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Laser Cut Machinist Toolbox: 10 Steps (with Pictures) http://www.instructables.
com/id/Laser-Cut-Machinist-Toolbox/
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1 de 20 28/01/2018 1:22 p. m.
Laser Cut Machinist Toolbox: 10 Steps (with Pictures) http://www.instructables.com/id/Laser-Cut-Machinist-Toolbox/
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(https://cdn.instructables.com/FBY/Z4JA
Last year, I started acquiring more precision measuring tools

and decided to build a toolbox to safely store everything. Due to
time constraints I decided to go ahead and laser cut the parts.
These instructions are for a very sturdy 9 compartment tool box.
The drawers are designed to lock into the toolbox so they
cannot be accidentally pulled out, spilling potentially expensive
tools. A drawer lock can be added to lock both the upper
compartment and seal the drawers in place. This toolbox has so
far stood up to a year of abuse as it is carted between my
apartment and the local maker space.
The files can also be found at Thingiverse.

(https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2768972)
Step 1: Materials
Wood
2 sheets of 5 x 5 ft, 1/4 inch thick baltic birch
2 de 20 28/01/2018 1:22 p. m.
1 sheet of 12 x 15 inch, 1/16 inch thick baltic birch
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Finish
Satin polyurethane varnish
Hardware
#4 x 1/2 inch wood screws
(https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-1-1-16-in-X-30-in-Brass-
Surface-Piano-Cabinet-Hinge/3356214)
1 x Piano hinge (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-1-1-16-

in-X-30-in-Brass-Surface-Piano-Cabinet-Hinge/3356214)1-1/16-
in X 30-in Brass
4 x Latches (http://www.rockler.com/classic-oblong-catches-
select-finish)
2 x Chest handles (http://www.rockler.com/chest-handle)
1 x Straight friction lid support (http://www.rockler.com/friction-

lid-supports-straight)
8 x Box corners (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product

/B000BQRG3C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&
psc=1)
13 x Jewelry box knobs - 5/16 inch (http://www.rockler.com

/solid-brass-knobs-select-size)
1 x Lid handle (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product

/B00DQCLJ2W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&
psc=1)
1 x Desk drawer lock (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-

13-16-in-Brass-Die-Cast-Drawer-and-Cabinet-Lock/3407870)
Foam Inserts
Drawer lining - Michaels 12x18inch foam sheet
(http://www.michaels.com/12x18-foam-sheet-by-creatology
/M10597609.html)
Tool holding foam - Harbor Freight anti-fatigue foam mat

(https://www.harborfreight.com/anti-fatigue-foam-mat-set-4-
pc-62389.html)
3 de 20 28/01/2018 1:22 p. m.
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Step 2: A Few Notes About the Design
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The toolbox is designed to have double layered walls for better

protection. While everything is made from 1/4 inch baltic birch,
all of the exterior walls are 2 layers thick. This allows me to
easily add a dust lip to the upper compartment and include the
front wall to hold all of the drawers in during transport. I will refer
to the inner layer that holds all of the drawers as the inner
casing and the outer layer that will ultimately be finished with
urethane as the outer casing.
Also, be sure to take a look at the notes embedded in the

photos. Nearly every photo has a few notes to help makers.
They should really help with understanding glue up and
assembly.
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Step 3: Cut Everything Out
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The linked files contain all of the wood parts for the toolbox as
both illustrator *.ai files and *.dxf files. All wood parts are cut
from 1/4 inch baltic birch. Everything here was cut using a 150W
GWeike LC6090 laser cutter at Hack Pittsburgh. I used 80%
power at 10mm/s. I lightly sanded everything using 220 grit sand
paper on a random orbit sander. I only sanded the front and
back surfaces of each panel. A little bit of attention to sanding
here goes a long way in making sure the drawers slide smoothly.
Make sure you sand all of the inner case parts and all of the
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drawer parts.
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Toolbox.zip
Download (https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FGK/8KDA/JCUUE9ND/FGK8KDAJCUUE9ND.zip)
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FGK/8KDA/JCUUE9ND
/FGK8KDAJCUUE9ND.zip)
Step 4: Inner Case Assembly
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We can first assemble the inner case. Start by test fitting

everything to make sure you know all the parts fit and you are
familiar with the assembly. Depending on what type of glue you
use, this part may have to be done fairly quickly. I just used
some Tightbond III that I had left over from another project. You
do not need much glue to hold the parts together. You only need
a small dot of glue on each tooth. Excess glue will just give you
a harder time cleaning things up later on. First assemble the
upper two shelves that house the three smaller drawers. Glue
the dividers to the shelves and then glue the assembly to the
inner case back panel. Then, attach the 3 remaining shelf
sections to the back panel. You can then attach the side panels
for the inner case. It is easiest to do this if the the glue for all of
the shelves is still wet or at least flexible. Finally, you can add
the bottom inner case panel and the front panel that stretches
across the top of the inner casing (this forms the front of the
upper compartment). Be sure to have plenty of clamps on hand
to hold all of the parts together while they dry. I stocked up pretty
extensively at harbor freight prior to this project.
Make sure you remove any excess glue around the inside of the
joints before proceeding. Any bumps of dried glue will make it
difficult if not impossible to insert the drawers later on. It is
easiest to do this while the glue is still soft. I would usually just
scrape the glue off with a spare chisel or file it down with a
square file.
Resand the exterior to remove any excess glue on the outside of

the case and make sure all of the teeth are flush with the outer
surface of the case. This is so that nothing interferes when we
assemble the exterior casing around the interior case.
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Step 5: Assemble the Drawers
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The drawers are pretty self explanatory. Sand all of the exterior
surfaces of the box so that they can be smoothly inserted into
the inner casing. Note that one of the back panels in each
drawer very small holes ~1mm wide. The small drawers have 1
hole while the large drawers have 2 holes. The holes mark
9 de 20 28/01/2018 1:22 p. m.
where to attach the locking mechanisms. The circular
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mechanisms are cut out of the inner casing back panel to save
materials. The locking mechanisms hold the drawers in the
toolbox so that you don't accidentally pull the drawer completely
out and spill your tools. Drive a small screw (#4 x 1/2 inch)
through the back of the drawer into the locking mechanism.
Rotate the screw to loosen it so that you can easily rotate the
locking mechanism from the horizontal unlocked position to the
vertical locked position. This allows you to easily lock a drawer
into the toolbox without having to disassemble anything. The
attached video shows how the drawers are locked into the inner
casing.
Step 6: Assemble the Lid
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Assemble the inner casing lid and let it dry. Next you can build
the outer lid around the inner lid. Test fit everything and have the
parts laid out for easy glue up and rapid assembly. Assemble the
outer lid around the inner lid. Apply glue to the inner lid faces so
that both layers are solidly attached. If you are not very fast with
glue up and assembly, go with a slower setting glue so that you
are not rushed. The dust lip of the lid should readily slip over the
inner casing. I slid the lid over the inner casing after clamping
the two layers so that I was certain the lid fit without requiring
additional shaping for a good fit.
Step 7: Assemble the Outer Casing
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The outer casing glued around the inner case. Glue up the back
and sides of the outer case while also applying glue to the inner
case. Note that the outer case is taller than the inner case. The
extra space at the bottom is a storage space for the front panel.
In order to set the height for the inner case, attach the lid and
make sure the inner and outer casings are seated to the lid.
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There are two panels in the base. The inner panel has a long
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hole that locks the front panel in place. Glue the inner panel to
the outer panel and quickly glue the assembly to the inner/outer
case assembly.
Once everything is dry, fit the drawers in place. Sand the sides
as needed so they slide smoothly. Finish by sanding the front so
that all of the drawers and shelves are smooth and even.
Step 8: Assemble the Front Panel.
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First, put the inner front panel in place and use the holes as a
marking guide to fit your drawer knobs. I used jewelry box knobs
from Rocker. However, this was far more expensive than it
should have been. Next, Glue up the two front panel pieces. You
can fit them into the case so that everything is aligned. Carefully
remove the front panel and clamp as needed.
Once the glue is dry, adjust the panel fit by sanding the sides. It
also helps to either sand or use a plane to round off the panel's
bottom lip. Rounding off the the bottom lip makes it far easier to
insert the front panel when locking up the toolbox.
After assembly, I found that the knobs where a little too long and
prevented the front panel from laying flat against the drawers. I
had to carve out the knob recesses so that everything would fit.
Now that all of the parts are assembled, give the exterior a nice
sanding.
Step 9: Attach the Hardware and Finish the

Exterior
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I used piano hinge for the lid. The hinge is too long as
17 de 20 28/01/2018 1:22 p. m.
purchased, but was cut to size with a dremel. A lid support was
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also added. The lid handle was a spare handle from a Fender
amp. 4 clasps were added to the lid. This may be a bit overkill
and only may only need 2 on the front. The side handles are
attached with short screws so that they do not interfere with the
drawers. If the screw extends into the drawer space, grind away
the extra screw using a dremel tool. Brass corners were added
to the box to protect the bottom and corners. The lock is a desk
drawer lock. I bent the locking arm so that it catches the lock clip
screwed to the interior of the upper compartment. Finally,
because you never know when you need it, I added a bottle
opener and embedded a small magnet to catch the bottle caps.
After adding all these pieces, go ahead and remove them so you
can finish the box.
I applied 4 coats of a satin polyurethane varnish. Allow the

varnish to fully dry between coats and give a light sanding with
220 grit sand paper. Varnish was only applied to the outside of
the toolbox. All interior surfaces were left completely unfinished.
I laser cut a sheet of 1/16 inch thick baltic birch to lay in the
upper compartment. This will cover the holes from drawer
mechanisms. You can use any thickness you like, but I would
not go over 1/8 inch. I did not glue this piece in place in case I
ever need to gain access to the drawer mechanisms.
Reassemble everything and figure out what you are going to put
in it.
Step 10: Optional: Foam Cutting
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NOTE: The foam used in machinist tool boxes is a rather
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contentious topic. The main worry is that the foam will out gas
unknown compounds that will cause your tools to rust. In this
case I decided to use closed cell foam mats from Harbor Freight
and foam craft sheets from Michaels. I have kept a very close
eye of my tools and have not noticed any rust or issues since I
built the toolbox approx. 1 year ago. Keep in mind that this is
just a sample size of 1 and use your own judgement.
At this point, hopefully you have figured out what tools you want
to add and where. Each drawer was lined with green craft foam
cut on the laser cutter. Keep in mind that cutting foam on a laser
cutter is a greater fire hazard and use caution.
I started designing the tool layout by taking photo of the tools in

place along with a ruler for scale. Use your layout software of
choice e.g. Autocad, Illustrator, etc. to start laying out the foam
cutouts. I refined the cutouts shapes by tracing some of the tools
and taking scans. 3/4 inch wide half circles are added around
each tool to make it easier to grab each tool. The upper
compartment uses multiple layers so each tool is kept at an
even height. Note that spaces were cut for both the lid support
and the lock.
20 de 20 28/01/2018 1:22 p. m.

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Laser Cut Machinist Toolbox: 10 Steps (with Pictures) http://www.instructables.

Last year, I started acquiring more precision measuring tools

The files can also be found at Thingiverse.

1 x Piano hinge (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-1-1-16-

2 x Chest handles (http://www.rockler.com/chest-handle)

1 x Straight friction lid support (http://www.rockler.com/friction-

8 x Box corners (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product

13 x Jewelry box knobs - 5/16 inch (http://www.rockler.com

1 x Lid handle (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product

1 x Desk drawer lock (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-

Tool holding foam - Harbor Freight anti-fatigue foam mat

The toolbox is designed to have double layered walls for better

Also, be sure to take a look at the notes embedded in the

Step 3: Cut Everything Out

Step 4: Inner Case Assembly

We can first assemble the inner case. Start by test fitting

Resand the exterior to remove any excess glue on the outside of

Step 6: Assemble the Lid

Step 7: Assemble the Outer Casing

Step 8: Assemble the Front Panel.

Step 9: Attach the Hardware and Finish the

I applied 4 coats of a satin polyurethane varnish. Allow the

Step 10: Optional: Foam Cutting

I started designing the tool layout by taking photo of the tools in

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