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Basic Sewing Tools PDF
Basic Sewing Tools PDF
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SEWING
GUIDES
1 2 3 4
1 Get to the Point
by Deanna Springer
2 Basics: Marking
by Elizabeth Barry
Beth Bradley
Associate Editor, Sew News
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Get to the
Pins are a basic—but important—sewing tool.
Point
MANY OF US HAVE A PIN- resistant, and will stick to magnetic or knit fabrics. Some sharps have a
CUSHION FULL OF MYSTERY pincushions. Nickel-plated brass and more defined tapered point, designed
PINS—including dull, bent and the solid brass gilt pins are rust- and cor- to slide in and out of fabric with
free-with-dress-shirt varieties. rosion-resistant but won’t stick to ease. Ball-point needles are designed
Although we don’t often give this magnetic pincushions, and will bend for knits and lingerie fabrics.
basic sewing tool much thought, more easily than steel pins. Stainless Pins come in different lengths to
using the right pin for the job can steel pins have the maximum rust- accommodate the type of project.
make sewing easier and the results and corrosion resistance and are the Choose a pin long enough for the
better. strongest, but don’t stick to magnetic seam allowance width, fabric thick-
Because a successful project starts pincushions well. ness and the number of layers being
with the right tools, choose the Salt air or dampness may adversely pinned, but not so long that you’re
appropriate pin as you’d choose the affect steel or brass pins (although apt to stick yourself. Short pins are
correct sewing machine needle for today’s plated-steel pins are less likely useful when much pinning is neces-
the particular fabric and thread. The to rust than those of the past). sary and longer pins would get in
information in this article is based Not just for color, the head of a the way of each other. Straight pin
on research on over 75 different pin is designed for ease of handling lengths range from ½” to 2⅛” or
pins from a half dozen companies. and identification. The head may be longer. Each length is assigned a
a metal disk; plastic, glass, pearlized number or size that may be printed
Straight Pin or metal ball; flat and flower-shaped; on the packaging; multiply the size
Anatomy or T-shaped. Pins with ball heads are by 1⁄16” for the pin length (i.e., a
less likely to get lost in fabric and size 20 pin is 11⁄4” long).
Through history, pins have been
are more comfortable to grasp. Choose the correct pin shaft
made of everything from fish bones
Straight pins are available with sharp diameter for the weight and density
to ivory to copper.Today, they’re
or ball-point tips. Most pins are of the fabric. A shaft diameter of
commonly made from steel that’s
sharps and may be used with woven .40 mm is very fine, designed for
plated with nickel or brass. Plated-
very lightweight or tightly woven
steel pins are rust- and corrosion-
fabric. The higher the number the
thicker the shaft—.50 mm is fine,
.60 mm is medium and .70 mm is
heavy duty. Review and compare
the information on the packages
before you buy.
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APPLIQUÉ/SEQUIN
BALL-POINT
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Stick it to Me
Since the time of Queen
Caring for Pins Elizabeth I, people have
been using stuffed
7 Avoid stitching over pins; if the
pincushions or “pinpillows.”
needle hits the pin, it can
Pincushions were quite
damage the needle, sewing popular in the Victorian
machine or throatplate, or even era and were displayed
injure you. decoratively in many rooms
of the house.
7 Organize different pin varieties in
Today, you can choose from
separate pincushions.
whimsical pincushions, wrist
7 Discard pins when they become pincushions, decorative pin-
burred, bent or blunt, as dam- cushions, or ones that are
aged pins can cause snags and actually pins you can wear.
holes in fabric. A newer type is the magnetic
pincushion, which is also
7 Use a strawberry filled helpful for picking up spilled
with emery to clean pins. Keep magnetic pin-
and sharpen. cushions away from computer-
ized sewing machines, as they
could erase the memory.
BLANKET
CURVED
BASTING BUTTON
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basics to get you started
Marking the pieces for your sewing project is an important—and actually time-
saving—part of ensuring a successful project. Taking the time to do a good job
of it will ensure the best possible results. As you become a more experienced
sewer, you may choose shortcut techniques, but don’t avoid this step altogether.
YOU’LL NOTICE that pattern holes, such as a serrated tracing Mark most pattern details on the fab-
tissues are printed with a variety of wheel, aren’t advisable for fabrics like ric wrong side.The few exceptions to
symbols and lines that help you lay leather, vinyl or plastic-coated fabrics this rule are placement markings for
out the tissue on grain, know where because the holes will be permanent surface details such as pockets or tabs.
to place pockets, match seams and and show on the finished project. In Mark both fabric layers unless the
more.You must transfer some of this most cases a combination of marking marking is for a single detail, such as
information to the fabric pieces to aid techniques works best. a single pocket on a shirt. For button-
in the garment construction.There Always test your marking tool on a holes, one side of the garment gets
are a variety of tools and techniques scrap of the actual project fabric. If marked for buttonholes, the other for
used in transferring pattern markings the mark comes off easily with no button placement.
onto fabric. damage to the fabric, it’s fine to use If it’s difficult to tell the fabric right
Choose a marking method according on that fabric. Choose another option side from the wrong side, place a
to the fabric you’re using. For if the mark doesn’t come off com- small piece of low-tack tape on the
example, a mark that must be pletely without marring the fabric. wrong side of each project piece so
removed by water (water-soluble or Mark fabric pieces after you cut them it’s easy to discern after the pattern
dissolving pen) isn’t appropriate for out, but before moving them from the tissue is removed.
dry-clean-only fabric.Tools that make cutting table.
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1 Mark notches with 1⁄8” - 1⁄4” clips. 2 Mark using tracing wheel
and colored paper. 3 Use a combination of methods.
Clips for
Notches
Water-soluble
Pen
snips & clips wheel is most commonly used, but The pens are easy to use, and the
a smooth wheel is preferable on pointed tips allow for accurate marks.
Scissors can be a timesaving marking
delicate fabrics. Use fabric marking pens in combina-
tool. Though any pair with sharp tips
Work on a self-healing cutting mat tion with clipping and notching. For
will suffice, consider buying scissors
or a piece of cardboard to avoid example, clip the dart legs at the seam
with blades and tips designed for
damaging the table. allowance but draw the dart point with
close work such as embroidery.
a marking pen (3). Non-permanent
For patterns with 5⁄8” seam allow- Practice before using a tracing wheel
marking pens are also handy for
ances, indicate notches and darts by for the first time; learn how much
marking embroidery or embellish-
cutting ⅛” to ¼” into the fabric pressure to apply by tracing lines on
ment placement.
directly through the notch point. fabric scraps. Mark both fabric pieces
Air-soluble inks disappear with time.
Don’t cut all the way to the stitching at the same time whenever possible
Water-soluble inks need to be washed
line; this will weaken the seam. by placing folded tracing paper
away with water. Test markers before-
between the layers. Mark heavyweight
For single notches use one snip, for hand; some are permanently set by
fabrics individually.
double notches use two, and so on heat. When purchasing markers, read
(1). Notching (snipping V-shaped Place the tracing paper colored side the packaging carefully to ensure
triangles out of the seam allowances) against the fabric wrong side, under- they’re temporary.
can be used to indicate centerlines, neath the pattern tissue. Applying
hemlines and foldlines as well as slight pressure, roll the tracing wheel tailor’s chalk
notches. along the lines using a ruler as a
Tailor’s chalk is a classic marking
Check the seam allowance width. guide (2). Move the tracing paper
product and works on just about any
If the pattern has ¼” seam allowances, after each mark to ensure coverage,
fabric because it’s easily removed and
snipping isn’t an option; choose and trace all of the necessary lines.
doesn’t leave a residue. Being easily
another marking method. If you want to trace stitching lines for removable may be a problem for proj-
a multisize pattern (cutting lines, not ects that are heavily handled during
tracing wheel stitching lines, are marked on multi- construction. Tailor’s chalk comes in a
& paper size patterns), first mark the stitching variety of colors and may have a
Tracing paper has a colored surface lines on the tissue, then use that as chalky or waxy consistency. It’s avail-
that transfers to fabric when you roll your guide. able in a flat flake, a powder with an
over it with a tracing wheel. It comes Tracing paper is not the best solution applicator or in pencil form. The
in a variety of colors and is either for marking on the fabric right side. chalk type works best on flat surfaces
water-soluble or waxed. Water-soluble However, if that is the only tool while the wax version performs better
marks are easily removed with a available for buttonhole and pocket on textured fabrics such as boucle or
damp cloth. placements, transfer the markings to corduroy.
Avoid waxed tracing paper as the the fabric wrong side, then baste
marks can be difficult to remove. If through the markings with silk thread bar soap
you must use them, mark only on the to show through on the right side. Household bar soap is a marking tool
fabric wrong side. Choose the lightest nearly every sewer has. Save white
color paper possible that’s visible on fabric marking pens soap slivers for sewing projects that
the fabric in case the markings don’t Air-soluble and wash-away marking will be laundered when finished. Use
come out. The serrated or sawtooth pens revolutionized marking transfer. a knife to trim the ends to maintain a
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pattern symbology
COMMONLY FOUND SYMBOLS, what they mean and how to
4 Take two stitches leaving a large loop buttons and buttonholes but final locations are best determined after
and long ends.
the pattern is altered and fitted to you. Use tailor’s tacks, chalk, non-
Darts look like triangles with one jagged edge where they cross a
permanent ink pens or stickers.
Tailor's Tack
seamline. The dart’s legs can be notched or snipped in the seam
allowance but the exact location of the dart point should be marked
Dots, squares and triangles are used for matching purposes and
with a pin, tailor’s tack or non-permanent ink pen.
sharp edge. Avoid soaps with oils neckline or hemline markings. Depending on the project, you may
Notches. Single, double and triple notches are used for matching.
straight pins
Use straight pins to mark details that
Always match the same size of notch. These are most often marked
will be immediately sewn or basted.
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All About
THREAD
DEVIN GENTRY
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When it comes to thread, there’s more to it than meets the eye.
THREAD IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT 7 Silk thread is made from long continuous natural fibers
SUPPLIES IN YOUR SEWING BOX.Without it, how that result in added durability. Silk thread is more expen-
would you embroider your favorite scarf, sew gifts or sive, but it’s a good choice for tailoring because it stretches
repair a ripped couch cushion? and doesn’t leave impressions.
Good thread is a great tool. Look for thread that’s
strong, smooth and consistent in thickness. Look at how machine-embroidery thread
the thread is wrapped around the spool. If it’s wound
crosswise, the thread design travels up and down around Machine-embroidery thread is available in various colors,
the spool, which reduces the stress on the thread and textures and sizes and is designed to fill in smoothly
creates constant tension. without breaking.
7 Rayon embroidery thread is very strong and colorfast.
basic sewing thread It can be used for quilting, decorative stitching or embel-
Basic, or all-purpose, sewing thread comes in several
lishment. Rayon embroidery thread works best with high-
varieties, but all of them are strong and durable and easily density woven fabrics.
adjust for shrinkage. 7 Quality metallic thread is made by applying an outer
7 Mercerized cotton thread is made of natural fiber that’s coating over thin strips of rice paper.The coated rice
treated with a solution that causes the fibers to swell.This paper is then stacked over a nylon core. Metallic thread is
increases the thread’s strength and allows the dye to better for decorative stitching and should be used with a larger-
penetrate the fibers. Mercerized cotton thread is best used eyed needle specified for the purpose. It’s strong enough
on natural-fiber woven fabrics. for use on soft furnishings, decorative seams and quilting.
7 Polyester thread is synthetically produced by pressing 7 Trilobal polyester thread comes in single color or multi-
resins that solidify as filaments through small holes in the color variations.Trilobal refers to the three lobes of polyester
thread. Polyester thread is ideal for knits because it’s heavy- fiber that make the thread reflect light.This thread is usually
duty, retains its shape, recovers stretch and is colorfast. very shiny and has a high anti-raveling property. It washes
well at high temperatures and can be used universally
although embroidery is its main use.
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serger thread
Serger thread is made of the
same fibers as conventional
thread; but is specially
designed for high-speed
resources
sewing. It’s finer in size than “All About Sewing Threads: Numbers,
Types, Costs and Quality” published by
all-purpose thread because Wildly Wonderful Wearables:
more strands are used to the www.wwwearables.com/savvy/thread.htm.
form the stitch. The finer size “Is There a Difference in Threads? You
allows for less seam bulk. Be the Judge” published by About.com:
Use all-purpose thread in the http://sewing.about.com/library/weekly/
aa102100a.htm.
needle and serger thread in
the loopers for a professional “Learning to Love Specialty Threads”
by Robert Purcell of Superior Threads,
look. Try one of these serger published by About.com:
threads on your next project. http://sewing.about.com/library/weekly/
blsuperior.htm.
7 Wooly Nylon
“Specialized Serger Threads” published
7 Nylon by Fabricland West:
7 100% Cotton www.fabrclandwest.com/notion_basics/
monthlynotionfeatures/
7 Lint-Free Polyester tying_it_all_together.htm.
7 Metallic
sources
7 Rayon
American & Efird, www.amefird.com,
(800) 453-5128 or (704) 827-4311,
provided the lavender mercerized cotton
and pink-stripe trilobal polyester thread.
Horn of America,
www.hornofamerica.com, (800) 882-
8845, provided the thread tray image.
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basics to get you started
NEEDLES
SARAH J. DOYLE
is threaded from the front to the back,
the rounded side should face the front.
This positions the needle groove toward
the thread, guiding the thread as it
feeds through the needle.
Many sewers get caught up trying to
complete a project and move on to the
next one, usually because they have
limited time. It’s very easy to jump from
one project to the next without giving
any thought to whether or not you have
the right needle in the sewing machine.
Using the same needle for everything
you sew until the needle breaks can be
a costly mistake. The needle size you use
for a project depends upon the size of
the fiber yarns in the fabric. The finer
the yarns, the finer the needle needs to
be. In general, a needle should be fine
enough to penetrate the fabric without
marring it, yet have a large enough eye
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1
Flat side
Grooved
side
that the thread doesn’t fray or break designed for heavy or multiple layers
during sewing. of leather or vinyl.
2
Needle Types Needle Sizes Needle bar
Needle
Needle types related to fabric structure In addition to choosing the right type clamp
are sharp-point (regular) for woven of needle, it’s also important to know
fabrics, ball-point for knits, and wedge- the proper needle size. As a general Needle-clamp
screw
point for leather and vinyl (3). rule, utilize the following fabric category/
needle size information when choosing
Flat side
The regular sharp-point needle is ideal the needle for your project. to back
for all types of woven fabrics because it
helps produce even stitches and causes Delicate fabrics, such as silk, chiffon,
a minimal amount of fabric puckering. voile, fine lace and organdy, need a fine
This needle isn’t recommended for size 9 needle. Larger needles make larger
knits, as it has a tendency to cut yarns holes and would damage the delicate
and cause skipped stitches. The needle fabric yarns. Additionally, larger needles 3
comes in a wide range of sizes from cause delicate fabric to pucker.
Regular sharp needle
the finest size 9 to a heavy size 18.
The regular sharp-point needle is Lightweight fabrics, such as synthetic
also available in a twin or triple needle. sheers, batiste, taffeta, velvet, stretch fabric,
Use twin and triple needles for fancy spandex and tricot, take a size 11 needle. Ball-point needle
topstitching or for topstitching flat-
felled seams that are typically used in Mediumweight fabrics, such as gingham,
jeans or for denim jackets or skirts. poplin, linen, muslin, chambray, wool
crepe, flannel, knit, jersey, wool, chintz, Wedge-point needle
The ball-point needle is designed for satin, raw silk, wool suiting and drapery
knit and elastic or spandex fabrics and fabrics, take a size 14 needle. Inserting a needle into
has a rounded point rather than a sharp
point. This needle pushes between the
the machine will vary
Medium heavy fabrics, such as sail cloth,
fabric yarns rather than cutting through gabardine, heavy suiting, tweed and heavy as to whether the needle eye
them. It comes in sizes 9 to 16; the drapery fabrics, take a size 16 needle. faces the front or side. Check
larger the needle size, the more rounded the instruction manual to
the needle point. Heavy fabrics, such as denim, overcoatings,
determine the needle position
ticking, upholstery and canvas, take a
The wedge-point needle, designed for size 18 needle. for your machine.
leather and vinyl, easily pierces these Such a variety of needle types and
fabrics to make a hole that closes back sizes can seem overwhelming when all
on itself. This eliminates unattractive you want to do is sew. Most sewers do you’ve sewn in the past year. How
holes in the fabric and reduces the basically the same type of sewing— many different fabric types did you
risk of the stitches tearing the fabric. clothing for themselves and their children, use? Does your sewing span the entire
Wedge-point needles come in sizes 11 craft projects, quilting, etc., so they range from delicate fabrics to heavy
to 18. Size 11 is designed for soft pliable don’t need every needle type and size denims or does it just include one or
leathers and thin suedes; size 18 is available. Think about the projects two basic fabric types?
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Always replace dull, bent Keeping Track Bobbins
or nicked needles. If you hit When you replace the needle between As important as needles are to the
a pin, immediately change sewing projects, what do you do with sewing machine, your projects won’t
the needle you removed from the have a professional appearance if you
the needle. A bent needle, machine? Throw it into an empty don’t wind the bobbin correctly.
breath mint container along with the
even if only slightly bent
others? This defeats the purpose of Always start with an empty bobbin;
or nicked, can cause skipped changing needles. You could use a small never wind one color over another
plastic container that has a number of color. Don’t wind the bobbin so full
stitches and can easily divided sections, and then mark the that it’s tight and difficult to insert into
damage fabric. sections with the needle type and size the bobbin case. Wind the bobbin
being stored. But a better option is evenly across and in level layers (5).
to make a small book from non-tear
pattern paper (such as Pattern Ease) Keep lint out of the bobbin area. Lint
to store the needles. and broken or frayed pieces of thread
accumulate in the bobbin area and can
Cut several 3”x 6”rectangles from the cause problems when sewing.
pattern paper. Stack the paper, and
stitch a line down the center. Write Use the correct bobbin for your machine.
the type and size at the top of each If you bought extra bobbins for your
page for the needles you use most. machine or received some from another
person, double check to make sure the
When replacing the needle between bobbins are the correct type. Z
projects, place the needle being
removed back into the book where it
belongs, and take out the needle you Sarah J. Doyle is the author of over 25
need for the current project (4). sewing, craft and how-to books as seen at
sewwithsarah.com. She teaches pattern-
This type of needle holder won’t tear as making classes at patternsthatfityou.com,
and designs patterns for plus-size children
you use and replace the needles, and it (plussizechildren.com).
keeps all of your needles in a compact
book that’s readily available.
4 5 Right Wrong
Ball-point - 9 Ball-point - 11
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how to Basics to get you started
hand-sewing needles
Most projects include some hand sewing as well as machine
sewing. Choosing the proper hand-sewing needle affects the
overall workmanship of your project.
@SH12: 12/12 Helv. Light
Extended
Many hand-sewing needles exist, each with a specific purpose.
Hand-sewing needles vary according to eye shape (long or round),
length
@HTB 1 & (in2:proportion to the eye) and point (sharp, blunt, ball-point
Bembo 10/12.
or wedge). Some needles,
Character: Lead-in Bullet. HTB bold such &
as crewel, are named for their
principal
italic. purposes.
The following are the most common hand-sewing needles and
their general purposes. Each needle type includes a size range;
the larger the number, the shorter and finer the needle.
7 Sharps (sizes 1-12) are the most commonly used hand-sewing
A Sharps needles. They’re medium length, have a round eye and are suit-
able for almost all fabric weights (A).
7 Betweens (sizes 1-12) are also known as quilting needles.
Their shorter length enables you to make fine stitches in heavy
fabric (B).
B Betweens
7 Milliners (sizes 3/0-12) are longer needles and work well
for basting and any type of needlework that needs a running
stitch (C).
7 Cotton Darners (sizes 1-9) are designed for darning with fine
C Milliner cotton or wool. They vary in length and diameter to accommodate
most darning or mending jobs (D).
7 Calyx-Eyes (sizes 4-8) are similar to sharps except the thread is
pulled into a slot rather than threaded through an eye (E).
D Cotton darners
7 Tapestry Needles (sizes 13-26) are heavy and have blunt points.
They’re used mainly for needlepoint and tapestry work. You can
also use a tapestry needle in place of a bodkin (F).
For heavy-duty sewing jobs that include leather, vinyl, plastic or
E Calyx eye canvas, you have two choices: Glovers (sizes 3/0-8), which are
short, round-eye needles with triangular points that easily pierce
leathers or plastics without tearing them, or Sailmakers (sizes
14-17). Sailmakers are similar to glovers except they’re longer and
the triangular point extends partway up the shaft. Sailmakers are
used on canvas and heavy leather.
There are many other types of hand-sewing needles (long thin
beading needles; curved upholstery needles; large-eyed yarn
darners; medium-length, long-eyed crewels for embroidery; etc.).
F Tapestry The types listed are the most commonly used.
Select a needle based on the work being done, fabric structure
(knit or woven), weight and thread thickness. Generally, a needle
should be fine enough to slip easily through the fabric, yet heavy
enough not to bend or break. Whatever the type of hand-sewing
needle you choose, always work with a clean, well-pointed needle.
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