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Geographical Review.
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Whence have these people come? Have they remained in the same state since the
creation of the world? What could have tempted a tribe of men leaving the fine
regions of the North . . . to enter upon one of the most inhospitable countries
in the world? Such & many other reflections must occupy the mind of every one
who views one of these poor savages . . . the race of Fuegians.
-Charles Darwin's Diary of the Voyage of H.M.S. "Beagle," edited from the MS
by Nora Barlow, 1933.
IN the Geographical Review for April, 1934, the status of our knowl-
edge of Southern Patagonia was discussed with reference to the
structure, climate, natives, and economic prospects.' Since then
two and a half years of archeological field work in the region under
the direction of the American Museum of Natural History has thrown
additional light on the antiquity and migrations of the early inhabit-
ants and incidentally on certain geological and possible climatic
changes.
There are several good reasons why little effort has been made
to uncover the history of man in Patagonia distance, expense, more
urgent problems nearer home, too little promise of results yet work
in the region is not without its rewards.
It will be well to discuss briefly the environmental factors. And
first I wish to emphasize the fact that Patagonia is by no means the
bleak, forbidding country of popular conception. Its bad reputation
dates from the days of sailing vessels, when conditions offshore were
thought to be indicative of the nature of the land. And since then
too many writers have carried on the old tradition. Even the primi-
tive state of the natives has been attributed to the climate, but men
have lived successfully under worse and severer conditions without
stagnating or degenerating. And I cannot ascribe my difference of
opinion to a current improvement in the climate. An examination
of sections cut from scattered examples of the oldest living trees avail-
able on the western and southern channels2 seems to show that the
*A preliminary report of results obtained in Southern Patagonia from November, 1932, to May,
I933, and from November, I934, to April, I937. On the second expedition I was accompanied by my
wife, who participated in all phases of the work. For a narrative of the journeys see Natural History,
Vol. 4I, I938, pp. I6-28, 77, and 79.
1 W. E. Rudolph: Southern Patagonia as Portrayed in Recent Literature, Geogr. Re?,.,Vol. 24,
I934, pp. 25I-27I.
Sections of coigue and roble were cut at Puerto Eugenia, Woolyia, at Rio Douglas, on Navarino
2
Island, and at Yendagaia Bay, Tierra del Fuego. About twenty sections from Puerto Eugenia show a
fairly consistent pattern, as do a number of samples from Vendagaia. Samples of cypresa from Puerto
Rio Frio and Puerto Eden, Wellington Island, show conformity within that group. An increased
growth from i8oo to i8I6 is indicated there and is probably a local condition. Some of this material
was examined at New Haven, the remainder I have checked myself.
250
along the same line into two re- Wlelliritol: du\u S oian|
gions as different from each other
as Norway and our Western plains.
e Cru
gems/a.
The basic material cultures of the T,/Inj
t Ce'azR"'
6a/I gas
The knife made from the shell of a single species of mussel, the giant
chorro, has likewise played a unique role. It is almost as effective as
a knife of iron and is certainly superior to one made from the available
stones. Only where the chorro shell was difficult to obtain, at the
margin of its habitat south of the Strait, did the canoe people even-
tually utilize stone for knives.
Hence in a region where excessive rain and wind and rough topog-
raphy combined to discourage primitive occupation the fundamental
necessities were at hand for overcoming the difficulties presented.
FIG. 2-Shell mound on Capera Guapi Island, Gulf of Reloncavi. Maximum thickness i6 feet.
Specimens of the types shown in Figure 22, with the exception of pottery, were found here.
MND
f; ,1 : --
iffi
FIG. 3-Peak of Mount Corcovado (2300 meters) showing above the clouds.
has ever been made, not even today, when the population of Chiloe
is overflowing to other parts of Chile. The islands are, on the whole,
low and there are many east-west passages, so that excessive rain falls
over the whole group. Beaches and landing places are very rare,
and we failed to find a single midden.
It may be well to remind the reader-it has been noted before5-
of one valuable clue in the locating of old camping places. Normally
the boggy soil of the zone of heavy rains is highly acid. At the camp-
ing places this acidity is neutralized by the shell refuse to such an
extent that plants and shrubs which prefer acid soil do poorly whereas
forms which tolerate limy soil thrive. The resultant growth is dis-
cernible at some distance, and the effect holds for sites abandoned
for more than a century and probably longer.
As no traces of Indian camps could be found around the few har-
bors on the outer side of the Taitao Peninsula, a search was made
about the reputed mouth of the San Tadeo River, on the south side
of the Isthmus of Ofqui. But at the site shown on the map we found
a submerged forest (Fig. 4), which may indicate subsidence of the
land. Otter hunters told us later that boats drawing less than three
feet can get through at high tide into a channel running back through
an extensive swamp. As there was no dry ground, this site was a total
loss archeologically. Perhaps the condition has resulted from local
shoreline changes; but, as indications of submergence were noted
around the Gulf of Reloncavi, it may be that the coast between Puerto
Montt and the Gulf of Penas is sinking at the present time. No
similar evidence was found farther south.
_A _ -
FIG. 4-The entrance to Jacaf Channel (Lat. 440 iS' S.), looking towards the northeast.
.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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FIG. s-Gajardo Narrows. An unnamed glacier descending from the icecap which covers the interior of
Mufloz Gamero Peninsula.
Br,' I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
FIG. 6-Submerged forest at the entrance to Rio San Tadeo, south side of the Isthmus of Ofqul.
256
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258
are high enough to have snow the year round, the rainfall along the
inner channels is probably less than it might otherwise be. We have
no records to substantiate this, however, unless we interpret the pres-
ence of the shell mounds along the inner channels as a reflection of
this more favorable condition. Here also are found the purest rem-
nants of the Alacaluf tribe, living almost as their ancestors did when
first seen by whites.
In the middens we found evidence of a simple, primitive, shell-
knife culture. There was also the same coarse percussion stonework
found near Puerto Montt, and, in addition, there were small, single-
barbed harpoons for seals and bone awls and evidence of the use of bark
canoes. We found no proof that the later stonework of the north
reached this latitude. A single example of pressure work, of late
manufacture, is of a pattern found farther south but not in the north.
Here also there was no scale for an age estimate. In areas now heavily
forested several of the largest middens had been begun on bare rock
or gravel. This need not mean any great age, since the progressive
spread of vegetation can be observed as one travels back in the fiords
toward the icecap. It is impossible to do more than generalize re-
garding the interpretation of the increasing vegetation. It is clear
that in places the ice has retreated faster than mosses and lichens
can spread over the exposed rocks, and this shows that the climate
has swung away from the conditions of temperature and precipitation
necessary to maintain the ice at static limits. We cannot say how long
this change has been in effect or how constant it has been. All that
is certain is that because of it considerable change has occurred in the
vegetation since people first occupied the region.
From Trinidad Gulf to the islands west of Tierra del Fuego there
was very little refuse and none of the middens seen were large. This
may possibly be attributed to the large extent of territory, in which
a small population could exist for a long time without leaving much
evidence of occupation on any one spot.
In the Strait of Magellan, Elizabeth Island, opposite the eastern
limit of the forest, seems to mark the eastern boundary of the canoe
people's travels. Canoe runways were seen at Fenton Station, at the
entrance to Oazy Harbor, but no midden refuse was found. Here,
at the edge of the forest, at the eastern ends of Skyring and Otway
Sounds, and perhaps in the Ultima Esperanza district, the canoe
people had opportunity to observe the hunting equipment of the
Foot Indians and to make cultural exchanges with them.
Brecknock Peninsula, at the west end of Beagle Channel, has been
mentioned as a barrier to migration between the western islands and
those south of Beagle Channel, but it is no worse than similar exposed
passages farther north that are crossed whenever occasion demands.
It is true that it probably marks the boundary between Alacaluf and
Yahgan territory; but Yahgan house sites and implements are found
on Elizabeth Island, and Alacaluf have been down to Navarino Island
in recent years.
THE BEAGLE CHANNEL COUNTRY
The western Beagle Channel country has the same aspect as the
country farther west and north. The rain-laden wind from the Pacific
nourishes the same type of vegetation; but by the time it reaches Cape
Divide it has lost most of its moisture. East of the cape the recorded
rainfall is only one-sixth of that measured at the west end of Magellan
Strait. The evergreen beech is replaced largely by the deciduous
variety. The tepii disappears and is replaced by the leiia dura, not
found in the west.
With the changes in climate and flora an equally marked change
in topography occurs. Here the mountains have sloping foreshores,
beaches replace the steep, rocky shores, and camping places can be
found anywhere. It is small wonder, then, that this was the scene
of the most intensive occupation in the whole coastal region, espe-
cially since, with Staten and Wollaston Islands which are less favor-
able, it was a terminal. As a result, every possible camping place has
been used, and on the best sites large middens have been formed.6
It was here that we did most of our digging in the refuse of the
canoe people, and with good results. The places selected cover the
range of seasonal activities: one large rock shelter in an area where
guanacos could be hunted in winter, when the animals were forced to
come down into the forest; a second shelter, near a lagoon where fish-
ing is good at times; a third shelter, conveniently near seal rocks;
another camp, good only in summer, because in winter it lies in shade
and is snow-covered; and still another, which was desirable the year
round and offered a safe harbor for canoes in all weathers. This selec-
tion should assure examples of all the types of artifacts that might
endure under such conditions.
The material obtained shows that this region was occupied by
two culturally distinguishable groups. The older brought in the
things found in the western channels (see Fig. 2I) and in addition two
items that originated with the Foot Indians. The stonework is still
of the rough percussion type; but small snub-nosed or hafted scrapers
and an occasional side scraper were also found, both of which were
unknown in the western channels. With them were bolas, in clear
association with the oldest material. It is noteworthy that the oldest
8See S. K. Lothrop: The Indians of Tierra del Fuego, Contribs. Museum of the Amer. Indian,
Heye Foundation, Vol. IO, 1928, pp. I78-i89.
bolas are the best-made of all those found, as though they had been
obtained from the land people; whereas the later ones are poor imita-
tions. The presence here of these articles gave us our first evidence
that the land people had reached the Strait of Magellan first.
The second occupation of Navarino Island was marked by the
introduction of the bow and arrow, the pressure-flaked stone arrow,
FIG. io-Shell mound at Puerto Pescado, Navarino Island. Maximum thickness of the deposit
about 13 feet. Undercutting due to tidal currents.
spear and knife points, bone wedges, drinking tubes, and a new type
of house (see Fig. 20).
The house of the first people must have been similar to that still
in use among the Alacalufs-oval in outline, with two entrances.
Shells were tossed from both entrances, so that a heap accumulated
on each side of the fire hearth. The use of this house, along with the
introduced type, still survived among the Yahgans within the memory
of the oldest people now living. The introduced type was made by
digging a circular pit I12to i8 feet wide, in some cases more than three
feet deep, but with only one entrance. The two types can easily be
distinguished on the present surface by the outline and by the ac-
companying single or double heap of shells. The pit house offers a
clue to the origin of these people. The west coast is at once eliminated,
since there is no place to dig pits there. The only apparent advantage
of the pit type is that the fire is protected from the wind. This would
be a great advantage on the pampas but would mean little or nothing
at most Navarino camps. The presence of these house pits on the
pampas about the lagoons and shore of northern Tierra del Fuego
suggests that region as the possible place of origin or development.
_~~~~~~~~~~~~~ _~~~~~4
rose above the level of the tides and before humus had time to form
on it. This clean beach gravel was found beneath two middens in
protected harbors at an elevation of more than fifteen feet above the
mark of the present highest tides. This is about two feet higher than
average high water. Embedded in this waterworn, water-deposited
gravel, at various heights above high-water mark at several sites,
were found waterworn, cracked bones and stone flakes similar to
unworn bone fragments and stone flakes in the overlying middens.
These presumably were dropped on the gravel when it was open beach,
were smoothed by wave action, and subsequently were covered by
the advancing middens, the highest of them lying 13 feet 9 inches
above maximum high water and about 15 feet above the level at which
they would be subjected to wave action today. The problem is, of
course, to interpret this in terms of years. For help we turn to his-
torical records.
In I624 the explorer Le Hermite met Indians in Nassau Bay, on the
south side of Navarino Island.7 He reported that they used arrows
tipped with stone.
We know from our excavations that the first people with the shell-
7 Voyage of Jaques Le Hermite, in A General History & Collection of Voyages and Travels, by
Robert Kerr, Vol. Io, Edinburgh, 1824, p. 199.
knife culture on Navarino did not use stone arrow points. In the
large middens the refuse of the shell-knife people covers the old beach
shingle to within 2 2 feet of extreme high-water mark. As the water
level dropped and new beach was exposed, the shell heap was built
gradually seaward. In this manner it expanded, by the addition of
new shells not only to the surface of the preexisting heap but also
to the beach itself
along its shore
margin. In a cross-
section at right
angles to the shore-
line, those shells in 4 V0
direct contact with
the beach become
progressively older
away from the
shore, and progres-
sively younger to-
ward the top of any
vertical section. It
is only in that por-
tion of the large FIG. I2-Vertical section of deposit on floor of rock shelter in Yen-
dagaia Bay. Thickness g feet. Whitish streaks of wood ashes show-
middens lying be- ing where the fires have been made one above the other through the
tween maximum years. Specimens of the types shown in Figure 20 come from the upper
portion, those shown in Figure 2I from the lower.
high water and 212
feet above it that we find stone arrowpoints in contact with the un-
derlying beach; shoreward from this level they occur progressively
higher within the midden. This change of 212 feet in land-sea level
apparently occurred, then, in not less than 300 years. At this rate,
providing it has been constant, we have i8oo years as the time elapsed
since the first arrivals.
For evidence on this question it was necessary to examine not
only the middens but the beach terraces conspicuous everywhere
along the shore. If the rise had been markedly erratic, it should be
visible in the gravel underlying the middens. If the upward motion
had ceased for a time, the midden would have encroached on the beach,
and in consequence the gravel at that point should contain a larger
percentage of broken shells than the gravel covered when the rise was
keeping just ahead of the growth. Any pause should also be evident
in the other beach terraces. At the time of pause several terraces
would tend to form at the same level at places where the situation
was suitable for terrace formation. Neither of these possibilities was
observed; instead we found terraces at irregular levels up to about
twenty feet above the present beaches.
If such a movement has been constant up to the present, is it
still going on? The undercutting of shell mounds on the north side
of Beagle Channel has been advanced as evidence of a recent sub-
sidence. Record was made of the condition of I83 sites on the north
shore of Navarino with this in mind. More than go per cent were not
touched by the highest tides, and most of these would be definitely
undercut if the water rose only a few inches above its present mark.
Of the remainder, in all cases there was some specific cause for the
cutting. Rising channel bottoms sometimes alter tidal currents, with
consequent cutting away of the old shore line and redeposition of
the material elsewhere, or the shifting course of a small stream may
be responsible. In most cases it is due to the grazing of sheep and cattle
on the mound, which causes the surface material to slip below tide
level.
There are also beaches in various stages of formation along the
present shore on which the upland flora is just taking root; invasion
of salt water owing to subsidence of a few inches would kill it. We
conclude, then, that the rise has been going on until very recently
and probably is in progress at the present time.
below the level of the old beach terrace, is an outcrop of a soft tufa
through which a small canyon about 6oo feet long, ioo feet wide, and 40
feet deep has been cut by drainage from the hills to the east. As the
gravel formation out from the beach terrace fills the upper part of the
canyon up to the level of the surrounding country, the canyon must
have been cut before the lake rose to its maximum height. This means
that while the lake was at its greatest height the rock shelters now
found along the canyon walls were not available; that any occupation
of them was subsequent to the subsidence of the lake.
The best shelter is in a small arm of the main canyon not subject,
at the present time, to surface drainage from the hills. The bottom
is fairly level and has been covered with wind-blown earth carried
from the land lying between the canyon and the shore of the lake.
As the floor continued to be built up, a time naturally came when the
headroom became so scant that the shelter was no longer desirable.
Accordingly, in the upper part of the soil the number of artifacts
gradually becomes smaller. There were no traces of the historical
Tehuelches; i.e. horse bones and the associated items. Instead, we
found the stemmed arrow points and knives mentioned above as
found on wind-eroded camps. With them we found numerous bolas-
proof that bolas antedated the arrival of the Spanish horse at the
Strait by many years. From about 7500 cubic feet of earth removed
from this shelter 4400 artifacts were recovered, among which are more
than 580 broken and unfinished bolas but only 48 arrow and knife
points. It is difficult to understand why some of the wind-eroded
camps had many arrow points but no bolas when they are contem-
poraneous in this proportion here. The stemmed points were found
down through eight to nine feet of uniform wind-blown soil resting
on sand derived from the tufa. On and in this sand we found another
type of point-a stemless, triangular form. Beneath the sand we
found waterworn stones and water-laid sand, and at this level we found
evidence of the earliest campfire. At the level of the last of the mate-
rial of the first occupants were two group burials, containing eight
individuals, men and women. The graves were lined with red clay,
with which the bodies had also been daubed.
We may read the history thus: The Indians availed themselves
of the canyon shortly after the lake receded. The first occupants
used a stemless spear or arrow point and small bolas (Fig. 25). Sub-
sequently wind-blown soil accumulated in the shelter; during this
period stemmed arrow points and knives were in use, together with
various types of bolas (Fig. 24). Shortly before the beginning of the
historical period a new type of arrow point, identical with those used
by the Ona Indians of Tierra del Fuego, came into use (Fig. 23). As
this was found with the earlier stemmed form, we must conclude that
the two types are contemporaneous. We occasionally found these
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FIG. 18
FIG. i6-Mrs. Bird indicating the entrance to Cerro Sota Cave in the lava at the crest of the hill.
FIG. I7-Wind-eroded floor of Cafladon Condor showing exposed whitish layer containing marine
fauna. (Man in center of picture marks location of camp refuse extending beneath marine layer.)
FIG. i8-Eroded bank at west side of Cafiadon Condor. Whitish marine layer tapering to nothing
marks edge of tidal lagoon.
267
FIG. ig-Valley of the Rio Chico. Fell's Cave in center of the section on the right. Cerro Sota
visible to right above the cave.
MIl|II.
|_N
e ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
FIG. 19 (cont.)-A shelter similar to Fell's Cave is seen in the left-hand section of this part of the
panorama. It was not excavated.
or other evidence that the present-day Tehuelches had used this place.
The finely made Ona-type points were in the upper six inches. From
i8 to 36 inches, 319 stemless points were found. From 36 to 6o inches,
although various types of scrapers were found, there were no stone
points but a few points of bone instead (Fig. 26). In the lowest six
inches, over the surface of the underlying volcanic ash, were scattered
broken and burnt bones of the native American horse and the ground
sloth and good occupational refuse, yielding stone and bone tools.
In all, 3800 artifacts were recovered. On the surface of the volcanic
ash, at the base of the wall near the rear of the cave, were three cre-
mation burials, the first human remains accompanied by artifacts in
clear association with extinct fauna found in the New World. Em-
bedded in the top part of the volcanic ash was the stem of a type of
point not seen previously. A few sloth bones were found mixed with
the ash and completely burned. Beneath the ash were parts of at
least seven sloth skeletons, with indications that the animals had
sheltered and died in the cave. There was nothing to show that the
Indians had killed them; but a few stone flakes and some charcoal
beneath the volcanic ash down to the original stone floor showed that
the Indians had been here. The reason that the cave was not occupied
at this early date may be that before the eruption the floor was sloping.
Fell's Cave, about 20 miles to the west, told a similar story (Fig. h9).
This cave, or, more correctly, shelter, is in the valley of the Rio Chico
where the river at one time undercut the canyon wall. The cliff on
the southeast side of the canyon shows an outcrop of lava resting on
a conglomerate that, in turn, is underlain by a coarse stratified sand-
stone. At some time in the past the water wore away this sandstone,
forming a cave about 28 feet deep and 36 feet wide with a ceiling now
about i i feet above the original floor. This height must have been
less at one time, however, since the water did not wear away all the
sandstone but left more than a foot of it adhering to the under side
of the conglomerate. The recession of the water left a clean, smooth
floor of hard clay capping water-deposited sand.
45 feet deep but too narrow to have been of much use, with a floor
rising rearward (Fig. i6). There was a five-foot layer of fine, dry dirt
at the inner end. In the lower three feet were many fragments of
native horse and a few pieces of sloth bones but no artifacts or traces
of fire, except for one cremation group burial of three adults, two chil-
dren, and two babies. They had been packed in grass in a small hol-
low at the rear of the cave and had been burned while still fresh.
Above the grave were more fragmentary horse bones, which place
these human remains possibly in the first period, though there were
no associated artifacts.
Later, in the third and fourth periods, the place was inhabited
occasionally, but the record recovered is very incomplete.
CORRELATION OF SITES
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VOLCANIC
ERUPTION
All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions
FIG. 29
274 THE GEOGRAPHICAL REVIEW
ESTIMATES OF AGE