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Nalanda (Mahavihara)

When was it built: 5th century CE

Who built it: Originally by Emperor Kumaragupta I of Gupta Dynasty; Expansion works
continued during and after Gupta period

Where is it located: Nalanda district, Bihar, India

Why was it built: As Mahavihara (large Buddhist monastery)

Best Time to Visit: October to March

Visit Timing: Daily, 9 am to 5 pm

How to Reach: Nearest railhead is Rajgir (11 km) and airport is Patna (89 km)

Image Credit:
Nalanda, a large Buddhist monastery, now in ruins, was one of the most publicly
acknowledged Mahaviharas of ancient India located in ancient Magadha kingdom (modern
Bihar). It remained a learning centre from 7th century BCE through c. 1200 CE and is many
a time categorised as one of the early universities of India along with other institutions like
‘Vikramashila’ and ‘Taxila’. The patronage of the Gupta Empire saw this Mahavihara prosper
during 5th and 6th century as also during the reign of emperor Harsha of Kannauj. However
tantric developments of Buddhism during the Pala rule saw an eventual decline of Nalanda.
Students and scholars from places like China, Central Asia, Korea and Tibet studied in this
great vihara that taught Mahayana, Hinayana, Sanskrit grammar, Vedas and Samkhya
among others. Imminent pilgrim monks like Hiuen Tsang and I-tsing from East Asia visited
this place in the 7th century. Recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, Nalanda
not only boasts of being one of the most revered Buddhist tourism sites in India but also
continues to draw attention from scholars, historians and archaeologists.

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History

Nalanda was originally a thriving village close to Magadha’s capital Rajagriha (presently
Rajgir) located beside a prime trade route. According to sources, Gautam Buddha gave
away lectures in a close-by mango grove called Pavarika and Jain thirthankara, Mahavira
also stayed at Nalanda for about fourteen rainy seasons thus validating the existence of the
place to as early as the 5th–6th century BCE. The Tibetian Lama Taranatha of the 17th
century mentioned that a huge temple was constructed at the site of chaitya of Shatiputra
at Nalanda by the great Indian emperor of the Maurya Dynasty, Ashoka who later embraced
Buddhism. Taranatha also stated that Nagarjuna, a 3rd-century CE luminary and Mahayana
philosopher remained chief of the institution while his contemporary, another luminary
Suvishnu constructed around 108 temples in the area. Various theories exist regarding the
naming of the place. While Hiuen Tsang asserted that it was derived from ‘Na alam d?’
meaning charity without intermission or no end in gifts, I-tsing believed it came from ‘N?ga
Nanda’ where naga refers to a snake in the local tanks whose name was Nanda. The
travelogues of these two Chinese monks gave most of the information that could be
gathered about Nalanda prior to the 8th century.

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During Gupta Period

The accounted history of Nalanda dates back to the Gupta Empire with a seal confirming
the founder of the place as the 5th-century CE Gupta monarch Shakraditya (?akr?ditya) who
was identified as emperor Kumaragupta I (r. c. 415 – c. 455 CE). A coin of the monarch was
found at the site. Expansions and development including building new temples and
monasteries took place during the reign of his successors namely Buddhagupta, Baladitya,
Tathagatagupta and Vajra. Among them the 12th Gupta emperor Narasimhagupta Baladitya
was raised under the guidance of Vasubandhu, a very influential Buddhist monk, scholar
and Mahayanist philosopher from Gandhara. Clay sealing of Baladitya was found in
Nalanda. A 91 m high vihara encompassing a Buddha statue and a sangharama was built
by him.

Image
Credit:http://www.columbia.edu/itc/mealac/pritchett/00routesdata/0100_0199/nalanda/nal
anda2.jpg

Post Gupta Period

Post the Gupta period Nalanda continued to develop under the auspices of several kings,
particularly during the 7th century under the reign of emperor Harsha of Kannauj. While one
of the monarchs constructed a high wall surrounding the structures of the site, another
emperor Purnavarman built a six stage pavilion for installing a 24 m high copper idol of Lord
Buddha. Emperor Harsha who held the Buddhist monks in high regards and deemed himself
as their servant was a converted Buddhist whose royal congregation included around
thousand monks from Nalanda. A brass monastery was constructed by him inside Nalanda.
Revenues of hundred villages as also daily supply of rice, milk and butter were furnished to
the monks of the institution under the instruction of the emperor.

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During Pala Period

The Pala Empire that originated from the Bengal region remained an imperial power on the
Indian subcontinent during the Late Classical period from 8th to 12th century. The Palas
were followers of Mahayana and Tantric schools of Buddhism. Although they revered
Nalanda as a prized cultural legacy and continued to patronize it, the increasing Tantra-
influenced version of Mahayana practiced in Vajrayana had an effect on Nalanda with tantric
doctrines and magic rites taking precedence. They set up four more Mahaviharas at
Odantapura, Jagaddala, Vikramashila and Somapura all of which typified the Nalanda
Mahavihara. Establishment of such Mahaviharas most likely saw several learned monks
joining them thus leaving Nalanda. Among the Pala emperors the third and most powerful
emperor, Devapala, who ruled in the 9th century and constructed the Mahavihara at
Somapura seemed to be the most noted patron of his time. Two important inscriptions and
several metallic figures having his reference were unearthed from the ruins of Nalanda.
While one of the inscriptions etched on a copper plate manifests endowment bestowed by
Balaputra, the maharaja of Srivijaya, the other inscription, the Ghosrawan inscription
indicated that Devapala patronised Vedic scholar Viradeva who eventually served as head
of the Mahavihara.

Image Credit:
Hiuen Tsang in Nalanda

Hiuen Tsang also called Xuanzang was a Chinese Buddhist monk, scholar, translator and
traveler who elucidated the communication between India and China during the early Tang
dynasty of China. He visited the Nalanda Mahavihara twice in 637 and 642 CE while
travelling around India from 630 to 643 CE. In Nalanda he came under the tutelage of
Shilabhadra, a Buddhist monk, philosopher and expert on Yog?c?ra teachings who
remained an abbot of the monastery. Xuanzang who was lovingly called Mokshadeva in
Nalanda took up courses on Buddhist studies, Sanskrit, logic and grammar and at a later
stage delivered lectures there. A guest of Emperor Harsha, he catalogued the generosity
and bountifulness of the emperor. He carried 657 Buddhist texts, mostly Mahayanist as also
150 relics in 520 cases with him while on his return to China, being transported on 20 horses.
74 of such texts were translated by him. Around 11 travellers from China and Korea visited
Nalanda over the next three decades after his return to China.
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I-tsing in Nalanda

Another Chinese Buddhist monk of Tang dynasty, Yijing, also known as I-tsing visited India
in 673 CE after studying Sanskrit in Srivijaya. In his 14 years tenure in India he spent 10
years in Nalanda and furthered his studies in Buddhism. He took 400 Sanskrit texts with him
on his return to China in 695 CE and eventually translated them in Chinese language.
Accounts given by him predominantly focus on the practice of the religion in India and a
thorough elucidation of the traditions, rules, customs and norms followed by monks of
Nalanda. He mentioned about the daily course of the monks of Nalanda that included an
array of rites meant for all starting from the bathing hour to ablution of Lord Buddha’s image
to performing chaityavandana in the evening that included chanting of shlokas and particular
set of hymns. All the works were signalled by beating a gong. He mentioned that as huge
daily assembly gatherings posed difficulty due to large number of inmates at the monastery,
a ritual was later adopted which saw a priest along with amateur servants and children
holding flowers and incense visiting the halls of the monastery while chanting the service.
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About The Mahavihara

Nalanda, an architectural chef d'oeuvre that was spread over a large area during the ancient
period, is today in dilapidated condition with its excavated ruins measuring an area of around
12 hectares. Comprising of 10 temples, 8 individual compounds, classrooms, meditation
halls, parks and lakes this residential school with dormitories for students boasted of having
more than 2,000 teachers and 10,000 students during its prime. Scholars and students from
far off places including China, Japan, Turkey, Persia, Korea, Tibet and Indonesia attended
the Mahavihara. Subjects taught here included Mahayana, Hinayana, Samkhya,
Atharvaveda, Shabdavidya, Chikitsavidya and Vedas among others. According to
conventional Tibetian sources, Nalanda housed a big library called ‘Dharmaganja’ (Piety
Mart) that encompassed three multi-storied edifices called ‘Ratnaranjaka’ (Jewel-adorned),
‘Ratnodadhi’ (Sea of Jewels) and ‘Ratnasagaral (Ocean of Jewels). Collections of the library
included religious manuscripts and texts on medicine, astronomy, logic, astrology and
literature among others. According to I-tsing, the monks would assemble to discuss
administrative and other decisive matters and finalised decisions only after taking consent
of all at the assembly as also the resident monks.
Image Credit: http://www.7wonders.org/images/asia/india/nalanda-university/nalanda-
university.jpg

Decline and End

With the rise of Tantric practices in Buddhism during the Pala rule that included secret magic
and rituals following the gradual decline of the Pala dynasty post 11th century complimented
with a surge of Hindu philosophies across the subcontinent saw an eventual decline of
Buddhism in India leading to decline of Nalanda. Although still surviving, Nalanda
presumably faced a big blow in c. 1200 CE when it was plundered and destroyed by an army
headed by Bakhtiyar Khilji, a Turkish military general of the Muslim Mamluk Dynasty.
According to some sources, it tried to function temporarily but was gradually deserted and
only came to notice when the ‘Archaeological Survey of India’ (ASI) surveyed the site and
conducted initial excavation works in the 19th century. Excavation works of ASI in 1915
brought to light existence of 6 brick temples and 11 monasteries. Several antiques including
inscriptions, coins, sculptures and seals were excavated from the site which now finds place
in the Nalanda Archaeological Museum. The museum remains open from 10 am to 5 pm on
all days except Friday. Entry fee per person is Rs. 5/-.

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