional flavor and texture:
BROTH (VEG E TA B LE , POULTRY, BEEF, OR V E A L ) / H E A V Y CREA M / STOCK
3. Shake the pan to distribute
the ingredients evenly and
cover loosely with fo il Additional ingredients can be added to develop more flavor.
Some should be added into the potato mixture, while others are used as a gar­
4. Bake the potatoes in a
nish or topping:
medium oven until they are
tender. R OASTED OR SA U TE E D GA R LIC / S A U TEE D O N IO N S / M IN C E D C H IV E S OR GREEN

O N IO N S / CHO PPED HERBS, SUCH AS PARSLEY, R O S EM A RY, OR SAGE / GRATED

5. Top w ith bread crumbs,
CHEESE
butter, and grated cheese
and broil briefly.

6 . Serve or hold the potatoes.

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
 baking potatoes en casserole
1. use a mandoline to produce very thin,
even slices of potato quickly and efficiently. Use low-
moisture or waxy yellow potatoes.
Parcook in the liquid called fo r in the recipe, if de­
sired. Simmer the potatoes until they are cooked halfway.
They should still have a slight crunch but be yielding to the
bite. If the potatoes are overcooked at this point, the re­
sulting dish will be mushy and will lack the distinctive lay­
ering when sliced. If the potatoes are undercooked in the
simmering liquid, the resulting dish wilt still be crunchy
after baking.

method in detail
2. layer the potatoes evenly (slight­
ly shingling them) in a buttered baking pan. Arrange raw or
parcooked potatoes on a slight shingle in single, uniform
layers, separating the slices so they will cook evenly. Add
aromatic ingredients and seasonings, such as sliced garlic,
cheese, or salt and pepper, to each layer for the best dis­
tribution of flavor (or infuse some into the cooking liquid).
Pour a small amount of cooking liquid over each layer.

c h a p te r 23 » C O O K IN G POTATOES 727
 3. pour the rest of the hot cooking liquid
evenly over the potatoes after assembly. Have cream,
sauces, and drippings very hot; custards should be heated
but not at a boil. Shake the pan gently to distribute the
liquid evenly between the layers. Add topping ingredients
now or after baking, as necessary. Many en casserole
dishes are referred to as gratins. The surface of the gratin
gradually browns and forms a crust.
Bake in a low oven (300° to 325°F/149° to 163°C)
until the potatoes are just tender and the top is golden
brown. This temperature for baking avoids curdling, es­
pecially with custards. A very creamy texture can best
be achieved by baking en casserole dishes in a hot water
bath.
If the top begins to brown too quickly, reduce the oven
temperature or cover the dish with aluminum foil. If the
potatoes are done before the top browns, place the dish
briefly under a salamander or broiler to brown once the
potatoes are tender.

Hi
method in detail
4. in a good potatoes en casserole, the potatoes
are moist and tender; they hold their shape when cut into
servings and placed on the plate. The sauce is thick and
very smooth, not runny, grainy, or curdled. The top should
be brown and crisp fo r extra flavor.
These dishes are particularly suitable for banquet be­
cause they are easily divided into servings. En casserole
potato dishes can be held throughout a typical service
period. Cover loosely with foil and hold in a warm place.
If necessary, cool and refrigerate. Slice the potatoes into
portions and reheat in an oven or brown lightly under a
salamander or broiler just before serving.

728 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 sauteing potatoes
H om e fr ies , potatoes A n n a , h ash b r o w n s , rosti , a n d L y o n n a is e potatoes a re pr epa red by

s a u t e in g . S a u t eed potatoes co m bin e a b ro w n ed a n d crisp exterio r w ith a t e n d e r , moist

interior . Th e cooking fat p l a y s a significant ro le in t h e flav o r of the finished dish , and

cho ices ran g e fro m the taste of A n n a -s t y l e or rosti potatoes co o ked in l i b e r a l a m o u n t s

of b u tter , to t h e m o re rustic flav o r of hash b ro w n s or h o m e fries sa u teed in l a r d , oil , or

D U C K FAT.

sauteing potatoes
The key to successful sauteed potato dishes is in preparing the potatoes so that they be­
come fully cooked just as the exterior has finished developing a good color and texture.
Moderate-moisture potatoes give the best texture and appearance to sauteed dishes.
Scrub and peel the potatoes, and remove the eyes. Cut the potatoes into even slices, dice,
julienne, tourne, or balls. If the potatoes are peeled and cut in advance, hold them sub­
merged in cold water until it is time to cook them. Drain and blot them dry on paper towels
immediately before sauteing to avoid splattering. To shorten the cooking time, partially or
fully cook the potatoes in advance by steaming or boiling. Drain and dry them as described
on page 717.
Different kinds of cooking fat may be used, singly or in combination, for the best flavor
in the finished dish. They include vegetable oil, olive oil, clarified butter, or rendered duck,
goose, or bacon fat.
Season the potatoes with salt and pepper during cooking. A wide range of herbs and
spices, vegetables, and meats can be combined with potatoes to produce a dish with a
special flavor or appearance. Among them are onions, shallots, and green onions; diced
green and red peppers; or diced bacon or ham. Finishing ingredients such as heated cream,
melted butter, heated sour cream, or grated cheese may be added to the potatoes during
the actual cooking process or after they have been cooked until tender.
Choose a saute pan large enough to hold the potatoes without crowding. Cast-iron pans
are especially good for potatoes because they can create a crust of exceptional crispness.
Spatulas, serving pieces, and paper towels for draining excess fa t may also be necessary.

c h a p te r 23 » C O O KING POTATOES 729

 D basic formula

Sauteed Potatoes Cooking fat (oil, clarified butter,

( 1 0 servings) rendered duck, goose, or bacon fat)

4 lb/1.81 kg moderate-moisture Salt and other seasonings

potatoes (weighed before
peeling and cutting), or 3 lb 4 Finishing and garnishing ingredients
oz/1.47 kg prepped potatoes

method
at-a-glance
1. Heat cooking fa t in a saute
pan.

2. Add cut potatoes.

To flavor and season s a u te e d p o ta to e s , t r y o n e o r a c o m b in a tio n
3. Shake the pan vigorously o f a n y o f th e fo llo w in g .
to coat the potatoes evenly
w ith the fat. T h e f a t u s e d f o r fr y in g th e p o t a t o e s w ill im p a r t s ig n ific a n t fla v o r . A n y o f th e

4. Saute the potatoes,
stirrin g or flipping them
frequently, until golden
brown outside and tender
fo llo w in g a re c o m m o n ly u s e d a lo n e o r in c o m b in a tio n d e p e n d in g on th e f a t ’s
s m o k e p o in t a nd t h e d e s ir e d fla v o r.
C LA R IFIE D B UTTER / O L IV E O IL / R END ER ED DUCK OR GOOSE FAT / VEGETABLE
OIL

inside.
T h e a d d itio n o f c e r ta in m e a ts is a ls o c o m m o n f o r s e a s o n in g s a u te e d p o ta to e s :
5. Season and serve.
B A C O N /P A N C E T T A

Herbs, spices, and aromatic vegetables, added at the proper moment, will add
flavor and beautiful color:

CHO PPED C E LER Y / CHO PPED GA R LIC / CHO PPED HERBS, SUCH AS P A R S LE Y OR

R O S E M A R Y OR M IN C E D C H IV E S / CHO PPED JALAPEN O S / CHO PPED PEPPERS

730 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 sauteing potatoes
1. scrub and peel raw potatoes
and cut, slice, orgrate them into the desired shape. If the
potatoes are held in water before cooking, drain and blot
them dry before sauteing. Some dishes may call fo r the
potatoes to be simmered until partially cooked either
before or after they are sliced or cut.
Be sure to use enough cooking fa t and coat the pan
generously to prevent the potatoes from sticking and
falling apart as they cook. The fa t must be hot so that the
crust begins to develop immediately. This crust assures
the proper color, flavor, and texture, and also prevents the
potatoes from absorbing too much fat.
Brown the potatoes on one side evenly before flipping
them over. S tir the potatoes or shake the pan occasion­
ally as the potatoes cook, to brown evenly. In general,
add garnishes or finishing ingredients when the potatoes
have almost finished cooking. For the best flavor and tex­
ture, serve sauteed potatoes immediately after they are
cooked. If necessary, however, they may be held fo r 5 to
10 minutes, uncovered, in a warm place.

method in detail
2. Sauteed potatoes should have a golden
crisp exterior and a tender interior. Properly sauteed
potatoes have a rich flavor from the browning of the pota­
toes as well as from the cooking fa t itself. Use seasonings
to bring out the flavor of the potatoes and garnishing and
finishing ingredients to further enhance the flavor by add­
ing their own flavors, textures, and colors to the finished
presentation.

ch a p te r 23 » C O O KING POTATOES 731

 F rench fries and s t ea k fr ies ,a s w e l l a s w a f f l e -cut, m a tch stick ,a nd s o u f f l e potatoes ,are

A L L D E E P - F R I E D P O T A T O E S . T H E Y S E E M S I M P L E TO M A K E , B U T M U S T B E D O N E C A R E F U L L Y IF E X C E L L E N T

Q U A L I T Y IS T O B E A C H I E V E D . M O S T D E E P - F R I E D P O T A T O E S P R E P A R E D F R O M T H E R A W S T A T E A R E F I R S T

B L A N C H E D IN O I L H E A T E D TO 3 0 0 ° TO B 2 5 ° F / 1 4 9 ° T O 1 6 3 ° C U N T I L T E N D E R A N D A L M O S T T R A N S L U C E N T .

They a re th e n d rain ed t h o r o u g h ly and h e ld u n t il j u s t b e fo re service. At t h a t time, t h e y

A R E F I N I S H E D IN O I L H E A T E D TO 3 5 0 ° TO 3 7 5 ° F / 1 7 7 ° TO 1 9 1 ° C .

deep frying
potatoes
Blanching ensures that the finished potato has the proper color, texture, and flavor and
that it cooks thoroughly without becoming greasy or scorched. It is especially important to
blanch souffle potatoes so that they puff adequately. Very thinly cut potatoes (e.g., match­
stick potatoes) can usually be cooked in a single step, without firs t blanching. Deep-fried
potatoes such as Lorette, croquette, and dauphine are made from a puree.
Low-moisture potatoes are best for deep frying. Scrub and peel them, and remove the
eyes. Cut the potatoes into even slices, julienne, batonnet, or other cuts. If the potatoes
are peeled and cut in advance of cooking, hold them submerged in cold water. Rinse the po­
tatoes in several changes of cold water if indicated, and drain and dry them thoroughly to
prevent splattering when they are added to the oil. Rinsing the potatoes in several changes
of cold water removes the surface starch and helps prevent the potatoes from sticking to ­
gether. Potatoes that are to be deep fried for such preparations as straw or matchstick po­
tatoes, in particular, should be rinsed so they don’t clump together as they cook. However,
potatoes used for deep-fried potato nests and cakes need the cohesiveness provided by
the surface starch and should not be rinsed.
Choose a neutral oil with a high smoke point for frying the potatoes. Deep-fried pota­
toes are customarily seasoned with salt after frying and prior to service. Condiments—
ketchup and malt vinegar are the most common—may be served with them.
Use either a frying kettle or a deep fryer. Electric or gas deep fryers are excellent for
doing a great deal of deep frying because they maintain even temperatures. They are also
put together in such a way that it is relatively easy to clean them and care for the oil prop­
erly. Lacking a freestanding fryer, use a deep kettle or pot, such as a stockpot, instead. Use
a thermometer to monitor and control the temperature. Once the correct frying tempera­
ture is reached, adjust the heat so that the temperature remains relatively constant. Other
equipment, such as baskets, tongs, spiders, and containers lined with paper towels, should
also be available.

732 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 deep frying potatoes
D basic formula

Deep-Fried Potatoes Enough cooking oil to completely Finishing or garnishing

( 1 0 servings) submerge the potatoes ingredients for service

2 lb 8 oz to 3 lb 8 oz/1.13 to 1.59 kg Salt and other seasonings

potatoes, peeled and cut to shape

method
at-a-glance
1. Blanch the cut potatoes in expert tips
300°F/149°C oil.

2. Drain them.
Potatoes th a t are deep_frie d from the raw state may seem
3. Increase the o il’s to be simple, but when prepared with care they can become a very important
tem perature to addition to textures and flavors of the plate.
375°F/191°C.

4. Fry the blanched potatoes

D iffe re n t cuts o f po tato will have different results. Thinner
cuts will be crisp throughout, while fatter or bigger cuts will yield a crisp exte­
until golden brown and
rior with a creamy interior. Some of the different cuts applied to potatoes for
flo a tin g on the oil's surface.
deep frying are as follows:
5. Drain them on paper
A L L U M E T T E OR M A TC H STIC K / SHOE STR IN G / W AFFLE CUT
towels.

6 . Salt them away from the

fryer.
Sait (and sometimes pepper) isthe most typical seasoning
for deep-fried potatoes. In addition to these, try applying different ground
7. Serve the potatoes spices or spice mixtures after frying to suit the profile of a particular dish:
immediately.
CAYEN N E / C O R IA N D E R / C U M IN

Add dry sprigs o f fresh herbs withthe potatoes. Frying

fresh herbs with the potatoes will infuse the oil and flavor the potatoes:

R O S E M A R Y /S A G E

c h a p te r 23 » C O O KING POTATOES 733

 1. scrub, peel, cut, and hold the
potatoes in cold water. Immediately before cooking, rinse
them several times in cold water, if indicated, and drain
thoroughly. Blot dry. Heat the oil to 300° to 325°F/149°
to 163°C. Blanch the potatoes until they are nearly
cooked through but still relatively uncolored. Remove the
potatoes from the fryer and spread them into a thin layer
on a sheet pan.
Blanched potatoes may be held, covered and refriger­
ated, for up to several hours before finishing the cooking
process. They may be frozen for 1 month.

2. reheat the oilto35o°to375°F/ i77°to

191°Cjust before service. Deep-fry the potatoes until
golden brown on all surfaces and cooked through. Gently
stir the potatoes halfway through cooking so that they
brown evenly. L ift them from the cooking oil with a basket
or spider and allow any excess oil to drain back into the
fryer.
Transfer to a pan lined with paper toweling to blot
away excess oil. Add seasonings to the very hot fried
potatoes as desired. Be sure to do this away from the oil
used fo r frying, to prolong the life of the oil.
Evaluate the quality of the finished deep-fried pota­
toes. Bite into one o f the pieces. Very thin potatoes, such
as gaufrette (waffle-cut) potatoes, should be extremely
crisp, almost to the point where they shatter when b it­
ten. Thick-cut potatoes should have a crisp exterior and a
tender, flu ffy interior. Deep-fried potatoes cannot be held
successfully for more than a few minutes.

734 V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES , G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PA S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S

Whipped Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g russet potatoes
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, soft
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL milk, hot
2 fl o z/6 0 mL heavy cream, hot
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into large pieces.
Boil or steam until tender enough to mash easily
(see Note). Drain and dry them over low heat or on
a sheet pan in a 300°F/i49°C oven until no more
steam rises from them, 10 to 15 minutes. While the
potatoes are still hot, puree them through a food mill
or potato ricer into a heated bowl.
2 . Add the butter and mix into the potatoes by hand
or with the paddle or wire whip of an electric mixer
until just incorporated. Add the milk, cream, salt,
and pepper and whisk by hand or whip in the mixer
until smooth and light.
3 . Spoon the potatoes onto heated plates or transfer
them to a piping bag and pipe into the desired
shapes. Serve immediately.
NOTE: Alternatively, potatoes may be baked in their skins
until very tender. Halve the potatoes and scoop out the
flesh while it is still very hot.
potato recipes
Duchesse Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g russet potatoes
4 o z/5 7 g butter, soft
4 egg yolks, beaten
Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed
1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into large pieces.
Boil or steam until tender enough to mash easily.
Drain and dry them over low heat or on a sheet pan
in a 3oo°F/i49°C oven until no more steam rises
from them, 10 to 15 minutes. While the potatoes are
still hot, puree them through a food mill or potato
ricer into a heated bowl.
2 . Add the butter and egg yolks. Season with nutmeg,
salt, and pepper and mix well by hand or with the
wire whip of an electric mixer.
3 . Transfer the mixture to a piping bag and pipe the
mixture into the desired shapes on a sheet pan lined
with parchment paper. Brush lightly with egg wash.
4 . Bake in a 375°F/i9i°C oven until the potatoes are
golden brown and heated through, 10 to 12 minutes.
Serve immediately.
chapter 23 » C OOK I N G P OTATOES 735
Boiled Parsley Potatoes

Boiled Parsley
Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg russet potatoes
Salt, as needed
2 o z/5 7 g butter
1 o z/2 8 g chopped parsley
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Scrub the potatoes and peel, if desired. Cut them
into 2-in/5-cm cubes or wedges (hold potatoes in
cold water until ready to cook to prevent discolor­
ation).
2 . Place the potatoes in a large pot with enough cold
water to cover them by about 2 in/5 cm - Add salt and
gradually bring the water to a simmer over medium
heat. Cover and simmer until the potatoes are easily
pierced with a fork, about 15 minutes. Drain the po­
tatoes, return them to the pot, and dry them briefly
over low heat until steam no longer rises, 10 to 15
minutes.
3 . Heat the butter in a saute pan over medium heat.
Add the potatoes, rolling and tossing to coat them
evenly with butter, and heat through.
4 . Add the parsley and season with salt and pepper.
Serve immediately.
potato recipes
Baked Potatoes with
Deep-Fried Onions
Makes 10 servings
10 russet potatoes
1 tb sp /1 5 mL vegetable oil
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL sour cream
2 tb sp /6 g minced chives
10 o z /2 8 4 g Deep-Fried Onions (page 581)
1 . Scrub and blot dry the potatoes. Pierce the skins in
a few places with a paring knife or kitchen fork. Rub
the potatoes lightly with oil, and season with salt and
pepper.
2 . Bake on a sheet pan in a 425°F/2i8°C oven until very
tender and cooked through, about 1 hour, turning
once.
3 . Meanwhile, blend the sour cream and chives. Season
with salt and pepper.
4 . Pinch or cut open the potatoes, place 2 tbsp/30 mL
of sour cream on the top, and top with the onions.
Serve immediately.
Chapter 23 » CO O K I N G P OTATOES 737
Roasted Tuscan-Style Glazed Sweet
Potatoes Potatoes
Makes 10 servings Makes 10 servings

3 lb 5 oz/1.50 kg chef's potatoes 4 lb/1.81 kg sweet potatoes

3 fl o z/9 0 mL olive oil 8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice pineapple

2 o z/5 7 g thinly sliced garlic 2 f 1o z/6 0 mL lemon juice

3 tb sp /9 g chopped rosemary 8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar

3 tb sp /9 g chopped sage 1 ts p /2 g ground cinnamon

Salt, as needed 2 o z/5 7 g butter

Ground black pepper, as needed Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into large dice.
Starting with cold water, bring the potatoes to a boil
over medium-high heat. Simmer for about 10 min­
utes, until the potatoes are partially cooked. Drain,
being careful not to break the potatoes.
2 . Heat a large saute pan over medium heat and pour
in the oil. Add the potatoes and brown on all sides.
When they are browned, remove the potatoes and
drain off all but 3 tbsp/45 mL of the oil.
3 . Reduce the heat to low and add the garlic, rosemary,
and sage. Cook until the garlic is lightly browned
and the herbs are crisp. Toss the mixture with the
potatoes.
4 . Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
NOTE: Instead of parcooking the potatoes in boiling water,
the potatoes may be tossed with 2 f I oz/60 mL olive oil,
2 tbsp/18gminced garlic, 2 tbsp/6gminced rosemary,
2 tbsp/6 g chopped sage, salt, and pepper, transferred
to an oiled sheet pan, and roasted in a 375°F/191°C oven
until tender and brown, 40 to 45 minutes.
1 . Scrub and blot dry the potatoes. Pierce the skins
in a few places with a paring knife or kitchen fork.
Arrange in a single layer on a sheet pan. Bake in
a 425°F/2i8°C oven until very tender and cooked
through, 45 to 50 minutes, turning once.
2 . Combine the pineapple, lemon juice, sugar, cin­
namon, butter, salt, and pepper in a saucepan and
bring to a simmer while the sweet potatoes are bak­
ing. Continue to cook until lightly thickened; keep
warm.
3 . As soon as the potatoes are cool enough to handle,
peel them and cut into slices or large chunks. Ar­
range them on a sheet pan. Pour the glaze over them
and bake in a 350°F/i77°C oven until very hot, about
10 minutes. Serve immediately.
Mashed Sweet
Potatoes with Ginger
Makes 10 servings

3 lb /1.36 kg sweet potatoes

2 o z/5 7 g butter

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL heavy cream, hot

I V 2 ts p /4 .5 0 g minced ginger

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S

1 . Scrub and blot dry the potatoes. Pierce the skins in a
few places with a paring knife or kitchen fork.
2 . Bake on a rack in a 425°F/2i8°C oven until very ten­
der and cooked through, about 45 minutes.
3 . Halve the potatoes, scoop out the flesh while still
hot, and puree the flesh through a food mill or
potato ricer into a heated bowl.
4 . Combine the butter, cream, and ginger in a small
sauce pot and bring to a simmer. Pour over the pu­
reed sweet potatoes and stir gently until the mixture
is homogenous. Season with salt and pepper. Serve
immediately.
Potatoes au Gratin
( G r a t i n D a u p h i n o i s e )
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 4 o z/1.47 kg chef’s potatoes
5 garlic cloves
1 q t/9 6 0 mL milk
Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL heavy cream
4 o z /1 13 g butter, cut into small pieces
1 . Scrub, peel, and thinly slice the potatoes using a
mandoline or electric slicer.
2 . Put the garlic in a medium saucepan with the milk
and bring to a boil. Season the milk with nutmeg,
salt, and pepper and add the sliced potatoes.
3 . Bring the milk to a simmer at i8o°F/82°C and cook
the potatoes until cooked halfway, 8 to 10 minutes,
taking care that the milk does not boil over. Discard
the garlic.
4 . Transfer the potatoes and milk to a buttered hotel
pan, pour the cream over the top, and dot with the
butter.
5 . Bake in a 375°F/i9i°C oven until golden brown and
the milk has been absorbed, about 45 minutes.
potato recipes
□ . Allow the potatoes to rest for 10 to 15 minutes before
slicing into servings.
NOTE: For a traditional scalloped potato dish, the sliced
potatoes may be shingled in the hotel pan. Before
baking, layer with 4 to 5 oz/113 to 142 g grated Cheddar
and then top with an additional 5 oz/142 ggrated
Cheddar. Cover the pan with foil for 35 minutes. Uncover
and allow the cheese to brown lightly.
Lyonnaise Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg chef's potatoes
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
1 lb /4 5 4 g sliced onions
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
3 tb sp /9 g chopped parsley
1 . Scrub, peel, and slice the potatoes. Cook them in a
large stockpot of boiling salted water until partially
cooked, 6 to 8 minutes. Drain and dry them over low
heat or on a sheet pan in a 300°F/i49°C oven until
no more steam rises from them, 5 to 10 minutes.
2 . Heat the oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medi-
um-high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring
frequently, until lightly browned, 7 to 8 minutes.
Remove the onions from the pan and reserve.
3 . Add the potatoes to the oil and season with salt and
pepper. Continue to saute over medium-high heat,
stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are browned
well on all sides and tender to the bite, 5 to 7 min­
utes. Add back the onions. Garnish with the parsley
and serve immediately.
chapter 23 » CO O K I N G P OTATOES 739
 Chateau Potatoes Hash Brown Potatoes
Makes 10 servings Makes 10 servings

4 lb/1.81 kg chef's or waxy yellow potatoes 4 lb/1.81 kg chef’s potatoes

2 tb sp /3 0 mL clarified butter or oil 2 fl o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil

'A o z/1 4 g chopped parsley Salt, as needed

Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed 2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley

1 . Scrub the potatoes and peel if desired. Cut them into 1 . Scrub and peel the potatoes. Cook them in a large
equal-size tourne, about the size of an olive (hold stockpot of boiling salted water until partially
potatoes in cold water until ready to cook to prevent cooked, 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the size of
discoloration). Rinse, drain, and dry thoroughly. the potatoes. Drain and dry them over low heat or

2 . Heat the clarified butter in a saute pan over medium on a sheet pan in a 300°F/i49°C oven, 5 to 10 min­

heat. Add the potatoes and saute until tender with a utes. Cut the potatoes into slices, small or medium

golden exterior, 8 to 10 minutes. dice, or grate them.

3 . Sprinkle with parsley and season with salt and pep­
per. Serve immediately.
2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium-
high heat. Add the potatoes and season with salt and
pepper.
3 . Saute the potatoes until they are fully cooked and
well browned on all sides. Garnish with the parsley

Delmonico Potatoes and serve immediately.

Makes 10 servings

5 lb /2.27 kg chef’s potatoes

2 tb sp /3 0 mL clarified butter

2 o z/5 7 g whole butter

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley

3 tb s p /4 5 mL lemon juice

1 . Scrub and peel the potatoes. Use a parisienne scoop

to shape the potatoes into large balls.
2 . Cook the potatoes by boiling or steaming in a me­
dium stockpot or convection steamer until almost
tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain and dry them over low
heat or on a sheet pan in a 300^/149 °C oven until
no more steam rises from them, 5 to 10 minutes.
3 . Heat the clarified butter in a large saute pan over
high heat. Add the potatoes and saute until cooked
through and light golden brown. Add the whole
butter and melt. Season with salt and pepper.
4 . Sprinkle the potatoes with the parsley and lemon
juice and serve immediately.

740 V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES , G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S

Potato Pancakes
Makes 10 servings
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg russet potatoes
8 o z/2 2 7 g coarsely grated onion,
with extra liquid squeezed out
1 tb sp /9 g crushed garlic
2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley
2 tb sp /6 g minced chives
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1 tb sp /7 g all-purpose flour
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL vegetable oil
1 . Scrub, peel, and coarsely grate the potatoes. Com­
bine them with the onions, garlic, parsley, chives,
eggs, and flour. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . Heat 3 tbsp/45 mLof the oil in a large skillet over
medium heat. Add about 2 tbsp/30 mL of the potato
mixture to the pan and flatten with a spoon to form
a galette (2 to 3 in/5 to 8 cm in diameter).
3 . Cook until golden on one side, then turn to brown
the other side, about 6 minutes per side.
4 . Drain on paper towels and serve immediately.
potato recipes
Potato katkes
Makes 10 servings
3 lb /1.36 kg russet potatoes
1 lb /4 5 4 g onions
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 o z/2 8 g bread flour
1 o z/2 8 g matzo meal
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
16 fl o z /4 8 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
1 . Scrub the potatoes. Grind or grate the potatoes and
onions together with a food processor or by hand.
2 . Wring the grated potatoes and onions in cheesecloth
to remove excess moisture. Transfer to a bowl and
add the eggs, flour, and matzo meal. Season with salt
and pepper.
3 . Heat V4 in/6 mm oil in a heavy cast-iron skillet to
350°F/i77°C. Drop about 2 tbsp/30 mL of the potato
mixture into the hot oil. Brown on the first side for
about 3 minutes. Turn them once and brown on the
second side, another 2 to 3 minutes. If necessary, the
pancakes may be finished in a 375°F/i9i°C oven until
browned and crisp.
Blot the pancakes on paper towels and serve
immediately.
chapter 23 » C O O K IN G POTATOES 743
 Potatoes Anna
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg chef's potatoes
2'A f 1o z/7 5 mL melted clarified butter, or as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Scrub, peel, and trim the potatoes into uniform cyl­
inders. Thinly slice them using a mandoline or elec­
tric slicer.
2 . Liberally brush a sautoir or cast-iron skillet with
Makes 10 servings
butter. Arrange the potato slices in concentric rings.
Lightly brush each layer with butter and season with
salt and pepper.
3 . Cover the potatoes and cook them on the stovetop
over medium heat until the bottom layer is brown,
about 8 minutes. Turn the potato cake upside down
and brown the other side, about 6 to 8 minutes.
4 . Place the pan in a 400°F/204°C oven and bake until
the potatoes are tender, 30 to 35 minutes.
5 . Drain off the excess butter and turn the potato cake
out onto a platter. Slice into servings and serve
immediately.
Macaire Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg russet potatoes
Salt, as needed
2 o z/5 7 g butter
Ground black pepper, as needed
le g g
2 tb s p /3 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
1 . Scrub and blot dry the potatoes. Season with salt.
Pierce the skins in a few places with a paring knife
or kitchen fork.
2 . Bake on the rack in a 425°F/2i8°C oven until very
tender and cooked through, about 1 hour.
744 V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES , G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A ST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
3 . Halve the potatoes and scoop out the flesh while still
very hot into a heated bowl. Mash the potatoes, butter,
salt, pepper, and egg together with a fork or wooden
spoon until evenly blended. Shape into cakes.
4 . Heat the clarified butter in a large saute pan over
medium-high heat. Working in batches, saute the
cakes until golden on both sides and very hot, 2 to 3
minutes per side. Serve immediately.
Rosti Potatoes
4 lb/1.81 kg russet potatoes
4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL clarified butter, or as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 o z/5 7 g whole butter, or as needed
1 . Scrub the potatoes and place them in a large stock
pot. Add cold water to cover by 2 in/5 cm- Bring
to a simmer and parcook until the potatoes are
cooked about halfway, about 20 minutes. Drain
and dry them over low heat or on a sheet pan in a
300°F/i49°C oven until no more steam rises from
them, 5 to 10 minutes.
2 . Peel the potatoes as soon as they are cool enough to
handle and grate them on the coarse side of a box
grater.
3 . Heat a rosti or saute pan over high heat. Ladle in
some of the clarified butter. Layer enough grated
potato in the pan to make a single, uniform layer.
Lightly drizzle the layer with a little additional but­
ter and season with salt and pepper. Repeat with the
remaining potatoes, butter, salt, and pepper. Dot the
outside edge with pieces of whole butter.
4 . Cook the potatoes until they are golden brown and
form a cake, 4 to 5 minutes. Turn the entire cake,
dot the edge with more whole butter, and cook the
second side until the potatoes are fully cooked and
tender and the crusts are golden brown and crisp.
Turn the cake out of the pan, cut into servings, and
serve immediately.
Sweet Potato Chips

French-Fried
Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg russet potatoes
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
Salt, as needed
1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into the desired
shape, most commonly Vs by Vs by 2 to 3 in/9 mm by
9 mm by 5 to 8 cm (hold potatoes in cold water until
ready to cook to prevent discoloration). Rinse, drain,
and dry thoroughly.
2 . Heat the oil to 275 to 300^/135 to 149°C in a heavy
deep pot or a deep fryer. Add the potatoes in batches,
and blanch until just tender but not browned (time
varies according to the size of cuts).
3 . Drain well and transfer to pans lined with paper
towels, scaling into servings if desired.
4 . Just before service, reheat the oil to 375°F/i9i°C
and finish the potatoes, frying until they are golden
brown and cooked through. Drain well, season with
salt away from the fryer, and serve immediately.
Sweet Potato Chips
Makes 10 servings
3 lb /1.36 kg sweet potatoes
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
Salt, as needed
1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the sweet potatoes into circles
1/16 in/1.50 mm thick using a mandoline or electric
slicer.
2 . Heat the oil to 325°F/i63°C in a heavy deep pot and
fry the potatoes in batches until golden brown, 1 to 2
minutes. Drain on paper towels and season with salt.
Serve immediately, or store uncovered in a warm
area.
potato recipes
Berny Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg russet potatoes
2 V i oz/71 g butter, soft
2 egg yolks, beaten
Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 o z/5 7 g chopped truffles
2 o z/5 7 g slivered almonds
2 o z/5 7 g dried bread crumbs
Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed
Vegetable oil, as needed
1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into large pieces.
Boil or steam the potatoes until tender enough to
mash easily. Drain and dry them over low heat or
on a sheet pan in a 300°F/i49°C oven until no more
steam rises from them, 10 to 15 minutes. While the
potatoes are still hot, puree them through a food mill
or potato ricer into a heated bowl.
2 . Add the butter and egg yolks to the potatoes. Season
with nutmeg, salt, and pepper and mix well by hand
or with the wire whip of an electric mixer. Fold in
the truffles.
3 . Combine the almonds and bread crumbs in a shal­
low container.
4 . Shape 2-oz/57-g servings of the potato mixture into
balls or pear shapes, as desired. Dip the balls in the
egg wash and then into the almond/bread crumb
mixture.
5 . Heat oil to 375°F/i9i°C in a heavy deep pot or a deep
fryer and fry the potatoes until they are an even
golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain briefly on paper
towels and serve immediately.
chapter 23 » CO O K I N G P OTATOES 747
Souffleed Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
4 lb 8 o z/2.04 kg Russet potatoes
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
Salt, as needed
1 . Scrub, peel, and trim the potatoes into uniform
cylinders. Slice them thin (Vi6 to Vs in/1.50 to 3 mm)
lengthwise using a mandoline or electric sheer.
2 . Heat the oil to 300°F/i49°C in a heavy deep pot. Add
the potato slices in small batches. Shake the basket
or pot carefully to prevent the potatoes from stick­
ing. When the slices blister, remove and drain them
in a single layer on paper towels. Hold for service.
3 . At service, reheat the oil to 375°F/i9i°C and add the
blanched potato slices. Fry until puffed and golden
brown. Drain well. Season with salt and serve
immediately.
Makes 10 servings
Croquette Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g russet potatoes
2 o z/5 7 g butter, soft
2 egg yolks, beaten
Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour
2 eggs combined with 2 tb sp /3 0 mL
milk or water for egg wash
5 o z/1 4 2 g bread crumbs
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into large pieces.
Boil or steam the potatoes until tender enough to
mash easily, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain and dry them
over low heat or on a sheet pan in a 300°F/i49°C
oven until no more steam rises from them, 10 to 15
minutes. While the potatoes are still hot, puree them
through a food mill or potato ricer into a heated
bowl.
V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES , G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
2 . Add the butter and egg yolks to the potatoes. Season
with nutmeg, salt, and pepper and mix well by hand
or with the wire whip of an electric mixer.
3 . Transfer the mixture to a piping bag and pipe it into
long ropes about 1 in/3 cm ' n diameter. Cut these
ropes into 3-in/8-cm lengths. Coat the potato cyl­
inders with the flour, egg wash, and bread crumbs,
following the standard breading procedure (see page
365). This can be done just before service or up to
4 hours in advance, keeping the croquettes covered
and refrigerated.
4 . Heat the oil to 375°F/i9i°C in a heavy deep pot. Deep
fry the croquettes until golden brown and heated
through, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain briefly on paper tow­
els and serve immediately.
Lorette Potatoes
4 lb/1.81 kg russet potatoes
2V i o z/71 g butter, soft
2 egg yolks, beaten
Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Pate a Choux (page
1160), at room temperature
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into large pieces.
Boil or steam the potatoes until tender enough to
mash easily. Drain and dry them over low heat or
on a sheet pan in a 300°F/i49°C oven until no more
steam rises from them, 10 to 15 minutes. While the
potatoes are still hot, puree them through a food mill
or potato ricer into a heated bowl.
2 . Add the butter and egg yolks to the potatoes. Season
with nutmeg, salt, and pepper and mix well by hand
or with the wire whip of an electric mixer. Fold in
the pate a choux.
3 . Transfer the mixture to a piping bag and pipe the
mixture into crescent shapes on strips of parchment
paper.
 potato recipes
4 . Heat the oil to 375°F/i9i°C in a heavy deep pot. Curried Sweet Potato
Carefully lower the strips of paper into the pot.
When the lorettes have lifted off the paper, remove Salad
and discard the paper. Deep fry the lorettes until Makes 10 servings
golden brown, turning if necessary to brown evenly.
Remove them from the oil, blot dry on paper towels, 2 lb /9 0 7 g peeled, large-dice sweet potatoes
and serve immediately.
2 lb /9 0 7 g peeled, large-dice russet potatoes

12 o z/3 4 0 g minced red onion

12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-dice mango

German Potato Salad 3 o z/8 5 g green onions, green and white

parts, sliced Vs in /3 mm thick
Makes 10 servings
2 tb s p /1 8 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)

3 lb 5 o z/1.50 kg Red Bliss potatoes 1 ts p /2 g ground cumin

10 o z/2 8 4 g bacon, minced 1 ts p /2 g ground cardamom

11 o z/3 1 2 g onion, minced 12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)

2 fl o z/6 0 mL red wine vinegar 1 tb sp /1 5g su g a r

3 tb s p /4 5 mL vegetable oil 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL rice wine vinegar

3 tb sp /4 5 mL Dijon mustard 2 tb s p /3 0 mL lime juice

1 tb sp /1 5 mL Pommery mustard Salt, as needed

16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263), warm Ground black pepper, as needed

lt b s p /lO g s a lt

1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper

1 . Place the sweet and russet potatoes in a large pot
and cover with cool salted water. Bring to a simmer
2 tb sp /6 g chopped chives
over medium heat and cook the potatoes until ten­
3 tb sp /9 g chopped parsley der, about 20 minutes.
2 . Drain the potatoes well and spread them onto a
1 . Put the potatoes in a large pot. Cover them with cool sheet pan. Air-dry the potatoes.
salted water and bring the mixture to a simmer over
3 . Combine the potatoes, onions, mango, and green
medium heat. Cook until the potatoes are tender, 18
onions in a large bowl.
to 20 minutes.
4 . In a medium bowl, combine the curry powder,
2 . Drain the potatoes and peel them while they are
cumin, cardamom, mayonnaise, sugar, vinegar, and
still warm. Slice the potatoes about Vi in/i cm thick.
lime juice.
Keep the potatoes warm.
5 . Add the dressing to the potatoes and toss to com­
3 . In a medium saute pan, cook the bacon over me­
bine. Season with salt and pepper. Serve or hold
dium heat until golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Re­
under refrigeration until needed.
move the bacon from the pan, leaving the fat. Cook
the onions in the rendered fat until tender, 5 to 7
minutes.
4 . Transfer the onions to a large bowl. Add the bacon,
vinegar, oil, mustards, and stock.
5 . Add the warm potatoes to the dressing and toss gen­
tly to combine. Season with the salt and pepper and
finish with the chives and parsley. Serve immediately.

chapter 23 » C OOK I N G POTAT OES 749

 Tortilla de Papas 4 . Whisk the eggs together well and reserve.

Makes 10 servings 5 . To make the artichoke and pepper salad, trim and
cut the artichokes into quarters. Place them into a
TORTILLA large nonreactive pot with the water, lemon juice,

1 lb /4 5 4 g chef's potatoes, cut into medium dice

bay leaf, thyme, and peppercorns. Bring to a simmer
and cook until the thickest part of the artichoke is
1 lb /4 5 4 g purple-skin potatoes, cut into medium dice
tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
8 o z/2 2 7 g clarified butter, plus as needed for frying
6 . Cool the artichokes to room temperature in the
1 lb /4 5 4 g Spanish onions, thinly sliced cooking liquid. Drain well and transfer to a large
3 lb 8 o z /1 .5 9 kg eggs bowl.

ARTICHOKE AND PEPPER SALAD

7 . Char and peel the red and yellow peppers according
to the instructions on page 639. Cut them into ba-
1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g baby artichokes
tonnets. Add the peppers, onions, olive oil, balsamic
1 g al/3 .8 4 L water vinegar, parsley, thyme, salt, and pepper to the bowl
272 f I o z/7 5 mL lemon juice with the artichokes. Keep warm.

1 bay leaf 8 . To make the tortillas, heat a small amount of clari­

fied butter in each of several nonstick medium saute
3 thyme sprigs
pans. Ladle about 6 oz/170 g of the eggs into each
10 peppercorns
skillet. When they begin to coagulate, divide the sau­
1 lb /4 5 4 g red peppers teed potatoes and sauteed onions between the pans.
1 lb /4 5 4 g yellow peppers Allow each tortilla to set and lightly brown, then
place the pan in a 400°F/204°C oven and cook until
8 o z/2 2 7 g onions, sliced
the eggs are just set.
2 tb sp /3 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
9 . Transfer the tortilla to a plate, top with artichoke
1 tb sp /1 5 mL balsamic vinegar and pepper salad, and garnish with crumbled goat
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley cheese and chervil.
l '/ 2 ts p /1.50 g chopped thyme

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

8 o z/2 2 7 g goat cheese, crumbled

3/ t o z/21 g chervil pluches

1 . Place the potatoes in a large pot, and cover with cool

salted water. Bring to a boil and simmer the potatoes
until they are half cooked. Drain and cool to room
temperature.
2 . Heat half of the clarified butter in a medium saute
pan over medium heat. Add the potatoes and saute
until browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove and reserve
the potatoes.
3 . Heat the remaining clarified butter in the pan over
medium heat. Add the Spanish onions and saute
until caramelized, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the
pot and reserve with the potatoes.

750 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

c o o * ? grains
andJramimes
Orijtof the most dramatic changes on the culinary scene in recent years
has been the rediscovery of grains and legumes. Everyday grains—
wheat, corn, rice— are appearing in many new forms, and beans have
become more popular as well. In addition, exotic grains such as millet,
Kamut, amaranth, and quinoa, and beans that were once rarely seen,
including flageolets and borlottis, are appearing more frequently.
 G r a in s a n d l e g u m e s a r e d r ie d f o o d s t h a t m u s t b e p r o p e r l y r e h y d r a t e d b y c o o k in g in s t o c k

O R W A T E R B E F O R E T H E Y C A N BE E A T E N . L E G U M E S A N D M O S T G R A I N S A R E U S U A L L Y C O M B I N E D W I T H T H E

L I Q . U I D B E F O R E B R I N G I N G I T TO A B O I L , B U T S O M E G R A I N S ( d U I N O A , F O R I N S T A N C E ) A R E A D D E D TO T H E

L I Q . U I D O N L Y A F T E R I T H A S C O M E TO A B O I L . S O M E S E A S O N I N G S A R E A D D E D A T T H E B E G I N N I N G O F T H E

C O O K I N G P E R I O D , O T H E R S A T T H E E N D . ( R E F E R TO S P E C I F I C R E C I P E S F O R D E T A I L S . ) A L T H O U G H G R A I N S

A N D L E G U M E S A R E O F T E N R E F E R R E D TO A S B O I L E D , T H E Y A R E A C T U A L L Y S I M M E R E D O R S T E A M E D . T h e

H I G H H E A T O F A B O I L I N G L I Q . U I D T E N D S TO T O U G H E N T H E M .

simmering whole
grains ana legumes
When a grain completely absorbs the cooking liquid, it is often referred to as steamed.
Grains may also be cooked in a quantity of liquid greater than they can absorb; once the
grain is fully cooked, the excess liquid is drained away.
Sort whole grains and legumes carefully before cooking. Spread out the grains or le­
gumes in a single layer on a sheet pan and work from one end of the pan to the other sys­
tematically to spot and remove stones and moldy beans. Put the beans or legumes in a
large pot or bowl and cover them with cold water. Any that flo at on the surface are too
dry for culinary or nutritional purposes and should be removed and discarded. Drain the
beans or legumes in a colander or sieve and then rinse them well with cold running water to
remove any dust.
Most legumes and some grains are soaked prior to cooking. Whole grains, such as whole
or Scotch barley and wheat and rye berries, benefit from soaking, which softens the outer
layer of bran. Pearl barley, which has had the bran removed mechanically, does not need to
be soaked. Imported basmati and jasmine rice should be soaked to remove excess starch
from the surface and prevent clumping. Domestic basmati and jasmine rice do not need to
be soaked. Steep fine- or medium-grind bulgur wheat in boiling liquid for several minutes,
until the grain softens enough to be chewed easily. Like bulgur, steep instant couscous in
hot stock or water. (While couscous is actually a form of semolina pasta, it is often thought
of as a grain because of its texture and appearance.)
Whether or not to soak legumes is a subject of debate among chefs. Some believe that
most legumes, with a few notable exceptions (lentils, split peas, and black-eyed peas), are
easier to prepare and produce a better quality finished dish if they are soaked, because
the skins soften slightly, allowing fo r more rapid and even cooking. Others find that soak­
ing has no benefit beyond shortening the cooking time, and that cooking legumes without
soaking results in a creamier texture. If you choose to soak, there are two methods com­
monly used: the long soak and the short soak. Except fo r time, there is no appreciable d if­
ference between them. If grains or legumes are to be eaten at room temperature or chilled
as fo r a salad, more cooking time is required to achieve a softer texture.

752 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 simmering grains and legumes
Whether or not to use the soaking water as the cooking liquid is also a subject of de­
bate. In addition to softening skins, soaking the legumes causes many of the oligosaccha­
rides (indigestible complex sugars that can cause flatulence) in the legumes to be leached
into the water. At the same time, small amounts of nutrients, flavor, and color are also
leached into the water. When the soaking water is used as the cooking liquid, the nutrients,
flavor, and color are retained, but so are the oligosaccharides.
Water, stock, and broth are common choices fo r the cooking liquid. Each type of grain
or legume absorbs a different amount of liquid. (See Cooking Ratios and Times for Select­
ed Pasta and Grains, page 1162, or package or recipe instructions fo r details.) Grains often
are cooked in an amount of liquid greater than they can actually absorb. This is especially
desirable for grains that should remain separate, fluffy, and very dry after cooking. The
amount of liquid required for legumes depends on the type and the age of the legume and
its total cooking time. Legumes should be completely covered by liquid at all times. It is
important to maintain this level throughout cooking. If the legumes are allowed to absorb
all the liquid, they might break apart or scorch.
Salt needs to be added to the cooking liquid at the beginning of cooking time for grains
or near the end fo r legumes to properly enhance natural flavors. Legumes and grains have
relatively subtle flavors that frequently require a boost from spices and herbs either dur­
ing or after cooking.
Grains are done when they are tender to the bite. They should be fluffy, with a sweet,
nutty flavor. Legumes are done when they are completely tender and creamy on the inside
but still retain their shape. They should be soft and easy to mash with a fork or spoon. Un­
dercooking legumes is a common mistake.
The equipment needs for simmering grains and legumes are quite simple: a pot large
enough to allow fo r the expansion of the grain or legume, a colander or strainer if draining
will be required, and holding and serving pieces.

SOAKING GRAINS AND LEGUMES

TH E LONG SO AK M E T H O D THE SHO RT SOAK M E TH O D

Place the sorted and rinsed legumes in a
container and add enough cool water to
cover them by 2 in/5 cm- Let the legumes
soak in the refrigerator for 4 hours to over­
night, depending on the type of legume.
Place the sorted and rinsed legumes in
a pot and add enough water to cover by
2 in/5 cm- Bring the water to a simmer.
Remove the pot from direct heat and cov­
er. Let the legumes steep for 1 hour.

c h a p te r 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S 753
 basic formula

Simmered Whole Stock or water, as needed Standard sachet d’epices

Grains or Legumes to cover grains or legumes or bouquet garni
(10 servings) throughout cooking time
Mirepoix or other
1 lb/454 g grains or Salt and pepper aromatic vegetables
1 lb/454 g legumes

method
at-a-glance
1. Soak legumes, if desired. expert tips Q
2. Combine the grains or
legumes w ith the cold
liquid.
To develop additional flavor, choose well-seasoned, flavor-
ful liquids to cook the grains or legumes:
3. Bring to a rolling boil.
S T O C K /B R O T H /W IN E
4. Establish a simmer
and cook to the proper
doneness.
Additional ingredients may be added to develop more flavor.
Adding them directly to the grains or legumes will infuse flavor throughout the
5. Drain and serve or hold in a cooking process:
warm place.
A R O M A T IC VE G ETAB LES / FRESH HERBS / W HOLE OR GROUND SPIC ES / GARLIC

For a healthier option: Use whole grains whenever possible, as

they have increased health benefits; brown rice, quinoa, wheat berries, kasha,
millet, and barley are just a few options.

754 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 simmering grains and legumes
1. cook the grain or legumes.
Combine the grain or legumes with the cooking liquid
and bring to a full boil. Reduce the heat slightly to a sim­
mer and cook the grain or legumes until done as desired.
Legumes and some grains need to be stirred occasionally
as they cook to prevent scorching. Check the level of the
cooking liquid and add more as necessary to keep the le­
gumes or grain completely covered.
To check fo r doneness, taste a grain or legume. Salt is
typically added to legumes after they have become ten­
der. Adding salt or acidic ingredients, such as citrus juices
or vinegar, earlier can toughen the skin if added at the
start of cooking time.
Drain the grain or legumes or let them cool in the
cooking liquid if they are to be used later. This keeps the
skins tender. In many cases, the cooking liquid is an im­
portant ingredient in the finished dish. Finish and serve on
heated plates or use in another preparation.
If liquid is not entirely absorbed, drain the grains in a
colander and suspend it over a pot. Cover the pot and let
the grain steam dry fo r a few minutes over low heat. Use a
fork to gently flu ff the grain, but do not stir; stirring may
cause starch granules to burst, creating a gluey texture.
Adjust the seasoning as necessary and appropriate with
salt, pepper, and other ingredients. Hold the dish in a
warm place, if necessary, until ready to serve.

c h a p te r 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S 755
 C u l in a r y g r a in s m a y u n d er g o s o m e ty p e of p r o c e s s in g (m il l in g ) b efo r e t h e y reach the

K I T C H E N TO P R O D U C E M E A L S A N D C E R E A L S . W H E N A W H O L E G R A I N I S M I L L E D , I T IS B R O K E N D O W N

I N T O S U C C E S S I V E L Y S M A L L E R P A R T I C L E S . D E P E N D I N G O N T H E G R A I N , T H E F I N A L R E S U L T M I G H T BE

Q .U IT E C O A R S E ( C R A C K E D W H E A T O R G R O A T S ) O R Q .U IT E F I N E ( c O R N M E A L OR F A R I N A ) . S O M E G R A I N S

A R E T R E A T E D B E F O R E M I L L I N G . B U L G U R W H E A T , F O R E X A M P L E , I S S T E A M E D A N D D R I E D B E F O R E I T IS

CRUSHED.

simmering and
boiling cereals
and meals
Cereals include various forms of oats, buckwheat groats, and rye flakes, as well as cracked
grains like bulgur. Meals include grits and polenta, farina, semolina, and cream of rice.
(Flours are even more finely ground.) Cereals and meals vary widely according to the way
in which they are processed. Meals and cereals may be ground coarsely or finely. The bran
and germ may be left intact or removed. Coarser cereals produce a dense, porridge-like
texture; finer grinds produce a smooth, even silky, texture similar to a pudding.
All cereals and grains should have a fresh, appealing aroma. As they age, the natural
oils can become rancid. Storing grains, cereals, and meals in the freezer can prevent spoil­
age. Some cereals and grains should be rinsed before cooking. Others must be dry so that
they can be added gradually to the cooking liquid.
Water, stock, or broth may be used as the cooking liquid, depending on the grain, the
dish, and the menu. Cereals and grain meals are generally cooked in just as much liquid as
they can absorb; each type of cereal or meal will absorb a different amount of liquid. (Refer
to package or recipe directions for details.)
Salt is generally added to the cooking water, and sometimes spices or herbs are added
as well. Taste and adjust the seasoning at the end of the cooking time. Grains tend to need
considerable salt; otherwise they taste flat.
The pots for cooking the cereal or meal can be small or large, depending on the amount,
but in general they should have a heavy bottom.

756 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S


basic formula
Simmering Cereals or
Meals
(10 servings)
1 lb/454 g cereal or cracked or
flaked grain or 1 lb/454 g grain meal
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
Bring the liquid to a boil or
combine the liquid and the
cereal or meal and bring
to a boil, depending on the
grain.
Add the cereal or meal to
the boiling liquid in a thin,
even stream. (If the grain
was added in step 1, om it
this step.)
3 . Establish a simmer
and cook to the proper
doneness.
Serve or hold in a warm
place.
simmering and boiling cereals and meals
Stock or broth, water, milk, or Aromatic vegetables such
a combination of liquids as onions or garlic, or sugar,
honey, or other sweeteners for
Salt and pepper sweetened preparations
Bouquet garni or sachet d’epices
ex p ert tips
To develop additional flavor, choosewell-seasoned,flavor-
ful liquids to cook the cereal or meal. Use each liquid alone or combine to
create different results:
S T O C K /B R O T H /M IL K
Additional ingredients may be added to develop more flavor.
Adding them directly into the grains or legumes will infuse flavor throughout
the cooking process:
A R O M A T IC VEG E TAB LE S / B O U Q U ET G A R N I / S A C H ET D ’EPIC ES / GARLIC
Depending on the desired result, sweeteners can be
added to achieve a different flavor:
S U G A R / H O N E Y / M A P LE S Y R U P
c h a p te r 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S 757
 1. depending on the grain, bring
the liquid to a full boil and add the cereal or meal in a thin
stream, stirring constantly, or combine the cereal and
liquid and bring to a boil. You may also add the cereal (po­
lenta) to cold water like you would for a slurry and then
bring it up to a simmer. This helps to prevent clumps from
forming. Salt and other seasonings may be added to the
liquid as it comes to a boil, along with any other desired
seasonings and aromatics.
Reduce the heat to establish a simmer and cook,
stirring as necessary, until done. Most cereals should be
stirred occasionally as they cook to prevent scorching.
Drag the spoon across the bottom of the pot and into the
corners to release the cereal or meal. The mixture will
thicken noticeably while cooking. Some meals or cereals
may become s tiff enough to pull away from the sides of
the pot and are relatively heavy in texture. Others remain
fluid enough to pour easily.

m eth o d in d etail
2. cook grain meals so that they are liquid
enough to pour when they are still warm. They should also
have a relatively smooth, creamy texture. Line a sheet pan
with parchment paper and spread hot polenta in an even
layer for quick cooling.

758 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 simmering and boiling cereals and meals
3. evaluate the quality of the finished
cooked meal or cereal. Polenta, porridges, and pud­
dings made from grain meals will be thick, with a coarse
to smooth consistency, depending on the cereal. Cold
cooked meals such as polenta can be cut into a variety of
shapes, then sauteed, grilled, baked, or pan fried before
being served.

CHEF'S NOTES ON POLENTA

Ingredients such as vegetables and cheese
may be added to polenta when it is to be
chilled and baked or fried. Vegetables are
cooked and then added to the grain im­
mediately after cooking while it is still hot.
Vegetables should be cut into small dice
and sauteed and seasoned appropriately.
Stir them into the hot, just-cooked polenta
before it is chilled. Spread the polenta into
an even layer, cover, and refrigerate until
it is thoroughly chilled. Cut as desired and
pan fry or bake to crisp the outside and
heat through before serving.

Chapter 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S 759
 O rig in a lly fro m th e M id d le E a s t, p i la f (a ls o c a lle d pilau) is a g r a i n d is h in w h i c h th e

G R A I N — U S U A L L Y R I C E — I S F I R S T H E A T E D IN A P A N , E I T H E R D R Y O R IN FAT, A N D T H E N C O M B I N E D W I T H

A H O T L i a U I D A N D C O O K E D , C O V E R E D , O V E R D I R E C T H E A T O R IN T H E O V E N .

pilaf
Pilafs may be simple dishes, composed of only the grain and cooking liquid, or they may
be quite substantial and include a wide range of additional ingredients such as meat or
shellfish, vegetables, nuts, or dried fruits. In a pilaf, the grains remain separate and take
on a nutty flavor from their initial sauteing, and have a somewhat firm er texture than when
boiled.
Rice is the grain most frequently used to prepare a pilaf, though other grains, such as
bulgur or barley, can also be used. If necessary, rinse and air-dry the grain by spreading it
out in a thin layer on a sheet pan.
A neutral-flavored vegetable oil is most often used to sweat the aromatics and saute
the grain, but a cooking fat that will contribute a flavor of its own, such as butter or ren­
dered duck fat, may also be used.
Stock or broth is generally the preferred cooking liquid. Bring the liquid to a boil in a
separate pot before adding it to the grain to help shorten the cooking time. To impart a
particular flavor and/or color, substitute vegetable or fru it juice or a vegetable coulis for
up to half of the liquid. If the juice is acidic (tomato juice, for instance), the cooking time
may need to be increased by as much as 15 to 20 minutes.
A member of the onion family, such as finely diced or minced onions, shallots, green
onions, garlic, or leeks, is usually required for a pilaf. In addition to onions, bay leaves and
thyme are commonly used for flavor. Other herbs and spices may also be added. Additional
vegetables may be added to sweat along with the onion. Other ingredients, including sea­
food, meat, vegetables, and nuts, are often added. (Refer to recipes for details.)
A heavy-gauge pot of the appropriate size, fitte d with a lid, is required to allow steam­
ing and to prevent scorching. Holding and serving pieces are also needed.

760 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 basic formula

Pilaf 28 to 32 fl oz/840 to 960 mL 40 fl oz/1.20 L stock, broth, or

(10 servings)
2 cups/480 mL rice, quinoa,
or similar whole grains or
1 lb/454 g orzo or similar
small pasta shapes or
14 ozto 1 lb/397 to
454 g barley or lentils
seasoned stock, broth, or water
for nonconverted rice or
28 fl oz/840 mL stock, broth,
or water for Carolina rice or
24 fl oz/720 mL stock,
broth, or water for basmati,
texmati, or jasmine rice or
64 fl oz/1.92 L stock, broth,
or water for wild rice or
water for brown rice, quinoa,
or similar whole grains or
32 to 40 fl oz/960 mLto 1.20 L
stock, broth, or water for orzo or
similar small pasta shapes or
40 to 48 fl oz/1.20 to 1.44 L
stock, broth, or water for barley
Salt and pepper
Bay leaf, thyme, or other herbs

Onions or other aromatic vegetables

m eth o d
at-a-g lan ce
Heat a cooking fat.
ex p ert tips Q
Add onions and sweat
them.
To develop additional flavor, choosewell-seasoned,flavor-
Add the grain and saute it.
ful liquids to cook the pilaf:
Add the liquid and
STOCK / BROTH
aromatics.

Bring the liquid to a

simmer.
Cover the pot and place it
in the oven.
Cook until individual grains
are tender.
Adjust the seasoning and
serve the pilaf.
Additional ingredients may be added to develop more flavor.
Adding them directly into the pilaf will infuse flavor throughout the cooking
process:
A R O M A T IC VEG ETAB LES / FRESH H ERBS / G A R LIC
For a healthier option: Use whole grains whenever possible, as
they have increased health benefits; brown rice, quinoa, wheat berries, kasha,
millet, and barley are just a few options.

ch a p te r 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S
 1. sweat the aromatic vegetables
in fa t in a heavy-bottom ed pot until softened. Add the
grains and saute, stirring frequently, until they are well
coated with fat.
Heating the grain in hot fat, known as parching, begins
gelation of the starches. This encourages the grains to
remain separate a fte r they are cooked. It also encourages
the grains to pick up the flavor of the aromatics.

2. heat the liquid, add it to the grains, and

bring to a simmer. Heating the liquid before adding it
speeds up the cooking process. Stir the grains once or
twice as they come up to a simmer to prevent them from
sticking to the bottom of the pot. Add any additional
flavoring ingredients at this point. Cover the pot and com­
plete the cooking in a medium oven or over low heat on
the stovetop.

762 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

3. when the liquid is fully absorbed (18 to
2 0 minutes fo r rice, other grains wilt vary; see the chart
on page 11 62 ), remove the pot from the heat and let the
pilaf rest, covered, fo r 5 minutes. Letting the pilaf rest al­
lows it to absorb the remaining liquid and steam. Uncover
and use a fork to flu ff the grains and release the steam.
Adjust the seasoning.
Evaluate the quality of the finished pilaf. Test a few
grains by biting into them. They should be tender but with
a noticeable texture, not so ft and mushy. In addition, the
individual grains should separate easily. There should be
no liquid visible in the bottom of the pot. Pilafs th at have
been overcooked have a pasty flavor; the individual grains
may be mushy or soggy and may clump together. Grains
that have been undercooked or cooked in too little liquid
are overly crunchy.

CHEF'S NOTES ON PILAF

Adding lentils to rice pilaf makes a heartier
dish that can be served on its own or as
the main component of a vegetarian plate.
Brown and green lentils are the only
legumes that are quick-cooking enough
to add to a pilaf. They cook in the same
amount of time that it takes to cook rice or
other similar grains, so the resulting pilaf
will be fluffy and dry, not mushy. Add any
other ingredients such as vegetables, meat,
or fish as you would to any traditional
pilaf.

c h a p te r 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S
 A C L A S S IC R IS O T T O IS A R IC H , C R E A M Y D IS H W I T H N E A R L Y A P O R R ID G E - L IK E C O N S IS T E N C Y , Y E T EACH

G R A IN OF RICE R E T A IN S A D IS T IN C T B ITE . In I T A L I A N R I S O T T O , T H E R I C E IS P A R C H E D A S I N T H E P I L A F

M E T H O D , B U T T H E L I Q U I D IS A D D E D A N D A B S O R B E D G R A D U A L L Y W H I L E T H E G R A I N IS S T I R R E D A L M O S T

C O N S T A N T L Y . T h e STARCH SL O W LY R E L E A S E S D U R IN G TH E CO O K IN G PR O C ES S, PR O D U C IN G A C R E A M Y

TEXTURE.

risotto
Grated cheese is often included, and vegetables, meats, or fish may be added to create a
risotto th at can be served as an appetizer or main course. Although risotto's preparation
is relatively lengthy and requires constant attention, there are ways to streamline the pro­
cess, making it suitable for restaurant service.
Risotto is traditionally made with special Italian varieties of medium-grain round rice.
The best known of these is Arborio, but other varieties include Vialone Nano and Carn-
aroli. Other grains, including other long-grain or brown rices, barley, wheat berries, or small
pasta shapes, may also be prepared with this method, but the quality o f the finished dish is
not the same as a risotto made with an Italian medium-grain rice. The cooking tim e will be
longer fo r brown rice and whole grains, and the amount of liquid required may be greater.
The cooking liquid most often suggested fo r risotto is a high-quality stock or broth.
Measure the appropriate quantity of stock or broth, season it if necessary, and bring to a
simmer before starting to cook. Wine may replace a portion of the stock or broth in some
recipes. Simmering the stock firs t shortens the risotto's cooking tim e somewhat and pro­
vides an opportunity to add ingredients to infuse the broth with flavor and color. Opinions
d iffe r regarding whether wine should be added early in the cooking tim e or nearer the end.
Some chefs prefer to combine the stock and wine and bring them to a simmer together, to
cook away the harsh flavor o f raw wine and improve the dish's taste.
Finely minced leeks, shallots, or onions are usually included in a risotto. Other aromatic
vegetables, including garlic, mushrooms, fennel, carrots, or celery, may be added to some
dishes. They should be finely cut or thinly sliced to release their flavors fully. Spices such
as saffron and fresh herbs may also be added.
Butter contributes a sweet, rich flavor to a risotto. Other fats and oils, especially olive
oil, may also be used. Cheese, usually Parmesan or Romano, should be added as close to
service tim e as possible to assure the best flavor. M eat, seafood, fish, poultry, or vegeta­
bles may be included.
A wide, heavy-gauge saucepan or sautoir is best for making risotto. Use a spoon, p ref­
erably wooden or heat-proof silicone, fo r stirring, and if the risotto is to be cooled and
finished later, use a sheet pan or similar wide shallow pan fo r rapid cooling.

764 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S


D basic formula
Risotto
(10 servings)
2 cups/480 mL Arborio or
other medium- to short-grain
white or brown rice or
1 lb/454 g orzo or similar
small pasta shapes or
m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
Heat a cooking fat.
2. Add onion and other
aromatics.
Add the rice and cook it
until it is glazed.
Add the simmering liquid in
three parts; s tir constantly
as the rice absorbs the
liquid.
Add the wine, if used, as
the fina l addition of liquid.
6 . A djust the seasoning and
serve the risotto.
risotto
1 lb/454 gfideo or (Optional: Replace up to 20% of the
similar thin noodles cooking liquid with dry white wine)
l'/z to l 3/tq t /1 .4 4 to 1.68 L stock, Salt and pepper
broth, or water for white rices.
Bay leaf, thyme, or other herbs
Brown rices or small pastas
may require more. Onions or other aromatic vegetables
Grated cheese
There 3re three baSIC points
ex p ert tips
at which flavoring and/or sea­
a
sonings may be added to the risotto.
Before the rice is added, aromatic vegetables may be added
to sweating onion to bolster the finished flavor of a risotto. Some examples
are:
CAR R OTS / C E LE R Y / GARLIC
Herbs and seasonings may be used by first adding them to the
liquid to infuse. The choice of liquid will also do a lot to determine the flavor of
the finished dish and should be selected carefully to complement all the other
flavors. Some common herbs and seasoning are:
BAY LEAVES / SA FFR O N / W ATER FR O M R E H Y D R A T IN G D RIED M U S H R O O M S
Near or at the end of cooking, garnish ingredients may be
added. The timing for the addition of these ingredients is important and will
depend on the required cooking time of the individual ingredient:
C U T OR W H O LE V E G E TA B LES , SU CH AS BRO CCOLI, PEAS, OR ASPAR A GU S /
FRESH HERBS, SU CH AS B A SIL, O R EG A N O , OR SAGE / SE A FO O D, SUCH AS
S H RIM P, SC A LLO PS , OR S Q U ID
For a healthier option: Use whole grains whenever possible, as
they have increased health benefits; farro easily replaces Arborio rice and
results in a similar final product.
ch a p te r 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S 765
 1. parch the rice in fat in a heavy-gauge
saucepan, sautoir, or rondeau after sweating the aromat­
ics. Onions and other aromatic vegetables should be given
sufficient time to sweat in the hot butter to fully develop
their flavor. In some risottos, a cooked onion puree is used
instead of chopped onions. Spices, either left whole or
ground, may be added at this point as well. (If using saf­
fron, infuse it into the cooking liquid fo r best flavor and
color.)
Cooking the rice in the fat produces the correct
finished texture in the risotto. Once a toasted aroma be­
comes apparent, stir in the firs t addition of liquid.

2. add the simmering liquid in

parts. Add one-quarter to one-third of the cooking liquid
to the parched rice and stir constantly over medium heat
until the liquid is absorbed. Continue adding portions of
the cooking liquid in this manner. A fter the rice absorbs
the firs t addition of the liquid, the grains appear firm and
quite distinct, and no real creaminess is evident yet. A fter
the rice absorbs the second addition of liquid, the grains
appear more tender and they begin to adopt a creamy,
sauce-like consistency.

766 V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PA S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
 risotto
3. stir constantly until the entire amount of
liquid has been incorporated, the rice is fully cooked, and
the risotto is creamy and thick without becoming mushy.
The average cooking time fo r risotto prepared with Arbo-
rio rice is 20 minutes.
Although the best risotto is prepared from start to
finish just prior to service, it is possible to partially cook
the dish in advance. To do this, remove the risotto from
the heat after the rice has absorbed 2/3 to 3A of the total
amount of cooking liquid. Pour the risotto onto a sheet
pan and spread it in an even layer. Cool it rapidly and
refrigerate. To finish risotto held in this manner, add the
final one-quarter to one-third of the cooking liquid to a
saucepan or sautoir and warm. Return all the parcooked
risotto to the pot with the warmed cooking liquid and heat
it over medium heat. Finish cooking until the risotto is
creamy and the rice is fully cooked. This can also be done
by the portion.

4. vigorously stir butter and grated cheese

or other finishing ingredients into the risotto over low
heat until well blended. Some garnish ingredients may be
added early in the cooking process so that they fully cook
along with the risotto. Others may be cooked separately
and added at the end. (Refer to specific recipes fo r de­
tails.) Add fresh herbs, if desired, adjust the seasoning,
and serve the risotto on heated plates.
Evaluate the quality of the finished risotto. Italians
describe a properly cooked risotto as a l l ' o n d a ("wave­
like"), meaning that the risotto has a creamy, almost por­
ridge-like consistency, but individual grains are slightly
firm with a discernable texture. Risotto that has been
cooked over too high heat or too rapidly will not develop
the proper consistency, nor will it be adequately cooked.
The finished consistency should be creamy and the ri­
sotto grains should be al dente.

chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S 767
Black Bean Mash Black Beans with
Makes 10 servings
Peppers and Chorizo
2 lb /9 0 7 g dried black beans Makes 10 servings
6 q t/5 .7 6 L water or Chicken Stock
(page 263), or as needed 12 o z/3 4 0 g dried black beans

2 bay leaves 3 q t/2 .8 8 L water or Chicken Stock (page 263)

2 ts p /4 g dried oregano Salt, as needed

Salt, as needed 2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL olive oil 3 o z/8 5 g minced bacon

8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice onions 6 o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice onion

4 garlic cloves, minced 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic

1 tb sp /6 g ground cumin 4 o z/1 1 3 g sliced Mexican chorizo

2 tb sp /6 g chopped oregano 3 o z/8 5 g medium-dice red pepper

Ground black pepper, as needed 3 o z/8 5 g medium-dice green pepper

2 o z/5 7 g sliced green onions, plus

1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak additional for garnish

the beans using the long or short method (see page
753)-
2 .. Drain the soaked beans.
3 . Combine the beans and water in a medium stockpot
and add the bay leaves and dried oregano. Simmer
for l hour.
4 . Add salt and continue to simmer until the beans are
tender to the bite, 20 to 30 minutes.
5 . Remove the bay leaves, strain any excess liquid from
the beans, and reduce it until syrupy.
6 . Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium-high
heat. Add the onions and garlic and sweat until ten­
der. Add the cumin and chopped oregano and stir to
combine.
7 . Combine the beans with the onion mixture and pu­
ree in a blender (working in batches if necessary).
If the mixture becomes too thick to process, add the
reduced bean liquid to thin it out. Season with salt
and pepper.
8 . Serve immediately or hold warm for service.
1 tb sp /3 g chopped oregano
1 tb sp /3 g roughly chopped cilantro
Ground black pepper, as needed
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL sour cream (optional)
1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak
the beans using the long or short method (see page
753). Drain.
2 . Combine the beans and water in a medium pot. Sim­
mer the beans for 1 hour.
3 . Add salt and continue to simmer until the beans are
tender to the bite, 20 to 30 minutes. Set the beans
aside in their cooking liquid.
4 . In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat
and add the bacon. Cook until the bacon fat is ren­
dered. Add the onions and saute until tender and
lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and
cook 1 minute more, stirring frequently.
5 . Add the chorizo and peppers and saute, stirring fre­
quently, until the peppers are tender, 6 to 8 minutes.
6 . Drain the beans and add them with enough cooking
liquid to keep them moist (the consistency should be
that of a thick stew). You may need to add more liquid
intermittently during the rest of the cooking process.
Simmer the beans until the flavors have developed
and all the ingredients are heated through.
7 . Add the green onions and herbs and season with salt
and pepper. Serve the beans with sour cream, if desired.

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P AST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Vegetarian Black Bean Crepes
 grain and legume recipes
Vegetarian Black Bean 4 . Stir in the beans, sun-dried tomatoes, cumin, and
coriander and heat through. Season with salt and
Crepes pepper. Keep hot.
Makes 10 servings 5 . Heat a crepe pan or small saute pan over medium
heat. Brush the pan with oil. Pour 4 fl oz/i2o mL of
CREPES the batter into the hot pan, swirling and tilting the
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL liquid from cooked black beans pan to coat the bottom. Cook, reducing the heat if
necessary, until the first side is set and has a little
33A o z/1 0 6 g all-purpose flour
color, about 2 minutes.
33A o z/1 0 6 g cornstarch
6 . Use a thin metal or silicone spatula to loosen the
2 V i tb sp /3 7.50 g butter, melted crepe and turn it over. Cook on the other side until
21/2 ts p /8 .5 0 g s a lt set and very lightly browned, about 1 minute more.
5 eggs
Remove from the pan and stack the crepes between
layers of parchment paper or wax paper as you cook.
FILLING
7 . Spoon about 3 tbsp/45 mL of the filling onto each
2V 2tbsp /37 mL olive oil crepe. Sprinkle with cilantro and cheese and fold the
5 o z/1 4 2 g diced onion crepe into quarters. Serve on heated plates with salsa
and sour cream, and garnish with green onions.
5 garlic cloves, minced

2 jalapenos, seeded and minced NOTES: The ba tte r can be made ahead and refrigerated for
up to 12 hours. S ubstitute Jack cheese fo r Chihuahua.
10 o z/2 8 4 g drained cooked black beans

4 o z/1 1 3 g chopped sun-dried tomatoes

V A ts p /2 .5 0 g ground cumin

V A ts p /2 .5 0 g ground coriander ijoles Refritos

Salt and ground black pepper, as needed Makes 10 servings

Oil, as needed 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL canola oil

V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped cilantro 1 medium white onion, thinly sliced

2'/2 cups/600 mL shredded queso Chihuahua 2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg Stewed Black Beans (page 775)

Vegetable Stock (page 265), as needed

GARNISH
2 o z/5 7 g queso fresco, grated
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Salsa Roja (page 954)
Tortilla Chips (page 962), as needed
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL sour cream

1 o z/2 8 g green onions

1 . Heat the oil in a medium saute pan over medium
heat. Add the onions and saute until caramelized,
1 . To make the crepes, combine all the crepe ingre­ 7 to 9 minutes. Remove the onions and reserve for
dients in a food processor or blender. Blend for 30 another use, if desired.
seconds. Scrape down the sides and process for 1
2 . Add the beans to the flavored oil. Mash the beans
minute more. The batter should be very smooth and
with a bean or potato masher and reduce the heat if
have the consistency of heavy cream. If necessary,
necessary to prevent burning.
adjust the consistency with milk or flour.
3 . Cook the beans until they have dried out slightly.
2 . Let the batter rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
Continue to cook, stirring to prevent sticking, un­
3 . To make the filling, heat the olive oil in a large saute til they are paste-like. Adjust the consistency with
pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and broth, if necessary.
jalapenos. Saute until the onions are translucent, 6
to 8 minutes.
4 . Serve immediately with cheese and tortilla chips.

chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S 7 71
Corona Beans (Fagioli Creamed Pinto Beans
a ll'U c c e lle t t o ) (Frijoles Maneados)
Makes 10 servings Makes 10 servings

2 lb /9 0 7 g dried corona beans 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dried pinto beans

8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL olive oil 2 q t/1 .9 2 L water

'/ 2 o z/1 4 g garlic, crushed 1 lb /4 5 4 g minced onions

4 o z/1 1 3 g prosciutto or pancetta, rough chop 5 ancho chiles, seeds and membranes removed

2 carrots, rough chop V / 2 ts p /3 g ground cumin

4 celery ribs, rough chop 1 tb s p /1 5 g tomato paste

1 thyme sprig V / 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g Mexican oregano

1 rosemary sprig 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL milk

1 bay leaf 2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil

1 g al/3 .8 4 L water, or as needed 3 garlic cloves, minced

Salt, as needed Salt, as needed

2 tb sp /6 g chopped rosemary Ground black pepper, as needed

V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped sage 8 o z/2 2 7 g grated queso Chihuahua

'/ 2 o z/1 4 g chopped parsley

Ground black pepper, as needed 1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak
the beans using the long or short method (page 753).

1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak 2 . Drain the soaked beans.
the beans using the long or short method (see page 3 . Place the beans in a large pot with the water and
753)- onions. Bring to a simmer, covered, over medium
2 . Drain the soaked beans. heat and cook until tender, about 20 minutes.

3 . Heat half of the oil in a medium pot over medium
heat, add the garlic, and cook until lightly browned,
about 2 minutes. Add the prosciutto and cook for l
minute. Add the carrots, celery, thyme, rosemary,
and bay leaf and cook for 2 minutes more.
4 . Add the beans and water. Simmer for l hour.
5 . Season with salt and continue to simmer until the
beans are tender to the bite, 20 to 30 minutes.
6 . Remove the garlic, prosciutto, carrots, celery, thyme,
rosemary, and bay leaf and discard. The beans can
be drained for immediate use, reserving some of the
cooking liquid, or rapidly cooled and refrigerated in
their liquid.
7 . To finish, heat the remaining oil in a sauce pot over
medium heat. Add the beans with a small amount of
their cooking liquid. Stir in the chopped rosemary,
sage, and parsley, taking care not to break the beans.
Season with salt and pepper.
4 . Heat the chiles briefly under a salamander without
allowing them to cook. Cut the chiles into chif­
fonade and add them to the beans along with the
cumin, tomato paste, and oregano.
5 . Using a spoon, scoop a portion of the beans (along
with a little of the cooking liquid) into a blender or
food processor. Puree with about 2 fl o z/6o mL of
the milk. Continue pureeing portions of the beans
with the milk until all the beans are pureed and all of
the milk is incorporated.
6 . Heat the oil in a small rondeau over medium heat.
Add the garlic and cook until aromatic. Add the
pureed beans and mix well. Season with salt and
pepper.
7 . Cover the pot, place in a 350°F/i77°C oven, and cook
until smooth and thick, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
8 . Top the beans with the cheese and serve immedi­
ately or hold hot for service.

V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PA S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S

Frijoles a la Charra
Makes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g black beans, rinsed and picked over
r /2 tsp/B g ground cumin, toasted
1 ts p /2 g dried oregano
lV 2 ts p /3 g paprika
1 ts p /2 g dried thyme
1 tb s p /1 5 g tomato paste
3 saw leaf herb leaves
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 tb sp /1 5 mL vegetable oil
6 o z/1 7 0 g onions, minced
1 serrano chile, minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 p t/4 8 0 mL tomatoes, cut into medium dice
3 tb s p /3 0 g s a !t
1 . Soak the beans overnight in three times their vol­
ume of water.
2 . Drain the beans from their soaking liquid. Place the
beans and enough water to cover by l in/2.5 cm in
a large saucepan. Add the cumin, oregano, paprika,
thyme, tomato paste, saw leaf, and pepper. Bring to a
simmer and cover with a lid while cooking.
3 . Heat the oil in a rondeau over medium heat and
sweat the onions, chile, garlic and tomatoes. Con­
tinue to cook until the vegetables are soft, but not
browned, about 10 minutes. Add this mixture to the
beans and continue to simmer until the beans are
tender and splitting apart. Add more water to the
beans if necessary during cooking to keep the beans
covered by only 1 in/2.5 cm. Season with salt and
pepper.
4 . Hold hot for service. Serve the beans in small earth­
enware crocks on the plate.
grain and legume recipes
Frijoles Puercos
Estilo Sinaloa
Makes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g dried pinto beans
2 o z/5 7 g quartered white onion
1 tb sp /9 g garlic, smashed
4 o z/1 1 3 g lard
4 o z/1 1 3 g bacon, cut into small dice
4 o z/1 1 3 g Mexican chorizo, no casing
4 3/ t o z/1 3 5 g white onion, cut into small dice
4 o z/1 1 3 g grated queso Chihuahua
2 o z/5 7 g canned chipotles in adobo sauce
1 o z/2 8 g pitted green olives, diced
1 tb s p /1 0 g salt
1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak
the beans overnight.
2 .. Drain the soaked beans.
3 . Place the beans in a heavy-bottomed pot with the
quartered onion, garlic, and enough water to gener­
ously cover the beans. Simmer until the beans are
tender, 30 to 40 minutes.
4 . Drain the beans, reserving the cooking liquid and
discarding the onion and garlic. Let the beans cool.
5 . Working in batches if necessary, transfer the cooled
beans to a blender. Puree with just enough of the
reserved cooking liquid to make a smooth puree. Set
aside.
6 . In a rondeau or heavy-bottomed pot, heat the lard
over medium heat. Saute the bacon and chorizo
until crisp. Remove the meats from the pan and re­
serve. Add the diced onion, and saute until the onion
begins to soften, 2 to 3 minutes.
7 . Add the bean puree and stir constantly to prevent
sticking. When the mixture comes to a simmer, add
the cheese, chipotle, olives, reserved meat, and salt.
Serve hot.
chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S 773
 Middle Eastern Roman-Style Lima
Chickpeas Beans
Makes 10 servings Makes 10 servings

12 o z/3 4 0 g dried chickpeas 12 o z/3 4 0 g dried lima beans

SACHET D'EPICES BOUQUET GARNI

V2 o z/1 4 g sliced ginger 2 thyme sprigs

V /2 tsp/B g cumin seed 2 oregano sprigs

1 ts p /1.50 g coriander seed 1 rosemary sprig

I/2 tsp /1 g cracked pink peppercorns '/ 2 tsp /1 g cracked black peppercorns

V 2 tsp /1 g cracked black peppercorns 2 leek leaves, 3 to 4 in /8 to 10 cm long

'A tsp /1 g mustard seed

2 tb sp /3 0 mL olive oil
5 cardamom pods
4 o z/1 1 3 g diced pancetta
1 cinnamon stick
6 o z/1 7 0 g chopped onions

2 tb sp /3 0 mL vegetable oil V2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic

6 o z/1 7 0 g chopped onions 3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed

V2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic 1 Parmesan rind (optional)

3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed Salt, as needed

Salt, as needed 2 tb sp /3 0 mL red wine vinegar, or as needed

Lemon juice, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

1 . Sort the chickpeas and rinse well with cold water.
Soak the chickpeas using the long or short method
(see page 753).
2 . Drain the soaked beans.
3 . To make the sachet d epices, combine all the ingre­
dients in a piece of cheesecloth and tie into a pouch
with twine.
4 . Heat the oil in a medium sauce pot over medium
heat. Add the onions and sweat until tender and
translucent, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook
another minute.
1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak
the beans using the long or short method (see page
753)-
2.. Drain the soaked beans.
3 . To make the bouquet garni, sandwich the thyme,
oregano, rosemary, and peppercorns between the
leek leaves and tie into a bundle with twine.
4 . Heat the oil in a medium sauce pot over medium
heat. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat has
rendered. Add the onions and sweat until tender and
translucent, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook
another minute; do not let the garlic brown.

5 . Add the chickpeas, stock, and sachet. Simmer for 1 5 . Add the lima beans, stock, bouquet, and cheese rind,
hour. if using. Simmer the beans for 1 hour.

6 . Add salt and continue to simmer until the chickpeas 6 . Add salt and continue to simmer until the beans are
are tender to the bite. tender to the bite, 20 to 30 minutes.

7 . Remove and discard the sachet. Season the chick­ 7 . Remove the bouquet and season with vinegar, salt,
peas with lemon juice, salt, and pepper. and pepper.

8 . Drain the chickpeas for immediate use or cool them 8 . Drain the lima beans for immediate use or cool them
rapidly and refrigerate in their liquid. rapidly and refrigerate in their liquid.

774 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S


Southwest White
Bean Stew
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g Boiled White Beans (page 777), drained
2 ts p /1 0 mL vegetable oil
6 o z/1 7 0 g chopped onion
4 o z/1 1 3 g small-dice red pepper
2 o z/5 7 g minced jalapenos
1 o z/2 8 g minced garlic
2 fl o z/6 0 mL sherry vinegar
4 o z/1 1 3 g tomato concasse
2 tb sp /6 g roughly chopped cilantro
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Puree half of the cooked beans. Combine with the
remaining beans.
2 . Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium-
high heat. Add the onions, peppers, jalapenos, and
garlic. Saute until the onions are translucent, 5 to 6
minutes.
3 . Add the beans and saute, stirring constantly, until
heated through.
4 . Add the vinegar and concasse and continue to saute
until very hot.
5 . Stir in the cilantro and season with salt and pepper.
Serve immediately or hold hot for service.
grain and legume recipes
Stewed Black Beans
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g dried black beans
2 tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice onions
1 o z/2 8 g thinly sliced garlic
1 ham hock
Chicken Stock (page 263), as needed
Salt, as needed
3 chipotles in adobo sauce, finely chopped
3 o z/8 5 g small-dice sun-dried tomatoes
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak
the beans using the long or short method (see page
753)-
2 . Drain the soaked beans.
3 . Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add
the onions and garlic and sweat until translucent.
4 . Add the beans, ham hock, and enough stock to cover
the beans by 1 in/3 cm - Simmer the beans for 1 hour.
5 . Add the salt, chipotles, and tomatoes. Continue to
simmer until the beans are tender to the bite, 20 to
30 minutes.
6 . Remove the meat from the ham hock, discard the
bones, dice the meat, and add it back to the beans.
Season with salt and pepper.
7 . Serve immediately or hold hot for service.
chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S 775
Falafel Rice and Beans
Makes 10 servings Makes 10 servings

11 o z/3 1 2 g dried chickpeas, sorted, 1 lb /4 5 4 g dried red kidney beans,

rinsed, and soaked overnight sorted, rinsed, and soaked

11 o z/3 1 2 g dried fava beans, sorted, 4 o z/1 1 3 g diced bacon

rinsed, and soaked for 24 hours
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 bunch parsley, chopped
V/2 q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
3 green onions, finely chopped
5 o z/1 4 2 g long-grain white rice
1 tsp/2gcayenne
8 f 1o z/2 4 0 mL unsweetened coconut milk
1 tb sp /6 g ground cumin
V A o z/4 3 g chopped green onions
1'A ts p /2.50 g ground coriander
1 tb sp /3 g chopped thyme
6 garlic cloves, crushed with 1 tsp salt
Salt, as needed
l'/t t s p /3 .7 5 g baking powder
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 tb s p /1 0 g salt

1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed for frying 1 . Drain the beans.

1 . Drain the soaked beans. Rinse and dry them.
2 . In a food processor, blend the beans, parsley, onions,
cayenne, cumin, coriander, garlic, baking powder,
and salt together in batches until the mixture is
homogeneous.
3 . Form the mixture into balls l to 1V2 in/3 to 4 cm in
diameter. Slightly flatten the balls.
4 . Heat the oil to 350°F/i77°C in a large rondeau or
fryer and deep fry the falafel until crisp and brown,
about 4 minutes.
5 . Remove and drain briefly on paper towels. Serve
immediately.
2 . Render the bacon in a medium saucepan over low
heat. Add the garlic and sweat until aromatic. Add the
stock and beans. Simmer until the beans are tender.
3 . Rinse the rice in a strainer under cold water until
the water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
4 . Add the rice and coconut milk to the beans. Cover
and simmer until the rice is tender and all the liquid
has been absorbed, about 20 minutes.
5 . Gently fold in the green onions and thyme and sea­
son with salt and pepper.
6 . Serve immediately or hold hot for service.

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
 grain and legume recipes
Red Beans and Boiled 5 . Bring the water to a boil in a heavy pot and add 2V2
oz/71 g salt. Add the rinsed rice to the boiling water
Rice and simmer over low heat until tender, 10 to 15 min­
Makes 10 servings utes. Stir the rice occasionally as it cooks to prevent
burning.
1 lb /4 5 4 g dried red kidney beans,
6 . Serve the beans immediately on a bed of the rice or
sorted, rinsed, and soaked
hold everything hot for service.
4 o z/1 1 3 g andouille sausage, ' / 2-in /l-c m slices

1 ham hock

4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion

2 o z/5 7 g small-dice celery Boiled White Beans

2 o z/5 7 g small-dice green pepper Makes 10 servings

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 lb /4 5 4 g dried white beans
1 o z /2 8 g bacon fa t
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil
Salt, as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g chopped onion
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 ham hock (optional)
Hot sauce, as needed
2 q t/1 .9 2 L w ater or Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g long-grain white rice
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241)
l ’/2 g al/5 .7 6 L water
Salt, as needed

1 . Drain the soaked beans, transfer them to a medium 1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak
stockpot, add the sausage and ham hock, and cover
the beans using the long or short method (see page
with water by at least l in/3 cm - Simmer the beans
753)-
until they are completely tender. If necessary, add
2 . Drain the soaked beans.
additional water to keep the liquid 1 in/3 cm above
the beans as they cook. Remove from the heat and 3 . Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add
reserve the beans, sausage, and ham hock in the the onions and sweat until translucent.
cooking liquid. 4 . Add the beans, ham hock, if using, water, and sachet
2 . Saute the onions, celery, green peppers, and garlic d epices. Simmer the beans for 1 hour.
in the bacon fat in a large rondeau until they begin 5 . Season with salt and continue to simmer until the
to turn golden brown. Add the cooked beans, meats, beans are tender to the bite, 20 to 30 minutes.
and liquid and simmer for 30 minutes. Season with
6 . If using, remove the meat from the ham hock, dis­
salt and pepper. The beans should remain brothy. If
card the bones, cut the meat into a medium dice,
necessary, add additional water.
and add it back to the beans.
3 . Remove the meat from the ham hocks, discard the
7 . Remove the sachet depices.
bones, cut the meat into medium dice, and add back
8 . Drain the beans for immediate use or cool them rap­
to the beans. Mash enough of the beans with the
idly and refrigerate in their liquid.
back of a spoon so that they become creamy. Add
hot sauce and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
Keep hot.
4 . Rinse the rice in a strainer under cold water until
the water runs clear. Drain the rice well.

chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S 777
Vegetarian Chili 5 . Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high
heat. Add the onions, peppers, garlic, chipotle,
Makes 10 servings
adobo sauce, and poblanos and saute until aromat­
1 lb /4 5 4 g dried black beans ic and just turning golden.

Salt, as needed 6 . Add the chili powder, cumin, coriander, and cin­
namon and cook until aromatic. Stir in the tomato
2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil
paste, and cook for 2 minutes.
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice onion
7 . Add the wine and reduce by two-thirds. Add the
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice green pepper
stock and tomatoes, bring to a simmer, and cook
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice red pepper gently until the vegetables are tender, 8 to 10
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice yellow pepper minutes.

'/ 2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic 8 . Add the drained beans and cook 5 minutes more.

V i to 1 chipotle in adobo sauce, finely chopped 9 . Add the masa slurry to the chili, mix well, and
bring back to simmer. Season with salt, pepper,
1 ts p /5 mL adobo sauce
and sugar.
2 poblanos, roasted, seeded, and peeled, small dice
0 . Serve immediately, garnished with cheese, sour
2 ts p /4 g Chili Powder (page 3 6 8 or purchased)
cream, and cilantro, or hold hot for service.
1 tb sp /6 g ground cumin

3A ts p /1.50 g ground coriander

Pinch ground cinnamon

2 'A o z/71 g tomato paste

6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL white wine

28 f I o z/8 4 0 mL Vegetable Stock (page 265)

5 o z/1 4 2 g small-dice tomato

o z/1 4 g masa harina, mixed with

'/ 2
vegetable stock to make a slurry

Ground black pepper, as needed

Sugar, as needed

8 o z/2 2 7 g grated Monterey Jack

5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL sour cream

3 tb sp /9 g roughly chopped cilantro

1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak
the beans using the long or short method (see page
753)-
2 . Drain the soaked beans.
3 . Transfer the beans to a large stockpot and add wa­
ter to cover generously. Simmer for l hour.
4 . Add salt and continue to simmer until the beans
are tender to the bite, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain well
and reserve.

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Rice Pilaf
Makes 10 servings
2 cups/480 mL long-grain white rice
2 tb sp /3 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
3A o z/21 g minced onion
28 to 32 f I o z/8 4 0 to 960 mL Chicken
Stock (page 263), hot
1 bay leaf
2 thyme sprigs
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . If desired, rinse the rice in a strainer under cold wa­
ter until the water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
2 . Heat the butter in a heavy-gauge medium pot over
medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring fre­
quently, until tender and translucent, 5 to 6 minutes.
3 . Add the rice and saute over medium-high heat, stir­
ring frequently, until coated with butter and heated
through, 2 to 3 minutes.
4 . Add the stock and bring to a simmer, stirring to pre­
vent the rice from clumping together or sticking to
the bottom of the pot.
5 . Add the bay leaf, thyme, salt, and pepper. Cover the
pot and place it in a 350°F/i77°C oven or leave it
over low heat on the stovetop. Cook until the grains
are tender to the bite, 16 to 20 minutes.
6 . Allow the rice to rest 5 minutes, fluff with a fork,
and serve immediately or hold hot for service.
Short-Grain White Rice Pilaf (Valencia): S ubstitute an
equal amount o f short-grain white rice fo r the long-
grain. Decrease the stock to between 16 and 2 4 fl
o z/4 80 and 720 mL. Increase the cooking tim e to
between 2 0 and 30 minutes.
Converted White Rice Pilaf: S ubstitute an equal amount o f
converted white rice fo r the long-grain. Use 2 8 f I oz/8 40
mL chicken stock. Increase the cooking tim e to between
20 and 25 minutes.
Wild Rice Pilaf: S ubstitute an equal amount o f wild rice
fo r the long-grain. Increase the stock to 2 q t/1 .9 2 L.
Increase the cooking tim e to 45 minutes to 1 hour.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Wheat Berry Pilaf: S ubstitute an equal amount o f wheat
berries fo r the long-grain white rice. Soak them
overnight in cold water in the re frig era to r and drain
before cooking. Increase the stock to 40 f I o z/1 .2 L.
Increase the cooking tim e to between 1 and lVth'ours.
Pearl Barley Pilaf: S ubstitute an equal amount o f pearl
barley fo r the long-grain white rice. Increase the stock to
40 to 4 8 f I oz/1.2 to 1.44 L. Increase the cooking tim e to
40 minutes.
Brown Rice Pilaf with
Pecans and Green
Onions
Makes 10 servings
2 cups/480 mL long-grain brown rice
V / 2 o z/4 3 g butter or oil
2 o z/5 7 g minced onion
V / 2 q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263), hot
1 Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241)
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 o z/5 7 g toasted pecans, chopped
2 o z/5 7 g sliced green onions
1 . If desired, rinse the rice in a strainer under cold wa­
ter until the water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
2 . Heat the butter in a heavy-gauge medium pot over
medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring fre­
quently, until tender and translucent, 5 to 6 minutes.
3 . Add the rice and saute over medium-high heat, stir­
ring frequently, until coated with butter and heated
through, 2 to 3 minutes.
4 . Add the stock to the rice and bring to a simmer, stir­
ring to prevent the rice from clumping together or
sticking to the bottom of the pot.
5 . Add the bouquet garni, salt, and pepper. Cover the
pot and place it in a 350°F/i77°C oven or leave it
over low heat on the stovetop. Cook until the grains
are tender to the bite, 35 to 40 minutes.
 grain and legume recipes
D. Allow the rice to rest 5 minutes. Uncover and use Arroz Blanco
a fork to fold in the pecans and green onions while Makes 10 servings
separating the grains and releasing the steam. Serve
immediately or hold hot for service. 2 cups/480 mL long-grain white rice

Hot water, as needed

Short-Grain Brown Rice Pitaf: Substitute an equal amount
6 o z/1 7 0 g minced onion
of short-grain brown rice fo r the long-grain. Decrease
the amount o f stock to V A q t/1 .2 0 L. Decrease the 1 garlic clove, minced
cooking tim e to between 30 and 35 minutes.
2 ts p / 6 g salt, or as needed

2 f I o z/6 0 mL canola oil

2 parsley sprigs

Annatto Rice 1 . Cover the rice with hot water and let stand for 5
Makes 10 servings
minutes. Drain the rice in a strainer.

2 cups/480 mL long-grain white rice 2 . Rinse the rice in the strainer under cold water until
the water runs clear. Remove excess water from the
1 o z/2 8 g butter
rice by shaking the strainer vigorously.
3A fI o z/2 2.50 mL annatto paste
3 . Puree the onions, garlic, salt, and 4 fl oz/120 mL hot
1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice Standard or water in a blender.
White Mirepoix (page 243)
4 . Heat the canola oil in a medium saucepan over me­
V 2 Scotch bonnet, seeded and minced
dium heat and saute the rice until it crackles when
3 garlic cloves, minced stirred, about 3 minutes.
1 bay leaf 5 . Add the pureed ingredients and 24 fl oz/720 mL hot
28 f I o z/8 4 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263) water and bring to a full boil. Allow to boil for 3
minutes.
Salt, as needed
6 . Season with salt and add the parsley. Reduce the
Ground black pepper, as needed
heat to a simmer and cover with a tight-fitting lid.
Cook until small holes appear in the rice, about 20
1 . If desired, rinse the rice in a strainer under cold wa­
minutes. Fluff with a fork, remove the parsley, re­
ter until the water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
cover, and hold hot for service.
2 . Heat the butter in a heavy-gauge medium pot over
low heat and add the annatto paste. Stir to dissolve
the paste.
3 . Add the mirepoix, Scotch bonnet, garlic, and bay
leaf. Cook over medium heat until the onions are
translucent, about 10 minutes.
4 . Add the rice, stock, salt, and pepper. Bring to a sim­
mer. Cover, and cook in a 350°F/i77°C oven for 12 to
15 minutes.
5 . Allow the rice to rest for 5 minutes, fluff it with a
fork, and serve immediately or hold hot for service.

chapter 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S 781
Arroz Mexicano
Makes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g white long-grain rice
4 o z/1 1 3 g Roma tomatoes, cut into medium dice
3 o z/8 5 g white onion, medium dice
'/ 2 ts p /1.50 g minced garlic
2 tb s p /2 0 g salt, plus more as needed
2 fl o z/6 0 mL canola oil
26 f 1o z/7 8 0 mL water
1 o z/2 8 g serrano chiles, minced
6 o z/1 7 0 g carrots, cut into small dice
3 o z/8 5 g green peas
3 o z/8 5 g potatoes, cut into small dice
Parsley sprigs
1 . Cover the rice with hot water and let stand for 5
minutes. Drain the rice in a strainer.
2 . Rinse the rice in the strainer under cold water until
the water runs clear. Remove excess water from the
rice by shaking the strainer vigorously.
3 . In a blender or food processor, puree the tomatoes,
onions, garlic, and salt until smooth.
4 . Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium
heat and saute the rice until it crackles when stirred,
about 3 minutes.
5 . Add the puree to the rice and cook until it changes
color and dries out, 4 to 6 minutes.
6 . Add the water and bring to a full boil. Add the chiles,
carrots, peas, potatoes, and parsley. Taste and season
with salt if necessary.
7 . Reduce the heat to a simmer and cover with a tight-
fitting lid. Cook until small holes appear in the rice,
about 20 minutes.
8 . Fluff with a fork, remove the parsley sprigs, and let
stand, covered, for 10 minutes before serving.
VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Arroz Brasileiro
Makes 10 servings
l'/2 o z /4 3 g butter
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion
r /2 ts p /4 .5 0 g minced garlic
2 cups/480 mL long-grain white rice
1 clove
28 to 32 f I o z/8 4 0 to 9 6 0 mL hot water
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Heat the butter in a heavy-gauge medium pot over
medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and saute
until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes.
2 . Add the rice, stirring constantly, until the rice has
absorbed the butter and the grains are translucent.
3 . Add the clove and water and bring to a boil over high
heat. Reduce the heat, season with salt and pepper,
cover, and simmer until the rice is tender, about 20
minutes.
4 . Allow the rice to rest for 5 minutes, fluff it with a
fork, remove the clove, and serve immediately or
hold hot for service.
Coconut Rice
Makes 10 servings
14 o z/3 9 7 g long-grain white rice
3 tb s p /4 5 mL vegetable oil or melted butter
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL water
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL unsweetened coconut milk
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . If desired, rinse the rice in a strainer under cold wa­
ter until the water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
2 . Heat the oil in a heavy-gauge medium pot over medi­
um heat. Add the rice and saute, stirring frequently,
until coated with butter and heated through.

3 . Add the water and coconut milk to the rice and sea­
son with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer. Cover
and cook in a 350°F/i77°C oven for 12 to 15 minutes.
4 . Allow the rice to rest for 5 minutes, fluff it with a
fork, and serve immediately or hold hot for service.
Risotto
Makes 10 servings
2 o z/5 7 g minced onion
2 o z/5 7 g butter
2 cups/480 mL Arborio rice
V / 2 q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263), hot
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Sweat the onions in the butter in a heavy-gauge
saucepan, sautoir, or rondeau until softened and
translucent, 6 to 8 minutes.
2 . Add the rice and mix thoroughly with the butter.
Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until a
toasted aroma rises, about 1 minute.
3 . Add one-third of the stock and cook, stirring con­
stantly, until the rice has absorbed the stock.
4 . Repeat, adding the remaining stock in two more por­
tions, allowing each to be absorbed before adding
the next. Cook the risotto until the rice is just tender
and most of the liquid is absorbed. (The dish should
be creamy.)
5 . Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately
or hold warm for service.
Parmesan Risotto: Prepare the risotto, replacing up to one-
quarter o f the stock w ith a dry white wine. Add the wine
to the stock as it heats to a simmer fo r the best flavor.
Finish the ris o tto by adding 4 o z /1 13 g grated Parmesan
and 4 o z /1 13 g butter.
Wild Mushroom Risotto: Soak 3 oz/85 g dried wild
mushrooms in 8 f l o z/2 40 mL warm water fo r 30 minutes
to 1 hour. Drain the mushrooms and add to the bu tte r
w ith the onions. Strain the soaking liquid through a
paper filte r to remove any sediment, measure it, and use
it to replace an equal amount o f the stock.
grain and legume recipes
Green Pea Risotto (Risi e Si's/): Fold 8 oz/2 2 7 g cooked
green peas into the prepared riso tto during the last few
minutes o f cooking.
Risotto with Asparagus Tips: Fold 2 / 2 oz/71 g blanched
asparagus tip s into the prepared riso tto during the last
few m inutes o f cooking. Finish the riso tto by adding 4
o z /1 13 g g ra te d Parmesan, 4 o z /1 13 g butter, and l ’/z
oz/43 g chopped parsley.
Risotto alia Milanese
Makes 10 servings
V / 2 q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
V * ts p /0 .6 0 g saffron threads
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
3 o z/8 5 g minced onion
7 fl o z/2 1 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups/480 mL Arborio rice
2 f 1o z/6 0 mL dry white wine
5 o z/1 4 2 g butter
6 o z/1 7 0 g grated Parmesan
1 . Heat the stock in a medium sauce pot over low heat.
Add the saffron and season with salt and pepper.
Keep hot.
2.. Sweat the onions in 2 fl oz/6o mL of the oil in a me­
dium sautoir or sauce pot until softened and translu­
cent, 6 to 8 minutes.
3 . Add the rice and mix thoroughly with the oil. Cook,
stirring constantly, until a toasted aroma rises, about
1 minute.
4 . Add the wine and cook until dry.
5 . Add one-third of the stock and simmer, stirring con­
stantly, until the rice has absorbed the stock.
6 . Repeat, adding the remaining stock in two more por­
tions, allowing each to be absorbed before adding
the next. Cook the risotto until the rice is just tender
and most of the liquid is absorbed. (The dish should
be creamy.)
7 . Stir in the butter, cheese, and the remaining oil.
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and serve im­
mediately or hold warm for service.
Chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S 783
Vegetarian Risotto
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g kale, cut into small dice
Oil, as needed
2 lb /9 0 7 g butternut squash, small dice
2 'A o z/6 3 g minced onion
Makes 10 servings
2 o z/5 7 g butter
2 cups/480 mL Arborio rice
13A q t/1 .6 8 L Vegetable Stock (page 265)
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
Salt, as needed
Ground white pepper, as needed
3 o z/8 5 g shaved Parmesan
3 f I o z/9 0 mL vegetable oil
2 lb /9 0 7 g portobello mushrooms, cut into small dice
2 lb /9 0 7 g red peppers, roasted,
peeled, cut into small dice
3A o z/21 g chopped sage
V A o z/4 3 g chopped parsley
5 o z/1 4 2 g toasted pumpkin seeds
1 . Blanch the kale briefly in simmering salted water.
Shock in ice water, drain, and reserve.
2 . Lightly oil a small roasting pan and add the butternut
squash. Roast in a 400°F/204°C oven until just soft, 15
to 20 minutes. Reserve.
3 . Sweat the onions in the butter in a medium pot until
soft and translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the rice and
mix thoroughly. Cook, stirring, until a toasted aroma
rises, about 1 minute.
4 . Add one-third of the stock and the sachet and cook, stir­
ring constantly, until the rice has absorbed the stock.
Repeat, adding the remaining stock in two more por­
tions, allowing each to be absorbed before adding the
next. Cook the risotto until the rice is tender but with
a pleasing texture and most of the liquid is absorbed.
5 . Remove the sachet. Season the risotto with salt and
pepper. Stir in the cheese. Hold warm.
6 . When ready to serve, heat the vegetable oil in a me­
dium saute pan. Add the mushrooms and saute until
golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the kale, squash, and pep­
pers. Saute until the mixture is heated through, toss­
ing to combine the vegetables.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
7 . Serve the risotto topped with the vegetables, sage,
parsley, and pumpkin seeds, or gently fold the mix­
ture into the risotto.
Risotto with Mussels
5 lb /2.27 kg mussels, scrubbed and debearded
V A q t/1 .2 0 L Fish Fumet (page 255), hot
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 o z/5 7 g minced onion
6 o z/1 7 0 g butter
2 cups/480 mL Arborio rice
r /2 o z/4 3 g chopped parsley
1 . Steam the mussels in a small amount of salted water
in a covered tall pot until the shells open. Remove
the mussel meat from the shells and reserve. Decant
and strain the cooking liquid.
2.. Bring the stock and the cooking liquid from the mus­
sels to a simmer in a medium sauce pot and season
with salt and pepper. Keep hot.
3 . Sweat the onions in 2 oz/57 g of the butter in a me­
dium sautoir or sauce pot until softened and translu­
cent, 6 to 8 minutes.
4 . Add the rice and mix thoroughly with the butter.
Cook, stirring constantly, until a toasted aroma rises,
about 1 minute.
5 . Add one-third of the stock and simmer, stirring con­
stantly, until the rice has absorbed the stock.
6 . Repeat, adding the remaining stock in two more por­
tions, allowing each to be absorbed before adding
the next.
7 . Add the mussel meat and cook until the rice is just
tender and most of the liquid is absorbed. (The dish
should be creamy.)
8 . Remove from the heat and stir in the parsley and the
remaining 4 oz/113 g butter. Adjust seasoning with
salt and pepper and serve immediately.

Basic Boiled Rice
Makes 10 servings
2 cups/480 mL long-grain white rice
3 q t/2 .8 8 L water
Salt, as needed
1 . Rinse the rice in a strainer under cold water until the
water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
2 . Bring the water to a rolling boil in a large sauce pot
and add salt.
3 . Add the rice in a thin stream, stirring it with a fork to
prevent the grains from clumping as they are added.
(There should be enough water to cover the rice.)
When the water returns to a boil, reduce the heat to a
simmer and cover the pot.
4 . Simmer the rice until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain
immediately in a colander and set the colander in
the pot. Return to the heat to steam the rice dry for 5
minutes. (The rice should no longer be sticky.)
5 . Fluff with a fork and serve immediately or hold hot
for service.
Steamed Long-Grain
Rice (L0 Han)
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g long-grain Chinese rice
I V 2 q t/1 .4 4 L water, or as needed
1 . If desired, rinse the rice in a strainer under cold wa­
ter until the water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
2 . Place the rice in a half hotel pan and add water to
cover by V4 in/6 mm.
3 . Cover tightly with plastic wrap and cook in a steamer
or rice cooker until the grains are tender, 45 minutes.
4 . Allow the rice to rest for 10 minutes, fluff it with a
fork, and serve immediately or hold hot for service.
grain and legume recipes
Sushi Rice
Makes 10 full-size rolls or 20 half rolls
3 lb 8 o z/1.59 kg short-grain rice
Cool to cold water, as needed
1 piece kombu, 6-in /15-cm square (optional)
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar
2 V i o z/7 1 g sugar
V A o z/3 5 g sea salt
1 . Rinse the rice in a strainer under cold water until
the water runs semiclear. Transfer the rice to a bowl,
cover with cool water, and soak 1 hour. Drain well.
2 . Combine the drained rice with 2 qt/1.92 L water in
a rice steamer. Steam until the rice is almost com­
pletely cooked, about 30 minutes.
3 . Allow the rice to rest at room temperature for 10
minutes.
4 . If using the kombu, slash it with a knife in a few
places and wipe it with a damp cloth, only to remove
any sand, being careful not to remove any flavorful
white powder. Combine the vinegar, sugar, salt, and
kombu in a small saucepan. Warm over low heat,
stirring to dissolve the sugar and salt. Do not let the
mixture boil. Cool to room temperature.
5 . Transfer the rice to two hotel pans (2 in/5 cm deep).
Drizzle with the vinegar mixture. Use a wooden rice
paddle to “cut” and fold the rice with horizontal
strokes. Continue until the mixture has cooled and
takes on a shiny appearance.
6 . Combine the two pans of rice and serve immediately
or refrigerate for later use.
chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S 785
Fried Rice with Chinese Sausage

Fried Rice with
Chinese Sausage
Makes 10 servings
2 V 2 f I o z/7 5 mL vegetable oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice Chinese sausage
6 o z/1 7 0 g minced onion
8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice carrots, blanched
8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice shiitake mushrooms
8 o z/2 2 7 g roughly chopped napa cabbage
4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg cooked long-grain rice, chilled
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
8 o z/2 2 7 g snow peas, cut into 3/t-in /2 -c m squares
5 eggs, beaten
2 fl o z/6 0 mL mushroom soy sauce,
or as needed (optional)
1. Heat2floz/6om
Loftheoilinawokovermedium
heat.Addthesausageandcooktorenderthefat.
2 . Increasetheheatandaddtheonions. Stir-fryuntil
aromaticandbeginningtobrown.
3.A ddthecarrots,mushrooms,andcabbage,inthat
order,allowingtimeforeachingredienttobegin
browningbeforeaddingthenext.
4 .A ddtherice,salt,andpepperandstir-fryuntilthe
riceishotandbeginstobrown.
5.A ddthesnowpeasandcookuntiltheyarebright
green.
6. Addtheremainingoiltothesidesofthewokand
drizzletheeggmixturearoundthetopoftherice.As
theeggmixturecooks,folditintotherice.Addthe
soysauce,ifusing.
7.Adjustseasoningwithsalt,pepper,andsoysauce, if
using.Serveimmediatelyorholdhotforservice.
grain and legume recipes
Thai Sticky Rice with
Mangos (Mamuang
Koo Nieo)
Makes 10 servings
14 o z/3 9 7 g sticky rice, soaked overnight
22 f I o z/6 6 0 mL unsweetened coconut milk
12 o z/3 4 0 g Thai palm sugar
3A o z/21 g salt
l ' A o z/3 5 g granulated sugar
1 o z /2 8 g rice flour
2 tb s p /3 0 m L w a te r
4 mangos, peeled, pitted, and sliced
1. Drainthesoakedriceandplaceitinanelectricrice
steamerwithwaterorinabamboosteamerlined
withcheeseclothoverawokofsimmeringwater.
Steamuntilthegrainsaresoft,20to25minutes.
2.. W hilethericeissteaming,combine5V2floz/165
mLofthecoconutmilkwiththepalmsugarand1
tbsp/10gofthesaltinasmallsaucepan.W armover
lowheattodissolvethesaltandsugar.Mixwelland
setaside.
3.W henthericeisdone,transferittoabowl.While
stillhot,addthecoconutmilk-sugarmixture.Using
aspatula,stirtocoatthegrainsquicklyandevenly.
Coverwithplasticwrapandsetasideuntiltherice
absorbstheliquid,about15minutes.
4 . Com binetheremainingcoconutmilk,salt,andthe
granulatedsugarinasaucepan.Bringtoaboiland
reducetheheat. Combinethericeflourandwater
andmixwell.Whilethesauceissimmering,drizzle
inthericeflourslurry,stirringconstantly.Returnto
aboil,immediatelyremovefromtheheat,andset
aside.
5. Serveim mediatelywithV2to1floz/15to30mLof
thecoconuttoppingandmangoslicesperserving,or
holdhotforservice.
chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S 787
Paella Valenciana 5.A
ddthemusselsandshrimp.Coverandcookfor5
Makes 10 servings to7minutes. Duringthelastminute,addthepeas.
(Addmorestockduringcooking,ifnecessary,sothat
20 shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count) thericedoesnotdryout.)
3 fl o z/9 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 6. Serveimmediately,garnishedwithgreenonionsand
2 ]A ts p /1 .8 0 g crushed saffron
piquillopeppers.
2 A q t/2 .1 6 L Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed

10 whole chicken legs, separated

Salt, as needed
Saffron Rice
Ground black pepper, as needed
Makes 10 servings
6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice onion
2 lb /9 0 7 g basmati rice
6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice red pepper
V / 2 gal /5 .7 6 L water
6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice green pepper
It b s p /lO g s a lt
V / 2 o z/4 3 g minced garlic
2 o z/5 7 g butter
6 o z/1 7 0 g dry Spanish chorizo, sliced 1 in /3 mm thick
2 fl o z/6 0 mL milk
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g Spanish rice
V / 2 ts p /1 .20 g saffron threads, crumbled
6 o z/1 7 0 g peeled, seeded, and large-diced tomato

20 clams, little necks, scrubbed

1. Rinsethericeinastrainerundercoldw
ateruntil
3 lb /1.36 kg mussels, scrubbed and debearded thewaterrunsclear. Drainthericewell.
6 o z/1 7 0 g green peas, cooked 2 . Bringthewatertoaboilandaddthesalt.
V / 2 o z/4 3 g thinly sliced green onion 3.Lightlybutteram ediumrondeau.Prepareparch­
4 piquillo chiles, cut into julienne mentpaperandaluminumfoiltouseasacoverfor
therondeau.
1 .Peelanddeveintheshrim
p,reservingtheshells. 4.M elttheremainingbutterinasmallsaucepotand
Sautetheshellsin2tbsp/30mLoftheoiluntilthey addthemilkandsaffron.Setasidetosteep.
turnpink.Addthesaffronandstockandsimmerfor 5.A ddthericetotherapidlyboilingwater,cover,and
30minutes. Strainandreservehot. cookfor7minutes. Drainthericeinacolanderand
2 . Seasonthechickenwithsaltandpepper.Pour2 transfertothebutteredrondeau.
tbsp/30mLoftheoilintoapaellapanandheatto 6. Ladletheinfusedmilkoverthericeandtosslightly
thesmokepoint.Addthechickenandbrownonall withaforktocombine.Donotstir.
sides. Removefromthepanandreserve. 7.Tightlycovertherondeauw ithparchmentpaperand
3.Pourtherem ainingoilintothepanandaddtheon­ thenaluminumfoil.
ion,andpeppers. Sauteovermediumheatfor2to3 8. Bakeina400°F/204°Covenfor15minutes.
minutes.Addthegarlicandsautefor1minute.Add
thechorizoandrice,stirringtocoatthericewiththe 9 .Allowthericetorestfor5m inutesuncovered,fluff
oil. itwithafork,andserveimmediatelyorholdhotfor
4 .A ddthetomatoesandthereservedstock.Addthe service.
chickenandanyjuicesitreleased.Addtheclams.
Coverthepan,reducetheheat,andcookuntilall
theclamshaveopened,about5minutes. Donotstir
thericeduringthecookingprocess.

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
IBS
 grain and legume recipes
Grilled Vegetable Z. Coverandcookuntilthevegetablesbegintosoften,
about10minutes.Addthetomatoeswiththeirjuic­
Jambalaya es,thestock,oregano,salt,andbayleavesandstir
Makes 10 servings untilcombined.Addthebasil,thyme,Worcester­
shire,andhotsauceandbringtoasimmer. Reserve
3 fl o z/9 0 mL olive oil, plus as needed for grilling thejambalayasimmeringliquidwarm.
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g onions, minced 3. Preparethezucchini,yellowsquash,redpeppers,
1 lb /4 5 4 g green peppers, seeded, cut into small dice redonions,andeggplantforgrillingbylightlybrush­
ingthemwitholiveoilandseasoningbothsides
1 lb /4 5 4 g celery, cut into small dice
liberallywithBBQspicerub.Reserve.
3 garlic cloves, minced
4 . Com binethericeinasaucepanwith36floz/i.o8L
V 2 o z/1 4 g paprika ofthejambalayasimmeringliquid.Covertightly
'/ 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper andbringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Finish
Pinch ground white pepper
cookingthericeina350°F/i77°Covenuntiltherice
ischewy-tender, 10to12minutes. Reservetherice
Pinch cayenne
warm.
BBQ. Spice Rub (recipe follows)
5. Tofinishthedish,grillthezucchini,yellowsquash,
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g plum tomatoes, redpeppers,redonions,andeggplantuntiltender.
seeded, cut into medium dice
Holdinawarmoven.
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Vegetable Stock (page 265)
6. Mixthecookedriceintothejambalayabaseover
1 tb sp /6 g dried oregano mediumheat.Adjustseasoningwithsalt,pepper,
Salt, as needed andBBQspicemixandholdinawarmoven.
2 bay leaves 7. Plateeachportionofthejam balayainalarge,
flatbowl.Topwith1slicezucchini, 1sliceyellow
V* cup/120 mL basil chiffonade
squash,onequarterofaredpepper, 1sliceredon­
1 tb sp /3 g chopped thyme ion,and1sliceeggplant.
V / 2 ts p /7.50 mL Worcestershire sauce 8. Garnisheachportionwith2tbsp/30mLgreen
1 tb s p /1 5 mL hot sauce onions.
12 o z/3 4 0 g zucchini, cut on the bias
V i in/1 cm thick (10 slices)
BBQSpice Rub
12 o z/3 4 0 g yellow squash, cut on the
Makes 3A cup
bias Vz in/1 cm thick (10 slices)

2 V i red peppers, quartered (10 quarters) V 2 cup/80 g salt

2 red onions, sliced into V H n /l-c m rounds (10 slices) V* cup/28 g paprika or pimenton

1 eggplant, peeled, sliced into V / 2 ts p /3 g onion powder

V H n /l-c m rounds (10 slices)
V / 2 ts p /3 g garlic powder
3 cups short-grain rice (sushi-style)
1 ts p /2 g cayenne
GARNISH
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
1 bunch green onions, thinly sliced
V 2 ts p /1 g ground white pepper

1. Heattheoliveoilinarondeauoverhighheat. Gen­ Combinealltheingredientsandmixwell. Reserve

tlysautetheonions,peppers,celery,garlic,paprika, inanairtightcontainer.
blackandwhitepeppers,cayenne,andltbsp/15mL
oftheBBQspicerubuntillightlybrowned,about3
minutes.

chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S 791
 Rice Croquettes
Makes 10 servings
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g Basic Boiled Rice (page
785) or Risotto (page 783)
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL heavy Bechamel Sauce (page 295)
3 o z/8 5 g grated Parmesan
3 egg yolks
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
7 o z/1 9 8 g bread crumbs, or as needed
3 o z/8 5 g cornmeal, or as needed
8 o z/2 2 7 g all-purpose flour
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023), or as needed
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
1. Blendthepreparedricew
iththebechamel,cheese,
andeggyolks. Seasonwithsaltandpepper. Spread
themixtureinanevenlayeronabuttered,parch­
ment-linedsheetpan.Placeasheetofplasticwrap
overthemixtureandrefrigerateforseveralhoursor
overnighttochillandfirmtherice.
2 . Com binethebreadcrumbsandcornmeal. Cutthe
riceinthedesiredshape,dredgeitintheflour,and
shakeofftheexcess. Dipthecroquettesintotheegg
wash,thenintothebreadcrumbmixture.
3. H eattheoilto350°F/i77°Cinaheavydeeppotand
deepfrythecroquettesuntilgoldenbrown,5to6
minutes. Drainbrieflyonpapertowelsandserve
immediately.
792 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A ST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Basic Polenta
Makes 10 servings
5 q t/4 .8 0 L water
Salt, as needed
1 q t/9 6 0 mL coarse yellow cornmeal
2 o z/5 7 g butter
Ground black pepper, as needed
1. Bringthewatertoaboilovermediumheatina
heavy-bottomedmediumstockpotandseasonwith
salt.
2 . Pourthecornm ealintothewaterinastream,stir­
ringconstantlyuntilithasallbeenadded.Reduce
theheattolow.Simmer,stirringoften,untilthepo­
lentapullsawayfromthesidesofthepot,about45
minutes. Itshouldnottastestarchyorgritty.
3. Rem ovethepotfromtheheatandblendinthebut­
ter. Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
4 . Serveim mediatelyassoftpolentaorholdwarmun­
tilservice.
NOTE: For firm polenta, decrease the amount o f water to 1
gal/3.84 L. A fte r blending the bu tte r into the polenta,
spread the m ixture onto a greased or plastic wrap-lined
half sheet pan and refrigerate until cool enough to cut
into desired shapes. Finish by sauteing, pan frying,
grilling, or baking.
Polenta with Parmesan: S ubstitute Chicken Stock (page
263) fo r the water. Sweat Vi oz/1 4 g minced shallot
and 1 tb s p /9 g minced garlic in 1 o z /2 8 g bu tte r until
aromatic, about 3 minutes. Add the stock and cook the
polenta according to the above method. Remove the pot
from the heat and s tir in 3 egg yolks and 2 oz/57 g grated
Parmesan.

Grits w ith Corn and
Makes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g coarse white grits
2 q t/1 .9 2 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
2 tb s p /3 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
9 3/ t o z/2 7 6 g minced onion
'/ 2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic
IO V 2 o z/2 9 8 g seeded, minced poblano chile
5 o z/1 4 2 g seeded, minced red pepper
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
1 lb 9 o z/7 0 9 g corn kernels, fresh or thawed frozen
1 lb 7 o z/6 5 2 g cooked and drained hominy
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
GARNISH
8 o z/2 2 7 g diced tomatoes
2 V i o z/7 1 g Monterey Jack, shredded
1. Com
binethegritsandstockinaheavypotandbring
toaboilovermediumheat. Lowertheheat,cover,
andsimmeruntilthegritsaretender,45to50
minutes.
2 .M eanwhile,heattheoilinalargesautepanover
mediumheat.Addtheonionsandsauteuntiltrans­
lucent,4to5minutes.
3.A ddthegarlic,poblanos,andredpeppers. Coverand
cookoverlowheatuntilthepeppersaresoftened,
about10minutes. Seasonwithsalt.
4 . Stirinthegritsandsauteuntilcom bined,about1
minute. Fluffwithaforkandstirinthecornand
hominy.Gentlyheatthrough.
5. Cover,rem ovefromtheheat,andletstandfor5
minutes. Seasonwithpepper.Garnisheachserving
with2tbsp/23gtomatoesandV oz/7gcheese,and
4
servewarm.
grain and legume recipes
■e
Makes 10 servings
1 g al/3 .8 4 L water
2-in /5-cm piece ginger, crushed
1 lb /4 5 4 g skinless, boneless chicken thighs
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g long-grain white rice
1 tb s p /1 5 mL fish sauce
Salt, as needed
CONDIMENTS
2 f I o z/6 0 mL soy sauce
2 tb s p /3 0 mL fish sauce
2 tb s p /3 0 mL chili sauce
2 tb sp /2 g dried shrimp
3 tb sp /9 g roughly chopped cilantro
1 shallot, sliced
1 o z/2 8 g toasted peanuts, crushed
1. Putthew
aterandgingerinalargepotandbringto
aboil.Addthechickenandsimmeruntilcooked
through,about20minutes. Removethechicken
fromtheliquid,cooltoroomtemperature,andshred
intobite-sizepieces. Reservethechickenunder
refrigeration.
2 . Rem ovethegingerfromtheliquidanddiscard.
Returntheliquidtomediumheat.Addthericein
athinstream,stirringitwithaforktopreventthe
grainsfromclumpingastheyareadded.Whenthe
waterreturnstoaboil,reducetheheattoasimmer
andcover.
3. Sim merthericeuntiltender,about25minutes.Add
thefishsauceandsalt.Adjusttheconsistencywith
water,ifnecessary;thecongeeshouldbesoupy.
4 .A ddthechickenmeattothecongee. Sprinklethe
condimentsoverthericeandserveimmediately.
chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S 795
M illet and Cauliflower 1 sprig thyme

8 black peppercorns
Puree 1 sprig parsley
Makes10servings 2 tb s p /2 0 g s a lt

B tb sp /4 5 mL extra-virgin olive oil V2ts p /1 g ground black pepper

14 o z/3 9 7 g cauliflower

i r / 4 o z / 3 1 9 g millet
1 tb sp /1 0 g salt
]Ats p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper
33 fl o z/9 9 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
I V 2 fl o z/4 5 mL heavy cream
1 o z/2 8 g Roasted Garlic (page 634)
1. H
eattheoilinalargepotovermediumheat.Add
thecauliflowerandsauteuntilgoldenbrown,4to5
minutes.Addthemilletandstirconstantlyuntilit
turnsgolden,about3minutesmore.
2 . Seasonwiththesaltandpepper.A ddthestockand
bringtoaboilovermediumheat.Lowertheheatto
medium-lowandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,until
themilletistenderandbursts,about30minutes.
3. Rem ovefromtheheat.Addthecreamandgarlic.
4 .W orkinginbatchesifnecessary,pureethemillet
mixtureinafoodprocessororblender. Ifthemix­
tureistoothick,addmorestockasneeded.
5. Ifthepureehascooled,returnittothepanandstir
overlowheattoheatthrough.Servewarm.
1 . Rinsetheryeberries,w
heatberries,wildrice,and
pearlbarleytogetherinastrainer.Drainwell.
2.. H eattheoilinalargepotovermediumheat.Add
theonionsandcookuntiltranslucent,4to5min­
utes.Addthegarlicandcookuntilfragrant,about1
minutemore.
3.A ddthegrains,stock,bayleaf,thyme,peppercorns,
parsley,salt,andpepper.Bringtoaboilovermedi­
umheat,cover,andsimmeroverlowheatuntilsoft,
about1V2hours. Iftheliquidisnotentirelygone,
increasetheheatandcook,uncovered,for5to10
minuteslonger,stirringfrequently.
4 .Allowthefinishedpilaftorestfor5m inutes.Fluff
withaforkandserveimmediatelyorholdforservice.
Green Onion-Bulgur
Pilaf
Makes10servings
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g coarse-grain bulgur

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil

10 o z/2 8 4 g sliced green onions

Mixed Grain Pilaf 1 o z/2 8 g tomato paste

Makes10servings 3 3/ t q t/3 .6 0 L water

I V 2 ts p /3 g sweet paprika
9V2 o z/2 69 g rye berries
V/2ts p /3 g hot paprika
6V2o z/1 8 4 g wheat berries Salt, as needed
4'/2 o z/1 2 8 g wild rice
Ground black pepper, as needed
5 V i o z/1 5 6 g pearl barley

1 fl o z/3 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 1. W

ash,rinse,anddrainthebulgurinafine-mesh
5 o z/1 4 2 g red onion, minced sieve.
2 tb sp /1 8 g minced garlic 2 .H eathalfoftheoilinamediumsaucepanover
2 'A q t/2 .4 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263) medium-highheat.Addthegreenonionsandsaute
1 bay leaf
for30secondsto1minute.

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
 . Stirinthetomatopasteandcookovermediumheat,
30secondsto1minute.
.Addthebulgurandsauteovermedium-highheat,
stirringfrequently,untilcoatedwithtomatopaste
andheatedthrough,2to3minutes.
.Addthewaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.
Addthepaprikasandseasonwithsaltandpepper.
Green O nion-Bulgur Pilaf
. Simmerthebulgurmixture,covered,untilallthe
waterisabsorbed,about20minutes.
.Allowthebulgurtorestfor10minutes.Gentlydress
itwiththeremainingoil.
. Serveimmediatelyorholdhotforservice.
W heat Berry Salad w ith Oranges, Cherries, and Pecans

Kasha with Spicy
Maple Pecans
Makes 10 servings
2 egg whites, lightly beaten
14 o z /3 9 7 g kasha
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Chicken Stock (page
2 6 3) or Vegetable Stock (page 265)
Salt, as needed
l '/ 2 o z/4 3 g butter
3 o z/8 5 g toasted pecans, chopped
2 f I o z/6 0 mL maple syrup
Cayenne, as needed
1. Com
binetheeggwhitesandkashainamedium
saucepanandcookoverlowheat,stirringconstantly,
for2minutes,untildryandlightlybrown.
2 .A ddthestock,salt,andbuttertothekashaandbring
toaboiloverhighheat. Reducetheheattolowand
simmer,covered,forabout15minutes,oruntilthe
kashaistendertothebite.
3. Rem ovefromtheheatandletsteamforabout5min­
utes.Uncoverandfluffthekashabyliftingitgently
withtwoforkstobreakupanylumps.
4 .W hilethekashasteams,combinethepecans,maple
syrup,andcayenneinasmallsautepan.Heatover
lowheatuntilthepecansarewellcoatedandthe
maplesyruphasreducedtoaverythickconsistency.
5. Scatterthespicedpecansoverthekashaandserve
immediatelyorholdhotforservice.
grain and legume recipes
Wheat Berry Salad
with Oranges,
Cherries, and Pecans
Makes 10 servings
17'/2 o z/4 9 6 g oranges, supremed
(see page 891), juices reserved
1 ts p /3 g chopped thyme
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g chopped rosemary
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g chopped sage
2 fl o z/6 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
2 tb s p /3 0 mL champagne vinegar
l'/2 ts p /5 g s a lt
V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
12 o z/3 4 0 g wheat berries, cooked
2 o z/5 7 g dried cherries, plus as needed
2'/2 o z/7 1 g pecans, toasted
1. Whisktogethertheorangejuice,thyme,rosemary,
sage,oil,andvinegarinalargebowl.Seasonwith
thesaltandpepper.
2 .A ddthewheatberries,cherries,pecans,andorange
supremes.Tosstocombine.
3. Garnishwithadditionalcherriesandpecans, if
desired.
chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S 799
 Barley Salad with Sweet and Spicy
Cucumber and Mint Bulgur Salad
Makes 10 servings Makes 10 servings

9V2 o z / 2 6 9 g pearl barley 2 tb sp /3 0 mL olive oil

8 o z/2 2 7 g tomatoes, peeled, seeded, 1 lb /4 5 4 g cherry tomatoes

and cut into small dice
V/2 o z/4 3 g drained oil-packed
7 '/t o z/2 0 6 g cucumber, peeled, sun-dried tomatoes, minced
seeded, and cut into small dice
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
7 o z/1 9 8 g eggplant, roasted, peeled,
1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic
and cut into small dice
12 o z/3 4 0 g bulgur
3 o z/8 5 g chopped parsley
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL water
V* oz/21 g chopped mint
1 lb 9 o z/7 0 9 g arugula
VA o z/3 5 g thinly sliced green onion
1 ts p /2 g red pepper flakes
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
3 tb sp /4 5 mL lime juice
4Vz f I o z/1 3 5 mL lemon juice

1 tb sp /9 g grated lemon zest

Vao z/21 g honey

lt s p /3 g s a lt
V2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper

Va ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper

1. H
eattheoliveoilinalargesautepan.Addthecher­
1. Putthebarleyinabow
landcoverwithcoldwater. rytomatoesandcookovermedium-highheatuntil
Soakfor30minutes. softened,2to3minutes.
2 .A ddthesun-driedtomatoesandcontinuecooking
2 .D rainthebarleywell.Transferittoamediumpot, for2to3minuteslonger,untiltender. Seasonwith
coverwithsaltedwater,andbringtoaboiloverhigh salt.
heat. Reducetheheattolowandsimmeruntilten­
der,40to50minutes. 3. Reducetheheattom edium-low.Addthegarlicand
3. Drainthebarleyandrinsewithcoldw ater. Drain bulgurandsauteuntilfragrant, 1to2minutes.
wellandcoolcompletely. 4 .A ddthewaterandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.
4 . Tosstogetherthebarley,tom atoes,cucumbers,egg­ Reducetheheattolowandsimmeruntilthebulgur
plant,parsley,mint,andgreenonionsinalargebowl istender,10to15minutes.
tocombine. 5. Fluffwithafork.Gentlyfoldinthearugula.Season
5.W hisktogethertheoliveoil,lemonjuice, lemon withtheredpepperflakes,limejuice, honey,and
zest,salt,andpepperinasmallbowl. blackpepper.Tosstocombine. Servewarm.
6. Pourthedressingoverthebarleymixtureandtoss
tocoat. Serveimmediatelyorchilluntilneededfor
service.

800 VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

mm

Cracked Wheat and
Tomato Salad
Makes10servings
12 o z/3 4 0 g cracked wheat
2 lb /9 0 7 g tomatoes, peeled, seeded,
and cut into medium dice
8 o z/2 2 7 g red onion, cut into medium dice
3 o z/8 5 g fresh mozzarella, cut into medium dice
3 tb sp /4 5 mL red wine vinegar
7 fl o z/2 1 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
2 tb sp /6 g chopped oregano
V i o z/1 4 g chopped basil
2 ts p /4 g red pepper flakes
lt s p /3 g s a lt
V* ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper
VAo z/4 3 g finely grated Parmesan (optional)
1. Placethecrackedw
heatinamediumpot,cover
withsaltedwater,andsimmeruntiltender,30to35
minutes. Removefromtheheatanddrain,pressing
toreleaseanyexcessmoisture. Letcooltoroomtem
perature.
2.. Tossthetom atoes,onion,andmozzarellainalarge
bowltocombine.
3.W hisktogetherthevinegar,oliveoil,oregano,basil,
andpepperflakesinasmallbowl.Seasonwiththe
saltandpepper.Addtothetomatomixtureandtoss
tocoat.Addthewheatandtosswell.
4 . Serveatroomtem peratureorchilluntilneededfor
service. Ifdesired,garnishwiththeParmesan.
Cracked W heat and Tomato Salad
grain and legume recipes
Amaranth Pancakes
Makes10servings
10 o z/2 8 4 g whole amaranth
1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g all-purpose flour
1 ts p /3 g baking powder
1 ts p /3 g salt
4 V 2 o z/1 2 8 g sugar
1 lb /4 5 4 g eggs
1 q t/9 6 0 mL buttermilk
2 f I o z/6 0 mL melted butter
Vegetable oil or clarified butter, as needed
1. Heatalargedrysautepanoverm
edium-highheat
andaddtheamaranth,shakingthepantomakea
singlelayer.Cook,stirringoccasionallytoprevent
browning,untilthegrainsbegintopop.Continueto
cookuntilthepoppingslowsdown.Removefrom
theheatandsetasidetocool.
2..Com binethecooledamaranth,flour,bakingpowder,
salt,andsugarinalargebowl.Makeawellinthe
center.
3. Com binetheeggsandbuttermilkandmixwell.Pour
allatonceintothecenterofthedryingredients.
Slowlymixwithawhiskinacontrolledcircular
motion.
4 .A ddthebutterwhenaboutthree-quartersofthedry
ingredientsaremoistened.Continuetomixonly
untilthebutterisworkedin.Donotovermix.
5. Keepthebattercool, ifm akinglargebatches,by
holdingitinanicewaterbath,orbydividingand
keepingtheextrabatterintherefrigerator.
6. Heatalargesautepanorgriddlepanovermedium
heatandlightlygreaseitwithvegetableoil.
7. Ladleapproxim ately2V2 floz/75mLofthebatter
intothepanforeachpancake.Whenbubblesontop
breakandthebottomisgoldenbrown,1to2min­
utes,turnover.Finishcookingonthesecondside.
Repeatwithremainingbatterandservewarm.
Chapter 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S 803
 Saigon Crepes Fontina Risotto
Makes10servings
Fritters
1 o z/2 8 g yellow split mung beans Makes10servings
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL unsweetened coconut milk
FRITTERS
8 flo z /2 4 0 m L w a te r
3 lb 4 o z/1.47 kg chilled Risotto (page 783)
i r / 4 oz/B19 g rice flour
2 o z/5 7 g grated Parmesan
1/2 o z /1 4 g sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp /B g s a lt
2 ts p /4 g red pepper flakes
1 ts p /2 g ground turmeric

l'Ao z/3 5 g minced green onion Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

1 o z/2 8 g chopped cilantro stems and roots
1 lb /4 5 4 g fontina, cut into 1 /4 in/6-m m cubes
Oil, as needed

8 'Ao z/2 3 4 g bean sprouts

V2 o z/1 4 g cilantro leaves 5 o z/1 4 2 g bread crumbs

Cilantro-Lime Soy Sauce (page I V 2 o z/4 3 g grated Parmesan

956) or Sriracha, as needed.
14 o z/3 9 7 g all-purpose flour, or as needed

1 .Toastthem
ungbeanslightlyinadrypanovermod­ 4 eggs, beaten

erateheattodevelopanuttyaroma. Vegetable oil, as needed for frying

2.. Soakthebeansinw atertocoveruntiltheysoften,8

hoursorovernight.
3. Drainthebeansandcom binewiththecoconutmilk,
water,riceflour,sugar,salt,andturmericinablend­
er.Pureeuntilsmooth.Strainintoabowl.
4 . Stirinthegreenonionsandcilantrostem sand
roots.
5. H eata6-in/i5-cmcrepepanovermedium-highheat
withasmallamountofoil. Pour4floz/120mLbat­
terintothehotpan.Pressafewsproutsandcilantro
leavesintotherawsideofthepancake. Drizzlea
smallamountofoilontothesproutsandherbs.
6. Cookovermedium-highheatforabout4minutes,
nicelybrowningthebottom.Flipandcooktheother
sideuntillightlybrown,3to4minutes. Repeatwith
theremainingbatter.
7.Turnouteachcrepeontoacuttingboardandfoldto
formacrescent.Cutintothirdsandservethethree
1 .Tom
akethefritters,mixtherisotto,Parmesan,eggs,
andredpepperflakesinamediumbowl.Season
withsaltandpepper,ifnecessary(seeNote).
2.. W rapabout1V2oz/43gchilledrisottoaroundapiece
offontinaandrolltomakeasmallball.Repeatwith
theremainingrisottoandcheese.Placetheballs
ontoabakingsheet,cover,andrefrigerateuntil
needed.
3. Com binethebreadcrumbsandParmesan.Coat
thechilledrisottoballswiththeflour,eggs,andthe
breadcrumbmixtureusingthestandardbreading
procedute(seepage365). Repeatwiththeremaining
fritters.
4.H eattheoilinadeepfryerto350°F/i77°C.Frythe
frittersuntiltheyaregoldenbrownandrisetothe
surface,5to7minutes. Servewarm.
NOTE: Salt and pepper may not be needed if the riso tto is

piecesoverlappedwithavegetariandippingsauce. seasoned.

804 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S


Corn and Asiago
Cheese Risotto Cakes
Makes10servings
2 tb s p /3 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
5 3/» o z/1 6 3 g minced onion
r /2 o z/4 3 g small-dice celery
1 ts p /3 g minced garlic
1 lb /4 5 4 g Arborio rice
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL white wine
36 fl o z/1 .0 8 L Vegetable Stock (page 265)
6 ears corn, kernels removed from the cobs
3 o z/8 5 g thinly sliced green onion
2 tb sp /6 g chopped chives
2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley
4 o z /1 13 g Asiago cheese, grated
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL heavy cream
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
Vi tsp /1 g ground black pepper
8 o z/2 2 7 g all-purpose flour
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2’/ t o z/6 4 g bread crumbs
SAUCE
2 tb s p /3 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
2 o z/5 7 g onion, cut into small dice
1 ts p /3 g minced garlic
10 o z/2 8 4 g fennel, cut into small dice
1 sprig thyme
3 sprigs parsley
1 bay leaf
18 f I o z/5 4 0 mL Vegetable Stock
(page 265), or as needed
2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice
1 ts p /3 g salt
Ground black pepper, as needed
Vegetable oil, as needed for frying
grain and legume recipes
1 .Heattheoliveoilinam
ediumpotovermedium-
highheat.Addtheonion,celery,andgarlicand
sweatuntiltender,4to5minutes.Addthericeand
cookfor2to3minutesmore.
2 .A ddthewine,reducetheheattolow,andbringto
asimmer.Cook,stirringfrequently,untiltherice
absorbsthewine.
3.Usingaladle,addthestockprogressively,andstir
untilthestockisabsorbedbeforeaddingmore.
Continueuntilthericeisnearlytender, 15to20
minutes.
4 .Stirinthecorn,greenonions,chives,andparsley
andcooktoheatthrough,about2minutesmore.
5.Foldinthecheese. Stirinthecream . Seasonwith
thesaltandpepper.
6. Lightlygreaseahalfsheetpanandspreadtheri­
sottointothepaninanevenlayer.Cooltherisotto
for10minutesatroomtemperature,thencover
andtransfertotherefrigeratorandcoolforatleast
1hour.
7.Usea4to5-in/ioto13-cmroundcuttertocutthe
risottointocakes.Coatthecakeswiththeflour,
eggs,andbreadcrumbsusingthestandardbread­
ingprocess(seepage365). Placethebreadedcakes
onaparchment-linedsheetpanandcoveruntil
readytofry.
8. Tomakethesauce,heattheoliveoilinamedium
potovermediumheat.Addtheonionsandsweat
untiltender,4to5minutes.Addthegarlicand
sauteuntilfragrant,about1minutemore.
9 .A ddthefennel,thyme,parsley,andbayleaf.Cover
themixturewiththestockandbringtoasimmer.
Simmeruntilthevegetablesareverysoft,about10
minutes.
10.Removethethymeandparsleystemsandthebay
leaf.Pureethemixtureinablenderorfoodproces­
soruntilsmooth,addingmorestockasneeded.
Seasonthesaucewithlemonjuice,salt,andpep­
per. Reserve.
11 .Heatasm allsautepanwithabout%in/2cmveg­
etableoilovermediumheatuntiltheoilreaches
350°F/i77°C.Panfrytherisottocakesuntilgolden
brownoneachside,about3minutesperside.
12 .Servethecakeswiththesauce.
NOTE: The ris o tto cakes can also be de ep fried .
c h a p te r 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S 805
 Wild Rice Cakes 1. H
eatthebutterinalargesautepanovermedium
Makes 10 servings
heat.Addtheceleryandpepperandsauteuntilten­
der,4to5minutes. Removefromtheheatandlet
RICE CAKES
cooltoroomtemperature.
1 o z/2 8 g butter
2 . Inalargebow l,mixthegreenonions,garlic,ginger,
hotsauce,eggs,mayonnaise,sourcream,chives,and
13 o z/3 6 9 g minced celery
hominytocombine. Pureeone-thirdofthemixture
11 o z/3 1 2 g minced red pepper tocreateabinder.
r /2 o z/4 3 g thinly sliced green onions 3. Returnthepureedm ixturebacktothebowlandstir
’/2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic inthewildrice,flour,andthecooledcelerymixture.
'/2 o z/1 4 g minced ginger
Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
2 tb s p /3 0 mL hot sauce
4 . Formthericem ixtureinto2-oz/57-gcakesthatare
approximatelyx/i in/1.25cmthick.Coatthecakes
2 eggs
withtheflour,eggs,andpankousingthestandard
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 9 0 3 or purchased) breadingprocedure(seepage365).
11 fl o z/3 3 0 mL sour cream 5. HeataboutlAin/6m moilovermediumheat. Fry
'/2 o z/1 4 g chopped chives thecakesuntilgoldenbrownandcrisp,3to5min­
8 o z/2 2 7 g canned hominy, drained and rinsed
utesperside. Serveimmediately.
1 lb 13 o z/8 2 2 g cooked wild rice

15 o z/4 2 5 g all-purpose flour

1 o z/2 8 g salt

1 tb sp /6 g ground black pepper

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 all-purpose flour

4 eggs, beaten

4 o z /1 1 3 g p a n k o

Vegetable oil, as needed for frying

806 VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

The immense popularity of pastas and dumplings is not at all surprising.
Nutritious and highly versatile, these foods are an important element of most
cuisines. They are based on ingredients that are inexpensive and easy to store
flour or meal, and eggs. They adapt well to a number of uses and can be found
on contemporary menus as appetizers, entrees, salads, and even desserts.
 T h e f o r m u l a f o r f r e s h p a s t a m a y be t h o u g h t o f a s t h e b a s e r e c ip e t o p r o d u c e a s t if f d o u g h

T H A T C A N BE E N D L E S S L Y V A R I E D TO P R O D U C E M Y R I A D S H A P E S , F L A V O R S , A N D C O L O R S . T h e G E N E R A L

C A T E G O R Y O F P A S T A I N C L U D E S B O T H D R I E D A N D F R E S H N O O D L E S . P A S T A M A Y BE P R E P A R E D F R E S H O N

T H E P R E M I S E S O R P U R C H A S E D E I T H E R F R E S H OR D R I E D . T H E R E A R E A D V A N T A G E S TO B O T H F R E S H A N D

D R I E D P A S T A S . F r E S H P A S T A G I V E S T H E C H E F F R E E D O M TO C R E A T E D I S H E S W I T H S P E C I A L F L A V O R S ,

C O L O R S , S H A P E S , O R F I L L I N G S , B U T I T H A S A L I M I T E D S H E L F L I F E . D R I E D P A S T A C A N BE S T O R E D A L M O S T

IN D E FIN ITE LY .

making fresh
pasta, noodles,
and dumplings
Changing th e ra tio o f flo u r to liquid or in tro d u cin g o th e r in g re d ie n ts in to a basic pasta f o r ­
mula produces doughs and b a tte rs th a t are handled and cooked d iffe re n tly fro m the base
recipe. For exam ple, th e am ount o f liquid can be increased to cre a te a s o ft b a tte r fo r spa t-
zle. This b a tte r is cut o f f a spa tzle board o r dropped throu gh a colander or spa tzle m aker
in to sim m e ring liquid, ra th e r than ro lle d or e xtrud ed as f o r a th ic k e r pasta dough.
A dding a leavener to the basic pasta fo rm u la produces a s o ft b a tte r th a t can be used
f o r la rge r dum plings w ith a b re a d -like te x tu re th a t are sim m ered in a stew or o th e r liq ­
uid. A ltho ug h th e te rm "dum pling" may mean som e th in g very sp e c ific to an in dividu al or
p a rtic u la r ethnic group, it a ctu a lly is a very broad cate gory. Some dum plings are based on
doughs and b a tte rs , and o th e rs on in gre die nts ranging fro m bread to pureed p o ta to e s. The
popular Chinese dim sum, including steam ed yea st doughs and frie d egg rolls, is ye t an­
o th e r category. D um plings may be cooked in d iffe re n t ways, according to type . They may
be sim m ered in liquid, steam ed, poached, baked, pa n -frie d , o r d e e p -frie d . A v a rie ty o f in­
g re d ie n ts can be used. See the recipes included in th is ch a p te r f o r sp e c ific in stru ctio n s.
Because flo u r provides th e s tru c tu re in pasta, it is im p o rta n t to choose one th a t has
the necessary q u a litie s f o r m aking the be st possible dough. A ll-p u rp o se flo u rs can be used
succe ssfully fo r m ost fre s h pasta. W hole w heat flou r, sem olina, cornm eal, b uckw heat flou r,
rye flo u r, ground legum es (chickpeas, f o r instance), and o th e r special flo u rs and meals can
be used to replace a p o rtio n o f th e all-pu rpo se flo u r, g ivin g th e pasta unique flavo r, te x tu re ,
and color. E xp e rim e n ta tio n is o fte n the be st way to de te rm in e how to use special flo u rs.
R efer to th e recipes in th is ch a p te r fo r guidance on types, ratio s, and su b s titu tio n s .

808 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 making fresh pasta, noodles, and dumplings
Eggs are fre q u e n tly included in fre s h pasta to pro vid e m oistu re, flavo r, and stru ctu re .
D iffe re n t fo rm u la s may sp e cify th e use o f w hole eggs, yolks, o r w h ites. Because it is es­
p e cia lly im p o rta n t to have th e p ro p e r am ount o f m o istu re , m any recipes call fo r water.
Doughs th a t are to o dry or to o m o is t are d iff ic u lt to ro ll out.
N e u tra l o r fla v o re d oil is o fte n used in pasta doughs to keep th e dough pliab le and easy
to w o rk w ith .
A dding s a lt to the dough helps to develop flavo r. A d d itio n a l in gre die nts, such as herbs,
veg etab le purees, or c itru s zest, may be added to fre s h pasta dough to change its color,
fla vo r, o r te x tu re . If the se added fla v o rin g o r co lo rin g in g re d ie n ts con tain a lo t o f m oisture,
it is necessary to ad ju st the basic fo rm u la , by e ith e r using a d d itio n a l flo u r o r less water.
V egetable purees used fo r fla v o r o r co lo r are o fte n dried s lig h tly by cooking in an open
vessel in o rd e r to co n ce n tra te th e ir fla vo rs.
Fresh pasta and noodles can be covered and re frig e ra te d f o r up to tw o days. If the
pasta is cut in long strands, sprinkle it w ith cornm eal, sem olina, o r rice flo u r to keep the
strand s fro m s tic k in g to g e th e r. Hold th e pasta on tra y s lined w ith p la s tic wrap, and cover
it w ith p la s tic w rap as well. Filled pastas should be held on pa rch m e n t-lin e d sheet trays,
arranged so th a t th e y are n o t to u ch in g each other.
If th e pasta is to be sto re d f o r m ore than tw o days, ro ll long strand s o f n o n fille d pastas
in to loose nests and arrange the m on pa rch m e n t-lin e d she et trays. S et th e tra y s in a warm,
d ry place f o r several days, u n til th e pasta has hardened and dried. Once dried, pasta may
be held, w ell w rapped, in a cool, d ry place th e same w ay as com m e rcial dried pastas. Fresh
pasta, esp ecially fille d pastas such as to r te llin i and ravioli, may also be fro ze n success­
fu lly .
E quipm ent needs f o r fre s h pasta are ve ry basic, though a fe w special pieces o f eq uip­
m ent can make th e jo b even sim pler. A t th e very least, you w ill need your hands, a ro llin g
pin, and a knife . Or use an e le c tric m ixe r w ith a dough hook o r a fo o d processor to m ix the
dough, and a p a s ta -ro llin g machine to ro ll it out. C u ttin g a tta c h m e n ts th a t re s u lt in un iform
cu ts o f pasta are available f o r ro llin g machines.

ch a p te r 25 » C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S 809
 D basic formula

Fresh Pasta 4 whole eggs Oil

(10 portions)
1 to 2 tbsp/15 to 30 mL water Other flavoring or garnishing
1 lb/454 g "00" pasta flour ingredients as desired
or all-purpose flour Salt

method
at-a-glance
1. Mound all the dry expert tips Q
ingredients on a work
surface and make a well in
the center. Making fresh pasta is exciting not only because of its fresh flavor
and tender texture but also because it provides another opportunity to intro­
2. Combine all the wet
duce flavor to a dish.
ingredients and pour them
into the well. Use d iffe re n t flours in combination with all-purpose flour to cre­
3. Working rapidly, pull the ate flavor:
dry ingredients into the
B UCKW HEAT / C O R N M E A L / RICE / R YE / S E M O L IN A / W H O LE W HEAT
wet ingredients, mixing
them together to form a
rough dough. Add flaVOr to pasta dough during mixing with the addition of
herbs, spices, flavored or infused liquids, and vegetable purees:
4. Knead the dough until it
is smooth, and let it rest FLAVO RED OR IN FU S E D L IQ U ID S / S Q U ID INK

before rolling it out.

HERBS AND SPICES:

B A SIL / P A R S LE Y / SAGE / S A FFR O N / D RIED HERBS SUCH AS R O S E M A R Y

VEGETABLE PUREES:

C ARROT / SP IN A C H / TO M ATO

For a dramatic effect, whole herbs and even edible flowers can
be rolled between two pieces of pasta:

B A SIL LEAVES / C H E R V IL LEAVES / PA R S L E Y LEAVES

For a healthier option: Use whole grains whenever possible, as

they have increased health benefits: less refined whole wheat or other flours
can be used to make fresh pasta.

810 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 making fresh pasta
1. mix pasta dough by hand o r by
machine. For sm all batches, it may be ju s t as e ffic ie n t to
m ix th e dough m anually. Large batches, on th e o th e r hand,
can be made much m ore ea sily w ith a fo o d p ro ce sso r or
e le c tric mixer.
To m ix the dough by hand, com bine the flo u r and s a lt in
a bowl o r on a w o rk surface and make a w ell in the center.
Place the eggs, fla v o rin g ingredients, and oil ( if using) in the
well. W orking as rap id ly as possible, gradually incorporate
the flo u r in to the liquid ingredients un til a loose mass form s.
To m ix in a fo o d processor, place all th e in g re d ie n ts
in th e bow l o f a fo o d p ro ce sso r f it t e d w ith a ste e l blade.
Process u n til blended. The dough should look like a coarse
m eal th a t w ill cohere when pressed in to a ball. Do not
overprocess.
To m ix in an e le c tric m ixer, place all th e in g re d ie n ts in
th e bow l o f a m ixe r f it te d w ith a dough hook. M ix a t m e­
dium speed u n til th e dough fo rm s a sm oo th ball th a t pulls
cleanly away fro m th e bowl's sides.
As the dough is mixed, adjust the consistency w ith ad­
d itio n a l flo u r or water, to com pensate fo r the variatio ns
in ingredients, hu m id ity in the kitchen, or the ad dition o f
op tio n a l fla v o rin g ingredients. On very dry days, it may be m eth o d in detail
necessary to add a fe w drops o f w a te r to reach the desired
consistency.

2. knead the dough u n til p ro p e rly de vel­

oped. L e t th e dough re s t b e fo re ro llin g and c u ttin g . Once
m ixed, w h e th e r by hand, processor, o r m ixer, th e dough
should be tu rn e d o u t o n to a flo u re d w o rk surface and
kneaded u n til th e te x tu re becom es sm o o th and elastic.

ch a p te r 25 » C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S 8ll
 3. gather and smooth the dough
in to a ball, cover, and le t it relax a t room te m p e ra tu re fo r
a t le a st 1 hour. If it is n o t s u ffic ie n tly relaxed, it w ill be
d iff ic u lt to ro ll in to th in sheets. This re s tin g phase is p a r­
tic u la rly im p o rta n t i f th e dough is to be ro lle d by hand.
E valuate th e q u a lity o f th e fin is h e d fre s h pasta dough.
In general, pasta dough should be sm ooth, fa irly elastic,
a n d ju s t s lig h tly m o is t to th e touch. If th e dough is e ith e r
ta c k y (fro m excess m o istu re ) o r c ru m b ly (to o dry), it w ill
be d iff ic u lt to ro ll o u t p ro p e rly. Experience is th e be st
guide f o r d e te rm in in g when th e p ro p e r con sisten cy has
been reached.

4. guide the pasta th ro u g h th e machine

a t th e w id e s t s e ttin g . Reduce the s e ttin g as you ro ll the
pasta to cre a te th in sheets.
Cut o f f a piece o f dough (the am ount w ill vary, de­
pending on th e w id th o f th e m achine) and fla tte n it; cover
th e rest. S et th e ro lle rs to th e w id e s t opening and begin
to guide th e dough th ro u g h th e machine to fo rm a long,
w ide s trip , lig h tly flo u rin g it as necessary to prevent
stickin g . R oll th e pasta dough in to th in sheets and cut in to
th e de sire d shapes. Hold th e dough under p la s tic w rap i f it
is n o t to be cooked im m e dia te ly.
Pasta and egg noodle doughs can be ro lle d and cut
by hand o r using a pasta machine. To ro ll by hand, fla tte n
a piece o f dough ab o u t th e size o f an orange on a flo u r-
du sted w o rk surface. Using a ro llin g pin, w o rk fro m the
ce n te r o f th e dough to th e edges w ith a b a c k -a n d -fo rth
m o tio n to ro ll and s tre tc h th e dough, tu rn in g it occasion­
ally and d u stin g it w ith flo u r, u n til it reaches th e desired
thickn ess. Once ro lle d in to sheets, the pasta can be cut
w ith a k n ife in to th in s trip s f o r f la t o r rib b o n -s ty le pastas
such as fe ttu c c in e or linguine, o r stam ped w ith c u tte rs in to
squares o r circles to make fille d pastas such as ravioli.

812 VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 making fresh pasta
5. join the two ends o f th e she et to ro ll
it in one con tinu ou s loop. In th is m etho d o f ro llin g pasta,
fo ld th e s trip in to th ird s , like a le tte r, and run it th ro u g h
the ro lle rs again. R epeat th is ste p one o r tw o tim e s, f o ld ­
ing th e dough in to th ird s each tim e . If necessary, d u s t the
dough w ith f lo u r to keep it fro m s tic k in g to th e ro lle rs and
tea ring .
Continue to ro ll th e pasta th ro u g h th e machine, s e t­
tin g th e ro lle rs a t a na rro w e r s e ttin g each tim e , u n til the
she et o f pasta is th e de sire d thickn ess. The dough should
fe e l sm oo th and n o t a t a ll ta cky. To p re ve n t drying, keep it
covered when n o t w o rk in g w ith it.
NOTE: D iffe r e n t m achines have d iffe re n t m etho ds o f
o p e ra tio n . These d ire c tio n s are f o r m aking p a s ta s he ets
w ith th e com m on tw o -ro lle r h a n d -o p e ra te d m achine.
(Tube p a sta s, such as m a ca ro n i o r z iti, are m ade by fo rc ­
ing the dough th ro u g h a sp e cia l die in an e x tru s io n p a s ta
m aker.)

6. cut the sheets of pasta using a m a­

chine a tta ch m e n t, a kn ife , o r c u tte rs . The pasta may be
cooked fre s h as is, o r placed on racks or lo ose ly fo rm e d
in to n e sts and allow ed to d ry f o r storage.

c h a p te r 25 » C O O K IN G PAST A A N D D U M P L I N G S 813
 Cook p a s ta a n d n o o d le s , b o t h fre sh and d rie d , in a la rg e am ount o f s a lte d w a te r to

E N S U R E TH E BEST FLA VO R A N D AN E V E N A N D A P P E A L IN G T E X T U R E . S O M E PASTAS A N D N O O D L E S COOK

V E R Y R A P I D L Y . O T H E R S T A K E S E V E R A L M I N U T E S TO C O O K P R O P E R L Y . I f Y O U A R E W O R K I N G W I T H A N

U N F A M I L I A R S H A P E O R S T Y L E O F C O M M E R C I A L L Y M A D E P A S T A , BE S U R E TO C O N S U L T T H E I N S T R U C T I O N S

ON T H E PACKAGE.

asta
and noo
A ll pasta has th e b e st fla v o r and te x tu re if it is served as soon as possible a fte r cooking.
This is esp ecially tru e o f fre s h pasta. However, th e re are a p p ro p ria te techniques to hold
cooked dried pastas to s tre a m lin e cooking durin g service (see H o lding Pasta f o r Service,
page 818).
Dry and fre sh pasta and noodles should be chosen according to the menu o r recipe
req uire m en ts. W a te r is th e m ost com m on cooking liquid, although some p re pa ration s may
call f o r s tock. S alt is added to th e w a te r as it comes to a boil.
For m ost pasta and noodles, choose a p o t th a t is ta lle r than it is wide. Filled pasta may
be prepared in p o ts th a t are w id e r than th e y are ta ll to make it easier to rem ove th e pasta
w ith o u t breaking it. For large am ounts o f pasta, you may use special pasta cookers, which
resem ble deep fry e rs . Place th e pasta in a w ire or p e rfo ra te d ba sket w ith a handle and
low er it in to b o ilin g o r sim m e rin g w a te r u n til cooked, then l i f t th e ba sket o u t o f th e w ater,
allow in g th e pasta to drain. Have available colanders, strain ers, and skim m e rs to drain the
pasta.

814 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

 cooking pasta and noodles
Q basic formula

Cooking Pasta About V / 2 oz/43 g salt for Finishing ingredients, including:

(10 servings) every 1 gal/3.84 L water
Salt and pepper
1 lb 8 oz/680 g dry pasta
Grated cheese
Plenty of water (at least
l '/ 2 gal/5.76 L) Sauces

Oils

method
at-a-glance
]. Bring the salted w ater to a expert tips
rolling boil.

2. Add the pasta and s tir it to

separate the strands. A1 dente pasta is the most desired doneness for the majority of pas­
tas or noodles. The term al dente is Italian for "to the tooth" and refers to pas­
3. Cook the pasta until it is
ta that is very slightly crisp, instead of mushy or overcooked. Cook the pasta
tender but not soft.
or noodles until they can be bitten into easily, but still offer a slight resistance
4 . Drain the pasta and sense of texture.
im m ediately and serve
it at once or refresh it in
ice cold w ater to stop the
cooking.

c h a p te r 25 » C O O KIN G PASTA A N D D U M P L IN G S 815

 1. bring a large amount o f w a te r to
a ro llin g boil. A llo w a m inim um o f 1 g a l/3 .8 4 L w a te r fo r
every 1 lb /4 5 4 g pasta. Add 3A to 1 o z/2 1 to 2 8 g s a lt to
each gallon o f co o kin g w a te r. Taste th e w a te r b e fo re add­
ing pasta. It should be n o tice a b ly salty, b u t n o t unpleas­
a n tly so.
Add f la t or e xtru d e d pasta and noodles all a t once
to th e b o ilin g w a te r. Long s tra n d s should be g e n tly sub­
m erged in th e w a te r as th e y so fte n . E specially in th e be­
ginning, s tir th e pasta a fe w tim e s to sep ara te th e strand s
or shapes and p re ve n t the m fro m s tic k in g to g e th e r. Lower
fille d pastas in to th e w a te r and reduce the heat to a sim ­
m er th ro u g h o u t coo kin g tim e to keep th e shapes fro m
b re a kin g a p art.
Cook th e pasta u n til it is p ro p e rly cooked and tender.
Drain im m e d ia te ly in a colander.
Some pastas and noodles cook very rapidly. Fresh
pasta may cook in less than 3 m inutes; d ried pasta may
ta ke up to 8 m in utes o r longer, depending on th e size and
shape. If you are w o rk in g w ith an u n fa m ilia r shape o r styte
o f pasta, be sure to co n su lt th e in s tru c tio n s on the pack­
age. The m o st accu rate te s t f o r doneness is to b ite in to a

method in detail piece or strand, as w e ll as to break a p a rt a stra n d or piece

and look a t th e in te rio r. As pasta cooks, it becom es tra n s ­
lu cen t th ro u g h o u t. An opaque or n o ta b ly d a rker core or
c e n te r shows th a t th e pasta is n o t co m p le te ly cooked.
Drain th e f la t o r e xtru d e d pasta or noodles in a colan­
der, shaking g e n tly to help th e cooking w a te r drain away.
Tube shapes are prone to holding w a te r; g e n tly s tirrin g
the m w ith gloved hands helps to drain away as much w a te r
as possible. F illed pastas should be lifte d fro m th e cooking
w a te r g e n tly w ith a sp id e r o r s lo tte d spoon to avoid b u rs t­
ing them . They may be tra n s fe rre d to a colander to drain or
b lo tte d b rie fly on to w e ls to rem ove excess water.
Fresh pasta is b e st served im m e d ia te ly. It is ready to
sauce o r o th e rw ise fin is h and serve now. D ried pasta may
be p ro p e rly cooled and s to re d f o r la te r service.
NOTE: Reserve som e o f th e dra in e d p a s ta w a te r to
a d ju s t the sauce's consistency, i f necessary.

816 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L IN G S

 cooking pasta and noodles
2. evaluate the quality o f th e cooked
pasta. P ro p e rly cooked d rie d pasta is te n d e r b u t s till has
te x tu re (top) w h ile overcooked pasta is m ushy (b o tto m ).
P ro p e rly cooked d rie d pa sta is te n d e r b u t w ith a d isce rn ­
ible te x tu re , a s ta te known as al de n te (Ita lia n f o r "to the
to o th ”). Fresh pasta cooks rap id ly, w hich makes it easy
to overcook; it should be c o m p le te ly cooked b u t n o t raw
or doughy. Pasta and noodles should rem ain separate
and s tirre d once o r tw ic e as th e y cook. Pasta th a t has
been cooled and held should be p ro p e rly re h ea te d when
serving. Sauces and o th e r fin is h in g in g re d ie n ts paired
w ith pasta and noodles should be chosen to com p le m e nt
the shape o r te x tu re o f th e pasta (see Pairing Pasta w ith
Sauces below).

PAIRING PASTAWITH SAUCES

Saucesarecustomarilyselectedtosuita
particulartypeofpasta.Long,flatpastas
suchasfettuccineorlinguinearegenerally
servedwithsmooth,lightsaucessuchas
creamsauces,vegetablecoulis,orbutter
andcheesecombinationsthatwillcoatthe
strandsevenly.Tubepastassuchaselbow
macaroniorzitiandtwistedpastassuchas
fusilliarenormallypairedwithmoreheav­
ilystructuredsauces,suchasameatsauce
oronewithagarnishoffreshvegetables,
becausetheseshapesareabletotrapthe
Apastasflavorisalsoanimportant
considerationwhenchoosingasauce.
Thedelicateflavoroffreshpastaismost
successfullypairedwithlightcreamor
butter-basedsauces.Heartiersauces,such
asthosethatincludemeats,areusually
combinedwithdriedpastas.
Filledpastasrequireonlyaverylight
sauce,becausethefillingprovidesacertain
amountofflavorandmoisture.Asauce
thatwilloverwhelmtheflavorofthefilling
isinappropriate.

c h a p te r 25 » C O O KIN G PASTA A N D D U M P L IN G S 817

general guidelines for serving fresh
and dried pasta
Pasta dishes are su ite d to m any d iffe re n t service styles. The speed and ease o f preparing
pasta makes it a good choice f o r a la ca rte resta u ra n ts; in fa c t, som e re s ta u ra n t kitchens
include a separate pasta s ta tio n on the h o t-fo o d line. When p ro p e rly prepared, handled,
and held, pasta can also be used fo r banquet and b u ffe t service. Both th e pasta and the
accom panying sauces can be prepared in advance.
For a la carte service, cook o r reheat the pasta as close to service tim e as possible.
Since pasta loses heat rapidly, be sure to heat th e bowls or p la te s on which it is to be
served and serve it im m e dia te ly.
For b u ffe t service, choose s tu rd y pastas th a t w ill hold up w ell. Fully p re h e a t the steam
ta b le o r heat lamps b e fo re placing the pasta on the b u ffe t line. Cook, reheat, a n d /o r fin ish
the pasta as close to serving tim e as possible. Choose a h o te l pan deep enough to contain
the pasta c o m fo rta b ly , b u t n o t so large th a t th e pasta is spread o u t in a th in layer, where
it w ill lose heat and m o istu re rapidly. Even in a steam ta b le , heat is lo s t rapidly. There is a
lim it to how long pasta dishes can be held succe ssfully fo r b u ffe t service, so t r y to p u t out
sm aller am ounts and replenish it fre q u e n tly . H olding pasta dishes over heat fo r to o long
can cause th e sauce to dry o u t and the pasta to begin to lose its te x tu re .

HOLDI NG PASTA FOR SERVICE

Fresh pasta does n o t hold as w e ll as dried pasta, and since it cooks rapidly, it is usually
fe a s ib le to cook it fre s h to o rd e r durin g service. Because it take s longer to cook, dried
pasta is som e tim es cooked ahead o f tim e and held fo r service. Rapidly cool and s to re the
pasta, if a p p ro p ria te or necessary, and reheat servings or batches as needed a t service. If
pasta is prepa red in advance and held, it should be s lig h tly undercooked so th a t it w ill not
o vercook durin g reheating. To cool the pasta, rinse it th o ro u g h ly w ith cold w a te r and drain
it w ell. A lte rn a tiv e ly , spread th e pasta o u t in a th in layer on a she et pan and re frig e ra te .
W hen th o ro u g h ly cooled in th is fashion, a sm all am ount o f o il can be used to to ss w ith the
pasta w hile s till w arm to pre ven t it fro m s tic k in g tog ether.
To reheat the pasta, b ring some salte d w a te r to a boil. There should be enough w a te r to
generously cover th e pasta, tho ugh n o t so much as is req uire d f o r cooking. Lower the pasta
in to th e w a te r in a ba sket o r by d ro pp ing it in, and le t it sim m er ju s t long enough to heat
through, depending upon th e thickn ess o f th e pasta. Remove th e pasta fro m the w a te r and
drain it w ell b e fo re fin is h in g it fo r service.

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PAST A A N D D U M P L I N G S

Fresh Egg Pasta
Makes 1 lb 8 oz/6 8 o g
1 lb /4 5 4 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
Pinch salt
4 eggs
1 to 2 tb s p /1 5 to 30 mL water, or as needed
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable or olive oil (optional)
1. Combinetheflourandsaltinalargebowl.Makea
wellinthecenter.
2 . Placetheeggs,w ater,andoil,ifusing,inthecenter
ofthewell.Withafork,graduallypullthedryingre­
dientsintotheeggmixture. Stiruntilaloosemass
forms.Asyoumixthedough,adjusttheconsistency
withadditionalflourorwater.Thedoughshouldbe
tackybutminimallymoist.
3.Turnthedoughoutontoaflouredw orksurface
andkneaduntilsmoothandelastic,4to5minutes.
Gatherandsmooththedoughintoaball,cover,and
letthedoughrelaxatroomtemperatureforatleast1
hour.
4 . Rollthepastadoughintothinsheetsbyhandorby
usingapasta-rollingmachineandcutintodesired
shapes.Thepastaisreadytocooknow,oritmaybe
coveredandrefrigeratedforupto2days.
W hole W heat Pasta: S ub stitute whole wheat flo u r fo r half
o f the all-purpose flour.
Buckw heat Pasta: S ubstitute 3'A oz/92 g buckwheat flou r
fo r an equal amount o f the all-purpose flour.
Spinach Pasta: Puree 6 oz/170 g spinach leaves, squeeze
dry in cheesecloth, and add w ith the eggs. Adjust the
dough w ith additional flo u r as needed.
S a ffro n Pasta: Steep 2 to 4 ts p /1 .60 to 3.20 g pulverized
saffron threads in 2 tb s p /3 0 mL hot water, cool
sufficie ntly, and add w ith the eggs. Adjust the dough
w ith additional flo u r as needed. Alternately, fresh pasta
can be cooked in salted saffron water.
C itru s Pasta: Add 4 ts p /1 2 g f inely grated lemon or orange
zest w ith the eggs. S ubstitute 2 tb sp /3 0 mL lemon
or orange juice fo r the water. Adjust the dough w ith
additional flo u r as needed.
Curried Pasta: Add 2 to 4 tsp/6 to 12 g Curry Powder (page
369 or purchased) to the flour.
T3
P
Herbed Pasta: Add 2 to 3 oz/57 to 8 5 g chopped herbs
in
r+
w ith the eggs. Adjust the dough w ith additional flou r as P
needed.
1- }
Black P epper Pasta: Add 2 ts p /4 g cracked black rt>
peppercorns to the flour. n
1—*•
Red Pepper Pasta: Saute 6 oz/170 g pureed roasted red
peppers in an open vessel until reduced and dry. Cool 0 )
and add to the eggs. Adjust the dough w ith additional C/3
flo u r as needed.
Tom ato Pasta: Saute 3 o z /8 5 g tom ato puree in an open
vessel over low heat until reduced and dry. Cool and add
w ith the eggs. Adjust the dough w ith additional flou r as
needed.
Pum pkin, C arrot, o r B eet Pasta: Saute 6 oz/1 7 0 g pureed
cooked pumpkin, carrots, or beets in an open vessel until
reduced and dry. Cool and add w ith the eggs. Adjust the
dough w ith additional flo u r as needed.
Basic Boiled Pasta
Makes 10 servings
V / 2 g al/5.76 L water
l o z/4 3 g salt, or as needed
'/ 2
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dry or fresh pasta
Sauce or garnish, as needed (optional)
Oil, as needed (optional)
1. Bringthewaterandsalttoaboilinalargestockpot.
2 .Addthepastaandstirwelltoseparatethestrands.
Cookuntiltender,butnottoosoft.(Freshpastamay
cookinlessthan3minutes;drypastamaytakeup
to8minutesorlonger,dependingonthesizeand
shape.)
3. Drainthepastaatonce.Youm ayaddanydesired
sauceorgarnishatthispointandserve.
4 . Ifthepastaistobeheld,plungeitintoanicew ater
bathorrinsethoroughlywithcoldwatertostop
thecooking.Drainthepastaimmediatelyandtoss
withasmallamountofoiltopreventitfromstick­
ingtogether.Alternatively,drainthepasta,tosswith
asmallamountofoil,spreadinasinglelayerona
parchment-linedsheetpan,andrefrigerate.
C hapter 25 » C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S 819
O recchiette w ith Italian Sausage, Broccoli
Rabe, and Parmesan
 p

Orecchiette with theparsley,basil,oregano,chives,andbroccolirabe. cn

C ~K
Addthepastaand3oz/85goftheParmesan.Tossto
Italian Sausage, mix.
5. Garnishwiththerem aining2oz/57gParmesanand rD
Broccoli Rabe, and serveimmediately. n

Parmesan id
<T>
Makes 10 servings in

2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg broccoli rabe Pasta alia Carbonara

Makes 10 servings
4 f 1o z/1 2 0 mL olive oil

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Italian sausage, casing removed 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g minced pancetta

12 o z/3 4 0 g minced onion 2 lb /9 0 7 g spaghetti
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Tomato Sauce (page 295) 6 eggs, beaten
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg orecchiette pasta 2 tb s p /1 2 g cracked black peppercorns
2 garlic cloves, sliced 6 o z/1 7 0 g grated Pecorino Romano, or as needed
]A ts p /0 .5 0 g red pepper flakes Chopped parsley, as needed
2 tb sp /3 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3) or water

2 o z/5 7 g chopped parsley 1. Renderthepancettainalargesautepanoraron­

2 o z/5 7 g basil chiffonade
2 o z/5 7 g chopped oregano
2 o z/5 7 g minced chives
5 o z/1 4 2 g grated Parmesan
1. Cleanthebroccolirabebycuttingoffi in/3cmfrom
thebottomofeachstem.Blanchthebroccolirabein
boilingsaltedwaterinalargestockpotuntil90per­
centcooked,about4minutes. Removeandshockin
icewater. Drainwellandhold.
2 . Heat2floz/6om Loftheoilinalargesautepan
overmediumheat.Addthesausage,andcookuntil
nearlycookedthrough,crumblingthesausagewith
awhisk.Addtheonionsandcookuntiltender,about
4minutes.Addthetomatosauce. Letthemixture
cookuntilitresemblesaBolognese-stylesauce,
about5minutes.Removefromthepanandreserve.
3. Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboilandcook
thepastauntilaldente,about6minutes. Remove
fromthewateranddrain.
deauoverlowheatuntilgoldenbrown,7to10min­
utes,stirringoccasionally.Reservetheporkandfat
inthepanandkeepwarm.
2 . Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoarollingboil.A dd
thespaghettiandstirafewtimestoseparatethe
strands.Cookthespaghettiuntilitistendertothe
bitebutstillretainssometexture.
3. Drainthespaghettiinacolander(seeN ote).
4 . Returnthepanwiththepancettatom ediumheat.
Tossthepastawiththeporkandrenderedfat,mak­
ingsurethepastaisveryhotandscrapingthefond
offthebottomofthepan.
5. Rem ovethepanfromtheheat.Addtheeggsandtoss
untiltheeggsarejustcooked.Addthepeppercorns
andcheeseandtoss.
6. GarnishwithchoppedparsleyandadditionalPecori­
no,ifdesired.Serveimmediately.
NOTE: If the spaghetti is prepared in advance, rinse it with
cold water, drain well, and rub a small amount o f oil
through the strands. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

4 .W hilethepastaiscooking,heatalargesautepan Reheat the pasta in boiling salted water and drain well

overmediumheatwiththeremainingoil.Addthe before continuing.

garlic,redpepperflakes,stock,andreservedsausage
mixture.Cookfor1minute,stirringtocombine.Add

ch a p te r 25 » C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S 821
 Stir-Fried Glass
Noodles (Jap Choe)
Makes 10 servings
20 dried shiitake mushrooms
2 o z/5 7 g dried wood ear mushrooms
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg sweet-potato noodles
6 green onions, trimmed and thinly sliced
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL light soy sauce
2 tb sp /3 0 mL sesame oil
1 o z/2 8g su g a r
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL vegetable oil
12 o z/3 4 0 g onion, thinly sliced with the grain
l 3/t o z /5 0 g minced garlic
8 o z/2 2 7 g red pepper, cut into julienne
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g green cabbage chiffonade
12 o z/3 4 0 g carrot, cut into julienne
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
10 eggs, beaten lightly, cooked to make an
omelet Vs in /3 mm thick, cut into julienne
1.Rehydratetheshiitakesandw
oodearmushrooms
separatelyincoolwaterovernight. Drainand
reservetherehydrationwater.
2 .Cutofftheentirestemoftheshiitakes.Cutthecaps
intostripsMsin/3mmwide.Trimoffthehardnod­
ulesandcutthewoodearmushroomsintostrips
Vsin/3m mwide.
3.Pourboilingw ateroverthenoodlestocoverbyatleast
2in/5cm-Soakuntilrehydratedandelastic,8to10
minutes.Drain,rinsewithcoolwater,andreserve.
4 .W hisktogetherthegreenonions,soysauce,sesame
oil,andsugar.
5.H eattheoilinawokandstir-frytheonionsand
garlicuntilaromatic.Addthemushrooms,redpep­
per,cabbage,andcarrots,andstir-fryuntiltheveg­
etablesarealmostcookedthrough.
6. Addthenoodlesandstir-fryuntilheatedthrough.
7.Stirinthesoysaucem ixture. Seasonwithsaltand
pepper. Ifthemixtureappearsdry,moistenwiththe 6. w Foldinthesproutsandcilantro.Adjustseasoning
reservedshiitakeliquid.
8. Garnishwiththeomeletjulienneandserveimme­
diately.
822 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Pad Thai
Makes 10 servings
3 lb /1.36 g rice noodles, 'A in /6 mm thick
2 tb s p /1 4 g dried shrimp
2 fl o z/6 0 mLThai chili paste (nahm
prik paw), plus more as needed
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL fish sauce, plus more as needed
2 fl o z/6 0 mL rice vinegar
l 3/ ) o z/5 0 g palm sugar, plus more as needed
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
l ' A o z/3 5 g chopped garlic
1 leek with light green part, cut into julienne
2 lb /9 0 7 g extra-firm bean curd, pressed
and cut into strips V* in /6 mm thick
6 eggs, beaten slightly
4 green onions, shaved into l-in /3 -c m strips
1 lb /4 5 4 g bean sprouts
2 3A o z/7 8 g roughly chopped cilantro
10 lime wedges
5 o z/1 4 2 g peanuts, toasted, coarsely chopped
1 . Soakthericenoodlesinw
armwaterfor30minutes
anddrainwell. Soakthedriedshrimpfor30minutes
incoolwater. Drainandfinelychop.
2 .W hisktogetherthechilipaste,fishsauce,vinegar,
andsugar.
3. Heattheoilinaw okovermedium-highheat.Add
theshrimp,garlic,leek,andbeancurd.Stir-fryuntil
theleekbrightensincolorandsoftensslightly.The
garlicshouldbegintoturngolden,butnotbrown.
4 .A ddthenoodlesandcoatwiththeoil. Stir-fryfor30
seconds.Pushthenoodlestotheupperedgeofone
sideofthewok.Addadrizzleofoiltothespacecre­
atedinthewok,thenaddthebeateneggsandspread
w ithaspatulatobegincooking.Allowtheeggsto
co okfor10secondsbeforebeginningtostir-frythe
noodle/eggmixtureagain.
5. Stirinthefishsaucem ixtureandthegreenonions.
S tir-fr
y untilthen o odlesaresoft,addingwateras
necessarytofacilitatetherehydrationofthenoodles.
ithchilipaste,fishsauce,andsugar,asneeded.
Garnishwithlimewedgesandpeanutsandserve
immediately.
Pad Thai
Tempeh Cashew Noodles

Tempeh Cashew
Noodles
Makes10portions
3A cup/89 g cashews, toasted
6 garlic cloves, minced
2 fl o z/6 0 mL soy sauce
3 tb s p /4 5 mL rice wine vinegar
2 ts p /9 g brown sugar
1 tb sp /1 5 mL sesame oil
1 tb sp /1 6 g chili paste
10 o z /2 8 4 g udon noodles
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil
1 lb /4 5 4 g tempeh, cut into small dice
1 onion, cut into small dice
1 red pepper, cut into small dice
1 large zucchini, thinly sliced
8 o z/2 2 7 g green beans, cut in half
GARNISH
Chopped cilantro, as needed
Chopped toasted cashews, as needed
1. Com binethecashews,two-thirdsoftheminced
garlic,thesoysauce,vinegar,sugar,sesameoil,and
chilipasteinafoodprocessororblenderandprocess 3.Tomakethecheesefilling,combinethericotta,
untilsmooth.Setaside.
2 . Cookthenoodlesinboilingsaltedw ateruntil
tender,7to9minutes. Drain.
3. H eattheoilinalargesautepanorwokovermedium 4 . Spreadasmallamountofthemeatsauceonthebot­
heat. Stir-frythetempeh,onions,andpeppersuntil
theonionsaretranslucent,4to5minutes.
4 .A ddthezucchiniandgreenbeansandstir-fryuntil
tender,3to5minutesmore.Addtheremaining
garlicandstir-fryuntilfragrant,about1minute.
5.A ddthenoodlesandtosstocombine.Addtheca­
shewsauceandtosstocoat. Heatthrough,about5
minutes.
6. Serveimmediately,garnishedwithcilantroand
cashews.
P
Lasagna di Carnevale in
r+
P
Napolitana i- i
Makes10servings 0 )
o
10 o z/2 8 4 g dried lasagna noodles
10 o z/2 8 4 g Italian sweet sausage (*D
GO
1 4 o z /3 9 7 g ric o tta
12 o z/3 4 0 g grated Parmesan
3 eggs
3/ t o z/21 g chopped parsley
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed (optional)
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Bolognese M eat Sauce (page 296)
1 tb s p /1 5 mL olive oil
10 o z /2 8 4 g mozzarella, thinly sliced or shredded
1. Bringalargepotofsaltedw
atertoaboil.Addthe
noodlesandstirwelltoseparate.Cookuntiltender
butnotoverlysoft,about8minutes.Drainthenoo­
dlesatonceandrinsewithverycoldwater.Drain
againandreserve.
2 . Cookthesausageonasheetpanina350°F/i76°C
oven,about15minutes. Removethecasingfromthe
sausage,ifdesired,andslicethinly.Reserve.
4oz/113goftheParmesan,theeggs,andparsley.
Seasonwithsalt,pepper,andnutmeg,ifusing.Mix
well.
tomofanoiledhalfhotelpan.
5. Layinsom eofthenoodles,overlappingthemno
morethanV4in/6mm.Donotallowthenoodlesto
foldupthesidesofthepan.
6. Spreadthecheesefillingabout%in/6mmthick,
thenaddalayereachofsausage,sauce,mozzarella,
andasprinkleoftheremainingParmesan.Continue
layeringtheingredientsinthismanner,reserving
aportionofsauceandParmesanforthetop.Finish
w ithalayerofnoodles.
7. Coverwiththereservedsauceandtopw iththere­
mainingParmesan.
continued
c h a p te r 25 » C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S 825
 8. Bakeina375°F/i9i°Covenfor15minutes. Reduce Classic Bolognese
theheatto325°F/i63°Candbakefor45minutes
more.Ifthetopbrownstoofast,coverthepanlight­ Lasagna with Ragu
lywithgreasedaluminumfoil.
9 .Allowthelasagnatorestfor30to45m inutesbefore and Bechamel
cuttingintoservings. (Lasagna al Forno)
NOTE: Lasagna can be made w ith raw noodles as well. Makes 10 servings

2 lb /9 0 7 g Spinach Pasta (page 819)

V A q t/1 .2 0 L Bolognese M eat Sauce (page 296), cold

Couscous 2 q t/1 .9 2 L Bechamel Sauce (page 295), cold

Makes 10 servings 4 o z /1 1 3 g finely grated Parmesan

2 o z/5 7 g butter
20 to 24 f I o z/6 00 to 7 2 0 mL cold water
BO fl o z/9 0 0 mL Tomato Sauce (page 295)
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt

1 lb /4 5 4 g couscous
1. RollthepastaViein/1.50m
mthickbyhandorbyus­
3 o z/8 5 g butter, melted ingapasta-rollingmachine. Cutthesheetsofpasta
V2tsp /1 g ground turmeric into5byn-in/13by28-cmrectangles.
Ground black pepper, as needed 2 . Bringalargepotofsaltedw atertoaboil.Addthe
pasta,returnthewatertoaboil,andcookthepasta
1. Com
bine16floz/480mLofthewaterwithhalfof for10seconds. Drainthepastaanddropitintocold
thesalt. Soakthecouscousinthesaltedwaterfor1 water. Letthepastacoolfor2minutes,drain,and
hour. placeonpapertowelstodry.
2 . Drainthecouscousinacolanderlinedwithcheese­ 3. Spreadasm allamountofthemeatsauceonthebot­
clothorthetopofacouscoussieresetoverapotof tomofabutteredhalfhotelpan.
simmeringwaterorstew.Coverthepotandletthe 4 . Layintherectanglesofpasta,overlappingbyno
couscoussteamfor10minutes. morethan%in/6mm.Donotallowthepastatofold
3. Em ptythecouscousintoahotelpanandstirtosepa­ upthesidesofthepan.
ratethegrains.Add2floz/6omLofthewaterand 5. Spreadasm allamountofbechamelonthepastaand
mixittogetherbyhand.Letitrestfor15minutes. •sprinklewithsomeofthecheese.
4 . Repeatsteps2and3tw omoretimes. 6. Repeatthisprocessuntilthereare5layersofpasta,
5. Stirinthebutterandturm eric. Seasonwithsaltand alternatingbetweencoatingthelayerswiththemeat
pepper. Serveimmediately. sauceandbechamel.Topthelastlayerwithbecha­
melandgratedcheese,anddotwithbutter.
7. Bakeonthetoprackina45O 0F/232°Covenuntil
goldenbrown,20to25minutes.
8. Allowthelasagnatorest10minutesbeforecutting
intoservings3by4in/8by10cm.Serveeachpor­
tionwith3floz/90mLofthetomatosauce.

826 V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

Classic Bolognese Lasagna w ith Ragu and
Bechamel (Lasagna al Forno)
 p
in
Asparagus and White withsomeofthewhitebeanpuree. Placeanother C +
layerofpastaontop,addasecondlayerofbean P
Bean hasagna puree,andtopwithonemoresheetofpasta.Adda ^
Makes 10 servings spoonfuloftheasparagusmixturetothefinallayer o>
ofpasta. t
2 lb /9 0 7 g Fresh Egg Pasta (page 819)
7. Garnishthelasagnaswithadrizzleofoliveoiland 13
1 lb /4 5 4 g white beans, cooked and drained gratedParmesanandserveimmediately. rt>
in
3 whole garlic cloves

1 tb sp /3 g chopped rosemary

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil, plus as needed

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

3 o z/8 5 g minced shallot

3 garlic cloves, minced

12 o z/3 4 0 g baby spinach

2 f I o z/6 0 mL Madeira

2 lb /9 0 7 g asparagus, blanched and

cut into l-in /3 -c m pieces

1 lb /4 5 4 g shelled green peas

2 tb sp /6 g chopped sage

GARNISH

Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed

Grated Parmesan, as needed

1. Rolloutthepastadoughintothinsheetsbyhandor
byusingapasta-rollingmachine. Cutthesheetsinto
12largesquares, andcoverwithplasticwrapuntil
needed.
2 .Com binethebeans,wholegarlicclove,rosemary,
andtheoliveoilinafoodprocessororblenderand
processuntilsmooth.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
Setaside.
3. Inalargesautepan,heat2tbsp/30m Loliveoilover
mediumheat.Addtheshallots,mincedgarlic,and
spinachandsauteuntiltheshallotsaretranslucent
andthespinachiswilted,2to3minutes.
4 . DeglazethepanwiththeM adeira.Lettheliquid
reducecompletely.Addtheasparagusandpeasand
tosstocombineandheatthrough,about1minute.
Stirinthesage.Keepwarmoverlowheat.
5. Cookthepastasheetsinsaltedboilingw ateruntil
tender, 6to8minutes. Drain.
6. Placeonesheetofpastaonaheatedplateandtop

c h a p te r 25 » C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S 829
Ravioli Bercy 5.Assem
bletheraviolibyplacingabout2tbsp/30mL
Makes10servings fillingonhalfthecutpasta.Brushtheedgeslightly
withwater,thentopwithanotherpieceofpasta.
RAVIOLI
Pressfirmlytoseal.
V / 2 o z/4 3 g butter
6. Blanchtheravioliinsimmeringsaltedwaterfor1
minute,thenshockinanicewaterbath.Storeona
2 lb 5 o z/1.05 kg leeks, thinly sliced
sheetpan,covered,andrefrigerated,untilneeded
1 3 o z /3 6 9 g ric o tta forservice.
2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley 7.Tom akethesauce,heatthebutterinalargesaute
2 tb sp /6 g chopped chives panovermediumheat.Addthemushroomsand
2 tb sp /6 g chopped chervil
sauteuntiltender,4to5minutes.Addtheshallots
andgarlicandsauteuntilfragrant,about2min­
2 tb sp /6 g chopped tarragon
utesmore.
Salt, as needed
8. Addthewineandbringtoasimmer. Simmeruntil
2 lb /9 0 7 g Fresh Egg Pasta (page 819) thesauceisreducedandslightlythickened.Stirin
MUSHROOM BERCY SAUCE
theparsley.
V / 2 o z/4 3 g butter
9 .A tservice,finishcookingtheravioliinsimmering
saltedwateruntilaldente,3to4minutes. Drain
4 o z/1 1 3 g chanterelle mushrooms
well.
4 o z/1 1 3 g oyster mushrooms
1 0 .Ladle2floz/6om LofthemushroomBercyonto
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g white button mushrooms aplate,andtopwitharaviolo.Topwithbechamel
4V2 o z/1 2 8 g shallots, finely chopped andmicroarugula.Seasonthedishwithsaltand
V i o z/1 4 g garlic paste
pepperandserve.
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL white wine

2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley

2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Bechamel Sauce (page 295), hot

V 2 o z/1 4 g micro arugula

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

1.H
eatthebutterovermediumheat.Addtheleeks
andsauteuntiltender,3to4minutes.Transferthe
leekstoamediumbowlandcoolcompletely.
2 .Stirthericotta,parsley,chives, chervil, andtarra­
gonintotheleeks. Setaside.
3.Rollthepastadoughintostrips4in/10cmw ide
usingapasta-rollingmachine.W orkgraduallyuntil
thesheetsreachano.2thickness.Rolltwiceon
thefinalsetting.
4 .Usea4-in/io-cmroundcuttertocutout20pieces
fromthesheets.

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S

Gnocchi di Semolina
Gratinati
Makes10servings
50 fl o z/1 .5 0 L milk
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-grain semolina
4 o z /1 1 3 g butter
2 egg yolks, beaten
4 o z /1 1 3 g grated Parmesan
1. Bringthemilktoaboilinalarge,heavy-bottomed
potovermedium-highheatandseasonwithsalt.
2 .Turntheheatdow ntomedium-low.Pourthesemo­
linaintothemilkinathinstream,whiskingcon­
stantlyuntilithasallbeenadded.Simmer,stirring
often,untilthesemolinaiscooked,20to30min­
utes.Thesemolinashouldnothaveanoverlygritty
texture.
3. Rem ovethepotfromtheheatandblendin3oz/85
gofthebutter,theeggyolks,and3oz/85g°fthe
cheese.
4 . Shapethegnocchim ixtureintoquenelles,pipe
itintolongtubes,orspreaditonasheetpantoa
thicknessofVzin/icm.Coolcompletely,andcutas
desired.
5. Cookthegnocchiinaliberalam ountofrapidlyboil­
ingsaltedwateruntiltheyfloattothesurface,then
cookfor2to3minutesmore.Drainwell.
6. Toservethegnocchi,transferthemtoaliberallybut­
teredbakingdish.Brushordrizzlewiththeremain­
ingbutterandtopwiththeremainingcheese. Bake
ina400°F/204°Covenfor5to6minutesorbrown
underabroilerorsalamander. Serveimmediatelyon
heatedplates.
id
p
Gnocchi di Ricotta m
r t
Makes10servings P
i- 1
1 lb 6 o z /6 2 4 g ricotta 0 )
n
8 o z/2 2 7 g all-purpose flour, sifted t—*•
3 eggs
fD
3 fl o z /9 0 mL olive oil in
r /4 ts p /4 g s a lt
16 fl o z/6 8 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263), hot
l'/2 o z /4 3 g butter
8 o z/2 2 7 g grated Parmesan
V2 ts p /1 g ground black pepper
1. Placethericotta, flour,eggs,oil, andsaltinafood
processor. Processuntiltheingredientscometogeth­
ertoformasmoothdough,about1minute.Transfer
thedoughtoabowl.
2 . Bringalargepotofsaltedw atertoaboiloverhigh
heat.Usingtwospoons,shapethedoughintooval
quenelles,droppingthemonebyoneintotheboil­
ingwater.Whenallthedoughhasbeenused,return
thewatertoaboilfor1minute.Transferthegnocchi
carefullytoabowlwithaslottedspoon.
3. H eatthestock.Heatthebutterinamediumsaute
panovermediumheat;addthegnocchiandthehot
stock.Heatthrough,1to2minutes.
4 . Transferthegnocchiwithaslottedspoontoheated
bowlsforserving.Garnishwiththecheeseandpep­
per. Serveimmediately.
NOTE: Ricotta gnocchi are very delicate and can break easily,
so take care when removing them from the water and
when transferring them to the serving bowls.
Chapter 25 » C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S 831
Gnocchi Piedmontese 2 .A
dd1oz/28gofthebutter,theeggs,salt,pepper,
Makes10servings andnutmeg,ifusing.Mixwell. Incorporateenough
oftheflourtomakeastiffdough.
3 lb /1.36 kg russet potatoes 3. Rollthedoughintocylindersabout1in/3cmin
3 o z/8 5 g butter diameterandcutintopiecesabout1in/2.5cmlong.
3 eggs
Shapethegnocchiwithagnocchiboardorrolleach
oneoverthetinesofafork,pressingandrollingthe
Salt, as needed
doughwithyourthumb.
Ground black pepper, as needed
4 . Cookthegnocchiinsim meringsaltedwateruntil
Grated nutmeg, as needed (optional) theyrisetothesurface,2to3minutes. Liftthegnoc­
1 lb /4 5 4 g all-purpose flour, or as needed chifromthewaterwithaslottedspoonordrainwell
3 o z/8 5 g grated Parmesan
inacolander.
1 o z/2 8 g chopped parsley
5. H eattheremainingbutterinalargesautepanover
medium-highheat,addthegnocchi,andtossuntil
1. Scrub,peel, andcutthepotatoesintolargepieces.
veryhotandcoatedwithbutter.Addthecheeseand
Boilorsteamthemuntiltenderenoughtomasheas­ parsley.Adjustseasoningwithsaltandpepper. Serve
ily.Drainanddrythemoverlowheatoronasheet immediatelyonheatedplates.
panina300°F/i49°Covenuntilnomoresteamrises
fromthem,10to15minutes.Pureethehotpotatoes
throughafoodmillorpotatoricerintoaheated
bowl.

Shaping gnocchi using a fo rk Shaping gnocchi using a gnocchi board

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Spatzle
Makes10servings
6 eggs
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL milk
8 fI o z/2 4 0 mL water
Salt, as needed
Ground white pepper, as needed
Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed
1 o z/2 8 g Fines Herbes (page 369),
or as needed (optional)
1 lb /4 5 4 g all-purpose flour
4 o z /1 1 3 g butter
1. Combinetheeggs,milk,andwater. Seasonwithsalt,
pepper,andnutmeg.Addthefinesherbes,ifusing.
W orkintheflourbyhandorwithawoodenspoon
andbeatuntilsmooth.Allowthedoughtorestforl
hour.
The spatzle dough should be thick but
s till be able to flo w freely.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
2 . Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoarollingboil.
W orkthedoughthroughaspatzlemakerintothe
simmeringwater.Whenthespatzlecometothetop
ofthepot,about2to3minutes,removethemwitha
spider.Thespatzlearereadytofinishnow,ormaybe
cooledinanicewaterbath,drainedwell,andrefrig­
eratedforlaterservice.
3. H eatthebutterinalargesautepanovermedium-
highheat.Addthespatzleandsauteuntilveryhot.
Adjustseasoningwithsaltandpepper,garnishwith
morefinesherbes(ifusing),andserveimmediately.
NOTE: Although browning the spatzle is not traditional,
some cooks prefer to allow them extra tim e in the pan to
become brown and slightly crisp.
Move the cup slowly back and fo rth Heat the spatzle thoroughly,
across the openings to produce the
spatzle. Be sure th a t the w a te r is at
a rolling boil when the spatzle is
dropped in.
 P
c/a
Bread Dumplings Biscuit Dumplings r+

Makes10servings Makes10servings P

t-i
1 lb /4 5 4 g white bread or rolls with 8 o z/2 2 7 g all-purpose flour CD
crust, cut into small dice n
2 ts p /6 g baking powder
2 o z/5 7 g butter
1 ts p /3 g salt id
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL milk XSI
4 o z /1 13 g all-purpose flour
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley (optional)
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL milk, or as needed
About 2 V i q t/2 .4 0 L stock, broth, or soup
5 eggs

V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped parsley 1. Sifttheflour,bakingpow

der,andsalttogether.Add
Salt, as needed themilkandparsley,ifusing,andmixgently.Donot
Ground white pepper, as needed
overmix.Theconsistencyshouldbeslightlysofter
Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed (optional)
thanbiscuitdough.
2 . Bringthestocktoasim merinalargesaucepot.
1. Drythebreadina250°F/i2i°Covenuntilcomplete­ Dropi-oz/28-gportionsofdoughintothestock
lydryandcrisp,20to30minutes. about1in/3cmapart.W orkinbatches,ifnecessary.
Coverthepotandcookthedumplingsuntilthey
2 .H eatthebutterinamediumsautepanoverme­ haveexpandedandcookedcompletelythrough,
diumheatandaddtheonions. Sauteuntillightly about15minutesperbatch.Returnthecookingliq­
browned,8to10minutes. Removefromthepanand uidtoafullsimmerbetweenbatches.
cool. 3.Thedum plingsarereadytoservenow,ormaybe
3. Com binethebread,flour,andsauteedonionsina leftinthecookingliquidtoholdhotforservice.The
largebowl.Combinethemilk,eggs,parsley,salt, dumplingscanalsobeservedwithstew.
pepper,andnutmeg,ifusing,inanotherbowl.Pour
theliquidmixtureintothedrymixtureandblend
togetherlightly.Letstand,covered,for30minutes.
Addmoremilkifthemixtureisverydry.
4 . Shapethem ixturebyhandinto2-in/5-cmroundor
ovaldumplings.
5. Poachthedum plingsinbarelysimmeringsalted
waterfor15minutes.Theyarereadytoservenow,or
maybelightlymoistenedandkeptcoveredinahotel
panforservice.
6. Toserve,drainthedumplingswithaslottedspoon
orskimmer,andserveonheatedplates.

c h a p te r 25 » C O O K IN G PAST A A N D D U M P L I N G S 835
Hush Puppies
 T3
P

Hush Puppies Dim Sum cn

C "h

Makes10servings Makes20servings p
1-5
2 eggs, beaten rD
DUMPLING SKINS
n
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL milk 1 lb /4 5 4 g flour h-»-
2 fl o z/6 0 mL rendered bacon fat 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL hot water
Cl
r /2 o z/4 3 g minced onion in
FILLING
12 o z/3 4 0 g white cornmeal
12 o z/3 4 0 g ground pork
8 o z /1 7 0 g cake flour
8 o z/2 2 7 g shredded Chinese cabbage
2 ts p /6 g baking powder
2 o z/5 7 g chopped green onions
l'/2 ts p /5 g s a lt
1 ts p /3 g minced ginger
'A tsp /1 g ground black pepper
1 tb s p /1 5 mL soy sauce
'A ts p /0.50 g cayenne
1 tb s p /1 5 mL sesame oil
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil or lard, or as needed
1 egg white

1. Com
binetheeggs,milk,fat,andonioninasmall Salt, as needed

bowl. Ground white pepper, as needed

2.. Com binethecornmeal,flour,bakingpowder,salt,

pepper,andcayenneinanotherbowl.Makeawell
inthecenterandaddthewetingredients. Stirgently
untiljustcombined.
3. Formthedoughintoroundballs,aboutl in/3cmin
diameter.
4 . Heattheoilto350°F/i77°Cinaheavypotordeep
fryer.Deepfrythedoughuntilcrispandbrown,2to
3minutes,workinginbatchesifnecessary.Remove
fromtheoilwithaspideranddrainbrieflyonpaper
towels. Serveimmediately.
1. Topreparethedum
plingskins,mixtheflourand
waterinamediumbowltomakeasmoothdough.
Letstandfor30minutes.Dividethedoughinto
Vi-oz/14-gportionsandrolleachintoathincircle.
2 . Topreparethefilling,com bineallthefillingingre­
dientsandmixwellinamediumbowl.Checkthe
fillingconsistencyandseasoningbysauteingasmall
amountandtastingit.
3. Place1tbsp/15m Loffillingonadumplingskin.Fold
inhalfandcrimpandsealtheedgestightly.
4 . Steamthedum plingsinanAsian-stylebamboo
steameroracoveredperforatedhotelpanoverboil­
ingwateruntilcookedthrough,about8minutes.
Serveimmediately.

P o tsticke rs: Use prepared wonton wrappers instead of

preparing the dough, if desired. Fill and seal dumplings as
described above. Heat about ]A in /6 mm oil in a large saute
pan. Add the dumplings in a single layer and pan fry over
medium-high heat until the bottom s are very crisp and
brown. Add enough stock, broth, or w ater to come.up to
I/2 in/1 cm in the pan. Cover the pan and steam the
potstickers fo r 6 to 8 minutes, or until the wrapper is
translucent and tender. Serve immediately.

c h a p te r 25 » C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S 837
Steamed Dumplings 1 tb sp /3 g roughly chopped cilantro

20 shao-mai wrappers
(5hao-Mai) 10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL Ginger-Soy Dipping Sauce (page 841)
Makes 10 servings

8 o z/2 2 7 g ground pork, very cold

1. Placethepork,ginger,greenonions,oystersauce,soy
sauce,oil,cornstarch,egg,wine,salt,andpepperinto
2 ts p /6 g minced ginger
achilledfoodprocessorfittedwiththesteelblade.
2 green onions, thinly sliced Pulsethemixtureuntilwellcombined.Themixture
2 ts p /1 0 mL oyster sauce willbegintopulltogetherintoonemass.Transfertoa
1 ts p /5 mL light soy sauce
chilledmixingbowl.
1 ts p /5 mL sesame oil
2 .A ddtheshrimp,waterchestnuts,carrots,andcilantro.
Mixuntilincorporated.Chillthemixtureuntilitis
2 tb sp /1 8 g cornstarch
verycold.
l e gg 3. Usingatablespoon,placeam oundofthefillingmix­
1 tb sp /1 5 mL Shaoxing rice wine tureinthecenterofeachwrapper.Gathertheouter
1 ts p /3 g s a lt edgesofthewrappertoformacylinderwiththefill­
ingexposedatthetop.W rapyourpointerfingerand
Pinch ground black pepper
thumbaroundthecenter“waist.”Dipyourthumb
4 o z/1 1 3 g shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count), peeled,
fromtheoppositehandinwater(topreventsticking)
deveined, chopped into ’/t-in /6 -m m pieces
anduseittocompactthefillinginthedumpling.
1 o z/1 4 g water chestnut, cut into brunoise Gentlytaptheentiredumplingonthetabletoensure
1 o z/2 8 g carrot, cut into brunoise thatitwillstayuprightinthesteamer.

Line up the circles o f dough and place the fillin g in the cen- Here, the dumplings are placed on top o f cabbage leaves to
te r o f each circle. Gather the dumpling dough into a cylinder prevent them from to sticking to the steamer,
around the filling , pinching the excess dough together.

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
 P

. BringwatertoavigorousboilinanAsiansteamer. D.Turnofftheheatandletthedumplingsrestforafew C“f"

Oilthesteamerrackwithsesameoilorlineitwith minutesbeforeremoving.Serveimmediatelywiththe P
cabbageorlettuceleavesorparchmentpapertopre­ sauce.
ventthedumplingsfromsticking. <D

.Arrangethedumplingsinthesteamer.Coverand NOTE: For smaller passed hors d'oeuvre, use 1 tsp /5 mL O

steamuntilcookedthroughandfirm,about5minutes. fillin g per dumpling. ^"3 "

ro
GO
 T3
P

Pan-Fried Dumplings c-
J. Placeltbsp/15mLofthefillingoneachcircle ft' c/a

ofdoughandfoldasdesired.Lightlypinchthe P
(Guo Tie) areawherethedoughmeets.Transfertoalightly HJ
Makes10dumplings floured,parchment-linedsheetpan. CD
U.Heatalargecast-ironskilletovermedium-high
c
(— 1<
4 o z/1 1 3 g all-purpose flour
heat.Add2tbsp/30mLofthevegetableoiland
4 o z/1 1 3 g wheat starch swirltocoatthesidesofthepan. (*D
C/3
l '/ 2 ts p /5 g butter, very cold, cut into small pieces 7.W hentheoilishot,arrangethedumplingsincon­
5 '/2 fl o z/1 6 5 mL boiling water centricrings,startingfromtheoutsideofthepan.
6 o z/1 7 0 g ground pork 8. Cookuntilthebottomsarecompletelybrowned.
Releasethedumplingsfromthepanwithaspatula
6 o z/1 7 0 g finely chopped Chinese cabbage
beforeproceedingtothenextstep.
1 thinly sliced green onion
9 .Slow lyandcarefullyaddthestocktocomeabout
1 ts p /3 g minced ginger halfwayupthesidesofdumplings.Bringtoasim­
1 tb sp /1 5 mL soy sauce mer,coverthepan,andcookuntilthenoodle
1 tb sp /1 5 mL sesame oil
casingiscookedandthedumplingsareheated
through,1to2minutes.
le g g
10 .Rem ovethecoverandcookuntilallthestockhas
l ’/2 ts p /4.50 g cornstarch
evaporatedorbeenabsorbed.Addtheremaining
1 ts p /3 g salt oilandcookuntilthebottomsofthedumplings
'/ 2 tsp /1 g ground white pepper arecrisp.Serveimmediatelywiththesauce.
r /2 ts p /7.50 mL dry sherry

’/2 ts p /2 .5 0 g sugar Ginger-Soy Dipping Sauce

2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed Makes34 fl oz/1.02 L
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL rice wine vinegar
10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Ginger-Soy Dipping
Sauce (recipe follows) 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL light soy sauce

8 flo z /2 4 0 m L w a te r

1.Placetheflourandw
heatstarchinthebowlofa 5 o z/1 4 2 g minced ginger
foodprocessorfittedwiththesteelblade.Asthe 4 o z /1 1 3 g s u g a r
machineisrunning,graduallyaddthecoldbutter.
Addthewaterinaslowstream;thedoughshould 2 f I o z/6 0 mL sesame oil

begintocometogetherasasolidmass.
2 .Runforanadditional10secondstokneadthe Whiskalltheingredientstogetherinabowluntilthe
dough.Transferthedoughtoaflouredworksur­ sugarisdissolved.Thesauceisreadytoservenow,
faceandkneaduntilsmooth.W rapinplasticwrap ormayberefrigeratedforlateruse.
andletitrestforlhouratroomtemperature.
3.Com binethepork,cabbage,greenonion,ginger,
soysauce,sesameoil,egg,cornstarch,salt,pepper,
sherry,andsugarinalargebowl.Mixwellandad­
justseasoning.
4 .Dividethedoughinto2pieces.Rollouteachpieceto
aVi6-in/i.50-mm thickness.Useafloured3y2-in/
9-cmroundcuttertocutthedoughinto10pieces.
Coverthedoughtopreventitfromdryingout.

c h a p te r 25 » C O O K IN G PA ST A A N D D U M P L I N G S 841
Potato and Cheddar- 2 . Stirintheeggyolks,cheese, andgreenonions. Sea­
sonwithsalt,pepper,andnutmeg.Coverandsetthe
Filled Pierogi with fillingaside.
3.Tom akethedough,placethereservedpotatowater,
Caramelized Onions, flours,eggs,andsaltinanelectricmixerfittedwith
adoughhook.Mixatmediumspeeduntilthedough
Beurre Noisette, formsasmoothball,3to4minutes. Dividethe
doughinto4piecesandkneadeachonaflouredsur­
and Sage faceuntilthedoughisbarelytacky.Covereachwith
Makes10servings plasticwrap,andallowittorestfor20minutes.
4 . Rollthedoughusingapastam achinetoaVfa-in/
FILLING 1.50-mmthickness.Cutthedoughintocircleswith
6 lb /2.72 kg chef's potatoes a21/2-in-/6-cm-diameterbiscuitcutter.Lightlybrush
7 egg yolks theedgeswitheggwash.
9 o z/2 5 5 g Cheddar, grated 5. Placeapproxim ately1tbsp/15mLoffillingontothe
centerofeachdoughcircle. Foldinhalftoforma
V A o z/5 0 g halved and thinly sliced green onions
half-moonandpinchtheedgestoseal.
Salt, as needed
6. Simmerthepierogiinalargepotofboilingsalted
Ground black pepper, as needed wateruntiltheedgesofthedougharefullycooked,
Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed 4to5minutes.Thepierogiarereadytofinishnow,
ormaybecooledinanicewaterbath,drained,and
DOUGH
refrigeratedforlaterservice.
1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g semolina flour
7. H eattheclarifiedbutterinalargesautepanover
1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g all-purpose flour mediumheat.Addthepierogiandsauteuntilgolden
9 eggs brownonbothsidesandheatedthrough,about2
1 o z/2 8 g salt
minutesperside. Removethepierogifromthepan
2 fl o z/6 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023)
andkeepwarm.
8. Pourofftheclarifiedbutter,increasetheheatto
medium-high,addthewholebutter,andbringitto
6 o z/1 7 0 g clarified butter
noisette(goldenbrown),about2minutes.Adda
12 o z/3 4 0 g whole butter
pinchofsaltandwhitepepper,anddrizzleoverthe
'/ t t s p / l g salt pierogi.
Pinch ground white pepper 9 .Garnishwiththecaram elizedonions,sage,andsour
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g onions, caramelized creamandserveimmediately.
2 tb sp /6 g sage chiffonade

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL sour cream

1. Scrub,peel, andcutthepotatoesintolargepieces.
Boiltheminsaltedwateruntiltenderenoughto
masheasily.Drain,reservingandchilling8floz/240
mL o fthecookingliquid.Drythepotatoesoverlow
heatoronasheetpanina300°F/i49°Covenuntil
nomoresteamrisesfromthem.Whilethepotatoes
arestillhot,pureethemthroughafoodmillorpo­
tatoricerintoaheatedbowl.

V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
breakfas
 ..;»■M l k : - UPU* . . ■
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1*7

md garde manger PART 6

cooking eggs
Eggs can be cooked in the shell, poached, fried, scrambled, or prepared as

omelets or souffles. Using fresh eggs for cooking is important to ensure the

best flavor and quality of the finished dish. The top grade of eggs, AA, indicates

that the eggs are fresh. They will have a white that does not spread excessively

once the egg is cracked and the yolk should ride high on the white’s surface.

Regardless of the recipe or cooking method used, when eggs are overcooked,

excessive coagulation of the proteins forces water out and the eggs become dry.

CHAPTER 26
r .dr-»

/W J- & 7/ ¥
 A lth o u g h th e te rm boiled may appear in th e nam e, eggs p rep a re d in t h e s h e ll s h o u ld

A C T U A L L Y BE C O O K E D A T A B A R E S I M M E R F O R B E S T R E S U L T S . EGGS A R E C O O K E D IN T H E S H E L L TO M A K E

h a r d - a n d s o f t - c o o k e d a n d c o d d l e d e g g s . T h e y m a y b e s e r v e d d ir e c t l y in t h e s h e l l o r t h e y

M A Y BE S H E L L E D A N D U S E D TO M A K E A N O T H E R P R E P A R A T I O N S U C H A S D E V I L E D E G G S , OR A S A G A R N I S H

F O R S A L A D S OR V E G E T A B L E D I S H E S .

cooking eggs in
the shell
Check each egg c a re fu lly and discard any w ith cracked shells. Eggs should always be p ro p ­
erly re frig e ra te d u n til you are ready to cook them .
S elect a p o t deep enough f o r th e eggs to be subm erged in w a te r. Have on hand a s lo t­
te d spoon, skim m er, or spide r to rem ove eggs fro m the w a te r once th e y are cooked.
Place th e eggs in a p o t w ith enough w a te r to com p le te ly subm erge them (the w a te r
level should be a p p ro xim a te ly 2 in /5 cm above th e eggs) and add th e salt. It is com m on to
have th e w a te r already a t a sim m er when p re pa ring coddled and so ft-c o o k e d eggs. Hard-
cooked eggs may be s ta rte d in sim m e ring or cold w ater. In e ith e r case, low er the eggs gen­
tly in to th e p o t so the y w o n't crack, and re tu rn (or bring) th e w a te r to a simmer. Do n o t allow
th e w a te r to bo il rapidly. W a te r th a t is a t o r close to a sim m e r w ill allow the eggs to cook
evenly, w ith o u t tou ghe ning the w hites.
S ta rt tim in g th e cooking only once th e w a te r reaches a sim m er and cook to the desired
doneness. For exam ple, a 3 -m in u te egg cooks f o r 3 m inutes fro m th e tim e the w a te r re ­
tu rn s to a sim m er a fte r th e egg has been added to th e w ater. If th e tim in g is s ta rte d when
th e w a te r is cold, th e egg w ill n o t be p ro p e rly cooked. S im m er hard-cooked eggs fo r 10 to
12 m inutes.
H ard-cooked eggs are ea sie st to peel w hile th e y are s till warm . Place them under cold
running w a te r u n til th e y are cool enough to handle. G en tly press down and ro ll th e egg over
a c o u n te rto p to crack th e shell b e fo re peeling. Peel th e shell and m em brane away w ith your
fing ers.
The yolks o f p ro p e rly cooked s o ft-b o ile d eggs are w arm b u t s till runny, w hile tho se o f
m edium -cooked eggs are p a rtia lly coagulated. P rop erly hard-cooked eggs are co m p le te ly
and evenly coagulated, w ith firm b u t te n d e r (not tough) w h ite s and no u n sig htly green ring
surro un din g th e yolk.
The green ring is th e re s u lt o f a chem ical rea ction betw een the iron and s u lfu r n a turally
pre sen t in eggs, fo rm in g green iron su lfid e . H eat speeds up th is rea ction . The b e st way to
pre ven t th e green rin g fro m fo rm in g is to w a tch the cooking tim e clo sely and not allow the
eggs to cook longer than necessary. Quick cooling also helps keep th e ring fro m form in g.

848 BREAKFAST AND GARDE MANGER

 cooking eggs in the shell
B basic formula
Eggs Cooked in the Plenty of simmering water to
cook coddled, soft-, medium-, or
Shell
hard-cooked eggs; plenty of cold
(10 portions)
water to cover eggs if following
20 eggs (2 per portion) the alternative hard-cooked
method

ltb s p /lO g s a lt

method
at-a-glance
1. Submerge eggs in
simmering water.

2. Return w ater to a simmer.

3. Cook to desired doneness.

The proper doneness o f a hard-

boiled egg

ch a p te r 26 » CO O KING EGGS 849

 Prepare poached eggs by s l ip p in g s h e l le d eggs in t o barely s im m e r in g w ater a nd g en tly

C O O K I N G U N T I L T H E EG G H O L D S I T S S H A P E . T H E F R E S H E R T H E EG G , T H E M O R E C E N T E R E D T H E Y O L K , T H E

L E S S L I K E L Y T H E W H I T E I S TO S P R E A D A N D B E C O M E R A G G E D . T H E S E T E N D E R A N D D E L I C A T E L Y S E T E G G S

FO RM T H E BA SIS OF M A N Y D IS H E S . S O M E F A M IL IA R E X A M P L E S ARE EGGS B E N E D IC T OR F L O R E N T IN E ,

AN D PO ACHED EGGS U S ED AS A TO P P IN G FOR CO R N ED BEEF HA SH .

poaching eggs
Poached eggs can be p repared in advance and held s a fe ly throu gh ou t a typ ic a l service
period to m ake th e w orkload ea s ie r during service. S lig htly underpoach th e eggs, shock
them in ice w a te r to a rre s t the cooking process, trim th em , and hold th e m in cold w ater. A t
the tim e o f service, re h e a t th e eggs in sim m ering w ater.
Eggs are m o st o fte n poached in w ater, though o th e r liquids such as wine, stock, or
cream can also be used. Add vinegar and s a lt to the w a te r to encourage the egg p ro tein to
s e t fas te r. O therw ise, th e egg w h ite s can spread to o much b e fo re th e y coagulate.
Choose a n onreactive p ot th a t is deep enough fo r the eggs to rem ain com p le te ly sub­
m erged. The size o f th e pan depends on th e size o f the batch. Have cups to hold the raw
eggs, as w ell as a s lo tte d spoon, skim m er, or spider fo r re trie v in g th e eggs fro m th e w ater,
and pap er tow els to b lo t the eggs dry, a paring knife fo r trim m in g th e eggs, and holding and
serving pieces. An in s ta n t-re a d th e rm o m e te r helps to accurately m o n ito r th e te m p e ra tu re
o f th e w ater.

850 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
 o
p
D basic formula o
t r
i—*•
Poached Eggs 5 to 6 in/13 to 15 cm simmering Vi oz/14 g salt p e ri 2
(10 portions) water (165° to 180°F/74° to 82°C) gal/3.84 L water QTQ
20 very fresh eggs (2 per 8 fl oz/240 mL vinegar per n>
portion), chilled in individual 1 gal/3.84 L water QTQ
cups until ready to poach CTQ
C/3

method
at-a-glance
1. Add cracked eggs to
simmering poaching liquid.

2 . Cook to desired doneness.

The shape o f the finished poached egg can be af­
3. Remove eggs with slotted fected by its handling prior to and during the cooking process. For a desirable
spoon. shape, handle the eggs carefully when removing them from the shell, when

4 . Blot excess liquid and trim dropping them into the water, and when removing the finished poached eggs.

edges. This will lessen the chances for the yolk to break prior to the cooking process,
as well as prevent undesirable or "messy" finished products.
5 . To reserve, plunge in ice
water and drain.

c h a p te r 26 » CO O KING EGGS 851

 1. gently add the eggs one a t a tim e to
th e sim m ering (1 8 0 ° F /8 2 ° C ) poaching liquid. For the m ost
a ttra c tiv e shape, like a te a rd ro p , be sure th a t th e w a te r
is d eep enough. Fill a pan w ith w a te r to a d epth o f 5 to 6
in /1 3 to 1 5 cm and season it w ith ju s t enough vinegar and
s a lt to p re v e n t th e egg w h ite s fro m spreading. The v in e ­
gar and s a lt should be ju s t b arely p e rc e p tib le , not enough
th a t th e poached egg ta s te s stron g ly o f vinegar or salt.
G enerally, 8 fl o z /2 4 0 mL vineg ar and 1 tb s p /1 0 g s a lt fo r
each 1 g a l/3 .8 4 L o f w a te r are s u ffic ie n t.
To reduce th e chance o f b reakin g an egg in th e poach­
ing liquid, b re a k th e eggs into cups. Discard any eggs th a t
have blood spots on th e yolks. Pour th e egg fro m th e cup
into th e poaching liquid.
Once added, th e egg w ill drop to th e b o tto m o f the
p ot, then f lo a t to th e to p . The w h ite s w ill s e t around the
yolk to c re a te a te a rd ro p shape. The m ore eggs added to
th e w a te r a t once, th e m ore th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e w a te r
w ill drop and th e m ore tim e it w ill ta k e to p ro p e rly poach
th e egg. W o rking in sm a lle r batches is actu ally m ore e f ­
fic ie n t. It g en e ra lly ta k e s 3 to 4 m inutes to poach an egg
pro perly, depending on m a rk e t size.

2. use a slotted spoon, skim m er, or

s pid er to g e n tly lif t th e egg fro m th e w a te r. Blot the egg
on p ap er to w e ls to rem ove as much w a te r as possible. A
p ro p e rly poached egg should have a fu lly coagulated egg
w h ite and a w arm c e n te r th a t is only p a rtia lly set (slightly
thickened b ut s till flow ing ), and should be te n d e r w ith a
c om pact oval shape. If th e w h ite s a p p e a r ragged, trim
th e m w ith a paring kn ife to give a n eat appearance. The
poached egg is re a d y to serve now.

852 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
 T3
O
3. slightly undercook eggs (2 V2to3 P
n
m inutes) th a t w ill be chilled and held fo r la te r service. L ift
th e eggs fro m th e poaching liquid and subm erge th e m in i—»•
ice w a te r until w ell chilled. Trim any irre g u la r shaping o f P
th e w h ite around th e edges and hold in cold w a te r until Orq
service. Drain th e eggs and hold th e m in a p e rfo ra te d pan
a>
until tim e to re h e a t. To re h e a t th e egg, low er it into s im ­
Qrq
m ering w a te r fo r 3 0 to 6 0 seconds to finish cooking and Orq
p ro p e rly re h e a t it. S erve th e egg w hile s till very hot. c/a

ch a p te r 26 » CO O KING EGGS 853

F r ie d e g g s c a l l f o r p e r f e c t l y f r e s h e g g s , t h e c o r r e c t h e a t l e v e l , a n a p p r o p r ia t e a m o u n t

O F C O O K I N G FAT, A N D A D E F T H A N D . F R I E D E G G S A m E R I C A N ' S T Y L E M A Y BE S E R V E D S U N N Y S I D E U P

( n o t t u r n e d ) O R O V E R ( T U R N E D O N C e ). F R I E D E G G S M A Y BE B A S T E D W I T H F A T A S T H E Y F R Y . D l S H E S

L IK E H U E V O S R A N C H E R O S , FO R E X A M P L E , F E A T U R E F R IE D EG GS AS PART OF A H E A R T Y D IS H OF EGGS,

T O R T IL L A S , A N D B E A N S . T H E F R E N C H P R E F E R S H IR R E D EG GS ( S U R LE P L A T ), W H I C H A R E C O O K E D IN T H E

O VEN W IT H V A R IO U S G A R N IS H E S .

ying eggs
Using very fre s h eggs is th e only w ay to ensure a rich fla v o r and good appearance in the
finished dish. W hen very fre s h eggs are broken onto a p late, th e yolk sits high on th e w hite
near the w hite's center. The w h ite is com pact and th ic k and it holds th e yolk in place. When
th e egg is frie d , th e w h ite holds to g e th e r in a n eat shape and th e yolk is m ore likely to stay
in ta c t. As eggs age, th e w h ite and yolk w eaken and thin.
To p re p a re eggs fo r frying, b reak th e m into clean cups. Any eggs w ith broken yolks can
be reserved fo r a n o th e r use. R e frig e ra te th e shelled eggs. (This m ay be done up to 1 hour
in advance.)
Use oils, whole or c la rifie d b u tte r, or ren dered bacon f a t fo r frying, even if using a non­
stick surface. These cooking fa ts not only lub ricate th e pan; th e y can also add th e ir own
d is tin c t flavor. Season eggs w ith salt and p ep p e r as th e y cook fo r th e b es t flavor.
Fry eggs e ith e r in a s aute pan or on a griddle. The b est pan m a te ria ls fo r fry in g eggs are
w ell-season ed black s teel or nonstick surfaces. A h e a tp ro o f or m e ta l spatula or a p a le tte
knife is also needed fo r flip p in g and m oving th e eggs.
Place a fry in g pan over m edium heat. Add th e f a t to th e pan and continue to h eat un­
til the fa t is hot. The ideal te m p e ra tu re range fo r fry in g an egg is 2 5 5 ° to 2 8 0 ° F /1 2 4 ° to
1 3 8 °C — the sam e range a t which b u tte r sizzles w ith o u t turnin g brown. If using a griddle,
adjust its te m p e ra tu re and brush th e surface w ith oil or a no ther cooking fa t. If the heat
is to o low, the egg w ill stick; if it is to o high, the edges o f th e w h ite m ay b lis te r and brown
b efo re th e re s t o f th e egg is p ro perly cooked.
B reak the eggs into cups. Fried eggs should have in ta c t yolks, unless th e custom er re ­
quests th a t they be broken. Slide or pour th e egg out o f the cup and into th e pan.
Cook th e eggs until done as desired. H ere th e y are sunny side up. Eggs are done once
the w hites have coagulated; the yolks may be s o ft and runny or set. For eggs cooked over
easy or over hard, flip th e eggs or turn th e m w ith a spatula. You may b aste th e eggs w ith
hot f a t to s e t the to p instead o f turnin g them . Or sprinkle a fe w drops o f w a te r on th e egg,
cover th e pan, and le t th e w a te r steam th e eggs.
P rop erly frie d eggs have shiny, tender, fu lly s e t w hites and a fa irly com pact shape.
They are not b lis te re d or browned. Yolks should be p ro p e rly cooked, according to custom er
re q u e s t or intend ed use.

B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Q basic formula

Fried Eggs ONE OFTHE FOLLOWING

(1 0 portions) COOKING MEDIUMS:

20 very fresh eggs (2 per portion), Whole butter

refrigerated until ready to cook
Clarified butter

Cooking oils

Rendered bacon fat

m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
Heat fa t to 2 5 5 ° to
280°F /124° to 138°C.

2. Slide cracked eggs into

pan.

3. Cook to desired doneness.

ex p ert tips

T h G t y p e o f f 3 t u s e d will add additional flavor to the finished

fried egg. Depending on the desired result, any of the following fats can be
used to develop more flavor:

WHOLE OR CLARIFIED BUTTER / O LIVE OIL / INFUSED OILS / RENDERED BACON FAT

c h a p te r 26 » C O O KING EGGS 855

 S c r a m b l e d e g g s c a n b e m a d e in t w o w a y s : t h e e g g s c a n b e s t i r r e d c o n s t a n t l y o v e r l o w h e a t

F O R A S O F T , D E L I C A T E C U R D A N D A C R E A M Y T E X T U R E OR S T I R R E D L E S S F R E Q U E N T L Y A S T H E Y C O O K

F O R A L A R G E R C U R D A N D A F I R M T E X T U R E . W H E T H E R P R E P A R E D TO O R D E R O R TO S E R V E O N A B U F F E T

L I N E , S C R A M B L E D E G G S M U S T BE S E R V E D H O T, F R E S H , A N D M O I S T .

scrambling eggs
Choose eggs th a t are fresh , w ith in ta c t shells. Adding a small am ount o f w a te r or stock
(about 2 t s p /1 0 mL p er egg) to th e b ea te n eggs w ill m ake th e m p u ffie r as th e w a te r turns
to steam . M ilk or cream may be used to enrich the eggs. Scram bled eggs can be seasoned
w ith salt and pepper, a n d /o r fla v o re d or garnished w ith fre s h herbs, cheese, sauteed veg­
e ta b le s, smoked fish, or tru ffle s .
Eggs can be scram bled in a saute pan or on a griddle. Nonstick surfaces make it easy to
prepare scram bled eggs w ith a minimum am ount o f added fa t. Black steel pans are appro­
priate, as long as they are properly maintained and seasoned. Pans used fo r eggs should be
reserved fo r th a t use only, if possible. A h ea tp ro o f rubber spatula, wooden spoon, or spatula
is needed fo r stirring the eggs as they cook.
Blend the eggs ju s t until the yolks and w hites are com bined. Add liquid, if using, and
seasonings. Use a fo rk or a whisk to blend everything into a sm ooth, homogeneous m ixture.
H e a t th e pan and th e cooking f a t over m edium heat. Pour the eggs into th e pan; they
should begin to coagulate alm o st im m e d ia tely . Turn th e h ea t down to tow. Use th e back o f
a ta b le fo rk or a wooden spoon to s tir th e eggs as they cook. Keep both th e pan and the fo rk
in m otion to produce small, s o ftly s e t curds. The low er th e h ea t and the m ore c on stan t the
ag itatio n , th e cre a m ie r th e finished scram bled eggs w ill be. In fa c t, th e y may be p repared
by s tirrin g th e m c o n stan tly over a w a te r bath to p revent browning a lto gether.
Add garnishes, cheeses, or flav o rin g ing red ients once th e eggs are alm o st com pletely
set; fo ld th e s e ing red ients in over low heat, ju s t until inco rp orated . Rem ove th e eggs fro m
th e h eat when slightly underdone; they w ill continue to cook slightly fro m th e h ea t they
retain.
P rop erly p repared scram bled eggs have a m o ist te x tu re , cream y consistency, and d eli­
cate flavor. M o is tu re w eepin g fro m the eggs indicates th a t they w e re overcooked.

856 B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
 m
n
I-S

D basic formula
Scrambled Eggs Salt and pepper as needed
p

(10 portions)

20 to 30 eggs (2 or 3 per portion)

1 to 2 tbsp/15 to 30 m L oil, p
clarified butter, or rendered fat QTQ

Up to 1 tbsp/15 mL water, rt>

milk, or cream (optional) Crq
QTQ
in

method
at-a-glance
Whisk eggs and season.

2. Heat fa t over medium heat.

3. Add eggs and reduce heat

to low.

4. Cook, stirrin g the eggs expert tips

constantly, to the desired
doneness.
Depending on the desired result, theadditionof aliquid
can affect both the flavor and texture of the finished eggs. Liquids to consider
include:

W ATER / M IL K / H E A V Y CREA M

Garnishing scrambled eggs isanotherway to introduce

flavor and texture. Depending on the desired result, any of the following can
be added:

SPIC E S / FRESH H ERBS / GRATED C HEESE / COOKED BACON, H A M , OR

S A U S A G E /V E G E T A B L E S

c h a p te r 26 » CO O KING EGGS 857

 T h e r o l l e d ( F r e n c h - s t y l e ) o m e l e t s t a r t s o u t l ik e s c r a m b l e d e g g s , b u t w h e n THE e g g s s t a r t

to set , they are rolled o v e r . A f o l d e d (A m e r ic a n - s t y l e ) o m e l e t is prepared in m u c h the

s a m e m a n n e r , though it is o fte n co o k ed on a g r id d l e rather th a n in a PAN, a n d i n s t e a d o f

B E I N G R O L L E D , T H E A M E R I C A N O M E L E T IS F O L D E D I N H A L F .

making omelets
There are two other styles of omelets, both based upon a beaten mixture of eggs. Flat
omelets, known variously as farm er-style omelets, fritta ta s (Italian), or tortillas (Spanish),
are a baked version. The finished dish is denser and easier to slice into servings, and can be
served at room tem perature. Souffleed or puffy omelets are made from eggs firs t sepa­
rated into yolks and whites. The beaten whites are folded into the beaten yolks and the
dish is prepared by baking the omelet in a hot oven.
Choose eggs th at are fresh, with intact shells. As with scrambled eggs, the ability of
the egg to hold its shape is irrelevant, but fresh eggs are preferable. Season omelets with
salt, pepper, and herbs. Clarified butter is the most common cooking fat, although veg­
etable oils also work well.
Omelets may be filled or garnished with cheese, sauteed vegetables or potatoes,
meats, and smoked fish, among other things. These fillings and garnishes are incorporated
at the appropriate point to be certain they are fully cooked and hot when the eggs have
finished cooking. Grated or crumbled cheeses will melt sufficiently from the heat of the
eggs, and are often added just before an omelet is rolled or folded.
S tart larger frittata s, as well as souffleed omelets, in a pan heated in the oven with the
cooking fa t before adding the eggs. Add garnishes fo r fla t and souffleed omelets at the
start of cooking time. For rolled or folded omelets, add fillings such as cheese when the
curds are barely set.
Rolled and souffleed omelets are made individually in omelet pans, which are basically
small saute pans. Omelet pans should either be well seasoned or have a nonstick surface.
Treat pans carefully and avoid scratching a nonstick surface with metal. A wooden spoon
or heat-resistant rubber spatula is useful to stir the eggs as they cook.

CHEF'S NOTES ON OMELETS

Eggs for omelets should be beaten only
enough to blend the yolk and white, not
enough to incorporate air or make them
frothy.
Consider the size of the pan in relation
to the size of the omelet (number of eggs)
you are making. A pan that is too large or
too small will have an ill effect on the end
result of the omelet.
When selecting ingredients for filling
an omelet, consider the delicate flavor of
the eggs and select ingredients that will
complement and not overwhelm them.
Before you begin preparation, make
sure that you have all of your ingredients
and serving dishes assembled and within
easy reach, so that you can attend to cook­
ing the eggs.

858 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
 making omelets
Q basic formula

Omelet salt
(1 serving)
Pepper
2 or 3 eggs
1 to 2 tbsp/15 to 30 mL
Up to 2 tsp/10 mL water, stock, cooking fat
milk, or cream (optional)

m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
Blend the eggs, adding any
liquid and seasonings.

2. Pour or ladle the egg

m ixture into a heated and
greased pan.

3. Swirl the pan over the heat,

ex p ert tips
stirrin g and scraping the
eggs simultaneously, until Depending on the desired resuit, theaddition of aliquid
curds begin to form . can affect both the flavor and texture of the finished omelet. Liquids to con­

Add a fillin g , i f desired. sider include:

5. Cook the om elet until it is WATER / STOCK / M IL K / H E A V Y CREA M

set.
Garnishing 3n om elet is another way to introduce flavor and
texture. Depending on the desired result, any of the following can be added:

SPIC ES / FRESH HERBS / GRATED C HEESE / BACON, H A M , OR SAUSAGE /

VEG ETAB LES

Chapter 26 » C O O KING EGGS 859

 1. shell the eggs fo r omelets and blend with
a liquid, if using, salt, pepper, and seasonings as close to
cooking tim e as possible.
For souffleed omelets, separate the eggs into whites
and yolks. Blend the yolks with seasonings and any liquid
desired, then beat the whites to medium peak and fold
them into the yolk mixture.
A portion-size omelet pan should be heated over high
heat. Add the butter or oil and allow it to heat, as well. The fat
should appear lightly hazy but should not be smoking. Some
garnish ingredients are added to the pan before the eggs;
others are added when the curds are almost completely set,
depending on the desired results and recipe specifics.
Toward the beginning o f cooking, stir the eggs con­
stantly with the spatula to encourage even cooking. For
individually prepared rolled and folded omelets, keep the
eggs in constant motion as the om elet cooks. Cook rolled
and folded omelets over brisk heat to assure th at the
eggs begin to set almost imm ediately and don't stick to
the pan. If using an om elet pan, use one hand to swirl the
pan over the heat source and the other to stir the eggs
from the bottom and sides of the pan with the back of
a fork or a heat-resistant rubber spatula. Use a flexible
spatula to turn and stir an om elet cooked on a griddle.

2. gently shake the pan to evenly

spread the eggs in the pan or use a spatula to spread the
eggs fla t fo r the best presentation. Garnish the om elet as
desired. Make sure th a t the om elet is of a uniform thick­
ness or it will cook unevenly.

86o B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
 making omelets
3. to make a rolled omelet, usethe
spatula to fold over one-third o f the omelet.
Use a rubber spatula or a fork to roll the edge of the
omelet nearest the handle toward the center. Shake the
pan to loosen the omelet, to make it easier to roll onto the
plate.

4. hold the plate near the pan and

roll the om elet out onto the plate.
Roll the om elet out of the pan directly onto a heated
plate, completely encasing any filling; make sure the
edges are caught neatly underneath the omelet. It may be
necessary to shape the om elet with a clean towel.
Evaluate the finished omelet. A rolled om elet should
be oval in shape and golden-yellow in color, with a creamy,
moist interior. A folded om elet is a half-circle shape; the
exterior is sometimes allowed to take on a very light gold­
en color. A fla t om elet should be dense but moist, able to
be cut or sliced into servings, yet still hold its shape. A
souffleed om elet should be light and foamy, with slight
golden color on the upper surface; it starts to lose its vol­
ume rapidly a fte r coming out o f the oven, however, so be
sure to serve immediately.

c h a p te r 26 » CO O KING EGGS 861

 T h e P R EP ARA TIO N , AS S E M B L Y , AN D BA KING OF A S O U F F L E ARE NO T D IF F IC U L T TA SKS ON T H E IR O W N . T h e

T R I C K Y P A R T IS T I M I N G . S O U F F L E S , L I K E O M E L E T S A N D Q U I C H E S , A R E N O T S T R I C T L Y F O R B R E A K F A S T ;

I N FA CT, T H E Y A R E M O R E T Y P I C A L L Y P A R T O F T H E B R U N C H , L U N C H E O N , O R E V E N T H E D I N N E R M E N U ,

W H E R E S M A L L S O U F F L E S O F T E N AP PE AR AS HOT A P P E T IZ E R S , A S A V O R Y CO UR SE, OR AS A DESSERT.

savory souffles
The basic components o f any souffle, sweet or savory, are the base and beaten egg whites.
A heavy bechamel, often with the incorporation of egg yolks, is the base for many savory
souffles. Sweet souffles are often based on pastry cream. Other mixtures or preparations,
such as vegetable purees, can be used as the base or to flavor a base. It is important that
the base mixture provide enough structure to keep the souffle from collapsing as soon
as it is removed from the oven. The base may be flavored or garnished in many ways: with
grated cheese, chopped spinach, or shellfish, fo r example.
Egg whites give both volume and structure to the souffle. They should be carefully
separated from the yolks and beaten to soft peaks just before they are folded into the
base. Use meticulously clean bowls and whisks to beat the egg whites fo r the best volume
in the finished souffle. The yolks may be incorporated into the souffle base, or they may be
reserved for other uses. Be sure to keep eggs well chilled at all tim es fo r whotesomeness
and flavor.
A variety of sauces may be served with souffles. Cheddar Cheese Sauce (page 2 9 5 ) or
Mornay Sauce (page 29 5), vegetable coulis, or various tom ato sauces are appropriate for
savory souffles.
Souffles are usually baked in ceramic or glass souffle dishes or ramekins. For the best
rise, the sides of the dish should be straight. To prepare the molds, butter them lightly but
thoroughly and dust the sides and bottom with grated Parmesan, flour, or bread crumbs, if
desired.
The oven should be set to the appropriate tem perature, generally 4 0 0 ° to 4 2 5 °F /
20 4 ° to 218°C fo r an individual portion. The tem perature should be slightly lower for larger
souffles. Other equipment needs include a whisk or electric mixer and bowls for whipping
the egg whites, a spatula fo r combining the souffle mixture, and a sheet pan for baking.

862 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R

Q basic formula
Souffle
(1 serving)
A BASE, SUCH AS:
2 fl oz/60 mL heavy bechamel
for savory souffles
2 fl oz/60 mL pastry cream
for sweet souffles
method
at-a-glance
Prepare a base.
Add the flavoring.
3. Whip the egg whites.
Incorporate the whites into
the base.
5. Fill the molds.
6. Place them in a hot oven.
7. Do not disturb.
8 . Serve the souffles
immediately.
savory souffles
2 fl oz/60 mL vegetable puree SEASONINGS, FLAVORINGS, OR
(consistency similar to bechamel) GARNISH OPTIONS SUCH AS:
Salt and pepper
A LIGHTENER:
2 fl oz/60 mL egg whites, Vegetables
beaten to soft peaks
Grated cheese
The base contains the flavoring forasouffie. when add­
expert tips
a
ing flavoring or seasoning to the base, it is important that it be somewhat
strong. The addition of beaten egg whites will dilute the flavor, so the base
should start off very flavorful to account for this.
S o m e i n g r e d i e n t s that may be used as flavoring or seasoning for a
souffle base are as follows:
FLAVORED LIQUIDS FOR PREPARING THE BASE:
B RO THS / STO CKS / VEG ETAB LE JUICES OR PUREES
INGREDIENTS ADDED TO THE BASE AFTER ITS PREPARATION:
FIN ELY CHO PPED S EA FO O D OR M EA T / GRATED C HEESES / GRATED
VEG E TAB LE S / VEG E TA B LE PUREE
ch a p te r 26 » CO O KING EGGS 863
 1. make the base and blend in the
flavoring. Here, spinach and Parmesan are used.
The base mixture fo r many savory souffles is essen­
tially a heavy bechamel. Egg yolks are often tem pered
into the hot base to provide richness, flavor, color, and
structure. The base may be prepared in advance and
refrigerated. For the best rise in the finished souffle,
have the base at room tem perature, or else work it with a
wooden spoon until it has softened. Fold flavoring ingre­
dients such as pureed spinach into the base until evenly
blended.
Prepare the molds w ith a light film of butter and a
dusting o f flour, bread crumbs, or grated Parmesan.

m eth o d in d etail
2. whip the egg whites to soft peaks
and fold gently to blend the whites with the base.
S o ft peaks will produce the proper rise, texture, and
structure in the finished souffle. Add the beaten whites in
two or three parts. The firs t addition will lighten the base
so th a t subsequent additions will retain the maximum
volume.

864 BREAKFAST AND GARDE M ANGER

 savory souffles
3. fill the prepared molds as soon as
the egg whites are folded into the base.
Spoon or ladle the b atter into the mold gently to avoid
knocking air out of the batter. Fill molds about tw o-thirds
of the way full. Be sure to wipe the rim and outside of the
mold clean fo r a good, even rise.

4. place the souffles im m ediately in a hot

oven (4 2 5 °F /2 1 8 °C ) and bake until risen, cooked through,
and browned. For even cooking and a good rise, place the
molds on a sheet pan on a rack in the center o f the oven.
Bake the souffles as soon as the egg whites are folded
into the base. Do not disturb the souffles as they bake.
The drop in tem perature when the oven door is opened
could be enough to d eflate the souffle.
Remove individual souffles from the oven when done,
16 to 18 minutes. To check a souffle fo r doneness, shake
the dish very gently. The center should be firm and set. A
toothpick carefully inserted into the side of the souffle
should come out clean.
Serve the souffle immediately. Any accompanying
sauce should be hot and ready in a dish. The server should
be standing by, ready to serve the souffle as soon as it
comes from the oven.
A properly prepared souffle tastes of the primary
flavoring ingredient and is puffy, well risen, and browned.

c h a p te r 26 » CO O KING EGGS 865

 Hard-Cooked Eggs
Makes 10 servings
20 eggs
1 . Place the eggs in a pot. Fill the pot with enough cold
water to cover the eggs by 2 in/5 cm-
2 . Bring the water to a boil and immediately lower the
temperature to a simmer. Begin timing the cooking
at this point.
3 . Cook small eggs for 10 minutes, medium eggs for 11
minutes, large eggs for 12 to 13 minutes, and extra-
large eggs for 14 minutes.
4 . Cool the eggs quickly in cold water and peel as soon
as possible. Serve the eggs now or refrigerate until
needed.
NOTES: Cracking the eggsjust a fte r cooking w ill allow
the trapped gases inside to escape, thus reducing
the amount o f green discoloration around the yolk.
Additionally, the eggs w ill peel more easily if peeled as
soon as they are cool enough to handle. If allowed to cool
completely, the membrane under the skin tends to stick
to the hard-cooked egg white, making the egg d iff icult
to peel.
An alternative method fo r hard-cooking eggs is to remove
the pot holding the eggs from the heat when the water
reaches a boil. Cover the pot and let the eggs stand in the
hot water fo r 15 minutes. This method is best suited for
cooking large batches o f eggs (2 dozen or more).
Coddled Eggs: Lower cold eggs into already simmering
water and simmer fo r 30 seconds.
S o ft-C o o ke d Eggs: Lower cold eggs into already simmering
water and simmer fo r 3 to 4 minutes.
M edium -C ooked Eggs: Lower cold eggs into already
simmering water and simmer fo r 5 to 7 minutes.
866 B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Deviled Eggs
Makes 10 servings
10 Hard-Cooked Eggs (recipe precedes), cold
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
V2 o z/1 4 g prepared mustard
Worcestershire sauce, as needed
Hot sauce, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Slice the eggs in half lengthwise. Separate the yolks
from the whites. Reserve the whites separately until
ready to fill.
2 . Rub the yolks through a sieve into a bowl or place
them in a food processor.
3 . Add the mayonnaise, mustard, Worcestershire, hot
sauce, salt, and pepper. Mix or process the ingredi­
ents into a smooth paste.
4 . Pipe or spoon the yolk mixture into the egg whites,
garnish as desired, and serve immediately.
NOTES: The eggs can be separated and the fillin g mixed
in advance, but if the eggs are not to be served
immediately, the whites and the yolks should be held
separately until ju st before service.
Garnishes may include chopped parsley, minced chives,
sliced green onion tops, dill sprigs, pim iento strips,
chopped olives, caviar, shredded carrots, ground cumin,
dried oregano, cayenne, or red pepper flakes.
Substitutes fo r all or part o f the mayonnaise include soft
butter, compound butter, sour cream, pureed cottage
cheese, s o ft cream cheese, yogurt, or creme fraTche.
Deviled Eggs w ith Tom ato: Add 2 oz/5 7g sauteed tom ato
concasse, V2 tsp /1 g dried herb (basil, oregano, sage, or
thyme), and/or V2 ts p /1 .50 g sauteed minced garlic or
shallots to the yolk mixture.
Deviled Eggs w ith Greens: Add l 3/) oz/50 g blanched and
pureed spinach, watercress, sorrel, lettuce, or other
greens to the yolk mixture.
Deviled Eggs w ith Cheese: Add Va o z /2 1 g grated hard
cheese, or 2 oz/57 g s o ft cheese to the yolk mixture.
 Pickled Eggs
Makes10servings
10 Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866)
2 ts p /4 g dry mustard
2 ts p /6 g cornstarch
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL white wine vinegar
2 ts p /1 0 g s u g a r
1 ts p /2 g ground turmeric or Curry
Powder (page 369 or purchased)
1 . Place the eggs in a stainless-steel bowl or plastic stor­
age container.
2 . Dilute the mustard and cornstarch in i tbsp/15 mL
cold water in a small saucepan. Add the vinegar,
sugar, and turmeric. Bring the mixture to a boil over
medium heat and simmer for 10 minutes.
3 . Pour the mixture over the eggs. Cool the eggs and
pickling solution to room temperature, then cover
and refrigerate overnight. The eggs are ready to serve
at this point.
Red Pickled Eggs: Replace 8 flo z /2 4 0 m L o f the vinegar
w ith beet juice.
868 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
Poached Eggs
Makes10servings
1 g al/3 .8 4 L water
1 tb s p /1 0 g salt
2 f I o z/6 0 mL distilled white vinegar
20 eggs
1 . Combine the water, salt, and vinegar in a deep sau-
toir or rondeau and bring it to a bare simmer (160°
to i8o°F/7i° to 82°C).
2 . Break each egg into a clean cup, and then slide the
egg carefully into the poaching water. Cook until the
whites are set and opaque, 3 to 5 minutes.
3 . Remove the eggs from the water with a slotted
spoon, blot them on paper towels, and trim the
edges, if desired. The eggs are ready to serve now on
heated plates, or may be rapidly chilled and refriger­
ated for later service.

Poached Eggs Mornay
Makes 10 servings
20 toast rounds or ovals
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, melted
20 Poached Eggs (recipe precedes)
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Mornay Sauce (page 295), warm
3 o z/8 5 g grated Gruyere
1 . Brush the toast with butter and top with the poached
eggs. Coat with the sauce and sprinkle with cheese.
2 . Brown lightly under a broiler or salamander and
serve immediately.
Poached Eggs, F a rm e r-S ty le : Top each piece o f toast
w ith 1 peeled tom ato slice, 1 boiled ham slice, creamed
mushrooms, and a poached egg. Omit the Mornay sauce
and the cheese.
Poached Eggs w ith M ushroom s: Replace the toast with
ta rtle t shells. Fill w ith creamed mushrooms, top w ith a
poached egg. Omit the Mornay sauce and the cheese,
and coat w ith Flollandaise Sauce (page 298).
Poached Eggs M assena: Replace the toa st w ith cooked
fresh artichoke bottom s. Omit the Mornay sauce and the
cheese. Fill w ith Bearnaise Sauce (page 297), top w ith a
poached egg, coat w ith Tomato Sauce (page 295), and
sprinkle w ith chopped parsley.
(T>
OQ
Poached Eggs with
Corned Beef Plash $
Makes 10 servings
T3
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil or bacon fat a>
C/3
8 o z/2 2 7 g large-dice onions
5 o z/1 4 2 g large-dice parsnips
3 o z/8 5 g large-dice carrots
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g red-skin potatoes, peeled if desired
2 lb /9 0 7 g cooked corned beef, cut into l-in /3 -c m dice
3 tb s p /4 5 mL tomato puree
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
10 Poached Eggs (recipe precedes)
Hollandaise Sauce (page 298), as needed
1 . Heat a roasting pan over medium heat. Pour in 2
tbsp/30 mL of the oil, add the onions, and sweat
until they are soft, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the parsnips,
carrots, potatoes, and corned beef and cover with
foil.
2 . Place the pan in a 375°F/i9i°C oven and roast for
about 1 hour. Remove the foil, stir in the tomato
puree, and return the pan to the oven uncovered.
Cook until the tomato puree has browned, about 15
minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Cool slightly.
3 . Grind the mixture through a medium plate of a meat
grinder. Form into 10 patties (2 to 3 oz/57 to 85 g
each) by hand or using a circular mold. Refrigerate
until service.
4 . Heat the remaining 2 tbsp/30 mL oil in a heavy saute
pan or on a griddle. Cook the patties until crisp on
each side and hot in the center. Work in batches if
necessary.
5 . Top each of the patties with a poached egg and Hol­
landaise and serve immediately.
c h a p te r 26 » CO O KING EGGS 869
 fD
O S

Eggs Benedict Fried Eggs

Makes 10 servings Makes 10 servings 0>
n
20 Poached Eggs (page 868) 20 eggs ■

10 English muffins, split, toasted, and buttered 21/2 o z /7 0 g clarified or whole ^

butter, as needed for frying ^
20 slices Canadian bacon, heated
Salt, as needed
20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Hollandaise Sauce (page 298), warm
Ground black pepper, as needed

1 . If the eggs have been poached in advance, reheat

them in simmering water until warmed through. 1 . Break the eggs into clean cups (1 egg per cup).
Blot on toweling and shape if necessary. 2 . For each serving, heat 1V2 tsp/4 g butter in a small
2 . Top each English muffin half with a slice of Cana­ nonstick saute pan over medium heat. Slide 2 eggs
dian bacon and a poached egg. into the pan and cook until the egg whites have set.

3 . Ladle i to 2 tbsp/15 to 30 mL hollandaise over each 3 . Tilt the pan, allowing the fat to collect at the side of
the pan, and baste the eggs with the fat as they cook.
egg-
4 . Serve immediately. 4 . Season the eggs with salt and pepper and serve at
once on heated plates.

Eggs Florentine: Replace each slice o f Canadian bacon w ith

2 oz/57 g sauteed spinach.
Poached Eggs, Am erican-Style: Replace each slice of
Canadian bacon w ith 1 sauteed slice peeled tom ato and
replace the hollandaise w ith Cheddar Cheese Sauce
(page 295). Garnish w ith chopped cooked bacon and
parsley.
Eggs Over Easy, Medium, or Hard: Turn the eggs over near
the end o f th e ir cooking tim e w ith a spatula and cook
them on the second side until done as desired, 20 to
30 seconds fo r over easy, 1 minute fo r over medium, 2
minutes fo r over hard.

Poached Eggs with Chicken Liver Chasseur: Replace each

slice o f Canadian bacon w ith sauteed chicken livers and
replace the hollandaise w ith Chasseur Sauce (page 871).

Poached Eggs with Smoked Salmon: Replace the English

m uffin w ith a toasted bagel and replace each slice o f
Canadian bacon w ith 1 slice smoked salmon. Garnish
w ith minced chives.

c h a p te r 26 » C O O KING EGGS 871

Scrambled Eggs
Makes 10 servings
30 eggs
1 tb sp /1 0 g salt
1 ts p /2 g ground white pepper
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL water or milk (optional)
2 'A fI o z/7 5 mL clarified butter or oil
1 . For each portion, beat 3 eggs well and season with
salt and pepper. Add liquid (about 1 tablespoon), if
using.
2.. Heat a small nonstick saute pan over medium heat
and add butter, tilting the pan to coat the entire sur­
face. The pan should be hot, but not smoking.
3 . Pour the egg mixture into the pan and cook over low
heat, stirring frequently with the back of a fork or a
wooden spoon, until the eggs are soft and creamy.
Remove the eggs from the heat when fully cooked
but still moist.
4 . Serve at once on a heated plate.
Scram bled Egg W hites: S ubstitute 60 f I o z/1 .8 0 L e g g
whites fo r the whole eggs and om it the optional liquid.
For each serving, beat 6 fl o z/1 80 mL egg whites well
and season w ith salt and pepper. Heat a small nonstick
saute pan over medium heat and add the butter.
(Alternatively, use a light coating o f cooking spray, as
many contem porary high-protein diets call fo r little to
no fat.) Pour the egg m ixture into the pan. Use a rubber
spatula or a wooden spoon to gently pull the egg whites
into the center o f the pan, being careful not to break
the curds. Cook until the egg whites are s o ft and flu ffy .
Break the egg whites into curds at the end o f cooking.
Scram bled Eggs w ith Cheese: For each portion, add
V2 o z /1 4 g grated Gruyere or Cheddar to the eggs. If
desired, s tir V/ 2 tsp/7.50 mL cream into the eggs just
before removing them from the heat.
Scram bled Eggs, S w edish-S tyle: For each portion, add 1
oz/2 8 g chopped smoked salmon to the eggs. Garnish
w ith 1 tsp /1 g minced chives.
Scram bled Eggs, H u n te r-S tyle : For each portion, add V a
o z /2 1 g cooked diced bacon and V2 tsp/0.50 g minced
chives to the eggs. Prior to service, spoon 3 oz/85 g
sauteed sliced mushrooms on top of the scrambled
eggs.
BR E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
Scram bled Eggs w ith B ra tw u rs t: For each portion, top 2
sauteed slices peeled tom ato w ith the scrambled eggs
and 1 oz/2 8 g sliced cooked bratwurst.
Scram bled Eggs G ratine: For each portion, top the
scrambled eggs w ith Mornay Sauce (page 295), sprinkle
w ith grated Gruyere, and brown lightly under a broiler or
salamander.
Scram bled Eggs, G reek-S tyle : For each portion, slice 1
Japanese eggplant lengthwise into '/ 2-in /l-c m slices,
season w ith salt, and saute in oil. Saute 1 oz/2 8 g
tom ato concasse w ith garlic, salt, and pepper to taste.
Spoon the scrambled eggs on top o f the eggplant slices
and top the eggs w ith the tom ato concasse.
Plain Rolled Omelet
Makes 10 servings
30 eggs
1 tb sp /1 0 g salt
1 ts p /2 g ground white pepper
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL water, stock, milk, or cream (optional)
2 V i fI o z/7 5 mL clarified butter or oil, or as needed
1 . For each portion, beat 3 eggs well and season with
salt and pepper. Add 1 tablespoon liquid, if using.
2 . Heat a nonstick omelet pan over high heat and add
the butter, tilting the pan to coat the entire surface.
3 . Pour the egg mixture into the pan and scramble it
with the back of a fork, heatproof rubber spatula,
or wooden spoon. Move the pan and utensil at the
same time until the egg mixture has coagulated
slightly. Smooth the eggs into an even layer.
4 . Let the eggs finish cooking without stirring.
5 . Tilt the pan and slide a fork or spoon around the
lip of the pan under the omelet, to be sure it is not
sticking. Slide the omelet to the front of the pan and
use a fork or a wooden spoon to fold it inside to the
center.
6 . Turn the pan upside down, rolling the omelet onto
the plate. The finished omelet should be oval.
NOTES: Options fo r fillin g an omelet: A precooked fillin g
 r d

QTQ
GTQ
may be added to the eggs a fte r they have been smoothed mL sour cream, creme fraTche, or yogurt and 2 oz/57 g
cooked shrimp, smoked salmon, lobster, or other cooked i-i
into an even layer and before the om elet is rolled.
and/or smoked fish, caviar, or seafood. O)
Alternatively, the rolled omelet can be s lit open at the
top, and a precooked, heated fillin g or sauce can be S h e llfish O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith 3 or 4 oysters,
n
1—*<
spooned into the pocket. clams, or mussels th a t have been steamed b rie fly in id
b u tte r w ith wine and shallots. rD
To give the om elet additional sheen, brush the surface
C/3
lightly w ith butter. W estern O m elet: Fill each omelet w ith 1 oz/2 8 g each
sauteed diced ham, red and green peppers, and onions.
Add grated Monterey Jack or Cheddar, if desired.
Plain Rolled Egg W hite O m elet: S ubstitute 60 f I oz/1.80
L egg whites fo r the whole eggs and om it the optional Spanish O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith 2 oz/5 7g tom ato
liquid. For each serving, beat 6 f I o z/1 80 mL egg concasse or sauce and 1 o z/2 8 g each sauteed diced
whites well and season w ith salt and pepper. Heat onions and green peppers.
an om elet pan over medium heat and add the butter.
Jelly O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith 2 to 3 tb sp /3 0 to 45 mL
(Alternatively, use a light coating o f cooking spray, as
jelly, chutney, or other preserved fruits.
many contem porary high-protein diets call fo r little to
no fat.) Pour the egg m ixture into the pan. Use a rubber
spatula or a wooden spoon to gently pull the egg whites
into the center o f the pan, being careful not to break the
curds. Smooth the egg whites into an even layer and let
them finish cooking w ith ou t stirring. Finish as you would Farmer-Style Omelet
a plain omelet.
Makes 10 servings
Cheese O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith V2 o z /1 4 g g ra te d or
diced cheese such as Gruyere or Cheddar. 10 o z/2 8 4 g diced bacon or
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL vegetable oil
Cheese and V egetable O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith any
com bination o f cheese and vegetables in a sim ilar flavor 10 o z/2 8 4 g minced onion
profile, such as goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes, 10 o z/2 8 4 g diced cooked potato
Gorgonzola and sauteed spinach or mushrooms, cream
cheese and olives, or Gruyere and sauteed leeks. 30 eggs

M ea t and Cheese O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith 1 oz/2 8 g lt b s p /lO g s a lt

diced cooked meat (turkey, ham, or sausage) and 1 oz/ 1 ts p /2 g ground white pepper
2 8 g g ra te d cheese.

Herb O m elet: Before rolling, sprinkle each omelet with
2 tsp /2 g fin e ly chopped herbs such as parsley, thyme,
chervil, tarragon, basil, and oregano. Alternatively, the
herbs can be added to the eggs before cooking.
Tom ato O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith 2 f l oz/6 0 mL
relatively thick Tomato Coulis (page 296).
O m elet F lore ntin e: Fill each omelet w ith V/ 2 oz/43 g
sauteed spinach.
O m elet M arcel: Fill each omelet w ith 3 oz/8 5gsa utee d
sliced mushrooms and 1 oz/2 8 g sauteed sliced ham.
Garnish w ith minced chives.
O m elet Opera: Fill each om elet w ith 2 oz/5 7g lightly
sauteed chicken livers, deglazed w ith Madeira Sauce
(page 463). Garnish each om elet w ith 3 asparagus tips
and spoon 1 to 2 f l oz/30 to 60 mL Hollandaise Sauce
(page 298) on top.
S eafood O m elet: Fill each omelet w ith 2 to 3 ts p /1 0 to 15
1 . For each serving, render 1 oz/28 g of bacon in a small
cast-iron or nonstick skillet until crisp, or heat 1
tbsp/15 mL of the oil.
2 . Add 1 oz/28 g of the onions and saute over medium
heat, stirring occasionally, until light golden brown,
10 to 12 minutes.
3 . Add 1 oz/28 g of the potatoes and saute until lightly
browned, 5 minutes more.
4 . Meanwhile, beat 3 eggs together with salt and pep­
per. Pour them over the ingredients in the skillet and
stir gently.
5 . Reduce the heat to low, cover the skillet, and cook
until the eggs are nearly set.
6 . Remove the cover and place the skillet under a broiler
or salamander to brown the eggs lightly. Serve at
once on a heated plate.

ch a p te r 26 » CO O KING EGGS 873

Souffleed Cheddar 1 . To make the souffle base, heat the butter in a medi­
um saucepan over medium heat and stir in the flour.
Omelet Cook this roux over low to medium heat for 6 to 8
Makes 10 servings minutes, stirring frequently, to make a blond roux.
2 . Add the milk, whisking well until the mixture is very
30 eggs
smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer over
2 V i ts p /8 g salt low heat, stirring constantly, until very thick and
V A ts p /2.50 g ground white pepper smooth, 15 to 20 minutes.

5 o z/1 42 g grated sharp Cheddar 3 . Blend the yolks with some of the hot base to temper.
Stir the tempered yolks into the base mixture and
2 tb sp /6 g minced chives
continue to simmer over very low heat 3 to 4 min­
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL clarified butter or oil utes, stirring constantly. Do not allow the mixture to
boil.
1 . For each serving to order, separate 3 eggs. Beat the 4 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and strain
yolks and season with XU tsp/i g salt and a pinch of through a sieve, if necessary. The base is ready to use
pepper. Add the cheese and chives to the beaten now or may be cooled rapidly and stored for later
yolks. use.
2 . Whisk the egg whites to medium peaks and fold into 5 . To make the spinach souffles, prepare ten 6-fl oz/
the yolks. 180-mL ramekins by brushing them liberally with
3 . Pour the eggs into a preheated, well-oiled small cast- soft butter. Lightly dust the interior of each mold
iron or nonstick skillet. When the sides and bottom with grated Parmesan.
have set, finish the omelet in a 400°F/204°C oven until 6 . For each portion, blend together 2 fl oz/6o mL souf­
fully set and light golden on top. Serve immediately. fle base, 1 oz/28 g spinach, 1 tbsp/30 mL grated Par­
mesan, salt, and pepper until the spinach is evenly
distributed.
7 . Whisk 1 egg white for each souffle to soft peaks in
Spinach Souffle a clean mixing bowl. Fold about one-third of the
Makes 10 portions beaten white into the base. Stir in the remaining egg
white in one or two additions.
SOUFFLE BASE 8 . Spoon the souffle batter into the prepared molds to
2 o z/5 7 g butter within V2 inch/i cm of the rim. Wipe the rim care­
fully to remove any batter. Tap the souffles gently on
2 V i oz/71 g all-purpose flour
the counter to settle the batter. Sprinkle the souffle
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL milk tops with the remaining Parmesan.
Salt, as needed
9 . Place the souffles on a sheet pan in a 425°F/2i8°C
Ground black pepper, as needed oven and bake undisturbed until puffy and a skewer
15 egg yolks inserted in the center comes out relatively clean, 16
to 18 minutes. Serve immediately.
Butter, soft, as needed
Savory Cheese Souffle: Replace the 10 o z/2 84 g blanched
3 o z/8 5 g grated Parmesan, plus as
chopped spinach w ith 3 oz/85 g o f grated Gruyere or
needed for dusting molds
Emmentaler.
10 o z/2 8 4 g blanched chopped spinach

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

10 egg whites

BR E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R

Artichoke S ouffle
Makes 10 portions
10 globe artichokes
Lemon juice, as needed
Salt, as needed
13 eggs, separated
10 o z/2 8 4 grated Gruyere
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL milk
2 tb s p /1 8 g cornstarch
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Trim the artichokes and cook in simmering water
seasoned with lemon juice and salt in a medium
stockpot until tender. When the artichokes are ten­
der, drain well and scrape the flesh from the leaves;
discard the chokes and save the bottoms.
2 . Puree the artichoke flesh and bottoms, egg yolks,
Gruyere, milk, and cornstarch in a food processor.
Season with salt and pepper.
3 . Beat the egg whites to soft peaks in a clean mixing
bowl and fold into the artichoke mixture in three
additions. Pour the mixture into 10 greased 6-fl oz/
180-mL souffle ramekins.
4 . Bake in a 400°F/204°C oven until done, about 20
minutes. Serve at once.
O)
Qrq
QTQ
Warm Goat Cheese Hi
Custard a>
n
i—'«
Makes 10 servings
6 o z/1 7 0 g cream cheese, room temperature rt>
GO
9 o z/2 5 5 g soft goat cheese, room temperature
V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper, plus as needed
9 eggs
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL heavy cream
1 o z/2 8 g minced chives
1 tb sp /1 0 g salt, plus as needed
40 seedless green grapes
1 . Combine the cream cheese with 6 oz/170 g of the
goat cheese (reserve the remainder for garnish) in a
food processor. Season with the pepper and process
until very smooth.
2 . Add the eggs, 8 fl oz/240 mL of the cream, half of
the chives, and the salt. Pulse the processor on and
off until the ingredients are just blended. Divide the
mixture among 10 buttered 2-fl oz/6o-mL timbale
molds and cover the molds with buttered parchment
paper.
3 . Place the timbale molds in a bain-marie and bake in
a 325°F/i63°C oven until a knife inserted near the
center of a timbale comes away clean.
4 . Reduce the remaining cream by half and season with
salt and pepper to taste. Add the remaining chives
and the grapes to the cream immediately before
service.
5 . Unmold the timbales and coat with the sauce. Gar­
nish with the reserved goat cheese and serve
immediately.
NOTE: Replace the goat cheese w ith another s o ft cheese
such as Boursin, Brillat-Savarin, Camembert, or Brie.
ch a p te r 26 » C O O KING EGGS 875
Quiche Lorraine Tomato and Leek Quiche: S ubstitute 10 o z /2 8 4 g tom ato
concasse and 8 oz/227 g sauteed chopped leeks fo r the
Makes 10 servings
bacon: For the leeks, saute the white and light green
parts only in b u tte r until translucent. Add the tom ato
8 o z/2 2 7 g diced slab bacon
concasse and saute until the liquid evaporates. Add
1 o z/2 8 g butter or oil 2 tb s p / 6 g minced tarragon or basil.

6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL heavy cream Caramelized Onion Quiche: Substitute caramelized onions

fo r all or part o f the bacon: For 6 oz/170 g caramelized
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL milk
onions, cook 10 o z /2 8 4 g sliced onions in 2 tb sp /3 0 mL
4 eggs olive oil over medium-low heat until golden brown and
soft, about 15 minutes. Substitute Provolone fo r the
1 ts p /3 g salt
Emmentaler.
V* ts p /0.50 g ground black pepper
Smoked Salmon and Dill Quiche: Substitute 4 o z/1 1 3 g
Pinch ground nutmeg diced smoked salmon fo r the bacon and om it the firs t
step. S ubstitute 2 oz/57 g cream cheese, cut or broken
4 o z/1 1 3 g grated Emmentaler
into small pieces, fo r the Emmentaler. Add 2 tbsp /6 g
9 o z/2 5 5 g Basic Pie Dough (3 -2 -1 ) (page 1070), chopped dill and 1 tb sp /3 g minced chives.
rolled, f it into a 9-in /23-cm quiche pan, blind baked
Broccoli and Cheddar Quiche: Substitute 5 oz/142 g
broccoli flore ts, sauteed in olive oil until tender, fo r
1 . In a medium saute pan, render the bacon in the but­ all or part o f the bacon. S ubstitute Cheddar fo r the
ter until browned. Remove the bacon with a slotted Emmentaler.
spoon and drain. Discard the rendered fat or save for
another use.
2 . Whisk together the cream, milk, and eggs. Season
with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
3 . Scatter the bacon and cheese evenly over the crust.
Add the custard mixture gradually, stirring it gently
with the back of a fork to distribute the filling ingre­
dients evenly.
4 . Set the quiche pan on a sheet pan and bake in a
350°F/i77°C oven until a knife blade inserted in the
center comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Serve hot
or at room temperature.

NOTES: Quiche may also be baked w ithout a pastry crust.

Butter a shallow casserole or baking dish. Sprinkle it
with grated Parmesan, if desired. Spread the fillin g
ingredients over the casserole bottom . Pour the custard
on top. Bake in a bain-marie until a knife inserted near
the center comes out clean, about 1 hour.

Quiche may also be baked in ta rtle t shells, tim bale

molds, or custard cups.

Spinach Quiche: Substitute 1 lb /4 54 g spinach, blanched,

squeezed dry, and coarsely chopped, fo r all or part of
the bacon.

B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
French Toast Z . Combine the milk, eggs, sugar, salt, and cinnamon

Makes 10 servings and nutmeg, if using. Mix into a smooth batter. Re­
frigerate until needed.
30 Challah (page 1044) slices, c u t'/i
3 . Heat a large saute pan over medium heat and grease
to Vi in /6 mm to 1 cm thick
with Vz to i oz/141° 28 g butter, if using, or use a
1 q t/9 6 0 m L m ilk nonstick pan over medium heat.
8 eggs 4 . Dip 6 pieces of bread into the batter, coating the
2 o z/5 7 g sugar slices evenly. Fry the slices on one side until evenly

Pinch salt
browned; turn and brown the other side. Repeat the
process for the remaining bread. Keep warm in a
Pinch ground cinnamon (optional)
very low oven while cooking the remaining batches.
Pinch ground nutmeg (optional)
5 . Serve the French toast at once on heated plates.
5 to 10 o z/1 4 2 to 2 8 4 g butter (optional)
NOTE: Serve w ith b u tte r and maple syrup or honey.
Garnishing options include confectioners' sugar,
1 . Dry the challah slices on sheet pans overnight or in a
cinnamon sugar, toasted nuts, and/or fresh or dried fruit.
2oocF/93°C oven for l hour.
salad dressings
and salads
Salads appear on the menu in so many d ifferent guises today that it is easy

to imagine that they were invented by this generation of chefs. In fact,

fresh concoctions of seasoned herbs and lettuces have been relished in
every part of the world from the beginning of recorded culinary history.

CHAPTER 27
 V in a ig r e t t e s are t h o u g h t of m a in l y as d r e s s in g s for green s a l a d s , but they are used

in m a n y o th er w a ys as w e l l : a s m a r in a d e s f o r g r il l e d or b r o il e d f o o d s ; to d r e s s s a l a d s

M A D E F R O M PASTAS, G R A IN S , V E G E T A B L E S , A N D BE A N S; AS DIPS; AS S A U C E S S E R V E D W IT H H O T OR C O LD

E N T R E E S A N D A P P E T IZ E R S ; B R U S H E D ON S A N D W IC H E S .

vinaigrette
A vinaigrette is a tem porary emulsion made by blending oil, acid, and other ingredients un­
til they form a homogeneous sauce. The sauce remains an emulsion for a only a short time,
quickly separating back into oil and vinegar. Both oils and vinegars can be flavored. To add
flavor and help stabilize the sauce, an emulsifier is sometimes included.
A standard vinaigrette ratio of three parts oil to one part acid works well as a starting
point, but the vinaigrette needs to be tasted and evaluated whenever a change is made in
the type of oil, acid, or specific flavoring ingredients.
Select the oil with an eye to both its flavor and cost. Oils used in salad dressings can
be subtle or intensely flavored. Oils may serve simply to carry the other flavors in the vin­
aigrette, or they may have readily identifiable flavors of their own. Very strongly flavored
oils are often blended with less intense oils to produce a balanced flavor in the finished
sauce.
The choice of acid ranges widely as well, from vinegar, to fru it juice, to malted barley, to
similar acidic liquids. Every vinegar has a d iffe ren t level of tartness or acidity.
Additional vinaigrette ingredients include emulsifiers (egg yolks, mustard, roasted
garlic, fru it or vegetable purees, or glace de viande) and such seasonings as salt, pepper,
herbs, and spices. The challenge of making a good vinaigrette ties in achieving balance, a
point at which the acidity of the vinegar or juice is tem pered but not dominated by the rich­
ness of the oil.
Equipment needs for making vinaigrettes are minimal: measuring spoons or cups, a
bowl, and a whisk or a blender, immersion blender, food processor, or electric mixer.

880 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
 basic formula P
I—*«
GTQ
Vinaigrette 16 fl oz/480 mL vinegar CD
(2 qt/1.92 L) r-t
Salt, pepper, and other seasonings c+
I V 2 qt/1.44 L oil CD

1 . Combine the vinegar and

seasonings.

2. Slowly whisk in the oil until

a homogeneous m ixture is
formed.

3. Serve the dressing

im m ediately or store it. Good-quaiity oils and vinegars can be infused with spices,
4. Before dressing the salad, aromatics, herbs, and fruits or vegetables. They can be used in vinaigrettes
thoroughly recombine all and other dressings for a special effect. See Flavored Oils and Vinegars, page
the vinaigrette ingredients. 883, for instructions on these infusions.

CHEF'S NOTES ON VINAIGRETTES

The challenge to making a good vinaigrette
is to achieve a balance between the acid
and the oil, so that the flavor of the acid
comes through and is not dominated by
the oil.
The standard vinaigrette ratio is three
parts oil to one part acid. This is a good
starting point, but the flavor of a vinai­
grette should be evaluated and adjusted.
The acidity of citrus and vinegars vary
widely depending on the season or the
manufacturer, making it necessary to ad­
just the amount of oil.

c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 881
 1. combine the vinegar w ith th e em ul­
s ifie r and seasoning in g re d ie n ts f ir s t.
A dd in g th e m ustard , salt, pepper, herbs, or o th e r in ­
g re d ie n ts to th e vin eg ar is the e a sie st w ay to be sure they
are evenly dispe rsed th ro u g h o u t th e sauce f o r an even
fla v o r b e fo re adding th e oil.

m eth o d in d etail
2. add the oil gradually w hile w h iskin g
c o n s ta n tly to cre a te a th ick, e m u ls ifie d v in a ig re tte .
W hisk in th e oil, o r to cre a te a m ore sta b le v in a ig re tte ,
use a blender, im m e rsion blender, e le c tric m ixe r w ith a
w ire whip, o r fo o d processor. V in a ig re tte s made by m a­
chine hold th e ir em ulsion longer than tho se th a t are sim ­
ply w hisked to g e th e r.
Crum bled cheese, fre s h o r d rie d fr u its and ve g e ta ­
bles, or o th e r garnishes can be added, if desired. As the
v in a ig re tte sits, it w ill begin to separate. W hisk or s tir the
sauce b e fo re each use to reco m bin e the oil and vinegar.
Cover and re frig e ra te v in a ig re tte s when n o t in use. For
o p tim u m fla vo r, make v in a ig re tte s in q u a n titie s th a t w ill
la st no lo ng er than th re e days.
A w e ll-m a de v in a ig re tte should be n e ith e r to o sour
nor to o o ily and th e co n siste n cy o f th e sauce such th a t
i t clings nicely to th e greens w ith o u t lo okin g o r fe e lin g
greasy. The b e st w ay to check is to to s s som e o f th e salad
w ith th e v in a ig re tte and ta s te th e sauce on the salad.

882 BREAKFAST AND GARDE M ANGER


FLAVORED OILS AND VINEGARS
Good-quality oils and vinegars can be
infused with spices, aromatics, herbs,
and fruits or vegetables. Flavored oils and
vinegars work well as condiments, or as
a drizzle or droplets on a plated dish to
add a bit of intense flavor and color. They
are also excellent to use as dressings for
vegetables, pastas, grains, or fruits. And
of course, they cam be used in vinaigrettes
and other dressings for a special effect.
To flavor oils and vinegars, use one of
the following methods:
» Heat the oil or vinegar very gently over low
heat. The flavoring ingredients, such as
citrus zest or garlic, may be added to the
oil or vinegar as it warms. Let the oil or
vinegar steep off the heat with the flavoring
ingredients until cool, then pour into stor­
age bottles or containers.
» Heat the oil or vinegar without any added
flavorings, then pour it over the flavoring
ingredients and cool. Pour the infused oil
or vinegar into storage containers.
» Puree raw, blanched or fully cooked veg­
etables, herbs, or fruits. Bring the puree to
a simmer, reducing it if necessary to con­
centrate flavors. Add the puree to the oil or
<
I—■■
2
P
I—»■
vinegar and transfer to a storage container.
Qrq
Leave the oil or vinegar as is and use it like
CD
a puree, or strain it to remove the fibers
and pulp.
0)
» Combine room-temperature oils or vinegars
with ground spices and transfer them to a
storage container. Let the mixture sit until
the spices have settled in the bottom of the
container and the vinegar or oil is clear.
Refrigerate the flavored oil or vinegar to
rest for at least 3 hours and up to 36 hours.
The time will vary according to the inten­
sity of the flavoring ingredients and the
intended use. Taste the oil or vinegar occa­
sionally and, if necessary, strain or decant
it into a clean bottle.
Strain the vinegar or oil for a clearer
final product, or leave the aromatics in for
a more intense flavor. Add fresh aromat­
ics after the oil or vinegar has steeped for
several days to give am even more intense
flavor, if desired.
NOTE: Fresh or raw ingredients added
to an oil or vinegar increase the risk of
food-borne illness. Keep scratch-made ver­
sions refrigerated. Use within a few days
for the best flavor and color.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 883
 M a y o n n a i s e , b e c a u s e o f it s g r e a t v e r s a t i l i t y , is o f t e n i n c l u d e d in t h e l i s t o f t h e b a s ic o r

" g r a n d " S A U C E S P R E P A R E D I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L K I T C H E N . M A Y O N N A I S E IS A C O L D S A U C E M A D E BY

C O M B I N I N G EGG Y O L K S W I T H O I L T O F O R M A S T A B L E E M U L S I O N .

mayonnaise
Unlike vinaigrette, this sauce does not break as it sits. Mayonnaise and sauces made with
mayonnaise as a base can be used to dress salads or as a dip or spread. Among the famous
mayonnaise-based sauces are Remoulade Sauce (page 520), Green Mayonnaise (page
903), A'foli (garlic mayonnaise; page 904), and Tartar Sauce (page 903).
Classic recipes for mayonnaise call fo r 6 to 8 fl o z /1 8 0 to 2 4 0 mL of oil to each egg
yolk. Egg yolks provide both the liquid, which holds the oil droplets in suspension, and an
em ulsifier known as lecithin. To avoid any possible food-borne illnesses (such as those
caused by S alm on ella or E. coli), professional chefs should use pasteurized egg yolks.
Since mayonnaise is often intended as a base sauce to be used for a variety of pur­
poses, it is usually best to choose an oil th at does not have a pronounced flavor o f its own.
There are exceptions to this general rule, however. For example, a mayonnaise made with
extra-virgin olive oil or a nut oil would be appropriate to serve as a dip with a p latter of
grilled vegetables or crudites.
A small amount of mustard is often called for in mayonnaise. Though prepared mustard
is used as an em ulsifier in some cold sauces and vinaigrettes, its primary function in a may­
onnaise is flavor. Various acids may also be used to prepare a mayonnaise, including lemon
juice or wine or cider vinegars. The acid, along with water, flavors the sauce as well as pro­
vides additional moisture fo r the emulsification. Using distilled white vinegar also helps to
keep the mayonnaise white. Additional flavoring ingredients, such as garlic or herbs, may
also be needed as indicated by specific recipe and/or desired use.
Equipment needs fo r making mayonnaise are minimal: measuring spoons or cups, a
bowl, and a whisk are appropriate for small quantities. For large batches, use a blender,
food processor, or electric mixer. Mayonnaise sauces should be held in very clean storage
containers.

884 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
 mayonnaise
Q basic formula

Mayonnaise 2 tbsp to 2 fl oz/30 to 60 mL lemon 2tb sp /30m L w ater

(26 fl oz/780 mL [3'A cups])
3 fl oz/90 mL pasteurized
egg yolks (3 large)
juice, vinegar, or a combination
Salt, pepper, and other seasonings
2 tsp/4 g dry mustard (optional)
24 fl oz/720 mL oil

m eth o d
at-a-glan ce
Beat the egg yolks with a
small amount o f vinegar
and/or lemon and dry
mustard until they are Additional ingredients
ex p ert tips

can be added to develop more flavor.

frothy.
2. Gradually incorporate the
oil, beating constantly.
a
Some are added during the preparation of the mayonnaise to infuse flavors
and assist in the creation of the emulsion, while others can be added at the end
of the preparation:

3. Add a small amount of IN FU S E D O ILS / PR EPARED M U S TA R D / FRESH HERBS / SPIC E S

water as the mayonnaise

begins to s tiffe n .

4. Add any additional

seasonings or flavoring
ingredients such as lemon
juice, W orcestershire
sauce, or hot sauce.

5. Serve the dressing at

once or store it under
refrigeration.

c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 885
 1. blend the yolks with a bit of lemon juice
or vinegar and the dry mustard. Whisking the yolks with
vinegar or lemon juice prepares them to combine with the
oil to form a good thick mayonnaise. Whisk the yolks and
the chosen acid together to loosen the eggs.

m eth o d in d etail
2. pour the oil into the egg yolks
while whisking constantly.
Add the oil a little at a time, whisking it in completely.
S ta rt pouring slowly and gradually increase the amount of
oil. The oil must be whipped into the egg yolks so th at it
is broken up into very fine droplets. Adding the oil slowly
allows a good emulsion to begin to form. If the oil is added
too quickly, the droplets will be too large to emulsify
properly, and the sauce will appear broken. Once one-
quarter to one-third of the oil has been properly blended
into the egg mixture, start to increase the speed at which
the oil is added.
When preparing mayonnaise in a machine, add the oil
in a thin stream as the machine runs. It is still true th at the
oil should be added more slowly at the beginning than at
the end.
Adjust the thickness and flavor of the sauce by add­
ing a bit more acid or w ater when incorporating the oil.
The more oil th at is added to the yolks, the thicker the
sauce will become. Add more lemon juice, vinegar, or a
little w ater when the mayonnaise becomes very thick. If
this step is neglected, the sauce will become too thick to
absorb any more oil and can separate. Add any additional
flavoring or garnish ingredients at the point indicated in
the recipe.

886 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
 mayonnaise
3. by adding flavoring or garnish in­
gredients, a basic mayonnaise can be used to produce a
diffe ren t sauce. AYoli, a garlic-flavored mayonnaise, calls
for a good quantity of garlic to be included in the earli­
est stages of mixing. However, other ingredients may be
blended into the sauce once the oil is incorporated to cre­
ate sauces such as Remoulade Sauce (page 5 2 0) or Green
Goddess Dressing (page 901).
A properly made mayonnaise has a mild and balanced
flavor, w ithout any predominance of acidic or oily flavors.
It is thick, creamy, and completely homogeneous in te x ­
ture and appearance. The color is white or slightly o ff-
white, not greenish or yellow.
Keep mayonnaise refrigerated at all times once it is
prepared. Transfer it to a storage container, cover it care­
fully, and label it with a date. Before using mayonnaise
th at has been stored, stir it gently and check the season­
ing carefully. If the sauce needs to be thinned, add a bit of
water.

FIXING A BROKEN MAYONNAISE

Mayonnaise and similarly prepared dress­ A broken mayonnaise can be saved by

ings may break for a number of reasons: combining 2 tbsp/30 mL of pasteurized
» The oil was added too rapidly for the egg egg yolk with 1 tsp/5 mL water and beating
yolk to absorb it.
the mixture until foamy. Gradually add the
broken mayonnaise into the diluted yolk,
» The sauce was allowed to become too
whisking constantly, until the mayonnaise
thick.
regains a smooth, creamy appearance.
» The sauce became either too cold or too
warm as it was being prepared.

c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 887
 In IT S M O S T B A S I C F O R M , A G R E E N S A L A D ( S O M E T I M E S C A L L E D A T O S S E D S A L A D , M I X E D S A L A D , OR

GARDEN s a l a d ) IS M A D E O F O N E O R M O R E T E N D E R G R E E N S T O S S E D W I T H A D R E S S I N G . G A R N I S H E S

SU C H AS O T H E R V E G E T A B L E S , C R O U T O N S , A N D C H E E S E S AR E O F T E N I N C L U D E D AS W E L L . T h e SA LA D 'S

C H A R A C T E R IS D E T E R M I N E D B Y T H E G R E E N S S E L E C T E D . G R E E N S A R E O F T E N G R O U P E D A C C O R D I N G TO

TH E IR FLAVO RS A N d / o r TE X TU R E S .

green salads
Commercially prepared salad blends are available today, but chefs can also create their
own by combining lettuces from within one group or by selecting from among two or more
groups. For more information on specific salad green varieties, see Lettuce, page 154, and
B itter Salad Greens, page 156.
Separate the lettuce or other heading greens into leaves. Loose heads and bunching
greens will separate into individual leaves easily. Trim the coarse ribs or stem ends away if
necessary. To remove the core from heading lettuce, use a paring knife to cut out the core.
Greens and herbs used for salads are often quite sandy and gritty, and nothing is worse
than a g ritty salad. All greens, including prepackaged salad mixes, must be washed before
serving. Removing all traces of dirt from them is a very im portant part of the mise en place
for the pantry and hot line. Wash greens thoroughly in plenty of cool w ater to remove all
traces of dirt or sand.
Hydroponically raised greens, prepared as mesclun mixes and prerinsed, and "triple­
washed" bagged spinach, may need only a quick plunge or rinse with coot w ater to refresh
them. Other leafy greens should be cleaned by plunging them in a sink filled with cool
water. L ift them from the water, drain the sink, and repeat until there are no signs of grit
remaining in the water. Change the w ater as often as necessary until absolutely no traces
of dirt, grit, or sand are visible in the rinsing water.
Dry the greens completely. Salad dressings cling best to well-dried greens. In addition,
carefully dried greens last in storage longer. A key piece of equipment in salad making is
the spinner. This tool, which comes in both hand-operated and large-scale electric ver­
sions, uses centrifugal force to spin the w ater away from the greens so th at they have a
b etter flavor and dressing clings evenly to them. Use either a large-scale electric spinner
for volume salad making or a hand basket for smaller batches. Clean and sanitize the spin­
ner carefully a fte r each use. If a spinner is not available, drain the greens well, spread them
out in thin layers on sheet pans and air-dry inside a refrigerator.
Store cleaned greens in tubs or other containers. Once greens are cleaned and dried,
keep them refrigerated until you are ready to dress and serve them. Use cleaned salad
greens within a day or two. Do not stack cleaned salad greens too deep; their own weight
could bruise the leaves.
Cut or tear the lettuce into bite-size pieces. Diners should never be forced to use a
knife to cut the lettuce. Traditional salad-making manuals have always called fo r lettuces
to be torn rather than cut to avoid discoloring, bruising, or crushing the leaves. The choice
to either cut or tea r lettuce is primarily a m atter of personal style and preference. With
today's high-carbon stainless-steel knives, discoloration is not a problem. As long as the
blade is properly sharpened and a good cutting technique is used, the leaves will be sliced
rather than crushed or bruised.

888 B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
 green salads
Garnish and dress the salad. The dressing's flavor should be appropriate to the salad in­
gredients, because the dressing serves to pull all the flavors together. Use delicate dress­
ings with delicately flavored greens and more robust dressings with more strongly flavored
greens. Consider the weight and coating capabilities of different dressings as well. Vinai­
grettes coat lightly but evenly. Emulsified vinaigrette dressings and light mayonnaise dress­
ings, which are thicker than vinaigrettes, tend to coat the ingredients more heavily.
Choose garnishes according to the season and your desired presentation. Either toss
these ingredients with the greens as they are being dressed or marinate them separately
in a little vinaigrette and use them to top or place around the salad.
To dress a salad:

» Place the greens (about 3 o z /8 5 g or 6 fl o z /1 8 0 mL per serving) in a bowl.

» Ladle a portion of salad dressing over them (1 to 2 fl o z /3 0 to 60 mL per serving).

» Toss the salad using tongs, spoons, or, if appropriate, gloved hands.

» Be sure each piece of lettuce is coated completely but lightly, with just enough dress­
ing fo r the greens; if the dressing pools on the plate, there is too much.

CROUTONS

Croutons are often used as a garnish
for salads as well as soups and stews.
Croustades, crostini, rusks, and bruschetta
are all types of croutons. Some are cut into
slices, others into cubes or disks. Some are
toasted, some deep fried, some grilled, and
some broiled. (Large croutons, made to act
as the base for canapes, hors d’oeuvre, and
roasted or grilled meats, reflect medieval
European practices when plates were actu­
ally slabs of bread intended for consump­
tion once they had been well dampened
with juices and sauces from the meal.)
To make croutons:
» To toast croutons in the oven or under a
broiler or salamander, spread them in a
single layer on a sheet pan. Turn them
from time to time to toast them evenly and
check frequently to avoid scorching.
» To panfry croutons, add the bread to hot
clarified butter or oil in a saute pan, fry
until evenly browned, and drain well on
paper towels.
» Add herbs or grated cheese while still hot.
Good croutons are light in color, relatively
greaseless, and well seasoned with a crisp,
crunchy texture throughout.

» Cut bread (crusts removed or not) into the

desired size. Rub, spray, or toss the cubes
or slices lightly with oil or clarified butter,
if desired. Add salt and pepper.

c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 889
 F r u it s h a v e a v a r ie t y of c h a r a c t e r is t ic s , m a k in g s o m e f r u it sa la d s f a ir l y s tu r d y w h il e

OTHERS LO SE Q .U A L IT Y V E R Y RA PIDLY . F r UITS TH A T T U R N BROWN, SUCH AS A P PLE S, PEARS, AND

B A N A N A S , CAN BE T R E A T E D W I T H C I T R U S J U I C E TO K E E P T H E M FROM O X ID IZ IN G , AS LONG AS TH E

F L A V O R O F T H E J U I C E D O E S N ’T C O M P E T E W I T H T H E O T H E R I N G R E D I E N T S IN T H E S A L A D , A N D T H E Y A R E

N O T P R E P A R E D T O O FA R I N A D V A N C E .

fruit salads
Mixed fru it salads th at include highly perishable fruits can be produced fo r volume op­
erations by preparing the base from the least perishable fruits. The more perishable items,
such as raspberries, strawberries, or bananas, can then be combined with smaller batches
or individual servings at the last moment, or they can be added as a garnish. Fruits such as
bananas should not be cut and refrigerated but rather added at the last moment.
Fresh herbs such as mint, basil, or lemon thyme may be added to fru it salads as a fla ­
voring agent and/or garnish. Experiment to determine which herbs work best with the
fruits selected fo r the salad.
To prepare fruit salads, you must learn how to peel and slice or cut a variety of fruits. Be­
fore working with any fruit, be sure it is properly rinsed. To avoid cross contamination, clean
and sanitize cutting boards and tools properly. Refrigerate cut fruits until they are served.

APPLES

To prevent discoloration of the cut surfaces of apples, as well as pears, peaches, and ba­
nanas, prepare them as needed or, if necessary, toss them in w ater that has been acidulated
with a little citrus juice. Choose a juice with a flavor that complements the fruit's flavor.
There shouldn't be so much acid th at it overwhelms the fruit.
To clean and peel an apple, use the tip o f a paring knife to remove the stem and blossom
ends. Use a paring knife or swivel-bladed peeler to cut away the skin. Peel apples as thin as
possible to avoid trim loss. Once the peel is removed, halve from top to bottom and cut into
quarters. To core the quarters, work from the stem end, angling your cut to the midpoint of
the core, where it is deepest. Make a second cut working from the opposite direction.
To cut very even slices, use a mandoline. Working with a whole peeled apple, make slices
from one side of the apple until just before the core is reached. Turn and repeat on the op­
posite side. When the flesh has been removed from the two wide sides, slice the flesh from
the now-narrow sides of the apple.

CITRUS FRUITS

Citrus fruits, including oranges, lemons, limes, and grapefruit, are used to add flavor, mois­
ture, and color to dishes. They are also served as a functional garnish with some foods—
fo r instance, a wedge of lemon with broiled fish. Before juicing citrus fruits, allow them
to come to room tem perature, if possible. Roll the fru it under the palm of your hand on a
cutting board or other work surface before juicing to break some of the membranes. This
helps to release more juice. Remember to strain out the seeds and pulp, either by cover­
ing the fru it with cheesecloth before squeezing it or by straining it a fte r juicing. There are
numerous special tools to juice citrus fruits, including reamers, extractors, and hand-oper-
ated and electric juicers.

890 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
 fruit salads
Zesting citrus Making citrus supremes

Citrus zest is the outer portion of Cutting the flesh away from all the connective membranes of the fruit makes
the fruit’s peel or rind. It is used citrus supremes, also called sections or segments.
to add color, texture, and flavor to
dishes. The zest includes only the 1 . A f te r c u ttin g aw ay th e ends o f th e fru it, use a paring kn ife to rem ove
skin’s brightly colored part, which th e peel o f th e orange. Be c a re fu l to cut aw ay as little fles h as possible.
contains much of the fruit’s flavorful
and aromatic volatile oils. It does not 2. To m ake suprem es, use a p aring kn ife to cut along each side o f the
include the underlying white pith, m em brane th a t divides th e orange segm ents. Have a bowl ready to catch the
which has a bitter taste. You can use suprem es as you w ork.
the fine openings on a box grater or a
rasp to make grated zest, or a paring
knife, peeler, or zester for other cuts.
Zest is often blanched before it
is used in a dish to remove any un­
pleasant bitter flavor. To blanch zest,
cook it briefly in simmering water,
shock, and drain. Repeat as often
as necessary; generally two to three
blanchings are best. Add sugar to
the blanching water for a sweetened
zest.

c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 891
 Mangos

A mango has a flat seed in the center of the flesh. If cut from the stem end to
the pointed end of the mango, the flesh comes away from the pit more easily.
The fruit may be peeled before cutting the flesh from the pit, if desired. The
peel is left on to produce a special decorative cut known as the hedgehog cut.
To dice the mango for pureeing or for a less decorative approach, peel it by
making a series of cuts, removing as little edible fruit as possible. Cut a slice
from the other side of the pit, cutting as close to the pit as possible for the
best yield. Cut the remaining flesh from the two narrow sides, following the
curve of the pit. Cube or slice the mango as desired.
For the hedgehog cut, the mango is not peeled before the flesh is sliced
from the pit. This technique can be used to prepare mangos for salads or
other uses, or it may be used for a decorative presentation on a fruit plate.

1 . Use a c h e fs kn ife to c a re fu lly slice as close to th e p it as possible to

rem ove th e m o s t flesh. If desired, th e re m a in d er o f th e m ango can be peeled
and th e fles h cut aw ay fro m th e p it in o rd er to im prove th e yield.

2 . Use th e tip o f a paring kn ife or a u tility kn ife to score th e fles h in a cross-

hatch p a tte rn . This may be done on th e diagonal, as shown here, or using p e r­
p endicular cuts to produce cubes. The tip o f th e k n ife should n ot cut through
th e skin.

3. Turn th e m ango h a lf inside out; it w ill look like a hedgehog. Slice the
cubes aw ay fro m the skin now, or p re s e n t th e fru it as is on a fru it p late.

892 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R

Pineapples
A pineapple has a thick, spiny skin.
The flesh near the skin has “eyes” that
should be completely removed before
using the flesh in a salad or other pre­
sentations. Slice away the pineapple
top with a chef’s knife, and cut a slice
from the base of the pineapple.
Use a chef’s knife to peel the
pineapple. Make the cuts deep
enough to remove the eyes but not
so deep that a great deal of edible
flesh is removed. For even slices or
to make neat dice or cubes, slice the
pineapple vertically at the desired
thickness until you reach the core
on the first side. Turn the pineapple,
and make slices from the opposite
side as well as from both ends. Cut
the slices into neat julienne, baton-
net, or dice as desired.
fruit salads
Melons
Melons can be peeled before or after
cutting. To make the melon more
stable as you work, cut a slice from
both ends. You may remove the entire
rind before halving the melon and
removing the seeds to streamline pro­
duction of fruit plates and salads. Or
you may prefer to leave the rind on.
1 . A fte r c u ttin g th e to p and the
b o tto m o ff o f the melon, cut th e rind
away. Use a u tility or c h e fs kn ife to
fo llo w th e curve o f th e melon.
2. Cut the melon in h alf and scoop
out th e seeds. Be c a re fu l not to gouge
th e fles h o f th e fru it. The m elon can
now be m ade into melon balls, cut into
slices, or cut into cubes or diced.
3. Scoop m elon balls o ut o f the
cleaned melon h a lf using a parisienne
scoop.
ch a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 893
 H e a r t ie r t h a n green s a l a d s , salads in t h is categ o r y c o n t a in in g r e d ie n t s l ik e p r o t e in s ,

G R A IN S , A N D O T H E R N U T R IE N T - D E N S E FO O D S T H A T W O U L D M A K E T H E M A M A IN M E N U IT E M , SO T H E Y

C A N BE P R E S E N T E D A S A F U L L M E A L F O R L U N C H O R D I N N E R . W l T H THE EX C E P TIO N OF CO M PO SED

S A L A D S , T H E S E T Y P E S O F S A L A D S A R E B E S T P R E P A R E D A H E A D , S O T H E Y H A V E S O M E T I M E TO A L L O W

T H E F L A V O R S TO F U L L Y M A R R Y .

warm, vegetable
and composed
salads
WARM SALADS

Warm salad, known in French as salade tiede, is made by tossing the salad ingredients
in a warm dressing, working over medium-to-low heat. The salad should be just warmed
through. Another approach is to use a chilled crisp salad as the bed fo r hot main items such
as grilled meat or fish.

VEGETABLE SALADS

Prepare vegetables fo r this type of salad as required by the specific recipe. Some are sim­
ply rinsed and trimmed. Others need to be peeled, seeded, and cut into the appropriate
shape. Some vegetables require an initial blanching to set colors and textures, while others
must be fully cooked.
If the salad is to be served raw, combine the prepared vegetable or vegetables with a
vinaigrette or other dressing and allow them to rest long enough fo r the flavors to marry.
When the vegetable or vegetables are partially or fully cooked, there are two methods for
applying the dressing. In the firs t method, simply drain the vegetables and combine them
with the dressing while they are still warm, for faster flavor absorption. This works well for
root vegetables such as carrots, beets, and parsnips, as well as leeks, onions, and potatoes.
Some vegetables, especially green vegetables like broccoli or green beans, may dis­
color if they are combined with an acid in advance; in th at case, refresh the vegetables
before adding the dressing at service. Always be sure to thoroughly drain and blot dry the
vegetables to avoid watering down the dressing.

POTATO SALADS

Potatoes must be cooked completely but not overcooked. High-moisture potatoes hold
their shape a fte r cooking b etter than low-moisture potatoes do.

894 B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
 warm, vegetable, and composed salads
The classic American potato salad is a creamy salad, dressed with mayonnaise. Other
potato salads enjoyed around the world are often dressed with vinaigrette. In some tra ­
ditional European-style recipes, the dressing may be based on bacon fat, olive oil, stock,
or a combination of these ingredients. The dressing may actually be brought to a simmer
before the potatoes are added for the best finished flavor. Potatoes should be dressed
before they completely cool fo r b etter absorption of the flavors in the dressing.

PASTA AND GRAIN SALADS

Grains and pastas fo r salads should be fully cooked. However, care should be taken to avoid
overcooking because cooked grains and pasta will still be able to absorb some of the liquid
in the dressing and can quickly become soggy.
If a pasta or grain salad is held fo r later service, be especially careful to check for sea­
soning before it is served. These salads have a tendency to go fla t as they sit. Salt and
pepper are im portant seasonings, o f course, but others, such as vinegars, herbs, and citrus
juices, can give a brighter flavor.

LEGUME SALADS

Dried beans should be cooked until they are tender to the bite if serving at room tem ­
perature. If beans are to be served chilled, they should be slightly overcooked to ensure a
creamy texture. The center should be soft and creamy, and it is even possible th at the skins
may break open slightly. If a salad is made of several kinds of dried beans, it is important
th at beans with d ifferen t cooking times be cooked separately to the correct doneness be­
fore combining them.
Unlike grains and pastas, which might become too soft as they sit in a dressing, beans
will not soften any further. In fact, the acid in salad dressings will make the beans become
tougher, even if they are fully cooked. Bean salads, therefore, should not be dressed and
allowed to rest fo r extended periods. If the salad is used within four hours of preparation,
however, there is little significant texture change.

COMPOSED SALADS

Composed salads contain carefully arranged items on a plate, rather than components
tossed together. They are usually main-course salads or appetizers, rather than an accom­
paniment.
Although there are no specific rules governing the requirements for a composed salad,
keep the following principles in mind:

» Consider how well each of the elements combines with the others. Contrasting flavors
are intriguing. Conflicting flavors are a disaster.

» Repetition of a color or flavor can be successful if it contributes to the overall dish. But
generally, too much of a good thing is simply too much.

» Each elem ent of the dish should be so perfectly prepared th at it could easily stand on
its own. However, each part should be enhanced in combination with the others.

» Components should be arranged in such a way th a t the textures and colors o f the foods
are most attractive to the eye.

c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 895
Red Wine V inaigrette Chipotle-Sherry
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
V inaigrette
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine vinegar Makes 36 f l oz/i.o8 L
2 ts p /1 0 mL prepared mustard (for
emulsification; optional) 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL sherry vinegar

V 2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot 2 f I o z/6 0 mL lime juice

Salt, as needed 5 chipotles in adobo sauce, minced

Ground black pepper, as needed 2 shallots, minced

2 ts p /1 0 g sugar 2 garlic cloves, minced

24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL olive oil or canola oil Salt, as needed

3 tb sp /9 g minced herbs such as chives, parsley, Ground black pepper, as needed

oregano, basil, or tarragon (optional)
2 tb sp /2 8 g piloncillo or brown sugar

24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil

1 . Combine the vinegar, mustard, if using, shallots, salt,
pepper, and sugar. Gradually whisk in the oil. 1 o z/2 8 g minced Fines Herbes (page 369)

2 . Stir in the herbs, if using, and adjust seasoning with

salt, pepper, and sugar, if necessary. 1 . Combine the vinegar, lime juice, chipotles, shallots,
garlic, salt, pepper, and sugar. Gradually whisk in the
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
oil.
2 . Stir in the herbs and adjust seasoning with salt, pep­
W hite W ine V in a ig re tte : S ubstitute white wine vinegar fo r
the red wine vinegar. per, and sugar, if necessary.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
M u sta rd -H e rb V in a ig re tte : S ubstitute white wine vinegar
fo r the red wine vinegar, do not om it the mustard, and
add an additional 1 ts p /5 mL mustard, V2tsp /1 g onion
powder, and a pinch o f garlic powder. Use only 2 tb s p / 6 g
mixed herbs and add 2 tbsp /6 g chopped parsley.

Roasted G arlic and M u sta rd V in a ig re tte : Add 4 o z/1 1 3 g

pureed roasted garlic.

Lem on-G arlic V in a ig re tte : S ubstitute 6 f l o z/1 8 0 mL

lemon juice fo r the vinegar. Add 2 tsp /6 g garlic paste,
and 1 tsp /1 g minced rosemary.

Lem on-Parsley V in a ig re tte : S ubstitute 6 fI oz/1 80 mL

lemon juice fo r the vinegar. Add Z2 to 3/4 o z /1 4 to 21 g
chopped parsley.

B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
 salad dressing and salad recipes
Almond-Fig J . Stir in the tarragon and maple syrup. Adjust season­
ing with salt and pepper.
V inaigrette 4 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
Makes 44 fl oz/1.32 L

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL balsamic vinegar

4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL red wine, such as Zinfandel or M erlot

Balsamic Vinaigrette
4 shallots, minced
Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL
4 o z/1 1 3 g roasted and chopped almonds
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL red wine vinegar
Salt, as needed
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL balsamic vinegar
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 ts p /1 0 mL prepared mustard (optional)
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL almond oil
Salt, as needed
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL olive oil
Ground black pepper, as needed
5 'A o z/1 4 9 g chopped dried figs
V 2 ts p /2 .5 0 g sugar (optional)
Juice of 2 lemons
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL olive oil

1 . Combine the vinegar, wine, shallots, almonds, salt, 3 tb s p /9 g minced herbs, such as chives, parsley,
oregano, basil, or tarragon (optional)
and pepper in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the oils.
2 . Stir in the figs and lemon juice. Adjust seasoning
1 . Combine the vinegars, mustard, if using, salt, pep­
with salt and pepper.
per, and sugar, if using, in a bowl. Gradually whisk in
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
the oil.
2 . Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, and sugar, if nec­
essary. Mix in the herbs, if using.

Apple Cider 3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.

NOTE: The amount of sugar added to the vinaigrette will

V inaigrette depend on the quality o f the balsamic vinegar used.

Makes 54 fl oz/1.62 L

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL apple cider

6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL apple cider vinegar

1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cut into brunoise

2 t s p /6 g s a lt

!A ts p /0.50 g ground white pepper

24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL vegetable oil

2 tb sp /6 g minced tarragon

1 tb s p /1 5 mL maple syrup

1 . In a small saucepan, simmer the cider until it is re­

duced to 6 fl oz/i8o mL. Allow to cool.
2 . Combine the cider reduction, vinegar, apple, salt,
and pepper in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil.

c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 897
Curry V inaigrette
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
24 fI o z/7 2 0 mL olive oil
3 tb sp /19 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)
1 o z/2 8 g minced shallot
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic
V i o z/1 4 g minced ginger
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced lemongrass
(tender center portion only)
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL cider vinegar
Lemon juice, as needed
Honey, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Heat 3 fl oz/go mL of the oil in a medium saucepan
over low heat. Add the curry powder, shallots, gar­
lic, ginger, and lemongrass. Continue to heat until
the shallots are translucent. Do not brown. Remove
from the heat, let cool, and combine with the re­
maining oil.
2 . Combine the vinegar with the lemon juice, honey,
salt, and pepper in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the
oil.
3 . Adjust seasoning with lemon juice, honey, salt, and
pepper, if necessary.
4 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Honey-Poppy Seed-
Citrus Dressing
Makes 36 fl o z/i.08 L
24 f I oz plus 2 ts p /7 3 0 mL olive oil
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot
3 flo z /9 0 m L ketchup
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL red wine vinegar
2 fl o z/6 0 mL orange juice
2 fl o z/6 0 mL grapefruit juice
4 ts p /2 8 g honey
V 2 tsp /1 g dry mustard
I V 2 ts p /4 g poppy seeds
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Heat 2 tsp/10 mL of the oil in a medium saucepan
over medium heat and sweat the shallots until trans­
lucent. Add the ketchup, vinegar, juices, honey, mus­
tard, and poppy seeds. Bring to a simmer and cook
over low heat until bubbly and smooth, 1 minute.
Remove from the heat and cool the mixture to room
temperature.
2 . Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl and gradu­
ally whisk in the remaining oil. Season with salt and
pepper.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.

Fire-Roasted Tomato
V inaigrette
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
10 medium plum tomatoes
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL olive oil
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL red wine vinegar
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 tb sp /B g thyme
2 tb sp /6 g basil chiffonade
Hot sauce, as needed
1 . Wash and core the tomatoes and lightly coat them
with some of the oil. Char them over an open flame.
Peel, puree, and strain the tomatoes.
2 . Combine the vinegar, tomato puree, salt, and pepper
in a small bowl. Gradually whisk in the remaining
oil.
3 . Stir in the herbs and hot sauce. Adjust seasoning
with salt and pepper.
4 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
salad dressing and salad recipes
Guava-Curry
V inaigrette
Makes 36 fl oz/i.o8 L
4 o z/1 1 3 g guava paste
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine vinegar
2 tb s p /1 3 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)
Juice of 4 limes
1 Scotch bonnet, seeded, minced
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL olive oil
3 tb sp /9 g roughly chopped cilantro
1 . Combine the guava paste, vinegar, and curry pow­
der in a small saucepan and warm slightly until the
guava paste is melted. Allow the mixture to cool.
2 . Combine the guava mixture with the lime juice,
Scotch bonnet, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Gradually
whisk in the oil.
3 . Stir in the cilantro and adjust seasoning with salt
and pepper, if necessary.
4 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 899
 Truffle V inaigrette Peanut Oil and
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
Malt Vinegar Salad
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL red wine vinegar

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL balsamic vinegar

Dressing
2 fl o z/6 0 mL water Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL

2 ts p /1 0 mL Dijon mustard 24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL peanut oil

2 shallots, minced 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL malt vinegar
9 fl o z/2 7 0 mL mild olive oil 2 o z/5 7 g dark brown sugar
5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 2 tb sp /6 g chopped tarragon
3 tb s p /4 5 mL tru ffle oil 2 tb sp /6 g minced chives
2 ts p /1 0 g sugar 2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley
2 t s p /6 g s a lt 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

1 black or white tru ffle, chopped (optional)

1 . Combine the oil, vinegar, sugar, tarragon, chives,

1 . Mix together the vinegars, water, mustard, and
parsley, and garlic and blend well.
shallots.
2 . Refrigerate the dressing to age for 24 hours before
2 . Whisk in the oils gradually.
using. The herb flavors will infuse and distribute
3 . Season with sugar, salt, and pepper. Add the truffles through the dressing for extra flavor.
just before serving if desired.
3 . Stir to thoroughly recombine the ingredients and
season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately or
Herb and T ru ffle V in a ig re tte : Omit the mustard and add refrigerate for later service.
chopped parsley, marjoram, and m int to taste.

900 B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
 salad dressing and salad recipes
Pesto V inaigrette Green Goddess
Makes 32 fl 02/960 ml
Dressing
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine vinegar Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL
4 o z/1 1 3 g Pesto (page 299)
2 o z/5 7 g spinach
Salt, as needed
2 o z /5 7 g watercress
Ground black pepper, as needed
lt b s p / 3 g parsley
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL olive or vegetable oil
1 tb s p /3 g tarragon

1 . Combine the vinegar, pesto, salt, and pepper in a 1 garlic clove, mashed to a paste

bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil. 2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil

2 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary. 12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)

3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service. 1 tb s p /1 5 mL Dijon mustard

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

V inaigrette Lemon juice, as needed

Gourmande 1 . Puree the spinach, watercress, parsley, tarragon, and

garlic with the oil until smooth in a food processor
Makes 32 fl 02/960 mL
or blender. Combine the puree with the mayonnaise
and mustard.
5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL sherry vinegar
2 . Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.
3 fl o z/9 0 mL lemon juice
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL olive oil

12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL vegetable oil

V i o z/1 4 g minced chervil

V 2 o z/1 4 g minced tarragon

1 . Combine the vinegar, lemon juice, salt, and pepper

in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the oils.
2 . Stir in the chervil and tarragon and adjust seasoning
with salt and pepper, if necessary.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.

W alnut Oil and Red W ine V in a ig re tte : S ubstitute red

wine vinegar fo r the sherry vinegar, walnut oil fo r the
vegetable oil, and parsley and chives fo r the chervil and
tarragon.

c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 901
 Catalina French 2 . Season with salt, pepper, and hot sauce.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
Dressing Allow the dressing to come to room temperature
Makes 24 fl oz/720 mL before using.

3'A f I o z/1 0 5 mL pasteurized eggs

4 o z /1 13 g dark brown sugar

4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL apple cider vinegar Caesar-Style Dressing

2 ts p /1 0 mL Dijon mustard Makes 24 fl 0ZI720 mL
'/t ts p /0.50 g garlic powder
3 o z/8 5 g anchovy fillets
'A ts p /0.50 g onion powder
V 2 o z/1 4 g dry mustard or 1 tb sp /1 5 mL Dijon mustard
Pinch ground allspice
2 ts p /6 g garlic paste
Salt, as needed
2 to 3 tb sp /3 0 to 45 mL lemon juice, or as needed
Ground white pepper, as needed
2 tb sp /3 0 mL pasteurized egg yolks
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL Paprika Oil (page 9 0 7)
2 o z/5 7 g grated Parmesan

1 . Combine the eggs, sugar, vinegar, mustard, garlic
powder, onion powder, allspice, salt, and pepper in a
medium bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil.
2 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
Peanut Dressing
Makes 52 fl oz/1.56 L
V2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
18 fl o z/5 4 0 mL olive oil
Hot sauce, as needed
1 . Blend the anchovies, mustard, and garlic to form a
paste. Add some of the lemon juice, the egg yolks,
cheese, salt, and pepper. Gradually whisk in the oil.
2 . Add the rest of the lemon juice and hot sauce and
adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.

2 tb sp /6 g chopped tarragon

3 tb sp /9 g minced chives

3 tb sp /9 g chopped parsley

4 o z/1 1 3 g brown sugar

12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL malt vinegar

4 o z /1 13 g peanut butter

24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL peanut oil

8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL salad oil

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

Hot sauce, as needed

1 . Combine the garlic, tarragon, chives, parsley, sugar,

vinegar, and peanut butter in a bowl. Gradually
whisk in the oils.

902 B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R

Cucumber Dressing
Makes 24 fl oz/720 mL
12 o z/3 4 0 g peeled, seeded, and
thinly sliced cucumber
2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL sour cream
3 tb s p /9 g minced dill
1 tb sp /1 5 g sugar, or as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground white pepper, as needed
Hot sauce, as needed
1 . Puree the cucumber in a food processor until
smooth.
2 . Transfer the puree to a bowl and add the lemon
juice, sour cream, dill, and sugar. Blend until just
incorporated.
3 . Add the salt, pepper, and hot sauce and adjust sea
soning with sugar, if necessary.
4 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
salad dressing and salad recipes
Mayonnaise
Makes 32 fl 02/960 mL
2 V 2 f I o z/7 5 mL pasteurized egg yolks
2 tb s p /3 0 mL water
2 tb s p /3 0 mL white wine vinegar
2 ts p /4 g dry mustard or 2 ts p /1 0 mL
prepared mustard
'/2 ts p /2 .5 0 g sugar
2 4 fI o z/7 2 0 mL vegetable oil
Salt, as needed
Ground white pepper, as needed
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice
1 . Combine the yolks, water, vinegar, mustard, and
sugar in a bowl. Mix well with a balloon whisk until
the mixture is slightly foamy.
2.. Gradually add the oil in a thin stream, constantly
beating with the whisk, until the oil is incorporated
and the mayonnaise is smooth and thick.
3 . Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.
4 . Use immediately or refrigerate in a clean container
for later service.
NOTE: Olive oil or mild peanut oil may be substituted fo r all
or some o f the vegetable oil.
Anchovy-C aper Mayonnaise: To the prepared mayonnaise,
add 3 f I o z/9 0 m L lemon juice, 1 tb sp /1 5 m l Dijon
mustard, 3/4 0z/21 g minced shallot, 1 oz/2 8 g chopped
parsley, 1 o z/2 8 g m in ce d drained nonpareil capers, and
1 o z/2 8 g minced anchovy fille ts . Adjust seasoning with
salt and pepper.
T artar Sauce: To 2 4 f l oz/720 mL prepared mayonnaise,
add 12 oz/340 g drained sweet pickle relish, 2 oz/57g
minced drained capers, and 3 oz/85 gsm all-dice Hard-
Cooked Eggs (page 866 ). Season w ith W orcestershire
sauce, Tabasco sauce, salt, and pepper.
Green Mayonnaise: Puree 5 oz/142 g spinach leaves and
4 tb sp /1 2 g each chopped parsley, tarragon, chives,
and d ill in a blender. Mix the puree w ith the prepared
mayonnaise and 2 f l oz/6 0 mL lemon juice. Adjust the
consistency w ith water, if necessary. Adjust seasoning
w ith salt and pepper.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 903
 A io Ii
Makes 24 fl oz/720 mL
2 V i f I o z/7 5 mL pasteurized egg yolks
1 tb sp /1 5 mL water
2 V i ts p /7.50 g garlic paste
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
Salt, as needed
Cayenne, as needed
Lemon juice, as needed
1 . Combine the yolks, water, and garlic in a bowl. Mix
well with a balloon whisk until the mixture is slight­
ly foamy.
2 . Gradually add the oil in a thin stream, constantly
beating with the whisk, until the oil is incorporated
and the aioli is smooth and thick.
3 . Season with salt, cayenne, and lemon juice.
4 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
904 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
Blue Cheese Dressing
Makes 36 fl oz/i.o8 L
4 o z/1 1 3 g crumbled blue cheese
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL sour cream
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL buttermilk
3 f I o z/9 0 m L m ilk
1 tb sp /1 5 mL lemon juice, or as needed
1 o z/2 8 g pureed onion
2 ts p /6 g garlic paste
Worcestershire sauce, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Combine the cheese, mayonnaise, sour cream, but­
termilk, milk, lemon juice, onions, and garlic in a
medium bowl and mix until smooth.
2 . Add Worcestershire sauce, salt, and pepper and ad­
just seasoning with lemon juice, if necessary.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
Creamy Black
Peppercorn Dressing
Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL
28 fl o z/8 4 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL milk or buttermilk
3 to 4 o z/8 5 to 113 g grated Parmesan, or as needed
2 o z/5 7 g anchovy paste
1 o z/2 8 g garlic paste
2 tb s p /1 2 g coarsely ground black pepper
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Combine all the ingredients and mix well.
2 . Adjust seasoning with Parmesan, salt, and pepper, if
necessary.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
 salad dressing and salad recipes
Japanese Salad Ranch-Style Dressing
Makes 36 fl oz/i.o8 L
Dressing
Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL 12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL sour cream

12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)

8 o z/2 2 7 g chopped carrot
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL buttermilk
4 oz/1 IB g chopped onion
2 fl o z/6 0 mL red wine vinegar
4 o z /1 13 g chopped celery
3 tb s p /4 5 mL Worcestershire sauce
1 orange, peeled and seeded
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice
4 ts p /1 2 g minced ginger
1 tb s p /1 5 mL Dijon mustard
3 tb sp /4 5 mL light soy sauce
1 tb sp /9 g minced shallot
2Vz tb sp /3 7.50 mL ketchup
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley
2 fl o z/6 0 mL rice vinegar
1 tb sp /3 g minced chives
2 ts p /1 0 g sugar
2 ts p /6 g garlic paste
2 tb s p /3 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
1 ts p /2 g celery seed
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL vegetable oil
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed

1 . Puree the carrots, onions, celery, orange, and ginger

1 . Combine all the ingredients and mix thoroughly in a
in a blender or food processor. Transfer to a medium
medium bowl.
bowl.
2 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
2 . Whisk in the remaining ingredients and adjust sea­
soning with salt, if necessary. 3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.

3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.

Chapter 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 905
Thousand Island
Dressing
Makes 36 fl oz/i.o8 L
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL chili sauce
2 fl o z/6 0 mL ketchup
r /2 ts p /7.50 mL Worcestershire sauce
V / 2 ts p /7.50 mL hot sauce
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion
2 'A ts p /6 .7 5 g minced garlic
3 o z/8 5 g drained sweet pickle relish
2 Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866), finely chopped
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 tb s p /1 5 mL lemon juice, or as needed
1 . Combine the mayonnaise, chili sauce, ketchup,
Worcestershire, hot sauce, onions, garlic, relish, and
eggs in a medium bowl and mix well.
2 . Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
Basil Oil
Makes 16 fl mL
0 Z /4 8 0
3 o z/8 5 g basil leaves
1 o z/2 8 g parsley leaves
16 fl o z /4 8 0 mL olive oil
1 . In a small sauce pot, blanch the basil and parsley in
boiling salted water for 20 seconds. Remove from
the water, shock in an ice water bath, and drain well.
Blot the herbs dry on paper towels.
2. . Combine the blanched herbs with half of the oil in
a blender and puree until smooth. With the blender
running, add the remaining oil. Let stand 15 to 30
minutes.
3 . If desired, strain the basil oil through cheesecloth or
a coffee filter into a clean bottle or other container.
(This will take approximately 15 minutes to slowly
run through a coffee filter, but the result is a clear
oil.)
4 . Close the bottle and refrigerate. Use as needed.
NOTE: Substitute other herbs such as chives, tarragon, or
chervil fo r the basil. Keep the parsley in all cases to give
the oil a bright green color.

Orange Oil
Makes 18 fl oz/540 mL
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL olive oil
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
3 oranges, zest only, cut into strips
1 . Combine the oils in a saucepan and heat to
140°F/6o°C. Be extremely careful not to overheat
the oil. Remove from the heat and add the zest.
2 . Cool the oil to room temperature, refrigerate, and
infuse overnight.
3 . Strain the oil into a clean bottle or other container.
4 . Close the bottle and refrigerate. Use as needed.
Green Onion Oil
Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL vegetable oil
4 o z /1 1 3 g thinly sliced green onions
1 . Combine the oil and green onions in a small sauce­
pan and heat until the onions begin to sizzle. Re­
move from the heat and allow the mixture to cool.
2 . Puree in a blender and let stand 15 to 30 minutes.
Strain through cheesecloth or a coffee filter into a
clean bottle or other container.
3 . Close the bottle and refrigerate. Use as needed.
salad dressing and salad recipes
Paprika Oil
Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL vegetable oil
6 o z/1 7 0 g sweet paprika
1 . Combine the oil and paprika in a small saucepan,
warm to 120°F/49°C, remove from the heat, and
steep for 15 to 30 minutes.
2 . Strain the oil through cheesecloth or a coffee filter
into a clean bottle or other container.
3 . Close the bottle and refrigerate. Use as needed.
Mixed Green Salad
Makes 10 servings
1 lb 9 o z/7 0 9 g mixed greens such as romaine,
Bibb, Boston, red leaf, and green leaf
3 to 5 fl o z/9 0 to 150 mL White
Wine Vinaigrette (page 896)
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Rinse, trim, and dry the greens and tear or cut them
into bite-size pieces. Mix the greens and keep them
well chilled until needed for service.
2 . For each serving, place 2V2 oz/71 g of the lettuce in a
bowl.
3 . Add 1V2 tsp to 1 tbsp/7.50 to 15 mL of the vinaigrette
to the leaves. Season with salt and pepper. Toss the
salad gently to coat the leaves lightly and evenly.
4 . Mound the salad on a chilled salad plate and garnish
as desired. Serve immediately.
NOTE: When dressing mixed greens with a vinaigrette that
contains em ulsifiers or w ith a creamy-style dressing,
increase the amount to 8 f I oz/2 40 mL fo r 10 servings
(IV 2tbsp /2 2.50 mL per serving).
ch a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 907
 Thai Table Salad Caesar Salad
Makes 10 servings Makes 10 servings

10 red leaf lettuce leaves 1 lb 14 o z/8 51 g romaine lettuce

1 English cucumber, skin on, cut into julienne DRESSING

6 o z/1 7 0 g bean sprouts 2 ts p /6 g garlic paste
2 0 mint sprigs 5 anchovy fillets
30 Thai basil sprigs Salt, as needed
30 cilantro sprigs Ground black pepper, as needed
30 rau ram leaves 3 V i f 1o z/1 0 5 mL pasteurized eggs (whole or yolks)
10 saw leaf herb leaves 2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed

5 flo z /1 5 0 m L o liv e o il
Arrange the lettuce on a platter. Top with the cu­
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
cumbers and bean sprouts. Garnish with the herbs.
Serve immediately.
5 o z/1 4 2 g grated Parmesan, or as needed

15 o z /4 2 5 g Garlic-Flavored Croutons (page 563)

Smoked Bean Curd 1 . Separate the romaine into leaves. Clean and dry
them thoroughly. Tear or cut them into pieces, if

and Celery Salad desired. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Makes 10 servings
2 . For each serving, mash about Vs tsp/o.6o g garlic
paste, half an anchovy fillet, salt, and pepper into
1 2 3/ t o z/ 3 6 1 g celery, cut into julienne a paste in a wooden salad bowl. Add 2 tsp/io mL
egg and l tsp/5 mL lemon juice. Blend well. Add 1
' / t t s p / l g salt
tbsp/15 mL of each oil, and whisk to form a thick
'/> o z/1 4 g turbinado sugar
dressing. Add 1 to 2 tbsp/10 g grated Parmesan and 3
V* o z/7 g light soy sauce oz/85 g of the romaine. Toss until coated.
2 ts p /1 0 mL dark sesame oil 3 . Serve immediately on a chilled plate. Garnish with
1 ts p /3 g minced ginger 1V2 oz/43 g croutons.

1 ts p /3 g minced garlic NOTES: This salad is tradition ally prepared tableside.

V* o z/21 g minced green onion
It is im portant to clean and sanitize the wooden salad
8 o z/2 2 7 g smoked bean curd, cut into julienne bowls carefully a fte r each use.

The more tradition al raw or coddled egg is replaced with

1 . Spread the celery into a thin layer in a perforated a pasteurized egg here, to help ensure the safety o f the
guest.
hotel pan. Steam for l minute, then cool to room
temperature. Caesar Salad may also be made w ith Caesar-Style
Dressing (page 902).
2 . Combine the salt, sugar, soy sauce, sesame oil, gin­
ger, garlic, and green onions. Add the celery and
bean curd and toss to coat.
3 . Serve immediately.

NOTE: Be sure to cut the celery and bean curd uniformly.

908 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
 salad dressing and salad recipes
Wedge o f Iceberg Chef's Salad
Makes 10 servings
with Thousand Island
2 lb /9 0 7 g trimmed, washed, and dried mixed greens
Dressing 20 roast turkey slices, rolled tightly
Makes 8 servings
20 salami slices, rolled tightly

1 head iceberg lettuce 20 ham slices, rolled tightly

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mLThousand Island Dressing (page 906) 5 Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866), cut into wedges

6 o z/1 7 0 g cherry tomatoes, halved 10 o z/2 8 4 g Cheddar, cut into julienne

6 o z/1 7 0 g bacon, cooked crisp and crumbled 10 o z /2 8 4 g Gruyere, cut into julienne

10 tomato wedges

1 . Clean and cut the head of lettuce into 8 wedges. 3 o z/8 5 g thinly sliced cucumber

2 . Place each lettuce wedge on a chilled plate and top 3 o z/8 5 g thinly sliced carrot
with 2 fl oz/6o mL of the dressing. Garnish each por­
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Red or White Wine
tion with % oz/21 g each of the tomatoes and bacon. Vinaigrette (page 896)

3 . Serve immediately. 2 tb s p /6 g minced chives

I . Place the greens in a bowl or arrange them on a

salad platter.
2 .. Arrange the meats, eggs, cheeses, and vegetables on
the lettuce.
3 . Drizzle with the vinaigrette, top with chives, and
serve immediately.

c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 909
 Greek Salad Endive Salad with
Makes 10 servings
Roquefort and
1 lb /4 5 4 g lettuce, such as romaine
or green leaf, cut crosswise Walnuts (Salade de
30 tomato wedges

10 o z/2 8 4 g cucumber, sliced or diced

Roquefort, Noix, et
10 o z/2 8 4 g yellow pepper, julienne
Endives)
4 o z/1 1 3 g red onion, sliced into rings
Makes 10 servings
5 o z/1 4 2 g crumbled feta
2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice
20 to 30 pitted black olives (about 3 o z/8 5 g)
2 fl o z/6 0 mL hazelnut oil
20 to 30 pitted green olives (about 3 o z/8 5 g)
V / 2 ts p /1 .50 g chopped tarragon
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Lemon-Parsley
Vinaigrette (page 896) Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

1 . For each serving, place 1V2 oz/43 g lettuce in a bowl
or arrange on a salad plate.
2 . Arrange 3 tomato wedges, 1 oz/28 g cucumbers, 1
oz/28 g yello peppers, V4 oz/7 g onions, V2 oz/14 g
feta, and 4 to 6 olives on top of the lettuce.
3 . Drizzle with 2 tbsp/30 mL of the vinaigrette and
serve immediately.
NOTE: The ingredients may be combined and tossed w ith the
vinaigrette and then placed in a bowl or on a plate.
May be served w ith s tu ffe d grape leaves.
2 lb /9 0 7 g Belgian endive
2V2 oz/71 g toasted walnuts, roughly chopped
4 o z /1 1 3 g crumbled Roquefort
1 . Whisk together the lemon juice, oil, and tarragon in
a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Let dress­
ing stand for 30 minutes.
2 . Separate the endive into leaves, wash thoroughly,
and pat dry. Transfer to a large salad bowl.
3 . Add the walnuts and cheese. Add the dressing and
toss until the endive is thoroughly coated. Serve
immediately.

910 BRE AKF AS T AND GARDE M A N G E R


Cobb Salad
M akes 10 servings
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL vegetable oil
2 f I o z/6 0 mL cider vinegar
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice
2 tb s p /3 0 mL Dijon mustard
I/2 o z/1 4 g chopped parsley
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 lb /9 0 7 g shredded romaine lettuce
1 lb /4 5 4 g cubed roasted or smoked turkey
6 o z/1 70 g diced avocado
3 o z/8 5 g celery, sliced on the bias
2 o z/5 7 g green onions, sliced on the bias
10 o z/2 8 4 g crumbled blue cheese
10 bacon strips, cooked crisp and crumbled
1 . Blend the oil, vinegar, lemon juice, mustard, and
parsley thoroughly in a large bowl. Season with salt
and pepper.
2 . Add the lettuce and toss until combined. Divide the
lettuce among bowls or plates.
3 . Arrange the turkey, avocado, celery, and green on­
ions on the lettuce. Drizzle the dressing remaining
in the bowl over the salad. Top with cheese and ba­
con. Serve at once.
salad dressing and salad recipes
Taco Salad
M akes 10 servings
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg ground beef
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL Taco Sauce (page 914), or as needed
2 lb /9 0 7 g iceberg lettuce chiffonade
10 corn or flour tortillas (12-inch diameter),
shaped into bowls and fried
12 o z/3 4 0 g drained cooked pinto beans
12 o z/3 4 0 g drained cooked black beans
10 o z/2 8 4 g diced tomatoes
2 o z/5 7 g diced red onion
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL sour cream
10 o z/2 8 4 g shredded Cheddar or Monterey Jack
20 pitted black olives
16 fl o z /4 8 0 mL Pico de Gallo (page 953)
1 . Brown the beef in a large sautoir or small rondeau
over medium heat, stirring and breaking it up until
fully cooked and no longer pink, 12 to 15 minutes.
Remove the beef from the pan with a slotted spoon,
drain well, and combine with the taco sauce. The
mixture should hold together and be moist.
2 . Lay a bed of lettuce in the bottom of each tortilla
bowl. Layer with beans, the beef and sauce mixture,
tomatoes, onions, sour cream, cheese, olives, and
salsa. Serve immediately.
ch a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 913
Taco Sauce
Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
2 'A o z/71 g small-dice onions
2 V 2 ts p /7 .5 0 g minced garlic
4 ts p /8 g dried oregano
V A oz/B5 g ground cumin
3/ t o z/21 g Chili Powder (page 368 or purchased)
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL tomato puree
21 fl o z/6 3 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
Cornstarch slurry (see page 247), as needed
Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add
the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until the
onions are brown, 10 to 12 minutes.
Add the garlic and continue to saute another 1 to 2
minutes. Add the oregano, cumin, and chili powder
and cook until aromatic.
Add the tomato puree and bring to a simmer. Cook,
stirring frequently, until the mixture has reduced to
a nappe consistency, 10 to 12 minutes.
Add the stock and simmer until the sauce is well
flavored, 15 to 20 minutes.
Season with salt and pepper. Puree the sauce. Strain,
if desired. If necessary, thicken it with cornstarch
slurry. The sauce is ready to use now, or may be rap­
idly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Wilted Spinach Salad
with Warm Bacon
Vinaigrette
Makes 10 servings
8 o z/2 2 7 g diced bacon
l ' A o z/4 3 g minced shallot
2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
4 o z/1 1 3 g brown sugar
3 f I o z/9 0 mL cider vinegar
5 to 6 f I o z/1 5 0 to 180 mL vegetable oil
Salt, as needed
Cracked black peppercorns, as needed
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g spinach, washed and dried
5 Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866), cut into small dice
6 o z/1 7 0 g sliced mushrooms
3 o z/8 5 g thinly sliced red onions
4 o z /1 1 3 g Croutons (page 965)
1 . To make the vinaigrette, render the bacon in a medi­
um sautoir over medium-low heat. When the bacon
is crisp, remove it from the pan, drain, and reserve.
2.. Add the shallots and garlic to the bacon fat and
sweat until soft. Blend in the sugar. Remove the pan
from the heat. Whisk in the vinegar and oil. Season
with salt and pepper.
3 . Toss the spinach with the eggs, mushrooms, onions,
croutons, and reserved bacon. Add the warm vinai­
grette, toss once, and serve immediately.
Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby Greens with
Robiola Cheese and Walnuts

Mushrooms, Beets,
and Baby Greens with
Robiola Cheese and
Walnuts
M akes 10 servings
12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-size red beets
12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-size golden beets
Salt, as needed
4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 f lo z /6 0 mL olive oil
5 o z/1 4 2 g cremini mushrooms, sliced
5 o z/1 4 2 g white mushrooms, sliced
11 o z/3 1 2 g assorted wild mushrooms, sliced
10 fI o z/3 0 0 mL Herb and Truffle
Vinaigrette (page 900)
4 o z/1 1 3 g frisee hearts, separated into small pieces
2 o z/5 7 g baby arugula
4 o z/1 1 3 g mesclun greens
15 baguette slices, cut on the bias V* in /6 mm thick
1 lb 14 o z/8 51 g Robiola, soft
5 o z/1 4 2 g toasted walnuts, roughly chopped
Truffle oil, as needed
1 . Scrub the beets well and remove the tops. Place the
beets in separate pots with enough cold water to cov­
er by about 2 in/5 cm - Add salt and cook until tender,
30 to 40 minutes. Drain the beets and cool.
2 . Peel the beets with the back of a paring knife. Cut
into medium dice. Marinate them in the extra-virgin
olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and reserve.
3 . Heat a large saute pan over medium heat. Pour in
2 tbsp/30 mL olive oil. Add the cremini and white
mushrooms, being careful not to overcrowd the pan.
Saute them until golden brown and tender, 4 to 5
minutes. Remove the mushrooms and cool in a half
hotel pan. Repeat with the wild mushrooms and add
to the other mushrooms. Toss the mushrooms with
7V2 fl oz/225 mL of the vinaigrette and reserve.
salad dressing and salad recipes
4 . Combine the frisee, arugula, and mesclun and
reserve.
5 . Cut each baguette slice in half lengthwise. Brush
each slice with olive oil, place on a sheet pan, and
bake in a 400°F/204°C oven until golden brown on
the first side, about 2V2 minutes. Turn the croutons
over to brown the other side, about 2V2 minutes
more.
6 . Spread 1 oz/28 g cheese on one side of each crouton.
Season with salt and pepper.
7 . For each portion, place 2V2 oz/71 g of the mushroom
salad in the center of the plate. Toss 1 oz/28 g of the
greens with 1 tsp/5 mL vinaigrette and place on top
of the mushrooms. Place 2 oz/57 g of beets around
the greens and sprinkle with V2 oz/14 g walnuts.
Place 3 croutons on the greens. Drizzle a few drops
of truffle oil around the greens and serve.
Sherried Watercress
and Apple Salad
M akes 10 servings
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL vegetable oil
3 f I o z/9 0 mL sherry vinegar
1 o z/2 8 g minced shallot
1 ts p /5 g brown sugar
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g watercress, cleaned and stemmed
10 o z/2 8 4 g Golden Delicious apple,
peeled, cut into julienne
3 o z/8 5 g minced celery
2 o z/5 7 g toasted walnuts, chopped
1 . Combine the oil, vinegar, shallots, sugar, and salt and
pepper in a large bowl and whisk until combined.
2 .. Add the watercress, apples, and celery to the vinai­
grette and toss until evenly coated.
3 . Garnish with the walnuts and serve immediately.
C hapter 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 917
Baby Spinach, Ceieriac and Tart
Avocado, and Apple Salad
Makes 10 servings
Grapefruit Salad
Makes 10 servings DRESSING
3 fl o z/9 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
V/ 2 medium avocados, sliced
2 fl o z/6 0 mL creme fratche or sour cream
3 grapefruits, cut into supremes
2 fl o z/6 0 mL Dijon mustard
1 lb /4 5 4 g baby spinach
2 tb sp /3 0 mL lemon juice, plus more as needed
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL Balsamic Vinaigrette (page 897)
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed

2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice

1 . For each serving, combine 1 V4 oz/35 g avocado with
1 V2 oz/43 g grapefruit segments (about 3).
2 . Toss 1V2 oz/43 g of the spinach with 1 tbsp/15 mL of
the vinaigrette. Season with salt and pepper.
3 . Arrange the spinach on a chilled plate. Top it with
the avocado and grapefruit. Serve immediately.
Waldorf Salad
Makes 10 servings
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g medium-dice peeled apples
6 o z/1 7 0 g raw and peeled or
blanched small-dice celery
3 fl o z/9 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g ceieriac
12 o z/3 4 0 g medium Granny Smith
apples, peeled and diced
I . To make the dressing, combine the mayonnaise,
creme fraiche, mustard, and lemon juice and blend
well. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add the
2 fl oz/6o mL of lemon juice. Peel and cut the ceie­
riac into julienne.
3 . Parcook the ceieriac for about 2 minutes, drain,
shock in an ice water bath, and drain again. (Ensure
that the ceieriac is very dry.)
4 . Combine the apples and ceieriac and toss with the
dressing. Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, and
lemon juice.
5 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.

10 o z/2 8 4 g lettuce leaves

2 o z/5 7 g coarsely chopped walnuts, lightly toasted

1 . Combine the apples, celery, and mayonnaise in a

bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until
needed.
2 . Serve the mixture on a bed of lettuce. Garnish with
walnuts.

BREAKFAST AND GARDE M ANGER

 salad dressing and salad recipes
Chayote Salad with Summer Melon Salad
Oranges (5olada de with Prosciutto
Makes servings
Xuxu) 10

Makes 10 servings 1 lb /4 5 4 g cantaloupe balls or slices

1 lb /4 5 4 g honeydew balls or slices

2 or 3 chayotes, peeled, seeded, cut into julienne
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced prosciutto
8 o z/2 2 7 g ji'cama, cut into julienne
2 tb s p /3 0 mL aged balsamic vinegar
8 o z/2 2 7 g carrots, cut into julienne
Cracked black peppercorns, as needed
5 oranges, cut into supremes, juice reserved

I V 2 bunches green onions, thinly sliced on a bias 1 . Arrange the melons and prosciutto on chilled plates.
3 fl o z/9 0 mL lime juice 2 . Drizzle with the vinegar and garnish with the pepper.
r /2 ts p /7.50 g sugar 3 . Serve immediately.
Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

3 f I o z/9 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil

V / 2 o z/4 3 g cilantro, roughly chopped

Onion and Cucumber
3/ t o z/21 g mint chiffonade
Salad (Kachumber)
Makes 10 servings
1 . Combine the chayote, jicama, carrots, oranges, and
green onions gently in a medium bowl. 2 lb /9 0 7 g onions, cut into medium dice

2 . Combine the lime juice, sugar, salt, pepper, and 2 English cucumbers, cut into medium dice
reserved orange juice in a medium bowl. Gradually
1 lb /4 5 4 g plum tomatoes, seeded,
whisk in the oil. Pour the dressing over the chayote cut into medium dice
mixture and stir to combine. Chill the salad for 30
10 Thai chiles, chopped
minutes.
I V 4 o z/5 0 g roughly chopped
3 . Toss the salad once again and serve immediately. cilantro leaves and stems
Garnish with the cilantro and mint.
Juice of 5 lemons

Salt, as needed

1 . Combine the onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, chiles,

and cilantro. Refrigerate until needed.
2 . Ten minutes before service, add the lemon juice and
season with salt.
3 . Serve immediately.

c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 919
 Classic Polish Coleslaw
M akes 10 servings
Cucumber Salad
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL sour cream
(Mizeria Klasyczna) 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
M akes 10 servings
2 fl o z/6 0 mL cider vinegar

3 lb /1.36 kg English cucumbers 2 f I oz/6o mL dry mustard

t/2 ts p /1.50 g salt V / 2 o z/4 3 g sugar

8 f I o z/2 2 7 g sour cream I V 2 ts p /0 .5 0 g celery seed

l ' / t o z/3 5 g chopped dill V / 2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL hot sauce

1 tb s p /1 5 mL champagne vinegar Salt, as needed

or white wine vinegar
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 tb sp /3 0 mL lemon juice
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g green cabbage, shredded
Salt, as needed
6 o z/1 7 0 g carrots, shredded
Ground black pepper, as needed

1 . Combine the sour cream, mayonnaise, vinegar, mus­

1 . Peel the cucumbers, cut in half lengthwise, seed, and tard, sugar, celery seed, and hot sauce in a large bowl.
slice into thin half-moons. Place them in a bowl and Mix until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.
mix with the salt. Allow the cucumbers to rest for l
2 . Add the cabbage and carrots and toss until evenly
hour. Drain and squeeze them dry.
coated.
2 . Add the sour cream, dill, and vinegar to the cucum­
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
bers and mix. Season with lemon juice, salt, and
pepper.

3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.

Moroccan Carrot
Salad
M akes 10 servings

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL lemon juice

V 2 o z/1 4 g roughly chopped cilantro

V 2 o z/1 4 g sugar

4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil

2 lb /9 0 7 g finely grated carrots

4 o z/1 1 3 g raisins, plumped and drained

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

1 . Combine the lemon juice, cilantro, and sugar. Grad­

ually whisk in the oil.
2 . Toss the dressing with the carrots and raisins. Season
with salt and pepper.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.

920 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R

Corn and Ji'cama Salad
Makes 10 servings
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g corn kernels, fresh or frozen, cooked
1 lb /4 5 4 g ji'cama, peeled, cut into small dice
2 tb sp /3 0 mL lime juice
1 tsp /1 g roughly chopped cilantro
Pinch cayenne
Salt, as needed
Ground white pepper, as needed
1 . Combine the corn, jicama, lime juice, cilantro, and
cayenne in a bowl and toss. Season with salt and
pepper.
2 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
NOTE: This salad is best if prepared 30 minutes prior
to serving. If held fo r more than 2 hours, the jicama
becomes limp.
Jicama Salad
Makes 10 servings
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g ji'cama, peeled, cut into julienne
2 o z/5 7 g Granny Smith apples,
peeled, cut into julienne
2 o z/5 7 g red pepper, cut into julienne
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL yogurt, drained well in cheesecloth
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice
3/ t ts p /1.50 g ground cumin
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Combine the jicama, apple, and red pepper in a me­
dium bowl.
2 . Mix together the yogurt, lemon juice, and cumin in
a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Pour over
the jicama mixture and toss to combine.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
salad dressing and salad recipes
Green Papaya Salad
Makes 10 servings
2 large green papayas (see Note)
2 medium carrots
8 o z/2 2 7 g green cabbage chiffonade
DRESSING
V 2 bunch cilantro, roughly chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 Thai chile, stem removed
3/ f o z/22.5 mL small dried shrimp
2 tb sp /3 0 mL lime juice
V / 2 tb sp /21 g palm sugar
Salt, as needed
3 tb s p /4 5 mL fish sauce
1 . Peel, halve, and seed the papayas. Grate the papayas
using the large holes of a box grater or cut into juli­
enne using the fine die on a mandoline. Do the same
with the carrots. Combine the grated papayas and
carrots and the cabbage in a medium bowl.
2 . Combine the cilantro, garlic, Thai chile, shrimp,
lime juice, sugar, and salt in a blender and puree.
3 . Toss the dressing with the vegetables, while pound­
ing, and add the fish sauce. Adjust seasoning with
salt. The salad is ready to serve immediately, or may
be refrigerated for later use.
NOTE: The papaya must be green and hard fo r this
preparation. Garnish with chopped, toasted peanuts if
desired.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 921
 Cucumber and Sliced Daikon Salad
Wakame Salad (Mu Chae)
M akes 10 servings
(Sunonomo)
M akes 10 servings 1 lb /4 5 4 g peeled daikon

1 lb /4 5 4 g English cucumbers, sliced

1 lb /4 5 4 g cucumbers, peeled and into half-moons Ve in /3 mm thick
seeded, cut into julienne
1 ts p /3 g s a lt
4o z/11 3g fin e-ju lien n ed carrot
8 o z/2 2 7 g carrots, cut into julienne
2 ts p /6.50 g salt
2 fl o z/6 0 mL rice wine vinegar
1 tb sp /3.50 g dried wakame seaweed
V* o z /2 1 g sugar
1 tb sp /1 5 mL mirin
1 ts p /2 g Korean red pepper powder
2 fl o z/6 0 mL rice vinegar
V 2 ts p /2 .50 mL sesame oil
1 tb s p /1 5 mL light soy sauce

1 . Cut the daikon in half lengthwise, then into half­

1 . Toss the cucumbers and carrots with the salt. Trans­ moons Ms in/3 mm thick.
fer to a perforated pan set inside a solid pan and
2 . Toss the daikon and cucumbers with the salt, cover,
drain in the refrigerator for l hour.
and set aside to drain until the daikon is pliable,
2 .. Soak the wakame in warm water for 30 minutes. about 30 minutes. Gently squeeze out any excess
Drain in a colander and pour boiling water over it. water and transfer to another bowl.
Plunge the wakame into cold water and drain well.
3 . Add the carrots, vinegar, sugar, red pepper powder,
Trim off any tough parts and discard. Wrap the
and oil. Mix well, cover, and refrigerate until chilled.
wakame in cheesecloth and twist tightly to extract
the moisture. Cut the wakame into chiffonade and
reserve.
3 . Whisk together the mirin, vinegar, and soy sauce.
Pour half the mixture over the cucumbers and car­ Cucumber Salad
rots. Toss gently and squeeze to remove excess salt. M akes 10 servings
Drain off the liquid.
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL rice wine vinegar
4 . Pour the remaining dressing over the cucumbers and
carrots. 3 V 2 o z/9 9 g sugar

5 . At the very last minute before service, add the sea­ 2 ts p /6.50 g salt

weed and toss to combine. Serve immediately. 3 English cucumbers, halved lengthwise,
cut into y8-in/3-m m slices

1 medium red onion, quartered lengthwise,

cut into Va-\n/3-m m slices

1 tb sp /9 g red jalapeno, halved lengthwise,

cut into '/8-in/3-m m slices

4 tb sp /1 2 g roughly chopped or torn mint leaves

V * o z/2 1 g cilantro leaves

1 . Combine the vinegar, sugar, and salt in a saucepan.

Warm over low heat, whisking constantly until the
sugar and salt are dissolved. Do not boil. Cool to
room temperature.

922 B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R

Combine the cucumbers, onions, and jalapenos in
a nonreactive bowl. Add the vinegar mixture. Mari­
nate for 30 minutes.
Drain the salad and serve immediately. Garnish with
mint and cilantro.
Cucumber Yogurt
Salad
M akes 10 servings
1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g English cucumber,
peeled, seeded, and diced
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Greek-style yogurt
2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
2 tb sp /6 g chopped mint
1 o z/2 8 g green onions, minced
V 2 tsp /1 g ground cumin
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Toss the cucumbers with salt to coat in a colander.
Allow the cucumber to sit for at least 30 minutes to
drain them of their excess liquid. Press the cucum­
bers lightly to remove additional moisture.
2 . Combine the cucumbers with the yogurt, garlic,
mint, green onions, cumin, and pepper in a medium
bowl. Reserve under refrigeration until needed for
service.
salad dressing and salad recipes
Chicken Salad
M akes 8 servings
2 q t/1 .9 2 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
Salt, as needed
1 o z/2 8 g crushed garlic cloves (optional)
1 lb 9 o z/7 0 9 g boneless, skinless chicken breasts
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
2 o z/5 7 g roughly chopped pecans
4 o z/1 1 3 g grapes, halved
2 tb sp /6 g finely chopped marjoram
3 tb sp /9 g finely chopped chervil
3 tb sp /9 g finely chopped tarragon
2 tb sp /6 g finely chopped oregano
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Pour the stock into a sauce pot, season with salt, and
add the garlic, if desired. Poach the chicken breasts
in the stock over medium heat until they are fork-
tender and fully cooked, 30 to 35 minutes.
2 . Remove the chicken from the stock. (Strain and
reserve the stock for another use, or discard.) Allow
the chicken to cool to room temperature. Cut into
medium dice.
3 . Combine the chicken with the mayonnaise, pecans,
grapes, marjoram, chervil, tarragon, and oregano.
Season with salt and pepper.
4 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 923
 Hue-Style Chicken
Salad
Makes 10 servings
3 chickens (about 3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg each)
1 o z/2 8 g salt
1 tb s p /6 g coarsely ground black pepper
l 3/ t o z /5 0 g sugar
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL lime juice
3 o z/8 5 g onion, sliced into paper-thin rings
10 Thai chiles, thinly sliced
3>/2 o z/99 g torn rau ram leaves
31/2 o z/9 9 g torn mint leaves
3'/2 o z/9 9 g torn cilantro leaves
2 fl o z/6 0 mL peanut oil
2 fl o z/6 0 mL fish sauce
2 f I o z/6 0 mL Vietnamese sambal
10 Boston lettuce leaves
12 o z/3 4 0 g Steamed Long-Grain Rice (page 785)
6 red Fresno chiles, cut into paper-thin slices
I V 2 o z/4 3 g Crispy Shallots (recipe follows)
1 . Bring a stockpot of salted water to a vigorous boil.
Add the chickens, return to a boil, and simmer for 15
minutes. Turn off the heat, cover the pot, and let the
chickens sit until they reach an internal temperature
of i65°F/74°C, about 45 minutes.
2 . Remove the chickens from the pot and plunge them
into cool water for 10 minutes. Remove and discard
the skin and bones. Shred the meat into thin strips.
Refrigerate until chilled.
3 . Season the chicken with the salt, pepper, and sugar.
Add the lime juice, onions, Thai chiles, rau ram,
mint, cilantro, oil, fish sauce, and sambal and toss
gently.
4 . Serve the salad in a lettuce leaf with steamed rice.
Garnish with three rings of Fresno chile and the
crispy shallots.
924 B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Crispy Shallots
Makes oz/1 1 3 g
4
10 o z/2 8 4 g peeled shallots
2 4 fl o z/7 2 0 mL vegetable oil
1 . Evenly slice the shallots Vs in/3 mm thick. Separate
them into rings and spread them on a paper towel-
lined sheet pan to air-dry for 30 minutes. (This tech­
nique helps make the shallots crisp.)
2 . Heat the oil in a heavy pot to about 28o°F/i38°C.
Add the shallots and stir often with a spider until
they are golden and crisp. Remove the shallots from
the oil and drain on the sheet pan. Allow the shallots
to cool.
3 . Serve immediately or store in a covered container
for later service.
Tuna Salad
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g water-packed tuna
4Y2 o z/1 2 8 g small-dice celery
l '/2 o z/4 3 g small-dice red onion
3/ t o z/21 g chopped dill
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
1 tb sp /1 5 mL lemon juice
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Drain the tuna in a colander. Squeeze out the excess
liquid by handfuls, then flake the tuna into a large
bowl.
2 . Add the celery, onions, dill, mayonnaise, and lemon
juice and mix thoroughly. Season with salt and
pepper.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
NOTE: Add 4 o z /1 1 3 g d ic e d pickles or drained pickle relish
fo r additional flavor.
 salad dressing and salad recipes
Egg Salad Shrimp Salad
Makes 10 servings Makes 10 servings

2 lb /9 0 7 g small-dice Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866) 2 lb /9 0 7 g cooked shrimp, peeled and deveined

4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903) 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)

6 o z/1 7 0 g minced celery 8 o z/2 2 7 g minced celery

3 o z/8 5 g minced onion 3 o z/8 5 g minced onion

Salt, as needed Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed Ground white pepper, as needed

V 2 tsp /1 g garlic powder, or as needed

1 tb s p /1 5 mL Dijon mustard, or as needed

1 . Coarsely chop the shrimp (leave small shrimp
whole).

1 . Combine the eggs, mayonnaise, celery, and onions 2 . Combine the shrimp, mayonnaise, celery, and onions
and mix well. Season with salt, pepper, garlic pow­ and mix well. Season with salt and pepper.
der, and mustard. 3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
2 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.

Pasta Salad with

Ham Salad Pesto Vinaigrette
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g diced or ground smoked ham
2 lb /9 0 7 g cooked penne pasta, cooled
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
10 o z/2 8 4 g tomatoes, diced or cut into wedges
1 to V/2 o z/2 8 to 43 g drained sweet pickle relish
4 o z/1 1 3 g ham, diced or cut into julienne (optional)
1 to 2 tb s p /1 5 to 30 mL prepared mustard
3 o z/8 5 g diced red or sweet onion
Salt, as needed
2 o z/5 7 g pitted olives, chopped
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 o z/2 8 g toasted pine nuts

1 . Combine the ham, mayonnaise, relish, and mustard 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Pesto Vinaigrette (page 901)

and mix well. Season with salt and pepper. Salt, as needed

2 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service. Ground black pepper, as needed

Combine all the ingredients. Marinate for several

hours in the refrigerator before serving.

c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 925
European-Style
Potato Salad
Makes 10 servings
5 o z/1 4 2 g small-dice onion
3 f I o z/9 0 mL red wine vinegar
8 f 1o z/2 4 0 mL White Beef Stock (page 263)
3 tb sp /4 5 mL prepared mustard, or as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 ts p /5 g sugar, or as needed
3 fl o z/9 0 mL vegetable oil
3 lb /1.36 kg cooked waxy potatoes,
peeled and sliced, warm
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley or minced chives
1 . Combine the onions, vinegar, and stock and bring to
a boil. Add the mustard, salt, pepper, and sugar. Stir
in the oil. Immediately pour the hot dressing over
the warm potato slices. Toss gently to mix.
2 . Sprinkle the salad with the parsley or chives. Let it
stand for at least l hour before serving at room tem­
perature, or cool and refrigerate for later service.
Potato Salad
Makes 10 servings
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg cooked Red Bliss
potatoes, peeled and sliced
6 o z/1 7 0 g small-dice Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866)
5 o z/1 4 2 g diced onion
5 o z/1 4 2 g diced celery
2 tb sp /3 0 mL Dijon mustard, or as needed
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
Worcestershire sauce, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
1 . Combine the potatoes, eggs, onions, and celery in a
large bowl. Mix the mustard with the mayonnaise
and Worcestershire sauce. Add to the potato mixture
and toss gently. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
Eastern Mediterranean
Bread Salad (Fottoush)
Makes 10 servings
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg Pita Bread (page 1037)
18 fl o z/5 4 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL lemon juice
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL red wine vinegar
1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped thyme
1 tsp/2gcayenne
3/ t o z/21 g sugar
6 o z/1 7 0 g chopped green onions
2V i oz/71 g chopped parsley
2 lb /9 0 7 g plum tomatoes, seeded, cut into medium dice
2 lb /9 0 7 g English cucumbers, peeled,
seeded, cut into medium dice
10 o z /2 8 4 g sliced radishes
6 o z/1 7 0 g small-dice yellow pepper
1 . Cut the pita bread into small wedges. Toss the pita
wedges with 3 fl oz/go mL of the oil, salt, and pepper.
Bake on a sheet pan in a 300^/149°C oven, turning
once halfway through the baking, until crisp but not
brittle, 15 minutes.
2 . Combine the lemon juice, vinegar, garlic, thyme, cay­
enne, sugar, and salt and pepper. Gradually whisk in
the remaining oil.
3 . Combine the dressing with the green onions, parsley,
tomatoes, cucumbers, radishes, and yellow peppers. Add
the pita toasts and gently toss. Adjust seasoning with salt
and pepper.
4 . Serve immediately, or refrigerate for later service.

Panzanella
Makes 10 servings
8 o z/2 2 7 g stale or toasted Italian
bread, torn into medium pieces
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g large-dice tomatoes
2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
3 o z/8 5 g celery hearts, sliced thin on the bias
8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice peeled, seeded cucumber
6 o z/1 70 g medium-dice red pepper
6 o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice yellow pepper
salad dressing and salad recipes
20 anchovy fillets, thinly sliced (optional)
2 tb s p /1 0 g drained, rinsed capers
3 tb s p /9 g basil chiffonade
10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Red Wine Vinaigrette
(page 896), or as needed
Combine the bread, tomatoes, garlic, celery, cucum­
bers, peppers, anchovies, if using, capers, and basil.
Add the vinaigrette and toss to coat.
Serve immediately, or refrigerate for later service.
927
Tomato and Green Lentil Salad
Mozzarella Salad (5olade des Lentilles
Makes 10 servings
du Puy)
3 lb /1.36 kg sliced tomatoes Makes 10 servings
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g sliced fresh mozzarella
1 onion pique
10 fl o z/2 8 4 g Red Wine Vinaigrette (page 896)
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g French green lentils, sorted and rinsed
Salt, as needed
2 garlic cloves
V2 o z/1 4 g basil chiffonade
1 o z/2 8 g finely minced shallot
Cracked black peppercorns, as needed
1 tb sp /1 5 mL Dijon mustard

Place the tomatoes and mozzarella slices alternately 3 tb s p /4 5 mL red wine vinegar

on a plate and drizzle the vinaigrette over the top. Salt, as needed
Season with salt. Garnish with the basil and pepper. Ground black pepper, as needed
Serve immediately.
3 tb s p /4 5 mL extra-virgin olive oil

2 o z/5 7 g chopped parsley

Roasted Peppers 1 . Place the onion in a medium pot with the lentils and
garlic. Cover with cold water by 1 in/3 cm- Cover the

(Peperoni Arrostiti) pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce
the heat to low and simmer until the lentils are
Makes 10 servings
tender but still intact, 25 to 35 minutes. The cook-
ing liquid should be absorbed when the lentils are
4 lb 4 oz/1.93 kg roasted red and
yellow peppers (see page 639) cooked.

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL olive oil 2 . Discard the onion and garlic. Toss the warm lentils
with the shallots.
2 o z/5 7 g golden raisins
3 . Combine the mustard, vinegar, salt, and pepper.
2 o z/5 7 g toasted pine nuts
Gradually whisk in the oil. Adjust seasoning with salt
1 o z/2 8 g chopped parsley
and pepper, if necessary.
V2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic
4 . Add the dressing to the warm lentils and shallots.
Salt, as needed Mix well. Garnish with the parsley.
Ground black pepper, as needed 5 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.

1 . Cut the peppers into Vi-in/6-mm slices and drain in Variation: Add 6 oz/170 g each minced green onions and
a sieve or colander for 2 hours. chopped walnuts to the finished salad.

2 . Combine the peppers with the oil, raisins, pine nuts,

parsley, garlic, salt, and pepper.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.

B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
 salad dressing and salad recipes
Mixed Bean Salad Warm Black-Eyed Pea
Makes 10 servings
Salad
10 o z/2 8 4 g drained cooked black beans Makes 10 servings
10 o z/2 8 4 g drained cooked pinto
beans or small red kidney beans 2 rosemary sprigs

10 o z/2 8 4 g drained cooked chickpeas 2 thyme sprigs

5 o z/1 4 2 g drained cooked red lentils 2 bay leaves

6 o z/1 7 0 g small-dice red onion 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL olive oil

4 o z/1 1 3 g minced celery 4 o z /1 13 g minced onions

2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic

10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Vinaigrette Gourmande (page 901) Grated zest of 1 lemon

Salt, as needed 12 o z/3 4 0 g dried black-eyed peas, sorted and rinsed

Ground black pepper, as needed I V 2 q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed

3 fl o z/9 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed

1 . Combine the black beans, pinto beans, chickpeas, 3 tb sp /9 g basil chiffonade
lentils, onions, celery, and parsley. Gently toss with
Salt, as needed
the vinaigrette.
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 . Marinate in the refrigerator for 24 hours.
3 . Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately or
1 . Tie the rosemary, thyme, and bay leaves into a bun­
refrigerate for later service.
dle with butcher’s twine.
2 . Heat 2 tbsp/30 mL of the oil in a large saucepan over
high heat. Add the onions, half of the garlic, and the
lemon zest and saute until the onions are tender.
3 . Add the peas, stock, and bundled herbs. Bring to a
boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the peas are
tender, about 1 hour. Add more stock, if necessary, to
keep the peas covered throughout the cooking time.
4 . While the peas are cooking, combine the remaining
oil and garlic, the lemon juice, and basil.
5 . Drain the peas and remove and discard the herb
bundle. Add the hot peas to the oil mixture and toss
gently until evenly coated. Season with salt and
pepper.
6 . Serve immediately.

Chapter 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S 929
 Curried Rice Salad Seafood Ravigote
Makes 10 servings Makes 10 portions

2 lb /9 0 7 g cooked long-grain rice V2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot

8 o z/2 2 7 g cooked green peas 20 shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count), peeled and deveined

4 o z/1 1 3 g diced onion 10 frog's leg pairs, cut in half

4 o z/1 1 3 g diced Granny Smith 10 o z/2 8 4 g bay scallops, outer muscle removed
apples, peeled if desired
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL white wine
2 o z/5 7 g toasted pumpkin seeds
14 fI o z/4 2 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264)
2 o z/5 7 g plumped golden raisins
4 egg yolks
6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL Curry Vinaigrette
1 tb sp /1 5 mL prepared mustard
(page 898), or as needed
1 tb sp /1 5 mL lemon juice
Salt, as needed
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL vegetable oil
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 ts p /2 g Fines Herbes (page 369)
Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased),
as needed (optional) Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

1 . Combine the rice, peas, onions, apples, pumpkin
20 cooked mussels
seeds, and raisins.
4 o z/1 1 3 g cucumber, cut into julienne
2 . Toss lightly with the vinaigrette, adding just enough
to moisten the rice. Season with salt, pepper, and 20 leaves Boston lettuce

curry powder, if desired. 20 tomato wedges

3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service. 10 lemon wedges

1 . Combine the shallots, shrimp, frog’s legs, scallops,

wine, and stock and bring to a simmer. Poach the
seafood until cooked through.
2 . Remove the seafood, cover, and refrigerate.
3 . Strain the poaching liquid. Reduce the poaching liq­
uid to 3 tbsp/45 mL and transfer to a stainless-steel
bowl and allow to cool.
4 . Add the egg yolks, mustard, and lemon juice and
mix well. Whisk in the oil, starting very slowly in the
beginning and increasing the speed as the oil is ab­
sorbed and a thick vinaigrette forms. Add the herbs
and season with salt and pepper.
5 . Remove the meat from the frog’s legs and shell the
mussels. Combine all the seafood with the sauce.
6 . Mix the cucumber into the seafood mixture.
7 . Serve the seafood ravigote on the lettuce leaves, gar­
nished with tomato, lemon, and cucumber.

930 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
sandwiches
Sandwiches find their place on nearly every menu, from elegant receptions
and teas to substantial but casual meals. Built from four simple elements—
bread, a spread, a filling, and a garnish—they exemplify the ways in which
a global approach to cuisine can result in nearly endless variety.

CHAPTER 28
 elements in a sandwich
A sandwich can be open or closed, hot or cold. It can SPREADS
be small enough to serve as an hors d’oeuvre or large
Many sandwiches call for a spread applied directly to
enough to serve as an entree.
the bread. A fat-based spread (mayonnaise or butter, for
Cold sandwiches include standard deli-style ver­
instance) provides a barrier to keep the bread from get­
sions made from sliced meats or mayonnaise-dressed
ting soggy. Spreads also add moisture to a sandwich and
salads. Club sandwiches, also known as triple-decker
help hold it together as it is picked up and eaten. Some
sandwiches, are included in this category as well.
sandwich fillings include the spread in the filling mixture
Hot sandwiches may feature a freshly cooked or
(for example, a mayonnaise-dressed tuna salad); there
heated filling, such as a hamburger or pastrami. Others
is no need then to add a spread when assemblingthe
are grilled, like a Reuben sandwich or a melt. Sometimes
sandwich.
a hot filling is mounded on bread and the sandwich is
Spreads can be very simple and subtly flavored, or
topped with a hot sauce.
they may themselves bring a special flavor and texture
to the sandwich. The following list of spreads includes
BREADS
some classic choices as well as some that may not im­
Bread fo r sandwiches runs a fairly wide gamut. Sliced mediately spring to mind as sandwich spreads.
white and wheat Pullman loaves are used to make many
» Mayonnaise (plain or flavored, such as aToli and
cold sandwiches. The tight crumb of a good Pullman
rouille) or creamy salad dressings
makes it a particularly appropriate choice fo r delicate
tea and finger sandwiches, since they can be thinly » Plain or compound butters
sliced without crumbling. Tea and finger sandwiches
» M ustard or ketchup
must be made on fine-grained bread in order to be
trimmed of their crusts and precisely cut into shapes » Spreadable cheeses (ricotta, cream cheese, mas-
and sizes that can be eaten in about two average bites. carpone, or creme fratche)
Whole-grain and peasant-style breads are not always as
» Vegetable or herb spreads (hummus, tapenade, or
easy to slice thin.
pesto)
Various other breads, buns, rolls, and wrappers are
used to make special sandwiches. The characteristics of » Tahini and nut butters
the bread and how it will f it with the sandwich should be
» Jellies, jams, compotes, chutneys, and other fru it
considered. The bread should be firm enough and thick
preserves
enough to hold the filling, but not so thick that the sand­
wich is too dry to enjoy. » Avocado pulp or guacamole
Most breads can be sliced in advance of sandwich
» Oils and vinaigrettes
preparation as long as they are carefully covered to pre­
vent drying. Toasting should be done immediately before
F IL LI N GS
assemblingthe sandwich. Some breads to choose from
include: Sandwich fillings are the focus of a sandwich. They may
be cold or hot, substantial or minimal. It is as important
» Pullman loaves (white, wheat, or rye)
to properly roast and slice turkey fo r club sandwiches as
» Peasant-style breads (pumpernickel, sourdough, it is to be certain that the watercress fo r tea sandwiches
pain de campagne, and boule) is perfectly fresh and completely rinsed and dried. The
filling should determine how all the other elements of
» Rolls (hard, soft, and Kaiser)
the sandwich are selected and prepared. Choices for
» Flatbreads (focaccia, pita, ciabatta, and lavash) fillings include the following:

» Wrappers (rice paper and egg roll) » Sliced roasted or simmered meats (roast beef,
corned beef, pastrami, turkey, ham, pate, or
» Flour and corn to rtillas
sausage)

932 B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R

» Sliced cheeses
» Grilled, roasted, or fresh vegetables
» Grilled, pan-fried, or broiled burgers, sausages, fish,
or poultry
» Salads of meats, poultry, eggs, fish, or vegetables
GARNISHES
Lettuce leaves, slices o f tomato or onion, sprouts, mari­
nated or brined peppers, and olives are just a few of
the many ingredients that can be used to garnish sand­
wiches. These garnishes become part of the sandwich's
overall structure, so choose them with some thought to
presentation styles
A sandwich constructed with a top and a bottom slice
of bread is known as a closed sandwich. A club sandwich
has a third slice of bread. Still other sandwiches have
only one slice of bread, which acts as a base; these are
open-faced sandwiches.
Create straight-edged sandwiches by cutting them
into squares, rectangles, diamonds, or triangles. The
yield may be lower when preparing shapes, making them
sandwich production guidelines
Organize the work station carefully, whether prepar­
ing mise en place or assembling sandwiches fo r ser­
vice. Everything needed should be within arm's reach.
Maximize the work flow by looking fo r ways to eliminate
any unnecessary movements:
» Organize the work so th a t it moves in a direct line.
» Prepare spreads prior to service and have them at
a spreadable consistency. Use a spatula to spread
the entire surface of the bread.
elements in a sandwich
the way they complement or contrast the main filling.
When sandwiches are plated, side garnishes may also be
included. For example:
» Green salad or side salad (potato, pasta, or
coleslaw)
» Lettuce and sprouts
» Sliced fresh vegetables
» Pickle spears or olives
» Dips, spreads, or relishes
» Sliced fru its
slightly more expensive to produce. Take the time to cut
shapes uniformly so that they look their best when set in
straight rows on platters or arranged on plates.
Cut sandwiches as close to service as possible. If
sandwiches must be prepared ahead of time, hold them
wrapped in plastic or in airtight containers for only a few
hours.
» Slice breads and rolls prior to service fo r volume
production. Whenever possible, toast, grill, or broil
breads when ready to assemble the sandwich. If
bread must be toasted in advance, hold the to ast in
a warm area, loosely covered.
» Prepare and portion fillings and garnishes in ad­
vance and hold them at the correct tem perature.
Clean and dry lettuce or other greens in advance.
» Grilled sandwiches, such as a Reuben or croque
monsieur, can be fully assembled in advance of ser­
vice and grilled or heated to order.
ch a p te r 28 » S A N D W I C H E S 933
 ClAClub Phi I ly Hoagie
Makes 10 servings Makes 10 servings

6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903), or as needed 7 fl o z/2 1 0 mL olive oil

30 slices white Pullman bread, 3 fl o z/9 0 mL red wine vinegar

V a in /6 mm thick, toasted
1 tb sp /3 g chopped oregano
20 red leaf lettuce leaves
Salt, as needed
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced turkey
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced ham
Ten 10-in /25-cm hoagie rolls
20 tomato slices
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g thinly sliced prosciutto
20 bacon slices, cooked and cut in half
10 o z/2 8 4 g thinly sliced sweet cappicola

10 o z/2 8 4 g thinly sliced genoa salami

1 . For each sandwich, spread l tsp/5 mL of mayonnaise
on 1 slice of toast. Layer a lettuce leaf and 2 oz/57 g 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced provolone

each of turkey and ham on the toast. 5 o z/1 4 2 g shredded iceberg lettuce

2 . Spread Vi tsp/2.50 mL of mayonnaise on both sides 30 tomato slices, Vs in /3 mm thick

of another slice of toast and place on top of the ham. 30 onion slices, Vi6 in /1.50 mm thick
Top with another lettuce leaf, 2 tomato slices, and 2
bacon slices (4 halves).
1 . Mix together the oil, vinegar, and oregano to make a
3 . Spread 1 tsp/5 mL of mayonnaise on 1 more slice of dressing. Season with salt and pepper.
toast and place it on the sandwich, mayonnaise side
2 . For each sandwich, slice open a roll, leaving it
down.
hinged, and brush the inside with the dressing.
4 . Secure the sandwich with sandwich picks. Cut the
3 . Arrange 1 oz/28 g each prosciutto, cappicola, and
sandwich into quarters, and serve immediately.
salami on the roll. Top with 2 oz/57 g provolone and
V2 oz/14 g ° f lettuce. Place 3 slices each tomato and
onion on top of the lettuce. Drizzle the sandwich
with additional dressing. Close the sandwich.
4 . Serve immediately.

934 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
CIA Club
Chicken Burger
Makes 10 servings
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg ground chicken
6 o z/1 7 0 g bread crumbs
1 lb /4 5 4 g Duxelles Stuffing (page 482), cooled
2 tb sp /6 g chopped herbs, such as
chives, oregano, basil, or parsley
1 ts p /3 g salt
V 2 tsp /1 g ground white pepper
10 o z/2 8 4 g thinly sliced provolone
10 Kaiser rolls
4 o z /1 13 g butter or as needed, melted
10 green or red leaf lettuce leaves
20 tomato slices
1 . Gently mix the chicken, bread crumbs, duxelles,
herbs, salt, and pepper. Form into ten 6 -o z h jo -g
patties.
2 . Lightly butter a large saute pan or griddle. Brown the
patties on both sides. Finish in a 35o°F/i77°C oven to
an internal temperature of i65°F/74°C.
3 . Prior to service, top each burger with provolone and
return to the oven to melt.
4 . For each sandwich, slice open a roll, leaving it
hinged. Brush the cut surfaces with melted butter
and grill until golden. Place a burger on the roll and
serve open-faced with l lettuce leaf and 2 tomato
slices.
BREAKFAST AND GARDE MANGER
Barbecued Beef
Sandwich
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg beef brisket
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Barbecue Sauce (page 475)
10 hoagie or Kaiser rolls
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter or as needed, melted
1 . Season the brisket with the salt and pepper. Place on
a rack in a roasting pan and roast in a 325°F/i63°C
oven for 2 hours. Cover with aluminum foil and con­
tinue cooking until fork-tender, about 3 hours more.
Baste the brisket with some of the barbecue sauce
during the final 2 hours of roasting.
2 . Cool the brisket and trim off any excess fat. Slice or
shred the meat. Mix with the remaining sauce and
reheat in a 350°F/i77°C oven or over medium heat to
an internal temperature of i6o°F/7i°C. Adjust sea­
soning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
3 . For each sandwich, slice open a roll, leaving it
hinged. Brush the cut surfaces with melted butter
and grill until golden. Place the barbecued beef on
the grilled roll and serve open-faced.
 sandwich recipes
Open-Faced Turkey Croque Monsieur
Makes 10 servings
Sandwich with Sweet
10 o z /2 8 4 g Gruyere (20 slices)
and Sour Onions 15 o z/4 2 5 g thinly sliced ham
Makes 10 servings
20 slices white Pullman bread, '/t in /6 mm thick

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g onion, cut into julienne 2 tb s p /3 0 mL Dijon mustard

4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL clarified butter 4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, soft

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL soy sauce

1 . For each sandwich, place 1 slice Gruyere and
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL duck sauce
1V2 oz/43 g ham on 1 slice of bread. Spread lightly
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL water
with mustard. Place another slice of Gruyere on top
’/ 2 tsp /1 g garlic powder, or as needed and close with a second slice of bread. Butter both
'/2 tsp /1 g ground ginger, or as needed sides of the assembled sandwich.

Salt, as needed 2 . Lightly butter a flattop or pan. Cook the sandwich

Ground black pepper, as needed
10 slices white Pullman bread,
V* in /6 mm thick, toasted
until golden brown on both sides. If necessary, place
in the oven and continue cooking until the cheese
has melted. Serve immediately.

2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg thinly sliced roast turkey

20 tomato slices

1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g thinly sliced Swiss cheese

1 . Saute the onions in the butter until translucent. Add

the soy sauce, duck sauce, and water. Simmer until
the onions are fully cooked and dry. Season with gar­
lic powder, ginger, salt, and pepper.
2 . For each sandwich, spread some of the onion mix­
ture on a slice of toast. Cover with about 4V2 oz/128
g turkey. Spread additional onion mixture over the
turkey. Place 2 tomato slices on top and cover the
tomato with 2 oz/57 g cheese.
3 . Bake in a 35o°F/i77°C oven until the sandwich is
heated through and the cheese is melted. Serve im­
mediately.

c h a p te r 28 » S A N D W IC H E S 937
 sandwich recipes
Eggplant and Marinated Eggplant Filling
Makes 1 lb/454 S
Prosciutto Panini
Makes 10 servings 1 lb /4 5 4 g Italian eggplant

1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
8 3A o z /2 48 g ricotta
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
2 ts p /2 g basil chiffonade
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1 ts p /2 g coarsely ground black pepper
3 tb s p /4 5 mL red wine vinegar
1 tsp /1 g chopped oregano
2 tb s p /1 2 g dried oregano
1 tsp /1 g chopped parsley
1 tb sp /6 g dried basil
Salt, as needed
1 tb sp /6 g coarse ground black pepper
10 Italian hard rolls
Pinch red pepper flakes
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL oil from the marinated eggplant

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Marinated Eggplant 1 . Slice the eggplant into slices Vs in/3 mm thick. Layer
Filling (recipe follows)
the slices in a colander, salting each layer liberally.
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced prosciutto Allow the eggplant to drain for 1 hour.
2 . Rinse off the bitter liquid and blot the slices dry with
1 . In a bowl, combine the ricotta, basil, pepper, orega­ paper towels.
no, parsley, and salt and mix well. Cover and refrig­
3 . Mix together the oil, garlic, vinegar, oregano, basil,
erate overnight.
black pepper, and red pepper.
2 . For each sandwich, split a roll lengthwise and brush
4 . Toss the eggplant slices in the marinade; cover and
the inside with oil from the marinated eggplant.
refrigerate for 3 to 4 days. Stir the mixture every day.
Spread i oz/28 g herbed ricotta on one half of the
roll and top with 2 oz/57 g each eggplant and pro­ NOTE: The eggplant is ready when the flesh has become
sciutto. Top with the other half of the roll and serve relatively translucent and no longer tastes raw.
immediately.
3 . Grill in a panini press until golden. Serve immedi­
ately.

ch a p te r 28 » S A N D W IC H E S 939
 Grilled Vegetable 5 . Shake excess marinade off the vegetables before
grilling to avoid flare-ups. Grill the vegetables on
Sandwich with both sides over high heat until they yield slightly to
the touch, but are not mushy.
Manchego Cheese 6 . Transfer the vegetables, including the peppers to a
Makes 10 servings sheet pan in a 350°F/i77°C oven for 10 minutes to
finish cooking them until soft.
1 lb 8 o z/6 80 g chayotes
7 . Slice the portobellos on the bias into %-in/6-mm
Salt, as needed slices. Hold all the vegetables at room temperature.
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g eggplant, cut into ’/ t-in /6 -m m slices 8 . Gently separate and wash the lettuce leaves. Drain
16 f lo z /4 3 9 g olive oil on paper towels and reserve.

1 V 2 tb sp /21 g Dijon mustard 9 . For each sandwich, slice open a roll. Spread a thin
3/ t o z/21 g minced garlic
layer of tapenade on the cut surfaces of the roll.
Layer with mushroom, onion, poblano, red pepper,
2/b o z/1 9 g seeded, minced serrano chiles
eggplant, and chayote. Top with 2 tomato slices
'/ 2 o z/1 4 g chopped thyme and 3 slices of Manchego. Top with the other half
2 tbsp/6 g chopped oregano of the roll.

Ground black pepper, as needed L 0 . Warm the sandwiches for 10 to 15 minutes in a

25o°F/i2i°C oven before serving.
2 lb /9 0 7 g red onions, sliced

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g red bell peppers, roasted,

peeled, seeded, and sliced in half

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g poblanos, roasted,

peeled, seeded, and sliced in half Three-Cheese Melt
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g portobello mushrooms, stems removed Makes 10 servings

I head romaine lettuce

20 slices white Pullman bread, 'A in /6 mm thick
10 hoagie rolls
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced Cheddar
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Tapenade (page 959)
5 o z/1 4 2 g crumbled blue cheese
I I o z/3 1 2 g beefsteak tomatoes, sliced
10 o z/2 8 4 g thinly sliced Pepper Jack
V b in /3 mm thick (20 slices)
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, or as needed, soft
10 o z/2 8 4 g thinly sliced Manchego (30 slices)

1 . Simmer the chayotes in salted water until tender, 1 . For each sandwich, top 1 slice of bread with 1 oz/28
about 45 minutes. Cool. Cut into %-in/6-mm slices g Cheddar, V2 oz/14 g crumbled blue cheese, 1 oz/28

(discard the pits) and reserve. g pepper Jack, and another 1 oz/28 g Cheddar. Top
with a second bread slice. Butter both sides of the
2 . Lightly salt the eggplant slices and drain in a colan­
assembled sandwich.
der for 30 minutes. Blot dry on paper towels.
2 . Lightly butter a flattop or saute pan. Cook the sand­
3 . Combine the olive oil, mustard, garlic, serranos,
wich until golden brown on both sides. If necessary,
thyme, oregano, salt, and pepper to make the mari­
place in the oven and continue cooking until the
nade.
cheese has melted. Serve immediately.
4 . Place the chayote, eggplant, onions, peppers, po­
blanos, and portobellos in separate half hotel pans.
Pour marinade over each and turn to coat with the
marinade.

940 BREAKFAST AND GARDE MANGER

 Reuben Sandwich Tempeh Reuben
Makes 10 servings Makes 10 servings

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g tempeh
RUSSIAN DRESSING
3 f I o z/9 0 mL soy sauce
10 fl o z/3 00 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL red wine vinegar
3 f I o z/9 0 mL chili sauce
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Vegetable Stock (page 265)
V * oz/21 g prepared horseradish
2 3/ t o z/7 8 g minced onion
1 o z/2 8 g minced onion, blanched

3/ t ts p /3.75 mL Worcestershire sauce 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic

V 2 ts p /1 g ground black pepper

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed 1 ts p /2 g paprika

20 slices rye bread, toasted

20 slices Emmentaler 5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL Thousand Island Dressing (page 906)
2 lb /9 0 7 g thinly sliced corned beef 12 o z/3 4 0 g Sauerkraut (page 593
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Sauerkraut (page 593 or purchased) or purchased), drained

20 slices rye bread, 'A in /6 mm thick

1 . With a sharp knife, gently slice the tempeh into 40
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, soft
thin slices.
2 . Combine the soy sauce, vinegar, stock, onions, gar­
1 . To prepare the Russian dressing, mix together the
lic, pepper, and paprika in a shallow baking dish.
mayonnaise, chili sauce, horseradish, onions, and
Add the tempeh slices, cover and refrigerate to mari­
Worcestershire sauce. Season with salt and pepper.
nate for at least 2 hours and up to overnight, turning
2 . For each sandwich, layer l slice cheese, l tbsp/15 occasionally.
mL Russian dressing, 1V2 oz/43 g corned beef, and 2
3 . Bake the tempeh slices with their marinade in a
oz/57 g sauerkraut on 1 slice of bread. Top with an­
350°F/i77°C oven until lightly browned, 15 to 20
other 1V2 oz/43 g corned beef, 1 tbsp/15 mL Russian
minutes.
dressing, and a second slice of cheese. Top with a
bread slice. 4 . Layer 4 slices of the tempeh on 1 slice of bread with 1
tbsp/15 ml thousand island dressing and 2 fl ozl
3 . Butter both sides of the assembled sandwich. Lightly
36 g sauerkraut. Top with a second slice of bread and
butter a flattop or pan. Cook the sandwich until
serve warm.
golden brown on both sides. If necessary, place in
the oven and continue cooking until the cheese has
melted. Serve immediately.

942 BREAKFAST AND GARDE MANGER

 sandwich recipes
Cucumber Sandwich 1 . To make the herb mayonnaise, combine the mayon­
naise and the minced herbs. Season with salt and
with Herbed Cream pepper.

2 . For each sandwich, spread 1V2 tsp/7.50 mL herb may­

Cheese onnaise on each of 2 slices of bread. Lay some wa­
M akes 10 servings tercress on 1 slice of bread and top with the second
slice.
6 o z/1 7 0 g cream cheese, soft
3 . Trim the crust off each sandwich and cut into four
1 tb sp /3 g chopped dill
triangles or another desired shape.
1 tb sp /3 g minced chives 4 . Serve immediately or hold covered and refrigerated
2 fl o z/6 0 mL heavy cream, or as needed for no more than 2 hours.
Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

20 slices white Pullman bread, V* in /6 mm thick

12 o z/3 4 0 g thinly sliced English cucumber

Apple Sandwich with
>nnaise
1 . Blend the cream cheese, dill, chives, and enough M akes 10 servings
cream to get a smooth, spreading consistency. Sea­
son with salt and pepper. 1 tb sp /9 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)

2 . For each sandwich, spread 1V2 tsp/7.50 mL herbed
cream cheese on 2 slices of bread. Layer some cu­
cumber slices on 1 slice of bread and top with a sec­
ond slice of bread.
3 . Trim the crust off each sandwich and cut into four
rectangles or another desired shape.
4 . Serve immediately or hold covered and refrigerated
for no more than 2 hours.
Watercress Sandwich
5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
20 slices white Pullman bread, V* in /6 mm thick
1 lb /4 5 4 g Granny Smith apples,
peeled and thinly sliced
1 . Toast the curry powder in small dry saute pan over
medium heat. Allow the curry powder to cool and
blend it into the mayonnaise. Season with salt and
pepper.
2 . For each sandwich, spread 1V2 tsp/7.50 mL curry

with Herb Mayonnaise mayonnaise on each of 2 slices of bread. Place 1V4

oz/35 g apple slices on 1 slice of the bread and top
M akes 10 servings with the second slice of bread.
3 . Using a iVi-in/4-cm round cutter, cut each sandwich
HERB MAYONNAISE
into four circles, or cut into another desired shape.
5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
4 . Serve immediately or hold covered and refrigerated
V2 o z/1 4 g minced herbs such as chives, parsley, or dill for no more than 2 hours.
Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

20 slices white Pullman bread, V* in /6 mm thick

3 o z/8 5 g cleaned and trimmed watercress

c h a p te r 28 » S A N D W IC H E S 943
 Gorgonzola and Pear Tomato Sandwich with
Sandwich Oregano Sour Cream
Makes 10 servings Makes 10 servings

2 o z/5 7 g cream cheese, soft 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL sour cream

5 o z/1 4 2 g Gorgonzola, soft 2 tb sp /6 g chopped oregano

2 f I o z/6 0 mL heavy cream, or as needed Salt, as needed

Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed 20 slices white Pullman bread, in /6 mm thick

2 fl o z/6 0 mL honey 2 lb /9 0 7 g tomatoes, cored and thinly sliced

2 tb sp /3 0 mL white wine vinegar

1 lb /4 5 4 g pears
1 . Combine the sour cream and oregano. Season with
salt and pepper.
20 slices raisin pumpernickel bread, 'A in /6 mm thick
2 . For each sandwich, spread about 1V2 tsp/7.50 mL of
the sour cream mixture on each of 2 slices of bread.
1 . Blend the cream cheese and Gorgonzola with
Place about 3 oz/85 g tomato slices on 1 slice of the
enough cream to get a smooth spreading consistency.
bread and top with the second slice of bread.
Season with salt and pepper.
3 . Cut into the desired shape. Serve immediately or
2 . Combine the honey and vinegar. Peel and thinly hold covered and refrigerated for no more than 2
slice the pears and brush them with the honey-vine-
hours.
gar solution to prevent oxidation.
3 . For each sandwich, spread the Gorgonzola mixture
on 2 slices of bread. Place about l lA oz/35 g of the
pears on 1 slice of bread and top with the second
slice of bread.
4 . Cut into the desired shape. Serve immediately or
hold covered and refrigerated for no more than 2
hours.

944 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
hors d’oeuvre
and appetizers
The distinction between an hors d'oeuvre and an appetizer has more
to do with the portion size and how and when it is served than with the
actual food being served. Hors d’oeuvre are typically served as a prelude
to a meal, while appetizers are usually the meal's firs t course.

CHAPTER 29
 hors d’oeuvre
The term hors d'oeuvre is from the French fo r "outside foods are presented. These guidelines can assist the
the meal.’' Hors d'oeuvre are meant to pique the taste chef in hors d'oeuvre presentation:
buds and perk up the appetite. Foods served as hors
» Keep in mind the nature of the event as well as the
d’oeuvre should be:
menu th a t follows when selecting hors d’oeuvre.
» Small enough to eat in one or two bites. Some hors
» Ice carvings and ice beds are o ften used to keep
d'oeuvre are eaten with the fingers, while others
seafood and caviar very cold, as well as fo r their
may require a plate and a fork. W ith very few ex­
dram atic appeal. Be sure th at the ice can drain
ceptions, hors d’oeuvre do not require the use of a
properly and th a t heavy or large ice carvings are
knife.
stable.
» A ttractive. Because hors d’oeuvre customarily
» Hors d'oeuvre served on platters or passed on trays
precede the meal, they are considered a means of
should be thoughtfully presented, so th a t the last
teasing the ap p etite. This is partially accomplished
hors d'oeuvre on the plate is still attractively pre­
through visual appeal.
sented.
» Designed to complem ent the meal th a t is to follow.
» Hors d’oeuvre th a t are served with a sauce require
It is im portant to avoid serving too many foods of
serving utensils. In order to prevent the guest from
a similar tas te or texture. For example, if the menu
having to juggle a plate, fork, and napkin while
features a lobster bisque, lobster canapes may be
standing, these hors d’oeuvre should ordinarily be
inappropriate.
lim ited to either b u ffe t service or served as the
prelude to a multicourse meal.
PRESENTING HORS D' OEUVRE
» To ensure th a t hot hors d'oeuvre stay hot, avoid
The presentation of hors d’oeuvre can extend from the
combining hot and cold items on a single platter.
elegance of butler-style service to the relative infor­
If possible, place few er hot hors d’oeuvre on each
mality of a buffet, or it may be a combination of service
p la tte r being passed and replenish them more
styles. The type of hors d'oeuvre as well as the require­
frequently.
ments of a particular function determine how these

appetizers
While hors d’oeuvre are served separately from the main
meal, appetizers are traditionally its firs t course. The
role of the appetizer on the contemporary menu is be­
coming increasingly important. Although the traditional
pate, smoked trout, or escargot with garlic butter may
still be found, dishes based on pasta, grilled vegetables,
and grains are receiving more exposure.
The usual admonition to "build” a menu from one
course to the next calls fo r some logical connection
between the appetizer and all the courses to follow. For
every rule you read about what types of foods should or
shouldn't constitute an appetizer, you will find at least
one good exception.
What most appetizers have in common is careful a t­
tention to portioning and sound technical execution and
plating. M ost appetizers are small servings of very flavor­
ful foods, meant to take just enough edge o ff the appetite
to permit thorough enjoyment of an entree.
Classic hors d'oeuvre can be served as appetizers
by increasing the portion size slightly. Perennial favor­
ites are perfectly fresh clams and oysters, fo r example,
shucked as close to service tim e as possible and served
with sauces designed to enhance their naturally briny
flavor, or a classic shrimp cocktail, served with a cocktail
sauce, salsa, or other pungent sauce. Smoked fish, meat,
or poultry; sausages, pates, terrines, and galantines; air-
dried ham and beef sliced paper thin— all of these can
be used to create appetizer plates, on their own with a
few accompaniments or garnishes, or as a sampler plate.

946 B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R

Salads are also served as appetizers. Portion size
may be changed or a different sauce or garnish sub­
stituted to vary the salad from season to season or to
showcase a range o f flavors and textures from other cui­
sines. Small portions of meat or seafood items may be
combined with salads to create interesting appetizers.
Warm and hot appetizers include small servings of
pasta, such as tortellini or ravioli, served on their own or
in a sauce or broth. Puff pastry shells can be cut into vol-
au-vents or made into turnovers and filled with savory
ragouts or foie gras. Broiled or grilled fish, shellfish,
or poultry are often featured. Crepes, blini, and other
similar dishes are popular. Meatballs and other highly
seasoned ground-meat appetizers are also frequent
choices.
Vegetables are more important than ever as an
appetizer. They are often presented very simply—for
example, steamed artichokes with a dipping sauce,
chilled asparagus drizzled with a flavored oil, or a plate
of grilled vegetables accompanied by an a'ioli.
PREPARING AND PRESENTI NG AP PE TI ZE R S
In preparing and presenting appetizers, keep in mind the
following guidelines:
» Keep the portion size appropriate. Generally, appe­
tizers should be served in small servings.
» Season all appetizers with meticulous care. Appe­
tizers are meant to stim ulate the appetite, so sea­
soning is of the utm ost importance. Don't overuse
fresh herbs and other seasonings, however. It is all
c h a p te r 29 » HORS D’O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S
hors d’oeuvre and appetizers
too easy to deaden the palate by overwhelming it
with too much garlic or an extravagance of basil at
the m eal’s start. Remember th at other courses will
follow this one.
» Keep garnishes to a minimum. Those garnishes th at
are used should serve to heighten the dish's appeal
by adding flavor and texture, not just color.
» Serve all appetizers a t the proper tem perature.
Remember to chill or warm plates.
» Slice, shape, and portion appetizers carefully, with
just enough on the plate to make the appetizer in­
terestin g and appealing from sta rt to finish but not
so much th a t the guest is overwhelmed.
» Neatness always counts, but especially with appe­
tizers. They can set the stage fo r the entire meal.
» When offerin g shared appetizers, consider how
they will look when they come to the table. It may be
more effe c tiv e to split a shared plate in the kitchen,
rather than leaving it to the guests to divide it
themselves.
» Color, shape, and w hite space play a role in the over­
all composition of the plate.
» Choose the right size and shape serving pieces and
provide the guest with everything necessary for
the appetizer, including special utensils, dishes to
hold em pty shells or bones, and, if necessary, finger
bowls.
947
 A C O L D S A V O R Y M O U S S E H A S M A N Y A P P L I C A T I O N S . S e r v e d U N M O L D E D , S L I C E D A S A L O A F OR T E R R I N E ,

O R P I P E D I N T O A S H E L L O R A S A T O P P I N G , I T C A N BE F E A T U R E D A S A N H O R S D ' O E U V R E , A N A P P E T I Z E R , OR

A C O M P O N E N T IN O T H E R D I S H E S . THE F R E N C H W O R D M O U S S E L I T E R A L L Y M E A N S " F O A M " OR “ F R O T H . ”

cold savory mousse

A mousse is prepared by gently folding whipped cream or whipped egg whites into an in­
tensely flavored base th at often contains gelatin. The light, frothy mixture is chilled enough
to set before it is served. A cold mousse is not cooked a fte r assembly, since heating would
deflate the foam. A hot mousse is a small portion of a forcem eat th a t has been molded in a
fashion similar to a cold mousse before it is cooked and served hot.
Although each base ingredient may call for an adjustment in the amount of binder
and aerator, the basic formula described on the next page is a good checkpoint. It can and
should be altered depending on the type of mousse being made and the intended use of the
final product. The mousse’s main (base) ingredient may be one or a combination of the fo l­
lowing: finely ground or pureed cooked or smoked meats, fish, or poultry; cheese or a blend
of cheeses (a spreadable cheese, such as fresh goat cheese or cream cheese, is typically
used); or a puree of vegetables (this may need to be reduced by sauteing to intensify flavor
and drive o ff excess moisture). All base ingredients should be properly seasoned before
you add other ingredients, and the seasoning rechecked once the mousse is prepared. Be
sure to tes t at service tem perature to make adjustments if necessary.
Some base ingredients are already stable enough to give finished mousses structure
(for example, cheeses). For base ingredients th at are not as dense, formulas typically in­
clude a quantity of gelatin (see Working with Gelatin, page 950). The amount of gelatin
should be enough so th at the mousse holds its shape. The more gelatin is added, the firm er
the finished mousse will be. Choose the quantity based on presentation (a firm er mousse
for slicing, a softer mousse fo r spooning or piping).
The lightener in a mousse can be a foam o f whipped egg whites, or heavy cream whipped
to soft or medium peaks. If the whites or cream are overbeaten, the mousse may start to
"deflate"from its own weight as it sits. Added seasonings, flavorings, and garnishes can run
a wide gamut and should be chosen to suit the main ingredient's flavor.
Equipment needs for preparing a mousse include a food processor to work the main
item into a puree or paste, and a whisk or electric mixer with a wire whip to prepare the egg
whites and/or cream. Have a drum sieve on hand to strain the base, if necessary. Prepare
an ice w ater bath to cool the mixture, as well as the proper setup for weighing and handling
gelatin. Prepare various molds and serving dishes, or a pastry bag, to shape the finished
mousse.

948 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
 cold savory mousse
9 basic formula

Cold Savory Mousse Liquid** 8 fI oz/240 mL

(2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg) (**to bloom gelatin)

Base 2 lb/907 g
Aerator 16 ft oz/480 mL

Binder* 1 oz/28 g gelatin

(*if required by recipe)

method
at-a-glance
1. Puree or grind the main expert tips
ingredient.

2. Fold in binder, if using.

Cool m ixture to correct
Make sure that the main ingredient is the correct con­
sistency. Depending on the desired result, additional liquid may be added to
tem perature.
achieve the correct consistency:
3. Gently fold in aerator.
V E LO U T E / B E C H A M EL / M A Y O N N A IS E
4. Imm ediately pipe or
spoon the mousse into the
desired containers.
Fold in the whipped cream or egg whites gently
and only until they are just combined to achieve the best volume and finished
texture.

c h a p te r 29 » HORS D 'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S 949

 WORKING WITH GELATIN

Gelatin is used to make aspic, to stabilize foams, and or gel strength, in a given liquid is best described in
to thicken liquid-based mixtures that will be served terms of ounces per pint. Formulas for producing a
cold. It is added to liquid in different concentrations variety of gel strengths can be found in the table on
to get different results. The concentration of gelatin, page 952.

1 . Rain or sprinkle the gelatin over a cool liquid. If clear and liquid enough to pour easily. Stir the
the liquid is warm or hot, powdered gelatin will not melted gelatin into a warm or room-temperature
soften properly. Scattering the gelatin over the sur­ base mixture.
face of the liquid prevents it from forming clumps. If the base is cold, the gelatin may set up un­
evenly. If the base is quite warm or hot (at least
2 . Rehydrate and bloom the gelatin before use.
io 5°F/41°C), however, you may opt to add the
To bloom, soak it the amount of liquid specified
bloomed gelatin directly to the base, rather than
in the recipe, which should be approximately 8 fl
melting it separately, and allow the base’s heat to
oz/240 mL of a water-based liquid for every 1 oz/28
melt it. Be sure to stir gelatin added this way until it
g gelatin. An alternative method commonly used
is completely blended into the base.
for blooming sheet gelatin is to soak it in enough
Since the product will begin to set immediately
cold water to completely submerge it. If this method
after the gelatin is added and the mixture falls below
is used, after blooming, gently squeeze and wring
iio °F/43°C, always prepare all molds, service con­
the sheet to force the excess water out, so as not to
tainers, and so on before beginning preparation.
add additional liquid to the formula, which would
Some gelatin-stabilized items are served in
change the consistency and flavor of the finished
their molds; others are unmolded before service. To
product.
unmold, dip the mold briefly into very hot water,
3 . After it is bloomed, melt the gelatin. To melt quickly dry the outside, invert the mold onto a plate,
bloomed gelatin, place it in a pan or bowl over low and tap it gently to release the item.
heat or over a hot water bath until it liquefies. As the
softened gelatin warms, the mixture will become

950 B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
 cold savory mousse
1. puree the main ingredients in
a food processor or grind them with a meat grinder. For
the best possible texture, sieve the pureed base. This
removes any last bits of sinew or fiber fo r a very delicate
end product. The base should have a consistency similar
to pastry cream. It may be necessary to add a liquid or
moist product such as veloute, bechamel, unwhipped
cream, or mayonnaise to adjust the consistency. Cool
the base over an ice bath, if the mixture is hotter than
90°F/32°C.
Usually, a binder is necessary to produce the correct
body. Some main ingredients, such as cheese or foie gras,
may be sufficiently binding without gelatin. Add gelatin,
if necessary. Hydrate the gelatin in a cool liquid. This
process is known as b l o o m i n g . Warm the gelatin to 90°
to 110°F/32° to 43°C to dissolve the granules. S tir the
melted gelatin into the base.

method in detail
2. fold in the whipped cream and/
or egg whites just until they are fully combined. Beat the
cream or egg whites to soft peaks fo r best results. Fold
this aerator into the base carefully. Add about one-third
of the whipped cream firs t to make it easier to fold in the
remaining two-thirds. This technique keeps the maximum
volume in the finished mousse. Stirring the whipped
cream in too vigorously or fo r too long will cause a loss in
volume and may cause the cream to become overwhipped.

c h a p te r 29 » HORS D 'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S 95i

 3. pipe the mousse into barquettes or
other containers, as desired. There are many different
ways to use a mousse. It may be piped into barquette
or ta rtle t shells, profiteroles, or endive spears, or used
as the spread fo r a canape. It may be spooned or piped
into portion-size molds; some presentations call fo r the
mousse to be unmolded before service while others call
for the mousse to be presented directly in the mold. A
mousse can also be layered into a terrine, unmolded, and
sliced for presentation.
Refrigerate the mousse until needed, at least two
hours if it is to be unmolded. A high-quality cold mousse
should be fully flavored, delicately set, and very light in
texture. The ingredients should be blended smoothly
so that there are no streaks of cream or base. The color
should be even and appealing.

Ratios for Gelatin Strength

I GEL STRENGTH OUNCES PER PINT USE |

DELICATE V 4 oz/7 g When slicing is not required

COATING V 2 oz/14 g Edible chaud-froid

SLICEABLE 1 oz/28 g When product is sliced (pate en croute; head cheese)

FIRM 1 V 2 oz/43 g Chemise or underlayment on plate or platter to

prevent reaction of food and metal

MOUSSE 2 oz/57 g Used in mousse

952 BREAKFAST AND GARDE MANGER


Smoked Salmon
Mousse
Makes 3 lb g 02/1.62 kg
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g diced smoked salmon
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Fish Veloute (page 294), cold
1 o z/2 8 g powdered gelatin
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 2 6 4) or water, cold
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
16 fl o z /4 8 0 mL heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
1 . Combine the salmon and veloute in a food processor
and process until smooth. Push through a sieve and
transfer to a medium bowl.
2 . Combine the gelatin with the cold stock, and bloom
until the gelatin absorbs the liquid.
3 . Warm the bloomed gelatin over simmering water
in a pot that matches the size of the bowl until the
granules dissolve and the mixture reaches 90° to
no°F/32° to 43°C.
4 . Blend the gelatin into the salmon mixture. Season
with salt and pepper.
5 . Fold in the whipped cream. Shape or portion the
mousse as desired. Refrigerate the mousse for at
least 2 hours to firm it.
hors d oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Blue Cheese Mousse
Makes 2 lb 8 oz/1 .1 3 kg
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g blue cheese, crumbled
12 o z/3 4 0 g cream cheese, soft
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
V 2 tsp /1 g coarsely ground black pepper
12 fl o z /3 6 0 mL heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
1 . Puree the cheeses in a food processor until very
smooth. Season with salt and pepper.
2.. Fold the whipped cream into the mousse until well
blended, without any lumps.
3 . Use the mousse to prepare canapes or as a filling or
dip.
Goat Cheese Mousse: S ubstitute fresh goat cheese fo r the
blue cheese.
Pico de Gallo
Makes 1 qt/960 mL
V 2 cu p /120 mL roughly chopped cilantro
15 medium plum tomatoes, small dice
4 serranos or jalapenos, seeded and minced
2 limes, juiced
1 medium onion, cut into small dice
Salt, as needed
Combine all the ingredients in medium bowl. Adjust
seasoning with salt. The salsa is ready to serve now,
or may be refrigerated for 1 to 2 hours. Serve at room
temperature.
ch a p te r 29 » HORS D'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S 953
 Salsa Verde Asada
M akes 32 fl 02/960 mL
1 lb 13 o z/8 2 2 g tomatillos
9'/2 o z/2 6 9 g white onion
3'/2 o z/9 9 g jalapeno
4 cloves garlic, unpeeled
1 ts p /3 g salt, plus more as needed
3 o z/8 5 g cilantro, roughly chopped
1 . Dry roast the tomatillos, onions, jalapenos, and gar­
lic on a comal or in a cast-iron skillet over medium
heat until the tomatillos and jalapenos have blistered
and are cooked through. Let cool and peel the toma­
tillos. Once the garlic skin begins to brown, remove
from the heat and peel and discard the skin. Let cool
to room temperature.
2 . Crush the garlic to a paste with the salt using a mor­
tar and pestle.
3 . Remove the stem and skin from the jalapenos and
slice in half. Add to the garlic in the mortar and
mash into a fine paste.
4 . Add the onions and continue mashing.
5 . Add the tomatillos, one at a time, swirling and grind­
ing until all the tomatillos are incorporated into the
salsa.
6 . Mix in the cilantro and adjust seasoning with salt.
The salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refriger­
ated for later use.
954 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
Salsa Verde Cruda
M akes 20 fl 02/600 m l
V A o z/3 5 g minced serrano chiles
141/2 o z /4 1 1 g tomatillos, roughly chopped
1 ts p /3 g minced garlic
4 3A o z/1 3 5 g white onion, roughly chopped
3/it s p /2 .5 0 g s a lt
2’/2 o z /7 1 g cilantro
1 . Place the serranos, tomatillos, garlic, and onions in a
blender. Process until almost smooth.
2 . Season with the salt and add the cilantro. Process
briefly until smooth, taking care not to heat up or
burn the cilantro with the heat from the blade. The
salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated for
later use.
Salsa Roja
M akes 32 fl 02/960 mL
12 plum tomatoes
4 garlic cloves
6 chipotle chiles, seeded and minced
I V 2 o z/4 3 g cilantro
Salt, as needed
1 . Dry roast the tomatoes on a comal over medium
heat until the tomatoes are blistered and cooked
through. Remove, cool to room temperature, and
peel.
2 . On the same comal, dry roast the garlic cloves until
the papery skin begins to brown, 12 to 15 minutes.
Peel and discard the skin.
3 . Transfer the roasted tomatoes and garlic, the chipo­
tle chiles, and cilantro to a blender and process until
smooth.
4 . Season with salt. Add water if the salsa is too thick.
The salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refriger­
ated for later use.
 hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Papaya-Black Bean Cumberland Sauce
M akes 32 fl oz/960 mL
Salsa
M akes 32 fl 02/960 mL 2 oranges

2 lemons
7 o z/1 9 8 g drained cooked black beans
V2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot
7 o z/1 9 8 g small-dice ripe papaya
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g currant jelly
2 o z/5 7 g small-dice red pepper
1 tb sp /6 g dry mustard
2 o z/5 7 g small-dice red onion
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL ruby port
'/> o z/1 4 g minced jalapenos
Salt, as needed
2 tb sp /6 g roughly chopped cilantro
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 o z/2 8 g minced ginger
Pinch cayenne
2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil
Pinch ground ginger
2 tb sp /3 0 mL lime juice

Salt, as needed
1 . Remove the zest from the oranges and lemons us­
Ground black pepper, as needed ing a zester or peeler and cut into julienne. Juice the
oranges and lemon and reserve.
Combine all the ingredients in a medium bowl. 2 . Blanch the zests for 30 seconds in a small sauce pot
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. The salsa is of boiling water. Drain immediately.
ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated for later 3 . Combine the citrus juices, shallots, zests, jelly, mus­
use. tard, port, salt, pepper, cayenne, and ginger in a non­
reactive saucepan. Bring to a simmer. Simmer until
syrupy, 5 to 10 minutes.
4 . Chill the sauce over an ice water bath. The sauce is
Grapefruit Salsa ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated for later
M akes 32 fl o z/g 6 o mL use.

2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil

2 tb sp /6 g roughly chopped cilantro

2 o z/5 7 g finely diced red onion, rinsed

1 ts p /3 g seeded, minced Scotch bonnet

2 ts p /2 g chopped parsley

4 ruby red grapefruits (about 1 lb

4 o z/5 6 7 g), segmented

2 oranges (about 6 o z/1 7 0 g), segmented

V i ts p /1 .50 g salt, or as needed

1 . Combine the oil, cilantro, onions, Scotch bonnet,

and parsley in a small bowl.
2 . Just before service, add the grapefruit and oranges.
Season with salt.
3 . The salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refriger­
ated for later use.

c h a p te r 29 » HORS D'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S 955

Asian Dipping Sauce
M akes 32 fl ciz/960 mL
1 o z/2 8 g minced ginger
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic
2 o z/5 7 g minced green onions,
green and white portions
2 ts p /1 0 mL vegetable oil
1 6 flo z /4 8 0 mL soy sauce
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL rice wine vinegar
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL water
2 ts p /4 g dry mustard
1 ts p /5 mL hot bean paste
2 fl o z/6 0 mL honey
1 . Sweat the garlic, ginger, and green onions in the oil
in a small sauce pot until aromatic. Cool.
2 . Combine the sweated ingredients with the soy sauce,
vinegar, water, mustard, bean paste, and honey in a
medium bowl and mix thoroughly.
3 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be cooled
and refrigerated for later use.
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
Cilantro-Lime
Sauce
Makes 20 portions
4 garlic cloves, minced
6 tb s p /9 0 mL minced ginger
3 tb sp /4 5 mL Vietnamese chili paste
1 cu p /240 mL chopped cilantro
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL soy sauce
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL lime juice with pulp
4 flo z /1 2 0 m L w a te r
V 2 cu p /50g su g ar
1 . Mash the garlic and ginger together into a fine paste
using a mortar and pestle. Transfer the mixture into
a bowl and add the remaining ingredients. Whisk
until the sugar is dissolved.
2 . Let the sauce rest for 10 minutes before tasting and
adjusting seasoning.
Vietnamese Dipping
Sauce
Makes 32 f l 02/960 mL
20 Thai chiles, red and/or green
4 garlic cloves, minced
4 o z/1 1 3 g sugar
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL warm water
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL lime juice
8 fI o z/2 4 0 mL fish sauce
V / 2 o z/4 3 g finely shredded carrots
1 . Slice 10 of the chiles into thin rings and set aside for
garnish. Mince the remaining chiles and transfer
them to a medium bowl.
2 . Add the garlic, sugar, water, lime juice, and fish
sauce. Whisk to dissolve the sugar. Add the reserved
chiles and carrots. Rest the sauce for 10 minutes.
3 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be refriger­
ated for later use.
 hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Spring Roll Dipping Yogurt Cucumber
Sauce Sauce
M akes 32 fl o z/g 6 o mL M akes 32 fl o z/g 6 o mL

1 o z/2 8 g finely shredded carrots 16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL plain yogurt

2 o z/5 7 g finely shredded daikon 1 lb /4 5 4 g cucumbers, peeled,

seeded, and cut into small dice
B'/2 o z/9 9 g sugar
1 tb s p /9 g minced garlic
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic
2 ts p /4 g ground cumin
]/2 o z/1 4 g minced red chiles
1 ts p /2 g ground turmeric
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL lime or lemon juice
Salt, as needed
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL rice wine vinegar
Ground black pepper, as needed
4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL Vietnamese fish sauce (nuoc m am )

8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL water
1 . Place the yogurt in a cheesecloth-lined strainer. Set
the strainer in a bowl and drain at least 8 hours in
1 . Mix the carrots and daikon with 1 oz/28 g of the the refrigerator.
sugar in a medium bowl and let stand for 15 minutes,
2 . Combine the yogurt and cucumbers. Add the garlic,
2.. Combine the garlic, chiles, and the remaining sugar cumin, turmeric, salt, and pepper.
in a food processor and puree until smooth. Add the
3 . The sauce can be served chunky or pureed until
lime juice, vinegar, fish sauce, and water and puree,
smooth. It is ready to serve now, or may be refriger­
making sure that the sugar is dissolved. Combine
ated for later use. Stir the sauce and adjust seasoning
with the carrot and daikon mixture.
if necessary before serving.
3 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be refriger­
ated for later use.

ch a p te r 29 » HORS D’O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S 957

Guacamole 4 . Adjust seasoning and consistency, if necessary. Gar­
nish with paprika and parsley. The hummus is ready
M akes 32 fl 0Z /9 6 0 mL
to serve now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
5 Hass avocados

2 plum tomatoes, cut into small dice

4 o z/1 1 3 g minced red onion

3 serranos, seeded and finely minced

Baba Ghanoush
M akes 32 fl oz/960 mL
2 tb sp /6 g roughly chopped cilantro

2 limes, juiced 4 lb/1.81 kg eggplants (about 4)

Salt, as needed 6 o z/1 7 0 g tahini

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 . Seed and peel the avocados and cut roughly into me­
dium dice. Combine the avocados with the tomatoes,
onions, serranos, cilantro, and lime juice and mix
well, smashing the avocados a little to form a rough
paste.
2 . Season with salt. The guacamole is ready to serve
now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
NOTE: It is best to make guacamole the same day it is to be
served.
Hummus bi Tahini
M akes 32 fl oz/960 mL
12 o z/3 40 g dried chickpeas, soaked overnight
5 fl o z/1 50 mL lemon juice
3 garlic cloves, crushed with salt
3 f I o z/9 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
4 '/2 o z /1 2 8 g tahini
Salt, as needed
6 ft o z/1 8 0 mL lemon juice
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
I V 2 o z/4 3 g chopped parsley (optional)
1 . Slice the eggplants in half lengthwise. Place cut
side down on a lightly oiled sheet pan. Roast in a
450°F/232°C oven until the skin is charred and the
interior is fully cooked, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Let the
eggplant stand until cool enough to handle.
2 . Scrape the eggplant pulp from the skin into a food
processor. Add the tahini, garlic, lemon juice, salt,
and pepper. Blend until the mixture is homoge­
neous. If it is too thick, add 2 tbsp/30 mL water and
continue blending.
3 . When the mixture is smooth, add the parsley, if
using, and pulse to incorporate. The consistency
should be lightly spreadable, but not too loose. Ad­
just seasoning with salt and pepper.
4 . The baba ghanoush is ready to serve now, or may be
refrigerated for later use.

Paprika, as needed

1 o z/2 8 g chopped parsley

1 . Boil the chickpeas in water in a medium pot until

tender, 1 to 2 hours. Drain the chickpeas, reserving
the cooking liquid.
2 . In a food processor, blend the chickpeas with about
4 fl oz/120 mL of cooking liquid until they become a
smooth paste.
3 . Add the lemon juice, garlic, oil, tahini, and salt. Pro­
cess until well incorporated.

B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
 hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Harissa Tapenade
Makes 24 fl oz/720 mL Makes 32 f l 0 Z/960 mL

2 or 3 dried habaneros 10 o z/2 8 4 g pitted green olives, rinsed

1 lb /4 5 4 g red chiles, seeded and stemmed 10 o z/2 8 4 g pitted black nigoise olives, rinsed

4 o z/1 1 3 g sun-dried tomatoes 6 o z/1 7 0 g capers, rinsed

3 garlic cloves, crushed with salt 4 garlic cloves, minced

1 tb sp /6 g ground turmeric 3 tb s p /4 5 mL lemon juice

V2 tsp /1 g ground coriander 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil

V2 tsp /1 g ground cumin Ground black pepper, as needed

V2 tsp /1 g caraway seeds, toasted and ground 2 tb sp /6 g chopped oregano

V2 ts p /2 .5 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed 2 tb sp /6 g basil chiffonade

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL olive oil, or as needed

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL water, or as needed 1 . Combine the olives, capers, and garlic in a food
processor. Blend, incorporating the lemon juice and
V2 ts p /1 .50 g salt, or as needed
011 slowly, until the mixture is chunky and easy to
spread. Do not overprocess.
1 . Toast the habaneros in a saute pan until the skin
2 . Season with pepper and add the oregano and basil.
darkens and a small amount of smoke rises, about 15
seconds on each side. 3 . The tapenade is ready to serve now, or may be refrig­
erated for later use.
2 . Rehydrate the habaneros by covering them with
warm water. When they are soft and hydrated, re­
move the stems and seeds.
3 . Place the habaneros, red chiles, tomatoes, garlic, tur­
meric, coriander, cumin, caraway seeds, lemon juice,
and olive oil in a blender and blend until smooth and
homogeneous.
4 . Adjust the consistency with water, lemon juice, and
oil. Season with salt.
5 . The harissa is ready to serve now, or may be refriger­
ated for later use.

c h a p te r 29 » HORS D'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S 959

 Z'hu: Wasabi
M akes 32 fl 0Z/960 mL M akes 8 fl oz/240 m l

3 lb 4 o z/1.47 kg jalapenos 5'/2 o z/1 5 6 g wasabi powder

IV 4 o z/5 0 g garlic, chopped Warm water, as needed

7 o z/1 9 8 g cilantro leaves

1 . Place the wasabi powder in a small bowl. Add
3’/> o z/9 9 g parsley leaves
enough of the water to achieve a smooth paste. Wrap
372 o z/9 9 g mint leaves
the bowl tightly with plastic wrap.
4 ts p /8 g cumin seeds, toasted and ground
2 . Allow the wasabi to sit for about 10 minutes, or until
4 ts p /1 0 g ground cardamom pods, the flavors develop.
peeled, seeded and toasted
3 . The wasabi is ready to serve now, or it may be refrig­
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
erated for later use.
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed
NOTES: Stand back when mixing the wasabi powder with the
Salt, as needed
water, as the fumes that rise w ill burn your eyes.
Ground black pepper, as needed
For a less pungent taste, sub stitute cold water fo r the
warm water.
1 . Roast the jalapenos under a salamander or over an
open flame. Set aside, covered. When cool enough to
handle, peel.
2 . Place the jalapenos, garlic, cilantro, parsley, mint,
cumin, and cardamom in a food processor and pulse
Roasted Red Pepper
until finely chopped.
Marmalade
3 . Slowly add the oil while continuing to puree. Season
M akes 32 fl o z/g 6 o mL
with lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
4 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be refriger­ 8 o z/2 2 7 g minced red onions
ated for later use. 1 fl o z/3 0 mL olive oil

4 roasted peppers, peeled and

seeded, cut into brunoise

2 o z/5 7 g finely chopped capers

Spicy Mustard V 2 o z/1 4 g minced chives
M akes 8 fl oz/240 mL
Salt, as needed

3 o z/8 5 g dry mustard Ground black pepper, as needed

Pinch salt

Pinch sugar
1 . Sweat the onions in the oil until translucent. Cool to
room temperature.
2 fl o z/6 0 mL cool water, or as needed
2 . Combine the onions, peppers, capers, and chives and
season with salt and pepper. Allow the mixture to
1 . Place the mustard in a small bowl with the salt and
marinate for a minimum of 30 minutes.
sugar.
3 . The marmalade is ready to serve now, or it may be
2 . Gradually stir in the water to obtain the desired con­
refrigerated for later use.
sistency. The mustard should be the consistency of a
smooth, thick, heavy cream.
3 . Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow the mus­
tard to sit for 15 minutes before serving.

960 B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
 hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Cranberry Relish 2 . Transfer the mixture to a medium saucepan, add the
M akes 32 fl oz/<)6o mL vinegar, bring to a boil, and simmer over low heat
for 15 minutes.
12 o z/3 4 0 g cranberries
3 . Season with salt and pepper. Simmer for an addi­
3 fl o z/9 0 mL orange juice tional 10 minutes, stir in the turmeric, and simmer 5
3 f I o z/9 0 mL triple sec minutes more, or until the chutney has thickened to
the correct consistency.
3 o z/8 5 g sugar, or as needed
4 . The chutney is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly
1 o z/2 8 g minced orange zest
cooled and refrigerated for later use.
10 o z/2 8 4 g orange supremes

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

Curried Onion Relish
1 . Combine the cranberries, orange juice, triple sec, M akes 32 fl oz/960 mL
sugar, and zest in a small saucepan and stir to
combine. 1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice onion

2 . Cover the saucepan and simmer over low heat, stir­ 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL distilled white vinegar

ring occasionally. When the berries burst and the 6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
liquid starts to thicken, 15 to 20 minutes, remove the
V 2 o z/1 4 g pickling spice, tied into a sachet
saucepan from the heat and add the supremes. Sea­
1 tb sp /9 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)
son with salt and pepper. Adjust the sweetness with
sugar. V* ts p /0 .7 5 g minced garlic

3 . The relish is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly Salt, as needed

cooled and refrigerated for later use.
1 . Combine all the ingredients in a medium nonreac­
tive saucepan and mix well.
2 . Simmer over low heat, covered but stirring often,
Spicy Mango Chutney for 30 minutes, until thickened to the appropriate
M akes 16 fl oz/480 mL consistency, about 30 minutes. Be careful not to let
it scorch. Remove the sachet.
1 lb /4 5 4 g peeled, diced mango 3 . The relish is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly
3 o z/8 5 g raisins cooled and refrigerated for later use.

2 ts p /6 g minced jalapeno

V i o z/1 4 g minced garlic

V i o z/1 4 g minced ginger

5 o z/1 4 2 g dark brown sugar

2 tb s p /3 0 mL white wine vinegar

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

1 ts p /2 g ground turmeric

1 . Combine the mangos, raisins, jalapenos, garlic, gin­

ger, and sugar in a nonreactive container. Cover and
refrigerate for 24 hours.

Chapter 29 » HORS D 'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S 961

Pickled Ginger Tortilla Chips
M akes 1 lb/454 g M akes 10 servings

1 lb /4 5 4 g ginger, peeled 1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed for frying

2 tb s p /8 g s e a s a lt Cayenne, as needed

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL rice wine vinegar V A o z/3 5 g salt

5V2 o z /156 g sugar 20 corn tortillas, cut in wedges

8 shiso leaves, chiffonade

1 . Heat the oil to 350°F/i77°C in a deep pot over me­
1 . Slice the peeled ginger very thin using a Japanese dium heat.

mandoline. 2 . Combine the cayenne and salt thoroughly in a small

2 . Place the ginger slices in a medium nonreactive
bowl with 1 tsp/5 g of the salt for 10 minutes. Rinse
in hot water and drain well.
3 . Place the vinegar, sugar, shiso, and the remaining
salt in a small pot and bring to a boil. Pour the vin­
egar mixture over the ginger and cool to room tem­
perature. Allow the ginger to pickle overnight.
4 . The ginger is ready to serve now, or may be refriger­
ated for later use.
cup. Reserve.
3 . Working in batches if necessary, fry the tortilla
wedges until crisp, stirring to cook evenly.
4 . Remove the chips with a spider or slotted spoon and
drain on paper towels. Season lightly with the cay­
enne salt and serve.
Seviche of Scallops
M akes 10 servings

Pickled Red Onions 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g sea scallops, muscle

tabs removed, thinly sliced
M akes 32 fl oz/960 mL
10 o z/2 8 4 g peeled and seeded
tomatoes, cut into small dice
1 habanero
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL lemon or lime juice
1 lb /4 5 4 g thinly sliced red onions
3 o z/8 5 g red onion, cut into thin rings
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL orange juice or lime juice
2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil
Salt, as needed
2 o z/5 7 g green onions, green and
white parts, cut on the bias
1 . Roast the habanero under a salamander or over an
'/2 o z/1 4 g minced jalapeno
open flame until the skin has blistered and charred
slightly. Set aside, covered. When cool enough to 4 tb sp /1 2 g roughly chopped cilantro

handle, peel it, remove the seeds, and finely chop. l '/2 ts p /5 g salt
2 . Combine the onions, juice, and half of the chopped 1 ts p /3 g mashed garlic
habanero in a medium bowl. Toss well to coat. Mari­
nate the mixture in the refrigerator for at least 2
1 . Combine all of the ingredients gently in a large mix­
hours.
ing bowl, so that the scallops do not tear.
3 . Mix the onions and season with salt and additional
2 . Transfer the mixture to a nonreactive container and
habanero, if necessary.
marinate the scallops in the refrigerator for at least 4
4 . The onions are ready to serve now, or may be refrig­ hours and up to 12 hours.
erated for later use.
3 . Serve chilled.

B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
 hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Ceviche Estilo Smoked Salmon
Acapulco Platter
Makes10servings Makes20servings
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg wild striped bass fillets, skin on 1 smoked salmon fille t (approximately 3 lb/1.36 kg)

8 fl o z/2 4 0 g lime juice 3 Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866), whites and

yolks separated and finely chopped
2 ts p /6.50 g salt, or as needed
3 tb s p /4 5 mL rinsed and drained capers
8 f I o z/2 4 0 g tomato juice
5 o z/1 4 2 g minced red onion
3 tb sp /4 5 mL extra virgin olive oil
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL creme fratche
1 ts p /2 g dried oregano
1 tb s p /3 g chopped dill
Sugar, as needed (optional)
1 baguette, toasted and sliced
3 o z/8 5 g small-dice white onion

6 o z/1 7 0 g small-dice Roma tomatoes

1 . Slice the salmon very thin on the bias, starting from
1 o z/2 8 g chopped serrano chile the tail.
3 '/t o z/9 2 g chopped pitted green manzanilla olives 2 . Arrange the salmon on a platter and garnish with
2 tb sp /6 g chopped cilantro separate piles of the chopped egg white, chopped egg

7 o z /1 98 g diced avocado
yolks, capers, and onions.

Tortilla Chips (page 962)

3 . Combine the creme fraiche and dill. Serve the sal­
mon with the dill creme fraiche and toasted bread.

1 . Cut the fish into small cubes, against the grain of the
flesh, and place in a nonreactive bowl.
2 . Add the lime juice and salt and toss the fish until
well incorporated. Cover with plastic wrap and re­
frigerate until the fish is “cooked,” about 2 hours.
3 . Mix together the tomato juice, olive oil, oregano,
and salt to taste. (Depending on the brand of tomato
juice you may need to add a small amount of sugar to
cut the acidity.)
4 . Before service, drain the fish and reserve the juices.
Mix in the onions, tomatoes, chiles, olives, cilantro,
and the prepared tomato juice. Add the reserved
juices to taste. Adjust seasoning with salt.
5 . Immediately before serving, mix in the diced
avocados.
6 . Serve the ceviche in a wide-mouthed glass with tor­
tilla chips.

NOTE: Any m edium -activity saltw ater f ish w ill work in this
recipe. It is best to use the freshest fish possible.

c h a p te r 29 » HORS D 'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S 963

 hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Tuna Carpaccio (Crudo 1 . To make the salsa cruda, combine all the ingredi­
ents. Reserve.
di Tonno alia Battuta) 2 . With a very sharp knife, cut the tuna in 21/2-oz/7i-g
Makes10servings slices. Place each slice of tuna between i pieces of
plastic wrap and pound it paper thin, being careful
SALSA CRUDA not to tear through the tuna. Refrigerate.
11 f I o z/3 3 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 3 . To make the croutons, heat the oil in a medium
4 o z/1 13 g salted capers, rinsed saute pan over medium-high to high heat. Pan fry
the bread until golden brown. Remove and drain on
2 V i oz/71 g thinly sliced celery hearts
paper towels. Season with salt and pepper.
2 '/t o z/6 4 g red onion, cut into brunoise
4 . To make the salad, combine the frisee, arugula,
2 o z/5 7 g picholine olives, pitted and roughly chopped endive, celery leaves, radishes, and fennel fronds.
2 o z/5 7 g chopped parsley Dress lightly with l tbsp/15 mL of the lemon juice

2 ts p /6 g lemon zest, cut into julienne and blanched

and 2 tbsp/30 mL of the oil. Season with salt and
pepper.
2 garlic cloves, minced
!d . To assemble each serving, place a piece of pounded
1 jalapeno, seeded, cut into brunoise
tuna carefully in the center of a plate. Place 3 tbsp/45
Salt, as needed mL of the salsa cruda on the tuna and spread evenly.
Ground black pepper, as needed Sprinkle croutons over the tuna and place a very
small amount of salad in the middle of the tuna.
1 lb 9 o z/7 0 9 g trimmed big eye or yellowfin tuna loin Place 3 olives per plate around the tuna. Garnish
with salt and pepper and a drizzle of the remaining
CROUTONS
lemon juice and olive oil. Serve immediately.
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed for frying

12 o z/3 4 0 g white bread, crusts

removed, cut into brunoise

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

SALAD

4 o z/1 1 3 g frisee hearts

4 o z/1 1 3 g baby arugula leaves

4 o z/1 1 3 g endive spears, thinly sliced

V i o z/1 4 g celery leaves

6 radishes, cut into julienne

4 o z/1 1 3 gfennelfronds

2 tb sp /3 0 mL lemon juice

2 fl o z/6 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

GARNISH

30 olives

c h a p te r 29 » HORS D 'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S 965

Coconut Macadamia Clams Casino
Makes10servings
Shrimp
Makes10servings 4 o z /1 13 g diced bacon

4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion

M
ARINADE 3 o z/8 5 g minced green pepper
2 tb sp /3 0 mL hoisin sauce 3 o z/8 5 g minced red pepper
2 tb sp /3 0 mL dry sherry 8 o z/2 2 7 g butter
1 tb sp /1 5 mL rice wine vinegar Salt, as needed
1 tb sp /1 5 mL soy sauce Ground black pepper, as needed
I V 2 ts p /5 g salt 1 ts p /5 mL Worcestershire sauce, or as needed
1 ts p /3 g minced garlic 40 littleneck or cherrystone clams
'A ts p /0.50 g ground black pepper 10 bacon strips, blanched and cut into julienne

1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count),

peeled (tail on) and butterf lied 1 . In a small saute pan, render the diced bacon over

BATTER
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour
2 o z/5 7 g ground macadamia nuts
l ' A ts p /8 g baking soda
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL unsweetened coconut milk
1 egg, beaten
4 1 /2 o z/1 2 8 g all-purpose flour, for dredging
3 o z/8 5 g freshly grated coconut
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Asian Dipping Sauce (page 956)
low to medium heat until crisp. Add the onions and
peppers and saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Re­
move from the heat and let cool.
2 . Place the butter in a medium mixing bowl and soft­
en slightly. Season with salt, pepper, and Worcester­
shire. Add the bacon mixture and blend until evenly
mixed.
3 . Scrub the clams and discard any that are open. Re­
move the top shells from the clams and loosen the
meat from the bottom shells. Top each clam with
about V2 oz/14 g ° f the butter mixture and 1V2 tsp/5 g
of the bacon julienne. Broil the clams until the ba­
con is crisp and serve immediately.

1 . To make the marinade, mix together all the ingredi­

ents in a medium bowl. Add the shrimp, toss to coat
evenly, and marinate for 1 hour.
2 . To make the batter, mix the flour, nuts, baking soda,
coconut milk, and egg with a whisk in a bowl.
3 . Drain away excess marinade from the shrimp. Dredge
the shrimp in flour and dip into the batter, up to the
tail. Dredge the shrimp in the coconut, pressing light­
ly to flatten the shrimp and help the coconut adhere.
Place on a wire rack over a sheet pan. Refrigerate for
1 hour to allow the breading to set.
4 . Heat the oil to 350°F/i77°C in a heavy deep pot and
deep fry the shrimp until golden brown and cooked
through, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain briefly on paper towels.
Serve immediately with the dipping sauce.

B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Chesapeake-Style Crab Cakes with
Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade (page 960)
 hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Chesapeake-Style Broiled Shrimp with
Crab Cakes Garlic
Makes 10 servings Makes 10 servings

1 shallot, minced 4 o z/1 1 3 g dried bread crumbs

2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil V2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic

13 fl o z/3 9 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903) 1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley

2 eggs, beaten 1 tb sp /3 g chopped oregano

5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL Pommery mustard 6 o z/1 7 0 g butter, melted

3 tb sp /9 g chopped parsley I V 2 ts p /5 g salt

2 bunches chives, minced V* ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper

IV * ts p /6 .2 5 mL hot sauce l i b 12 o z /7 9 4 g shrimp (1 6 /2 0

count), peeled and butterflied
2 o z/5 7 g Old Bay seasoning

2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg blue crabmeat, picked

1 . Combine the bread crumbs, garlic, parsley, oregano,
3 3/4 o z/1 0 6 g saltine cracker crumbs and 4 oz/113 g ° f the butter in a medium bowl. Sea­
Salt, as needed son with the salt and pepper.

Ground black pepper, as needed 2 . For each serving, arrange 2 to 4 shrimp on a gratin
Peanut oil, as needed
dish and brush them with some of the remaining
butter.
16 fl o z /4 8 0 mL Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade
(page 960) 3 . Place 1 to 2 tsp/4 to 8 g of the bread crumb mixture
on the shrimp and place them in a 4500F/232°C oven
until they are very hot and cooked through, 2 to 3
1 . Sweat the shallots in the vegetable oil in a small
minutes. Serve immediately
saute pan until translucent. Cool.
2 . Combine the shallots, mayonnaise, eggs, mustard,
parsley, chives, hot sauce, and Old Bay. Fold the may­
onnaise mixture into the crabmeat without shred­
ding. Fold in the cracker crumbs. Season with salt
and pepper.
3 . Divide the mixture into 2-oz/57-g servings and form
into small cakes 1V2 in/4 cm in diameter and % in/2
cm thick.
4 . Saute the crab cakes in peanut oil in a cast-iron
griswold over medium-high heat until golden brown
and cooked through, 2 minutes on each side. Drain
briefly on paper towels.
5 . Serve immediately.

c h a p te r 29 » HORS D'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S 969

 S tuffed Shrimp
Makes 10 servings
1 o z/2 8 g butter, melted
2 o z/5 7 g dried bread crumbs
CRAB STUFFING
1 o z/2 8 g minced onion
l ' / 2 o z/4 3 g minced green onions,
green and white portions
V / 2 o z/4 3 g butter
V / i o z/4 3 g all-purpose flour
2V2 fl o z/7 5 mL white wine
3 fl o z/9 0 mL heavy cream
7 o z/1 9 8 g crabmeat, picked to remove cartilage
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 tb sp /30 mL lemon juice, or as needed
1 lb 12 o z /7 9 4 g shrimp (1 6 /2 0
count), peeled and butterflied
1 . Combine the melted butter and bread crumbs in a
small cup and set aside.
2 . Saute the onions and green onions in the butter in
a small sautoir over medium heat until tender. Add
the flour and cook until smooth and glossy, 2 to 3
minutes. Whisk in the wine and cook for 1 minute.
Add the cream and bring to a boil, stirring con­
stantly. Cook until thickened, 5 minutes. Gently fold
in the crabmeat. The stuffing should be very thick.
If not, simmer it longer to thicken. Season with salt,
pepper, and lemon juice. Refrigerate.
3 . Stuff the shrimp with the cooled crabmeat mixture
and sprinkle with the buttered bread crumbs.
4 . Bake in a 420°F/2i6°C oven until hot and browned,
4 to 5 minutes. Serve immediately.
970 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
Samosas
Makes 10 servings
DOUGH
12 o z/3 4 0 g all-purpose flour
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL water, warm
3 tb sp /4 5 mL vegetable oil
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt
FILLING
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice onions
I V 2 o z/4 3 g butter
1 tb sp /9 g minced ginger
2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
2 ts p /6 g minced serranos
3A ts p /1 .5 0 g crushed coriander
2 ts p /6 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)
1 tb sp /1 5 mL tomato paste
1 tb sp /1 5 mL lemon juice
1 lb /4 5 4 g fine-dice shrimp
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264)
Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
1 . Mix all the ingredients for the dough in a medium
bowl until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and let
rest for 1 hour in the refrigerator.
2 . To make the filling, saute the onions in the butter in
a medium sautoir until translucent. Add the ginger,
garlic, serranos, coriander, and curry powder and
saute until the aroma is strong, 1 to 2 minutes. Add
the tomato paste, lemon juice, and shrimp. Saute
for 2 minutes without browning. Add the stock and
simmer until almost all the liquid has evaporated.
Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate.
3 . Roll the dough in a pasta machine until very thin.
Cut into strips 2 by 8 in/5 by 20 cm-
4 . Place a small amount of filling (1 to 2 tbsp/15 to 30 mL)
on the end of a strip of dough and fold up into a tri­
angle as you would a flag. Seal the end with egg wash.
5 . Heat the oil to 375°F/i9i°C. Deep fry the samosas
until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain on paper
towels and serve while still very hot.
 hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Tofu Cakes with 6 eggs, lightly beaten

Portobello 7 o z /1 9 8 g panko bread crumbs

2 o z/5 7 g matzo meal

Mushrooms and 8 fl o z /2 4 0 mL peanut oil

Mango Ketchup 1 . To make the mango ketchup, simmer the tomatoes

Makes 10 servings and mangos in a sauce pot over low heat until
thick, about 25 minutes.
MANGO KETCHUP 2 . Transfer the mixture to a blender or food processor
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g tomatoes, rough chop and puree until smooth. Strain into a clean sauce pot.

5 lb 3 o z/2.35 kg mangos, rough chop 3 . Add the brown sugar, vinegar, ginger, cinnamon,
and cloves and bring to a simmer. Simmer, stirring
10 o z/2 8 4 g brown sugar
occasionally, until it reduces to a ketchup-like consis­
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL cider vinegar
tency, about 2 hours. Let the mixture cool completely
3/ t oz/ 2 1 g ginger, minced and strain once more. Refrigerate until needed.
’/ 2 o z/1 4 g ground cinnamon 4 . To make the portobello mushrooms, remove the
'/2 tsp / 1 g ground cloves stems and gills from the mushrooms and clean
them well. Transfer them to a shallow hotel pan.
PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS
5 . Combine the oil, vinegar, green onions, salt, and
10 portobello mushrooms pepper to make a marinade. Pour the marinade
6 '/2 fl o z/1 9 5 mL peanut oil over the mushrooms. Marinate the mushrooms,
2 V i fl o z/7 5 mL rice wine vinegar turning once, for 1 hour. Remove the mushrooms
from the marinade.
2 tb sp /1 3 g green onion, green
and white parts, minced 6 . Roast the mushrooms in a 350°F/i77°C oven until
the mushrooms are tender, about 20 minutes.
1 ts p /3 g salt

V* tsp /.5 0 g ground black pepper

7 . To make the tofu cakes, combine the carrots, cel­
ery, onions, and red and yellow peppers in a sieve.
TOFU CAKES Add 1 tbsp/10 g of the salt and let drain for 1 hour.
2 lb /9 0 7 g carrots, grated Press the vegetables to release excess liquid.

4 o z/1 1 3 g celery, grated
4 o z/1 1 3 g onion, grated
2 o z/5 7 g red pepper, minced
2 o z/5 7 g yellow pepper, minced
l ’/ 2 tb sp /1 5 g salt
8 . Press the tofu in a perforated hotel pan to release
excess liquid. Crumble the tofu and transfer to a
large bowl. Add the vegetables to the tofu. Add
the green onions, garlic, walnuts, parsley, thyme,
the remaining salt, and the pepper hot sauce, and
sesame oil, and toss to combine.

1 lb 9 o z/7 0 9 g firm tofu
8 o z/2 2 7 g green onions, minced
2 tsp / 6 g minced garlic
7 o z /1 9 8 g walnuts, ground
2 tbsp / 1 2 g chopped parsley
1 tb sp /3 g chopped thyme
1 tsp / 2 g ground black pepper
1 ts p /5 mL hot sauce
1 ts p /5 mL sesame oil, or as needed
9 . Add the eggs, panko, and matzo meal. The mix­
ture should be dry enough to hold together when
pressed. If needed, add more panko. Form the mix­
ture into 7 oz/198 g cakes.
10. Heat the oil in a large rondeau over medium heat.
Saute the cakes until lightly browned on both
sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Finish the cakes in a
350°F/i77°C oven until heated through, about 10
minutes more. Serve hot with the mushrooms and
mango ketchup.

Chapter 29 » HORS D'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T I Z E R S 971

 Pescado Frito 2 . Remove the anchovies from the marinade, drain,
and open them up like a book. Lay them flat in flour,
Makes10servings and gently press them in the flour on both sides.

ANCHOVIES
3 garlic cloves, crushed with salt
1 tb sp /6 g sweet pimenton or paprika
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL white wine vinegar
2 tb sp /1 2 g ground cumin
1 tb sp /6 g dried oregano
3 bay leaves
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL cold water
1 lb /4 5 4 g fresh anchovies or smelts, gutted
12 o z/3 4 0 g all-purpose flour
CALAMARI
9 o z/2 5 5 g all-purpose flour
3 o z/8 5 g grated Parmesan
2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley
1 lb /4 5 4 g squid, cleaned and cut into rings
3 . For the calamares, combine the flour, Parmesan, and
parsley in a medium bowl. Season the squid with salt
and pepper and dredge in the flour mixture. Allow
the squid to rest in the refrigerator for 10 minutes.
4 . Season the flounder with salt and pepper. Combine
the parsley and bread crumbs. Coat the flounder
with the flour, eggs, and bread crumb mixture us­
ing the standard breading procedure (see page 365).
Allow the flounder to rest in the refrigerator for 10
minutes.
5 . Heat the oil to 375°F/i9i°C in a heavy deep pot.
Combine the pepper flakes and tomato sauce and
reserve.
6 . Working in batches, deep fry the anchovies, squid,
and flounder until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes.
Drain the fried fish on paper towels to remove excess
oil. Season with salt and serve immediately with the
tomato sauce.

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

FLOUNDER FILLETS

1 lb /4 5 4 g flounder fillets, cut on the

diagonal into strips V i in / I cm wide

Salt, as needed

Ground black pepper, as needed

4 tb sp /1 2 g chopped parsley

8 o z/2 2 7 g fresh bread crumbs

9 o z/2 5 5 g all-purpose flour

8 eggs, lightly beaten

1 q t/9 6 0 mL olive oil

1 ts p /2 g red pepper flakes

20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Tomato Sauce (page 295)

Salt, as needed

1 . Combine the garlic, pimenton, vinegar, cumin, oreg­

ano, and bay leaves in a medium bowl. Add the cold
water and mix well. Add the anchovies and carefully
mix with the marinade. Marinate the anchovies in
the refrigerator for at least 3 hours.

972 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
 hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Mussels with White Tuna and Bean Salad
Wine and Shallots ( I n s a l a t a d i T o n n o e

( M o u l e s a la F a g i o I i)
Makes 10 servings
Mar/mere)
Makes 10 servings 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dried white beans,
soaked overnight and drained

4 lb/1.81 kg mussels 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced red onion,

soaked in cold water for 1 hour
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter
1 lb 6 o z/6 2 4 g drained imported olive oil-packed tuna
3 medium shallots, minced
2 tb s p /3 0 mL red wine vinegar, or as needed
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL dry white wine
4 '/ 2 fl o z/1 3 5 mL extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp / 1 g chopped thyme
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed

1 tb sp /3 g finely chopped parsley

1 . Cook the beans in a large sauce pot of water over
medium-low heat until tender, about 45 minutes.
1 . Scrub and debeard the mussels. Discard any that are Drain and rinse under cold water.
open.
2 . In a large bowl, combine the beans, onions, tuna,
2 . Melt l oz/28 g of the butter in a large sauteuse or vinegar, and oil. Season with salt and pepper and
saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the shallots toss gently to combine.
and cook until translucent, 1 to 2 minutes.
3 . Adjust seasoning with vinegar, salt, and pepper, if
3 . Add the wine and thyme and season with salt and necessary.
pepper. Allow the mixture to simmer for 2 to 3 min­
4 . The salad is ready to serve now, or may be refriger­
utes. Add the mussels, cover, and cook over high
ated for later use.
heat, shaking the pan often so that all of the mussels
open at about the same time, 2 to 3 minutes. Take
off the cover, remove the mussels as they open, and
transfer them to warm serving platter. When all of
the mussels have opened, strain the cooking broth
through a fine sieve.
4 . Wipe out the pan and return the broth to it. Bring
the liquid to a boil and cook briefly over high heat
until slightly syrupy, about 1 minute. Remove the
pan from the heat and whisk the remaining butter
into the broth, a little at a time.
5 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
Pour the broth over the mussels, garnish with the
parsley, and serve immediately.

ch a p t e r 29 » HORS D’O E U V R E A N D A P P E T I Z E R S 975

Baby Squid in Black 6 . To make the black ink sauce, add the onions, pep­
pers, and garlic to the pan and saute until caramel­
Ink Sauce (Txipirones ized, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato puree and
cook until rust colored.
Saltsa Beltzean) 7 . Deglaze with the wine and reduce by half. Add the
Makes 10 servings squid ink and the juices from reserved squid to the
sauce. Puree the sauce in a blender until smooth.
20 baby squid Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL olive oil 8 . Combine the squid with the sauce and simmer over
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion very low heat until it is tender and the sauce has
slightly reduced, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately.
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced green pepper

4 o z/1 1 3 g minced Serrano ham

2 o z/5 7 g dried bread crumbs

Salt, as needed Octopus “Fairground

Ground black pepper, as needed

BLACK INK SAUCE

Style” (Pulpo a Feira)
Makes 10 servings
8 o z/2 27 g minced onion

8 o z/2 2 7 g minced green pepper 2 onions, roughly chopped

3 garlic cloves, minced 1 bay leaf

4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL tomato puree 2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt

8 f I o z/ 240 mL white wine 4 lb/1.81 kg octopus

4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL squid ink 1 o z/2 8 g pimenton or smoked paprika

8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil

1 . Clean the squid. Remove the tentacles and cut them
into small pieces, about Va in/6 mm. 1 . Bring a large stockpot of water to a boil with the on­
2 . Heat 2 fl oz/6o mL of the oil in a medium saute pan ions, bay leaf, and 1V2 tsp/5 g ° f the salt.
over high heat. Add the tentacles and saute briefly. 2 . Holding the octopus by its body, plunge the octopus
Remove the tentacles from the pan with the released tentacles in and out of boiling water in 5-second in­
juices and reserve separately. crements; repeat 3 times.
3 . In the same pan, over medium heat, heat 2 tbsp/30 3 . Place the entire octopus back in the water and sim­
mL of the oil, add the onions and peppers, and cook mer until the octopus is tender, about 1V2 hours.
slowly until caramelized, about 5 minutes. Add the
4 . Remove the octopus and reserve the liquid. Allow
ham and cook for 2 minutes more. Mix in the re­
the octopus to rest until cool enough to handle. Peel
served tentacles and the bread crumbs. Season with
the octopus and cut into i-in/3-cm pieces.
salt and pepper. Remove the filling from the pan and
let it rest until cool enough to handle. 5 . For service, bring the cooking liquid to a simmer.
Submerge a single order of octopus in the liquid for
4 . Stuff each squid with the filling and secure it with a
30 seconds to reheat. Drain, plate, and sprinkle with
toothpick.
pimenton and salt. Drizzle 1 to 2 tbsp/15 t° 30 mL
5 . Heat the remaining 2 fl oz/6o mL of oil in a large olive oil and serve immediately.
saute pan over medium-high heat. Sear the stuffed
squid until lightly browned and slightly firmed,
about 2 minutes on each side. Remove the squid
from the pan and reserve.

B RE A K F A S T A N D GA R D E M A N G E R
 hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Grilled Shrimp Paste . Smooth the paste with oiled hands. Reserve on an
oiled plate. Repeat with the remaining paste and
on Sugarcane (Chao sugarcane.

. Steam the skewers until the shrimp paste is firm and

Tom) opaque, 2 to 5 minutes. Reserve until service.
Makes 10 servings
. Grill the skewers until the shrimp paste is lightly
browned, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Brush with
2 o z/5 7 g pork fatback
green onion oil and serve immediately.
1 tb s p /1 5 mL peanut oil, plus as needed for shaping

2 medium shallots, minced

12 o z/3 4 0 g shrimp (3 1 /3 5 count), peeled

and deveined, roughly chopped

2 ts p /1 0 mL fish sauce

’/ 2 0 z /1 4 g sugar

1 ts p /3 g minced garlic

le g g
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground white pepper

V i o z/1 4 g cornstarch

I V 2 ts p /4.50 g baking powder

2 green onions, green and white portions, thinly sliced

10 pieces sugarcane, fresh or canned, 4 in/10

cm long, no greater than I/ 2 in/ 1 cm wide

5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL Green Onion Oil (page 907)

1 . Blanch the fatback in boiling water for about 10 min­

utes. Drain and mince finely.
2 . Heat the peanut oil in a medium saute pan over medi­
um-high heat and saute the shallots until translucent,
1 to 2 minutes. Combine the shallots and fatback in a
medium bowl and cool to room temperature.
3 . Add the shrimp, fish sauce, sugar, garlic, egg, pepper,
cornstarch, and baking powder. Mix well to evenly
coat the shrimp.
4 . Transfer the mixture to a food processor fitted with a
steel blade. Pulse just until a smooth paste forms. Do
not overmix or it will become tough.
5 . Scrape into to a medium bowl. Stir in the green
onions. Test the mixture and adjust seasoning if nec­
essary.
6 . With wet hands, form about 1 oz/28 g of the paste
into a ball. Flatten the paste in your palm and place
a sugarcane skewer on top, leaving about V2 in/i cm
clear on each end. Close your hand to wrap the paste
around the skewer and press the paste to adhere
tightly (the paste should be about Vi in/i cm thick).

c h a p t e r 29 » HORS D’O E U V R E A N D A P P E T I ZE R S 977

Mushroom Strudel side down onto a half sheet pan. Brush the top of the
strudel with more of the melted butter. Repeat the
with Goat Cheese process to form a total of 4 strudels.

Makes 12 servings 7 . Bake in a 375°F/ic)i0C oven until golden brown and

crisp, 30 to 35 minutes. Slice each strudel into 6.
2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil Serve 2 slices for each portion with sauce and sour
4 lb/1.81 kg mushrooms, sliced V a in/ 6 mm thick cream.

V / 2 o z/4 3 g finely chopped shallot

V 2 o z/1 4 g finely chopped garlic

4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL dry sherry

12 o z/3 4 0 g goat cheese, at room temperature

Black Bean Cakes
Makes 10 servings
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced chives

1 tb sp /3 g chopped thyme 14 o z/3 9 7 g dried black beans, soaked and drained

lt b s p /lO g s a lt 3 q t/2 .8 8 L Vegetable Stock (page 2 6 5) or water

1 tsp / 2 g ground black pepper 2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil

12 phyllo dough sheets, 11 by 16 in /2 8 by 41 cm 3 o z/8 5 g minced onion

4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, melted V 2 o z/1 4 g minced jalapeno

14 f I o z/4 2 0 mL Madeira Sauce (page 463), warm 1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic

2 fl o z/6 0 mL sour cream 3/4 ts p /1 .5 0 g Chili Powder (page 368 or purchased)

3/ t ts p /1 .5 0 g ground cumin

1 . Heat l tbsp/15 mL of the oil in a large saute pan over 3/ t ts p /1.50 g ground cardamom
medium-high heat. In batches, saute the mushrooms
1 tsp / 1 g roughly chopped cilantro
until golden brown. Drain and reserve any liquid
1 ts p /5 mL lime juice
that accumulates in the pan. Remove the mush­
rooms and set aside. 1 egg white

2 . In the same pan, saute the shallots and garlic until lt b s p /lO g s a lt
the shallots are lightly browned, about 5 minutes. V 2 tsp / 1 g ground black pepper
Add back the sauteed mushrooms.
4 o z/1 1 3 gcornmeal
3 . Reduce the heat to medium-low and deglaze the
V / 2 o z/4 3 g butter
pan with the sherry. Add any reserved mushroom
juice and cook until the liquid reduces and becomes GARNISH
slightly syrupy, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the mush­ 4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL sour cream
room mixture to a medium bowl and cool to room
5 fl o z /1 5 0 mL Pico de Gallo (page 953)
temperature.
4 . Stir in the goat cheese, chives, and thyme. Season
1 . Put the beans and stock in a large stockpot and bring
with salt and pepper.
to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook,
5 . Keep the phyllo covered with plastic wrap and a covered, until tender. Uncover and continue to cook
damp cloth to prevent them from drying. For each slowly until the stock is reduced by half.
strudel, brush 1 sheet of phyllo dough with butter.
2 . Drain off and reserve the cooking liquid. Working in
Repeat to create a total of 5 layers.
batches if necessary, puree two-thirds of the beans in
6 . Spread one-quarter of the filling over the top sheet a blender or food processor with some of the cook­
of phyllo, leaving a i-in/3-cm space around the edges ing liquid to create a smooth paste. Recombine with
of the dough. Roll tightly, starting on the long side the remaining whole beans.
and folding in the edges, to form a log. Place seam

B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R

D . Heat the oil in a medium saute pan over medium
heat. Add the onions and jalapenos and cook until
tender and light blond, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the
garlic, chili powder, cumin, cardamom, and cilantro
and saute until aromatic, about 3 minutes. Add to
the bean mixture.
4 . Add the lime juice and egg white and stir until
blended. Season with the salt and pepper. Form into
2-oz/57-g patties. Chill thoroughly.
5 . Dust the patties with cornmeal. Heat the butter in a
large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the pat­
ties and saute on both sides until the exterior is crisp
and the cake is very hot, about 3 minutes per side.
6 . Remove the cakes from the pan, blot briefly on paper
towels, and arrange on heated plates. Serve at once,
garnished with the sour cream and pico de gallo.
hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Potato Omelet
(Tortilla Espanola)
Makes 10 servings
7 fl o z/2 1 0 mL olive oil
9 o z/2 5 5 g small-dice onions
4 o z/1 1 3 g small-dice green peppers
1 lb 11 0 2 /7 6 5 g medium-dice russet potatoes
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
14 eggs
1 . Heat 3 fl oz/90 mL of the oil in a large saute pan or
rondeau over medium heat. Add the onions and pep­
pers and cook, stirring frequently, until both are ten­
der and the onions are transparent, about 5 minutes.
2 . Add the potatoes and season with salt and pepper.
Cover and cook over low to medium-low heat until
the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.
3 . Whisk the eggs until smooth in a large bowl. Add the
cooked potato mixture.
4 . Heat a very large saute pan over medium-high heat.
Pour in 2 fl oz/6o mL of the oil and heat until close
to smoking. Add half of the egg and potato mix­
ture and lower the heat to medium-low. Cook for 3
minutes, until the eggs coagulate and begin to turn
golden on the bottom. Flip the tortilla and cook until
the underside is golden brown and the tortilla feels
firm, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the tortilla to a sheet
tray and reserve warm; repeat with the remaining oil
and egg mixture.
5 . Slice the tortillas into wedges and serve hot, warm,
or at room temperature.
Chapter 29 » HO RS D' OEUV RE A N D A P P E T I Z E R S 979
Spring Roils 6 . Stir all the contents of the wok several times to en­
sure that the solids are coated with the thickened
Makes 10 servings
liquid. Remove from the heat and cool thoroughly.
1 qt plus 1 tb s p /9 7 5 mL vegetable oil, or as needed 7 . Place 3 to 4 tbsp/55 to 75 g filling on each spring roll
1 ts p /3 g minced ginger sheet with a slotted spoon (be careful to drain off
any excess liquid), leaving a 2-in/5-cm border at each
o z/1 4 g thinly sliced green onions,
'/ 2
green and white parts end. Brush the edges of each sheet with egg wash.
Fold the corners over the filling, and roll the filling
8 o z/2 2 7 g ground pork butt
up in the wrapper, sealing with more egg wash, if
'A ounce/7 g black mushrooms, rehydrated
necessary.
in warm water and minced
8 . Hold the finished rolls onto a parchment-lined sheet
8 o z/2 2 7 g napa cabbage chiffonade
pan dusted with cornstarch until ready to fry.
8 o z/2 2 7 g bean sprouts
9 . Heat the remaining oil to 350°F/i77°C in a heavy
2 o z/5 7 g thinly sliced shiitake mushrooms
deep pot and deep fry the rolls until golden brown,
o z/1 4 g green onion, green parts
'/ 2 about 2 minutes. (Work in batches, if necessary.)
only, cut into julienne
Drain on paper towels. Serve immediately with the
V/ 2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL dark soy sauce dipping sauce and spicy mustard.
IV 2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL rice wine
V/2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL sesame oil
l '/ 2 ts p /7 .5 0 g sugar

1 ts p /3 g salt

V 2 tsp / 1 g ground white pepper

1 tb sp /9 g cornstarch, dissolved in 1 tb sp /15

mL water to make a slurry, plus as needed

10 spring roll wrappers

Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed

20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Spring Roll Dipping Sauce (page 957)

5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL Spicy Mustard (page 960)

1 . Heat l tbsp/15 mL of the vegetable oil in a wok over

medium-high heat. Add the ginger and sliced green
onions and stir-fry until aromatic, 30 seconds to 1
minute.
2 . Add the pork and stir-fry until cooked through, 6 to
8 minutes.
3 . Add the black mushrooms and stir-fry for about 2
minutes more.
4 . Add the cabbage, bean sprouts, shiitakes, and green
onion julienne. Stir-fry until all the vegetables are
tender, 5 to 6 minutes.
5 . Add the soy sauce, wine, sesame oil, sugar, salt, and
pepper. Mix together, then push the solid ingredi­
ents to the side of the wok. Thicken the excess liquid
in the bottom of the wok with the slurry.

B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
 hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
California Rolls Vietnamese Salad
Makes 10 rolls
Rolls
5 sheets (7 by 9 in /1 8 by 2 3 cm) nori
Makes 10 servings
2 tb sp /3 0 mL rice wine vinegar
5 o z/1 4 2 g carrots, cut into fine julienne
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL water
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
4 lb 1 o z/1 .8 4 kg cooked Sushi Rice (page 785)
5 o z/1 4 2 g vermicelli-style rice noodles,
V A o z/3 5 g sesame seeds, toasted
cooked, shocked, and drained
1 English cucumber (about 15 o z/4 2 5 g), peeled, 3 tb s p /4 5 mL lime juice
cored, and cut into sticks (Va in by 5 in /3 mm by 13 cm)
3 tb sp /9 g cilantro leaves
1 avocado (about 7 o z/1 9 8 g), seeded, peeled,
and cut into Vs-in/S-mm-thick slices 3 tb sp /9 g mint leaves

7 to 8 o z/1 9 8 to 2 2 7 g surimi, split in half lengthwise 3 tb sp /9 g Thai basil leaves

Pickled Ginger (page 962 or purchased), as needed 1 o z/2 8 g sugar

Wasabi (page 9 6 0 or purchased), as needed 1 q t/9 6 0 mL water, warm

10 rice paper rounds ( 6 V 2 in /1 7 cm in diameter)

1 . Prepare the bamboo mat by wrapping it tightly and 10 green leaf lettuce leaves
cleanly in plastic wrap.
10 poached shrimp (3 0 /3 5 count), peeled
2 . Fold a piece of nori in half lengthwise; make sure the and sliced in half lengthwise
ripples are parallel to the fold and cut along the fold. 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Vietnamese
Lay the nori on the mat at the edge closest to you. Dipping Sauce (page 956)

3 . Combine the vinegar and water. Dip your hands in

the mixture, scoop out 6V2 oz/184 g (a generous 2V2
cups/600 mL) of the sushi rice, and spread the rice
in an even layer over the nori. If necessary, dip your
hands in the vinegar mixture again to prevent the
rice from sticking as you work.
4 . Sprinkle 1 tsp/2 g of sesame seeds on the rice and
then flip the roll so that the long edge of the nori is
facing you. Lay 6 cucumber sticks, 2 avocado slices,
and 2 half-sticks of surimi across the length of the
roll, one-third of the way in from the edge closest
to you. Some of the garnish should be sticking out
either end.
5 . Bring the edge of the mat closest to you up and over
the garnish. Continue to roll, tucking in and tighten­
ing the roll as you go. Gently press the roll between
your palms and the work surface. Slice into 6 even
pieces. Serve immediately with a garnish of pickled
ginger slices and a small mound of wasabi.
6 . Repeat with the remaining ingredients to form 10
rolls.
1 . Combine the carrots and salt and let sit for 10 min­
utes. Squeeze the carrots and discard any juices.
Combine the carrots with the noodles, lime juice,
cilantro, mint, and basil.
2 . Combine the sugar and water. One sheet at a time,
place the rice paper in the water briefly to soften.
Remove the rice paper from the water and blot dry.
3 . For each roll, place 1 lettuce leaf on a softened rice
paper. Top with 1 oz/28 g of the noodle mixture and
1 shrimp (2 halves). Fold the paper around the fill­
ing, and roll into a cylinder.
4 . Cut the roll in half and serve immediately with the
dipping sauce.

c h a p t e r 29 » HORS D' OEUV RE A N D A P P E T I ZE R S

Beef Carpaccio Beef Satay with
Makes 10 servings
Peanut Sauce
3 tb sp /4 5 mL vegetable oil Makes 10 servings
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg beef sirloin, trimmed and tied
MARINADE
HERB RUB
2 tb s p /3 0 mL fish sauce
1 4 o z /3 9 7 gsalt
1 tb s p /1 5 g palm sugar
1 tb sp /1 5 mL balsamic vinegar
r / 2 ts p /4.50 g minced lemongrass
1 tbsp / 6 g ground white pepper (tender center portion only)
1 tb sp /3 g chopped rosemary 1 ts p /3 g minced ginger
2 tb sp /3 0 mL olive oil 1 ts p /3 g minced garlic
1 tb sp /3 g chopped sage 1 ts p /3 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)
1 tb sp /3 g chopped thyme V2ts p /2.50 mL Thai chili paste
GARNISH
1 lb /4 5 4 g flank steak, cut 1 by 4 by
Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed Vsin /3 cm by 10 cm by 3 mm
Grated or shaved Parmesan, as needed
PEANUT SAUCE
20 to 30 cured black olives, pitted and chopped
1 tb s p /1 5 mL peanut oil
2 tb sp /3 0 mL capers, rinsed
1 ts p /3 g minced garlic
’/ 2 tsp / 1 g ground black pepper
1 tb sp /9 g minced shallot

1 ts p /5 mL Thai chili paste

1 . Heat 2 tbsp/30 mL of the vegetable oil in a medium
saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the beef and V 2 ts p /1 .50 g minced lime zest

sear on all sides just until colored, about 1 minute '/t ts p /0.75 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)
per side. Remove from the pan and set on a large
I V 2 ts p /4 .5 0 g minced lemongrass
piece of plastic wrap. (tender center portion only)

2 . Mix together all the ingredients for the herb rub in a 3 f I o z/9 0 mL unsweetened coconut milk
small bowl. Press and rub it into the beef, then wrap
V2ts p /2.50 mL tamarind pulp
the beef securely in plastic wrap. Refrigerate about 1
1 tb s p /1 5 mLfish sauce
hour before slicing and plating.
1 tb s p /1 5 g palm sugar
3 . Freeze the wrapped meat for 1 hour to facilitate
slicing. l '/ 2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL lime juice

4 . Slice the beef very thin on an electric slicer. For each 3 o z/8 5 g peanuts, roasted, cooled,
and ground into a paste
serving, place about 4 oz/113 of the slices on a chilled
plate. Rub a few drops of vegetable oil on the beef Salt, as needed
and cover with plastic wrap. Using a spoon, starting Ground black pepper, as needed
from the center, spread out the beef to the edge of
the plate in a thin, even layer.
1 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a
5 . Remove the plastic before serving the carpaccio. hotel pan. Marinate the meat for 1 hour in the
Drizzle with a few drops of extra-virgin olive oil and refrigerator.
garnish with grated Parmesan, olives, capers, and
2 . To make the peanut sauce, heat the oil in a medium
pepper. Serve immediately.
saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the garlic,
shallots, chili paste, lime zest, curry powder, and
lemongrass. Stir-fry until aromatic.

B RE A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R

. Add the coconut milk, tamarind, fish sauce, sugar,
lime juice, and peanut paste. Simmer the sauce until
thickened, 15 to 20 minutes. Season with salt and
pepper. Cool to room temperature.
. Soak 6-in/i5-cm bamboo skewers in hot water for 1
hour. Thread the beef skewers and allow any excess
marinade to drain from the beef before grilling; blot
if necessary. Grill the beef until cooked to medium
and browned nicely on the outside, 30 seconds to 1
minute on each side.
. Serve immediately with the peanut sauce.
V itelloTonnato
Makes 10 servings
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g boneless leg of veal, tied,
seasoned, roasted, and chilled
6 o z/1 7 0 g drained canned albacore tuna
4 anchovy fillets
V / 2 o z/4 3 g finely diced onion
V / 2 o z/4 3 g finely diced carrot
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL dry white wine
2 fl o z/6 0 mL white wine vinegar
2 fI o z/6 0 mL water
2 tb sp /3 0 mL olive oil
2 Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866 ), yolks only, sieved
1 tb s p /1 5 mL capers, drained and chopped
1 . Slice the veal about Vs in/3 mm thick on an electric
slicer. You will need about 2 oz/57 g per serving.
2 . Combine the tuna, anchovies, onions, carrots, wine,
vinegar, and water in a food processor. Process to a
relatively smooth paste.
3 . Arrange the sliced veal on chilled plates. Nappe it
with the tuna sauce and drizzle with olive oil.
4 . Garnish with the egg yolks and capers and serve
immediately.
hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Lobster Salad with
Beets, Mangos,
Avocados, and Orange
Oil
Makes 10 servings
5 live lobsters (1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g each)
3 or 4 medium red beets, cooked and peeled
3 or 4 ripe mangos
3 or 4 ripe avocados
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Orange Oil (page 983)
5 o z/1 4 2 g peeled and seeded
tomatoes, cut into small dice
1 . Cook the lobsters by boiling or steaming until they
are cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from
the pot and cool.
2 . Remove the meat from the tail and claw sections
(see pages 414 to 415 for more information on work­
ing with lobsters). Slice the tail sections in half
lengthwise. Remove the vein from each tail section.
Reserve the claw and tail meat.
3 . Slice the beets about V2 in/i cm thick. Use a round
cutter to shape into circles, if desired.
4 . Peel the mangos and avocados as close to service
time as possible. Slice them about V2 in/i cm thick.
5 . Arrange the beets, avocados, and mangos on chilled
plates and season with salt and pepper. Top with the
lobster ( V2 tail and 1 claw section per salad). Drizzle
a few drops of oil over the salad.
6 . Garnish with diced tomato. Brush the lobster with
additional oil, season with salt and pepper, and serve
immediately.
c h a p t e r 29 » HORS D' OE U V R E A N D A P P E T I Z E R S 983
Pork and Pepper Pie 4 . Add the tomato paste, stirring to incorporate. Add
the ham and the reserved pork and season with the
(Empanada Gallega paprika and salt. Remove from the heat and reserve.
5 . Divide the dough in 2 rounded pieces. Roll each
de Cerdo) piece of dough V4 in/6 mm thick. Line a greased
Makes 10 servings 9-in/23-cm pie pan with one piece of dough. Place
the filling in the pan and cover with the other piece
DOUGH of dough, sealing the edges with your fingers.
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g all-purpose flour 6 . Brush the top of the pie with egg yolk and water and
2 tb s p /3 0 mL white wine use scissors to cut a small vent in the center. Bake
in a 350°F/i77°C oven until browned, about 30 min­
2 tb sp /3 0 mL olive oil
utes. If the top begins to become too brown, cover
2 tb sp /3 0 mL clarified butter loosely with foil. Remove from the oven and serve.
'A tsp /1 g salt

3A o z /2 1 g sugar

10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL water, lukewarm

FILLING

3 tb s p /4 5 mL olive oil

1 lb /4 5 4 g boneless pork loin, cut into medium dice

10 o z/2 8 4 g small-dice onion

9 o z/2 5 5 g small-dice green pepper

2 garlic cloves, minced

r /2 ts p /2 5 g tomato paste

3'A o z/9 2 g Serrano ham, thinly sliced

I tsp /1.50 g sweet Spanish paprika, or as needed

'A tsp /1 g salt

1 egg yolk mixed with 1 tb s p /1 5 mL water

1 . Sift the flour into a medium bowl and make a well in

the center. Add the wine, oil, butter, salt, sugar, and
water. Mix by pulling the flour into the wet ingredi­
ents with a fork. When a loose dough forms, knead
for about 2 minutes to make a flexible dough. Cover
and refrigerate for about 30 minutes.
2 . While the dough is resting, prepare the filling. Heat
the oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the
pork and saute until browned, about 4 minutes. Re­
move the pork and reserve.
3 . Add the onions and peppers to the oil and cook until
they begin to caramelize, about 4 minutes. Add the
garlic and cook until aromatic, 2 minutes more.

B RE A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
charcuterie and
garde manger
Charcuterie, strictly speaking, refers to certain foods made from the pig, including
sausage, smoked ham, bacon, head cheese, pates, and terrines. Garde manger,
traditionally referred to as the kitchen's pantry or larder section, is where foods
are kept cold during extended storage and while being prepared as a cold plate.

CHAPTER 30
 Forcemeat, a b a s ic c o m p o n e n t of c h a r c u t e r ie a nd g arde m a n g e r p r e p a r a t io n s s uc h as

P A T E S A N D T E R R I N E S , I S P R E P A R E D B Y G R I N D I N G L E A N M E A T S T O G E T H E R W I T H FA T A N D S E A S O N I N G S

TO F O R M A N E M U L S IO N .

forcemeats
There are fiv e typ e s o f fo rce m e a t. A m ousselin e-style f o r c e m e a t con sists o f leaner, m ore
de lica te m eats such as salmon or chicken com bined w ith cream and eggs. A s t ra ig h t f o rc e ­
m e a t calls fo r lean m eats to be ground to g e th e r w ith fa tb a ck. C o un try -sty le fo rc e m e a ts
have a coarser te x tu re than o th e r fo rc e m e a ts and usually c ontain liver. Gratin fo rc e m e a ts
are sim ila r to s tra ig h t fo rc e m e a ts w ith the fo llo w in g d iffe re n ce : a p o rtio n o f the m eat is
seared and cooled b e fo re it is ground w ith the o th e r in gre die nts. Emulsion forcem eats, or
5 -4 -3 -ty p e , re fe r to the ra tio o f m eat, fa t, and w a te r and are used to make item s such as
fra n k fu rte rs , bologna, and m ortad ella.
Once pureed o r ground to g e th e r, fo rc e m e a ts are m ixed long enough to develop a uni­
fo rm and sliceable te x tu re and to ensure a good em ulsion. A ll fiv e fo rc e m e a t style s have a
num ber o f a p p lica tio n s in th e p ro fe ssio n a l kitchen: to prepare ap pe tizers, to use as s t u f f ­
ings, or to produce garde m anger sp e cia lty item s including pates, te rrin e s, and galantines.
A ll necessary in g re d ie n ts and eq uipm en t used in p re p a rin g fo rc e m e a t m ust be scrupu­
lously clean and w ell chilled a t all tim e s so th a t the lean m eat and fa ts can com bine p ro p ­
erly. R e frig e ra te in g re d ie n ts and grin d in g eq uipm en t u n til the y are needed and hold them
over a co n ta in e r o f ice to keep the te m p e ra tu re low durin g actual pre pa ration . E quipm ent
can be chilled in ice w ater, if necessary.

FORCEM EAT C O M PO N EN TS

Forcem eats have th re e basic com ponents. The main (dom inant) m eat provides the fo rc e ­
meat's fla v o r and body. Fat gives a richness and smoothness; it may be e ith e r the fa t th a t oc­
curs na turally in a cut o f meat, or in the fo rm o f fa tb a ck or heavy cream. Seasonings are c r iti­
cal, especially salt. S alt not only enhances the fo rc e m e a t’s fla v o r but it also plays a key role in
developing the forcem eat's te x tu re and bind. O ther seasonings may be added as desired.
An a d d itio n a l com ponent, a secondary binding agent, is som e tim es req uire d to help
bind th e fo rc e m e a t to g e th e r, especially if th e main ite m is de lica te or when it is n o t fin e ly
ground. These binders may be eggs or egg w hites, or a m ixtu re o f cream and eggs. Pate a
choux, cooked rice, cooked p o ta to e s, or n o n fa t dry m ilk pow der may be used as binders fo r
fo rce m e a ts.
Panadas are also used as binders. To make a bread panada, soak cubed bread in m ilk, in
a ra tio o f one p a rt bread to one p a rt m ilk (by volum e), u n til th e bread has absorbed the milk.
A flo u r panada is e sse n tia lly a very heavy becham el enriched w ith th re e to fo u r egg yolks
per 16 f l o z /4 8 0 mL o f liquid. S om etim es eggs are also added to panadas.
G arnishes are o fte n fo ld e d in to a fo rc e m e a t o r arranged in the fo rc e m e a t as the pate
o r te rrin e m old is fille d . O ptions include such item s as nuts, diced m eats or vegetables,
d ried fru its , and tru ffle s .
A v a rie ty o f liners or w ra pp ers can be used when p re pa ring te rrin e s and pates. Thin
sheets o f ham, p ro s c iu tto , or vegetables are com m only used fo r te rrin e s. Pates en croOte
are baked in p a s try -lin e d m olds. The dough used fo r pates is, by necessity, a s tro n g e r dough
than a norm al pie dough, although th e p re p a ra tio n tech niq ue is id en tical. (Pate dough may

986 B RE A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
 torcem eats
also be used to prepare b a rq u e tte m olds.) Herbs, spices, lem on zest, or flo u rs o th e r than
bread flo u r may be added to change the fla v o r o f th e dough. For in s tru c tio n s fo r lining a
pate m old w ith dough, see page 991.
Aspic is applied to fo o d s to pre ven t the m fro m d ryin g o u t and to preserve th e ir fre s h ­
ness. A spic is a w ell-seasoned, highly gelatinous, p e rfe c tly c la rifie d stock. It is fre q u e n tly
s tre n g th e n e d by adding g e la tin (see page 995). When p ro p e rly prepared, aspic sets firm ly
b u t s till m e lts in the m outh. A spic made fro m consom m es m ade w ith w h ite s to ck th a t w ill
be clear or lig h t brown. When th e base s to c k is brown, th e aspic is am ber or brown. O ther
colors may be achieved by adding an a p p ro p ria te spice, herb, or v eg etab le puree.

PREPARING THE FORCEMEAT

Use a m eat g rin d e r to prepare m ost m eats, although a fo o d pro cesso r is adequate to grind
de lica te m eats and fish. Be sure th a t the blade fo r e ith e r th e g rin d e r or th e fo o d processor
is ve ry sharp. M ea ts should be cut cleanly, never m angled o r mashed as th e y pass through
the grinder. Have an ice bath ready over which to m ix and hold the fo rce m e a t. Forcem eats
can be m ixed by hand over ice w ith a spoon, in an e le c tric m ixer, o r in a fo o d processor.
Some fo rc e m e a ts are pushed th ro u g h a drum sieve to rem ove any fib e rs o r sinew. Once
prepared, fo rc e m e a ts can be shaped in a v a rie ty o f m olds, includ in g earth en w are molds
known as te rrin e s and hinged pate molds, as w e ll as a v a rie ty o f s p e cia lty molds.
Follow sound s a n ita tio n procedures and m aintain cold te m p e ra tu re s a t all tim es. M ain­
ta in in g the c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re is im p o rta n t fo r m ore than the p ro p e r fo rm a tio n o f an
em ulsion. Ing re dients used in a fo rc e m e a t are o fte n highly su sce p tib le to con tam in ation
due to handling, extended c o n ta c t w ith equipm ent, and g re a te r exposure to air. Pork, po u l­
try , seafood, and da iry pro du cts begin to lose th e ir q u a lity and s a fe ty ra p id ly when they
rise above 40°F/4°C . If the fo rc e m e a t seems to be approaching room te m p e ra tu re a t any
p o in t in its p re pa ration , it is to o warm . S top w o rk and chill all in g re d ie n ts and equipm ent.
Resume w o rk only a fte r e ve ryth in g is below 40 °F /4 °C once more. Em ulsion or 5 -4 -3 fo rc e ­
m eats are th e exception: The m eat and w a te r are b ro u g h t up to 40 °F /4 °C b e fo re the fa t
is blended in. A t 45°F/7°C , n o n fa t dry m ilk is added. The em ulsion is m ixed u n til it reaches
58 °F /14°C . It is then cooled qu ickly to p re ve n t pathogen gro w th.
G rind fo o d s p ro pe rly. Both th e do m in ant m ea t and fa tb a c k (if used) m ust be p ro p e rly
ground b e fo re th e fo rc e m e a t can be prepared. Some garnishes are also ground along w ith
th e m ea t and fa t.
To prepare th e m eat fo r grinding, cu t it in to s trip s o r cubes th a t w ill f i t easily through
the grinder's fee d tube. Combine it w ith an adequate am ount o f s a lt and the desired sea­
sonings and le t the m eat m arinate in the re frig e ra to r fo r up to 4 hours. The s a lt w ill draw
o u t p ro te in s resp on sible f o r both fla v o r and te x tu re developm ent.
To prepare a grinder, choose the co rre ct size die. For all b u t very delicate m eats (fish and
some type s o f organ meats, fo r example), begin w ith a die th a t has large or medium openings.
Continue to grind throu gh progressively sm aller dies u n til you achieve the co rre ct consis­
tency. S ta rtin g w ith a sm all die can cause the equipm ent to heat up via fric tio n and threa ten
th e emulsion. Remem ber to chill ingredients and equipm ent between successive grindings.
To use a grinder, guide the s trip s o f m eat and fa tb a c k in to th e fe e d tube. If the y are the
c o rre c t size, th e y w ill be drawn in easily by th e worm . If th e y s tic k to the fee d tra y or the
sides o f th e fe e d tube, the y can be aided throu gh w ith a tam per, b u t do n o t fo rc e the fo o d s
throu gh th e fee d tu b e w ith a tam per.
To use a fo o d processor, cut the m eat in to sm all dice b e fo re seasoning it. Chill the blade
and bow l o f th e fo o d processor. Run the machine ju s t long enough to grind th e m eat in to
a sm oo th paste. Pulsing th e machine o f f and on and scraping down th e sides o f the bowl
produces th e m o st even te x tu re .

ch a p t e r 30 » C H A R C U T E R I E A N D G ARDE M A N G E R 987
B basic formula

Straight Forcemeat 4 1 /2 oz/128 g shallots, Secondary binder such as

(2 lb /9 0 7 g) sweated and cooled panada or 1 medium egg

9 oz/255 g lean pork Seasonings and herbs, as needed 2 to 4 fl oz/60 to 120 mL

heavy cream (optional)
9 oz/255 g predominant meat (lean) 1 /4 tsp/1.25 mL Instacure
No. 1 (optional) Garnish, as needed
9 oz/255 g pork fat

method at-a-glance
1. Prepare th e m eats, fa t, and p rogressive grinding, expert tips
garnish ing re d ie nts; chill g rind the main in g re d ie n t
well. tw ice, using f ir s t a coarse
and then a m edium die. O p t f o r well-
2. Cut the m eats and fa t
R e frig e ra te or hold the exercised cuts of
into s trip s or 1 in /2 .5 cm
m ixtu re over ice. meat f o r forcemeats,
dice. Add th e shallots,
since they have a richer flavor than
seasonings, and Insta-cure 4. Combine th e m eat m ix tu re
very tender cuts. However, meats to
( if using). M arina te them as w ith the egg and cream ( if
be used as garnishes can easily be
required. Keep them chilled using) and puree in a fo o d
the more delicate portions.
a t all tim es. processor.

3. Grind the m eats and fa t. 5. Fold in the garnish by hand,

If th e recipe calls fo r w orking over ice. Test fo r
fla v o r and consistency.

1. chill both the equipment andthe 3. once ground, th e fo rc e m e a t is m ixed in

in g re d ie n ts to help keep th e fo rc e m e a t below 40 °F /4 °C
and o u t o f th e danger zone. T em perature c o n tro l is also
the key to achieving th e b e st re su lts. W hen fo rc e m e a ts are
ke p t w e ll chille d th ro u g h o u t processing, m ixing, and co o k­
ing, th e y req uire less fa t, y e t s till have a sm oo th te x tu re
and an appealing m o u th fe e l. The fla v o r o f th e fo rc e m e a t
its e lf is g e ne rally b e tte r, as w ell. To prepare the m eat and
fa tb a c k fo r a fo rc e m e a t, trim it o f any g ris tle , sinew, or
skin. Cut the m eat in to a dice, so it can drop easily throu gh
the fee d tub e o f a g rin d e r o r be q u ickly processed to a
paste in a fo o d processor.
2. some forcemeat formulas win
call fo r some or all o f the m eats and fa t to be ground using
a m ethod called progressive grinding. Review the recipe to
determ ine if you w ill need one or more grinding plates. Grind
the m eat d ire c tly in to a w ell-chilled bowl se t over ice.
o rd e r to blend any seasonings, panadas, o r o th e r in g re d i­
ents th o ro u g h ly and evenly. M ore im p o rta n t, an adequate
m ixing pe rio d is crucial to th e de velopm e nt o f th e co rre c t
te x tu re . M ix in g can be done by be a tin g the fo rc e m e a t
w ith a ru b b e r spa tula o r w ooden spoon over an ice bath, in
a m ixer, o r in a fo o d processor. Care should be take n not
to overm ix, e sp ecially when you use a m achine. Depend­
ing on the am ount o f p ro d u ct, one to th re e m inutes a t the
lo w est speed should be s u ffic ie n t. The fo rce m e a t's color
and te x tu re w ill change s lig h tly when it is p ro p e rly mixed.
4. fold any garnish into theforcemeat
by hand, w o rk in g over an ice w a te r bath. See th e M ethod
in D e ta il f o r M ousseline Forcem eat, pages 9 9 0 to 992, fo r
m ore in fo rm a tio n on te s tin g and u tiliz in g fo rce m e a t.

B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
D basic formula
Mousseline Forcemeat
(1 lb/454 g)
1 lb/454 g meat, fish, or
other main ingredient
method at-a-glance
Cut th e m eat or o th e r main
in g re d ie n t in to a dice. Keep
it very cold.
2. Grind th e m eat to a paste
in a fo o d processor.
3. If the recipe requires
eggs, add th em and pulse
th e m achine on and o ff to
in co rp o ra te them in to the
meat.
i i a r ge egg or egg white
^
n>
QJ
1 tsp/3 g salt
^
8 f| OZ/ 2 40 mL heavy cream
4. W ith the m achine running,
add cold heavy cream in
a th in stream . Process
th e m ix tu re ju s t u n til the
cream is in co rp o ra ted .
5. Add the bloom ed g e la tin
or aspic, i f d esired or
necessary, in th e same
manner.
6 Push the fo rc e m e a t
th ro ug h a drum sieve.
c h a p t e r 30 » C H A R C U T E R I E A N D GARDE M A N G E R 989
 1. once the ingredients areproperly
ground, m ix o r process them , com b in ing th e ground m eat
w ith a secondary binder, if desired. A fo rc e m e a t is m ore
than sim p ly ground m eat. In o rd e r to produce th e desired
te x tu re , th e in g re d ie n ts m ust be m ixed long enough to
develop a good bind. This may be done by hand in a bowl
over an ice w a te r bath, w ith an e le c tric mixer, or in a fo o d
processor.

method in detail
2. process the mixture to a sm oo th con­
sisten cy. This encourages th e fo rc e m e a t to hold to g e th e r
w e ll when sliced. A dd in g re d ie n ts such as cold cream
g ra d u a lly as th e p ro cesso r runs f o r a sm oo th te x tu re and
to hold th e in g re d ie n ts to g e th e r a fte r cooking.

990 BREAKFAST AND GARDE MANGER

3. when the forcemeat has th e desired n
te x tu re , push it th ro u g h a drum sieve. Test f o r fla v o r and
consistency. S tra ig h t, c o u n try -s ty le , and g ra tin fo r c e ­
m eats are n o t ty p ic a lly p u t th ro u g h a sieve. However, a
3
rD
m ousseline fo rc e m e a t may be sieved to produce a very
p
fin e and d e lic a te te x tu re . Be sure th a t th e fo rc e m e a t is r"h
C /a
ve ry cold, and w o rk ra p id ly to avoid w a rm in g it.
Taste th e fo rc e m e a t f o r fla v o r and con sisten cy. Poach
a b ite -s iz e p o rtio n o f th e fo rc e m e a t so th a t it can be
eva lu ated (see Q uenelles, page 992). Be sure to ta s te the
fo rc e m e a t a t se rvin g te m p e ra tu re . If it is to be served
cold, le t th e sam ple cool c o m p le te ly b e fo re ta s tin g it.
M ake any necessary a d ju stm e n ts in th e fo rc e m e a t. If it
has a ru b b e ry o r to u g h con sisten cy, add heavy cream; if
it does n o t hold to g e th e r p ro p e rly, a d d itio n a l panada or
egg w h ite s may be necessary. A d ju s t th e seasoning and
fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts as needed. P e rfo rm a new ta s te te s t
a fte r each a d ju s tm e n t u n til you are s a tis fie d w ith the
fo rce m e a t.

4. garnish the forcemeat, if desired,

and use as a s tu ffin g o r fillin g , o r place it in to a prepared
m old and cook it. Fold garnishes such as p ista ch io nuts,
t ru ffle s , o r diced ham in to th e fo rc e m e a t by hand, w o rkin g
over an ice bath. Keep th e fo rc e m e a t ve ry cold u n til you
are ready to shape it. It m ay be spread, piped, o r spooned
in to o th e r fo o d s as a fillin g , o r used to f ill a prepared
m old.
The m old should be lined so th a t the pate or te rrin e
can be rem oved easily f o r s licin g in to servings. Cut sheets
o f lin e r large enough to hang over th e sides and ends o f the
mold. These w ill la te r be fo ld e d back over th e to p o f the
pate o r te rrin e to fo rm a cover. P la stic w rap is o fte n used,
b u t o th e r w ra p p e rs— tra d itio n a l and c o n te m p o ra ry — may
be used in a d d itio n to o r in place o f th e plastic. One o f
the m ore e lab orate garde m anger p re p a ra tio n s is pate en
croute. Lining a m old w ith p a s try is shown on page 1009.

c h a p t e r 30 » C H A R C U T E R I E A N D GARDE M A N G E R 99i
 5. smooth the forcemeat using an
o ffs e t p a le tte kn ife . Once th e te rrin e m old has been fille d
and th e to p is sm ooth, fo ld th e excess pan liner over the
fo rc e m e a t to seal th e te rrin e . Cook as d ire c te d in the
recipe.
A good fo rc e m e a t is w e ll seasoned and ta s te s p re ­
d o m in a n tly o f th e main m eat w ith a rich, pleasant fla v o r
and m o u th fe e l. The te x tu re should be fa irly sm oo th and
have a u n ifo rm co n siste n cy by typ e , and it should hold
to g e th e r w e ll when cut. Garnishes should com p le m e nt the
fla v o r o f th e fo rc e m e a t w ith o u t ove rw h elm ing it.
D epending on the g rin d in g and e m u ls ify in g m ethods
and th e in te nd ed use, th e fo rc e m e a t can have a sm ooth
co n siste n cy o r be heavily te x tu re d and coarse. M ousse-
line fo rc e m e a ts have a sm ooth, lig h t te x tu re th a t is not
a t all rubbery. A c o u n try -s ty le fo rc e m e a t is less re fin e d
in te x tu re and h e a rtie r in fla v o r than o th e r fo rce m e a ts. A
g ra tin fo rc e m e a t has q u a lity c h a ra c te ris tic s s im ila r to a
c o u n try -s ty le fo rce m e a t.

If

QUENELLES

There are many ways to prepare and use a force­ 3. Poach the quenelles in barely simmering liquid
meat. Depending on the desired result, quenelles (about iyo°F/yy°C). The cooking time will vary,
are an excellent way to make individual portions depending on the diameter of the quenelles. They
of forcemeat. Quenelles are poached dumplings should appear completely cooked through when
made from mousseline forcemeat. They may be broken open.
prepared to serve as an appetizer or as a garnish
for soups. They are also the best size to check for
flavor, texture, color, and consistency in a finished
forcemeat to safeguard against producing terrines
or pates that have poor quality.
1. Bring the poaching liquid to a simmer. The liquid
must not be at a rolling boil. This could cause the
quenelles to fall apart as they cook.

2. Shape the quenelles. There are many ways to shape

quenelles, one of which employs two spoons (see
photo). Other methods include using ladles or piping
the mixture through a plain-tipped pastry bag.
Scoop up an appropriate amount of the
forcemeat with one of the spoons, and use the
second spoon to smooth and shape the mixture.
Push the quenelle from the spoon into the
poaching medium.

992 B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
 charcuterie and garde manger recipes
Seafood and Salmon /. Remove the terrine from the water bath and allow
it to cool slightly. Weight it with a press plate and a
Terrine 2-lb/907-g weight, if desired. Refrigerate the terrine
Makes 3 lb/1.36 kg, 18 to 20 servings at least overnight or up to 2 to 3 days.
8 . Slice and serve the terrine, or wrap and refrigerate
SALMON MOUSSELINE for up to 4 days.
2 lb /9 0 7 g skinless salmon fillet
NOTE: This form ula w ill produce a good texture fo r terrines
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt and other items tha t w ill be sliced. For tim bales or similar
■ V 4 ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper applications tha t can be softer, the quantity o f cream can
be almost doubled.
2 egg whites

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL heavy cream

F lounder M ousseline: S ubstitute an equal amount
o f ground or diced flounder fo r the salmon in the
4 o z /1 13 g shelled crayfish tails mousseline.
4 o z/1 1 3 g diced salmon

4 o z/1 1 3 g diced scallops

2 tb sp /6 g minced tarragon

Blanched leek leaves, as needed

1 . Cut the salmon fillet into strips or cubes and season

with salt and pepper; chill to below 40°F/4°C. Grind
the salmon in a food processor or through the fine
plate of a meat grinder into a bowl set over an ice
water bath.
2 . Puree the salmon in a food processor until it is al­
most a smooth paste. Add the egg whites and pulse
until mixed well.
3 . Add the cream, 1 to 2 fl oz/30 to 60 mL at a time,
until it reaches the desired consistency (run the food
processor until the cream is just incorporated and
scrape down the sides of the bowl to blend evenly),
or gradually add the cream by hand over an ice water
bath. Do not overmix.
4 . Push the mousseline through a drum sieve.
5 . Test the mousseline by poaching a small amount in
simmering salted water. Adjust seasoning if neces­
sary before proceeding. (The mousseline is ready to
use now in other applications, if desired.) Fold in the
crayfish, salmon, scallops, and tarragon.
6 . Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and leek
leaves. Pack the garnished mousseline into the mold
and fold over the liners to completely seal the ter­
rine. Cover the terrine and poach in a i7O0F/77°C
water bath in a 300°F/i49°C oven to an internal tem­
perature of i 65°F/74°C, 60 to 70 minutes.

c h a p te r 30 » C H A R C U T E R IE A N D GARDE M A N G E R 993
 Pate Grand-Mere
Makes 3 lb/1.36 kg, 18 to 20 servings
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g chicken livers, sinews removed
1 tb sp /1 5 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
6 . Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and then the
ham slices, leaving an overhang. Sprinkle the ham
with black pepper, pack the forcemeat into the mold,
and fold over the liners. Cure the terrine overnight
in the refrigerator.

1 o z/2 8 g shallots, minced

7 . Cover the terrine with its lid and poach in a
170°F/77°C water bath in a 300°F/i49°C oven to an
2 tb sp /3 0 mL brandy
internal temperature of i65°F/74°C, 60 to 75
l '/ 2 tb sp /1 5 g salt minutes.
1 ts p /2 g coarsely ground black 8 . Remove the terrine from the water bath and allow
pepper, plus more as needed
it to cool to an internal temperature of 90°F/32CC
]A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground bay leaf to ioo °F/38°C. Apply a press plate and a 2-lb/907-g
V 2 tsp /1 g ground thyme weight and press overnight. Alternatively, pour off
the juices from the terrine, unwrap the layers of plas­
1 ts p /2 .7 5 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
tic on top, add enough aspic to coat and cover the
1 lb 1 o z/4 8 2 g pork butt, cubed
terrine, and refrigerate for 2 days.
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley
9 . The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap
2 '/2 o z/71 g crustless white bread, cut into small dice and refrigerate it for up to 10 days.
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL milk

2 eggs

3 f I o z/9 0 mL heavy cream

V* ts p /0.50 g ground white pepper

Pinch freshly ground nutmeg

8 thin slices ham ('/16 in/1.50 mm), or as needed

6 to 8 fl o z/1 8 0 to 2 4 0 mL Aspic
(page 995), melted (optional)

1 . Sear the livers briefly in a large saute pan with hot

oil; remove the livers from the pan and reserve un­
der refrigeration.
2 . Reduce the heat under the pan to low and saute the
shallots. Deglaze with the brandy and add the mix­
ture to the livers. Mix in the salt, black pepper, bay
leaf, thyme, TCM, and 1 tbsp/15 mL oil. Chill
thoroughly
3 . Grind the pork butt, liver mixture, and parsley
through the fine plate (Vs in/3 mm) of a meat grinder
into a mixer bowl over an ice bath. Chill again.
4 . Combine the bread and milk and let soak to form a
panada. Add the eggs, cream, white pepper, and nut­
meg. Using a paddle, mix with the ground meats on
medium speed for 1 minute, until homogeneous.
5 . Test the forcemeat by poaching a small amount in
simmering salted water. Adjust seasoning if neces­
sary before proceeding.

994 B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
 charcuterie and garde manger recipes
Aspic 1 . Mix the all ingredients for the clarification and
Makes 32 fl 02/960 m L blend with the stock. Mix well.
2 *. Bring the mixture to a slow simmer, stirring fre­
CLARIFICATION quently, until a raft forms.
12 o z/3 4 0 g ground beef 3 . Add the sachet depices and simmer until the ap­
3 o z/8 5 g tomato concasse (see page 636) propriate flavor and clarity are achieved, about 45
minutes. Baste the raft occasionally.
4 o z/1 1 3 g Mirepoix (page 243)
4 . Strain the consomme; season with salt and pepper.
3 egg whites, beaten 5 . Soften the gelatin in cold water, then melt over sim­
1 q t/9 6 0 mL stock (see Chefs Note) mering water. Add to the clarified stock. Cover and
refrigerate until needed. Warm as necessary for use.
'A standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)

'A tsp /1 g salt CHEF'S NOTE: Choose an appropriate stock, depending

upon the intended use. For example, if the aspic is to be
Ground white pepper, as needed
used to coat a seafood item, prepare a lobster stock and
Powdered gelatin (see table below), as needed use ground fish fo r the clarification.

Ratios fo r Aspic
RATIO PER G A L L O N RATIO PER P IN T GEL S TR E N G TH P O S S IB LE USES

2 o z /5 7 g lA o z /7 g D e lica te gel W hen slic in g is n o t re q u ire d . Ind ivid ual

p o rtio n o f m eat, veg etab le , o r fis h
bound by g e la tin . Jellied consom m es

4 o z /1 1 3 g V 2 o z /1 4 g C o atin g gel Edible ch a u d -fro id . C o atin g in d ivid u a l

ite m s

6 to 8 o z /1 7 0 to 2 2 7 g 1 o z /2 8 g S licea ble gel W hen p ro d u c t is to be sliced. F illin g pate

en cro u te , head cheese

10 to 12 o z /2 8 4 to lV 4 tO 1 V 2 0Z /3 5 Firm gel C o a tin g p la tte rs w ith u n d e rla ym e n t fo r

340 g to 43 g fo o d show o r c o m p e titio n

1 6 o z /4 5 4 g 2 o z /5 7 g M ousse s tre n g th W hen p ro d u c t m u st re ta in shape a fte r

unm olding. P ro d u ctio n o f a m ousse

c h a p te r 30 » C H A R C U T E R IE A N D GARDE M A N G E R 995
Chicken and Crayfish 7 . Let the terrine rest at least overnight and up to 3
days in the refrigerator, weighted if desired with a
Terrine press plate and a 2-lb/907-g weight.

Makes 2 lb/907 g, 10 to 12 servings 8 . The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap
and refrigerate it for up to 7 days.
MOUSSELINE
NOTE: If desired, line the mold with plastic wrap and
1 lb /4 5 4 g ground chicken breast then thinly sliced ham before packing the mold with
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt forcemeat.

'/> tsp /1 g ground black pepper

2 egg whites
Shellfish Essence
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Shellfish Essence (recipe follows), cold
Makes 6 fl 02/180 mL
2 fl o z/6 0 mL heavy cream, cold
1 tb s p /1 5 mL vegetable oil
GARNISH
1 lb /4 5 4 g crayfish, shrimp, or lobster shells
8 o z/2 2 7 g cooked, shelled, and deveined crayfish tails
2 medium shallots, minced
2 chipotles in adobo, seeded and minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
4 o z/1 1 3 g stemmed shiitake mushrooms,
sliced, sauteed, and chilled 12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL heavy cream

2 tb sp /6 g roughly chopped cilantro 3 bay leaves

1 tb sp /3 g chopped dill 2 ts p /4 g poultry seasoning

1 tb sp /9 g Chili Powder (page 368 or purchased)

1 . Puree the chicken, salt, and pepper in a food proces­ 2 tb s p /3 0 mL glace de volaille or glace de viande
sor until smooth. Add the egg whites and pulse until
combined. Add the shellfish essence and cream with
1 . In a medium sautoir, heat the oil over high heat.
the machine running, and pulse just to incorporate.
Add the shells and saute until they turn bright red.
Pass through a drum sieve.
Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the shallots and
2 .. Test the forcemeat by poaching a small amount in garlic, and saute until they are aromatic.
simmering salted water. Adjust seasoning if neces­
2 . Add the cream, bay leaves, poultry seasoning, and
sary before proceeding.
chili powder. Reduce the mixture to half of its origi­
3 . Fold in the crayfish tails, chipotles, mushrooms, ci­ nal volume. Add the glace.
lantro, and dill, working over an ice water bath.
3 . Strain through cheesecloth, squeezing to extract all
4 . Oil a terrine mold and line it with plastic wrap, leav­ liquid. Chill to below 40°F/4°C.
ing an overhang of at least 4 in/10 cm on all sides.
4 , The essence is ready to use now, or to be stored un­
Pack the forcemeat into the lined mold, making sure
der refrigeration.
to remove any air pockets. Fold the plastic wrap liner
over the forcemeat to completely encase the terrine;
cover.
5 . Poach the terrine in a 170°F/77°C water bath in a
300°F/i49°C oven to an internal temperature of
i65°F/74°C, 60 to 75 minutes.
6 . Remove the terrine from the water bath and allow it
to cool slightly.

B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Country-Style Terrine 2 . To make the panada, combine the cream, eggs,
bread, brandy, salt, and pepper in a small bowl;
(Pate de Campagne) whisk together until smooth, and then add to the

Makes 3 lb/1.36 kg, 18 to 20 servings

ground meats. Using a paddle, mix on low speed for
1 minute, until homogeneous. Increase the speed to
1 lb /4 5 4 g veal shoulder, cubed medium and mix until the forcemeat feels sticky to

10 o z/2 8 4 g pork butt, cubed

the touch.

10 o z/2 8 4 g fatback, cubed

SEASONINGS
4 o z/1 1 3 g shallot, finely chopped
2 tb sp /2 0 g salt
2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley
1 tb sp /6 g Pate Spice (page 1011)
V2 tsp /1 g ground white pepper, plus more as needed
V b ts p /0.30 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
2 garlic cloves, minced, sauteed, and cooled
PANADA
9 f I o z/2 7 0 mL heavy cream
2 eggs
V a cup/60 mL Pullman loaf
2 tb sp /3 0 mL brandy
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
GARNISH
6 o z/1 7 0 g diced smoked ham
3 . Test the forcemeat and adjust seasoning if necessary
before proceeding.
4 . Combine all of the garnish ingredients and fold into
the forcemeat.
5 . Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and then the
ham slices, leaving an overhang. Sprinkle the ham
with white pepper, pack the forcemeat into the
mold, and fold over the liners. Cure the terrine over­
night in the refrigerator.
6 . Cover the terrine and poach in a i70°F/77°C water
bath in a 300°F/i49°C oven to an internal tempera­
ture of 150°F/66°C, 60 to 75 minutes.
7 . Remove the terrine from the water bath and allow
it to cool to an internal temperature of 90°F/32°C
to ioo°F/38°C. Apply a press plate and a 2-lb/907-g
weight and press overnight. Alternatively, pour off
the juices from the terrine, unwrap the layers of
plastic on top, add enough aspic to coat, cover the
terrine, and refrigerate for 2 days.
8 . The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap
and refrigerate it for up to 10 days.

6 o z/1 7 0 g diced fatback

4 o z/1 1 3 g toasted and chopped almonds

3 o z/8 5 g dried raisins, quartered

and plumped in white wine

3 tb s p /1 8 g chopped parsley

2 tb sp /6 g chives, cut into V H n /l- c m lengths

8 thin slices ham ('/i6 in /1.50 mm), or as needed

6 to 8 o z/1 8 0 to 24 0 mL Aspic (page 995),

melted (optional)

T . Toss the veal, pork, and fatback with all the season­
ings. Grind through the coarse plate (Vs in/9 mm)
of a meat grinder. Reserve half of the mixture, then
grind the remainder through the fine plate (Vs in i
3 mm) of a meat grinder into a mixer bowl over an
ice bath.

BREAKFAST AND GARDE M ANGER

 charcuterie and garde manger recipes
Pork Tenderloin garlic, ginger, soy sauce, and sherry and mix until
evenly blended.
Roulade 7 . Add the cream and pulse until just incorporated
Makes 2 lb 8 02/1.13 kg, 16 to 18 servings (scrape down the sides of the bowl to blend even-
ly), or gradually add it by hand over an ice water
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL M eat Brine (recipe follows)
bath. Push the forcemeat through a drum sieve.
3 star anise pods, crushed
8 . Fold the mushrooms into the forcemeat by hand
2 o z/5 7 g roughly chopped ginger over an ice water bath.
2 ts p /4 g Szechwan peppercorns, crushed 9 . Test the forcemeat by poaching a small amount in
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g pork tenderloin, trimmed simmering salted water. Adjust seasoning if neces­
sary before proceeding.
MOUSSELINE
1 0 . Cut a large rectangle of plastic wrap. Spread half of
1 lb 3 o z/5 3 9 g lean pork trim or the mousseline on the plastic. Place the tenderloin
boneless chicken breast
in the middle and spread the other half of the force­
lt b s p /lO g s a lt meat evenly over the tenderloin. Roll tightly into a
2'/z o z/71 g egg whites, cold cylinder and secure the ends with twine.

2 ts p /6 g minced garlic 1 1 . Poach the roulade at 170°F/77°C in simmer­

ing water to cover to an internal temperature of
2 ts p /6 g minced ginger
i6o°F/7i°C.
r /4 ts p /6 .2 5 mL dark soy sauce
1 2 . Remove the roulade from the water and cool to
2 tb sp /3 0 mL sherry, cold
below 40°F/4°C.
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL heavy cream, cold
1 3 . Unwrap the roulade. Cut a fresh piece of plastic
6 o z/1 7 0 g thinly sliced mushrooms wrap, brush with the glace, and scatter with the
sesame seeds and parsley. Top with the cooled rou­
2 tb sp /3 0 mL glace de volaille or viande, warm lade and rewrap tightly. Refrigerate the roulade for
V 2 o z/2 8 g toasted sesame seeds at least 24 hours or up to 2 days before slicing and
serving.
2 o z/5 7 g chopped parsley

1 . Mix together the meat brine, star anise, ginger, and Meat Brine
peppercorns in a small sauce pot and infuse over Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
low heat for about 5 minutes. Chill the infused
brine over an ice water bath. 1 2 o z /3 4 0 g s a lt

2 . Cover the pork with the brine mixture and use 6 o z/1 7 0 g dextrose
small plates to keep it completely submerged. Re­ 2 V 2 o z/71 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
frigerate for 12 hours.
1 g al/3 .8 4 L water
3 . Rinse the tenderloin and dry well. Reserve under
refrigeration.
Dissolve the salt, dextrose, and TCM in the water.
4 . To make the mousseline, cut the pork trim into Use as needed.
strips or dice and season with the salt. Chill to be­
low 40°F/4°C.
5 . Grind the pork trim in a food processor or through
the fine plate (Vs in/3 mm) of a meat grinder into a
bowl set over an ice water bath.
6 . Puree the ground pork in a food processor until it
is almost a smooth paste. Pulse in the egg whites,

ch a p te r 30 » C H A R C U T E R IE A N D GARDE M A N G E R 999
 Chicken Galantine 1 . Remove the skin from the chicken, keeping it
intact. Remove the wing tips and bone out the
Makes 4 lb/1.81 kg, 28 to 30 servings
chicken, keeping the breast whole. Separate the
One 3-lb /1.36-kg chicken tenderloins from the breast and reserve the breast.

Salt and ground black pepper, as needed 2 . Cut the chicken tenderloins into cubes (V2 to %
in/i to 2 cm). Season with salt, black pepper, and
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Madeira
Madeira. Marinate the tenderloin meat under re­
PANADA frigeration for at least 3 hours.
2 eggs 3 . Butterfly the chicken breast meat and pound it
3 tb s p /4 5 m L brandy Vi in/3 mm thick. Place on a sheet pan lined with
plastic wrap, cover with plastic, and refrigerate.
1 ts p /2 g Pate Spice (page 1011)
4 . To make the panada, mix the eggs with the brandy,
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour
pate spice, flour, salt, and white pepper. Temper
1 tb sp /1 0 g salt
the egg mixture with hot cream. Add the cream to
Va ts p /0.50 g ground white pepper the egg mixture and cook over low heat until thick­
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream, hot ened. Chill.
5 . Weigh the leg and thigh meat from the chicken.
1 lb /4 5 4 g pork butt, cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes, cold Add an equal amount of pork butt, or enough for
4 o z/1 1 3 g fresh ham or cooked tongue, approximately 2 lb/907 g of meat. Grind the chick­
cut into '/t-in /e-m m cubes en and pork twice, using the fine plate (Vs in/3 mm)
3 tb sp /2 5 g chopped black truffles of a meat grinder, into a bowl over an ice water
bath.
4 o z/1 1 3 g pistachios, blanched
6 . Add the panada to the ground meat mixture. Blend
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g salt
well. Fold in the marinated chicken and Madeira,
V2 tsp /1 g coarsely ground black pepper the ham, truffles, and pistachios. Mix well.
Chicken Broth (page 263) or fortified stock, as needed

Cut the skin free from the jo in t near the If necessary, use a knife to remove the Roll the chicken breast and skin around
leg o f the chicken. Gently remove the last o f the skin from the wing tip s of the forcem eat.
skin from the chicken w ith your hands, the chicken.
being careful not to puncture the skin.

lO O O BREAKFAST AND GARDE M ANGER


7 . Lay out the reserved skin on rinsed cheesecloth
and lay the pounded chicken breast on top. Season
with salt and black pepper. Add the forcemeat and
roll the galantine securely.
8. Poach the galantine in a narrow, deep vessel in
enough broth to cover at 170°F/77°C, to an internal
temperature of i65°F/74°C, 60 to 70 minutes.
9 . Transfer the galantine and poaching liquid to a
storage container. Let it cool to room temperature.
Remove the galantine from the stock, and wrap it
in plastic wrap to form a tighter, rounder roll; chill
at least 12 hours.
10 . To serve the galantine, unwrap, remove the cheese­
cloth, and slice it.
NOTES: Classically, galantines are wrapped in cheesecloth
and poached in fo rtifie d chicken stock.
If desired, add sliced, sauteed shiitake mushrooms when
fo ld in g in the garnish in step 6.
Foie Gras Terrine
Makes 2 lb/907 g, 10 to 12 servings
2 lb 12 o z/1.25 kg foie gras, grade A
V A o z/3 5 g salt
2 ts p /4 g ground white pepper
1 tb sp /1 5g su g a r
V 2 tsp /1 g ground ginger
V* ts p /0.75 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL white wine or
Sauternes, Armagnac, or Cognac
1 . Clean the livers, remove all veins, and dry well.
Combine 1 oz/28 g of the salt, 1 tsp/2 g of the pepper,
the sugar, ginger, TCM, and wine in medium bowl.
Refrigerate the livers in the mixture overnight.
2 . Line a 2-lb/c)07-g terrine mold with plastic wrap.
3 . Place the foie gras on a cutting board, separate the
lobes, and select large pieces that will fit snugly into
the mold, slicing the liver if necessary. Place them
in the mold so that the smooth sides of the foie gras
pieces form the exterior of the terrine; season as
needed with the remaining salt and pepper. Fill
c h a p te r 30 » C H A R C U T E R IE A N D GARDE M A N G E R
charcuterie and garde manger recipes
the mold up to the inner lip and press the pieces
down tightly to remove any air pockets. Cover the
terrine mold.
4 . Poach the terrine in a hot water bath, maintaining
it at a constant i6o°F/7i°C, for 45 to 50 minutes.
The oven temperature may need to be adjusted to
keep the water at a constant temperature. If it gets
too hot, add cold water immediately to lower the
temperature. Foie gras has the best texture and
flavor when cooked to an internal temperature of
98°F/37°C. (However, be sure to check with your
local and state health authorities for any regulatory
differences.)
5 . Remove the terrine from the water bath and rest it
for 2 hours at room temperature. Pour off the fat.
Cover the terrine with a press plate and top with a 1
to 2-lb/454 to 9 0 7 -g weight. Refrigerate the terrine
for at least 24 hours and up to 48 hours to mellow
and mature.
6 . Remove the plastic wrap and carefully remove the
congealed fat. Tightly rewrap the terrine in fresh
plastic wrap. Refrigerate until ready to slice and
serve the terrine, or refrigerate for up to 3 days.
NOTES: To determ ine the amount o f foie gras needed to
f ill any size terrine mold, simply measure the volume o f
water the terrine can hold. The number o f fluid ounces/
m illilite rs o f volume w ill correlate to the number of
ounces/grams o f weight o f foie gras necessary to fill the
mold.
For easier service, slice the terrine w ith the plastic wrap
on. Remove the plastic a fte r the slices have been plated.
A warm beveled knife works best.
Save the fa t removed in step 5 to use to saute
vegetables or potatoes.
If desired, add sliced, sauteed shiitake mushrooms when
fo ld in g in the garnish in step 6.
Foie Gras Roulade: Prepare the foie gras as directed fo r
the terrine. Arrange the marinated fo ie gras on a large
sheet o f plastic wrap. Wrap tig h tly around the foie gras
to form a roulade. If desired, insert whole tru ffle s into
the fo ie gras lobes before rolling the roulade. (Truffles
must be cleaned and poached prior to use as an internal
garnish. If using canned tru ffle s, this has already been
done.) Poach in a 160°F/71°C water bath to an internal
tem perature o f 11 0°F/43°C. Remove from the water,
cool, and rewrap, tightening slightly. Refrigerate the
roulade fo r at least 24 hours before slicing.
1001
 Venison Terrine
Makes 3 lb/1.36 kg, 18 to 20 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g venison shoulder or leg meat
1 lb /4 5 4 g fatback
2 fl o z/6 0 mL red wine
V 2 tsp /1 g ground cloves
1 tb sp /6 g crushed black peppercorns
1 ts p /2 .7 5 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
1 o z/2 8 g minced onions, sauteed and cooled
1 o z/2 8 g salt
2 ts p /4 g ground black pepper
1 o z/2 8 g dried cepes or morels, ground to a powder
3 eggs
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL heavy cream
1 tb sp /3 g chopped tarragon
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley
GARNISH
2 o z/5 7 g golden raisins, plumped
in 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL brandy
4 o z/1 1 3 g mushrooms, diced, sauteed, and cooled
8 thin ham slices ('/i6 in /1.50 mm), or as needed
1 . Dice the venison and fatback into i-in/3-cm cubes.
Combine them with the wine, cloves, peppercorns,
TCM, onions, salt, pepper, and dried cepes and
marinate in the refrigerator overnight.
2 . Prepare a straight forcemeat by grinding the mari­
nated venison and fatback first through a coarse
grinding plate (% in/9 mm), rechilling, and grinding
a second time through a fine grinding plate (Vs in/3
mm) into a chilled mixer bowl. Using a paddle, mix
in the eggs, cream, tarragon, and parsley on medium
speed for 1 minute, or until homogeneous. Fold in
the raisins and mushrooms.
3 . Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and the ham,
leaving an overhang. Pack the forcemeat into the ter­
rine mold and fold over the ham and plastic. Cover
the terrine with its lid.
4 . Poach the terrine in a i7O0F/77°C water bath in a
300°F/i49°C oven to an internal temperature of
i50°F/66°C, 60 to 70 minutes.
1002 BREAKFAST AND GARDE MANGER
5 . Remove the terrine from the water bath and al­
low it to cool to an internal temperature of 90° to
ioo°F/32° to 38°C. If desired, weight it with a press
plate and a 2-lb/907-g weight. Let the terrine rest in
the refrigerator overnight.
6 . The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap
and refrigerate it for up to 5 days.
Duck Terrine with
Pistachios and Dried
Cherries
Makes 3 lb/1.36 kg, 18 to 20 servings
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g duck meat, trimmed
and cubed (from a 4 to 5 -lb /1 .8 1 to
2.2 7-kg bird), breast meat reserved
8 o z/2 2 7 g fatback
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
2 tb sp /6 g chopped sage
1 ts p /2 g ground white pepper
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley
'/t ts p /0.75 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
4 o z /1 13 g ham, cut into small dice
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
3 o z/8 5 g roasted and peeled pistachios
2 '/t o z/71 g dried cherries
8 thin ham slices [Vi6 in /1.50 mm), or as needed
1 . Combine 1 lb/454 g ° f the duck meat, reserving the
breast meat for garnish, with the fatback, salt, sage,
pepper, parsley, and TCM in a chilled medium bowl.
Grind through the medium plate ( lA in/6 mm) and
then the fine plate (Vs in/3 mm) of a meat grinder.
2 . Sear the diced duck breast meat and ham in the oil
and let them cool.
3 . Test the forcemeat by poaching a small amount in
simmering salted water in a small saute pan. Adjust
seasoning if necessary before proceeding.
4 . Fold the seared duck and ham, pistachios, and cherries
into the forcemeat, working over an ice water bath.
 Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and the ham slic­
es, leaving an overhang, then pack with the forcemeat.
Fold the ham liner and then the plastic over the terrine
and cover the mold. Poach in a 170°F/77°C water bath
in a 300°F/i49°C oven to an internal temperature of
i65°F/74°C, 50 to 60 minutes.
Let the terrine rest for 1 hour in the refrigerator.
Weight it with a press plate and a 2-lb/907-g weight
overnight or up to 3 days in the refrigerator.
The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap
and refrigerate it for up to 5 days.

wT

Duck Terrine w ith Pistachios and

Dried Cherries
 Chicken Liver Pate Duck and Smoked
Makes 2 lb/907 g, 10 to 12 servings
Ham Terrine
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g chicken livers, Makes 3 lb/1.36 kg, 18 to 20 servings
cleaned, sinews removed

16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL milk, or as needed for soaking 1 lb 3 o z/5 3 9 g boneless skinless

duck leg and thigh meat
1 o z/2 8 g salt
9 3A o z/2 7 6 g fatback
'A ts p /0.75 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
VA o z/3 5 g butter
2 o z/5 7 g minced shallot
VA skinless duck breasts, cut into V H n /l-c m dice
2 garlic cloves, minced
15 o z/4 2 5 g smoked ham, cut into ' / 2-in /l-c m dice
8 o z/2 2 7 g fatback, cut into medium dice
1 o z/2 8 g minced shallot
1 ts p /2 g ground white pepper
VA ts p /3 .7 5 g minced garlic
V2 tsp /1 g ground allspice
2/2 fl o z/7 5 mL port
V2 tsp /1 g dry mustard
VA tb sp /8 g all-purpose flour
V/ 2 o z/4 3 g fresh white bread crumbs
'A ts p /0 .7 5 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
2 tb sp /3 0 mL sherry
V2 o z/1 4 g salt
3 o z/8 5 g bread flour
le g g
2 ts p /9.50 g powdered gelatin
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL heavy cream
3 eggs
VA ts p /2 .50 g coarsely ground black pepper
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL heavy cream
3A ts p /1.50 g poultry seasoning

6 to 8 fl o z/1 8 0 to 2 4 0 mL Aspic
1 . Soak the livers in the milk with 1V2 tsp/5 g ° f the salt
(page 995) melted (optional)
and the TCM for 12 to 24 hours in a covered, me­
dium bowl.
1 . Cut the leg and thigh meat and the fatback into
2 . Drain the livers well and pat dry with paper towels.
V2-in/i-cm dice. Reserve under refrigeration.
3 . Puree the livers, shallots, garlic, fatback, pepper, all­
2 . To prepare the garnish, melt the butter in a saute
spice, mustard, bread crumbs, sherry, flour, gelatin,
pan. Brown the duck breast and ham. Remove and
and eggs in a blender to a smooth, loose paste.
reserve under refrigeration. Sweat the shallots and
4 . Pass the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a garlic in the same pan. Add the port and reduce to a
stainless-steel bowl and stir in the cream. Refrigerate thick syrup. Add to the seared meat and chill well.
the mixture for 2 hours.
3 . Combine the leg meat mixture with the flour, TCM,
5 . Pour the mixture into a terrine mold lined with and salt; toss to coat evenly. Progressively grind from
plastic wrap, cover, and poach in a 170°F/77°C water the coarse (% in/9 mm) through the fine plate (Vs
bath in a 300°F/i49°C oven to an internal tempera­ in/3 m m ) of a meat grinder into a mixer bowl over
ture of i65°F/74°C, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove the an ice water bath.
terrine from the oven and allow it to cool at room
4 . Add the egg and heavy cream to the ground meats.
temperature for 30 minutes.
Using a paddle, mix on medium speed for 1 minute,
6 . Weight with a press plate and a i-lb/454-g weight and until homogeneous. Add the black pepper and poul­
refrigerate overnight before unmolding and slicing. try seasoning; mix to incorporate.

NOTE: For Chicken Liver Pate en Croute, see the note fo r 5 . Test the forcemeat and adjust seasoning if necessary
Seafood Pate en Croute on page 1008. before proceeding.
6 . Fold the garnish mixture into the forcemeat by hand
over an ice water bath.

1004 B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
/. Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap, leaving an
overhang. Pack the forcemeat into the mold, and
fold over the liner. Cover the terrine and bake in a
170°F/77°C water bath in a 300°F/i49°C oven to an
internal temperature of i 65°F/74°C, 60 to 75 minutes.
8 . Remove the terrine from the water bath and allow
it to cool to an internal temperature of 90°F/32°C
to ioo °F/38°C. Apply a press plate and a 2-lb/907-g
weight and press overnight. Alternatively, pour off
the juices from the terrine, unwrap the layers of plas­
tic on top, add enough aspic to coat and cover the
terrine, and refrigerate for 2 days.
The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap
and refrigerate it for up to 5 days.

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Duck and Smoked Ham Terrine, Chicken Galantine (page 1000),

Chicken Liver Pate en Croute, and Crayfish and Chicken Terrine (page 996)

c h a p te r 30 » C H A R C U T E R IE A N D GARDE M A N G E R 1005
Pate Dough 3 . Add the eggs, vinegar, and 4 to 5 fl oz/i2o to 150 mL
Makes 2 lb 12 o z /1.25 kg
of milk. Mix on speed 1 until it just forms into a ball.
The dough should be moist yet dry; if it does not hold
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g bread flour, sifted together and is not moist enough, then add more
milk. If the ball is formed and moist but dry, then mix
V/2 o z/4 3 g nonfat dry milk
on speed 2 for 3 to 4 minutes to develop the gluten.
2'A ts p /6 .75 g baking powder
4 . Remove the dough from the mixer and knead by
V2 o z/1 4 g salt
hand until smooth, tucking in all the ends as you
3Vi o z/9 9 g shortening would to shape a ball of bread. Square it off.
2'A o z/71 g unsalted butter 5 . Wrap in plastic wrap and rest for a minimum of 30
2 medium eggs minutes (for best results, overnight) in the refrigera­
tor before rolling and cutting the dough to line the
1 tb s p /1 5 mL white vinegar
terrine molds.
8 to 10 fl o z/2 4 0 to 300 mL milk, or as needed
NOTE: Pate dough is generally used to line a rectangular pate

1 . Place the flour, dry milk, baking powder, salt, short­
ening, and butter in a food processor and pulse until
the dough is a fine meal.
2 . Place the dough in a 20-qt electric mixer with a
paddle.
mold; therefore, it should be shaped into an appropriate-
size rectangle prior to refrigeration.
S a ffro n Pate Dough: Infuse 2 ts p /1 .6 0 g saffron in 5 f l
oz/150 mL warm water. Replace 5 f l oz/150 mL o f the
milk w ith the saffron water. If desired, add 2 tb s p /6 g
each chopped dill and chives in step 2.

B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R

Use the pate en croute mold as a tem plate to measure and
cut the dough so th a t it w ill snugly line the inside o f the
mold. Cut a rectangle th a t w ill cover the bottom and 2 long
sides o f the mold w ith enough excess to cover the to p of
charcuterie and garde manger recipes
the pate en croute. Cut 2 sm aller rectangles to cover the
ends o f the mold. Be sure to grease the mold before assem­
bling the pate en croute.

Gently line the pate en croute mold w ith the dough. Allow the Use the sm aller rectangles o f dough to line the ends o f the
excess dough to hang over the sides o f the mold. mold. Press the seams o f the dough tog ether firm ly to cre­
ate a tig h t seal.

c h a p te r 30 » C H A R C U T E R IE A N D GARDE M A N G E R 1007
 Seafood Pate en
Croute
Makes 2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg, 18 to 20 servings
6 o z /1 7 0 g shrimp
6 o z/1 7 0 g peeled crayfish tails
2 tb sp /6 g minced chives
3 tb sp /9 g basil chiffonade
1 o z/2 8 g small-dice truffles (optional)
12 o z/3 4 0 g Salmon Mousseline (page 993)
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g Saffron Pate Dough (page 1006)
Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed
Dry nori sheets, as needed (optional)
6 to 8 fl o z/1 8 0 to 2 4 0 mL Aspic (page 995)
1 . Peel and devein the shrimp and pat the crayfish tails
dry. Cut them into dice or julienne, if desired. Chill
to below 40°F/4°C.
2 . Working over an ice water bath, fold the shrimp,
crayfish, chives, basil, and truffles, if using, into the
mousseline by hand.
3 . Roll the dough out into a rectangle about Vs in/3 mm
thick. Cut pieces to line the bottom and sides of a
hinged pate mold (see photos); the dough should
overhang on all sides. Egg wash the inside of the dough
liner or add a second liner of nori sheets, if desired.
1008 B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
4 . Pack the forcemeat into the lined mold. Fold the
dough over, trim, and seal to completely encase the
pate.
5 . Cut a cap piece and lay it over the pate, tucking the
sides down into the mold. Cut and reinforce vent
holes in the cap piece and brush the surface with
egg wash. Roll a tube of aluminum foil (known as a
chimney) to fit into the vent holes and keep them
from closing during baking.
6 . Place one piece of aluminum foil over the top of the
pate in a “tented” manner to avoid direct contact
with the dough and bake at 450°F/232°C for 15 to 20
minutes. Remove the foil tent, reduce the heat to
350°F/i77°C, and finish baking to an interned tem­
perature of 155°F/68°C, about 50 minutes.
7 . Remove the pate from the oven and let it cool to 90°
to ioo°F/32° to 38°C. Warm the aspic to no°F/43°C
and ladle it through a funnel into the pate through
the chimneys. Remove and discard the chimneys.
8 . Refrigerate the pate for at least 24 hours before slic­
ing and serving.
NOTE: When preparing the Salmon Mousselines on page 993,
replace 12 oz/340 g o f the salmon with diced shrimp, if
desired.
For Chicken Liver Pate en Croute, line the dough with
ham and f ill the mold w ith Chicken Liver Pate (page
1004). Fold in garnishes such as cooked cubed chicken,
chopped herbs, or plumped, dried fru its as desired.

Use round cutters to create a vent hole in the top o f the
pate en croute to prevent the top from cracking. Reinforce
the vent hole and use aluminum fo il to create a chimney to
prevent the dough from closing in on itse lf.
charcuterie and garde manger recipes
The finished pate en croute should be golden brown on
the edges and should not have any cracks in the top o f the
dough.

c h a p t e r 30 » C H A R C U T E R I E A N D GARDE M A N G E R 1009
 Vegetable Terrine 7 . Cover the terrine and poach it in a 170°F/77°C wa­
ter bath in a 300°F/i49°C oven to an internal tem­
with Goat Cheese perature of i45°F/63°C, about 60 minutes.

Makes 3 lb/1.36 kg, 18 to 20 servings 8 . Remove the terrine from the water bath and allow
it to cool slightly.
VEGETABLES 9 . Refrigerate the terrine at least overnight and up to
2 lb /9 0 7 g zucchini 3 days, weighted if desired with a press plate and a

2 lb /9 0 7 g yellow squash 2-lb/go7-g weight.

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g eggplant 1 0 . The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap
and refrigerate it for up to 3 days.
2 lb /9 0 7 g tomatoes

2 medium portobello mushrooms

MARINADE

2 tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil

1 tb sp /1 5 mL Dijon mustard

1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley

1 tb sp /3 g minced chives

2 ts p /6 g chopped rosemary

2 ts p /6 g anchovy paste or olive paste (optional)

2 ts p /6 g honey

2 ts p /6 g salt

V i tsp /1 g ground white pepper

2 garlic cloves, minced, sauteed, and cooled

8 o z/2 2 7 g fresh goat cheese

2 eggs

1 . Cut all the vegetables lengthwise into slices Vs in/3

mm thick.
2 . Combine all the marinade ingredients in a large
hotel pan, add the vegetables, and marinate the
vegetables for 1 hour.
3 . Remove the vegetables from the marinade and
place them in a single layer on sheet pans lined
with oiled parchment paper.
4 . Dry the vegetables in a 200°F/93°C oven until dry
but not brittle, about 1 hour. Remove from the oven
and cool to room temperature.
5 . Mix the goat cheese with the eggs.
6 . Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap, leaving an
overhang, and assemble the terrine by alternating
layers of vegetables and the cheese mixture until
the terrine is filled. Fold over the liner.

IOIO B RE A K F A S T A N D GA R D E M A N G E R
 charcuterie and garde manger recipes
Pate Spice Gravlax
Makes about 14 oz/397 g Makes 20 servings

3 o z/8 5 g coriander seeds 41/io z /1 2 0 g s a lt

3 o z /8 5 g cloves 7 o z/1 9 8 g dark brown sugar

l 3/ t o z/5 0 g dried thyme 1 tb sp /6 g cracked black peppercorns

V A o z/5 0 g dried basil 3 o z/8 5 g chopped dill

I V 2 o z/4 3 g white peppercorns 2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice

V A o z/4 3 g grated nutmeg l '/ 2 tb sp /2 2.50 mL brandy

1 o z/2 8 g dried cepes (optional) 3 lb /1.36 kg salmon fillet

3/ t o z /2 1 g ground mace

’/ 2 0 z / 1 4 g bay leaves
1 . Combine the salt, sugar, peppercorns, and dill in a
small bowl to make the dry cure.

Combine all the ingredients including the dried
cepes, if using, and grind them using a mortar and
pestle or a spice grinder. Store any unused spice
blend in an airtight container in a cool, dry place.
2 . Combine the lemon juice and brandy in another
small bowl. Place the salmon on a piece of cheese­
cloth, skin side down, and brush this mixture on top.
Pack the dry cure evenly on the salmon.
3 . Wrap the salmon tightly in the cheesecloth. Place
the wrapped salmon in a hotel pan, skin side down,
top with a second pan, and set a weight in the sec­
ond pan.
4 . Let the salmon marinate in the refrigerator for 2 to 3
days. The salmon should be fairly firm in its thickest
area when fully cured.
5 . Unwrap the salmon and scrape off the cure. Gently
rinse the salmon under cold water briefly and imme­
diately pat dry.
6 . Slice the salmon thinly on the bias to serve.

Chapter 30 » C H A R C U T E R I E A N D GARDE M A N G E R 1011

baking and pastry
mise en Diace
To be successful in the baking and pastry arts, it is important to have
a basic understanding of how baking ingredients function and how
they react to each other. Knowledge of these principles and
processes will not only help you to follow any formula and p ro d u c^B
better quality products, but will also aid in developing formulas
of your own creation.
 the functions of baking ingredients
The basic in g re d ie n ts used in baking ty p ic a lly f u lf ill
m ore than one fu n c tio n in th e fin is h e d pro du ct. Eggs, fo r
exam ple, can a ct as a s ta b ilize r, leavener, a n d /o r th ic k ­
ener. U n de rsta nding how in g re d ie n ts fu n c tio n w ill give
a che f the a b ility to cre a te balanced baking fo rm u la s
and to understand w h a t w e n t w ro n g when som e th in g
d o e sn 't w ork.
S T A B ILIZ E R S
A s ta b iliz e r is any in g re d ie n t th a t helps to develop the
solid s tru c tu re , or "fram ew ork," o f a fin is h e d pro du ct.
It does th is in one o f tw o ways, e ith e r by to u g h e n in g or
tig h te n in g a dough or by th ic k e n in g a m ixtu re . F lour and
eggs are exam ples o f in g re d ie n ts th a t lend s tru c tu re
(and n u tritio n a l value) to a fin is h e d pro du ct.
Flour acts as a binding and ab so rb in g agent. It is the
g lu te n (the p ro te in com p on ent in flo u r) th a t builds s tru c ­
tu re and s tre n g th in baked goods, whereas th e starch
pre se n t in th e flo u r makes a use ful thickener. When
starch granules suspended in w a te r are heated, th e y
begin to absorb liquid and swell, causing an increase in
the v is c o s ity o f th e m ixtu re . This rea ction , known as ge ­
lation, allow s starche s to be used as th ic k e n in g agents.
D iffe re n t typ e s o f flo u rs have d iffe re n t g lu te n -to -
sta rch ratio s, which w ill cre a te v a s tly d iffe re n t re s u lts in
th e te x tu re , appearance, and fla v o r o f th e fin a l p ro d u ct
when used in th e same fo rm u la .
Eggs lend a d d itio n a l s ta b ility du rin g baking. They in ­
flue nce the te x tu re and grain as w ell, and by fa c ilita tin g
the in c o rp o ra tio n and d is trib u tio n o f air, th e y p ro m o te
an even-grained and fin e te x tu re . Eggs act to thicke n
th ro u g h th e coa gu latio n o f p ro te in s. As th e ir p ro te in s
begin to coagulate, liquid is tra p p e d in the n e tw o rk o f
set p ro te in s, re s u ltin g in a sm ooth, ra th e r th ic k te x tu re .
This is known as a p a r t i a l coagula tio n, w here th e p ro ­
te in s hold m oistu re; i f the m ix tu re were cooked or baked
fu rth e r, th e p ro te in s w ould fu lly coa gu late and expel
water, causing th e p ro d u c t to curdle.
Eggs also have leavening power. As eggs (whole,
yolks, or w h ite s) are w hipped, th e y tra p air th a t expands
when heated, re s u ltin g in a la rge r and lig h te r pro du ct.
Several o th e r ty p ic a l s ta b iliz e r/th ic k e n e rs are:
a r r o w r o o t a n d c o r n s ta r c h
These are g e ne rally p re fe ra b le fo r th ic k e n in g sauces,
puddings, and fillin g s w here a tra n s lu c e n t e ffe c t is de ­
sired. To d ilu te the se th icke n e rs b e fo re in co rp o ra tin g
1016 B A K IN G A N D PA ST RY
th e m w ith o th e r in g re d ie n ts, m ix the m w ith a sm all
am ount o f cool liquid. Tapioca sta rch is also com m only
used to th icke n pie fillin g s .
g e la t in
G elatin is used to produce light, de lica te fo a m s th a t are
firm ly set, such as Bavarian cream, mousse, and s ta b i­
lized w h ipp ed cream . Such fo a m s re ta in the shape o f a
m old even a fte r unm olding and can be sliced. A vailable in
bo th po w d er and sheets, g e la tin m ust f ir s t be so fte n e d
or bloom ed in a cool liquid. Once th e g e la tin has ab­
sorbed th e liquid, it is g e n tly heated to m e lt the crystals,
e ith e r by adding th e s o fte n e d g e la tin to a h o t m ixture ,
such as a h o t cu sta rd sauce, or by g e n tly he atin g the
g e la tin over sim m e rin g w a te r.
p e c t in
P ectin is a ca rb o h yd ra te derived fro m th e cell w alls
o f c e rta in fru its . Some com m on sources o f pe ctin are
apples, cran be rries, and curra nts. It requires th e c o rre c t
balance o f sugar and acid to gel.
LIQ U E FIE R S
L iq u e f iers help to loosen o r te n d e rize a dough or b a t­
ter. W ater, m ilk, and o th e r liquids, fa ts , and sugar act as
liq u e f iers.
A ltho ug h sugar has a te n d e n cy to tig h te n up a m ix ­
tu re when it is f ir s t in co rp o ra te d , th ro u g h its in te ra c tio n
w ith o th e r in g re d ie n ts and the heat o f baking, it u lti­
m a te ly a cts to loosen or liq u e fy a b a tte r or dough.
W a te r acts to d ilu te o r liq u e fy w a te r-s o lu b le in g re ­
die n ts such as sugar and sa lt. It also fa c ilita te s the even
d is trib u tio n o f sugar, salt, and ye a st in a dough if these
in g re d ie n ts are m ixed th o ro u g h ly w ith th e w a te r b e fore
in tro d u c in g th e rem a ining in g re d ie n ts in th e form ula.
W a te r also acts to leaven, as it changes to steam and
expands.
M ilk p e rfo rm s many o f the same fu n c tio n s as water,
b u t because o f its a d d itio n a l com p on ents (fa t, sugar,
m inerals, and pro te in ), it serves a num ber o f o th e r fu n c ­
tio n s and adds fla v o r as w ell. As th e sugar (la cto se) in
m ilk caram elizes, it gives a rich co lo r to th e product's
surface, and it can also aid in d e velopm e nt o f a firm
crust. The la c tic acid in m ilk has a tig h te n in g e ffe c t on
the p ro te in s in flo u r, w hich serves to increase s ta b ility ,
re s u ltin g in a p ro d u c t w ith a fin e grain and te x tu re .

If th e to ta l am o un t o f f a t added to a dough o r b a t­
te r equals no m ore than 3 p e rc e n t o f the w e ig h t o f the
fin is h e d dough or pro du ct, it acts to increase the elas­
t ic it y o f the p ro te in s in th e flo u r, th e re b y helping the
p ro d u c t expand du rin g baking. In baking, fa ts and oils
are also c la s s ifie d as s h o rte n in g agents, a te rm derived
fro m th e ir a b ility to s p lit th e long, e la s tic g lu te n strands
th a t can toughen flo u r-b a s e d doughs and b a tte rs . This
te n d e riz in g e ffe c t ren de rs th e strand s m ore su sce p tib le
to bre aking (shortening), re s u ltin g in a m ore te n d e r and
less dense crumb.
LEAVEN ER S (B IO L O G IC A L, C H EM IC AL,
M E C H A N IC A L)
To leaven is to raise o r to make lighter. There are several
ways to accom plish th is in baking: w ith yea sts (also
known as b io lo g ica l leaveners), w ith chem ical agents
such as baking pow der or baking soda, and th ro u g h
steam , also known as m echanical leavening. Each m e th ­
od is be st su ite d to s p e c ific a p p lica tio n s and all produce
very d iffe re n t re su lts. D iffe re n t leavening m etho ds may
be used alone o r in co n ju n ctio n w ith one an o th e r to yield
p a rtic u la r e ffe c ts .
the functions of baking ingredients
To s u b s titu te a ctive dry yea st f o r com pressed yeast,
use 40 p e rc e n t o f th e w e ig h t o f com pressed yeast
called f o r in th e recipe. To s u b s titu te in s ta n t yeast, use
33 p e rc e n t o f th e w eight. Sourdough s ta rte r is a yeast-
based leavener. In th is case, th e n a tu ra lly occu rring
(w ild) ye a st is allow ed to fe rm e n t in a flo u r-w a te r m ix­
tu re over a p e rio d o f days or weeks. W ith regular fe e d ­
ings o f a d d itio n a l flo u r and w a te r, th e gro w in g s ta rte r
is s tre n g th e n e d and m aintained f o r regular use in the
p ro d u c tio n o f bread and o th e r baked ite m s in d e fin ite ly .
c h e m ic a l le a v e n e rs
W ith baking soda and baking powder, an alkaline in g re d i­
e n t (usually sodium bica rb o n a te ) in te ra c ts w ith an acid
alrea dy p re s e n t in baking powder, or in an in g re d ie n t
such as b u tte rm ilk , sour cream , yo g u rt, or chocolate, to
leaven th e p ro d u ct. (Baking pow der is a com b in ation o f
an alkali, an acid, and a starch.) The a lka li and acid p ro ­
duce carbon d io xid e when com bined in the presence o f
liquid. W hen he ated du rin g baking, th e carbon dioxide
expands and gives th e baked good its c h a ra cte ristic
te x tu re , known as crumb. This process o f expansion hap­
pens rap id ly; hence, m any ite m s prepared w ith chem ical
leaveners are called "q uick breads.”

b io lo g ic a l le a v e n e rs D o u b le -a ctin g baking pow der is so called because

a f ir s t actio n occurs in th e presence o f m o istu re in the
O rganic leaveners are based on yeast, a livin g org an­
b a tte r and a second a ctio n is in itia te d by th e presence
ism th a t fe e d s on sugars and produces alcohol and
o f heat. T hat is, th e baking pow der re a cts once when it is
carbon dioxide, th e gas th a t lig h te n s a dough to give it
m ixed w ith th e b a tte r's liquids and again when the b a t­
the p ro p e r te x tu re . U nlike chem ical leaveners, organic
te r is placed in a h o t oven.
leaveners ta ke a s u b s ta n tia l am ount o f tim e to do th e ir
jo b . The ye a st has to gro w and rep rod uce s u ffic ie n tly m e c h a n ic a l le a v e n e rs
to f ill the dough w ith air p o ckets. For th is to ta ke place,
Steam , w hich is produced when liquids in a b a tte r or
the te m p e ra tu re m u st be c o n tro lle d ca re fu lly. Yeast w ill
dough are heated, is a m echanical leavener th a t is som e­
n o t fu n c tio n w e ll betw een 50° to 6 0 °F /1 0 ° to 16°C, and
tim e s re fe rre d to as a physical leavener. Steam is the
above 1 4 0 °F /6 0 °C th e ye a st is d e stro yed .
leavening ag en t in sponge cakes and so u ffle s . It also
Fresh o r com pressed ye a st m ust be k e p t r e frig e r­
plays a v ita l ro le in p u ff p a stry, croissan ts, and Danish
ated (id e a lly a t 40 °F /4 °C ) to m aintain its v ia b ility . It may
p a stry, w here th e stea m is tra p p e d betw een layers o f
be held fo r seven to ten days, or it may be fro z e n fo r
dough, causing the m to sep ara te and rise. When air is
lo ng er storage. This ty p e o f ye a st com es in cake fo rm
in c o rp o ra te d in to a b a tte r th ro u g h e ith e r w h ipp in g or
and is usually m easured by w e ig h t ra th e r than volume.
cream ing an in g re d ie n t b e fo re it is in co rp o ra te d in to the
A c tiv e d ry y e a st and in s ta n t ye a st are tw o typ e s o f
fin a l b a tte r, he at causes th e air p o cke ts in th e b a tte r or
gra nu lar yeast. They should be ke p t re frig e ra te d a fte r
dough to expand.
opening and m ust be k e p t d ry u n til use. A c tiv e dry or
in s ta n t y e a st in an unopened package is in a c o m p le te ly
d o rm a n t stage and may be s to re d a t room te m p e ra tu re ,
unopened, f o r up to one year.

c h a p te r 31 » B A K IN G M ISE EN PLACE 1017

 preparation of baking ingredients
SCALING
The m o st accurate w ay to m easure in g re d ie n ts is to
weigh them . Even liquid in g re d ie n ts are o fte n , though
n o t always, weighed. Various ty p e s o f scales are used in
the bakeshop, includ in g balance-beam , spring, and e lec­
tro n ic scales. O th e r m easuring to o ls , includ in g volum e
m easures such as p ints, qu arts, and m easuring spoons,
are also necessary and com m only used.
It is im p o rta n t to p ro p e rly scale o u t each in g re d ie n t
to prepare a baked item . It is eq ua lly im p o rta n t to scale
o u t th e fin is h e d dough or b a tte r to ensure th a t th e p ro p ­
er and co n s is te n t am ount is used fo r th e pan size, mold,
o r in d ivid u a l p o rtio n . This n o t only c o n trib u te s to the
u n ifo rm ity o f pro du cts, it also decreases th e p o s s ib ility
o f uneven ris in g or bro w n ing caused by to o much o r to o
litt le dough or b a tte r.
cooking sugar
When you cook sugar, all you r e q u ip m e n t m ust be clean
and fre e o f any grease. The sugar m ust also be fre e o f
im p u ritie s such as flo u r o r o th e r in g re d ie n ts. Sugar is
o fte n cooked to very high te m p e ra tu re s and im p u ritie s
are like ly to burn o r cause re c ry s ta lliz a tio n b e fo re the
sugar reaches th e desired te m p e ra tu re . A copper or o th ­
er h e a vy-b o tto m e d saucepan should be used to ensure
con stant, even heat.
Sugar may be cooked by one o f tw o m ethods: dry or
w et. The d ry m etho d is used exclusively f o r caram eliza-
tio n . The w e t m ethod is g e ne rally used when sugar m ust
be cooked to a sp e c ific stage or te m p e ra tu re . The w e t
m ethod may be used to caram elize sugar, b u t th e n u tty,
ro a ste d fla v o r c h a ra c te ris tic o f good caram el is b e tte r
achieved throu gh th e dry m ethod.
When cooking o r cara m elizin g sugar by any m ethod,
you can add a sm all am ount o f an acid (ty p ic a lly lem on
juice, a t a p p ro x im a te ly V \ ts p /1 .2 5 mL f o r 8 o z /2 2 7 g
sugar) to help p re ve n t c ry s ta lliz a tio n du rin g cooking.
A fe w basic rules apply when coo kin g sugar:
» Use a heavy-gauge p o t to p re v e n t b u rn in g th e sugar
and a candy th e rm o m e te r f o r accuracy.
» Add an acid or an in v e rt sugar such as corn syrup to
p re v e n t sugar c ry s ta ls fro m fo rm in g .
1018 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
S IFTIN G DRY IN G R ED IEN TS
Dry in g re d ie n ts used f o r m o st baked goods should be
s ifte d b e fo re th e y are in c o rp o ra te d in to the dough or
b a tte r. Dry in g re d ie n ts are s ifte d p rim a rily fo r three
reasons:
» To blend
» To rem ove lum ps o r im p u ritie s
» To a e rate
S iftin g aerates flo u r and c o n fe c tio n e rs ' sugar, re ­
m oving lum ps and filte r in g o u t any im p u ritie s . Chemical
leaveners such as baking pow der and some fla v o rin g
in g re d ie n ts (cocoa powder, fo r exam ple) are m ore evenly
d is trib u te d a fte r s iftin g . S iftin g should take place a fte r
th e in g re d ie n ts have been p ro p e rly scaled.
» Brush down th e sides o f th e p o t w ith a m o is t p a s try
brush; th is w ill also help p re v e n t c ry s ta lliz a tio n .
» H eat m ilk o r o th e r liq u id s b e fo re ad ding th e m to
caram el.
» Add all liq u id s c a re fu lly , aw ay fro m heat. The hot
caram el w ill fo a m and s p la tte r when a liq u id is
added.
C A R A M E L IZ IN G SUGAR B Y T H E DRY METHOD
Put a sm all am ount o f th e sugar in a pre he ated pan over
m edium heat and allow it to m elt. Then add the rem a in­
ing sugar in sm all in crem en ts, allow in g each a d d itio n o f
sugar to fu lly m e lt b e fo re adding th e next. Cook to the
desired color.
W hen cara m elizin g sugar, reg ard less o f th e cooking
m ethod, s to p th e coo kin g process by shocking the pan
in an ice w a te r bath ju s t b e fo re it reaches the desired
color. Sugar re ta in s heat and can becom e to o dark or
burn if th e cooking process is n o t a rre ste d.
H eat any liquids to be added to th e caram el and add
the m c a re fu lly. C aram elized sugar is very h o t and w ill
s p la tte r when a co ld e r in g re d ie n t is in tro du ced.

COOKING SUGAR TO STAGES
For the w e t m ethod, com bine th e sugar in a saucepan
w ith ab ou t 30 p e rce n t o f its w e ig h t in w ater. Place the
pan over high heat and s tir c o n s ta n tly u n til the m ix tu re
com es to a bo il to ensure all th e sugar is m elted. Once
it com es to a boil, s to p s tirr in g and skim o f f any im p u ri­
ties. Use a p a s try brush to wash down th e sides o f the
pan w ith cool w a te r, to p re ve n t c ry s ta ls fro m fo rm in g .
C ry s ta lliz a tio n o f th e coo kin g sugar occurs re a d ily on
the side o f th e pan, w here c ry s ta ls fro m eva p o ra tin g
liq u id are d e p o site d . These crysta ls, in turn, can easily
a ct to "seed" th e re s t o f th e sugar in th e pan, causing it
to begin to becom e lum py and granular. Repeat w ash­
ing down th e sides as o fte n as necessary to keep them
clean, u n til th e sugar has reached th e desired te m p e ra ­
tu re , con sisten cy, a n d /o r color.
As th e sugar con tinu es to cook to sp e c ific te m ­
pe rature s, th e sugar syrup changes te x tu re . Each o f the
fo llo w in g stages has d iffe re n t a p p lica tio n s in baking,
pa stry, and candy m aking:
2 3 4 °F /1 1 2 °C Thread
2 3 8 °F /1 1 4 °C S o ft ball
whipped cream
Heavy cream can be w h ipp ed to s o ft, m edium , or firm
peaks fo r use in sw e et and savory a p p lica tio n s. Cream
to be w hipped m ust be w e ll chilled, as should th e bowl
and whip. W o rkin g w ith cold cream and cold eq uipm en t
helps to produce a m ore sta b le fo a m th a t is ea sie r to
fo ld in to o th e r p ro d u cts. W hipped cream may be sw e e t­
ened w ith c o n fe c tio n e rs ' sugar and fla v o re d w ith vanilla
to produce C h a n tilly Cream (page 1023).
Begin by w h ip p in g th e cream a t a m edium and
ste a d y speed, w o rk in g e ith e r by hand or w ith an e le c tric
m ixer. Once th e cream s ta rts to thicke n, increase the
speed and con tinu e to w hip u n til th e desired th ickn e ss
and s tiffn e s s is reached. The variou s stages o f w hipped
cream are as fo llo w s :
s o ft p e a k
The cream fo rm s peaks th a t fa ll g e n tly to one side when
the b e a te r is lifte d . S o ft peak cream is ty p ic a lly used as
a sauce to pool under o r spoon over de sserts, or as the
the tunctions ot baking ingredients
2 4 8 °F /1 2 0 °C Firm ball
2 6 0 °F /1 2 7 °C Hard ball
2 7 5 °F /1 3 5 °C S o ft crack
3 1 0 °F /1 5 4 °C H ard crack
S IM P LE SY R U P
Sim ple syrups are an indispensable preparation in every
p a stry kitchen. They are a m ixture o f w a te r and sugar
heated only enough to allow the sugar to dissolve com ­
pletely. Various liqueurs, such as orange liqueur, brandy,
rum, or c o ffe e -fla v o re d liqueur, may be added to the syrup
fo r fla v o r a fte r it has cooled. If desired, fla vo rin g ingre­
dien ts such as a sachet o f cinnamon and clove, a pinch o f
sa ffro n , or a s p lit vanilla bean may be steeped in the liquid.
Add the fla v o rin g to th e m ixture while it is hot, cover the
pan, and le t it stand fo r 15 to 20 m inutes. Strain to remove
any particles, if desired. Syrups o f this typ e are used to
add flavor, m oisture, and sweetness to cakes before fillin g
and finishing, to act as a sim ple wash fo r p u ff pa stry as it
bakes, and to serve as a poaching medium fo r fru its .
lig h te n e r f o r sw e e t and savory mousses w ith a sm ooth,
cream y consistency.
m e d iu m p e a k
As th e cream passes th ro u g h the s o ft peak stage, it be­
com es s t if f e r and holds peaks fo r a longer tim e and w ith
less d ro o p in g when th e b e a te rs are lifte d , but the peaks
should n o t stand up p e rfe c tly stra ig h t. Sugar is best
added a t th is stage. Cream w h ipp ed to m edium peaks
is o fte n used to cover cakes and to rte s or as a garnish
(e ith e r a do llo p dro pp ed fro m a spoon or a p u ff piped
th ro u g h a p a s try bag).
s tiff p eak
When cream is be aten to s t i f f peaks, th e fo a m loses
som e o f its fle x ib ility . As cream reaches the s t if f peak
stage, it w ill lose som e o f its gloss and ve lv e ty te x tu re .
S t if f peak cream is used to to p pies and ta rts , as w ell as
to make b u tte rc re a m .
c h a p te r 31 » B A K IN G M IS E EN PLACE 1019
 whipping egg whites and making meringues
There are several uses in th e kitch e n and bakeshop fo r
w hipped egg w h ites. They are th e leavener f o r s o u ffle s
and sponge cakes and th e y can be used to cre a te the
lig h t te x tu re in som e m ousses and Bavarians. M eringues
are made by in c o rp o ra tin g enough sugar to bo th s ta b i­
lize and sw eeten the foam .
Egg w h ite s m ust be co m p le te ly fre e o f any tra c e o f
yolk in ord e r to w hip succe ssfully. W h ite s w hip to the
g re a te s t volum e when th e y are a t room te m p e ra tu re ;
w h ite s take n d ire c tly fro m re frig e ra tio n can be te m ­
pered by w a rm in g them over a bow l o f h o t w ater.
The bowl and w hip m ust also be c o m p le te ly fre e o f
any grease or fa t. Some chefs w ipe the bowl and whip
w ith w h ite vinegar, fo llo w e d by a rinse w ith very hot w a­
ter, to rem ove all traces o f grease. The bow l should be
large enough to hold th e beaten egg w h ites, which can
expand eigh t to ten tim e s in volume. If you are using an
acid in the m eringue, it should be added b e fo re whipping.
Begin w h ip p in g at a low to m edium speed, ju s t u n til
the w h ite s s ta rt to loosen and becom e foa m y. Increase
the speed and continue to w h ip u n til the w h ite s hold
s o ft or m edium peaks (see W hipped Cream, page 1019).
If egg w h ite s are overbeaten, th e y becom e dull, grainy,
and dry looking. O verbeaten egg w h ite s collapse qu ickly
and sep ara te as th e y are fo ld e d in to a base or b a tte r,
ad verse ly a ffe c tin g the te x tu re o f the fin is h e d item .
B eat egg w h ite s only if you are ready to use them
im m e d ia te ly. For exam ple, th e w h ite s f o r a s o u ffle are
beaten, added to the base, and im m e d ia te ly baked fo r
th e be st volume.
SEPARATINGWHOLEEGGS
Eggs separate most easily when they are
taken directly from refrigeration. In addi­
tion to the cold eggs, you should have four
well-cleaned containers on hand for sepa­
rating eggs: one to catch the white as each
egg is separated plus three more to sepa­
rately hold all the clean whites, all whites
with some yolk, and all yolks.
Crack the eggshell and pull it apart
into two halves. Pour the egg from one half
1020 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
A dd in g sugar to beaten egg w h ite s makes the foam
m ore stab le. These egg w h ite fo a m s are known as m e­
ringues. M eringu es d iffe r acco rding to how the sugar is
added to th e w h ite s.
To prepare a m eringue, f ir s t separate th e eggs ca re ­
fu lly and be sure th a t th e w h ites, th e bowl, and th e whip
are all very clean. D iffe re n t typ e s o f m eringues are
made in th e fo llo w in g ways:
c o m m o n m e r in g u e
The com m on m eringue is th e le a st sta b le o f all o f the
m eringues. Beat th e egg w h ite s u n til fro th y , then s ta rt
to add th e sugar in a gradual stream w hile w hipping. If
th e am ount o f sugar is less than or equal to th e w hites,
th e sugar may be added all a t once. Once all th e sugar
is added, w hip th e m eringue to s o ft, medium, or s t if f
peaks, as re q u ire d by th e recipe. This ty p e o f m eringue
can be used to leaven angel fo o d cakes, sponge cakes,
and s o u ffle s ; to p a pie; pipe and bake in to shells; o r cre ­
a te b o rd e rs and o th e r de cora tions. Because th e w h ite s
in a com m on m eringue are n o t heated to a safe te m p e ra ­
tu re , th is s ty le o f m eringue should be used fo r a p p lica ­
tio n s w here it w ill be cooked or baked fu rth e r.
s w is s m e r in g u e
To prepare a Swiss meringue, com bine the w hites and
sugar in a m ixer bowl and warm the m ixture over sim m er­
ing heat un til it reaches 140°F /60°C (depending on the
intended use), s tirrin g fre q u e n tly to be sure th a t the sugar
is com p le te ly dissolved in to the egg whites. The amount
o f sugar is alm ost g re a te r than the am ount o f egg whites.
into the other, allowing the white to fall
into one of the containers. When all of the
white has separated from the yolk, drop
the yolk into its container. Examine the
white to be sure that it has no bits of yolk.
If it is clean, drop it into the container that
will hold only clean whites. Otherwise, put
it into the container for whites to use for
other egg preparations.

S o ft peak m eringue b a rely holds its
shape. The peaks tip over when the
w hip is lifte d .
M eringue w h ipp ed to m edium peak
becom es s t if f e r and re ta in s its shape
f o r a longer tim e when th e b e a te r is
lifte d fro m the bowl.
whipping egg whites and making meringues
S t if f peak m eringue w ill hold a peak
th a t com es to a sharp point.

Once the egg w h ites are warm ed, tra n s fe r the bowl to a
m ixer and whip on medium speed u n til the m eringue has
s o ft, medium, or s t if f peaks, as required.
Swiss m eringue can be used f o r th e same p re p a ra ­
tio n s as com m on m eringue, b u t it may also be used to
lighte n m ousses and creams, f ill cakes, add a de cora tive
piped b o rd e r to cakes o r o th e r pre p a ra tio n s, and to
make b u tte rcre a m .
i t a lia n m e r in g u e
Ita lia n m eringue is produced by w h ip p in g a h o t sugar
syrup in to egg w h ite s. This m eringue re q u ire s m ore
c a re fu l tim in g than a com m on o r Swiss m eringue, and
th e end p ro d u c t has a fin e r grain and is much m ore
s ta b le . Prepare a sugar syrup w ith th re e -q u a rte rs o f
th e sugar using th e w e t coo kin g m ethod and heat it to
2 4 0 °F /1 1 6 °C . When th e syrup reaches 2 3 0 °F /1 1 0 °C ,
b e at th e egg w h ite s to s o ft peaks w ith the rem aining
sugar. Once th e syrup is p ro p e rly cooked, pour it gradu­
ally in to th e w h ite s w hile th e m ixe r is running. Continue
to b e a t th e m eringue u n til it holds s o ft, medium , or s t if f
peaks, as required.
Ita lia n m eringue can be used to prepare baked
shells, and cookies. Because it is heated to a high
enough te m p e ra tu re , it can be le ft uncooked fo r use as a
fillin g o r th e base f o r Ita lia n B u tte rc re a m (page 1125).

choosing and preparing pans

P icking a pan o f th e c o rre c t shape and size is esse ntia l
to ensuring th e rig h t te x tu re and appearance. If a pan is
to o large, th e cake o r bread may n o t rise p ro p e rly du rin g
baking and th e edges may becom e overbaked. On the
o th e r hand, if a pan is to o sm all, th e ite m m ay n o t bake
th ro u g h and th e appearance w ill s u ffe r.
PAN PREPARATION
th is cake is p a rtia lly d e pendent on th e b a tte r being able
Pans are lined w ith pa rchm e nt paper to ease the process
o f rem oving a baked pro d u ct. For b a tte rs th a t m ust be
spread ra th e r than poured, it is im p o rta n t to apply a thin
film o f b u tte r or o th e r fa t to th e pan b e fo re placing the
p a rchm e nt in th e base o f th e pan. The f a t w ill keep the
paper s ta tio n a ry w h ile th e b a tte r is spread. The sides o f
a pan should also be greased and lig h tly flo u re d . Pans
used f o r sponge cakes should be lined w ith parchm ent,
b u t th e sides o f th e pans should rem ain untre ated . Angel
fo o d cakes req uire no pan prepa ration . The fu ll rise o f
to cling to th e side o f th e pan as it rises during baking.

ch a p te r 31 » B A K IN G M IS E EN PLACE 1021
 using pastry bags and tips
P astry bags and a sso rte d tip s have m any uses in the
kitche n beyond d e c o ra tin g cakes. They are also used
to add fillin g s to o th e r fo o d s, p o rtio n o u t b a tte rs such
as pate a choux o r duchesse p o ta to e s b e fo re baking,
f ill p a s try shells f o r eclairs o r p ro fite ro le s , and apply
sm all am ounts o f garnish o r fin is h in g re d ie n ts on hors
d'oeuvre and canapes.
E xtru d in g a fro s tin g , b a tte r, dough, o r o th e r s o ft
m ix tu re th ro u g h a p a s try bag is re fe rre d to as piping. It
ta ke s p ra c tic e to develop th e sure m ovem ents used to
cre a te de co ra tive e ffe c ts .
To f ill a p a s try bag, se le c t th e de sire d t ip and po ­
s itio n it secu rely in th e p a s try bag’s opening or in a
coupler. Fold down th e bag's to p to cre a te a c u ff, then
Borders piped using a star tip
1022 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
tra n s fe r th e p re p a ra tio n to th e bag w ith a spatula or
spoon. T w ist th e bag to com press th e m ixtu re and to
release any a ir p o cke ts b e fo re beginning to pipe. Use
you r do m in a n t hand to hold the bag and squeeze o u t the
co n te n ts o f th e bag. Use your o th e r hand to guide and
stea dy th e tip . Release pressure on the bag as you li f t it
away cleanly to avoid m aking ta ils .
Clean reusable p a s try bags and tip s th o ro u g h ly im ­
m e d ia te ly a fte r use by w ashing the m c a re fu lly in warm
soapy w a te r and rin sin g th o ro u g h ly. Be sure to tu rn the
bag inside o u t to clean th e in te rio r b e fo re storage. In
many kitch e n s and bakeshops, single-use p a s try bags
are used f o r sa n ita tio n .
Borders piped using a stra ig h t tip

Egg Wash
Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL
5 eggs
5 o z /1 4 2 g m ilk
Pinch salt
Combine the eggs, milk, and salt using a wire whip.
Use as needed.
NOTE; There are in fin ite variations possible to best suit
d iffe re n t uses and tastes. For example, water or cream
can be substituted fo r some or all o f the milk. Egg yolks
can be substituted fo r all or a portion o f the whole eggs.
Sugar can also be added.
EGGWASH
Egg washes are an important component in
many baked goods. They have a considerable
effect on the finished appearance and may
also affect the flavor, mouthfeel, and texture
of the item.
An egg wash may include whole eggs,
only yolks, or only whites, which may be
blended with water, milk, or cream.
A suggested ratio is 2 tbsp/30 mL water
or milk to 1 whole egg. Be sure to beat the
mixture thoroughly to break up the egg
whites.
baking mise en place recipes
Simple Syrup
Makes 32 fl 02/960 mL
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
1 lb /4 5 4 g water
Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan and stir
to ensure all the sugar is moistened. Bring to a boil,
stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cool the syrup to room
temperature. It is ready to use now or may be refrig­
erated for later use.
NOTE: Simple syrup may be made w ith varying ratios of
sugar to water, depending on the desired use and the
sweetness and flavor o f the cake or pastry to which it is
to be applied.
C o ffe e Sim ple Syrup: A fte r the sugar and water comes to a
boil, add 1 o z /2 8 g g ro u n d coffee. Remove the pan from
the heat, cover, and allow to steep fo r 2 0 minutes. Strain
to remove the grounds.
Liqu eur-F la vore d Sim ple Syrup: To flavor a simple syrup
w ith a liqueur such as framboise, kirsch, or Kahlua, add 4
f I o z/1 20 mL o f the desired liqueur to the syrup a fte r it
has cooled completely.
Chantilly Cream/
Whipped Cream fo r
Garnish
Makes lib 2 0Z/510 g
1 lb /4 5 4 mL heavy cream
2 o z/5 7 g confectioners’ sugar
1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract
1 . Whip the cream to soft peaks.
2 . Add the sugar and vanilla and whip to desired peak.
Chapter 31 » B A K IN G M IS E EN PLACE 1023
 Common Meringue
Makes l lb 8 oz/68o g
8 egg whites (about 8 o z/2 2 7 mL)
Pinch salt
1 ts p /5 mL vanilla extract
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
1 . Place the egg whites, salt, and vanilla in the bowl
of an electric mixer speed fitted with a wire whip.
Whip on medium speed until frothy.
2 . Increase the speed to high and gradually add the
sugar while continuing to whip the egg whites. Whip
to the desired consistency.
NOTE: This may also be made by hand w ith a balloon whisk.
Swiss Meringue
Makes l lb 5 oz/595 g
8 egg whites (about 8 o z/2 2 7 g)
1 ts p /5 mL vanilla extract
Pinch salt
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
1 . Place the egg whites, vanilla, salt, and sugar in the
bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a wire whip and
stir until the ingredients are thoroughly combined.
2 . Place the bowl over a pot of barely simmering water
and slowly stir the mixture until it reaches between
ii5°and i65°F/46°and 74°C, depending on use.
3 . Transfer the bowl to the mixer and whip on high
speed until the meringue reaches the desired consis­
tency.
1024 BAKING AND PASTRY
Italian Meringue
Makes 1 lb 8 oz/68o g
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
4 o z/1 1 3 g water
8 egg whites (about 8 o z/2 27 g)
Pinch salt
1 ts p /5 mL vanilla extract
1 . Combine 12 oz/340 g of the sugar with the water in
a heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil over
medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
Continue cooking, without stirring, until the mix­
ture reaches the soft ball stage (240°F/ii6°C).
2 . Meanwhile, place the egg whites, salt, and vanilla in
the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a wire whip.
3 . When the sugar syrup has reached approximately
230°F/ii0°C, whip the whites on medium speed
until frothy. Gradually add the remaining 4 oz/113 g
sugar and beat the meringue to medium peaks.
4 . When the sugar syrup reaches 24O0F/ii6°C, add it to
the meringue in a slow, steady stream while whip­
ping on medium speed. Whip on high speed to stiff
peaks. Continue to beat on medium speed until com­
pletely cool.
yeast breads
Breads and rolls made from yeast-raised doughs and batters have a

distinct aroma and flavor, produced by the biological process of the

yeast’s fermentation. The effects vary from the simplicity of a hearth

baked pizza to a delicate egg- and butter-enriched brioche.

CHAPTER 3 2
 Yeast d o u g h s m a y be d iv id e d in t o tw o c a t e g o r ie s : lean d o u g h s a nd e n r ic h e d d o u g h s .

Lean d o u g h s can be pr o d u c e d w it h o n ly f lo u r , y e a s t , s a l t , a n d w a t e r ; in fact , th o se are

T H E IN G R E D IE N T S FOR A C L A S S IC F R E N C H B A G U E T T E . O T H E R IN G R E D IE N T S , S U C H AS S P IC E S , HERBS,

S P E C I A L F L O U R S , A N D / O R D R I E D N U T S A N D F R U I T S , C A N BE A D D E D TO V A R Y T H I S D O U G H , B U T T H E Y

W IL L NOT GREA TLY C H A N G E T H E BASIC T E X T U R E .

lean and enriched

doughs
Lean doughs contain only re la tiv e ly sm all am ounts o f sugar and fa t, if any. Breads made
fro m lean dough ten d to have a chew ier te x tu re , m ore bite , and a crisp crust. Hard rolls,
French and Ita lia n -s ty le breads, and w hole w heat, rye, and pum pernickel breads are con­
sidered lean.
An enriched dough is produced by th e a d d itio n o f in g re d ie n ts such as sugar o r syrup,
b u tte r o r oil, w hole eggs o r egg yolks, and m ilk o r cream. Included in th is ca te g o ry are s o ft
rolls, brioche, and challah. When fa ts are in tro du ced, th e y change th e dough's te x tu re as
w e ll as the way in which it behaves durin g m ixing, kneading, shaping, and baking. An en­
riched dough is usually s o fte r, and th e fin ish e d p ro d u c t has a m ore te n d e r b ite a fte r baking
than ite m s fro m lean doughs. They may be golden in co lo r because o f th e use o f eggs and
b u tte r, and the cru s t is s o ft ra th e r than crisp.
W heat flo u r (all-pu rpo se o r bread flo u r, f o r instance) is th e basis o f yea st-ra ise d
doughs. W heat flo u rs contain a high percentage o f pro te in , which gives a good te x tu re to
lean doughs. A p o rtio n o f
the w h ea t flo u r called fo r
in a recipe may be replaced
m eth o d at-a-glan ce w ith o th e r flo u rs such as
rye, pum pernickel, o r oat.

P l a c e t h e w a r m li q u i d in 6. L e t i t ri s e . C onsult in dividu al fo rm u la s

a b ow l. a n d s c a le th e flo u rc a re fu lly .
Fold o ve r t h e d ou gh and
It is ge ne rally n o t necessary
2. A d d t h e r e m a i n i n g punch it down.
to s if t th e flo u r f o r bread.
in g re d ie n ts .
8. T ra n s fe r it to a flo u re d Yeast is a b iolo gical
3. M i x t h e d o u g h u n t i l it w orkbench. leavener th a t m ust be alive
s t a r t s t o "c a tc h." in o rd e r to be e ffe c tiv e .
9. S h a p e a n d p l a c e t h e
B ring th e yeast to room
4. K n e a d t h e d o u g h u n t i l it d o u g h in p an s .
te m p e ra tu re if necessary
is s m o o t h a n d s p r i n g y .
10. L e t i t ris e . b e fo re p re pa ring th e dough.
5. T r a n s f e r t h e d o u g h t o W ater, m ilk, o r o th e r liquids
11. Bake.
a n o i l e d b o w l. used in a bread fo rm u la
should fa ll w ith in a te m -

1026 BAKING AND PASTRY

 lean and enriched doughs
p e ra tu re range o f 68 ° to 7 6 °F /2 0 ° to 24°C f o r com pressed (fresh) yeast. The ideal w a te r
te m p e ra tu re f o r in s ta n t dry yea st is 105° to 1 1 0 °F /4 1 ° to 43°C.
The v ia b ility o f yea st m ayb e te s te d by p ro o fin g . To do so, com bine th e ye a st w ith warm
liquid and a sm all am ount o f flo u r o r sugar. L e t th e m ix tu re re s t a t room te m p e ra tu re un til
a th ic k surface foa m fo rm s. The foa m in dica tes th a t th e ye a st is alive and can be used. If
th e re is no foam , th e yea st is dead and should be discarded.
S a lt develops fla v o r in bread and also helps to c o n tro l th e actio n o f th e yeast. If s a lt is
o m itte d , breads do n o t develop as good a fla v o r o r te x tu re .
Pan preparation depends on the typ e o f dough to be baked. Because o f th e ir higher brow n­
ing point, lean doughs should be baked d ire ctly on the hearth. If th is is n ot possible, eith er line
the pan w ith parchm ent paper or dust it w ith cornm eal or semolina flo u r; cornmeal is espe­
cially w ell suited to fre e -fo rm loaves such as baguettes or round loaves. For doughs w ith a
higher percentage o f milk, sugar, and fa t, grease the pan or line it w ith parchm ent paper.
The sim p lest and fa s te s t m ethod fo r producing a lean dough is d ire ct ferm en tation : Com­
m ercially produced yeast is combined w ith flou r, water, and sa lt and mixed u n til the dough is
supple and elastic, w ith well-developed gluten.
The stra ig h t m ixing m ethod is m ost o fte n used w ith form ulas th a t rely on d ire ct fe rm e n ­
tatio n. For th is m ixing m ethod, the ingredients are added in a d iffe re n t order depending on the
typ e o f yeast used. If in sta nt dry yeast is used, the yeast should f ir s t be blended w ith the flour,
then all the rem aining ingredients should be added to the f lour-yeast m ixture. If active dry or
compressed fresh yeast is used, the yeast should f ir s t be blended w ith the w a te r and allowed
to fu lly dissolve. N ext the flo u r should be added and all the rem aining ingredients should be
placed on to p o f the flour.

c h a p te r 32 » Y E A S T B R E AD S 1027
 1. during mixing, f ir s t in the pic k -up
period, blend th e in g re d ie n ts on low speed u n til ju s t
com bined. The dough is a rough mass a t th is p o in t. Next,
du rin g th e clean-up pe rio d (p re lim in a ry developm ent), m ix
th e dough a t m o d e ra te speed; it w ill appear som ew hat
rough.

2. during the early stages o f the de ­

v e lo p m e n t period, th e e la s tic ity o f th e g lu te n begins to
develop and th e dough s ta rts to pull aw ay fro m th e sides
o f th e m ixin g bowl. A t th is p o in t th e m ixe r should be run­
ning at m edium speed.
D uring th e fin a l stages o f th e de velopm e nt period, the
g lu te n is fu lly developed. The dough becom es sm oo th and

m eth o d in d etail e la s tic and leaves th e sides o f the bow l c o m p le te ly clean

as th e m ixe r is running.
One w ay to know when to check fo r g luten de velop­
m en t is to un de rsta nd th e changes th a t occur w h ile m ix­
ing. There are fo u r sep ara te m ixing stages, no m a tte r
w h a t m ixin g m etho d you use. Each stage o f developm ent
shows a clear d iffe re n c e in de velopm e nt o f glu te n s tru c ­
tu re . Ind ivid ual recipes w ill te ll you th e level o f d e velop­
m en t required.
Dough th a t has reached s h o rt de velopm e nt w ill
becom e a hom ogeneous mass b u t w ill fa ll a p a rt when
w o rked w ith you r hands. Dough th a t has reached the
im p roved g lu te n de ve lo p m e n t stage holds to g e th e r but
te a rs when you check fo r th e g lu te n window. Dough th a t
has reached the in te nse stage o f g lu te n de velopm e nt w ill
n o t te a r as it is s tre tc h e d ; it w ill hold a th in m em brane you
can see through.
If you o ve rm ix th e dough, th e g luten w ill break down.
The dough w ill go fro m being sm oo th and e la stic to w e t
and sticky. Your bread w ill fa il, m eaning th a t it w o n't rise
p ro p e rly o r bake w ell. On th e o th e r hand, i f you don't m ix
th e dough enough o r m ix it im p ro p e rly, you w ill also w ind
up w ith low volum e and p o or in te rn a l s tru c tu re . P oorly
m ixed dough may mean th a t th e flo u r w ill n o t absorb the
liquids p ro p e rly and th a t th e dough tu rn s o u t irregular. It
w ill have a p o or g luten s tru c tu re , lack e la s tic ity , and the
dough w ill rem ain w e t and sticky.

1028 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
 lean and enriched doughs
3. bulk fermentation is th e f ir s t fe rm e n ­
ta tio n period. Bulk fe rm e n ta tio n is e sp ecially im p o rta n t
when using th e d ire c t fe rm e n ta tio n m ethod; w ith o u t the
a d d itio n o f p re -fe rm e n ts , th is is th e only tim e to develop
fla v o r th ro u g h fe rm e n ta tio n .
The p ro p e rly m ixed dough is tra n s fe rre d to a lig h tly
oiled bow l o r tu b ( s t if f o r fir m doughs can be placed on a
lig h tly flo u re d ta b le to p ).
The dough may also be re ta rd e d durin g bulk fe rm e n ta ­
tio n . R e ta rd in g dough means to p u rp o se ly cool th e dough,
ty p ic a lly a t te m p e ra tu re s o f around 40 °F /4 °C , in o rd e r to
slow th e fe rm e n ta tio n process. R e ta rd in g p e rm its bakers
to organize th e ir w o rk to m e e t p ro d u c tio n and em ployee
schedules. It also allow s th e g lu te n to relax fu rth e r, since
th e fe rm e n ta tio n is prolonged. Keeping th e dough a t
co o le r te m p e ra tu re s w ill re s u lt in a long er fe rm e n ta tio n
pe rio d and th u s m ore fla v o r developm ent.

4. let the dough rest a t room te m p e ra tu re

u n til it has doubled in size. Cover th e dough in a lig h tly
oiled bow l w ith a m o is t c lo th o r p la s tic w rap to pre ve n t
a skin fro m fo rm in g on th e surface and le t it re s t a t the
a p p ro p ria te te m p e ra tu re u n til it has doubled in size. The
tim e s sug ge ste d in our fo rm u la s are based on fe rm e n ta ­
tio n a t room te m p e ra tu re (75°F /24°C ).
The alcoh ol produced du rin g fe rm e n ta tio n te n d e r­
izes th e g lu te n strand s, m aking th e m m ore e la s tic so the y
expand, a llow in g th e bread to rise p ro p e rly. M ore te n d e r
g lu te n stra n d s produce a lo a f w ith a te n d e r and chewy
crum b. G luten is also fu rth e r developed durin g th is tim e
th ro u g h th e process o f fo ld in g .

c h a p te r 32 » Y E A S T B R E A D S 1029
 5. fold over the dough durin g or a fte r
bulk fe rm e n ta tio n to re d is trib u te th e available fo o d sup­
ply fo r the yeast, equalize th e te m p e ra tu re o f the dough,
expel th e b u ilt-u p fe rm e n ta tio n gases, and to fu rth e r
develop th e g lu te n in th e dough. Fold over the dough and
punch it down c a re fu lly to preserve the s tru c tu re already
developed.

6. accurate scaling cre a te s u n ifo rm ity o f

size f o r each dough piece, w hich allow s f o r u n ifo rm ity in
p ro o fin g and baking tim e s. A fte r scaling, g e n tly preshape
th e dough in to a round o r oblong. Preshaping gives the
dough a sm ooth, tig h t skin th a t w ill help tra p th e gases
th a t develop du rin g fe rm e n ta tio n .
R esting th e dough fo r 10 to 20 m inutes a fte r p re ­
shaping, covered w ith a linen clo th or p la s tic wrap, allow s
th e glu te n to relax so th a t th e dough w ill be easier to m a­
nip u la te in to its fin a l shape.
A fte r re stin g , give th e dough its fin a l shape. Brush the
dough w ith egg wash and apply garnish, i f using, a fte r it is
shaped, so th a t th e dough is evenly coa ted w ith o u t ris k o f
d e fla tin g it a fte r its fin a l rise.

1030 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
 lean and enriched doughs
7. after shaping, th e dough undergoes
one m ore fe rm e n ta tio n . Some doughs, such as th e lean
dough used to pre pa re boules, can s im p ly be placed on
a w o rk ta b le o r a board th a t has been d u sted w ith flo u r
o r cornm eal. O th e r doughs o r shapes may be placed on
a linen c lo th (couche) o r she et pans, in lo a f pans, or in
b a skets (bannetons), o r w ooden or o th e r m olds. During
th is fin a l rise, it is again im p o rta n t to ensure th a t a skin
does n o t fo rm on th e su rfa ce o f th e dough. If you are not
using a p ro o f box f o r th is fin a l p ro o f, th e dough should be
covered. Using th e te m p e ra tu re and h u m id ity c o n tro ls in
a p ro o f box w ill p re ve n t th is fro m happening w ith o u t the
need to cover th e dough.

BAKING THE BREAD

Lean doughs should be baked in a hot
oven (400° to 450°F/204° to 232°C) with
steam; enriched doughs should be baked
at a slightly lower temperature (approxi­
mately 375°F/i9i°C). Beyond this, other
things that may affect the specific baking
temperature are the type of oven, the size
and shape of the product, the desired
crust and color development (or other
such characteristics), and the length of
the pan proofing.
Once the loaves are baked, it is im­
portant that they be cooled properly in
order to preserve the crust and structure
of the bread as well as to allow for final
development of flavor. All breads, but
most importantly those made with lean
doughs, should be cooled on wire racks to
maintain air circulation around the entire
loaf. This will prevent moisture from col­
lecting on the bread as it cools.

c h a p te r 32 » Y E A S T BRE A D S
 /

XJ
Finishing techniques

The decision of how to finish a loaf of bread is an im­ w ashes

portant one. If you are making several different types of
breads and rolls the shape, scoring, and garnish not only
add to the beauty of the finished product, but also add
flavor and can indicate to you and your customers what
type of bread it is.
s c o r in g
1. M any breads are scored w ith a razor, sharp knife ,
scissors, o r lame b e fo re th e y are loaded in to th e oven.
S coring helps develop a g o o d -q u a lity lo a f w ith an even
appearance and crum b. S coring p a tte rn s f o r round
loaves should be evenly d is trib u te d over th e e n tire su r­
face.
Use beaten eggs as a wash to create a glossy, shiny crust
and seed in the moisture in the bread. Milk or cream is
often used for breads baked at lower temperatures.
g a r n is h in g
Garnishing the top of loaves or rolls adds flavor as well
as appeal. Herbs, salt, olives, and seeds as well as flours
such as semolina or rye may be applied after shaping, but
before the final fermentation. Use a bit of water on the
surface to adhere the garnish if the dough is not moist
enough on its own to make it stick.

2. Some breads, such as b a gu ette s, are scored w ith

tra d itio n a l p a tte rn s as a w ay to label th e breads, m aking
it easy fo r bo th c lie n ts and s t a f f to id e n tify them . Scoring
p a tte rn s fo r ob lo ng loaves are a t th e h ig h e st p o in ts on
th e loaf.

1032 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY

Basic Lean Dough
Makes 8 lb 7% oz/3.85 kg dough
5 lb /2.27 kg bread flour
3/4 o z/21 g instant dry yeast
3 lb 6 o z/1.53 kg water, warm
l 3/ t oz/ 50 g salt
1 . Combine the flour and yeast in the bowl of an elec­
tric mixer fitted with the dough hook. Add the water
and salt and mix on low speed for 2 minutes. Mix
on medium speed for about 3 minutes. The dough
should be smooth and elastic.
2 . Bulk ferment the dough until nearly doubled, about
30 minutes. Fold the dough gently. Ferment for an­
other 30 minutes, and fold again. Allow the dough to
ferment for another 15 minutes before dividing.
3 . See pages 1033,1034, and 1036 for shaping, proofing,
and baking options suitable for this dough.
yeast bread recipes
Baguettes
Makes 8 loaves
8 lb /3 .6 3 kg Basic Lean Dough (page 1033)
1 . Scale the dough into i-lb/454-g pieces. For each loaf,
shape the dough into an oblong. (Work sequentially,
here and in later steps, starting with the first piece of
dough you divided and rounded.) Let the dough rest,
covered, until relaxed, 15 to 20 minutes.
2 . Position the dough lengthwise, parallel to the edge of
the work surface with the seam side up. Press lightly
with your fingertips to stretch it into a rectangle
10 in/25 cm l°ng, using as little flour as possible.
Fold the top edge of the dough down to the center
of the dough, pressing lightly with your fingertips
to tighten the dough. Fold the dough lengthwise in
half and use the heel of your hand to seal the 2 edges
together, keeping the seam straight. Roll the dough
under your palms into a cylinder 20 in/51 cm long.
Keep the pressure even and hold your hands flat
and parallel to the work surface. Move your hands
outward from the center of the cylinder toward the
ends and slightly increase the pressure as you move
outward, until both ends have an even, gentle taper.
Then increase the pressure at the ends of the loaf to
seed them.
3 . Place the loaves seam side down into a pan or onto a
parchment-lined sheet pan. Proof, covered, until the
dough springs back very slowly to the touch, 30 to 45
minutes. (Baguettes should be slightly underproofed
when placed into the oven.)
4 . Score the dough with 5 or 7 diagonal lines down the
center of the loaf, overlapping each cut by V2 in/i cm.
5 . Bake in a 475°F/246°C oven with steam, if possible,
until the crust is golden brown, the bread sounds
hollow when thumped on the bottom, and you hear
a crackle when you hold it next to your ear, 20 to 25
minutes.
6 . Cool completely on a wire rack.
c h a p te r 32 » Y E A S T B R E AD S 1033
 Boules
Makes 8 loaves
8 lb /3.63 kg Basic Lean Dough (page 1033)
1 . Scale the dough into i-lb/454-g pieces. For each loaf,
shape the dough into a round. (Work sequentially,
here and in later steps, starting with the first piece of
dough you divided and rounded.) Let the dough rest,
covered, until relaxed, 15 to 20 minutes.
2 . Cup both hands around the dough. Using your
thumbs, push the dough away from you in an arc to
the right, keeping a small piece of dough between
the table and the edges of your palms. Using the
edges of your palms as a guide, pull the dough to­
ward you in an arc to the left. There should still be
a small piece of dough that is squeezed between
the table and the edges of your palms. Repeat this
circular motion 2 or 3 more times, applying gentle
pressure while rounding the dough, to create a tight,
smooth outer skin. Place the boule seam side up in a
round basket, or seam side down on a board dusted
with cornmeal.
3 . Proof until the dough springs back slowly to the
touch, 1 to 1V2 hours.
4 . Flip the dough seam side down onto a peel. Score
the boule with an arc.
5 . Bake in a 450°F/232°C oven with steam, if possible,
until the crust is golden brown and the bread sounds
hollow when thumped on the bottom, 25 to 30
minutes.
6 . Cool completely on a wire rack.
1034 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
Focaccia
Makes 8 loaves
8 lb /3.63 kg Basic Lean Dough (page 1033)
Olive oil, as needed
Toppings such as minced herbs, sauteed onions,
sliced tomatoes, or coarse salt, as needed
1 . Scale the dough into i-lb/454-g pieces. For each loaf,
shape the dough into a round. Let the dough rest,
covered, until relaxed, 15 to 20 minutes. (Work se­
quentially, here and in later steps, starting with the
first piece of dough you divided and rounded.)
2 . To shape the focaccia, flatten and stretch each round
of dough into a rectangle or a disk and place on sheet
pans sprinkled with cornmeal or brushed with oil.
Let the loaves rise until doubled, 30 to 40 minutes.
3 . Just before baking, dimple the focaccia with your
fingertips. Brush generously with oil and scatter the
desired topping over each focaccia.
4 . Bake in a 450°F/232°C oven until deep in color,
about 30 minutes.
5 . Cool completely on a wire rack.
Focaccia
Hard Rolls
Makes3dozenrolls
3 lb /1 .36 kg Basic Lean Dough (page 10 33 )
1. Scalethedoughinto36pieces,about oz/37g
1V3
each.Preshapethedoughintorounds.Letthedough
rest,covered,untilrelaxed,15to20minutes.
2 . Presseachpieceofdoughlightlyw ithyourfingertips
toflatten.Foldthetopedgeofthedoughdownto
thecenter,pressinglightlywithyourfingertipsto
tightenthedough.Rotatethedough90degrees,fold
itinhalf,andusetheheelofyourhandtosealthe
twoedgestogether.Cuptherollinyourhandand
reroundthedough,applyinggentlepressuretocre­
ateatight,smoothball.
3. Proof,covered,untilthedoughspringsbackslow ly
tothetouchbutdoesnotcollapse,about30minutes.
4 . Scoretherollsw ithastraightcutdownthecenterof
eachroll.
5. Bakeina450°F/232°Covenw ithsteam,ifpossible,
untiltherollshaveagoldenbrowncrustandsound
hollowwhenthumpedonthebottom,about15
minutes.
6. Coolcompletelyonwireracks.
Ciabatta
Makes4lb/1.81kgdough(4loaves)
PRE-FERMENT
IV /2 o z/3 2 6 g bread flour
8 o z/2 2 7 g water, warm
Vb ts p /0 .5 0 g instant dry yeast
DOUGH
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g bread flour
2 ts p /8 g instant dry yeast
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g water, warm
1 lb V/2 o z/4 9 6 g pre-ferment
2 tb sp /2 0 g salt
BAKING AND PASTRY
1. Topreparethepre-ferm
ent,combinetheflour,
water, andyeastinthebowlofanelectricmixer
fittedwiththedoughhook.Mixonlowspeedfor3
minutes, oruntilthoroughlycombined.Transfertoa
container, cover,andfermentat75°F/24°Cfor18to
24hours,untilthepre-fermenthasrisenandbegun
torecede; itshouldstillbebubblyandairy.
2 .Topreparethefinaldough,com binetheflourand
yeastinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwiththe
doughhook.Addthewater,pre-ferment,andsalt.
3. M ixonlowspeedfor4minutesandonmedium
speedfor1minute. Thedoughshouldbeblended
butnottooelastic(ciabattadoughisawet, slack
dough).
4 . Bulkferm entthedoughinatuborbowluntilnearly
doubled,about30minutes. Foldgentlyinhalffour
times(thedoughshouldfeellikejelly). Fermentfor
another30minutes. Foldinhalfagain,gently,two
times.Allowthedoughtofermentforanother15
minutesbeforedividing.
5. Placethedoughonthetableanddustthetopofit
withflour. Keeptheworksurfacewellflouredwhen
workingwithciabattadough.Usingthepalmsof
yourhands,gentlystretchthedoughintoarectangle
32in/81cmlongand1V2in/4cmthick.Becareful
toavoidtearingorpuncturingthedoughwithyour
fingertips. Usingaflouredbenchscraper,dividethe
doughintofourrectangles.
6. Flipthedoughoverontoflouredsheetpans.Gently
stretcheachpieceintoaroughrectangle. Stretchthe
doughslightlytoplaceitontothepan.
7. Proof,covered,untilthedoughspringsbackslow ly
tothetouchbutdoesnotcollapse,30to45minutes.
8. Lightlyflourthetopofthedough.
9 . Bakeina46o°F/238°Cdeckoven,w ithsteamif
possible,untilthecrustisgoldenbrownandthecia­
battasoundshollowwhenthumpedonthebottom,
25to30minutes.Ventduringthefinal10minutesif
usingsteam.Coolcompletelyonwireracks.

Pita Bread
Makes3lb6oz/1.53kg(11pitas)
1 lb /4 5 4 g bread flour
1 lb /4 5 4 g whole wheat flour
l 3/4 ts p /7 g instant dry yeast
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g water, warm
2 tb sp /3 0 mL olive oil
3/4 o z/21 g salt
3/ t ts p /3 .75 g sugar
1. Com
binethefloursandyeastinthebowlofanelec­
tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Addthewater,
oil, salt, andsugar.Mixonlowspeedfor4minutes
andonmediumspeedfor3minutes. Thedough
shouldbeslightlymoistbutwithstrongglutende­
velopment.
2 .Bulkferm entthedoughuntilnearlydoubled,about
30minutes.
3. Foldgently.
4 . Scalethedoughinto4y2-oz/i28-gpieces. Preshape
intorounds.Letthedoughrest,covered,untilre­
laxed,15to20minutes. (W orksequentially,hereand
inlatersteps,startingwiththefirstpieceofdough
youdividedandrounded.)
5. Usingarollingpin,rolleachpieceofdoughinto
around7in/18cmindiameter. Transfertoparch-
ment-linedsheetpans,cover, andletrelaxfor10
minutes.
6. Bakethepitasina5oo°F/26o°Covenuntilpuffed
butnotbrowned,3to4minutes.
7. Stackthepitas5highandw rapeachstackinacloth.
Coolbeforeserving.
yeast bread recipes
Semolina Pizza Crust
Makes8lb/3.63kgdough
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg bread flour
2 lb /9 0 7 g durum flour
V2o z/1 4 g instant dry yeast
3 lb /1.36 kg water, warm
2 o z/5 7 g olive oil
2 o z/5 7 g salt
1.Com
binethefloursandyeastinthebowlofan
electricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Addthe
water, oil, andsalt.Mixonlowspeedfor2minutes
andonmediumspeedfor4minutes.Thedough
shouldhavegoodglutendevelopmentbutstillbea
littlesticky.
2 .Bulkferm entthedoughuntilnearlydoubled,about
50minutes.
3.Foldgently.
4 .Allowthedoughtoferm entforanother15minutes
beforeretarding.
5.Refrigerateovernight.
6. Removethedoughfromtherefrigerator1hour
priortouse.
7.Scalethedoughinto8-oz/227-gpieces. Preshapethe
doughintorounds. (W orksequentially,hereandin
latersteps, startingwiththefirstpieceofdoughyou
dividedandrounded.)Letthedoughrest, covered,
intherefrigerator,untilrelaxed,1hour.
8. Usingarollingpin,rolleachpieceofdoughintoa
round9in/23cmindiameter. Transfertoparch-
ment-linedsheetpansthathavebeendustedwith
semolinaflour,orplaceeachroundonapeelbefore
youaddanytopping.
9 .Topthedoughasdesired(seethevariationsbelow ),
leavingai-in/3-cmborderwithoutgarnish.
10 .Bakethepizzasina500°F/260°Covenuntilgolden
brownaroundtheedges,3to4minutes. Serveat
once.
M a rg h e rita Pizza: Spread each round w ith 3 f I oz/90 mL
Tomato Sauce (page 295). Top each w ith 2 oz/57 g
shredded mozzarella and V2o z /1 4 g g ra te d Parmesan.
Spinach Pizza: Spread each round o f dough with IV2 oz/43 g
Pesto (page 299), IV2 oz/43 g sauteed spinach, IV20Z/
4 3 g ric o tta cheese, and 1 o z/2 8 g g ra te d ricotta salata.
ch a p te r 32 » Y E A S T B R E AD S 1037
 yeast bread recipes
Naan Bread Cottage Dill Rolls
Makes8flatbreads Makes6dozenrolls
14 o z/3 9 7 g all-purpose flour 12 o z/3 4 0 g water (68° to 7 6 °F /2 0 ° to 24°C)

2 V a o z/9 g instant dry yeast 5 o z/1 4 0 g compressed yeast

6 o z/1 7 0 g water, warm 5 lb 4 o z/2 .3 8 kg bread flour

2 o z/5 7 g clarified butter, plus more as needed 3 lb /1.36 kg cottage cheese

2 o z/5 7 g plain yogurt 4 Y 2 o z/1 2 8 g sugar

l e gg r /2 o z/4 3 g minced onions

1 o z /2 8 g sugar 3 o z/8 5 g butter, soft

V/ 2 ts p /5 g salt 1 o z/2 8 g salt

2 tb s p /1 2 g poppy seeds or black onion seeds 1 o z/2 8 g chopped dill

1 o z/2 8 g baking soda

1. Com
binetheflourandyeastinthebowlofanelec­ 6 o z/1 7 0 g eggs
tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Addthewater,
butter,yogurt,egg,sugar,andsaltandmixonlow Pinch grated horseradish

speedfor4minutes.Thedoughshouldbeveryelas­ Melted butter, as needed

ticbutstillwet. Salt, as needed

2 . Bulkferm entthedoughuntilnearlydoubled,about
1hour.
3. Foldgently.
4 . Scalethedoughinto3-oz/85-gpieces. Preshapethe
doughintorounds. (W orksequentially,hereandin
latersteps,startingwiththefirstpieceofdoughyou
dividedandrounded.)Letthedoughrest,covered,
untilrelaxed,15to20minutes.
5. Gentlystretcheachpieceofdoughintoaround7
in/18cmindiameter, sothatthecenteris%in/6
mmthickandthereisaborderV2in/icmwideall
around.Pulloutoneedgetoelongateeachround
slightly,creatingateardropshape.
6. Placethebreadsonparchment-linedsheetpans,
brushwithbutter,andsprinklewithseeds.
7 Bakeina425°F/2i8°Cdeckovenuntilgoldenbrow
. n
andpuffed,about10minutes.
8. Coolcompletelyonwireracks.
1. Com
binethewaterandyeastinthebowlofanelec­
tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhookandblenduntil
theyeastisfullydissolved.
2 .A ddtheflour,cottagecheese, sugar,onions,butter,
salt, dill,bakingsoda,eggs,andhorseradishand,us­
ingthedoughhook,mixonlowspeedjusttoincor­
porate. Increasethespeedtomediumandmixuntil
thedoughissmoothandelastic, 10to12minutes.
3. Placethedoughinalightlyoiledcontainer,cover,
andletriseuntilthedoughhasdoubledinvolume,
about75minutes.
4 . Turnoutontoalightlyflouredw orksurface.Fold
overthedough.
5. Scaleinto6dozeniy2-oz/43-gpieces. Roundoffthe
doughandletitrestfor15to20minutes.
6. Reshapetherollsandplaceonparchment-lined
sheetpans.
7. Proofinaproofboxorinaw armareauntildoubled
insize,about25to30minutes.
8. Bakeina38o°F/i93°Covenuntillightgoldenin
color,about20minutes.
9 . Brushtherollsw ithmeltedbutterandsprinklevery
lightlywithsaltassoonastheyaretakenfromthe
oven.Letcoolonthepans.

ch a p te r 32 » Y E A S T B R E AD S 1039
 Brioche Loaf Brioche a Tete: Divide the dough into 104 pieces, l 3A
o z /5 0 g each. Roll each piece into a ball, place them on
Makes8loaves sheet pans, and refrigerate fo r 15 minutes. Make a head
(tete) by pinching one-quarter o f the dough ball with
5 lb /2.27 kg bread flour
the side o f your hand and rollin g it back and fo rth on the
1 o z/2 8 g instant dry yeast worktable, making a depression in the dough, but not
detaching it; the larger piece o f dough should be about
16 eggs
2 3A in/7 cm long and the te te should be 3A in/2 cm long.
1 lb /4 5 4 g whole milk (68° to 7 6 °F /2 0 ° to 24°C) Gently press a hole all the way through the center o f the
larger piece o f dough. Push the te te through the center
2 o z/5 7 g salt
of the larger piece o f dough. Place each brioche into
3 lb /1.36 kg butter, soft but still pliable a greased brioche tin, w ith the te te on top. Brush the
brioche lightly w ith egg wash, cover w ith plastic wrap,
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023)
and p ro o f until the dough has doubled in size, about 2
hours. Brush w ith egg wash a second tim e and bake in a
1. Com
binetheflourandyeastinthebowlofanelec­ 400°F/204°C oven fo r 2 0 minutes, or until golden brown.

tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Addtheeggs,
milk,andsaltandmixonlowspeedfor4minutes.
2.. G raduallyaddthebutterwiththemixerrunningon
mediumspeed,scrapingdownthesidesofthebowlas
necessary.Afterthebutterhasbeenfullyincorporated,
mixonmediumspeedfor15minutes,oruntilthe
doughbeginstopullawayfromthesidesofthebowl.
3. Placethedoughonasheetpanthathasbeenlined
withparchmentpaperandgreased.Covertightly
withplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.
4 . Lightlygreaseeight2-lb/907-gloafpans(4V 2by8by
3in/11by20by8cm).
5. Dividethedoughbyhandinto64evenpieces, about
2%oz/78geach.Rolleachpieceintoaballandplace
itintheloafpanstoform2rowsof4ineachpan.
6. Brushtheloaveslightlywitheggwash,coverwith
plasticwrap,andproofuntilthedoughhasdoubled
insize,about2hours.
7. Brushw itheggwashasecondtime. Bakeina
400°F/204°Covenuntilthecrustisarichgolden
brownandthesidesofthebreadspringbackfully
whenpressed,30to35minutes.
8. Removefromthepanandcoolcompletelyonwire
racks.

1040 BAKING AND PASTRY

 yeast bread recipes
Raisin Bread with /.Placethedoughseamsidedowninagreasedpan.
Thedoughwillspringbackonitselfslightlyandfit
Cinnamon Swirl snuglyinthepan.Brushtheloaflightlywithegg
Makes6loaves wash.
8. Proof,covered,untilthedoughfillsthepanand
4 lb/1.81 kg bread flour
springsbackslowlytothetouchbutdoesnotcol­
Vi o z /1 4 g instant dry yeast lapse, 1V2to2hours.
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g milk (68° to 7 6 °F /2 0 ° to 24°C) 9 .Gentlybrushthebreadagainw itheggwash.Bake
5 3/ t o z/1 6 3 g butter, soft ina375°F/i9i°Covenuntilthecrustisbrownand
thesidesspringbackwhenpressed,25to30
5 3/t o z /1 6 B g sugar
minutes.
4 eggs
10 .Rem ovethebreadfromthepanandcoolcom­
V /i o z/4 3 g salt pletelyonwireracks.
12 o z/3 4 0 g raisins

3Aoz/21 g ground cinnamon

Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed

CINNAMON SUGAR

8 o z/2 2 7 g brown sugar

1 o z/2 8 g ground cinnamon

1.Com
binetheflourandyeastinthebowlofan
electricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Add
themilk,butter, sugar,eggs,andsalt. Mixonlow
speedfor4minutesandonmediumspeedfor4
minutes; inthelastminuteofmixing,addthe
raisins, andinthelast30secondsofmixing,add
thecinnamon,mixingjustlongenoughtocreatea
swirl.Thedoughshouldbeslightlysoft.
2 .Bulkferm entthedoughuntilnearlydoubled,
about1hour.
3.Foldgently.
4 .Scalethedoughinto1lb\-0zl567-gpiecesandpre­
shapeintoanoblong.
5.Letthedoughrest, covered,untilrelaxed,15to20
minutes. Lightlygreasesix2-lb/go7-gloafpans.
Combinethebrownsugarandcinnamon.
6. Rollthedoughintoanevenrectangle8by12in/20
by30cm.Brushlightlywitheggwash.Sprinkle1
oz/28gofthecinnamonsugarevenlyoverthesur­
face.Rollupthedoughalongthelongsideunder
yourpalmsintoacylinder,keepingthepressure
evenandholdingyourhandsflatandparallelto
theworksurfacetocreateasmooth,evenloaf.

ch a p te r 32 » Y E A S T B R E AD S 1043
 Challah (3-Braid) strand.Repeatthisprocessuntilyoureachtheend
Makes8loaves ofthedough.Pinchtheendstogethertightly.Flip
thebraidaroundandfinishbraidingtheotherside.
4 lb/1.81 kg bread flour 8. Brushthedoughlightlywitheggwash.Proof,cov­
'/2 o z/1 4 g instant dry yeast ered,untilthedoughspringsbacklightlytothe
2 lb /9 0 7 g water, warm
touchbutdoesnotcollapse, about1hour.There
12 egg yolks
shouldbeasmallindentationleftinthedough.
9 .M akesurethattheeggwashisdrybeforeyouap­
7 /2 o z/2 1 3 g vegetable oil
plyasecondcoat. Eggwashthedoughagainvery
2 o z/5 7 g sugar gently.
V 2 o z/1 4 g salt 10 .Bakeina350°F/i77°Cconvectionovenuntilthe
10 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023; braidsaredarkgoldenbrownandshiny,20to25
using yolks only) minutes.
11.Coolcom pletelyonwireracks.
1.Com
binetheflourandyeastinthebowlofanelec­
tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Addthewa­
ter,eggyolks,oil, sugar,andsalt.Mixonlowspeed
for4minutesandonmediumspeedfor4minutes.
Thedoughshouldbeslightlyfirmandsmooth,not
sticky.
2 .Bulkferm entthedoughuntilnearlydoubled,
about1hour.
3.Foldgently.
4 .Dividethedoughinto24pieces, about4V 2oz/128
geach.Preshapeintooblongs.Allowthedoughto
rest,covered,15to20minutes.
5.Startw iththefirstpieceofdoughthatyoushaped
andworksequentiallyonalightlyflouredwork­
bench.Startingatthecenterofthedough,roll
eachpieceoutward,applyinggentlepressurewith
yourpalms.Applyverylittlepressureatthecenter
ofthedough,butincreasethepressureasyouroll
towardtheendofthedough.Rolleachpieceof
doughintoanevenlytaperedstrand12in/30cm
long.Itisimperativethatallofthestrandsbethe
samelength.Iftheyarenot,thefinishedbraidwill
beuneven.
6. Dustthetopsofthestrandsverylightlywithwhite
ryeflour.Thiswillkeepthedoughdryasyoubraid
andhelpmaintaintheoveralldefinitionofthe
braid.
7.Lay3strandsofthedoughverticallyparallelto
eachother. Beginbraidinginthecenterofthe
strands. Placetheleftstrandoverthecenter
strand,thenplacetherightstrandoverthecenter

1044 BAKING AND PASTRY

 yeast bread recipes
S o ft Dinner Rolls Sweet Dough
Makes 12 dozen i-oz/ 2 8 -g rolls M akes 11 lb 8 ozl^ .22 kg dough

2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg milk (68° to 7 6 °F /2 0 ° to 24°C) 4 lb/1.81 kg milk (68° to 7 6 °F /2 0 ° to 24°C)

6 o z/1 7 0 g compressed yeast 6 o z/1 7 0 g compressed yeast

8 o z/2 2 7 g eggs 1 lb /4 5 4 g eggs

5 lb 8 oz/2.49 kg bread flour V/2 o z/4 3 g malt syrup

2 o z/5 7 g salt 1 lb /4 5 4 g pastry flour

8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar 4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg bread flour

8 o z/2 2 7 g butter (68° to 7 6 °F /2 0 ° to 24°C) 3/t o z /2 1 g s a lt

Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed 8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar

V2 o z/1 4 g ground cardamom

1. Com
binethemilkandyeastinthebowlofanelec­ 1 lb /4 5 4 g butter, soft
tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhookandblenduntil
theyeastisfullydissolved. 1. Com
binethemilkandyeastinthebowlofanelec­
2 .A ddtheeggs,flour,salt, sugar,andbutterandusing tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhookandblenduntil
thedoughhookmixonlowspeedjusttoincorpo­ theyeastisfullydissolved.
rate. Increasethespeedtomediumandmixuntilthe ~Z.Addtheeggsandm altsyrupandblend.Addthere­
doughissmoothandelastic, 10to12minutes. mainingingredientsandusingthedoughhookmix
3. Placethedoughinalightlyoiledcontainer, cover, onlowspeedjusttoincorporate. Increasethespeed
andletriseuntilthedoughhasdoubledinvolume, tomediumandmixuntilthedoughissmoothand
about1hour15minutes. elastic, 10to12minutes.
4 . Turnoutthedoughontoalightlyflouredw orksur­ 3.Thedoughm aybeshapednoworrefrigeratedfor
face. Foldoverthedough. lateruse.
5. Scalethedoughinto12dozeni-oz/28-gpieces, and
roundoff. Coverandletrestfor10minutes.
6. Shapethedoughintorolls(seeNote)andplace
themonparchment-linedsheetpans.Brushlightly
andevenlywitheggwash.
7. Coverandpanproofuntilnearlydoubled,25to30
minutes. Brushwitheggwashagainjustbeforebak­
ing,ifdesired.
8. Bakeina375°F/i9i°Covenuntildeepgoldenbrown,
about20minutes.
9 . Lettherollscoolonthepan.
NOTE: The rolls may be shaped into knots, Parker House
rolls, or cloverleaf rolls. To make knots, roll each ball of
dough into a rope and tie it into a knot or figure eight. For
Parker House rolls, fla tte n a piece o f dough, brush it with
butter, and fo ld it in half. For cloverleaf rolls, arrange 3
small balls o f dough in a triangular pattern and if desired,
place in m uffin tins.

ch a p te r 32 » Y E A S T BRE A D S 1045
 Sticky Buns 8. Spread8floz/240mLofthecinnamonsmear
Makes32stickybuns evenlyovertheremainderofthesurface. Rollup
thedoughtoformalog14in/36cmlongandseal
CINNAMON SMEAR
attheegg-washedstrip.Divideeachpieceofdough
10 o z/2 8 4 g bread flour
into9evenpieces.
9 .Pour8floz/240m Lofthepansmearintoeachof
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
four9-in/23-cmsquarebakingpans. Place9rolls
2 tb sp /1 2 g ground cinnamon ineachpan.Prooftherollsuntiltheyaredoubled
5 o z/1 4 2 g butter insize.
6 egg whites 10 .Bakeina400°F/204°Covenuntilgoldenbrow n,
8 o z/2 2 7 g pecans, toasted and chopped
25to30minutes. Immediatelyuponremovalfrom
theoven,inverteachpanontoaplate. Servewarm
PAN SMEAR oratroomtemperature.
2 lb /9 0 7 g light brown sugar

2 lb 10 oz/1.19 kg dark corn syrup

2 lb /9 0 7 g heavy cream

6 lb /2.72 kg Sweet Dough (page 1045)

8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023)

1.Tom
akethecinnamonsmear,mixtogetherthe
flour,sugar,andcinnamoninthebowlofanelec­
tricmixerfittedwiththepaddle.Addthebutter
andblendonmediumspeeduntilthemixture
lookslikecoarsemealandtherearenovisible
chunksofbutter,about1minute.
2 .A ddtheeggwhitesintwoadditions,mixingto
fullycombineandscrapingdownthesidesofthe
bowlasnecessary.
3.A ddthenutsandmixuntiljustcombined.Reserve
untilneeded.
4 .Tom akethepansmear,combinethesugar,
cornsyrup,andcreaminasaucepanandheatto
220°F/l04°C.
5.Allowthem ixturetocooltoroomtemperature
beforeusing.Itmaybenecessarytorecombinethe
mixturewithawhiskbeforeusing.
6. Scalethedoughintofourpieces, 1lb8oz/68og
each.(W orksequentially,hereandinlatersteps,
startingwiththefirstpieceofdoughyoudivided.)
Rolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredworksur­
facetoarectangle14by8in/36by20cmandap­
proximatelyV2in/icmthick.
7.Lightlybrushtherectanglew ithastripofeggwash
1in/3cmwidealongthelongside.

1046 BAKING AND PASTRY

and batters
Most pastry doughs and batters contain many common ingredients
flour, fat, liquid, and eggs. What makes each unique is the proportioi
in which each of the ingredients is used in relation to the others, J
the flavorings used, and the method for mixing or combining
the ingredients.
 B is c u it s , s c o n e s , s o d a b r ea d s , and p ie d o u g h s can be prepared u s in g a r u b b ed -d o u g h , or

C U T T I N G - I N , M E T H O D . T h e I N G R E D I E N T S A R E N O T B L E N D E D I N T O A S M O O T H B A T T E R . I N S T E A D , T H E FAT

IS C H I L L E D A N D T H E N R U B B E D I N T O T H E F L O U R T O C R E A T E F L A K E S T H A T W I L L P R O D U C E A T E N D E R ,

F L A K Y BAKED ITEM .

rubbed-dough
m e t h o d (cutting-in)
Flour, a cold solid fa t, and a ve ry cold liquid are th e basic com ponents o f m ost rubbed-
dough pro du cts. A ll-p u rp o se w heat flo u r or a com b in ation o f w h ea t and o th e r flo u rs should
be p ro p e rly w eighed and s ifte d . Any leavener should be weighed o r m easured and blended
evenly th ro u g h o u t th e flo u r e ith e r by s iftin g it w ith the flo u r or by blending w ith a whisk.
O th er dry in g re d ie n ts (salt, spices, etc.) are ty p ic a lly scaled o u t and blended w ith th e flo u r
in the same manner.
B utter, shortening, o r lard (or a com b in ation ) are the m ost com m on fa ts used fo r th is
m ixing m ethod; the y should be broken or cu t in to pieces and k e p t cool.
Recipes using th is m ixing m ethod call fo r a re la tiv e ly sm all am ount o f liquid, and the
liquid, like th e fa t, should be very cold to fu rth e r in h ib it th e fa t fro m blending co m p le te ly
w ith the flo u r. W ater, m ilk, and b u tte rm ilk are all common
liquid ingre die nts. Com bine the liquid w ith the o th e r in g re ­
dien ts ju s t enough to allow th e m o istu re to be absorbed by
method th e flo u r and ju s t u n til th e in g re d ie n ts come to g e th e r, at

at-a-glance which p o in t the dough should be allow ed to re s t in the re ­

frig e ra to r.
S ift the d ry ing re d ie nts. There are tw o basic typ e s o f rubbed doughs: fla k y and

2. Cut the fa t in to the dry mealy. The la rge r the fla ke s o f fa t b e fo re the liquid is add­
ed, the fla k ie r and crisp e r th e baked dough w ill be. If the
in g re d ie n ts u n til the m ixtu re
resem bles a coarse meal. fla ke s o f b u tte r or sh o rte n in g are rubbed in to th e dough
so th a t the y rem ain visible , the re s u lt w ill be w h a t is o fte n
3. Add th e cold liquid
re fe rre d to as “fla k y " pie dough. If th e b u tte r or sho rte ning
ing re d ie nts and m ix ju s t u n til
is m ore th o ro u g h ly w orked in to th e dough, u n til the m ixtu re
a shaggy mass is fo rm e d.
resem bles coarse meal, the re s u lt w ill be w h at is som e­
4. Knead the dough very b rie fly , tim e s re fe rre d to as "m ealy" dough. Rubbed doughs f o r pies
i f necessary. or ta r ts should be ro lle d o u t on a lig h tly flo u re d w o rk sur­
face to a p p ro xim a te ly Va in /B mm thick.
5. Shape and scale th e dough as
Flaky pie dough is b e st fo r pies and ta rts th a t
desired, and bake as indicated
are fille d w ith a f r u it fillin g and baked. M ealy dough is best
fo r the p a rtic u la r item .
suite d fo r pies and ta rts th a t req uire a fu lly baked shell th a t
is fille d a fte r coo lin g and chilled u n til set, and fo r pies w ith
J custa rd o r o th e r liquid fillin g s th a t are baked u n til set.

1048 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
 rubbed-dough method
Pie pans and ta rt pans require no preparation because a dough of this type contains
a great amount of fat. Properly preheat ovens and adjust the rack to the center position
in conventional ovens. Have wire cooling racks available. Remove scones, biscuits, and
breads from their baking pans and cool directly on the racks; pies and tarts cool on racks in
their pans. Tarts may be removed from their pans after they are completely cooled.
There are a few basic things to consider when preparing a rubbed dough:

» S if t th e dry in g red ien ts to g e th e r prior to adding th e f a t to ensure th a t all ing red ients
are evenly d is trib u te d . The process o f rubbing in th e f a t w ill n ot e ffe c tiv e ly blend the
dry ing red ients to g e th e r.

» Keep th e f a t very cold. It is im p e ra tiv e th a t th e f a t rem ain cold through th e m ixing and
shaping process w h e th e r you are m aking biscuits or pie dough. It is th e d is tin c t layers
th a t are c re a te d through th e rubbing process th a t c re a te th e fla k y te x tu re . Once th e
f a t becom es to o w arm it w ill begin to blend w ith th e flo u r and o th e r in g red ients, b e­
com ing m ore o f a hom ogeneous mass, which w ill com prom ise th e fin a l te x tu re o f th e
fin ish ed product.

» W o rk th e dough only as much as needed to achieve th e d esired resu lt. The fin a l stage
o f any rubbed dough is to add th e liquid. It is crucial th a t th e dough is not overw orked
a t th is ju n c tu re . O verw orking will p ro m o te th e d evelo p m en t o f g lu ten (th e p ro tein
con tain ed in flo u r) and w ill m ake th e dough tough, so th a t it w ill be d iffic u lt to w ork
w ith and it w ill have an u np leasantly hard te x tu re when baked.

chapter 33 » P A S T R Y D O U G H S A N D B A T T E R S 1049
 1. sift or blend the dry ingredients well before
adding the fat. Good results depend on working the dough
as little as possible and blending the dry ingredients at
the beginning to cut down on mixing time later. Have the
fa t cold so that it is still solid enough to be worked into
the flour without blending the mixture into a smooth
dough. Add the fa t to the dry ingredients all at once, and
rub them into the fat. Don’t work the fat into the flour too
thoroughly, or the end result will not be as flaky and deli­
cate as desired.
The fa t in the mixture on the top was rubbed until the
pieces were the size of shelled walnuts, which will result
in a flaky pie dough. The fa t in the mixture on the bottom
was rubbed until the pieces were approximately the size
of peas. This will produce a mealy pie dough. Note the
color difference that was achieved by rubbing the fa t into
the flour more thoroughly.

m eth o d in d etail
2. make a well in the center of the flour-fat
mixture and add the liquid ingredients. Slowly mix the
flour together with the liquid, starting with the flour on
the inside of the well and working to the outside.

mm

1050 BAKING AND PASTRY


3. do not overwork the dough once the
liquid is added; vigorous or prolonged mixing will result in
a tough product. Knead the dough just until smooth.
Divide and portion the dough fo r storage. Pie dough
should be refrigerated after mixing and before rolling it
out to the desired thickness. Use light but even pressure
while rolling out the dough.
CRUMB CRUSTS
Arubbedpiedoughismosttypicallyused
forfruitpiesandcustardsthatarebaked
intheovenintheircrust. Crumbcrusts,
however,aresimple,flavorful,quick-to-
makecruststhataretypicallyusedintwo
typesofpreparations:puddingorcream
1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g graham
cracker or o th er crumbs
4 o z /1 1 3 g sugar
6 o z /1 7 0 g b utter, m elted
1.Mixtheingredientstogetheruntil
fullycombined. Thenscalethecrust
intopreparedpansandpressintoan
evenlayeraboutViin/6mmthick.
rubbed-dough method
§t! l
piesandcheesecakes. Grahamcrackers
aremostcommonlyusedasthebasefor
crumbcrusts,butothertypesofcookies
maybeusedfordifferentflavors.
Abasicrecipeforacrumbcrustisas
follows:
2 . Crum
bcrustsshouldbebakedat
350°F/i77°Cuntilsetandlightgolden
brown,about7minutes. Coolthe
crustcompletelybeforefilling.
3. Forpuddingandcreampies,thefilling
iscooked,thenpouredintothecooled
bakedcrust,andrefrigerateduntilset.
Forcheesecakes,thebatterispoured
intothecooledbakedcrustandthen
bakeduntilset.
c h a p te r 33 » PA S T R Y D O U G H S A N D BATTERS
 T h e B L E N D IN G M E T H O D C O N S IS T S OF M A K IN G TW O M IX T U R E S , O NE W IT H T H E W E T IN G R E D IE N T S A N D ONE

W IT H T H E DR Y IN G R E D IE N T S , T H E N C O M B IN IN G T H E T W O T O G E TH E R . T h e DR Y IN G R E D IE N T S T Y P IC A L L Y

I N C L U D E F L O U R , S U G A R , SALT, C H E M I C A L L E A V E N E R S , A N D F L A V O R I N G S U C H A S S P I C E S A N D C O C O A .

the blending
mixing method
These ingredients are sifted and/or blended together. The fa t is added in liquid form: ei­
ther oil or melted butter. The fat is added to the other liquid ingredients (milk, water, juice,
eggs, etc.) and blended together before it is added to the dry ingredients.
First, s ift the flour with the other dry ingredients. Special flours such as cornmeal or
whole wheat flour may replace some or all of the white wheat flour in a given formula to
add flavor and develop a different texture. It is important to s ift the dry ingredients to
remove lumps and incorporate the dry ingredients together. Thoroughly blending the dry
ingredients also ensures that the leavening agent will be evenly distributed in the mixture.
Sifting will ultimately help to create a fully combined batter needing minimal mixing time.
Next combine the wet ingredients. Cream, milk, buttermilk, water, and even watery
vegetables like zucchini are all considered wet ingredients.
Solid fats like butter or shortening are most often melted
for this method so they can be blended with the other liquid
m eth o d ingredients. All ingredients should be at room temperature
at-a-glan ce before being added; if too cold, they may cause the batter
to separate.
1. S i f t t o g e t h e r t h e d ry Finally, add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients
in g r e d ie n t s . all at once and blend, just until the dry ingredients are
evenly moistened. Mixing these batters as briefly as pos­
2. C o m b in e t h e liq u id
sible ensures a light, delicate texture. Overmixed batters
in g r e d ie n t s .
may develop too much gluten and the resulting item will not
3. A d d t h e liq u id in g r e d ie n t s t o have the desired fine, delicate texture.
t h e d r y in g r e d ie n t s .

4. M ix u n t il t h e b a t t e r is e v e n ly
m o is te n e d .

5. A d d a n y a d d itio n a l g a r n is h .

F ill p r o p e r ly p r e p a r e d p a n s
a n d b a k e t h e it e m .

7. R e m o v e t h e it e m f r o m t h e
p a n s , c o o l, a n d s e r v e o r
p r o p e r ly s t o r e it.

1052 BAKING AND PASTRY

 the blending mixing and creaming methods
M u f f i n s , c a k e s , q .u i c k b r e a d s , c o o k ie s , a n d o th er baked g o o d s m a d e w it h th e c r e a m in g

M E T H O D D E VE LO P T H E IR L IG H T AN D A IR Y ST R U C TU R E FR OM TH E USE OF C H E M IC A L LE A V E N E R S AND

T H E IN C O R P O R A T IO N OF A IR INTO T H E BATTER OR D O UG H.

the creaming
method
For the creaming method, firs t the fa t and sugar are blended ("creamed") until relatively
smooth, light, and creamy. Then eggs are added gradually, and finally the sifted dry ingredi­
ents are added in one or two additions, depending on the amount of flour. If there is a liquid,
the flour and liquid are added alternately, starting and ending with the flour. It is important
that ingredients fo r a creamed batter or dough are at the proper temperature before you
begin to mix. Fats should be softened to 65 to 70°F/18 to 21°C and the eggs and liquids (if
using) should be warmed to 70°F/21°C.
The fat should be pliable so that it can aerate properly. Allow the butter or other fat to
come to room temperature, or beat it in a mixer with the paddle to soften it slightly. The sug­
ar used in creaming recipes is often granulated white sugar, although brown sugar or confec­
tioners’ sugar may be used in some recipes. It is the act of beating the granules of sugar into
the fa t that produces the f i­
nal texture. Eggs included in
the recipe should be at room
m eth o d at-a-g lan ce temperature to avoid break­
ing the creamed butter and
B r in g s h o r t e n in g 5. A d d t h e s i f t e d d ry sugar mixture. Flavorings
o r b u t t e r t o ro o m in g r e d ie n t s a n d liq u id such as vanilla extract or
te m p e r a tu re . in g r e d ie n t s a l t e r n a t e ly , chocolate should be at room
in p o r tio n s . I f n o t u s in g temperature. Chocolate is
S i f t t h e flo u r , le a v e n e r s ,
liq u id in g r e d ie n t s , a d d typically melted and allowed
a n d o t h e r d r y in g r e d ie n t s
t h e d r y in g r e d ie n t s a ll a t to cool slightly before being
as n e c e s s a ry .
once. blended into the batter. Liq­
3 C re a m th e b u tte r and uid flavoring should be add­
6 . S c a le o u t t h e b a t t e r in to
s u g a r u n t il t h e m ix t u r e ed with the eggs and the dry
p re p a re d pans and b ake
is lig h t a n d s m o o th a n d ingredients should be added
t h e it e m .
f u l l y c o m b in e d . with the flour.
R e m o v e t h e it e m f r o m Generally, pans are
A d d t h e e g g s g r a d u a lly
t h e p a n s , c o o l, a n d s e r v e greased and lightly floured,
a n d m ix t h e m in u n t il t h e
o r p r o p e r ly s t o r e it. orgreased, lined with parch­
b a t t e r is s m o o th . S c r a p e
t h e b o w l in b e t w e e n e a c h ment that has been cut
a d d itio n . to size, and then greased
again.

chapter 33 » P A S T R Y D O U G H S A N D B A T T E R S 1053
 1. cream the fat and sugar together
with the paddle o f an electric mixer on medium speed.
Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl
occasionally as you work to ensure that all the fa t is
blended evenly. Continue until the mixture is pale in color
and light and relatively smooth in texture. When the but­
ter and sugar have this appearance, it indicates that a
sufficient amount o f air has been incorporated into the
mixture.
If the ingredients are not sufficiently creamed, the
final product will be somewhat dense and lack the light,
tender qualities characteristic o f creamed baked goods.

2. add room-temperature eggs

gradually and in stages, fully incorporating them and
scraping down the bowl a fter each addition. Scraping
down the bowl is important to develop a completely
smooth batter. Adding the eggs in batches will help to
prevent the batter from separating.

1054 BAKING AND PASTRY

 the creaming method
3. add the sifted dry ingredients
all at once, or alternately with the liquid ingredients.
When adding the dry alternating with the liquid, add one-
third o f the dry ingredients, then about one-half o f the
liquid ingredients, mixing until smooth and scraping down
the bowl after each addition. Repeat this sequence until
all o f the dry and liquid ingredients have been added.
Increase the mixer speed and beat the batter just
until it is evenly blended and smooth. Regardless of the
method of addition, after adding the dry ingredients the
dough or batter should be mixed minimally or just until .
the dry ingredients are incorporated.
Finally, add any remaining flavoring or garnishing
ingredients, such as nuts, chocolate chips, or dried fruit,
mixing or folding just until incorporated.

GENERAL MIXING GUIDELINES

W henmixingabatter,thereareafew »Beforemixing,all ingredientsshouldbe

thingstokeepinmind,regardlessofthe
mixingmethod,thatwillhelpensurea
successfulendresult.
»Sifttogetherdryingredients(flours,spices,
leaveners)toremoveanylumpsandto
evenlydistributetheingredients. Spices
andchemicalleavenersareimportant
componentsofabatterbutaretypically
usedinsmallamounts. Itisveryimpor­
tantthattheybeevenlydistributedfor
properflavordevelopmentandtoensure
anevencrumb.
atroomtemperature.Ingredientsnotat
thepropertemperaturecaninhibitproper
mixing,causingabattertoseparateorto
havelumps.
»Mixingtimeinbattersallowsforthede­
velopmentofaircellsthatarekeytothe
structureofafinishedbakeditem. They
helptodevelopthecrumbandtexture
duringbaking. However,itisimportant
torestrictthemixingtimeaftertheflour
hasbeenaddedtopreventdevelopmentof
gluten,whichwouldmakethebakeditem
toughorchewy.

chapter 33 » P A S T R Y D O U G H S A N D B A T T E R S 1055
 Lam in a t e d doughs in c l u d e p u f f p a s t r y , c r o is s a n t , and Da n is h . To m a k e a l a m in a t e d dough ,

F O L D A N D R O L L A PR EPA RE D D OU GH ( T H E I N I T I A L D O U G H ) T O G E T H E R W I T H A BL OC K OF FAT, C A L L E D A

r o l l - in . T h ro u g h a s e rie s o f f o l d s ("tu rn s "), m u lt ip le la y e r s o f d o u g h a n d f a t a re c re a te d

T H A T BO TH L E A V E N A N D C O N T R I B U T E TO C R I S P N E S S , T E N D E R N E S S , A N D L I G H T N E S S .

laminated doughs
The fat that separates the layers of this final dough melts during baking, providing a place for
steam that is released from the dough and the fat to collect, expanding the space between
the flaky layers of pastry. Proper mixing methods, rolling techniques, and temperature con­
trol are essential to producing laminated doughs that are flaky and delicate after baking.
Folding may be the most important factor in making a laminated dough, as the distinct
layers of fa t and dough must be maintained throughout the process. The dough must be
rolled out evenly and the corners kept square throughout the lock-in of fa t and all subse­
quent folds, to ensure proper layering.
The firs t fold and the step that introduces the roll-in (lamination fat) to the dough is the
lock-in. The roll-in fat and the dough must be of the same consistency. Let the roll-in stand
at room temperature for a few minutes if it is too hard, or re­
frigerate it if it is too soft.
To administer a lock-in, divide the sheet of dough vi­
m eth o d sually in half. Roll the roll-in into a rectangle that is half
the size of the dough sheet, and place it on one half of the
at-a-glan ce
dough, then fold the other half of the dough over it and seal
1 . Prepare the dough and ro ll-in . the edges to completely encase the roll-in fat. This type of
fold doubles the number of layers in the pastry. The roll-
2 . A d m in iste r lock-in and rest.
in fa t can also be added to the dough using the envelope,
3- Fold th e o n e -th ird o f the single-fold, or three-fold technique.
dough over th e m iddle o f th e After the roll-in is added to the dough, subsequent
dough. folds are usually made with the three-fold technique. A f­
ter each fold, brush any excess flour from the surface of
4- Fold th e rem aining th ird o f
the dough over th e m iddle. the dough before folding and rolling it. When you fold the
dough, corners should meet squarely and the edges should
5- Rest th e dough fo r 15 to 30 be straight and perfectly aligned. A fter each fold, refrig­
m inutes to relax th e gluten.
erate the dough to allow it to relax and the butter to chill;
6 . Roll the dough o ut to th e the length of time the dough will need to rest will depend in
o rig in a l th ickne ss and rep e a t large part on the temperature of the kitchen.
the th re e -fo ld procedure, as For each fold, turn the dough 90 degrees from the pre­
desired, re stin g a fte r each vious one to ensure that the gluten is stretched equally in
th re e -fo ld . all directions.

1056 B A K I N G A N D PASTRY

1. divide the sheet of pastry visually into thirds.
2. fold One of the outerthirds of the dough over
the middle third.
PHYLLO DOUGH
Thisdough,usedtopreparestrudeland
baklava,isaleandoughmadeonlyof
flourandwaterandoccasionallyasmall
amountofoil. Thedoughisstretchedand
rolleduntilitisextremelythin.Instead
ofbeingrolledintothedough,butter
ismeltedandbrushedontothedough
sheetsbeforetheyarebakedsothatafter
baking,theresultissimilartopuffpastry.
Mostkitchenspurchasefrozenphyllo
dough.Thisdoughneedssufficienttime
tothawandcomeuptoroomtemperature
beforeitcanbeworkedsuccessfully.After
laminated doughs
3. fold the remaining third of the
dough over the folded dough. This fold triples the number
o f layers in the dough each time.
m eth o d in detail
removingphyllofromitswrapping,coverit
lightlywithdampenedtowelsandplastic.
Otherwisethephyllocandryoutquickly
andbecomebrittleenoughtoshatter.
Forthebesttexture, spreadbread
crumbs,butteroroil,oracombinationof
thetwoevenlyoverthedoughtokeepthe
layersseparateastheybake. Useaspray
bottleorbrushtoapplybutteroroilinan
evencoat. Refrigeratingphyllopastries
beforebakinghelpsthelayersremaindis­
tinctandallowsthemtorisemoreasthe
pastrybakes.
c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS 1057
 A F O A M I N G M E T H O D IS A N Y M E T H O D I N W H I C H T H E E G G S A R E W H I P P E D O R B E A T E N TO I N C O R P O R A T E

A IR BE FO RE T H E Y ARE F O L D E D INTO T H E R E ST OF TH E BATTER. W H E N Y O U US E A F O A M IN G M E T H O D ,

I T IS V I T A L T H A T A L L I N G R E D I E N T S A N D E Q U I P M E N T A R E A S S E M B L E D A N D R E C E I V E A N Y P R E L I M I N A R Y

T R E A T M E N T B E F O R E Y O U B E G I N TO M I X T H E B A T T E R .

the foaming
method
Pans should be prepped as called f o r in the s p e c ific recipe: greased and lined o r dusted
w ith flo u r. If called for, b u tte r, should be m elte d and s lig h tly cooled. Dry in g re d ie n ts such
as flou r, a d d itio n a l leavener, and ground spices should be s ifte d tog ether.
There are th re e basic type s o f foa m ing m ethods: cold, warm , and separated. For the cold
foa m ing m ethod, whole eggs are w hipped to m axim um volum e w ith the sugar be fore being
fo ld e d in to the batter. For the warm foam ing m ethod, the egg m ixtu re is heated over a w a te r
bath b e fore it is whipped to m aximum volume, to create a m ore stab le foam . For the s eparat­
ed m ethod, the yolks and w h ites are w hipped separately w ith sugar fo r m aximum aeration.

method at-a-glance
S ift the flo u r and o th e r to m edium and beat the
d ry ing re d ie n ts as eggs fo r 15 m inutes to
necessary. s ta b ilize th e foam .

2. H eat th e eggs and Fold in th e s ifte d dry

sugar over a h ot w a te r in g re d ie n ts by hand.
bath to a pp ro xim a te ly
Temper in th e fla vorin g s,
110°F/4B °C , s tirrin g to
m elte d b u tte r, and o th e r
make sure th a t all o f the
o p tio n a l ing re d ie nts.
sugar is dissolved.
6. Scale out the b a tte r into
A fte r rem oving the
prepared pans and bake it.
egg-sugar m ixtu re fro m
the heat, beat it u n til Remove the cake fro m
it reaches m axim um th e oven and le t it cool
volume. Turn the m ixer b rie fly in the pan.

1058 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
 the toaming method
There are, however, v a ria tio n s o f the se basic fo a m in g m etho ds. Two o f th e se are the
m etho ds f o r m aking angel fo o d cake and c h iffo n cake. Angel fo o d cake is made by fo a m ­
ing egg w h ite s, th a t is, m aking a m eringue and fo ld in g in s ifte d flo u r. C h iffo n cake is also
made w ith fo a m e d egg w h ite s: th e sugar, fa t, flo u r, and egg yolks are com bined and the n a
m eringue is fo ld e d in.
For separated foam ing m ethods it is im perative th a t no trace o f yolk be in the whites. The
yolk contains fa t th a t w ill prevent the egg w hites fro m whipping to fu ll volume. Just as when
m aking a meringue, many people choose to wipe the bowl w ith vinegar before whipping.
To m aintain th e m axim um volum e o f the egg w h ite s w h ile fo ld in g in to the b a tte r, use
a large f la t spatula. Inco rp ora te a sm all am ount o f egg w h ite s in to th e b a tte r to lighte n it
b e fo re fo ld in g in th e rem aining m eringue. For m axim um volum e in th e fin is h e d b a tte r, fo ld
in th e m eringue q u ickly and gently.

COOLING AND STORING QUICK BREADS AND CAKES

Quickbreadsandcakesshouldbeallowed
tocoolslightly(justenoughsotheycan
behandled)beforeunmolding.W ireracks
arebesttousebecausetheyallowairto
circulateunderthepan,wheremuchheat
isretained.
First,gentlyhelpthecakeorloaf
releasefromthepan.Runasmallmetal
spatulaorknifearoundtheinsideedgeof
thepan,pressingtheimplementagainst
thepantoensurethatyoudonotcut
intothecakeorloaf. Invertthepanonto
acardboardcakeroundorwirecooling
rack,gentlyshakethepanandtapitsbot­
tom.Liftthepantofullyreleasethebaked
item.Peelawaytheparchmentpaperfrom
thebottomofthecakeorloaftoallowthe
steamtoescape.
Insomecases,icingsmaybedrizzled
ontoitemsthatarestillslightlywarm
fromtheoven,butinmostinstancescakes
shouldbecompletelycooledbeforecut­
ting,filling,andicingorfrosting.
Theshelflifeforquickbreadsandcake
layersisrelativelylimitedwhentheyare
leftexposedtotheair. However,theycan
befrozenforuptothreeweekswhentight­
lywrappedinplasticwrap.Beforeserving
orusetheyshouldbeallowedtothawat
roomtemperature.

chapter 33 » P A S T R Y D O U G H S A N D B A T T E R S 1059
 1. scale and sift dry ingredients,
pre pa re pans, and p re h e a t th e oven b e fo re be a tin g the
eggs. The dry in g re d ie n ts m ust be com bined w ith th e eggs
as soon as th e eggs have reached th e ir m axim um volum e,
as th e y begin to lose volum e a fte r th e y are beaten.
F o rth e w arm fo a m in g m ethod, shown here, com bine
th e eggs (whole, yolk, o r w h ite s) w ith sugar in a bowl
and heat the m to ab ou t 11 0 °F /4 3 °C and s tir or w h isk to
c o m p le te ly dissolve th e sugar, increase th e volum e, and
develop a fin e r grain. The eggs and sugar a t th e s ta r t o f
m ixing are s till a deep ye llo w and re la tiv e ly thin.
For th e cold fo a m in g m ethod, com bine th e eggs and
sugar in th e m ixe r bowl.

method in detail
2. once the eggs and sugar are com ­
bined, w hip th e m on m edium to high speed u n til the eggs
are w h ipp ed to m axim um volum e and begin to recede
fro m th e side o f th e bowl. (This ste p is done on th e mixer,
n o t over th e h o t w a te r bath.) A p o in t w ill come when the
fo a m does n o t appear to be in crea sing in volum e. The
m ix tu re should fo rm a rib bo n as it fa lls fro m th e w ire w hip
and ju s t begin to recede a fte r the fu ll volum e is reached.
The eggs are p ro p e rly beaten a t th is po in t. Turn th e m ixer
to m edium and b e a t th e eggs f o r 15 m in utes to sta b iliz e
the foam .
Fold in th e s ifte d d ry in g re d ie n ts. This is o fte n done
by hand, alth ou gh som e chefs add the m w ith th e machine
on the lo w e st po ssib le speed and tu rn in g the machine on
and o f f as necessary. Do n o t o ve rw o rk th e b a tte r a t th is
po in t, as th e fo a m could s ta r t to d e fla te , re s u ltin g in a
fla t, dense cake.
If using b u tte r o r an o th e r sho rte ning, te m p e r it in to
th e b a tte r a fte r th e d ry in g re d ie n ts have been p ro p e rly
in co rp o ra te d . These in g re d ie n ts should be w arm so th a t
th e y are evenly d is trib u te d th ro u g h o u t th e b a tte r. Temper
th e s h o rte n in g in g re d ie n t by blending it w ith a litt le b a t­
te r to re ta in m axim um volume.
Scale th e b a tte r in to p re pa red baking pans and bake
u n til done.

1060 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
 the foaming method
3. the cake should rise evenly d u r­
ing baking. W hen it is p ro p e rly baked, it w ill ju s t begin to
sh rin k away fro m th e sides o f th e pan. The surface should
sp rin g back when pressed lig h tly .
Remove the cake fro m the oven and le t it cool b rie fly in
the pan. Remove it fro m th e pan and le t it cool com p le te ly
on a w ire rack. Angel fo o d and c h iffo n cakes should be al­
lowed to cool c o m p le te ly upside down in th e pan b e fore
unm olding, so th a t th e y re ta in th e ir fu ll volume.
Cakes pre pa red by th e fo a m in g m ethod are o fte n
m ore spongy than o th e r cakes, alth ou gh th e y do have a
disce rn ib le crum b. A ngel fo o d and c h iffo n cakes are the
s p o n g ie st o f th e se typ e s. The lim ite d am ount o f s h o rte n ­
ing used gives th e se cakes a s lig h tly dry te x tu re , which
is w hy the y are o fte n m oiste ne d w ith sim p le syrup. Even
though th e re is a large p ro p o rtio n o f eggs in foam ed
cakes, th e re should n o t be an unpleasant egg flavo r.

chapter 33 » P A S T R Y D O U G H S A N D B A T T E R S 1061
 P a t e a c h o u x is a p r e c o o k e d b a t t e r t h a t e x p a n d s f r o m t h e s t e a m r e l e a s e d in t h e d o u g h t o

F O R M A H O L L O W S H E L L W H E N B A K E D . I t C A N BE F I L L E D , A S F O R P R O F I T E R O L E S ( c r e a m p u f f s ), O R NOT ,

AS FOR G OU GER ES.

pate a choux
Pate a choux is made by cooking w ater, b u tte r, flo u r, and eggs in to a sm oo th b a tte r, then
shaping and baking it. The shapes expand durin g baking, to cre a te a de lica te shell. Pate a
choux is s o ft enough th a t a p a s try bag can be used to pipe it in to d iffe re n t shapes. Among
th e m ost com m on shapes are cream p u ffs, p ro fite ro le s , and eclairs.
A ll-p u rp o se flo u r may be used to make pate a choux, b u t bread flo u r is th e b e st choice
because it has a higher percentage o f p ro te in . Flours w ith m ore p ro te in are able to absorb
m ore liquid, which allow s m ore eggs to be added. M ore eggs w ill re s u lt in a lig h te r fin ish e d
pa stry, and th e higher g luten c o n te n t w ill make a m ore e la s tic dough, which fa c ilita te s ex­
pansion du rin g baking.
B efore beginning a pate a choux, s if t the flo u r. Line th e sheet pans w ith parchm ent. A s­
sem ble a m ixe r fit te d w ith a bow l and paddle b e fo re the cooking process begins. The p o t
selected fo r cooking the b a tte r needs to be large enough to hold th e liquid, fa t, and flou r,
w ith enough room to s tir v ig o ro u sly w ith no spillage.

1062 B A K IN G A N D P A S T R Y
 pate a choux
D basic formula
Pats a ChoUX lp a rtflo u r
2 parts liquid (by weight)
2 parts egg
1 part fat

method
at-a-glance
Bring th e liqu id and fa t to
a boil, m aking sure th a t the
fa t is m elted.
Water and milk are the two most common liquids used for making
2. Add th e flo u r all a t once pate a choux. Each produces significantly different results; each is best suited
and cook the m ixtu re .
for different uses, depending on your needs.
3. M ix it u n til cool.
4. Add th e eggs gra du ally and Water
m ix th em in. For pate a choux made with water, the temperature of the oven should be re­

5. Pipe o u t th e b a tte r. duced during baking. Start with a higher temperature when you first put the
pastries in the oven. This encourages more steam and greater expansion of the
6. Bake th e item s. dough. After the dough is fully puffed, lower the temperature to dry out the
pastry completely, for a very light and crisp result.

Milk
Milk causes the pastry to brown more quickly, before the pastry has a chance
to completely dry out. The result is that pate a choux made with milk will be
slightly moist and tender. The solids present in milk will also impart more flavor.

Half each
Depending on your needs, you can also make pate a choux with half water and
half milk for a result somewhere between the two.

Other ingredients can be added to change the flavor and appear­

ance of the pate a choux:

CHEESE / FRESH HERBS / DRIED SPICES / COCOA POWDER (SUBSTITUTE FOR 2

O Z /5 7 G OF THE FLOUR AND INCREASE SUGAR BY l V i O Z /4 3 G)

Raw ba tte r may be piped and frozen. Baked pate a choux can be frozen
and refreshed in the oven.

Chapter 33 » P A S T R Y D O U G H S A N D B A T T E R S 1063
 1. bring the liquid and butter to a
fu ll boil. Add th e flo u r all a t once and cook, s tirrin g con­
sta n tly . Be sure to have th e liq u id a t a ro llin g bo il b e fo re
adding th e flo u r. As pa te a choux is s tirre d and cooked, a
film s ta rts to develop on th e b o tto m o f th e pan. Cook u n til
th e m ix tu re pulls aw ay fro m th e pan, fo rm in g a ball. Trans­
fe r th e m ix tu re to a m ixe r bowl. Using the paddle, m ix th e
dough f o r a fe w m in utes to cool it s lig h tly . This w ill p re ­
ven t the heat o f th e dough fro m c o o k in g th e eggs as they
are w o rked in to th e m ixtu re .
The eggs should be added gradually, in th re e o r fo u r
ad d itio n s, w o rk in g th e dough u n til it is sm oo th each tim e.
Scrape down th e sides and b o tto m o f th e bow l as neces­
sary. C ontinue to add eggs g ra du ally checking th e con­
sistency. S top ad ding eggs when th e choux slo w ly slides
down th e paddle.

2. pipe the dough o n to prepared sheet pans

acco rding to th e de sire d re s u lt and egg wash, if desired.
A llo w th e choux to re s t f o r 2 0 m in utes in th e open a ir to
develop a skin; th is helps m aintain th e shape du rin g the
baking process. Bake u n til th e dough is p u ffe d and golden
brown, w ith no beads o f m o istu re on th e sides.
Begin by baking at a high te m p e ra tu re (37 5° to
4 0 0 °F /1 9 1 ° to 204°C ). Reduce th e heat to 3 2 5 °F /1 6 3 °C
once the dough begins to ta ke on color. Continue to bake
th e pate a choux u n til it is c o m p le te ly dry. Remove fro m
th e oven.

1064 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
 13
P >
c+
3. evaluate th e baked pa te a choux. When p ro p ­ O)
e rly p re pa red and baked, pate a choux has a d e fin ite g o ld ­
P '
en co lo r because o f th e high p ro p o rtio n o f eggs. This co lo r
does n o t change d ra s tic a lly du rin g baking. The dough w ill n

have sw elled to several tim e s its o rig in a l volum e durin g tr

baking. P ro p e rly baked pate a choux appears p e rfe c tly o
dry, w ith o u t m o istu re beads on th e sides o r to p . P rop er c
baking produces a dry, d e lic a te te x tu re . Eggs should be
th e p re d o m in a n t fla v o r o f p a te a choux.
Remove th e m o is t in te rio r b e fo re ad ding fillin g fo r
eclairs o r p u ffs o f any kind.

c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS 1065
 guidelines for shaping and baking cookies
Cookies are prepared in many d iffe re n t ways: piped, scooped, sliced, and m olded, to name
ju s t a few . They are o fte n served a t receptions, as p a rt o f a d e sse rt b u ffe t, o r w ith ice
cream o r sorb et. An a s s o rtm e n t o f cookies m ig h t be presented a t the end o f a meal as an
appealing extra.
Cookies contain a high percentage o f sugar, so the oven te m p e ra tu re m ust be ca re fu lly
reg ulated du rin g baking. C onvection ovens, which produce evenly baked item s, are espe­
c ia lly good f o r baking many kinds o f cookies.
Cookie doughs and b a tte rs can be prepared using d iffe re n t m ixing m ethods. Some
m ust be shaped and baked as soon as th e b a tte r o r dough is prepared. O thers need to be
chille d b e fo re th e y are shaped. Prepare the dough or b a tte r as d ire cte d in the recipe and
assem ble the to o ls needed to shape and bake the cookies.

DROP COOKIES

Drop cookies ty p ic a lly spread as th e y bake, so allow enough room fo r the m to expand w ith ­
ou t tou chin g each other. A rrange th e cookies in even row s fo r even baking. Bake drop coo k­
ies a t 3 2 5 ° to B 5 0 °F /1 6 3 ° to 177°C u n til the b o tto m s are golden brow n and the cookies
are baked throu gh b u t s till m oist. Cool on w ire racks and s to re in tig h tly w rapped co n ta in ­
ers a t room te m p e ra tu re , o r fre e ze f o r longer storage.

ROLLED AND CUT COOKIES

Rolled and cut cookies are made fro m s t if f doughs th a t are o fte n allow ed to chill th o r­
oughly b e fo re rollin g. W hile th e dough chills, line she et pans w ith pa rchm e nt paper. Roll
o u t th e dough on a lig h tly flo u re d w o rk surface, using the same tech niq ue as described fo r
ro llin g pie dough (see Lining a Pie o rT a rt Pan, page 1122).
L ig h tly du st the ro llin g pin as you w ork. For som e cookies, the w o rk surface and ro llin g
pin can be du sted w ith co n fe c tio n e rs ' sugar. Very rich and de lica te cookie doughs can be
rolled o u t betw een tw o sheets o f parchm ent. When you have fin is h e d rolling, th e dough
should be even and ge ne rally no m ore than Vs to Vfe in /3 to 4 mm th ick. Be sure th a t the
dough is n o t s tic k in g to the w o rk surface as you ro ll it out.
C u tte rs o f variou s shapes and sizes can be used, or you can cu t th e dough in to shapes
w ith a knife . As you w ork, dip th e c u tte r o r k n ife blade in to a sm all am ount o f flo u r o r con­
fe c tio n e rs ’ sugar to keep it fro m s tic k in g to the dough.
T ransfer the cookies to th e sheet pan and bake in a 3 5 0 °F /1 7 7 °C oven u n til the edges
o f the cookies ju s t s ta rt to tu rn golden. Im m ediately tra n s fe r the m to a w ire cooling rack
to pre ven t ove rcoo king them . S to re these cookies w e ll w rapped o r in a irtig h t con tain ers a t
room te m p e ra tu re .
Shaped cookies are o fte n glazed o r iced. These coatings should be applied a fte r the
cookie is c o m p le te ly cool. If th e cookies are to be fro ze n fo r longer storage, fre e ze them
plain and de cora te o r ice the m a fte r th e y have thaw ed.

T W IC E -B A K E D COOKIES

B is c o tti o r tw ice -b a ke d cookies are a ty p e o fm o ld e d a n d sliced cookie. They are made in to

a ha lf-m o o n -sh a p e d log fo rm e d d ire c tly on lined sheet pans. Once baked, th e b is c o tti are
sliced to make in dividu al cookies. They are re tu rn e d to th e oven on p a rchm e nt-lin ed sheet
pans to lig h tly to a s t and dry.

1066 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
 guidelines for shaping and baking cookies
PIPED COOKIES

Piped cookies are shaped as soon as th e dough is com p le te d, so you should assem ble all
you r e q uipm en t b e fo re s ta rtin g to m ix th e b a tte r. P a stry bags and tip s should be assem ­
bled and th e sheet pans should be greased or lined w ith parchm ent. As soon as th e dough is
p ro p e rly m ixed, tra n s fe r it to the p a s try bag w ith a ru b be r spatula and tw is t the to p o f the
bag to express any a ir pockets. Squeeze th e p a s try bag to fo rm a cookie and release the
pressure on th e bag once it is th e desired size. Arrange the cookies in neat, even row s and
leave som e room f o r th e cookies to spread as th e y bake.

c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS 1067
 1 2

Drop cookies

1 . Drop cookies are o fte n shaped and baked as soon as th e dough is

m ixed, so prepare she et pans by linin g the m w ith pa rchm e nt paper b e fo re
m ixin g th e dough. M o s t d ro p coo kie doughs are prepa red by th e cream ing or
th e fo a m in g m ethod. A v a rie ty o f scoop sizes are com m only used to p o rtio n
coo kie dough. To p o rtio n d ro p cookies w ith a scoop, f ill a scoop o f th e ap­
p ro p ria te size w ith dough and level it o ff, the n release it on to th e p a rch m e n t-
lined she et pan. If in d ica te d in th e fo rm u la , fla tte n th e m ounded dough f o r a
m ore even spread.

2. The dough f o r m ost drop cookies can also be p o rtio n e d by slicin g ra th e r

than scooping; th is m ethod is ve ry e ffic ie n t fo r volum e p ro d u ctio n . To p o rtio n
dough by th is m ethod, scale it in to m anageable p o rtio n s and shape each one
in to a log. W rap th e dough in pa rchm e nt paper or p la s tic wrap, using it to com ­
press th e dough in to a com p act cylinder, and re frig e ra te o r fre e z e u n til firm .
Slice the dough in to u n ifo rm slices.

1068 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
 drop and stenciled cookies
Stenciled cookies

1 . S te n cile d cookies are made fro m a ve ry s o ft b a tte r. The b a tte r can

be pre pa red and held w h ile you assem ble th e to o ls f o r shaping and baking.
S te n cils made o f heavy fle x ib le p la s tic can be purchased, o r you can cu t the m
fro m s tu rd y cardboard. Line she et pans w ith silicon e baking m ats or use an
in ve rte d she et pan th a t has been greased, flo u re d , and the n fro ze n . Freezing
th e pan helps th e grease and flo u r s tic k to th e pan ra th e r tha n com ing o f f on
the coo kie as it is sten cile d.
Lay th e s te n c il on th e p re pa red she et pan and d ro p a sp o o n fu l o f b a tte r
in to th e ste n cil. Spread i t in to an even layer w ith a sm all o ffs e t spa tula o r the
back o f a spoon.

2. Remove th e s te n c il and re p e a t u n til the sheet is fille d . These cookies

do n o t spread, b u t be sure to allow enough room so th a t th e s te n c il w ill n o t
d is tu rb any cookies alrea dy shaped. Bake c a re fu lly, keeping a close eye on th e
cookies.

3. Q uickly press th e h o t cookies in to a concave m old o r over a ro llin g pin

to shape the m in to tu ile s . A lte rn a tiv e ly , shape th e tu ile s over glass o r a PVC
pipe to make th e m in to cups. Tuiles may be used to hold a scoop o f ice cream,
mousse, o r as a d e co ra tive garnish.

c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS 1069
 Basic Pie Dough
(3-2-1)
M akes 6 lb 6 oz/ 2 . 8 g kg
3 lb /1.36 kg all-purpose flour
1 o z/2 8 g salt
2 lb /9 0 7 g butter, cubed, cold
1 lb /4 5 4 g cold water
1 . Com
binetheflourandsaltthoroughly.Usingyour
fingertips,gentlyrubthebutterintotheflourto
formlargeflakesorwalnut-sizepiecesforanex­
tremelyflakycrust,oruntilitlookslikeacoarse
mealforafinercrumb.
2 .A ddthewaterallatonceandmixuntilthedough
justcomestogether.Itshouldbemoistenoughto
holdtogetherwhenpressedintoaball.
3. Turnoutthedoughontoaflouredw orksurfaceand
shapeintoanevenrectangle.W rapthedoughwith
plasticandchillfor20to30minutes.
4 . Thedoughisreadytorolloutnow ,oritmaybe
refrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozenforupto6
weeks. (Thawfrozendoughintherefrigeratorbefore
rollingitout.)
5. Scalethedoughasnecessary,usingabout1oz/28g
ofdoughper1in/3cm°fP'ePandiameter.
6. Torolloutthedough,workonaflouredsurfaceand
rollthedoughintothedesiredshapeandthickness
withsmooth,evenstrokes.
7.Transferthedoughtoapreparedpieortartpan,or
cutandfitintotartletpans.Theshellisreadytofill
orbakeblindnow.
1070 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
B u tte r m ilk Biscuits
M akes 4 0 biscuits
3 lb 8 oz/1.59 kg all-purpose flour
4 o z /1 1 3 g s u g a r
3 o z/8 5 g baking powder
3/ t oz/21 g salt
1 lb /4 5 4 g butter, cubed, cold
8 o z/2 2 7 g eggs
1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g buttermilk
Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed
1. Lineasheetpanw ithparchmentpaper.
2.. Combinetheflour,sugar,bakingpowder,andsalt.
3.Usingyourfingertips,gentlyrubthebutterintothe
dryingredientsuntilthemixturehastheappearance
ofacoarsemeal.
4 . Com binetheeggsandbuttermilk.Addtotheflour
mixture, tossingtocombine.
5. Rolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredw orksurface
toathicknessof1in/3cman(icutoutthebiscuits
witha2-in/5-cmcutter.
6. Placethebiscuitsonthepreparedpanandlightly
brushwitheggwash.
7 Bakeat425°F/2i8°Cuntilgoldenbrow
. n,about15
minutes.
8. Transferthebiscuitstowireracksandcool
completely.
 Cream Scones
M akes 5 dozen scones
5 lb 10 o z/2.55 kg bread flour
1 lb 5 o z /5 9 5 g s u g a r
5 'A o z / 1 4 9 g b akin g po w d e r
2'/4 0 z / 6 4 g s a l t
4 lb 10 oz/2.10 kg heavy cream, cold
6 o z /1 7 0 g m ilk
6 o z/1 7 0 g coarse sugar
1 . Com
binetheflour,sugar,bakingpowder,andsaltin
anelectricmixerandmixonmediumspeedwiththe
paddleuntilwellblended,about5minutes.Addthe
creamandmixjustuntilcombined.
2 . Scalethedoughintoportionsthatare2lb5oz/1.05
kgeachandpateachportionbyhandintoacakepan
orring10in/25cmindiameter. Removethedough
fromthering,placeitonaparchment-linedsheet
pan,andfreezethoroughly
3. Cuteachdiskinto10equalw edgesandplacethe
wedgesonparchment-linedsheetpans. Brushwith
themilkandsprinklewiththecoarsesugar.
4 . Bakeina350°F/i77°Covenuntilgoldenbrow n,20
to25minutes.
5. Coolthesconesonthepansforafewm inutes,then
transferthemtowirerackstocoolcompletely.
Raisin Scones: Add 3 lb/1.36 kg raisins to the dough ju st
before blending in the wet ingredients.
Ham and Cheddar Scones: Omit the milk and coarse sugar.
Add 3 lb/1.36 kgsm all-dice ham, 3 bunches green onions
(chopped), and 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g diced Cheddar cheese to
the flo u r m ixture before blending in the cream.
1072 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
Irish Soda Bread
M akes 4 loaves
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg all-purpose flour
2 'A o z/71 g baking powder
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
l'/4 ts p /4 g s a lt
5 'A o z/1 5 6 g butter, cubed, cold
6 o z/1 7 0 g currants
V2 o z/1 4 g caraway seeds
1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g milk
1. Sifttogethertheflour,bakingpow
der,sugar,and
salt.
2 . Usingyourfingertips,gentlyrubthebutterinto
thedryingredients,untilitistheconsistencyof
cornmeal.
3.A ddthecurrantsandcarawayseedsandtosstogether.
Addthemilkandblenduntilthedoughformsa
shaggymass.
4 . Turnoutthedoughontoalightlyflouredw orksur­
faceandkneadfor20seconds.
5. Scaleintoi-lb/454-gportionsandround.Placeon
aparchment-linedsheetpan.Dustthetopsofthe
loaveslightlywithflourand,withaparingknife,
gentlypressanXontothetopsurfaceofeachloaf.
6. Bakeina425°F/2i8°Covenuntilbrownedandbaked
through,45to60minutes. Totestfordoneness,
insertawoodenskewerintothethickestpartofthe
loaf.Theskewershouldnothaveanycrumbscling­
ingtoit.
7. Rem ovetheloavesfromthepanandcoolthemcom­
pletelyonwireracksbeforeslicingandserving.
 pastry dough and batter recipes
B u tte rm ilk Pancakes Basic W a ffle s: Replace the whole eggs w ith separated eggs.

Makes10servings Mix the egg yolks w ith the butterm ilk, and continue with
steps 2 and 3. Whip the egg whites to m edium -stiff
peaks. Fold the egg whites into the finished batter. Heat
1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g all-purpose flour
a w a ffle iron to 350°F/177°C and grease it lightly with
1 o z/2 8 g baking powder oil. Ladle the b a tte r into the w a ffle iron, close it, and
cook the w a ffle s until golden brown and cooked through,
1 ts p /6 g baking soda
3 to 4 minutes. (The amount o f ba tte r required w ill vary
1 ts p /3 g s a lt according to the size o f the w a ffle iron.)

4 '/2 o z /1 2 8 g sugar Banana Pancakes: Omit 5 oz/142 g o f the butterm ilk. Add
8 oz/227 g chopped bananas.
8 eggs

2 lb /9 0 7 g buttermilk C hocolate Chip Pancakes: Fold 8 o z/2 2 7 g chocolate chips

and 2 V 2 oz/71 g toasted pecans or walnuts into the
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, melted finished batter.

Vegetable oil, as needed B lu eb erry Pancakes: Fold 8 oz/2 2 7 g blueberries into the
ba tte r ju st before cooking the pancakes.

1. Sifttheflour,bakingpow
der,bakingsoda,salt, and O atm eal Pancakes: Replace 2 V 2 oz/71 g o f the flo u r with
sugarintoalargebowl.Makeawellinthecenter. 4 o z /1 1 3 g oatmeal, 1 ts p /2 gground cinnamon, Vats p /

2.. Com binetheeggswiththebuttermilkandmixwell. 0.50 g grated nutmeg, and a pinch of ground cloves.

Pourallatonceintothecenterofthedryingredi­
ents.Mixslowlywithawhiskinacontrolledcircular
motion.
3.A ddthebutterwhenaboutthree-quartersofthedry
ingredientsaremoistened.Continuetomixonly
untilthebutterisworkedin.Donotovermix.
4 . Keepthebattercool,ifm akinglargebatches,by
holdingitoveranicebath,ordividingandkeeping
theextrabatterintherefrigerator.
5. H eatalargeskilletorgriddleovermediumheat,
lightlygreasedwithvegetableoilorclarifiedbutter.
6. Ladleapproximately2V2floz/75mLofbatteronto
thepanforeachpancake.W henbubblesbreakand
thebottomisgoldenbrown,1to2minutes,turn
over.Finishcookingonthesecondside,about1min­
ute. Serveimmediately.

ch a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS 1073
 Fried Bread (Pun)
M akes 10 servings
1 lb 8 o z/6 80 g all-purpose flour
1 tb s p /1 0 g s a lt
B tb sp /4 5 mL vegetable oil, plus
as needed for pan frying
8 o z/2 2 7 g water, warm
1 . Placetheflourinabow
l, sprinklewiththesalt,and
add3tbsp/45mLoil. Graduallyaddthewaterand
kneadthedoughuntilfirm,about5minutes. Cover
thedoughwithamoistclothandletitrestfor15
minutes.
2 .Rollthedoughintoacylinder12in/30cmlongand
portionitinto12equalballs.Usingalittleflourfor
dusting,rolleachpieceofthedoughintoa5-in/
13-cmround.
3. Panfryeachpieceofdough,oneatatim e, inoil
heatedto350°F/i77°Cuntilitpuffsupandbecomes
lightbrown,about40seconds.
4 . Serveim mediately.
1074 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
Johnny Cakes
M akes 10 servings
6 'A o tz lY ll g all-purpose flour
&A o z/1 7 7 g cornmeal
l t s p /3 g s a lt
3 o z /8 5 g s u g a r
3/ t oz/21 g baking soda
V2 o z/1 4 g baking powder
1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g buttermilk
6 eggs, lightly beaten
13A o z/5 0 g butter, melted
2 o z/5 7 g corn kernels, cooked (optional)
3 tb s p /4 5 mL vegetable oil
1. Sifttogethertheflour,cornm
eal, salt, sugar,baking
soda,andbakingpowderintoalargebowl.
2 Inaseparatebow
. l,whisktogetherthebuttermilk,
eggs,andhalfofthemeltedbutter.
3.A ddthewetingredientstothedryingredients.Add
theremainingbutter. Stirwithawoodenspoonto
combine.Thebatterwillbeslightlylumpy.
4 .A ddthecorn,ifusing,andmixwell.
5. H eatagriddleorlargecast-ironskilletuntilmoder­
atelyhotandbrushlightlywithoil.
6. Foreachcake,dropthebatterontothegriddlewith
a2floz/6omLladle. Leaveabout1in/3cm°fspace
betweenthecakes.
7. Cookthecakesuntiltheundersidesarebrow n,the
edgesbegintodry,andbubblesbegintobreakthe
surfaceofthebatter, 3to5minutes.Turnthecakes
andcookthemuntilthesecondsidesarebrown,
about2minutes.
8. Servethecakesimmediatelyorkeepthemwarm,
uncovered,inalowoven.Donotholdthecakeslon­
gerthan30minutes,ortheywillbecometough.
 pastry dough and batter recipes
Crepes Suzette
Makes10servings
3 o z/8 5g su g a r

12 o z/3 4 0 g butter, cubed

3 o z/8 5 g grated orange zest

6 o z/1 7 0 g orange juice

30 Dessert Crepes (recipe follows)

6 o z/1 7 0 g Grand Marnier

6 o z/1 7 0 g brandy or cognac

1 .W
orkinbatchesoflor2servingsatatime.
Sprinklethesugarevenlyacrossthebottomof
apreheatedsuzettepanovermediumheatona
rechaudwithoutallowingthespoontotouchthe
bottom(whichcancausethesugartocrystallize).
2 .A sthesugarbeginstocaramelize,addthebutterat
theoutsideedgesofthepanandgentlyshakethe
pan;thisallowsthebuttertoevenlytemperand
blendwiththesugar.
3.A ddthezestandgentlyshakethepantothorough­
lyblendalltheingredients,whichshouldbecome
alightorangecaramelcolor.
4 .Slow lypourinthejuiceattheoutsideedgesof
thepan,allowingittotemperandblendwiththe
sugar.
5.Shakethepangently,incorporatingalltheingredi­
entsandallowingthesaucetothicken.
6. Sandwichonecrepebetweenaforkandaspoon
andplaceitintothesauce. Flipthecrepeoverto
coattheotherside. Setitasideonaparchment-
linedsheetpan.
7.Repeatw iththeremainingcrepes,movingquickly
sothesaucedoesnotbecometoothick.
8. Removethepanfromtherechaudandaddthe
GrandMarnier. Donotflameit. Returnthepanto
therechaudandshakegently.
9 .Slidethepanbackandforthoverthefrontedgeof
therechaud,allowingthepantogethot.
10.Removethepan,addthebrandy,andtipthepan
slightlytoflame. Shakethepanuntiltheflame top: Ladle the crepe b a tte r while sw irling it to coat the en­

dies. tire surface o f the pan evenly. Be sure th a t the crepe is o f a

11 .Platethreecrepesperportion,shinglingoneover uniform thickness or it w ill cook unevenly.

theother, andcoatwithsauce. bottom : Once the edges turn golden brown, flip the crepe to
finish cooking it.

c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BATTERS 1075
 Dessert Crepes
Makes20to30crepes
4 eggs
1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream
8 o z/2 2 7 g milk
V2 o z/1 4 g vegetable oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g all-purpose flour
2 o z/5 7 g confectioners' sugar
1 ts p /3 g salt
V/2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL vanilla extract
1. Com
binetheeggs,cream,milk,andoilandbeatjust
untilblended.
2.. Sifttheflour,sugar,andsaltintoabow l.
3.A ddthewetingredientsandmixuntilsmooth,
scrapingdownthebowlasnecessary.Addtheva­
nilla. Stirjustuntiltheingredientsareblended
intoarelativelysmoothbatter. (Thebattermaybe
preparedtothispointandrefrigeratedforupto12
hours. Strainthebatterifnecessarybeforecooking
thecrepes.)
4 . Ladleasm allamountofbatterintoapreheated,but­
teredcrepepanovermediumheat, swirlingthepan
tocoatthebottomwithbatter.
5.W henthecrepehasset,turnitoverandfinishon
theotherside.
6. Fillasdesired,rollorfold,oruseinotherdesserts
(seeCrepesSuzette, page1075).
NOTE: The cooked crepes may be cooled, stacked between
parchment paper, and wrapped and refrigerated or
frozen. Thaw frozen crepes before fillin g and folding.
1076 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
P u ff Pastry Dough
Makes8lb12ozli-97kg
2 lb /9 0 7 g bread flour
8 o z/2 2 7 g pastry flour
8 o z/2 2 7 g butter, soft
1 lb 5 o z /5 9 5 g w a te r
1 o z/2 8 g salt
ROLL-IN
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg butter, pliable (60°F/16°C )
4 o z /1 1 3 g bread flour
1 . Placetheflours,butter,w
ater,andsaltintothebowl
ofanelectricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.
2 .M ixonlowspeeduntilasmoothdoughforms,about
3minutes.
3. Shapethedoughintoaroughrectangle.Transferit
toasheetpanlinedwithparchmentpaper,wrapthe
doughinplasticwrap,andallowittorelaxinthe
refrigeratorfor30to60minutes.
4 . Topreparetheroll-in,blendthebutterandflour
onlowspeedwiththepaddleuntilsmooth,about2
minutes. Transferittoasheetofparchmentpaper.
Coverwithasecondsheetandrollintoarectangle
8by12in/20by30cm.Squareofftheedges,cover
withplasticwrap,andrefrigerateuntilfirmbutstill
pliable. Donotallowtheroll-intobecomecold.
5.Tolocktheroll-inintothedough,transferthedough
toalightlyflouredworksurfaceandrollitintoa
rectangle16by24in/41by61cm,keepingtheedges
straightandthecornerssquare. Settheroll-inon
halfofthedoughandfoldtheremaininghalfof
thedoughovertheroll-in.Sealtheedges,turnthe
dough90degrees,androllitintoarectangle16by
24in/41by61cm,makingsuretheedgesarestraight
andthecornersaresquare.
6. Administerafour-fold.Coverthedoughinplastic
wrapandallowittorestfor30to45minutesinthe
refrigerator.
7 Turnthedoughgodegreesfromitspositionbefore
.
itwasrefrigeratedandrollitintoarectangle16by
24in/41by61cm,makingsuretheedgesarestraight
andthecornersaresquare.Administerathree-fold.
Coverthedoughinplasticwrapandallowittorest
for30to45minutesintherefrigerator.
 pastry dough and batter recipes
Repeatthisprocessforatotalof2four-foldsand2 Blitz P u ff Pastry
three-folds,turningthedough90degreeseachtime
beforerollingandallowingthedoughtorestinthe Dough
refrigeratorfor30to45minutes,coveredinplastic Makes5lb/2.2ykg
wrap,betweeneachfold.
Aftercompletingthefinalfold,wrapthedoughin 1 lb /4 5 4 g cake flour

plasticwrapandallowittorestintherefrigerator 1 lb /4 5 4 g bread flour

foratleast1hourbeforeusing. 2 lb /9 0 7 g butter, cubed, cold

3/ t o z /2 1 gsalt

1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g water, cold

1. Com
binethefloursinthebowlofanelectricmixer.
Addthebutterandtosswithyourfingertipsuntilthe
butteriscoatedwithflour.Dissolvethesaltinthe
waterandaddtotheflourallatonce. Mixonlow
speedwiththedoughhookuntilthedoughformsa
shaggymass.
2 .Turnthedoughoutontoaparchm ent-linedsheet
pan.Tightlycoverthemixturewithplasticwrapand
allowittorestintherefrigeratoruntilthebutteris
firmbutnotbrittle,about20minutes.
3. Placethem assonalightlyflouredworksurfaceand
rollitintoarectangleV2in/icmthickandapproxi­
mately12by30in/30by76cm.
4 .Adm inisterafour-fold.Rollthedoughagaintothe
samedimensions.Administerathree-fold.Tightly
wrapthedoughinplasticwrapandallowittorestin
therefrigeratorfor30to45minutes.
5. Repeatthisprocessforatotalof2four-foldsand2
three-folds, refrigeratingandturningthedough90
degreeseachtimebeforerolling.Aftercompleting
thefinalfold,wrapthedoughinplasticwrapand
allowittofirmintherefrigeratorforatleast1hour.
(Thedoughcanbeheldrefrigeratedorfrozen.)

ch a p te r 33 » PA S T R Y D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS 1077
 Basic M u ffin Recipe Bran M uffins
Makesl dozenmuffins Makes1dozenmuffins
13 o z/3 69 g all-purpose flour 12 o z/3 4 0 g bread flour

1 tb sp /9 g baking powder 1 o z/2 8 g baking powder

1 0 '/2 o z /2 9 8 g sugar 8 o z /2 2 7 g s u g a r

2 3/ t o z/7 8 g butter, soft 4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, soft

l'/2 ts p /5 g s a lt lV 2 ts p /5 g s a lt

5 o z/1 4 2 g eggs 4 eggs

5 o z/1 4 2 g buttermilk 8 o z /2 2 7 gm ilk

1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract 2 o z/5 7 g honey

2Vi oz/71 g vegetable oil 2 o z/5 7 g molasses

2 o z/5 7 g coarse sugar 4 o z/1 1 3 g wheat bran

1. Coatthem
uffintincupswithalightfilmoffator
useappropriatepaperliners.
2 . Sifttogethertheflourandbakingpow der.
3. Creamthesugar,butter, andsaltinanelectricm ixer
onmediumspeedwiththepaddle,scrapingdown
thebowlperiodically,untilthemixtureissmooth
andlightincolor,about5minutes.
4 .W hisktogethertheeggs,buttermilk,vanilla,and
oil.Addtothebutter-sugarmixtureintwoorthree
additions, mixinguntilfullyincorporatedaftereach
additionandscrapingdownthebowlasneeded.
5.A ddthesifteddryingredientsandmixonlowspeed
untilevenlymoistened.
6. Scaleabout3oz/85gofbatterintoeachprepared
muffincup,fillingthemthree-quartersfull. Gently
tapthefilledtinstoreleaseanyairbubbles. Sprinkle
withcoarsesugar.
7. Bakeat375°F/i9i°Cuntilaskew erinsertednearthe
centerofamuffincomesoutclean,about30minutes.
8. Coolthemuffinsinthetinsforafewminutes,then
unmoldandtransferthemtowirerackstocool
completely.
C ranberry-O range M u ffin s : Fold in 11 oz/312 gcranberries
(fresh or frozen) and I V 2 o z /4 3 g g ra te d orange zest
a fte r adding the dry ingredients.
1. Coatthem
uffintincupswithalightfilmoffator
useappropriatepaperliners.
2 . Sifttogethertheflourandbakingpow der.
3. Creamthesugar,butter,andsaltinanelectricm ixer
onmediumspeedwiththepaddle,scrapingdown
thebowlperiodically,untilthemixtureissmooth
andlightincolor,about5minutes.
4 . Com binetheeggsandmilkandaddtothebutter
mixtureinthreeadditions,mixinguntilfullyincor­
poratedaftereachadditionandscrapingdownthe
bowlasneeded.Addthehoneyandmolassesand
blenduntiltheyarejustincorporated.
5 .A ddthesifteddryingredientsandthebranandmix
onlowspeeduntilevenlymoistened.
6. Scale3V2oz/99gofbatterintoeachpreparedmuffin
cup,fillingthemthree-quartersfull.Gentlytapthe
filledtinstoreleaseanyairbubbles.
7. Bakeat375^/19i°Cuntilaskew erinsertednearthe
centerofamuffincomesoutclean,about20minutes.
8. Coolthemuffinsinthetinsforafewminutes,then
unmoldandtransferthemtowirerackstocool
completely.

Blu eb erry M u ffin s : Fold in 12 oz/340 g blueberries (fresh

or frozen) a fte r adding the dry ingredients.

1078 BAKING AND PASTRY

 pastry dough and batter recipes
Corn M uffins Banana-Nut Bread
Makes1dozenmuffins Makes6loaves
11 o z/3 1 2 g all-purpose flour 4 lb 4 o z/1.93 kg bananas, very ripe, unpeeled

5 o z/1 4 2 g cornmeal 1 tb s p /1 5 mL lemon juice

2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt 2 lb 13 o z/1.28 kg all-purpose flour

1 tb sp /9 g baking powder 2 ts p /6 g baking powder

4 eggs V* oz/21 g baking soda

8 o z/2 2 7 g milk l ’/4 ts p /4 g salt

6 o z/1 7 0 g vegetable oil 2 lb 13 o z/1 .2 8 kg sugar

2 tb s p /3 0 mL orange juice concentrate 6 eggs

8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar 13 o z/3 6 9 g vegetable oil

1. Coatthem
uffintincupswithalightfilmofbutter
andalightdustingofcornmeal,oruseappropriate
paperliners.
2 . Com binetheflour,cornmeal, salt,andbakingpow­
derinabowlandstirtogetherwithawirewhisk.
3. Com binetheeggs,milk,oil, orangejuiceconcen­
trate,andsugarinanelectricmixerandmixonme­
diumspeedwiththepaddleuntillightincolorand
smooth,about2minutes.
4 .A ddthedryingredientstotheeggmixtureand
blendonmediumspeedjustuntilcombined,scrap­
ingdownthebowlasnecessary.
5. Scaleabout3oz/85gofbatterintoeachprepared
muffincup,fillingthemthree-quartersfull. Gently
tapthefilledtinstoreleaseanyairbubbles.
6. Bakeat400°F/204°Cuntilaskewerinsertednear
thecenterofamuffincomesoutclean,about20
minutes.
7. Coolthem uffinsinthetinsforafewminutes, then
unmoldandtransferthemtowirerackstocool
completely.
Corn bread: Coat a pan 9 by 9 in/23 by 23 cm in diam eter
w ith a light film o f b u tte r and a light dusting o f
cornmeal. Pour the ba tte r into the pan and bake at
400°F/204°C until a skewer inserted near the center
comes out clean, about 50 minutes. Allow the bread to
cool and cut into desired shapes.
8 o z /2 2 7 g pecans
1. Coatsix2-lb/907-gloafpansw ithalightfilmoffat.
2 . Pureethebananasandlem onjuicetogether.
3. Sifttogethertheflour,bakingpow der,bakingsoda,
andsalt.
4 . Com binethesugar,bananapuree,eggs,andoilinan
electricmixerandmixonmediumspeedwiththe
paddleuntilblended.Scrapethebowlasneeded.
5. A ddthesifteddryingredientsandmixjustuntil
combined.Mixinthepecans.
6. Scale1lb14oz/851gofthebatterintoeachprepared
loafpan.Gentlytapthefilledpanstoreleaseanyair
bubbles.
7. Bakeat350°F/i77°Cuntilthebreadspringsback
whenpressedandatesterinsertednearthecenter
comesoutclean,about55minutes.
8. Cooltheloavesinthepansforafewminutes,then
unmoldandtransferthemtowireracksandcool
completely.

chapter 33 » P A S T R Y D O U G H S A N D B A T T E R S 1079
 >e 1081), Blueberry M u ffin s (page 1078),
and Banana-Nut Bread (page 1079)

Pumpkin Bread
Makes4loaves
2 lb /9 0 7 g all-purpose flour
2 ts p /6 g baking powder
3Aoz/21 g baking soda
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
2 ts p /4 g ground cinnamon
13 o z/3 6 9 g vegetable oil
2 lb 12 o z/1.25 kg sugar
2 lb /9 0 7 g pumpkin puree
8 eggs
13 o z/3 69 g water
7 o z /1 9 8 g chopped toasted pecans
1. Coatfour2-lb/go7-gloafpansw
ithalightfilmoffat
oruseappropriatepanliners.
2 . Sifttogethertheflour,bakingpow der,bakingsoda,
salt,andcinnamon.
3. Com binetheoil, sugar,pumpkinpuree,eggs,and
waterinanelectricmixer. Usingthepaddle,mixon
lowspeeduntilfullyblended.
4 .A ddthesifteddryingredientsandblendjustuntil
incorporated,scrapingthesidesofthebowlasnec­
essary.Blendinthenuts.
5. Scalel lb14oz/851gofbatterintoeachpan.Gently
tapthefilledpanstoreleaseanyairbubbles.
6. Bakeina350°F/i77°Covenuntilaskewerinserted
nearthecenterofeachloafcomesoutcleanandthe
centersspringbackwhengentlypressed,1to1V2
hours.
7. Cooltheloavesinthepansforafewm inutes.
Removefromthepansandcoolcompletelyonwire
racksbeforeslicingandservingorwrappingfor
storage.
pastry dough and batter recipes
Pound Cake
Makes4cakes
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g butter
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g sugar
1 o z/2 8 g grated lemon zest
l'/2 t s p /5 g s a lt
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g cake flour
5 o z/1 4 2 g cornstarch
3Ao z/21 g baking powder
2 lb /9 0 7 g eggs
1. Greasefour2-lb/907-gloafpansandlinew
ithparch­
mentpaper.
2 . Creamthebutter, sugar,lem onzest,andsaltinan
electricmixeronmediumspeedwiththepaddle,
scrapingdownthebowlasneeded,untilthemixture
issmoothandlightincolor.
3. Sifttogethertheflour,cornstarch,andbakingpow der.
4.M ixingonlowspeed,addtheeggsalternatelywith
thesifteddryingredientsinthreestages.
5. Scale1lb10oz/737gofbatterintoeachprepared
pan.
6. Bakeina375°F/i9i°Covenuntilaskewerinserted
nearthecenterofthecakecomesoutclean,about
45minutes.
7. Coolthecakesinthepansforafewm inutes,then
unmoldandtransferthemtowireracksandcool
completely.
c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS 1081
 Devil's Food Cake
Makes6cakes(8in/20cmeach)
B lb 13 oz/1.73 kg sugar
2 lb 5 o z/1.05 kg cake flour
VA o z/3 5 g baking soda
2'A ts p /7.50 g baking powder
12 eggs
1 lb 9 o z/7 09 g butter, melted and kept warm
3 lb 2 oz/1.42 kg warm water
2 tb sp /3 0 mL vanilla extract
15 o z/4 2 5 g cocoa powder, sifted
1. Coatsix8-in/20-cmpansw
ithalightfilmoffatand
linethemwithparchmentcircles.
2 . Siftthesugar,flour,bakingsoda,andbakingpow der
intothebowlofanelectricmixer.
3. Blendtheeggsinaseparatebow l.Mixthemintothe
dryingredientsonmediumspeedwiththepaddle
inthreeadditions.Mixuntilfullyincorporatedafter
eachadditionandscrapedownthebowlasneeded.
4 .A ddthebutterandmixuntilevenlyblended.Add
thewaterandvanillaandmix,scrapingdownthe
bowlperiodically,untilasmoothbatterforms.Add
thecocoapowderandmixuntilevenlyblended.
5. Scale2lb3oz/992gofbatterintoeachprepared
pan.
6. Bakeat35O0F/i77°Cuntilaskewerinsertednearthe
centerofacakecomesoutclean,about45minutes.
7. Coolthecakesinthepansforafewm inutes,then
unmoldandtransfertowirerackstocoolcompletely.
1082 B A K IN G A N D PAST RY
Angel Food Cake
Makes5tubecakes(8in/20cmeach)
2 lb 8 o z /1 .1 3 k g s u g a r
V2o z/1 4 g cream of tartar
15'/2 o z/4 3 9 g cake flour
lV 2 ts p /5 g s a lt
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg egg whites
1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract
1. Sprinkletheinsidesoffive8-in/20-cmtubepans
lightlywithwater.
2.. Com bine1lb4oz/567gofthesugarwiththecream
oftartar. Sifttheremaining1lb4oz/567gsugar
withtheflourandsalt.
3. Inthebow lofanelectricmixer,whiptheeggwhites
andvanillatosoftpeaksonmediumspeedwiththe
wirewhip.
4 . Graduallyaddthesugar-creamoftartarm ixtureto
theeggwhites,whippingonmediumspeeduntil
mediumpeaksform.
5. Gentlyfoldthesiftedsugar-flourm ixtureintothe
eggwhitesjustuntilincorporated.
6. Scale15oz/425gofbatterintoeachpreparedtube
pan.
7. Bakeat350°F/i77°Cuntilacakespringsbackw hen
lightlytouched,about35minutes.
8. Inverteachtubepanontoafunnelorlong-necked
bottleonawireracktocool.Alternatively,foreach
cake, invertasmallramekinontopofawirerack
andpropthecakepanupsidedownandatanangle
ontheramekin.Allowthecakestocoolcompletely
upsidedown.
9 . Carefullyrunapaletteknifearoundthesidesofeach
panandaroundthecentertubetoreleasethecake.
Shakethepangentlytoinvertthecakeontothewire
rack.
 pastry dough and batter recipes
Vanilla Sponge Cake Chocolate XS Cake
Makes4cakes(8in/20cmeach) Makes6cakes(8in/20cmeach)
6 o z/1 70 g vegetable oil 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g water

1 tb sp /15 mL vanilla extract 2 lb 1 1'/2 o z/1 .2 3 kg sugar

18 eggs 1 lb 13 o z/8 2 2 g semisweet chocolate, chopped

1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g sugar 2 lb 2 o z/9 6 4 g bittersweet chocolate, chopped

1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g cake flour, sifted 2 lb 11 o z/1.22 kg butter, melted

3 lb 10 o z/1 .64 kg eggs

1. Coatfour8-in/20-cmpansw
ithalightfilmoffat
andlinethemwithparchmentcircles.
2 . Blendtheoilw iththevanilla.
3. Com binetheeggsandsugarinthebowlofanelec­
tricmixer. Setthebowloverapanofbarelysimmer­
ingwaterandwhiskconstantlyuntilthemixture
reachesno°F/43°C.
4 . Putthebow lonthemixerandwhiponhighspeed
withthewirewhipuntilthefoamreachesmaxi­
mumvolumeandisnolongerincreasinginvolume.
Stabilizethefoambywhippingfor15minuteson
mediumspeed.
5. Gentlyfoldintheflour.Tem perintheoilmixture.
6. Scale1lb/454gofbatterintoeachpreparedcake
pan.Thepanshouldbetwo-thirdsfull.
7. Bakeat35O 0F/i77°Cuntilthetopsofthecakes
springbackwhenlightlytouched,about30minutes.
8. Coolthecakesinthepansforafewminutes,
thenunmoldandtransfertowirerackstocool
completely.
C hocolate Sponge Cake: Replace 4 o z /1 13 g o f the flou r
w ith Dutch-process cocoa powder. S ift the cocoa
together w ith the flour.
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vanilla extract
1. Brushtheinsidesofsix8-in/20-cmcakepansw
ith
softenedbutterandlinewithparchmentcircles.
2 . Com binethewaterand1lb13oz/822gofthesugar
inaheavy-bottomedsaucepanandbringtoaboil.
Removefromtheheat, addbothchocolates,andstir
untilthechocolatesaremelted.Stirinthebutter.
Letthemixturecooltoroomtemperature.
3.W hiptheeggs,theremaining14V2oz/411gsugar,
andthevanillainanelectricmixeronhighspeed
withthewirewhip,untillightandfluffy,about4V2
minutes.
4 . Gentlyfoldthechocolatem ixtureintotheegg
mixture.
5. Scale2lb5oz/1.05kgofbatterintoeachprepared
pan.
6. Bakeinawaterbathat350°F/i77°Cuntilthetopsof
thecakesfeelfirm,about1hour.
7. Coolcom pletelyonwireracks,thenwrapinplastic
wrapandrefrigerateovernightinthepansbefore
unmolding.

c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS 1083
 Cheesecake
Makes6cheesecakes(8in/20cmeach)
1 lb 14 o z/851 g Graham Cracker
Crust (recipe follows)
7 lb 8 oz/3.40 kg cream cheese
2 lb 4 o z /1 .0 2 k g s u g a r
'/2 o z/1 4 g salt
16 eggs
5 egg yolks
15 o z/4 2 5 g heavy cream
3 tb s p /4 5 mL vanilla extract
1 . Coatsix8-in/20-cmcakepansw
ithalightfilmoffat
andlinethemwithparchmentcircles.
2 . Press5oz/142gofthecrustm ixtureevenlyintothe
bottomofeachpan.
3. Com binethecreamcheese, sugar,andsaltandmix
inanelectricmixeronmediumspeedwiththe
paddle,occasionallyscrapingdownthebowl,until
themixtureiscompletelysmooth,about3minutes.
4 .W hisktogethertheeggsandeggyolks.Addtothe
creamcheesemixtureinfouradditions,mixinguntil
fullyincorporatedaftereachadditionandscraping
downthebowlasneeded.
5.A ddthecreamandvanillaandmixuntiltheyare
fullyincorporated.
6. Scale2lb8oz/1.13kgofbatterintoeachprepared
pan.Gentlytapthepanstoreleaseanyairbubbles.
7. Bakeinahotw aterbathat325°F/i63°Cuntilthe
centersofthecakesareset, about1hour15minutes.
8. Coolthecakescompletelyinthepansonwireracks.
W rapthecakes,inthepans,inplasticwrapandre­
frigerateovernighttofullyset.
9 .Tounm old,applythegentleheatofalowopen
flametothebottomandsidesofeachcakepan.Run
aknifearoundthesideofthepan.Placeaplastic
wrap-coveredcakecircleontopofthecake,invert,
andtapthebottomofthepantoreleasethecake,if
necessary.Removethepan,peeloffthepaperfrom
thebottomofthecake,andturnitontoacakecircle
orservingplate.
1084 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
Graham Cracker Crust
Makes1lb4oz/567g
14 o z/3 9 7 g graham cracker crumbs
2 A oz/71 g light brown sugar
3 V2 o z/9 9 g butter, melted
Processthecrumbs, sugar,andbutterinafoodpro­
cessorjustuntilcrumbly,about5minutes. Thecrust
isreadytobepressedintopreparedpansandbaked.
Pate a Choux
Makes6lb/2.72kg
1 lb /4 5 4 g milk
1 lb /4 5 4 g water
1 lb /4 5 4 g butter
l'/2 t s p /7 .5 0 g sugar
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt
1 lb /4 5 4 g bread flour
2 lb /9 0 7 g eggs
1. Bringthem
ilk,water,butter,sugar,andsalttoaboil
overmediumheat, stirringconstantly.
2 .Rem ovefromtheheat,addtheflourallatonce,and
stirvigorouslytocombine.Returnthepantomedium
heatandcook,stirringconstantly,untilthemixture
pullsawayfromthesidesofthepan,about3minutes.
3. Transferthem ixturetothebowlofanelectricmixer
andbeatbrieflyonmediumspeedwiththepaddle.
Addtheeggstwoatatime,beatinguntilsmoothaf­
tereachaddition.
4 . Thepateachouxisreadytobepipedandbaked(see
page1064.)
NOTE: Por a drier and deeper blond pate a choux, substitute
an equal amount o f water fo r the milk.
G ougeres (G ruyere Cheese P uffs): A fte r adding all the
eggs to the pate a choux, add lA tsp/0.50 g cayenne and
1 lb /4 54 g grated Gruyere to the dough. Continue mixing
fo r 1 minute. Transfer the dough to a pastry bag with
a plain tip and pipe into domes 3/t in / 2 cm in diameter.
Bake fo r about 35 minutes in a 350°F/177°C oven. Serve
warm or store in a irtig h t containers.

Eclairs
Makes1dozeneclairs
1 lb /4 5 4 g Pate a Choux (recipe precedes)
Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed
1 lb /4 5 4 g Pastry Cream (page 1099)
1 lb /4 5 4 g fondant (see page 1120)
4 o z /1 13 g dark chocolate, melted
Light corn syrup, as needed
1. Pipethepateachouxintocylinders,4in/10cmlong,
onparchment-linedsheetpans,usingano.8plain
pipingtip.Lightlybrushwitheggwash.
2 . Bakeat36o°F/i82°Cuntilthecracksform edinthe
pastriesarenolongeryellow,about50minutes.
3. Coolthepastriestoroomtem peratureonthepans.
4 . Pierceeachendoftheeclairsw ithaskewerorsimi­
larinstrument.
5. Filltheeclairsw iththepastrycreamfromeachend,
usingano.1plainpipingtip.
6. W armthefondantoverahotwaterbath,addthe
chocolate, andthintotheproperviscositywiththe
cornsyrup.
7.Topthefilledeclairsw iththechocolatefondantei­
therbydippingthetopsorbyenrobingthemusing
thebackofaspoon.
C hocolate Eclairs: S ub stitute Chocolate Pastry Cream
(page 1099) fo r the pastry cream.
pastry dough and batter recipes
P ro fite ro le s
Makes1dozenprofiteroles
1 lb /4 5 4 g Pate a Choux (page 1084)
Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed
2 o z/5 7 g sliced almonds
1 o z/2 8 g sugar
12 o z/3 4 0 g Pastry Cream (page 1099)
9 o z/2 5 5 g Chantilly Cream (page 1023)
Confectioners’ sugar, as needed
1. Pipethepateachouxintobulbs, 1V2in/4cmindi­
ameter,ontoparchment-linedsheetpansusingano.
5plainpipingtip.Lightlybrushwitheggwash.
2 . Stickseveralalm ondslicesintothetopofeachbulb
sothattheyprotrudefromthetop.Sprinkleeach
bulblightlywithsugar.
3. Bakeat36o°F/i82°Cuntilthecracksform edinthe
pastriesarenolongeryellow,about50minutes.
4 . Coolthepastriestoroomtem peratureonthepan.
5. Slicethetopoffeachofthebakedpastries. Pipethe
pastrycreamintothebasesusingano.5plainpastry
tip,beingcarefulnottooverfillthem.
6. PipeadoublerosetteofChantillycreamontopof
thepastrycreamusingano.5startip.
7 PlacethetopsofthepastriesontheC
. hantillycream,
andlightlydustwithconfectioners’sugar.
Ice C re a m -F ille d P ro fite ro le s : S ubstitute Vanilla IceCream
(page 1157) fo r the pastry cream. Omit the almonds,
sugar, Chantilly cream, and confectioners'sugar. Slice
the top o ff each pro fite role. Scoop the ice cream using a
no. 50 scoop, and place it in the bases. Replace the tops
on the pastries and serve w ith Chocolate Sauce (page
1129), if desired.
c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS 1085
 1-2-3 Cookie Dough
Makes6lb/2.72kg
2 lb /9 0 7 g butter, soft
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
1 tb sp /1 5 mL vanilla extract
8 o z/2 2 7 g eggs
3 lb /1 .36 kg cake flour, sifted
1 . Creamthebutter, sugar,andvanillainanelectric
mixeronmediumspeedwiththepaddle,scraping
downthebowlperiodically,untilsmoothandlight
incolor.Addtheeggsgradually,afewatatime,
scrapingdownthebowlandblendinguntilsmooth
aftereachaddition.Addtheflourallatonceandmix
onlowspeedjustuntilblended.
2 . Scalethedoughasdesired.W raptightlyandrefriger­
ateforatleast1hourbeforerolling.(Thedoughcan
berefrigeratedorfrozen.)
1086 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
AlmonchAnise Biscotti
Makes32biscotti
10 o z/2 8 4 g bread flour
l t s p / 6 g baking soda
3 eggs
6 '/2 o z /1 8 4 g sugar
l ' / t ts p /4 g salt
1 ts p /5 mL anise extract
7 o z /1 9 8 g whole almonds
2 tb s p /1 2 g anise seeds
1 . Lineasheetpanw ithparchmentpaper.
2 . Sifttogethertheflourandbakingsoda.
3.W hiptheeggs,sugar,salt,andextractinanelectric
mixeronhighspeedwiththewirewhipuntilthick
andlightincolor,about5minutes. Mixinthedry
ingredientsonlowspeedjustuntilincorporated.
4 .A ddthealmondsandaniseseedsbyhandandblend
untilevenlycombined.
5. Formthedoughintoalog4by16in/10by41cmand
placeitonthepreparedsheetpan.
6. Bakeat300°F/i49°Cuntillightgoldenbrownand
firm,about1hour. Lowertheoventemperatureto
275°F/i35°C.Removethepanfromtheovenand
coolfor10minutes.
7. Usingaserratedknife, cutthelogcrosswiseinto
slicesV2in/icmthick.Laythemflatonthesheet
panandbake,turningthebiscottioncehalfway
through,untilgoldenbrownandcrisp,20to25
minutestotal.
8. Transferthebiscottitowireracksandcool
completely.
 Pecan Diamonds
Makes100pieces(1in/3cmeach)
2 lb /9 0 7 g 1 -2 -3 Cookie Dough (page 1086)
PECAN FILLING
1 lb /4 5 4 g butter, cubed
1 lb /4 5 4 g light brown sugar
4 o z/1 1 3 g sugar
12 o z/3 4 0 g honey
4 o z/1 1 3 g heavy cream
2 lb /9 0 7 g pecans, coarsely chopped
1 . Rolloutthedoughtoarectangle14by18in/36by46
cmandVsin/3mmthick.Layitgentlyinahalfsheet
pansothatitcompletelylinesthebottomandsides.
Dockthedoughwithapastrydockerorthetinesofa
fork.
2 . Bakeat350°F/i77°Cuntillightgoldenbrow n,about
10minutes.
3.Tom akethefilling,cookthebutter,sugars,honey,
andcreaminaheavy-bottomedsaucepanover
medium-highheat,stirringconstantly,untilthe
mixturereaches240°F/n6°C.Addthenutsandstir
untilfullyincorporated.Immediatelypourintothe
prebakedcrustandspreadintoanevenlayer.
4 . Bakeat350°F/i77°Cuntilthefillingbubblesor
foamsevenlyacrossthesurfaceandthecrustis
goldenbrown,25to30minutes. Coolcompletelyin
thepan.
5. Usingam etalspatula,releasethesheetfromthe
sidesofthepanandinverttheslabontothebackof
ahalfsheetpan.Transferittoacuttingboard,care­
fullyflippingitoversoitisrightsideup.Trimoffthe
edges.Cutintoi-in/3-cmdiamonds.
1088 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
Chocolate Chunk
Cookies
Makes12dozencookies
4 lb 5 oz/1.96 kg all-purpose flour
r /2 o z/4 3 g salt
1 o z/2 8 g baking soda
2 lb 14 o z/1.30 kg butter, soft
1 lb 14 o z/8 51 g sugar
1 lb 6 o z/6 2 4 g light brown sugar
9 eggs
2 tbsp plus l '/2 ts p /3 8 mL vanilla extract
4 lb 5 o z/1 .9 6 kg semisweet chocolate chunks
1 . Linesheetpansw ithparchmentpaper.
2.. Sifttogethertheflour,salt,andbakingsoda.
3. Creamthebutterandsugarsinanelectricm ixeron
mediumspeedwiththepaddle,scrapingdownthe
bowlperiodically,untilthemixtureissmoothand
lightincolor, about5minutes.
4 . Com binetheeggsandvanilla.Addtothebutter-
sugarmixtureinthreeadditions, mixinguntilfully
incorporatedaftereachadditionandscrapingdown
thebowlasneeded.Mixinthesifteddryingredients
andthechocolatechunksonlowspeedjustuntil
incorporated.
5. ScalethedoughintoiVi-oz/43-gportionsandplace
themonthepreparedpans.Alternatively,scalethe
doughinto2-lb/907-gportions, shapeintologs16
in/41cmlong,wraptightlyinparchmentpaper,and
refrigerateuntilfirmenoughtoslice. Sliceeachlog
into16piecesandarrangeonthepreparedsheet
pansinevenrows.
6. Bakeat375°F/i9i°Cuntilgoldenbrownaroundthe
edges, 12to14minutes.
7. Coolcom pletelyonthepans.
C h e rry-C h o co la te Chunk Cookies: Add 2 lb/907 g chopped
dried cherries along w ith the chocolate.

Mudslide Cookies
Makes 1 2 ‘A dozen cookies
IO V 2 o z/2 9 8 g cake flour
1 o z/2 8 g baking powder
Vi o z/1 4 g salt
4 o z /1 13 g brewed espresso
1 tb sp /1 5 mL vanilla extract
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g unsweetened chocolate, chopped
4 lb/1.81 kg bittersweet chocolate, chopped
IO V 2 o z/2 9 8 g butter, soft
22 eggs
4 lb/1.81 kg sugar
1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g walnuts, chopped
4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg semisweet chocolate chips
1. Linesheetpansw ithparchmentpaper.
2 . Sifttogethertheflour,bakingpowder,andsalt.
3. Blendtheespressoandvanilla.
4 .M eltthechocolatestogetherwiththebutterovera
doubleboiler. Stirtoblend.
5. Beattheeggs,sugar,andcoffeem ixtureinanelec­
tricmixeronhighspeedwiththewirewhipuntil
lightandthick,6to8minutes. Blendinthechoco­
latemixtureonmediumspeed.Mixinthedryingre­
dientsonlowspeedjustuntilblended.Blendinthe
walnutsandchocolatechipsjustuntilincorporated.
6. Scalethedoughinto2-oz/57-gportionsandarrange
themonthepreparedsheetpansinevenrows.
Alternatively,scalethedoughinto2-lb/907-gpor­
tions, shapeintologs16in/41cmlong,wraptightly
inparchmentpaper,andrefrigerateuntilfirm
enoughtoslice. Sliceeachloginto16piecesandar­
rangethemonthepreparedsheetpansinevenrows.
7. Bakeat350°F/i77°Cuntilthecookiesarecrackedon
topbutstillappearslightlymoist, about12minutes.
8. Coolthecookiesslightlyonthepans.Transferto
wireracksandcoolcompletely.
pastry dough and batter recipes
Oatmeal-Raisin
Cookies
M akes 12 dozen cookies
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg all-purpose flour
1 o z/2 8 g baking soda
V2 o z/1 4 g ground cinnamon
V2 o z/1 4 g salt
3 lb /1.36 kg butter, soft
1 lb 3 o z /5 3 9 g s u g a r
3 lb 8 o z/1.59 kg light brown sugar
10 eggs
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vanilla extract
3 lb 3 o z/1 .45 kg rolled oats
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g raisins
1 . Linesheetpansw ithparchmentpaper.
2 . Sifttogethertheflour,bakingsoda,cinnam
on,and
salt.
3. Creamthebutterandsugarsinanelectricm ixeron
mediumspeedwiththepaddle,scrapingdownthe
bowlperiodically,untilthemixtureissmoothand
lightincolor, about10minutes. Blendtheeggsand
vanillaandaddtothebutter-sugarmixtureinthree
additions,mixingaftereachadditionuntilfullyin­
corporatedandscrapingdownthebowlasneeded.
Mixinthesifteddryingredients,oats,andraisinson
lowspeedjustuntilincorporated.
4 . Scalethedoughinto2-ozl^j-gportionsandarrange
themonthepreparedsheetpansinevenrows.
Alternatively,scalethedoughinto2-lb/907-gpor­
tions, shapeintologsi6-in/4i-cmlong,wraptightly
inparchmentpaper,andrefrigerateuntilfirm
enoughtoslice. Sliceeachloginto16piecesandar­
rangethemonthepreparedsheetpansinevenrows.
5. Bakeat375°F/i9i°Cuntilthecookiesarelightgold­
enbrown,about12minutes.
6. Coolthecookiesslightlyonthepans.Transferto
wireracksandcoolcompletely.
c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS 1089
 NutTuile Cookies
Makes25cookies
2 o z/5 7 g blanched almonds
B o z/8 5 g blanched hazelnuts
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
2'/2 o z/71 g all-purpose flour
Pinch salt
4 egg whites
1. Linesheetpansw
ithparchmentpaperorsilicone
bakingmats. Havestencilsandanoffsetspatula
nearby,aswellasshapingimplementssuchascups,
dowels,orrollingpins,dependingonthedesired
shapes.
2 . Com binethealmonds,hazelnuts, andsugarina
foodprocessorandpulsetogrindtoafinepowder.
Addtheflourandsaltandpulseseveraltimesto
combine.Transfertoalargebowl.
3. W hiptheeggwhitesinanelectricmixeronhigh
speedwiththewirewhipuntilmediumpeaksform.
Usingarubberspatula,gentlyfoldtheeggwhites
intothenutmixtureinthreeadditions.
4 . Usingtheoffsetspatulaanddesiredtem plate, spread
thebatteronthepreparedsheetpans.
5. Bakeat375°F/i9i°Cuntilanevenlightbrow n,about
10minutes.
6. Removethetuilesfromtheovenandimmediately
shapethem.Iftheybegintogettoofirm,putthem
backintheovenforafewsecondstosoften,then
formimmediately.
1090 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
Fudge Brownies
Makes1sheetpanor60brownies(2by3in/5by8cmeach)
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g unsweetened chocolate, chopped
2 lb 4 oz/1.02 kg butter
1 lb 1 4 o z /8 5 1 g eggs
4 lb 8 o z /2 .0 4 k g s u g a r
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vanilla
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g cake flour, sifted
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g chopped pecans or walnuts
1. Lineasheetpanw ithparchmentpaper.
2 .M eltthechocolateandbuttertogetheroverapan
ofsimmeringwater. Donotletthemixtureexceed
ho°F/43°C.Removefromtheheatandcooltoroom
temperature.
3. Com binetheeggs,sugar,andvanillaandwhipinan
electricmixeronhighspeedwiththewirewhipun­
tilthickandlightincolor.
4 .A ddthechocolateandbuttertotheeggmixtureus­
ingaliaison(seepage249).
5.Blendone-thirdoftheeggm ixtureintothechoco­
latemixturetolightenit,thenfoldintheremaining
eggmixture. Gentlyfoldintheflour.
6. Foldin1lb/454gofthenuts. Pourontotheprepared
sheetpanandsprinkletheremainingnutsontop.
7. Bakeat350°F/i77°Cfor30m inutesoruntilfirmto
thetouch.
8. Coolthebrowniesinthepanforafewminutes,then
unmoldontoawirerack.Peeloffthepaperandcool
completelybeforecutting.
custards, creams
and mousses
When baked, eggs, milk, and sugar result in a smooth and creamy baked

custard. When stirred together over gentle heat, these same ingredient

become custard sauce. Starches or gelatin can be included to pro d u cd i

textures th a t range from thick but spoonable to a sliceable cream. ^

Folding meringue or whipped cream into the custard or cream

produces a cold mousse, Bavarian, or diplomat cream. For a

souffle, meringue is folded into a base and baked.

 A S IM P LE BAKED CUSTARD CALLS FOR B L E N D IN G EGGS, A LIQ.UID SUCH AS M IL K OR CR EA M , AND

S U G A R A N D B A K IN G U N T I L SET. M A S C A R P O N E , C R E A M C H E E S E , OR A N O T H E R S O F T F R E S H C H E E S E M A Y

BE S U B S T I T U T E D F O R P A R T O F T H E C R E A M T O Y I E L D A R I C H E R A N D F I R M E R R E S U L T , S U C H A S F O R A

C H E E S E C A K E . T h e P R O P O R T I O N O F E G G S A L S O M A Y BE V A R I E D , A S M A Y T H E C H O I C E O F W H O L E E G G S ,

Y O L K S O N L Y , OR A C O M B I N A T I O N O F T H E T W O . U S I N G A L L W H O L E E G G S G I V E S M O R E S T R U C T U R E TO A

C U S T A R D T H A T I S TO BE S E R V E D U N M O L D E D .

baked custards
There are tw o basic m ethods fo r com bining th e in g re d ie n ts to make a baked custard: warm
and cold. For the cold m ethod o f m ixing a custa rd base, th e in g re d ie n ts are sim p ly s tirre d
to g e th e r, then poured in to m olds and baked. This m ethod is e ffe c tiv e f o r sm all batches.
To m ix a custa rd base using th e w arm m ethod, heat th e m ilk o r cream and some o f the
sugar, s tirrin g w ith a wooden spoon, u n til th e sugar is c o m p le te ly dissolved. Add the f la ­
vorings a t th is p o in t and allow the m to steep o f f th e heat and covered, if necessary, long
enough fo r the m to im p a rt a rich, fu ll flavo r. Blend th e eggs and th e rem aining sugar to
make a liaison and b ring th e m ilk o r cream to a boil. W hisking c o n sta n tly, slo w ly add about
o n e -th ird o f th e h o t m ilk a fe w la d le fu ls a t a tim e to th e liaison, to te m p e r it. Once th e lia i­
son is tem pe red , you can add the re s t o f th e h o t m ilk m ore ra p id ly w ith o u t scram bling the
egg m ixture .
Ladle th e custa rd in to m olds (coa t the m w ith a lig h t film o f so fte n e d b u tte r if you in­
ten d to unm old th e custa rd ) and bake the m in a hot w a te r bath. The w a te r bath keeps the
heat co n sta n t and gentle, re s u ltin g in a sm ooth te x tu re in the baked custard. To check the
custa rd fo r doneness, shake th e m old gently: when th e rip ple s on th e surface move back
and fo rth , ra th e r than in con cen tric rings, th e custa rd is p ro p e rly baked.
C a refully rem ove th e m olds fro m th e w a te r bath and w ipe th e m olds dry. Place them
on a cool sheet pan, allow them to cool, and then re frig e ra te them . For crem e caram el, an
ove rnight re s tin g pe rio d (o p tim a lly 2 4 hours) is essential, n o t only to c o m p le te ly se t the
custa rd so it can be unm olded, b u t also to allow th e caram el to liq u e fy in to a sauce.

HOT WATER BATH

Ahotwaterbath,orbain-marie,ensures hotorboilingwatertothepantocome
gentleheatataconstanttemperature, al­ toabouttwo-thirdsoftheheightofthe
lowingforevenbakingorcooking.Using molds.Becarefulnottosplashorpourany
ahotwaterbathforbakingcustardsalso waterintothecustards.
preventsboththeformationofacrustand Aftercustardsareproperlybakedand
crackingofthecustard’ssurface. removedfromtheoven,theyshouldbe
Selectapanwithsidesatleastashigh removedfromthehotwaterbath.This
asthesidesofthemolds.Setthemoldsin willstopthecookingprocessandallowthe
thepanastheyarefilled,leavingabout1 custardstocool. Custardswillcontinueto
in/3cmaroundeachmoldsoitwillbesur­ cookifleftinthehotwaterbathafterthey
roundedbyhotwater. Setthepansecurely areremovedfromtheoven,whichmay
ontheovendeckorrack.Addenoughvery causethemtobecomeoverdone.

1092 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
 custards
C ustards prepared on th e s to v eto p , such as v a n il l a s a u c e , must be s t ir r e d c o n sta n tly

D U R I N G C O O K I N G U N T I L T H E S T A G E O F N A P P E ( c o a t i n g T H E B A C K O F A s p o o n ). C r e a m s A N D P U D D I N G S

T H A T A R E T H I C K E N E D W I T H S T A R C H A N D C O O K E D O N T H E S T O V E T O P M U S T BE S T I R R E D C O N S T A N T L Y

U N T I L T H E Y C O M E T O A F U L L B O I L , B O T H S O T H E S T A R C H IS H E A T E D S U F F I C I E N T L Y TO T H I C K E N T H E

M IX T U R E AND TO REMOVE ANY U N D E S IR A B LE FLAVOR AND M O UTHFEEL THAT UNCOOKED STARCH

C O N T R IB U TE S .

stirred custards,
creams, and
puddings
Some recipes fo r s tirre d custards, creams, and puddings may include w hole m ilk, w hile
oth e rs call f o r heavy cream, lig h t cream, or a com b in ation o f cream and m ilk. Some recipes
use only egg yolks; oth ers use w hole eggs or a blend o f w hole eggs and egg yolks.
It is esp ecially im p o rta n t to have all th e necessary
eq uipm en t assem bled b e fo re beginning, including a heavy-
b o tto m e d p o t o r a bain-m arie, a fin e -m e sh sieve or conical
m eth o d sieve, and con tain ers to hold the fin is h e d ite m during coo l­

at-a-glan ce ing and sto rin g . To cool th e custards, creams, o r puddings

ra p id ly and safe ly, have an ice w a te r bath ready.
1. C a re fu lly scale or m easure all
ing re d ie nts.

2. H eat th e m ilk or m ilk /c re a m

co m bination w ith h a lf o f the
sugar to ju s t below a boil.

3. W hisk to g e th e r the eggs w ith

the rem ainder o f the sugar.

4. Temper the eggs w ith the hot

m ilk, s tirrin g co n s ta n tly and
re tu rn th e te m p e re d eggs to
th e pan.

5. S tirrin g co n sta n tly, cook the

sauce over low heat ju s t u n til
it has reached th e p o in t o f
nappe (185°F).

c h a p te r 34 » CU S TAR D S, C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S 1093
 1. combine the milk w ith h a lf o f the
sugar (and a van illa bean, i f using) and b ring it to a simmer.
C om bine th e egg y olks or eggs w ith the rem aining sugar in
a s ta in le s s -s te e l bowl.
H e atin g th e m ilk o r cream w ith th e sugar dissolves the
sugar fo r a sm oother, s ilk ie r fin is h e d te x tu re . If a vanilla
bean is used to fla v o r the sauce, add th e seeds and the
e m p ty pod to th e m ilk (or cream ) and sugar as it heats.
(Vanilla e x tra c t may be used in ste ad o f van illa beans. Add
th e e x tra c t ju s t b e fo re the sauce is strained.) H eat the
m ilk ju s t to the b o ilin g po in t. Keep an eye on it as it heats
since it can ea sily b o il over as it nears the b o ilin g point.
B ea ting th e eggs and sugar to g e th e r pre ven ts the
eggs fro m coo kin g when th e y are com bined w ith the hot
m ilk. Blend th e in g re d ie n ts w ell w ith a w h isk f o r long
enough to d issolve th e sugar in th e eggs.

method in detail
2. temper the hot milk in to the egg
m ix tu re to produce a sm oo th sauce. Ladle the h o t m ilk
in to th e egg m ix tu re a litt le a t a tim e, s tirrin g c o n sta n tly,
u n til ab o u t o n e -th ird o f th e m ilk or cream m ix tu re has
been blended in to th e eggs. Add th e te m p e re d egg m ix­
tu re to th e re s t o f th e h o t m ilk. Continue to cook the
sauce over low he at u n til it begins to thicken, s tirrin g
c o n s ta n tly to p re ve n t it fro m overcooking. Do not le t the
sauce come to a boil, because th e egg yolks w ill coagulate
w ell below th e b o ilin g po in t. The te m p e ra tu re o f th e sauce
should n o t go above 180°F /82°C , o r it w ill begin to curdle.
The sauce is cooked when it has thicke ne d enough to
coa t the back o f a wooden spoon.

1094 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
 vanilla sauce
3. the finished vanilla sauce should
coa t th e back o f a w ooden spoon and hold a line drawn
th ro u g h it. W hen it reaches th is stage, s tra in it im m e d i­
a te ly th ro u g h a fin e -m e sh sieve in to a container. Cool
the sauce in an ice w a te r ba th i f it is to be held f o r la te r
storag e or served cold, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly as it cools, and
re frig e ra te it im m e d ia te ly. Place a piece o f p la s tic wrap
on th e surface to p re ve n t a skin fro m fo rm in g .
A good van illa sauce is th ic k and g lossy and coa ts th e
back o f a wooden spoon. It shows no signs o f curdling.
This sauce should have a sm ooth, luxurio us m o u th fe e l,
w ith a w e ll-b alance d flavo r.

MAKING ICE CREAM FROM V A N ILLA SAUCE

Thistypeofbaseshouldbeallowedtomature
intherefrigeratoratapproximately40°/4°Cfor
severalhoursbeforefreezing.Thiswillresultina
smoothericecream.
Tochurntheicecream,runthechilledbasedin
anicecreamfreezeronlytosoft-serveconsistency.
Extractitfromthemachine,packintocontainers,
andplaceinafreezerforseveralhourstoallowitto
firmtoaservabletemperatureandconsistency.
Alloftheingredientsaddflavortotheice
cream,buteachonealsoplaysapartindetermin­
ingconsistencyandmouthfeel.Theeggsmakeit
richandsmooth.Forbestresults,useamixtureof
milkandcreamtoavoidhavingtoomuchbutterfat
inthemix.Themilkandcreamallowforincor­
porationofairduringfreezing,givingthefinal
productasmoothermouthfeelandlighterbody.
However,toomuchincorporatedairwilldiminish
theflavor,maketheicecreamtoosoft,andmake
itmeltquickly.Sugarbothaddssweetnessand
lowersthefreezingpointofthebase,keepingthe
icecreamfromfreezingtoohard.
Thereareanumberofdifferentmethodsfor
addingflavoringstoicecreams.Youmaysimply
infusethesaucewithflavorwhileyouaremaking
it. Pureescanbeblendedintothecustardafterit
hascooled,orfoldedintostillsoft,just-churned
icecreamforaswirledeffect.Meltedchocolate
canbeaddedtothestillwarm,just-cookedice
creambase,whilenutpastessuchaspeanutbut­
terandpralinepastecanbeaddedtothemilkand
creamandcookedintothebasemixture.
Somefruitjuicesorfrozenconcentratessuch
aslemon,orange,orpassionfruithaveveryin­
tenseflavor.Addupto8floz/240mLofthese
juicesorfrozenconcentratestothesameamount
ofthebaseasyouwouldpuree,usingjustenough
togivetheproperflavor.Itisnotnecessarytore­
ducethevolumeofliquidinthebase;addingthis
amountofadditionalliquidtoai1A-qt/i.44-Lbatch
willnotnoticeablyaffecttheicecream’stextureor
volume.

ch a p te r 34 » C U S TA R D S , C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S 1095
 T h e n a m e f o r t h is d e l ic a t e d e s s e r t c o m e s f r o m t h e F r e n c h ; t h e w o r d t r a n s l a t e s l it e r a l l y

as "f r o t h y , f o a m y , or l ig h t ." T o m a k e a m o u s s e , an a e r a t in g in g r e d ie n t suc h as w h ip p e d

C R E A M a n d / o r M E R I N G U E IS F O L D E D IN T O A BASE, S U C H A S A F R U I T P U R E E , V A N I L L A S A U C E , C R E A M ,

P U D D I N G , C U R D , S A B A Y O N , O R PA TE A B O M B E ( C O O K E D W H I P P E D EG G Y O L K S ) . T H E B A S E S H O U L D BE

L I G H T A N D S M O O T H S O T H E A E R A T I N G I N G R E D I E N T C A N BE I N C O R P O R A T E D E A S I L Y .

mousse
To make an egg-safe mousse, use pasteurized egg w h ites or a Swiss o r Italian meringue. S ta ­
bilizers such as g e la tin may be used in varying am ounts, depending on the desired result. If
a mousse is stab ilize d w ith gelatin, it w ill begin to se t im m ediately, so prepare all m olds and
serving containers be fore beginning preparation.
W hatever th e fla v o rin g in g re d ie n t used, it should be at room te m p e ra tu re and liquid
enough to fo ld to g e th e r w ith whipped cream a n d /o r egg w h ite s w ith o u t d e fla tin g those
foam s. To prepare chocolate, chop it in to sm all pieces and m e lt it over sim m ering w a te r or in
the m icrowave. Let it cool to room te m pe rature , at which p o in t it should s till be pourable.
Eggs, bo th yolks and w hites, are called fo r in some mousse recipes. C onsult the recipe
and prepare the eggs as d ire cte d . S eparate yolks and w h ite s care fu lly, keeping w h ite s fre e
o f all traces o f yolk. W hites generally w hip to a g re a te r volum e i f th e y are a t room te m p e ra ­
ture. Use a very clean bow l and w ire w hip o r w h isk to b e a t egg w hites.
Cream should be ke p t very cold and w hipped ju s t to s o ft
peaks. Keep w hipped cream v e ry cold i f it is prepared in ad­
vance. For th e b e st volum e in the w hipped cream, ch ill the
m eth o d bow l and w ire w hip o r w h isk b e fo re w h ipp in g th e cream.
Flave a sim m e ring w a te r bath ready to cook egg yolks
at-a-glan ce
and sugar to g e th e r. Use a rub be r spatula to fo ld the mousse
1. C a re fu lly scale or measure all to g e th e r. Have m olds arranged to f ill w ith mousse.

ing re d ie nts. It is im p o rta n t to fla v o r the base well. The base o f the
mousse provides all o f the flavo r. Once the ae ra to rs are
2. H eat th e egg yolks w ith
added, th e fla v o r o f th e base w ill becom e d ilu te d , so make
some o f the sugar, w hisking
sure th e base is ve ry fla v o rfu l to ensure the am ount o f f la ­
u n til th e m ixtu re is th ic k
vo r you desire is carried to th e fin is h e d mousse.
and reaches the proper
To m aintain its s tru c tu re du rin g and a fte r whipping,
te m p e ra tu re .
keep th e cream cold. W hip the cream only to s o ft peaks.
3- W hip or w hisk the egg w hite s A fte r w hipping, th e cream w ill be fo ld e d in to the rem ain­
w ith the rem ainder o f the ing in g re d ie n ts f o r the mousse. If it is w hipped beyond s o ft
sugar. peaks, th is fo ld in g w ill overw hip the cream.
Use a rubber spatula, or sim ilar to o l w ith a broad surface
4 - G ently ligh ten th e yolk
fo r folding. This w ill help retain the volume in the aerators.
m ixtu re w ith some o f the egg
Lightening the base w ith a p o rtion o f the ae rator before fo ld ­
w hites.
ing quickly as w ell as ge ntly w ill also help to retain volume.
5 - C a re fu lly fo ld the rem aining To ensure the lig h te st mousse, it is also im perative th a t
egg w h ite s in to th e yolk the containers or pastries th a t w ill hold the mousse are ready
m ixture. be fore you begin the preparation o f the mousse. As soon as
all the ingredients are fu lly combined, pipe, spread, or pour
the mousse in to the prepared containers.

1096 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
 mousse
1. prepare the flavor ingredients
f o r th e mousse and cool them , if necessary. Some mousse
flavo rin gs are made fro m pureed fru it, sweetened as neces­
sary and strained to remove any fib e rs or seeds. Chocolate,
one o f the m ost popular mousse fla vo rs, is prepared by
chopping the chocolate. B u tte r is added to the chocolate
and they are m elted to g e th e r over sim m ering water. Adding
b u tte r to the chocolate makes it easier to m elt. Take care to
avoid dropping any w a te r in to th e chocolate as it m elts.
The fla v o r base should be s o ft enough to s tir easily
w ith a wooden spoon, and ve ry sm ooth. Blend th e in g re ­
die n ts to g e th e r using a wooden spoon. L e t the m cool to
room te m p e ra tu re b e fo re use.
H eat the egg y olks and sugar to 1 4 5 °F /6 3 °C f o r 15
seconds, w h iskin g co n sta n tly. C om bine the egg yolks and
sugar in a saucepan over a h o t w a te r bath. W hip the m t o ­
g e th e r u n til th ic k and lig h t. The m ix tu re w ill fa ll in ribbons
fro m th e w hip when th e base has reached th e c o rre c t
consistency. A t th is tim e , fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts should
be fo ld e d in. It is im p o rta n t th a t th e fla v o rin g s be liquid
enough to blend easily. Fold in th e fla v o rin g s u n til th e re
are no stre a k s in th e m ixture .
W hip the egg w h ites w ith the rem aining sugar to s t if f
peaks in a com p le te ly clean and dry bowl. Beat the w hites
a t medium speed a t f ir s t to begin to separate the pro te in
strands. Add the sugar in sm all increm ents w ith the m ixer on
high speed u n til the peaks o f the beaten w h ites remain s t if f
and do n o t droop when the b e ater is pulled fro m the bowl.
The w h ites should s till appear shiny, not dry. Fold them into
the yolk m ixtu re g e n tly to keep the maximum volume. Some
chefs like to add the w h ites to the yolks in tw o or m ore addi­
tio n s so th a t the f ir s t a d dition lightens the base. That way,
less volum e is lo s t fro m subsequent additions.
Use a liftin g and fo ld in g m o tio n to avoid d e fla tin g
th e mousse. The fin is h e d m ousse should be w e ll blended
b u t s till re ta in as much volum e as possible. A t th is point,
th e m ousse is ready f o r service o r may be re frig e ra te d ,
covered, f o r a s h o rt pe rio d o f tim e b e fo re service. The
m ousse may be scooped o r piped in to m olds o r con tain ers
f o r p re se n ta tio n .

2. evaluate the finished mousse.

A w ell-m a de m ousse should have an intense, id e n tifia b le
fla vo r, w ith added sm oo th ne ss and richness fro m the
cream. The co lo r should be even th ro u g h o u t each p o rtio n .
M ousses have a lig h t, fo a m y te x tu re due to th e a d d itio n
o f b o th beaten egg w h ite s and w h ipp ed cream. W hen th e
w h ite s and cream are beaten p ro p e rly, th e te x tu re is very
sm oo th and fine .

c h a p te r 34 » C U S TA R D S , C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S 1097
Vanilla Sauce Pastry Cream
M akes 32 fl oz/960 mL M akes 32 fl 02/960 mL

1 lb /4 5 4 g milk 2 lb /9 0 7 g milk

1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream 8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped B o z/8 5 g cornstarch

8 o z /2 2 7 g s u g a r 6 eggs

14 egg yolks 1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract

1. H
eatthemilk,cream,vanillabeanpodandseeds,
andhalfofthesugaruntilthemixturejustreaches
theboilingpoint.
2 . Com binetheeggyolksandtherestofthesugarand
temperthemixtureintothehotmilk.
3. Stirringconstantly,heatslow
lytoi8o°F/82°C.
4 . Rem ovethecustardsauceimmediatelyfromthe
stoveandstrainitthroughafine-meshsievedirectly
intoacontainersetinanicewaterbath.
5. Coolto40°F/4°Candstoreintherefrigerator.
NOTES: This sauce can be cooked over a water bath fo r more
control of the heat source.
S ubstitute 1 tb sp /1 5 mL vanilla extract fo r the vanilla
bean. Add it ju s t before straining the sauce.
All milk or light cream can be used in place o f heavy
cream.
3 o z/8 5 g butter
1. Com
binethemilkwithhalfof thesugarinasauce­
panandbringittoaboil.
2 .Com binetheremainingsugarwiththecornstarch,
addtheeggs,andmixuntilsmooth.
3. Tem pertheeggmixtureintothehotmilkandbring
ittoafullboil, stirringconstantly.
4 . Rem oveitfromtheheatandstirinthevanillaand
butter.Transferittoacleancontainer,placeapiece
ofplasticwrapdirectlyonthepastrycream,andlet
itcooloveranicewaterbath.
5. Thepastrycreamisreadytousenow ,oritmaybe
thoroughlycooledandstoredintherefrigeratorfor
lateruse.
Chocolate P astry Cream: Add 8 o z/2 2 7 g Hard Ganache
(page 1128) to the finished but s till s lightly warm pastry
cream.

B A K IN G A N D PASTRY

Pastry Cream fo r
Souffles
M akes 2 lb 2 oz/g64 g
1 lb 5 o z /5 9 5 g m ilk
6V20z/184g sugar
4 o z/1 1 3 g all-purpose flour
2 eggs
3 egg yolks
1 . Com
bine6floz/i8omLofthemilkwithhalfofthe
sugarinasaucepanandbringtoaboil, stirringgen­
tlywithawoodenspoon.
2.. M eanwhile,combinetheflourwiththeremaining
sugar. Stirringwithawirewhisk,addtheremaining
15floz/450mLofmilk.Addtheeggsandeggyolks,
stirringwiththewhiskuntilthemixtureiscom­
pletelysmooth.
3.Tem pertheeggmixturebyaddingaboutone-third
ofthehotmilk,stirringconstantlywiththewhisk.
Addtheeggmixturetotheremaininghotmilkin
thesaucepan.Continuecooking,vigorouslystirring
withthewhisk,untilthepastrycreamcomestoa
boilandthewhiskleavesatrailinit.
4 . Pourthepastrycreamontoalargeshallowcontainer
orbowl.Coveritwithplasticwrapplaceddirectly
againstthesurfaceofthecream,andcoolitoveran
icewaterbath.
5. Refrigeratethepastrycream ,covered.
c h a p te r 34 » C U S TA R D S , C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S
custard, cream, and mousse recipes
Creme Brulee
Makes10servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g heavy cream
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
Pinch salt
1 vanilla bean
SV2 o z/1 5 6 g egg yolks, beaten
FINISHING
5 o z /1 4 2 g sugar
4V2 o z /1 2 8 g confectioners' sugar
1. Com
binethecream,4oz/113gofthesugar,and
thesaltandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat,
stirringgentlywithawoodenspoon.Removefrom
theheat. Splitthevanillabean,scrapetheseeds
fromthepod,andaddboththepodandseedstothe
cream.Coverandsteepfor15minutes.
2 . Returnthepottotheheatandbringthecreamtoa
boil.
3. Com binetheeggyolksandtherestofthesugarand
temperthemixtureintothehotcream.Strainthe
custardthroughafine-meshsieveandladleitinto
ten6-floz/i8o-mLcremebruleeramekins,filling
themthree-quartersfull.
4 . Bakeinaw aterbathat325°F/i63°Cuntiljustset, 20
to25minutes.
5. Rem ovethecustardsfromthewaterbathandwipe
theramekinsdry.Refrigerateuntilfullychilled.
6. Tofinishthecremebrulee,evenlycoateachcus­
tard’ssurfacewithathinlayer(1/16in/1.50mm)of
sugar.Useapropanetorchtomeltandcaramelize
thesugar.Lightlydustthesurfacewithconfection­
ers’sugarandserve.
1099
 Creme Caramel 4 . Tom
akethecustard,combinethemilkandhalfof
M akes 10 servings
thesugarandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat,
stirringgentlywithawoodenspoon.Removefrom
CARAMEL
theheatandaddthevanilla.Returntotheheatand
2 o z/5 7 g water
bringtoaboil.
5. Blendtheeggsandeggyolks,com binewiththerestof
5 3/ t o z/1 6 3 g sugar
thesugar,andtemperthemixtureintothehotmilk.
CUSTARD 6. Strainthecustardthroughafine-meshsieveand
1 lb 7 o z/6 52 g milk ladleitintothecaramel-coatedramekins,filling
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
themthree-quartersfull.
2 ts p /1 0 mL vanilla extract
7. Baketheram ekinsinawaterbathat325°F/i63°C
4 eggs, lightly beaten
untilfullyset, about1hour.
8. Removethecustardsfromthewaterbathandwipe
3 egg yolks
theramekinsdry.Allowthecustardstocool
completely.
1. Topreparethecaram
el, combinethewaterand 9. W rapeachcustardindividuallyandrefrigeratethem
asmallamountofthesugarinapansetoverme­ foratleast24hoursbeforeunmoldingandserving.
diumheat.Allowthesugartomelt.
10 .Tounm oldthecustards,runasmallsharpknife
2 .A ddtheremainingsugarinsmallincrements, betweenthecustardandtheramekin,invertontoa
allowingittomeltbeforeeachnewaddition. servingplate,andtapitlightlytorelease.
Continuethisprocessuntilallthesugarhasbeen
added.Cookthecarameltothedesiredcolor.
3. Dividethecaram elequallyamongten4-floz/120-
mLramekins, swirlingthecarameltocoatthebot­
toms. Placetheramekinsinadeepbakingdishand
reserve.

UOO BAKING AND PASTRY

 custard, cream, and mousse recipes
Vanilla Ice Cream Diplomat Cream
M akes 48 fl oz/1.44 L M akes 32 fl o z/g 6 o mL

1 lb /4 5 4 g milk 1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream, well chilled

1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream Vi o z/7 g powdered gelatin

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped 2 o z/5 7 g water

7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar 1 lb /4 5 4 g Pastry Cream (page 1099), warm

1 o z/2 8 g glucose syrup

V 4 tsp /1 g salt 1. Beforebeginningpreparation,assem

bleandprepare
thedesiredpastries,containers,ormoldstobeused
15 egg yolks
forthecream.
1.Com
binethemilk,cream,vanillabeanpodand 2 .W hipthecreamtosoftpeaks.Coverandrefrigerate.
seeds,halfofthesugar,thesyrup,andsaltina 3. Bloomthegelatininthew ater.Meltthegelatin.
saucepan.Bringtoasimmerovermediumheat, 4 . Tem perthemeltedgelatinintothepastrycream.
stirringconstantly,7to10minutes. Strainthroughafine-meshsieve.Coolthepastry
2 .Rem ovethesaucepanfromtheheat, cover,and creamoveranicewaterbathto75°F/24°C.
steepfor5minutes. 5. Gentlyblendapproxim atelyone-thirdofthe
3.M eanwhile,blendtheeggyolkswiththeremain­ whippedcreamintothepastrycreammixture.Fold
ingsugar. intheremainingwhippedcream,thoroughlyincor­
4 .Rem ovethevanillabeanpodandreturnthemilk poratingit.
mixturetoasimmer. 6. Immediatelypipethediplomatcreamintothepre­
5.Tem perone-thirdofthehotmixtureintotheegg paredpastriesorcontainers. Coverandrefrigerate
yolks,whiskingconstantly. untilcompletelyset.
6. Addthetemperedeggmixturetotheremaining
hotliquidinthesaucepan,stirringconstantlyover
mediumheatuntilthemixtureisthickenoughto
coatthebackofaspoon,3to5minutes.
7.Straintheicecreambaseintoam etalcontainerin
anicewaterbath.Stiroccasionally,untilitreaches
below40°F/4°C,about1hour.
8. Coverandrefrigerateforaminimumof12hours.
9 .Processthebaseinanicecreamm achineaccord­
ingtothemanufacturer’sdirections.
10.Packtheicecreaminstoragecontainersorm olds
asdesired,andfreezeforseveralhoursorover­
nightbeforeserving.
C hocolate Ice Cream: Before straining the ice cream base,
s tir 6 oz/170 g m elted b itte rsw ee t chocolate into the
mixture.

C o ffe e Ice Cream: S ub stitute 2 oz/5 7g coarsely ground

coffee fo r the vanilla bean.

Raspberry Ice Cream: Omit the milk. A fte r re frig era ting the
ice cream base, s tir in 16 f l o z/4 8 0 mL raspberry puree.

chapter 34 » C U S T A R D S , C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S 1103
 Chocolate Mousse
M akes 10 servings
10 o z/2 8 4 g bittersweet chocolate, chopped
V /i o z/4 3 g butter
5 eggs, separated
2 tb s p /3 0 mL water
2 o z /5 7 g s u g a r
8 o z/2 2 7 g heavy cream, whipped
Rum, as needed (optional)
1. Beforebeginningpreparation,assem
bleandprepare
thedesiredpastries,containers, ormoldstobeused
forthemousse.
2 . Com binethechocolateandbutterandmeltovera
hotwaterbath.
3.Com binetheeggyolkswithhalfofthewaterand
halfofthesugarandwhiskoverahotwaterbath
untilitholdsat145°F/63°Cfor15seconds. Remove
fromtheheatandwhiskuntilcool.
4 . Com binetheeggwhiteswiththeremainingsugar
inamixerbowlandwhiskoverahotwaterbathto
145°F/63°C.Removefromtheheatandwhiptofull
volume.Continuewhippinguntilcool.
5. Usingalargerubberspatula,foldthechocolatem ix­
tureintotheeggyolks.
6. Foldtheeggwhitemixtureintotheeggyolk-choco­
latemixture.
7. Foldinthew hippedcreamandaddtherum,ifusing.
8. Immediatelypipeorladlethemousseintomolds.
1104 BAKING AND PASTRY
Raspberry Mousse
M akes 88 fl oz/2.64 L
1 o z/2 8 g powdered gelatin
10 o z/2 8 4 g water
14 o z/3 9 7 g heavy cream
1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g raspberry puree
5 egg whites
9 o z/2 5 5 g sugar
1. Beforebeginningpreparation,assem
bleandprepare
thedesiredpastries,containers,ormoldstobeused
forthemousse.
2 . Bloomthegelatininthew ater.
3. W hipthecreamtomediumpeaks.Coverand
refrigerate.
4 .W armhalfofthefruitpureeinasaucepan.Remove
itfromtheheat.
5. M eltthegelatin.Addthemeltedgelatintothewarm
pureeandstirtoincorporate. Blendintheremain­
ingpuree. Cooltheraspberrymixtureto70°F/2i°C.
6. Meanwhile,combinetheeggwhitesandsugarina
mixerbowloverapotofsimmeringwaterandheat,
stirringconstantlywithawhisk,untilthemixture
reaches145°F/63°C.Transferthebowltothemixer
andwhipathighspeedwiththewirewhipuntilstiff
peaksform.Continuebeatinguntilthemeringue
hascompletelycooled.
7. Gentlyblendapproxim atelyone-thirdofthe
meringueintotheraspberrymixturetolightenit.
Foldintheremainingmeringue,thoroughlyincor­
poratingit. Foldinthewhippedcream.
8. Immediatelypipeorladlethemousseintothepas­
tries, containers,ormolds.
 Chocolate Souffle
M akes 10 servings
5 o z/1 4 2 g sugar, plus as needed
for ramekin preparation
3 o z/8 5 g butter
10 o z/2 8 4 g bittersweet chocolate, chopped
2 lb 2 o z/9 6 4 g Pastry Cream for
Souffles (page 1099), cooled
3 egg yolks
12 egg whites
1. Coattheinsideoften4-floz/120-m
Lovenproof
ramekinswithafilmofsoftbutter,makingsureto
coattherimsaswellastheinsides,anddustwith
sugar.
2 .Topreparethesoufflebase,m eltthebutterand
chocolatetogetherinabowloverapanofbarely
simmeringwater,stirringgentlytoblend.Blendthe
chocolatemixtureintothepastrycream.Blendin
theeggyolks.
3. Inthebow lofanelectricmixer,whiptheeggwhites
tosoftpeaksonmediumspeedusingthewirewhip.
Graduallysprinkleinthesugarwhilecontinuingto
whip,thenwhipthemeringuetomediumpeaks.
4 . Gentlyblendapproxim atelyone-thirdoftheme­
ringueintothechocolatebase.Foldintheremaining
meringue,thoroughlyincorporatingit.
5. Portionthesoufflem ixtureintotheprepared
ramekins.
6. Bakeat350°F/i77°Cuntilfullyrisen,about20min­
utes.Serveimmediately.
1106 BAKING AND PASTRY
Bread and B utter
Pudding
M akes 10 servings
3 o z/8 5 g raisins
4 f I o z/1 2 0 m L ru m
9 o z/2 5 5 g Brioche Loaf (page 1040)
or Challah (page 1040)
3 o z/8 5 g butter, melted
2 lb /9 0 7 g milk
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
6 eggs, beaten
4 egg yolks, beaten
V2 ts p /2 .5 0 mL vanilla extract
V2 tsp /1 g ground cinnamon
'/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt
1. Placetheraisinsinabow
landaddtherum.Set
asidetoplumpfor20minutes,thendrain.
2 . CutthebreadintoVi-in/i-cmcubes. Placeona
sheetpananddrizzlewiththebutter.Toastina
350°F/i77°Coven,stirringonceortwice,untilgold­
enbrown.
3. Com binethemilkand3oz/85g°fthesugarina
saucepanandbringtoaboil.
4.M eanwhile,blendtheeggs,eggyolks,vanilla,and
theremaining3oz/85gsugartomaketheliaison.
Temperbygraduallyaddingaboutone-thirdofthe
hotmilk,whiskingconstantly.Addtheremaining
hotmilkandstrainthecustardintoalargebowl.
5. A ddthebread,cinnamon,salt,anddrainedraisinsto
thecustard.Soakoveranicewaterbathforatleast 1
hourtoallowthebreadtoabsorbthecustard.
6. Lightlybrushten6-floz/i8o-mLramekinswithsoft­
enedbutter.
7. Ladlethem ixtureintothepreparedramekins, fill­
ingthemthree-quartersfull. Bakeinawaterbathat
350°F/i77°Cuntiljustset,45to50minutes.
8. Removethecustardsfromthewaterbathandwipe
theramekinsdry.Refrigerateuntilfullychilled.
fillings, frosting
and dessert
sauces
There are many options fo r assembling and finishing a cake or fo r
creating the finishing touches to a plated dessert. In adding thes
elements, the chef should always be m indful of marrying all the
flavors and textures, so that they blend with, complement, a
enhance each other. In addition to th e ir role as a dessert a^
they are also used as a basic component o f other i t e m s ^ ^ ^ H H
fro s tin g s ^ jjd s ^ u c e s can be prepared in a variety insistencies to
p **-
cojag^m
p ig m eent a nbb4^ jo t e d on the plate,
n t a range o f dessert items. They ccan
fzzled, s p o o n e ^ j^ p re a d over the main it ^ |^ p j< e Tor pastry.
 B u tt e r c r e a m s are m a d e by b le n d in g s o ft b utter into an e gg-a n d - s u g ar base. B u t t e r c r e a m s

H E L P TO MAKE ELEGANT CAKES AND TORTES. The MANNER IN W H I C H THE EGGS A N D S U G A R ARE

C O M B I N E D , AS W E L L AS W H E T H E R W H O L E EGGS , EGG Y O L K S , OR EGG W H I T E S A R E U S E D , P R O D U C E S A

VA RI ET Y OF BUTTERCREAMS.

buttercream
For all typ e s o f b u tte rc re a m it is im p o rta n t th a t the b u tte r be s o ft and a t room te m p e ra ­
tu re ; hard b u tte r w ill n o t in co rp o ra te to fo rm a cream y sm oo th fro s tin g . To make Swiss
b u tte rcre a m , com bine th e sugar and egg w h ite s and g e n tly w h isk over a sim m e ring hot
w a te r bath u n til th e sugar is dissolved, the m ixtu re is warm , and th e egg w h ite s are fro th y .
N ext w hip th e m ixtu re to fo rm a s t if f peak m eringue, add the b u tte r, and w hip to fo rm the
b u tte rcre a m . Swiss b u tte rc re a m is stab le and good fo r icing cakes and pipin g borders and
decor, b u t i f you w a n t the m o st stab le bu tte rcre a m , use Italian bu tte rcre a m .
To make Ita lia n b u tte rcre a m , have th e s o ft, ro o m -te m p e ra tu re b u tte r, egg w hites, and
sugar ready. Begin by cooking the sugar and w a te r to make a syrup. N ext w hip the egg
w h ite s to s o ft peaks and then add the h o t sugar syrup. A fte r the m ixtu re reaches fu ll v o l­
ume, continue to w hip to cool down the m eringue b e fo re adding th e bu tte r.
Flavorings fo r b u tte rcre a m m ust also be a t room te m p e r­
a tu re and ready to add as soon as the b u tte rc re a m is made.
The fo llo w in g fla vo rin g s are f o r 1 lb /4 5 4 g o f prepared b u t­
m ethod tercrea m :

at-a-glance » 3 o z /8 5 g b itte rsw e et chocolate, m elted and cooled

1. Cook the sugar to s o ft ball » 2 o z /5 7 g w hite or milk chocolate, m elted and cooled
stage.
» 2 o z /5 7 g praline paste, 1 tb s p /1 5 mL brandy, and
2. Whip the egg whites, slowly 1 ts p /5 mL vanilla extract
adding the sugar syrup
while the eggs whip.
3. Gradually add softened
b utter to the base and beat
until smooth.

1108 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
 buttercream
1. to prepare the meringue, com ­
bine sugar and w a te r in a saucepan and b rin g to a boil.
C ontinue to b o il th e sugar syrup w ith o u t s tirrin g u n til
th e te m p e ra tu re reaches 2 4 0 °F /1 1 6 °C . Use a w e t p a s try
brush to w ipe down th e sides o f th e pan to dissolve any
sugar c ry s ta ls th a t splash on to th e sides. ( If th e cry s ta ls
rem ain, th e y w ill a c t as "seeds" and cause th e syrup to
crysta llize .) Use a candy th e rm o m e te r to check th e te m ­
p e ra tu re o f th e syrup. This te m p e ra tu re is also known as
the s o ft ba ll stage. W hen th e syrup reaches th e c o rre c t
te m p e ra tu re , add it im m e d ia te ly to th e egg w h ites.

method in detail
2. as the sugar syrup cooks, whip
th e egg w h ite s on m edium speed. The ideal is to have the
egg w h ite s reach s o ft peaks a t th e same tim e th a t the
syrup reaches 2 4 0 °F /1 1 6 °C . W ith th e m ixe r s till running,
g ra d u a lly pour th e h o t sugar syrup in a th in stre a m in to
th e w h ite s. To p re ve n t s p la tte rin g , add th e syrup so th a t it
pours down th e side o f th e bow l ra th e r tha n on to th e w ire
w hip. Continue to be at th e m ix tu re u n til a firm m eringue
fo rm s and th e m ix tu re cools to room te m p e ra tu re . If the
m eringue is to o hot, it w ill m e lt th e b u tte r as it is added.
Check th e te m p e ra tu re by fe e lin g th e side o f th e bowl. It
should be cool to th e touch.

chapt er 35 » FILLINGS, FROSTI NGS, AND DE S S E RT S AUCE S 1109

 3. gradually add soft butter to the
m eringue base and be at th e m ix tu re u n til a sm ooth, lig h t
b u tte rc re a m fo rm s . As th e b u tte r is f ir s t added, the m e­
ringue w ill fa ll and th e m ix tu re may appear broken. Con­
tin u e to add th e b u tte r in sm all am ounts w ith th e m ixer
running and th e b u tte rc re a m w ill becom e sm oo th and
light.
A t th is p o in t, it is ready to apply to a prepared cake,
o r it may be re frig e ra te d f o r la te r use. B u tte rc re a m takes
on o th e r fla v o rs and odors re a d ily and m ust, th e re fo re ,
be tig h tly covered b e fo re sto rin g . It may be re frig e ra te d
fo r up to 7 days o r fro z e n f o r up to 3 m onths. A llo w chilled
b u tte rc re a m to re tu rn to room te m p e ra tu re and beat it
using th e paddle u n til ve ry sm oo th and lig h t b e fo re using
it to f ill o r f r o s t a cake.
B u tte rc re a m s should be p e rfe c tly sm oo th and s o ft.
They should be sw e et b u t n o t o ve rly sw eet. There should
be no d e te c ta b le grains or pieces o f sugar o r any lumps o f
b u tte r.

Fillings and Icings fo r Layered Cakes

AMOUNT FOR 8-IN/20-CM CAKE AMOUNTFOR 10-IN/25-CM CAKE

fillin g

BUTTERCREAM 12 o z /3 4 0 g 1 lb /4 5 4 g

LEMON CURD 12 o z /3 4 0 g 1 lb /4 5 4 g

ic in g

GANACHE (FOR GLAZING) 12 o z /3 4 0 g 1 lb /4 5 4 g

BUTTERCREAM 12 o z /3 4 0 g 1 lb /4 5 4 j

BAKING AND PASTRY

 cake layering and icing basics
C a k e l a y e r s s h o u l d be a l l o w e d to c o o l c o m p l e t e l y b e f o r e c u t t in g t h e m into l a y e r s .C a k es

TH AT A R E M A D E O F M O R E T H I N N E R L A Y E R S A R E P R E F E R A B L E TO T H O S E WI TH F E W E R , T H I C K E R L A Y E R S ,

B E C A U S E T H E Y HA V E A M OR E U N I F O R M F L A V O R A ND T E X T U R E . F l L L I N G S S P R E A D ONTO L A Y E R S S H O U L D

G E N E R A L L Y BE L E S S T H A N V 2 I n / 1 C M THI CK.

cake layering and

icing basics
B efo re slicin g a cake in to layers, trim any uneven areas fro m th e sides and to p . For the
be st resu lts, use a cake -d e co ra tin g tu rn ta b le and a k n ife w ith a long, thin , se rra te d blade.
S et th e cake on a cake round and then on th e tu rn ta b le . F irst, d ivid e the cake by eye in to
th e desired num ber o f layers. In se rt th e k n ife in to th e side o f th e cake a t th e a p p ro p ria te
level and, holding th e kn ife stea dy and level and slo w in g ro ta tin g th e tu rn ta b le , move the
blade o f th e k n ife in to th e cake to cu t th e layer. Remove th e layer and s e t it aside; re p e a t as
necessary. B e fo re assem bling th e cake, brush any loose crum bs fro m th e layers.
Cake layers may be m oistened w ith a v a rie ty o f syrups, fro m plain sim ple syrup to one
in fu sed w ith spices or a liqueur. The syrup adds m o istu re to d rie r layers such as sponge
cakes, and adds fla v o r as well. Brush th e syrup evenly over th e cu t surface o f each layer
b e fo re it is assem bled. The layers should be m oiste ne d b u t n o t sodden.

m ethod
at-a-glance
Set the cake in the center o f a
turntable.

2. Apply generous icing to the

sides, smoothing to create an
even finish.

3. Continue to ice, working from

the edges of the cake toward
the center.
To finish, smooth the lip o f icing
over and across the top o f the
cake to create a smooth, even
surface.

chapter 35 » F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S llll

 1. use a turntable fo r icing a cake. A tu rn ­
ta b le allow s th e cake to be ro ta te d easily, which aids in
th e a p p lica tio n o f a sm ooth, even layer o f icing. Use e ith e r
a s tra ig h t o r o ffs e t m e ta l spa tula to ice th e cake. The ap­
p ro p ria te le ng th o f th e spatula depends on th e size o f the
cake and personal p re fe ren ce. A fte r fillin g th e cake, place
a generous am o un t o f b u tte rc re a m on to p . Hold a spatula
stea dy and a t a s lig h t angle w h ile spinning th e tu rn ta b le
to apply a sm o o th even layer o f b u tte rc re a m on to p o f the
cake. A llo w th e excess b u tte rc re a m to fa ll down th e sides
o f th e cake.

method in detail
2. to ice the sides o f th e cake, apply a gen­
erous am ount o f icing to th e sides to ease s m o o th in g and
ensure a clean fin is h . To sm oo th th e sides o f th e cake a f­
te r ap p lyin g th e icing, hold a spa tula v e rtic a lly against the
cake a t a 4 5 -d e g re e angle, w ith th e edge o f the spatula
to u ch in g th e icing, and ro ta te the cake ag ainst th e spa­
tula ; th e tip o f th e spa tula should ju s t to u ch th e surface o f
the tu rn ta b le . This w ill n o t only sm oo th th e icing, b u t w ill
also cause som e o f th e excess icing fro m th e sides to rise
above the to p o f th e cake, m aking a lip or ridge.

1112 BAKING AND PASTRY

 cake layering and icing basics
3. work from the edges o f th e cake
to w a rd the center. Hold th e spatula ag ainst th e to p o f the
cake a t a 4 5 -d e g re e angle and sm oo th th e lip o f icing over
and across th e to p to cre a te a p e rfe c tly sm oo th to p and a
sharp angled edge.

4. mark the cake into portions,

if desired, using a s tra ig h t-e d g e d k n ife o r long s tra ig h t
m etal spatula. A lte rn a tiv e ly , garnish may be ap plied by
tre a tin g th e cake to p as a w hole (th is is ty p ic a lly done
to sm a lle r cakes o r to spe cia l occasion cakes). A v a rie ty
o f sim p le garnishes can also be ap plied (such as a shell
b o rd e r o r ro s e tte s ), w ith o r w ith o u t a d d itio n a l garnishes,
such as cho colate c u to u ts, fre s h berries, jam , and th e like.

chapter 35 » F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S 1113

 Ganache, a b le n d o f cream and ch o c o la te , has m any uses. It m a y be u s e d a s a s a u c e o r t o

G L A Z E A C A K E , O R IT M A Y B E W H I P P E D A N D U S E D A S A F I L L I N G A N d / o R I C I NG. G A N A C H E C A N A L S O

B E M A D E W I T H A S T I F F E R C O N S I S T E N C Y , C H I L L E D , A N D R O L L E D I NT O T R U F F L E S . L l G H T G A N A C H E IS

SOMETIM ES USED AS A CHOCOLATE SAUCE.

ganache
There are a num ber o f recipes fo r th is a ll-tim e fa v o rite d e sse rt sauce, and by varying
the p ro p o rtio n s in th e recipe so th a t th e re is m ore chocolate in re la tio n to the am ount o f
cream, a harder ganache can be made. This hard ganache can be paddled and used fo r icing
or fillin g . A dding an even g re a te r am ount o f chocolate w ill produce th e heavy ganache used
to prepare cho colate tru ffle s .
C hocolate fo r ganache should be cut in to ve ry sm all pieces, which fa c ilita te s even
m elting. One o f th e m o st e ffic ie n t ways to chop cho colate is to use a se rra te d knife ; the
se rra tio n causes th e cho colate to break in to sm all shards as it is cut. Use the b e s t-q u a lity
cho colate available to be sure o f a sm ooth, rich ly fla v o re d sauce. Place the chopped choco­
la te in to a h e a tp ro o f bowl. Place th e cream and b u tte r ( if using) in a saucepan and bring to
a boil.
Infusion is an e ffe c tiv e m ethod o f fla v o rin g ganache. Bring the cream to a boil, add
th e fla vo rin g , and rem ove the pan fro m the heat. Cover and allow to stand u n til the fla v o r
has been infused in to th e cream (5 to 10 m inutes). S train, if
necessary. A fte r strain in g, w a te r or m ilk should be added
as necessary to bring the liquid to its o rigin al w e ig h t so the
m ethod fin is h e d ganache w ill be th e p ro pe r consistency. Ideal in­
g re d ie n ts fo r in fu sio ns include teas, herbs, and spices.
at-a-glance D epending on the desired resu lt, liqueurs or s p irits can

Combine the hot cream and be added fo r fla vo rin g . Pastes and com pounds can also be

chocolate. added. Because these are s tro n g ly fla vo re d , the y are usu­
ally added to ta s te to th e fin is h e d ganache.
2. Let the m ixture stand
undisturbed fo r several
minutes.

3. S tir the ganache until the

cream is incorporated and
the m ixture is smooth, thick,
and shiny.

1114 BAKING AND PASTRY

1. combine the cream w ith th e choco­
late. H eat th e cream and pour it over th e chopped choco­
late. A llo w th e m ix tu re to stand, un distu rbed , f o r a fe w
m inutes.

method in detail
2. stir the ganache u n til th e cream is fu lly
in c o rp o ra te d and th e m ix tu re is co m p le te ly sm ooth. A t
th is p o in t, add any de sire d fla v o rin g (fla v o re d liqueurs,
e x tra c ts , o r purees). The ganache is ready to be used now
o r may be re frig e ra te d f o r la te r use.
Ganache should be in te n s e ly fla v o re d , w ith th e choco­
la te fla v o r enriched and sm oo th ed by th e cream. The te x ­
tu re should be c o m p le te ly sm oo th and dense. The m ore
cho colate in th e ganache, th e th ic k e r th e te x tu re w ill be.
Ganache is very g lossy when w arm ed and used as a glaze.
When cooled and w hipped, it becom es m ore opaque w ith
a m a tte -lik e fin is h , lig h te n in g s om ew hat in color. Ingre­
d ie n ts added to fla v o r o r garnish th e ganache should be
a p p ro p ria te , w ith o u t m asking o r ove rw h elm ing th e choco­
late's flavo r.

chapter 35 » FI L L I N GS , F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S lll5
 MAKINGTRUFFLES
Scoophardganacheandrollintosmall
ballsinthepalmofyourhand. Once
thetruffleshaveset,theyarereadytobe
finishedbyrollinginnuts,cocoapowder,
confectioners’sugar,oramyriadofother
ingredients.Togivethetrufflesaglossy
sheenandalongershelflife,coatthemin
temperedchocolate.
Picturedhereisastationforcoating
trufflesintemperedchocolate. Theun­
finishedtrufflesareonthechef'sleft,the
bowloftemperedchocolateisinthecen­
ter,andthecoatedtrufflesareontheright.
Tocoattrufflesintemperedchocolate,
smearasmallamountofthechocolate
inthepalmofyourhand,rollthetruffle
1116 BAKING AND PASTRY
tocoatinathinevenlayer,andplacethe
coatedtrufflesonthefarthestsideofa
parchment-linedsheetpantopreventhav­
ingtopassoverthemandpossiblydrip
chocolateontothem.Allowthechocolate
tocompletelyhardenandthenrepeatthe
processtogiveeachtruffletwocoatingsof
chocolate.
Afterthechocolatesets,thetruffles
shouldbeshinyandwithoutanycracks.
Storeinacool,dryenvironment,butnot
intherefrigerator.Handlingthemoral­
lowingthemtotoucheachotherwillmar
theirglossyfinishwithfingerprintsor
scratches. Ifyoumusthandlethem,wear
glovesandworkcarefully
 working with chocolate
MELTING AND TEMPERING CHOCOLATE

M E L T IN G C H O C O L A T E W henusingamicrowavetomelt
Chocolateispurchasedintemper,butin chocolate,usemediumpowerratherthan
ordertoworkwithit,itmustbemelted highandheatthechocolatefor30-second
andthentemperedagain,sothatasitcools intervals,removingandstirringitaftereach
andsetsitwillreturntothesamestateas intervaltoensureevenheatingandmelting.
whenpurchased.
Toproperlytemperchocolate, itmust T E M P E R IN G C H O C O L A T E
alsobemeltedproperlytoensurethatit Twoofthemostcommonandeasilymas­
isnotoverheated,whichwouldruinthe teredwaystotemperchocolatearethe
qualityofthechocolate. Beforemelting, seedmethodandtheblockmethod.
chocolateshouldbefinelychopped.The Fortheseedmethod,usechoppedtem­
smallerthepieces,themoresurfacearea peredchocolate—approximately25per­
isexposedandthequickerthechocolate centoftheweightofthemeltedchocolate
melts,helpingtopreventoverheating. A tobetemperedshouldbeaddedtothe
hotwaterbathoramicrowaveisbestfor warm(no°F/43°C)meltedchocolateand
meltingchocolate. gentlystirredtomeltandincorporateit.
W henusingahotwaterbath,itisim­ Thewholemassisthenbroughttotheap­
portanttorememberthatmoisture(steam, propriateworkingtemperature.
water,orcondensation)mustnevercome Fortheblockmethod,addasingle
incontactwiththechocolate. Moisture bloc koftemperedchocolatetowarm
causeschocolateto“seize,”ortobecome m eltedchocolateandstirgentlyuntil
thickandgrainy,renderingitunfitfor thedesiredtemperatureisreached.After
temperingandmostotheruses.Forthis thechocolateisbroughtintotemper,the
reason,whenusingadoubleboilerbesure seed,orblockofchocolate, isremoved.
thatthebowlortopofthedoubleboileris Theblockcanbeusedagain.Thismethod
completelydryandfitssnuglyoverthepan issimpleandeffective,butslightlymore
ofwater,formingatightseal. Thewater timeconsumingthanothermethodsof
shouldbesteaminghotbutnotsimmering. tempering.
Gentlystirthechocolateoccasionallyasit W henthechocolateisintemper,it
meltsforevenmelting.Removethechoco­ shou ldevenlycoatthebackofasmallmet­
latefromtheheatpromptlyonceitisfully alsp oon andthensetquicklywithaclear
melted. shin eand nostreaks.

chapter 35 » F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S 1117

 GLAZING CAKES, COOKIES, ORPASTRIES

Setacakethatistobeglazedonacard­
boardcakeroundandapplyasealcoatof
buttercreamorjam,ifnecessary,andchill
untilsetpriortoglazing.Asealcoatisvital
ifthecakehasbeentrimmedorcutand
layered,asitpreventscrumbsfrombeing
incorporatedintotheglaze.
Placethecakeonawirerackovera
cleansheetpan.Havetheglazetepidso
thatitdoesnotmeltthesealcoat(ifone
wasapplied).Theglazeshouldnotbeso
thinthatitrunsoffthecakecompletely.
Pourorladletheglazeoverthecake.Use
anoffsetspatulatoquicklyspreadthe
glazeandcompletelyenrobethesidesof
thecake.Thisstepmustbedonequickly,
beforetheglazebeginstosetup,toavoid
leavingspatulamarksonthesurface.
Gentlytapthewirerackonthesheetpan
tofacilitatetheflowofanyexcessglazeoff
thecake.

1118 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
 working with tondant
F on d an t is t h e tr ad itio n al g la z e for petits f o u r s , ec la ir s , an d d o u g h n u t s , a m o n g other

pas tr ies . M ost kitchens and b a k es h o ps use pu r c h a s e d fo n d a n t . F or fo n d an t to have its

characteristic g lo s s y finish , it m u s t be w a r m e d until it is l i q u i d en o u g h to flow readily

(1 0 5 °F /4 1 °C ).

working with
fondant
Sm all ite m s are ty p ic a lly dipped in to th e fo n d a n t using a d ip p in g fo rk or s im ila r to o l. Larger
ite m s are se t on racks on sheet pans and th e fo n d a n t is poured, ladled, spooned, or drizzled
over them .
Fondant can be fla v o re d and colored as necessary using purees, con cen tra te , choco­
late, o r fo o d co lo rin g gels, liquids, o r pastes.

m ethod
at-a-glance
1. Warm and thin the fondant
until it reaches proper working
tem perature.

2. Flavor and/or color the fondant

as desired, adjusting the
te xtu re as needed.
3. Keep fondant warm during
use and work quickly fo r best
results.

chapter 35 » F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S 1119

 1. fondant is used as th e tra d itio n a l glaze
fo r m any p a s try ite m s such as p e tits fo u rs, eclairs, and
doughnuts. For fo n d a n t to gain its glossy fin ish , it m ust
be p ro p e rly w arm ed u n til it is liquid enough to flo w rea d­
ily. P ro p e rly th in n e d fo n d a n t should be shiny and s lig h tly
tra n sp a re n t. This pro ced ure is known as tem pe rin g.
M o s t kitch e n s and bakeshops use purchased fon dan t.
To pre pa re fo n d a n t so th a t it may be used f o r glazing,
place it in a s ta in le s s -s te e l bow l and m e lt it over a h o t w a­
te r bath. Do n o t le t th e fo n d a n t exceed 10 5°F /41°C . Thin
th e fo n d a n t to th e desired co n siste n cy w ith w arm w ater,
corn syrup, o r a liqueur.

method in detail
2. once melted, plain fo n d a n t can be f la ­
vored a n d /o r colore d as de sire d w ith co lo rin g pastes,
purees, con ce n tra te s, o r chocolate. If using chocolate, fo r
exam ple, s tir th e m e lte d cho colate in to th e fo n d a n t to
fla v o r it. The fo n d a n t may need to be thin ne d again a fte r
th e cho colate has been added.

1120 BAKING AND PASTRY

 orking with tondant
3. keep the fondant warm as you
w o rk and be sure to have a co m p le te glazing setu p ready.
Sm all ite m s such as eclairs are ty p ic a lly dipp ed in to fo n ­
dant. Larger ite m s are se t on w ire racks over she et pans
and th e fo n d a n t is poured, ladled, spooned, o r drizzled
over the item .
Dip the to p o f an e cla ir in to the bow l o f fo n d a n t and
hold it v e rtic a l to a llo w th e excess fo n d a n t to drip o ff.
Use your fin g e r to g e n tly rem ove any excess fo n d a n t th a t
s till rem ains a t th e end o f th e e cla ir b e fo re placing it on a
she et pan.

chapter 35 » F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S 1121

 F ruit fillings are used for m a n y pies and tarts . Th e y are u s u a l ly prepared w ith pitted

O R S L I C E D A N D P E E L E D F R E S H F R U I T . T H E F R U I T IS T Y P I C A L L Y C O M B I N E D W I T H S U G A R A N D A S T A R C H

(f lo u r , A R R O W R O O T , C O R N S T A R C H , O R T A P I O C A ) TO P R O D U C E A F L A V O R F U L F I L L I N G W I T H E N O U G H

B O D Y T O S L I C E I NTO N E A T P O R T I O N S .

making a pie
or tart
Cooked cream or pudding fillin g s should be prepared only a fte r th e pie or ta r t shell has
been com p le te ly prepared, baked, and cooled, so th a t when th e fillin g is ready, it may be
im m e d ia te ly poured in to the shell. Hold all fillin g s a t the c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re fo r th e best
fla v o r and con sisten cy in the fin ish e d pie or ta rt.
A w ide v a rie ty o f to p p in g s are com m only used fo r pies and ta rts , including crum bs or
streuse l, p a s try crust, m eringue, or glazes such as m elte d chocolate, ganache, o r a p rico t
jam . Egg wash is o fte n ap plied to d o u b le -cru st or la ttic e -c ru s t pies o r ta r ts and should
be blended in advance and applied in a thin, even layer w ith a p a s try brush. Pies and ta rts
should be baked on sheet pans to catch any drips. Cool pies on w ire racks.

L I N I N G A PIE OR TA RT PAN

Alw ays w o rk w ith th o ro u g h ly chilled dough. C hilling allow s th e dough to relax, th e fa t to

firm up, and the starches pre se n t in the flo u r to com p le te ly absorb th e liquid.
To ro ll o u t dough, tu rn it onto a flo u re d w o rk surface. L ig h tly d u st th e surface o f the
dough w ith a d d itio n a l flo u r. Using even strokes, ro ll th e dough in to the desired thickn ess
and shape. Turn it occasionally to produce an even shape and to keep it fro m s tic k in g to the
w o rk surface. W ork fro m th e ce n te r to w a rd th e edges, ro llin g in d iffe re n t d irectio ns.

m ethod at-a-glance
i. Carefully line the pie or ta rt 3. Fill the pie with desired
pan w ith prepared dough, fillin g and finish as
keeping the dough chilled necessary.
before and a fte r lining.
4. Bake the finished item as
2. If necessary, parbake the necessary.
crust.

1122 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
 making a pie or tart
1. line the pie or tart pan w ith p a s try
dough. C a re fu lly tra n s fe r th e ro lle d dough in to th e pan.
P o sitio n th e dough so th a t it c o m p le te ly covers th e e n tire
pan. S e ttle th e dough in to th e pan, pre ssin g th e dough
g e n tly ag ainst th e pan. Use a ball o f scrap dough to g e n tly
press th e pie dough in to th e pie pan and dock th e b o tto m
o f th e crust, if necessary. Trim th e excess dough fro m the
rim , leaving enough to seal a to p c ru s t in place, if m aking a
d o u b le -c ru s t pie, o r to pre pa re a flu te d or raised edge fo r
a sin g le -c ru s t pie or ta rt.

method in detail
2. fill and finish the pie as desired.
Some pies and ta r ts are fille d , then baked. O th ers call
f o r th e c ru s t to be baked blind sep ara te ly, e ith e r p a rtia lly
o r fu lly baked (see Blind Baking Pie and T art Shells,
page 1124).
To add a f r u it fillin g to an unbaked pie shell, com ­
bine th e fillin g in g re d ie n ts and m ound th e m in th e shell.
C u s ta rd -ty p e fillin g s should be c a re fu lly poured in to the
shell to ju s t below th e rim o f th e pan.
Some pies, e sp ecially f r u it pies, have a to p as w ell as
a b o tto m crust. Roll o u t th e to p cru s t in th e same m anner
as the b o tto m cru st. C a re fu lly lay th e to p c ru s t over the
pie and cu t ve n ts in it to allow steam to escape. Press the
dough in place around th e rim to seal the to p and b o tto m
crusts. Trim away excess overhang and pinch o r crim p the
edges.
Pies and, less fre q u e n tly , ta rts may be fin is h e d w ith a
la ttic e crust, made by c u ttin g s trip s o f dough and laying
th e m on to p o f th e f illin g t o make a grid. Seal and crim p
th e edges as fo r a d o u b le -c ru s t pie.
Crumb to p p in g s should be a p plied in an even layer
over th e surface o f th e fillin g . A n o th e r fre q u e n t pie t o p ­
ping is m eringue, w hich is piped o n to th e pie in a d e cora­
tiv e p a tte rn or s im p ly m ounded and peaked. The m eringue
is then q u ickly brow ned in a ve ry h o t oven or w ith a to rch .

chapter 35 » F IL LIN G S , F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S 1123


BLIND BAKING PIE AND TART SHELLS
Toblindbakemeanstopartiallyorfully
bakeanunfilledpieortartshell.Pastry
shellsarepartiallyprebakedwhenthetime
requiredtobakethefillingwillnotbelong
enoughtofullybakethecrust. Shellsare
completelyprebakedwhentheyaretobe
filledwithaprecookedfillingoronethat
doesnotrequirecookingorbaking.
Toblindbakeapieortartshell,line
thedoughwithparchmentpaperandfill
itwithpieweights,driedbeans,orrice.
Theweightswillpreventthebottomofthe
crustfrombubblingupandthesidesfrom
collapsingorslidingdownthepansides
duringbaking.
Placethepaninthepreheatedoven.
Theparchmentandweightsneedonlystay
inthepanuntilthecrusthasbakedlong
enoughtoset.Oncethecrusthassetand
1124 B A K IN G A N D P A S T R Y
3. bake the pie. For a d o u b le -c ru s t pie, brush
th e to p c ru s t ve ry lig h tly w ith egg wash and bake the pie
on a she et pan in a h o t oven (4 2 5 °F /2 1 8 °C ) u n til done. In
general, pies and ta rts are baked u n til the cru st is a rich
golden brown. The dough should appear dry. If th e dough
has been ro lle d o u t unevenly, th e th ic k e r p o rtio n s may
appear m o ist, in d ic a tin g th a t the dough is n o t fu lly baked.
F ru it fillin g s should be bubbling. C ustard fillin g s should be
ju s t se t b u t n o t cooked to th e p o in t a t which th e surface
cracks or shrinks away fro m th e crust.
willmaintainitsform(generally10to12
minutesfora9-in/23-cmcrust),remove
theparchmentandweightstoallowthe
crusttobrownevenly.Returnthepanto
theovenandbakethecrustuntilitreaches
thedesiredcolor. Ifthecrustistobebaked
againwithafilling,bakeitjustuntillight
golden.Forafullybakedcrust,bakeitun­
tilitreachesadeepgoldenbrown,about
20totalminutes.
Brushfullyprebakedpastryshellswith
alightcoatingofsoftbutterormelted
chocolatebeforefilling.Thiswillprevent
moistureinthefillingfromseepinginto
thecrustandmakingitsoggyorcausing
ittoloseitscrisptexture.Applyathin
coatingtotheshellusingapastrybrush.
Refrigeratetheshellsothebutterorchoc­
olatehardensfully,thenfilltheshell.
 tilling, trosting, and dessert sauce recipes
Italian Buttercream Apple Pie
Makes3lb4ozh.47kg Makesonedouble-crustpie(9in/23cm)
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)

4 o z /1 1 3 g w a te r 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g Golden Delicious

apples, peeled, cored, and sliced
8 egg whites
5 o z/1 4 2 g sugar
2 lb /9 0 7 g butter, cut into medium chunks, soft
V2 o z/1 4 g tapioca starch
1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract
3A o z/21 g cornstarch

1. Com
bine12oz/340gofthesugarwiththewaterin '/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt

aheavy-bottomedsaucepanandbringtoaboilover tsp /1 g ground nutmeg

V2

medium-highheat,stirringtodissolvethesugar. tsp /1 g ground cinnamon

V2
Onceitreachesaboil,continuecookingwithout
stirringtothesoftballstage(238°F/ii4°C). 1 tb s p /1 5 mL lemon juice

2 .M eanwhile,placetheeggwhitesinanelectricmixer 1 o z/2 8 g butter, melted

fittedwiththewirewhip.
3.W henthesugarsyruphasreachedapproximately 1. Preparethepiedoughaccordingtotherecipedirec­
230°F/ii0°C,whiptheeggwhitesonmediumspeed tions. Dividethedoughintwoequalpieces. Roll
untilfrothy.Graduallyaddtheremaining4oz/113g halfofthedoughVsin/3mmthickandlinethepie
sugarandwhipthemeringuetomediumpeaks. pan.Reservetheotherhalf,wrappedtightlyand
refrigerated.
4 .W henthesugarsyrupreaches238°F/ii4°C,additto 2 .Tosstheappleswiththesugar,tapioca,cornstarch,
themeringueinaslowsteadystreamdowntheside salt,nutmeg,cinnamon,lemonjuice,andbutter. Fill
ofthebowlwhilewhippingonmediumspeed.W hip th epieshellwiththeapplemixture.
onhighspeeduntilthemeringuehascooledtoroom
temperature. 3. Rollouttherem ainingdoughVsin/3mmthickand
5. A ddthebutterinsmallbatches, mixinguntilfully p la ce it o verthe filling.
incorporatedaftereachadditionandscrapingdown 4 . Crimptheedgestosealandcutseveralventsinthe
thesidesofthebowlasnecessary.Blendintheva­ topofthepie.
nilla.Thebuttercreamisnowreadyforuseoritmay 5. Bakeonasheetpanina375^/19i°Covenuntilthe
betightlycoveredandrefrigerated. fillingisbubbling,about45minutesto1hour.
NOTE: See alternative flavoring options on page 1108.
6. Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

chapter 35 » FI L L I N GS , F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S 1125
 Cherry Pie
Makes5pies(gin/23cm)
11 lb 4 o z/5.10 kg frozen pitted cherries
8 lb 12 o z/3.97 kg cherryjuice
6 lb 4 oz/2.83 kg Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)
10 o z/2 8 4 g cornstarch
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g s u g a r
1 o z /2 8 g s a lt
10 o z/2 8 4 g lemon juice
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023)
1 .Allowthecherriestothawovernightinasieveso
thejuicedrainsaway.Catchandreservethejuicein
acontainer.Addtothereservedcherryjuiceifthe
cherriesdidnotyieldenough.
2.. Preparethepiedoughaccordingtotherecipedirec­
tions. Scale1lb4oz/567gforeachpieanddivide
eachintotwopieces. RollonepieceofdoughVsin/3
mmthickandlinethepiepan.Refrigeratethelined
pans. Rollout,wrap,andrefrigeratetheremaining
piecesofdough.
3. Com bine20floz/6oomLofthecherryjuicewith
thecornstarchandstirtodissolve,makingaslurry.
4 . Com binetheremaining3%qt/3.60Lcherryjuice
withthesugarandsaltinasaucepanandbringtoa
boiltodissolve.
5. Slow lyaddtheslurrytothehotcherryjuice, stirring
constantlywithawhisk.Bringthemixturebacktoa
boilandcook,stirringconstantly,untilclear, about1
minute.
6. Foldinthecherriesandlemonjuice.Allowthefill­
ingtocoolcompletely.
7. Scale2lb12oz/1.25kgofthefillingintoeachpie
shell,topwithasecondpieceofpiedough,andseal
theedges. Pricksomeholesinthetopofthepieshell
andbrushwiththeeggwash.
8. Bakeonsheetpansina450°F/232°Covenuntilthe
topofthepieisgoldenbrownandyoucanseethe
fillingbubblinginside,about40minutes.
9 . Servew armoratroomtemperature.
1126 BA K I N G A N D P A S T R Y
Pecan Pie
Makes5pies(gin/23cm)
3 lb 2 o z/1.42 kg Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g pecans
3/2 o z/9 9 g sugar
3'/2 o z/9 9 g bread flour
5 lb /2.27 kg corn syrup
14 eggs
1 o z/2 8 g salt
2 tb sp /3 0 mL vanilla extract
6 o z/1 7 0 g melted butter
1. Preparethepiedoughaccordingtotherecipedirec­
tions. Scale10oz/284gforeachpie. Rollthedough
Vsin/3m mthickandlinethepiepans. Refrigerate
thelinedpans.
2 . Scale4oz/113gofthepecansforeachpieandspread
theminanevenlayerinthebottomofeachunbaked
piecrust.
3. Placethesugarandflourinalargestainless-steel
bowlandwhisktocombine.Addthecornsyrupand
blend.
4 .A ddtheeggs, salt,andvanillaandstiruntilfully
combined.Blendinthebutter.
5. Scale1lb12oz/794gofthem ixtureintoeachpre­
paredpieshell.
6. Bakeonsheetpansina400°F/204°Covenuntilthe
fillinghassetandthecrustisagoldenbrown,about
40minutes.
7. Letcoolcom pletelybeforeserving.
C ranberry-Pecan Pie: S pread2 oz/57gcranberries in an
even layer in the bottom o f each unbaked pie crust
before adding the pecans and fillin g as above.
 tilling, trosting, and dessert sauce recipes
Lemon Meringue Pie Pumpkin Pie
Makes5pies(gin/23cm) Makes5pies(gin/23cm)
B lb 2 o z/1.42 kg Basic Pie Dough (page 1070) 3 lb 2 o z/1.42 kg Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)

2 lb /9 0 7 g water 5 lb /2.27 kg pumpkin puree

2 lb /9 0 7 g sugar 1 lb 2 o z /5 1 0 g s u g a r

'/2 o z /1 4 g s a lt 5 o z/1 4 2 g dark brown sugar

10 o z /2 8 4 g lemon juice '/2 o z /1 4 g s a lt

1 o z/2 8 g grated lemon zest 2V2 ts p /5 g ground cinnamon

6 o z/1 7 0 g cornstarch 2'Ats p /5 g ground ginger

8 o z/2 2 7 g egg yolks 2 V2 ts p /5 g ground nutmeg

4 o z/1 1 3 g butter VAts p /2 .5 0 g ground cloves

Italian or Swiss Meringue (page 1024), as needed 1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g milk

1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g evaporated milk

1. Preparethepiedoughaccordingtotherecipedirec­ 15 eggs
tions. Scale10oz/284gforeachpie.Rollthedough
Vsin/3m mthickandlinethepiepans. Refrigerate 1 . Preparethepiedoughaccordingtotherecipedirec­
thelinedpans. tions. Scale10oz/284gforeachpie. Rollthedough
2 . Blindbakethepieshellsuntilfullycooked(seepage Vsin/3m mthickandlinethepiepans. Refrigerate
1124). Letcoolcompletely. thelinedpans.
3. Com bine1V2qt/1.44Lofthewaterand1lb/454g 2 . Com binethepumpkin,sugars,salt,cinnamon,gin­
ofthesugarwiththesalt, lemonjuice, andzestina ger,nutmeg,andclovesandmixuntilsmooth.Mix
saucepanandbringtoaboil. togetherthemilk,evaporatedmilk,andeggs.Com­
4 . Com binetheremainingsugarandthecornstarch binewiththepumpkinmixture.
andmixthoroughly.Combinetheeggyolkswiththe 3. Blindbakethepieshellsuntilpartiallycooked(see
remainingwaterandmixthoroughly.Combinethe page1124).
twomixturesandblendwell. 4 . Scale1lb14oz/851g°fthepum pkinmixtureinto
5.W henthelemonmixturecomestoaboil, temperin eachprebaked9-in/23-cmpieshell.
theeggyolkmixture. 5. Bakeonsheetpansina375°F/i9i°Covenuntilthe
6. Returnthemixturetoaboil. Boilfor1minute, stir­ fillingissetandthefillingandcrustaregolden
ringconstantly.Stirinthebutter. brownontop,about50minutes.
7. Scale1lb8oz/68ogintoeachprebakedpieshell.
Refrigerateovernightbeforetoppingwithmeringue
andbrowning.Themeringuemaybebrownedusing
eitherthebroileroratorch.

chapter 35 » F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S 1127

 Frangipane Filling Poached Pears
Makes3dozentartlets(3in/8cm) Makes12poachedpears
8 o z/2 2 7 g almond paste 12 small pears

l'/4 o z /B 5 g sugar POACHINGLIQUID

2 eggs 1 lb /4 5 4 g red or white wine
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter 8 o z/2 2 7 g water
l '/2 o z/4 3 g cake flour 8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar

6 cloves (optional)
1. Beatthealm
ondpasteandsugarwiththepaddlein
anelectricmixeronlowspeedtobreakupthepaste. 1 cinnamon stick (optional)

Add1eggandbeatonmediumspeeduntilthereare
nolumps.Addthebutterandcreamwell. 1. Peelthepears.Theym
aybeleftwholewiththestem
2 . Beatintherem ainingegg. intact,orhalvedandcored.
3 .A ddtheflourandmixjustuntilcombined. 2 . Com bineallthepoachingingredientsinasaucepan
andbringtoasimmer,stirringtodissolvethesugar.
4 . Useasafillingfortartshells. 3. Placethepearsinthepoachingliquidandsim mer
untiltheyaretender.Letthepearscoolinthepoach­
ingliquid,drain,anduseasdesired.
Pear Frangipane
Tartlets Hard Ganache
Makes1dozentartlets Makes6V0I2.J2kg
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g 1-2 -3 Cookie Dough (page 1086)
4 lb /2.72 kg dark chocolate, finely chopped
9 o z/2 5 5 g Frangipane Filling (recipe precedes)
2 lb /9 0 7 g heavy cream
12 Poached Pears (recipe follows), halved

Apricot Glaze (page 1130), warm, as needed 1. Placethechocolateinastainless-steelbow

l.
3 o z/8 5 g sliced almonds, toasted and chopped 2 . Bringthecreamjusttoasim mer. Pourthehot
creamoverthechocolateandallowittostandfor1
1. RolloutthedoughtoathicknessofVsin/3mm- minute.
Usinga4%-in/n-cmcutter,cut12roundsfromthe 3. Stiruntilthechocolateisthoroughlym elted.
dough.Placetheroundsin3-in/8-cmtartringson 4 . Theganachecanbeusedim mediately,oritcanbe
asheetpan.Dockthebottomsofthetartletshells coveredandrefrigerated,thenrewarmed.
withapastrydockerorthetinesofafork.
2 .U singapastrybagfittedwithano.5plainpastry
tip,pipe%oz/21gofthefrangipanefillingintoeach
shell,fillingthemhalfway.
3. Slicethepearsandfanthemontopofthefrangipane.
4 . Bakeat375°F/i9i°Cuntiltheshellsandfillingare
goldenbrown,about45minutes.
5. Coolthetartletstoroomtem perature.
6. Brushthetartletswiththeglaze.Arrangeathinbor­
derofalmondsaroundtheedgeofeachtartlet. Serve.

1128 BAKING AND PASTRY

 tilling, frosting, and dessert sauce recipes
Chocolate Sauce Classic Caramel Sauce
Makes32fl 02/960mL Makes32fl 02/960mL
10 o z/2 8 4 g sugar 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g heavy cream

1 lb /4 5 4 g water 13 o z/3 6 9 g sugar

4'/2 o z/1 2 8 g light corn syrup 10 o z /2 8 4 g glucose

4 o z/1 1 3 g cocoa powder, sifted 2'A o z/6 4 g butter, cubed, soft

1 lb /4 5 4 g bittersw eet chocolate, melted

1. Placethecreaminasaucepanandbringtoaboil
1. Com
binethesugar,water,andsyrupinaheavy- overmediumheat. Leavethepanoververylowheat
bottomedsaucepanandbringtoaboilovermedium- tokeepwarm.
highheat. Removefromtheheat. 2 . Prepareanicew aterbath.
2 . Placethecocoainabow landaddenoughofthehot 3. Com binethesugarandsyrupinaheavy-bottomed
sugarsyruptomakeapaste,stirringuntilsmooth. saucepanandslowlycookovermediumheat,stir­
Graduallyaddtheremainingsyrupandmixuntil ringconstantly,untilallthesugarhasdissolved.Stop
fullyincorporated. stirringandcontinuecookingtoagoldencaramel.
3.A ddthechocolateandblenduntilfullyincorporated. Removefromtheheatandshockthesaucepaninthe
4 . Strainthesaucethroughafine-m eshsieve. icewaterbathtostopthecooking.
5 Servew armorchilled. 4 . Rem ovethesaucepanfromthebathandstirinthe
.
butter. Carefullystirinthehotcream,mixinguntil
fullyblended.
5. Servew armorchilled.
Sabayon
Makes32fl oz/g6omL
18 egg yolks Raspberry Coulis
12 o z/3 4 0 g sugar
Makes32fl 02/960mi
12 o z/3 4 0 g white wine 2 lb /9 0 7 g fresh or frozen raspberries

8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar, or as needed

1. Com
binetheeggyolks,sugar,andwineinamixer
bowlandwhisktogetheruntilthoroughlyblended. 2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed

Placethebowloverapotofsimmeringwaterand
heat,whiskingconstantly,untilthemixtureisthick­
enedandveryfoamyandhasreachedi8o°F/82°C.
2 . Transferthebow ltotheelectricmixerfittedwith
thewirewhipandwhiponmediumspeeduntilcool.
3. Transferthesabayontoacontainerandcoveritw ith
plasticwrapplaceddirectlyagainstthesurfaceto
preventaskinfromforming.Servewarmoratroom
temperature.
NOTE: If desired, whip 2 4 f I oz/720 mL heavy cream to
medium peaks and fo ld it into cooled sabayon.
1 . Com
binetheraspberries, 8oz/227gsugar,and2
tbsp/30mLlemonjuiceinasaucepanovermedium
heat. Simmer, stirring,untilthesugarhasdissolved,
about10minutes.
2.. Strainthecoulisthroughafine-m eshsieve.
3.A ddadditionalsugarand/orlemonjuice, ifnecessary.
NOTE: An equal amount o f another fruit, such as
strawberries or chopped mangos, can be substituted for
the raspberries.

Z abaglione: S ubstitute Marsala fo r the white wine.

chapter 35 » F IL LIN G S , F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S 1129

 Apricot Glaze
M akes 1 lb 91/2 oz/723 g
9 o z /2 5 5 g apricot jam
9 o z /2 5 5 g corn syrup
6 o z/1 7 0 g water
3 tb s p /4 5 mL liquor, such as rum or brandy
1. Com
binealltheingredientsinasaucepan,bringtoa
boil, andstiruntilsmooth.
2 . Usetheglazew hileitisstillwarm,applyingittothe
itemswithapastrybrush.
Dried Cherry Sauce
M akes 1 lb 10 oz/737 g
3 o z/8 5 g sugar
1 3 o z /3 6 9 g re d w in e
6 o z/1 7 0 g water
2 tb sp /3 0 mL orange juice
2 tb sp /3 0 mL lemon juice
1 vanilla bean
4 o z/1 1 3 g dried cherries
V2 o z/1 4 g cornstarch
1. Com
binethesugar, 12floz/360mLofthewine,the
water,orangejuice, andlemonjuiceinasaucepan.
Splitthevanillabean,scrapetheseedsintothepan,
addthepod,andbringthemixturetoaboil. Remove
fromtheheatandaddthecherries.
2 . Refrigerateovernight, covered.
3. Strainthesauce, reservingthecherries. Pourthe
liquidintoasaucepanandbringtoaboil.
4.M eanwhile,makeaslurrywiththecornstarchand
theremaining2tbsp/30mLwine. Graduallywhisk
theslurryintothesauceandbringbacktoaboil,
whiskinguntilthesaucethickensenoughtocoatthe
backofaspoon.
5.Allowthesaucetocooltoroomtem perature.
6. Addthereservedcherriesandserveatonce.
1130 B A K IN G A N D P A S T R Y
Apple Butter
M akes 32 fl oz/960 mL
7 lb /3.18 kg apples
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g apple cider
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
1 tb sp /6 g ground cardamom
2 ts p /4 g ground cinnamon
1 ts p /3 g grated lemon zest
'/■ ttsp /l g salt
1 . Peel, core,andslicetheapples. Com
binethemwith
theciderinalargeheavy-bottomedsaucepan,cover,
andbringtoasimmer. Simmeruntiltheapplesarea
softpulp,about30minutes.
2 .Passtheapplepulpthroughafoodm illintoaclean
saucepan.
3. A ddthesugar,cardamom,cinnamon,zest,andsalt
andsimmer, stirringfrequently,untilverythick,
about2hours.
4 . Coolcom pletely,coverandstoreintherefrigerator.
Fruit Salsa
Makes 2 lb 2 oz /g 6 4 g
5 o z/1 4 2 g papaya, cut into small dice
5 o z/1 4 2 g mango, cut into small dice
5 o z/1 4 2 g honeydew melon, cut into small dice
5 o z/1 4 2 g strawberries, cut into small dice
2 tb s p /3 0 mL passion fru it juice
1 tb sp /3 g finely chopped mint
3 f I o z/9 0 mL am aretto liqueur
8 o z/2 2 7 g orange juice
3 o z/8 5 g sugar
1. Com
binethepapaya,mango,melonstrawberries,
passionfruitjuice,andmint. Setasidetomacerate.
2 . Com binetheamaretto,orangejuice, andsugarand
bringtoaboil. Boiluntilreducedbyhalf.Gently
blendthereducedliquidintothefruit.
3. Refrigerateuntilneeded.
 desserts
When designing a plated dessert, the chef must consider contrasting

and complementing flavors and textures, the color and style,

customer base, specific event or menu needs, and the environment

for preparation and service. Even with all of this in mind, it is

importantto realize that a dessert does not have to be complex

to be flavorful and memorable. There are a number of simple and A

easy ways to dress up a basic dessert. Some simple examples

are the addition of a warm sauce, a frozen element such as ice A

cream, or a simple garnish such as a tuile, candied nuts, or

slices of fruit.
 trends in plated desserts
When designing a d e s s e rt menu, it is e sse n tia l to con­
sid e r c u rre n t tre n d s to keep you r menu fre s h and in te r­
esting. Am ong cu rre n t tre n d s is a re tu rn to m ore ru s tic -
s ty le de sse rts such as g a le tte s and " c o m fo rt fo o d " like
pies and cobblers. The appeal o f the se d e sse rts lies in
th e ir s im p lic ity o f fla vo r, style , and p re se n ta tio n . These
d e sse rts are also ideal fo r p ro d u c tio n in a re s ta u ra n t or
a t a banquet or c a te rin g event, because the y are basic
and sim p le to prepare.
Chefs should also consider trend s being im plem ented
in th e ir menus and tra n s la te th o se concepts in to d e sse rt
item s. As a menu changes seasonally o r w ith tre n d s, so
should th e d e s s e rt menu.

contrast: flavor, taste, texture, temperature,

and eye appeal
The p a s try c o n tra s t ta b le th a t fo llo w s is a visual guide
to un de rsta n d in g th e basic c h a ra c te ris tic s th a t the
ch e f can use in th e c re a tio n o f a p la te d de sse rt. When
co n ce p tu a lizin g de sserts, th in k a b o u t in c o rp o ra tin g a
num ber o f c o n tra s tin g c h a ra c te ris tic s by using d iff e r ­
e n t com ponents, b u t never add com p on ents ju s t to have
a n o th e r co n tra st. The num ber o f com p on ents should
make sense f o r th e d e ssert.
Keep th e idea o f c o n tra s t in m ind when adding new
de sse rts to a cu rre n t menu o r designing a new menu. A
balanced menu should con tain w arm and cold, sw e e t and
ta rt, and rich and lean de sserts.
C om bining c o n tra s tin g elem e nts on one d e sse rt
p la te w ill keep th e pa la te in te re s te d and e xcite d. The
classic apple pie a la m ode is a p e rfe c t exam ple. Think
o f how it re la te s to th e c o n tra s t ta b le : An exce ptio na l
apple pie w ill have a crisp, fla k y c ru s t and perhaps a
fillin g th a t s t ill re ta in s a litt le ta rtn e s s fro m th e apples,
w h ile the ice cream w ill lend its cream y, s o ft te x tu re .
The pie should be served w arm to b ring o u t its fla v o rs
and arom as, as w e ll as to pro vid e te m p e ra tu re c o n tra s t
w ith th e cold ice cream.
C o n tra s tin g e lem e nts in a pla te d d e sse rt are divided
am ong fla v o r and arom a, ta s te , te x tu re , te m p e ra tu re ,
and eye appeal. When using th e cha rt, keep a basic
u n d e rsta n d in g o f cu ltu re and regional a v a ila b ility o f in ­
g re d ie n ts to ensure th e m o st succe ssful com binations.
F lavor and ta s te co m b in a tio n s are the m o st in te rre la te d
com p on ents on th is cha rt. Depending on your selectio n
o f in g re d ie n ts, one w ill n a tu ra lly fo llo w th e other. Also
keep in m ind th a t s w eetness w ill vary only in in te n sity,
b u t w ill be a com p on ent o f all de sse rts to some degree.
The o b je c t o f th e te x tu ra l com p on ent is to have
a balance o f m o u th fe e l— to o much crunch is not

Contrast Table
SEASONALITY FLAVOR AND AROMA TASTE TEXTURE TEMPERATURE PRESENTATION

FALL C hocolate S w e et Crunchy Frozen Shape

SPRING Vanilla S a lty Crisp C hilled Volum e

SUM M ER F ru it B itte r B r ittle Cool C olor

W INTER Spice A cid ic Chewy Room te m p e ra tu re V isual te x tu re

N ut Umami Cream y W arm

Liqu id H ot

Icy

Tender

Cakey

1132 B A K IN G A N D P A S T R Y

n e cessa rily a good th in g . It is also im p o rta n t to be aw are
o f th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e com p on ents on any p la te or
menu. W hile each p la te does n o t ne cessa rily need con­
tra s ts o f te m p e ra tu re , th e ove rall menu should p re se n t
th e fu ll spe ctru m .
restaurant desserts
Use th e c o n tra s t ta b le to help cre a te a re s ta u ra n t menu.
It w ilt help keep every p la te fre sh , d iffe re n t, and original.
Rem em ber th a t som e d e sse rts w ill n o t be p ra c tic a l be­
cause o f you r p a rtic u la r kitch e n setup.
A re s ta u ra n t menu should change w ith every season;
however, you w ill alw ays have a fe w ite m s th a t rem ain
co n sta n t, w ith only th e garnish changing. M a in ta in in g
se a so n a lity w ith you r menu w ill keep b e tte r co sts as
w ell as b e tte r fla v o rs . It w ill also make m a rke tin g easier,
as th e fre s h e s t ite m s w ill have the b e st fla v o rs and w ill
appeal m ore to th e custo m e rs. Use specials to h ig h lig h t
in g re d ie n ts a t th e ir seasonal peak. A good b a ro m e te r
fo r th e success o f a d e s s e rt is how w e ll it sells, b u t also
keep in m ind th a t ite m s th a t d o n't sell w e ll may have a
po or place m ent o r w o rd in g on th e menu; i f th o se are
co rre cte d , an ite m th a t used to be p ro b le m a tic could
becom e one o f th e b e s t sellers.
A key in g re d ie n t to th e success o f any d e s s e rt menu
is th e p re se rvice m ee ting . You have to make th e w a ite rs
aw are o f you r fo o d . They should hear ab o u t it and ta s te
it to becom e excite d ab o u t it. O fte n ite m s th a t sell w ell
are fa v o rite s o f th e w a it s ta ff.
DESSERT STATION MISE EN PLACE
When s e ttin g up a d e s s e rt s ta tio n , w h e th e r f o r a large
banq ue t kitch e n o r a sm all re s ta u ra n t, th e re are several
im p o rta n t co n sid e ra tio n s. The size and co n fig u ra tio n
plated desserts at banquets
In m o s t cases, any d e s s e rt th a t can be pre pa red
and served f o r te n can also be served f o r a hundred.
Flowever, f o r la rg e r-vo lu m e p la tin g , th e ch e f m ust con­
sid e r eq uipm ent, storag e, tim in g o f service, and labor.
When planning a d e s s e rt f o r a banq ue t menu,
con sid er th e general con cep t o f th e de ssert. C e rta in
plated desserts
P re s e n ta tio n does n o t mean th e p la te needs to be
in tric a te ly pre sen te d. Today, one o f th e b ig g e st tre n d s
is to w a rd m inim alism : p re s e n tin g a u th e n tic, natural f la ­
vo rs in as fre s h and sim p le a m anner as possible.
o f th e w o rk area, as w e ll as its lo ca tio n in re la tio n to
th e ovens, re frig e ra to rs , and fre e ze rs, d e te rm in e how
ce rta in jo b s are accom plished. Keep o fte n -u s e d item s
w ith in easy reach and easy to see. Keep e ffic ie n t w o rk ­
flo w in m ind, t o o — as on th e line in th e kitchen, plates
should move in a single d ire c tio n .
Keep sauces in p la s tic squeeze b o ttle s or a fun nel
dropper. These give you m ore c o n tro l over the am ount
and lo ca tio n o f th e sauce on th e p la te or d e sse rt and
make it easy to s to re th e sauces a t th e s ta tio n .
To keep th e s ta tio n clean and san itary, have a con­
ta in e r o f s a n itiz in g s o lu tio n available, as w e ll as clean
clo th s o r pa pe r to w e ls and h o t w a te r to w ipe pla te s be­
fo re th e y leave th e s ta tio n .
PLATING FROZEN DESSERTS
Frozen d e sse rts are an im p o rta n t com ponent o f any
d e s s e rt menu. W hile fro z e n de sse rts are com m only used
as c o m p le m e n ta ry com p on ents o f variou s pla te d des­
se rts, th e y can also serve as th e main com ponent. They
can be produced in many and va ried fla v o rs , are suita ble
fo r use w ith d iffe re n t ty p e s o f con tain ers, such as tu ile
cookies o r m olded cho colate cups, and can be m olded in
any v a rie ty o f fo rm s . They w o rk w e ll in an endless num­
ber o f com b in ation s. O f course, succe ssful pla te d frozen
d e sse rts re ly on co n ve n ie n tly lo ca te d fre e z e r space fo r
sto ra g e and service.
re s tric tio n s may im m e d ia te ly becom e ap pa rent. Lack
o f e q u ip m e n t (n o t enough o f a p a rtic u la r m old, f o r ex­
am ple) m ig h t fo rc e you to change th e shape o r look o f a
de sse rt. T im in g can so m e tim e s be a re s tric tiv e elem ent
f o r p re p a ra tio n s, and in som e cases you may w a n t to
re fo rm u la te th e d e s s e rt to increase its sh e lf life.
chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S 1133

Warm Date Spice Cake
with Butterscotch
Sauce, and Cinnamon
Ice Cream
Makes12servings
COMPONENTS
Date Spice Cake (page 1137)
Caramelized Apples (page 1138)
Butterscotch Sauce (page 1137)
Orange-Scented Creme Chantilly (page 1138)
Phyllo Tubes (page 1137)
Cinnamon Ice Cream (recipe follows)
Apple Chips (page 11 36 )
Milk Chocolate Cinnamon Sticks (page 1136)
ASSEMBLY
1. Prepare12plates.
2 .W armthecakesina350°F/i77°Covenuntilheated
through,about2minutes.
3. Rew armorpreparethecaramelizedapples.
4 . Spoon2oz/57g°fthesauceintothecenterofeach
plate.Placeacakeontopofthesauce.
5.Arrangefivepiecesofcaram elizedapplearound
eachplate.
6. PipethecremeChantillyintothepreparedphyllo
tubesandplacetwoontopofeachcake.
7. Placeascoopoficecreamonthecenterofthetubes
andtopwithanapplechip.Leanachocolatecinna­
monstickagainstthedessert.
plated dessert recipes
Cinnamon Ice Cream
Makes12servings
8 o z/2 2 7 g milk
8 o z/2 2 7 g heavy cream
'/2 o z /1 4 g glucose
'/♦ tsp /1 g salt
1 cinnamon stick
V* ts p /0 .5 0 g ground cinnamon
3V2 o z /9 9 g sugar
8 egg yolks
1. Inam
ediumsaucepan,combinethemilk,cream,
glucose, salt,cinnamonstick,groundcinnamon,and
about1V2oz/43g°fthesugar. Bringtoaboilover
mediumheat. Removefromtheheat,cover,andlet
steepfor5minutes.
2 . Inam ediumbowl,mixtheremainingsugarwiththe
eggyolksuntilwellcombined.
3. Graduallypourhalfofthem ilkmixtureintotheegg
yolkmixture,whiskingconstantly.
4 . Returnallingredientstothesaucepanandcontinue
tocook,stirringconstantly,overmediumheatuntil
themixturethickenstonappeconsistency.
5. Strainthem ixturethroughafine-meshstrainerinto
abain-marie. Chillinanicewaterbathuntiltheice
creambaseisbelow40°F/4°C.
6. Letthebaserest,refrigerated,overnight.
7. Churninanicecreamm akeraccordingtomanufac­
turer’sinstructions.
8. Storetheicecreaminanairtightcontainerinthe
freezeruntilsolidenoughtoscoop,8hoursorover­
night.
chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S 1135
 The finished apple chips w ill be fu lly dehydrated, crisp, and
easy to remove from the Silpat.
Apple Chips
M akes 12 servings
2 apples, peeled, sliced '/i6 in /1.50 mm thick
Lemon juice, as needed
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL water
1 . Spreadtheslicedapplesonasheetpanandbrush
themwithlemonjuice.
2 . Inam ediumpot,bringthesugarandwatertoasim­
merovermediumheat. Simmeruntilthesugaris
dissolved.
3. H eatthesyrupuntilitregistersi8o°F/82°Conan
instant-readthermometer.Addtheappleslicesand
poachuntilsoft, about30seconds.
4 . Useaspidertorem ovetheapplesfromthesyrup
andtransferthemtosheetpanlinedwithaSilpat.
Arrangetheslicesinasinglelayer.
5. Drytheapplesinai8o°F/82°Covenovernight. Store
inanairtightcontaineruntilneededforservice.
NOTE: For faster drying, the chips can also be dried in a
200°F/93°C oven fo r 1 t o 2 hours.
1136 B A K IN G A N D P A S T R Y
Tempered chocolate is form ed to mimic a cinnamon stick.
Milk Chocolate Cinnamon
Sticks
M akes 12 servings
V2 ts p /2.50 mL vegetable oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g melted milk chocolate
Ground cinnamon, as needed to coat
1. Stirtheoilintothem
eltedchocolateuntilfully
combined.
2 .H eatasheetpanina200°F/93°Covenuntilslightly
warm,about30seconds.
3. Spreadthechocolateontothebackofthesheetpanin
athin,evenlayer.
4 . Placethesheetpaninthefreezerfor30m inutes,then
intherefrigeratorfor15minutes.
5. Rem ovethepanfromtherefrigerator,andletitsitat
roomtemperatureuntilthechocolatebecomespliable.
6. Makecinnamonstickshapesusingabenchknife:
Holdthebenchknifeata45-degreeangleandrollthe
chocolatetothemiddleofthesheetpan.Repeatthis
motionacrossthechocolate,thenturnthesheetpan
aroundandrepeatintheoppositedirectionsothatthe
twotubeswillmeetinthecentertofinishthecinna­
monstickshape.
7. Rollthefinishedsticksingroundcinnam ontocoat.Re­
serveinanairtightcontaineruntilneededforservice.

Date Spice Cake
M akes 12 servings
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g pitted dates, finely diced
2 tb s p /3 0 m L brandy
1VAo z/3 1 9 g butter
1 lb I V 2 o z /4 9 6 g dark brown sugar
3/tts p /2 .5 0 g s a lt
7 eggs
Vi o z/1 4 g vanilla extract
&Ao z/1 7 7 g sour cream
1 lb VAo z/4 9 6 g all-purpose flour
VAts p /5.25 g baking powder
'/2 tsp /1 g ground cinnamon
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground allspice
1. Inasm
allbowl,tossthedateswiththebrandy.Set
aside.
2 . Inthebow lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththe
paddle,creamthebutter,brownsugar,andsaltuntil
lightandfluffy,4to5minutes.
3.A ddtheeggsgradually,scrapingdownthebowlwell
aftereachadditiontomakesurethebatterishomo­
geneous.Addthevanillaandsourcreamandmix
untilfullyincorporated.
4 . Gentlyaddtheflour,bakingpow der,cinnamon,and
allspice,mixingjustuntilincorporated.
5. Rem ovethebowlfromthemixerandusearubber
spatulatogentlyfoldthedatesintothebatter.
6. Lineahalfsheetpanwithparchmentpaper. Pour
thebatterintothepreparedpanandspreaditevenly
across. Bakeina325°F/i62°Covenuntillightly
browned,25to30minutes. Letcoolcompletely.
7. Cutthecakeusinga3-in/8-cmring.Setaside.The
cakemaybestoredinanairtightcontaineratroom
temperature,orwrappedandfrozenforlateruse.
plated dessert recipes
Phyllo Tubes
M akes 12 servings
2 sheets phyllo dough
M elted butter, as needed
1. Brushonesheetofphyllow
ithmeltedbutter,and
gentlyplacetheotherpieceofphylloontop.Brush
thesurfaceofthetopsheetwithbutter.
2 . Cutthephyllointostrips2Vi by V in/6by17cm
6 2 .
W rapeachphyllostriparoundasmallcannolitube.
3. Bakethephyllotubesina375°F/i9i°Covenuntil
goldenbrown,4to6minutes. Coolcompletely.Re­
servethetubesinanairtightcontaineruntilneeded
forservice.
Butterscotch Sauce
M akes 12 servings
12 o z/3 4 0 g dark brown sugar
8 o z/2 2 7 g butter
6 o z/1 7 0 g heavy cream
2 V 2 o z/7 1 g corn syrup
1 ts p /3 g salt
'A o z/7 g vanilla extract
1. Inam
ediumsaucepot,combinethebrownsugar,
butter, cream,cornsyrup,andsalt. Bringthemix­
turetoasimmerovermediumheat.
2 . Continuesim mering,stirringoccasionally,untilthe
saucethickensslightly,2to4minutes.
3. Rem ovefromtheheatandstirinthevanilla.Letcool
andreserverefrigerateduntilneededforservice.
Chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S 1137
Orange-Scented Creme Caramelized Apples
Chantilly M akes 12 servings

M akes 12 servings 1 o z/2 8 g butter

1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream 14 apples, peeled, tourneed

2 tb sp /1 4 g orange zest 3 o z /8 5 g sugar

1 o z/2 8 g confectioners' sugar Pinch salt

2 tb s p /3 0 mL Calvados

Inthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwiththewire
whip,whipthecreamandzestonmedium-high
speeduntilthickened.
Graduallyaddthesugarandcontinuetowhipuntil
thecreamholdssoftpeaks.
Transferthecreamtoanairtightcontainerorpiping
bagandreserve,refrigerated,untilneededforservice.
1.M
eltthebutterinalargesautepanovermedium
heat.Addtheapplesandsauteuntiltheybeginto
becometender, 3to4minutes.
2 .A ddthesugarandsaltandincreasetheheattohigh.
Continuetocookuntilthesugarcaramelizes,5to6
minutesmore.
3. Deglazethepanw iththeCalvados.Removethe
applesfromtheheat. Letcoolcompletelybefore
storingintherefrigeratorinanairtightcontainer.
NOTE: The apples must be rewarmed prior to serving, or they
can be made a la minute.

BAKING AND PASTRY

 plated dessert recipes
Blackberry and P o rt- Blackberry and Port-Poached
Poached Pears with Pears
M akes 12 servings

Ricotta Cream and 6 Forelle pears

Sable Cookies 10 o z/2 8 4 g water

M akes 12 servings 10 o z/2 8 4 g Ruby port

10 o z/2 8 4 g blackberry puree

COMPONENTS
1 o z/2 8 g lemon juice
Ricotta Cream (page 1140)
lt b s p / 9 g lemon zest
Sable Cookies (page 1140)
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
Blackberry and Port-Poached Pears (recipe follows)
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

Vi cinnamon stick
ASSEMBLY
2 tb s p /1 8 g cornstarch
1. Prepare12plates.
2 . Scoopaquenelleofthecreamatadiagonalontothe 1. Peelthepearsandcutinhalflengthw
ise. Remove
edgeofeachplate. thecorewithamelonbailer.
3. Placeacookieatanangleontheoppositeendof 2 .Com binethewater,port,blackberrypuree,lemon
eachplate. juiceandzest,sugar,vanillabeanandseeds,andcin­
4 . Thinlyslicethepearswithaparingknife,leaving namonstickinalargesaucepanovermediumheat
themattachedatthestemsothattheycanbefanned andplacethepearsintotheliquid.
out. 3. Coverw ithparchmentpaper,weighthepearsdown
5. Spoonsom eofthepoachingliquidontoeachplate, iftheyfloat,andkeeptheliquidjustbelowasimmer
andtopwithapearhalf. untilthepearsaretender,30to40minutes.
4 . Coolthepearsinthepoachingliquid,andstorein
thepoachingliquid,refrigerated,forupto3days.
5. Straintheliquidintoasaucepanandbringtoasim ­
merovermediumheat. Putthecornstarchinasmall
bowlandaddjustenoughwatertomakeathin,
runnypaste. Stirringconstantly,addsomeofthehot
liquidtothestarchmixturetotemperit.
6. Beginstirringtheliquidinthepotandaddthetem­
peredslurry.Stirgentlyandsimmeruntilitreaches
alightnappeconsistency.

chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S 1139
 Sable Cookies
M akes 12 servings
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g butter
91/2 o z/2 69 g confectioners' sugar
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
V 2 o z/1 4 g vanilla extract
2 3/ t o z/7 8 g egg yolks
1 lb l l o z / 7 6 5 g all-purpose flour
Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed
Sanding sugar, as needed
1. Inthebow
lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththe
paddle,creamthebutter,sugar,salt,andvanillaon
mediumspeedfor5minutes.
2 .Graduallyaddtheeggyolks, scrapingw ellaftereach
addition.
3.A ddtheflourandmixonlowspeeduntilitisjust
combined.
4 . Onalightlyflouredsurface,rollthedoughouttoV2
in/icmthick.Transfertoaparchment-linedsheet
panandchilluntilfirm.
5. Eggw ashthecookiesandsprinklelightlywithsand­
ingsugar.
6. Bakethecookiesina375°F/i9i°Covenuntiljustset,
20to25minutes.
7. Letthecookiescoolslightly,thenuseaserrated
knifetocutintorectangles1by3in/3by8cm.
8. Returnthecutcookiestothebakingsheetandbake
untillightlygolden,5to10minutesmore.Allowthe
cookiestocoolcompletelyandstoreinanairtight
containeratroomtemperatureuntilneeded.
1140 BAKING AND PASTRY
Ricotta Cream
M akes 12 servings
8 o z/2 2 7 g ricotta cheese
8 o z/2 2 7 g Pastry Cream (page 1099)
4 o z/1 1 3 g cream cheese
1 ts p /5 mL vanilla extract
2 o z /5 7 g s u g a r
l t s p / 3 g lemon zest
Pinch salt
8 o z/2 2 7 mL heavy cream
l '/2 sheets gelatin
1.M
ixthericotta,pastrycream,creamcheese,vanilla,
sugar,zest,andsaltuntilsmooth.
2 . Inthebow lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththewire
whip,whipthecreamtosoftpeaks.Reserve.
3. Bloomthegelatinintepidw aterfor3to5minutes.
Removethegelatinsheetsfromthewaterand
squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Combinethegelatin
with4oz/113gofthecheesemixture.
4 .H eatthegelatin-cheesemixtureinadoubleboiler
oversimmeringwateruntilitregisters130°F/54°C
onaninstant-readthermometer. Removefromthe
heatandaddtheremainingcheesemixturetocool
slightly.
5. Gentlyfoldinthecream . Reservethemixturein
anairtightcontainer, refrigerated,untilneededfor
service.
 plated dessert recipes
Lemon Souffle Basil Ice Cream
M akes 2V2 qts/2.40 L
Tart w ith Basil Ice
BASIL PUREE
Cream and Blueberry 5 o z/1 4 2 g basil leaves

Compote Simple syrup (page 1023), as needed

M akes 12 servings ICECREAM

1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g milk
COMPONENTS
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g heavy cream
Lemon Curd (page 1145)
l ' / 2 o z / 4 3 g glucose
Tartlet Shells (page 1144)
Pinch salt
Fresh blueberries
1 0 '/2 o z /2 9 8 g sugar
Common Meringue (page 1024)
2 2 egg yolks
Confectioners' sugar, as needed for dusting
6 o z /1 7 0 g Basil Puree (above)
Basil Sauce (page 1145)

Blueberry Compote (page 1145)

Basil Ice Cream (recipe follows)
Tuiles (page 11 44 )
ASSEMBLY
1. Prepare12plates.
2.. Spread oz/7glem
V4 oncurdinthebaseofeachtart
shell. Placeafewblueberriesontop.
3. Foreachtart, m akeacommonmeringuewith
oz/14geggwhitesand oz/14gsugar.Gentlyfoldit
V2
intotheremaininglemoncurdandmoundthemix­
tureinthetartshells.
4 . Dustthetopofeachtartw ithconfectioners’sugar.
Bakeina400°F/204°Covenuntillightlygoldenand
puffed,about8minutes.
5. Letthetartscoolfor1m inutebeforeremovingthem
fromthepan.
6. Spoonbasilsauceinaringaroundtheedgeofeach
plate. Placeatartinthecenterofeachplate. Spoon
someblueberrycompoteonthesideandaddascoop
ofthebasilicecream.Finisheachplatewithatuile.
1.Tom
akethebasilpuree,bringasmallpotofwater
toaboilovermediumheat. Prepareanicewater
bath.
2 .Blanchthebasilintheboilingw aterfor20sec­
onds. Shockinanicewaterbath,drain,and
squeezetoremoveexcesswater.
3.Inablenderorfoodprocessor,pureethebasil
leaveswithenoughsimplesyruptomakethemix­
turesmooth.
V2
4 .Reserve,covered,untilyouarereadytom akethe
icecream.
5.Tom aketheicecream,combinethemilk,cream,
glucose,salt,and5Vioz/155gofthesugarinamedi­
umsaucepan.Bringtoasimmerovermediumheat.
6. Inamediumbowl,combinetheremainingsugar
withtheeggyolks,mixinguntilfullycombined.
7.W henthemilkmixturereachesasimmer, slowly
poursomeintotheyolks,whiskingconstantlyto
tempertheyolkmixture.
8. Returnalloftheingredientstothesaucepanand
continuetocookovermediumheat,stirringcon­
stantly,untilthemixturethickenstoanappe
consistency.
9 .Straintheicecreambasethroughafine-m esh
strainer,andplaceimmediatelyintoanicewa­
terbath.Chilluntiltheicecreambaseisbelow
40°F/4°C.
continued

c h a p te r 36 » P LA TE D DES SE R TS 1 143
 10 .Stirinthebasilpureejustbeforechurning.Churn
inanicecreammakeraccordingtothemanufac­
turer’sinstructions.
11 .Placetheicecreaminanairtightcontainerinthe
freezeruntilsolidenoughtoscoop,8hoursor
overnight.
NOTE: This puree must be made the same day as the ice
cream w ill be churned so that it maintains its flavor and
color.
Tartlet Shells
M akes 12 tart shells
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g 1-2 -3 Cookie Dough (page 1086)
Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed
1. Onaflouredsurface, rolloutthedoughtoVsin/3
mmthick.Cutthedoughinto4-in/io-cmrounds.
2.. Placetw elve3-in/8-cmtartpansonaparchment-
linedbakingsheet. Gentlypressthedoughintothe
tartpans.Refrigerateuntilthedoughisfirm.
3. Lineeachshellw ithroundsofparchmentandfill
withpieweights.
4 . Bakethetartshellsina375°F/i9i°Covenuntilthe
shellsbegintoset, 10to15minutes.
5. Rem ovetheweightsandparchmentfromtheshells
andbrushlightlywitheggwash.Continuetobake
untilgolden,about10minutesmore.
6. Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature
untilneededforservice.
1144 BAKING AND PASTRY
Tuiles
M akes 2 lb 4 0 z h .0 2 kg batter
93/ t o z/2 7 6 g confectioners' sugar
9 o z/2 5 5 g all-purpose flour
Pinch salt
8 o z/2 2 7 g butter, soft
4!/t o z/1 2 0 g egg whites, room temperature
5 3/t o z / 1 6 3 g honey
V2 o z/1 4 g vanilla extract
1. Inthebow
lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththepad­
dle,combinethesugar,flour,andsalt.
2 .A ddthebutterandapproximatelyone-quarterof
theeggwhitesandmixonlowspeeduntilasmooth,
thickpasteforms.
3.A ddthehoneyandmixuntilcombined.Gradually
addtheremainingeggwhitesandthevanilla,mixing
justtocombine.
4 . Coverthebatterinanairtightcontainerandreserve,
refrigerated,untilreadytobake.
5. Preheattheovento375cF/i9i°C.Spreadthebatter
intostripsViby4in/iby10cmindiameterona
sheetpanandbakeuntilgolden,about15minutes.
Allowtocoolforamomentonthepan,thenremove
thecookiesandallowtocoolcompletelyonracks.
6. Storeatroomtemperatureinanairtightcontainer.
NOTES: It is im portant that the b u tte r and egg whites be at
room temperature. If they are too cold, the batter will
separate.
This b a tte r can be made up to a week in advance. It can
be warmed in the microwave, if necessary, to bring it
back to spreadable consistency.
 plated dessert recipes
Basil Sauce Blueberry Compote
Makes12servings Makes12servings
2 bunches basil, leaves only 1 lb /4 5 4 g blueberries

Corn syrup, as needed 1 tb sp /9 g lemon zest

1. Bringasm
allpotofwatertoaboilovermedium
heat. Prepareanicewaterbath.
2 . Blanchthebasilintheboilingw aterfor20seconds.
Shockintheicewaterbath,drain,andsqueezeto
removeexcesswater.
3. Inablenderorfoodprocessor,pureethebasilleaves
withenoughcornsyruptomakeasmoothsauce.
Adjusttheconsistencywithcornsyrupasnecessary.
4 . Reserve, covered,untilneededforservice.
Lemon Curd
Makes12servings
8 o z/2 2 7 g eggs
9 o z /2 5 5 g s u g a r
12 o z/3 4 0 g butter, cut into small cubes
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice
Sugar, as needed
1. Inasm
allsaucepan,combine12oz/340gofthe
blueberrieswiththelemonzest,juice, andenough
watertojustcover.
2 . Bringthem ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat.
Continuetocook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheber­
riesaresoft,4to5minutes.
3. Rem ovefromtheheatandstirinsugartotaste.Cool
completely.
4 . Inafoodprocessororblender,pureethesauceuntil
smooth.Strainthesaucethroughafine-meshstrain­
erandadjusttheconsistencywithwaterifnecessary.
5. Reserve,covered,untilneededforservice. Fold
intheremaining4oz/113gblueberriesjustbefore

6 V 2 o z/1 8 4 g lemon juice

l t b s p /9 g lemon zest

'A o z/7 g cornstarch

Pinch salt

1. Inam
ediumheatproofbowl,whisktogetherthe
eggsandsugaruntilwellcombined.
2 .A ddtheremainingingredientsandplacethebowl
overamediumsaucepanofsimmeringwater.
3. Continuetocook,w hiskingfrequently,untilthe
mixtureisthickandregistersi85°F/85°Conan
instant-readthermometer.
4 . Strainthecurdthroughafine-m eshstrainerintoa
hotelpan.Coverthecurddirectlywithplasticwrap
andrefrigerateuntilchilled.

chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S 1145
 Key Lime Tart
M akes 12 servings
COMPONENTS
Creme Chantilly (recipe follows)
Key Lime Tart (recipe follows)
Strawberry Coulis (recipe follows)
Limes
ASSEMBLY
1. Prepare12plates.
2 . EvenlyspreadalayerofcremeChantillyonthesur­
faceofthetart. Cutthetartinto12evenpieces.
3. Placeonetartsliceontoeachplateandspoonsom
strawberrycoulisontoeachplate.
4 Spoonaquenelleofcrem
. eChantillyontoeachslice
ofthetartandtopwithatwistedwheeloffreshlime.
Creme Chantilly
M akes 16 fl oz/480 mL
1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream
2 o z/5 7 g confectioners' sugar
V2 o z/1 4 g vanilla extract
1. Inthebow
lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththewire
whip,whipthecreamtosoftpeaks.
2 .A ddthesugarandvanillaandcontinuetowhipuntil
thecreamreachesmediumpeaks. Reserve,refriger­
ated,untilneededforservice.
Key Lime Tart
M akes 12 servings
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g sweetened condensed milk
5 '/t o z/1 49 g eggs
2'A o z/6 6 g egg yolks
6 o z/1 7 0 g Key lime juice
Graham Cracker Crust (recipe follows)
1 . Inalargebow
l,combinethecondensedmilk,eggs,
andyolks.
1146 BAKING AND PASTRY
2 . Stirinthelim
ejuice. Mixuntilwellblended,butdo
notovermix.
3. Pourthefillingintothepreparedcrustandbakein
300°F/i49°Covenuntilthecustardisset,about10
minutes.
4 . Letthetartcooltoroomtem perature,thenwrap
andfreezeovernight. Thefillingwillhaveatexture
similartocheesecake.
Graham Cracker Crust
M akes g 3A OZI276 g
6 o z/1 7 0 g graham cracker crumbs
3 o z/8 5 g melted butter
e 3/ t o z /2 1 g sugar
Pinch salt
1. Com
bineallingredientsinamediumbowl.Pressthe
crustevenlyintoaio-in/25-cmtartpan.
2 . Bakeina325°F/i63°Covenuntilthecrusthasset
andisslightlybrowned,about12minutes.Allowthe
crusttocoolcompletelybeforefilling.
Strawberry Coulis
M akes 16 oz/454 g
1 lb /4 5 4 g strawberries
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice
1. Com
binethestrawberries,4oz/113g°fthesugar,
and1tbsp/15mLofthelemonjuiceinamedium
nonreactivesaucepan.Allowthefruittomacerate
for20to30minutes.
2 . Bringthem ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat,stir­
ringuntilthesugarhasdissolved,about10minutes.
Puree.
3. Strainthecoulisthroughafine-m eshstrainer.Ad­
justtheflavorwiththeremainingsugarandlemon
juice. Storethecoulisinanairtightcontaineruntil
neededforservice.
NOTE: If desired, add a slurry made o f 2 tbsp/30 mL water
and V 2oz/1 4 g cornstarch per 16 f I oz/4 80 mL o f coulis
to the sauce to thicken it. Bring the coulis to a boil,
gradually whisk in the slurry, and bring back to a boil.
Cool com pletely before using.
Key Lime Tart
 plated dessert recipes
Mango and Passion- 3. Placethem ixtureoveralargepotofsimmeringwa­
terandcookuntiltender, 1V2to2hours.
Poached Pineapple 4 . Rem ovefromtheheat, addthebananaslices,cover,
andrefrigeratethemixtureovernight.
with Coconut Flan and
Cilantro Sorbet Cilantro Sorbet
M akes 12 servings M akes 12 servings

COMPONENTS SORBET SYRUP

Mango and Passion-Poached Pineapple (recipe follows) 12 o z/3 4 0 g sugar

Coconut Flans (page 1150) 8 o z/2 2 7 g water

Cilantro Sorbet (recipe follows) 2 o z /5 7 g glucose

Coconut Chips (page 1150) SORBET

1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g cilantro, leaves only

ASSEMBLY
1 lb 6 V 2 o z /6 3 8 g water
1. Prepare12bow ls. 6 'A o z / l l l g stabilizer
2 . Removethepineapplefromtheliquidandreserve. I V 2 ts p /7 .5 0 g sugar
Straintheliquidandadjusttheconsistencywithwa­
terifnecessary. 3 3/ t o z/1 0 6 g lime juice

3. Gentlyunm oldtheflans,andplacetowardtheback
ofeachbowl. 1. Inam
ediumsaucepan,bringalltheingredientsfor
thesorbetsyruptoaboil.
4 . Pourabout4oz/113g°fthepoachingliquidinto
eachbowl,andplaceawedgeofpineappleinfront 2 . Coverthesyrupandreserve, refrigerated,untilready
oftheflan. tomakethesorbet.
5. Scoopaquenelleofsorbetontopofeachflanand 3. Tom akethesorbet,bringamediumpotofwaterto
topwithacoconutchip. aboilovermediumheat. Prepareanicewaterbath.
4 . Blanchthecilantroleavesintheboilingw aterfor
20seconds. Shockintheicewaterbathanddrain,
Mango and Passion-Poached squeezingtoremoveexcesswater.
Pineapple 5.W eighthecilantroleavesandaddenoughofthewa­
M akes 12 portions tertoequal22%oz/638g.
6. Pureethewaterandcilantrountilsmooth.Trans­
1 pineapple
ferthemixturetoalargebowl.Addtheremaining
12 o z/3 4 0 g mango puree waterandthe oz/517gsorbetsyrupandstirto
18V4

4 o z/1 1 3 g passion fru it puree combine.

6 o z/1 7 0 g water 7. Inasm allbowl,combinethestabilizer,sugar,and
limejuice. Graduallyblendintothecilantromixture
3/ f oz/21 g lime juice
usinganimmersionblender.
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
8. Churnthesorbetinanicecreammachineaccording
1 banana, sliced tomanufacturer’sinstructions.
9 . Placethesorbetinanairtightcontainerandfreeze
1. Trimthepineappleandcutinto12w edges. untilfirmenoughtoscoop,8hoursorovernight.
2 . Placethepineappleinalargeheatproofbow lwith
thefruitpurees,water, limejuice, andsugar.

chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S 1149
Coconut Chips
M akes 12 servings
1 fresh coconut
Simple syrup (page 1023), as needed
Splitthecoconutinhalfbyhittingallaroundits
equator.
Placethetwohalvesonasheetpanandbakeina
350°F/i77°Covenuntiltender,30to40minutes.
Letthecoconutcoolcompletely,thenprytheflesh
loosefromtheshell.Useavegetablepeelertomake
12half-moonslicesofcoconut.
Bringsomesimplesyruptoagentlesimmerover
mediumheat.Addthecoconutslicesandcontinue
tosimmerfor5minutes. Removefromtheheatand
letthecoconutcoolinthesyrupovernight.
LineasheetpanwithaSilpat. Placethecoconut
ontothesheetpanandbakeat300°F/i49°Cuntil
goldenbrown.
Storethecoconutchipsinanairtightcontainerat
roomtemperatureuntilneededforservice.
B A K IN G AN D PASTRY
Coconut Flans
M akes 12 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
4 o z/1 1 3 g water
4 o z/1 1 3 g corn syrup
1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g sweetened condensed milk
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g unsweetened coconut milk
4 eggs
1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract
Pinch salt
1. Inam
ediumpot,combinethesugarandwater.
Bringtoaboil, stirringconstantly.
2 .A ddthecornsyrupandcontinuetocook,without
stirring.Washdownthesidesofthepotoccasionally
withwaterandapastrybrushtoavoidcrystallization.
3. Continuetocookuntilam ediumcaramelforms.
Removefromtheheatandpourenoughintoeachof
12ramekinstocoverthebase. Reserve.
4 . Inalargebow l,whisktogetherthecondensed
milk,coconutmilk,eggs,vanilla,andsaltuntilwell
combined.
5. Dividethem ixtureevenlyamongthecaramel-coat-
edramekins. Placetheramekinsinahotelpanand
fillthehotelpanwithenoughwarmwatertocome
atleasthalfwayupthesidesoftheramekins.
6. Baketheflansina325°F/i63°Covenuntilthecus­
tardhasset,30to35minutes.
7. Refrigeratetheflansatleast4hoursbeforeunm old­
ingfromtheramekins.
NOTE: The flan can be stored in the ramekins fo r up to 3 days
before unmolding.

S'mores
M akes 12 servings
COMPONENTS
Graham Cracker Crust for S’mores (page 1152)
Graham Cracker Ice Cream (recipe follows)
Marshmallow (page 1152)
Classic Caramel Sauce (page 1153)
White Sauce (page 1154)
Beignet Truffle Centers (page 1153)
Chocolate Beignet Batter (page 1154)
Oil, as needed for deep frying
Chocolate Graham Decor (page 1152)
Confectioners' sugar, as needed for dusting
ASSEMBLY
1.Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentandtopwith
12ringmolds.
2 .PresslAozlj gofthegrahamcrackercrustintothe
bottomofeachringmold.
3.Portionthechurnedicecreamintotheringsand
freezeovernight.
4 .Rem ovetheicecreamfromtheringsandwrap
withmarshmallow.Keepfrozenuntilservice.
5.Prepare12plates. Decoratethecenteroftheplate
withthecaramelandwhitesauces.
6. Useablowtorchtotoasttheoutsideofthemarsh­
mallow.
7.Coatthefrozentrufflesinbeignetbatterandfryin
theoilat350°F/i77°Cuntilcookedthrough,3to4
minutes. Removewithaspideranddrainonpaper
towels.
8. Placeoneportionofmarshmallow-wrappedice
creamoneachplateontopofthesauceswiththe
crustdown.Topwithapieceofchocolatedecor.
9 .Dustthebeignetsw ithconfectioners’sugarand
placeoneontopofthedecoroneachplate.
10 .Crackthebeignetsopenw ithaparingknifebefore
serving.
plated dessert recipes
Graham Cracker Ice Cream
M akes 1V2 qt/1.44 L
1 lb 1 4 o z / 8 5 1 g m i lk
1 lb 1 4 o z / 8 5 1 g h e a v y c r e a m
l '/2 o z / 4 3 g g lu c o s e
5 o z /1 4 2 g g ra h a m c ra c k e r c ru m b s
5V2 o z / 1 5 6 g d a rk b ro w n s u g a r
1 v a n i l la b e a n , split a n d s e e d s re m o v e d
2 2 e g g y o lk s
5 o z /1 4 2 g s u g a r
ts p /1 g salt
1. Inam
ediumpot,bringthemilk,heavycream,glu­
cose, crumbs,brownsugar,andvanillabeantoa
simmerovermediumheat.
2 . Inam ediumbowl,whisktogethertheyolks,granu­
latedsugar,andsaltuntilwellcombined.
3.W henthemilkmixtureissimmering,pouritinan
evenstreamintotheyolkmixture,whiskingcon­
stantly.
4 . Returnthem ixturetothepotandcontinuetocook,
stirringconstantly,untilthemixturereachesnappe
consistency.
5. Strainthebasethroughafine-m eshstrainerintoa
bain-marieinanicewaterbath.Chilluntilthemix­
tureisbelow40°F/4°C.
6. Churninanicecreammakeraccordingtomanufac­
turer’sinstructions.
7. Placeinanairtightcontainerandfreezeuntilfirm
enoughscoop,8hoursorovernight.
chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S 1151
Chocolate Graham Decor Marshmallow
M akes 12 servings M akes 12 servings

8 o z/2 2 7 g melted chocolate, tempered 3/ t o z/21 g powdered gelatin

Graham cracker crumbs, as needed 4 o z/1 1 3 g cold water

12 o z/3 4 0 g sugar
Spreadthemeltedchocolateontoparchmentpaper 6 o z/1 7 0 g glucose
withanoffsetspatulatoaboutVsin/3mmthick. 2 o z/5 7 g honey
Sprinklegenerouslywithgrahamcrackercrumbs
beforethechocolatefullysets. 2 o z/5 7 g invert sugar

Cuttheslabofchocolateinto21/2-in/6-cmsquares 3 o z/8 5 g water

withaparingknife.Topwithanotherpieceofparch­ V* o z/7 g vanilla extract

mentpaper,andtopwithasheetpantokeepthe
decorflatasitsets.
Graham Cracker Crust for
S'mores
M akes 12 servings
10 o z/2 8 4 g graham cracker crumbs
6 o z/1 7 0 g melted butter
4 o z/1 1 3 g brown sugar
Inamediumbowl,combinealltheingredients.Re­
servethecrustmixtureinanairtightcontaineruntil
needed.
1 0 .D ustthetopofthemarshmallowwithconfection­
1 1.Storeatroomtem
Confectioners’ sugar, as needed for dusting
1.Lineasheetpanw ithoiledparchmentpaper.
2 .Inasmallbowl,stirthegelatinintothecoldwater
tobloom.
3.Inam ediumsaucepan,cookthesugar,glucose,
honey,invertsugar,and3oz/85gwateruntilitreg­
isters250°F/i2i°Conaninstant-readthermometer.
4 .Pourthesugarm ixtureintothebowlofanelectric
mixerfittedwiththewirewhipandallowtocool
to212°F/lOO°C.
5.M eltthegelatininadoubleboiler.W henthesugar
mixturehascooled,addthegelatinandwhipon
highspeeduntilthick,about8minutes.
6. Addthevanillaextractandmixtofullycombine.
7.Spreadthem arshmallowontothepreparedsheet
panusingalightlyoiledspatula.
8. Placeanothersheetofoiledparchmentontop
ofthemarshmallowandflattenuntilthetopis
smoothandeven.
9 .Freezethem arshmallowovernight.
ers’sugaranduseapastrywheeltocutintostrips
1V2by6in/4by15cm .
peratureinanairtightcontainer.

B A K IN G A N D PASTRY

Beignet Truffle Centers
M akes 40 centers
8 3/ t o z/2 4 8 g heavy cream
2 3/t o z / 7 8 g glucose
9 3/ t o z/2 7 6 g bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
40 tru ffle shells
Melted bittersw eet chocolate, as needed
1. Inasm
allpot,bringtheheavycreamandglucoseto
asimmerovermediumheat.
2 . Placethechoppedchocolateinam ediumstainless-
steelbowl.Pourthehotcreammixtureoverthe
chocolate.
3. Letthem ixturesitfor1minute,thenstirfromthe
middleofthemixturetotheoutside,untilcombined
intoasmoothganche.
4 .Transfertoahotelpanandletthem ixturesitfor1
houratroomtemperature.
5. Transferthem ixturetoapipingbagfittedwitha
mediumplaintip.Pipethemixtureintothetruffle
shells,leavingjustenoughroomatthetoptoclose
thetruffleswithmeltedchocolate. Letthefilled
trufflessetintherefrigeratorfor1hour.
6. Poursomemeltedchocolateintoapipingbag,and
cutasmallholeinthetip.Finisheachtrufflebyclos­
ingitwithmeltedchocolate.
7. Freezethetrufflecentersuntilcom pletelyfrozen,
about2hours.
plated dessert recipes
Classic Caramel Sauce
M akes 12 servings
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g heavy cream
13 o z/3 6 9 g sugar
10 o z/2 8 4 g glucose
2'A o z/6 4 g butter, cubed, soft
1 . Placethecreaminasaucepanandbringtoaboil
overmediumheat. Leavethepanoververylowheat
tokeepwarm.
2 . Prepareanicew aterbath.Combinethesugarand
glucoseinaheavy-bottomedsaucepanandslowly
cookovermediumheat, stirringconstantly,untilthe
sugarhasdissolved.Stopstirringandcontinueto
cooktoagoldencaramel. Removefromtheheatand
shockthesaucepanintheicewaterbathtostopthe
cooking.
3. Rem ovefromtheicewaterbathandstirthebutter
intothecaramel. Carefullystirinthehotcream,
mixinguntilfullyblended.
4 . Reserveatroomtem peratureuntilneededforser­
vice. Forlongerstorage,placeinanairtightcontain­
erandrefrigerate.W armthesaucebeforeuse.
c h a p te r 36 » P LA TE D DESSERTS 1153
 White Sauce Chocolate Beignet Batter
M akes 12 servings M akes 40 beignets

8 o z/2 2 7 g sour cream 9'/2 o z/2 69 g bread flour

3/ t oz/21 g confectioners’ sugar 6'/2 o z /1 8 4 g sugar

'A o z/7 g vanilla extract 3 o z/8 5 g cocoa powder

Heavy cream, as needed V* o z/7 g baking powder

l t s p /3 g s a lt
1. Inasm
allbowl,combinethesourcream,sugar,and 8'/2 o z/2 4 0 g whole milk
vanilla.Stirinheavycreamuntilthemixturereaches
athick,honey-likeconsistency. 7 o z/1 9 8 g e g g s

2 . Storethefinishedsaucerefrigeratedinanairtight V/2 o z /4 3 g canola oil

containeruntilneededforservice. 1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract

40 Beignet Truffle Centers (page 1153)

NOTE: The sauce will thicken slightly under refrigeration.
Adjust the consistency w ith additional heavy cream if Flour, as needed for dusting

necessary.
1 . Inthebow
lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththepad­
dle,combinethebreadflour,sugar,cocoapowder,
bakingpowder,andsalt.
2 .A ddthemilk,eggs,oil, andvanillaandcontinueto
mixuntilasmoothbatterforms.
3. Transferthem ixturetoanairtightcontainerandlet
itrest,refrigerated,overnight.
4 . Coatthetrufflecentersw ithflourbeforedipping
intobatter(seeAssembly,page1151).

1154 BAKING AND PASTRY

S'mores (page 1151)
 plated desserts recipes
P rofiteroles Vanilla Ice Cream
M akes 12 servings M akes 1V2 qt/1.44 L

COMPONENTS 1 lb /4 5 4 g milk

Chocolate Sauce (page 1159) 1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream

Caramel Sauce (page 1159) 1 o z/2 8 g corn syrup

White Sauce (page 1154) 7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar

Chocolate Pate a Choux (page 1160) ' / t t s p / l g salt

Corn Flake Crunch (page 1159) 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

Confectioners’ sugar, as needed for dusting 1 0 3/ t o z/3 0 5 g egg yolks

Vanilla Ice Cream (recipe follows)

Coffee Ice Cream (page 1158)
Dulce de Leche Ice Cream (page 1158)
Chocolate Straws (page 1160)
ASSEMBLY
1. Prepare12bow ls.
2 . Pipealternatingdotsofthechocolate, caram
el, and
whitesaucesaroundtheperimeterofeachbowl.
3. Sw irlthesaucestogetherwithatoothpick.
4 . Filleachpateachouxpastryw ithapproximately
1tbsp/15mLofthecornflakecrunch.
5. Dustthereservedpateachouxtopsw ithconfection­
ers’sugar.
6. Place3pastriesoneachplateandfilleachwitha
3A-il oz/22-mLscoopofthevanilla,coffee, anddulce
delecheicecream.
7. Toptheicecreamw ithchocolatesaucetoforma
triangle.
8. Finishbyplacingthesugar-dustedtopsbackonto
eachprofiteroleandaddingtwochocolatestraws.
10 .Churninanicecreamm
11 .Packtheicecreamintostoragecontainersand
1.Com
binethemilk,cream,cornsyrup,halfthe
sugar,thesalt,andthevanillabeanpodandseeds
inasaucepan.
2 .Bringthem ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat
andcook,stirringconstantly,7to10minutes.
3.Rem ovefromtheheat,coverthepan,andallowit
tosteepfor5minutes.
4 .M eanwhile,blendtheeggyolkswiththeremain­
ingsugar.
5.Rem ovethevanillapodfromthemilkmixtureand
returnthemixturetoasimmer.
6. W hiskone-thirdofthehotmilkmixtureintothe
eggyolks,whiskingconstantlytotemper.
7.Returntheeggm ixturetothesaucepanwiththe
remaininghotliquidandstirconstantlyoverme­
diumheatuntilthemixtureisthickenoughtocoat
thebackofaspoon,3to5minutes.
8. Straintheicecreambaseintoametalcontainer
overanicewaterbath,stirringoccasionallyuntilit
reaches40°F/4°C,about1hour.
9 .Coverandrefrigerateforam inimumof12hours.
achineaccordingtothe
manufacturer’sdirections.
freezeforseveralhoursorovernightbeforeusing.

chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S 1157
 Coffee Ice Cream
M akes 1V2 qt/1.44 L
1 lb /4 5 4 g milk
1 lb /4 5 4 heavy cream
1 o z/2 8 g corn syrup
7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar
2 o z/5 7 g coarsely ground coffee
I/4 ts p /1 g salt
10 3/ t o z /3 0 5 g egg yolks
1.Com
binethemilk,cream,cornsyrup,halfthe
sugar,thecoffee,andthesaltinasaucepan.
2 .Bringthem ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat,
stirringconstantly,7to10minutes.Donotbring
themixturetoaboil.
3.Rem ovefromtheheat, coverthepan,andallowit
tosteepfor5minutes.
4 .M eanwhile,blendtheeggyolkswiththeremain­
ingsugar.
5.Strainthecoffeegroundsfromthem ilkandreturn
themixturetoasimmer.
6. W hiskone-thirdofthehotmilkmixtureintothe
eggyolks,whiskingconstantlytotemper.
7.Returntheeggm ixturetothesaucepanwiththe
remaininghotliquid,stirringconstantlyoverme­
diumheatuntilthemixtureisthickenoughtocoat
thebackofaspoon,3to5minutes.
8. Straintheicecreambaseintoametalcontainer
overanicewaterbath,stirringoccasionallyuntilit
reaches40°F/4°C,about1hour.
9 .Coverandrefrigerateforam inimumof12hours.
10 .Churninanicecreamm achineaccordingtothe
manufacturer’sdirections.
11 .Packtheicecreamintostoragecontainersand
freezeforseveralhoursorovernightbeforeusing.
BAKING AND PASTRY
Dulce de Leche Ice Cream
M akes 1V2 qt/1.44 L
1 can (14 o z/3 9 6 g) sweetened condensed milk
1 lb /4 5 4 g milk
1 lb /4 5 4 heavy cream
1 o z/2 8 g corn syrup
7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar
' / i t s p / l gsalt
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
1 0 3A o z/3 0 5 g egg yolks
1 .Placethecanofcondensedm
ilkinapotandcover
withatleast1in/3cmwater.
2 .Sim merfor4hours,makingsuretokeepthecan
coveredwithwater. Storetheunopenedcanat
roomtemperatureuntilneeded.
3.Com binethemilk,cream,cornsyrup,halfthe
sugar,thesalt, andthevanillabeanpodandseeds
inasaucepan.
4 .Bringthem ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat,
stirringconstantly,7to10minutes.
5.Rem ovefromtheheat,coverthepan,andallowit
tosteepfor5minutes.
6. Meanwhile,blendtheeggyolkswiththeremain­
ingsugar.
7.Rem ovethevanillapodfromthemilkmixtureand
returnthemixturetoasimmer.
8. W hiskone-thirdofthehotmilkmixtureintothe
eggyolks,whiskingconstantlytotemper.
9 .Returntheeggm ixturetothesaucepanwith
remaininghotliquid,stirringconstantlyoverme­
diumheatuntilthemixtureisthickenoughtocoat
thebackofaspoon,3to5minutes.
10.Straintheicecreambaseintoam etalcontainer
overanicewaterbath,stirringoccasionallyuntilit
reaches40°F/4°C,about1hour.
11 .W hileitcools, stirthecontentsofthecondensed
milkcanthoroughlyintothehotbase.Coverand
refrigerateforaminimumof12hours.
12 .Churninanicecreamm achineaccordingtothe
manufacturer’sdirections.
13.Packtheicecreamintostoragecontainersand
freezeforseveralhoursorovernightbeforeusing.
 plated dessert recipes
Corn Flake Crunch Vanilla Caramel Sauce
Makes lib g oz/jog g Makes 12 servings

2V* o z /6 4 g hazelnuts 13 o z/3 6 9 g heavy cream

2 1/t o z / 6 4 g sugar 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

12 o z/3 4 0 g milk chocolate, finely chopped Pinch salt

8 V 2 o z/2 41 g corn flakes 7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar

1 . Place the hazelnuts and sugar in a food processor
and grind until the mixture climbs the walls of the
bowl. Scrape down the walls and continue to grind.
Repeat this process at least three times, until a
smooth-looking paste forms.
2 . Melt the chocolate in a metal bowl over simmering
water. Once the chocolate is completely melted, fold
in the corn flakes and the hazelnut-sugar mixture.
3 . Spread the mixture thinly on a parchment-lined
sheet pan and store in a closed container at room
temperature. Reheat for service as needed.
Chocolate Sauce
Makes 12 servings
5 o z /1 4 2 g s u g a r
8 o z /2 2 7 g w a te r
2 'A o z /6 4 g corn syrup
2 o z/5 7 g cocoa powder
2 o z/5 7 g water
5 o z/1 4 2 g corn syrup
1 o z/2 8 g butter, cubed
1 . Combine the cream, vanilla bean pod and seeds, and
salt. Heat to a simmer over medium heat, cover and
allow to steep for 10 minutes. Remove the vanilla
bean pod and reserve.
2 . Combine the sugar and water in a pot and bring to a
simmer over medium-high heat.
3 . Add the corn syrup and continue to cook without
stirring until the mixture is a medium caramel color,
about 7 minutes.
4 . Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter.
Slowly whisk in the cream mixture.
5 . Allow to cool slightly before transferring to a serving
container.
6 . For longer storage, place in an airtight container and
refrigerate. Warm the sauce before use.

8 o z /2 2 7 g bittersw eet chocolate, finely chopped

1 . Combine the sugar, water, and syrup in a heavy-

bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-
high heat. Remove from the heat.
2 . Place the cocoa in a heatproof bowl and add enough
of the hot syrup to make a paste, stirring until
smooth. Gradually add the remaining syrup and mix
until fully incorporated.
3 . Add the chocolate and blend until fully incorporated.
4 . Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer. Store
the sauce in an airtight container until needed for
service.

c h a p te r 36 » P LA TE D DESSERTS 1159
 Chocolate Pate a Choux Chocolate Straws
Makes 12 servings Yield: 12 straws

8 o z/2 2 7 g milk 12 o z/3 4 0 g chocolate, melted, tempered

8 o z/2 2 7 g water

8 o z/2 2 7 g butter
1 . Spread tempered chocolate on a marble surface no
wider than the width of the tool you will be using to
1 ts p /3 g s a lt
form the straws, or, when the chocolate is somewhat
61/2 o z/1 8 4 g bread flour set, use the tip of a paring knife to score the choco­
V / 2 o z/4 3 g cocoa powder late into narrow strips. Let the chocolate set briefly.

12V2 o z /3 5 4 g eggs (6 eggs) 2 . Using the same motion as described above, scrape
the chocolate into straws. It is important to scrape
the chocolate with a motion directly parallel to the
1 . Bring the milk, water, butter, and salt to a boil in a
length of the strip; otherwise, the straws will curl
saucepan over medium heat. Remove from the heat
into each other and be difficult to separate.
and add all the flour and cocoa powder at once. Re­
turn to medium heat and cook, stirring constantly,
until the mixture pulls away from the sides of the
pan, about 3 minutes.
2 . Transfer the mixture to the bowl of an electric mixer
and beat briefly on medium speed with a paddle.
Add 2 eggs at a time, beating until smooth after each
addition.
3 . Place the dough into a piping bag with a no. 5 round
tip. Pipe into bulbs 1V2 in/4 cm in diameter onto a
parchment-lined baking sheet.
4 . Bake at 36o°F/i82°C until cracks form in the pastry,
about 50 minutes.
5 . Allow the pastries to cool to room temperature.
6 . Slice off the top third of each of the baked pastries
and reserve the tops and the bottoms to be filled. If
storing for later use, the pastry should not be sliced
and may be stored in an airtight container at room
temperature or frozen for longer storage.

1160 B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
ppendix
Approximate Soaking and Cooking Times for
Selected Dried Legumes
TYPE SOAKING TIME COOKINGTIME

AD ZU KI BEANS 4 hours 1 hour

BLACK BEANS 4 hours I V 2 hours

BLACK-EYED PEAS* — 1 hour

CHICKPEAS 4 hours 2 to 2 V i hours

FAVA BEANS 12 hours 3 hours

GREAT NORTHERN BEANS 4 hours 1 hour

KIDNEY BEANS (RED OR W HITE) 4 hours 1 hour

LEN TILS* — 3 0 to 40 m inutes

LIM A BEANS 4 hours 1 to I V 2 hours

MUNGBEANS 4 hours 1 hour

NAVY BEANS 4 hours 2 hours

PEAS, SPLIT* — 30 m in utes

PEAS, WHOLE 4 hours 40 m inutes

PIGEON PEAS* — 30 m inutes

PINK BEANS 4 hours 1 hour

PINTO BEANS 4 hours 1 to I V 2 hours

SOYBEANS 12 hours 3 to 3Vz hours

*Soaking is not necessary.

AP P E N D IX ll6 l
 Cooking Ratios and Times fo r Selected Pasta and Grains
RATIO OF GRAIN TO APPROXIMATE
TYPE COOKINGTIME
LIQUID (CUPS) YIELD (CUPS)

BARLEY, PEARLED 1:2 4 35 to 45 m inutes

BARLEY GROATS 1 :2 V 2 4 50 m in u te s to 1 hour

BUCKWHEAT GROATS (KASHA) L I 1/? to 2 2 12 to 2 0 m in utes

couscous l : l lA to I V 2 lY 2 t o 2 5 to 10 m in utes

HOMINY, W HOLE* 1:2 V i 3 2 V i t o 3 hours

H O M IN Y GRITS 1:4 3 25 m in utes

M ILLET 1:2 3 30 to 35 m in utes

OAT GROATS 1:2 2 45 m in u te s to 1 hour

POLENTA, FIRM 1:4 5 35 to 45 m in utes

POLENTA, SOFT 1:5 6 35 to 45 m in utes

RICE, ARBORIO (FOR RISOTTO) 1:3 3 18 to 2 2 m in utes

RICE, BASMATI 1-.1V2 3 2 5 m in utes

RICE, CAROLINA l- .V A 3 2 5 to 30 m in utes

RICE, CONVERTED 1 :2 4 18 to 20 m inutes

RICE,JASM INE 1:1 V i 3 2 5 m in utes

RICE, LONG-GRAIN, BROWN 1:3 4 40 m in utes

RICE, LONG-GRAIN, W HITE 1:1 V i 3 12 to 15 m in utes

RICE, SHORT-GRAIN, BROWN 1:2 V 2 4 30 to 35 m inutes

RICE, SHORT-GRAIN, W HITE 1:1 to I V 2 3 20 to 30 m in utes

RICE,W ILD 1:4 5 40 to 45 m inutes

RICE, W ILD, PECAN l- .V A 4 2 0 m in utes

WHEAT BERRIES 1:3 2 1 hour

WHEAT, BULGUR, SOAKED* 1:4 2 2 hours

WHEAT, BULGUR, PILAF* 1:2 V i 2 15 to 20 m in utes

WHEAT, CRACKED® 1:2 3 20 m in utes

+Grain should be soaked b riefly in tepid water, then drained before it is steamed.
+Grain should be soaked overnight in cold water, then drained before it is cooked.
§Grain may be cooked by covering it w ith boiling water and soaking fo r 2 hours, or by the pila f cooking method.

1162 A P P E N D IX
Weight Measure Conversions
U.S. METRIC

V i OUNCE 7 gram s

V 2 OUNCE 14 gram s

1 OUNCE 2 8 .3 5 gram s

4 OUNCES 1 1 3 gram s

8 OUNCES (V 2 POUND) 2 2 7 gram s

16 OUNCES (1 POUND) 4 5 4 gram s

32 OUNCES (2 POUNDS) 9 0 7 gram s

4 0 OUNCES (2 V 2 POUNDS) 1 .1 3 4 kilo g ra m s

Volume Measure Conversions

U.S. METRIC

1 TEASPOON 5 m illilite rs

1 TABLESPOON 15 m illilite r s

1 FLUID OUNCE (2 TABLESPOONS) 3 0 m illilite r s

2 FLUID OUNCES [lA CUP) 6 0 m illilite rs

8 FLUID OUNCES (1 CUP) 2 4 0 m illilite rs

16 FLUID OUNCES (1 PINT) 4 8 0 m illilite rs

32 FLUID OUNCES (1 QUART) 9 6 0 m illilite r s (0.95 lite r)

1 2 8 FLUID OUNCES (1 GALLON) 3 .8 4 lite rs

These measurements are exact. For ease o f use in the kitchen, the measurements in the recipes
are rounded to the nearest whole number.

AP PE N D IX 1163
 Temperature Conversions
DEGREES FAHRENHEIT (°F) DEGREES CELSIUS (°C)*

32° 0°
O
0

4°
—1
O
-J^

60°
O
I
i- H

O
O
LO

66°

16 0° 71°

17 0° 77°

212° 100°

275° 135°

300° 14 9°

325° 16 3°

350° 17 7°

375° 19 1°

400° 204°

425° 218°

450° 232°

475° 246°

500° 260°

^Celsius temperatures have been rounded.

Common Unit Conversions

U.S. MEASURE VOLUME VOLUME (FLUID OUNCES)

1 POUND 16 ounces (w e igh t) Varies by p ro d u c t

1 GALLON 4 q u a rts 1 2 8 flu id ounces

1 QUART 2 p in ts 3 2 flu id ounces

1 PINT 2 cups 16 flu id ounces

1 CUP 16 ta b le sp o o n s 8 flu id ounces

1 TABLESPOON 3 te a sp o o n s V 2 flu id ounce

1164 A P P E N D IX
Information, Hints, and Tips fo r Calculations

1 ga llo n = 4 q u a rts = 8 p in ts = 16 cups (8 flu id ounces pe r cup) = 1 2 8 flu id ounces

1 f if t h b o ttle = a p p ro x im a te ly I V 2 p in ts o r e x a c tly 2 5 .6 flu id ounces

1 m ea surin g cup holds 8 flu id ounces (a c o ffe e cup ge n e ra lly holds 6 flu id ounces)

1 egg w h ite = 2 flu id ounces (average)

1 lem on = 1 to V-A flu id ounces ju ic e

1 orange = 3 to 3 lA flu id ounces ju ice

to convert ounces and pounds to grams:

M u ltip ly ounces by 2 8 .3 5 ; m u ltip ly pounds by 4 5 3 .5 9

to convert Fahrenheit to Celsius:

( ° F - 3 2 ) / 1 . 8 = °C

to convert ounces and pounds to grams:

M u ltip ly ounces by 2 8 .3 5 to d e te rm in e gram s; d ivid e pounds by 2.2 to d e te rm in e
kilo g ra m s

to convert grams to ounces or pounds:

D ivide gram s by 2 8 .3 5 to d e te rm in e ounces; d ivid e gram s by 4 5 3 .5 9 to d e te rm in e
pounds

to convert fluid ounces to milliliters:

M u ltip ly flu id ounces by 3 0 to d e te rm in e m illilite rs

to convert milliliters to fluid ounces:

D ivide m illilite rs by 3 0 to d e te rm in e flu id ounces

metric prefixes
kilo = 1,0 00
he cto = 100
deka = 10
deci = 1 /1 0
ce n ti = 1 /1 0 0
m illi = 1 /1 0 0 0

converting to common unit of measure:

To c o n v e rt m ea sure m ents to a com m on u n it (by w e ig h t o r volum e), use th e c h a rt on
th e fo llo w in g page. This in fo rm a tio n is used b o th to c o n v e rt scaled m easurem ents
in to p ra c tic a l and e a sy-to -u se re cip e m easures and to d e te rm in e costs.

A P PE N D IX 11
 Weights and Measures Equivalents

volum e

D ash/pinch less than Vs tea spoo n

3 tea spoo ns 1 ta b le sp o o n (V2 flu id ounce)

2 ta b le sp o o n s Vb cup (1 flu id ounce)

4 ta b le s p o o n s V 4 cup (2 flu id ounces)

5 lA ta b le sp o o n s V 3 cup (2 2/3 flu id ounces)

8 ta b le sp o o n s V2 cup (4 flu id ounces)

1 0 2/3 ta b le sp o o n s 2/3 cup (5V3 flu id ounces)

12 ta b le sp o o n s 3/4 c u p (6 flu id ounces)

14 ta b le sp o o n s Vb cup (7 flu id ounces)

16 ta b le sp o o n s 1 cup

1 giU 5 flu id ounces

1 cup 8 flu id ounces (2 4 0 m illilite rs )

2 cups 1 p in t (4 8 0 m illilite rs )

2 p in ts 1 q u a rt (9 6 0 m illilite rs ; approx. 1 lite r)

4 q u a rts 1 g a llo n (3.84 lite rs )

8 qu arts 1 peck (7.68 lite rs )

4 pecks 1 bushel (31 lite rs )

w eight

1 ounce 2 8 .3 5 gram s (round to 28)

16 ounces 1 pound (4 5 3 .5 9 gram s, round to 4 5 4)

1 kilogra m 2.2 pounds

1166 A P P E N D IX
glossary
ABALONE: A mollusk w ith a single shell approxim ately 6 in /1 5
cm long and a large, edible adductor muscle. Abalones are
generally cut and pounded into steaks before being sauteed
or g rille d and have a chewy te x tu re w ith a mild flavor.
ABOYEUR: Expediter or announcer; a sta tio n in the kitchen b ri­
gade system. The aboyeur accepts orders fro m the dining
room, relays them to the appropriate sta tio ns o f the kitchen,
and checks each plate before it leaves the kitchen.
ACID: A substance th a t te s ts lower than 7 on the pH scale. Acids
have a sour or sharp flavor. A cid ity occurs naturally in many
foods, including citru s juice, vinegar, wine, and sour m ilk
products. Acids act as tenderizers in marinades, helping to
break down connective tissues and cell walls.
ADULTERATED FOOD: Food th a t has been contam inated to the
p o in t th a t it is considered u n fit fo r human consumption.
AEROBIC BACTERIA: Bacteria th a t require the presence o f oxy­
gen to function.
AIOLI: Garlic mayonnaise, o fte n used as a condim ent w ith fish
and meat. In Italian, allio li; in Spanish, aliolio.
A LA CARTE: A menu fro m which the patron makes individual
selections in various menu categories; each item is priced
separately.
A LANGLAISE: French te rm fo r foods th a t have been prepared "in
the English way.” Refers to foods th a t have been breaded and
frie d , or boiled, or poached.
ALBUMEN: The egg white. Makes up about 70 percent o f the egg
and contains m ost o f the pro te in in the egg.
AL DENTE: L iterally, "to the to o th"; refe rs to an item, such as
pasta or vegetables, cooked u n til it is te n de r but s till firm ,
not soft.
ALKALI: A substance th a t te s ts a t higher than 7 on the pH scale.
Alkalis are som etim es described as having a slig h tly soapy
flavor. Can be used to balance acids. Olives and baking soda
are some o f the fe w alkaline foods.
ALLUMETTE: Vegetable cut, usually re fe rrin g to potatoes cut
into pieces the size and shape o f m atchsticks, Ve in by Vs in
by 1 to 2 in /3 mm by 3 mm by 3 to 5 cm. Also called julienne.
AMANDINE: Garnished w ith almonds.
AMINO ACIDS: The building blocks o f proteins. O f the 20 amino
acids in the human diet, 9 are called "essential" because
they cannot be produced by the body and m ust be supplied
through a person's diet.
AMUSE-GUEULE: French fo r "appetizer." Chef’s tasting: a small
po rtio n (1 or 2 bites) o f som ething exotic, unusual, or
yudhacookbook.com
otherw ise special, served when the guests in a restaurant
are seated. The amuse is n o t listed on a menu and is included
in the price o f an entree.
ANAEROBIC BACTERIA: Bacteria th a t do not require oxygen to
function.
ANGEL FOOD CAKE: A type o f sponge cake made w ith o u t egg
yolks or other fa ts. Beaten egg whites give it its light and airy
structu re . Typically baked in a tube pan.
ANTIOXIDANTS: N aturally occurring substances th a t retard the
breakdown o f tissues in the presence o f oxygen. May be
added to fo o d during processing or may occur naturally. Help
to prevent food fro m becoming rancid or discolored due to
oxidation.
ANTIPASTO: L iterally, “ before the meal.” Typically, a p la tte r o f
hot or cold hors d'oeuvre th a t may include meats, olives,
cheeses, and vegetables.
APERITIF: A lig h t alcoholic beverage consumed before the meal
to stim ulate the appetite.
APPAREIL: A prepared m ixture o f ingredients used alone or in
another preparation.
APPETIZER: L ight food served before a meal or as the fir s t
course o f a meal. May be hot or cold, plated or served as
fin g e r food.
AQUACULTURE: The farm raising o f fish or shellfish in natural or
co n tro lle d marine tanks or ponds.
ARBORIO: A high-starch short-grain rice tra d itio n a lly used in the
p reparation o f riso tto .
AROMATICS: Ingredients such as herbs, spices, vegetables, c it­
rus fru its , wines, and vinegars used to enhance the fla vo r and
fragrance o f food.
AROMATIZED WINE: F o rtifie d wine infused w ith any o f a wide
va rie ty o f arom atic plants or b itte r herbs, roots, bark, or
other plant pa rts (e.g., verm outh).
ARROWROOT: A powdered starch made fro m the ro o t o f a tro p i­
cal plant o f the same name. Used p rim arily as a thickener.
Remains clear when cooked.
ASPIC: A clear je lly made from stock (or occasionally fr u it or
vegetable juice) thickened w ith gelatin. Used to coat foods
or cubed and used as a garnish.
AS-PURCHASED (AP) WEIGHT: The weight o f an item as received
fro m the supplier before trim m in g or oth er preparation (as
opposed to e d ib le -p o rtion [EP] weight).
G LO S S A R Y 1167
 b BAVARIAN CREAM, BAVAROIS: A mousse-like dessert made
from vanilla sauce fla vo re d w ith a fr u it puree or juice, lig h t­
BACTERIA: M icroscopic organisms. Some have beneficial prop­
ened w ith whipped cream, and stabilized w ith gelatin.
erties; others can cause food-borne illnesses when foods
contam inated w ith them are ingested. BEARNAISE: A classic b u tte r emulsion, sim ilar to hollandaise,

BAGUETTE: A loaf o f bread o f French origin, made w ith 12 to made w ith egg yolks, a reduction o f w hite wine, shallots,

16 o z/3 40 to 4 54 g o f dough, shaped into a long, skinny and tarragon. Also, b u tte r finished w ith tarragon and

loaf th a t ranges fro m 2 to 3 in /5 to 8 cm in diam eter and chervil.

18 to 24 in /4 6 to 61 cm in length. The dough, made o f flour, BECHAMEL: A w h ite sauce made o f m ilk thickened w ith a pale
water, salt, and yeast, yields a paper-thin crisp crust and a roux and flavored w ith w h ite mirepoix. One o f the "grand”
light, airy crumb. sauces.

BAIN-MARIE: The French te rm fo r a w a te r bath used to cook BENCH-PROOF: In yeast dough production, to allow dough to
fo o ds g ently by surrounding the cooking vessel w ith sim ­ rise a fte r it has been panned and ju s t before it is baked.
m ering water. Also, a set o f cylindrical nesting inserts used
BEURRE BLANC: L iterally, "w hite butter." A classic em ulsified
to hold foods in a w a te r bath or, w ith a single, long handle,
sauce made w ith a reduction o f w h ite wine and shallots,
used as a double boiler. Also, steam table inserts.
thickened w ith whole b u tte r and possibly finished w ith
BAKE: To cook food by surrounding it w ith dry heat in a closed fresh herbs or o th er seasonings.
environm ent, as in an oven.
BEURRE FONDU: M elted butter.
BAKE BLIND: To p a rtia lly or com pletely bake an unfilled pastry
BEURRE MANIE: L iterally, “kneaded butter.” A m ixture o f equal
crust by lining it w ith parchm ent and fillin g w ith weights
parts by w eight o f whole b u tte r and flour, used to thicken
th a t are removed during or a fte r baking.
gravies and sauces.
BAKING POWDER: A chemical leavener made w ith an alkaline
BEURRE NOIR: Literally, "black butter." B u tte r th a t has been
and an acidic ingredient, m ost commonly sodium bicar­
cooked to a very dark brown or nearly black. Also, a sauce
bonate (baking soda) and cream o f ta rta r. When exposed
made w ith browned butter, vinegar, chopped parsley, and
to liquid, it produces carbon dioxide gas, which leavens
capers, usually served w ith fish.
doughs and ba tters. Double-acting baking powder contains
BEURRE NOISETTE: Lite ra lly,"h a ze ln ut butter,” meaning brown
ingredients th a t produce tw o leavening reactions: one upon
exposure to liquid, the second when heated. butter. Whole b u tte r th a t has been heated u n til browned to
a hazelnut color.
BAKING SODA: Sodium bicarbonate, a leavening agent th a t,
when combined w ith an acidic ingredient and m oisture, BINDER: An ingredient or appareil used to thicken a sauce or

releases carbon dioxide gas and leavens baked goods. hold to g e th e r another m ixture o f ingredients.

BARBECUE: To cook food by g rillin g it over a wood or charcoal BISQUE: A soup based on crustaceans or a vegetable puree. It

fire . O ften a marinade or sauce is brushed on the item dur­ is classically thickened w ith rice and usually finished w ith

ing cooking. Also, m eat cooked in th is way. cream.

BARD: To cover a naturally lean m eat w ith slabs or strip s o f fa t BIVALVE: A mollusk w ith tw o hinged shells. Examples are clams,

such as bacon or fa tb ack th a t baste it during roasting or scallops, oysters, and mussels.

braising. The fa t is usually tie d on w ith butcher’s twine. BLANC: A preparation containing water, flour, onion, cloves,

BARQUETTE: A boat-shaped ta r t or ta rtle t, which may have a a bouquet garni, salt, and lemon juice. Used to cook veg­

sweet or savory fillin g . etables such as mushrooms, celeriac, salsify, or cauliflow er

to keep them white.
BASTE: To m oisten fo o d during cooking w ith pan drippings,
sauce, or oth er liquid. Basting prevents fo o d from drying BLANCH: To cook an item b rie fly in boiling w a te r or hot fa t

out. before fin ish in g or sto rin g it. Blanching preserves the color,
lessens strong flavors, and aids in rem oving the peels of
BATCH COOKING: A cooking technique in which a p p ro p ri­
some fru its and vegetables.
ately sized quantities o f fo o d are prepared several tim es
BLANQUETTE: A w h ite stew, usually o f veal but sometim es o f
throughout a service period so th a t a fresh supply o f
chicken or lamb w ith w h ite onions and mushrooms. It is
cooked item s is always available.
served w ith a sauce th a t has been thickened w ith a liaison.
BAT0N/BAT0NNET: Items cut into pieces somewhat larger
than a llum ette or julienne; V4 in by V4 in by 1 to 2 in/ 6 mm BLEND: A m ixture o f tw o or more fla vo rs combined to achieve a

by 6 mm by 3 to 5 cm. French fo r "s tick” or “ small stick.” p a rticu la r fla vo r or quality. Also, to mix tw o or more ingre­
dients to g e th e r un til combined.
BATTER: A m ixture o f flo u r and liquid, som etim es w ith the in­
clusion o f o ther ingredients. B atters vary in thickness but BLINI: A silver do lla r-size yeast-raised buckwheat pancake

are generally sem iliquid and th in n er than doughs. Used in o riginating in Russia.

such preparations as cakes, quick breads, pancakes, and BLOOM: To hydrate gelatin in liquid before dissolving. Also, the
crepes. Also, a liquid m ixture used to coat foods before lig h t gray film on the skin o f apples, blueberries, grapes,
deep frying. and prunes. Also, streaks o f w h ite /g ra y fa t or sugar th a t
appear on solid, untem pered chocolate.

1168 G LO S S A R Y
BOIL: To cook fo o d by fu lly im m ersing it in liquid a t the boiling
point (212°F/100°C).
BORSCHT: A soup origina tin g in Russia and Poland, made from
fresh beets and garnished w ith sour cream. May include an
assortm ent o f vegetables and /o r meat, and may be served
hot or cold.
BOTULISM: A food-borne illness caused by toxins produced by
the anaerobic bacterium C lostridium botulinum .
BOUCHER: French fo r "butcher."
BOUILLABAISSE: A hearty fish and shellfish stew flavored w ith
tom atoes, onions, garlic, w h ite wine, and saffron. A tra d i­
tio n a l specialty o f M arseilles, France.
BOUILLON: French fo r"b ro th .”
BOULANGER: Baker, sp e cifica lly o f breads and o ther unsweet­
ened doughs.
BOUQUET GARNI: A small bundle o f herbs tie d w ith string.
Used to fla v o r stocks, braises, and o ther preparations.
Usually contains bay leaf, parsley, thyme, and possibly
o th er arom atics wrapped in leek leaves.
BRAISE: To cook a food, usually meat, by searing in fa t, then
sim m ering slowly a t a low tem perature in a small amount o f
sto ck or another liquid (usually halfway up the m eat item )
in a covered vessel. The cooking liquid is then reduced and
used as the base o f a sauce.
BRAN: The ou ter layer o f a cereal grain; the p a rt highest in fiber.
BRANDY: S p irit made by d is tillin g wine or the fe rm ented mash
o f fru it. May be aged in oak barrels.
BRASIER/BRAZIER: A pan designed sp e cifica lly fo r braising
th a t usually has tw o handles and a tig h t-fittin g lid. O ften
round but may be square or rectangular. Also called a
rondeau.
BREAD: A p roduct made o f flour, sugar, shortening, salt, and
liquid, leavened by the action o f yeast. Also, to coat food
w ith flour, eggs, and crumbs before fry in g or baking.
BRIGADE SYSTEM: The kitchen organization system in stitu te d
by G eorges-Auguste Escoffier. Each position has a sta tio n
and w ell-defined responsibilities.
BRINE: A solution o f salt, water, and seasonings, used to pre­
serve or m oisten foods.
BRIOCHE: A rich yeast dough, tra d itio n a lly baked in a flu te d
pan, w ith a d istin ctive to p k n o t o f dough.
BRISKET: A cut o f be e f fro m the lower forequarter, best suited
fo r long-cooking m ethods such as braising. Corned beef is
cured beef brisket.
BROIL: To cook fo o d by means o f a radiant heat source placed
above it.
BROILER: The piece o f equipm ent used to broil foods.
BROTH: A fla v o rfu l, arom atic liquid made by sim m ering w ater
or stock w ith meat, vegetables, and /o r spices and herbs.
BROWN SAUCE: A sauce made fro m a brown stock and arom at­
ics and thickened by roux, a pure starch slurry, and /o r a
reduction; includes sauce espagnole, demi-glace, jus de
veau lie, and pan sauces.
BROWN STOCK: An amber liquid produced by simmering
browned bones and m eat (usually veal or beef) w ith veg­
etables and arom atics (including caramelized m irepoix and
to m a to puree).
BRUISE: To p a rtia lly crush a fo o d item in order to release its
flavor.
BRUNOISE: A dice cut o f V8-in/3-m m cubes. For brunoise cut,
item s are fir s t cut in julienne, then cut crosswise. For fine
brunoise, a V l6 -in /1 .50 -m m cube, cut item s fir s t in fine
julienne.
BUTCHER: A chef or purveyor who is responsible fo r breaking
down meats, poultry, and occasionally fish. In the brigade
system, the butcher may also be responsible fo r breading
m eat and fish item s and o ther mise en place operations
involving meat.
BUTTER: A sem isolid fa t made by churning cream; must contain
a t least 80 percent m ilk fa t.
BUTTERCREAM: An icing made o f butter, sugar, and eggs or
custard, used to garnish cakes and pastries. The fo u r types
are Italian, Swiss, French, and German.
BUTTERFLYTo cut an item (usually m eat or seafood) and open
o ut the edges like a book or the wings o f a b u tte rfly.
BUTTERMILK: A dairy beverage w ith a slig h tly sour fla vo r sim i­
lar to th a t o f yogurt. T raditionally the liquid by-product o f
b u tte r churning, now usually made by culturing skim milk.
c
CAJUN: A hearty cuisine based on French and southern in flu ­
ences; signature ingredients include spices, dark roux,
pork fa t, file powder, green peppers, onions, and celery.
Jambalaya is a tra d itio n a l Cajun dish.
CALORIE: A unit o f measure o f food energy. It is the amount o f
energy needed to raise the tem perature o f 1 kilogram o f
w a te r by 1°C.
CANADIAN BACON: Smoked eye o f the pork loin. Referred to
as peameal or back bacon in Canada, Canadian bacon is
leaner than slab bacon and purchased precooked.
CANAPE: An hors d'oeuvre consisting o f a small piece o f bread
or to a st, o fte n cut in a decorative shape, garnished w ith a
savory spread or topping.
CARAMELIZATION:The process o f browning sugar in the pres­
ence o f heat. The caram elization o f sugar occurs between
320° and 3 6 0 °F /1 6 0 ° and 182°C.
CARBOHYDRATE: One o f the basic n u trie n ts used by the body
as a source o f energy. Types are simple (sugars) and com­
plex (starches and fibers).
CARBON DIOXIDE: A colorless, tasteless, edible gas obtained
through fe rm e n ta tio n or fro m the com bination o f soda and
acid, which acts to leaven baked goods.
CARRYOVER COOKING: The heat retained in cooked foods
th a t allows them to continue cooking even a fte r removal
fro m the cooking medium. Especially im p orta n t to roasted
foods.
G LO S S A R Y 1169
 CASING: A syn th etic or natural membrane (if natural, usu­
ally pig or sheep intestines) used to enclose sausage
forcem eat.
CASSEROLE: A lidded cooking vessel, used in the oven; usually
round w ith tw o handles. Also, fo o d cooked in a casserole,
o fte n bound w ith a sauce and topped w ith cheese or bread
crumbs.
CASSOULET: A stew o f w hite beans baked w ith pork or other
meats, duck or goose co n fit, and seasonings.
CAUL FAT: A fa tty membrane fro m the abdominal cavity o f a pig
or sheep, resem bling fine netting; used to bard roasts and
pates and to encase sausage forcem eat.
CELLULOSE: A complex carbohydrate; the main structu ra l com­
ponent o f plant cells.
CEPHALOPOD: Marine creatures whose te n tacle s and arms are
attached d ire c tly to th e ir heads, such as squid and octopus.
CHAFING DISH: A m etal dish w ith a heating unit (flam e or elec­
tric), used to keep foods warm and to cook foods tableside
or during b u ffe t service.
CHAMPAGNE: A sparkling w h ite wine produced in the
Champagne region o f France using three grape varieties:
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. The term is
som etim es in co rre ctly applied to o ther sparkling wines.
CHARCUTERIE:The preparation o f pork and o ther meat
items, such as hams, terrines, sausages, pates, and other
forcem eats.
CHARCUTIERE:The person who prepares charcuterie items. A
la charcutiere, meaning “in the style o f the butcher’s wife,"
refers to item s (usually grilled meat) th a t are served w ith
sauce R obert and finished w ith a julienne o f gherkins.
CHATEAUBRIAND: A cut o f meat from the th ick end o f the
tenderloin. Traditionally cut th ick and served w ith chateau
potatoes and bearnaise sauce.
CHAUD-FROID: Literally, "hot-cold." A food prepared hot but
served cold as p a rt o f a b u ffe t display, coated w ith brown
or w hite sauce, then glazed w ith aspic.
CHEESECLOTH: A light, fine mesh gauze used fo r straining
liquids and making sachets.
CHEF DE PARTIE: S tation chef. In the brigade system, these
are the line cook positions, such as saucier, grillardin, and
so fo rth .
CHEF DE RANG: F ront w aiter. The w a ite r responsible fo r prop­
erly set tables, proper delivery o f foods to a table, and
m eeting the guests' needs. A dem i-chef de rang is a back
w a ite r or busboy.
CHEF DE SALLE: Headwaiter. Responsible fo r service through­
out the restaurant. May be covered by the m aitre d' or
captain.
CHEF DE SERVICE: D ire ctor o f service.
CHEF DE VIN: Wine steward. Responsible fo r purchasingthe
restaurant's wine, helping guests make wine selections, and
se rving th e guests'w ine. Also known as the sommelier.
1170 G LO S S A R Y
CHEF'S KNIFE: An all-purpose knife used fo r chopping, slicing,
and mincing; its blade is usually between 8 and 14 in/20
and 36 cm long.
CHEF’S POTATO: All-purpose p o tato w ith a thin, speckled skin
and waxy flesh. Used mainly fo r sauteing and boiling.
CHEMICAL LEAVENER: An ingredient such as baking soda or
com bination o f ingredients (baking powder) whose chemi­
cal action produces carbon dioxide gas. Used to leaven
baked goods.
CHERRYSTONE: A medium-size (less than 3 in/ 8 cm across the
shell) hard-shell clam indigenous to the East Coast o f the
United States; may be served raw or cooked.
CHIFFON: A cake made by the foam ing method; contains a high
percentage o f eggs and sugar and relative ly little , if any,
fa t to produce a lig h t and airy cake.
CHIFFONADE: Fine shreds o f leafy vegetables or herbs; often
used as a garnish.
CHILE: The fr u it o f certain types o f capsicum peppers (not
related to black pepper), used fresh or dry as a seasoning.
Chiles come in many va rietie s (e.g., jalapeno, serrano, po-
blano) and range in degrees o f spiciness.
CHILI: A stewed dish o f beans and /o r meat, flavored w ith chili
powder.
CHILI POWDER: Ground or crushed dried chiles, o fte n w ith
other ground spices and herbs added.
CHINE: The backbone. A cut o f m eat th a t includes the back­
bone. Also, to separate the backbone and ribs to fa c ilita te
carving.
CHINOIS: A conical sieve w ith fine wire mesh, used to strain
foods.
CHOLESTEROL: A substance found exclusively in animal prod­
ucts such as meat, eggs, and cheese (dietary cholesterol)
or in the blood (serum cholesterol).
CHOP: To cut into pieces o f roughly the same size. Also, a small
cut o f m eat including p a rt o f the rib.
CHOUCROUTE: Sauerkraut cooked w ith goose fa t, onions, ju n i­
per berries, and w hite wine. Choucroute garni is sauerkraut
garnished w ith various meats.
CHOWDER: A th ick soup th a t may be made from a va rie ty o f
ingredients but usually contains potatoes.
CIGUATERA TOXIN: A toxin found in certain fish (harmless to
the fish) th a t causes illness in humans when eaten. The
poisoning is caused by the fis h ’s d ie t and is not eradicated
by cooking or freezing.
CIOPPINO: A fish stew usually made w ith w hite wine and to m a ­
toes, believed to have originated in Genoa and popularized
by Italian im m igrants in San Francisco.
CLARIFICATION:The process o f rem oving solid im purities from
a liquid such as b u tte r or stock. Also, a m ixture o f ground
meat, egg whites, m irepoix, to m a to puree, herbs, and
spices used to c la rify broth fo r consomme.
CLARIFIED BUTTER: B u tte r fro m which the m ilk solids and wa­
te r have been removed, leaving pure b u tte rfa t. Has a higher
smoke p o in t than whole b u tte r but less b u tte r flavor.
COAGULATION:The curdling or clum ping o f proteins, usually
due to the application o f heat or acid.
COARSE CHOP: To cut into pieces o f roughly the same size.
Used fo r item s such as m irepoix, where appearance is not
im portant.
COCOA: The pods o f the cacao tree, processed to remove the
cocoa b u tte r and ground into powder. Used as a flavoring.
COCOTTE: Casserole. A cooking dish w ith a tig h t-fittin g lid
fo r braising or stewing. Also, a small ramekin used fo r
cooking eggs. En co co tte is o fte n interchangeable w ith en
casserole.
CODDLED EGGS: Eggs cooked b rie fly (about 30 seconds) in
sim m ering w a te r in th e ir shells or in ramekins or special
coddlers, ju s t u n til set.
COLANDER: A p e rfo ra te d bowl, w ith or w ith o u t a base or legs,
used to strain liquids or drain them fro m solids.
COLLAGEN: A fib ro u s pro te in found in the connective tissue
o f animals, used to make glue and gelatin. Breaks down
into gelatin when cooked in a m oist environm ent fo r an
extended period o f tim e.
COMBINATION METHOD: A cooking m ethod th a t involves the
application o f both dry and m oist heat to the main item
(e.g., m eats seared in fa t, then simmered in a sauce fo r
braising or stewing).
COMMIS: Apprentice. A cook who works under a chef de partie
to learn the sta tio n and its responsibilities.
C0M MUNARD:The kitchen position responsible fo r preparing
s ta ff meals.
COMPLETE PROTEIN: A fo o d source th a t provides all o f the es­
sential amino acids in the co rre ct ratio so they can be used
in the body fo r pro te in synthesis. May require more than
one ingredient (such as beans and rice together).
COMPLEX CARBOHYDRATE: A large molecule made up o f long
chains o f sugar molecules. In food, these molecules are
found in starches and fiber.
COMPOSED SALAD: A salad in which the item s are carefully
arranged on a plate, rather than tossed together.
COMPOTE: A dish o f fresh or dried fr u it cooked in syrup, fla ­
vored w ith spices or liqueur. Also, a type o f small dish.
COMPOUND BUTTER: B u tte r combined w ith herbs or other
seasonings. Usually used to sauce g rilled or broiled items,
vegetables, or steamed dessert puddings.
CONCASSER: To pound or chop coarsely. Concasse usually
refers to tom atoes th a t have been peeled, seeded, and
chopped.
CONDIMENT: An arom atic m ixture, such as pickles, chutney,
and some sauces and relishes, th a t accompanies food.
Usually kept on the table thro u g h o u t service.
CONDUCTION: A m ethod o f heat tra n sfe r in which heat is
tra n s m itte d through another substance. In cooking, when
heat is tra n sm itte d to fo o d through a p o t or pan, oven
racks, or g rill rods.
CONFISERIE: Confectionery or candy. A confiseur is a patissier
specializing in, and responsible for, the production o f can­
dies and related item s such as p e tits fours.
CONFIT: M eat (usually goose, duck, or pork) cooked gently and
preserved in its own fa t.
CONSOMME: Broth th a t has been cla rifie d using a m ixture o f
ground meat, egg whites, and o ther ingredients th a t trap
im p uritie s to re su lt in a p e rfe ctly clear broth.
CONVECTION: A m ethod o f heat tra n s fe r in which heat is trans­
m itte d through the circulation o f air or water.
CONVECTION OVEN: An oven th a t employs convection cur­
rents by fo rcin g hot air through fans so it circulates around
food, cooking it quickly and evenly.
CONVERTED RICE: Rice th a t has been pressure-steam ed and
dried before m illing to remove surface starch and retain
nutrients. Also known as parboiled rice.
COQUILLES ST. JACQUES: Scallops. Also, a dish o f broiled scal­
lops w ith a creamy wine sauce, gratineed and served in the
shell.
CORAL: L obster roe, which is red or coral-colored when cooked.
CORNICHON: A small, sour pickled cucumber. O ften an accom­
panim ent to pates and smoked meats.
CORNSTARCH: A fin e w h ite powder milled from dried corn;
used prim a rily as a thickener fo r sauce and occasionally as
an ingredient in batters.
COTTAGE CHEESE: A fresh cheese made from the drained curd
o f soured cow's milk.
COULIS: A th ick puree o f vegetables or fru it, served hot or cold.
T raditionally refe rs to the thickened juices o f cooked meat,
fish, or shellfish puree or certain th ick soups.
COUNTRY-STYLE: A term used to describe forcem eat th a t is
coarse in te xtu re , usually made from pork, pork fa t, liver,
and various garnishes.
COURT BOUILLON: L iterally, "short broth." An arom atic veg­
etable b roth th a t usually includes an acidic ingredient such
as wine or vinegar; m ost commonly used fo r poaching fish.
COUSCOUS: Pellets o f semolina or cracked wheat usually
cooked by steaming, tra d itio n a lly in a couscoussiere. Also,
the stew w ith which this grain is tra d itio n a lly served.
COUSCOUSSIERE: A set o f nesting pots, sim ilar to a steamer,
used to cook couscous.
COUVERTURE: Fine sem isweet chocolate used fo r coating and
decorating, th a t is extrem ely glossy and smooth. Chocolate
containing a m inimum o f 32 percent cocoa butter.
CREAM: The fa tty com ponent o f milk; available w ith various fa t
contents. Also, a m ixing method fo r b a tte rs and doughs in
which the sugar and fa t are beaten to g eth e r until light and
flu ffy before the o th er ingredients are added.
CREAM CHEESE: S o ft unripened cheese derived from cow's
m ilk, which m ust contain 33 percent m ilk fa t and 55 per­
cent or less m oisture. Used as a spread, a dip, in confec­
tions, and in dressings.
G LO S S A R Y 1171
 CREAM OF TARTAR: A salt o f ta rta ric acid used extensively in
baking, found in wine barrels a fte r fe rm e n tatio n . Used to
give s ta b ility and volume in whipping egg whites. O ften as
the acid component in baking powder.
CREAM PUFF: A pa stry made w ith pate a choux, fille d w ith
creme patissiere, and usually glazed. Also called a
p ro fite ro le .
CREAM SOUP: Traditionally, a soup based on a bechamel sauce.
Loosely, any soup finished w ith cream, a cream variant
such as sour cream, or a liaison.
CREME ANGLAISE: A s tirre d custard made w ith cream and/or
milk, sugar, eggs, and vanilla. May be served as a sauce or
used in pastry preparations such as Bavarian cream and ice
cream. Also known as vanilla sauce.
CREME BROLEE: Literally, “burnt cream" a baked custard
topped w ith sugar th a t is caramelized before service. The
caramelized sugar creates a dual-textured dessert w ith a
so ft, creamy custard and a b rittle sugar topping.
CREME FRAiCHE: Fleavy cream cultured to give it a th ick
consistency and a slig h tly tangy flavor. Used in hot prepa­
rations since it is less likely than sour cream or yogurt to
curdle when heated.
CREME PATISSIERE: Literally, "pastry cream." A stirre d custard
made w ith eggs, flo u r or o th e r starches, milk, sugar, and
flavorings, used to fill and garnish pastries or as the base
fo r souffles, creams, and mousses.
CREOLE: This sophisticated typ e o f cooking is a combination
o f French, Spanish, and A frican cuisines; signature ingre­
dients include butter, cream, tom atoes, file powder, green
peppers, onions, and celery. Gumbo is a tra d itio n a l Creole
dish.
CREPE: A thin pancake made w ith egg b a tter; used in sweet and
savory preparations.
CROISSANT: A pastry consisting o f a yeast dough w ith a b u tte r
roll-in, tra d itio n a lly form ed into a crescent shape.
CROSS CONTAMINATION:The transference o f disease-causing
elem ents from one source to another through physical
contact.
CROUSTADE: A small, edible baked or frie d container fo r meat,
chicken, or other m ixtures; usually made from pastry but
may be made fro m potatoes or pasta.
CROUTE, EN: Encased in a bread or pastry crust and baked.
CROUTON: A bread or pastry garnish, cut into bite-size pieces
and to a sted or sauteed u n til crisp.
CRUMB: A te rm used to describe the te xtu re o f baked goods;
fo r example, an item can be said to have a fine or coarse
crumb.
CRUSTACEAN: A class o f hard-shelled arthropods w ith elon­
gated bodies, p rim arily aquatic, th a t include edible species
such as lobster, crab, shrimp, and crayfish.
CUISSON: Shallow poaching liquid, including stock, fum et, or
oth er liquid, th a t may be reduced and used as a base fo r
the poached item's sauce.
1 172 G LO S S A R Y
CURD: The sem isolid po rtio n o f m ilk once it coagulates and
separates. Also, a sweet, creamy, pudding-like preparation
made o f fr u it juice (typica lly citrus), sugar, eggs, and butter.
CURE: To preserve a food by salting, smoking, pickling, and/or
drying.
CURING SALT: A m ixture o f 94 percent table salt (sodium chlo­
ride) and 6 percent sodium n itrite , used to preserve meats.
Also known as tin te d curing m ixture or TCM.
CURRY: A m ixture o f spices, used p rim arily in Indian cuisine.
May include turm eric, coriander, cumin, cayenne or other
chiles, cardamom, cinnamon, clove, fennel, fenugreek, gin­
ger, and garlic. Also, a stew -like dish seasoned w ith curry.
CUSTARD: A m ixture o f milk, beaten egg, and possibly other
ingredients such as sweet or savory flavorings, cooked
w ith gentle heat, o fte n in a bain-marie, double boiler, or
w a te r bath.
d
DAILY VALUES (DV): Standard n u tritio n a l values developed
by the U.S. Food and Drug A d m in istra tio n fo r use on food
labels.
DANGER ZONE: The tem perature range from 41° to 135°F/5°
to 57°C; the m ost favorable condition fo r rapid grow th o f
many pathogens.
DANISH PASTRY: A pastry o f rich yeast dough w ith a b u tte r
roll-in, possibly fille d w ith nuts, fru it, or o ther ingredients,
and iced.
DAUBE: A classic French stew o f meat, vegetables, and season­
ings braised in red wine, tra d itio n a lly cooked in a daubiere,
a specialized casserole w ith a tig h t-fittin g lid and indenta­
tions to hold h o t coals.
DEBEARD: To remove the shaggy, inedible fib e rs from a mussel.
These fib e rs anchor the mussel to its mooring.
DECK OVEN: An oven in which the heat source is located under­
neath the deck or flo o r; food is placed d ire ctly on the deck
instead o f on a rack.
DEEP FRY: To cook fo o d by immersion in hot fa t; deep-fried
foods are o fte n coated w ith bread crumbs or b a tte r before
cooking.
DEEP POACH: To cook fo o d gently in enough sim mering liquid
to com pletely submerge the food.
DEGLAZE/DEGLACER:To use a liquid such as wine, water, or
stock to dissolve food p articles and/or caramelized d rip ­
pings le ft in a pan a fte r roasting or sauteing. The resulting
mix then becomes the base fo r the accompanying sauce.
DEGREASE/DEGRAISSER:To skim the fa t o ff the surface o f a
liquid such as a stock or sauce.
DEMI-GLACE: Literally, “half-glaze.” A m ixture o f equal pro­
portions o f brown stock and brown sauce th a t has been
reduced by half. One o f the "grand" sauces.
DEPOUILLAGE: Skim m ing the im p uritie s from the surface o f a
cooking liquid such as a stock or sauce. This action is sim ­
p lifie d by placing the p o t o ff center on the burner (convec­
 tion simmer) and rem oving im purities as they co lle ct a t one
side o f the pot.
DEVILING: Seasoning meat, poultry, or oth er fo o d w ith mus­
tard, vinegar, and possibly oth er hot and spicy seasonings,
such as red pepper and Tabasco.
DICE:To cut ingredients into evenly sized small cubes (% in /6
mm fo r small, V 2 in /1 cm fo r medium, and
3/ 4 in / 2 cm fo r large are the standards).
DIE: The plate in a m eat grinder through which fo o d passes ju s t
before a blade cuts it. The size o f the die's opening d e te r­
mines the fineness o f the grind.
DIGESTIF: A s p irit usually consumed a fte r dining as an aid to
digestion. Examples include brandy and cognac.
DIRECT HEAT: A m ethod o f heat tra n s fe r in which heat waves
radiate fro m a source (e.g., an open burner or g rill) and
tra v e l d ire c tly to the item being heated w ith no conductor
between heat source and food. Examples are grilling, b ro il­
ing, and toasting. Also known as radiant heat.
DOCK: To cut the to p o f dough before baking to allow steam
to escape to co n tro l the expansion o f the dough a nd/or to
create a decorative e ffe c t.
DORE: Coated w ith egg yolk or cooked to a golden brown.
DRAWN: Describes a whole fish th a t has been g u tted but s till
has its head, fins, and ta il. Also refe rs to cla rifie d butter.
DREDGE: To coat fo o d w ith a dry ingredient such as flo u r or
bread crumbs p rio r to fry in g or sauteing.
DRESSED: Prepared fo r cooking. A dressed fish is g u tted and
scaled, and its head, ta il, and fin s are removed (also called
pan-dressed). Dressed p o u ltry is plucked, gutted, singed,
trim m ed, and trussed. Also, coated w ith dressing, as a
salad.
DRUM SIEVE: A sieve consisting o f a screen stretched across
a shallow cylinder o f wood or aluminum. Also known as a
tamis.
DRY CURE: A com bination o f salts and spices used to preserve
meats; o fte n used before sm oking to process meats and
forcem eats.
DRY SAUTE: To saute w ith o u t fa t, usually using a nonstick pan.
DUMPLING: Any o f a number o f sm all s o ft dough or b a tte r
item s, which are steamed, poached, or simmered (possibly
on to p o f a stew), baked, pan frie d , or deep frie d . May be
fille d or plain.
DURUM: A very hard w heat ty p ica lly m illed into semolina, p ri­
m arily used in making pasta.
DUST: To d is trib u te a film o f flour, sugar, cocoa powder, or o ther
such ingredients on pans or w ork surfaces, on a fo o d be­
fo re cooking, or on finished products as a garnish.
DUTCH OVEN: A ke ttle , usually o f cast iron, used fo r stewing
and braising on the stovetop or in the oven.
DUTCH PROCESS: A m ethod o f tre a tin g cocoa powder w ith an
alkali to reduce its acidity.
DUXELLES: An appareil o f fin e ly chopped mushrooms and shal­
lots sauteed g ently in butter. Used as a stu ffin g , garnish, or
as a fla vo rin g in soups and sauces.
ECLAIR: A long, thin baked shell o f pate a choux, fille d w ith
creme patissiere and glazed w ith chocolate fondant or
ganache.
EDIBLE-PORTION (EP) WEIGHT: The weight o f an item a fte r
trim m in g and preparation (as opposed to the as-purchased
[APJ weight).
EGG WASH: A m ixture o f beaten eggs (whole eggs, yolks, or
w hites) and a liquid, usually m ilk or water, used to coat
baked goods to give them a sheen.
EMINCER:To cut an item , usually meat, into very thin slices.
EMULSION: A m ixture o f tw o or more liquids, one o f which
is a fa t or oil and the o ther o f which is w a te r based, so
th a t tin y globules o f one are suspended in the other.
This may involve the use o f stabilizers such as egg or
m ustard. Emulsions may be tem porary, permanent, or
semiperm anent.
ENDOSPERM: The largest po rtio n o f the inside o f the seed o f
a flo w e ring plant such as wheat; composed prim arily o f
starch and protein. This is the po rtio n used p rim arily in
m illed grain products.
ENTRECOTE: Literally, "between the ribs.” A very tender steak
cut fro m between the ninth and eleventh ribs o f beef.
ENTREMETIER: Vegetable ch e f/sta tio n .T h e position responsi­
ble fo r hot appetizers and o fte n soups, vegetables, starch­
es, and pastas: may also be responsible fo r egg dishes.
ESCALOPE: A scallop o f meat; th is cut o f a small, boneless
piece o f m eat or fish o f uniform thickness is m ost often
sauteed.
ESPAGNOLE SAUCE: Literally, “ Spanish sauce." Brown sauce
made w ith brown stock, caramelized m irepoix, to m a to pu­
ree, seasonings, and roux.
ESSENCE: A concentrated fla vo rin g extracted from an item,
usually by infusion or d istilla tio n . Includes item s such
as vanilla and o th er e xtracts, concentrated stocks, and
fum ets.
ESTOUFFADE: A French stew o f wine-m oistened pieces o f
meat. Also, a typ e o f rich brown stock based on pork knuck­
le and veal and beef bones, o fte n used in braises.
ETHYLENE GAS: A gas e m itte d by various fru its and vegeta­
bles, th a t speeds ripening, maturing, and eventually rotting.
ETOUFFEE: Literally, "smothered." Refers to fo o d cooked by a
m ethod sim ilar to braising, except th a t item s are cooked
w ith little or no added liquid in a pan w ith a tig h t-fittin g lid
(also etuver, a I'etuvee). Also, a Cajun dish made w ith a dark
roux, crayfish, vegetables, and seasonings, served over a
bed o f w h ite rice.
EVAPORATED MILK: Unsweetened canned milk from which 60
percent o f the w a te r has been removed before canning.
O ften used in custards and to create a creamy te xtu re in
food.
EXTRUDER: A machine used to shape dough. The dough is
pushed o u t through p e rfo ra te d plates rather than rolled.
GLOSSARY 1173
 f FOIE GRAS: The fa tte n e d liver o f a duck or goose th a t has been
FABRICATION: The butchering, cutting, and trim m in g o f meat,
poultry, fish, and game (large pieces or whole) into sm aller
cuts to prepare them to be cooked.
FACULTATIVE BACTERIA: Bacteria th a t can survive both w ith
and w ith o u t oxygen.
FARCE: Literally, "s tu ffin g " in French. A fo rce m e a t or stu ffin g .
FARINA: A fin e w heat meal th a t can be eaten as a breakfast
cereal when cooked in boiling water, used in puddings, or
used as a thickener.
FAT: One o f the basic n u trie n ts used by the body to provide en­
ergy. Fats carry fla vo r in fo o d and give a fe e lin g o f fullness.
FATBACK: Pork fa t from the back o f the pig, used prim a rily fo r
barding, and also to make lard and cracklings.
FERMENTATION: The process o f yeast acting to break down
sugars into carbon dioxide gas and alcohol, which is es­
sential in bread leavening and beer, wine, and s p irit making.
Also, the period o f rising in yeast doughs.
FIBER/DIETARY FIBER: The stru ctu ra l component o f plants,
necessary to the human diet. Indigestible. Also refe rre d to
as roughage.
FILE: A thickener made fro m ground dried sassafras leaves;
used p rim arily in gumbo.
FILET MIGNON:The expensive boneless cut o f beef fro m the
small end o f the tenderloin.
FILLET/FILET: A boneless cut o f meat, fish, or poultry.
FINES HERBES: A m ixture o f herbs, usually parsley, chervil,
tarragon, and chives. Generally added to the dish ju s t p rior
to serving, as they lose th e ir fla vo r quickly.
FIRST IN, FIRST OUT (FIFO): A fundam ental storage principle
based on stock ro ta tio n . Products are stored and used so
th a t the oldest product is always used firs t.
FISH POACHER: A long, narrow po t w ith stra ig h t sides and pos­
sibly a p e rforated rack, used fo r poaching whole fish.
FIVE-SPICE POWDER: A m ixture o f equal parts ground cin­
namon, clove, fennel seed, star anise, and Szechwan
peppercorns.
FLAT FISH: A type o f fish characterized by its fla t body and
having both eyes on one side o f its head (e.g., sole, plaice,
flounder, and halibut).
FLATTOP: A th ick plate o f cast iron or steel se t over the heat
source on a range; d iffu ses heat, m aking it more even than
an open burner.
FLEURONS: Garnishes made from lig h t p u ff pa stry cut into
oval, diamond, or crescent shapes and served w ith meat,
fish, or soup.
FLORENTINE, A LA: Dishes prepared in the style o f Florence,
Italy; denotes the use o f spinach and som etim es Mornay
sauce or cheese.
FOAMING MIXING METHOD: A method o f producing b a tters
in which the main stru ctu ra l com ponent is a m ixture o f
eggs (whole and /o r separated yolks and w hites) and sugar,
whipped to incorporate large q u a ntitie s o f air.
1174 G LO S S A R Y
fo rce -fe d over a fo u r- to five-m onth period.
FOLD: To g ently combine ingredients (especially foams) so as
not to release trapped a ir bubbles. Also, to gently mix to ­
ge the r tw o item s, usually a light, airy m ixture w ith a denser
m ixture. Also, the m ethod o f turning, rolling, and layering
dough over on its e lf to produce a fla k y texture.
FOND: The French te rm fo r stock. Also, the pan drippings re­
maining a fte r sauteing or roasting food, o fte n deglazed
and used as a base fo r sauces.
FONDANT: A w h ite paste made fro m liquid (usually w ater or
corn syrup) and sugar, th a t has been dissolved, heated, and
agita te d during cooling. Used as a fillin g and glaze fo r pas­
trie s and confections.
FOOD-BORNE ILLNESS: An illness in humans caused by the
consumption o f an adulterated food product. For an o f­
fic ia l d eterm ination th a t an outbreak o f food-borne illness
has occurred, tw o or more people m ust have become ill
a fte r eating the same food, and the outbreak m ust be con­
firm e d by health o fficia ls.
FOOD COST: Cost o f all fo o d purchased to prepare item s fo r
sale in a restaurant.
FOOD MILL: A strain e r w ith a crank-operated curved blade,
used to puree s o ft foods while straining them.
FOOD PROCESSOR: A machine w ith interchangeable blades
and disks and a removable bowl and lid separate from the
m oto r housing. Can be used fo r a va rie ty o f tasks including
chopping, grinding, pureeing, em ulsifying, kneading, slicing,
shredding, and c u ttin g into julienne.
FORCEMEAT: An emulsion o f chopped or ground meat, fa t, and
a binder, used fo r pates, sausages, and oth er preparations.
The fo u r types are mousseline, straight, country-style, and
gratin.
FORK-TENDER: A degree o f doneness in braised foods and
vegetables; fo rk -te n d e r foods are easily pierced or cut by a
fo rk, or should slide readily fro m a fo rk when lifte d .
FORMULA: A recipe in which m easurements fo r each ingredi­
ent are given as percentages o f the weight fo r the main
ingredient.
FORTIFIED WINE: Wine to which a sp irit, usually brandy, has
been added (e.g., Marsala, Madeira, port, or sherry).
FREE-RANGE: Refers to livestock th a t is raised unconfined.
FRENCH:To cut and scrape m eat from rib bones before
cooking.
FRICASSEE: A stew o f po u ltry or other w hite m eat w ith a w hite
sauce.
FRITTER: Sweet or savory fo o d coated or mixed into b a tte r and
deep frie d . Also called beignet.
FRITURIER: Fry ch e f/sta tio n . The position responsible fo r all
frie d foods; may be combined w ith the rotisseur position.
FRUCTOSE: A sim ple sugar found in fru its . Fructose is the
sw eetest simple sugar.
FUMET: A typ e o f stock in which the main fla vo rin g ingredient
is allowed to cook in a lidded p o t w ith wine and arom atics.
Fish fu m e t is the m ost common type.
g GRATIN: A cheese or bread crumb topping browned in an oven
GALANTINE: Boned m eat (usually poultry), s tu ffe d w ith fo rc e ­
meat, rolled, poached, and served cold, usually coated w ith
aspic.
GANACHE: A preparation o f chocolate and heavy cream, and
som etim es butter, sugar, and o ther flavorings. Among o th ­
er things, it is used as a sauce, glaze, and fillin g , or to make
confections. Can range fro m s o ft to hard, depending on the
ratio o f chocolate to cream.
GARBURE: A th ick vegetable soup, usually containing beans,
cabbage, and /o r potatoes.
GARDE MANGER: Pantry ch e f/sta tio n . The position respon­
sible fo r cold food preparation, including salads, a ppetiz­
ers, and pates.
GARNI: Literally, "garnished.” Used to describe dishes accompa­
nied by vegetables and potatoes.
GARNISH: An edible decoration or accompanim ent to a dish or
item.
GAZPACHO: A cold soup made fro m vegetables, typ ica lly to m a ­
toes, cucumbers, peppers, and onions.
GELATIN: A protein-based substance found in animal bones and
connective tissue. When dissolved in hot liquid and then
cooled, it can be used as a thickener and stabilizer.
GELATION: A phase in the process o f thickening a liquid w ith
starch, in which the starch molecules swell to fo rm a n e t­
work th a t trap s w a te r molecules.
GENOISE: A lig h t cake, made using the foam ing mixing method,
containing flour, sugar, eggs, butter, vanilla, and /o r other
flavorings.
GERM:The p o rtio n o f the seed o f flo w e ring plants, such as
wheat, th a t sprouts to fo rm a new plant; the embryo o f the
new plant.
GHERKIN: A small pickled cucumber.
GIBLETS: Organs and o th er trim fro m poultry, including the
liver, heart, gizzard, and neck, used to fla vo r stocks and
soups.
GLACE: Reduced stock. Also, ice cream.
GLACE: L iterally, "glazed” or iced. Icing.
GLAZE: To give an item a shiny surface by brushing or o th e r­
wise coating it w ith sauce, aspic, icing, or another appareil.
For meat, to coat w ith sauce and then brown in an oven or
salamander.
GLUCOSE: A sim ple sugar found in honey, some fru its , and many
vegetables. It has about half the sweetness o f table sugar
and is the pre fe rre d source o f energy fo r the human body.
GLUTEN: A pro te in present in w heat flo u r th a t develops
through hydration and m ixing to fo rm elastic strands th a t
build structu re and aid in leavening.
GRAND SAUCE: Any o f several basic sauces used in the prepa­
ration o f many o th er sm all sauces. The grand sauces are
demi-glace, veloute, bechamel, hollan-daise, and tom ato.
Also called “m other" sauce.
or under a salamander (au gratin, gratin de). Also refers to
a fo rce m e a t in which some portion o f the dom inant meat is
sauteed and cooled before it is ground.
GRAVLAX: Raw salmon cured w ith salt, sugar, and fresh dill. A
dish o f Scandinavian origin, o fte n accompanied by mustard
and d ill sauce.
GRIDDLE: A heavy m etal cooking surface, which may be fitte d
w ith handles, b u ilt into a stove, or heated by its own gas or
ele ctric elem ent. Cooking is done d ire ctly on the griddle.
GRILL: To cook fo o ds by a radiant heat source placed below the
food. Also, the piece o f equipm ent on which grillin g is done;
may be fueled by gas, e le ctricity, charcoal, or wood.
GRILLARDIN: G rill ch e f/sta tio n . The position responsible fo r all
g rille d foods; may be combined w ith the rotisseur position.
GRILL PAN: A s k ille t w ith ridges, used on the stovetop to simu­
late grilling.
GRISSINI:Thin, crisp breadsticks.
GRISWOLD: A pot, sim ilar to a rondeau, made o f cast iron;
may have a single short handle rather than the usual loop
handles.
GUMBO: A Creole so up/stew thickened w ith file or okra, fla ­
vored w ith a va rie ty o f m eats and fishes and dark roux.
h
HARICOT: L iterally, “ bean." Haricots verts are green beans.
HASH: Chopped, cooked meat, usually w ith p otatoes and/or
o ther vegetables, seasoned, bound w ith a sauce, and sau­
teed. Also, to chop into small irregular pieces.
HAZARD ANALYSIS CRITICAL CONTROL POINT (HACCP):
A m on ito rin g system used to track foods fro m the tim e
th a t they are received un til they are served to consum­
ers, to ensure th a t the foods are free from contam ination.
Standards and controls are established fo r tim e and te m ­
perature, as w ell as safe handling practices.
HEIMLICH MANEUVER: F irst aid fo r choking, involving the ap­
plication o f sudden upward pressure on the upper abdomen
to fo rce a fo re ig n object fro m the windpipe.
HIGH-RATIO CAKE: A cake in which the b a tte r includes a high
percentage o f sugar in relation to oth er ingredients.
HOLLANDAISE: A classic emulsion sauce made w ith a vinegar
reduction, egg yolks, and m elted butter, flavored w ith
lemon juice. One o f the “grand" sauces.
HOLLOW-GROUND: A type o f knife blade made by fusing two
sheets o f m etal and beveling or flu tin g the edge.
HOMINY: Corn th a t has been m illed or tre a te d w ith a lye solu­
tio n to remove the bran and germ. Ground hominy is known
as grits.
GLOSSARY 1175
HOMOGENIZATION: A process used to prevent the m ilk fa t
fro m separating o u t o f m ilk products. The liquid is forced
through an u ltra fin e mesh at high pressure, which breaks
up fa t globules and disperses them evenly throughout the
liquid.
HORS D’OEUVRE: L ite ra lly,"o u tsid e the work." An appetizer.
HOTEL PAN: A rectangular m etal pan, in a number o f standard
sizes, w ith a lip th a t allows it to re st on a storage shelf or in
a steam table.
HYDROGENATION: The process in which hydrogen
atoms are added to an unsaturated fa t molecule, mak­
ing it p a rtia lly or com pletely saturated and solid a t room
tem perature.
k
KASHA: Buckwheat groats th a t have been hulled, crushed, and
roasted; usually prepared by boiling.
KNEAD: To work or m ix a dough by hand to soften it to working
consistency, or to stretch yeasted doughs to expand th e ir
gluten.
KOSHER: Prepared in accordance w ith Jewish die ta ry laws.
KOSHER SALT: Pure, refined salt, also known as coarse salt or
pickling salt. Used fo r pickling because it does not contain
magnesium carbonate and thus does not cloud brine solu­
tions. Also used to kosher m eats and poultry.

HYDROPONICS: A technique fo r growing vegetables in n u tri­

ent-enriched w a te r rather than in soil.
HYGIENE: Conditions and practices follow ed to maintain
health, including sa nitation and personal cleanliness.
1 LARD: Rendered pork fa t; used in pastry and fo r frying. Also,
INDUCTION BURNER: A typ e o f heating unit th a t relies on mag­
netic a ttra c tio n between the cooktop and m etals in the pot
to generate the heat th a t cooks fo o ds in the pan. Reaction
tim e is sig n ifica n tly
fa s te r than w ith tra d itio n a l burners.
INFECTION: Contam ination by a disease-causing agent such as
a bacterium .
INFUSION: Steeping an arom atic or o th e r item in liquid to ex­
tra c t its flavor. Also, the liquid resulting from th is process.
INSTANT-READ THERMOMETER: A th e rm o m e te r used to
measure the internal tem perature o f foods. The stem is
inserted in the food, producing an im m ediate tem perature
readout.
INTOXICATION: Poisoning; a sta te o f being ta in te d w ith toxins,
p a rticu la rly those produced by a m icroorganism th a t has
in fe cted food.
INVENTORY: An item ized lis t o f goods and equipm ent on hand,
to g e th e r w ith the estim ated w orth or cost.
INVERT SUGAR: A sugar th a t is a m ixture o f dextrose and fru c ­
tose, which w ill not easily crystallize. These sugars can oc­
cur naturally or be created by boiling sucrose w ith an acid.
1
LACTOSE: The simple sugar found in milk. This disaccharide is
the least sweet o f the natural sugars.
LAMINATE: To fo ld and ro ll a dough to g eth e r w ith a roll-in fa t to
create a lte rn a tin g layers o f fa t and dough; used to create
p u ff pastry, Danish, and croissants.
to in se rt sm all strip s o f fa tb ack in to naturally lean meats
before roasting or braising. The process is done using a
larding needle.
LARDON/LARDOON: A s trip o f fa t used fo r larding; may be sea­
soned. Also, bacon th a t has been diced, blanched, and fried.
LEAVENER: Any ingredient or process th a t produces gas and
causes the rising o f baked goods. Can be chemical (baking
powder), mechanical (folding in air in whipped egg whites),
or biological (yeast).
LECITHIN: An e m u lsifier found in eggs and soybeans.
LEGUME:The seeds o f certain pod plants, including beans and
peas, which are eaten fo r th e ir earthy fla vo rs and high nu­
tritio n a l value. Also, the French word fo r vegetable.
LI AISON: A m ixture o f egg yolks and cream used to thicken and
enrich sauces. Also loosely applied to any appareil used as
a thickener.
LIQUEUR: A s p irit fla vo re d w ith fru it, spices, nuts, herbs, and/
or seeds and usually sweetened. Also known as cordials,
liqueurs o fte n have a high alcohol content, a viscous body,
and a s lig h tly s ticky feel.
LITTLENECK: Small hard-shell clams, o fte n eaten raw on the
half shell; sm aller than a cherrystone clam (less than 2 in/5

)
JARDINIERE: A m ixture o f vegetables.
cm in diameter).

LOW-FAT MILK: M ilk containing less than 2 percent fa t.

JULIENNE: Vegetables, potatoes, or o ther item s cut into thin LOX: Cold-smoked salt-cured salmon.
strips; Vs in by Vs in by 1 to 2 in /3 mm by 3 mm by 3 to 5 cm
LOZENGE CUT: A knife cut in which fo o ds are cut into small
is standard. Fine julienne is V i 6 in by V i 6 in by 1 to 2 in/1.5
diamond shapes V>in by V iin by Vs in/1 cm by 1 cm by 3
mm by 1.5 mm by 3 to 5 cm.
mm thick.
JUS: Literally, “juice.” Refers to fr u it and vegetable juices as well
LYONNAISE: Food cooked in the style o f Lyons; Lyonnaise po­
as juices fro m meats. Jus de viande is m eat gravy. M eat
ta to e s are sauteed w ith onions and butter. Also refers to
served au jus is served w ith its own juice or a jus lie.
a sauce made w ith onions and usually butter, w hite wine,
JUS LIE: M eat juice thickened lig h tly w ith a rro w ro ot or vinegar, and demi-glace.
cornstarch.

GLOSSARY

MACAROON: Small cookie o f nut paste (typica lly almond or
coconut), sugar, and egg white.
MADEIRA: A Portuguese fo rtifie d wine, tre a te d w ith heat as it
ages to give it a d istin ctive fla v o r and brownish color.
MAILLARD REACTION: A complex browning reaction th a t re­
sults in the p a rticu la r fla vo r and color o f fo o ds th a t do not
contain much sugar, including roasted meats. The reaction,
which involves carbohydrates and amino acids, is named
a fte r the French scie n tist who f ir s t discovered it. There are
low -tem perature and high-tem perature M aillard reactions;
the high-tem perature reaction s ta rts a t 310°F/154°C.
MAITRE D’HOTEL: Dining room manager or food and beverage
manager, in fo rm a lly called maTtre d! This position oversees
the dining room a n d /o r the fro n t- of-house s ta ff. Also, a
compound b u tte r fla vo re d w ith chopped parsley and lemon
juice.
MANDOLINE: A slicing device o f pla stic or stainless steel w ith
carbon steel blades. M ost models have blades th a t may be
adjusted to cut item s into various shapes and thicknesses.
MARBLING: The intram uscular fa t found in m eat th a t makes it
te n de r and juicy.
MARINADE: An appareil used before cooking to fla v o r and
m oisten foods; may be liquid or dry. Liquid marinades are
usually based on an acidic ingredient such as wine or vin­
egar; dry marinades are usually salt based.
MARK ON A GRILL: To tu rn a fo o d (w ith o u t flip p in g it over) 90
degrees a fte r it has been on the g rill fo r several seconds to
create th e cross-hatching associated w ith grille d foods.
MARZIPAN: A paste o f ground almonds, sugar, and som etim es
egg w hites used to fill, cover, and decorate pastries.
MATELOTE: A French fish stew tra d itio n a lly made w ith eel
or oth er fre sh w a te r fish and fla vo re d w ith wine and
arom atics.
MATIGNON: An edible m irepoix, o fte n used in poeleed dishes
and usually served w ith the finished dish. Typically, m ati-
gnon includes tw o parts carrot, one pa rt celery, one part
leek, one p a rt onion, one p a rt mushroom (optional), and one
p a rt ham or bacon.
MAYONNAISE: A cold emulsion o f oil, egg yolks, vinegar, mus­
tard, and seasonings, used as a dressing, a spread, or a
base fo r a d ditional sauces.
MECHANICAL LEAVENER: A ir incorporated into a b a tte r or
dough to act as a rising agent.
MEDALLION: A small, round scallop o f meat.
MERINGUE: Egg w hites beaten w ith sugar until they stiffe n .
Types include regular or common, Italian, and Swiss.
MESOPHILIC: A te rm used to describe bacteria th a t th rive in
tem peratures between 60° and 1 00°F /16° and 38°C.
METABOLISM: The sum o f chemical processes in living cells by
which energy is provided and new m aterial is assim ilated.
MEUNIERE, A LA: French fo r "in the style o f the m ille r’s wife."
Refers to a cooking technique in which the item, generally
fish, is dusted w ith flour, sauteed, and served w ith a sauce
o f beurre n oisette, lemon juice, and parsley.
MICROWAVE OVEN: A cooking device in which electrom agnetic
waves (sim ilar to radio waves) generated by a device called
a m agnetron penetrate fo o d and cause the w a te r m ol­
ecules in it to oscillate. This rapid molecular m otion gener­
ates heat th a t cooks the food.
MIE: The s o ft p a rt o f bread (not the crust); mie de pain is fresh
w h ite bread crumbs.
MILL: To separate grain in to germ /husk, bran, and endosperm,
and grind it into flo u r or meal.
MILLET: A small, round, glutenless grain. May be boiled or
ground into flour.
MINCE: To chop into very sm all pieces.
MINERAL: An inorganic elem ent th a t is an essential component
o f the diet. Provides no energy and is th e re fo re referred to
as a noncaloric n utrient. The body cannot produce minerals;
they m ust be obtained fro m the diet.
MINESTRONE: A hearty vegetable soup; typ ica lly includes
dried beans and pasta.
MINUTE, ALA: L ite ra lly ,“ at the minute." A restaurant produc­
tio n approach in which a dish is not prepared un til an order
arrives in the kitchen.
MIREPOIX: A com bination o f chopped arom atic vegetables
(usually tw o parts onion, one pa rt carrot, and one p a rt cel­
ery) used to fla v o r stocks, soups, braises, and stews.
MISE EN PLACE: L iterally, “p u t in place."The preparation and
assembly o f ingredients, pans, utensils, and plates or serv­
ing pieces needed fo r a p a rticu la r dish or service period.
MODE, A LA: Lite ra lly, "in the style o f" (often follow ed by de
plus a d escriptive phrase). Boeuf a la mode is braised beef;
pie a la mode is served w ith ice cream.
MOLASSES: The dark brown, sweet syrup th a t is a by-product
o f sugarcane and sugar beet refining. Molasses is available
as lig h t (the least cooked but sweetest), dark, and black­
strap (the m ost cooked and m ost b itte r).
MOLLUSK: Any o f a number o f invertebrate animals w ith so ft,
unsegmented bodies usually enclosed in a hard shell.
M ollusks include gastropods (univalves), bivalves, and
cephalopods; examples include clams, oysters, snails, o cto ­
pus, and squid.
MONOSODIUM GLUTAMATE (MSG): A fla vo r enhancer derived
fro m glutam ic acid, w ith o u t a d is tin c t fla vo r o f its own;
used prim a rily in Chinese cuisine and processed foods. May
cause allergic reactions in some people.
MONOUNSATURATED FAT: A fa t w ith one available bonding site
not fille d w ith a hydrogen atom. Helpful in lowering the LDL
cholesterol level (the bad cholesterol). Food sources include
avocados, olives, and nuts.
MONTE AU BEURRE: Literally, “lifte d w ith butter." Refers to
a technique used to fin ish sauces, thicken them slightly,
and give them a glossy appearance by whisking or sw irling
whole b u tte r into the sauce un til m elted.
G LO S S A R Y 1177
MOUSSE: A foam made w ith beaten egg w hites and /o r whipped
cream folded into a fla vo re d base appareil. May be sweet
or savory.
MOUSSELINE: A mousse. Also, a sauce made by fo lding
whipped cream in to hollandaise. Also, a very lig h t fo rc e ­
meat based on w hite m eat or seafood lightened w ith cream
and eggs.
n OMELET: Beaten egg, cooked in b u tte r in a specialized pan or
NAPOLEON: A pastry tra d itio n a lly made o f layered p u ff pas­
tr y rectangles fille d w ith pastry cream and glazed w ith
fondant.
NAPPE: To coat w ith sauce. Also, thickened. Also, the consis­
tency o f a sauce th a t w ill coat the back o f a spoon.
NATURE: French fo r "ungarnished" or “ plain.” Pommes natures
are boiled potatoes.
NAVARIN: A French stew, tra d itio n a lly o f lamb, w ith potatoes,
turnips, onions, and possibly o ther vegetables.
NEW POTATO: Any small young p o tato less than I V 2 in /4 cm
in diameter, usually prepared by boiling or steaming, and
o fte n eaten w ith its skin. The new p o ta to has not ye t con­
verted its sugar into starch, creating a waxy p o tato w ith a
thin skin.
NOISETTE: Hazelnut or hazelnut colored. Also, a small portion
o f meat cut from the rib. Pommes no ise tte are tourneed
p otatoes browned in butter. Beurre no ise tte is browned
butter.
NONBONY FISH: Fish whose skeletons are made o f cartilage
rather than hard bone (e.g., shark, skate). Also called c a rti­
laginous fish.
NOUVELLE CUISINE: Literally, “new cooking." A culinary move­
m ent emphasizing freshness and lightness o f ingredients,
natural fla vo rs sim ply prepared, and innovative com bina­
tio n s and presentation.
NUTRIENT: A basic com ponent o f fo o d used by the body fo r
grow th, repair, restoration, and energy. Includes carbohy­
drates, fa ts, proteins, water, vitam ins, and minerals.
NUTRITION: The process by which an organism takes in and
uses food.
o roa st and combining them w ith a roux or o ther starch and
OBLIQUE CUT/ROLL CUT: A knife cut used prim a rily fo r long,
cylindrical vegetables such as carrots, in which the item is
cut on a diagonal, rolled 180 degrees, then cut on the same
diagonal to produce a piece w ith tw o angled edges.
OFFAL: Edible entrails and extre m itie s; v a rie ty meats, including
organs (brains, heart, kidneys, lungs, sweetbreads, tripe ,
tongue), head meat, ta il, and fe e t.
OFFSET SPATULA: A hand to o l w ith a wide, bent blade set in a
sh o rt handle, used to tu rn or lif t foods fro m grills, broilers,
or griddles.
OIGNON BRULE: L iterally, “b urnt onion." A peeled, halved onion
seared on a fla tto p or in a skillet, used to enhance the color
o f stock and consomme.
GLOSSARY
OIGNON PIQUE: L ite ra lly,"p ricked onionl’ A whole peeled onion
to which a bay le a f is attached, using a clove as a tack. Used
to fla vo r bechamel sauce and some soups.
OMEGA-3 FATTY ACIDS: Polyunsaturated fa tty acids th a t may
reduce the risk o f heart disease and tu m o r growth, stim u ­
late the immune system, and lower blood pressure; they
occur in fa tty fish, dark green leafy vegetables, and certain
nuts and oils.
skillet, then rolled or folded into an oval. Omelets may be
fille d w ith a va rie ty o f ingredients before or a fte r rolling.
ORGANIC LEAVENER: Yeast. A living organism acting to pro­
duce carbon dioxide gas, which w ill cause a b a tte r or dough
to rise through the fe rm e n tatio n process.
ORGAN MEAT: M eat fro m an organ, rather than the muscle
tissue o f an animal. Includes brains, heart, kidneys, lungs,
sweetbreads, trip e , and tongue.
OVEN SPRING: The rapid in itia l rise o f yeast doughs when
placed in a hot oven. Heat accelerates the grow th o f the
yeast, which produces more carbon dioxide gas, and also
causes th is gas to expand.
PAELLA: A dish o f rice cooked w ith onion, tom ato, garlic, veg­
etables, and various meats, fish, or shellfish. A paella pan is
a specialized pan; it is wide and shallow and usually has two
loop handles.
PAILLARD: A scallop o f meat pounded u n til thin; usually grilled
or sauteed.
PALETTE KNIFE: A small, long, narrow m etal spatula w ith a
rounded tip . May be tapered or straight, o ffs e t or fla t.
PAN BROILING: A cooking m ethod sim ilar to dry sauteing th a t
sim ulates b roiling by cooking an item in a hot pan w ith little
or no fa t.
PAN DRESSED: Portion-size whole fish w ith the guts, gills,
and scales removed. The fin s and ta il may or may not be
trim m ed or removed.
PAN FRY: To cook in fa t in a skillet; generally involves more fa t
than sauteing or s tir-fry in g but less than deep frying.
PAN GRAVY: A sauce made by deglazing pan drippings from a
additional stock.
PAN STEAM: To cook foods in a very small amount o f liquid in a
covered pan over dire ct heat.
PAPILLOTE, EN: A m oist-h e a t cooking method sim ilar to
steaming, in which item s are enclosed in parchm ent and
cooked in the oven.
PARCHMENT: H e a t-re sista n t paper used to line baking pans,
enclose item s to cook en papillote, and cover item s during
shallow poaching.
PARCOOK: To p a rtia lly cook an item before sto rin g or finishing.
PARISIENNE SCOOP: A small to o l used fo r scooping balls out
o f vegetables or fru its and fo r po rtio n in g tr u ffle ganache
among oth er preparations. Also called a melon bailer.
PAR STOCK: The amount o f fo o d and o th er supplies necessary
to cover operating needs between deliveries.
PASTA: Literally, "dough” or"paste." Noodles made fro m a dough
o f flo u r (ofte n semolina) and w a te r or eggs, kneaded,
rolled, and cut or extruded, then cooked by boiling.
PASTEURIZATION: A process in which m ilk products are heated
to k ill m icroorganism s th a t could contam inate the milk.
PASTRY BAG: A bag, usually made o f plastic, canvas, or nylon,
th a t can be fitte d w ith plain or decorative tip s and used to
pipe out icings and pureed foods.
PATE: Noodles or pasta. Also, dough, paste, or b a tte r (as in pate
brisee).
PATE: A rich forcem eat o f meat, game, poultry, seafood, and/or
vegetables, baked in pa stry or in a mold or dish and served
hot or cold.
PATE A CHOUX: Cream p u ff batter, made by boiling w a te r or
milk, butter, and flour, then beating in whole eggs. When
baked, pate a choux p u ffs to fo rm a hollowed pastry shell
th a t can be fille d .
PATE BRISEE: A sh o rt p a stry used to create crusts fo r pie
crusts, ta rts , and quiches.
PATE DE CAMPAGNE: C ountry-style pate w ith a coarse texture,
made o f pork b u tt, chicken livers, garlic, onion, and parsley,
flavored w ith brandy.
PATE EN CROOt E: A pate baked in a pastry crust.
PATE FEUILLETEE: P u ff pastry.
PATE SUCREE: A sweet sh o rt pa stry used fo r pies, ta rts, and
fille d cookies.
PATFIOGEN: A disease-causing m icroorganism.
PATISSIER: Pastry ch e f/sta tio n . This position is responsible fo r
baked item s, pastries, and desserts. O ften a separate area
o f the kitchen.
PAUPIETTE: A fille t or scallop o f fish or meat, rolled up around
a s tu ffin g and poached or braised.
PAYSANNE/FERMIER CUT: A knife cut in which the item is cut
into fla t, square pieces V 2 in by V 2 in by Vs in /
1 cm by 1 cm by 3 mm.
PEEL: A paddle used to tra n s fe r shaped doughs to a hearth or
deck oven. Also, to remove the skin fro m a fo o d item.
PESTO: A th ic k pureed m ixture o f an herb, tra d itio n a lly basil
and oil. Used as a sauce fo r pasta and o ther foods and as
a garnish fo r soup. Pesto may also contain grated cheese,
nuts or seeds, and o th e r seasonings.
PETIT FOUR: A fancy bite-size layered cake covered in fondant.
Also, more generally can re fe r to bite-size pastries and
cookies.
PH SCALE: A scale w ith values fro m 0 to 14 representing de­
gree o f acidity. A m easurem ent o f 7 is neutral, 0 is m ost
acidic and 14 is m ost alkaline. Chemically, pH measures the
concentration o f hydrogen ions.
PHYLLO/FILO DOUGH: Pastry made w ith very th in sheets o f a
flo u r-a n d -w a te r dough layered w ith b u tte r and/or bread or
cake crumbs; sim ilar to strudel.
PHYSICAL LEAVENER: The steam or air trapped in a dough th a t
expands and causes the item to rise.
PHYTOCHEMICALS: N aturally occurring compounds in
plant fo o ds th a t have a ntioxidant and disease-fighting
properties.
PICKLING SPICE: A m ixture o f herbs and spices used to season
pickles. O ften includes dill weed and/or seed, coriander seed,
cinnamon stick, peppercorns, and bay leaves, among others.
PILAF: A technique fo r cooking grains in which the grain is sau­
teed b rie fly in butter, then sim mered in stock or w ater w ith
seasonings u n til the liquid is absorbed. Also called pilau,
pilaw, pullao, pilav.
PINCE: Refers to an item , usually a to m a to product, caramel­
ized by sauteing.
PLUCHES: Whole herb leaves connected to a small b it o f stem;
o fte n used as a garnish. Also called sprigs.
POACH: To cook g ently in sim m ering liquid a t 160° to
1 8 5 °F /7 1 °to 85°C.
POELE: Refers to fo o d cooked in its own juices (usually w ith the
addition o f a m atignon, o th er arom atics, and m elted b u t­
te r) in a covered pot, usually in the oven. Also called b u tte r
roasting.
POISSONIER: Fish ch e f/sta tio n . The position responsible fo r
fish item s and th e ir sauces; may be combined w ith the
saucier position.
POLENTA: Cornmeal mush cooked in sim m ering liquid u n til the
grains so fte n and the liquid is absorbed. Can be eaten hot
or cold, firm or so ft.
POLYUNSATURATED FAT: A fa t molecule w ith more than one
available bonding site not fille d w ith a hydrogen atom.
Food sources include corn, cottonseed, safflow er, soy, and
sunflow er oils.
PORT: A fo rtifie d dessert wine. Vintage p o rt is high-quality
unblended wine aged in the b o ttle fo r a t least tw elve years.
Ruby p o rt may be blended, and is aged in wood fo r a short
tim e. W hite p o rt is made w ith w hite grapes.
POT-AU-FEU: A classic French boiled dinner; typ ica lly includes
p o u ltry and beef, along w ith various ro o t vegetables. The
b ro th is o fte n served as a fir s t course, follow ed by the
m eats and vegetables.
PRAWN: A crustacean th a t closely resembles shrimp; often
used as a general te rm fo r large shrimp.
PRESENTATION SIDE: The side o f a piece o f meat, poultry, or
fish th a t w ill be served facing up.
PRESSURE STEAMER: A machine th a t cooks food using steam
produced by heating w a te r under pressure in a sealed
com partm ent, which allows it to reach tem peratures higher
than boiling (212°F/100°C). The fo o d is placed in a cham­
ber th a t is then sealed and cannot be opened u n til the pres­
sure has been released and the steam properly vented.
PRIMAL CUTS: The large portions produced by the in itia l cu t­
tin g o f an animal carcass. Cuts are determ ined standards
th a t may vary by country and animal. Primal cuts are fu r­
th e r broken down into smaller, more manageable cuts.
G LO S S A R Y 1179
 PRINTANIERE: A garnish o f spring vegetables.
PRIX FIXE: Literally, “fixe d price.” A type o f menu in which a
com plete meal is o ffe re d fo r a preset price. The menu may
o ffe r several choices fo r each course.
PROOF: To allow yeast dough to rise. A p ro o f box is a sealed
cabinet th a t allows co n tro l over both tem perature and
hum idity.
PROTEIN: One o f the basic n u trie n ts needed by the body to
maintain life, supply energy, build and repair tissues, form
enzymes and hormones, and pe rfo rm o ther essential fu n c­
tions. Protein can be obtained fro m animal and vegetable
sources.
PROVENQAL(E)/A LA PROVENCALE: Dishes prepared in the
style o f Provence, France, o fte n w ith garlic, tom atoes, and
olive oil. May also contain anchovies, eggplant, mushrooms,
olives, and onions.
PULSE: The edible seed o f a leguminous plant, such as a bean,
lentil, or pea. O ften refe rre d to sim ply as legume.
PUREE: To process fo o d by mashing, straining, or chopping it
very fin e ly in order to make it a sm ooth paste. Also, a prod­
uct produced using th is technique.
q
QUAHOG/QUAHAUG: A hard-shell clam larger than 3 in / 8 cm in
diameter, usually used fo r chowder or fritte rs .
QUATRE EPICES: Literally, "fo u r spices." A fin e ly ground spice
m ixture containing black peppercorns, nutmeg, cinnamon,
cloves, and som etim es ginger. Used to fla vo r soups, stews,
and vegetables.
QUENELLE: A lig h t poached dumpling based on a forcem eat
(usually chicken, veal, seafood, or game) bound w ith eggs,
and shaped in an oval by using tw o spoons.
QUICK BREAD: Bread made w ith chemical leaveners, which
w ork more quickly than yeast because they require no
kneading or fe rm e n tatio n . Also called b a tte r bread.
r ROULADE: A slice o f meat or fish rolled around a stu ffin g . Also,
RAFT: A m ixture o f ingredients used to c la rify consomme.
Refers to the fa c t th a t the ingredients rise to the surface
and fo rm a flo a tin g mass.
RAGOUT: A stew o f meat and/or vegetables.
RAMEKIN/RAMEQUIN: A small ovenproof dish, usually ceramic.
REACH-IN REFRIGERATOR: A re frig e ra tio n unit or se t o f units
w ith pass-through doors. O ften used in the pantry area fo r
storage o f salads, cold hors d’oeuvre, and oth er freq u e n tly
used items.
REDUCE: To decrease the volume o f a liquid by sim m ering or
boiling. Used to provide a th icke r consistency and /o r con­
centrated flavors.
REDUCTION: The product th a t results when a liquid is reduced.
REFRESH: To plunge an item into, or run it under, cold w ater
a fte r blanching to prevent fu rth e r cooking. Also known as
shock.
1180 G LO S S A R Y
REMOUILLAGE: Literally, "rewetting.'’ A stock made from bones
th a t have already been used fo r stock. Weaker than a firs t-
q u a lity stock, it is o fte n reduced to make glaze.
RENDER: To m elt fa t and c la rify the drippings fo r use in saute­
ing or pan frying.
REST: To allow fo o d to s it undisturbed a fte r roasting and be­
fo re carving; th is allows the juices to seep back into the
m eat fib e rs.
RICH DOUGH: A yeast dough th a t contains fa ts such as b u t­
te r and /o r egg yolks. May also contain sweeteners. Rich
doughs tend to produce more tender breads w ith a darker
crust than lean doughs.
RILLETTE: Potted meat; m eat cooked slowly in seasoned fat,
then shredded or pounded into a paste w ith some o f the
fa t. The m ixture is packed in ramekins and covered w ith a
thin layer o f fa t. O ften used as a spread.
RING TOP: A fla tto p w ith removable plates th a t can be opened
to varying degrees to expose the cooking food to more or
less heat.
RISOTTO: Rice sauteed b rie fly in b u tte r w ith onions and pos­
sibly o th er arom atics, then combined w ith stock, which is
added in several additions and stirre d constantly to pro­
duce a creamy te xtu re w ith grains th a t are s till al dente.
ROAST: To cook by dry heat in an oven or on a s p it over a fire.
ROE: Fish or shellfish eggs.
ROLL-IN: B u tte r or a butter-based m ixture placed between lay­
ers o f pastry dough, then rolled and folded repeatedly to
fo rm numerous layers. When the dough is baked, the layers
remain discrete, producing a very flaky, rich pastry.
RONDEAU: A shallow, wide, straig h t-sid e d p o t w ith tw o loop
handles; o fte n used fo r braising.
RONDELLE: A knife cut used on cylindrical vegetables or items
trim m ed into cylinders before cutting; produces fla t round
or oval pieces.
ROTISSEUR: Roast ch e f/sta tio n . The position is responsible fo r
all roasted foods and related sauces.
a fille d and rolled sponge cake.
ROUND: A cut o f be e f fro m the hind quarter th a t includes the
to p and b o tto m round, eye, and to p sirloin. It is lean and
usually braised or roasted. Also, in baking, to shape pieces
o f yeast dough into balls; th is process stretches and relax­
es the gluten and ensures even rising and a sm ooth crust.
ROUND FISH: A cla ssification o f fish based on skeletal type,
characterized by a rounded body and eyes on opposite
sides o f the head. Round fish are usually cut by the up and
over method.
ROUX: An appareil containing equal parts o f flo u r and fa t
(usually butter), used to thicken liquids. Roux is cooked to
varying degrees (white, blond, brown, or dark), depending
on its intended use. The darker the roux, the less thickening
power it has but the fu lle r the taste.
ROYALE: A consomme garnish made o f unsweetened cooked
custard cut in to decorative shapes.
RUB: A com bination o f spices and herbs applied to foods as a
marinade or fla v o rfu l crust. Dry rubs are generally based
upon spices; w e t rubs (som etim es known as mops) may
include m oist ingredients such as fresh herbs, vegetables,
and fr u it juice or broth, if necessary, to make a pasty
consistency. Rubs are absorbed into the m eat to create a
g re a te r depth o f flavor.
s SCALE: To measure ingredients by weighing, or to divide dough
5ABAYON: A custard o f sweetened egg yolks flavored w ith
Marsala or o th er wine or liqueur, beaten in a double boiler
until fro th y . In Italian, zabaglione.
SACHET D'EPICES: L iterally, "bag o f spices.” A rom atic ingre­
dients encased in cheesecloth, used to fla vo r stocks and
oth er liquids. A standard sachet contains parsley stems,
cracked peppercorns, dried thyme, and a bay leaf.
SALT COD: Cod th a t has been salted and dried to preserve it.
SALTPETER: Potassium n itra te . A com ponent o f curing salt,
used to preserve meat. It gives certain cured meats th e ir
characteristic pink color.
SANITATION: The maintenance o f a clean fo o d preparation
environm ent by healthy fo o d w orkers in order to prevent
food-borne illnesses and fo o d contam ination.
SANITIZE: To k ill pathogenic organisms by chemicals and/or
m oist heat.
SASHIMI: Sliced raw fish, served w ith such condim ents as a
julienne o f daikon radish, pickled ginger, wasabi, and soy
sauce.
SATURATED FAT: A fa t molecule whose available bonding sites
are e n tire ly fille d w ith hydrogen atoms. These tend to be
solid a t room tem perature and are p rim arily o f animal o ri­
gin, including butter, meat, cheese, and eggs; coconut oil,
palm oil, and cocoa b u tte r are vegetable sources.
SAUCE: A liquid accompanim ent to food, used to enhance the
fla v o r o f the food.
SAUCE VIN BLANC: L iterally, "w hite wine sauce." A sauce made
by combining a reduced poaching liquid (typica lly contain­
ing wine) w ith prepared hollandaise, veloute, or diced
butter.
SAUCIER: Saute ch e f/sta tio n . The position responsible fo r all
sauteed item s and th e ir sauces.
SAUSAGE: A fo rce m e a t m ixture shaped into p a ttie s or links,
ty p ic a lly highly seasoned; originally made to preserve the
m eat and use edible trim . Made from ground meat, fa t, and
seasonings. Sausage varies in size, shape, curing tim e, and
typ e o f casing.
SAUTE: To cook quickly in a small amount o f fa t in a pan on the
stovetop.
SAUTEUSE: A shallow s k ille t w ith sloping sides and a single
long handle. Used fo r sauteing. Referred to generically as
a saute pan.
SAUTOIR: A shallow s k ille t w ith stra ig h t sides and a single long
handle. Used fo r sauteing. Referred to generically as a
saute pan.
SAVORY: N ot sweet. Also, the name o f a course served a fte r
d essert and before p o rt in tra d itio n a l B ritish meals. Also, a
fa m ily o f herbs (including summer and w in te r savory) th a t
ta ste like a cross between thym e and mint.
SCALD: To heat a liquid, usually m ilk or cream, to ju s t below
the boiling point. May also r e fe r to b la n ch in gfru its and
vegetables.
or b a tte r into p o rtio n s by weight. Also, to remove the
scales fro m fish.
SCALER: A to o l used to scrape scales from fish. Used by scrap­
ing against the directio n in which scales lie fla t, working
fro m ta il to head.
SCALLOP: A bivalve whose adductor muscle (the muscle th a t
keeps its shells closed) and roe are eaten. Also, a small
boneless piece o f m eat or fish o f uniform thickness. Also,
a side dish in which an item is layered w ith cream or sauce
and topped w ith bread crumbs p rior to baking.
SCORE: To cut the surface o f an item at regular intervals to
allow it to cook evenly, allow excess fa t to drain, help the
fo o d absorb marinades, or fo r decorative purposes.
SCRAPPLE: A boiled m ixture o f pork trim m ings, buckwheat,
and cornm eal compressed into a loaf, chilled, and sliced. It
is o fte n frie d a fte r chilling and served fo r breakfast.
SEAR: To brown the surface o f food in fa t over high heat before
fin ish in g by another m ethod (e.g., braising or roasting) in
order to add flavor.
SEA SALT: S alt produced by evaporating seawater. Available
refined or unrefined, crystallized or ground. Also known as
sel gris (French fo r “gray sa lt”).
SEASONING: Adding an ingredient to give foods a particular
flavor, using salt, pepper, herbs, spices, and/or condiments.
Also, the process by which a p ro te ctive coating is b u ilt up
on the in te rio r o f a pan.
SEMOLINA: The hard durum wheat endosperm used fo r gnoc-
chi, bread, couscous, and pasta. Semolina has a high gluten
content.
SHALLOW POACH: To cook an item gently in a shallow pan,
barely covered w ith sim m ering liquid. The liquid is often
reduced and used as the base o f a sauce.
SHEET PAN: A fla t baking pan, o fte n w ith a rolled lip, used to
cook foods in the oven.
SHELF LIFE: The amount o f tim e in storage th a t a product can
m aintain its quality.
SHELLFISH: Various typ e s o f marine life consumed as food, in­
cluding m ollusks such as univalves, bivalves, cephalopods,
and crustaceans.
SHERRY: A fo rtifie d Spanish wine; varies in color and
sweetness.
SHIRRED EGG: An egg cooked w ith b u tte r (and often cream) in
a ramekin un til the w hites are set.
SIEVE: A container made o f a p e rfo ra te d m aterial such as wire
mesh, used to drain or puree foods.
GLOSSARY ll8 l
 SILVERSKIN: The tough connective tissue th a t surrounds cer­
tain muscles. This protein does not dissolve when cooked
and m ust be removed p rior to cooking.
SIMMER:To m aintain the tem perature o f a liquid ju s t be­
low boiling. Also, to cook immersed in liquid at 185° to
2 0 0 °F /8 5 °to 9 3 °C .
SIMPLE CARBOHYDRATE: Any o f a number o f small carbohy­
drate molecules (mono- and disaccharides) including glu­
cose, fructose, lactose, m altose, and sucrose.
SIMPLE SYRUP: A m ixture o f w a te r and sugar (with additional
flavorings or arom atics as desired), heated u n til the sugar
dissolves. Used to m oisten cakes and to poach fru its.
SINGLE-STAGE TECHNIQUE: Cooking involving only one cook­
ing method (e.g., boiling or sauteing), as opposed to more
than one method, as in braising.
SKIM: To remove im p uritie s during cooking fro m the surface o f
a liquid such as stock or soup.
SKIM MILK: M ilk from which all but 0.5 percent o f the m ilk fa t
has been removed.
SLURRY: A starch, such as arrow root, cornstarch, or p otato
starch, dispersed in cold liquid to prevent it fro m form ing
lumps when added to hot liquid as a thickener.
SMALL SAUCE: A sauce th a t is a derivative o f any o f the
“grand" sauces.
SMOKE POINT: The tem perature at which a fa t begins to break
down and smoke when heated.
SMOKER: An enclosed area in which fo o ds are held on racks or
hooks and allowed to remain in a smoke bath at an appro­
priate tem perature.
SMOKE ROASTING: A m ethod o f roasting foods in which item s
are placed on a rack in a pan containing wood chips th a t
smolder, e m ittin g smoke, when the pan is placed on the
stovetop or in the oven.
SMOKING: Any o f several m ethods fo r preserving and fla v o r­
ing foods by exposing them to smoke. M ethods include
cold smoking (in which smoked item s are not fu lly cooked),
hot smoking (in which the item s are cooked), and smoke
roasting.
SMOTHER: To cook in a lidded pan w ith little liquid over low
heat. The main item is o fte n com pletely covered by another
food item or sauce while it cooks.
SODIUM: An alkaline m etal elem ent necessary in small q uanti­
tie s fo r human n u tritio n ; one o f the com ponents o f most
salts used in cooking.
SOMMELIER: Wine stew ard or w aiter. Helps diners select wine
and serves it. Responsible fo r the restaurant's wine cellar.
SORBET: A frozen dessert made w ith fr u it juice or another
base, a sweetener (usually sugar), and beaten egg whites,
which prevent the fo rm a tio n o f large ice crystals.
SOUFFLE: Literally, "puffed.” A preparation made w ith a sauce
base (usually bechamel fo r savory souffles, pastry cream
fo r sweet ones), whipped egg w hites, and flavorings. The
egg w hites cause the so u ffle to p u ff during cooking.
1182 G LO S S A R Y
SOURDOUGH: A yeasted bread dough leavened using a non-
com m ercially produced fe rm ented starter. Also refers to
a naturally leavened bread th a t contains no commercial
yeast.
SOUS CHEF: Literally, "under chef." The chef who is second in
command in a kitchen; usually responsible fo r scheduling,
fillin g in fo r the executive chef, and assisting the chefs de
partie as necessary.
SPATZLE: A s o ft noodle or small dum pling made by dropping
b its o f a prepared b a tte r into sim m ering liquid.
SPIDER: A long-handled skim m er used to remove item s from
hot liquid or fa t and to skim the surface o f liquids.
SPIT-ROAST: To roa st an item on a large skewer or sp it over, or
in fro n t of, an open flam e or o ther radiant heat source.
SPONGE: A th ick yeast batter, allowed to fe rm e n t and develop
a lig h t consistency and then combined w ith other ingredi­
ents to fo rm a yeast dough.
SPONGE CAKE: A sw e e tfoa m e d cake leavened w ith beaten egg
foam . Also called genoise.
SPRINGFORM PAN: A round straight-sided pan whose sides
are form ed by a hoop th a t can be unclamped and detached
fro m its base. P rim arily used fo r cheesecakes and mousse
cakes.
STABILIZER: An ingredient (usually a protein or plant product;
e.g., egg yolks, cream, or m ustard) added to an emulsion
to prevent it fro m separating. Also, an ingredient such as
gelatin or gum, used in various desserts (e.g., Bavarian
creams) to prevent them from separating.
STANDARD BREADING PROCEDURE: The assembly-line proce­
dure in which item s are dredged in flour, dipped in beaten
egg, then coated w ith crumbs before being pan frie d or
deep fried .
STAPHYLOCOCCUS AUREUS: A fa cu lta tive bacteria th a t can
cause food-borne illness. It is p a rticu la rly dangerous be­
cause it produces toxins th a t cannot be destroyed by heat.
Staph in to xica tio n is m ost o fte n caused by tra n sfe r o f the
bacteria from in fe cted fo o d handlers.
STEAK: A portion-size (or larger) cut o f meat, poultry, or fish
made by c u ttin g across the grain o f a muscle or a muscle
group. May be boneless or bone in.
STEAM: To cook item s in a vapor bath created by boiling water
or other liquids.
STEAMER: A set o f stacked pots w ith p e rfo ra tion s in the b o t­
tom o f each pot. They f i t over a larger po t fille d w ith boil­
ing or sim m ering water. Also, a perfo ra te d insert made of
m etal or bamboo, used in a pot to steam foods.
STEAM-JACKETED KETTLE: A ke ttle w ith double-layered walls
w ithin which steam circulates to provide even heat fo r
cooking stocks, soups, and sauces. These ke ttle s may be
insulated, spigoted, a nd/or tiltin g . The la tte r are also called
trunnion kettles.
STEEL: A to o l used to hone knife blades. It is usually made o f
steel but may be ceramic, glass, or diam ond-im pregnated
metal.
STEEP: To allow an ingredient to s it in warm or hot liquid to its tem perature. May also re fe r to the proper method fo r
e x tra c t fla vo r or im purities, or to so fte n the item. m elting chocolate.

STEWING: A cooking m ethod nearly identical to braising but TEMPURA: Seafood and/or vegetables coated w ith a light b a t­
generally involving sm aller pieces o f meat and hence a te r and deep fried , usually accompanied by a sauce.
sh o rte r cooking tim e. Stewed item s also may be blanched
TENDERLOIN: A boneless cut o f meat, usually beef or pork,
rather than seared, to give the finished product a pale from the loin; usually the m ost tender and expensive cut.
color.
TERRINE: A lo a f o f fo rce m e a t sim ilar to a pate, but cooked in a
STIR-FRYING: A cooking m ethod sim ilar to sauteing, in which
covered mold in a bain-marie. Also, the mold used to cook
item s are cooked over very high heat, using little fa t and such item s, usually an oval shape, made o f ceramic.
kept moving constantly. Usually done in a wok.
THERMOPHILIC: Heat-loving. Used to describe bacteria
STOCK: A fla v o rfu l liquid prepared by sim m ering meat bones, th a t th rive w ith in the tem perature range from 1 1 0 ° to
p o u ltry bones, seafood bones, a nd/or vegetables in w ater 171°F/4B° to 77°C.
w ith arom atics u n til th e ir fla vo r is extracted. Used as a
THICKENER: An in gredient used to give additional body to liq­
base fo r soups, sauces, and o ther preparations.
uids. A rrow ro o t, cornstarch, gelatin, roux, and beurre manie
STOCKPOT: A large, straig h t-sid e d pot, ta lle r than it is wide. are examples.
Used fo r making stocks and soups. Some have spigots;
TILTING KETTLE: A large, tiltin g pot used fo r stewing and oc­
these are also called marm ites.
casionally steaming.
STONE GROUND: A te rm used to describe meal or flo u r milled
TILT SKILLET: A large, relative ly shallow, tiltin g pan w ith a large
between grindstones. Because the germ o f the wheat is not
surface area. Can be used fo r braising, sauteing, or stewing.
separated, th is m ethod o f grinding retains more n utrients
than oth er methods. TIMBALE: A small pail-shaped mold used to shape rice, cus­
tards, mousselines, and o ther items. Also, a preparation
STRAIGHT FORCEMEAT: A fo rce m e a t combining lean m eat and
made in such a mold.
fa t by grinding the m ixture together.
TOMALLEY: Lob ste r liver, which is olive green in color and used
STRAIGHT-MIX METHOD: The dough-m ixing method in which
in sauces and o th e r items.
all ingredients are combined all a t once by hand or machine.
TOMATO SAUCE: A sauce prepared by sim mering tom atoes in
STRAIN: To pass a liquid through a sieve or screen to remove
a liquid (w ater or broth) w ith arom atics. One o f the “grand”
particles.
sauces.
SUPREME: The breast fille t and wing o f chicken or o ther poul­
TOTAL UTILIZATION: The principle advocating the use o f as
try . Sauce supreme is chicken veloute enriched w ith cream.
much o f a p roduct as possible in order to reduce waste and
SWEAT: To cook an item , usually vegetable(s), in a covered pan increase p ro fits.
in a sm all amount o f fa t u n til it softens and releases m ois­
TOURNANT: Roundsman or swing cook; a kitchen s ta ff member
tu re but does not brown.
who works as needed throughout the kitchen.
SWEETBREADS: The thym us glands o f young animals, usu­
TOURNER: To cut item s, usually vegetables, into a barrel, olive,
ally calves but also lambs or pigs. Usually sold in pairs.
or fo o tb a ll shape. Tourneed fo o ds should have five or seven
Sweetbreads have a m ild fla v o r and sm ooth texture. They
sides or faces and blunt ends.
m ust be soaked in acidulated w a te r p rio r to cooking and
the ou ter membrane m ust be removed. TOXIN: A naturally occurring poison, p a rticu la rly those pro­
duced by the m etabolic a c tiv ity o f living organisms such as
SWISS: To pound meat, usually beef, w ith flo u r and seasonings,
bacteria.
breaking up the muscle fib e rs and tenderizing the meat.
TRANCHE: A slice or cut o f meat, fish, or p o u ltry cut on a bias
SYRUP: Sugar dissolved in liquid, usually water, possibly w ith
to visually increase the appearance o f the cut.
the addition o f flavorings such as spices or citrus zests.
TRICHINELLA SPIRALIS: A spiral-shaped parasitic worm th a t

t invades the in te stin es and muscle tissue. Transmitted

p rim a rily through in fe cted pork th a t has not been cooked
TABLE D'HOTE: A fixe d -p rice menu w ith a single price fo r an
su fficie n tly.
e ntire meal based on the entree selection.
TRIPE: The edible stomach lining o f a cow or o ther ruminant.
TABLE SALT: Refined granulated salt. May be fo rtifie d w ith
Honeycomb trip e comes fro m the second stomach and has
iodine and tre a te d w ith magnesium carbonate to prevent
a honeycom b-like appearance.
clumping.
TRUSS: To tie up m eat or p o u ltry w ith string before cooking it,
TART: A shallow straig h t-sid e d pastry crust (may be flu te d or
to give it a com pact shape fo r more even cooking and b e t­
plain), fille d w ith a savory or sweet, fresh and/or cooked
te r appearance.
fillin g . Also, describes something, very acidic or sour.
TUBER: The fle sh y root, stem, or rhizome o f a plant, able to
TEMPER: To heat gently and gradually. May re fe r to the process
grow into a new plant. Some, such as potatoes, are eaten as
o f incorporating hot liquid into a liaison to gradually raise
vegetables.

G LO S S A R Y 1183
 TUILE: Literally, "tile.” A thin w a fe r-like cookie or fo o d cut to
resemble th is cookie. Tuiles are fre q u e n tly shaped while
s till warm and pliable by pressing them into molds or drap­
ing them over rolling pins or dowels.
TUNNELING: A fa u lt in baked goods th a t may occur due to
overm ixing or by not fu lly incorporating a chemical leaven-
er, among oth er reasons. The finished product w ill contain
large holes (tunnels).
UMAMI: Describes a savory, m eaty ta ste ; o fte n associated w ith
m onosodium glutam ate (MSG) and mushrooms.
UNIVALVE: A single-shelled, single-m uscle m ollusk such as
abalone and sea urchin.
UNSATURATED FAT: A fa t molecule w ith a t least one available
bonding site not fille d w ith a hydrogen atom. May be mono­
unsaturated or polyunsaturated. Tends to be liquid a t room
tem perature. Prim arily o f vegetable origin.
V WHEY: The liquid le ft a fte r curds have form ed in milk.
VANILLA SAUCE: A s tirre d custard made w ith cream and/or
milk, sugar, eggs, and vanilla. May be served as a sauce or
used in pastry preparations such as Bavarian cream and ice
cream. Also known as creme anglaise.
VARIETY MEAT: M eat from a p a rt o f an animal o ther than the
muscle (e.g., organ meats). Variety m eats include tongue,
liver, brains, kidneys, sweetbreads, and tripe . Also called
offal.
VEGETABLE SOUP: A b ro th - or w ater-based soup made p ri­
m arily w ith vegetables; may include meats, legumes, and
noodles and may be clear or thick.
VEGETARIAN: An individual who has adopted a specific d ie t
th a t elim inates m eat and fish and products derived from
m eat and fish but not all animal products. Lacto-ovo-
vegetarians include dairy products and eggs in th e ir diet;
ovo-vegetarians include eggs. Vegans eat no fo o ds derived
in any way fro m animals.
VELOUTE: A sauce o f w h ite stock (chicken, veal, or seafood)
thickened w ith w hite roux. One o f the “grand" sauces. Also,
a cream soup made w ith a veloute sauce base and fla v o r­
ings (usually pureed), usually finished w ith a liaison.
VENISON: M eat from large game animals in the deer fam ily, but
o fte n used to re fe r specifically to deer meat.
VERTICAL CHOPPING MACHINE (VCM): A machine sim ilar to a
blender th a t has ro ta tin g blades used to grind, whip, emul­
sify, or blend foods.
VINAIGRETTE: A cold sauce o f oil and vinegar, usually w ith va ri­
ous flavorings. It is a tem porary emulsion. The standard
p ro portion is three parts o il to one p a rt vinegar.
VIRUS: A typ e o f pathogenic m icroorganism th a t can be tra n s­
m itte d in food. Viruses cause illnesses such as measles,
chicken pox, in fe ctio us h epatitis, and colds.
1184 G LO S S A R Y
VITAMINS: Any o f various n u tritio n a lly essential organic sub­
stances th a t do not provide energy but usually act as regu­
lators in m etabolic processes and help maintain health.
w
WAFFLE: A crisp, pancake-like b a tte r product, cooked on a
specialized griddle th a t gives the finished product a tex-
tu re d pattern, usually a grid. Also, a special vegetable cut
th a t produces a grid or basket-weave pattern. Also known
as g a u fre tte .
WALK-IN REFRIGERATOR: A re frig e ra tio n unit large enough to
walk into. It is occasionally large enough to m aintain zones
o f d iffe re n t tem peratures and hum idity to sto re a variety
o f fo o ds properly. Some have reach-in doors as well. Some
are large enough to accomm odate rolling carts as well as
many shelves o f goods.
WASABLThe ro o t o f an Asian plant sim ilar to horseradish. It
becomes b rig h t green when mixed w ith water. Used as a
condim ent in Japanese cooking.
WHIP/WHISK: To beat an item , such as cream or egg whites, to
incorporate air. Also, a special to o l fo r whipping made o f
looped wire attached to a handle.
WHITE CHOCOLATE: Cocoa b u tte r flavored w ith sugar and m ilk
solids. It does not contain any cocoa solids, so it does not
have the characteristic brown color th a t regular chocolate
has.
WHITE MIREPOIX: M irepoix th a t does not include carrots, and
may include chopped mushrooms or mushroom trim m ings
and parsnips. Used fo r pale or w h ite sauces and stocks.
WHITE STOCK: A light-colored stock made w ith bones th a t
have not been browned.
WHOLE GRAIN: An unmilled or unprocessed grain.
WHOLE WHEAT FLOUR: Flour m illed from the whole grain in­
cluding the bran, germ, and endosperm.
WOK: A round-bottom ed pan, usually made o f rolled steel,
used in Asian cuisine fo r nearly all cooking methods. Its
shape allows fo r even heat d istrib u tio n and easy tossing o f
ingredients.
y
YAM: A large tu b e r th a t grows in tro p ica l and subtropical cli­
mates; it has starchy pale-yellow flesh. The name "yam” is
also used fo r the botanically unrelated sweet potato.
YEAST: M icroscopic organism whose m etabolic processes are
responsible fo r fe rm e n tatio n . It is used fo r leavening bread
and in the m aking o f beer and wine.
YOGURT: M ilk cultured w ith bacteria to give it a slig h tly thick
consistency and sour flavor.
z
ZEST: The thin, b rig h tly colored o uter p a rt o f citrus rind. It con­
tains vo la tile oils, m aking it ideal fo r use as a flavoring.
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Ita lia n Food. Elizabeth David. Penguin, 1999.
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Lidia's Italian-A m erican Kitchen. Lidia M atticch io Bastianich.
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A M editerranean Feast. C liffo rd W right. Morrow, 1999.
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The Bread Bible: Beth Hensperger's 3 0 0 Favorite Recipes. Beth
Hensperger. Chronicle, 2004.
F latbreads and Flavors: A Culinary A tlas. Je ffre y A lfo rd and
Naomi Duguid. M orrow, 1995.
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fo r the Connoisseur. Nancy Silverton w ith Laurie Ochoa.
Villard, 1996.
The New In te rn a tio n al C onfectioner. 5th rev. ed. W ilfre d J.
France and Michael R. Small, eds. London: Virtue, 1981.
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Reinhold, 1990.
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R E A D IN G S A N D RESO URCES 1189
 wines and spirits culinary associations
Exploring Wine: The Culinary In s titu te o f Am erica's Complete American Culinary
Guide to Wines o f the World. 3rd ed. Steven Kolpan, Brian Federation (ACF)
H. Smith, and Michael A. Weiss. Wiley, 2010. 180 Center Place Way
G reat Wines Made Simple: S tra ig h t Talk from a M a ste r St. Augustine, FL 3 2 095
Sommelier. Andrea Immer. Clarkson Potter, 2005. (8 0 0 )6 2 4 -9 4 5 8
w w w .acfchefs.org
Hugh Johnson's Modern Encyclopedia o f Wine. 4 th ed. Hugh
Johnson. Simon 6 Schuster, 1998.
The American Institute of
Larousse Encyclopedia o f Wine. C hristopher Foulkes, ed.
Wine & Food (AIWF)
Larousse, 2001.
95 P rescott Avenue
Windows on the W orld Com plete Wine Course: 2 0 0 9 Edition. Monterey, CA 93940
Kevin Zraly. Sterling, 2009. (800) 2 7 4 -2 4 9 3
www.aiwf.org
Les Dames d'Escoffier
P.O. Box 4961
Louisville, KY 40 204
(5 0 2 )4 5 6 -1 8 5 1
www.ldei.org
National Restaurant
Association (NRA)
1 2 0 0 1 7 th S treet, NW
Washington, DC 2 0 036
(2 0 2 )3 3 1 -5 9 0 0
www.restaurant.org

Oldways Preservation Trust

periodicals and journals Chefs Collaborative

89 South S tre e t
2 66 Beacon S tre e t
Boston, MA 02116
Am erican Brewer Food Technology Boston, MA 02111 (617) 4 2 1 -5 5 0 0
A p pellation Fresh Cup (617) 2 3 6 -5 2 0 0 w w w .oldwayspt.org
A rt Culinaire G astronom ica w w w .chefscollaborative.org
The A rt o f Eating Herb Companion ProChef Certification
Beverage Digest H o s p ita lity The International Council on 1946 Campus Drive
Beverage World H o s p ita lity Design Hotel, Restaurant and Hyde Park, NY 1 2 5 38 -1 4 9 9
Bon A p p e tit H o te l and M ote l Institutional Education (8 4 5 )4 5 2 -4 6 0 0
Brewer's D igest M anagem ent (CHRIE) www.prochef.com
C aterer and Hotelkeeper Hotels 2 810 North Parham Road,
Chef Lodging Suite 230
Share Our Strength (SOS)
Chocolate News M e a t and P oultry Richmond, VA 2 3 2 94
1730 M S treet, NW, Suite
C hocolatier M odern Baking (804) 3 4 6 -4 8 0 0
700
Cooking fo r P ro fit Nation's R estaurant News www.chrie.org
Washington, DC 2 0 036
Cooking L ight N u tritio n A ction Health
(800) 9 6 9 -4 7 6 7
Cook's Illu s tra te d L e tte r
International Association www.strength.org
Culinary Trends Pizza Today
of Culinary Professionals
Decanter Prepared Foods
(IACP)
Eating Well R estaurant Business Women Chefs and
1100 Johnson Ferry Road,
Food i j Wine R estaurant H o sp ita lity Restaurateurs (WCR)
Suite 300
Food A rts Restaurants and In stitu tio n s P.O. Box 1875
Atlanta, 6 A 3 0 342
Food fo r Thought Saveur Madison, AL 3 5 758
(80 0 )9 2 8-4 2 2 7
Food M anagem ent Wine and S p irits (877) 9 2 7 -7 7 8 7
www.iacp.com
Foodservice and H o s p ita lity Wines and Vines www.womenchefs.org
Foodservice D ire ctor Wine S p e cta to r
The James Beard
Foundation
167 W est 12 th S tre e t
New York, NY 10011
(800) 36BEARD
www.jamesbeard.org

1190 R E A D IN G S A N D R ES O U R C ES
recipe index
a
Acorn Squash, Baked, with Cranberry-
Orange Compote, 689
Aioli, 904
Almond(s)
Biscotti, -Anise, 1086-1087
-Fig Vinaigrette, 897
Frangipane Filling, 1128
Pear Frangipane Tartlets, 1128
in Picada, 612-613
Trout Amandine, 509
Amaranth Pancakes, 803
Amish Corn and Chicken Soup, 334
Ancho-Crusted Salmon with Yellow
Pepper Sauce, 510-511
Anchovy(ies)
in Caesar-Style Dressing, 902
-Caper Mayonnaise, 903
Pescado Frito, 972-973
in Provencal Sauce, 501
Andalucian Gazpacho (Gazpacho
Andaluz), 349
Angel Food Cake, 1082
Anise-Almond Biscotti, 1086-1087
Annatto Rice, 781
Apple(s)
Butter, 1130
Caramelized, 448,1138
Celeriac and Tart Apple Salad, 918
Chips, 1136
Pie, 1125
Sandwich with Curry Mayonnaise,
943
in Waldorf Salad, 918
and Watercress Salad, Sherried, 917
Apple Cider
Sauce, 448
Vinaigrette, 897
Apricot Glaze, 1130
Arroz Blanco, 781
Arroz Brasileiro, 782
Arroz Mexicano, 782
Artichoke(s)
Eggs Massena, Poached, 869
Lamb Chops, Grilled, with
Rosemary, Cipollini Onions
and, 451
and Pepper Salad, 750
Souffle, 875
Arugula, Sauteed, 702
Asiago Cheese and Corn Risotto
Cakes, 805
Asian Dipping Sauce, 956
Asian-Style Marinade, 372
Asparagus
with Lemony Hollandaise,
6 8 8 -6 8 9
Tips, Risotto with, 783
Soup, Cream of (Creme
dArgenteuil), 339
and White Bean Lasagna, 829
Aspic, 995
Avocado
Baby Spinach, and Grapefruit
Salad, 918
in California Rolls, 981
in Cobb Salad, 912, 913
Guacamole, 958
Lobster Salad with Beets, Mangos,
Orange Oil and, 983
b
Baba Ghanoush, 958
Baby Spinach, Avocado, and
Grapefruit Salad, 918
Baby Squid in Black Ink Sauce
(Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean),
976
Bacon
with Brook Trout, Pan-Fried, 522
in Choucroute, 592 -5 9 3
Club, CIA, 934, 935
Cobb Salad, 912, 913
Eggs Benedict, 870, 871
Quiche Lorraine, 876
in Rouladen Stuffing, 585
Sea Bass, Poached, with Clams,
Peppers and, 553
Vinaigrette, Warm, Wilted Spinach
Salad with, 914-915
Baguettes, 1033
Baked Acorn Squash with Cranberry-
Orange Compote, 6 8 9
Baked Potatoes with Deep-Fried
Onions, 735
Baked Stuffed Pork Chops, 465
Balsamic Vinaigrette, 897
Banana
-Nut Bread, 1079,1080
Pancakes, 1073
Barbecue(d)
Beef Sandwich, 936
Carolina, 4 6 8 -4 6 9
Chicken Breast with Black Bean
Sauce, 458
Marinade, 372
Spice Mix, 368
Steak with Herb Crust, 445
Barbecue Sauce
Guava, 467
Mustard (North Carolina Eastern
Low Country), 469
North Carolina Piedmont, 469
North Carolina Western, 469
for Ribs, St. Louis-Style, 475
Barley
Pilaf, Mixed Grain, 796
Pilaf, Pearl, 780
Salad with Cucumber and Mint,
800, 801
Basic Boiled Pasta, 819
Basic Boiled Rice, 785
Basic Lean Dough, 1033
Basic Muffin Recipe, 1078
Basic Pie Dough (3-2-1), 1070
Basic Polenta, 792
Basic Waffles, 1073
Basil
Butter, 300
Ice Cream, 1143-1144
Oil, 906
Pesto, 299
in Provencal Sauce, 501
Sauce, 1145
Thai, Stir-Fried Squid with, 515
Bass
Poached Sea, with Clams, Bacon,
and Peppers, 553
and Scallops en Papillote, 553
Batter
Beer, 522
Beignet, Chocolate, 1154
Pate a Choux, 1084
Tempura, 523
BBQ Spice Rub, 791
Bean(s). See also Black Bean(s);
Chickpeas; Green Beans
Black-Eyed Pea Salad, Warm, 929
in Cassoulet, 594
Corona (Fagioli all’Uccelletto), 772
Edamame, Boiled, 444, 681
Falafel, 776
Frijoles Puercos Estilo Sinaloa, 773
Green Chile Stew, New Mexican,
595
Haricots Blancs, Roast Leg of Lamb
with (Gigot a la Bretonne),
480
Lima, Roman-Style, 774
Pinto, Creamed (Frijoles
Maneados), 772
in Poblanos Rellenos, 698, 699
Red, and Rice, Boiled, 777
Rice and, 776
Salad, Mixed, 929
Soup, Black Bean, Caribbean-Style
Puree of, 345
Soup, Senate, 346
Soup, White Bean and Escarole,
Tuscan, 355
in Taco Salad, 913
and Tuna Salad (Insalata di Tonno e
Fagioli), 975
White, and Asparagus Lasagna, 829
White, Boiled, 777
White, Stew, Southwest, 775
Bean Curd
Grandmother’s (Ma Po Dofu),
526, 527
in Pad Thai, 8 2 2 -8 2 3
Smoked, and Celery Salad, 908
Tofu Cakes with Portobello
Mushrooms and Mango
Ketchup, 971
Bearnaise Sauce, 297
Bechamel Sauce, 295
Bolognese Lasagna, Classic, with
Ragu and (Lasagna al Forno),
826, 827
Beef. See also Corned Beef; Steaks(s)
Barbecued, Sandwich, 936
in Bibimbap, 514
Boiled, with Spatzle and Potatoes
(Gaisburger Marsch), 570
Bolognese Meat Sauce (Ragu
Bolognese), 296
Brisket, Smoked, with Sweet
Pickles, 472-473
Broth, 334
Cabbage, Stuffed, Polish, 6 0 2 -6 0 3
Carpaccio, 982
Consomme, 333
Forcemeat Stuffing, Herbed, 605
Goulash, 599
Noodle Soup (Pho Bo), 569
Oxtails, Braised, 581
Pot Roast, Yankee, 586
Rib Roast au Jus, Standing, 464
Rouladen in Burgundy Sauce,
5 8 4 -5 8 5
Satay with Peanut Sauce, 9 8 2 -9 8 3
Sauerbraten, 587
and Scallions, Skewered, 446
Short Ribs, Braised, 584
Short Ribs, Braised, Korean (Kalbi
Jjim), 5 8 2 -5 8 3
Soup, Spicy (Yukkaejang), 351
Stew, 589
Stock, White, 263
in Taco Salad, 913
Teriyaki, 4 4 4 ,4 4 5
Tournedos Provencal, 501
Wellington, 463
Beer
Batter, 522
and Cheddar Soup, Wisconsin, 340
Beet(s)
Glazed, 6 82, 683
Lobster Salad with Mangos,
Avocado, Orange Oil and,
983
Mushrooms, and Baby Greens with
Robiola Cheese and Walnuts,
916, 917
Pasta, 819
Beignet Batter, Chocolate, 1154
Beignet Truffle Centers, 1153
Belgian Endive
a la Meuniere, 704
Salad with Roquefort and Walnuts
(Salade de Roquefort, Noix,
et Endives), 910-911
Bell Pepper(s). See also Red Pepper(s)
and Artichoke Salad, 750
Black Beans with Chorizo and,
7 6 8 -7 6 9
in Chili, Vegetarian, 7 7 8-779
Grilled Vegetables Proven^al-Style,
686
Marinated Roasted, 694, 695
and Pork Pie (Empanada Gallega de
Cerdo), 984
Roasted (Peperoni Arrostiti), 928
Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade,
960
Sea Bass, Poached, with Clams,
Bacon and, 553
Yellow Pepper Sauce, 511
Berny Potatoes, 747
Beurre Blanc, 298
Beurre Noisette, Potato and
Cheddar-Filled Pierogi with
Caramelized Onions, Sage
and, 8 4 2 -8 4 3
Bibimbap, 514
Bigarade Sauce, Roast Duckling with,
4 8 4 -4 8 5
Biscotti, Almond-Anise, 1086-1087
Biscuit Dumplings, 835
Biscuits, Buttermilk, 1070-1071
Bisque
Lobster (Bisque de Homard), 348
Shrimp, 347
Black Bean(s)
Cakes, 9 7 8 -9 7 9
Chili, Vegetarian, 7 78-779
Crepes, Vegetarian, 770, 771
Frijoles a la Charra, 773
Frijoles Refritos, 771
Mash, 768
-Papaya Salsa, 955
with Peppers and Chorizo, 7 6 8 -7 6 9
Sauce, 458
Soup, Caribbean-Style Puree of, 345
Stewed, 775
RECIPE IN D E X 1191
 Blackberry and Port-Poached Pears Dough, Sweet, 1045 Turkey, 334 Pound, 1081
with Ricotta Cream and Sable Focaccia, 1034-1035 Veal, 334 Sponge, Chocolate, 1083
Cookies, 1139-1141 Naan, 1038,1039 Brownies, Fudge, 1090 Sponge, Vanilla, 1083
Black-Eyed Pea Salad, Warm, 929 Pita, 1037 Brown Rice Pilaf California Rolls, 981
Black Ink Sauce, Baby Squid in Pizza Crust, Semolina, 1037 with Pecans and Green Onions, Canja (Chicken Rice Soup), 336
(Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean), Raisin, with Cinnamon Swirl, 1042, 7 8 0 -7 8 1 Cantonese Pork Roast (Char Siu), 466
976 1043 Short-Grain, 781 Caper-Anchovy Mayonnaise, 903
Black Peppercorn Dressing, Creamy, Rolls Brown Stock Caramelized Apples, 4 48,1138
904 Cottage Dill, 1039 Chicken, 264 Caramelized Onion Quiche, 876
Black Pepper Pasta, 819 Hard, 1036 Duck, 264 Caramel Sauce
Blitz Puff Pastry Dough, 1077 Soft Dinner, 1045 Game (Jus de Gibier), 264 Classic, 1129,1153
Blueberry Bread and Butter Pudding, 1106 Lamb, 264 Vanilla, 1159
Compote, 1145 Bread Crumbs Pork, 264 Caribbean-Style Puree of Black Bean
Muffins, 1078,1080 Gremolata, 601 Veal, 263 Soup, 345
Pancakes, 1073 Horseradish and Smoked Salmon Buckwheat Carolina Barbecue, 4 6 8 -4 6 9
Blue Cheese Crust, Salmon Fillet with, Kasha with Spicy Maple Pecans, Carpaccio
in Cobb Salad, 912, 913 486 799 Beef, 982
Dressing, 904 Persillade, 477 Pasta, 819 Tuna (Crudo di Tonno alia Battuta),
Mousse, 953 Bread Dumplings, 835 Bulgur 964, 965
Bluefish, Broiled, a l’Anglaise with Bread Salad Pilaf, -G reen Onion, 796-797 Carrot(s)
Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 461 Eastern Mediterranean (Fattoush), Salad, Sweet and Spicy, 800 Boiled, 681
Boiled Beef with Spatzle and Potatoes 926 Buns, Sticky, 1046 Glazed, 685
(Gaisburger Marsch), 570 Panzanella, 927 Burger, Chicken, 936 Pan-Steamed, 684
Boiled Carrots, 681 Breast of Chicken with Duxelles Burgundy Sauce, Beef Rouladen in, Pasta, 819
Boiled Edamame, 681 Stuffing and Supreme Sauce, 5 8 4 -5 8 5 Pecan, 684
Boiled Parsley Potatoes, 736, 737 515 Butter(s) Roasted, 695
Boiled Rice, Basic, 785 Breast of Rock Cornish Game Hen Apple, 1130 Salad, Moroccan, 920
Boiled White Beans, 777 with Mushroom Forcemeat, Basil, 300 Cashew Noodles, Tempeh, 824, 825
Bok Choy, Stir-Fried Shanghai 4 8 3 -4 8 4 Beurre Blanc, 298 Cassoulet, 594
(Qinchao Shanghai Baicai), Brine Beurre Noisette, Potato and Catalina French Dressing, 902
7 02-703 Meat, 999 Cheddar-Filled Pierogi with Cauliflower
Bolognese Lasagna, Classic, with Ragu for Cantonese Pork Roast (Char Caramelized Onions, Sage Curried Roasted, 692
and Bechamel (Lasagna al Siu), 466 and, 8 4 2 -8 4 3 and Millet Puree, 796
Forno), 826, 827 Brioche Loaf, 1040 Dill, 300 Celeriac and Tart Apple Salad, 918
Bolognese Meat Sauce (Ragu Brioche a Tete, 1040,1041 Green Onion, 300 Celery
Bolognese), 296 Brisket, Smoked, with Sweet Pickles, in Hollandaise Sauce, 298 and Smoked Bean Curd Salad, 908
Boston Scrod with Cream, Capers, and 47 2 -4 7 3 Maitre d’Hotel, 300 Soup, Cream of (Creme de Celeri),
Tomatoes, 561 Broccoli Persillade, 477 339
Boules, 1034 and Cheddar Quiche, 876 Pimiento, 300 Ceviche Estilo Acapulco, 963
Bouquet Garni, 774 Soup, Cream of, 339 Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano, Cha Ca Thang Long (Hanoi Fried Fish
Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni Steamed, 681 300 with Dill), 527
(Braised Pork Rolls and and Toasted Garlic, 681 Tarragon, 300 Challah (3-Braid), 1044
Sausage in Meat Sauce with Broccoli Rabe Buttercream, Italian, 1125 Chantilly Cream (Creme Chantilly),
Rigatoni), 590 -5 9 1 with Garlic and Hot Crushed Buttermilk 1023,1146
Braised Fennel in Butter, 710 Pepper (Cime di Broccoli con Biscuits, 1070-1071 Orange-Scented, 1138
Braised Greens, 710 Aglio e Pepperoncino), 705 Chicken, Fried, 516-517 Chao Tom (Grilled Shrimp Paste on
Braised Lamb Shanks, 604 Orecchiette with Italian Sausage, Johnny Cakes, 1074 Sugarcane), 977
Braised Oxtails, 581 Parmesan and, 820, 821 Muffin Recipe, Basic, 1078 Charcutiere Sauce, 508
Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in Brodo (Poultry and Meat Stock), 266 Pancakes, 1073 Char Siu (Cantonese Pork Roast), 466
Meat Sauce with Rigatoni Broiled Bluefish a l’Anglaise with Butternut Squash Chateau Potatoes, 740
(Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 461 Puree, 691 Chayote Salad with Oranges (Salada
Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1 Broiled Chicken Breasts with Fennel, in Risotto, Vegetarian, 784 de Xuxu), 919
Braised Red Cabbage, 711 455 Butterscotch Sauce, 1137 Cheddar
Braised Romaine, 711 Broiled Chicken Breasts with Sun- and Beer Soup, Wisconsin, 340
Braised Sauerkraut, 712 Dried Tomato and Oregano Omelet, Souffleed, 874
Braised Short Ribs, 584 Butter, 454 C and Potato-Filled Pierogi with
Braised Short Ribs, Korean (Kalbi Broiled Lamb Kebabs with Pimiento Cabbage Caramelized Onions, Beurre
Jjim), 582 Butter, 447 Coleslaw, 920 Noisette, and Sage, 8 4 2 -8 4 3
Braised Veal Breast with Mushroom Broiled Pork Chops with Sherry Coleslaw, Pork Butt with, 4 7 0 -4 7 1 Quiche, and Broccoli, 876
Sausage, 598 Vinegar Sauce, 450 in Corned Beef with Winter Sauce, 294
Bran Muffins, 1078 Broiled Shrimp with Garlic, 969 Vegetables, 5 6 6 -5 6 7 Scones, and Ham, 1072
Bratwurst, Scrambled Eggs with, 872 Broiled Sirloin Steak with Maitre Dim Sum, 837 Cheese. See also specific cheeses
Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7 d’Hotel Butter, 440 in Dumplings, Pan-Fried (Guo Tie), in Chef’s Salad, 909
Bread(s), Quick. See also Muffins; Broiled Sirloin Steak with Marchand 840, 841 Croque Monsieur, 937
Scones de Vin Sauce, 441 in Potage Garbure, 346 Deviled Eggs with, 866
Banana-Nut, 1079,1080 Broiled Sirloin Steak with Mushroom Red, Braised, 711 Melt, Three-, 940
Biscuits, Buttermilk, 1070-1071 Sauce, 440 Salad, Warm, 506 Mornay Sauce, 295
Cornbread, 1079 Broiled Stuffed Lobster, 4 6 0 -4 6 1 Sauerkraut, Homemade, 593 Omelet, 873
Fried (Puri), 1074 Brook Trout, Pan-Fried, with Bacon, Stuffed, Polish, 6 0 2 -6 0 3 Omelet, and Meat, 873
Johnny Cakes, 1074 522 Caesar Salad, 908 Omelet, and Vegetable, 873
Pumpkin, 1080,1081 Broth. See also Consomme Caesar-Style Dressing, 902 in Poblanos Rellenos, 698, 699
Soda Bread, Irish, 1072 Beef, 334 Cake(s) Scrambled Eggs with, 872
Bread(s), Yeast Chicken, 334 Angel Food, 1082 Souffle, Savory, 874
Baguettes, 1033 Fish, 334 Cheesecake, 1084 in Taco Salad, 913
Boules, 1034 Game, 334 Chocolate XS, 1083 Cheesecake, 1084
Brioche Loaf, 1040 Ham, 334 Date Spice, 1137 Chef Clark’s Southwest-Style Sauce,
Brioche a Tete, 1040,1041 Lamb, 334 Date Spice, Warm, with 4 7 2 -4 7 3
Buns, Sticky, 1046 Pork, Smoked, 334 Butterscotch Sauce and Chef’s Salad, 909
Challah (3-Braid), 1044 Saffron, with Fennel, Seafood Cinnamon Ice Cream, Cherry(ies)
Ciabatta, 1036 Poached in a, 570 1134-1138 -Chocolate Chunk Cookies, 1088
Dough, Basic Lean, 1033 Shellfish, 334 Devil’s Food, 1082

1192 REC IPE IN D E X

 Duck Terrine with Pistachios and Harissa, 959 Citrus Risotto Cakes, and Asiago Cheese,
Dried, 1002-1003 Mole Negro, 5 8 8 -5 8 9 Honey-Poppy Seed Dressing, 898 805
Pie, 1126 Poblanos Rellenos, 698, 699 Marinade, Latin (Mojo), 373 Cornbread, 1079
Sauce, Dried, 1130 Rellenos con Picadillo Oaxaqueno, Pasta, 819 Johnny Cakes, 1074
Wheat Berry Salad with Oranges, 5 2 8 -5 2 9 Clam(s) Corned Beef
Pecans and, 798, 799 Salsa Roja, 954 Casino, 9 6 6 -9 6 7 Hash, Poached Eggs with, 869
Chesapeake-Style Crab Cakes, 968, Salsa Verde Cruda, 954 Chowder, Manhattan-Style, 344 Reuben Sandwich, 942
969 Tortilla Soup, 335 Chowder, New England-Style, 340 with Winter Vegetables, 5 6 6 -5 6 7
Chestnut Stuffing, 486 in Z’hug, 960 in Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 Corn Flake Crunch, 1159
Chicken Chili, Vegetarian, 778-7 7 9 in Fisherman’s Platter, 520 Cornmeal
Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7 Chili Powder, 368 in New England Shore Dinner, Hush Puppies, 836, 837
Breast, Barbecued, with Black Bean Chinese Five-Spice Powder, 368 560, 561 Johnny Cakes, 1074
Sauce, 458 Chinese Hot and Sour Soup (Suan La in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Corn Muffins, 1079
Breast of, with Duxelles Stuffing Tang), 350 Sea Bass, Poached, with Bacon, Corona Beans (Fagioli alPUccelletto),
and Supreme Sauce, 515 Chinese Sausage, Fried Rice with, 787 Peppers and, 553 772
Breast, Poached, with Tarragon Chipotle-Sherry Vinaigrette, 896 Classic Bolognese Lasagna with Ragu Cottage Dill Rolls, 1039
Sauce, 563 Chips and Bechamel (Lasagna al Coulis
Breasts, Grilled or Broiled, with Apple, 1136 Forno), 826, 827 Raspberry, 1129
Sun-Dried Tomato and Coconut, 1150 Classic Caramel Sauce, 1129,1153 Red Pepper, 299
Oregano Butter, 454 Plantain, Fried, 708, 709 Classic Polish Cucumber Salad Strawberry, 1146
Breasts, Grilled or Broiled, with Sweet Potato, 746, 747 (Mizeria Klasyczna), 920 Tomato, 296
Fennel, 455 Tortilla, 962 Club, CIA, 934, 935 Country Gravy, 516, 517
Broth, 334 Chocolate Cobb Salad, 912, 913 Country-Style Terrine (Pate de
Burger, 936 Beignet Batter, 1154 Coconut Campagne), 998
in Congee, 795 Brownies, Fudge, 1090 Chips, 1150 Court Bouillon, 265
Consomme, Royale, 333 Cake, XS, 1083 Flans, 1150 Couscous, 826
and Crayfish Terrine, 9 9 6,1005 Cinnamon Sticks, Milk Chocolate, Green Curry Sauce, Pork in a, 596 and Lamb, Roasted Shoulder of
Farmhouse, with Angel Biscuits, 1136 Macadamia Shrimp, 966 (Mechoui), 4 7 8 -4 7 9
564 Cookies, Chunk, 1088 Milk, Thai Chicken Soup with Lamb and Chicken Stew with, 609
Fricassee, 612 Cookies, Chunk, Cherry-, 1088 Galangal and, 353 Crab
Fried, Buttermilk, 516-517 Cookies, Mudslide, 1089 Rice, 7 8 2 -7 8 3 Cakes, Chesapeake-Style, 968, 969
Galantine, 1000-1001,1005 Eclairs, 1085 in Vatapa, 512 Stuffed Shrimp, 970
Gumbo, and Shrimp, 3 4 8 -3 4 9 Ganache, Hard, 1128 Cod Cracked Wheat and Tomato Salad,
Jus de Volaille Lie, 293 Graham Decor, 1152 in Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 802, 803
and Lamb Stew, Couscous with, Ice Cream, 1102,1103 Fish Kebabs, 462 Cranberry
609 Mousse, 1104 New England Shore Dinner, -Orange Compote, 689
Legs with Duxelles Stuffing, 482 Pastry Cream, 1098 5 6 0 -5 6 1 -Orange Muffins, 1078
Mole Negro, 5 8 8 -5 8 9 Pate a Choux, 1160 Salt Cod Cakes, Old-Fashioned, 521 -Pecan Pie, 1126
Mousseline, 996 Sauce, 1129,1159 Coddled Eggs, 866 Relish, 961
in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Souffle, 1106 Coffee Ice Cream, 1102,1103 Crayfish and Chicken Terrine, 996,
Paillards of, Grilled, with Tarragon Sponge Cake, 1083 for Profiteroles, 1156,1158 1005
Butter, 455 Straws, 1160 Coleslaw, 920 Cream(ed). See also Cream Soup(s);
and Prawn Ragout (Mar i Truffle Centers, Beignet, 1153 Pork Butt with, 4 7 0 -4 7 1 Custard; Pastry Cream; Sour
Muntanya), 612-613 Chocolate Chip Pancakes, 1073 Collard Greens Cream
Provencal, 501 Chorizo Braised, 710 Chantilly (Creme Chantilly), 1023,
Roast, with Pan Gravy, 482 Black Beans with Peppers and, and Ham Bone Soup, 350 1146
Salad, 923 76 8 -7 6 9 Common Meringue, 1024 Chantilly, Orange-Scented, 1138
Salad, Hue-Style, 924 in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Compote Corn, 683
Sauteed, with Fines Herbes Sauce, Choron Sauce, 297 Blueberry, 1145 Diplomat, 1103
500 Choucroute, 5 9 2 -5 9 3 Cranberry-Orange, 689 Mousseline Sauce, 298
Smoked, Pan-, 483 Chowder Conch Chowder, 341 Pinto Beans (Frijoles Maneados),
Soup, and Com, Amish, 334 Clam, Manhattan-Style, 344 Confit 772
Soup, Rice (Canja), 336 Clam, New England-Style, 340 Duck, 595 Ricotta, 1140
Soup, Thai, with Coconut Milk and Conch, 341 Red Onion, Noisettes of Pork with, Sauce, 295
Galangal, 353 Corn, 341 506 Scones, 1072
Soup, Tortilla, 335 Seafood, Pacific, 342 Congee, 795 Cream Cheese
Stock, 263 Chutney Consomme Cheesecake, 1084
Stock, Brown, 264 Mango, Fresh, 453 Beef, 333 Herbed, Cucumber Sandwich
Tagine, 610-611 Mango, Spicy, 961 Chicken, Royale, 333 with, 943
Tangerine-Flavored, Crispy, 524-525 Mint and Yogurt, 462 Converted White Rice Pilaf, 780 Cream Soup(s)
in Udon Noodle Pot, 566 Ciabatta, 1036 Cookie Dough 1-2-3,1086 of Asparagus (Creme dArgenteuil),
with Vegetables (Poule au Pot), 565 CIA Club, 934, 935 Cookies 339
Veloute, 294 Cider. See Apple Cider Biscotti, Almond-Anise, 1 0 8 6 -1 0 8 7 of Broccoli, 339
Chicken Liver(s) Cilantro Chocolate Chunk, 1088 of Celery (Creme de Celeri), 339
Chasseur, Poached Eggs with, 871 -Lime Soy Sauce, 956 Chocolate Chunk, Cherry-, 1088 of Tomato, 339
Omelet Opera, 873 Sorbet, 1149 Mudslide, 1089 of Tomato, with Rice, 339
Pate, 1004,1005 Cime di Broccoli con Aglio e Oatmeal-Raisin, 1089 Creamy Black Peppercorn Dressing,
Pate Grand-Mere, 994 Pepperoncino (Broccoli Rabe Pecan Diamonds, 1088 904
Chickpeas with Garlic and Hot Crushed Sable, 1140 Creme dArgenteuil (Cream of
Falafel, 776 Pepper), 705 Tuile Nut, 1090 Asparagus Soup), 339
Hummus bi Tahini, 958 Cinnamon Tuiles, 1144 Creme Brulee, 1099
Middle Eastern, 774 Ice Cream, 1135 Corn Creme Caramel, 1100-1101
Chiles Smear, 1046 Chicken Rice Soup (Canja), 336 Creme de Celeri (Cream of Celery
Ancho-Crusted Salmon with Yellow Sticks, Milk Chocolate, 1136 and Chicken Soup, Amish, 334 Soup), 339
Pepper Sauce, 510-511 Sugar, 1043 Chowder, 341 Creme Chantilly, 1023,1146
Chili Powder, 368 Swirl, Raisin Bread with, 1042, Creamed, 683 Orange-Scented, 1138
Chipotle-Sherry Vinaigrette, 896 1043 Fritters, 707 Crepes
Dipping Sauce, Vietnamese, 956 Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 Grits with Hominy and, 794, 795 Black Bean, Vegetarian, 770, 771
Game Hens, Jerked, 459 Cipollini Onions, Grilled Lamb Chops and Jicama Salad, 921 Dessert, 1076
Green Chile Stew, New Mexican, with Rosemary, Artichokes New England Shore Dinner, Saigon, 804
595 and, 451 5 6 0 -5 6 1 Suzette, 1075

RECIPE IN D E X 1 193
 Crispy Shallots, 924
Crispy Tangerine-Flavored Chicken,
524 -5 2 5
Croque Monsieur, 937
Croquette Potatoes, 748
Croquettes, Rice, 792
Croutons, 965
Garlic-Flavored, 563
Crudo di Tonno alia Battuta (Tuna
Carpaccio), 964, 965
Crumb Crust, 1051
Crust(ed)
Ancho-, Salmon with Yellow Pepper
Sauce, 510-511
Crumb, 1051
Graham Cracker, 1084,1146
Graham Cracker, for S’mores, 1152
Herb, Barbecued Steak with, 445
Horseradish and Smoked Salmon,
Salmon Fillet with, 486
Persillade, 477
Cucumber(s)
Barley Salad with Mint and, 800,
801
Dressing, 903
and Onion Salad (Kachumber), 919
Salad, 9 2 2 -9 2 3
Salad, Polish, Classic (Mizeria
Klasyczna), 920
Salad, Yogurt, 923
Sandwich with Herbed Cream
Cheese, 943
Tzatziki, Zucchini Pancakes with,
688
and Wakame Salad (Sunonomo),
922
Yogurt Sauce, 957
Cumberland Sauce, 955
Curry(ied)
Cauliflower, Roasted, 692
Goat with Green Papaya Salad, 608
Mayonnaise, Apple Sandwich
with, 943
Onion Relish, 961
Pasta, 819
Pork in a Green Curry Sauce, 596
Rice Salad, 930
Sweet Potato Salad, 749
Vinaigrette, 898
Vinaigrette, Guava-, 899
Curry Paste
Green, 370
Red, 370
Yellow, 371
Curry Powder, 369
Custard. See also Quiche(s)
Bread and Butter Pudding, 1106
Coconut Flans, 1150
Creme Brulee, 1099
Creme Caramel, 1100-1101
Goat Cheese, Warm, 875
Royale, 333
Sabayon, 1129
Vanilla Sauce, 1099
Zabaglione, 1129
d
Daikon Salad, Sliced (Mu Chae), 922
Dashi, Ichi Ban, 267
Date Spice Cake, Warm, with
Butterscotch Sauce and
Cinnamon Ice Cream,
1134-1138
Deep-Fried Onions, 581
Delmonico Potatoes, 740
Demi-Glace, 293
Dessert Crepes, 1076
Dessert Sauce
Basil, 1145
Butterscotch, 1137
1194 REC IPE IN D E X
Caramel, Classic, 1129,1153 Hard-Cooked, in Chef’s Salad, 909 Bass, Sea, Poached, with Clams,
Caramel, Vanilla 1159 Medium-Cooked, 866 Bacon, and Peppers, 553
Cherry, Dried, 1130 Omelet, White, Plain Rolled, 873 Bluefish, Broiled, a l’Anglaise with
Chocolate, 1129,1159 Over Easy, Medium or Hard, 871 Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 461
Vanilla, 1099 Pickled, 868 Broth, 334
White, 1154 Pickled, Red, 8 6 8 Cakes, Fried, 528
Deviled Eggs, 8 6 6 -8 6 7 Poached, 868 Cakes, Salt Cod, Old-Fashioned, 521
with Cheese, 866 American-Style, 871 Ceviche Estilo Acapulco, 963
with Greens, 866 with Chicken Liver Chasseur, Chowder, Pacific Seafood, 342
with Tomato, 866 871 Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3
Devil’s Food Cake, 1082 with Corned Beef Hash, 869 Dashi, Ichi Ban, 267
Dill Farmer-Style, 869 Deviled Eggs with, 866
Butter, 300 Massena, 869 Fisherman’s Platter, 520
Cottage Rolls, 1039 Mornay, 869 Flounder a l’Orly, 522
Hanoi Fried Fish with (Cha Ca with Mushrooms, 869 Flounder Mousseline, 993
Thang Long), 527 with Smoked Salmon, 871 Fried with Dill, Hanoi (Cha Ca
Sauce, 447 Salad, 925 Thang Long), 527
Dim Sum, 837 Scrambled, 872 Fumet, 264
Dinner Rolls, Soft, 1045 with Bratwurst, 872 Kebabs, 462
Diplomat Cream, 1103 with Cheese, 872 Mahi Mahi, Fillet of, with
Dipping Sauce Gratine, 872 Pineapple-Jicama Salsa, 459
Asian, 956 Greek-Style, 872 Marinade, 372
Cilantro-Lime Soy, 956 Hunter-Style, 872 New England Shore Dinner, 560,561
Ginger-Soy, 841 Whites, 872 Omelet, Seafood, 873
Spring Roll, 957 Soft-Cooked, 866 Pate en Croute, Seafood, 1 0 0 8 -
Tempura, 523 Wash, 1023 1009
Vietnamese, 956 White Omelet, Plain Rolled, 873 Pescado Frito, 9 7 2 -9 7 3
Dough. See also Pasta Dough, Fresh Whites, Scrambled, 872 Pescado Veracruzana, 562
Egg; Pastry Dough Egg Pasta. See Pasta Dough, Fresh Egg Poached Seafood in a Saffron Broth
Cookie 1-2-3,1086 Eggplant with Fennel, 570
Lean, Basic, 1033 Baba Ghanoush, 958 Scrod, Boston, with Cream, Capers,
Pate, 1006-1007 Filling, Marinated, 939 and Tomatoes, 561
Pate, Saffron, 1006 Grilled Vegetable Sandwich with Snapper, Fillet of, en Papillote,
Pizza Crust, Semolina, 1037 Manchego Cheese, 940 5 5 8 -5 5 9
Samosas, 970 Grilled Vegetables Provencal, 686 Snapper, Red, with Grapefruit
Sweet, 1045 Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790, Salsa, 509
Dried Cherry Sauce, 1130 791 Vatapa, 512
Duchesse Potatoes, 737 Parmesan, 6 9 6 -6 9 7 Veloute, 294
Duck and Prosciutto Panini, 938, 939 Fisherman’s Platter, 520
Confit, 595 Ratatouille, 708 Five-Spice Powder, Chinese, 368
Jus de Canard Lie, 293 in Scrambled Eggs, Greek-Style, 872 Flank Steak, in Brazilian Mixed Grill,
Roast Duckling with Sauce Vegetable Tarts, Seasonal, 701 4 5 6 -4 5 7
Bigarade, 4 8 4 -4 8 5 Emince of Swiss-Style Veal, 502, 503 Flans, Coconut, 1150
Stock, Brown, 264 Empanada Gallega de Cerdo (Pork and Flounder
Terrine with Pistachios and Dried Pepper Pie), 984 in Fisherman’s Platter, 520
Cherries, 1002-1003 Endive. See Belgian Endive Mousseline, 993
Terrine, and Smoked Ham, Escarole and White Bean Soup, a l’Orly, 522
1004-1005 Tuscan, 355 Pescado Frito, 9 7 2 -9 7 3
Dulce de Leche Ice Cream, 1156,1158 Espagnole Sauce, 294 Focaccia, 1034-1035
Dumplings. See also Gnocchi Estouffade, 264 Foie Gras
Biscuit, 835 European-Style Potato Salad, 926 in Beef Wellington, 463
Bread, 835 Roulade, 1001
Dim Sum, 837
Hush Puppies, 836, 837
Pan-Fried (Guo Tie), 840, 841
f
Fagioli all’Uccelletto (Corona Beans),
Terrine, 1001
Fontina Risotto Fritters, 804
Forcemeat. See also Pate; Terrine
Pierogi, Potato and Cheddar-Filled, 772 Chicken Galantine, 1000-1001,
with Caramelized Onions, Falafel, 776 1005
Beurre Noisette, and Sage, Farmer-Style Omelet, 873 Mushroom, 484
8 4 2 -8 4 3 Farmer-Style Poached Eggs, 869 Pork Tenderloin Roulade, 999
Potstickers, 837 Farmhouse Chicken with Angel Stuffing, Herbed, 605
Spatzle, 834 Biscuits, 564 Frangipane Filling, 1128
Steamed (Shao-Mai), 8 3 8 -8 3 9 Fattoush (Eastern Mediterranean Frangipane Pear Tartlets, 1128
Duxelles Stuffing, 482 Bread Salad), 926 French Dressing, Catalina, 902
Fennel French-Fried Potatoes, 747
Braised, in Butter, 710
e with Chicken Breasts, Grilled or
French-Style Peas, 712
French Toast, 878
Eastern Mediterranean Bread Salad
(Fattoush), 926
Eclairs, 1085
Broiled, 455
Saffron Broth with, Seafood
Fresh Egg Pasta, 819
Fresh Mango Chutney, 453
Poached in a, 570 Fricassee
Chocolate, 1085 Fig-Almond Vinaigrette, 897 Chicken, 612
Edamame, Boiled, 444, 681 Fillet of Mahi Mahi with Pineapple- Veal, 612
Egg(s). See also Custard; Deviled Jicama Salsa, 459 Fried Bread (Puri), 1074
Eggs; Omelet(s); Quiche(s); Fillet of Snapper en Papillote, Fried Eggs, 871
Souffle(s) 5 5 8 -5 5 9 Fried Fish Cakes, 528
Benedict, 870, 871 Fines Herbes, 369 Fried Plantain Chips, 708, 709
Coddled, 866 Fines Herbes Sauce, 500 Fried Rice with Chinese Sausage, 787
Florentine, 871 Fire-Roasted Tomato Vinaigrette, 899 Frijoles a la Charra, 773
French Toast, 878 Fish. See also Anchovy(ies); Salmon; Frijoles Maneados (Creamed Pinto
Fried, 871 Sole; Trout; Tuna Beans), 772
Fried, in Bibimbap, 514 Bass and Scallops en Papillote, 553 Frijoles Puercos Estilo Sinaloa, 773
Hard-Cooked, 866 Frijoles Refritos, 771
Fritters
Corn, 707
Fontina Risotto, 804
Frog’s Legs, in Seafood Ravigote, 930
Fruit(s). See also specific fruits
Salsa, 1130
Sauce, Winter, 505
Fudge Brownies, 1090
Fumet, Fish, 264
g
Gaisburger Marsch (Boiled Beef with
Spatzle and Potatoes), 570
Galangal, Thai Chicken Soup with
Coconut Milk and, 353
Galantine, Chicken, 1 0 0 0-1001,1005
Game
Broth, 334
Jus de Gibier Lie, 293
Marinade, Red Wine, 372
Stock, Brown (Jus de Gibier), 264
Venison Terrine, 1002
Game Hen(s)
Jerked, 459
Mushroom Forcemeat, 484
Rock Cornish, Breast of, with
Mushroom Forcemeat, 483
Ganache, Hard, 1128
Gar am Masala, 368
Garbanzo Beans. See Chickpeas
Garlic
Aioli, 904
Broccoli Rabe with Hot Crushed
Pepper and (Cime di Broccoli
con Aglio e Pepperoncino),
705
Croutons, -Flavored, 563
in Gremolata, 601
in Persillade, 477
in Picada, 612-613
Sauce, Sweet, 524
Toasted, and Broccoli, 681
Vinaigrette, -Lemon, 896
Vinaigrette, Roasted Garlic and
Mustard, 896
Gazpacho Andaluz (Andalucian
Gazpacho), 349
German Potato Salad, 749
Gigot a la Bretonne (Roast Leg of
Lamb with Haricots Blancs),
480
Ginger(ed)
Pickled, 962
Snow Peas and Yellow Squash, 684
-Soy Dipping Sauce, 841
with Sweet Potatoes, Mashed,
738-739
Gla^age, Royal, 557
Glaze(d)
Apricot, 1130
Beets, 682, 683
Carrots, 685
Ganache, Hard, 1128
Soy-Sesame, Grilled Shiitake
Mushrooms with, 6 8 6 -6 8 7
Sweet Potatoes, 738
Gnocchi
Piedmontese, 8 3 2 -8 3 3
di Ricotta, 831
di Semolina Gratinati, 831
Goat, Curried, with Green Papaya
Salad, 608
Goat Cheese
Custard, Warm, 875
Mousse, 953
Mushroom Strudel with, 978
Vegetable Terrine with, 1010
Gorgonzola and Pear Sandwich, 944
Gougeres (Gruyere Cheese Puffs),
1084
Goulash
Beef, 599
Pork, 599
Szekely (Szekely Gulyas), 597
Graham Cracker
Chocolate Decor, 1152
Crust, 1084,1146
Crust, for S’mores, 1152
Ice Cream, 1151
Grandmother’s Bean Curd (Ma Po
Dofu), 526, 527
Grapefruit
Baby Spinach, and Avocado Salad,
918
Salsa, 955
Gratin Dauphinoise (Potatoes au
Gratin), 739
Gravlax, 1011
Gravy
Country, 516, 517
Pan, Roast Chicken with, 482
Pan, Roast Turkey with Chestnut
Stuffing and, 4 8 5 -4 8 6
Greek Salad, 910, 911
Greek-Style Scrambled Eggs, 872
Green Beans
Pan-Steamed Haricots Verts, 684
with Walnuts, 685
Green Chile Stew, New Mexican, 595
Green Curry Paste, 370
Green Curry Sauce, Pork in a, 596
Green Goddess Dressing, 901
Green Lentil Salad (Salade des
Lentilles du Puy), 928
Green Mayonnaise, 903
Green Onion(s)
Beef and Scallions, Skewered, 446
Brown Rice Pilaf with Pecans and,
780 -7 8 1
-Bulgur Pilaf, 7 9 6 -7 9 7
Butter, 300
Oil, 907
Green Papaya Salad, 921
Green Pea Risotto (Risi e Bisi), 783
Green Peppercorns, Noisettes of Pork
with Pineapple and, 504
Greens
Braised, 710
Deviled Eggs with, 866
Gremolata, 601
Grilled Chicken Breasts with Fennel,
455
Grilled Chicken Breasts with Sun-
Dried Tomato and Oregano
Butter, 454
Grilled Lamb Chops with Rosemary,
Artichokes, and Cipollini
Onions, 451
Grilled Meats, Red Wine Marinade
for, 374
Grilled Paillards of Chicken with
Tarragon Butter, 455
Grilled Pork Chops with Sherry
Vinegar Sauce, 450
Grilled Rib Eye Steak, 446
Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms with Soy-
Sesame Glaze, 6 8 6 - 6 8 7
Grilled Shrimp Paste on Sugarcane
(Chao Tom), 977
Grilled Sirloin Steak with Maitre
d’Hotel Butter, 440
Grilled Sirloin Steak with Marchand
de Vin Sauce, 441
Grilled Sirloin Steak with Mushroom
Sauce, 440
Grilled Smoked Iowa Pork Chops,
4 4 8 -4 4 9
Grilled Vegetable Jambalaya, 7 9 0 -7 9 1
Grilled Vegetable Sandwich with
Manchego Cheese, 940, 941
Grilled Vegetables Proven^al-Style, 686
Grits with Corn and Hominy, 794, 795
Gruyere Cheese Puffs (Gougeres),
1084
Guacamole, 958
Guava
Barbecue Sauce, 467
-Curry Vinaigrette, 899
-Glazed Pork Ribs, 467
Gumbo, Chicken and Shrimp,
3 4 8 -3 4 9
Guo Tie (Pan-Fried Dumplings),
840, 841
h
Ham
Broth, 334
in Club, CIA, 934, 935
Croque Monsieur, 937
Salad, 925
Scones, and Cheddar, 1072
Smoked, and Duck Terrine,
1004-1005
Soup, Ham Bone and Collard
Greens, 350
Hanoi Fried Fish with Dill (Cha Ca
Thang Long), 527
Hard-Cooked Eggs, 866
Hard Rolls, 1036
Haricots Blancs, Roast Leg of Lamb
with (Gigot a la Bretonne),
48 0
Haricots Verts, Pan-Steamed, 684
Harissa, 959
Hash, Corned Beef, Poached Eggs
with, 869
Hash Brown Potatoes, 740-741
Herb(s), Herbed. See also specific herbs
Bouquet Garni, 774
Cream Cheese, Cucumber
Sandwich with, 943
Crust, Barbecued Steak with, 445
Fines Herbes, 369
Fines Herbes Sauce, 500
Forcemeat Stuffing, 605
Mayonnaise, 943
Omelet, 873
Pasta, 819
Rub, 982
Sachet d’Epices, 599
Salt, 481
Vinaigrette, -Mustard, 896
Vinaigrette, and Truffle, 900
Hoagie, Philly, 934
Hollandaise Sauce, 298
Lemony, Asparagus with, 6 8 8 - 6 8 9
Homemade Sauerkraut, 593
Hominy, Grits with Corn and, 794, 795
Honey-Poppy Seed-Citrus Dressing,
898
Horseradish and Smoked Salmon
Crust, Salmon Fillet with,
486
Hot Pepper Sauce (Molho
Apimentado), 457
Hot and Sour Soup
Chinese (Suan La Tang), 350
Thai (Tom Yum Kung), 354
Hue-Style Chicken Salad, 924
Hummus bi Tahini, 958
Hunter-Style Scrambled Eggs, 872
Hush Puppies, 836, 837
i
Iceberg, Wedge of, with Thousand
Island Dressing, 909
Ice Cream
Basil, 1143-1144
Chocolate, 1102,1103
Cinnamon, 1135
Coffee, 1102,1103
Coffee, for Profiteroles, 1156,1158
Dulce de Leche, 1156,1158
Graham Cracker, 1151
Profiteroles, -Filled, 1085
Raspberry, 1103
Vanilla, 1102,1103
Vanilla, for Profiteroles, 1156,1157
Ichi Ban Dashi, 267
Indian Grilled Lamb with Fresh
Mango Chutney, 4 5 2 -4 5 3
Insalata di Tonno e Fagioli (Tuna and
Bean Salad), 975
Irish Soda Bread, 1072
Irish Stew, 608
Italian Buttercream, 1125
Italian Meringue, 1024
j
Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790-791
Japanese Salad Dressing, 905
Jap Chae (Stir-Fried Glass Noodles),
822
Jardiniere Vegetables, 705
Jelly Omelet, 873
Jerked Game Hens, 459
Jerk Seasoning, 459
Jicama
and Corn Salad, 921
-Pineapple Salsa, 459
Salad, 921
Johnny Cakes, 1074
Julienne Vegetables, 706
Jus, Standing Rib Roast au, 464
Jus Lie
d’Agneau (Lamb), 293
de Canard (Duck), 293
de Gibier (Game), 293
Pork Roast with, 465
de Veau (Veal), 293
de Volaille (Chicken), 293
k
Kachumber (Onion and Cucumber
Salad), 919
Kalbi Jjim (Korean Braised Short
Ribs), 5 8 2 -5 8 3
Kale, Braised, 710
Kao Paigu (Lacquer-Roasted Pork
Ribs), 476
Kasha with Spicy Maple Pecans, 799
Kebabs. See also Skewers, Skewered
Fish, 462
Lamb, with Pimiento Butter,
Broiled, 447
Ketchup, Mango, Tofu Cakes with
Portobello Mushrooms and,
971
Key Lime Tart, 1146-1147
Kombu, in Ichi Ban Dashi, 266
Korean Braised Short Ribs (Kalbi
Jjim), 5 8 2 -5 8 3
1
Lacquer-Roasted Pork Ribs (Kao
Paigu), 476
Lamb, 227
Broth, 334
in Cassoulet, 594
and Chicken Stew, Couscous with,
609
Chops, Grilled, with Rosemary,
Artichokes, and Cipollini
Onions, 451
Indian Grilled, with Fresh Mango
Chutney, 4 5 2 -4 5 3
Jus d’Agneau Lie, 293
RECIPE IN D E X 1195
 Lamb, continued
Kebabs with Pimiento Butter,
Broiled, 447
Khorma, 607
Leg of, Roast, Boulangere, 476
Leg of, Roast, with Haricots Blancs
(Gigot a la Bretonne), 480
Leg of, Roast, with Mint Sauce, 481
Leg of, Stuffed, Portuguese, 605
Marinade, 373
Navarin, 606
Patties, Pakistani-Style, 454
Rack of, Roast, Persille, 477
Shanks, Braised, 604
Shoulder of, Roasted, and Couscous
(Mechoui), 4 7 8 -4 7 9
Stew, Irish, 608
Stock, Brown, 264
Lasagna
Asparagus and White Bean, 829
Bolognese, Classic, with Ragu and
Bechamel (Lasagna al Forno),
826, 827
di Carnevale Napolitana, 8 2 5 -8 2 6
Latin Citrus Marinade (Mojo), 373
Latkes, Potato, 743
Lean Dough, Basic, 1033
Leek and Tomato Quiche, 876
Lemon(s)
Asparagus with Lemony
Hollandaise, 6 8 8 - 6 8 9
Cumberland Sauce, 955
Curd, 1145
Meringue Pie, 1127
Preserved, 611
Souffle Tart with Basil Ice Cream
and Blueberry Compote,
1142-1145
Vinaigrette, -Garlic, 896
Vinaigrette, -Parsley, 896
Lentil Salad, Green (Salade des
Lentilles du Puy), 928
Lentil Soup, Puree of, 344
Lima Beans, Roman-Style, 774
Lime
-Cilantro Soy Sauce, 956
Key Lime Tart, 1146-1147
Lobster
Bisque (Bisque de Homard), 348
Broiled Stuffed, 4 6 0 -4 6 1
New England Shore Dinner,
560 -5 6 1
Salad with Beets, Mangos,
Avocados, and Orange Oil,
983
Lo Han (Steamed Long-Grain Rice),
785
Lorette Potatoes, 748
Lyonnaise Potatoes, 739
m for Vegetable Terrine with Goat
Macadamia Coconut Shrimp, 966
Macedoine of Vegetables, 706
Madeira Sauce, 463
Mahi Mahi, Fillet of, with Pineapple-
Jicama Salsa, 459
Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 300
Maltaise Sauce, 298
Malt Vinegar and Peanut Oil Dressing,
900
Mamuang Kao Nieo (Thai Sticky Rice
with Mangos), 787
Manchego Cheese, Grilled Vegetable
Sandwich with, 940, 941
Mango(s)
Chutney, Fresh, 453
Chutney, Spicy, 961
Ketchup, Tofu Cakes with
Portobello Mushrooms and,
971
1196 REC IPE IN D E X
Lobster Salad with Beets, Avocado,
Orange Oil and, 983
and Passion-Poached Pineapple
with Coconut Flan and
Cilantro Sorbet, 1148-1150
Sticky Rice, Thai, with (Mamuang
Kao Nieo), 787
Manhattan-Style Clam Chowder, 344
Maple Pecans, Spicy, Kasha with, 799
Ma Po Dofu (Grandmothers Tofu),
527
Marchand de Vin Sauce, 441
Margherita Pizza, 1037
Mar i Muntanya (Chicken and Prawn
Ragout), 612-613
Marinade(s)
Asian-Style, 372
Barbecue, 372
for Beef Satay with Peanut Sauce,
9 8 2 -9 8 3
for Beef and Scallions, Skewered,
446
for Bibimbap, 514
for Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7
for Chicken Breast, Barbecued,
with Black Bean Sauce, 458
for Chicken Paillards, Grilled, with
Tarragon Butter, 455
for Chicken, Pan-Smoked, 483
for Chicken, Tangerine-Flavored,
Crispy, 5 2 4 -5 2 5
Citrus, Latin (Mojo), 373
Eggplant Filling, Marinated, 939
Fish, 372
for Fish Kebabs, 462
Lamb, 373
for Lamb Chops, Grilled, with
Rosemary, Artichokes, and
Cipollini Onions, 451
for Lamb, Indian Grilled, with Fresh
Mango Chutney, 4 5 2 -4 5 3
for Lamb Khorma, 607
Peppers, Marinated Roasted, 694,
695
for Pork, Cantonese Roast (Char
Siu), 466
for Pork Ribs, Guava-Glazed, 467
for Pork Ribs, Lacquer-Roasted (Kao
Paigu), 476
for Pork and Veal Skewers
(Raznijci), 447
for Pork Vindaloo, 596
Red Wine Game, 372
Red Wine, for Grilled Meats, 374
for Rib Eye Steak, Grilled, 446
for Sauerbraten, 587
for Shrimp, Coconut Macadamia,
966
Teriyaki, 374
for Teriyaki, Beef, 445
Vegetables, Marinated Grilled, 686
Cheese, 1010
Marinated Eggplant Filling, 939
Marinated Grilled Vegetables, 686
Marinated Roasted Peppers, 694, 695
Marmalade, Roasted Red Pepper, 960
Marsala Sauce, 463, 504
Marshmallow, 1152
Mashed Sweet Potatoes with Ginger,
738-739
Mayonnaise, 903
Ai'oli, 904
Anchovy-Caper, 903
for Cole Slaw, 470
Curry, Apple Sandwich with, 943
Green, 903
Herb, Watercress Sandwich with,
943
Remoulade Sauce, 520
Tartar Sauce, 903
Meat. See also specific meats
Brine, 999
and Cheese Omelet, 873
in Chefs Salad, 909
in Philly Hoagie, 934
Sauce, Bolognese (Ragu Bolognese),
296
Sauce, Pork Rolls and Sausage
in, Braised, with Rigatoni
(Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e
Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1
Spit-Roasted, Seasoning Mix for,
371
Stock, and Poultry (Brodo), 266
Mechoui (Roasted Shoulder of Lamb
and Couscous), 4 7 8 -4 7 9
Medium-Cooked Eggs, 866
Melon Salad, Summer, with
Prosciutto, 919
Meringue
Common, 1024
Italian, 1024
Lemon Meringue Pie, 1127
Swiss, 1024
Middle Eastern Chickpeas, 774
Milanese Sauce, 519
Milk Chocolate Cinnamon Sticks, 1136
Millet and Cauliflower Puree, 796
Minestrone alia Emiliana (Vegetable
Soup, Emilia-Romagna Style),
357
Mint
Barley Salad with Cucumber and,
800, 801
Sauce (Paloise), 297
Sauce, Roast Leg of Lamb with, 481
and Yogurt Chutney, 462
Mirlitons, Shrimp-Stuffed, 696
Miso Soup, 353
Mixed Bean Salad, 929
Mixed Grain Pilaf, 796
Mixed Green Salad, 907
Mixed Grill, Brazilian, 4 5 6 -4 5 7
Mizeria Klasyczna (Classic Polish
Cucumber Salad), 920
Mojo (Latin Citrus Marinade), 373
Mole Negro, 5 8 8 -5 8 9
Molho Apimentado (Hot Pepper
Sauce), 457
Monkfish, in Vatapa, 512
Mornay Sauce, 295
Poached Eggs, 869
Scrambled Eggs Gratine, 872
Moroccan Carrot Salad, 920
Moules a la Mariniere (Mussels with
White Wine and Shallots),
974, 975
Mousse
Blue Cheese, 953
Chocolate, 1104
Goat Cheese, 953
Raspberry, 1104-1105
Saffron, Poached Trout with,
5 5 4 -5 5 5
Smoked Salmon, 953
Mousseline
Chicken, 996
Flounder, 993
Pork, 999
Salmon, 555, 993
Sauce, 298
Sole, 555
Trout and Saffron, 555
Mozzarella
in Cracked Wheat and Tomato
Salad, 8 02, 803
in Eggplant Parmesan, 6 9 6 -6 9 7
Lasagna di Carnevale Napolitana,
8 2 5 -8 2 6
and Tomato Salad, 928
Mu Chae (Sliced Daikon Salad), 922
Mudslide Cookies, 1089
Muffin(s)
Basic Recipe, 1078
Blueberry, 1078,1080
Bran, 1078
Corn, 1079
Cranberry-Orange, 1078
Mushroom(s)
in Bean Curd, Grandmother’s (Ma
Po Dofu), 526,527
Beets, and Baby Greens with
Robiola Cheese and Walnuts,
916, 917
Duxelles Stuffing, Chicken Legs
with, 482
Forcemeat, 484
in Forcemeat Stuffing, Herbed, 605
in Glass Noodles, Stir-Fried (Jap
Chae), 822
Omelet Marcel, 873
Poached Eggs with, 869
Portobello, Tofu Cakes with Mango
Ketchup and, 971
Quesadillas with Two Salsas, 700
Risotto, Wild Mushroom, 783
in Risotto, Vegetarian, 784
Sauce, 440
Sauce, Bercy, 830
Sausage, 598
Shiitake, Grilled, with Soy-Sesame
Glaze, 6 8 6 -6 8 7
Strudel with Goat Cheese, 978
Supreme Sauce, 294
in Udon Noodle Pot, 566
Vegetable Sandwich, Grilled, with
Manchego Cheese, 940
Mussels
in Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3
in New England Shore Dinner,
560, 561
Paella Valenciana, 788, 789
Ravigote, Seafood, 930
Risotto with, 784
with White Wine and Shallots
(Moules a la Mariniere), 975
Mustard
Barbecue Sauce (North Carolina
Eastern Low Country Sauce),
4 69
Spicy, 960
Vinaigrette, -Herb, 896
Vinaigrette, and Roasted Garlic, 896
n
Naan Bread, 1038,1039
New England Shore Dinner, 560, 561
New England-Style Clam Chowder,
340
New Mexican Green Chile Stew, 595
Niban Dashi, 266
Noisettes of Pork with Green
Peppercorns and Pineapple,
504
Noisettes of Pork with Red Onion
Confit, 506
Noodle(s)
Glass, Stir-Fried (Jap Chae), 822
Pad Thai, 8 2 2 -8 2 3
Soup, Beef (Pho Bo), 569
Summer Squash, 704
Tempeh Cashew, 824, 825
Udon Noodle Pot, 566
North Carolina Eastern Low Country
Sauce (Mustard Barbecue
Sauce), 469
North Carolina Piedmont Sauce, 469
North Carolina Western Barbecue
Sauce, 469
Nut-Banana Bread, 1079,1080
Nut Tuile Cookies, 1090
o
Oatmeal Cookies, -Raisin, 1089
P
Pacific Seafood Chowder, 342
Eclairs, Chocolate, 1085
Gougeres (Gruyere Cheese Puffs),
Hot Pepper Sauce (Molho
Apimentado), 457
Oatmeal Pancakes, 1073 Pad Thai, 8 2 2 -8 2 3 1084 Pepper(s). See Bell Peppers; Chiles;
Octopus “Fairground Style” (Pulpo a Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Phyllo Tubes, 1137 Red Pepper(s)
Feira), 976 Pakistani-Style Lamb Patties, 454 Profiteroles, 1085 Persillade, 477
Oil(s) Paloise Sauce (M int), 297 Profiteroles (Plated Dessert), Pescado Frito, 9 7 2 -9 7 3
Basil, 906 Pancakes. See also Crepes 1156-1160 Pescado Veracruzana, 562
Green Onion, 907 Amaranth, 803 Profiteroles, Ice Cream-Filled, 1085 Pesto, 299
Orange, 907 Banana, 1073 Strudel, Mushroom, with Goat Pesto Vinaigrette, 901
Paprika, 907 Blueberry, 1073 Cheese, 978 Philly Hoagie, 934
Old-Fashioned Salt Cod Cakes, 521 Buttermilk, 1073 Pastry Cream, 1098 Pho Bo (Beef Noodle Soup), 569
Olives Chocolate Chip, 1073 Chocolate, 1098 Phyllo
in Greek Salad, 910, 911 Oatmeal, 1073 for Souffles, 1099 Strudel, Mushroom, with Goat
Provencal Sauce, 501 Potato, 742, 743 Pastry Dough Cheese, 978
Tapenade, 959 Potato Latkes, 743 Pate a Choux, 1084 Tubes, 1137
Omelet(s) Spinach, 707 Pate a Choux, Chocolate, 1160 Picada, 612-613
Cheddar, Soufleed, 874 Zucchini, with Tzatziki, 6 8 8 Pate Brisee, 701 Picadillo Oaxaqueno, Chiles Rellenos
Cheese, 873 Pan-Fried Breaded Pork Cutlets, 518 Pie (3-2-1), Basic, 1070 con, 5 2 8 -5 2 9
Cheese and Vegetable, 873 Pan-Fried Brook Trout with Bacon, Puff Pastry, 1076-1077 Piccata di Vitello alia Milanese (Veal
Egg White, Plain Rolled, 873 522 Puff Pastry, Blitz, 1077 Piccata with Milanese
Farmer-Style, 873 Pan-Fried Dumplings (Guo Tie), Tartlet Shells, 1144 Sauce), 519
Florentine, 873 840, 841 Pate Pickle(d)
Herb, 873 Pan-Fried Veal Cutlets, 518 de Campagne (Country-Style Charcutiere Sauce, 508
Jelly, 873 Pan-Fried Zucchini, 707 Terrine), 998 Eggs, 868
Marcel, 873 Panini, Eggplant and Prosciutto, 938, Chicken Liver, 1004,1005 Eggs, Red, 868
Meat and Cheese, 873 939 en Croute, Seafood, 1008-1 0 0 9 Ginger, 962
Opera, 873 Pan-Smoked Chicken, 483 Dough, 1 0 0 6-1007 Red Onions, 962
Plain Rolled, 8 7 2 -8 7 3 Pan-Steamed Carrots, 684 Dough, Saffron, 1006 Sweet, 472
Potato (Tortilla Espanola), 979 Pan-Steamed Haricots Verts, 684 Grand-Mere, 994 Pico de Gallo, 953
Seafood, 873 Panzanella, 927 Spice, 1011 Pie(s). See also Quiche(s); Tart(s)
Shellfish, 873 Papaya Pate a Choux, 1084 Apple, 1125
Spanish, 873 -Black Bean Salsa, 955 Chocolate, 1160 Cherry, 1126
Tomato, 873 Green Papaya Salad, 921 Pate Brisee, 701 Cranberry-Pecan, 1126
Western, 873 en Papillote Paupiettes Dough, Basic (3-2-1), 1070
for Wonton Soup, 354 -3 5 5 Bass and Scallops, 553 Sole, Veronique, Poached, 557 Lemon Meringue, 1127
1-2-3 Cookie Dough, 1086 Snapper, Fillet of, 5 5 8 -5 5 9 Trout, Poached, with Vin Blanc Pecan,1126
Onion(s) Paprika Oil, 907 Sauce, 556 Pork and Pepper (Empanada
Cipollini, Grilled Lamb Chops Parmesan Pea(s) Gallega de Cerdo), 984
with Rosemary, Artichokes Eggplant, 6 9 6 -6 9 7 French-Style, 712 Pumpkin, 1127
and, 451 Orecchiette with Italian Sausage, Risotto, Green Pea (Risi e Bisi), 783 Pierogi, Potato and Cheddar-Filled,
and Cucumber Salad (Kachumber), Broccoli Rabe and, 820, 821 Snow Peas and Yellow Squash, with Caramelized Onions,
919 Polenta with, 792, 793 Gingered, 684 Beurre Noisette, and Sage,
Deep-Fried, 581 Risotto, 783 Split Pea Soup, Puree of, 345 8 4 2 -8 4 3
Deep-Fried, Baked Potatoes with, Parsley Split Pea Soup, Yellow, Puree of, 345 Pilaf. See also Rice Pilaf
735 in Gremolata, 601 Peanut Dressing, 902 Bulgur-Green Onion, 7 9 6 -7 9 7
Quiche, Caramelized, 876 -Lemon Vinaigrette, 8 9 6 Peanut Oil and Malt Vinegar Dressing, Mixed Grain, 796
Red, Confit, Noisettes of Pork Persillade, 477 900 Pearl Barley, 780
with, 506 Potatoes, Boiled, 736, 737 Peanut Sauce Wheat Berry, 780
Red, Pickled, 962 Passion and Mango-Poached Beef Satay with, 9 8 2 -9 8 3 Wild Rice, 780
Relish, Curried, 961 Pineapple with Coconut Spicy, 4 4 2 -4 4 3 Pimiento Butter, 300
Soup, 335 Flan and Cilantro Sorbet, Pear(s) Pineapple
Soup Gratinee, 335 1148-1150 Blackberry and Port-Poached, with -Jicama Salsa, 459
Soup, White, 335 Pasta. See also Lasagna; Noodle(s) Ricotta Cream and Sable Mango and Passion-Poached, with
Sweet and Sour, Open-Faced Turkey Basic Boiled, 819 Cookies, 1139-1141 Coconut Flan and Cilantro
Sandwich with, 937 alia Carbonara, 821 Frangipane Tartlets, 1128 Sorbet, 1148-1150
Open-Faced Turkey Sandwich with Orecchiette with Italian Sausage, and Gorgonzola Sandwich, 944 Noisettes of Pork with Green
Sweet and Sour Onions, 937 Broccoli Rabe, and Parmesan, Poached, 1128 Peppercorns and, 504
Orange(s) 820, 821 Pearl Barley Pilaf, 780 Pinto Beans
Chayote Salad with (Salada de Ravioli Bercy, 830 Pecan(s) Creamed (Frijoles Maneados), 772
Xuxu), 919 Rigatoni, Braised Pork Rolls and Brown Rice Pilaf with Green Frijoles Puercos Estilo Sinaloa, 773
-Cranberry Compote, 689 Sausage in Meat Sauce with Onions and, 7 8 0 -7 8 1 Pistachios, Duck Terrine with Dried
-Cranberry Muffins, 1078 (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Carrots, 684 Cherries and, 1002-1003
Creme Chantilly, -Scented, 1138 Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1 Diamonds, 1088 Pita Bread, 1037
Cumberland Sauce, 955 Salad with Pesto Vinaigrette, 925 Pie, 1126 Pizza
Maltaise Sauce, 298 Pasta Dough, Fresh Egg, 819 Pie, Cranberry-, 1126 Crust, Semolina, 1037
Oil, 907 Beet, 819 Spicy Maple, Kasha with, 799 Margherita, 1037
Wheat Berry Salad with Cherries, Black Pepper, 819 Wheat Berry Salad with Oranges, Spinach, 1037
Pecans and, 798, 799 Buckwheat, 819 Cherries and, 798, 799 Plain Rolled Omelet, 8 7 2 -8 7 3
Orecchiette with Italian Sausage, Carrot, 819 Peperoni Arrostiti (Roasted Peppers), Plantain
Broccoli Rabe, and Parmesan, Citrus, 819 928 Chips, Fried, 708, 709
820, 821 Curried, 819 Pepper Tostones, 708
Oregano Herbed, 819 Black Peppercorn Dressing, Plated Desserts
Sour Cream, Tomato Sandwich Pumpkin, 819 Creamy, 904 Blackberry and Port-Poached Pears
with, 944 Red Pepper, 819 Black Pepper Pasta, 819 with Ricotta Cream and Sable
and Sun-Dried Tomato Butter, 300 Saffron, 819 Five-Spice Powder, Chinese, 368 Cookies, 1139-1141
Osso Buco Milanese, 6 0 0 -6 0 1 Spinach, 819 Green Peppercorns, Noisettes of Date Spice Cake, Warm, with
Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, 6 9 2 -6 9 3 Tomato, 819 Pork with Pineapple and, 504 Butterscotch Sauce and
Oxtails, Braised, 581 Whole Wheat, 819 Hot Crushed, Broccoli Rabe, with Cinnamon Ice Cream,
Oysters, in Fishermans Platter, 520 Pastry(ies). See also Pastry Dough; Garlic and (Cime di Broccoli 1134-1138
Pie(s); Quiche(s); Tart(s) con Aglio e Pepperoncino), Key Lime Tart, 1146-1147
Eclairs, 1085 705

RECIPE IN DEX 1197

Plated Desserts, continued
Lemon Souffle Tart with Basil
Ice Cream and Blueberry
Compote, 1142-1145
Mango and Passion-Poached
Pineapple with Coconut
Flan and Cilantro Sorbet,
1148-1150
Profiteroles, 1156-1160
S’mores, 1151-1155
Poached Chicken Breast with Tarragon
Sauce, 563
Poached Eggs. See Egg(s), Poached
Poached Pears, 1128
Poached Sea Bass with Clams, Bacon,
and Peppers, 553
Poached Seafood in a Saffron Broth
with Fennel, 570
Poached Sole Paupiettes Veronique,
557
Poached Sole with Saffron Mousse,
555
Poached Sole with Vegetable Julienne
and Vin Blanc Sauce, 558
Poached Trout Paupiettes with Vin
Blanc Sauce, 556
Poached Trout with Saffron Mousse,
554 -5 5 5
Poblanos Rellenos, 698, 699
Polenta
Basic, 792
with Parmesan, 792, 793
Polish Cucumber Salad, Classic
(Mizeria Klasyczna), 920
Polish Stuffed Cabbage, 6 0 2 -6 0 3
Poppy Seed-Honey-Citrus Dressing,
898
Pork. See also Bacon; Ham; Sausage
Barbecue, Carolina, 4 6 8 -4 6 9
Bolognese Meat Sauce (Ragu
Bolognese), 296
Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7
Broth, Smoked, 334
Butt with Coleslaw, 470 -4 7 1
in Cabbage, Stuffed, Polish,
6 0 2 -6 0 3
in Cassoulet, 594
Chops, Baked Stuffed, 465
Chops, Grilled or Broiled, with
Sherry Vinegar Sauce, 450
Chops, Grilled Smoked Iowa,
4 4 8 -4 4 9
in Choucroute, 5 9 2-593, 593
Cutlet with Sauce Robert, 508
Cutlets, Pan-Fried Breaded, 518
Dim Sum, 837
Dumplings, Pan-Fried (Guo Tie),
840, 841
Dumplings, Steamed (Shao-Mai),
8 3 8 -8 3 9
Forcemeat Stuffing, Herbed, 605
Goulash, 599
Green Chile Stew, New Mexican,
595
in a Green Curry Sauce, 596
Medallions with Cabbage Salad,
Warm, 506
Medallions of, Sauteed, with
Winter Fruit Sauce, 505
Mousseline, 999
Noisettes of, with Green
Peppercorns and Pineapple,
504
Noisettes of, with Red Onion
Confit, 506
Pate Grand-Mere, 994
and Pepper Pie (Empanada Gallega
de Cerdo), 984
Picadillo Oaxaqueno, Chiles
Rellenos con, 5 2 8 -5 2 9
Ribs, Guava-Glazed, 467
RE CIPE IN DEX
Ribs, Lacquer-Roasted (Kao Paigu), Potstickers, 837 Ravioli Bercy, 830
476 Poule au Pot (Chicken with Raznjici (Pork and Veal Skewers), 447
Ribs, St. Louis-Style, 475 Vegetables), 565 Red Beans and Boiled Rice, 777
Roast, Cantonese (Char Siu), 466 Poultry Red Cabbage, Braised, 711
Roast with Jus Lie, 465 and Meat Stock (Brodo), 266 Red Curry Paste, 370
Rolls and Sausage, Braised, in Meat Spit-Roasted, Seasoning Mix for, Red Onion(s)
Sauce with Rigatoni (Braciole 371 Confit, Noisettes of Pork with, 506
di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni), Pound Cake, 1081 Pickled, 962
5 9 0 -5 9 1 Prawn and Chicken Ragout (Mar i Red Pepper(s)
Scaloppine with Tomato Sauce, 503 Muntanya), 6 12-613 Artichoke and Pepper Salad, 750
Skewers, and Veal (Raznjici), 447 Preserved Lemons, 611 Coulis, 299
in Spring Rolls, 980 Profiteroles, 1085 Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790,
Stock, Brown, 264 Ice Cream-Filled, 1085 791
Szekely Goulash (Szekely Gulyas), Plated Dessert, 1156-1160 Marinated Roasted, 695
597 Prosciutto Pasta, 819
Tenderloin Roulade, 999 and Eggplant Panini, 938, 939 Roasted (Peperoni Arrostiti), 928
Terrine, Country-Style (Pate de Melon Salad with, Summer, 919 Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade,
Campagne), 998 Proven^al(-Style) 960
Tinga Poblano, 530 Beef Tournedos, 501 Red Pickled Eggs, 868
Vindaloo, 596 Chicken, 501 Red Snapper. See Snapper
Port and Blackberry-Poached Pears Sauce, 501 Red Wine Marinade
with Ricotta Cream and Sable Vegetables, Grilled, 686 Game, 372
Cookies, 1139-1141 Pudding, Bread and Butter, 1106 for Grilled Meats, 374
Portobello Mushrooms, Tofu Cakes Puff Pastry Lamb, 372
with Mango Ketchup and, in Beef Wellington, 463 for Sauerbraten, 587
971 Dough, 1076-1077 Red Wine Sauce
Portuguese Stuffed Leg of Lamb, 605 Dough, Blitz, 1077 Burgundy, Beef Rouladen in,
Potage Garbure, 346 Pulpo a Feira (Octopus “Fairground 5 8 4 -5 8 5
Potato(es) Style”), 976 Marchand de Vin, 441
Anna, 744 Pumpkin Milanese, 519
Baked, with Deep-Fried Onions, Bread, 1080,1081 Red Wine Vinaigrette, 896
735 Pasta, 819 and Walnut Oil, 901
Beef, Boiled, with Spatzle and Pie, 1127 Relish
(Gaisburger Marsch), 570 Puree. See also Coulis Cranberry, 961
Berny, 747 Butternut Squash, 691 Onion, Curried, 961
Chateau, 740 Millet and Cauliflower, 796 Remoulade Sauce, 520
in Choucroute, 5 9 2 -5 9 3 , 593 Puree Soup(s) Reuben Sandwich, 942
Corned Beef, Hash, Poached Eggs Bean, Senate, 346 Tempeh, 942
with, 869 of Black Bean, Caribbean-Style, 345 Rib Eye Steak, Grilled, 446
Corned Beef Hash with Winter of Lentil, 344 Rib Roast au Jus, Standing, 464
Vegetables, 5 6 6 -5 6 7 Potage Garbure, 346 Ribs, Pork
Croquette, 748 of Split Pea, 345 Guava-Glazed, 467
Delmonico, 740 of Split Pea, Yellow, 345 Lacquer-Roasted (Kao Paigu), 476
Duchesse, 737 Vichyssoise, 347 St. Louis-Style, 475
French-Fried, 747 Puri (Fried Bread), 1074 Rice. See also Rice Pilaf; Risotto; Wild
Gnocchi Piedmontese, 8 3 2 -8 3 3 Rice
au Gratin (Gratin Dauphinoise), Annatto, 781
739
in Green Chile Stew, New Mexican,
q
Qinchao Shanghai Baicai (Stir-Fried
Arroz Blanco, 781
Arroz Brasileiro, 782
595 Shanghai Bok Choy), Arroz Mexicano, 782
Hash Brown, 740-741 70 2 -7 0 3 Basic Boiled, 785
Latkes, 743 Quatre Epices, 369 and Beans, 776
in Leg of Lamb Boulangere, Roast, Quesadillas, Mushroom, with Two Chicken Soup (Canja), 336
476 Salsas, 700 Coconut, 7 8 2 -7 8 3
Lorette, 748 Quiche(s) Congee, 795
Lyonnaise, 739 Broccoli and Cheddar, 876 Croquettes, 792
Macaire, 744 Lorraine, 876 Fried, with Chinese Sausage, 787
in New England Shore Dinner, Onion, Caramelized, 876 in Gumbo, Chicken and Shrimp,
560, 561 Smoked Salmon and Dill, 876 3 4 8 -3 4 9
Omelet (Tortilla Espanola), 979 Spinach, 876 Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable,
Pancakes, 742, 743 Tomato and Leek, 876 790-791
Parsley, Boiled, 736, 737 Quick Bread. See Bread(s), Quick Paella Valenciana, 788, 789
Pierogi, and Cheddar-Filled, with Red Beans and Boiled Rice, 777
Caramelized Onions, Beurre
Noisette, and Sage, 8 4 2 -8 4 3
Potage Garbure, 346
r
Ragout, Chicken and Prawn (Mar i
Saffron, 788
Salad, Curried, 930
Steamed Long-Grain (Lo Han),
Roasted Tuscan-Style, 738 Muntanya), 6 12-613 444, 785
Rosti, 744-745 Ragu Bolognese (Bolognese Sauce), Sticky, Thai, with Mangos
Salad, 926 296 (Mamuang Kao Nieo), 787
Salad, European-Style, 926 Raisin Sushi, 785
Salad, German, 749 Bread with Cinnamon Swirl, 1042, Tomato Soup with, Cream of, 339
in Salt Cod Cakes, Old-Fashioned, 1043 Rice Pilaf, 780
521 -Oatmeal Cookies, 1089 Brown, with Pecans and Green
Souffied, 748 Scones, 1072 Onions, 7 8 0 -7 8 1
in Tinga Poblano, 530 Ranch-Style Dressing, 905 Converted White, 780
Tortilla de Papas, 750 Raspberry Short-Grain Brown, 781
Tortilla Espanola (Potato Omelet), Coulis, 1129 Short-Grain White (Valencia), 780
979 Ice Cream, 1103 Wild Rice, 780
Vichyssoise, 347 Mousse, 1104-1105 Ricotta
Whipped, 517, 735 Ratatouille, 708 Cream, 1140
Pot Roast, Yankee, 586 Ravigote, Seafood, 930 Gnocchi di, 831
 in Lasagna di Carnevale Napolitana, Rice, 788 Tuna Carpaccio (Crudo di Tonno Watercress, with Herb Mayonnaise,
8 2 5 -8 2 6 and Trout Mousseline, 555 alia Battuta), 964, 965 943
Rigatoni, Braised Pork Rolls and Saigon Crepes, 804 Waldorf, 918 Satay
Sausage in Meat Sauce with St. Louis-Style Ribs, 475 Watercress and Apple, Sherried, 917 Beef, with Peanut Sauce, 9 8 2 -9 8 3
(Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Salad(s) Wheat Berry, with Oranges, Cherries, Seitan, 4 4 2 -4 4 3
Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1 Artichoke and Pepper, 750 and Pecans, 798,7 9 9 Sauce(s). See also Butter(s); Dessert
Risi e Bisi (Green Pea Risotto), 783 Barley, with Cucumber and Mint, Salada de Xuxu (Chayote Salad with Sauce; Dipping Sauce; Gravy;
Risotto, 783 800, 801 Oranges), 919 Salsa
with Asparagus, 783 Bean, Mixed, 929 Salad Dressing. See also Mayonnaise; Apple Cider, 448
Cakes, Corn and Asiago Cheese, Bean Curd, Smoked, and Celery, Oil(s); Vinaigrette Barbecue. See Barbecue Sauce
805 908 Black Peppercorn, Creamy, 904 Bearnaise, 297
Fritters, Fontina, 804 Black-Eyed Pea, Warm, 929 Blue Cheese, 904 Bechamel, 295
Green Pea (Risi e Bisi), 783 Bread, Eastern Mediterranean in Caesar Salad, 908 Bigarade, Roast Duckling with,
alia Milanese, 783 (Fattoush), 926 Caesar-Style, 902 4 8 4 -4 8 5
with Mussels, 784 Bulgur, Sweet and Spicy, 800 Catalina French, 902 Black Bean, 458
Parmesan, 783 Cabbage, Warm, 506 Cucumber, 903 Black Ink, Baby Squid in (Txipirones
Vegetarian, 784 Caesar, 908 Green Goddess, 901 Saltsa Beltzean), 976
Wild Mushroom, 783 Carrot, Moroccan, 920 Honey-Poppy Seed-Citrus, 898 Burgundy, Beef Rouladen in,
Roast Chicken with Pan Gravy, 482 Celeriac and Tart Apple, 918 Japanese, 905 5 8 4 -5 8 5
Roast Duckling with Sauce Bigarade, Chayote, with Oranges (Salada de Peanut, 902 Charcutiere, 508
4 8 4 -4 8 5 Xuxu), 919 Peanut Oil and Malt Vinegar, 900 Cheddar Cheese, 295
Roasted Carrots, 695 Chefs, 909 Ranch-Style, 905 Choron, 297
Roasted Garlic and Mustard Chicken, 923 Russian, 942 Cream, 295
Vinaigrette, 896 Chicken, Hue-Style, 924 Thousand Island, 906 Cumberland, 955
Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade, 960 Cobb, 912, 913 Salade de Roquefort, Noix, et Endives Demi-Glace, 293
Roasted Peppers (Peperoni Arrostiti), Coleslaw, 920 (Endive Salad with Roquefort Dill, 447
928 Corn and Jicama, 921 and Walnuts), 910-911 Espagnole, 294
Roasted Shoulder of Lamb and Cracked Wheat and Tomato, 802, Salade des Lentilles du Puy (Green Fines Herbes, 500
Couscous (Mechoui), 803 Lentil Salad), 928 Fruit, Winter, 505
4 7 8 -4 7 9 Cucumber, 9 2 2 -9 2 3 Salad Rolls, Vietnamese, 981 Garlic, Sweet, 524
Roasted Tuscan-Style Potatoes, 738 Cucumber, Polish, Classic (Mizeria Salmon Green Curry, Pork in, 596
Roasted Vegetable Stock, 265 Klasyczna), 920 Ancho-Crusted, with Yellow Pepper Hollandaise, 298
Roast Leg of Lamb Boulangere, 476 Cucumber and Wakame Sauce, 510-511 Hollandaise, Lemony, Asparagus
Roast Leg of Lamb with Haricots (Sunonomo), 922 Fillet with Smoked Salmon and with, 6 8 8 -6 8 9
Blancs (Gigot a la Bretonne), Cucumber, Yogurt, 923 Horseradish Crust, 4 8 6 Hot Pepper (Molho Apimentado),
480 Daikon, Sliced (Mu Chae), 922 Gravlax, 1011 457
Roast Leg of Lamb with Mint Sauce, Egg, 925 Mousseline, 555 Jus Lie. See Jus Lie
481 Endive, with Roquefort and Smoked Madeira, 463
Roast Rack of Lamb Persille, 477 Walnuts (Salade de and Horseradish Crust, Salmon Maltaise, 298
Roast Turkey with Pan Gravy and Roquefort, Noix, et Endives), Fillet with, 486 Marchand de Vin, 441
Chestnut Stuffing, 4 8 5 - 4 8 6 910-911 Mousse, 953 Marsala, 463, 504
Robert Sauce, 508 Greek, 910, 911 Platter, 963 Meat, Bolognese (Ragu Bolognese),
Robiola Cheese, Mushrooms, Beets, Green, Mixed, 907 Poached Eggs with, 871 296
and Baby Greens with Ham, 925 Quiche, and Dill, 876 Meat, Braised Pork Rolls and
Walnuts and, 916, 917 Iceberg, Wedge of, with Thousand Terrine, and Seafood, 993 Sausage in, with Rigatoni
Rock Cornish Game Hen, Breast of, Island Dressing, 909 Salsa (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e
with Mushroom Forcemeat, Jicama, 921 Cruda, 965 Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1
4 8 3 -4 8 4 Lentil, Green (Salade des Lentilles Fruit, 1130 Milanese, 519
Rolls du Puy), 928 Grapefruit, 955 Mint (Paloise), 297
Cottage Dill, 1039 Lobster, with Beets, Mangos, Papaya-Black Bean, 955 Mint, Roast Leg of Lamb with, 481
Hard, 1036 Avocados, and Orange Oil, Pico de Gallo, 953 Mole Negro, 5 8 8 -5 8 9
Soft Dinner, 1045 983 Pineapple-Jicama, 459 Mornay, 295
Romaine, Braised, 711 Melon, Summer, with Prosciutto, Roja, 954 Mousseline, 298
Roman-Style Lima Beans, 774 919 Summer Squash, 699 Mushroom, 440
Roquefort, Endive Salad with Walnuts Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby Verde Asada, 954 Mushroom Bercy, 830
and (Salade de Roquefort, Greens with Robiola Cheese Verde Cruda, 954 Peanut, Beef Satay with, 9 8 2 -9 8 3
Noix, et Endives), 910-911 and Walnuts, 916, 917 Salt Cod Cakes, Old-Fashioned, 521 Peanut, Spicy, 4 4 2 -4 4 3
Rosemary, Grilled Lamb Chops with Onion and Cucumber Salt Herbs, 481 Pesto, 299
Artichokes, Cipollini Onions (Kachumber), 919 Samosas, 970 Provencal, 501
and, 451 Panzanella, 927 Sandwich(es) Red Pepper Coulis, 299
Rosti Potatoes, 744-745 Papaya, Green, 921 Apple, with Curry Mayonnaise, 943 Remoulade, 520
Roulade Pasta, with Pesto Vinaigrette, 925 Barbecue, Carolina, 4 6 8 - 4 6 9 Robert, 508
Foie Gras, 1001 Peppers, Roasted (Peperoni Barbecued Beef, 936 Sherry Vinegar, 450
Pork Tenderloin, 999 Arrostiti), 928 Cheese Melt, Three-, 940 Southwest-Style, Chef Clark’s,
Rouladen, Beef, in Burgundy Sauce, Potato, 926 Chicken Burger, 936 4 7 2 -4 7 3
5 8 4 -5 8 5 Potato, European-Style, 926 Club, CIA, 934, 935 Supreme, 294
Rouladen Stuffing, 585 Potato, German, 749 Croque Monsieur, 937 Taco, 914
Royale Custard, 333 Rice, Curried, 930 Cucumber, with Herbed Cream Tarragon, Poached Chicken Breast
Royal Gla^age, 557 Seafood Ravigote, 930 Cheese, 943 with, 563
Russian Dressing, 942 Shrimp, 925 Gorgonzola and Pear, 944 Tomato, 295
Spinach, Baby, Avocado, and Hoagie, Philly, 934 Tomato Coulis, 296
Grapefruit, 918 Panini, Eggplant and Prosciutto, Tzatziki, Zucchini Pancakes with,
S Spinach, Wilted, with Warm Bacon 938, 939 688
Sabayon, 1129 Vinaigrette, 9 14-915 Reuben, 942 Veloute. See Veloute
Sable Cookies, 1140 Sweet Potato, Curried, 749 Reuben, Tempeh, 942 Veracruzana, Pescado, 562
Sachet d’Epices, 599, 774 Taco, 913 Tomato, with Oregano Sour Cream, Vin Blanc, Poached Sole with
Saffron Thai Table, 908 944 Vegetable Julienne and, 558
Broth with Fennel, Seafood Tomato and Mozzarella, 928 Turkey, Open-Faced, with Sweet Vin Blanc, Poached Trout
Poached in a, 570 Tuna, 924 and Sour Onions, 937 Paupiettes with, 556
Pasta, 819 Tuna and Bean (Insalata di Tonno e Vegetable, Grilled, with Manchego Yellow Pepper, 511
Pate Dough, 1006 Fagioli), 975 Cheese, 940, 941 Yogurt Cucumber, 957

RECIPE IN D E X 1199
 Sauerbraten, 587
Sauerkraut
Braised, 712
in Choucroute, 5 9 2 -5 9 3
Homemade, 593
in Reuben Sandwich, 942
in Reuben, Tempeh, 942
in Szekely Goulash (Szekely
Gulyas), 597
Sausage
Bratwurst, Scrambled Eggs with,
872
in Cassoulet, 594
Chinese, Fried Rice with, 787
Chorizo, Black Beans with Peppers
and, 7 6 8 -7 6 9
in Choucroute, 592 -5 9 3
Italian, Orecchiette with Broccoli
Rabe, Parmesan and, 820,
821
in Lasagna di Carnevale Napolitana,
8 2 5 -8 2 6
Mushroom, 598
in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789
and Pork Rolls, Braised, in Meat
Sauce with Rigatoni (Braciole
di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni),
5 9 0 -5 9 1
Sauteed Arugula, 702
Sauteed Chicken with Fines Herbes
Sauce, 500
Sauteed Medallions of Pork with
Winter Fruit Sauce, 505
Sauteed Trout a la Meuniere, 513
Savory Cheese Souffle, 874
Scallions. See also Green Onion(s)
and Beef, Skewered, 446
Scallops
and Bass en Papillote, 553
Cioppino, 562 -5 6 3
Fisherman’s Platter, 520
New England Shore Dinner, 560,
561
Ravigote, Seafood, 930
Seviche of, 962
Scaloppine
Pork, with Tomato Sauce, 503
Veal, Marsala, 5 0 3 -5 0 4
Scones
Cream, 1072
Ham and Cheddar, 1072
Raisin, 1072
Scrambled Eggs. See Egg(s), Scrambled
Scrod, Boston, with Cream, Capers,
and Tomatoes, 561
Sea Bass, Poached, with Clams, Bacon,
and Peppers, 553
Seafood. See Fish; Octopus; Shellfish;
Squid
Seasonal Vegetable Tarts, 701
Seasoning Mixes. See Spice Mixes
Seitan Satay, 4 4 2 -4 4 3
Semolina
Gnocchi di, Gratinati, 831
Pizza Crust, 1037
Senate Bean Soup, 346
Sesame-Soy Glaze, Grilled Shiitake
Mushrooms with, 6 8 6 -6 8 7
Seviche of Scallops, 962
Shallots, Crispy, 924
Shao-Mai (Steamed Dumplings),
8 3 8 -8 3 9
Shellfish. See also Clam(s); Lobster;
Mussels; Shrimp
Broth, 334
Chowder, Conch, 341
Chowder, Pacific Seafood, 342
Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3
Crab Cakes, Chesapeake-Style,
9 68, 969
Essence, 996
1200 REC IPE IN D E X
Fisherman’s Platter, 520
New England Shore Dinner, 560,
561
Omelet, 873
Omelet, Seafood, 873
in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789
Pate en Croute, Seafood, 1 0 0 8 -
1009
Poached in a Saffron Broth with
Fennel, Seafood, 570
Ravigote, Seafood, 930
Scallops and Bass en Papillote, 553
Scallops, Seviche of, 962
Stock, 264
Terrine, Crayfish and Chicken, 996
Terrine, Seafood and Salmon, 993
in Udon Noodle Pot, 566
Sherried Watercress and Apple Salad,
917
Sherry Vinegar Sauce, 450
Shiitake Mushrooms
in Glass Noodles, Stir-Fried (Jap
Chae), 822
Grilled, with Soy-Sesame Glaze,
6 8 6 -6 8 7
Short-Grain Brown Rice Pilaf, 781
Short-Grain White Rice Pilaf
(Valencia), 780
Short Ribs, Braised, 584
Korean (Kalbi Jjim ), 5 8 2 -5 8 3
Shrimp
Bisque, 347
Broiled, with Garlic, 969
Chowder, Pacific Seafood, 342
in Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3
Coconut Macadamia, 966
in Dumplings, Steamed (Shao-
Mai), 8 3 8 -8 3 9
in Fisherman’s Platter, 520
Gumbo, and Chicken, 3 4 8 -3 4 9
in Hot and Sour Soup, Thai (Tom
Yum Kung), 354
Mirlitons, -Stuffed, 696
in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789
Paste on Sugarcane, Grilled (Chao
Tom), 977
Pate en Croute, Seafood, 1 0 0 8 -
1009
Ragout, Prawn and Chicken (Mar i
Muntanya), 612-613
Ravigote, Seafood, 930
Salad, 925
in Salad Rolls, Vietnamese, 981
in Samosas, 970
Stuffed, 970
Tempura, 523
Ticin-Xic, 513
in Udon Noodle Pot, 566
in Vatapa, 512
Veloute, 294
Simple Syrup, 1023
Sirloin Steak
Barbecued, with Herb Crust, 445
Grilled or Broiled, with Maitre
d’Hotel Butter, 440
Grilled or Broiled, with Marchand
de Vin Sauce, 441
Grilled or Broiled, with Mushroom
Sauce, 440
Skewers, Skewered
Beef Satay with Peanut Sauce,
9 8 2 -9 8 3
Beef and Scallions, 446
Lamb, Indian Grilled, with Fresh
Mango Chutney, 4 5 2 -4 5 3
Lamb Kebabs with Pimiento Butter,
Broiled, 447
Pork and Veal (Raznjici), 447
Shrimp Paste on Sugarcane, Grilled
(Chao Tom), 977
Sliced Daikon Salad (Mu Chae), 922 Sour Cream
Smoked Bean Curd and Celery Salad, Oregano, Tomato Sandwich with,
908 944
Smoked Brisket with Sweet Pickles, Tzatziki, Zucchini Pancakes with,
4 7 2 -4 7 3 , 537 688
Smoked Salmon. See Salmon, Smoked White Sauce, 1154
S’mores, 1151-1155 Southwest-Style Sauce, Chef Clark’s,
Snapper 4 7 2 -4 7 3
Fillet of, en Papillote, 5 5 8 -5 5 9 Southwest White Bean Stew, 775
in Pescado Veracruzana, 562 Soy
Red, with Grapefruit Salsa, 509 Cilantro-Lime Sauce, 956
Snow Peas and Yellow Squash, -Ginger Dipping Sauce, 841
Gingered, 684 -Sesame Glaze, Grilled Shiitake
Soda Bread, Irish, 1072 Mushrooms with, 6 8 6 -6 8 7
Soft-Cooked Eggs, 866 Soybeans, Boiled Edamame, 444, 681
Soft Dinner Rolls, 1045 Spaghetti Squash, 690, 691
Sole Spanish Omelet, 873
Mousseline, 555 Spatzle, 834
Paupiettes Veronique, Poached, 557 Spice Mixes. See also specific spices
Poached, with Saffron Mousse, 555 Barbecue, 368
Poached, with Vegetable Julienne Bouquet Garni, 774
and Vin Blanc Sauce, 558 Chili Powder, 368
Sorbet, Cilantro, 1149 Curry Powder, 369
Souffle(s) Fines Herbes, 369
Artichoke, 875 Five-Spice Powder, Chinese, 368
Cheese, Savory, 874 Garam Masala, 368
Chocolate, 1106 Jerk Seasoning, 459
Pastry Cream for, 1099 for Lamb, Roasted Shoulder of, and
Spinach, 874 Couscous (Mechoui), 478
Souffleed Cheddar Omelet, 874 for Mushroom Sausage, 598
Souffleed Potatoes, 748 Pate, 1011
Soup(s). See also Broth; Chowder; Quatre Epices, 369
Consomme; Stock(s) Sachet d’Epices, 599, 774
Bean, Senate, 346 for Spit-Roasted Meats and Poultry,
Beef Noodle (Pho Bo), 569 371
Beef, Spicy (Yukkaejang), 351 Spice Paste
Bisque, Lobster, 348 Curry, Green, 370
Bisque, Shrimp, 347 Curry, Red, 370
Black Bean, Puree of, Caribbean- Curry, Yellow, 371
Style, 345 for Pork Vindaloo, 596
Cheddar Cheese and Beer, Spice Rub
Wisconsin, 340 BBQ, 791
Chicken Rice (Canja), 336 Herb, 982
Chicken, Thai, with Coconut Milk Spicy Beef Soup (Yukkaejang), 351
and Galangal, 353 Spicy Mango Chutney, 961
Corn and Chicken, Amish, 334 Spicy Mustard, 960
Cream Spicy Peanut Sauce, 4 4 2 -4 4 3
of Asparagus (Creme Spinach
d’Argenteuil), 339 Eggs Florentine, 871
of Broccoli, 339 Omelet Florentine, 873
of Celery (Creme de Celeri), 339 Pancakes, 707
of Tomato, 339 Pasta, 819
of Tomato with Rice, 339 Pizza, 1037
Gazpacho Andaluz (Andalucian Quiche, 876
Gazpacho), 349 Salad, Baby, Avocado, and
Gumbo, Chicken and Shrimp, Grapefruit, 918
3 4 8 -3 4 9 Salad, Wilted, with Warm Bacon
Ham Bone and Collard Greens, 350 Vinaigrette, 914-915
Hot and Sour, Chinese (Suan La Souffle, 874
Tang), 350 Split Pea Soup, Puree of, 345
Hot and Sour, Thai (Tom Yum Yellow, 345
Kung), 354 Sponge Cake
Lentil, Puree of, 344 Chocolate, 1083
Minestrone, 357 Vanilla, 1083
Miso, 353 Spring Roll Dipping Sauce, 957
Onion, 335 Spring Rolls, 980
Onion, Gratinee, 335 Squash
Onion, White, 335 Acorn, Baked, with Cranberry-
Potage Garbure, 346 Orange Compote, 689
Split Pea, Puree of, 345 Butternut, Puree, 691
Split Pea, Yellow, Puree of, 345 Butternut, in Risotto, Vegetarian, 784
Tortilla, 335 Mirlitons, Shrimp-Stuffed, 696
Vegetable, Emilia-Romagna Style Spaghetti, 690, 691
(Minestrone alia Emiliana), Summer. See Yellow Squash;
357 Zucchini
Vichyssoise, 347 Squid
White Bean and Escarole, Tuscan, Baby, in Black Ink Sauce
355 (Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean),
Wonton, 3 5 4 -3 5 5 976
in Pescado Frito, 9 7 2-973
Stir-Fried, with Thai Basil, 515
Standing Rib Roast au Jus, 464 Duxelles, 482 Sticky Rice with Mangos Tuscan White Bean and Escarole
Steak(s) Forcemeat, Herbed, 605 (Mamuang Kao Nieo), 787 Soup, 355
Barbecued, with Herb Crust, 445 Forcemeat, Mushroom, 484 Table Salad, 908 Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean (Baby Squid
Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7 Rouladen, 585 Thousand Island Dressing, 906 in Black Ink Sauce), 976
Grilled or Broiled Sirloin, with Suan La Tang (Chinese Hot and Sour Three-Cheese Melt, 940
Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 440 Soup), 350 Tinga Poblano, 530
Grilled or Broiled Sirloin, with Sugar, Cinnamon, 1043 Tofu. See also Bean Curd U
Marchand de Vin Sauce, 441 Summer Melon Salad with Prosciutto, Cakes with Portobello Mushrooms Udon Noodle(s)
Grilled or Broiled Sirloin, with 919 and Mango Ketchup, 971 Pot, 566
Mushroom Sauce, 440 Summer Squash. See Yellow Squash; Tomatillos Tempeh Cashew, 825
Grilled Rib Eye, 446 Zucchini Salsa Verde Asada, 954
Steamed Broccoli, 681 Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano Salsa Verde Cruda, 954
Steamed Dumplings (Shao-Mai), Butter, 300 Tomato(es) V
8 3 8 -8 3 9 Sunonomo (Cucumber and Wakame Coulis, 296 Vanilla
Steamed Long-Grain Rice (Lo Han), Salad), 922 and Cracked Wheat Salad, 802, 803 Caramel Sauce, 1159
785 Supreme Sauce, 294 Deviled Eggs with, 866 Ice Cream, 1102,1103
Stew(s). See also Goulash Sushi Rice, 785 Gazpacho Andaluz (Andalucian Ice Cream, for Profiteroles, 1156,
Beef, 589 Swedish-Style Scrambled Eggs, 872 Gazpacho), 349 1157
Cassoulet, 594 Sweet Dough, 1045 Ketchup, Mango, Tofu Cakes with Sauce, 1099
Chicken and Prawn Ragout (Mar i Sweet Garlic Sauce, 524 Portobello Mushrooms and, Sponge Cake, 1083
Muntanya), 612-613 Sweet Pickles, 472 971 Vatapa, 512
Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 Sweet Potato(es) and Mozzarella Salad, 928 Veal
Green Chile, New Mexican, 595 Chips, 746, 747 Omelet, 873 Blanquette, 597
Irish, 608 Glazed, 738 Oven-Roasted, 692 Breast, Braised, with Mushroom
Lamb and Chicken, Couscous Mashed, with Ginger, 7 3 8 -7 3 9 Pasta, 819 Sausage, 598
with, 609 Salad, Curried, 749 Pescado Veracruzana, 562 Broth, 334
Lamb Navarin, 606 Sweet and Spicy Bulgur Salad, 800 Pico de Gallo, 953 Cabbage, Stuffed, Polish, 6 0 2 -6 0 3
Veal Blanquette, 597 Swiss Meringue, 1024 Potage Garbure, 346 Cordon Bleu, 519
White Bean, Southwest, 775 Swiss-Style Veal, Emince of, 502, 503 Quiche, and Leek, 876 Cutlets, Pan-Fried, 518
Stewed Black Beans, 775 Syrup, Simple, 1023 in Ratatouille, 708 Demi-Glace, 293
Sticky Buns, 1046 Szekely Goulash (Szekely Gulyas), 597 Salsa Roja, 954 Emince of, Swiss-Style, 502, 503
Sticky Rice, Thai, with Mangos Sandwich with Oregano Sour Espagnole Sauce, 294
(Mamuang Kao Nieo), 787
Stir-Fried Glass Noodles (Jap Chae),
822
t
Taco Salad, 913
Cream, 944
Sauce, 295
Sauce, Provencal, 501
Forcemeat Stuffing, Herbed, 605
Fricassee, 612
Jus de Veau Lie, 293
Stir-Fried Shanghai Bok Choy Taco Sauce, 914 Soup, Cream of, 339 Mushroom Sausage, 598
(Qinchao Shanghai Baicai), Tagine, Chicken, 610-611 Soup, Cream of, with Rice, 339 Osso Buco Milanese, 6 0 0 -6 0 1
7 02-703 Tangerine-Flavored Chicken, Crispy, Sun-Dried, and Oregano Butter, Piccata with Milanese Sauce
Stir-Fried Squid with Thai Basil, 515 5 24 -5 2 5 300 (Piccata di Vitello alia
Stock(s). See also Broth; Consomme; Tapenade, 959 in Tortilla Soup, 335 Milanese), 519
Soup(s) Tarragon Vinaigrette, Fire-Roasted, 899 Scaloppine Marsala, 5 0 3 -5 0 4
in Aspic, 995 in Bearnaise Sauce, 297 Tom Yum Kung (Thai Hot and Sour Shoulder Poele, 464
Beef, White, 263 Butter, 300 Soup), 354 Skewers, and Pork (Raznjici), 447
Chicken, 263 Sauce, Poached Chicken Breast Tortilla(s) Stock, Brown, 263
Chicken, Brown, 264 with, 563 Chips, 962 Stock, White, 263
Court Bouillon, 265 Tart(s). See also Pie(s); Quiche Flour, in Mushroom Quesadillas Terrine, Country-Style (Pate de
Dashi, Ichi Ban, 267 Frangipane Pear Tartlets, 1128 with Two Salsas, 700 Campagne), 998
Duck, Brown, 264 Key Lime, 1146-1147 Soup, 335 Vitello Tonnato, 983
Estouffade, 264 Lemon Souffle, with Basil Ice in Taco Salad, 913 Wiener Schnitzel, 518
Fish Fumet, 264 Cream and Blueberry Tortilla de Papas, 750 Vegetable(s). See also specific
Game, Brown, 264 Compote, 1142-1145 Tortilla Espanola (Potato Omelet), 979 vegetables
Lamb, Brown, 264 Shells, Tartlet, 1144 Tostones, 708 in Beef Stew, 589
Pork, Brown, 264 Vegetable, Seasonal, 701 Trout and Cheese Omelet, 873
Poultry and Meat (Brodo), 266 Tartar Sauce, 903 Amandine, 509 Chicken with (Poule au Pot), 565
Shellfish, 264 Tempeh Brook, Pan-Fried, with Bacon, 522 Corned Beef with Winter
Veal, Brown, 263 Cashew Noodles, 824, 825 a la Meuniere, Sauteed, 513 Vegetables, 5 6 6 -5 6 7
Veal, White, 263 Reuben, 942 Mousseline, and Saffron, 555 Court Bouillon, 265
Vegetable, 265 Tempura Paupiettes, Poached, with Vin Blanc Grilled, Marinated, 686
Vegetable, Roasted, 265 Dipping Sauce, 523 Sauce, 556 Grilled, Proven£al-Style, 686
Strawberry Coulis, 1146 Shrimp, 523 Poached, with Saffron Mousse, Grilled, Sandwich with Manchego
Straws, Chocolate, 1160 Vegetable, 708 5 5 4 -5 5 5 Cheese, 940, 941
Strudel, Mushroom, with Goat Teriyaki, Beef, 445 Truffle Centers, Beignet, 1153 in Irish Stew, 608
Cheese, 978 Teriyaki Marinade, 374 Truffle Vinaigrette, 900 Jambalaya, Grilled, 7 90-791
Stuffed Terrine Tuile Nut Cookies, 1090 Jardiniere, 705
Beef Rouladen in Burgundy Sauce, Chicken and Crayfish, 9 9 6 ,1 0 0 5 Tuiles, 1144 Julienne, 706
5 8 4 -5 8 5 Country-Style (Pate de Campagne), Tuna Julienne, Poached Sole with Vin
Cabbage, Polish, 6 0 2 -6 0 3 998 and Bean Salad (Insalata di Tonno e Blanc Sauce and, 558
Chicken, Breast of, with Duxelles Duck, with Pistachios and Dried Fagioli), 975 in Lamb Navarin, 606
Stuffing and Sauce Supreme, Cherries, 1002-1003 Carpaccio (Crudo di Tonno alia Macedoine of, 706
515 Duck and Smoked Ham, 1 0 0 4 - Battuta), 964, 965 Minestrone, 357
Chicken Legs with Duxelles 1005 Salad, 924 New England Shore Dinner,
Stuffing, 482 Foie Gras, 1001 Vitello Tonnato, 983 5 6 0 -5 6 1
Chiles Rellenos con Picadillo Seafood and Salmon, 993 Turkey Potage Garbure, 346
Oaxaqueno, 5 2 8 -5 2 9 Vegetable, with Goat Cheese, 1010 Broth, 334 in Pot Roast, Yankee, 586
Leg of Lamb, Portuguese, 605 Venison, 1002 in Club, CIA, 934, 935 Ratatouille, 708
Lobster, Broiled, 4 6 0 -4 6 1 Thai in Cobb Salad, 913 Soup, Emilia-Romagna Style
Mirlitons, Shrimp-, 696 Basil, Stir-Fried Squid with, 515 Roast, with Pan Gravy and Chestnut (Minestrone alia Emiliana),
Pork Chops, Baked, 465 Chicken Soup with Coconut Milk Stuffing, 4 8 5 -4 8 6 357
Shrimp, 970 and Galangal, 353 Sandwich, Open-Faced, with Sweet Stock, 265
Stuffing Hot and Sour Soup (Tom Yum and Sour Onions, 937 Stock, Roasted, 265
Chestnut, 486 Kung), 354 Tuscan-Style Potatoes, Roasted, 738 Tarts, Seasonal, 701

RECIPE IN D E X 1201
 Vegetable(s), continued
Tempura, 708
Vin Blanc Sauce
Poached Sole with Vegetable
Wheat Berry
Pilaf, 780
y
Yankee Pot Roast, 586
Terrine, with Goat Cheese, 1010 Julienne and, 558 in Pilaf, Mixed Grain, 796 Yeast Bread. See Bread(s), Yeast
in Udon Noodle Pot, 566 Poached Trout Paupiettes with, 556 Salad with Oranges, Cherries, and Yellow Curry Paste, 371
Veloute, 294 Vinegar Sauce, Sherry, 450 Pecans, 798, 799 Yellow Pepper Sauce, 511
Vegetarian Black Bean Crepes, 770, Vitello Tonnato, 983 Whipped Cream for Garnish Yellow Split Pea Soup, Puree of, 345
771 (Chantilly), 1023 Yellow Squash
Vegetarian Chili, 778-779 Whipped Potatoes, 517, 735 Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790,
Vegetarian Risotto, 784 W White Bean(s) 791
Veloute Waffles, Basic, 1073 and Asparagus Lasagna, 829 Noodles, Summer Squash, 704
Chicken, 294 Wakame and Cucumber Salad Boiled, 777 Salsa, Summer Squash, 699
Fish, 294 (Sunonomo), 922 and Escarole Soup, Tuscan, 355 and Snow Peas, Gingered, 684
Shrimp, 294 Waldorf Salad, 918 Stew, Southwest, 775 Vegetable Tarts, Seasonal, 701
Vegetable, 294 Walnut Oil and Red Wine Vinaigrette, White Onion Soup, 335 Yogurt
Venison Terrine, 1002 901 White Sauce, 1154 Cucumber Salad, 923
Vichyssoise, 347 Walnuts White Stock Cucumber Sauce, 957
Vietnamese Dipping Sauce, 956 Endive Salad with Roquefort and Beef, 263 Lamb Khorma, 607
Vietnamese Salad Rolls, 981 (Salade de Roquefort, Noix, Veal, 263 and Mint Chutney, 462
Vinaigrette et Endives), 910-911 White Wine Tzatziki, Zucchini Pancakes with,
Almond-Fig, 897 Green Beans with, 685 Fruit Sauce, Winter, 505 688
Apple Cider, 897 Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby Sauce Robert, 508 Yukkaejang (Spicy Beef Soup), 351
Bacon, Warm, Wilted Spinach Salad Greens with Robiola Cheese Vinaigrette, 896
with, 914-915 and, 916, 917 Vin Blanc Sauce, Poached Sole with
Balsamic, 897 in Waldorf Salad, 918 Vegetable Julienne and, 558 Z
Chipotle-Sherry, 896 Warm Black-Eyed Pea Salad, 929 Vin Blanc Sauce, Poached Trout Zabaglione, 1129
Curry, 898 Warm Cabbage Salad, 506 Paupiettes with, 556 Z’hug, 960
Garlic, Roasted, and Mustard, 896 Warm Date Spice Cake with Whole Wheat Pasta, 819 Zucchini
Gourmande, 901 Butterscotch Sauce and Wiener Schnitzel, 518 Grilled Vegetables Provencal, 686
Guava-Curry, 899 Cinnamon Ice Cream, Wild Mushroom Risotto, 783 Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790,
Lemon-Garlic, 896 1134-1138 Wild Rice 791
Lemon-Parsley, 896 Warm Goat Cheese Custard, 875 Cakes, 806 Noodles, Summer Squash, 704
Mustard-Herb, 896 Wasabi, 960 Pilaf, 780 Pancakes with Tzatziki, 688
Pesto, 901 Watercress Pilaf, Mixed Grain, 796 Pan-Fried, 707
Red Wine, 896 and Apple Salad, Sherried, 917 Wilted Spinach Salad with Warm Ratatouille, 708
Tomato, Fire-Roasted, 899 Sandwich with Herb Mayonnaise, Bacon Vinaigrette, 914-915 Salsa, Summer Squash, 699
Truffle, 900 943 Winter Fruit Sauce, 505 Vegetable Tarts, Seasonal, 701
Truffle, and Herb, 900 Wedge of Iceberg with Thousand Wisconsin Cheddar Cheese and Beer
Walnut Oil and Red Wine, 901 Island Dressing, 909 Soup, 340
White Wine, 896 Western Omelet, 873 Wonton Soup, 3 5 4 -3 5 5

subject index
a
Abalone, 119
Americaine sauce, 278
Americans with Disabilities Act
Arborio rice, 205, 764,1162
Arctic char, 110, 111
Asparagus, 174,175, 642
Aspic, 987, 995
Acid, in marinades, 363 (ADA), 39 Arkansas stones, 48 As-purchased cost (APC), 17
Acidity, food, 33 Amino acids, 24 Aromatic vegetables. See also Mirepoix As-purchased quantity (APQ), 18
Acini de pepe, 214 Anaheim chiles, 164,165 in Asian cuisine, 243 Aurore maigre sauce, 278
Acorn squash, 153 Anardana, 223 bouquet garni, 240, 241, 254 Aurore sauce, 278
Administrative duties, 5 Ancho chiles, 164 in braises and stews, 572, 575, 679 Avocados, 144,145, 644
Adzuki beans, 217,1161 Anchovy, 116 in broths, 304, 313
Aerobic bacteria, 33
Agricultural production methods,
11,128
Angel food cake, 1020,1021,1059,
1061
Angel hair pasta, 213-214
in chowder, 320
in consomme, 306, 307
in marinades, 363
b
Back waiter (dem i-chefde rang), 10
Aioli, 887 Anglerfish (monkfish), 114,115 oignon brule/pique, 240 Bacteria, 3 2 -3 3 , 3 4 ,1 2 8
Albacore (tombo), 111 Anise, 222, 223 oils and vinegars, infused, 883 Bain-marie, 5 7 ,1 0 9 2 ,1 0 9 3
Albufera sauce, 278 Annatto, 223 in pan sauce, 433 Baked goods and baking. See also
Alcohol abuse, staff, 39 Announcer (aboyeur), 9 in pilaf, 761, 762 Cakes; Cookies; Pies and tarts
Al dente, 649, 815 Appetizers in risotto, 764, 765 cooling/unmolding, 1059
Alkalinity, food, 33 mousse, cold savory, 9 4 8 -9 5 2 in soups, 317, 321, 322, 327 fats in, 30
Allemande sauce, 278 presentation of, 947 in steaming liquid, 652 glazing, 1118
Allergies, food, 37 quenelles, 992 sweating, 242, 276, 762 leaveners in, 1017
All-purpose flour, 202, 203 types of, 9 4 6 -9 4 7 Arrowroot, 29, 30, 247, 248,1016 liquefiers in, 1016-1017
Allspice, 222, 223 Apples Artichokes, 174,175, 643, 648 mise en place, 1015-1022
Almonds, 219, 220 discoloration of, 130, 890 Artificial sweeteners, 229 mixing methods
Aluminum pots and pans, 56 in fruit salad, 890 Arugula (rocket), 156,157 blending, 1052
Amaranth, 210, 211 varieties of, 130-131 Asiago cheese, 194,195 creaming, 1053-1055
Amberjack, 113 Apricots, 143 Asian pears, 140,141 foaming, 1058-1061

1202 SUB JE C T IN D E X
 guidelines, 1055
pate a choux, 1062-1065
rubbed dough, 1048-1051
pan preparation, 1021
pastry bags and tips, 1022
scaling ingredients, 1018
sifting dry ingredients, 1018
stabilizers in, 1016
storing, 1059
sugar caramelization, 1018-1019
wines and cordials in, 235
yeast bread, 1026-1032
Baked vegetables
en casserole potatoes, 7 2 5 -7 2 8
potatoes, 722-724
procedures, 6 6 1 -6 6 3
pureeing, 664
Bakeries, career opportunities in, 8
Baking. See Baked goods and baking
Baking pans, 1021
Baking powder, 234,1017
Baking soda, 234,1017
Bamboo steamer, 59
Bananas, 144,145
Banquet service
pasta, 818
plated desserts, 1133
Barbecue sauce
applying, 4 2 6 ,4 3 0
regional, 4 3 0 -4 3 1
Barbecuing, 430
Barding, 4 2 9 ,4 3 4
Barley, 210, 211, 752,1162
Barley flour, 210
Bartlett pears (William), 140,141
Basil, 180
Basket method of deep frying, 499,
674, 675, 676
Basmati rice, 204, 205, 752,1162
Bass, 107,108
Basting, 429, 432
Batonnet/julienne knife cut, 618,
622, 625
Batters
blended, 1052
creamed, 1053-1055
for deep-fried foods, 497
foamed, 1058-1061
mixing guidelines, 1055
pasta, 8 0 8 - 8 0 9
pate a choux, 1062-1065
Bavaroise sauce, 287
Bay leaf, 180
Beans, dried. See also Legumes
in broth, 314
in pureed soups, 321
salads, 895
soaking/cooking times, 1161
varieties of, 216-218,1161
Beans, fresh, 166,167
Bean thread noodles, 213, 214
Bearnaise sauce, 283, 287
Bechamel sauce, 274, 275, 279, 864
Beef. See also Meat; Meat fabrication
cooking methods, 7 6 -7 7
cuts of, 7 2 -7 9
doneness of, 367
grades of, 72
kosher, 71
market forms of, 77
rib roast, carving, 437
stock, 256, 262
variety meats (offal), 77
Beefsteak tomatoes, 177
Beet greens, 158,159
Beets, 168,169,170
Belgian endive, 156,157, 621
Bell peppers. See Peppers, sweet
Belly, pork, 88, 89
Bercy sauce, 278
Berries
culinary uses of, 133
selecting, 132
varieties of, 132-133
Beurre blanc, 2 8 8 -2 9 0 , 291
Beverages, 235
Bhutanese red rice, 204, 205
Bibb lettuce, 155
Bigarade sauce, 272
Biodynamic agriculture, 11
Biological contaminants, 32
Biotechnology, agricultural, 128
Bird chiles (Thai), 164,165
Biscotti, 1066
Biscuits, rubbed-dough method for,
1048-1051
Bisque, 3 2 5 -3 2 9
Black beans (turtle), 216, 217,1161
Black beauty grapes, 137
Blackberries, 132,133
Black corinth grapes (champagne),
136,137
Black-eyed peas, 218, 314,1161
Black grapes, 136,137
Black sea bass, 107,108
Blades, knife, 44
Blanching
meat and poultry, 304
potatoes for deep frying, 732, 734
vegetables, 649
Blenders, 67, 68
Blending mixing method, 1052
Blind baking, 1124
Blood oranges, 134,135
Blood sausage, 77
Blueberries, 132,133
Blue cheese, 196-197
Bluefish, 113
Bohemienne sauce, 279
Boiling
cereals and meals, 7 5 6 -7 5 9
eggs, 8 4 8 -8 4 9
pasta and noodles, 8 1 4 -8 1 7
potatoes, 715-717
vegetables, 6 4 8 -6 5 0
Bok choy, 148,149
baby, 149
Bolsters, knife, 45
Boneless meats, fabricating, 379
Boniato, 173
Boning knife, 4 6 ,4 7
Bonnefoy sauce, 278
Bordelaise sauce, 272
Bose pears, 140,141
Boston butt, pork, 86, 87, 89
Boston lettuce, 154,155
Botulism, 32
Boulanger, 9
Bouquet garni, 240, 241, 254
Bourguignonne sauce, 272
Boursin cheese, 186,18 7
Brains, veal, 83
Braising
meat, poultry, and fish, 549,
572-576
vegetables, 677 -6 7 9
Bran
oat, 208, 209
wheat, 201, 203
Brassica (cabbage) family, 147-149
Brazil nuts, 220
Bread. See also Quick breads; Yeast
dough
panadas, 986
for sandwiches, 933
stuffing, 364
Bread crumbs, 365
Bread flour, 202, 203
Breading
for deep-fried food, 497, 675, 676
ingredients for, 3 6 5,4 9 3
for pan-fried food, 495 Calamari (squid), 122,123
standard procedure, 365 Calaspara rice, 205
Breast of lamb, 92, 93 Calcium, 26
Breast of veal, 81, 82, 84 Camembert cheese, 188,189
Bretonne sauce, 272, 278 Cameo apple, 130,131
Brie cheese, 188,1 8 9 Canary beans, 217
Brigade system Cannellini beans, 217
dining room, 10 Canning salt, 226
kitchen, 9 -1 0 Canola oil (rapeseed), 232
Brisket, 75, 77, 78 Cantal cheese, 193
Broccoli, 148,149 Cantaloupe, 138,139
Broccolini, 149 Capellini, 214
Broccoli rabe (rapini), 148,149 Cape shark (dogfish), 115
Broiler chicken, 97 Capon, 97
Broiler duckling, 97 Captain (c h ef d ’e tage), 10
Broiling Carambola (starfruit), 146
meat, poultry, and fish, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 Caramelizing sugar, 28, 29
vegetables, 6 5 8 -6 6 0 dry method, 1018
Broiling equipment, 6 5 ,4 2 4 wet method, 1019
Brook trout, 111 Caraway, 222, 223
Broths. See also Soups; Stocks Carbohydrates, 24, 28
basic formula, 303 Carborundum stones, 48
consomme, 3 0 6 -3 1 0 , 331 Cardamom, 222, 223
hearty, 311-314 Cardinal sauce, 279
ingredients for, 302, 303, 304, 311, Career opportunities, 7-10
312, 314 Career planning, 7
preparation of, 3 0 3 -3 0 5 Carnaroli rice, 204
Browning, Maillard reaction in, 2 8 -2 9 Carnival squash, 152
Brown rice, 204, 205 Carolina rice, 1162
Brown sauce, 2 6 8 -2 7 3 Carrots, 168,170, 242
Brown stock, 254, 256, 260, 262 in mirepoix, 242, 243, 244
Brown sugar, 228, 229 Carryover cooking, 3 6 6 ,4 3 2 ,4 9 6 , 576
Brunoise knife cut, 622, 623 Carving techniques, 4 3 5 -4 3 9
Brussels sprouts, 147,149 Casaba melon, 139
Bucatini, 213, 214 Casareccia, 214
Buckwheat, 211 En casserole potatoes, 7 2 5 -7 2 8
Buckwheat groats (kasha), 210, 211, Cashews, 219, 220
1162 Cassava (yucca), 172,173
Buffalo chopper, 68 Cassava flour, 248
Buffet service, 818 Cast-iron pans, 56, 57
Bulgur, 201, 203, 752,1162 Catering companies, career
Bulk fermentation, 1029 opportunities in, 8
Bundt pan, 60, 63 Catfish, 116
Busboy, 10 Caul fat, 88
Business duties and skills, 4 - 7 Cauliflower, 147,149
Butcher ( boucher), 9 Cavaillon melon, 138
Butcher’s yield test, 2 0 -2 2 Cayenne, 223
Butter. See also Clarified butter Celery, 174,175
beurre blanc, 2 8 8 -2 9 0 in mirepoix, 242, 243, 244
forms of, 184 Celery root, 169,170
in Hollandaise sauce, 283, 284 Celery seed, 222, 223
in roux, 246 Cepe mushrooms (porcini), 161
whole, 232 Cephalopods (shellfish), 122-123
Buttercream, 1108-1110 Cereals and meals, simmering and
Butterfat, 182, 251 boiling, 7 5 6 -7 5 9
Buttermilk, 184-185 Chafing dish, 62
Butternut squash, 152,153 Champagne grapes (black corinth),
136,137
Chanterelle mushrooms, 160,161
C Charcuterie, 9 8 5 -9 9 2
Cabbage, 147,149 Charcutiere sauce, 272
Cabbage (brassica) family, 147-149 Chasseur sauce (Huntsman’s), 272,
Cabbage turnip (kohlrabi), 149 291
Caciotta cheese, 190,191 Chateaubriand, 378
Cafes, career opportunities in, 8 Chayote (mirliton), 150,151
Cajun cuisine, 243, 246 Cheddar cheese, 192,193
Cake flour, 203, 246 Cheeks, veal, 82
Cake pan, 60, 62 Cheese
Cakes production of, 185
blending method, 1052 varieties of, 186-197
buttercream for, 1108-1110 Cheesecake, crumb crust for, 1051
cooling/unmolding, 1059 Cheesecloth, 55, 254
creaming method, 1053-1055 Cheese curd, 186
foaming method, 1058-1061 Chef de cuisine, 9
freezing, 1059 Chefs. See also Culinary professionals;
glazing, 1118 Staff
layer in brigade system, 9 -1 0
fillings and icings for, 1110 business duties and skills, 4 - 7
icing, 1111-1113 executive chef, 4 - 5 , 9
layering procedure, 1111 uniform of, 38
pan preparation, 1021
SUB JECT IN D E X 1203
 Chef’s knife (French knife), 47, 619, grills/broilers, 4 2 6 ,4 2 7 braising, 549, 572-5 7 6 , 6 7 7 -6 7 9 Cox orange pippin apples, 130,131
621 knives, 44 en casserole baking, 7 2 5 -7 2 8 Crab, 117,124,126
Chef’s potatoes, 173 pastry bags and tips, 1022 cereals and meals, 7 5 6 -7 5 9 doneness of, 367
Chemical leaveners, 1017 rolling pins, 53 custards, 1093-1095 soft-shell, cleaning, 417
Cherries, 143 uniforms, 38 deep frying, 4 9 7 -4 9 9 , 6 7 4 -6 7 6 , Crabapples, 131
Cherry sauce, 272 Cleaning supplies, storage of, 35 7 3 2 -7 3 4 Cracked wheat, 203,1162
Cherry tomatoes, 177 Cleaver, 46, 47 dry-heat, 29 Cranberries, 132,133
Chervil, 178,180 Cloves, 222, 223 dumplings, 808 Cranberry beans, 167, 216, 217
Chestnuts, 220 Coatings. See also Breading eggs, 8 4 8 -8 6 5 Cranberry tomatoes, 177
peeling, 640 for deep-fried food, 497, 675, 676 fish, 1 0 3 -1 0 4 ,1 0 6 ,1 0 8 -1 0 9 , Crayfish (crawfish), 125,418
Chevre (goat cheese), 186,187 ingredients for, 3 6 2 ,4 2 9 111-113,115-116 Cream. See also Whipped cream
Chevreuil sauce, 272 for pan-fried vegetables, 672 grains, 752-755 forms of, 182,183
Chicken. See also Poultry Cockles, 120 grilling and broiling, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 , freshness of, 182
classes of, 96, 97 Cocoa butter, 234 6 5 8 -6 6 0 in ganache, 1114-1115
doneness of, 367 Cocoa powder, 234 hot water bath, 1092,1093,1117 healthy substitutions, 25
fabrication of, 393 Coconut, 144,145 lamb, 92 in liaison, 2 4 9 -2 5 0
Chickpeas (garbanzo beans), 216, Coconut oil, 232 legumes, 7 52-755 in pan sauce, 491
217,1161 Cod, 105,106 pan frying, 4 9 3 -4 9 6 , 671-673, Cream cheese, 187
Chiffonade/shredding knife cut, 618, Coffee, 235 8 5 4 -8 5 5 Creamer onions (pearl), 162,163
621 Colander, 55, 254 pan steaming, 6 5 4 -6 5 7 Creamer potatoes, 171
Chiffon cake, 1059,1061 Cold-foods chef (garde manger), 9 en papillote, 5 3 6 -5 3 9 Creaming mixing method, 1053-1055
Chiles Collard greens, 148,149 pasta and noodles, 8 1 4 -8 1 7 Cream of rice, 204
cutting and seeding, 638 Combi oven, 65 poaching (deep), 5 4 4 -5 4 7 Cream soups, 317-319, 330
peeling, 639 Commis, 10 poaching (shallow), 5 4 0 -5 4 3 Creams, stirred, 1093,1095
toasting, 645 Communard, 10 poaching eggs, 8 5 0 -8 5 3 Creme caramel, 1092
varieties of, 164-165 Communications, career opportunities pork, 8 7 -8 8 Creme fraiche, 184
Chili powder, 225 in, 8 potatoes, 715-734 Cremini mushrooms, 160,161
Chinese cabbage Communication skills, 7 poultry, 97 Crenshaw melon, 139
Napa, 147,149 Complex carbohydrates, 24 roasting, 4 2 8 -4 3 4 , 6 6 1 -6 6 3 , Creole cuisine, 246
white (bok choy), 148,149 Composed salads, 895 7 2 2 -7 2 4 Crepe pan, 57
Chinese-five-spice, 225 Concasse, tomato, 6 3 6 -6 3 7 and sauce pairing, 292 Crevettes sauce, aux, 278
Chinese long beans (yard long), 166, Conch (scungilli), 119 sauteing, 4 8 8 - 4 9 2 , 6 6 5 -6 6 7 , Critical control points (CCPs), 15, 36
167 Concord grapes, 136,137 7 2 9-731 Crookneck squash, 151
Chipotle chiles, 164 Condensed milk, sweetened, 183 shellfish, 1 1 9 -1 2 1 ,1 2 3 ,1 2 5 -1 2 6 Cross-contamination, 33, 34, 35, 70,
Chives, 162,179,180, 621 Condiments, 234 simmering, 544-5 4 7 , 752-755, 365
Chivry sauce, 278 Conduction cooking, 27 7 5 6 -7 5 9 Crosshatch marks, 426, 660
Chocolate Confectioners’ sugar (powdered), smoking, 430 Croutons, 889
in creamed batter, 1053 228, 229 sous vide, 5 4 8 -5 5 2 Crumb crusts, 1051
fondant, 1120 Confiseur, 9 steaming, 532-5 3 5 , 6 5 1 -6 5 3 , 717 Crumb toppings, 1123
ganache, 1110,1114-1115 Consomme, 3 0 6 -3 1 0 , 330, 331 stewing, 577-580, 6 7 7 -6 7 9 Crustaceans (shellfish), 124-125
melting, 1117 Consultants, 10 stir-frying, 4 8 8 -4 8 9 , 6 6 8 -6 7 0 Cucumbers, 150,151
production of, 234 Contamination, food, 3 2 -33. See also veal, 8 2 -8 3 Culinary professionals. See also Chefs
storage of, 234 Food safety vegetables, 6 4 8 - 6 8 0 associations of, 1191
tempered, 1116,1117 Cross-contamination, 33, 34 in world cuisines, 12 career opportunities for, 7-10
truffles, 1116 Convection cooking, 27 Cooking process career planning for, 7
Chocolate liquor, 234 Convection oven, 65 heat transfer in, 2 7 -2 8 education and training of, 4
Cholesterol, 24 Convection steamer, 64 sugars and starches in, 2 8 -2 9 and food industry trends, 11-12
Chopping vegetables and herbs, 618, Converted rice, 204, 205,1162 Cookware. See Pots and pans information sources for, 1189-1190
620 Cooked foods, cooling and storing, 35 Cooling foods management duties of. See
Chops Cookies baked goods, 1059 Management
Bone-in, cutting, 381 creaming method, 1053,1053-1055 for safe storage, 35 personal attributes of, 4
lamb, 90 drop, 1066,1068 stock, 260 professional network of, 4
pork, 85 glazing, 1118 vegetables, 650 Cumin, 222, 223
veal, 81 piped, 1067 Copper pots and pans, 56, 58 Curing salt, 226
Choron sauce, 283, 287 rolled and cut, 1066 Cordials, 235 Currants, 132,133
Chowder, 320 stenciled, 1069 Coriander Currant tomatoes, 177
Chuck cuts twice-baked, 1066 dried, 222, 223 Curry leaves, 180
beef, 75, 76, 78 Cooking fats. See Fats and oils fresh (cilantro), 179,180 Curry powder, 225
lamb, 91, 92 Cooking liquids Corn, 166,167, 207 Custards
veal, 84 for basting, 432 cutting from cob, 641 baked, 1092
Cilantro (fresh coriander), 179,180 for boiling, 648, 649, 650, 715 Cornish hens, 97 as pie filling, 1123,1124
Cinnamon, 222, 223 for braising, 572, 575 Cornmeal, 206, 207 stirred, 1093-1095
Cipollini onions, 162,163 cooling, 35 Corn oil, 232 Cut-in dough method, 1048-1051
Citrus fruits in pan sauce, 491 Cornstarch, 30, 206, 207, 247, 248, Cutlets, 80, 380
juicing, 890 for pilaf, 760, 761 268 ,1 0 1 6 Cutting fruits, 8 9 0 -8 9 3
selecting, 134 for poaching (deep), 544, 546 Corn syrup, 228, 230 apples, 890
supremes, 891 for poaching (shallow), 540, 542, Cortland apples, 130,131 citrus, 8 9 0 -8 9 1
varieties of, 134-135 543 Cost hedgehog cut, 892
zesting, 891 for poaching eggs, 852 As-purchased (APC), 17 mangos, 892
Clams, 117,118,120 for risotto, 764, 765, 766 butcher’s yield test, 2 0 -2 2 melons, 893
doneness of, 367 for simmering grains, 753 control, 5 pineapples, 893
opening, 419 for simmering legumes, 753 edible portion, 19 Cutting vegetables and herbs
Clarification ingredients, for for steaming, 53 2 ,5 3 4 ,6 5 1 ,6 5 2 ,6 5 3 Cottage cheese, 186,187 artichokes, 643
consomme, 306, 307, 308 for steaming, pan, 654, 655, 656 Cottonseed oil, 233 asparagus, 642
Clarified butter, 232 for stewing, 579, 580 Count measure, 14 avocados, 644
in hollandaise sauce, 283, 284 Cooking methods Country clubs, career opportunities batonnet/julienne cut, 618, 622,
preparation of, 251-252 baking, 6 6 1 -6 6 3 , 722-724 in, 8 625
in roux, 246, 251 barbecuing, 430 Country-style forcemeat, 986, 991, chestnuts, 640
Cleaning and sanitizing beef, 7 6 -7 7 992 chiffonade/shredding, 618, 621
copper pans, 56 boiling, 6 4 8 -6 5 0 , 715-717, Court bouillon, 254 chopping, 618, 620, 6 3 3 -6 3 4
for food safety, 37-38 7 56 -7 5 9 Couscous, 212, 215,75 2 ,1 1 6 2 corn, 641

1204 S U B J E C T IN D E X
 fermiere/paysanne cut, 618, 624
for deep-fried potatoes, 733
diagonal/bias cut, 627
diamond/lozenge cut, 618, 624, 626
dicing, 623, 625, 631-632
fanning cut, 630
fluting, 629
garlic, 6 3 3 -6 3 4
gaufrette/waffle cut, 628
guidelines, 6 4 5 -6 4 6
julienne/batonnet cut, 618, 622,
625
leeks, 635
lettuce, 888
lozenge/diamond cut, 618, 624, 626
mincing, 618, 621, 6 3 1-632, 634
mushrooms, 640
oblique/roll cut, 627
onions, 631-632
paysanne/fermiere cut, 618, 624
peapods, 641
peeling, 619, 631
peppers and chiles, 6 3 8 -6 3 9
rondelle/round cut, 618, 624, 626
standard cuts, 618, 6 2 2 -6 2 4
tomatoes, 636
tourne/turned cut, 624, 630
waffle/gaufrette cut, 628
Cuttlefish, 123
d pepper, 227
Daikon, 169,170
Dairy products. See also Cheese;
Cream; Milk
storage of, 3 4 ,182
types of, 182-185
Dandelion greens, 158,159
Danish blue cheese, 197
D’Anjou pears, 140,141
Decorateur, 9
Deep-fat fryer, 64,497, 674, 676, 732
Deep frying
breading and coating in, 497, 675,
676
meat, poultry, and fish, 4 9 7 -4 9 9
potatoes, 732-734
vegetables, 6 7 4 -6 7 6
Degreasing soups and broths, 309, 330
Delicata squash (sweet potato), 152,
153
Delicious apples, 131
Demerara sugar, 229
Demi-glace, 268
Denatured protein, 29
Design specialists, 10
Dessert menu, 1132,1133
Desserts. See also Cakes; Cookies; Pies
and tarts
custards, 1092-1095
frozen, 184,1133
ice cream, 184,1095
mousse, 1096-1098
plated, 1131-1133
truffles, 1116
Diagonal/bias knife cut, 627
Diamond/lozenge knife cut, 618,
624, 626
Diamond-impregnated stones, 48, 50
Diane sauce, 272
Dicing vegetables and herbs, 623, 625,
6 31-632
Dill, 178,180, 224
Dining room brigade system, 10
Diplomate sauce, 278
Direct fermentation, 1027
Disability insurance, 6
Display refrigeration, 65
Dogfish (cape shark), 115
Dolphinfish (mahi mahi), 110,113
Doneness
deep-fried foods, 499
grains and legumes, 753, 755
grilled foods, 427
meat, poultry and fish, 3 6 6 -3 6 7
pan-fried foods, 496
pasta and noodles, 815
poached foods, 547
potatoes, 717
roasted foods, 432
sauteed foods, 490
vegetables, 649
Double boiler, 57
Dough. See also Yeast dough
laminated, 1056-1057
pasta, 8 0 8 -8 1 3
pate, 9 8 6 -9 8 7
phyllo, 1057
rubbed-dough method, 1048-1051
Dover sole, 102,1 0 4 ,4 1 2
Drawn butter, 232
Dressings, 364
Drop cookies, 1066,10 6 8
Drug abuse, 39
Dry goods, 199-235
fats and oils, 232-23 3
grains, meals, and flours, 2 00-211
legumes, 216-218
miscellaneous, 234 -2 3 5
nuts and seeds, 219-221
pasta and noodles, 212-215
purchasing system for, 200
salt, 2 2 6 -2 2 7
spices, 222 -2 2 5
sweeteners, 228-231
Dry milk, 183
Dry rubs, 3 6 2 ,4 2 5 , 430
Dry storage
chocolate, 234
coffee and tea, 235
guidelines for, 200
nuts, 219
salt, 226
sanitary conditions in, 35
spices, 222
wines and cordials, 235
Duchesse potatoes, 721
Duck. See also Poultry
carving, 4 3 5 -4 3 6
classes of, 95, 97
doneness of, 367
Dumplings
quenelles, 992
types of, 808
Durum flour, 202, 203
G for grilling, 6 5 ,4 2 4 ,4 2 6 , 658
Eating styles, in cultural cuisines, 12
Eclairs, fondant glaze for, 1121
Ecossaise sauce, 279
Edamame (green soybeans), 166,167
Edible portion cost (EPC), 19
Edible portion quantity (EPQ), 18
Education and training
for communications/media/
marketing/writing/food
styling career, 8
of culinary professionals, 4
staff development, 6
for teaching career, 8
Eel, 116
Eggplant, 150,151
Eggs. See also Egg whites; Egg yolks
allergies to, 37
in baking, 1016
in creamed batter, 1053,1054
in custard, 1092,109 4
in foamed batters, 1058-1061
and food safety, 35, 884
in forcemeats, 986 for souffles, 862
grades, sizes, forms, 198 for soups, 315, 318, 321, 325
hard- and soft-boiled, 8 4 8 -8 4 9 for sous vide cooking, 550
healthy substitutions, 25 for stocks, 254
in mousse, 1 0 9 6 -1 0 9 7 for vinaigrette, 8 8 0
omelets, 8 5 8 -8 6 1 Escargot (snails), 119
in pasta dough, 809 Escarole, 156,157
in pate a choux, 1 0 6 3-1064 Espagnole sauce, 268, 271
poaching, 8 5 0 -8 5 3 Essences (fumets), 254
Scotch egg, 279 fish, 255, 256, 259, 262
scrambling, 8 5 6 -8 5 7 Evaporated milk, 183
separating, 1020 Executive chef, 4 - 5 , 9
souffles, savory, 8 6 2 -8 6 5 Executive dining rooms, 8
as stabilizer, 1016 Expediter, 9
storage of, 3 4 ,1 8 2 Explorateur cheese, 188,189
structure and uses, 29 Extracts, 234
Egg substitutes, 198
Egg wash, 3 6 5 ,4 9 5 ,1 0 2 3 ,1 1 2 2
Egg whites, 29 f
in buttercream, 1109 Facultative bacteria, 33
in foamed batter, 1059 Fanning knife cut, 630
folding in, 949, 951 Farfalle, 212, 214
as forcemeat binder, 986 Farina, 201, 203
in meringue, 1020-1021 Farmer’s cheese, 186,187
in mousse, 9 4 8 ,1 0 9 6 ,1 0 9 7 Farro, 210
in souffle, 862 Fatback, pork, 88
whipping, 8 6 4 ,1 0 2 0 -1 0 2 1 ,1 0 9 6 , Fat, dietary, 24
1097 Fats and oils. See also Butter
Egg yolks in baking
as emulsifier, 29, 30 blended batter, 1052
in hollandaise sauce, 283, 284, creamed batter, 1053-1055
285, 286 foamed batter, 1060
in liaison, 2 4 9 -2 5 0 laminated pastry dough,
in mayonnaise, 884, 886 1056-1057
Elbows, 214 rubbed-dough, 1 048-1049,1050
Emince, 380 yeast dough, 1026
Emmentaler cheese, 192,193 barding, 4 2 9 ,4 3 4
Emperor grapes, 137 basting with, 432
Employees. See Staff for deep frying, 499, 732
Emulsifiers, 29, 30, 232, 8 80, 884 flavored oils, 883
Emulsion forcemeats, 986 for frying eggs, 854, 855
Emulsion sauces, 283, 284 function of, 30
Endive (Belgian), 156,157, 621 in marinades, 363
Endospores, 33 milk fat content, 182,183
English peas (garden, green), 166,167 for pan frying, 493, 495, 671
Enoki mushrooms, 161 parching rice in, 762, 766
Enriched yeast dough, 1026 for roasting vegetables, 662
Entrepreneurship, 9 in roux, 246
Epazote, 222, 224 for sauteing, 665, 666, 670, 729, 730
Epoisses cheese, 188 ,1 8 9 smoke point of, 30, 232
Equipment and tools, 4 3 -6 8 . See also types of, 2 3 2 -2 3 3
Knives; Pots and pans for vinaigrette, 880, 881
for baking potatoes, 722 Fava beans, 166,167, 217,1161
for boiling, 648, 715 Feet
cleaning and sanitizing, 37 calves, 83
for consommes, 306 pig, 88, 89
for deep frying, 497, 674, 676, 732 Fennel, 174,175
for forcemeats, 987 Fennel seeds, 224
Fenugreek, 222, 224
grinding, 68, 392 Fermentation
hand tools, 5 2 -5 3 milk, 184
large, 6 4 - 6 8 yeast dough, 1027,1029,1031
maintenance of, 7 Fermiere/paysanne knife cut, 618, 624
for mayonnaise, 884 Feta cheese, 186,187
measuring, 15, 54 Fettuccine, 213, 214
molds, 59, 61 Fiddlehead ferns, 174,175
for mousse, 948 Figs, 145
for pan frying, 493, 671 Filberts (hazelnuts), 219, 220
for pasta making, 809 File powder, 222, 224
pastry bags and tips, 1022 Filleting fish, 4 0 2 ,4 0 4 - 4 0 6 , 4 0 8 -
for peeling vegetables, 619 409, 412
for poaching (deep)/simmering, Filleting knife, 47
544 Fillings
for poaching (shallow), 540 buttercream, 1108-1110
for pureeing, 55, 318, 324, 664, 718 ganache, 1114-1115
rolling pins, 52, 53 for layer cakes, 1110
safety precautions, 64 for pies and tarts, 1122,1123,1124
for salad making, 888 sandwich, 9 3 2 -9 3 3
sieves and strainers, 55 Financiere sauce, 272
for simmering grains and legumes, Fingerling potatoes, 171,173
753 Fire safety, 38
SU B J E C T IN D E X 1205
Fish Food processor, 66, 68 Fruits. See also Citrus fruits; specific Gelation, 29,1016
allergies to, 37 for forcemeats, 987 fruits Gelato, 184
braising, 549, 572-576 for mousse, 948 browning of, 130,140 Genetically modified organisms
broth, 302, 303, 304, 311, 314 for pasta dough, 811 culinary uses of, 129 (GMOs), 11,128
butcher’s yield test, 2 0 -2 2 Food safety cutting. See Cutting fruits Genevoise sauce, 272
deep frying, 4 9 7 -4 9 9 in breading and coating, 365 dried, rehydrating, 645 Ghee, 232, 251
doneness in, 3 6 6 -3 6 7 cleaning and sanitizing for, 37-3 8 filling for pies and tarts, 1122 Ginger, 172,173, 224, 242
fabrication of, 4 0 2 -4 1 2 contaminants, 32 -3 3 heirloom, 11 Gla^age, 283, 284
filleting, 4 0 2 ,4 0 4 - 4 0 6 ,4 0 8 - of cooked/ready-to-serve foods, 35 as ice cream flavoring, 1095 Glace, 261
409, 412 in cooling foods, 35 locally grown, 11,128 Demi-glace, 268
goujonettes, 411 and cross-contamination, 33,70,3 6 5 oils and vinegars, infused, 883 Glacier, 9
for grilling, 427 in dry storage, 35 organic, 11,128 Glarner Schabziger cheese (Sap Sago),
gutting, 4 0 3 ,4 0 7 and eggs, 35, 884 pectin in, 1016 195
scaling/trimming, 4 0 2 ,4 0 3 in forcemeat preparation, 987, 9 8 8 production methods, 11,128 Glazes and glazing
tranche, 411 Hazard Analysis Critical Control salad, 8 9 0 -8 9 3 baked goods, 1118
freshness of, 100 Points (HACCP), 3 6 -3 7 selecting, 128 cookies, 1066
frozen, 101 and irradiation, 128 stone fruits, 142-143 fondant, 1119-1121
fumet, 255, 257, 259, 262 and milk pasteurization, 182 storage of, 3 4 ,1 2 8 -1 2 9 ganache, 1110,1114-1115
grilling/broiling, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 in poultry fabrication, 393 varieties of, 130-146 meat and poultry, roasted, 429
market forms of, 100 in refrigeration and freezing, 3 4 -3 5 yield calculation, 18 vegetables, pan-steamed, 654, 657
mise en place for, 361-367 in reheating, 3 5 -3 6 , 331 Fry chef (friturier), 9 vegetables, sauteed, 665, 666, 670
pan frying, 4 9 3 -4 9 6 sanitary inspection for, 34 Fryers (chicken), 97 Globalization of cuisines, 12
pan grilling, 427 in service, 37 Frying. See also Deep frying; Pan frying Globe onion, 162,163
en papillote cooking, 536 -5 3 9 in sous vide cooking, 549 eggs, 8 5 4 -8 5 5 Gluten development, in yeast dough,
poaching (deep), 5 4 4 -5 4 7 and staff hygiene, 38 Frying fats, 232, 854 1028,1029
poaching (shallow), 5 4 0 -5 4 3 of stuffings, 364 Fry pan (sautoir), 57, 59 Glutinous rice, 205
sauteing, 4 8 8 - 4 9 2 Food science Fumets (essences), 254 Goat cheese, 186,18 7 ,1 9 4
simmering, 5 4 4 -5 4 7 basics of, 27 -3 0 fish, 255, 257, 259, 262 Golden delicious apples, 130,131
steaks, 100, 410 of sous vide cooking, 548 Fungi, 32 Goose, 95, 97, 393
steaming, 532-535 Foodservice companies, 8 Fusilli, 212, 214 doneness of, 367
stewing, 577-580 Food slicer, 68 Gooseberries, 132,133
stock, 254, 255, 259, 262 Food storage. See also Dry storage; Gorgonzola cheese, 196,197
storage of, 3 4 ,100-101
stuffings for, 428
Frozen foods; Refrigeration
baked goods, 1059
g
Gala apples, 130,131
Gouda cheese, 192,193
Goujonette, 411
types of, 101-116 and cross-contamination, 33, 35, 70 Galangal, 172,173 Government regulations
Fish chef (poissonier), 9 dairy products, 3 4 ,182 Game birds, barding, 434 meat inspection, 70
Fish poacher, 57, 5 8 -5 9 eggs, 3 4 ,182 Game meat of milk production, 182
Flageolets, 216, 217 fish, 34 ,1 0 0 -1 0 1 barding, 434 workplace, 39
Flattop range, 64 food safety in, 3 4 -3 5 cuts of, 94 Grains
Flavorings. See Aromatic vegetables; fruits and vegetables, 3 4 ,1 2 8 -1 2 9 stock, 262 in broth, 314
Herbs; Seasonings; Spices herbs, 129 storage of, 70 cereals and meals, 7 5 6 -7 5 9
Flax seeds, 221 meat, 34, 70 Ganache cooking time for, 1162
Flounder, 102,1 0 3 ,1 0 4 mushrooms, 160 in layer cakes, 1110 forms of, 2 0 0 -2 1 1
Flour sanitary conditions in, 3 4 -3 6 making, 1114-1115 milled, 200
in baking shellfish, 34,117 in truffles, 1116 parching, 762, 766
blending method, 1052 Food styling, 8 ,1 0 Garam masala, 225 pilaf, 7 6 0 -7 6 3
creaming method, 1053-1055 Food writers, 10 Garbanzo beans (chickpeas), 216, 217 polenta, 759
rubbed-dough method, 1 0 4 8 - Forcemeats Garde manger risotto, 7 6 4 -7 6 7
1051 egg binder in, 29 forcemeats, 9 8 6 -9 9 2 salads, 895
barley, 210 and food safety, 987, 988 pate en croute, 9 9 1 ,1 0 0 7 ,1 0 0 9 simmering, 752-755
coating, 497 ingredients for, 9 8 6 -9 8 7 quenelles, 992 soaking, 752
oat, 209 mousseline, 986, 989 Garden peas (English, green), 166,167 in stuffings, 364
panada, 986 preparing, 9 8 7 -9 9 2 Garlic, 162,163 whole, 200
in pasta dough, 808 in quenelles, 992 aiioli, 887 Grana Padano cheese, 194,195
rice, 204, 205 stuffings, 364 chopping/mincing, 6 3 3 -6 3 4 Granny Smith apples, 130,131
in roux, 2 4 6 -2 4 7 types of, 986 measuring, 14 Granulated sugar, 228, 229
as stabilizer, 1016 Forelle pears, 140,141 roasting, 634 Grapefruit, 134,135
as thickener, 248,1016 Fork, kitchen, 52, 53 studding roast with, 434 Grapes, 136-137
wheat, 201, 202, 203,1026 Fowl (stewing hen), 97 Garnishes Grapeseed oil, 233
for yeast dough, 1026 Foyot sauce, 287 for appetizers, 947 Gratin dish, 61, 62
Fluke, 102,104 Freezing. See Food storage; Frozen for broths, 302, 303, 311, 312 Gratin forcemeat, 986, 991
Fluoride, 26 food for chowder, 320 Gratin potatoes (en casserole), 728
Fluting mushrooms, 629 Fregola sarda (Italian couscous), 215 for consomme, 307, 310 Gratin sauce, 272
Foaming mixing method, 1058-1061 French green beans (haricots verts), croutons, 889 Gravy, pan, 4 3 3 -4 3 4
Foams, gelatin in, 1016 166,167 fanning cut, 630 Great Northern beans, 216, 217,1161
Foie gras, 71, 95 French knife (chef’s knife), 46,47, for forcemeats, 986, 991, 992 Green beans, 166,167
Fondant, 1119-1121 619, 621 matignon, 243 Green cabbage, 149
Fontina cheese, 190,191 Fresno chiles, 164,165 mushrooms, fluted, 629 Green leaf lettuce, 154,155
Food allergies, 37 Frisee, 156,157 for pan sauces, 492 Green lentils, 216
Food and beverage costs, 5 Frittatas, 858 quenelles, 992 Green onions (scallions), 162,163, 621
Food and beverage managers, 10 Fromage blanc, 187 for sandwiches, 933 Green peas (English, garden), 166,167
Food-borne illness, 3 2 -37,128 Front waiter (ch ef de rang), 10 for soups, 316, 319, 322, 323, 326, Greens
Food chopper, 68 Frozen desserts, 184 331 bitter salad, 156-157
Food critics, 10 ice cream, 184,1095 for yeast breads, 1032 chiffonade cut for, 621
Food and Drug Administration (FDA), plating, 1133 Gaufrette/waffle knife cut, 628 cleaning and drying, 888
35, 36 Frozen foods Gelatin cooking, 158-159
Food industry baked goods, 1059 in aspic, 987, 995 Green salads, 8 8 8 -8 8 9
agricultural systems in, 11 fish, 101 in foams, 1016 Grenadins, 378
global culinary exchange in, 12 meat, 70, 71 in mousse, 948, 950, 951,1096 Griddles, 57, 65
and sustainability, 11-12 temperature for, 34 strength, ratios for, 952 Grill chef (grillardin), 9
Food mill, 55 thawing, 36 working with, 950 Grilled sandwiches, 933

SUB J E C T IN DEX
Grilling Hotels, career opportunities in, 8 in steaming, 533 sharpening and honing, 44, 4 8 -4 9
crosshatch marks, 426, 660 Hot water bath, 1092,1117 in stewing, 578, 677, 678 steeling, 5 0 -5 1
meat, poultry, and fish, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 HRI (Hotel, Restaurant and for stocks, 254, 255, 2 5 6 -2 5 7 storing, 44
pan grilling, 427 Institution) cuts, 71 for stuffings, 364 types of, 4 6 - 4 7
vegetables, 6 5 8 -6 6 0 beef, 7 8 -7 9 thickeners, 234, 248 Kohlrabi (cabbage turnip), 149
Grilling equipment, 65, 424, 426, 658 lamb, 93 vegetables, 147-177 Korean starch noodles, 213
Grinder, meat, 68, 392 pork, 89 for vinaigrettes, 880, 881 Kosher meat, 71
Grinding veal, 84 for yeast bread, 1026-1027 Kosher salt, 226
forcemeat, 987, 988, 989 Hubbard squash, 152,153 Institutional catering, 8
meat, 392
Grits, 206, 207
Groats, 209,1162
Human resource management, 6
Huntsman’s sauce (chasseur), 272
Hydroponic crops, 128
Intestines
beef, 77
lamb, 92
1Lamb. See also Meat; Meat fabrication
Ground meat Hygiene pork, 88 cooking methods, 92
doneness of, 367 and cross contamination, 33, 34 Intoxication, in food-borne illness, 32 cuts of, 9 0 -9 3
grinding, 68 and food-borne illness, 32 Iodine, 26 doneness of, 367
Grouper, 107,109 and kitchen safety, 38 Iodized salt, 226 grades of, 90
Gruyere cheese, 192,193 Iron, 26 leg of, boning, 3 8 4 -3 8 5
Guajillo chiles, 164
Guava, 145 i
Ice bath, 260
Irradiation, food, 128
Israeli couscous, 212, 215
Italian buttercream, 1108
rack of, frenching, 3 8 6 -3 8 7
variety meats, 92
Lamb’s lettuce (mache), 156,157

h
Habanero chiles, 164,165
Iceberg lettuce, 154,155
Ice cream, 184,1095
Ice milk, 184
Italian couscous (fregola sarda), 215
Italian meringue, 1021
Italian plums, 142,143
Laminated dough, 1056-1057
Langoustines (prawns, scampi), 125
Lard, 232
Haddock, 105,106 Icing Italienne sauce, 272 Larding roasted meats, 4 2 9 ,4 3 4
Hake, white, 105,106 buttercream, 1108-1110 Lasagne, 214
Half-and-half, 182,183
Halibut, 102,104
Ham
cookies, 1066
ganache, 1114-1115
for layered cakes, 1110
j
Jack be little pumpkins, 152
Layer cakes, 1110,1111-1113
Leaf lettuces, 154,155
Lean dough, 1026,1027
carving, 4 3 7 -4 3 9 procedure, 1112-1113 Jaggery, 229, 231 Leaveners, 234, 808,1016,1017
cuts of, 85, 87, 89 Idaho potatoes, 173 Jalapeno chiles, 164,165 Lecithin, 29, 30, 884
doneness of, 367 Immersion blender, 67, 68 Japanese eggplant, 150,151 Leeks, 162,163, 242
Handles, knife, 45 Immigration and Naturalization Japanese wheat noodles, 213 cleaning and cutting, 635
Hand tools, 5 2 -5 3 Service (IN S), 6 Jarlsberg cheese, 193 Leg cuts
Hand washing, 32, 33, 34 Induction cooktop, 28, 6 4 - 6 5 Jasmine rice, 204, 205, 752,1162 lamb, 90, 92, 93
Haricots verts (French green beans), Industrial agriculture, 11 Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes), veal, 82, 84
166,167 Infection, in food-borne illness, 32 172,173 venison, 94
Havarti cheese, 190,191 Information management, 5 Jicama, 172,173 Legumes
Hazard Analysis Critical Control Information sources, -1185-1191 Job’s tears, 211 in broth, 314
Points (HACCP), 3 6 -3 7 Infrared radiation, 28 Job training, 4 salads, 895
Hazelnuts (filberts), 219, 220 Ingredients. See also Dry goods; John Dory (St. Peter’s fish), 116 simmering, 752-755
Head waiter (ch efd e salle), 10 Seasonings Jowl, pork, 88 soaking, 752, 753
Healthy substitutions, 25 baked goods, 1016-1017 Judgment, of culinary professionals, 4 soaking/cooking times, 1161
Heart breadings and coatings, 362, 365, Juicing citrus fruit, 890 varieties of, 2 16-218
beef, 77 429, 493 Julienne/batonnet knife cut, 618, Lemon curd, 1110
lamb, 92 for broths, 302, 303, 304, 311, 622, 625 Lemongrass, 179,180
pork, 88 312, 314 Juniper berries, 222, 224 Lemons, 134,135
veal, 83 for chowder, 320 Jus, 433 Lemon sole, 102,103
Heat transfer for consomme, 306, 307, 308 Jus lie, 268, 2 6 9 ,4 3 3 Lentils, 216, 217,1161
in cooking process, 2 7 -2 8 dairy products, 182-185 in broth, 314
of pots and pans, 58, 60
Heavy cream, 182,183
Hedgehog cut, 892
in deep frying, 498
fish, 101-116
for forcemeats, 9 8 6 -9 8 7
k
Kabocha squash, 152
in rice pilaf, 763
Lettuce, 154-155, 888
Liability insurance, 6
Heirloom beans, 218 fruits, 130-146 Kale, 148,149 Liaison, 2 4 9 -2 5 0
Heirloom fruits and vegetables, 11 fruit salads, 8 9 0 -8 9 3 Kansas City barbecue, 431 Light cream, 182,183
Heirloom rice, 205 global sharing and exchange, 12 Kasha, 210, 211,1162 Lima beans, 167, 216, 217,1161
Heirloom tomatoes, 176,177 in grilling and broiling, 425 Kentucky barbecue, 431 Limburger cheese, 189
Hen-of-the-woods mushrooms healthy substitutions, 25 Kettles, 64, 254 Limes, 134,135
(maitake), 160,161 herbs, 178-180 Key limes, 135 Linguine, 213, 214
Herbs for marinades, 363 Kidney beans, 216, 217,1161 Liqueurs, 235
bouquet garni, 240, 241, 254 for mayonnaise, 884, 885, 887 Kidneys, 71 Liquid measurement, 15,17
in broths, 312, 314 measuring. See Measuring beef, 77 Liquids. See Cooking liquids
chopping, 620 ingredients fabrication of, 390 Liquifiers, in baking, 1016-1017
coatings, 362 meat, 7 2 -9 4 lamb, 92 Liver, 71
in fruit salad, 890 for mousse, 9 4 8 ,1 0 9 6 pork, 88 beef, 77
mincing, 621 nutrients in, 24, 25, 26 veal, 81, 83 fabrication of, 390
oils and vinegars, infused, 883 in pan frying, 494 Kirby cucumbers, 150,151 lamb, 92
sachet d’epices, 240, 241 in en papillote cooking, 537 Kitchen pork, 88
selecting, 129 for pasta dough, 8 0 8 -8 0 9 , 810 brigade system in, 9 -1 0 veal, 81, 83
storage of, 129 for pilafs, 760, 761, 763 research-and-development, 10 Loaf pans, 61, 63
varieties of, 178-180 in poaching (deep), 544, 545 safety in, 38 Lobster, 117,124,125
Hollandaise sauce, 2 8 3 -2 8 7 in poaching (shallow), 540, 541 Kitchen fork, 52 cooked, preparing, 4 14-415
Home meal replacement food service, 8 poultry, 9 5 -9 8 Kiwi, 144,145 doneness of, 367
Hominy, 206, 207,1162 for risotto, 764, 765 Kneading pasta dough, 811 live, preparing, 413
Hominy grits, 1162 in roasting, 429, 661, 662 Knife cuts. See Cutting vegetables and Lobster mushrooms, 160,161
Homogenization, 182 for sandwiches, 932 -9 3 3 herbs Locally grown produce, 11,128
Honey, 228, 230 sauce pairing, 291, 292 Knives Loin cuts
Honeycrisp apples, 130,131 in sauteing, 489 cleaning and sanitizing, 44 beef, 73, 76, 7 8 -7 9
Honeydew melon, 138,139 seasonings, 362 -3 6 3 palette knife, 52, 53 lamb, 90, 92, 93
Hors d’oeuvre, 946 shellfish, 118-126 parts of, 4 4 -4 5 pork, 85, 87, 89
Horseradish, 169, 224 for soups, 315, 316, 321, 322, 325, for peeling vegetables, 619 veal, 80, 82, 84
Hotel pans, 62 326 safe handling of, 44 venison, 94

SUB JECT IN D E X 1207

 Lotus root, 170
Lozenge/diamond knife cut, 618,
624, 626
m roasting. See Roasted meat and
Macadamia nuts, 219
Mace, 224
Mache (lamb’s lettuce), 156,157
McIntosh apples, 130,131
Mackerel, 110,112
Macoun apples, 130,131
Magnesium, 26
Mahi mahi (dolphinfish), 110,113
Maillard reaction, 2 8 -2 9 ,5 4 9
Maitake mushrooms (hen-of-the-
woods), 160,161
Maitre d’hotel, 10
Maize, 207
Malanga, 170
Maltaise sauce, 287
Management, 4 - 7
administrative duties, 5
of human resources, 6
of information, 5
of physical assets, 5
of time, 6 - 7
Manchego cheese, 192,193
Mandarin orange, 135
Mandoline, 66, 68, 727, 890
Mango, 144,145, 892
Manioc (yucca), 172,173
Manzana chiles, 164,165
Maple sugar, 228, 229
Maple syrup, 230
Marinades
basting with, 432
dry, 362
for grilled meats, 425
for grilled vegetables, 658, 660
ingredients, 363
for roasted/baked vegetables, 661,
662
Marjoram, 179,180
Marketing, career opportunities in, 8
Marmite, 57
Marrow, 72, 390
Masa harina, 206, 207
Mascarpone cheese, 186,187
Matelote sauce, 273
Matignon, 243
Matsutake mushrooms, 160,161
Mayonnaise, 8 8 4 -8 8 7 , 889
healthy substitutions, 25
Measuring ingredients
conversions, 16-17,1163-1165
converting recipe yields, 16
equipment and tools, 15, 54
equivalents, 1166
scaling, 1018,1030
systems of, 14-15
Meat. See also Forcemeats; Variety
meats (offal)
braising, 549, 572-576
broth, 302, 303, 304, 311, 314
butcher’s yield test, 2 0 -2 2
cuts of, 71
beef, 7 2 -7 9
game, 94
lamb and mutton, 9 0 -9 3
pork, 8 5 - 8 9
veal, 8 0 - 8 4
deep frying, 4 9 7 -4 9 9
doneness of, 3 6 6 -3 6 7
fabrication. See Meat fabrication
grades of, 70-71
grilling/broiling, 4 2 4 -4 2 7
inspection of, 70
kosher, 71
marinating, 363
market forms of, 71, 77, 82, 88
1208 S U B J E C T IN D E X
mise en place for, 361-367 Mincing vegetables and herbs, 621 Noodles
pan frying, 4 9 3 -4 9 6 garlic, 6 3 3 -6 3 4 cooking procedures, 8 1 4 -8 1 7
pan grilling, 427 onions, 6 3 1 -6 3 2 doneness in, 815
en papillote cooking, 5 3 6 -5 3 9 Minerals, 2 4 -2 5 , 26 dried varieties, 212-215
poaching (deep), 5 4 4 -5 4 7 Mint, 179,180 fresh, 8 0 8 -8 1 3
Mirepoix Normande sauce, 278
poultry in bisques, 327 North American Meat Processors
sauteing, 4 8 8 -4 9 2 in broths, 306 Association (NAMP), 70
simmering, 5 4 4 -5 4 7 preparation of, 2 4 2 -2 4 5 North Carolina barbecue, 431
sous vide cooking, 5 4 8 -5 5 2 in sauces, 268, 269, 270, 271 Northern spy apple, 130,131
steaming, 532-535 in stocks, 254, 255, 259 Nut allergies, 37
stewing, 577-580 Mirliton (chayote), 150,151 Nutmeg, 222, 224
stock, 254, 255, 256, 261, 262 Mise en place Nutrition
storage of, 34, 70 for baked goods, 1015-1022 basics of, 2 4 -2 5
stuffings for, 428 for dessert station, 1133 defined, 23
usable trim, 20 for grilling, 426 menu development for, 25
Meat fabrication, 376 -3 9 2 for meats, poultry, fish, and vitamins and minerals, 2 4 -2 5 , 26
boneless meats, 379 shellfish, 3 6 1-367 Nuts and seeds, 219-221
for braising, 574 for sandwiches, 933
chops, bone-in, cutting, 381 for stocks, sauces, and soups,
cutlets, cutting/pounding, 380 2 3 9 -2 5 2 O
for deep frying, 497 for vegetables and herbs, 6 1 8 -6 4 6 Oak leaf lettuce, 155
emince, 380 Mixer, standing, 67, 68 Oat bran, 208, 209
for grilling and broiling, 4 2 4 ,4 2 7 Mixing equipment, 6 6 -6 7 , 68 Oat groats, 209,1162
grinding, 392, 987, 989 Mixing methods, baking. See Baked Oatmeal, 209
lamb, leg of, boning, 3 8 4 -3 8 5 goods and baking, mixing Oats, 2 0 8 -2 0 9
lamb, rack of, frenching, 3 8 6 -3 8 7 methods Oblique/roll knife cut, 627
medallions, 378 Molasses, 228, 230 Occupational Safety and Health
for pan frying, 493 Molds Administration (OSHA), 39
pork loin, trimming/boning, 383 for custard, 1092 Octopus, 122,123
roast, tying, 3 8 8 -3 8 9 for forcemeats, 991 cleaning, 422
steaks, boneless, 382 for mousse, 948, 950 Offal. See Variety meats
for stewing, 577 for stenciled cookies, 1069 Offset spatula, 52, 53
tenderloin, trimming, 377 types of, 60, 61, 62 Oignon brule (burnt onion), 240
variety meats, 390 -3 9 1 Mollusks (shellfish), 117,118-121 Oignon pique (pricked/studded
Meat grinder, 68, 392, 987 Monkfish (anglerfish), 114,115 onion), 240
Meat slicer, 68 Monterey Jack cheese, 190,191,194, Oils. See Fats and oils
Mechanical leaveners, 1017 195 Oil sprays, 233
Medallions, shaping, 378 Morbier cheese, 190,191 Olive oil, 233
Media, career opportunities in, 8 Morel mushrooms, 160,161 Omelet pan, 57, 858, 860
Melon bailer, 53 Mornay sauce, 279 Omelets, 8 5 8 -8 6 1
Melons Mousse Onion family, 162-163
cutting, 893 dessert, 1096-1097 Onions
varieties of, 138-139 savory, cold, 9 4 8 -9 5 2 as aromatic, 240
Memphis barbecue, 431 Mousseline forcemeat, 986, 989, dicing/mincing, 6 3 1 -6 3 2
Menus 991, 992 in mirepoix, 242, 243, 244
dessert, 1132,1133 Mousseline sauce, 283, 287 peeling, 631
of food service companies, 8 Mozzarella cheese, 187 soup, 312
functions of, 14 MSG (monosodium glutamate), 226 varieties of, 162-163
hazardous analysis of, 36 Mud dab, 103 Open-burner range, 64
nutritional considerations in, 25 Mudfish (tilapia), 116 Oranges, 134,135
Meringue Muenster cheese, 190,191 Orecchiette, 212, 215
common, 1020 Muffins, creaming method for, Oregano, 178,180
egg whites, whipping, 1020,1096, 1053-1055 Organic agriculture, 11,128
1097 Muffin tins, 60, 63 Organ meats. See Variety meats (offal)
Italian, 1021 Mung beans, 217,1161 Orzo, 212, 215
in mousse, 1096 Mushrooms Ovens
as pie topping, 1123 cleaning and cutting, 640 combi, 65
Swiss, 1020-1021 fluting, 629 convection, 27, 65
Metal pans, 56, 57, 5 8 -5 9 , 6 0 -6 1 in mirepoix, 242 conventional/deck, 65
Metric measurement, converting to sauce, 273 microwave, 28, 65
U.S. system, 17 storage of, 160 pots and pans for, 6 0 -6 1
Meyer lemon, 134,135 varieties of, 160-161 Oven temperature, roasting, 428
Microorganisms, 32 Muskmelons, 139 Oxtails, 75, 77
Microwave oven, 28, 65 Mussels, 117,118,120 Oyster mushrooms, 160,161
melting chocolate, 1117 cleaning, 419 Oyster plant (salsify), 169,170
reheating vegetables, 680 doneness of, 367 Oysters, 117,118,121
Milk Mustard, in mayonnaise, 884 doneness of, 367
allergies to, 37 Mustard greens, 158,159 opening, 418
in baking, 1016 Mustard seeds, 222, 224 Oyster sauce, 279
in custard, 1092,1094 Mutton, 90
fermented/cultured products,
184-185
forms of, 182,183 n P
Pak choy (baby bok choy), 149
freshness of, 182 Napa cabbage, 147,149 Palm sugar, 229, 231
pasteurized/homogenized, 182 Navel oranges, 134,135 Paloise sauce, 287
in pureed potatoes, 719 Navy beans, 217,1161 Panadas, bread, 986
in white sauce, 275 Nectarines, 142,143 Pan frying
Milk fat (butterfat), 182 Noisettes, 90 meat, poultry, and fish, 4 9 3 -4 9 6
Milled grains, 200 shaping, 378 vegetables, 671-673
Millet, 210, 211,1162 Nonstick coatings, 56, 58 Pan gravy, 4 3 3 -4 3 4
 Pan grilling, 427 melons, 893 grades of, 85 simmering, 5 4 4 -5 4 7
Pan preparation onions, 631 loin, trimming and boning, 377, 383 steaming, 5 32-535
in baking, 1021 peppers and chiles, 639 market forms of, 88 stewing, 5 77-580
in bread making, 1027 pineapples, 893 prepared products, 86 stock, 255, 262
for creamed batters, 1053 potatoes, 715 salt, in puree soups, 321, 322, 323 storage of, 34, 70
Pans. See Pots and pans tomatoes, 6 3 6 -6 3 7 salt, rendering, 323 stuffing for, 364, 428
Pan sauce, 2 6 8 ,4 9 1 -4 9 2 , 657 tools for, 619 variety meats, 88 Poussin, 97
Pan-steaming vegetables, 6 5 4 -6 5 7 Penne, 212, 215 Portable refrigeration, 65 Powdered milk, 183
Pantry chef, 9 Pepitas (pumpkin seeds), 219, 221 Portion size Powdered sugar (confectioners’),
Papaya, 144,146 Pepper and peppercorns, 226, 227 of appetizers, 9 4 6 -9 4 7 228, 229
En papillote cooking, 5 3 6 -5 3 9 Peppers, chile. See Chiles converting, 16-17 Prawns (langoustine, scampi), 125
Paprika, 225 Peppers, sweet (bell), 164,165 edible portion quantity, 18 Presentation. See also Service
Parasites, 32 cutting and seeding, 638 optimum, 25 of appetizers, 947
Parboiling vegetables, 649 in mirepoix, 242, 243 in standardized recipes, 15 of frozen desserts, 1133
Parching grains, 762, 766 peeling, 639 Portobello mushrooms, 160,161 of hors d’oeuvres, 946
Parchment paper, 536, 542 Periwinkle, 119 Port-Salut cheese, 191 of mousse, cold savory, 948
Paring knife, 46, 47, 619 Permit fish, 112 Potassium, 26 of pasta, 818
Parisienne sauce, 278 Persian limes, 134,135 Potatoes of sandwiches, 933
Parisienne scoop (melon bailer), 53 Persian melons, 139 baking, 7 2 2 -7 2 4 of sauces, 292
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, 194,195 Persimmons, 146 boiling, 715-717 of soups, 331
Parsley, 179,180 Personal attributes, of culinary en casserole baking, 7 2 5 -7 2 8 Pressure steamer, 64, 532
Parsnips, 170, 242 professionals, 4 deep frying, 7 3 2-734 Primal cuts, 71
Partial coagulation, 1016 Petrale, 102,103 Duchesse, 721 beef, 7 6 -7 7
Passion fruit, 146 pH, 33 peeling, 715 lamb, 92
Pasta Pheasant, 98 pureeing, 718-721 pork, 8 7 -8 8
as appetizer, 947 Phosphorus, 26 roasting, 7 2 2 -7 2 4 veal, 8 2 -8 3
in broth, 314 Photography, career opportunities salads, 8 9 4 -8 9 5 Private clubs, career opportunities
cooking procedures, 814 -8 1 7 in, 10 sauteing, 729-731 in, 8
cooking time for, 1164 Phyllo dough, 1057 starch/moisture content of, 714 Professional network, 4
cooling/reheating, 818 Physical assets, management of, 5 steaming, 717 Progressive grinding, 988
doneness of, 815 Pickling salt, 226 stuffed baked, 722 Prosciutto, 85
dried, 212-215 Picnic cut, pork, 86, 87, 89 varieties of, 171,173, 714 Protein
fresh, 8 0 8 -8 1 3 Pie pans, 63 waffle/gaufrette cut, 628 and bacterial growth, 33
salads, 895 Pies and tarts Potato starch, 247, 248 denatured, 29
sauce pairing, 817 baking, 1124 Pots and pans food sources of, 24
service styles for, 818 blind baking shell, 1124 baking pans, 1021 Provolone cheese, 192,193
Pasteurization, 182 crumb crusts for, 1051 for boiling, 648, 715 Puddings, stirred, 1093-1095
Pastries, glazing, 1118,1121 crust, making, 1122-1123 for braising, 572 Pullman loaf pan, 61, 63
Pastry bags and tips, 1022 custard fillings for, 1123,1124 cast-iron, 56, 57 Pumpkin, 152,153
Pastry chef (patissier), 9 fruit fillings for, 1122,1124 copper, 56, 58 Pumpkin seeds (pepitas), 219, 221
Pastry dough rubbed-dough method, 1048-1051 for egg cooking, 850, 854, 856 Purchasing system, 5
laminated, 1056-1057 toppings for, 1122,1123 for induction cooking, 28 Pureeing
phyllo, 1057 Pigeon, 98 materials for, 5 6 -5 7 , 59, 60 cream soups, 318
for pies and tarts, 1048-1051, Pigeon peas, 216, 218,1161 omelet, 57, 858, 860 equipment, 55, 66, 67, 68, 318, 324,
1122-1123 Pignoli (pine nuts), 219, 220 for oven cooking, 6 0 -6 1 664, 718
Pastry flour, 203 Pike, walleyed, 107,108 for pan frying, 493, 671 mousse, 951
Pate Pilaf, 760 -7 6 3 for pan grilling, 427 potatoes, 718-721
dough, 9 8 6 -9 8 7 Piloncillo, 229, 231 for poaching (deep)/simmering, soups, 321-324
en croute, 991,1007,1009 Pin^age technique, 242, 245 544 vegetables, 316, 664
en croute, mold for, 61, 62 Pineapple, 144,145, 893 for poaching (shallow), 540 Purple potatoes, 171,173
forcemeats for. See Forcemeats Pine nuts (pignoli), 219, 220 for roasting, 61, 6 2 ,4 2 8 , 661
Pate a choux, 1062-1065 Pink beans, 1161 for sauteing, 4 88, 665
Pathogens, food, 3 2 -3 4 ,1 2 8
Pattypan squash, 150,151
Pinto beans, 218,1161
Piped cookies, 1067
seasoning, 57
for soup, 315
q
Quail, 98
Paupiettes, 411 Pistachios, 219, 220 for steaming, 532 Quatre epices, 225
Paysanne/fermiere knife cut, 618, 624 Plaice (rough dab), 103 for stewing, 677 Quenelles, 992
Pea(s), dried, 216, 218,1161 Plantain, 144,145 for stock, 57, 5 8 -5 9 , 254 Queso fresco, 186,187
Pea(s), fresh, 166,167, 641 Plate, beef, 77, 78 for stovetop cooking, 57, 5 8 -5 9 Quick breads
Peaches, 142,143 Plated desserts, 1131-1133 Poultry cooling/unmolding, 1059
Peanut allergy, 37 Plating. See Presentation braising, 549, 5 72-576 creamed batters, 1053-1055
Peanut oil, 233 Plums, 142,143 broth, 302, 303, 304, 311, 314 foamed batters, 1058-1061
Peanuts, 219, 220 Plum tomatoes, 177 butchers yield test, 2 0 -2 2 freezing, 1059
Pearl barley, 210, 211, 752,1162 Poaching classes of, 9 5 -9 8 rubbed-dough method, 1048-1051
Pearl onions (creamer), 162,163 deep, 5 4 4 -5 4 7 deep frying, 4 9 7 -4 9 9 Quince, 146
Pearl rice, 205 eggs, 8 5 0 -8 5 3 doneness of, 3 6 6 -3 6 7 Quinoa, 210, 211
Pears, 140-141 quenelles, 992 fabrication of, 3 9 3 -3 9 9
Pear tomatoes, 177
Pecans, 219, 220
Pecorino cheese, 185,192,193
shallow, 5 4 0 -5 4 3
Poblano chiles, 164,165
Poivrade sauce, 273
halving/quartering, 3 9 8 -3 9 9
supremes, 3 9 4 -3 9 5
trussing, 3 9 6 -3 9 7
r
Rabbit, 94
Pecorino Romano cheese, 185,194, Polenta, 759,1162 grades of, 95 disjointing, 4 0 0 -4 0 1
195 Pollock, 105,106 grilling/broiling, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 Rack
Pectin, 1016 Pomegranate, 146 kosher, 71 of lamb, 91, 92, 93
Peeler, 52, 53, 619 Pompano, 110,112 mise en place for, 3 6 1-367 of veal, 81, 82, 84
Peeling Pont L’Eveque cheese, 1 8 8 ,1 8 9 pan frying, 4 9 3 -4 9 6 of venison, 94
apples, 890 Popcorn rice, 204 pan grilling, 427 Radiation, 2 7 -2 8
asparagus, 642 Poppy seeds, 219, 221 en papillote cooking, 5 3 6 -5 3 9 Radiatore, 215
avocados, 644 Porcini mushrooms (cepes), 161 poaching (deep), 5 4 4 -5 4 7 Radicchio, 156,157
chestnuts, 640 Pork. See also Meat; Meat fabrication poaching (shallow), 5 4 0 -5 4 3 Radishes, 168,170
citrus fruits, 891 cooking methods, 8 7 -8 8 roasting. See Roasted meat and Rainbow trout, 110, 111
garlic, 633 cuts of, 8 5 -8 9 poultry Ramekins, 61, 62
mangos, 892 doneness of, 367 sauteing, 4 8 8 - 4 9 2 Ramps (wild leeks), 163

SU B J E C T IN D E X 1209
 Ranges
induction cooktop, 28, 6 4 -6 5
pots and pans for, 57, 5 8 -5 9
types of, 6 4 -6 5
Rapeseed oil (canola), 232
Rapini (broccoli rabe), 148,149
Raspberries, 132,133
Reach in refrigeration, 65
Reblochon cheese, 188,189
Recipe conversion factor (RCF), 16
Recipes
calculations, 1 6 -2 0
effective use of, 20
evaluation/modification of, 14
hazard analysis of, 36
healthy substitutions, 25
standardized, 15
Red cabbage, 147,149
Red delicious apples, 131
Red emperor grapes, 136,137
Red flame grapes, 137
Red globe grapes, 137
Red globe onion, 162,163
Red kuri squash, 152
Red leaf lettuce, 154,155
Red lentils, 216
Red potatoes, 171,173
Red snapper, 108
Reduced-fat milk, 183
Reduction sauce, 268
Refrigeration
of dairy products, 182
equipment, 65
of fish and shellfish, 100-101
food safety in, 3 4 -3 5
of forcemeats, 986
of fruits and vegetables, 129
of herbs, 129
of meat, poultry, and game, 70
of mousse, 952
of mushrooms, 160
of pasta dough, 809
of soups, 330
temperature for, 34
of yeast, 1017
Regence sauce, 273
Reheating
eggs, poached, 850
food safety in, 3 5 -3 6
pasta, 818
soups, 331
vegetables, 680
Reliance grapes, 137
Remouillage, 261
Research-and-development, career
opportunities in, 9 ,1 0
Resorts, career opportunities in, 8
Responsibility, sense of, 4
Restaurants. See also Menus
brigade system, 9 -1 0
career opportunities in, 8
dessert station in, 1133
management of, 5 - 7
menus, 14, 25, 36
sustainable, 12
Resting period, for roasted meat and
poultry, 29,4 3 2
Resting yeast dough, 1029
Retarding yeast dough, 1029
Rex sole, 103
Rhizomes, 171-173
Rhubarb, 144,145
Rib cuts
beef, 74, 76, 78
pork, 85, 86, 88
Rib roast, carving, 437
Rice. See also Grains
cooking times for, 1162
pilaf, 760, 763
risotto, 7 6 4 -7 6 7
1210 SUB J E C T INDEX
soaking, 752
varieties of, 2 0 4 -2 0 5 , 764
wild, 204, 205,1162
Rice beans, 218
Rice flour, 204, 205, 247, 248
Rice milk, 184
Rice noodles, 213, 214
Ricer, 55
Rice vermicelli, 213
Ricotta cheese, 186,187
Ricotta salata cheese, 192,193
Rigatoni, 215
Ring-top range, 64
Risotto, 764 -7 6 7
Rivets, knife, 45
Roast chef (rotisseur), 9
Roasted meat and poultry, 4 2 8 -4 3 9
barding/larding, 429, 434
basting, 4 2 9 ,4 3 2
carving, 4 3 5 -4 3 9
doneness, 432
oven temperature, 428
pan gravy with, 4 3 3 -4 3 4
resting, 29, 432
smoke-roasting, 428, 4 3 0 -4 3 1
vs sous vide cooking, 549
tying roasts, 3 8 8 -3 8 9
Roasted vegetables
garlic, 634
peppers and chiles, 639
potatoes, 722-724
procedures, 6 6 1 -6 6 2
Roaster chickens, 97
Roasting pans, 61, 6 2 ,4 2 8 , 661
Robert sauce, 273
Rock Cornish hens, 97
Rocket (arugula), 156,157
Rock salt, 226
Rock sole, 103
Roll/oblique knife cut, 627
Rolled oats (old-fashioned), 208, 209
Rolling pins, 52, 53
Romaine lettuce, 154,155
Romano beans, 166,167
Roma tomatoes, 177
Rome beauty apples, 131
Rondeau, 57, 5 8 -5 9 , 677
Rondelle/round knife cut, 618, 624,
626
Root vegetables, 168-170
boiling, 649, 650
Roquefort cheese, 196,197
Rosemary, 178,180
Rotisserie cooking, 428
Rough dab (plaice), 103
Round/rondelle knife cut, 618, 624,
626
Round cuts
beef, 72, 76, 78
lamb, 92
pork, 87
veal, 80
Roundsman (toumant), 9
Roux
blond/white, 274, 275
brown, 268
clarified butter in, 246, 251
in pan gravy, 433
preparation of, 2 4 6 -2 4 7
singer method, 276, 320
Royal sauce, 287
Rubbed-dough method, 1048-1051
Rubs, spice, 3 6 2 ,4 2 5 ,4 3 0
Ruby red grapes, 137
Russet potatoes, 171,173
Rutabaga, 169,170
Rye, 211
S vanilla, 1095
Sachet d’epices, 240, 241, 254, 259 vin blanc, 278
Safety, 6. See also Food safety white, 2 7 4-279
government regulations for, 39 Sausage, 86
kitchen, 38 Saute chef (saucier), 9
in knife handling, 44 Sauteing
with large equipment, 64 glaze, for vegetables, 665, 666, 670
and substance abuse, 39 meat, poultry, and fish, 4 8 8 -4 9 2
Safflower oil, 233 potatoes, 729-731
Saffron, 225 reheating vegetables, 680
Sage, 178,180 vegetables, 6 6 5 -6 6 7
St. Peter’s fish (John Dory), 116 Saute pan (sauteuse), 57, 58, 59, 488,
Salad 665
as appetizer, 947 Sautoir (fry pan), 57, 59
composed, 895 Savory, 180
croutons in, 889 Savoy cabbage, 147,149
dressing procedure, 889 Scales, 15, 54
fruit, 8 9 0 -8 9 3 Scaling, 1018,1030
green, 8 8 8 - 8 8 9 Scallions (green onions), 162,163, 621
legume, 895 Scallops, 117,118,121, 367
pasta and grain, 895 Scampi (langoustines, prawns), 125
potato, 8 9 4 -8 9 5 Scimitar, 46
vegetable, 894 Scones, rubbed-dough method for,
warm, 894 1048-1051
Salad dressing Scoring yeast dough, 1032
mayonnaise, 8 8 4 -8 8 7 , 889 Scotch egg, 279
oils and vinegars, flavored, 883 Scrambled eggs, 8 5 6 -8 5 7
for potato salad, 8 9 4 -8 9 5 Scungilli (conch), 119
vinaigrette, 30, 8 8 0 - 8 8 2 , 8 8 9 Sea bass, black, 107,108
Salad greens Seafood. See Fish; Shellfish; Squid;
bitter, 156-157 Octopus
lettuce, 154-155, 888 Searing
washing and drying, 888 braised foods, 574
Salad oil, 233 roasted foods, 428, 429, 432
Salamander, 65 stewed foods, 577
Sales, career opportunities in, 8 ,1 0 Sea salt, 226
Salmon Seasoned salt, 227
Atlantic, 110, 111 Seasoning pans, 57
coho/silver, 111 Seasonings. See also Aromatic
Pacific (king), 110, 111 vegetables; Herbs; Spices
sockeye/red, 111 for appetizers, 947
Salmonellosis, 32 for broths, 304, 312, 314
Salsify (oyster plant), 169,170 for consomme, 306, 307
Salt for deep-fried vegetables, 676
in bread making, 1027 for grilled/broiled foods, 425
types of, 2 2 6 -2 2 7 for sauteed foods, 490
Salt substitutes, 226 for steamed vegetables, 652, 653
Sandwiches, 9 3 2 -9 3 3 for stews, 577, 677
Sanitation certification, 39 for stocks, sauces, and soups,
Sanitizing. See Cleaning and sanitizing 2 4 0 -2 5 4 , 255, 269, 275, 316,
Santa Claus melon, 138 317, 322, 330
Sap Sago cheese, 195 types of, 3 6 2 -3 6 3
Sardines, 116 Sea urchins (uni), 118,119
Sauce a l’Anglaise, 279 Seckel pears, 140,141
Saucepan, 57, 58 Seeds
Sauce pot, 57, 58 toasting, 362
Sauces, 2 6 8 -2 9 2 varieties of, 2 2 0 -2 2 1
barbecue, applying, 4 2 6 ,4 3 0 Semolina flour, 202, 203
barbecue, regional, 4 3 0 -4 3 1 Serrano chiles, 164,165
bechamel, 274, 275, 279, 864 Service. See also Presentation
beurre blanc, 2 8 8 -2 9 0 , 291 answering guest’s questions, 15, 37
for braises, 572, 573, 576 brigade system, 10
brown, 2 6 8 -2 7 3 commitment to, 4
with deep-poached/simmered food safety in, 37
foods, 544 and food/sauce pairing, 292
flavorings for, 2 4 0 -2 4 5 styles of, 818
food pairing, 291, 292 Service information, 15
hollandaise, 2 8 3 -2 8 7 Sesame oil, 233
jus lie, 268, 269, 433 Sesame seeds, 219, 221
mise en place for, 2 3 9 -2 5 2 Seville orange, 135
pan, 4 3 3 ,4 9 1 -4 9 2 , 657 Shad, 113
pan gravy, 4 3 3 -4 3 4 Shallots, 162,163, 242
pasta pairing, 817 Shanks
plating of, 292 beef, 72, 76
purposes of, 291 ham, 87
with souffles, 862 lamb, 91, 92
for stews, 580, 678 veal, 80, 82, 84
stir-fry, 488 Shark, 115
thickeners for, 2 4 6 -2 5 0 , 268, 271 Sharpening stones, 4 8 - 4 9
tomato, 2 8 0 -2 8 2 Sheet pan, 62
 Shellfish chowder, 320 meat, poultry and fish, 5 32-535 Supreme sauce, 278, 291
allergies to, 37 cold, 331 en papillote, 5 3 6 -5 3 9 Sushi rice, 205
bisque, 325, 3 2 6 -3 2 9 cream, 317-319, 330 potatoes, 717 Sustainable agriculture, 11,128
broth, 303, 304 degreasing, 330 vegetables, 6 5 1-653 Sustainable restaurants, 12
chowder, 320 flavorings for, 2 4 0 -2 4 5 vegetables, pan-steaming, 6 5 4 -6 5 7 Sweating vegetables, 666, 680
doneness in. See Doneness in meat, guidelines for, 330-331 Steam-jacketed kettle, 64 aromatic, 242, 276, 762
poultry, and fish mise en place for, 2 3 9 -2 5 2 Steam table pan, 62 Sweetbreads, 71, 81, 83, 3 9 0 -3 9 1
fabrication of, 413 -4 1 9 puree, 321-324 Steel-cut oats (Irish, Scottish), 209 Sweet dumpling squash, 152
and food-borne illness, 32 reheating, 331 Steelhead trout, 111 Sweetened condensed milk, 183
grilling/broiling, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 thickeners for, 315, 316, 320, 325 Steels/steeling knives, 5 0 -5 1 Sweeteners. See also Sugar
market forms of, 117 Sour cream, 183,184 Stenciled cookies, 1069 artificial, 229
mise en place for, 361-367 healthy substitutions, 25 Stewing glazing vegetables with, 654
en papillote cooking, 5 3 6 -5 3 9 Sourdough starter, 1017 meat, poultry, and fish, 5 7 7 -5 8 0 types of, 2 2 8 -2 3 1
poaching (deep), 5 4 4 -5 4 7 Sous chef, 9 thickeners in, 2 4 6 -2 5 0 , 578, 677 Sweet peppers. See Peppers, sweet
poaching (shallow), 5 4 0 -5 4 3 Sous vide cooking, 5 4 8 -5 5 2 vegetables, 6 7 7 -6 7 9 Sweet potatoes, 172,173
quality indicators for, 117 South Carolina barbecue, 431 Stewing hen (fowl), 97 Sweet potato squash (delicata), 152,
sauteing, 4 8 8 -4 9 2 Soy allergies, 37 Stew meat 153
steaming, 532-535 Soybean oil, 233 beef, 76, 79 Swimming method of deep frying, 499
storage of, 3 4 ,1 0 0 -1 0 1 ,1 1 7 Soybeans lamb, 93 Swiss buttercream, 1108
types of, 118-126 dried, 218,1161 veal, 81, 82, 84 Swiss chard, 158,159
Shells, 215 green (edamame), 166,167 Sticky rice, 205 Swiss meringue, 1020-1021
Sherbet, 184 Soy milk, 184 Stilton cheese, 196,197 Swordfish, 114,115
Shiitake mushrooms, 160,161, 640 Spaghetti, 213, 214 Stir-frying, 4 8 8 ,4 8 9 , 6 6 9 -6 7 0 Syrup, 230
Shortening, 232 Spaghetti squash, 152,153 St. Louis barbecue, 431 simple, 1019
Shoulder cuts Spanish blue cheese, 196,197 Stockpot, 5 7 ,5 8 -5 9 , 254 Szechwan peppercorns, 227
beef, 75, 76, 78 Spanish onion, 162,163 Stocks. See also Broths; Soups
lamb, 91, 92, 93 Spanish rice, 204
pork, 87, 89
veal, 82
Spareribs, 86, 88, 89
Spas, career opportunities in, 8
in aspic, 987
basic formula, 255
for broths, 303
t
Table salt, 227
venison, 94 Spatulas, 52, 53 commercial bases, 261 Tail, pig’s, 88
Shredding/chiffonade knife cut, 618, Spatzle, 808 for consomme, 306 Taleggio cheese, 1 8 8 ,1 8 9
621 Spelt, 211 cooking times for, 262 Tang, knife, 45
Shrimp, 124,125,126 Spices. See also Seasonings flavorings for, 2 4 0 -2 4 5 , 2 5 4 -2 5 5 , Tangelo, 134,135
cleaning/deveining, 416 blends, 362 259 Tangerine, 134,135
doneness of, 367 in broths, 312, 314 glaces, 261 Tapioca, 247, 248
Sieves, 55, 254 mixes, 225 in pan sauce, 491 Tarragon, 180
Sifting dry ingredients, 1018 oils and vinegars, infused, 883 preparation of, 2 5 8 -2 6 0 Tart pan, 60, 62
Silicone mold, flexible, 61, 62 rubs, 3 6 2 ,4 2 5 ,4 3 0 remouillage, 261 Tarts. See Pies and tarts
Silk snapper, 107,108 sachet d’epices, 240, 241, 254, 259 for sauces, 270, 274 Tea, 235
Simmering toasting, 362 types of, 254, 2 5 6 -2 5 7 Teaching, career opportunities in,
broths, 304, 313 varieties of, 222 -2 2 5 Stone fruits, 142-143 8,10
cereals and meals, 756 -7 5 9 Spinach, 158,159 Storage. See Dry storage; Food storage; Teff, 211
consomme, 309 Spit roasting, 428 Freezing; Refrigeration Temperature
grains and legumes, 752-755 Split peas, 216, 218,1161 Stoves. See Ovens; Ranges conversions, 1164
meat, poultry, and fish, 5 4 4 -5 4 7 Sponge cake, 1021 Straight mixing method, for yeast of fats, in pan frying, 495, 673
sauces, 270 Spreads, sandwich, 932 -9 3 3 dough, 1027 of fats, in deep frying, 499, 676
soups, 317, 318, 323 Springform pan, 60, 62 Strainers, 55 food storage, 34, 70
stock, 258 Squab, 97 Straining in forcemeat preparation, 987, 989
Simple syrup, 1019 Squash bisque, 329 resting, for meat and poultry,
Singer method of soup making, 276, Hard-shell, 152-153 broth, 305 3 6 6 -3 6 7
320 Soft-shell, 150-151 consomme, 309 for sauce plating, 292
Skate, 114,115 Squash blossoms, 150,151 cream soup, 318 for soup reheating, 331
Skewers, 426 Squid, 122,123 pan gravy, 434 for soup service, 331
Skim milk, 183 cleaning, 4 2 0 -4 2 1 puree soup, 324 in sous vide cooking, 548, 549
Skimming stocks and soups, 258, 305, Stabilizers, in baking, 1016 sauces, 271, 277 for stuffing, holding, 364, 428
317, 323 Staff stock, 260 Tempered chocolate, 1116,1117
Slicer knife, 46, 47 kitchen brigade, 9 -1 0 Strawberries, 132,133 Tenderloin
Slicing equipment, 66, 68 legal responsibilities to, 6 Striped bass, 107,108 beef, 73, 79
Slurry, starch, 2 4 7-248, 268 personal hygiene of, 33, 34, 38 Striped eddy squash, 152 lamb, 92
Smoke point, 30, 232 service staff, 10,15, 37 Stuffings, 364, 367, 428 medallions, 378
Smoke roasting, 4 2 8 ,4 3 0 -4 3 1 substance abuse problems of, 39 Sturgeon, 114,115 pork, 89
Smokers, 65 training of, 6 Sugar trimming, 377
Smothering aromatic vegetables, 242 Stainless steel pots and pans, 56, 60 caramelizing, 28, 29 Terrines, forcemeats for. See
Snails (escargot), 119 Standardized recipes, 15 dry method, 1018 Forcemeats
Snapper, 107,108 Star anise, 222, 225 wet method, 1019 Texas barbecue, 431
Snow peas, 166,167 Starches in creamed batter, 1054 Thai chiles (bird), 164,165
Soaking grains and legumes, 752, 753 as emulsifier, 30 in foamed batter, 1058 ,1 0 6 0 Thawing frozen food, 36
Soba noodles, 213, 214 as thickener, 29, 247 -2 4 8 , 268, as liquefier, 1016 Thermal circulator, in sous vide
Soda bread, rubbed-dough method for, 1016 syrup, 230,1019 cooking, 550, 551
1048-1051 Star fruit (carambola), 146 types of, 2 2 8 -2 2 9 , 231 Thermometers, 5 4 ,4 3 2 ,4 9 7 , 550
Sodium, 26 Stayman winesap apples, 130,131 Sugarcane, 229, 231 Thickeners. See also Roux
Software systems, 5 Steaks Sugar snap peas, 166,167 in baking, 1016
Sole, 102,103,412 beef loin, 73, 76 Sugar substitutes, 229 for braises, 572
Sommelier, 10 beef rib, 74, 76 Sunchokes (Jerusalem artichokes), healthier options, 316, 326
Sorghum, 211 boneless, cutting, 382 172,173 ingredients, 234
Souffle dishes, 862, 865 chuck, 75, 76 Sunflower oil, 233 liaison, 2 4 9 -2 5 0
Souffleed omelets, 858, 860, 861 fish, 100, 410 Sunflower seeds, 219, 221 for sauces, 268, 269, 271
Souffles, savory, 8 6 2 -8 6 5 Steam, as leavening agent, 1017 Supremes for soups, 315, 316, 320, 325
Soups. See also Broths; Stocks Steamers, 57, 64 chicken, 3 9 4 -3 9 5 starch slurries, 29, 247-248, 268
bisque, 325-329 Steaming citrus, 891 for stews, 2 4 6 -2 5 0 , 578, 677

SUB JECT IN D E X 1211

Thompson seedless grapes, 136,137 sweating, 242, 276, 666, 670 Wild rice, 204, 205,1162
Thyme, 178,180 Vacuum bag, in sous vide cooking, trimming, 623 William pears (Bartlett), 140,141
Tilapia (mudfish), 116 548, 550, 551 usable trim, 19 Wine
Tilefish, 107,109 Valois sauce, 287 varieties of, 147-177 in pan sauce, 491
Tilting kettle, 64 Vanilla sauce, 1095 yield, calculating, 18 selecting, 235
Timbale mold, 62 Variety meats (offal) Vegetarian diet, protein in, 24 Wine steward (ch efd e vin), 10
Time management, 6 -7 beef, 71, 77 Veloute Wok, 59, 669
Toasting dried chiles, 645 fabrication of, 390 -3 9 1 in bisque, 326, 328 Wolffish, 105,106
Tokay grapes, 137 lamb, 92 in cream soup, 316 Wood
Tomatillos, 176,177 pork, 88 sauce, 274, 278 in grilling process, 424
Tomatoes storage of, 70 Venison, cuts of, 94 in smoking process, 434
in braises, 572, 575 veal, 81, 8 2 -8 3 Venus grapes, 137 Workplace
in broth, 314 Veal. See also Meat; Meat fabrication Vermicelli, 214 drug and alcohol abuse in, 39
concasse, 6 3 6 -6 3 7 cooking methods, 8 2 -8 3 Vermilion snapper, 107,108 government regulations in, 39
cutting, 637 cuts of, 8 0 - 8 4 Vertical chopping machine (VCM), 68 orderly, 7
heirloom, 176,177 doneness of, 367 Villeroy sauce, 278 safety, 6, 38
in mirepoix, 242, 245 grades of, 80 Vinaigrette, 30, 8 8 0 -8 8 2 , 889 World cuisines, and culinary exchange,
sauce, 2 8 0 -2 8 2 kosher, 71 Vin blanc sauce, 278 12
varieties of, 176-177 market forms of, 82 Vinegar, 234
stock, 262, 268 flavored, 883
Tombo (albacore), 111
Tongue
beef, 77
variety meats, 81, 8 2 -8 3
Vegetable chef (entremetier), 9
in mayonnaise, 884
in vinaigrette, 881, 882
y
Yams, 173
fabrication of, 390 Vegetable oil, 233 Viruses, 32 Yard-long beans (Chinese long beans),
lamb, 92 Vegetables. See also specific vegetables Vitamin A, 26 166,167
veal, 82 as appetizer, 947 Vitamin B-complex, 26 Yeast, 234
Tools. See Equipment and tools aromatic. See Aromatic vegetables Vitamin C, 26 types of, 1017
Tournedos, 378 baking, 661 -6 6 3 Vitamin D, 26 viability of, 1026-1027
Tourne knife, 46,47, 630 boiling, 6 4 8 -6 5 0 Vitamin E, 26 Yeast dough
Tourne knife cut, 624, 630 broth, 302, 303, 304, 311, 314 Vitamin K, 26 baking loaves, 1031
Toxins, 32 chowders, 320 Vitamins and minerals, 2 4 -2 5 enriched and lean, 1026
Tranche, 411 cutting. See Cutting vegetables and functions and food sources, 26 fermentation, 1027,1029,1031
Trichinella spiralis, 32 herbs Volume measure, 15,17 finishing methods, 1032
Trim, usable, 1 9 -2 0 deep frying, 6 7 4 -6 7 6 conversions, 17,1163 ingredients for, 1026-1027
Trim loss, 18 defined, 129 mixing methods, 1027-1028
Tripe, 75, 77 doneness, 649, 680 resting, 1029
Trout, 110, 111 dried, rehydrating, 645 W shaping, 1030
Truffle, black and white, 161 dried, toasting, 645 Waffie/gaufrette knife cut, 628 Yellow potatoes, 171,173
Truffles, chocolate, 1116 edible portion, 19 Walk-in refrigeration, 65 Yellow squash, 150,151
Trussing poultry, 3 9 6 -3 9 7 grilling/broiling, 6 5 8 -6 6 0 Walleyed pike, 107,108 Yellowtail snapper, 107,108
Tube pan, 63 guidelines, 680 Walnut oil, 233 Yield
Tubers, 171-173 heirloom, 11 Walnuts, 219, 221 as-purchased quantity, 18
Tubetti, 212, 215 locally grown, 11,128 Water bath, 57, 5 5 0 ,1 0 9 2 ,1 0 9 3 ,1 0 9 6 , butchers yield test, 2 0 -2 2
Tuna, 110,112 mise en place for, 6 1 8 -6 4 6 1117 edible portion quantity, 19
Turbinado sugar, 228, 229 oils and vinegars, infused, 883 Watercress, 156,157 of fruit and vegetables, 18
Turbot, 102,104 organic, 11,128 Watermelon, 138,139 recipe conversion factor, 16
Turkey, 97, 367 pan frying, 671-673 Weakfish, 108 Yield percent, 18,19
Turmeric, 222, 225 pan steaming, 6 5 4 -6 5 7 Weight measure, 15,17 Yogurt, 183,184
Turnip greens, 149 en papillote cooking, 536 -5 3 9 conversions, 17,1163 frozen, 184
Turnips, 168,169,170 peeling, 619 equivalents, 1166 Yucca (manioc), 172,173
Turtle beans (black), 216, 217 in polenta, 759 Wheat, 201, 203 Yukon gold potatoes, 171,173
production methods, 11,128 Wheat allergies, 37
pureeing, 664 Wheat berries, 201, 203,1162
U reheating, 680 Wheat bran, 201, 203 Z
Udon noodles, 214 roasting. See Roasted vegetables Wheat flour, 202, 203 ,1 0 2 6 Zest, citrus, 891
Ugli fruit (uniq), 134,135 salads, 894 Wheat germ, 201, 203 Zingara sauce, 273
Unemployment insurance, 6 sauteing, 6 6 5 -6 6 7 Whelk, 119 Zucchini, 150,151
Uniform, chefs, 38 selecting, 128 Whipped cream
Uniq (ugli fruit), 134,135 shocking to cool, 650 heavy cream for, 182,183
United States Department of soup, clear, 312 in mousse, 948, 949, 951
Agriculture (USDA), 36, 70, soup, puree, 321 stages of, 1019
80, 8 5 ,1 2 8 ,1 9 8 , 366 steaming, 651-653 Whisks, 52, 53
Usable trim, 1 9 -2 0 stewing/braising, 677-679 White sauce, 2 7 4 -2 7 9
U.S. measurement system, converting stir-frying, 6 6 8 -6 7 0 White stock, 254, 256, 260, 262
to metric, 17 stock, 254, 255, 256, 260, 262 Whole grains, 200
Utility knife, 4 6 ,4 7 storage of, 3 4 ,1 2 8 -1 2 9 Whole wheat flour, 202, 203

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SUB JE C T INDEX