BON APPÉTIT • VOLUME 60 NUMBER 1

T H E N E W H E A LT H Y 2 0 1 5

52 74
OH YEAH! GENERATION
Breakfast just got JUICE
a whole lot Meet the cult of
more interesting. cold-press devotees
RECIPES BY at L.A.’s Moon Juice.
ALISON ROMAN
76
60
OUR BEAUTIFUL BAR CODE
Packaged protein
LUNCHEONETTE bricks are for
What does a health bodybuilders and
food restaurant billionaires; these
look like these days? (delicious!) bars are
The chic El Rey for the rest of us.
in New York City. BY DAWN PERRY

62 78
TOAST POINTS SWEET-ISH
Avocado toast was Totally tasty, sort
just the beginning. of good for you:
Like the look of RECIPES BY the nut- and seed-
DAWN PERRY packed desserts you
this picturesque Oahu
beach? Just wait until should make—now.
you see the shave ice. 66 RECIPES BY
P. 42
VEG IN ALISON ROMAN
The textures!
The colors! The 84
flavors! These SHELF LIFE
vegetable sides will Pantry staples as hip
take center stage. as they are healthy.
RECIPES BY BY BELLE CUSHING
CLAIRE SAFFITZ
86
ALT-MAINS
Cali-cool, veg-forward,
Mediterranean-
spiced mains from
wandering chef
Sara Kramer.

ON THE COVER
Photograph by
Peden + Munk. Food
styling by Rebecca
Jurkevich. Prop
styling by Kim Ficaro.
PHOTOGRAPH BY ERIN KUNKEL

TOAST THE COVER!

Our kind of math: toasted seeded bread
+ labneh + olive oil–toasted hazelnuts +
salt and pepper + honey = Muesli Toast

4 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5
 B O N A P P E T I T. C O M

STA RT E R S T H E B A K I TC H E N C O LU M N S

15 29 12
THE FOODIST FAST, EASY, R.S.V.P.
Trend Forecast 2015: FRESH Reader requests and
Andrew Knowlton’s Briny back-pocket editor favorites.
calling for a 100% pasta, silky pan
chance of bacalao. sauce, and more. 42
BY ALISON ROMAN NAVIGATOR
20 Go for the beaches,
THE BA Q&A 36 stay for the loco
Big Eyes star THE TEST DRIVE moco: eating Oahu.
Krysten Ritter on Putting the latest
her very special diet. at-home juicers 97
BY ANDREW PARKS through their paces. PREP SCHOOL
BY JOANNA SCIARRINO Sprouts, spice
22 blends, and the fried
THEY’RE 38 egg our boss won’t
EVERYWHERE THE NEW stop talking about.
The best U.S. salts HEALTHY
from coast to coast. Get right with 104
our 5th annual Food BACK OF THE
24 Lover’s Cleanse. NAPKIN
LOVE LETTER BY SARA DICKERMAN
Talking shellfish
Whisk-y business trauma with director
with fashionista Tim Burton.
Leandra Medine. BY ANDREW PARKS

26
THE DRINK IN EVERY ISSUE
New year, new 10 editor’s letter
sommeliers. 102 recipe index
102 sourcebook

PHOTOGRAPH BY PEDEN + MUNK. FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KIM FICARO.
OJ is OK, but
a freshly made matcha
smoothie is how we want
to kick-start our day.
P. 52

HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? E-mail us at askba@bonappetit.com, or contact the editorial offices: Bon Appétit, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.
FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CHANGES OF ADDRESS, call 800-765-9419 (515-243-3273 from outside the U.S.A.) or e-mail subscriptions@bonappetit.com. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
 “Seed bars:
hemp, flax, chia,
sunflower, and pepitas Editor in Chief
bound together with ADAM RAPOPORT
brown rice syrup,
sometimes with figs Creative Director ALEX GROSSMAN
or cranberries.” Executive Editor CHRISTINE MUHLKE
—M.L. Digital Director STACEY C. RIVERA
Managing Editor GREG FERRO
Food Director CARLA LALLI MUSIC
Deputy Editor SCOTT DESIMON Restaurant & Drinks Editor ANDREW KNOWLTON
Senior Editor MERYL ROTHSTEIN
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Production Director CRISTINA MARTINEZ
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Assistant Production Manager ALEX DELANY
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editor’s letter
WATCH
ADAM AND ANDREW
KNOWLTON ON
Load up on BRAVO’S BEST NEW
the veg, like this RESTAURANT,
WEDNESDAYS AT
crisp broccolini.
10 P.M. (PREMIERES
JANUARY 21).

FRIDAY NIGHT LIGHT

Here’s how I know I just turned 45: Come Friday evening,
around 5:30, I’m not thinking about a drink at some Midtown
post-work bar, or that party I just got wind of—I’m thinking
about my kitchen island.
Yes, I am now that guy.
I can taste the well-chilled glass of Grüner I’ll pour myself,
I can hear the Avett Brothers album I’m going to play, and I
can feel the heft of the walnut cutting board I’ll pull from that
Get the recipes narrow cabinet next to the range.
for Adam’s meal at
bonappetit.com
Friday night is cooking night in the Rapoport-Shubuck house-
/edletter hold. No plans, no guests, no rush. Just Simone and me (and, well,
Marlon, who’s in bed by 8—or at least he’d better be). There’s a
bunch of quality ingredients piled on that island, a good but not-
too-pricey bottle of wine, and the time not just to enjoy a great
meal, but to enjoy the act of cooking it.
Of course, now that Simone and I are no longer in our twen-
ties, we try to be a little more sensible about what’s for dinner.
We still want something that feels special, but we don’t need all
the empty calories and unnecessarily rich dishes (sorry, creamy
polenta and pasta carbonara—it was a great run).
Now when I stop by the market, I double down on seasonal
vegetables. And when it comes to choosing a protein for the
meal, I think quality instead of quantity; I’ll splurge on a dry-
Restaurant aged rib eye or a bone-in Berkshire pork chop, sear it in a
portions
no longer fly at
cast-iron skillet, and serve it sliced atop a medley of fresh herbs.
Meat like this—well marbled and flavorful—goes a lot further. CUSTOM CUTTING BOARD FROM LIVEWIREFORM.COM, PRICE UPON REQUEST.
home. Meet
rib eye for two. Simone and I will split about 12 to 14 ounces of meat, which is
what a restaurant today might normally serve for one.
FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ROMAN. PROP STYLING BY BOBBI LIN.

For sides, I’m currently loving broccolini, quickly blanched

in boiling salted water, then doused with fresh lemon juice, a
splash of olive oil, salt, and some chile flakes. Bright and crisp.
On the other side of the flavor spectrum, I’ll roast a tray of
fennel wedges till beautifully caramelized.
And then? Well, we talk and eat and appreciate that we’re
exactly where we want to be—not at a party, but right at home.
This is 45.

ADAM RAPOPORT
EDITOR IN CHIEF

1 0 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5 PHOTOGRAPH BY JARREN VINK

r. s.v.p.
READERS SOUND OFF
DEAR BON APPÉTIT, I COULD EAT THE MONKEY BREAD AT
SALT AIR IN L.A. EVERY DAY FOR THE REST OF MY LIFE.
—DANIELLE WALSH, San Francisco
PECAN MONKEY BREAD
6 SERVINGS Infinitely better if made with
an all-butter puff pastry; we like Dufour.
CRÈME ANGLAISE
1 cup heavy cream
½ vanilla bean, halved lengthwise
2 large egg yolks
3 Tbsp. granulated sugar
MONKEY BREAD AND ASSEMBLY
Nonstick vegetable oil spray
½ cup pecans
½ cup granulated sugar
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
½ cup (packed) light brown sugar
¼ cup unsalted butter, room
temperature
½ cup golden raisins
1 package puff pastry, thawed
All-purpose flour (for surface)
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT : 1 jumbo 6-cup
muffin pan
CRÈME ANGLAISE Place cream in a small
saucepan and scrape in vanilla seeds.
Heat over medium until just simmering,
about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.
Whisk yolks and granulated sugar in a
medium bowl until pale and light, about
2 minutes. Gradually whisk half of cream
into yolk mixture. Then whisk mixture in
1 2 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5
Hangover
Helpers
Our Facebook
readers shared
their morning-after
cures. Take note
for New Year’s Day.
“Menudo, a cold beer,
and two Tylenol.”
IDA M., Whittier, CA
ILLUSTRATIONS: LARRY JOST (MONKEY BREAD, OCTOPUS); CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (HANGOVER, SMALL OCTOPUS). FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
“Full English breakfast—
kill or cure.”
bowl back into cream in saucepan. Cook BEVERLEY W.,
over medium-low, stirring constantly with Surrey, UK
a wooden spoon, until sauce is thickened
and coats spoon, about 5 minutes.
Transfer to a medium bowl; let cool.
DO AHEAD: Sauce can be made
3 days ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to
room temperature before serving.
MONKEY BREAD AND ASSEMBLY Preheat “Pho + Water =
oven to 350°. Coat muffin cups with Comeback.”
nonstick spray. Toast pecans on a rimmed KYUNGSOO STEFAN K.,
Seoul, South Korea
baking sheet, tossing occasionally, until
slightly darkened and fragrant, 8–10
minutes. Let cool; coarsely chop.
Stir granulated sugar and cinnamon
in a small bowl; set aside. Bring brown
sugar, butter, and ½ cup water to a boil
in a small saucepan over medium heat,
stirring to dissolve sugar. Pour syrup into “Taylor Ham, egg, and
muffin cups. Top with pecans and raisins. cheese on a hard roll.”
Gently roll out pastry on a lightly BARI LYN G.,
Morristown, NJ
floured surface just to smooth. For a 14-oz.
package, fold sheet in half. For a 17.3-oz.
package, stack sheets. Cut pastry into
an 8x6 grid to make 48 squares. Roll into
balls; toss in cinnamon sugar. Fill muffin
cups with balls; press lightly to compact.
Bake until pastry is golden brown and
puffed, 25–30 minutes. Let cool slightly,
“Any leftover pride from
but unmold before caramel hardens.
the previous night.”
Serve monkey bread, caramel side up, CORIN G.,
on a pool of crème anglaise. Manchester, UK
Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you?
E-mail us at rsvp@bonappetit.com, or use the
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Submissions become the property of Bon Appétit.

DEAR BON APPÉTIT,

THE OPTIMIST IN ATLANTA
HAS A CHARRED OCTOPUS
DISH THAT IS PHENOMENAL.
ANY GUIDANCE ON HOW
TO RE-CREATE IT?
—PHANZY PHAN, Atlanta

SPICY CHARRED OCTOPUS

6 SERVINGS Braising octopus might
sound advanced, but it’s as easy as
simmering a pot of beans. See sidebar
at right for more encouragement.

CHILI SAUCE
2 garlic cloves
1 1" piece ginger, peeled
1 red Thai chile
½ cup hot chili paste
2 Tbsp. fish sauce
1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1 Tbsp. gochugaru (Korean red OCTOPUS AND ASSEMBLY Heat 4 Tbsp. Tentacle I learned my trick
at Craft in New York
pepper powder) oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Tactics City. The Italians
1 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar Cook onion, carrot, and celery, stirring Before you tackle
swear by it: When
this eight-limbed
often, until softened, 8–10 minutes. Add slow-cooking in wine,
creature, here’s a
INGREDIENT INFO: Gochugaru can coriander seeds and paprika and cook, put the actual wine
pep talk from The cork in the braising
be found in Korean markets. stirring, until fragrant, 2 minutes. Add Optimist’s executive liquid to cook along
wine, vinegar, and 6 cups water; season chef, Adam Evans. with the octopus.
OCTOPUS AND ASSEMBLY with salt and pepper and bring to a boil. It’s one of those
SEA FOR YOURSELF tricks that no one
6 Tbsp. olive oil, divided, plus more Add octopus to liquid, reduce heat, “People think of
can explain, but your
for drizzling and partially cover pot. Simmer gently, octopus as a
octopus will come
1 medium onion, chopped turning octopus occasionally, until flesh restaurant dish, and out super tender.”
while it’s definitely
1 carrot, peeled, chopped is tender enough to cut with a spoon,
popping up on a PATIENCE LEADS
1 celery stalk, chopped 60–75 minutes. Transfer octopus to a ton of menus these TO PROWESS
2 tsp. coriander seeds platter with a slotted spoon; let cool. days, it’s easier “This slow braise is
2 tsp. hot smoked Spanish paprika Rub off skin with paper towels. Separate to prepare at home fail-proof and really
than you’d think.” impressive, too. Who’s
1 750-ml bottle Cabernet Sauvignon tentacles and cut into equal lengths.
ever been to a dinner
½ cup red wine vinegar Heat a large skillet, preferably cast FRESH ISN’T party where the host
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper iron, over medium-high heat. Toss (NECESSARILY) says, ‘Hey, I’ve got
BEST charred octopus on
1 5–6 lb. octopus, cleaned, head and octopus with 1 Tbsp. oil and season
“Almost all octopus the menu tonight’?
beak removed with salt and pepper. Cook, turning comes frozen, That’s the point.
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter occasionally, until charred, 8–10 minutes. and frozen actually This is a wow dish.”
1 cup torn fresh tender herbs (such Brush with chili sauce (you may not use cooks up more
tender than fresh.”
as basil, mint, and/or cilantro) all of it) and cook, turning occasionally,
1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice until sauce is deeply caramelized, about UNCORK A SECRET
½ cup plain whole-milk Greek 5 minutes. Remove from heat and toss “There are so many
yogurt with butter to coat. different theories
about how to keep
Toss herbs, lime juice, and 1 Tbsp.
octopus tender
CHILI SAUCE Purée garlic, ginger, oil in a small bowl; season with salt and and not rubbery or
chile, chili paste, fish sauce, lime juice, pepper. Swipe yogurt across plates tough—beating it
gochugaru, and vinegar in a blender and top with octopus, then herb salad; over a rock in Greece,
or massaging it with
until smooth. drizzle with more oil.
salt and whacking
DO AHEAD: Sauce can be made 1 week DO AHEAD: Octopus can be braised it with a daikon
ahead. Cover and chill. 2 days ahead. Cover and chill. radish in Japan—but

JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 1 3
 Y 20 1 5
JAN UAR

WHERE GREAT TASTE BEGINS

Grab a gyro!
Specifically
the chicken
one from
Souvla
in San
Francisco

THE YEAR
IN PREVIEW

2015

What will we be
eating, drinking,
and carrying on
about over the
next 365 days?
Restaurant and
drinks editor
Andrew Knowlton
consults his
crystal (high) ball

PHOTOGRAPH BY ERIN KUNKEL JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 1 5

 2 of
4

The FOODIST Before salt cod ends up in

croquettes and on
pizza, it must be soaked.
2015 TREND
EDITION

1
You’ll Get Wrapped
Up in Gyros
Done right, the gyro is a world-class
sandwich: a poem of crispy spit-
roasted meat wrapped in a pillowy pita and
bathed in bright, cooling tzatziki. And
we’re finally nailing it in the U.S. The four
takes from Souvla in San Francisco (see
below) and the inspired pork-belly version
at Publican Quality Meats in Chicago
remind me why a carefully crafted gyro was
my go-to lunch and dinner when I studied
in Greece. Thanks to them, I now have full
faith in America’s gyro-making prowess.
2
Souvla’s gyro spread (top to bottom): chicken NITRO
with pea shoots; lamb leg with harissa-spiked COFFEE WILL
yogurt; pork shoulder; white sweet potato
BLOW UP
COLD BREW

Just when you

thought you’d
figured out
iced coffee,
this latest take
(pioneered
in part by the
obsessives at
Stumptown)
hits coffee
3
counters. Pulled Bacalao:
from a tap,
the Catch of

DANNY KIM (NITRO, BACALAO, MARIJUANA, COCKTAIL)

nitro is cold
brew infused the Year
with nitrogen
to create Dried salt cod (bacalao) looks like a last-
a smoother, resort snack for those “beyond the wall” on
creamier drink. Game of Thrones. But rehydrated, its sub- PHOTOGRAPHS: ERIN KUNKEL (GYROS);
(Think Guinness
with a different
tle cod flavor and slightly chewy texture
kind of buzz.) have chefs (and me) craving it. Already
But before you atop pizza (Bouli Bar, SF), on a sandwich
guzzle three (Wallflower, NYC), and in ravioli (BOKA, Chi-
of them,
be warned:
cago), there’s no telling what crazy-delicious
They are ways bacalao will come to the table in 2015.
caffeine bombs.

When I used to ask chefs where they

4 Big-Deal were dying to eat, it would be Barcelona ENRIQUE OLVERA SEAN BROCK
Chefs Will Cosme, NYC Minero, Charleston
or Copenhagen. Now the answer is
Tataki al pastor Fried whiting taco
Feed You invariably Mexico. Their discoveries are
taco with pineapple with pickled green
Tacos tomorrow’s dinners, which means lots and cilantro tomato tartare
of newfangled and classic tacos like these:

1 6 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5
 THE NEXT BIG It’s only a matter of time (and legislation) before 6
5
HERB...IS HERB marijuana starts making its way onto restaurant
menus. Spaghetti with pot pesto, anyone? Shake Shack
Nothing too strong, of course. Just enough to alter your state of mind—and Will Conquer
taste buds. I mean, c’mon. Is it really any different than a bottle of Burgundy? the Planet
The burger-and-
fries juggernaut has
The more sophisticated marijuana agriculture
56 global locations
becomes, the more control growers will have over and more on the
all kinds of nuances and flavor notes. Let’s think about way. Hey, fast food
it the way we think about wine or cheese—as a product isn’t going away,
so why not make
that reflects the place where it came from—and see
it better tasting
what we can do with this in edible terms.” and responsibly
—FRANK FALCINELLI, FRANKIES 457, BROOKLYN sourced?

8
RESTAURANT
NAMES WILL
FOLLOW THIS
FORMULA

A gajillion new
places to eat will
open this year.
Here’s how many
YOUR NEW SECRET WEAPON?

7 CRÈME DE PAMPLEMOUSSE
I’m betting that this grapefruit liqueur
will be the next essential cocktail
of them will get
their (weirdly
similar) names.
fix—making every drink it touches a little YOUR SPIRIT
better. Its mildly sweet, immensely aromatic, ANIMAL
and distinctly refreshing flavor will make it or
your pour of the year. Want to kick-start my GRANDMA’S
prediction? Make a Mae Rose Cocktail tonight. NAME
or
FAVORITE
INGREDIENT
Combine 1  ½ oz. London dry gin (we like What else
MAE ROSE to do with
COCKTAIL Tanqueray), 1 oz. dry vermouth (preferably Dolin), grapefruit
½ oz. Campari, and ½ oz. grapefruit liqueur liqueur? See LUXURY
(such as Combier Crème de Pamplemousse Rose) in a cocktail shaker Prep School,
or
page 98.
and fill with ice. Stir until shaker is frosty, about 30 seconds. PROVISIONS
Strain into a coupe glass and garnish with a grapefruit twist. Makes 1 or
LUNCHEONETTE
OPTIONAL:
Add &, Co., or Sons

SEA OTTER & SONS

PAUL KAHAN TRACI DES JARDINS LUXURY
Dove’s Luncheonette, Arguello, San Francisco
Chicago ANISE HYSSOP
Carne asada taco with PROVISIONS
Brisket taco with green onions, rajas, beans,
chile vinaigrette and ranchera salsa ‘MA KNOWLTON’S
LUNCHEONETTE

JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 1 7
 4 of
4

FOODIST
11
The

On Tap? Third-Wave Beer Bars

2015 TREND
EDITION What comes after the brewpub? Stylish
beer-nerd nirvanas featuring specialized
glassware (no pint glasses!), sleek taps
made of wood or chrome, and destination-
worthy food. If Tørst in Brooklyn, Edmund’s
Bring bing
bread Oast in Charleston, and Dusek’s in Chicago
home with are any indication, these grown-up bars
Parachute’s should be your new spot for a cold one.
recipe; go to
bonappetit
.com/bing

PHOTOGRAPHS: DANNY KIM (BING BREAD, KOLACHE); ALEX LAU (TØRST); STUART MULLENBERG (GRASSHOPPER).
ILLUSTRATIONS BY CLAIRE MCCRACKEN. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
The Scandi
style at
Brooklyn’s
Tørst.

9 12
Everyone Will Be GOOD
BARS WILL Grasshopper
Craving Bing Bread SAVE BAD
COCKTAILS
at Pépé Le
Moko in
Portland, OR
Each year there’s one dish that spreads like
wildfire across menus. In 2015, I’m hoping it’s Chinese
In 2015 I’m going
bing bread, a.k.a. shaobing, a flaky flatbread often
to be drinking
eaten at breakfast. At Parachute in Chicago, it’s made more Long
with baked potato, stuffed with bacon and scallion, and Island Iced Teas,
served with sour cream butter. Chefs, please start copying! White Russians,
and other ’70s
throwbacks.
What bartenders
did for classic
YOU’LL LAP UP TONGUE

10
cocktails (better
Squid. Sweetbreads. Sunchokes. Uni. Remember those ingredients, better
ingredients you never thought you’d like but now dig? Well, technique), they’ll
add one more to that list: beef tongue. Perhaps you’ve do for these much-
already had it tucked inside a tortilla or grilled, sliced thin, and served maligned drinks.
with freshly grated horseradish. Unlike a lot of other daredevil foods Don’t laugh when
eaten for street cred, tongue is delicious. Heck, it’s a muscle, just like the cool kids
filet mignon. And get this: It tastes better. Now, I’m not asking you start sipping
to cook it (please don’t google!); I’m asking you to try it...you’ll like it! Amaretto Sours.

The one baked good I’ll stand in line for? Kolache. Based on fruit-filled pastries
13 Kolache from Central Europe, these filled dough pockets are a Texas-by-way-of-the-
Triumph Czech-Republic tradition. Whenever I’m in Houston, I grab a few stuffed with
Over things like jalapeño, cheese, and sausage. The kolache craze is spreading as
Cronuts spots like St. Philip in Austin and Kings Kolache in Brooklyn push the envelope
with fillings like black beans, corn, and chorizo. If you need me, I’ll be in line.
Smoked beef with cheddar and candied jalapeño is one of 20 varieties at Brooklyn Kolache Co.

1 8 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5
 The BA Q&A
Do you make resolutions? “Yes. Last year
I gave up wine and stuck with it. I also cut
out gluten, dairy, and fish.”
Wow. Why? “I was getting sick a lot and
couldn’t figure out why. I act and run a
production company—two very full-time
jobs. Everyone’s response to that is always,
‘Do less.’ Well, I need to feel amazing all
the time so I can do more. So I cut all those
things out and I haven’t been sick since.”
10 You gave everything up at once? “Yep.
I was scared because I wasn’t sure what
QUESTIONS
was left to eat. But it’s been fun getting
FOR
out of my box. The only time it totally
sucks is at the airport. The first time I flew,
I forgot to bring food from home and
had to eat a bag of apricots. It was awful.”
Krysten
Ritter
The star of the
film Big Eyes has
What would you tell someone who wants
to eat better without feeling deprived?
“There are great gluten-free pastas now—
especially fresh ones—that totally compete
with regular pasta. Pizza is the one thing
I haven’t figured out. Gluten-free, dairy-free
pizza just isn’t the same. The crust is either
too sweet or the texture is weird and gross.
Pho is another favorite.”
Living in L.A., you must juice. “Somebody
was making fun of the juice culture being
out of control in Los Angeles, and I was
like, ‘What does that even mean? So we’re
healthy!’ I’ve been into it for a long time.”
Any favorite flavor combinations? “All
greens. I don’t have a sweet tooth, so I stay
away from anything with too much apple or
agave. I’m more into kale, spinach, parsley,
cucumber, and celery. That’s my jam.”
You grew up on a farm in Pennsylvania.
What was that like? “There were cattle
and chickens, vegetables—it was a 100-acre

PROP STYLING BY NICK FAIELLA. MAKEUP BY JAMIE GREENBERG FOR MARK COSMETICS AT THE WALL GROUP. HAIR BY PAMELA NEAL FOR EXCLUSIVE ARTISTS USING AVEDA.
fifth-generation family-run farm. Just
given up wine, adorable, the kind you draw in kindergarten
dairy, gluten, with the barn and the tractor.”
and fish. But try What’s a dish you miss from your New
a fad diet? York modeling days? “The vegan ‘eggs’
Not a chance Benedict at Champs in Brooklyn. It’s
gangbusters. I actually miss living there
so much. There’s cool kids everywhere,
cool food, no stupid paparazzi.”
Have you ever done a fad diet? “No.
I’m not good at deprivation.”
Are you a dietary outlier in your family?
“I am, but they’re coming around. Getting
them to eat kale was mind-blowing.
For a while, everything in their fridge or
cupboard was from a commercial.”
—INTERVIEW BY ANDREW PARKS

WARDROBE STYLING BY JIMI URQUIAGA. DRESS BY GUCCI. FOR MORE DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
For video of Krysten dishing on her secret
What’s the blender soup, go to bonappetit.com/celebs
juice Krysten
is sipping?
See
“Generation
Juice,”
page 74.

THE VITALS
Age 33
Hometown
Shickshinny, PA
Most memorable
food prop
Antacids and
oatmeal on
Breaking Bad
Her big break
Being discovered
in a shopping
mall at age 15
Her dog’s big
break A PETA
commercial

PHOTOGRAPH BY JUCO
 1 3 5
They’re Everywhere AMAGANSETT J.Q. DICKINSON MAINE SEA
SEA SALT CO. SALT-WORKS SALT CO.
Sourced from Two siblings glean Sprinkle fudge with
Atlantic waters off these shimmery a few of these
Long Island, NY, crystals from an pebble-like clusters
this salt hits the ancient ocean made from the
palate like Pop underneath seawater of Buck’s
Rocks and tastes the Appalachian Harbor; they’re coarse
like a sea breeze. Mountains in enough to maintain
amagansett West Virginia. their crunch.
seasalt.com jqdsalt.com maineseasalt.com

2 4 6
NORTH FORK SAN JUAN ISLAND JACOBSEN
From Sea 1 SEA SALT CO.
These damp flakes
SEA SALT
These dense rocks
SALT CO.
If anyone can be
to Salty taste like swallowing are formed through called a salt icon,

Sea a mouthful of East

Coast seawater—in
solar evaporation
(rather than boiling)
it’s Oregonian Ben
Jacobsen, whose
Maldon isn’t the a good way. Crumble in greenhouses near-translucent
some onto fish. in Washington. flakes are beloved
only sea salt in northfork sanjuanisland by chefs.
the world, you seasaltco.com seasalt.com jacobsensalt.com
know. Some of
7
the best flakes ADMIRALTY SALT
are now found COMPANY
on our very own These flecks
are hand-harvested
watery shores from the cold
by JULIA KRAMER currents of the Strait
of Juan de Fuca off
2
Whidbey Island, WA.
admiraltysalt.com

8
BULLS BAY
SALTWORKS
Consider these
massive diamonds—
from Bulls Bay
near Charleston, SC—
8 the Papa Bear of
3
the sea salt family.
bullsbaysalt
works.com

7 4
7

FOOD STYLING BY VICTORIA GRANOF. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.

5
6

THE 2
UNITED 1
STATES OF 3
SALT 8

6 5

“We exclusively use Jacobsen for finishing dishes. Don’t use it to season pasta water or
blanch vegetables—that would be ridiculous.” —Chef Chris Cosentino, Cockscomb, SF

2 2 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5 PHOTOGRAPH BY DANNY KIM

 Love Letter

MATCHA
MADE IN
HEAVEN

On a frigid bamboo tea whisk. I dropped a ration when I realized Three steps
morning last If I had a dog of the powder into that my arm was to steamy,
February, a small named Toto, this is the bowl, filled it exhausted. foamy,
green-
black bag was when I’d tell him with hot water, and It’s now been nine mustachioed
left at my New York we weren’t drinking began the task months since the perfection:
City doorstep by Tazo anymore. of mixing the two. ultrahealthy matcha 1
a friend. In it were At the time, Until that point in and I first fell in love. Place ¼ tsp.
No Whisk, three items devoid
of instructions:
I knew almost
nothing about
my life, I had used
two whisks: metal
In that time, I have
attempted to take
matcha
into a small
No Reward a small container
holding a generous
matcha, the
powdered form
and electric. Now
I was presented
our relationship
to the next level—
bowl and
use whisk to
gently break
To make frothy, dose of jade-green of green tea, and with an archaic tool mastering matcha up clumps.
delicious matcha powder; a clear even less about that seemed to smoothies, matcha 2
magic, you gotta bowl, which I how it is prepared be a totem of tea yogurt, matcha Slowly pour
⅓ cup of not-
put some muscle surmised was for and consumed. drinking: Do it right cupcakes, and quite-boiling
drinking from; Still, this struck me or don’t do it at all. matcha meatloaf water into
into it. Fashion and a little white as an invitation to I whisked (a mistake), much the center
star and green tea ceramic stand that drink interactively, faster and more to the fascination of the bowl.
(You can also
convert Leandra looked like a and in spite of my assiduously as of those around me. use milk or
lemon squeezer, laughable inability the narrow, bendy The way I see it, your alt-milk
Medine explains of choice.)
on which rested to so much as prongs bounced in nine months you
what appeared to prepare a glass up and down, can effectively do 3
be a multipronged of water, I was creating an inviting two things: have a Whisk briskly
brush for dolls with willing to try. layer of foam. baby or get to know in an up-
and-down
crimped hair. This, With a small I deemed the tea your matcha really, motion (like
it turned out, was a serving spoon, ready for drinking really well. writing the
letters M and
W) until the
tea is bright
green and
frothy, 15–20
seconds.

Ceremonial
Grade
Matcha
Green Tea

FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ATTENBOROUGH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.

Set, $59;
panatea
green.com

Leandra
Medine
is the
founder
of man
repeller
.com, a
humorous
website
about
serious
fashion.

24 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5 P H OTO G R A P H BY T U U K K A KO S K I
 The Drink

JUSTIN VANN, 30 LEE CAMPBELL, 43 DANA FRANK, 36

Public Services bar, Roman’s and Ava Gene’s,
Houston Reynard, Brooklyn Portland, OR
Gets great wine into Sells natural Makes Aglianico feel as
unexpected places wine she believes in familiar as Cabernet

New Year,
New
Somms

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF JUSTIN VANN; ALEX LAU (CAMPBELL); COURTESY OF DANA FRANK. ILLUSTRATIONS BY CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (GREEN BOTTLES).
ON HIS BAR’S NAME
Good-bye haughty ON INDUSTRY EGO: ON THE
(AND MISSION): bow-tied OLD GUARD:
“I’m in this
“You see sommeliers of
for the “Mad props
product yore. The new
people to the somms
placements wave of young
and for the before me,
for Corona in women and men
relationships, but my
Fast & Furious is just as smart
not because generation
6, but no about wine—and
I wanted came up
one’s saying, won’t make you
to be ‘No. 1 drinking very
‘Drink more feel clueless for
sommelier’— different
Gamay.’ We’re not knowing
because styles of wine.”
that public a Verdicchio from
I don’t.” BEST ADVICE:
service a Vermentino Every wine on a list
announce- by BELLE CUSHING
BEST ADVICE: should be awesome
Like buttery
ment.” Chardonnay? Own
whether it costs
$30 or $300, says
BEST ADVICE: it, says Campbell. Frank. Set a viable
Can’t describe what She might not sell price range you’re
you want? Vann that exact wine, willing to spend
feels your anxiety. but it gives her a from the start! It’s
Just be honest about starting point not a faux pas.
where you’re coming to find something Sommeliers will
from. He’ll walk you’ll love. appreciate
you through it nice SHE’S DRINKING: the honesty.
and slow—with some Marie & Vincent SHE’S DRINKING:
movie analogies Tricot “Les Petites
to help you along. Le Piane Maggiorina
Fleurs” 2013, $25. 2012, $21. Pricey
HE’S DRINKING: How does no one Barolo’s not the
Luyt Clos Ouvert know about wines only great thing
Carmenère “La from Auvergne yet? Piedmont’s
Grande Vie Dure” got going, as this
2013, $24. The least Nebbiolo
“Chilean” Chilean blend proves.
red (think wild
berries, sweet herbs,
rioting taste buds).

26 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5
 BA

> R EC I P E S, T I P S, A N D M E N U I D E AS F RO M O U R E X P E RTS

W E ´R E I N TO them. They don’t

A N CH OV I E S add fishiness,
just a bright, briny
easy
fast, umami that boosts
everything from
fresh
easy, white bean stews
to vinaigrettes.
fresh If you still need
convincing, try
Confession: I used the pasta on page
to be anchovy- 31. It’ll make
averse. But once you regret all those
I discovered the anchovy-less years.
versatility of those — ALISON ROMAN
funky fillets, my
pantry has never
been without

Themaiden
lane.com
stocks some
wonderful
anchovies.

TEXT AND RECIPES BY ALISON ROMAN

PHOTOGRAPH BY DANNY KIM
FA S T, E A S Y, WHY WE... whil e c o o k ing
FRESH BAC O N W R A P p er fec tl y itsel f ).
> A s the b a c o n To keep the bacon
c o o ks, the fa t in place, wrap the
renders, basting slices around the
the tenderloin with tenderloin, tucking
flavor and ensuring ends underneath
it stay s ju ic y (a l l e a c h o t h e r.

Cheater’s Porchetta
Sometimes it’s okay to cut corners:
Here we make the classic Italian
dish with bacon and skip the
multiday air-drying process. It's not
traditional, but it sure is delicious

Weeknight Porchetta
ACTIVE 10 MIN - TOTAL 1 HR
4 SERVINGS

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped;

plus 2 heads, halved crosswise
1 Tbsp. coarsely chopped fresh
rosemary, plus 4 sprigs
1 Tbsp. fennel seeds, coarsely
chopped
1 ½ tsp. kosher salt
2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
Freshly ground black pepper
1 1 ½-lb. pork tenderloin
4 slices bacon

Preheat oven to 425°. Toss chopped

garlic, chopped rosemary, fennel seeds,
salt, and 1 Tbsp. oil in a small bowl;
season with pepper.
Rub garlic mixture all over tenderloin
(if you have time to do this in the
morning, great; refrigerate pork until
dinner). Scatter rosemary sprigs in
a large baking dish and set tenderloin
on top. Wrap bacon slices around
tenderloin, tucking ends underneath
so bacon stays put. Nestle halved heads
of garlic around tenderloin and drizzle
everything with remaining 1 Tbsp. oil.
Roast until an instant-read
thermometer inserted into thickest
part of tenderloin registers 145°
for medium, 40–45 minutes. Transfer
to a cutting board and let rest at least
10 minutes before slicing.
Calories 300 - Fat 15 g - Fiber 1 g

PHOTOGRAPHS BY NICOLE FRANZEN

 B U Y E R’S G U I D E 1 Spring for the 2 Anchovies are salty
W H AT Y O U N E E D pricier jar or tin: enough as is, so go
TO K N OW A B O U T You’ll notice a for the ones packed
ANCHOVIES difference. (Cheaper in oil, not salt. A Better
brands often have
more of the metallic
3 Some great Butter
brands: Rustichella
taste that gives d’Abruzzo, Merro, Want to let
anchovies a bad rep.) and Conservas Ortiz.
those little guys
take center
stage? Enter
anchovy butter.
Unapologetically
packed
with anchovy
essence, it’s
Little Fish, Mash anchovies into butter in a medium all you need to
wake up a loaf
Big Impact bowl; season with salt (if needed; taste
of crusty bread
Why is it that in the dead of winter, first) and pepper.
or a simple
everything seems to need a little Tear broccoli rabe leaves into
bowl of pasta.
help? Anchovy butter delivers bold 2" pieces; set aside. Thinly slice stems The recipe at
flavor to this back-pocket pasta ¼" thick. Heat oil in a large skillet over left makes extra,
medium. Add garlic and broccoli rabe so try using
stems and season with salt and pepper. the rest to sauté
Pasta with Anchovy Butter Cook, stirring occasionally, until stems radishes or
and Broccoli Rabe are tender, about 5 minutes. turnips, swirl
ACTIVE 25 MIN - TOTAL 25 MIN Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large it into creamy
4 SERVINGS pot of boiling salted water, stirring soups before
serving, or rub
occasionally, until al dente. Drain,
it onto a
1 3.5–oz. jar oil-packed anchovies, reserving ½ cup pasta cooking liquid.
chicken before
drained, chopped Add pasta, reserved broccoli rabe roasting.
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, leaves, ¼ cup pasta liquid, and 3 Tbsp.
Alison Roman,
room temperature anchovy butter to skillet (save remaining senior food editor
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper butter for another use). Cook, tossing
1 bunch broccoli rabe occasionally and adding more pasta liquid
1 Tbsp. olive oil as needed, until leaves are wilted and
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced sauce coats pasta, about 4 minutes. Toss
12 oz. campanelle or penne in grated Pecorino; season with salt and
3 oz. Pecorino or Parmesan, finely pepper. Serve pasta topped with shaved
grated, plus shaved for serving Pecorino. Calories 530 - Fat 18 g - Fiber 3 g
 FA S T, E A S Y, WHY WE...
FRESH SKIP NONSTICK
> We always use INGREDIENT
stainless steel for COMBOS
pan sauces. To get W E LOV E
those browned bits,
1
you need food to,
G arl ic +
well, stick.
t hy me +
c hic ken b rot h
( p i c t u re d )
2
Shal l ot +
t a r ra g o n +
white wine
3
O nion +
ro s e m a r y +
red wine

the meat is deeply and a teaspoon or if you don’t already reduced by about
Get Saucy browned and so of spices (such have a bottle open. half, 5 or so minutes.
A seared piece of meat might cooked through, as yellow mustard You don’t need STEP 4
sound boring. But when it’s drizzled then let rest. seeds or crushed to add much; about B R I N G BAC K
with a silky reduction? Always black peppercorns). ½ cup will do for T H E FAT
STEP 2
exciting. These are the keys to Cook, stirring to a sauce to serve
ADD THE When the liquid is
pulling off a pro-grade pan sauce A RO M AT I C S keep things moving, 4. While you’re at reduced, remove
Pour off any fat from until the vegetables it, throw in a few from the heat and
the skillet, while are softened sprigs of thyme or swirl in a knob of
STEP 1 skillet over medium- and the spices have
S E A R T H E M E AT keeping all those bits rosemary, maybe butter. This makes
high until almost bloomed, about
you worked so hard a little lemon zest if the sauce smooth,
Our favorites smoking. A hot pan 4 minutes.
for. No need to wipe you’ve got lemons creamy, and
include pork chops means a good sear,
and hanger steak, which is crucial to out the skillet—a STEP 3 lying around. Then restaurant-worthy.
but most quick- creating that crust. little fat is a good D EG L A Z E ! simmer, using a Season it with salt
cooking meats And avoid nonstick thing. Turn the heat Now’s the time to wooden spoon to and pepper, and, if
will work. Heat 1–2 at all costs: You'll down to medium add liquid. We love scrape up anything you’d like, a squeeze
Tbsp. neutral oil, need those browned and add aromatics using red or white stuck to the of lemon juice. Slice
such as grapeseed bits as the flavor (think one chopped wine for the acidity pan (also known as the meat and drizzle
or vegetable, in a base of your pan shallot, a couple it lends, but broth is fond), until the liquid the pan sauce over
large stainless-steel sauce. Cook until cloves of garlic) another great option is thickened and or serve it alongside.

3 2 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5
 FA S T, E A S Y,
FRESH
poaches with herbs and spices makes this
a real ‘two birds, one stone’ kind of soup.”
Hit Refresh
Maybe you’re coming down with
a cold, or you hit one too many
holiday parties. This comforting
but complex-tasting soup is just
what the doctor ordered
Brothy Poached Chicken
with Mushrooms and Fresh Chile
ACTIVE 40 MIN - TOTAL 40 MIN
4 SERVINGS
1 ½ lb. boneless, skinless chicken
breasts (about 3 large)
1 head garlic, halved crosswise
2 bay leaves
4 whole allspice
1 ½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more
“Building the broth while the chicken
Alison Roman
8 oz. maitake or shiitake mushrooms,
torn into bite-size pieces
1 fresh red chile (such as Fresno),
thinly sliced
1 1" piece ginger, peeled, finely
chopped
1 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar
1 Tbsp. soy sauce
Freshly ground black pepper
Sliced scallions and cilantro
sprigs (for serving)
Place chicken, garlic, bay leaves,
allspice, and 1 ½ tsp. salt in a medium pot.
Cover with 6 cups water and bring to a
bare simmer over high heat. Immediately
reduce heat to medium-low, cover
pot, and cook 8 minutes. Remove chicken
from liquid and let cool slightly, then
shred into bite-size pieces.
Strain stock through a fine-mesh
CANVAS RED-RIMMED PORCELAIN BOWL, COMINGSOONNEWYORK.COM
sieve into a clean pot; discard solids.
Add mushrooms, chile, ginger, vinegar,
and soy sauce to stock. Bring to a
boil; reduce heat and simmer, stirring
occasionally, until broth tastes rich
and flavorful, 8–10 minutes. Season
with salt and pepper, then add shredded
chicken and simmer just until meat is
warmed through.
Divide soup among bowls and
serve topped with scallions and cilantro.
DO AHEAD: Chicken can be
poached 2 days ahead. Let chicken
and broth cool separately. Wrap
up chicken and transfer broth to an
airtight container; chill.
Calories 330 - Fat 6 g - Fiber 3 g
 FOR
COMPLETE
CITRUS 1 Stick to different retain some chewy so peek in the NUTRITIONAL
SUCCESS types of lemons texture: ⅛" thick oven often and INFO FOR
A FEW and oranges; is the sweet spot. remove pieces THE RECIPES
TIPS FOR grapefruit and as they brown. IN THIS
3 The slices near
ROAST I N G limes are too bitter. S T O R Y, G O T O
the edge of the
CITRUS BONAPPETIT
2 You want pieces pan will roast more
.C O M / R E C I P E S
that are thin but quickly than the
thick enough to ones in the center,

Roast Your...Fruit?
Baking citrus at a high heat
caramelizes the sugars and adds
depth. It’s just the thing to bring
intrigue to salads and more (see
Prep School, page 99, for ideas)

Roasted Citrus and Avocado Salad

ACTIVE 25 MIN - TOTAL 25 MIN
4 SERVINGS

1 blood or Valencia orange, sliced

⅛" thick, seeds removed
1 Meyer or regular lemon, sliced
⅛" thick, seeds removed
4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
¼ small red onion, thinly sliced
2 Tbsp. fresh Meyer or regular
lemon juice
1 bunch watercress or arugula,
thick stems trimmed
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON.

½ cup fresh mint leaves

1 avocado, cut into wedges

Preheat oven to 425°. Toss orange

and lemon slices with 1 Tbsp. oil
on a rimmed baking sheet; season with
salt and pepper. Roast citrus, tossing
occasionally, until lightly charred in
spots and starting to caramelize, 10–15
minutes. This makes the citrus flavor
more complex. Let cool.
Meanwhile, combine onion and
lemon juice in a large bowl; season with
salt and pepper and let sit 5 minutes
(onion will soften a bit and get slightly
sweeter and less harsh).
Add roasted citrus to bowl with onion
along with arugula and mint. Drizzle
remaining 3 Tbsp. oil over; season with
salt and pepper and toss everything
to combine and coat.
Add avocado and very gently toss
until lightly dressed (you don’t want to
crush the avocado).
Calories 260 - Fat 22 g - Fiber 6 g

JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 3 5
 W E R AT E D
THE JUICERS ON
TEST DRIVE A S S E M B LY,
E X T R ACT I O N
Q U A L I T Y,
EASE, AND
C L E A N U P.

juice up
You don’t have to spend half
your paycheck on that kale-ginger
An extra-wide
concoction. We put at-home
tube swallows whole
juicers through the BA Test fruits and veg
Kitchen gauntlet to find the best without clogging.

by Joanna Sciarrino

At 9.5"
wide and deep,
it doesn’t
hog the counter.

The
Winner
BREVILLE JUICE
F O U N TA I N C O M PAC T

Tops for value and

space, this relatively Got carrot
small machine pulp? Mix
is unassuming yet a little
into baked
powerful. It’s intuitive goods for
to use—great for more fiber.
morning grogginess—
and its built-in pulp
container means one
less thing to wash. It
blazed through whole
carrots and bunches For the
of kale as well as recipe for
larger models, and this carrot,
we loved the foam- ginger, and
lime blend
catching filtered juice
from Moon
pitcher (not shown). Juice, go to
A rubberized bottom bonappetit
that stabilizes the .com/juice
machine while it runs
is a nice plus.
$10 0 ; b rev i l l e u s a .com

FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ATTENBOROUGH. PROP STYLING BY KATE JORDAN.

One simple speed keeps

things easy.

THE
RUNNERS
UP

Batch Master The Slow-Mo Pro

B R E V I L L E J U I C E F O U N TA I N P L U S
Breville clearly knows juicers; this model was
our second favorite. Its higher-capacity juice
and pulp containers are key if you’re a big-batch
juicer, and having two speeds lets you spin
everything from apricots to fennel. And it’s not
that much more expensive than our winner.
$150; brevilleusa.com
H U R O M S LOW J U I C E R
Masticating juicers (a.k.a. cold-press or slow
juicers) tend to be pricier and bulkier—and
yes, slower—but for juice bar regulars, they’re
a worthy investment. This one’s extremely
powerful, and its extraction process preserves
more of the nutrients lost in standard juicers.
$300; williams-sonoma.com

3 6 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5 P H OTO G R A P H S BY T U U K K A KO S K I
 THE NEW JOIN IN!
H E A LT H Y HEAD
OV E R TO
BONAPPETIT
.COM/CLEANSE
TO G E T

food lover’s S TA R T E D

cleanse
The key to getting the most
out of our 5th annual recharge?
A plan. Here’s how to make
it as doable as it is delicious
by S a ra Dicke r m an

At some point
each December,
as I pop another cube of
holiday-party Jarlsberg in
my mouth, I start to crave
a different kind of eating:
food that makes me feel
good. That’s when I gear up
for the Food Lover’s Cleanse,
the plan I designed with
nutritionist Marissa Lippert
and the BA Test Kitchen.
The cleanse is a two-week
healthy cooking program
that encourages you to
begin the year with enticing
whole-food meals. It kicks
off on bonappetit.com on
January 2 (we’ll share all the
recipes just after Christmas).
After leading the cleanse
for four years, I know it’s
B eet S oup
a commitment—I’m cooking w i t h C a r away.
quinoa and peeling parsnips Tu rn t he
right there with you (see page for the
rec ip e .
my diary on the site!). Luckily,
I’ve come up with a handful
of strategies to make the
cleanse more about loving
food and less about the labor.

3 8 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5 P H OTO G R A P H S BY T U U K K A KO S K I
 THE NEW S A N I T Y S T R AT E GY: F I N D A B U D DY
H E A LT H Y More than once, my friend Curtis has rescued me from the brink of cleanse fatigue
by cooking the dinner for the evening. I do it for him a few times too. Not only
does it cut back on the total number of nights spent washing dishes, it also reminds
me that healthy eating works best when it’s done in good company.

1
Cook in Big Batches
The cleanse includes simple do-
ahead work—a good strategy any-
time. Cook beets once and you’re
halfway to soups, salads, and more.

Big Batch of Oven-Steamed Beets

ACTIVE 15 MIN - TOTAL 1 HR 30 MIN

Toss 4 lb. scrubbed red beets (halved

if large) with 2 Tbsp. olive oil in a 13x9"
baking dish; season with salt and pepper.
Add herb of choice (a handful of thyme,
a rosemary sprig, and/or 2 bay leaves)
and ¼ cup water. Cover tightly with foil
(you want steam to build up) and steam
beets in a 425° oven until a knife slips
easily through flesh, 60–75 minutes. Let
cool in covered pan (to help loosen the
skins). Rub off skins with paper towels.
DO AHEAD: Beets can be steamed
3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.

Beet Soup with Caraway

FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ATTENBOROUGH. PROP STYLING BY KATE JORDAN. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON.
ACTIVE 45 MIN - TOTAL 45 MIN
4 SERVINGS

Heat 1 Tbsp. olive oil in a large saucepan

over medium heat. Cook 1 Tbsp. caraway 2
seeds, stirring, until they start to pop
and dance around in pan, about 1 minute. Shop Big W H AT T O TA K E
- Sho pping list
Quickly add 1 chopped medium onion, The day before the cleanse starts, (we of fer one
1 thinly sliced leek (white and pale-green I head to the grocery store. onl ine)
parts only), and a splash of water to keep - To te bags
I pick a store with a big selection— - An o pe n walle t
seeds from burning; season with salt The final tally
and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally,
great produce, seafood, Asian may make you
faint if you’re
until onion is soft, 5–7 minutes. condiments, and bulk bins—to used to
Add ½ batch chopped Oven- minimize stops. I buy most of the shopping small,
but don’t
Steamed Beets (see recipe) and first week’s ingredients (except forget: You’re
2 ½ cups water to pan; season with salt stocking up for
highly perishable items like shellfish) two weeks!
and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce
heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, until
and all the pantry goods I’ll need.
flavors come together, 15–20 minutes.
Let mixture cool slightly, then purée
in a blender in 2 batches, adding ½ cup
buttermilk to each batch. Gently heat
soup, adding water to adjust consistency
if needed. Serve drizzled with buttermilk
and topped with dill sprigs and cracked
pepper. Calories 220 - Fat 9 g - Fiber 8 g

4 0 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5

3
Make Over
Your Leftovers
Since you’ll be cooking
delicious food every night,
we figure your efforts
should stretch to more
than one meal. Most
lunches in the plan are
salads built on some
of the leftovers from
the previous night’s
dinner. To keep things
interesting, I depend
on these three elements:
S A N I T Y S T R AT E GY: B E F L E X I B L E
The cleanse offers plenty of structure about what to eat each day. It’s intended to make
things easy not burdensome. We curb refined sugars and starches and turn up the
volume on vegetables, whole grains, and foods rich in healthy fats. Within that framework,
you should feel free to play around. If your boyfriend ate the last of the walnuts, throw
in sesame seeds. If you draw the line at sardines, substitute a nice chunk of tuna or salmon.
The cleanse is a wonderful experience, whether or not you follow it to a T.
GOT
C O N TA I N E R S ?
Sin c e lun ch e s
in c o rp o rate
l e f tove rs ,
yo u’re going
to n e e d p l e nt y
A. TEXTURE B . F L AV O R C. FRESHNESS
of c o nt ain e rs .
Add more than Keep a bold You want something
I sto c k up o n
one exciting homemade to wake up your
s t a c ka b l e o n e s
textural element to vinaigrette on hand revisited food. That
in different sizes
your second-time- to give your midday can be as simple as
an d m ake sure
around ingredients, salads lushness a squeeze of lemon,
I have zip -top
like toasted nuts or and depth (and a sprinkle of minced
b a g s ( l arg e an d
chewy dried fruits. have one less thing dried apricots, or
small ) to store
A salad is twice to do on the spot). a handful of tender
wa s h e d s al a d
as good when I like to keep two herbs (parsley,
greens and herbs.
there’s something or three jars in the chives, celery
fun to bite into. fridge for variety. leaves—whatever).
4 A tub of g o c hu jan g
will bring life to
Lean Hard vir tuous foods—
dur ing t he cl e anse
on the and b eyond.
Condiments
The point is to
enjoy vegetables,
whole grains,
and other healthy
foods, so this
program relies on
condiments for a
quick boost. This
year, I’m loving
gochujang, the Gochujang-and-Sesame-
Korean chile paste Roasted Winter Squash
that gives foods ACTIVE 40 MIN - TOTAL 40 MIN
a sweet and earthy 4 SERVINGS
heat (see right).
A couple of others Whisk 2 Tbsp. sesame seeds,
to stock: Furikake, 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, 1 Tbsp.
a Japanese
gochujang (Korean hot
seasoning, adds
pepper paste), and 2 tsp. soy
richness to even
the simplest sauce in a large bowl. Slice
stir-fry (I’ll give you 1 seeded peeled butternut
a recipe, but squash ¼" thick; toss in
you can purchase sesame seed mixture. Divide
it too), and whole squash between 2 rimmed
grain mustard baking sheets, arranging in
makes any a single layer. Roast in a 425°
vinaigrette pop. oven, rotating sheets once,
until tender and browned on
some edges, 25–30 minutes.
Serve topped with sliced
scallions and flaky sea salt.
Calories 190 - Fat 9 g - Fiber 8 g
JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 41
> ISLAND GUIDE / oahu

navigator GET BA’S

TA K E O N
MORE OF OUR
TO P FO O D
C I T I E S AT
BONAPPETIT
.C O M / T R AV E L

surf, sun, and

shave ice
Oahu, Hawaii’s most populous island,
offers more than beaches: It’s also home to a
burgeoning food scene defined by local
ingredients and traditional one-of-a-kind treats

This i s
winter ? It
is if you’re
hanging out
on Oahu’s
legend a r y
North Shore.

Re p o r t i n g
by Re id
Nakasone,
D aw n Pe r r y,
and Asia na
Po nciano

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIN KUNKEL

N AV I G AT O R S AY H E L L O L I K E A L O C A L
> oahu
The shaka is the high five of Hawaii. It can mean hello,
good-bye, or thanks. But unless you’re a surfer or a
native, use it sparingly (and keep it loose and casual).

From left: Shave ice at Shimazu Store

in Honolulu; Diamond Head rising over
Waikiki Beach; Romy’s Kahuku Prawns
& Shrimp shack on the North Shore.

Known as “the You’ll find a core group of

Gathering Place” young and creative chefs,
among the islands, Oahu dedicated farmers, and Lunch after
boasts the best of what local artisans passionate a morning
on the North
Hawaii has to offer: pristine about preserving Hawaii’s Shore means
beaches, priceless views, very particular culture—and one thing:
pushing it to the next level. garlicky,
and a mix of old- and
buttery
new-school eats. Native That adage “the best food peel-and-
Hawaiian, Asian, and good you’ll have in Hawaii is eat shrimp
served from
ol’ American comfort food on the airplane” no longer a number
have come together to holds true. Oahu is the place of trucks.
to get your ono kine grindz Giovanni’s
create unique, laid-back riffs
(right),
on island-style soul food. (“good eats,” in local speak) Mackey’s, and
on. So relax, come hungry, Romy’s are
our favorites.
and lotion up. You’ve just Grab extra
landed in paradise. napkins.

> MAKE IT A COOKING VACATION H A WA I I F I S H C O .

Don’t neglect your rental’s kitchen—stock it with island staples Want to make tuna poke or
by hitting these vendors at the stunning Kapiolani Community grill mahimahi steak? The
College farmers’ market, open Tuesdays and Saturdays. sustainably sourced seafood at
this vendor is the island’s best.
 2
POKE
Get Defined
A simple dish of
Schooled raw fish, kukui
on nut, and sea salt,
Hawaiian often served
over rice, it’s sold
Classics everywhere from 3
There might be liquor stores to LOCO MOCO
a farm-to-table supermarkets.
Defined
movement While it may be
It’s rice,
happening on the ubiquitous, poke
a hamburger
island, but c’mon, is only as good
patty, an egg,
you shouldn’t miss as the quality of the mu
and gravy piled r

si
these standbys. fish used.

Fo
high. It is

c
DRINK
Get It Here to Hawaii what HERE
Kahuku poutine is to

Fo

w
r e
Superette, Canada: a gut- th e vi
where the fish is busting, kitchen-
always fresh. sink, beige-
colored dish
best enjoyed
1 late night or the
S H AV E I C E morning after
Defined a few too many.
Think of shave Get It Here
ice (never Anywhere and
shaved) as a 4 everywhere.
sno-cone that MUSUBI
you’re allowed Defined
to have past the The most famous
age of six. Eat version of this
it as you would Japanese-style
ice cream at rice ball (a.k.a.
the Dairy Queen: onigiri) is topped LA MARIANA SAILING CLUB
standing in with Spam. Yes, o n K e ’e h i L a g o o n
the parking lot. Spam. (Hawaii For a tiki bar time warp complete
Customize consumes the with rum punches and coconut
with abandon: most per capita shrimp, go on Thursday evenings
flavored syrups, when legendary blind pianist Ron
in the U.S.) Miyashiro takes the stage.
condensed milk, Typically, the
Taro fields at Kāko’o or adzuki beans. Spam is seared, SUNRISE POOL BAR
’Ōiwi farm in Kaneohe at The Modern
Get It Here placed atop
Waiola Store, rice, and Even locals venture into touristy
Waikiki for the postcard-worthy
Shimazu wrapped in nori. views at this chic poolside bar.
Store, or, for a Get It Here Despite its name, the bar is best
modern take, during sunset for happy hour.
7-Eleven or, for
MW Restaurant. a major upgrade,
Mana Bu’s.

Introduced by Portuguese workers,

the malasada doughnut is a local
obsession. Kamehameha Bakery’s
taro-root version is tops. Warning:
They open at 2 a.m. and often sell out.

ONO POPS F R A N K I E’S N U RS E RY H A WA I I B E E K E E P E R S ’ H A N A L E I TA R O & J U I C E C O .

Ideal for an après-beach snack, Oh, the exotic fruits you’ll see! A S S O C I AT I O N Poi, a paste made from cooked
these handmade paletas come Stock up on rambutans, matisia, Honeys offered vary, but the taro root, is eaten with
in flavors like Pickled Green and other produce you’re not cream-colored variety from kiawe almost anything. This farm is
Mango and Kalamansi Coriander. quite sure how to pronounce. mesquite trees is a standout. Hawaii’s best producer.

JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 4 5
N AV I G AT O R
C H A N N E L YO U R I N N E R K E L LY S L AT E R
> oahu
Everybody in Hawaii surfs. No, really—everyone.
You should too. Steve at Sea & Board Sports
Hawaii will have you fighting for waves in no time.

Honolulu Hot List

Hit the beach, get a spa treatment,
go for a hike, but if you’re not visiting
the capital for a meal or two, you’re not
getting the most out of your vacation.

TOWN
Dish: Gnocchi
with sunchokes,
capers, and lemon
“Local first, organic
Opah fish belly with
whenever possible,
Meyer lemon and seaweed with aloha always” has
Koko Head Cafe salsa verde at Town been Town’s mantra
since opening in 2005.
Chef Ed Kenney’s
unpretentious food
matches the casual
atmosphere.
KAIMUKI
SUPERETTE
D i s h : H e’e
(octopus) roll
Sister restaurant to
Town, this new kid on
the block has become
the neighborhood
fave for fresh salads
and sandwiches
using locally sourced
ingredients.
THE PIG
& T H E L A DY
Dish: Pho French
dip banh mi
What was first a
tasting-menu-only
pop-up and then
a popular farmers’
market stall is now a
Going for a hike on Diamond Head? (Yes, you are.) brick-and-mortar. All
hail the Le family’s take
Takeout from Kaimuki Superette is the pro move. on Vietnamese food.
M W R E S TA U R A N T
Dish: Mochi-
crusted opakapaka
Wade Ueoka and
Michelle Karr-Ueoka
revitalize Hawaiian
cuisine with a fresh
take on traditional
flavor combos.
AGU
Dish: Any ramen
With toppings from
Parmesan to seasonal
tebichi (braised
pig’s feet), Agu spins
the classic bowl
of Japanese noodles.
KO KO H E A D C A F E
D i s h : Ko k o M o c o
Chef Lee Anne Wong’s
brunch-only spot
updates comfort food
dishes, including
rib-sticking loco moco
using local grass-
fed beef, mushroom
gravy, and tempura-
fried kimchi.
For addresses
of the restaurants
and other spots
in this story,
see Sourcebook
on page 102.

MANOA ADOBOLOCO H A WA I I A N C H I P
> SOUVENIRS C H O C O L AT E H OT SAU C E C O M PA N Y
Try harder than These bean- The spicy, Light-as-air taro
macadamia nuts at to-bar sweets smoky Hamajang chips come
the airport. Show are from cacao version is made lightly salted or
friends you care with grown locally with the oh-so- in bold flavors
these omiyage (gifts). in Kailua. hot ghost pepper. like zesty garlic.

Anatomy of and meat. Customization is key, and LIVE LIKE

a Hawaiian at the best places, you can mix A LOCAL
ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON

and match two or more entrées. At No matter what

5 Plate Lunch
Ask any islander and she’ll happily
1 or Airbnb—skip
reveal her ultimate Hawaiian plate
4 lunch. In the no-frills island classic,
eaten day or night, you’ll find zero
vegetables but always two scoops of
rice (1), macaroni salad or slaw (2),
3
the legendary Rainbow Drive-In, the your preference—
“mix plate” includes a combination resort, condo,
of BBQ beef (3), boneless chicken
touristy Waikiki
(4), and mahimahi (5). For added
and stay in the
flavor, douse with chile pepper water mellow Kailua
or add a scoop of chili or gravy. or Haleiwa areas
Then loosen your belt and dig in. of the island.

2
 P RO M OT I O N

SERVED
TWO WAYS
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Photograph by Michael Graydon + Nikole Herriott (cover). Apple, the Apple logo, and iPad are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc.

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 BREAKFAST HAS
BECOME LEAP-OUT-
OF-BED EXCITING.
FROM NEW-SCHOOL
PORRIDGE TO
SAVORY PANCAKES,
THERE HAVE NEVER
BEEN SO MANY
DELICIOUS WAYS TO
RISE AND SHINE
By ALISON ROMAN
 5-GRAIN
PORRIDGE
WITH BEE
POLLEN,
APPLES,
AND
COCONUT
P. 56

KEY
TECHNIQUE

Make mornings
easy on yourself:
Cook a big batch
of hot grains on
Sunday and have
at it all week long.
Gently reheat
any amount in a
small saucepan
with your choice
of milk (or water);
add toppings just
before serving.

Watch our
porridge primer at
bonappetit.com
/newhealthy
“ Just like anything,
a breakfast bowl has
to be balanced. You
want diversity in flavor
and textures. Add nuts
or granola for crunch,
or goji berries for chew.”
— JARED VAN CAMP, OWEN + ALCHEMY, CHICAGO

LENTILS
WITH
CUCUMBERS,
CHARD,
AND
POACHED
EGG
P. 59
 CHICKPEA
PANCAKES
WITH
LEEKS,
SQUASH,
AND
YOGURT
P. 59

THE
GREENEST
SMOOTHIE
P. 56

KEY
TECHNIQUE

For smoothies,
we use frozen
fruit, not ice:
The flavors stay
concentrated
and the smoothie
gets frosty.
Anytime you’ve
got ripe bananas,
peel two or three
and freeze in a
zip-top bag.
The Greenest Smoothie
MAKES 2 A vegan’s delight, with a gentle
bonus buzz from the matcha.
1 banana, frozen, cut into 1" pieces
1 cup frozen pineapple pieces
1 cup fresh parsley, spinach,
or kale leaves
1 cup unsweetened almond milk
2 Tbsp. almond butter
2 Tbsp. flaxseed oil
1 tsp. agave syrup (nectar)
1 tsp. matcha (green tea powder)
½ tsp. finely grated peeled ginger
INGREDIENT INFO: Matcha is available
at Japanese markets and online.
Purée banana, pineapple, parsley,
almond milk, almond butter, flaxseed oil,
agave, matcha, and ginger in a blender.
Sweeten with more agave, if desired.
5-Grain Porridge with Bee
Pollen, Apples, and Coconut
4 SERVINGS If you don’t have each and
every grain listed, don’t stress. Use what
you’ve got—just bump up the quantity.
PORRIDGE
½ cup brown rice
½ cup quinoa
¼ cup amaranth
¼ cup millet
¼ cup wheat bran
½ tsp. kosher salt
ASSEMBLY
1 Tbsp. virgin coconut oil
¼ cup unsweetened coconut flakes
1 large sweet-tart apple (such as
Pink Lady), cut into ¼" pieces
¼ tsp. ground cinnamon
2 Tbsp. honey, plus more
Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)
and bee pollen (for serving)
DO AHEAD: Porridge can be made
5 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.
ASSEMBLY Heat coconut oil in a
medium skillet over medium-high. Cook
coconut flakes, stirring often, until
toasted, 2 minutes; transfer to a plate.
Add apple, cinnamon, and 2 Tbsp.
honey to skillet and cook, stirring
occasionally, until apples are browned
in spots and tender, about 3 minutes.
Serve porridge topped with
apples, coconut, sea salt, bee pollen,
and a drizzle of honey, if you like.
Chile-and-Olive-Oil-Fried Egg
with Avocado and Sprouts
2 SERVINGS To learn how to make
the perfect (seriously) olive oil–fried
egg, see Prep School on page 97.
1 cup sprouts (such as sunflower,
radish, or alfalfa)
1 tsp. fresh lime juice
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 large eggs
Crushed red pepper flakes
2 sprouted grain tortillas or
flatbreads
Hot sauce (for serving)
1 oz. feta
Avocado slices and
lime wedges (for serving)
Toss sprouts with lime juice in a small
bowl; season with salt and pepper.
Heat oil in a medium skillet over
medium-high. When oil is hot, crack both
eggs into skillet and season with salt and
pepper. Oil should be bubbling around
eggs from the start. Cook, rotating skillet
occasionally, until whites are golden
brown and crisp at the edges and set
around the yolk (which should be runny),
about 2 minutes. Add red pepper
flakes to oil and remove pan from heat.
Meanwhile, heat tortillas over a gas
burner until just warmed and slightly
charred in spots (or warm in the oven
or a toaster oven).
Mound sprouts on tortillas and
top with fried eggs. Spoon chile oil
from skillet around and drizzle with hot
sauce. Crumble feta over, and serve
with avocado slices, lime wedges, and
more hot sauce.
Smoked Salmon Breakfast
Salad with Crispbread
4 SERVINGS Everything good about a lox
and bagel sandwich (minus the bagel).
2 baby beets or radishes, thinly
sliced
8 thin slices red onion (optional)
6 cups mesclun
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. chopped capers
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
3 oz. smoked salmon or gravlax
¾ cup Neufchâtel or cream cheese
4 Wasa crispbread or toasted
pumpernickel slices
1 lemon, cut into wedges
Toss beets, onion (if using), mesclun,
lemon juice, oil, and capers in a large
bowl; season with salt and pepper.
Add salmon and gently toss to combine.
Mound salad alongside crispbread
spread with Neufchâtel and serve with
lemon wedges for squeezing over.

INGREDIENT INFO: Bee pollen is available Kale: Sautéed with Caponata: With a
at health food stores, some grocery PUT AN garlic and flecked thick piece of toast
stores, and online.
EGG ON IT! with fresh chiles Steel-cut oats:
We love fried Kimchi: Stirred into Mixed with soy sauce
eggs so much at brown rice and scallions
PORRIDGE Bring brown rice, quinoa,
BA that the above
amaranth, millet, wheat bran, salt, and headline is almost Pumpernickel: Paratha flatbread:
6 cups water to a boil in a medium pot. a mantra. They With a slice of Strewn with
can turn anything— cheddar and a mess Peppadew peppers
Reduce heat, partially cover, and simmer,
not just the usual of fresh herbs Mashed plantains:
stirring occasionally, until cereal is the
suspects!—into Mushrooms: Roasted Tossed with queso
consistency of porridge (softer and a stellar breakfast. with olive oil and a blanco and pickled
thicker than the usual bowl of oatmeal) Try one on... few sprigs of thyme red onions
and water is absorbed, 40–50 minutes.

56 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5
CHILE-AND-
OLIVE-
OIL-FRIED
EGG WITH
AVOCADO
AND
SPROUTS

RIFF
ON IT

This dish is
100 percent
customizable. Don’t
have tortillas? Use
toast. No sprouts?
Chop up some crisp
romaine. Out of
avocado? Smash
chickpeas or black
beans. And why
not swap in some
cheddar for the feta?
 “ I’ve always loved
salad for breakfast. It
just feels like a great
way to start the day:
It’s food you can eat
and walk away not
weighted down.”
— GERARDO GONZALEZ, EL REY, NYC

RIFF
ON IT

Any smoked or
cured fish will work
SMOKED in this salad. If using
SALMON fish with a more
BREAKFAST
SALAD assertive flavor, like
WITH peppered mackerel,
CRISPBREAD amp up the greens
P. 56 by adding a dab
of grainy mustard
before tossing.
 Chickpea Pancakes with
Leeks, Squash, and Yogurt
4 SERVINGS Weekday pancakes sound
like a stretch? Make the batter Sunday
evening and start the week strong.
Lentils with Cucumbers,
Chard, and Poached Egg
4 SERVINGS Calling all savory breakfast
people: This beans-and-greens egg
bowl is for you.

6 Tbsp. olive oil, divided 1 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar

1 medium leek, white and
pale-green parts only,
chopped
½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more
Freshly ground black pepper
1 cup grated peeled squash
(such as butternut or
kabocha)
1 large egg
¾ cup chickpea flour
¼ tsp. baking powder
½ cup plain yogurt
¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh
parsley
Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)
Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet,
preferably nonstick, over medium-high.
Add leek, season with kosher salt and
pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally,
until leek is softened and starting to
brown, about 4 minutes. Add squash
and season again. Cook, stirring often,
until squash is cooked through and
softened, about 4 minutes. Transfer
vegetables to a plate and let cool.
Wipe out skillet and reserve.
Meanwhile, whisk egg, chickpea
flour, baking powder, 1 Tbsp. oil,
½ tsp. kosher salt, and ½ cup water in a
medium bowl; season with pepper
and let sit 5 minutes for flour to hydrate.
Stir vegetables into batter just to coat.
Heat 1 ½ Tbsp. oil in reserved skillet
over medium-high. Add batter by the
¼-cupful to make 4 pancakes, gently
flattening to about ¼" thick. Batter
should spread easily—if it doesn’t, thin
with a little water. Cook until bottoms
are lightly browned and bubbles form
on top, about 4 minutes. Use a spatula
to carefully flip pancakes over and
cook until browned and cooked through,
about 2 minutes longer. Transfer to
a plate and tent with a sheet of foil to
ILLUSTRATION BY MAT WILLIAMS
4 large eggs
2 cups cooked black lentils,
WAKING UP
BREAKFAST
green lentils, or chickpeas
Jessica Koslow,
(from about 1 cup uncooked) champion of breakfast
2 scallions, thinly sliced at Sqirl in L.A., on
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped fresh keeping your morning
dill, plus small sprigs for serving routine anything but:
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest What’s your breakfast
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, divided philosophy? “I think
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper about breakfast like I think
about dinner; it deserves
2 small cucumbers, thinly sliced
the same attention.
1 Tbsp. za’atar, plus more for Take two extra seconds
serving to toast whole seeds and
1 Tbsp. olive oil spices—like cumin as
1 large bunch Swiss chard, ribs and a base for shakshuka—to
really solidify the flavor.
stems removed, leaves torn into A successful dish has a
2" pieces balance of salt, acid, and
1 garlic clove, finely grated a little bit of texture.”
(optional) How has breakfast
changed? “Places have
INGREDIENT INFO: Za’atar is available been doing amazing,
creative brunch for
at Middle Eastern markets and specialty
years, but now we’re all
foods stores, or online. recognizing, Wow, that
can happen every day.”
Bring about 2" water to a boil in a large What do you eat
saucepan; reduce heat so water is at in the morning?
a gentle simmer and add vinegar, which “Sweet porridge with
helps the whites coagulate. Crack an hazelnuts and jam or a
very simple open-faced
egg into a small bowl, then gently slide toast on rugbrød [Danish
it into water. Repeat with remaining rye bread] with avocado
eggs, waiting until whites are starting or smoked whitefish.”
to set before adding the next one What’s with all
(about 30 seconds apart). After about the savory options
3 minutes, whites should be set and on your menu?
“I love savory breakfast.
yolks still runny. Using a slotted spoon,
Keep your mind open to
transfer eggs to paper towels as they repurposing dinner food.
are done. If you cook squash, use
Combine lentils, scallions, dill, lemon that purée on toast.
zest, and 1 Tbsp. lemon juice in a medium Shishito peppers, carrots,
parsnips—any roasted
bowl; season with salt and pepper. vegetables can be seared
Toss cucumbers with 1 Tbsp. za’atar the next morning for
and remaining 1 Tbsp. lemon juice in a a savory hash. And don’t
small bowl; season with salt and pepper. be afraid of salad for
breakfast. I like greens
Heat oil in a medium skillet over
in the morning.”
medium. Add Swiss chard by the
What ingredients do

keep warm. Repeat with another
1 ½ Tbsp. oil and remaining batter.
Serve pancakes topped with yogurt,
parsley, sea salt, and pepper.
DO AHEAD: Leek and squash can be
cooked 2 days ahead; cover and
chill. Batter can be made 1 day ahead;
cover and chill.
handful, tossing and letting it cook down
a bit before adding more, and cook
until tender; season with salt and pepper.
Stir in garlic, if using, and set aside.
Divide lentils among bowls and top
each with some chard, cucumbers,
a few dill sprigs, and a poached egg.
Sprinkle with more za’atar.
you always keep on
hand? “Organic eggs,
leeks, chives, fresh herbs,
good salt. Brown rice is a
staple, used in everything
from porridge to a rice
bowl, or fried until crisp
for breakfast salad. Also,
good butter and olive oil.”
WHAT DOES TODAY’S
NEW HEALTHY
RESTAURANT LOOK
LIKE? CHECK OUT
NEW YORK’S EL REY.
THE STYLISH SPOT IS
A BA FAVORITE—AND
A TOTAL TRENDSETTER For a video visit
to El Rey, go to
bonappetit.com
/newhealthy

Lexie
Smith,
baker
 This is
where the
magic happens: a
microscopic kitchen
that churns out
a breakfast-and-
lunch-mash-up
menu.

The super-
cute space has
a California vibe
with white walls,
clean lines,
and a little bit
of neon.

Owner
Nicholas
Morgenstern
(left, with Hazel)
and head chef
Gerardo
Gonzalez.

Their
avocado Handwritten
“Del Sur” with menu? Check.
chimichurri combines Houseplants?
three El Rey (and BA) Yup, got
favorites: egg, those, too.
avocado, and
green sauce.

Customers order
at the counter
whether they’re
getting to-go coffee
or staying for lunch.
The 15 communal
seats ensure that
you meet your
neighbors.
Toast Points
 Sweet
and Salty Figs
Toasted seeded
bread + Neufchâtel
cheese + sliced ripe figs
+ honey + olive oil
+ flaky sea salt

THE RISE OF “TOAST” AS A FOOD GROUP MAY SOUND SILLY, BUT TRUST US: THERE’S NO BETTER (OR EASIER) WAY TO
SHOW OFF SERIOUSLY FRESH, VIBRANT INGREDIENTS. IF YOU ASK US, IT’S THE BEST THING SINCE, WELL, YOU KNOW…
Recipes by DAWN PERRY
THE
ELEMENTS Pickled
OF TOAST Peppers and
Boquerónes
How is “Toast” toasted crusty bread +
different from, well, piquillo peppers + Sherry
toast? Here’s how:
vinegar + boquerónes +
chopped parsley, garlic,
The Bread:
lemon zest, and
Slabs of chewy,
olive oil
open-crumbed breads
like sourdough or
miche are ideal for
hearty toppings
(think ricotta, kale, and
‘shrooms), while thin
slices of dense, dark,
grainy loaves (like
those indestructible
“health” breads)
work best with high-
impact, low-profile
adornments like radish
slivers and trout roe.
The Fatty Base:
Starch demands
fat! Whether it’s
a schmear of earthy
nut butter, a dollop Trout Roe
of thick yogurt, or a and Turnips
hearty drizzle of olive toasted dark rye +
oil, all great toast softened cream cheese
requires a base layer
+ trout roe + thinly sliced
of something rich and
baby white turnips or
satisfying. Without
radishes + snipped
it, it’s just…dry toast.
chives
The Toppings:
The rules? There are
none. You can go Bresaola
elegant and spare and Cheddar
(slices of cucumber,
toasted pumpernickel
delicate ribbons of
+ whole grain mustard
smoked fish) or pile
a whole herby bean + sliced sharp cheddar
salad up on that thing. + bresaola + slivered
If the ingredients cornichons + salt
work together and and pepper
the bread can handle
them, that’s really
all you need.
The Other Toppings:
Whether it’s for
textural or visual
oomph, another
drizzle, crumble, or
sprinkle of something
is a pro move—a bit
of honey, some sliced
cornichons for bite…
and a schmancy
finishing salt is always
a good idea for savory
and sweet toasts alike.
—Amiel Stanek
 Your New
Avocado Toast
toasted sourdough +
tahini + smashed avocado
+ sliced cucumber + lime
juice + olive oil + salt and
pepper + crushed red Ricotta, Kale,
pepper flakes and Mushroom
toasted crusty bread
+ ricotta + sautéed
mushrooms and kale with
garlic and chile + white
wine vinegar + salt
and pepper

Behold all the

Peppered marvelous ways
Butter and Pears we make toast at
toasted whole grain + bonappetit.com
softened butter seasoned /newhealthy
with salt and pepper
+ sliced pear + bee
pollen + more salt
and pepper
 WHAT REALLY EXCITES US
THESE DAYS ON MENUS?
VEGETABLES. THEY OFFER
TASTINESS, TEXTURE, AND
COUNTLESS PREPARATION
POSSIBILITIES. THERE’S
ALWAYS ROOM ON OUR
TABLE FOR ONE MORE DISH
Recipes by CLAIRE SAFFITZ
”TANDOORI”
CARROTS
WITH
VADOUVAN
SPICE AND
YOGURT
P. 73
“ Garnish vegetables
with fried quinoa or
toasted nuts to provide
additional texture,
as well as flavor. ”
—CASSIE PIUMA, SARMA, SOMERVILLE, MA

RED RICE
SALAD
WITH
PECANS,
FENNEL,
AND
HERBS
P. 73

For a video
on the best ways
to veg out, go to
bonappetit.com
/newhealthy
CRUNCHY
TURNIP,
APPLE,
AND
BRUSSELS
SPROUT
SLAW
P. 73

RIFF
ON IT

Any sweet and

crunchy winter
veg works great
here: Experiment
with kohlrabi,
rutabaga, or
golden beets
instead of turnips.
 BEETS
WITH GOAT
CHEESE,
NIGELLA
SEEDS, AND
PISTACHIOS
P. 73

TREAT YOUR Take your cues Pucker Up Mix Your Methods Eat the Rich
from Jeremy Fox, “It’s amazing what “I love using “Vegetables don’t
VEGETABLES executive chef a squeeze of lemon different parts of need to be ‘health
ILLUSTRATION BY MAT WILLIAMS

of veg-centric to finish a dish can the plant in different food’; there should
Rustic Canyon in do. It zaps your taste preparations. We be plenty of fat on
Santa Monica buds to attention, do a salad using the plate for full flavor.
(hey, he inspired the and makes whatever puréed, dehydrated, I use beef or pork
“tandoori” carrot vegetable you’re and roasted beets. fat—or a little bit of
recipe on p. 73), and seasoning taste more It’s thinking about cured meat or fish—
your vegetable sides like itself—it just vegetable cooking to add complexity
will steal the show. makes it taste right.” in a nose-to-tail way.” to my veggie dishes.”
 KEY
TECHNIQUE

Sure, you can

roast your beets,
but we love
peeling them,
then steaming
until tender
before mashing.
Season the water
with vinegar and
spices (or use
a white wine like
Riesling) for a
flavor boost.
 ROASTED
AND
CHARRED
BROCCOLI
WITH
PEANUTS
“Tandoori” Carrots with
Vadouvan Spice and Yogurt
4 SERVINGS What’s vadouvan, you ask?
It’s just one of our new favorite exotic
spice blends; turn to Prep School on
page 98 to read more about it.
2 Tbsp. vadouvan
2 garlic cloves, finely grated, divided
½ cup plain whole-milk Greek
yogurt, divided
5 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1 lb. small carrots, tops trimmed,
scrubbed
¼ tsp. ground turmeric
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Very coarsely chopped cilantro
leaves with tender stems and
lemon wedges (for serving)
Preheat oven to 425°. Mix vadouvan,
half of garlic, ¼ cup yogurt, and 3 Tbsp.
oil in a large bowl until smooth; season
with salt and pepper. Add carrots
and toss to coat. Roast on a rimmed
baking sheet in a single layer, turning
occasionally, until tender and lightly
charred in spots, 25–30 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat turmeric and
remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in a small skillet over
medium-low, swirling skillet, until fragrant,
about 2 minutes. Remove from heat.
Whisk lemon juice, remaining garlic,
and remaining ¼ cup yogurt in a small
bowl; season with salt and pepper.
Place carrots (along with crunchy bits
on baking sheet) on a platter. Drizzle with
yogurt mixture and turmeric oil and top
with cilantro. Serve with lemon wedges.
Red Rice Salad with
Pecans, Fennel, and Herbs
4 SERVINGS Red rice is a short-grain,
nutty-tasting type; you can use
short-grain brown rice in its place.
1 cup red rice
1 small fennel bulb, very thinly sliced
¼ medium red onion, thinly sliced
3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, divided
⅔ cup pecans, divided
¼ cup olive oil
½ cup cilantro leaves and finely
chopped tender stems
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
Toasted pistachio oil or almond oil
(for serving; optional)
Cook rice according to package
directions. Spread out on a rimmed
baking sheet; let cool.
Meanwhile, toss fennel and onion with
2 Tbsp. lime juice in a large bowl and let
sit, tossing occasionally, until lime juice is
almost entirely absorbed, 10–15 minutes.
Coarsely chop ⅓ cup pecans; finely
chop remaining nuts. Cook in olive oil in
a small saucepan over medium-low until
golden brown, 5–10 minutes. Let cool.
Add rice and pecans to fennel mixture
along with remaining 1 Tbsp. lime juice
and toss to combine. Gently fold in
cilantro; season with salt and pepper.
Serve drizzled with pistachio oil, if desired.
DO AHEAD: Rice salad (without cilantro)
can be chilled up to 1 day. Bring to room
temperature before serving.
Crunchy Turnip, Apple,
and Brussels Sprout Slaw
4 SERVINGS This slaw reimagines
brussels sprouts as an adorable mini
salad green. Core them with a paring
knife and the leaves will pop right off.
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 tsp. finely grated peeled ginger
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
2 small white turnips, peeled,
cut into matchsticks
1 medium sweet-tart apple (such as
Pink Lady), cut into matchsticks
4 oz. brussels sprouts, leaves
separated
1 tsp. poppy seeds, plus more
Whisk lemon juice, oil, and ginger in a
large bowl; season with salt and pepper.
Add turnips, apple, brussels sprouts, and
1 tsp. poppy seeds and toss to coat. Serve
slaw topped with more poppy seeds.
Beets with Goat Cheese,
Nigella Seeds, and Pistachios
4 SERVINGS Steaming is back! The
vinegar-and-spice-infused liquid flavors
the beets as they cook.
2 Tbsp. chopped raw pistachios
¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
¾ tsp. hot smoked Spanish paprika,
divided
Kosher salt
1 lb. beets, scrubbed, peeled, cut
into ½" pieces
4 oz. fresh goat cheese, crumbled,
divided
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. nigella seeds
Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)
Olive oil (for serving)
INGREDIENT INFO: Nigella seeds are
available at Indian markets or online.
Toast pistachios in a dry small skillet over
medium-high heat, stirring often, until
golden brown, about 5 minutes; let cool.
Combine ¼ cup vinegar, ½ tsp.
paprika, and a pinch of kosher salt in
a large saucepan and add water so
mixture comes 1" up sides of pan. Fit with
a steamer basket and bring liquid to a
simmer over medium. Add beets, cover
pan, and steam until tender, 30–40
minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and
let cool slightly.
While beets are still warm, add 2 oz.
goat cheese, remaining 1 Tbsp. vinegar,
and remaining ¼ tsp. paprika; season
with kosher salt and pepper. Coarsely
smash beets with a fork or potato
masher, leaving some bigger pieces.
Serve topped with nigella seeds,
pistachios, sea salt, and remaining goat
cheese and drizzled with oil.
Roasted and Charred
Broccoli with Peanuts
4 SERVINGS Believe it or not, we came up
with a new way to chop broccoli. Turn to
Prep School on page 99 to make the cut.
1 bunch broccoli (about 1 ½ lb.),
ends trimmed, stems peeled
3 Tbsp. olive oil
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar
¼ cup unsalted, roasted peanuts,
coarsely chopped
½ tsp. sugar
2 Tbsp. nutritional yeast, plus more
4 scallions, thinly sliced
Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)
Preheat oven to 450°. Slice broccoli
stems on a diagonal ¼" thick. Transfer
to a rimmed baking sheet, toss with oil,
and season with kosher salt and pepper.
Gather up loose pieces of left-behind
florets and finely chop. Roast stems until
browned around edges, 15–20 minutes.
Add vinegar; toss to coat.
Meanwhile, heat a dry medium skillet,
preferably cast iron, over medium-high.
Add florets. Season with kosher salt and
pepper and cook, stirring often, until
bright green and lightly charred in spots,
about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low;
add peanuts and sugar. Cook, stirring,
until nuts are golden brown. Stir in 2 Tbsp.
nutritional yeast; season again.
Serve broccoli stems and florets topped
with scallions, sea salt, and more yeast.
JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 73
 It tastes
like dessert
and has
so many
nutrients.

BRIDGET DONAHUE SATSUKI MITCHELL LEE ROY KUNZ AMINÉ RAMER

14+ 6 5 3+
Goodness Greens Banana Walnut Shake Walnut Mucuna Merry Milk Silver Strawberry Moon Milk

3 JAESUNG LEE 9+ CHRISTOPHER DOLINAR

Cilantro Celery Punch Turmeric’s Gold

OUR JUICING OBSESSION

(YOU KNOW, THE ONE THAT My whole
world changed
HAS US DREAMING OF VERDANT when I started
drinking
TONICS AND NUTTY “SHAKES”) raw, organic
juice.
GOES BEYOND A DAILY HABIT.
IT’S A FULL-ON LIFESTYLE—AND
WE’RE NOT ALONE. JUST CHECK
OUT THE SATURDAY SCENE AT
AMANDA CHANTAL BACON’S
MOON JUICE IN VENICE, CA

1+ MICHELLE MURPHY = juices per week 40+ AMANDA CHANTAL BACON

Cucumber, Pineapple & Jalapeño Canyon Greens

I love to
cook elaborate
meals with meats
and pastas, so
juice balances
it out!

5 SARAH CARR 1 NIKEYA GREEN 14+ MICHAËL DIMITRI 10+ ALANA MARIE
Gingered Lemon Deep Chocolate Moon Milk Green Shake Cucumber, Pineapple & Jalapeño

74 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5
 I don’t
need that
triple espresso
at 4 p.m. if I
start the day off
with a fresh
juice!

KATIE WHITE ALIXANDRA KOS JODI RAPPAPORT RACHAEL KRUK

5+ 3+ 15
+
3
Gingered Lemon Gracious Greens Goodness Greens Walnut Mucuna Merry Milk

Juice is a
pure infusion
of life force
and vitamin
goodness
right into this
holy bod.

2+ RAHIM HODGE 7+ BRETAGNE NOHRA 7+ LAUREN ECKSTROM 5 STEVE WERNDORF

Date Shake Gracious Greens Probiotic Mango Lassi Goodness Greens

Yum.

3+ JACOB MAYMUDES 7 KAT SILVERSTON JOSHUA WANDER 4+ THOMAS BRODAHL

Goodness Greens Carrot, Lime & Coconut Date Shake Green Shake
Juice
makes me
I’m feel super
gravitating alive.
toward the
yam for the high
mineral content.
And it’s like the
holidays in
a bottle!

15 DANIELLE KING 20+ MICAH SOHL 7+ ELIZABETH RIPPS 7 KEVIN JOSEPH

Silver Strawberry Moon Milk Spiced Yam Goodness Greens Ginger, Cayenne & Oil of Oregano
 1. 2.
Seedy Cherry- Crunchy Cashew-
Quinoa Bars Sesame Bars
Coat 8x8" baking Coat 8x8" baking
pan with nonstick pan with nonstick
vegetable oil spray; vegetable oil spray;
line with parchment, line with parchment,
leaving overhang on leaving overhang on
all sides. Toast 1 cup all sides. Toast 1 ½ cups
chopped almonds, cashews, 6 Tbsp.
½ cup rinsed raw raw sesame seeds,
quinoa, ¼ cup raw and 5 Tbsp. flaxseed
pumpkin seeds, and in separate areas on
¼ cup raw sunflower a rimmed baking sheet
seeds on a rimmed in a 350° oven, stirring
baking sheet in a occasionally (but not
350° oven, stirring mixing), until golden
occasionally, until brown, 10–12 minutes.
golden brown, 10–12 Let cool. Set aside
WHY SHELL OUT $5 WHEN YOU CAN minutes. Let cool. 2 Tbsp. sesame seeds
Reduce oven and 1 Tbsp. flaxseed.
MAKE ENERGY BARS AT HOME? PACKED temperature to 200°. Process cashews
WITH TONS OF FLAVOR AND PUNCH, Process 1 cup dried and remaining seeds
THESE D.I.Y. SUPER SNACKS WILL POWER tart cherries, 2 Tbsp. with ¼ cup wheat
brown rice syrup, bran, ¾ tsp. kosher
YOU THROUGH YOUR MOST HECTIC DAYS ¾ tsp. kosher salt, and salt, and ¼ tsp. ground
By DAWN PERRY 2 Tbsp. water in a food cardamom in a food
processor until smooth. processor until mostly
1 Transfer to a medium finely chopped. Place
bowl and stir in toasted in a medium bowl.
almond mixture. Press Bring ½ cup pure
firmly into prepared maple syrup and
pan and bake until no 1 Tbsp. coconut oil to a
longer sticky, 20–25 boil in a small saucepan;
minutes. Let cool, then cook, stirring, 1 minute.
cut into bars. Makes 12 Pour over cashew
mixture and stir to coat.
Press mixture firmly
into prepared pan
with wet hands (it will
Press your be sticky). Top with
bars like a pro. reserved seeds; press
See Prep to adhere. Bake until
School, page
golden brown, 25–30
98.
minutes. Let cool, then
cut into bars. Makes 12

2
 3

3.
Chocolate Coconut 1 tsp. kosher salt,
Date Bars and 2 Tbsp. water
Coat 8x8" baking in a food processor
pan with nonstick until smooth (you
vegetable oil spray; may need to stop and
line with parchment, scrape down sides
leaving overhang a few times). Press
on all sides. Process mixture firmly ALL AWESOME
2 cups pitted Medjool into prepared pan. ENERGY BARS
dates, ¾ cup raw Scatter ¼ cup FOLLOW THIS
cacao powder, unsweetened FORMULA:
¾ cup unsweetened shredded coconut
shredded coconut, over top; press to BINDER Bonus:
¼ cup cacao nibs, adhere. Cut into bars. your sweet hit!
2 Tbsp. agave syrup, Makes 12 Try: For chewy bars,
process dried fruits
like figs, prunes, or
apricots. For crunchy,
use liquid sweeteners
like barley malt syrup,
agave, or mild honey
Store +
bars airtight
at room BODY Nutrient-rich
temperature building blocks
up to that lend structure
2 weeks.
Try: Ground
nuts, toasted oats,
unsweetened
shredded coconut,
wheat germ and bran
+
CRUNCH Textural
elements that
conveniently contain
good fats and protein
to keep you satisfied
Try: Seeds, chopped
nuts, toasted small
grains, cacao nibs

For a video on
making energy bars
at home, go to
bonappetit.com
/newhealthy
 -
HEALTHY DESSERTS?
OKAY, HOW ABOUT
KINDA HEALTHY?
NUTS, SEEDS, WHOLE
GRAIN FLOURS, AND
GOOD FATS (CALLING
COCONUT OIL!)
BRING MORE THAN
CRAVEABILITY TO
THESE NEW TREATS
Recipes by ALISON ROMAN
- CINNAMON-
DATE BUNS
P. 83

KEY
TECHNIQUE

Simmering dates
in water to make
our alt-sweetener
breaks them down
completely—no
blender required!
Just make sure
to stir the pot
frequently toward
the end to prevent
scorching.
“ When it comes
to sweets, fats
are not the enemy;
sugar is. We
work hard to use
unprocessed
sweeteners
like maple syrup,
raw brown RIFF
sugar, and fruits. ” ON IT

—GENEVIEVE LYNCH, MULBERRY & VINE, NYC

Sprinkle any
number of
awesome chopped
crunchy things
on top of your
meringues: cocoa
nibs, sunflower
seeds, hazelnuts,
toasted coconut
flakes...

HAZELNUT
BUTTER
AND COFFEE
MERINGUES
P. 83
 CHOCOLATE-RYE
CRUMB CAKE
P. 82

SWEET TRUTH For Sarah Make the Cut Swap Sweeteners Stir-In Crazy Bottom Line
Ellsworth, pastry “Mix white flour “Non-sugars bring “Nuts, dried fruit, “Cook with more
ILLUSTRATION BY MAT WILLIAMS

chef at Seattle’s with whole grain flavor, not just ‘sweet.’ and cacao nibs flavorful ingredients
the London Plane, ones like buckwheat Throw chopped-up all add texture and and you won’t need
dessert should for a tender texture dates in cookies, flavor. That built-in as much sugar. Use
be sweet—just and earthiness. or steam and purée nutrition boost? citrus zest in baking,
not too sweet. Buckwheat goes them into a paste Just a bonus. Nuts even dried flowers
Here, her tips on great with rum, for cake batter. are great for crunch, or teas. Earl Grey
how to have your summer strawberries, Or, lighten coffee and cacao nibs ground into flour
(chocolate-rye) or chocolate cake with honey offer a nice bitterness makes for lovely
cake and eat it, too. whenever!” or maple syrup.” in meringues.” tea-infused cookies.”
 OAT AND
PISTACHIO
SANDIES
P. 83

Chocolate-Rye Crumb Cake ¾ tsp. baking soda round. Whisk all-purpose flour, rye flour,
8 SERVINGS Because it contains more ¾ tsp. kosher salt cocoa powder, baking powder, baking
essential oils, whole grain rye flour can spoil ¾ cup (1 ½ sticks) unsalted butter, soda, and salt in a medium bowl.
quickly. Store the unused portion in the room temperature Using an electric mixer on medium-
fridge or freezer. ½ cup granulated sugar high speed, beat butter, granulated
⅓ cup (packed) light brown sugar sugar, and brown sugar in a medium
CRUMBLE 2 large eggs bowl until light and fluffy, about
⅓ cup granulated sugar 1 tsp. vanilla extract 5 minutes. Scrape down sides of bowl
¼ cup all-purpose flour ¾ cup buttermilk and add eggs and vanilla; mix until
¼ cup rye flour ¼ cup plain whole-milk Greek blended, about 2 minutes. Reduce speed
3 Tbsp. cacao nibs yogurt to low and add half of dry ingredients
2 Tbsp. unsweetened cocoa followed by buttermilk, mixing well after
powder CRUMBLE Whisk granulated sugar, each addition. Repeat with remaining
¼ tsp. kosher salt all-purpose flour, rye flour, cacao nibs, dry ingredients and yogurt (this is a
¼ cup chilled unsalted butter, cocoa powder, and salt in a medium stiffer batter). Scrape into prepared pan.
cut into pieces bowl until blended. Work in butter with Scatter crumble over.
your fingers to form large clumps—there Bake, rotating once, until cake starts
CAKE AND ASSEMBLY should be no dry spots. Cover and chill. to pull away from sides of pan and
Nonstick vegetable oil spray DO AHEAD: Crumble can be made a tester inserted into the center comes
¾ cup all-purpose flour 2 days ahead. Keep chilled. out clean, 60–70 minutes. Let cake cool
¾ cup rye flour in pan on a wire rack before turning out.
½ cup unsweetened cocoa CAKE AND ASSEMBLY Preheat oven to DO AHEAD: Cake can be made 3 days
powder 350°. Coat a 9"-diameter cake pan with ahead. Store tightly wrapped at room
1 tsp. baking powder nonstick spray and line with a parchment temperature.

8 2 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5
Cinnamon-Date Buns
MAKES 16 Yes, the dough is buttery, but
replacing the brown sugar with puréed
dates is a nutritional game-changer.
DATE FILLING
16 Medjool dates, pitted (about 8 oz.)
¼ tsp. kosher salt
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter,
room temperature
1 Tbsp. finely grated orange zest
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
DOUGH AND ASSEMBLY
⅓ cup whole milk
4 Tbsp. honey, divided
1 envelope active dry yeast
(about 2 ¼ tsp.)
2 large egg yolks
2 large eggs
⅓ cup buttermilk
1 cup spelt flour
1 ¼ tsp. kosher salt
2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more
for surface
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter,
cut into pieces, room
temperature, plus melted butter
for bowl and brushing
¼ cup sugar
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
DATE FILLING Bring dates, salt, and
1 ½ cups water to a boil in a medium
saucepan. Reduce heat and simmer,
stirring and mashing occasionally, until
dates are falling apart and water is
evaporated (it should be a thick paste),
10–15 minutes. Let cool, then stir in
butter, orange zest, and cinnamon.
DO AHEAD: Date filling can be made
1 week ahead. Cover and chill. Bring
to room temperature before using.
DOUGH AND ASSEMBLY Preheat oven to
375°. Heat milk and 1 Tbsp. honey in a
small saucepan until lukewarm. Combine
milk mixture and yeast in the bowl of
a stand mixer. As soon as yeast is foamy,
about 5 minutes, add egg yolks, 1 egg,
buttermilk, spelt flour, salt, 2 cups
all-purpose flour, and remaining 3 Tbsp.
honey; mix on medium speed until dough
is smooth, shiny, and elastic, 5–8 minutes.
With motor running, add ½ cup room-
temperature butter, 1 piece at a time,
waiting until each piece is incorporated
before adding the next. Mix 1 minute,
then increase speed to medium-high
and mix until dough is soft and supple,
6–8 minutes. (No stand mixer? Whisk
ingredients into yeast mixture in a large
bowl, then knead dough on a clean
surface. Mix in butter with a sturdy
wooden spoon, then knead briefly to
make sure butter is well incorporated.)
Place dough in a buttered medium
bowl. Brush with melted butter; cover
with plastic wrap. Let dough rise in a
warm spot until doubled in size, 1–1 ½
hours (2–2 ½ hours if dough was made
ahead and chilled).
Divide dough in half. Roll out 1 piece
on a lightly floured surface to a 15x5"
rectangle. Evenly spread with half of date
filling and cut into 8 triangles. Starting
with a pointy end, roll up dough (like
a reverse crescent roll). Place, seam
side down, on a parchment-lined baking
sheet. Repeat with remaining dough,
date filling, and another baking sheet.
Cover buns with plastic wrap and let
rise in a warm spot until almost doubled
in size, 30–40 minutes.
Mix sugar and cinnamon in a small
bowl. Whisk remaining egg and 1 tsp.
water in another small bowl and brush
over buns. Sprinkle with cinnamon sugar;
bake until golden brown, 20–25 minutes.
Let cool slightly before serving.
DO AHEAD: Dough (before rise) can be
made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.
Oat and Pistachio Sandies
MAKES ABOUT 30 For a delicate—not
brittle—crunch, don’t overbake. It’s okay
if the center of the cookie is still pale.
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup old-fashioned oats
1 cup raw pistachios
¾ tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. baking soda
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter,
room temperature
⅓ cup granulated sugar
¼ cup powdered sugar
Pulse flour, oats, pistachios, salt,
and baking soda in a food processor
to combine (small pieces of oats and
pistachio should still be visible).
Using an electric mixer on medium-
high speed, beat butter, granulated
sugar, and powdered sugar in a
medium bowl to create air pockets in
butter, about 5 minutes; mixture will
look light and fluffy. Reduce speed to
low and add dry ingredients, mixing just
until blended. Divide dough between
2 sheets of plastic wrap or parchment
paper and shape into about 1 ½"-diameter
logs. Chill until firm, at least 1 hour.
(The colder your dough, the easier
it will be to cut into even slices.)
Place racks in lower and upper thirds
of oven; preheat to 350°. Using a serrated
knife, slice logs into ¼"-thick rounds and
place on parchment-lined baking sheets,
spacing about ½" apart. Bake, rotating
baking sheets once, until cookies are
golden brown around the edges, 10–12
minutes. Transfer to wire racks; let cool.
DO AHEAD: Keep dough chilled
up to 5 days, or freeze up to 1 month.
Hazelnut Butter
and Coffee Meringues
MAKES ABOUT 24 For a high-contrast
swirl, go easy when folding in the nut butter.
A stroke or two with the spatula is enough.
1 cup skin-on hazelnuts
¼ tsp. kosher salt
4 large egg whites
Pinch of cream of tartar
½ cup granulated sugar
¾ cup powdered sugar
2 Tbsp. coffee beans, chopped
Preheat oven to 350°. Toast hazelnuts
on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing
once, until golden brown, 10–12
minutes. Remove nuts and reduce oven
temperature to 200°. Bundle nuts in
a kitchen towel and rub vigorously to
remove skins. Spread out and let cool.
Blend hazelnuts and salt in a food
processor until a smooth, creamy nut
butter forms (it should be pretty fluid;
keep processing if still stiff); set aside.
Using an electric mixer on high speed,
beat egg whites and cream of tartar
until frothy, about 1 minute. With motor
running, gradually add granulated sugar
and beat until medium peaks form, about
5 minutes. Gradually add powdered
sugar and continue to beat until stiff,
glossy peaks form, 8–10 minutes.
Transfer meringue to a large bowl and
gently fold in half of reserved hazelnut
butter, leaving plenty of streaks. Add
remaining hazelnut butter and fold once
just to barely blend. Mixture should be
marbled with thick ribbons of nut butter.
Spoon heaping spoonfuls of meringue
onto parchment-lined baking sheets
(meringues will flatten slightly as they
bake, so make them tall) and top with
coffee beans. Bake until dry, 2–2 ½ hours.
Turn off heat and let cool in oven.
DO AHEAD: Meringues can be made
2 days ahead. Store airtight at room
temperature.
JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 8 3
 RYE FLOUR
Blend all-purpose
flour with earthy,
whole grain rye
flour for baked
goods with body.

ALT-FLOURS, SUPER BERRIES, MYSTERIOUS POWDERS

AND FLAKES: CHEFS ARE RESCUING GOOD-FOR-
YOU PROVISIONS FROM THE HEALTH FOOD STORE
AND ELEVATING THEM TO PANTRY MUST-HAVES
By BELLE CUSHING

CACAO NIBS
These roast-y bits of
the cacao bean add
crunch in cookies,
deliver a deep choco
note to smoothies,
and can garnish ice
cream as well as salad.

GOLDEN
BERRIES
This dried South
American fruit is
low in sugar and
high in vitamin A,
with a sweet-tart
burst perfect for
snacking or salads.

COCONUT
FLAKES
Toast in a dry pan
and sprinkle on
everything from
yogurt to grains to
dessert. Choose
fresh-smelling,
unsweetened flakes.

NUTRITIONAL
YEAST RED
FLAXSEED OIL Mix into dressings, BHUTAN RICE
Full of omega-3 sprinkle on popcorn, Grown for
fatty acids grains, or nuts— thousands of years,
(the good stuff), think of this as this heirloom variety
a drizzle of this hippie Parmesan. cooks up quickly
lends a light, seed-y (20 minutes!)
note to vinaigrettes. into tender, nutty
Store in the fridge grains packed
to keep fresh. with potassium.
 “ Spirulina is
galactic: funky,
savory, and
loaded with
SPIRULINA
protein. I love
Eat your veggies!
Especially the aquatic
adding it to an
ones. This blue-green
algae is a weird avocado shake.”
and wonderful (and —FERNANDO ACIAR, FEEL FOOD, NYC
vitamin-rich) extra
in smoothies or bars.
SUMAC
This vibrant spice
will brighten any
veg with its deep
lemony tang.

HEMP SEED
Top salads or
grains with this
mildly grassy
seed and enjoy
the protein
that comes with
the crunch.

BEE POLLEN
With a melt-
in-your-mouth
TURMERIC sweetness and
This peppery just about every
powder gives its nutritional benefit
golden hue (and you can think
anti-inflammatory of, pollen is a
powers) to anything powerful topper
from yogurt to for smoothies
bread. Seek out and desserts.
the root fresh, and
use like ginger.

JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 8 5
 TIME TO RETHINK
YOUR ENTREE.
WE’RE TALKING
MEAT IN A CAMEO,
VEGGIES AND
GRAINS AS CO-STARS,
AND THE BRIGHT
FLAVORS OF
THE EASTERN
MEDITERRANEAN
TAKING THE LEAD.
SARA KRAMER,
CHEF AT L.A.’S
MADCAPRA,
SHOWS US HOW
IT’S DONE
-s CHICKPEAS
AND
CHARD
WITH
POACHED
EGGS
P. 90
“ Try serving
no more than
four ounces
of meat or fish
per person.
Instead, add
substance with
nuts, legumes,
and yogurt.”
—SARA KRAMER

MACKEREL
WITH
CAULIFLOWER
“COUSCOUS”
AND
TAHINI
P. 90
GUTTER
 KEY
TECHNIQUE

Searing the
sweet potatoes
in a pan after
they’ve been
roasted is
crucial: It adds
caramelized
depth to this
simple recipe.

SEARED
SWEET
POTATOES
WITH
SAUSAGE
AND
RADICCHIO
P. 90
Seared Sweet Potatoes
with Sausage and Radicchio
4 SERVINGS These days, it goes
without saying that if you’re a vegetarian,
you can simply leave out the sausage.
SWEET POTATOES AND NUTS
1 garlic clove, finely grated
3 Tbsp. plus ½ tsp. olive oil
2 large or 4 small sweet potatoes,
preferably garnet, scrubbed
Kosher salt
¼ cup pecans, chopped
SAUSAGE AND ASSEMBLY
1 head Treviso radicchio, leaves
separated and torn
into pieces
2 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. olive oil
8 oz. merguez sausage, casings
removed
½ tsp. Aleppo pepper or ¼ tsp.
crushed red pepper flakes
2 Tbsp. pomegranate molasses
1 tsp. Sherry vinegar or red wine
vinegar
Kosher salt
⅓ cup plain sheep’s-milk or Greek
yogurt
¼ cup fresh mint leaves
INGREDIENT INFO: Pomegranate molasses
is available at Middle Eastern markets
and some supermarkets or online.
SWEET POTATOES AND NUTS Preheat oven
to 400°. Mix garlic and 3 Tbsp. oil in a
small bowl. Prick sweet potatoes all over
with a fork and rub with half of garlic oil;
set remaining garlic oil aside. Season
with salt and roast on a rimmed baking
sheet, turning once, until flesh is soft
and yielding, 45–55 minutes. Remove
from oven; reduce heat to 350°.
Toss pecans and remaining ½ tsp. oil
on a rimmed baking sheet; season with
salt. Toast, tossing once, until slightly
darkened and fragrant, 8–10 minutes.
Let sweet potatoes cool slightly, then
cut in half lengthwise. Brush cut sides
with reserved garlic oil. Heat a large
heavy skillet over medium. Cook sweet
potatoes, cut side down, pressing
lightly with a spatula, until browned
and charred in spots, about 5 minutes.
Transfer to a plate and reserve skillet.
SAUSAGE AND ASSEMBLY Place radicchio
in a large bowl. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in
reserved skillet over medium-high. Cook
sausage, breaking up with a spoon, until
browned and cooked through, about
9 0 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5
5 minutes. Stir in Aleppo pepper. Transfer
meat to a plate with a slotted spoon and
pour off all but 2 Tbsp. fat from skillet.
Reduce heat to medium. Combine
pomegranate molasses, vinegar, and
¼ cup water in skillet, stirring to combine
and scraping pan to loosen browned
bits. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring
often, until sauce is slightly thickened,
about 3 minutes, then drizzle over
radicchio. Add reserved sausage and
toss to coat; season with salt.
Mix yogurt and remaining 1 tsp.
oil in a small bowl, thinning with a little
water to make pourable; season with
salt. Divide yogurt among plates and top
with sweet potatoes. Arrange sausage
mixture over, along with any pan juices.
Top with pecans and mint.
Mackerel with Cauliflower
“Couscous” and Tahini
4 SERVINGS Use one 2-pound
mackerel if you can’t find smaller ones,
or substitute arctic char or trout.
TAHINI SAUCE
1 garlic clove, finely grated
¼ cup tahini
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp. olive oil
Kosher salt
CAULIFLOWER AND SEEDS
3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
1 small head cauliflower, cored,
cut into large florets
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt
2 Tbsp. raw pumpkin seeds
2 tsp. sesame seeds
1 tsp. nigella seeds
MACKEREL AND ASSEMBLY
2 whole small Spanish mackerel
(about 1 lb. each), cleaned
1 Tbsp. olive oil
Kosher salt
1 lemon, thinly sliced, seeds
removed
1 bunch thyme
½ cup pomegranate seeds
½ cup fresh cilantro leaves with
tender stems
INGREDIENT INFO: Nigella seeds are
available at Indian markets or online.
TAHINI SAUCE Stir garlic, tahini, lemon
juice, oil, and ¼ cup water in a small
bowl; season with salt.
CAULIFLOWER AND SEEDS Heat 2 Tbsp.
oil in a large heavy skillet over medium-
high. Working in batches if needed, cook
cauliflower, tossing occasionally, until
florets are browned in spots but still
crunchy, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a
large bowl and let cool. Reserve skillet.
Working in 2 batches, pulse cauliflower
in a food processor until the size of
rice grains. Transfer back to bowl, toss
with lemon juice, and season with salt.
Cook pumpkin seeds and remaining
1 Tbsp. oil in reserved skillet over medium
heat, stirring, until seeds are golden
brown, about 1 minute. Season with salt.
Toss in a small bowl with sesame and
nigella seeds.
MACKEREL AND ASSEMBLY Heat broiler.
Place fish on a rimmed baking sheet
and rub with oil; season all over with salt.
Stuff cavity with lemon and thyme.
Broil, turning once, until cooked through,
10–12 minutes. Let rest 5 minutes.
Spoon cauliflower onto plates; drizzle
with tahini sauce. Top with seed mixture
and pomegranate seeds. Remove fillets
from fish and place, skin side up, on top.
Add cilantro and a sprinkle of salt.
Chickpeas and Chard
with Poached Eggs
4 SERVINGS You can cook the chickpeas
a day or two in advance; pick up at the
step where you sauté the onion and garlic.
2 Tbsp. plus ¼ cup olive oil
½ lemon
1 small onion, halved, plus
2 medium onions, chopped
6 garlic cloves, smashed, divided
2 bay leaves
1 cup dried chickpeas, soaked
overnight, drained
2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
1 Fresno chile, finely chopped
1 tsp. baharat
2 large bunches Swiss chard, ribs
and stems removed and thinly
sliced, leaves torn into 1" pieces
3 Tbsp. dried barberries or dried
unsweetened cranberries
8 large eggs
Labneh (Lebanese strained
yogurt; for serving)
1 Tbsp. fresh marjoram leaves
Freshly cracked black pepper
INGREDIENT INFO: The spice mix baharat
and dried barberries are available
at Middle Eastern markets or online. »
 FREEKEH
PAELLA
WITH
CLAMS
AND
ALMOND
AIOLI
P. 93

RIFF
ON IT

Try it with farro,

which is great for
a weeknight dinner
because it cooks
even faster
than freekeh.
WHAT’S IN Trendy chiles? Nigella Seeds Aleppo Pepper Barberries Freekeh
KRAMER’S Check. Exotic seeds? “These don’t have “This pepper has “Refreshingly not- “A gloriously green
You bet. Ancient anything to do with never been hotter at-all sweet. Toss grain. Smoky, nutty,
KITCHEN grains? Heck, yeah. Ms. Lawson. The (wink wink). Used these tart, dried and earthy; you
Here’s what chef angular black seeds mostly as a crushed Iranian fruits liberally might be tempted
Sara Kramer reaches add a distinct flavor chile, it brings into grains, stews, to refer to it as the
for every day to bring reminiscent of cumin warmth to everything and salads for a bacon of the grain
the bright, complex and caraway with a it’s sprinkled on—or bright, fruity punch. world. Use it and you
flavors of the Eastern bitter edge. Veggies into. Use like chile Sub dried cranberries won’t miss the meat
Mediterranean to and flatbreads flakes to both flavor if you can’t find found in traditional
her cooking. both love them.” and finish a dish.” them, but do try.” rice-based paellas.”

PORK
CHOPS WITH
CARROTS
AND TOASTED
BUCKWHEAT
 Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a medium saucepan
over medium-high. Add lemon and halved
onion, cut side down, and 2 garlic cloves
and cook, turning garlic occasionally, until
golden brown, about 4 minutes. Add bay
leaves and chickpeas; add water to cover
by 1". Bring to a boil and skim surface.
Reduce heat, cover, and gently simmer
30 minutes. Stir in 2 tsp. salt and continue
to simmer until chickpeas are tender,
10–20 minutes. Remove from heat;
discard lemon, onion, and bay leaves.
Meanwhile, heat remaining ¼ cup oil in
a large straight-sided skillet over medium.
Add chopped onion, chile, baharat, and
remaining 4 garlic cloves; season with
salt. Cook, stirring often, until onions are
translucent, 8–10 minutes. Add Swiss
chard ribs and stems and cook, stirring
occasionally, until tender, 5–8 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer
chickpeas to skillet. Add cooking liquid
to cover; bring to a simmer. Gradually add
chard leaves, stirring until slightly wilted
before adding more. Add barberries;
cook until leaves are wilted, 5–8 minutes.
With mixture at a gentle simmer,
use a spoon to make 8 indentations.
Crack an egg into each and simmer until
whites are almost entirely opaque, about
10 minutes. Cover pan and cook just until
whites are set but yolks are still runny,
about 2 minutes. Season eggs with salt.
ILLUSTRATION BY MAT WILLIAMS. FOR THE NEW HEALTHY 2015 RESTAURANT DETAILS AND PRODUCT INFO, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
Spoon chickpeas and chard into
bowls, top with eggs, labneh, and
marjoram, and season with pepper.
Pork Chops with Carrots
and Toasted Buckwheat
4 SERVINGS Chef Kramer cooks the
chops medium-rare so they stay juicy;
you can also use rib chops.
1 orange
1 ½ lb. carrots, scrubbed, halved
lengthwise, cut into 2" pieces
1 garlic clove, finely grated
2 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more
Kosher salt
2 tsp. fresh lime juice, plus more
¾ cup pearled buckwheat groats
1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
2 1"-thick bone-in pork shoulder
chops (about 8–10 oz. each)
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
¼ cup dill sprigs
Aleppo or Urfa pepper or crushed
red pepper flakes
Cut all peel and white pith from orange;
discard. Working over a small bowl, cut
along sides of membranes to release
segments; squeeze in juice as well.
Preheat oven to 450°. Toss carrots,
garlic, and 2 Tbsp. olive oil on a rimmed
baking sheet; season with salt. Roast,
tossing once, until tender and browned,
15–20 minutes. While carrots are still
hot, add orange segments and juice and
2 tsp. lime juice and toss to coat. Set aside.
Meanwhile, cook buckwheat in a
large saucepan of boiling salted water
until tender but not falling apart, 10–15
minutes. Drain; rinse under cold water.
Spread out on a baking sheet and let dry
(key for achieving browned and crisped
grains when cooked again).
Heat vegetable oil in a large heavy
skillet over high. Season pork with salt
and cook until browned but still pink
in the center, about 4 minutes per side.
Add 1 Tbsp. butter and spoon over
chops, turning once, until medium-rare,
about 1 minute more. Transfer to a
cutting board and let rest 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, add cooled buckwheat and
remaining 2 Tbsp. butter to skillet; season
with salt. Cook, tossing often, until grains
are toasted and some are crisp, about
5 minutes. Drain on paper towels.
Slice pork; toss dill into buckwheat.
Serve buckwheat and carrots with slices
of pork, drizzled with lime juice and olive
oil and sprinkled with Aleppo pepper.
Freekeh Paella with
Clams and Almond Aioli
4 SERVINGS Fair to say we're pretty
much obsessed with this nut-based
(egg-free!) aioli. Try it with walnuts, too.
ALMOND AIOLI
½ cup slivered almonds
1 small garlic clove, finely grated
¼ cup olive oil
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt
PAELLA
2 onions, cut into large pieces
2 medium carrots, peeled, cut into
large pieces
8 garlic cloves, peeled
1 medium-hot chile (such as a
Hungarian wax pepper),
stem removed
2 oz. dried chorizo, casing removed,
coarsely chopped
3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 bay leaf
Kosher salt
2 cups freekeh
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
12 littleneck clams, scrubbed
4 hot pickled peppers from a jar,
thinly sliced
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
Lemon wedges (for serving)
ALMOND AIOLI Preheat oven to 350°.
Toast almonds on a rimmed baking
sheet, tossing once, until golden brown,
5–8 minutes. Let cool.
Pulse almonds and garlic in a food
processor or blender until finely ground.
With motor running, gradually stream
in oil, lemon juice, then ¼ cup water;
process, adding water as needed, until
aioli is light, smooth, and consistency of
mayonnaise; season with salt. Cover; chill.
DO AHEAD: Aioli can be made 1 day
ahead. Keep chilled.
PAELLA Pulse onions in a food processor
until finely chopped; transfer to a large
bowl. Repeat, separately, with carrots,
garlic, and chile, adding to bowl with
onions as you go. Pulse chorizo in food
processor until finely ground.
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium
and cook chorizo, stirring often, until
crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted
spoon, transfer chorizo to a plate.
Add vegetables and bay leaf to
skillet; season with salt. Cook, stirring
often, until moisture is evaporated
and vegetables have started to brown,
12–15 minutes; this is your flavor base.
Add freekeh and cook, stirring, until
lightly toasted and fragrant, about
3 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook,
stirring, until darkened in color, about
2 minutes. Stir in chorizo and 4 ½ cups
water; season with salt. Bring to a
simmer, cover, and cook, adding more
water if liquid evaporates too quickly,
until grains are al dente and almost
all liquid is absorbed, 45–50 minutes.
Nestle clams in freekeh and cover skillet.
Cook until clams open, 7–10 minutes;
discard any that don’t open, along with
bay leaf. Increase heat to medium-high
and cook until clam juices evaporate
and freekeh is tender, about 5 minutes.
Top with pickled peppers and parsley;
serve with aioli and lemon wedges.
Sara Kramer cooked at some of our favorite
restaurants in New York, most recently
Brooklyn’s Glasserie, where she was opening
chef and partner before moving to the West
Coast. MADCAPRA, her vegetable-forward
falafel spot, opens in L.A. in early 2015.
JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 93
prep school TECHNIQUES, TIPS, AND MORE FROM THE BON APPÉTIT TEST KITCHEN

Extremely
important:
very (very)
brown, lacy,
and crispy
edges all
around.

A glossy,
bright yellow,
definitely still
runny yolk.

Note the
relatively even,
circular shape
of the puffed,
bubbly white.

N A I L E D I T: T H E O L I V E O I L– F R I E D EG G
FROM P. 56 BA’s editor in chief, Adam Rapoport, and I are both obsessed with frying eggs in olive oil, for crisp—almost
crunchy—edges, bubbly whites, and perfectly runny yolks. But we can’t agree on how to do it. I’m here to set the record
straight. It starts with the right prep: First, set your burner to medium-high until the skillet is very hot. Second, this isn’t a
deep fry, so one or two tablespoons of olive oil will do. And last, always season your egg (salt, pepper) as soon
as you crack it into the skillet. With any luck, yours will come out like the (perfect!) example above. —ALISON ROMAN

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 97

PREP SCHOOL
A.

S P I C E M A R K ET
FROM P. 73 Using the right
B.
spice blend can mean the
difference between an authentic-
tasting dish and one that’s just...
fine. Find these mixtures at
kalustyans.com. —CLAIRE SAFFITZ
TEST KITCHEN TALK

A. Za’atar: The classic Mideast Carla Lalli Music,

mix includes sesame seeds, food director
oregano or thyme, and sumac.
Sprinkle on fish and chicken,
C.
or stir into yogurt for a quick dip. From Whole
B. Ras-el-hanout: Cardamom,
cinnamon, cloves, turmeric,
Foods to my local
and coriander define this North
African mix. Rub on lamb before
health food
roasting or grilling, or use to store, I love a bulk
perfume rice pilaf and couscous.
bin section. It’s
C. Dukka: This Egyptian ground
spice-and-nut blend includes usually stocked
hazelnuts, cumin, caraway,
sesame, coriander, and mint. with the same
D.
Dust crudités, grilled flatbreads,
or grilled or roasted vegetables.
brands that
D. Vadouvan: This French-Indian
you’ll find on the
spice formula includes onion,
shallots, and garlic added to a
shelves (Red Star,
currylike mix. Use as you would Lundberg, Bob’s
a standard curry powder.
Red Mill…)
E. Baharat: A blend of black
pepper, cumin, coriander, but cheaper. That
cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and
cardamom. Season beef or E.
alone is a deal-
lamb or stir into soups. maker. My kids
weigh what we
need in exchange
for a scoop of
“yogurt-colored”
pretzels or malted
milk balls. With
PAMPLE- the rest of the
MOUSSE
CROSSING haul, I make
FROM P. 17 rice and nut milks
Picture this: (additive-free!)
you, sipping a 1. Snazz up a
Mae Rose simple grapefruit- and big batches
Cocktail, relishing juice-and-seltzer
highball.
of granola, and
its citrusy-sweet
2. Spritz it with a
I always have a
glory. Next to you,
the rest of the
splash of soda and
sparkling wine.
pot of beans
FULL-CUP PRESS bottle of Crème
de Pamplemousse
3. Swap it in for
orange liqueur
going on the
weekend. Now
FROM P. 76 The key to energy bars that Rose liqueur, full for a riff on a
hold their shape? A proper pressing. Fold of potential. Now Margarita or Pegu my cabinets look
Club.
overhanging parchment over the bar mixture try four more ways like a mini bulk
4. Use instead
and use a flat-bottomed measuring cup to put our fave
of curaçao for a bin department
to firmly pack the mixture into the pan. new mixer to use.
Uncover, check for divots, and press again to —BELLE CUSHING
grapefruit-leaning
Mai Tai.
themselves, just
create an even top. —DAWN PERRY the way I like it.
98 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5
 Blood
orange

A.

J’APPROVE! B.
A BA TEST
KITCHEN
PICK
FROM P. 64
Mestemacher’s
dark, seedy
loaves rule for C.
three reasons:
1. Whole grains—
rye, oat, barley—
deliver huge flavor
that stands up to
any ingredient. D.
Navel Key to a strong
orange toast game.
2. You just feel
healthier eating
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JARREN VINK. FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ROMAN. ILLUSTRATIONS BY BRUCE HUTCHISON (ENERGY BAR, BROCCOLI); DENISE

Build a salad around it.

It pairs especially something called
well with rich avocado Fitness Bread (a
or creamy labneh. E.

TA RT ‘ N ’ R O A ST Y
favorite variety).
Finely chop and

SPROUT
combine with minced
3. A year-long
FROM P. 35 Roasting thinly shallots and herbs; shelf life means
cover with olive oil for you never worry

sliced citrus caramelizes the
sugars and neutralizes the
bitterness, resulting in slightly
chewy sweet-and-sour pieces
of concentrated sunshine. Here
are some great ways to use it
all winter long. —A.R.
I T O U T LO U D !
a citrusy salsa verde.
about it going
Dice and toss into stale. Also, it’s
roasted broccoli or
available in 70 FROM P. 56 Sprouts may
carrots for a quick side.
countries. Perfect remind you of trips to the food
Use to garnish winter co-op with your “artistic” aunt,
if you find yourself
cocktails such as hot
in, say, Azerbaijan but visit any farmers’ market, and
toddies or mulled wine.
in need of a fix. you’ll quickly see that the raw,
—SCOTT DESIMON nutritional powerhouses pictured
above have become, well, cool
(touché, Aunt Pat). —A.R.
A. Buckwheat: Not all will have an

ROCK THE BROC

awesome pink hue, but they’ll have
an earthy flavor nonetheless, perfect
2
for finishing your next bowl of whole
FROM P. 73 Broccoli stems are grain goodness.
an oft-overlooked delicacy. I B. Alfalfa: Neutral taste, high crunch
roast them in long, diagonal slices factor, it’s the classic sprout. Swap in
NESTOR (PORTRAIT); CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (BREAD).

with just a few florets attached for lettuce in chopped salads.

for soaking up dressing or sauce. C. Radish: Sturdy and spicy tops

Here’s how to make the cut. —C.S. with a petite stem. Look for the
ones with reddish bottoms for style
1. Trim the woody end of the stem, points. Toss into salads or on tacos,
then position your knife there, at a or scatter over rice.
45-degree angle.
D. Arugula: This is the tiniest, most
2. Cut ¼"-thick slices on the diagonal, delicate arugula in all the land. Use
working your way up the stem to as you would alfalfa for the same
the florets. Some slices will have crunch with more kick.
leaves attached. You want these!
E. Sunflower: Nutty taste with
3. Any remaining florets can be dense, ultra-crunchy texture. These
sliced and roasted alongside the can hold their own, lightly dressed,
stems, or saved for another use. with a miso vinaigrette.

JA N UA RY 20 1 5 • B O N A P P E T I T.C O M 99
recipe index JANUARY 2015
We’ll have what
they’re having
(at NYC’s El Rey).
BREAKFAST
5-Grain Porridge with
Bee Pollen, Apples,
and Coconut p.56
Chickpea Pancakes
with Leeks, Squash,
and Yogurt p.59
Chile-and-Olive-
Oil-Fried Egg with
Avocado and Sprouts
p.56
Lentils with Cucumbers,
Chard, and Poached
Egg p.59
Smoked Salmon
Breakfast Salad with
Crispbread p.56
BEVERAGES
The Greenest
Smoothie p.56
Mae Rose Cocktail p.17
SOUPS,
SANDWICHES
Beet Soup with
Caraway p.40
Bresaola and Cheddar
p.64
Brothy Poached
Chicken with
Mushrooms and
Fresh Chile p.34
1 0 2 B O N A P P E T I T.C O M • JA N UA RY 2 0 1 5
sourcebook
SHOPPING LIST
THE BA Q&A p.  20
GUCCI DRESS $3,700; matchesfashion.com
NEW HEALTHY 2015 pp.  50–93
P. 53
BOWLS $13 each; Fishs Eddy; 212-420-9020
P. 58
TENUGUI “SHIBORI” CLOTH $13;
tortoisegeneralstore.com
P. 76
TILES $12 each; importsfrommarrakesh.com
TRAVEL PLANNER
R.S.V.P. pp.  12–13
BOLLYWOOD THEATER 2039 N.E. Alberta
St., Portland, OR; 971-200-4711;
bollywoodtheaterpdx.com
THE OPTIMIST 914 Howell Mill Rd., Atlanta;
404-477-6260; theoptimistrestaurant.com
PÊCHE 800 Magazine St., New Orleans;
504-522-1744; pecherestaurant.com
SALT AIR 1616 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, CA;
310-396-9333; saltairvenice.com
THE FOODIST pp.  15–18
ARGUELLO 50 Moraga Ave., San Francisco;
415-561-3650; arguellosf.com
BOKA 1729 N. Halsted St., Chicago; 312-337-6070;
bokachicago.com
BOULI BAR 1 Ferry Building, Suite 35, San
Francisco; 415-399-1177; bouletteslarder.com
BROOKLYN KOLACHE CO. 520 Dekalb Ave., Brooklyn,
NY; 718-398-1111; brooklynkolacheco.com
COSME 35 E. 21st St., NYC; 212-913-9659;
cosmenyc.com
DOVE’S LUNCHEONETTE 1545 N. Damen Ave.,
Chicago; 773-645-4060; doveschicago.com
DUSEK’S 1227 W. 18th St., Chicago; 312-526-3851;
dusekschicago.com
EDMUND’S OAST 1081 Morrison Dr., Charleston;
843-727-1145; edmundsoast.com
FRANKIES 457 457 Court St., Brooklyn, NY;
718-403-0033; frankiesspuntino.com
KINGS KOLACHE kingskolacheny.com for locations
MINERO 155 East Bay St., Charleston;
Peppered Butter and MEAT Gochujang-and- 843-789-2241; minerorestaurant.com
Pears p.65 Pork Chops with Sesame-Roasted PARACHUTE 3500 N. Elston Ave., Chicago;
773-654-1460; parachuterestaurant.com
Carrots and Toasted Winter Squash
Pickled Peppers and PÉPÉ LE MOKO 407 S.W. Tenth Ave., Portland, OR;
Buckwheat p.93 p.41
Boquerónes p.64 503-546-8537; pepelemokopdx.com
Seared Sweet Red Rice Salad PUBLICAN QUALITY MEATS 825 W. Fulton Market,
Ricotta, Kale, and with Pecans, Fennel, Chicago; 312-445-8977; publicanqualitymeats.com
Mushroom p.65 Potatoes with Sausage
and Radicchio p.90 and Herbs p.73 SHAKE SHACK shakeshack.com for locations
SOUVLA 517 Hayes St., San Francisco;
Sweet and Salty Figs Roasted and Charred
p.63 Weeknight Porchetta 415-400-5458; souvlasf.com
p.30 Broccoli with Peanuts ST. PHILIP PIZZA PARLOR + BAKE SHOP 4715 S. Lamar
p.73 Blvd., Austin; 512-358-7445; stpaustin.com
Trout Roe and Turnips
POULTRY STUMPTOWN COFFEE ROASTERS
p.64 “Tandoori” Carrots with
Brothy Poached stumptowncoffee.com for locations
Your New Avocado Vadouvan Spice and
Chicken with TØRST 615 Manhattan Ave., Brooklyn, NY;
Toast p.65 Yogurt p.73 718-389-6034; torstnyc.com
Mushrooms and WALLFLOWER 235 W. 12th St., NYC;
Fresh Chile p.34 ENERGY BARS wallflowernyc.com
SALADS
PASTA Chocolate Coconut THE BA Q&A p.  20
Crunchy Turnip, CHAMPS FAMILY BAKERY 176 Ainslie St., Brooklyn,
Apple, and Brussels Pasta with Anchovy Date Bars p.77
NY; 718-599-2743; champsdiner.com
Sprout Slaw p.73 Butter and Broccoli Crunchy Cashew-
Rabe p.31 THE DRINK p.  26
Sesame Bars p.76 AVA GENE’S 3377 S.E. Division St., Portland, OR;
Red Rice Salad
with Pecans, Fennel, Seedy Cherry-Quinoa 971-229-0571; avagenes.com
VEGETARIAN
Bars p.76 PUBLIC SERVICES WINE & WHISKY 202 Travis
and Herbs p.73 Chickpeas and
St., Suite 100, Houston; 713-516-8897;
Roasted Citrus and Chard with Poached publicservicesbar.com
Avocado Salad p.35 Eggs p.90 DESSERTS REYNARD 80 Wythe Ave., Brooklyn, NY;
Chocolate-Rye 718-460-8004; reynardnyc.com
VEGETABLES, Crumb Cake p.82 ROMAN’S 243 Dekalb Ave., Brooklyn, NY;
MAIN COURSES 718-622-5300; romansnyc.com
SIDE DISHES
PHOTOGRAPH BY PEDEN + MUNK
SEAFOOD Cinnamon-Date Buns NAVIGATOR: OAHU pp.  42–46
Freekeh Paella with Beets with Goat p.83 AGU 925 Isenberg St., Honolulu;
Clams and Almond Cheese, Nigella Seeds, Hazelnut Butter and 808-492-1637; aguramen.com
Aioli p.93 and Pistachios p.73 FRANKIE’S NURSERY 41-999 Mahiku Pl., Waimanalo;
Coffee Meringues 808-259-8737; frankiesnursery.com
Mackerel with Big Batch of Oven- p.83 GIOVANNI’S 56-505 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku;
Cauliflower “Couscous” Steamed Beets p.40 Oat and Pistachio 808-293-1839; giovannisshrimptruck.com
HANALEI TARO & JUICE CO. 5-5070 Kuhio Hwy.,
and Tahini p.90 Sandies p.83
Crunchy Turnip, Hanalei, Kauai; 808-826-1059; hanaleitaro.com
Spicy Charred Octopus Apple, and Brussels Pecan Monkey Bread HAWAII BEEKEEPERS’ ASSOCIATION
p.13 Sprout Slaw p.73 p.12 hawaiibeekeepers.org for information
HAWAIIAN CHIP COMPANY hawaiianchipcompany.com for locations
KAHUKU SUPERETTE 56-505 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku; 808-293-9878
KAIMUKI SUPERETTE 3458 Waialae Ave., Honolulu; 808-734-7800;
kaimukisuperette.com
KAMEHAMEHA BAKERY 1284 Kalani St., Honolulu; 808-845-5831
KOKO HEAD CAFE 1145C Twelfth Ave., Honolulu; 808-732-8920;
kokoheadcafe.com
LA MARIANA SAILING CLUB 50 Sand Island Access Rd., Honolulu;
808-848-2800; lamarianasailingclub.com
MACKEY’S SWEET SHRIMP TRUCK 66-632 Kamehameha Hwy., Haleiwa;
808-780-1071; mackeysshrimptruck.com
MANA BU’S 1618 S. King St., Honolulu; 808-358-0287; hawaiimusubi.com
MW RESTAURANT 1538 Kapiolani Blvd., Suite 106, Honolulu; 808-955-6505;
mwrestaurant.com
THE PIG & THE LADY 83 N. King St., Honolulu; 808-585-8255;
thepigandthelady.com
ROMY’S KAHUKU PRAWNS & SHRIMP 56-781 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku;
808-232-2202; romyskahukuprawns.org
SEA & BOARD SPORTS HAWAII 66-485 Kilioe Place, Haleiwa;
808-352-9755; sbshawaii.us
SHIMAZU STORE 330 N. School St., Honolulu; 808-371-8899
SUNRISE POOL BAR AT THE MODERN HONOLULU 1775 Ala Moana Blvd.,
Honolulu; 855-970-4161; themodernhonolulu.com/honolulu-resort-pool
TOWN 3435 Waialae Ave., Honolulu; 808-735-5900; townkaimuki.com
WAIOLA SHAVE ICE 2135 Waiola St., Honolulu; 808-949-2269;
waiolashaveice.com
OH YEAH! pp.  52–59
EL REY 100 Stanton St., NYC; 212-260-3950; elreynyc.com
OWEN + ALCHEMY 2355 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago; 773-227-3444;
owenandalchemy.com
SQIRL 720 N. Virgil Ave., Suite 4, Los Angeles; 323-284-8147; sqirlla.com
VEG IN pp.  66–73
DIMES 143 Division St., NYC; 212-240-9410; dimesnyc.com
RUSTIC CANYON 1119 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, CA; 310-393-7050;
rusticcanyonwinebar.com
SARMA 249 Pearl St., Somerville, MA; 617-764-4464;
sarmarestaurant.com
GENERATION JUICE pp.  74–75
MOON JUICE 507 Rose Ave., Venice, CA; 310-399-2929;
moonjuiceshop.com
SWEET-ISH pp.  78–83
THE LONDON PLANE 300 Occidental Ave. S., Seattle; 206-624-1374;
thelondonplaneseattle.com
MULBERRY & VINE 73 Warren St., NYC; 212-791-6300;
mulberryandvine.com
ALT-MAINS pp.  86–93
MADCAPRA Grand Central Market, 317 S. Broadway, Los Angeles;
madcapra.com

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back of the napkin

TWO FOR ONE

“When I first came to

Britain in 1987, I ordered
a ham and cheese
sandwich. They gave me
two sandwiches: one
ham and one cheese.”

Tim Burton
From the face-smacking shrimp
cocktails in Beetlejuice (1988) to the
river of chocolate doom that ran
through Charlie and the Chocolate
Factory (2005), food has often
played a devious role in director
Tim Burton’s fantastical films. Lesser
known was the crudely drawn title
character in 1979’s Stalk of the
Celery Monster, an animated short
that Burton, whose Big Eyes
is in theaters now, made when
he was still a student at CalArts.
All of which begs the question:
Was Hollywood’s reigning Goth
once afraid of food? Turns out, the
answer is yes: “Shrimp, crabs, and
lobsters,” Burton says. “Perhaps
I was traumatized by the film Attack
of the Crab Monsters as a child.”
(See the napkin.) As for his own
cooking, it’s not nearly as freaky—
or adventurous—as his movies.
The one dish he’s known for among
friends and family: hot dogs.
—ANDREW PARKS
PROP STYLING BY BOBBI LIN. ILLUSTRATION BY JOE WILSON.

Illustrated in London on
October 27, 2014

PHOTOGRAPH BY DANNY KIM