VOL. 6 · NO.

1, July 2018 Journal of Globerovers Productions · GR

GlobeRovers
Feature Article

10 Indonesia: Emerald of the Equator

Eloquently known as Zamrud Khatulistiwa (“Emerald of the Equator”), Indonesia is vast, spanning over 1.9 million
square kilometres - the world’s 14th largest country in terms of land area. Come along as we explore this archi-
pelago of over 17,500 islands. Known for its active volcanoes, deserted beaches, colourful tribes, remote villages,
ancient ruins, and wildlife in dense jungles, we start in the historic town of Yogyakarta with its 9th-century temples;
we then visit Borobudur Temple, the Dieng Plateau, and the islands of Bali, Lombok, the Gilis, and Flores.

ARTICLES + PHOTOS REGULAR SECTIONS

70 Myanmar’s Myeik Archipelago SPECIAL FEATURES
Located in the Andaman Sea off the
coast of southern Myanmar, the Myeik
64 Sensible Travel Gear
(or Mergui) Archipelago remains largely 118 Tasty Traveller’s Treats
undiscovered by foreign travellers. Join
us as we stay at Wa Ale Island Resort, a 188 Postcards to Mom
privately owned eco-tourism project on
the island of Wa Ale in the Lampi Ma-
rine National Park. This is paradise!
CONTRIBUTIONS
66 Ozzie Loos
102 South Africa’s Cape Peninsula 82 Diving Myanmar’s Myeik Archipelago
Table Mountain iconically renders Cape
Town as one of the most picturesque 92 Myanmar’s Tattooed-Face Women
cities in the world. We start our journey
beneath the mountain, then travel south 132 Dempster Highway - Arctic Canada
to Cape Point, visiting fishing villages
and beaches along the way. We then visit 174 The Dolomites. Proudly Italian
the beaches at Blouberg, Melkbos, and 182 Wines of the Dolomites
Yzerfontein along the Cape West Coast.
184 Save the Rhino
134 Laos, Land of a Million Elephants 192 Travellers in the Spotlight
While Laos may no longer have a million
elephants roaming its jungles, this diverse 196 Book Reviews
country, rich in scenery and activities,
caters to the needs of most adventurers,
culture seekers, Buddhist aficionados, and TOP LISTS
even the foodies! We explore mountain-
ous areas in the north to the Mekong 44 10 Travel Experiences in Indonesia
River islands in the far south. 156 9 Must-Do’s in Laos
PHOTO ESSAYS IN THE NEXT ISSUE
48 Darwin’s Galapagos Islands, Ecuador 198 Europe’s Lilliputian Countries
We explore Europe’s smallest countries:
120 Hill Tribes of Sapa, Vietnam The Vatican, Monaco, San Marino, Liech-
tenstein, Malta, Andorra, Luxembourg,
160 Belarus: Castles, Churches, Singing Ladies Cyprus, Kosovo, and Montenegro.
Candi Bukit Ijo, Desa Sambirejo,
Prambanan, Java, Indonesia.

1
 07/01-5

2 Globerovers · July 2018


THE FRONT COVER:
Sunrise over the 9th-century ruins of
Borobudur temple, Java Island, Indonesia.
Globerovers Magazine
is currently a biannual magazine, available
in digital and printed formats.
We focus on bringing exciting destinations
and inspiring photography from around
the globe to the intrepid traveller.
Published in Hong Kong
Printed in U.S.A. and Europe
WHO WE ARE:
Editor-in-Chief - Peter Steyn
Editorial Director - Tsui Chi Ho
Graphic Designer - Peter Steyn
Photographer & Writer - Peter Steyn
Chief Proofreader - Janet-Lynn Vorster
Advertising - Lizzy Chitlom
Sales - Leon Ringwell
FOLLOW US:
www.globerovers-magazine.com
www.globerovers.com
facebook.com/GloberoversMag
pinterest.com/globerovers
twitter.com/globerovers
instagram.com/globerovers
CONTACT US:
editor@globerovers.com
Editor‛s Message
“Not all those who wander are lost”. J.R.R. Tolkien
John Tolkien (3 Jan 1892 – 2 Sep 1973), an English writer, poet, philologist,
university professor, and author of ‘The Hobbit’, and ‘Lord of the Rings’.
Dear Readers,
In this 11th issue of Globerovers Magazine, we are pleased to bring you a variety of
exciting destinations and other reading enjoyment. 
The feature destination is Indonesia, with its thousands of islands and the world’s
second longest coastline (after Canada). Join us as we explore Central Java, and the
islands of Bali, Lombok, East Nusa Tenggara, and many more idyllic locations.
We also have inspiring stories about the unspoiled and unexplored Myeik Ar-
chipelago of southern Myanmar. Turquoise crystal clean waters and silky white
beaches complete with a brand new resort fit for royalty! Staying in Asia, we
explore the mountains and hill tribes of northern Laos, the thousands of islands in
the Mekong River to the far south, and a few places in between. We also have our
regular stories from South Africa. This time we travel from Cape Town around the
Cape Peninsula and then north along the beaches of the Cape West Coast.
We have Photo Essays of Ecuador’s Galapagos Islands, the far north of Vietnam,
Belarus - the former Soviet Republic, and Myanmar’s tattooed-face Chin women.
A special thank you to our sponsors and also to our contributors who we introduce
on page 5.
Lets connect on social media and visit
www.globerovers-magazine.com. 
For easy access, scan the QR codes
on page 7.
Feedback: editor@globerovers.com.
I travel so you can see the world!
Peter Steyn PhD
Editor-in-Chief and Publisher
Copyright © 2013-2018. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any part of this magazine
is strictly prohibited without the prior written approval of the publisher. The pub-
lisher does not take responsibility for any potential inaccurate information herein.
THE FRONT COVER
The 9th-century ruins of Borobudur temple, located on Indonesia’s Java Is-
land, are best visited before sunrise. The hues of pink and blue are surreal.
3
4 Globerovers · July 2018
 CONTRIBUTORS
In this issue
Thanks to our Contributors
All words and photos by Peter Steyn, except where otherwise indicated. A very special thank you to our
awesome contributors in this issue. Without you, Globerovers Magazine just wouldn’t be the same!

Janet-Lynn Vorster, Cape Town, South Africa (page 102)

Janet is a numerologist by profession, and journalist, editor and photographer by hobby. She is
the proud mother of three grown children and granny to three grandchildren. Janet is the South-
ern African editor as well as Chief Proofreader for Globerovers Magazine.

Marion Halliday, Adelaide, South Australia (page 66)

Marion is “Red Nomad OZ”, author, blogger and Aussie traveller who loves discovering nature-
based attractions and activities – and scenic loos – all over Australia. Her Aussie travel blog and
published book “Aussie Loos with Views” provide inspiration for other Aussie explorers.

Juan Gallardo, Yangon, Myanmar (Page 82)

Juan is a born adventurer from the Spanish city of Seville and has lived in the UK, the US and
Europe. Juan first visited Myanmar in 2012 and has been living in Yangon since 2014. He is
passionate about photography and Burmese cuisine.

Gilad Fiskus, Tel Aviv, Israel (Page 92)

Gilad was born in Montréal, Canada, in 1965 and has been living in Israel since his early child-
hood. In 1989 he graduated with honours from the Dentistry School at the Hebrew University of
Jerusalem. He currently practices dental aesthetics from his office near Tel Aviv.

Yrene Dee, Lumby, BC, Canada (Page 132)

Yrene is the founder of BackcountryCanadaTravel.com. She was born in Switzerland, lived and
worked on different continents and travelled the world before she settled in Canada. She is an
entrepreneur, wilderness nut, and animal lover who prefers off-the-beaten-track places.

Daniele Sommavilla, Belluno, Italy (page 174)

Daniele was born and raised in Belluno, the heart of the Dolomites, and is an avid skier and
hiker. He works at Certilogo in Milano, an innovative consumer technology platform enabling
passionate skiers globally to validate the authenticity of their ski gear before purchasing.

Elisabetta Tosi, Valpolicella, Italy (page 182)

Elisabetta is an experienced freelance wine journalist, wine blogger, and new media consultant.
From Valpolicella (Veneto region) where she lives, she writes about Italian wines and wineries for
international online and offline magazines, and she is always ready for new travel adventures.

Katherine Johnston, London, England (page 184)

Katherine is Save the Rhino International’s Communications Manager. She read Modern His-
tory and English at Oxford, before completing an MA at London’s School of Oriental and African
Studies. She is a consultant to the Lynx UK Trust and Trustee of ResonanceFM.

Additional Contributors:
A special thanks to our interviewees in the “Travellers in the Spotlight” section, Jessica and Laurence Norah, Craig
Thompson, and Yrene Dee. Thanks also to our authors Michela Fantinel and Chris Backe for their book interviews.

5
 The Globerovers‛ World
Globerovers Magazine was created by Peter Steyn, an avid explorer who is constantly in search of the
edge of the world. He will always hike the extra mile or ten to get as far off the beaten track as he can.
It is his mission to discover and present the most exciting destinations for intrepid travellers. He has
visited 122 countries (including territories: Greenland, Hong Kong, Macau) and is poised to explore
Africa & the Pacific Islands in the coming months. Peter’s home is wherever he lays down his cameras.

Afghanistan El Salvador Macau Serbia

Albania Estonia Macedonia Singapore
Andorra Finland Malaysia Slovakia
Argentina France Maldives Slovenia
Armenia Georgia Malta South Africa
Australia Germany Mauritius South Korea
Austria Greece Mexico Spain
Azerbaijan Greenland Moldova Sri Lanka
Bahrain Guatemala Monaco Swaziland
Bangladesh Honduras Montenegro Sweden
Belarus Hong Kong Morocco Switzerland
Belgium Hungary Myanmar / Burma Syria
Belize Iceland Namibia Taiwan
Bolivia India Nepal Tajikistan
Bosnia-Herzegovina Indonesia Netherlands Thailand
Brazil Iran New Zealand Timor Leste (East Timor)
Brunei Ireland Nicaragua Turkey
Bulgaria Israel North Korea Ukraine
Cambodia Italy Norway United Arab Emirates
Canada Japan Oman United Kingdom
Chile Jordan Pakistan United States
China Kazakhstan Panama Uruguay
Colombia Kosovo Papua New Guinea Uzbekistan
Costa Rica Kyrgyzstan Paraguay Vanuatu
Croatia Laos Peru Vatican
Cuba Latvia Philippines Vietnam
Cyprus Lebanon Poland Yemen
Czech Rep. Lesotho Portugal Zambia
Denmark Liechtenstein Romania Zimbabwe
Ecuador Lithuania Russia
Egypt Luxembourg San Marino 122 and counting...

6 Globerovers · July 2018

 o ll o w
F ..
u s..

Don’t hesitate to follow us to some incredible

destinations. You will never be sorry you did!
Use a QR reader
on your smart phone

facebook.com/GloberoversMag

pinterest.com/globerovers

twitter.com/globerovers

Scan this code for a

FREE download of Globerovers app
globerovers-magazine.com Apple Store Google Play

instagram.com/globerovers

Or search for “Globerovers” in your app store

7
 Use a QR reader on your
phone to read these codes

CANADA
Page 132

ITALY
Page 174

GALAPAGOS
Page 48

SOUTH AFRICA
Page 102

DESTINATIONS
IN THIS ISSUE
8 Globerovers · July 2018
 BELARUS
Page 160

VIETNAM
Page 120

MYANMAR
Page 70

LAOS
Page 134

AUSTRALIA
Page 66
INDONESIA
Page 10

9
 Komodo Island
Jakarta

Central Java
Bali and
Lombok Islands

10 Globerovers · July 2018

 Indonesia
T hinking about Indonesia
evokes visions of active
volcanoes, deserted
beaches, colourful tribes
and their festivals,
remote villages, ancient
ruins, and wildlife in dense jungles fac-
ing the rapid destruction of their habitat.
Sounds like another country qualified to
be promoted under the slogan of “Many
Countries in One”. While this slogan may
be well founded, this “one country” is surely
not surveyed in one single visit, unless you
are spending months on end.
Indonesia is vast, and that’s an under-
statement. Spanning over 1.9 million square
kilometres, it is the world’s 14th largest
country in terms of land area. Also referred
to as the “Indonesian Archipelago”, it con-
sists of over 17,500 officially listed islands, of
which 16,056 island names have now been
Feature Article
Emerald of the Equator
Planning a travel adventure through the Indonesian Archipelago
can be overwhelming! Where to start and where to end. What to do and
what not. Don’t fret. Get in on the one side and out on the other side. In
between, grab as many adventures as possible! No regrets!
verified by a United Nations working group
referred to as the UN Group of Experts on
Geographical Names (UNGEGN). That sure
is a lot of named islands to visit, let alone the
tunities to discover the undiscovered are
almost uncountable!
For travellers who have never set foot in
this vast and diverse country with a popula-
yet unnamed islands! tion of over 261 million people, it is tough
Among the larger islands are Sumatra, to recommend the ideal starting point. Let’s
Java, Kalimantan (part of Borneo Island), start with a few of the highlights, and in the
Sulawesi, and West Papua. Many of the future, we will talk about the islands hardly
smaller islands that are popular among ever visited by travellers. Welcome to the
travellers are Flores, Bali, Komodo, Lombok, Indonesian islands of Bali, Lombok, the
and a few others. When it comes to intrepid Gili Islands, the islands of Flores, Komodo,
travel across Indonesia, the sky is the limit. Padar, Rinca, and the central region of Java
The adventures are endless and the oppor- Island.
Feature l Indonesia | 11
IndonesiaYogyakarta
Indonesia:

all of Indonesia. Much of the complex is is Indonesia’s second largest Buddhist

YOGYAKARTA & SURROUNDINGS
“Jogja City” is the soul of Java Island
known for it culture, arts, and history.
well preserved, and much appreciated by complex (after Borobudur), which includes
the locals and foreign visitors alike. the temples of Lumbung, Bubrah and Asu.
Entrance fees for foreigners are steep These are mostly decorated with the Indo-
and the number of local visitors can be nesian version of the Ramayana illustra-
overwhelming, so best arrive at 6 am when tions. While overall not as impressive as
the gates open. Prambanan,
Sewu is a

T
he city of Yogyakarta, gateway
Located “Jogja” is a vibrant cultural city with many feast for the
on the border
to Central Java Island, has more
between the
historical landmarks. A great base from where to eyes if you
than enough attractions to keep are looking
the curious traveller busy for a few days. two provinces explore the vast temple complex east of town. for the small-
of Yogyakarta er details.
If you are into arts and crafts, start off
and Central Java, the other structures
with a look at how the artistic locals create Other temples in the wider area
within the Prambanan temple compound,
batik fabrics. Several markets and even include the Buddhist temple complex of
known as the Prambanan Archaeological Plaosan, which is near the Dengok River
some museums showcase their intrinsic
Park, include the 8th-century Sewu temple and surrounded by rice paddies along
works of art.
complex. In total, the park has around 500 with vegetation such as bananas and corn.
Yogyakarta is home to the garden cha- temples.
teau of Taman Sari Palace, with its elabo- The complex consists of about 250 smaller
Sewu temple, with its four pairs of temples and stupas, many of them merely
rate series of swimming pools built during
the Portuguese colonial times. Nearby giant Dwarapala gate guardian statues, in a state of jumbled pieces.
Keraton Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat Pal-
ace, simply known as Yogyakarta Palace, is Prambanan temple. Sewu temple.
the main seat of the Sultan of Yogyakarta
and his family and has a cultural centre
with a museum. Don’t miss the theatrical
performance with shadow puppets (Way-
ang Kulit) at the Sonobudoyo Museum
around the corner from the palace.
Yogyakarta is also the gateway to many
interesting places around Central Java Is-
land. If you are craving for beach life, head
south of the city to Pantai Parangtritis,
Pantai Parangkusumo, and Pantai Cemara
Sewu Bantul.
However, if spectacular ancient temple
ruins are of interest to you, drive about Prambanan temple.
15 km east of the city to the impressive
Prambanan temple, surrounded by several
slightly less significant temple complexes.
Prambanan temple, also referred to as
Candi Prambanan or Loro Jonggrang,
built in the 9th century, is dedicated to the
Hindu god of Shiva and consists of no less
than 240 temples in total.
The three tallest temples at Prambanan,
rising to a height of up to 47 m, are deco-
rated with reliefs illustrating the ancient
Indian epic poem of Ramayana and dedi-
cated to the three great Hindu divinities of
their god as the creator (Brahma), the pre-
server (Vishnu) and the destroyer (Shiva).
Three surrounding temples are dedicated
to the animals that serve them.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site,
Prambanan is the largest Hindu temple in

12 Globerovers · July 2018


Built in the mid-9th century during
Central Java’s Hindu-Buddhist Kingdom of
Medang, the Plaosan complex is split into
a smaller southern section, Plaosan Kidul,
and the larger northern section, Plaosan
Lor.
The mid to southern side of Plaosan
Lor is the most spectacular, in particular
the two main shrine buildings known as
the viharas. The southern vihara, which
has been better protected than its northern
counterpart, houses mostly male statues in
contrast to the mostly female statues in the
northern vihara. While there is no cred-
ible explanation for this, some conjecture
theories are that the northern vihara was a
nunnery, while the southern a monastery.
Other than the male and female statues,
both viharas are very similar in their
layout.
As you step into the dark interior, let
Plaosan Lor temple and smouldering Mount Merapi
in the background.
your eyes adjust to the low light and you
will find that apart from the small entrance
chamber, there are also three small rooms
serving as shrines.
In the entrance chamber is a pair of
monsters flanked by winged half-bird,
half-woman creatures, known in southeast
Asian Buddhist mythology as kinnaras.
In the central shrine chamber are two
Bodhisattva statues in the typical vara-
mudra Buddhist pose. While some of the
statues’ arms or hands have been broken
off over the years, some left hands are
holding a flower, which identifies them as
Avalokiteśvara, a bodhisattva (someone
practising the way of life of a Buddha) who
embodies the compassion of all Buddhas.
The small chambers on both sides
contain a similar layout of Bodhisattva
statues of which most sit on lotus thrones
on an elevated altar. The interior walls have
Central JavA
Yogyakarta
interesting and complex relief carvings of
deities, monks and dignitaries from the
Medang Kingdom.
You can easily spend hours trying to
figure out the inscriptions and composi-
tions. Be careful not to hit your head or
even your knees or hands against the wall
as they are constructed of ancient volcanic
rock with very sharp edges.
The Plaosan complex gets consider-
ably fewer visitors than Prambanan and is
a peaceful area to explore. Only the large
fearsome-looking statues of the Dwarapala
A few tips
Foreign visitors pay substantially
more than local Indonesians to visit
these temples. Recently, fees were hiked
significantly. As an example, the entrance
fee to Ratu Boko for foreigners is US$25
while locals pay IDR 40,000 (about
US$3). Similar fees apply to Prambanan
temple, though a combo ticket for Ratu
Boko and Prambanan costs US$40.
To rent a car and driver to take you to
these temples costs another $50 to $60
per day. All in all, an expensive day to
see crumbling ruins.
To save the cost of hiring a taxi, you
can easily take a local bus, such as bus
1A, from Yogyakarta’s main street, Jalan
Malioboro, to the end of the line, which is
near Prambanan temple.
To reach all the surrounding temples
will require a fair amount of walking
though. Plaosan lies about 3 km northeast
of Prambanan (Sewu temple is along
the way), while Ratu Boko is about 3 km
south of Prambanan. Sambisari temple
is a few kilometres west while Ijo temple
is on a hill a few kilometres southeast of
Ratu Boko.
You will thank yourself if you at least
hire a taxi once you are done at Pramba-
nan to take you to the rest of the temples.
In total, three to four hours to visit all the
temples should be enough.
Feature l Indonesia | 13
 We have something to Pesonna Tugu Yogyakarta
show you from the 8th Jl. Diponegoro No 99, Jetis, 55231
Yogyakarta, Indonesia

and 9th century... +62 274 2922939

AT THE HEART OF YOGYAKARTA

PESONNA TUGU YOGYAKARTA

Enjoy all the comfort of home when you settle into one of 106 Deluxe Rooms, 30 Deluxe Panorama Rooms, and 2 Pesonna Suites.
32” LCD Cable TV with local and international channels * Air conditioning * Safe deposit box * Minibar * Coffee-tea making facilities *
Work desk in all rooms * Telephone * Free WI-FI Internet access

14 Globerovers · July 2018

 Indonesia:
Indonesia: Yogyakarta
Yogyakarta

temple guardians can disturb your peace
and quiet. Armed with a snake, rope and a
sword, they protect the temple against all
evil spirits. But don’t fear, as I heard they
also protect inquisitive travellers.
Directly south of Prambanan temple is
Ratu Boko Temple Palace, fondly referred
to as the “sunset temple”, as most visitors
come here to see the setting sun throwing
its last fainting rays around the ancient
archway remains of the temple.
Located on a hillside overlooking the
Prambanan temples with Mount Merapi
as its backdrop, Ratu Boko was built in
the 9th century. Sadly, much of it has been
destroyed so only a few door archways are ated at each of the four corners to reach
still standing and the long flight of stairs to the small temple. The main temple is 7.5
reach them.
Halfway back to Yogyakarta is the
small sunken Sambisari temple, also
known as the “underground temple”. It
was discovered by chance when a farmer,
working in his paddy field, hit a solid ob-
ject and then dug deeper to unearth a large
solid carved stone.
After reporting it to the Yogyakarta
Archaeological Office, they concluded that
a large ancient temple was buried here
under the rocks sent by an erupting Mount
Merapi in 1906. After a long and tedious
excavation, reconstruction and restoration,
the temple was finally opened to the public
in 1987. You won’t see this temple from
afar as it remains about 6.5 metres below
the surrounding ground level.
Descend one of the stairways situ-
metres tall with several niches on all sides
decorated with statues of Shiva, Mahaguru,
Ganesha, and Durga.
Southeast of Prambanan temple and
Ratu Boko temple, located at the highest
altitude of all temples in this area (410
metres), is Ijo temple, located in Bukit Ijo,
in the Sambirejo regency.
Also built during the 9th century, this
complex consists of 17 buildings across
11 terraces, though only those at the top
terrace have been restored. The temples
are decorated with various forms of Hindu
carvings.
The views from Ijo temple are spec-
tacular and a popular spot for romantic
lovers to come and watch the sun setting
over Yogyakarta’s Adisutjipto airport, and
the city of Yogyakarta. The small temples
are not nearly as spectacular as this setting
high above the city. Don’t miss the views
of smouldering Mount Merapi volcano,
which lies less than 30 km to the north.
You could easily spend a few days
exploring this area!

Sambisari temple. Sambisari temple.

Bukit Ijo temple. Bukit Ijo temple.

Feature l Indonesia | 15
16 Globerovers · July 2018
Candi Plaosan Lor in Bugisan village, Central Java
The smouldering Mount Merapi rises high in the background of Candi Plaosan.
Surrounded by rice paddies along with vegetation such as bananas and corn,
this mid-9th century temple was constructed during Central Java’s Hindu-Bud-
dhist Kingdom of Medang.

The complex consists of about 250 smaller temples and stupas, many of them
merely in a state of jumbled pieces. Here you can spend hours trying to figure
out the inscriptions and compositions on the inside and outside. Be careful
not to hit your head or even your knees or hands against the walls as they are
constructed of ancient volcanic rock with very sharp edges.

Feature l Indonesia | 17
Central JavA
borobudur

Sunrise over Borobudur temple.

18 Globerovers · July 2018

 Indonesia: Borobudur

including 36,000 foreigners.

For most travellers to Indonesia’s
Central Java region, the ruins of Borobu-
BOROBUDUR TEMPLE dur temple are the highlight of their visit
One of the crown jewels in the world’s and the main reason for coming here. For
many, Borobudur is the only place they
collection of ancient temple ruins.
will visit before they fly out to faraway

A
places.
re you fantasizing about an an- Borobudur can get crowded, very
cient temple lost for centuries crowded, especially during the annual
in the dense tropical jungle, celebration of Buddha’s birthday, known
only to be rediscovered by you whilst rid- as Vesak Day. This day commemorates the
ing on an Asian elephant? That may be an birth, enlightenment (Buddhahood), and
exotic dream, but you should have been death (Parinirvāna) of the Buddha.
here in the early 1800’s, or at least before
On Vesak Day, Thursday May 11th
the late 1980’s.
2017, about 40,000 devotees flocked
At the time when the remains of the through the gates! Also on location were
9th century ruins of Borobudur temple about 3,500 merchants, and over 70 tour
were rediscovered in 1814, it looked very guides. Get the picture?
different from what we see today. Don’t despair! Visit Borobudur in
What we see today is even different January, February or March, reliably the
from just 10 wettest time
or 20 years Arrive at the temple before sunrise and witness as the of the year,
ago. It’s not and you will
so much the sun rises over the smouldering Merapi volcano casting find signifi-
ruins them- hues of pinks and blues over the ruins. Surreal. cantly fewer
selves that visitors. July
changed over and August
the past decade or two, but the increase in are usually the driest months, but the heat
the number of visitors. Gone are the days and high level of humidity can make a full-
when you could feel like a lonely jungle day visit unbearable.
explorer at Borobudur. So, while you can find times of the
As you approach the large car park, the year when fewer people visit, it is a surreal
modern entrance gates, and the line-ups of experience to be here during the Vesak
people, you may feel like turning around! Day festival when orange-robed monks
The Borobudur Temple Tourist Park Man- descend from all over Asia!
agement reported that Borobudur received Festivities start early in the morning
close to four million visitors in 2016. Back with a Buddhist mass prayer and medita-
in 1974, only about 260,000 tourists visited, tion at the nearby 9th century Mendut
temple. A very colourful
and long, slow-moving
parade then leaves the
temple, passing by the 9th
century temple of Pawon,
and 4 km later delivers
the holy water and eternal
flame to Borobudur
temple.
This is an incredible
parade you don’t want
to miss. The evening
performances in front of
Borobudur temple include
mass praying with monks
chanting and meditating,
as well as colourful tradi-
tional dances. Late in the

Feature l Indonesia | 19
Indonesia: Borobudur
evening you can join in the mass release
of flying paper lanterns, which is quite a
spectacle, albeit poorly organized. Photo-
graphing these performances and lanterns
on this beautiful full moon evening, with
the imposing Borobudur temple in the
backdrop, is an opportunity all photogra-
phers cherish. The festivities continue until
sunrise following hours of meditation,
praying, and a ritual of walking three times
around the temple.
Even during high season, it is possible
to have a peaceful time at the temple. The
day before your intended visit, hop over
to the Manohora Hotel, located near the
main entrance, to buy your “sunrise tour”
ticket at a hefty IDR 450,000 per foreigner.
At current rates, this amounts to about
US$33. However, there is no limitation
to the number of sunrise tickets the hotel
sells, so technically you can purchase the
ticket at the hotel ticketing counter at 4.20
am on the day you want to see sunrise over
Borobudur temple. Included in the fee is a
small flashlight which you will need when
entering the temple grounds at about 4:30
am until the sun rises at around 5:40 am,
depending on the time of the year you visit.
You will also be entitled to coffee and
a snack at the time of leaving, but not later
than 9 am when the hotel’s free coffee
stand closes!
A regular day ticket, which allows you
to enter at 6 am, costs $25, so the sunrise
ticket is only $8 more. Is it worth this
higher fee? Absolutely. At the time I visited
there were about 30 of us who entered at
4:30 am. Between the time we entered,
which was still quite dark, and the time of
sunrise at 05:42 on May 12th, the light is at
its best.
The best part of the sunrise was during
the early twilight period before the sun
actually peaked over the horizon. The
blue and pink hues against the stupas and
statues were surreal. By the time the gates
opened at 6 am for the general public,
the sun was already high and the magi-
cal hours were long gone. Along with the
bright sunlight came the hordes of school
children. I was amazed that the kids got up
so early in the morning to see the temple.
Borobudur temple is a Mahayana
Buddhist temple, and the world’s largest
Buddhist temple. The imposing central
dome, surrounded by 72 Buddha images
inside perforated stupas, rests on top of
nine stacked platforms that are decorated
20 Globerovers · July 2018
with 2,672 relief panels and the images of For the next few years, several expedi-
504 Buddhas.  tions arrived to survey the site and made
Following the decline of the Hindu detailed sketches of the temple remains.
kingdoms on Java Island as people increas- The first photograph was taken in 1872,
ingly converted to Islam, Borobudur’s most likely using a gelatin dry plate as
importance started to diminish during photographic paper film was only invented
the 10th or 11th century and was all but in 1885. As more people became aware
abandoned by the end of the 14th century. of the find, it attracted many “souvenir
It then fell into ruins and was subsequently hunters” and thieves who plundered the
covered by volcanic ash and swallowed ruins. One of the “inspectors” who visited
by the dense jungle. Some local supersti- in 1882 even recommended that all the
tions associated the ruins with unfathom- beautiful reliefs should be moved away to
able bad luck, misfortunes, and misery, museums. In 1896, King Chulalongkorn of
so people were forbidden to get near the Thailand, then known as Siam, visited the
ruins.  area and took eight cartloads of sculptures,
Forgotten and lost for centuries, it Buddha images and other items home
wasn’t until the early 19th century that with him, which are still on display in the
Java’s British ruler, Sir Thomas Stamford Java Art room of The National Museum in
Raffles, investigated rumours of a lost civi- Bangkok.
lization in Central Java. With help from the The first restoration of the temple
local Indonesians, he roughly pinpointed commenced during the early 20th century.
the location and then sent H.C. Cornelius, However, it was not until 1975 that the
a Dutch engineer, to find the temple. With Indonesian government, supported by
a load of natives alongside, he cut through UNESCO, undertook a complete restora-
the dense jungle for about two months tion. It took more than 600 workers, at a
to eventually reach the ruins. Sadly, they total cost of almost seven million US dol-
could see little of the ruined temple as it lars to complete the project over the next
was mostly covered in jungle and volcanic seven years. The work has been compared
ash. It took another 20 years before the to putting together the pieces of a massive
entire temple complex was unearthed.  one million-piece jigsaw puzzle. Borobu-
AMANJIWO RESORT
Borobudur Java, Indonesia
Amanjiwo, set within an amphitheatre of lush palms and rice fields,
is a sanctuary inspired by Java’s ancient past and vibrant present.
Ds. Majaksingi, Borobudur,
Magelang, Central Java, Indonesia
Tel: +62 293 788 333
Fax: +62 293 788 355
Email: amanjiwo@aman.com
www.aman.com/resorts/amanjiwo
dur was eventually listed as a UNESCO
World Heritage Site in 1991.
The newly rebuilt temple continues to
fight the daily onslaughts of the elements
of destruction. In 1985, nine stupas were
badly damaged by nine bombs, a bombing
carried out by an Islamic extremist group.
The Indonesian branch of ISIS recently
threatened to destroy Borobudur and other
statues in Indonesia. An ongoing threat
is the overload of visitors trampling all
over the brittle stone blocks, and don’t be
surprised to find graffiti on the stones. The
eruption of Mount Merapi in 2010 covered
the temple in a layer of acidic volcanic ash
up to 2.5 centimetres thick.
Spend at least three or four days in the
town of Borobudur. While there are ample
accommodation options, be sure to book
months in advance if you plan to visit dur-
ing any festive period, particularly during
the Vesak Day festival.
Central Java is a gem. If you are into
active volcanic action, including hiking up
the slopes, or love visiting ancient temple
ruins, Central Java is the place for you!

Feature l Indonesia | 21
22 Globerovers · July 2018
Borbobudur Temple, Central Java
Borobudur, the 9th-century Mahayana Buddhist temple (the world’s largest
Buddhist temple) shines in the early morning sun near Magelang, Central Java.

Feature l Indonesia | 23
Indonesia: Dieng Plateau
DIENG PLATEAU
Get close to raw nature with bubbling
mud pools and steaming vents.
F
ormed by the eruption of ancient pressive than the small temples themselves. from the natural phenomenon that causes
Mountain Prau, Dieng Plateau is
a complex of calderas situated at
about 2,000 metres above sea level, 130 km
northeast of Yogyakarta city.
The plateau derives its name ‘dieng’
from the two Sanskrit words of ‘di’ mean-
ing ‘place’ and ‘hyang’ meaning ‘gods’, so it between three to four hundred. Some of
is the ‘place of the gods’. Some folk-
lore has it that the name refers to The marshy plateau, located 2,090 metres above great views over the lakes.
‘strange beauty’ because the plateau
has many beautiful places to visit. sea level, is a perfect getaway from the heat and
This is true, and visitors to the area
can attest to this.
Attractions can be grouped into an-
cient temple ruins, volcanic activity, volca-
nic lakes and mountains, and rice terraces.
The drive from Yogyakarta to Dieng
Plateau is invigorating, especially as you
get closer to the steep roads up to the pla-
teau with the cool thin air.
On the eastern side of the plateau are
several temple ruins worth visiting. These
include Candi (temple) Bima, Candi
24 Globerovers · July 2018
Setyaki, Candi Arjuna, and further to the Java Island and into the Indian Ocean,
north is Candi Dwarawati. All four of over a distance of 181 km.
these temple ruins are of similar size and To the south of Tuk Bimo Lukar
stature. lies Telaga Warna, the “colourful lakes”.
While incomparable to the Prambanan The surrounding natural forests create a
or Borobudur temples, they are so unim- mystical atmosphere, which is sometimes
posing, standing in the middle of the rice accompanied by a white mist that envelops
fields, that the location is almost more im- the area. The name of the lake is derived
its waters to fluctuate from green to yellow
Dating back to between the 7th and
to blue-purple, and sometimes all colours
8th centuries, these Hindu temples are
of the rainbow at once! This phenomenon
among the oldest known standing stone
structures in Central Java. Originally, there occurs due to the high sulphur content,
used to be many more than the few we can so depending on the position of the sun it
reflects a variety of colours.
see today, with some estimates ranging
Drive up into the hills where you can
climb a wooden lookout tower for
For the hot sulphur lakes and
steam vents, head south to Kawah
bustle of Yogyakarta. Sikidang, or northwest to Kawah
Sileri, or even further northwest to
these temples, such as Arjuna, found by Kawah Candradimuka.
a British explorer in 1814, used to be in The latter is far from the other at-
the middle of a lake. By draining the lake, tractions and hard to access, so it is often
the temple was exposed and later recon- skipped by travellers. The tiny road leading
structed. up to Kawah Candradimuka is a difficult
Stop at Tuk Bimo Lukar fountain, lo- one and should only be attempted on foot,
cated in the same area as the temples. This or with a strong four-wheel drive. Even a
ancient bathing spring is considered holy motorbike is not advisable unless you have
as it is the origin of the Serayu River which a powerful scrambler. Once there, the re-
flows from northeast to southwest over wards are outstanding! A narrow flight of
stairs leads down past lush ferns and into
the crater where you will find two boiling
Steam rising out of Kawah Sileri. pits of water: the biggest pit often boiling
so vigorously that it ejects water high into
the air. The power of the steam vents and
bubbling boiling waters can be frighten-
Lonesome Candi Bima.
 Central JavA
any warning, Sileri ejected a column of
ing. What makes this a special place is that
steam, gasses, and mud, which fell up to
it’s mostly void of people. It’s you and raw Dieng Plateau
nature side by side. Sometimes you have 50 metres from the lake. Sadly, the rescue
to hold your breath when moving around helicopter crashed, killing the eight people
to prevent breathing in the sulphurous on board. A similar but larger eruption oc- Dieng Plateau, and a good way of saying
smoke. Do not slip and slide or you will curred here in September 2009 affecting an goodbye to this beautiful part of Central
become softly cooked soup. The bubbling area of 100 metres radius. As with any area Java, is to wake up early in the morning
waters here are fierce and they are right of volcanic activity, we are taking a massive and set out at 4 am into the dark to climb
next to the footpath among the lush grow- risk to get close to the source, as sudden Sikunir Hill near Sembungan village. From
ing ferns. A sudden and intensive outburst over-activity can occur without warning. the village, it is about a 30-minute steep
of boiling water can cause severe damage If you still desire more volcanic activity hike up the stairs to the top of Sikunir Hill.
to all life in the vicinity, including yourself.
with steam vents and strong sulphur emis- Here you will wait with a small but dedi-
So, walk carefully and pray for the best! sions, drive over to Kawah Sikidang. This cated crowd for sunrise over the smoke-
Kawah Sileri is a peaceful steaming volcanic crater has ample steaming vents puffing Gunung Sindoro volcano. On a
giant! A smoking crater filled with gently and frantically bubbling mud ponds. Hold clear morning, look east into the rising
boiling water and eerily drifting steam. your breath as you walk around, as the sun and you will see both active Merapi
However, be warned as this sleeping giant sulphurous smoke can be intense. Exercise and dormant Merbabu volcanoes. Even in
had a sudden steam-driven explosion caution as there are few guard rails to keep the wee hours of the morning, the many
(phreatic eruption) during July 2017 which you from slipping off the trails and into the friendly food vendors along the hike up Si-
injured several people, some of who were boiling waters. Don’t become soup! kunir Hill provide a welcoming aroma. Try
hospitalized with severe burns. Without Arguably the highlight of a trip to the wok-fried locally grown baby potatoes!

Dieng Plateau terraces. Kawah Sikidang. Kawah Candradimuka.

Sunrise over smoke-puffing Gunung Sindoro

volcano as viewed from Sikunir Hill.

Feature l Indonesia | 25
Indonesia: Bali Island

BALI ISLAND
The “Island of Gods” is developing fast
but remains charming and beautiful.
from the surrounding areas. For months rice farmers are known globally for their
the volcano continued spewing ash clouds, skills in producing high quality rice.
mudflows and fire. Locals remain on high Maybe it is because the Balinese believe
alert.   that Dewi Sri, the goddess of rice, should
Bali is known for its beaches. Those in be honoured to ensure good rice harvests.
The farmers even set up shrines in their
the south tend to have white sand while
rice paddies to honour Dewi Sri.
those in the north and west have black

C
sand, ample evidence of Bali’s historic Rice is an inherent part of Balinese
ommonly referred to as the formation and reshaping by volcanic erup- life. The Balinese even have three names
“Island of a Thousand Temples”, tions. The big swells make for great surf- for rice, depending on the form it takes:
“Island of Gods”, and “Bali ing, and being surrounded by coral reefs when growing it is referred to as padi,
Dwipa”, Bali island is the most-visited makes diving one of the main attractions when stored in a bag it is beras, and when
Indonesian island by foreign travellers. for many travellers flocking to Bali. cooked and ready to be eaten, it is called
While most travellers start and end their nasi.  
Indonesia journey in Bali, often fixated on One of the best areas to experience
The Crowded South
their luxurious tourist resorts and spas, these splendid rice terraces is at Tegalal-
Indonesia is much more than Bali. Many The largest concentration of tourist
lang, about 10 km north of Ubud town.
seasoned travellers to Indonesia will argue hotels is in the south along the beaches of
The Jatiluwih rice terraces in central Bali
that Bali is not Indonesia. Bali is uniquely Nusa Dua and Sanur on the eastern side,
are also beautiful. Belimbing’s rice ter-
Bali, and not typical of Indonesia.  and Kuta, Legian, and Seminyak on the
races to the southwest of Jatiluwih are also
west.
As a starter, while most Indonesian among the best! 
people are Muslim, the Balinese
people practice Balinese-Hinduism. Bali’s main tourist attraction areas are suffering riceThere is no best season to see the
terraces of Bali. It all depends
The Balinese-Hindus celebrate greatly under mass tourism, though its easy to get on whether you want to see some
about 60 religious holidays a year, so reflection in the water shimmer-
they commonly organise their lives away and escape the crowds and development. ing around the newly-planted rice
around the practice of their religion seedlings, or the flourishing green
with almost every aspect of their lives in- Over the past ten to twenty years, these
stage, or different shades of yellow before
volving prayer, worshipping, and offerings once rustic areas have been invaded by the rice is harvested. In fact, seeing and
to their gods.   luxury hotels, superstores, fancy restau-
photographing rice cultivation at any stage
rants, and upscale nightclubs. There are
Different ceremonies form an essential is fascinating, from planting to harvesting.
ample famous Western brand fast food res-
part of every Balinese person’s journey However, do make sure to visit Bali
taurants and luxury clothing stores. Areas
through life, a journey of colour, aromas, that once had a little scattering of travel- when the hillsides and valleys are at their
and celebration. Their culture is vividly lers, are now crowded with tourists from greenest, which is at the tail-end of the wet
expressed through their traditional arts, around the world. The roads are jammed season, from February to April. Rice in Bali
dances, festivals, and religious offering with cars which makes even crossing the
ceremonies.   road difficult.
The island of Bali lies just over three I find it rather sad how the southern
km east of Java island, separated by the part of Bali has been transformed from a
Bali Strait. The island has the shape of a “rustic village” to a crowded upscale tourist
sick chicken facing west towards Java, with destination. The product of mass tourism!
a land area of almost 5,800 km².
If you despise beautiful islands over-
Bali’s central mountains include crowded with tourists, head up north, past
several peaks rising over 3,000 metres in Seminyak to the beaches of Kerobokan
elevation, with Mount Agung, or locally and Canggu, and even further north to the
known as Gunung Agung, the highest at beautiful Tanah Lot Temple. Bali island
3,031 metres. Mount Agung is an active is large and there are many areas along
stratovolcano which, prior to the current the coast which still remain off the beaten
eruptions, last erupted in 1963, one of the track, imbued with tranquillity and a rustic
most devastating volcanic eruptions in the laid-back character.
modern seismographic history of Indone-
sia. The cone-shaped peak dominates the
surrounding area, even influencing the The Rice Terraces
rainfall patterns. Since September 2017 Once you leave the larger towns such
there has been an increase of seismic activ- as Denpasar and the touristy areas of Kuta,
ity around the volcano which has resulted Legian and Sanur, you will drive past end-
in the evacuation of thousands of residents less rice fields and terraces. The Balinese

26 Globerovers · July 2018

 Kacek dance at Pura Luhur Uluwatu. Crowded Seminyak beach in the south.
BALI ISLAND

Hindu prayer time on Kuta Beach.

Highlights of Bali

The island of Bali has enough attractions

and activities to keep anybody occupied
for weeks on end. Here are a few high-
lights for first-time visitors:

• The crowded towns and beaches in the

south still have some charm, in particu-
lar during off-season.
• Ubud, the cultural heart of Bali, is a
Jatiluwih rice terraces. place where you can easily spend many
days relaxing, being pampered in
spas and enjoying the cuisines at many
romantic restaurants and resorts.
• Northwest of Ubud are the Alas Keda-
ton temple, the Pura Luhur Batukaru
temple located on the southern slope of
Mount Batukaru, and Pura Ulun Danu
Beratan, a Shaivite water temple.
• Northwest of Ubud are the Pura Ulun
Danu Batur temple and the scenic
Danau Batur Hot Springs.
• A bit further south lies the Pura Besakih,
the “Mother Temple of Bali”, on the
southwestern slope of active Mount
Agung volcano.
• There is so much more to see and ex-
perience than this short list. Rent a car
and drive all around the island.

Feature l Indonesia | 27
Indonesia: Bali Island
is harvested during the dry season which
generally lasts from early June to the end of
July. Note that many areas have more than a
single crop per year. Some have up to three
crops, which makes it hard to pin down the
exact time of the year to see the lush green
terraces, though in the wet season you are
guaranteed swathes of greenery!
Ubud Town
A typical day trip from the southern
beaches driving north to the town of
Ubud will provide an opportunity to enjoy
the interesting Bali Bird & Reptile Park,
Ubud - It’s a Way of Life
Ubud has a long history for many travel-
lers who stay here on every visit to Bali,
many who moved here to make Bali their
seasonal or permanent home.
Ubud is a way of life. You either have
Ubud in your blood, or you soon will.
Like many places on the island, Ubud has
seen more tranquil times in the past.
Back 20 years ago, on my very first visit,
the town was rustic and laid back with
only a handful of foreign visitors. Sadly,
nowadays the streets are often locked in
traffic jams with bus-loads of tourists des-
cending on Ubud, taking day trips from
the southern beach resorts and hotels.
Still, Ubud is a way of life to many who
live by the rhythm of the town. It has
it all: great restaurants, yoga, medita-
tions, spas and massages, artists, shops,
temples, museums, everything you need.
Cycle or hike out of town, or stay in a
guest house on the fringes of town, and
you will be at ease among the lush tropic-
al vegetation only interrupted by ancient
moss-covered Hindu temples and shrines.
Sit down next to a meandering stream
and find peace and quiet. It is a way of
life. Ubud life!
28 Globerovers · July 2018
the Bali Zoo, Tegenungan Waterfall, and are considered sacred, and with the hordes
the Goa Gajah Gianyar (Elephant Cave of flying foxes, they have taken over the
Temple). A few minutes’ drive east will get Alas Kedaton temple and its moss-covered
you to Pura Samuan Tiga, and the same walls which are being swallowed by the
distance south to Yeh Pulu with its ancient dense misty forest of tall nutmeg trees.  
Balinese rock carvings. Continuing further north you will find
From here drive to Ubud and sleep the Pura Luhur Batukaru temple, located
in one of the many guesthouses or hotels on the southern slope of Mount Batukaru,
catering for all budgets. Some of the more
special accommodation is located on the
fringes of Ubud town, nestled among the Pura Taman Ayun.
rice fields.
Among the highlights in the art-lover’s
town of Ubud are the monkey forest, the
Pura Taman Saraswati temple, the Pura
Padang Kerta temple, Puri Saren royal
palace, and the art markets around town.
Make sure to see an evening perfor-
mance of Kecak dance at the Pura Dalem
Taman Kaja, and visit a spa and have a
Balinese massage. Other interesting tra-
ditional performances include the Barong
“scary mask dance”, Baris “war dance”,
Legong “pointed lady finger dance”, and
the cendrawasih dance performed by two
ladies depicting the mating rituals of the
bird of paradise.  
Get up before sunrise and walk down
to the bridge over the river at the Gunung
Lebah temple. From here the Campuhan
Ridge Walk meanders high above the
quaint valleys on both sides, past beautiful
scenery and a few small restaurants that
serve breakfast with strong Bali Kinta-
mani coffee. The air is cool, and the hillside
vistas are beautiful.
The Northwest
The area north of Ubud to the crater
lakes of Danau Beratan in the northwest,
and Danau Batur towards the northeast,
are best explored over a two-day period.
On the first day, stop at the beauti-
ful Taman Ayun temple in the village of
Mengwi. Built in the early 17th century,
this temple is a classic example of tra-
ditional architectural features loved by
the rulers of the Mengwi kingdom. The
towering tiers of the temple shrines and its
courtyards and enclosures, complete with
expansive garden landscapes with lotus
and fish ponds make this temple special.  
A short drive to the north of Taman
Ayun temple will take you to the Alas Ke-
daton monkey forest. This monkey forest
gets far fewer tourists than the Ubud mon-
key forest. The Balinese long-tail Macaques
 Bali’s second-highest volcano. Built dur-
ing the 11th century and destroyed in the
17th century, it was rebuilt in 1959. The
tallest, seven-tiered tower, is dedicated to
Mahadewa, the god of Mount Batukaru.
This highly sacred temple offers the local
Hindus several ceremonies throughout the
year and many parts of the temple are off-
Pura Luhur Batukaru.
limits to tourists. The vegetation around
the temple is very colourful and lush. Look
out for the massive tree ferns.
Head further north to Pura Ulun Danu
Beratan, a Shaivite water temple on the
shores of Lake Bratan.
Constructed in 1633, it is dedicated to
Dewi Danu, the Balinese water, lake and
river goddess. This temple is one of Bali’s
most famous and picturesque landmarks,
and likely the most photographed temple
in Bali. The mirror reflections of the tall
tiered towers on the smooth surface of the
lake surrounding it give the impression
that it is floating on the water.
The Ubud way of life.
Pura Tuluk Biyu Batur.
Feature l Indonesia | 29
Indonesia: Bali Island

30 Globerovers · July 2018

 The mist-covered mountains encircling an elevation of over 900 metres along the so the raised alerts should be monitored
the lake provide a scenic backdrop to the southwestern slope of active Mount Agung before visiting this area.
temple. Be here during sunrise or sunset volcano, it is the most revered and largest Be here during a full moon when
for brilliant photographic scenery.  Hindu temple in Bali. pilgrims throng to the temple. During
The artistic temple complex covers a April, the temple is elaborately decorated
 The Northeast vast area and offers breathtaking views of for the festival of Odalan when pilgrims
the surrounding mountain scenery. hike through the heavily incensed air while
Directly to the east of Lake Bratan lies humming ancient prayers for a prosperous
While some ancient inscriptions dat-
Mount Batur, another active volcano. To life.
ing back to the 2nd century refer to this
the east side of the volcano is the cal-
temple, there is enough evidence that it Done with Pura Besakih, head southwest
dera Lake Batur known for the many hot
was a popular and one of the holiest Hindu to Ubud town for a well-deserved spa treat-
springs along its western shores.
temples by the 15th century. ment and traditional dance show, followed
To the west side of the volcano is Pura by a romantic dinner. You will be so happy
The centre of the temple complex,
Ulun Danu Batur temple, the second you are visiting Bali, the island of the gods!
known as Pura Penataran Agung, consists
most important temple in Bali, after Pura
of 22 temples on six rising terraces and
Besakih to the southeast. Also dedicated is the main place of worship. Assumed to
to Dewi Danu, the Balinese water, lake and have been saved by the gods, the temple
river goddess, this temple was built in 1926 miraculously survived a devastating
after a violent volcanic eruption destroyed eruption by Mount Agung in 1963 which
the earlier 17th-century Mengwi Kingdom killed an estimated 1,100 to 1,500 people.
temple. The tallest 11-tiered tower was Mudflows caused by heavy rainfall after
spared by the volcano and still stands today.   the eruption killed an additional number
After a relaxing time in the Danau of people. Even more people were killed by
Batur Hot Springs, head southeast to pyroclastic flows a few weeks later. At the
Pura Besakih, affectionately known as time of writing, June 2018, Mount Agung
the “Mother Temple of Bali”. Located at continues its high levels of seismic activity,

Danau Batur Hot Springs.

Pura Besakih temple.

Feature l Indonesia | 31
32 Globerovers · July 2018
Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, Bali
This Shaivite water temple on the shores of Lake Bratan was
constructed in 1633 and is dedicated to Dewi Danu, the Balinese
water, lake and river goddess.

Feature l Indonesia | 33
Indonesia: Lombok Island

Photo Left: Kuta Beach remains the playground of

the local kids and the friendly stray dogs, though a new
resort is being built on the beach.

Photo Below: Performance at a wedding, Kuta Beach.

Selong Belanak Beach.

LOMBOK ISLAND come popular among tourists. Fortunately, The town’s beach remains undeveloped,
the most touristy places are confined to although this is set to change during late
Long described as the perfect getaway the areas around Senggigi Beach along the 2018 and beyond. For now, it is mostly
from Bali, Lombok remains pristine. western coast, and Kuta Beach in the far crowded with a few fishermen and school
south. The kids, as well as

D
irectly east of Bali lies the rest of Lom- Lombok Island is mostly void of mass tourism some friendly
island of Lombok. Spanning bok remains stray dogs.
a total land area of 4,725 km², very peaceful
with many parts unspoiled and undiscovered. The town is a
which makes it slightly smaller than Bali, and void of Hop on a bicycle or scooter and explore! perfect base
Lombok’s main tourist areas are in selected any signifi- for the south-
spots on the western and southern coasts. cant number of tourists. ern beach areas located to the west and the
For a while now people have advised trav- The small town of Kuta in the south- east of Kuta.
ellers in search of tranquillity to hop over central part of Lombok has been a travel- West of Kuta are the beaches of Are-
to Lombok to avoid the crowds of Bali. lers’ favourite base for a long time. Here Guling, Mawun, Tampah, Lancing, Mu-
Well, too many travellers have listened you will find many small guesthouses, nah, Telawas, Mawi, and Selong Belanak.
to that advice, so even Lombok has be- hotels, home stays, and restaurants. Selong Belanak is the furthest west of these

34 Globerovers · July 2018


beaches located about 25 km from Kuta. It
is not possible to visit all these beaches in
one day, so select about four or five them.
Do make sure to visit Mawi Beach
(Pantai Mawi). To reach Mawi Beach, rent
a scooter from Kuta and take the road
towards the west. At around the 20 km
mark, turn left onto a small dirt road. This
is a rough road and at times you may want
to push the bike or turn around. Don’t turn
around. Keep going. You will reach Mawi
Beach about 4 km further, and you will
think you’re in heaven. Have a cold beer
under one of the small basic thatched roofs
and then hike northwest along the beach
and over the rocky outcrop to another long
and spectacular beach.
Should you continue further along
Lancing Beach.
this beach, though I’m not sure if that is
possible, you will reach the long beach of
Selong Belanak where you may see water
buffaloes right on the beach. This is a great
photo opportunity as the buffaloes walk
lazily on the beach.
Northwest of Selong Belanak lies the
port of Lembar, the gateway to a few small
islands such as Gili Asahan and Gili Gede.
Here you will find a few places to stay and
a very laid-back lifestyle. Lembar port
is best reached within 2.5 hours by boat
across the Lombok Strait from Bali’s Benoa
(Denpasar) port, or further north at Bali’s
Padang Bai port, which is a shorter cross-
ing.
Just 5 km to the east of Kuta Beach is
Pantai Tanjung Ann. Further along this
LOMBOK ISLAND
Semeti Beach.
Mawun Beach.
Selong Belanak Beach.
road, about 56 km from Kuta, is Tanjung
Ringgit at the southeastern tip of Lombok.
This area is quite remote and beautiful. At
some places, the cliffs rise several metres
above the turquoise sea.
Lombok’s highest peak is Mount
Rinjani, an active volcano that soars up
3,726 m, making it the second highest vol-
cano in Indonesia. Rinjani last ejected ash
into the atmosphere on 27 September 2016.
Surrounded by the Gunung Rinjani Nation-
al Park, an increasing number of travellers
venture into this area. Climbers are allowed,
when the volcano is inactive, to climb
down the 200 metres deep caldera lake,
or to make the more arduous climb to the
highest peak. Hiking trips include sleeping
a minimum of one night on the mountain.
Sunrises and sunsets are stunning!
Feature l Indonesia | 35
 Mawi Beach, Lombok Island
Mawi is hard to reach but it certainly is worth the effort. Here you can
sit under the palm thatch beach cafés sipping a cold Bintang beer while
watching the surfers riding the waves.

36 Globerovers · July 2018

Feature l Indonesia | 37
Indonesia: Gili Islands

Balinese, the Sumbawa people, Tionghoa
Peranakan (Chinese), the Flores people,
and some Indonesian Arabs.
THE GILI ISLANDS Located to the furthest west, Gili
Trawangan, or affectionately called “Gili
Famously portrayed in Julia Roberts’
T”, is the biggest of the triplets. As it is the is famous for its snorkelling, outstand-
movie “Eat, Pray, Love”, this is bliss!
first stop for most ferries coming from
small tables with flickering candles. As the
smallest of the three, least populated and
least developed, Gili Meno is also known
as the romantic island, ideal for lovebirds
and honeymooning couples. Gili Meno
ing white sand beaches, and turquoise
waters as well, and can still be described as

G
Bali, Gili Trawangan is where most of the
ili islands: No cars, No motor- backpackers and their rowdy mates get off. somewhat “untouched, unspoiled, and an
bikes, No problem! It is the party island, unquestionably. It is unshared sanctuary”.
Gili means “little island”, also the most developed of the three, and A reminder that while Gili Meno had
and there are several “gilis” around Lom- the best island to find a scuba dive school, few tourists not too long ago, nowadays
bok, particularly off the southwest and pool parties, boutique spas with Balinese the island has its fair share of tourists and
northwest coast of Lombok. However, massages, beach cafes, cooking schools, tourist developments. Beaches on the
when you say “Gili island”, most locals gift shops, and barbecue dinners. north and east sides are safe for swim-
know you mean the gilis in the northwest At night, ming which
of Lombok. Gili Trawa- makes Gili
ngan comes
Meet Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air: Meno popular
Imagine a small island fringed by
white-sand beaches and coconut palms, alive with three little paradise islands laying side by side in among fami-
beach par- lies with small
surrounded by turquoise sea waters. And the Bali Sea. This, is paradise! kids in tow.
yes, no cars, and not even motorbikes. This ties, dancing,
drinking, While the
is as close to paradise as you can get. But
bonfires, and everything a lonely back- number of guesthouses and restaurants are
wait. Multiply this by three, as there are
packer and the dedicated party-goers want, far less than on Gili Trawangan, they are
three such islands side by side.
such as the monthly full-moon parties! scattered around the island except for the
Welcome to the triplets of Indonesia’s southern part which is almost uninhab-
There is no lack of a variety of accom-
Gili Islands! ited. Beaches in the south are not great and
modation, including budget guesthouses,
Meet Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and fancy villas and all-inclusive resorts. some sections are covered with pebbles
Gili Air: three little paradise islands laying However, somewhere along the two-hour and rocks. On the east side of the island is
side by side in the Bali Sea. Located off hike around the island, or while cycling, a small turtle hatchery.
the northwest corner of Lombok Island, you will find tranquil spots to escape from The best beaches on Gili Meno are on
these island triplets were once tranquil and the bustling social life on the island. Pop in the north and east coasts but be sure to
totally undeveloped, until their paradise at the turtle hatchery and look out for the mark your spot at one of the many beach
secrets became public a few years ago. turtles while snorkelling. bars on the western side to see the sunset
Since then, their popularity, in particular
If you are less inclined to partying with over Gili Trawangan, and Bali Island in
among partying backpackers, has exploded
the backpackers, then get off at the middle the distance. On clear days you will see the
and so have the continuing development of
island, Gili Meno. Here partying is limited beautifully cone-shaped Mount Agung, an
hotels, guesthouses, restaurants and a slew to sipping cocktails at candle-lit beach bars active volcano and the highest peak on Bali
of tourism-related services. Speedboats and listening to romantic music. Even bet- Island. Before you leave, take a hike to the
from Bali zip back and forth to bring loads ter, sit on one of the big beanbags strewn brackish lake towards the western side of
of excited tourists. During high season, the around on the sandy beach, separated by the island, which is arguably the quietest
loads are bigger and rowdier. Sound like
another disastrous result of increased mass
tourism? Indeed, it is.
But fear not, as each Gili has its own
distinct personality, and each tends to at-
tract a different type of traveller. 
While most of the local population on
these islands are of the Sarak ethnic group
who can also be found on Lombok, several
ethnic groups were drawn here by the
booming tourism industry. Traditionally
the Sarak people live off fishing, but they
are increasingly turning to the lucrative
tourist arrivals. You will also find a small
minority whose faith is Bodha, which is a
belief in a mixture of Animism and Bud-
dhism. Other ethnic groups include the Sunset over Bali Island and active Agung volcano.

38 Globerovers · July 2018

part of the island.
If neither Gili Trawangan nor Gili
Meno suits your taste, then head further
east to nearby Gili Air. This is the ideal
island if you are looking for a more lazing
around or hippy adventure where Bob
Marley tunes are blaring while you gaze
towards Mount Rinjani, an active volcano
located on Lombok’s mountainous north-
ern coast.
Gili Air can be described as a more
upmarket, alternative social scene. Along
with the laid-back atmosphere, there is
also an air of sophistication with a more
mature crowd. Here you will also find
more of the Sarak indigenous local popula-
tion than on Gili Meno. So, if you want to
experience a more authentic local indig-
enous scene where the locals have main-
tained their own identity, then Gili Air is
the place.
The island has a good supply of fresh
water, so locals are farming actively.
Though some accommodation tends
to be more rustic than the other two Gili
islands, which may just be what your hippy
adventure is all about, there are enough
upscale places to stay. While Gili Air has
most of the amenities of the other two
Gili Meno jungle.
islands, such as diving, snorkelling, drink-
ing, and even a little partying, the focus
here is on the big chill. Chill out in the
morning, afternoon, evening, sleep, repeat!
While full moon parties do exist, and some
partying at night, parties here are more
subdued and under control than on Gili
Trawangan.
“Each Gili island appeals to
a dif ferent type of traveller.
Everyone can find an area that
most appeals to them. Love it!”
From Bali, catch a fast boat from
several ports including Amed, Padang
Bai, and Serangan to Gili Trawangan from
where you can board a small boat if you
choose to rather stay on Gili Meno or
Gili Air. From Lombok Island, the public
ferries and private fast boats leave from
Bangsal harbour. Alternatively get on a fast
boat from Teluk Nara, south of Bangsal.   and Gili Air for the humour of the local
Hopping among the three islands is
easily done by local shuttle boats that ply
the routes, mainly once in the morning
GILI ISLANDS
and once in the afternoon. Small outrigger
boats are also available for rent if you want
to check out all three islands in one day
and do some snorkelling at a few different
spots.
Due to the schedule and unpredictable
weather, it is not a smart idea to plan a
day trip from either Bali or Lombok to the
Gili islands. Even though it can be done if
you are lucky, more so from Lombok, you
should stay a night or two to enjoy the vibe
during sunset and sunrise over the islands.
Don’t miss these magical hours!
Staying a few nights on each island is
the best decision, though if you have to
choose one or two, remember their distinct
personalities: Gili Trawangan for the fun
and partying young, and young at heart;
Gili Meno for the romantic atmosphere
and family-friendly white sandy beaches;
Sarak people and the alternative, more ma-
ture travellers who are more upscale and
like to reminisce on their hippy past.
Beaches of Gili Meno.
Beaches of Gili Meno.
Feature l Indonesia | 39
Indonesia: Flores Island

While the town sees numerous travel- respectively green and reddish-black and
lers mainly heading to the islands, the separated by a crater wall.  
rest of Flores has an undeveloped tourist Labuan Bajo, where most travellers fly
FLORES ISLAND infrastructure, and hence few travellers. A into the Komodo Airport just 2 km from
few hotels are dotted along the coast and the centre of town, has several guest-
While Bali bursts with tourists, Flores sits another few in the centre of the island at
houses, hotels and even a few resorts. Head
quietly and waits for the lone visitor. Ruteng Pu’u village where you can stay in uphill, north of the town, for the better
a traditional round wooden thatched-roof places with brilliant views over the nearby

A
s one of the Lesser Sunda house. Other interesting villages include islands. Many of these nearby islands offer
Islands, located in the Nusa Bena and Wae Rebo village. excellent snorkelling and diving, including
Tenggara region in the eastern Located in the far west of the island, the islands of Kanawa and Seraya.
half of Indonesia, Flores Island, meaning the Kelimutu National Park has some of Most travellers who fly into Labuan
“flowers” in Portuguese, was first visited by the most spectacular wonders that nature Bajo come here with one thing in mind:
the Portuguese traders and missionaries in has to offer. seeing the Komodo dragons in their natu-
1511. ral habitat. While not truly a “dragon”
While Flores is the tenth big- Most travellers come to Flores Island with one as we would like to imagine, it is the
gest Indonesian island, as well as world’s largest lizard. They are truly
the tenth most populous, its tour-
thing in mind: To have a close encounter with the magnificent and massively big!
ist population is minuscule. Komodo dragons in their natural habitat. The world sanctuary of the Ko-
Divided into eight “regencies”, modo dragons is the Komodo National
the largest regency is the West Manggarai The park’s highest peak is Mt. Kelibara Park, which spreads across the three larger
Regency, with the town of Labuan Bajo (1,731 metres). Here you will find three islands namely Komodo Island, Padar
as its capital. Once a small fishing village, lakes known as the “tri-coloured lakes” Island, and Rinca Island, as well as some
Labuan Bajo is now a fair-sized town of as they change colour dramatically and 20 smaller islands. Founded in 1980 to
over 220,000 people and serves as the gate- unpredictably: blue, green, and reddish- protect the Komodo dragons, the Komodo
way to Flores and the nearby islands, in- black. The westernmost of the three lakes, National Park was declared a UNESCO
cluding the Komodo National Park, which Tiwu Ata Mbupu (the “old people’s lake”) World Heritage Site in 1991.
spans across several islands. The park is is usually blue, while Tiwu Nuwa Muri Getting to see the dragons, which live
home to the Komodo dragon, which is the Koo Fai (the “young people’s lake”) and mainly on Komodo and Rinca islands, you
area’s biggest tourist draw. Tiwu Ata Polo (the “enchanted lake”), are need to get on a boat which leaves from

Boat trip from Labuan Bajo, Flores Island.

40 Globerovers · July 2018

the Labuan Bajo harbour.
Depending on your agreement with the
captain, your trip will include stops to see
the dragons on Komodo island and Rinca
island, and a hike up the beautiful peaks
of Padar island, the third largest land mass
within the Komodo National Park. This 20
to 30-minute hike may be the highlight of
Flores is the 10th biggest
Indonesian island, and the 10th
most populous. Its tourist
population is minuscule.
your boat trip as the magnificent views of
the nearby islands are stunning, particu-
larly at sunset and sunrise. The sharp rocky
outcrops and turquoise bays change in co-
lour as they catch the rays of light, creating
many “Kodak moments”.
Padar Island.
Kelor Island.
To the north of Padar island lays Manta FLORES ISLAND
Point, aptly named after the creatures that
frequent these waters. Bring along your
snorkelling equipment, or better still, your
diving gear, and spend some quality time
with the incredibly inquisitive manta rays.
This may be something you have never
done, may never have the opportunity to
do again, and you certainly won’t forget
this thrilling experience for the rest of your
life. Just float on the water surface and wait
for these large creatures to come closer to
you and circle around you. If they wander
off, just follow them. They swim ever so
gracefully, turn back and circle around you,
as if they want to get you moving and not
lose you. You may think they are leading
Picking your Boat
you to the rest of their pack, which is ex-
actly what I personally experienced. At one
To see the dragons, which live
point I counted no less than fifteen manta
mainly on Komodo and Rinca islands,
rays circling around me. Don’t fear, they are
you have a few options.
totally harmless, and have no venomous
tail spines like their stingray cousins. The cheapest is a day tour with a
large group of people in a big boat,
while the most expensive is a luxury
private live-aboard yacht on a multi-
day excursion. Many options in be-
tween these two extremes are possible,
depending on your available time and
budget.
If you are visiting in high season
around June and July, everything is
more expensive, and it is advisable to
book a boat well in advance. Going
during the off-season, but preferably
outside the rainy season of January
to March, you will save money by not
booking in advance but rather select
and book upon arrival.
A day or two before your planned
boat departure, walk down the main
street to compare fees at a few agen-
cies. Also, go to the piers and check
out the boats and negotiate directly
with the boat captains.
Book a trip of at least two nights
so you will sleep on the boat, either
inside a cabin or outside on the deck,
but under cover. The boat itself can be
a great adventure, but make sure to
carefully select a good boat, depend-
ing on your budget, which comes with
a friendly captain who speaks sufficient
English.
You’re off on an amazing adventure.
I promise you!
Feature l Indonesia | 41
Indonesia: Flores Island
Don’t miss the early evening spectacle
at Kalong Island, also inside the Komodo
National Park, where thousands of flying-
fox bats put on an amazing display as they
leave the mangrove forests to go night
hunting.
After at least one night on the boat,
return to Labuan Bajo, but make a stop at
Kelor Island for a short hike and snorkel-
ling. The views from the top of Kelor’s
peak are awesome. Along the way, the boat
passes a few small villages of sea nomads,
such as the primitive yet friendly Mesa
village. Here you will see houses built
precariously on stilts over the water, and
hundreds of small fish out drying in the
sun. While the village has no fresh water,
many houses have satellite dishes! Drink-
ing water must be transported to the island
from nearby sources.
Be happy when you arrive safely at the
Labuan Bajo harbour and then head out to
42 Globerovers · July 2018
the long row of fresh fish restaurants lined included in the price. Sit down at one of
up along the harbour. These restaurants are the wobbly plastic tables, order a cold Bin-
only open in the evenings and they spread tang beer, and wait for your meal to arrive
out their daily catch in front of their grills. a few minutes later. Its fresh, its good, and
Bargaining seems to be fruitless as they all if possible you will return the following
have similar set prices. These are among night, and again the night after that.
the freshest seafood on sale at any restau- In the early mornings check out the
rant I have ever seen, anywhere. Choose interesting wet market at the harbour, in
the fish of your liking and explain how you particular the fresh and dried fish sections.
want it to be prepared: steamed, pan-fried, It is a market filled with surprises and
or grilled. Rice and veggies are generally friendly merchants. GR
Indonesia is a vast country to explore. While some areas such as Bali
are quite touristy, many places are void of any tourists.
The locals are generally friendly, the food is great, and nature is
spectacular. Once you have discovered the of f-the-beaten-track
parts of Indonesia, you will return again and again!
 ESSENTIAL
Getting There
The main hub for arriving in Indonesia is
the capital, Jakarta. Many airlines have
hubs in cities such as Denpasar (Bali),
Surabaya, Yogyakarta, Medan and Band-
ung. Several of these cities can be reached
from around Asia such as Singapore,
Bangkok, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur and
others. Indonesian airlines don’t have great
safety records, though Garuda is the best.
When to Go
Indonesia is vast, so its weather can’t be
generalized. However, roughly speaking,
the driest time is May to September while
the wet season is between November and
March with January and February being the
wettest. In Sumatra it is almost the oppo-
site. Wet season travel has its benefits!
Dining Out
While Indonesia is not generally known for
its cuisine, you will find many unique re-
gional dishes, most of which are delicious.
Being an archipelagic nation, seafood is
abundant, and not expensive. Bali is a
culinary delight, but in less touristy places
it can be hard to find a good restaurant.
INFORMATION
Getting Around
The fastest way to get around the many
islands of Indonesia is by flying. Garuda,
the national airline, recently improved their
safety record and has an extensive network
of routes among the islands. Where Garuda
does not fly, you likely will find another local
airline that covers the route. Renting a car
and driver is a great idea, rent a scooter, or
take taxis, minibuses, trains, and boats!
Where to Stay
Indonesia is one of the travel destinations
where you will find the greatest variety and
best value-for-money accommodation. Ac-
commodation options are generally good
and mostly very affordable. Even in some
of the most off-the-beaten-track destina-
tions will you find places to stay!
Train Journeys
The majority of Indonesia’s rail tracks are
on Java Island, stretching from the far
west to the far east near Bali. Sumatra has
limited tracks. Trains are cheap, comfort-
able and air-conditioned. Construction is
underway to expand rail services, including
on the islands of Kalimantan and Sulawesi.
Photography
Even though most people in Indone-
sia are Muslim and more conservative,
photographing people in their daily life is
generally not a problem. Always follow the
golden rule to take portraits without people
knowing, or to ask first. Indonesia is incred-
ibly photogenic: beaches, mountains, active
volcanoes, ancient temples, religious cer-
emonies, and endless “Kodak moments”.
Packing
Indonesia has the largest Muslim popula-
tion in the world, so it is wise to dress
respectfully and conservatively. It is a warm
country, so unless you climb the high eleva-
tions you won’t need warm clothes. If you
travel to remote places, first stock up on all
kinds of medication that you may need.
Cost of Travel
While Indonesia caters for all budget sizes,
value for money is generally good, espe-
cially in Bali. The price of food, accommo-
dation, tours, transport, and everything else
is very reasonable, except in some tourist
spots where the “local mafia” operates to
rip off unsuspecting tourists. Be vigilant.
Feature l Indonesia | 43
 10 rt avel
Experiences in Indonesia
1 Borobudur Temple
View sunrise from the ruins
The 9th century ruins of Borobudur temple on
Central Java Island are spectacular. Choosing your
visit during the right time of the year and the right
time of the day is important.

Plan your visit to coincide with the annual Vesak

Day Festival in April or May. Participate in the long
and colourful procession as it winds through the
streets from the Mendut temple to the main temple
of Borobudur. Enjoy the evening and all-night
festivities complete with chanting monks, medita-
tion, colourful traditional dances, and the release
of thousands of lanterns into the full-moon sky.
Return to the main temple at 04:30 to enjoy and
photograph a stunning sunrise over the ruins.
The twilight period before the sun peaks over the
smouldering volcanoes and the ruins will paint your
photos in soft blue and pink hues. Awesome!

2 Orangutan
spotting in Sumatra 3 Temple Hopping
in Bali and Central Java 4 Volcanic Active
Dieng Plateau

The riverside village of Bukit Lawang in
the northern part of Indonesia’s Suma-
tra Island is the gateway to the Gunung
Leuser National Park, home to the
Sumatran orangutans. If you are on a
very short stay, at least visit the feeding
station near the village. Best is to hire
a guide and set off into the jungle for at
least one or two nights. A porter or two
will take care of the tents and food. You
should be lucky to come across many
orangutans, Thomas leaf monkeys, gib-
bons, and other wildlife. Always remain
eco-friendly and do not allow yourself or
your guide to feed the wildlife!
44 Globerovers · July 2018
Indonesia has no shortage of temples,
which reflects its pre-Islamic history.
The three main temple types that can
be found are the Javanese ancient
Hindu temples (candi), Balinese temples
(puram), and the Indian Hindu temples
(mandir). While modern Indonesia is
predominantly Muslim with some Chris-
tians, Bali’s population remain followers
of Balinese Hinduism. As most ancient
temples across Indonesia are merely
museum pieces, the temples of Bali are
still home to daily worships and frequent
colourful festivals. Many temples are in
striking locations.
Indonesia is both cursed and blessed
with volcanic activity. Most of the is-
lands, including the two largest islands
of Sumatra and Java, are still being
shaped by ongoing volcanic activity. In
addition to witnessing active volcanoes
from a safe distance, or sneaking closer
during times of lower activity, one of
the most exciting places to have close
encounters with the raw force of thermal
earth is at the Dieng Plateau in central
Java Island. Located about 140 km north
of Yogyakarta city, the plateau is dotted
with steam vents, bubbling mud pools,
geysers, and boiling sulphur lakes.
 5 Volcano Hiking
among smouldering vents
Almost every island in the Indonesian
archipelago has an extinct or still ac-
tive volcano to conquer, spanning all
levels of difficulty and thermal activity
levels. Some of the more accessible
volcanoes, where finding an experi-
enced guide is not too hard, are on
Sumatra (Mount Kerinci), Java (Kawah
Ijen, Mount Bromo, Mount Penanjakan,
Mount Merbabu), Bali (Mount Agung,
Mount Batur), Lombok (Mount Rinjani),
and Flores (Mount Kelimutu). Some real
easy sunset climbs are Sikunir Hill at
Dieng Plateau and the peaks at Rinca
Island in the Komodo National Park.
8 Komodo Dragons
world’s biggest lizards
Using the town of Labuan Bajo on
Flores Island as the springboard for
a multi-day boating adventure among
the idyllic islands, make a few stops
within the Komodo National Park, which
spans across several islands includ-
ing Komodo and Rinca Islands where
most of the Komodo dragons live.
These “dragons”, which are nothing but
overgrown lizards, are huge and rather
fearsome. Early mornings are best to
visit, and you will be chaperoned by
one of the park rangers equipped with a
long stick to protect you from an attack-
ing dragon, if they wake up!
6 Beaches
unlimited and unspoiled
With a coastline of over 50,000 km
long, Indonesia has no shortage of
beautiful beaches, many of which are
remote and hardly visited by anybody.
Just fly over the islands and you will be
stunned by the number of remote white
beaches with turquoise waters. Among
the easy-to-reach beaches are those on
the south shores of Lombok Island, a
short flight from Bali. In the small town
of Kuta Lombok, rent a motorbike and
head out to the east, visiting as many
beaches as you can. The more remote
and hard to get to, the more beautiful.
Head west and discover more beaches.
9 Manta Rays
follow-the-leader
On the same multi-day boating ad-
venture, visit the manta rays at Manta
Point, known as Karang Makassar
by the locals. Some of these majes-
tic creatures can have a wingspan of
up to 4 m. Just swim along and they
will likely lead you to where most of
their friends are. Then, they will circle
around you, checking you out. Don’t
fear as they are as inquisitive as you
are, and are totally harmless. Some
other creatures you may come across
are turtles, giant trevallies, huge clams,
eagle rays, cuttlefish, and even the odd
shark.
7 Cultural Dances
of the Balinese people
Bali has a rich history of traditional
dancing which is largely influenced
by its Hindu roots. Hence, most of the
dances are sacred, rather than purely
for entertainment purposes. The Wali
dances such as the Baris war dance
and the Sanghyang are mostly per-
formed in the temples. Some sacred
dances are also performed at tourist
venues. Among the dances often per-
formed are the Kecak, Barong, Legong,
Kebyar, and the Sanghyang fire dance.
Some of the other dances include the
Gambuh, Topeng, Pendet, Wayang-
wong, Janger and the Joged dance.
10 Hot Springs
of northern Bali
Being a volcanic active island, with
smouldering volcanoes, Bali has many
hot springs. Whether you like a secret
hot pool nestled in the jungle, or a
natural hot spring pool adjacent to your
luxury hotel, you will find some place
that fits your taste and budget. Along
the shores of Lake Batur are several
hot springs located in an idyllic spot.
Alternatively, soak at the Tabanan Hot
Springs on the banks of the flowing Yeh
Panas River below Mount Batukara, the
sacred healing waters of the Banjar Hot
Springs in the central far north, or the
hottest one: the Belulang Hot Springs.
Feature l Indonesia | 45
46 Globerovers · July 2018
47
 Photo Essay
GALAPAGOS ISLANDS
I slas Galápagos, named after
the shells of saddlebacked
Galápagos tortoises, is an
archipelago of volcanic islands
distributed around the equator, almost 1,000
kilometres west of continental Ecuador in
South America.
These islands are famed for their
endemic species. Studied by Charles Darwin
back in the 1830’s, they contributed to the
inception of Darwin’s theory of evolution by
natural selection.
Darwin, aged 26, reached the remote
Galapagos Islands in September 1835 on
board the HMS Beagle, a three-mast ship,
from Devonport (Plymouth) in the United
Kingdom. Having left the U.K. five years
48 Globerovers · July 2018
earlier, at the tender age of just 22, his Gala-
pagos stop-over was only a short part of his
almost 5-year global rendezvous via Austra-
lia, South Africa, and Brazil.
His short visit to the Galapagos is
arguably the most significant contribution
to his book, The Zoology of the Voy-
age of HMS Beagle, which consists of five
parts: Fossil Mammalia, Mammalia, Birds,
Fish, and Reptiles.
At the time of his visit, Darwin was
likely one of only a few humans roaming
these remote islands. Other than his entou-
rage of 74 people who joined his journey, few
people lived on the islands.
While the first known permanent hu-
man resident was Patrick Watkins, an Irish
sailor, the islands became popular hunting
grounds for whale hunters. Some of the
whalers stayed behind to grow food for pass-
ing whale ships.
An unofficial “post office under the
tree” was also established where whalers
picked up and dropped off letters. This “post
office” remains active to this day. Write your
letter and drop it in the wooden box where
 Ecuador

Galapagos Islands “ Extreme tameness is common to all the terrestrial

species. A gun is here superfluous; for with the muzzle
I pushed a hawk off the branch of a tree.”
Charles Darwin, Voyage of HMS Beagle

Photo: Marine iguana.

subsequent visitors will sort through the and on about 100 live-aboard boats and and unique fauna and flora, the Galapagos is
letters and take along and deliver those ad- cruise ships. the place to visit.
dressed to homes near their future destina- The growth of the lucrative tourism The best way to experience these natu-
tions. industry is not exactly out of control, accord- ral wonders is to board a live-aboard boat for
It was back in 1835 when Darwin ar- ing to the Ecuador government who claims a week or two. They sail at night between the
rived. Fast-forward 183 years to 2018. Now to “fully understand and control” the impact many islands and offer daytime hiking and
more than 25,000 souls live on the Galapagos, of tourism on the fragile ecosystem of the diving among land and sea creatures.
mostly in the town of Puerto Ayora on Santa islands. Apparently “thousands of tourists” One of the most amazing experiences
Cruz Island. Among the other inhabited is- are annually refused entrance to the islands, on the Galapagos Islands is that the animals
lands are San Cristobal, Isabela, and Floreana. in their effort to minimize the human impact. have little fear of humans. Walk up close to
In addition to the permanent resi- The Galapagos Islands are arguably most animals but keep a comfortable distance
dents, over a quarter of a million tourists the crown jewel of South America. If you are in respect of this special human-animal rela-
visit annually, staying in almost 300 hotels interested in geology, volcanology, evolution, tionship of trust. Never touch the animals!

Photo Essay l Galapagos Islands | 49

Galapagos Islands, ECUADOR

Marine iguana.

Land iguana.

50 Globerovers · July 2018

 Land iguana.

Marine iguana.

Photo Essay l Galapagos Islands | 51

 THE GALAPAGOS MARINE IGUANAS
The only sea-going lizard in the world can be found on about every rocky part of the Galapagos Islands shorelines.
They dive deep down into the water to graze on a variety of seaweeds. While the waters provide them with an abun-
dant source of food, they can’t linger too long in the cold water and need to return to the rocks to warm up in the sun.

Don’t get too close or they will blow, or likely sneeze, saltwater from their nose in your direction! Their population
has been estimated at between 200,000 and 300,000.

Their cousins, the land iguanas, are yellowish in colour and live in the drier areas of the islands where they feed
mainly on low-growing plants and shrubs, as well as fallen fruits and cactus pads. Both land and marine species are
under threat of strong El Niño events, oil spills, as well as cats and dogs.

52 Globerovers · July 2018

Photo Essay l Galapagos Islands | 53
Galapagos Islands, ECUADOR

Nazca boobies.

54 Globerovers · July 2018

THE NAZCA BOOBY
The Nazca booby breeds primarily on the Galapagos of Ecuador and the Malpelo Archipelagos off
the coast of Colombia. There are also small breeding populations along the Ecuadorian and Peru-
vian coasts as well as off Central America’s Pacific Coast. This mother was very determined to feed
her chick this large fish, but after about ten minutes of struggling she gave up and swallowed it.

Photo Essay l Galapagos Islands | 55

Galapagos Islands, ECUADOR

Galapagos sea lions and American oyster catchers.

Nazca boobies.

Swallow-tailed gulls and Galapagos sea lion.

Juvenile magnificent frigatebird. Magnificent frigatebird.

56 Globerovers · July 2018
 Galapagos sea lions.

Galapagos hawk. Blue-footed booby. Juvenile Nazca booby.

Photo Essay l Galapagos Islands | 57
Galapagos Islands, ECUADOR

Blue-footed boobies.

Galapagos sea lions.

58 Globerovers · July 2018

 Sally lightfoot crab.

Sally lightfoot crab.

Photo Essay l Galapagos Islands | 59

60 Globerovers · July 2018
 THE GIANT GALAPAGOS TORTOISE
The Galapagos Islands were named for their giant tortoises. Early explorers
called them “galapago”, the old Spanish word for saddle, due to the shape of
their shells. Since the early days about 100,000 to 200,000 of these giants
have been slaughtered for their meat and fat, which has lead to the extinction
of three species. Today, about 20,000 to 25,000 giant tortoises are still alive.

Photo Essay l Galapagos Islands | 61

Galapagos Islands, ECUADOR

Cactus at Tortuga Bay, Santa Cruz Island.

62 Globerovers · July 2018
 Roca Leon Dormido (Kicker Rock), San Cristobal Island.

Pinnacle Rock, Bartolome Island. Pinnacle Rock, Bartolome Island.

Photo Essay l Galapagos Islands | 63
 $ensible Travel Gear
GlobeRovers recommends purchasing your $ensible Travel Gear at Amazon.com

Tempur-Pedic Lumbar Cushion Lewis N. Clark Travel Door Alarm

Do you always have to stuff airline pillows Sleeping in hotels without
and blankets behind your back? Do you ar- secure door locks, or with win-
rive at your destination with a sore back? dows that can’t close properly?
For added peace of mind bring
Take along your own compact lower along this pocket-sized alarm. It
back cushion that helps maintain a is easily attached and removed
healthy posture and reduces the strain from doors or windows. When the
of sitting in economy class for long attached strings are moved, it trig-
periods. It is lightweight and includes gers a loud high-pitched sound with
a machine-washable cover. flashing LED lights to alert you.
Get at amazon.com Get at amazon.com

GoPro Hero 6 Black - 12MP / 30 fps burst 4k video Osprey Aether AG 70

The new GoPro Hero 6 camera is incredibly compact and easy to Internal Frame Backpack
use. You can even set it to start video If you are concerned about
recording the second you push the carrying heavy loads and not
power button. When mounted on your sweating like a dog, this back-
head or anywhere on your body, even pack is for you! It features
while doing action sports or diving, new innovative anti-gravity
you will easily forget it is there. technology with an incred-
ibly robust feature set.
It is waterproof up to 10 m (33 ft) The top lid converts into a
deep, and features HDR photos, touch zoom, and lots more. handy daybag!
Get at amazon.com Get at amazon.com

AirSelfie Pocket Size Drone Camera Yala Dreamsacks Travel Silk Sheets
You totally dislike You like to explore off-the-beaten-track destinations
selfie sticks, or you and are all-too-familiar with low budget accommo-
have one but want dation and low budget bed sheets? Times when
to ditch it? Then get you wish you were back in your own bed?
yourself a flying cam-
era. The AirSelfie is Bring along your own light-weight bed sheets for
a pocket-sized drone a lot of extra comfort and luxury. The Dream-
packed with a 12 MP sacks travel sheets add warmth and softness
camera and self-gen- and protect you against beds you don’t like to
erated Wi-Fi. Fly up to 20 m (65 ft) high and sleep in! Use as an extra layer in the bed or
capture those creative selfies that no arm or as a sleeping bag liner. It even has a pocket to
stick can deliver. Choose from three colours. cover your pillow.
Get at amazon.com Get at amazon.com

64 Globerovers · July 2018

65
 Aussie Loos
The Australian Amenities Adventure Tour

Marion Halliday is Red Nomad OZ,

author, blogger and Aussie traveller who
loves discovering nature based attractions
and activities – and scenic loos – all over
Australia.
Her Aussie travel expertise, photography
and the storytelling skills she developed in
corporate life come together in her Aussie
travel blog where the highlights (and low-
lights) of her many years of downunder travel
provide inspiration for other Aussie explorers.
amenities admiring in every Australian state
and territory, I should know, right?
Turning a simple Aussie holiday into an
adventure toilet tour is easy. Australia’s best
landmarks, vantage points and attractions
often have a loo close by. Luckily for us toilet
tragics, it’ll often come with a stunning view.
Or a superbly scenic setting. Or unusual
architecture or decoration, which means the
loo itself is the view.
Or, on a lucky day, all three!

T
he tide rolled in and the famous
Quobba Blowhole shot another
massive plume of spray high
into the air. The travellers below
me were getting a drenching.
Luckily the blowhole held their attention
as a gust of wind blew the dunny door wide
open, exposing me to the elements. If they’d
looked towards me they’d have got way more
than they bargained for!
Words & Photos by Marion Halliday
It was 2012, and I was eight years into an
All-Australian Top Toilet Adventure Tour.
At least that’s what it felt like sometimes.
Dunnies aren’t unique to Australia, but
when they’re combined with Aussie wildlife-,
landmark-, and sunset-watching, they’ll turn
your Aussie experience (and photos!) from
ordinary to extraordinary.
And after 25 years on the road and 14 years
of dunny detecting, convenience chasing and
Is this poo-patter or toilet-talk in bad
taste? I don’t think so! Downunder dunnies
become more important the older you get and
the further you travel. They also contribute to
increased hygiene, sanitation and preservation
of iconic Aussie landmark sites!
But they also add a whole new dimension
to my travels! Let me take you on a mini-tour
and show you what I mean.
Point Quobba, North of Carnarvon, West-
ern Australia
Back at the ancient wooden Aussie Loo
with its defective door I had a king-sized
view of heaving seas, cavorting whales and
fountains of spray as killer waves pounded the
wildest coastline in OZ.
And the raised platform underneath made
it snake proof. Didn’t it?

Mount Kosciuszko, Thredbo, New South Wales

Point Quobba, Western Australia.
Thrilling though it was to conquer my
first (and possibly only) Seven Summits peak,
the Kosciuszko Express Chairlift and gently
undulating purpose-built trail made the climb
almost too easy, even for a non-hard-core
hiker like me.
So the real thrill came at Rawson Pass
with just 1.67 km and 100 metres of eleva-
tion to go – and a view of Australia’s highest
mountain peak from its highest public toilet.
From Mount Kosciuszko’s peak, the bunker-

66 Globerovers · July 2018

like highest-little-loo-in-OZ not far below is There aren’t any murals in Innes National UN-Water World Toilet Day
unmissable! Park, centrepiece attraction of ‘the Yorke’, but After a blog series about Scenic Aussie
I bet the other Seven Summits peaks don’t the superb coastal scenery more than makes Public Toilets, a couple of loo calendars and
have the same attraction! up for it. And if you don’t spot an emu or a book – Aussie Loos with Views! – I thought
kangaroo while you’re there, don’t bother I’d established my loo-lover credentials. But
buying a lottery ticket because it’s clearly not embarrassingly, I’d never heard of November
Birdsville and Diamantina Development your lucky day! 19 aka World Toilet Day, or given thought to
Road Junction, Outback Queensland the nearly 2.4 billion people without a proper
Unless, like me, you count any day you
The challenge of dunny discovery is find a new killer scenic loo as lucky. toilet, or the nearly 1 billion with no toilet.
especially important when road-tripping the
vast distances between Aussie Outback at-
tractions, as a lapse in concentration can end
in disaster. Even at designated ‘rest stops’ the
loos are few and far between so crossing your
legs becomes a way of life.
And that’s just what we expected to keep
doing at a remote, windswept crossroad on
the dusty plains of Outback Queensland
1,300 km from Brisbane, 1,700 km from
Sydney and 1,400 km from Adelaide. Finding
amenities at this junction between Bedourie,
Windorah and Birdsville – otherwise known
as ‘the middle of nowhere’ – was pretty
unlikely.
But to our surprise, leg-crossing (or its
West Cape loo and view, Innes
nasty cousin ‘the squat’) wasn’t required here. National Park, South Australia.
Because at this lonely landmark I found the
Little Loo at the End of the Universe!
In the Book
St or e

The little loo at the end of the universe,

Birdsville Rd, Queensland.

Yorke Peninsula and Innes National Park,

South Australia
After the Outback’s dearth of dunnies, it’s
virtually impossible to avoid finding a loo
almost anywhere along the Yorke Peninsula’s
485 km of coastline.
It’s such a sure thing that you can easily
discover the surfing and swimming beaches,
fishing and crabbing hot spots, hiking trails,
rocky cliffs and stunning coastal scenery of
South Australia’s best kept secret holiday hot
spot just by checking out the conveniences.
No time? No problem! Just head for the
nearest mural and there’ll probably be a loo
behind it!

Contribution l Australia | 67
 I became an amenities advocate when I
compared the horrifying worldwide statistics
with 10 of Australia’s coolest conveniences
(like this one on Lord Howe Island) – and I
realised we’d won the loo-lottery with superb
scenery, good sanitation and inventive archi-
tecture.
Lord Howe Island
Tasman Sea.
Standing in three states at once, playing
the Tri-State Golf Course, or stocking up in
the famous roadhouse are all very well. But
my favourite Corner attraction is the view of
the iconic 3-state junction from the road-
house loo!
Lake Bellfield, Grampians, Victoria
In the remote areas of arid Australia,
home and public toilets were often built out-
side with whatever materials were at hand.
Water was way too precious to squander on
indoor plumbing! So a lot of downunder
dunnies haven’t survived the ravages of
weather, wind and water.
However, the combination loo/picnic
shelter/information centre/viewing deck
constructed in 1966 when Fyans Creek was
dammed to form Lake Bellfield, raised the
standard for outdoor dunny design – it’s sur-
vived some cataclysmic weather events, too.
Over the years I’ve explored many re-

Mount Wellington, Hobart and Bruny

Island, Tasmania
Nowhere more so than atop Tasmania’s
Mt Wellington where a glass wall is the only
thing between you and the staggering scenery
in the architect-designed amenities block.
Unless you’ve closed the cubicle door to
protect your modesty!
If Hobart’s most popular attraction is too
civilised, take the short ferry ride to Bruny
Island – same size as Singapore but with 600 View of the dunny down below in the
residents to Singapore’s 6,000,000 – where Neck Car Park, Bruny Island, Tasmania.
the natural attractions are wild, full of wild-
life and way less crowded.
The stunning view along ‘the Neck’
with the ocean on one side and the
D’Entrecasteaux Channel on the other is
worth the climb, but add a strategically
placed, eco-friendly loo in the car park
below and the landscape becomes peculiarly
Australian.

Cameron Corner, Junction of New South

Wales, Queensland and South Australia
The only place in the world where three
Australian states meet puts Cameron Corner
on every serious Outback road-tripper’s
bucket list. It’s a six-hour drive north from
Adelaide to Broken Hill; then four hours
north to Tibooburra – hottest place in
New South Wales. Too many road hazard
variables like dust, potholes, claypans, rocks,
wildlife and other vehicles make it impos-
sible to estimate travel time for the last 140
km leg northwest to the Corner.
View from the loo to Cameron Corner where New
Especially if it’s been raining! South Wales, Queensland and South Australia meet.

68 Globerovers · July 2018

markable peaks, hiking trails, historic sites
and waterways in the Grampians National
Park, so taking the easy 1 km (return) walk
across Lake Bellfield’s dam wall to view the
loo wasn’t a priority. But when I finally got
there, the views to and from the loo made it
the Grampians most scenic.
As an added bonus, the view of the loo
and surrounds is even more spectacular from
nearby Boronia Peak!
Victoria River, via Timber Creek, Northern
Territory
Bad weather isn’t the only hazard an Aus-
sie dunny sometimes has to withstand.
After a couple of hours into a 70 km river
trip and a few drinks while admiring the
sunset, I wondered whether I’d make it back
to base without a comfort stop. But where
do you go when nature calls and you’re on a
crocodile cruise in the middle of Australia’s
wildest river?
Luckily, the purpose-built pontoon had
enough reinforced steel to survive an attack
by Victoria River crocodiles up to six metres
long – and that makes it a loo with one of the
most unique views downunder!
Since my first ever Scenic Loo photo
of the Kata Tjuta car park conveniences in
2004, I’ve had a love affair with the rugged
scenery and iconic landmarks that make the
Northern Territory public loos so memo-
rable.
So when this amazing Aussie adventure
turned into an amazing new dunny discovery
in the tiny, Top End town of Timber Creek, I
figured it was no ‘accident’.
Aussie Amenities Adventures – YOUR turn!
Still reading? Then you’re probably either
a closet or full-blown toilet tragic like me!
It’s been 14 years and thousands of road-trip
kilometres since my first Aussie Loo photo,
and I’m still discovering new loo views and
adventures off the tourist trail in Australia’s
intriguing destinations, landscapes and at-
tractions.
All you need to plan your own Dow-
nunder Dunny Adventure Tour is a sense
of adventure, a copy of Australia’s quirkiest
travel guide – Aussie Loos With Views! – and
a pair of dunny goggles!
Marion Halliday blogs as
“Australia by Red Nomad OZ” at
www.redzaustralia.com.
Follow Marion @rednomadoz on Twitter,
Google +, Pinterest, Linked, and Flickr.
Facebook: RedzAustralia.
Buy her book: “Aussie Loos with Views!” at
Amazon.com, eBay and at
www.exploreaustralia.net.au
Victoria River crocodile-cruise loo.
Timber Creek, Northern Territory.
Contribution l Australia | 69
 Article

Myanmar
Wa Ale Island
The unspoiled beach at the Wa Ale Island Resort on
the Island of Wa Ale is home to nesting turtles. Sunsets
over the beach are incredible.

70 Globerovers · July 2018

Myanmar’s Myeik Archipelago
Undiscovered and off-limits to tourists for a long time, this is what awaits you: An archi-
pelago surrounded by brilliant azure sea waters dotted with hundreds of remote islands
with pristine white-sand beaches lined with palm trees and covered in abundant wildlife in

L
dense jungle. Swim amongst spectacular marine life, untouched corals, and seashells.

et your mind go wild for a moment that covers approximately 36,000 square kilome-
and just imagine this… You are tres (13,900 square miles) and lies in the Anda-
transposed to a location on planet man Sea off the Tanintharyi Region’s coast in the
earth described as: “Nature’s unex- extreme south of Myanmar.
plored lost kingdom where nobody knows all the The Tanintharyi Region encompasses the long
species that live in the dense jungle and in the narrow southern part of the country known as the
turquoise waters. A pristine paradise of primal Kra Isthmus. It borders the Andaman Sea to the
seclusion which is irresistibly lovely, and one of west, and the 1,700 km (1,056 mi) long Tenasser-
the last few paradises on earth. Here everything is im mountain range, beyond which lies Thailand,
alive, even the shells are crawling”.  to the east. To the north is Myanmar’s Mon State,
Wake up and stop dreaming. Its real! You are and to the south is Thailand and the idyllic Thai
in Myanmar’s Myeik Archipelago!  islands of Surin and Similan.
This is the place for adventure dreamers to The archipelago lies in a 400 km (248 mi) long
make their dreams north-south scatter-
come true. This is a The Myeik Archipelago ranks in beauty among ing across the An-
place for explorers. daman Sea, in
A place for those the Seychelles, Maldives, Tahiti, Bora Bora tropical waters where
who are yearning for (French Polynesia), and Hawaii’s Lanikai Beach. temperatures are
destinations that still consistently pleas-
remain untouched, immaculate, and unspoiled by ant with average lows between 20-24°C (68-75°F)
mass tourism. This is a place where tourism is a and average highs ranging between 28-33°C
brand-new terminology. (82-91°F). These are ideal conditions for tropical
Known as the Myeik or Mergui Archipel- wildlife to thrive, both in the sea and on land.
ago, this name is as confusing as the country’s The archipelago consists of more than 800
name. In their effort to erase some of the remain- scattered islands mainly composed of limestone
ing reminders of their former colonial rulers, the and granite. They vary in size from small jag-
military government changed the country’s name ged rocky outcrops to large islands many miles
from Burma to Myanmar, together with many in diameter. 
other colonial-era names, including the Mergui Most of the islands are covered in evergreen
Archipelago which became the Myeik Archi- forests and very dense jungles that drop into
pelago. While both the colonial name and the the turquoise waters, interrupted only by bril-
Myanmar names are still used interchangeably, it liant white powder-soft sandy beaches and rocky
is more correct to refer to it as the Myeik Archi- headlands. Some of the islands have tidal rivers
pelago. and are fringed by large mangrove forests where
The Myeik Archipelago is an immense area fish and other small creatures flourish. The islands
Article l Myanmar | 71
Myanmar

are surrounded by a coral reef and beds of money” ransom in the form of blue-white
seagrass that add to its diverse fauna and diamonds worth £100 million on an island
flora. The majority of islands remain unin- off the coast of Burma. 
habited and untouched, except for some of Another early historical event that
the larger islands which are home to small placed the region in the Australian news-
communities of Burmese fishermen and papers was back on November 8, 1935.
the Moken people. Air pioneer Sir Charles Edward Kingsford
Smith and his co-pilot John Thomp-
son “Tommy” Pethybridge flew the Lock-
HISTORY OF THE ARCHIPELAGO
heed Altair monoplane named “Lady
While the archipelago, at least for now, Southern Cross” overnight from Alla-
remains undeveloped and almost unnoticed habad, India, to Singapore in their attempt
by the world, it has an interesting history. to break the England-to-Australia speed
Centuries ago the port at the mainland record. Sadly they perished in the area.
was an essential stopover for European An intensive search failed to find them
trading ships crossing the Malay Peninsula alive, or to recover their bodies. Eighteen
on their way to reach the city of Ayutthaya, months later, Burmese fishermen found
capital of Siam, now Thailand. Talking the landing gear from their plane which
about ancient Siam, it has been reported washed ashore at Aye Island to the north.
that the Myeik Archipelago’s indigenous The Myeik Archipelago undoubt-
Moken people, the so-called “sea-gypsies”, edly has a rich history unknown to most of
are the ones who introduced the people of the world. Most stories remain untold.
Siam to brown cowrie shells. Cowrie shells
were used by the Siamese as their currency,
centuries before they started to mint coins. 
During the days when Burma was
ruled by British India, some of the islands Through The Eyes Of Captain W.E. Johns
were named after captains of the empire,
such as the islands of Great Swinton and In the 1946 book “Biggles Delivers the Goods” written by Captain W.E. Johns,
Lord Loughborough. Some were even the eponymous goggled hero flies over the Burmese coast and the Andaman Sea as
called Cocks Comb Island, Bushby Island he conquers the Japanese.
and the Alladin Islands.
Creative naming seems to have come This is how he describes what he sees below him:
to an end, so we are left with islands with
name tags such as “Island No.115”.  “To the right, the horizon was defined by a long dark stain that was the forest-clad hinter-
land of Lower Burma. Below the aircraft, like a string of green beads dropped carelessly
on blue velvet, were the islands of the archipelago, lonely, untouched by civilisation, each
Several of author W.E. Johns’ books hiding beneath its tangle of jungle, a wealth of
of the 50’s and 60’s make reference animal, bird, and reptile life, which a stranger to
to “Burma”, often mentioning the the tropics would from a distance have suspected.”

“Mergui Archipelago”.
He continues with:
Most, if not all of the islands in the My- “…the forests provided a secure retreat for
eik Archipelago, were officially off-limits to elephants, tigers, rhinoceroses, panthers, wild pigs,
foreigners for decades, until 1997 when the crocodiles, snakes of many kinds - including the
first dive operators from Thailand negoti- venomous cobra and the huge python - and insects
ated limited access to selected dive spots.  in countless myriads”.
For years this part of the world enjoyed
scant international media coverage, except
for a few mentions such as in Captain W.E. He describes the sea below him:
Johns’ “Biggles” air adventure books.  “In the turquoise water that separated the islands
In the 1965 James Bond movie from the mainland, seeming from above so
“Thunderball”, the ruthless Persian cat- innocent of danger, lurked marine monsters of un-
petting Ernst Stavro Blofeld demands a believable size and horror - shark, octopus and the
vast ransom in diamonds. The British giant decapod.”
government then plans to drop the “blood

72 Globerovers · July 2018

PEOPLE OF THE MYEIK ARCHIPELAGO rather than fishermen as they do not use their population is growing. The current Mo-
Guarding this paradise are indigenous nets. The men use three-pronged spears to ken population is estimated to be between
people of Malayo-Polynesian descent, hunt big fish spotted from their boats, 2,000 and 3,000, increasingly corralled into
an Austronesian subgroup of people. Meet while women dive to the bottom of the small permanent villages on the islands. 
the Moken, as they call themselves, or sea to collect a variety of molluscs and sea Spread over the archipelago, about 400
Salone, as they are referred to in Myanmar. urchins with their bare hands. They are live within Lampi Marine National Park
They are known by the Thais as the Chao also known to collect sea cucumbers at low in the villages of Makyone Galet, Nyaung
Lay. They are also referred to as the “Sea tide, often as deep as 10 to 12 m. Wee and Ko Phawt. 
Gypsies” or “Sea They are made to live like fish out of
Nomads” and In the myths of the nomadic Moken seafarers, who have water while large trawlers and squid boats
described in infringe on their territories. The Moken
the romantic
lived here for about 4,000 years, the islands broke off
can’t compete with these large boats for
lexicon of West- from the mainland following a great mythological flood. the limited resources. The seas they pre-
ern writers as sided over for centuries are now getting
a quasi-amphibious race living in a tropical Sometimes they embark on multi-day busy, even though the Myanmar govern-
paradise. fishing trips in search of food, though ment is trying to control the influx of
The Moken seafaring people have the trend seems to be shorter trips which foreign boats. As they are threatened by
lived among these islands, undisturbed is due to a decrease in the number of the competition for fish resources by large
their traditional Moken big houseboats, fishing boats, it is not clear how they will
for centuries, and are one of Myanmar’s
called kabang. These days the govern- live a sustainable existence. They likely
most distinct ethnic groups. Living a
ment does not allow them to cut the will turn to the lucrative influx of tourists
rather nomadic sea-based life, these people
thickest trees needed to construct these ka- and abandon their traditional lifestyles.
have adapted themselves to the water over
bangs. They increasingly use smaller dug-

“
many hundreds of years. Traditionally
out canoes and row close to the coastline
they have lived on the seas in their house- in search of fish and other food items
boats for months on end and made season- harvested from the water and on land. 
The Moken people like privacy
al migrations. They are the masters of free
While the Moken believe one should
and do not like meeting with
diving, and while holding their breaths for
a very long time, they are able to perfectly
not be greedy and only take from the sea many people"
Moken interpreter
what you need, they also believe that re-
focus their vision under water.
sources are infinite.
When living on land during the rough
As they have traditionally moved from As we visited a typical Moken village
monsoon season, they build their huts
one island to another and kept their popula- on a remote island, we found several stalls
close to shore so they can constantly moni- tion numbers small, resources could easily selling foods and candies, much of it pack-
tor the sea and their boats.  replenish. However, as they now tend to aged individually in plastic. Lots of locally
They are considered hunter-gatherers move less and remain in established villages, produced dried fish are also available.
Article l Myanmar | 73
Myanmar
The customers are Moken who now have
settled down permanently on land, as well
as Burmese from nearby islands or even
from the mainland. Sections of the village
paths are carpeted with discarded glass,
plastics and cans, though the beach itself is
fairly free of litter.
The kids are friendly and very wel-
coming to foreign visitors, though some
gasp in shock. Perhaps they have never
seen white people. Their faces are painted
almost comically with the typical Burmese
thanaka, a yellowish-white paint made
from ground bark. Several young kids were
rolling in the powdery white sand and then
ran off to play with a small wooden boat in
the clear turquoise waters. They really do
seem very much at home in the water and
I can believe these kids can swim before
they can walk.
“I'm quite amazed by the
cleanliness of the waters right at
the edge of the village. Crystal
clear indeed."
Some adults smoke the locally rolled
green-coloured cheroots, a potent Bur-
mese cigar, as they lazily sit outside their
homes and shops gossiping about the
latest news. Some are happy to see foreign
visitors while others seem to be noncha-
lant or even aloof. Babies casually sway in
small hammocks hanging between palm
74 Globerovers · July 2018
trees and on the small verandas of the stilt-
ed adobe homes. Life is truly very peaceful
here and fits my image of life on a small
remote tropical island.
British photographer Cat Vinton,
who spent several weeks in 2009 aboard
a kabang documenting a Moken fam-
ily, wrote that she was amazed by “their
nomadic free spirit, their lack of a routine,
their knowledge of the sea and the jungle,
their love of nature, their raw energy, their
smiles and their hearts”. She continues
with “their nomadic life is spent wander-
ing around the islands as hunter-gatherers;
they are the sea gypsies, floating nomads,
living on ancient-designed, roofed boats
called kabangs. These elusive people are
born, live and die at sea. The Moken chil-
dren can swim before they can walk. Their
philosophy focuses on pride in the face of
scarcity. Kabangs symbolise the ownership
of nothing”.
However, the lives of the Moken have
changed significantly over recent years
and are set to change even more as these
islands are increasingly opening up to
outsiders and tourists!  planet!"
OPENING UP
Since the end of World War II,
dangerous sea pirates and Myanmar’s
military dictatorship have kept unwanted
outsiders away from this beautiful part of
the world.  tourism infrastructure, even basic means
The region’s decades-long isolation
and the absence of tourism meant that
this large uninhabited archipelago re-
mained one of the world’s best kept natural
environments not tainted by property
developments and the destruction caused
by mass tourism. 
The white sand beaches that rim the
steep jungled interiors stand as empty
as neighbouring Thailand must have been
about 50 years ago. But for a few intrepid
travellers, this was the best travel secret
waiting to be discovered at the right time.
Fortunately, Myanmar’s military
government started lifting some travel
bans into the area in 1997, while keeping
very strict regulations in place. When op-
position leader and activist Aung San Suu
Kyi joined the government, it became
politically and morally acceptable among
international travellers to visit Myanmar,
hence a further push to open up the area
to tourism.
“These beaches never have
footprints. I'm alone on this
Today, the vast majority of islands
remain undiscovered by tourists with
many of them inhabited only by colour-
ful wildlife and the odd fishing village.
While tourism has been on the increase
since the late 1990’s, the lack of any kind of
of transport and lodging, resulted in only
a couple of dozen visitors to the entire
area each month mainly via chartered
yachts and live-aboard diving operators
from Thailand or Indonesia. However, the
region is poised for change as the almighty
tourist dollars are knocking on the door!
CHANGE OF TIME
As the Myanmar government’s per-
mit policy continues to slowly loosen,
more tourist vessels have been setting sail
among these islands. A few resorts have
been constructed on some of the unspoilt
islands, and so have golf courses and even
a casino!  porters claim that 90% of the coral reefs on
Recently some media even proclaimed:
“The end of a way of life: Burmese islands
- that are home to 2,000 sea gypsies - set
to be turned into a ‘new Phuket’ with 30
hotels and a casino”. With the government
having their eyes on the lucrative income
from tourism, one of the planet’s most
unspoilt destinations is possibly under
serious threat.  Myeik Archipelago to construct hotels.
It has recently been reported that
about 2,000 tourists visited the region by
boat between October and May when sea
conditions are most favourable. Some re-
a famous island, Cocks Comb, have been
damaged by the uncontrolled influx of
visitors during the past two years. Appar-
ently Chinese and Thai tourists comprise
the majority of visitors to this island. 
In early 2018 it was reported that the
Myanmar Investment Commission has
given permission to six properties in the
However, for now, they only permit tour-
ism on 12 of the over 800 islands in the
archipelago. Things are sure to change, and
we can only hope that the protection of the
islands and marine life will be priority.
Article l Myanmar | 75
Myanmar

THE ISLANDS
From flying high above, or just looking
at a map of the Myeik Archipelago, the
many islands appear to form three vague
strings or columns, strung down over
many miles. The inner string is closest
to the coast while a vast scattering forms
the middle column. The outer string of
isles, furthest from the coast, remains even
more undiscovered.  The park is rich in biodiversity with
With so many islands in varying siz-
es, there are many pristine sandy beaches,
most as yet unnamed.  After living on their boats for a long
Lampi is home to the National Wild
Life and Marine Park which was estab-
lished in 1994 and declared an ASEAN
Heritage Park in 2003. The park covers
a group of islands in the Myeik Archi-
pelago, is the only marine national park in
Myanmar, and protects a rich biodiversity
of over 1,000 species of animals, plants and
marine life. 
195 evergreen plant species and 63 plants
associated with its vast mangrove for-
ests. There are 228 bird species, 19 of
which are classified as “a threatened spe-
cies”, including the plain-pouched hornbill
water or tea along with traditional Mo-
ken food. Buy dried cuttlefish and watch
the men building dugout canoes as their
ancestors did centuries ago.
Sit back and see life go by in a small
island community.
Towards the end of the dry season
around February, the “Salone Festival” is
held in the village to mark the annual mi-
gration of the fisherman from living on the
sea to the islands as the monsoon season
approaches.
time, they now return to the safety of the

“
and the Wallace hawk eagle. The park
The beach. The word doesn't is also home to 10 amphibians and 19
quite conjure the perfection of reptile species, three species of sea turtles,
and 19 species of small, medium and large
the place, of sand so fine it felt mammals. Furthermore, surveys have
reported 42 species of fish, 42 crabs, 50 sea
like flour between my toes." snails and sea slugs, 41 bivalve molluscs, 35
CNN, Condé Nast Traveler
sea-cucumbers, 73 seaweeds, 11 seagrass,
and 333 species of plankton.
Among these are many globally threat-
Common features of the islands are ened species. Some of the most incredible
the turquoise waters and pristine white creatures on and around the island are
beaches skirting the heavily forested inte- the loggerhead and green sea turtles, the
riors, untouched by any significant human Sunda pangolin and the dugong.
intervention.  hunt wild pigs with their dogs and kill wild
Some of the activities include canoe-
Taking a closer look at the islands, you ing among the mangroves and on the two
will see stretches of mangroves and white- perennial rivers on the west side of the
sand beaches that are interspersed with island where the best-conserved mangrove
rocky headlands, tidal creeks and some forests are to be found, and hiking in the
freshwater rivers. jungle, even though there are not yet any
While the beauty is comparable to official hiking trails.
the scatterings of the Maldivian Islands, Observing the sea turtles at their nest-
the Maldives is half sunken atolls while ing sites from January to March and spot-
islands to escape the choppy waters and
occasional stormy seas. During the festival,
they will perform animal sacrifices, tra-
ditional and spiritual dances, diving and
rowing competitions, and perform uplift-
ing folk songs.
You will also be treated with a tradi-
tional Moken feast of curries, tea leaf salad,
rice, and fresh fish to further demonstrate
their fascinating way of life.
While fishing is too dangerous during
the monsoon season, they live off the wild-
life on the islands by setting up snares to
catch the tiny lesser mouse deer. They also
birds with slingshots.
The festival was created by the govern-
ment to promote tourism to the area, so
not everybody will find it authentic and in
the spirit of the Moken people.

“The beach was fringed with

the Myeik Archipelago looks more ting the babies hatching from the eggs and
like rock formations that shot out of the dashing into the rolling waves is a spec-
seabed towards the sky. tacle not to be missed. 
With way too many islands to discuss Visit the traditional Moken villages turquoise water, with the dry and
here, let us just talk about Lampi, the long where houses are built on stilts and join
L-shaped island, Bo Cho Island at the
powdery white sand full of white
them for diving and snorkelling in the
southernmost tip of Lampi, and Wa Ale, pristine waters of the Andaman Sea. shells and little white crabs busily
its small neighbouring island at its most
western edge.
scurrying backward and forward.
BO CHO ISLAND Farther from the shore, tiny balls
The village of Ma Kyone Galet, located
LAMPI ISLAND of sand were arranged in geomet-
on Bo Cho Island across a narrow chan-
Lampi Island lies almost 20 km off the nel at the southernmost tip of Lampi ric patterns around little holes
mainland of Myanmar, at a similar latitude Island, has a number of Moken res-
as Phnom Penh, the Cambodian capital. idents permanently settled in houses built
made by sand crabs.."
The island is one of the largest at about 48 Yvonne Gordon
on stilts. The long curved beach at the vil-
km long and about 5 km wide and looks lage is lined with palm trees and the shore Award-winning travel writer
like an L-shaped boomerang with a short is laden with wooden fishing boats. Here
western side. Its highest hills are 150 to 220 you will find a Buddhist monastery with
metres above the surrounding seas.  friendly monks. Enjoy some fresh coconut
76 Globerovers · July 2018
WA ALE ISLAND Wa Ale Island is part of the vast Lampi creatively constructed with local materials
Marine National Park, an ASEAN Marine including river stones and reclaimed wood
Arguably one of the most beautiful
Heritage site. The island is known for its to minimise its impact on the surrounding
islands of the archipelago is the quaint
pristine kilometre-long dazzling white- environment.
island of Wa Ale at the most western edge
of Lampi Island.  sand beaches, flanked by rocky cliffs, and The Resort’s 11 luxury tented beach
backed by lush evergreen jungles. villas and three treetop villas overlook the
The 9,000 acre Wa Ale
Island can be described as beautiful beaches at its doorsteps.
an annexe of Lampi Island
No roads, no resorts, no sun loungers or umbrellas, no The restaurant serves Asian-
with a 220 metres wide man-made structures of any kind, just raw nature. Though Mediterraneantop British chef,
cuisine created by a
using ingredients
channel (Salet Galet cove)
that separates Kyunn Tann this paradise is going to change! coming from the resort’s organic
Shey on Lampi with Wa Ale garden and local fishermen who
Island. This cove is a popular anchor to the Its crystal clear deep turquoise waters are strictly required to use sustainable fish-
fishing boats in 10 to 12 metres waters and teem with wildlife, including whale sharks, ing methods. 
popular among the Moken people, particu- dolphins, dugongs, turtles and manta rays. Recreational activities on offer
larly during periods of turbulent weather. The shores are ideal for snorkelling the include snorkelling and scuba diving,
The cove is also home to a small communi- reefs, and paddle boarding or kayaking paddle boarding and kayaking through the
ty of Moken people settled on a tiny island. through the mangroves. mangroves, long hikes through the dense
Along the shores of Wa Ale are dense The only accommodation on Wa Ale jungle, and relaxation on the white-sand
mangrove forests with inlets perfect for Island is the brand-new Wa Ale Island beaches.
kayaking. Resort. The entire luxury resort was Wa Ale Island Resort is truly stunning!

Article l Myanmar | 77
 A luxury resort amidst untouched islands - Endless Memorable Experiences
Staring at the website I read: “Savour our
kitchen’s farm-to-table dining prepared from fresh
produce harvested from our chef’s garden and
fresh seafood caught daily from the archipelago”
and “This intimate island retreat sits in a beautiful
protected cove with luxury tented beach villas over-
looking a pristine beach and majestic rock forma-
tions”. When my eye caught: “A sparsely inhabited,
unspoiled, undiscovered archipelago consisting of
no less than 800 heavy forested islands, fringed with
mangroves and sandy white beaches where your
footprints will be the only prints for days to come”, I
was immediately sold.
Myanmar is one of the top 122 countries I have
photographed, and unspoiled islands are close to
my heart! Tourism is a brand-new term here!
My first contact at Wa Ale Island Resort was
Alyssa Wyatt, and I could feel her island-inspired
energy in every email!
I approached the Wa Ale luxurious yacht at the
jetty of Kawthaung. Alyssa, literally bouncing and
leaping towards me, threw her arms around me to
welcome me to Wa Ale! What a great, energetic first
introduction! The three-hour luxury boat ride past
countless islands overgrown with evergreen primary
forests was pleasant. Tasty snacks, frosty white and
cool red wine, and fresh tropical fruits hinted at
what was yet to come.
On arrival at Wa Ale cove, well-dressed staff
were waiting with both ice-cold drinks and wet face
towels. On the jetty, elegantly constructed from
reclaimed wood, I met Chris, the resort owner. I felt
instantly at ease with him. Our first stop was the
main pavilion, a masterpiece of stone and wood-
work, also constructed from reclaimed materials.
Chris explained: “the philosophy is to emphasize
conservation and be committed to giving back to the
surrounding environment and local communities”.
The entire resort is constructed mostly with re-
claimed materials from old houses, boats, and even
the odd piece that washed up from the sea. All is
beautifully and luxuriously done! Not your average
resort, it sure took vision to create, and with such
panache!
Sponsored Accommodation
REVIEW
78 Globerovers · July 2018
Dining is normally a set menu served in the im- swimming, surfing, visiting the tiny villages of the
pressive open-air pavilion with the sight and sound of friendly Moken (“Sea Gypsies”) and Burmese fishing
the breaking waves just a few steps away. Ray, a bril- communities, and more. The fauna and flora in the
liant and creative chef, truly impressed me with his Myeik Archipelago remain pristine as this area was
healthy blend of Asian and Mediterranean flavours. off limits to foreign visitors for decades! Swimming
He proudly served his Myeik Prawn bisque: at nearby Turtle Beach and the kilometre-long Hon-
“a bisque that is inspired by the classic European eymoon Beach is sheer bliss!
style bisque made with a rich prawn stock of fresh The resort offers the main pavilion with open-air
local Myeik prawns”. After slow cooking the stock, beach restaurant & bar, a river cafe & bar, a dive &
the bisque is finished off with a splash of Cognac, activities centre, a spa, exercise facility, and a game
tomato, and cream giving a smooth, elegant and & recreation centre.
slightly sweet taste.
If you have the choice of only one get-away from
His “Wa Ale 7-hour Curry”, his version of a Beef everything, the Wa Ale Island Resort is it!
Balti, one of his favourite curries made from beef
rump, is marinated overnight in a house-spice blend
of cardamom, cinnamon, cumin, coriander and
Myanmar turmeric. It is then seared and cooked
with local coconut and yoghurt for seven hours until
tender and coated in a rich, aromatic sauce. Topped
with toasted almonds and fresh coriander, this is an
amazing dish.
For dessert, Ray served us a Lime Leaf Panna Cot-
ta: “our version of Panna Cotta, using coconut milk
which we infuse with kaffir lime leaves”. This dessert
is light, creamy and floral. To add a crunch it is served
with a lime shortbread or coconut sugar biscuit. I
could stay here just for the food, and the free-flow-
ing excellent wines and locally grown coffee.
Located inside the Lampi Marine National Park,
the focus is on eco-friendly construction, alternative
energy sources and eco-friendly water supply and
sewage systems. The resort supports Sea Turtle Con-
servation and Coral Protection and donates to educa-
tion and medical programs for the local community.
There are several turtle nests, the resort their guard-
ian, right in front of the tented beach villas.
When the sun and clear skies return this coming
October, the resort will be ready for the first guests.
Once the eleven luxury state-of-the-art tented
beach villas and two treetop villas are completed,
this luxury resort will be top-notch. The treetop
villas amidst a canopy of trees blend into the lush
tropical beach environment. Managed by Alyssa and
hubby Ray, an award-winning chef, supported by
their incredible local staff, this is going to be one of
the loveliest little paradises you have ever seen.
Activities on offer are almost endless: snorkel-
ling, scuba diving, paddle boating, kayaking, hiking
through the thick jungle, bird spotting, boating,
 MYEIK ARCHIPELAGO, MYANMAR

AN UNTOUCHED PARADISE
WAITING TO BE DISCOVERED
Wa Ale Island Resort... the world’s first luxury resort to open in the
Myeik (Mergui) Archipelago in March 2018! Discover the remote,
pristine paradise that is Wa Ale. Dive the emerald green Andaman
Sea, kayak or paddle board through the lush mangroves, walk
along the deserted beaches and encounter a paradise like no
other. Wa Ale Island Resort, a true experience for the senses.

We invite you to experience the

ultimate in barefoot luxury...

www.waaleresort.com

Article l Myanmar | 79
Myanmar

THE WILDLIFE CONSERVATION SOCIETY

By Colin Poole, Regional Director, Greater Mekong, Wildlife Conservation Society

The New York-based Wildlife Conservation So- has long supported the conservation of the last
ciety (WCS) has worked to conserve wildlife and dolphins of the Ayeyarwady River which are now
wildlands in Myanmar since 1993. One of the first slowly making a comeback after years of decline.
expeditions carried out by local and international A key component of their long-term recovery is
WCS scientists at that time was to Lampi Island, the role of well-managed dolphin tourism that
which led to the creation of Lampi Island Marine contributes to the livelihoods of local villagers
National Park in 1996. and the management of the protected area.
Such ecotourism is critical to the future financial
In late 2015 Dr Steve Platt from WCS www.
wcs.org and Dr Kalyar Platt from the Turtle Surviv- sustainability of rural communities and protected
al Alliance Myanmar Program www.turtlesurvival. areas across Myanmar, and WCS is working with
org returned to Lampi Island, with the support of the Lampi Foundation to promote appropriate
the Lampi Foundation, to reassess the importance models where tourists directly contribute to the
of the island’s beaches for nesting sea turtles, to well-being of both local people and the environ-
establish the island’s first turtle hatchery and to ment.
train Wa Ale Resort staff, national park staff and
WCS saves wildlife and wild places worldwide
local community wardens in turtle conservation
through science, conservation action, education,
and managing the hatchery.
and inspiring people to value nature. Over the
This program has been extremely successful. past century, WCS has committed a long-term
Sea turtle nests are located, fenced, and guarded conservation presence in the last wild places
against people and predators such as macaques across more than 65 countries, working with
and monitor lizards. While in past years, nearly local partners to protect these last wild places
100% of the nests on the island were collected because they are intact, biodiverse, most resilient
by poachers, now, almost every nest survives to to climate change, and bastions for large, iconic
produce hatchlings. Most of the nesting turtles wildlife species.
are Green Turtles and Hawksbill Turtles. How-
In Asia, WCS works from the forests of Russian
ever, most surprisingly in late 2016 a Leatherback
Far East to the coral reefs of Papua New Guinea
Turtle was observed coming out to lay eggs on
and the mountains of Afghanistan. In South-east
a Lampi beach and two months later five young
Asia, among other successful initiatives, WCS has
hatchlings emerged from the nest. This is the first
confirmed nesting of this globally threatened worked together with governments and local

ocean giant in Myanmar for over 100 years. partners to recover colonies of endangered large
waterbirds – storks, pelicans and ibises – around
Elsewhere across Myanmar WCS is working the Tonle Sap Great Lake of Cambodia, and to
with government agencies and local communities restore a healthy tiger population in the West-
to promote sustainable use of forests and other
ern Forest Complex of Thailand adjacent to the
natural resources and to secure protected areas
Myanmar border.
for future generations. In Mandalay Region, WCS

80 Globerovers · July 2018

CONSERVATION
UNESCO recently examined the My-
eik Archipelago as a tentative World Heri-
tage Site for its biodiversity, and its report
concludes with:
“The Myeik Archipelago contains most
of Myanmar’s coral reef, along with some of
its best-preserved mangrove forests, lowland
evergreen forests, and seagrass meadows,
and forms an ecological system of outstand-
ing biodiversity and integrity. Surveys have
recorded 50 globally threatened plants and
animals in the Lampi Marine National
Park alone, including 20 dipterocarp spe-
cies, three species of sea turtles, dugong,
and a variety of fish, coral, sea cucumbers,
and other marine species. The Myeik Archi-
pelago is large enough to support landscape
species like the plain-pouched hornbill and
maintain the full suite of ecological and
evolutionary processes.”  leatherback turtles, and is instrumental in
While it is too early to determine what
long-term prospects are for this fragile
ecosystem, hopefully, the increasing interest
in ecotourism will provide enough incentive
for the local authorities to take action and
protect the fauna and flora of the reefs and
islands before it is too late.
Fortunately the Wa Ale Island Resort has
committed themselves as the guardians of
Wa Ale Island, including the protection of its
population of nesting green-, hawksbill- and
the creation and funding of the Lampi Foun-
dation, in partnership with Global Medical
Volunteers and The Wildlife Conservation
Society (WCS).

THE LAMPI FOUNDATION

To help fund social welfare and conservation

projects in and around the Lampi Island Marine
National Park, the Lampi Foundation was founded
by Christopher and Farina Kingsley. According to
their website:
“the Foundation is funded through efforts
of the Wa Ale Island Resort and other part-
ner contributions including: Global Medical
Volunteers and The Wildlife Conservation
Society. Through eco-tourism, Wa Ale Island
Resort pledges to annually donate 20% of net
profits and 2% of room revenue from Wa Ale
Island Resort to the Lampi Foundation. It is Wa
Ale Island Resorts’ commitment to help pre-
serve and protect the Lampi Marine National
Park under the guidance of the Myanmar
government with the hope to set a precedent
for future tourism projects in the Myeik Archi-
pelago”.

The Foundation built the first sea turtle hatchery

in Lampi Marine National Park with the support of
the Wildlife Conservation Society and the Ministry
of Environmental Conservation and Forestry of
the Union of Myanmar. 

The Lampi Foundation has empowered local

villagers to safeguard all future nesting grounds
of the green, hawksbill and leatherback turtles
that nest on nearby Wa Ale Island. Wa Ale lies a
mere 220 metres, at the shortest crossing, off the
southwestern point of Lampi Island.

Article l Myanmar | 81
Myanmar

SCUBA DIVING
Myanmar’s Myeik Archipelago

There was plenty to do between the dives, After three days of diving, we all put our
such as paddling out on kayaks to explore pictures together and identified no less than
deserted islands. The untouched white sand fifty individual mantas. Because manta rays
beaches and the clear water felt like paradise. have unique spotted patterns on their under-
Apart from diving, kayaking and eating, my side it is quite easy to differentiate between
Words and photos by Juan Gallardo other favourite activity was to head up to the them.
www.MyanmarTravelEssentials.com top deck to relax on the sunbeds. This is the While the manta rays were amazing, let’s
perfect place for reading and naps, especially not forget the other incredible underwater life
after breakfast following the first dive of the we saw. The area is home to numerous species
I recently spent eight days on a liveaboard morning. of brilliantly-coloured soft corals on limestone
in the Mergui (Myeik) Archipelago and it was rock. I particularly enjoyed looking at the
The highlight of the trip was our visit to
the best diving adventure I’ve ever had. The massive gorgonian sea fans with the colourful
Black Rock. We arrived on the third day and
fact that we didn’t come across other boats reef fish playing around in the background.
nothing could have prepared us for what we
at any of the dive sites made it extra special, The large moray eels hiding in cracks were
were about to witness. We jumped into the
especially for the underwater photographers awesome and the scorpion fish and octopus
water just before 7 am and were immediately
amongst us.
greeted by manta rays. We saw several mantas camouflaged on the purple and violet algae-
The diving sites are incredibly beautiful on the second, third and fourth dives. We were covered rocks were really cool. I also saw my
with colourful, soft corals, swim-through caves, so excited that we voted to stay a second day first turtle, a large stingray, and a small shark.
macro life, and a big chance of meeting a at Black Rock. And guess what? It was as good For those with a keen eye, seahorses, or-
whale shark or giant manta rays. as the first day; we saw mantas on every single nate ghost pipefish, frogfish and stonefish are
The boat I chose had an amazing crew dive. The same thing happened the next day, common on many sites as are the schools of
and the diving instructors were super friendly so in the end we spent three days at Black barracudas, rainbow runners, tuna, trevallies,
professionals with great respect for the Rock doing 12 dives. and Spanish mackerels.
environment. They conducted clear briefings On one of the dives I was surrounded by To top this all off, I was also able to
before every dive, which made me feel safe six huge mantas with wingspans of about four advance in PADI by doing the Enriched Air
and comfortable under water. or five metres. They swam so close to me! (Nitrox) course during my first two days. What
The boat has three decks and eight cabins, Truly unforgettable! a wonderful trip!
all of them with air conditioning and a sea
view window that can be opened. The upper
Juan Gallardo is a born adventurer from the Spanish city of Seville and has lived
deck is the chill-out area and the area where
briefings take place before each dive. Instruc- in the UK, the US and Europe. Juan first visited Myanmar in 2012 and has been living in
tors are so familiar with the diving sites that Yangon since 2014. He is passionate about photography and Burmese cuisine, which he
one of them has created maps of the different captures in his book: “Delicious Myanmar – Discover Myanmar through its people and food”.
islands, which are used to explain the diving
plan prior to every dive.
The upper deck is also the dining area
where you can help yourself to coffee, tea,
toast, water, electrolyte drinks, fresh fruits
and, my favourite, pineapple jam biscuits. If
you have ever dived in Thailand, you will be
familiar with the biscuits I’m talking about.
Special mention goes to the chef on board
and her assistant who prepared the most
delicious Thai food. The wide variety of food
included meat, fish and vegetable dishes far
tastier than in most restaurants. In the morn-
ings we had a European style breakfast includ-
ing corn flakes, muesli, fruit, brown bread,
pancakes, omelettes, fried eggs, sausages, tea
and coffee.
We did a total of 22 dives, starting in
the early morning before breakfast, with the
fourth and final dive just before sunset. We
also had the opportunity to go on a night dive,
which is always exciting.
82 Globerovers · July 2018
ACTIVITIES
The Myeik Archipelago is vast and
offers almost unlimited activities to the
adventure-spirited intrepid traveller.
Among the many activities are just loung-
ing around on one of the many beautiful
beaches, snorkelling, scuba diving, wildlife
spotting during jungle hikes, island hop-
ping, kayaking, paddle boarding, and
anything else you like to do on remote
tropical islands.  provided their guests follow strict rules
While official hiking trails are still very
limited, if you are adventurous enough to
take on the dense forests, you will find jun-
gles on the islands to be one of the most
rewarding experiences in the archipelago.  inhabitants, then this is the best way to
A diverse range of wildlife can be
found including the cute spectacled
leaf monkey, gibbons, Sunda pangolin,
pythons, monitor lizards, oriental small-
clawed otter, lesser mouse-deer, monitor
lizards, civets, chevrotains, gibbons, and
many more. Watch out for the scampering
crab-eating macaques foraging for crabs
on the islands’ rocky shores. Among the
most unique birds in the Myeik Archi-
pelago are the plain-pouched hornbill,
Wallace’s hawk-eagle, white-bellied sea
eagles, crested partridge, red-throated sun-
bird, brown-winged kingfisher, Pacific reef
herons, emerald doves, and more.
Kayaking and paddle boarding offer
great opportunities to slowly move across
the shallows that skirt the enchanted
mangrove forests and up the small rivers.
Get a glimpse into the lives of the many
small critters that live in these shallow pro-
tected waters.
Yachting is one of the most sustain-
able forms of ecotourism and leaves the
areas they visit exactly as nature intended,
to respect nature and not to litter. If
the yachts and their guests leave no traces
of pollution, and no signs of disruption to
the reefs, beaches, and jungles and their
experience the archipelago. While the
jungle is home to so many creatures, likely
many not been identified, the diversity on
the islands is more than matched by life in
the sea, showcasing an incredible variety of
marine life.  The diving spots across the region
Diving here is still in its infancy, as the
entire region has been off-limits to divers
since the late 1940s. After years of negotia-
tion by several of the Phuket-based dive
operators, the archipelago was opened to
them in 1997, though much of this vast
area remains virgin territory to divers.
Today, an increasing number of boats visit
the area, so one of the best activities across
the archipelago is scuba diving, as well as
snorkelling. There is no better way to enjoy
this adventure than to embark on a live-
aboard boat and set off on a multi-day
excursion that covers a wide area. 
The area has a fascinating topogra-
phy and prolific fish and invertebrate
life. In the more shallow waters, you will
come across many species of corals as
well as parrotfish, domino fish, butterfly
fish, snapper, grouper and colourful sea
anemones.
While diving, on a good day, you
may see several shark species such as the
nurse, grey reef, and bull sharks, as well
as eagle and manta rays, the dugong,
giant stingrays, octopus, seahorses, frog-
fish, scorpionfish, ribbon eels, ornate ghost
pipefish, schools of barracudas, rainbow
runners, tuna, trevallies, and Spanish
mackerels, and the list goes on and on.
are diverse and far apart, most of which
have not been explored. In the far western
corner of the archipelago where the conti-
nental shelf drops off into the deep sea, is a
range of underwater mountains known as
the Burma Banks which consist of the is-
lands of Rainbow, Silvertip, and Roe Bank,
plus the Coral and Heckford Banks. This
area offers some serious adrenaline-pump-
Article l Myanmar | 83
 Exclusive Dive Cruises
Away from the crowds!
Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago is a well-hidden divers’ paradise.
With 800 islands and countless pinnacles, it offers incredible diving opportunities with magnificent coral reef
inhabited by a diverse macro life as well as pelagic sea life.

Excellent customer service, delicious food and a friendly atmosphere make

The Smiling Seahorse
the best option to discover the archipelago.
Come on board and experience our comfortable brand new 2018 vessel.

Come as a guest, leave as a friend

84 Globerovers · July 2018

 Myanmar

ing open ocean diving where friendly which covers several of the most beautiful
shark encounters are virtually guaranteed. dive spots across the region. They guar-
Other highly recommended diving antee that their friendly and professional
sites include Black Rock, Little Torres Is- service, combined with their yummy food,
lands, and also Shark Cave which is home means “time cruising between uninhab-
to a group of nurse sharks. Tower Rock at ited secluded islands on sapphire-like blue
the northern part of the archipelago has water will be nearly as wonderful as the
a dramatic topography with deep walls time you will spend underwater.” Their
studded with corals and fans, providing boats to the Myeik Archipelago depart
ample shelter to lobsters, shrimps, oysters from Ranong in Thailand and Kawthaung
and clams. Often massive manta rays glide in Myanmar. Their brand-new boat, the 25
silently past this impressive backdrop. The metres long MV Smiling Seahorse, will sail
number of dive sites surveyed so far is the Myeik Archipelago starting on the 26th
numerous, yet the area is vast with much of October 2018. See their advertisement
of it unexplored by divers. on the opposite page for more information.
A great way to find a suitable live-
aboard is to visit liveaboard.com which
currently has a listing of 384 liveaboards
with 23,073 cruises. Choose from a variety
of destinations such as the Maldives,
Egypt, Indonesia, Thailand, the Galapagos
Islands, Mexico, and many more, including
of course Myanmar’s Myeik Archipelago.
See their advertisement below for a 30%
discount off a selected cruise.
For an exceptional liveaboard experi-
ence, join The Smiling Seahorse team

Article l Myanmar | 85
 Maliwan Spa

Souvenir Shop

The Cliff Lounge

www.victoriacliff.com
Victoria Restaurant

Fitness and Sports Centre

Meetings and Events Rooms

Tranquil Landscaped Gardens

Accommodation choices
Hillside Villas
Lake View Villas
Ocean View Villas
Ocean View Wing

Victoria Cliff Hotel & Resort

Kawthaung - MYANMAR

FOR MORE INFORMATION, CONTACT US:

No 1, Bogyoke Rd, Shwe Pyae Soe Quarter, Kaw Thaung, 14091 Myanmar.

Myanmar telephone: (+95) 092-5386-9977, (+95) 092-5386-9979

Thailand telephone: (+66) 092-448-7171, (+66) 077-810-701
email: info@victoriacliff.com, sales@victoriacliff.com
@Victoria.Cliff.Hotel.and.Resort
86 Globerovers · July 2018

KAWTHAUNG - THE GATEWAY
One of the gateways to the Myeik
Archipelago and the port from where the
luxury private yacht of the Wa Ale Island
Resort departs is Kawthaung, the most
southern town of Myanmar. Kawthaung is
only separated from Thailand’s Ranong
Province by a broad estuary in the Pak-
chan River, also known as the Kra Buri
River. Known as Victoria Point during
the British rule of Burma between 1824
and 1948, it is a charming and laid-back
town straddled across the hills between
the Kra Buri River on the east side and the
Andaman Sea to the west.  and curious to engage with visitors. A few (Burmese) monarch who invaded Thailand
The town and the surrounding areas
offer several sights of interest such as the
town’s 21 metres high Pyi Daw Aye Pagoda
located on a hill overlooking the town.
Built in 1949, do walk inside the temple to
Myanmar
see the eight meditation niches that repre- small water park with slides. 
sent the eight days of the Buddhist week. It The downtown area also offers a few
also contains 14 Buddha images. lovely restaurants serving up authentic
About 3 km further north is the Mey Burmese food, as well as coffee shops and
Paw Kyan Pagoda. At the northern end interesting markets. Close to the har-
of town along the river is a large area of bour, the street is lined with a number of
stilted houses built on the edge of the river. simple seafood restaurants and lively beer
This is an interesting area to explore. Dur- stations. At the most southern tip is the
ing low tide, the residents scour the muddy Nagayone Temple right at the water’s edge.
riverbed for molluscs and crabs, while Nearby is the Kawthaung Grand Spirit
during high tide the kids are like fish in the Shrine.
water. They run along the wobbly planks At the southern end of the harbour
connecting the houses and then jump into lies the modest Cape Bayin Naung park,
the water. The people are very welcoming named after King Bayinnaung, a Bamar
restaurants and drinking spots make this several times between 1548 and 1569. Here
an enjoyable part of visiting Kengtaung. you can find a large bronze statue of the
Some 40 km north of Kawthaung, to famous king in full battle gear and bran-
the south of Maliwun village, is the Mali- dishing a sword pointed in the direction
wan Waterfall with a swimming area and a of Thailand. A warning to the Thais not to
Article l Myanmar | 87
 dare invade. It requires a short but steep
hike up to the crest of a hill on the cape.
One of the highlights of the
Kawthaung area is Palautonetone, a low-
lying island about 9 km northeast of the
Kawthaung harbour. The island is linked to
the mainland by a 1,000+ metres long old
teakwood bridge which is open to vehicu-
lar traffic. Best to avoid the crossing on a
motorbike which is quite nerve-wracking,
especially when wet! A better way to cross
the bridge is on foot. Where the bridge
reaches the island, notice the abundance of
critters in the mud during low tide, in par-
ticular the large mud crabs and amphibi-
ous mudskippers. can also find a few T-shirt shops and snack
The south side of the island is covered vendors.
with mangroves and is best explored by The northwest side of the island
kayak rather than by land.  is home to a lively yet rustic and pictur-
esque fishing village partly build on stilts
A hundred metres or so before the
over the water. The people are a mixture
northern tip of the village, a dirt track
turns off to the left to circumvent some low of Bamar Buddhist, Chinese Buddhist and
hills and lead you to a long wide brownish- Muslims, and while they are not used to
sand beach on the island’s northwestern seeing many tourists, they are generally
side. While the beach is reasonably clean, very welcoming. Be prepared for a string
the seawater is quite murky. Where the of happy kids following you, laughing at
small road terminates at the beach, a string most every gesture you make! Most of
of seafood restaurants and beer sta- them love having their photos taken. 
tions serve basic meals and cold beer. You During low tide, the sea recedes quite

JOIN US
FOR
INTREPID
FUN
GlobeRovers
Magazine

88 Globerovers · July 2018


far which allows the locals to scour the
exposed seabed for anything edible or
valuable. During high tide the waters sur-
round the stilted houses, almost splashing
inside the basic wooden homes. This is the
time when even the youngest kids come
out to dive and swim in the waters well
over their heads.
The island of Palautonetone can be
reached by tuk-tuk from downtown, or
even better, stay at the lovely Victoria Cliff
Hotel and Resort, located some 6.5 km
from the Kawthaung harbour. The Resort
offers a variety of luxury accommoda-
tion types which include the Ocean View
Wings, the Lake View Villas, Ocean View
Villas, and the Hillside Villas. The Resort
grounds can best be described as well-
groomed botanical gardens, complete with
ESSENTIAL
Getting There
Foreigners are not currently allowed to
travel independently around the Myeik
Archipelago. Government restrictions
still require foreign visitors to join an ap-
proved tour company. Tours depart from
Myanmar’s Kawtaung and from Thailand.
Most cost-effective way to Kawtaung is to
fly AirAsia or Nok Air from Bangkok to Ra-
nong and then cross by 20-minute ferry
When to Go
The best season to visit is from October
or November to April or May during the
dry season. December to March is high
season, with hot sunny days and cool
temperatures overnight. April and May are
very hot. June to September is rainy with
most dive operators and resorts closed.
Dining Out
Kawtaung has several eateries along
the harbour which vary from lively beer
stations with snacks to expansive buffets
Myanmar style. Just point at a few dishes
and pay later as food is very affordable.
Elsewhere, your tour will be full-board.
Myanmar Beer is good, so enjoy it.
lakes, swans, and very tall palm trees and
incredibly well-maintained giant bonsais.
Their restaurants serve top class Burmese,
Asian, and Western cuisines with stunning
views over the sea and nearby islands.
Enjoy a large swimming pool as well as a
smaller infinity pool overlooking the sea.
After a day of exploring the Resort or the
southern tip of Myanmar, have a relax-
ing massage or scrub at the Maliwan Spa
or workout at the well-equipped fitness
centre overlooking the large pool and
gardens. The Resort can accommodate up
to 500 guests for weddings, conferences,
or any kind of celebration. Pure bliss!
From the Resort it is a short tuk-tuk
ride to the bridge, or rather take on the
roughly 2 km walk to the island village.
You will take a lot of photos while cross-
INFORMATION
Getting Around
Getting around Kawtaung, the gateway to
the archipelago, is easy. Ample taxis and
tuk-tuks (motorbikes with sidecars) are on
the roads. Around the islands, your tour
operator will take care of all the arrange-
ments which are usually by liveaboard
boat, speedboat, or luxury yacht. Kayaks
are often provided to explore the man-
groves.
Where to Stay
If you are not on a liveaboard such as
The Smiling Seahorse, then stay at the
exclusive Wa Ale Island Resort which is
top notch in everything they do. A few
other hotels and resorts are available in
the area. In Kawtaung, the best place to
stay is the Victoria Cliff Hotel and Resort.
Packing
While most of the year is hot and humid,
December and January can be cool at
night. Bring long hiking pants and long
sleeve shirts if you plan to hike the jungle.
On the islands are no drug stores, so obvi-
ously bring everything you need. Kawtaung
stores have decent basic supplies.
Myanmar
ing the bridge and don’t forget to check
out the critters down below as you leave
the bridge on the island. A new bridge is
currently under construction which will
replace this old teakwood bridge. Appar-
ently, the old bridge will be saved and used
as a footbridge, though the adjacent new
concrete bridge will unquestionably spoil
the photo opportunities. GR
Globerovers Magazine
acknowledges with great
appreciation the sponsorship by
Wa Ale Island Resort and
Victoria Cliff Hotel & Resort
Photography
Myanmar is generally paradise for
photographers. Literally around every
corner is a “Kodak-moment”. Most people
are happy to have their photos taken,
in particular the kids who truly love to
see themselves on your digital camera
screen. Best is to ask permission when
photographing elderly people and in pri-
vate areas such as inside homes.
Safety
As with much of Myanmar, the town of
Kawtaung and the entire archipelago is a
safe destination for foreign travellers. The
only danger may come from the weather
and nature, so be vigilant. The ocean can
be treacherous, especially during the mon-
soon season. The jungle has hidden traps.
Cost of Travel
As you can’t travel independently around
the Myeik Archipelago, you need to book
with a resort or a liveaboard. Neither
comes cheap. Whatever you pay, you will
realize it’s worth every cent. Kawtaung
and the mainland can be visited indepen-
dently, and travel is not expensive.
Article l Myanmar | 89
90 Globerovers · July 2018
Lifetime Travel Memories

Myanmar Creating Treasured Memories

Phone: +95-1-394952
+95-9-420065267
Contact our awesome team to create your adventure!
+95-9-420231540
sales@pronititravel.com

Follow us:
Twitter: @Pro_Niti_Travel
Facebook: @ProNitiTravel
Instagram: pronititravel

Article l Myanmar | 91
 Meet the Tattooed-Face Women
Photographer of Myanmar’s Chin State
Gilad Fiskus was born in Montréal, Canada in 1965 and has
been living in Israel since his early childhood. In 1989 he
graduated with honours from the Dentistry School at the
Hebrew University of Jerusalem.

He currently practices dental aesthetics from his office

near Tel Aviv. As a photographer, his artistic work
concentrates primarily around unique human cultures.
Being an autodidact photographer, he is passionate
about capturing cultural ceremonies, people in trad-
itional dress, and rituals. Over the years his photos
have been displayed in more than 100 exhibitions
around the globe. Gilad travels once or twice a year in
search of unexplored and authentic destinations, filling
his soul with new experiences and creative photography.

His photography is showcased at www.fiskus-photos.com

A
Globerovers Magazine talked with Dr. Gilad Fiskus about
his passion for photographing human culture.
Photo credit: Avshalom Levi

s a cultural photographer, I am fascinated over and over by exotic and
colourful tribes. I recently debated where to travel next. There are
so many exciting destinations to photograph, yet I have limited time
and money to spend on my travels. However, once I laid eyes on photos of
the tattooed-face tribes of Myanmar’s Chin State, I knew that it must be my
destination for 2018.
Once I arrived amidst the Chin people, I was captivated. The overwhelming
welcome by the enchanting people, the untrammelled photographic oppor-
tunities and the diversity of photo shots, made my journey so exceptional
and unforgettable.
ering seemed more like a party than a mourning ritual. For the next three
days, locals were dancing, singing and playing happy tunes on their ethnic
musical instruments - all blended with homemade alcohol and frequent
blank gunshots fired into the air.
Traditionally, the practice of tattooing Chin State women’s faces was
intended to protect them. Known for their beauty, the women were prone
to being kidnapped by the soldiers of the Burmese kings. Tattooing their
faces was an attempt to disfigure their femininity. Their “ugliness” over time
turned into an expression of “beauty”, which became a unique element of
their culture.

I love the tattooed women’s portraits and the proud hunting tradition of
their husbands. I adore the joyful kids looking so lively with the yellow-
ish-white cosmetic thanaka paste (made from ground bark) smeared over
their faces. It was delighful to watch the boys playing their local version of
sepak takraw, a popular ball game in Myanmar and other countries in the
region including Thailand, Malaysia, India and Indonesia. The game is some-
what of a fusion between football and volleyball, and so much fun to watch.
Six tattooed-face tribes still exist in Chin State. Each is unique in their own
style of tattoos. The M’uun tribe has large emphasized D and P shaped sym-
bols. The M’kaan women have lined tattoos on their foreheads and chins.
Dai and Yin Du tribes have long vertical lines shaped like cobwebs. The
Nga Yau tribe women combine dots and stripes, while the Uppriv have their
entire faces covered with dots, giving them an ashen look. The diversity in
tattoo designs is indicative of their effort to differentiate between tribes,
perhaps to prevent bride-kidnapping among the tribes.

During my stay in Chin State, I attended a unique ceremony related to
mourning rituals. While having lunch at a local restaurant, sudden gunshots
startled me. It turned out that one of the elders in the village had passed
away, and people came from all over the state to pay their last respects.
I was invited into the local bar where the ceremony took place. The gath-
However, this unique tradition has been outlawed for over 50 years, par-
ticularly to prevent infections due to inadequate sanitary conditions. In the
past, infections caused death in some cases. Nevertheless, despite the ban,
tattooed women in their thirties and forties can still be found in the remote
areas of Chin State.

92 Globerovers · July 2018

Meet the Photographer l Gilad Fiskus

Meet the Photographer | 93

94 Globerovers · July 2018
 Meet the Photographer l Gilad Fiskus

All photos by Dr. Gilad Fiskus

Meet the Photographer | 95

96 Globerovers · July 2018
 Meet the Photographer l Gilad Fiskus

All photos by Dr. Gilad Fiskus

Meet the Photographer | 97

98 Globerovers · July 2018
Meet the Photographer l Gilad Fiskus

All photos by Dr. Gilad Fiskus

Meet the Photographer | 99

100 Globerovers · July 2018
101

Th e C a p e W e
Words by Janet-Lynn Vorster In our series, Village LIFE, our Southern Africa correspondent, Janet-Lynn Vorster,
Cape Town, South Africa. takes us around the Cape Peninsula of South Africa’s Western Cape Province (Part 1),
All photos by Globerovers Magazine, before heading northwest along the lower West Coast to visit the coastal retreats from
unless where otherwise indicated. Bloubergstrand to the long stretched beaches of Yzerfontein. Part 2 in December 2018.
T able Mountain is a highly visible
and well-recognised land mark
internationally. It is as spectacu-
lar as any other world-renowned
land mark. If you don’t recognize it at a
glance, your travels and general knowledge
of the world are sadly lacking.
The Cape Peninsula, which stretches
from Gordon’s Bay to Blouberg Strand, is
arguably one of the most beautiful places
in the world. It lies at the southwestern tip
of Africa, not quite as far south as Cape
Agulhas where the Atlantic and Indian
oceans meet though.
The Cape Peninsula, incorporating
Cape Town, is flanked by the cold Ben-
guela Current of the Atlantic Ocean. This
current wells up, bringing cold, mineral-
rich water from the depths of the Atlantic
Ocean, which surfaces along the west coast
of Southern Africa and then flows north-
wards.
It is difficult to explain to people who
have not experienced this city, how one
can drive for hours within Cape Town, a
small city by world standards, and have
at least 30 different beaches to visit, a
national park, and many mountains to
climb. This is due to the irregular coast-
line that juts out into the Atlantic. These
jutting out areas, known as the peninsula,
include Cape Point and the Cape of Good
Hope. Both lie side by side at the tip of the
peninsula.
102 Globerovers · July 2018
s t C o a s t . P a r t 1
& F is h in g v il lages.
s e r te d b e a ches h Africa
de n c e, S o u t
Cape Provi
C P
The ape eninsula
Gateway to the West Coast
Majestic Table Mountain
Table Mountain National Park encom-
passes a vast part of the peninsula, 221
km² in total. It was proclaimed on 29 May
1998, to protect the natural environment of
the Table Mountain Chain, particularly the
rare fynbos vegetation. Few people know
there are five dams on Table Mountain and
billions of cubic metres of fresh, drinkable
and crystal-clear water in natural aquifers
below it. You must take the cable car to the
top of Table Mountain. If the cableway is
closed due to wind, rain or poor visibility,
just reschedule. You will never forgive
yourself for coming to Cape Town and not
going up the cableway. Never! The views
from up there are spectacular!
To experience the glory of this moun-
tain there are hikes you can book with
guides, depending on how fit you are. Hik-
ing or mountain biking into the mountains
covered in indigenous forest and fynbos
is a favourite pastime of Capetonians. The
laid-back surfing community, compris-
ing body boarders, surfers, kite boarders,
 Village LIFE
Cape Peninsula, SOUTH AFRICA

Cape Peninsula and the lower West Coast

windsurfers and stand up paddle boarders,
is in stark contrast to the executive and
international business conducted in Cape
Town. It is an active, vibey yet relaxed city.
False Bay and Table Bay
To the east of the peninsula lies False
Bay. This is the bay protected by Cape
Point to the west, and to the east it extends
as far as Pringle Bay in the Overberg
region. Harbours in False bay include the
Simonstown Naval Base, Kalk Bay Har-
bour, and Gordons Bay Harbour.
To the west of the peninsula lies Table
Bay, stretching from the Cape of Good
Hope to just beyond Blouberg. Within this
bay lie the harbours of Hout Bay and Cape
Town, with Robben Island just offshore.
This is the island where Nelson Mandela
was imprisoned for many years.
According to my research, the pen-
insula has been an island many times in
the past five million years, but it presently may see our new president, Cyril Rama-
forms part of the African continent.
A trip around the Peninsula
To better explain the vast and scenic
distances you can travel within Cape Town
alone, I measured the distance from the bot- beach are many places to wine and dine.
tom of the ferris wheel at the Victoria and
Alfred Waterfront, known as the V & A, to
the little coloured change houses on Mui-
zenberg Beach. This distance is 23 km as
the crow flies. However, should you choose
the scenic route from the ferris wheel, my
favourite drive, and travel along the coast-
line to Muizenberg Beach, you will travel a
distance of 89 km.
Before you leave V & A, visit the
aquarium, harbour and shopping mall.
Take a cruise across to Robben Island, a
helicopter flip, or stay for the open-air
cinema. Visit the Maritime Museum or
the Museum of Gems & Jewellery. There
is no shortage of places to savour culinary
delights anywhere in the peninsula, and V
& A will not disappoint.
Now, buckle up and let’s get going!
The V&A Waterfront in Table Bay
From the ferris wheel at the V & A,
take the M6 and travel along the coast past
Mouille Point and Sea Point where you
phosa, jogging along the promenade and
posing for photos with the locals. Con-
tinue past Bantry Bay, Clifton, Camps Bay,
and Bakoven. Stop off along the way at
Camps Bay Beach, and swim or just stroll
along the beach. Across the road from the
You will be spoilt for choice.
From Bakoven, there is a scenic stretch
of coastal road along the cliffs. Stop at
one of the places designated to safely pull
off the road and take photos. As you pass
Llandudno, you can either continue to
Hout Bay, or turn in and drive very care-
fully down some extremely steep roads to
the beach below. This is one of the most
beautiful beaches in Cape Town. Llan-
dudno is also where you can park your car,
at the southern end of Sunset Avenue, and
walk quite a long way (about 20 minutes)
to a hidden beach known as Sandy Bay,
which is the only (unofficial) nudist beach
in Cape Town.
Once in Hout Bay, you have more
choices to make about lingering or con-
tinuing. World of Birds Wildlife Sanctuary
and Monkey Park is an avian, reptilian and
wildlife sanctuary in Hout Bay. Hout Bay
is home to the famous Mariner’s Wharf
at the harbour, and its well-visited shell
and clothing shop. There is also a harbour
market. From this harbour you can charter
a boat to view the seals at Seal Island. At
the far end of Harbour Road is a little place
called Fish on the Rocks - a favourite fam-
ily place for good old take-away hake- or
calamari and chips.
From Hout Bay, take Chapmans Peak
Drive, still M6, and the only toll road
within Cape Town, so take cash or an ac-
ceptable bank card. Enjoy this spectacular
stretch of coast. Pass beneath daunting
Village Life l South Africa | 103
 UNWIND IN A PERFECT STATE OF BLISS
+27 21 551 0441
25 Albus Drive, Sunset Beach, Cape Town, South Africa.
info@blissboutiquehotel.co.za
www.blissboutiquehotel.co.za

This little slice of heaven is a premier location, offering luxury accommodation surrounded by natural fynbos and
a private pathway to the beach. With uninterrupted views of Table Mountain, Table Bay, Robben Island and the
Atlantic Ocean as far as the eye can see, we invite you to relax, unwind and find your perfect state of BLISS.

We offer boutique hotel or villa accommodation with covetable luxuries such as your own private beach, a pillow
menu, a personalised minibar with services and facilities to enhance your experience with us.
104 Globerovers · July 2018
overhanging cliffs as you get closer to From Scarborough you will turn right
Noordhoek. Be very careful of falling rocks at the T-junction, still on the M65 though,
on all the scenic coastal cliff drives in the and drive towards Cape Point. This is
wet and rainy season if the road has not baboon area. Do not feed them. Do not get
been closed. out of your car or open the windows. They
Noordhoek is a horsey suburb. It has a can be very manipulative and will some-
much-loved beach, although not my favou- times block the road to prevent you from
rite, due to long distances to walk from the passing, hoping for food. Just be patient.
car park across the sand to the beach, so They will eventually move. Whatever you
this beach is not advisable for older people do, do not run them over.
or tiny tots, or for carrying beach umbrel- Soon you will see the turnoff to Cape
las, picnics and the likes. It is perfect for Point on your right. Turn in to take photos
horse rides and long walks, though! at Cape Point, or your Cape Peninsula visit
The Noordhoek Market is well worth a is incomplete. After paying at the gate,
visit. My favourite culinary experience in look down towards the sea on your left,
Noordhoek is to go to Cape Point Vine- and see Smitswinkel Bay. It is a 15-minute
yards overlooking Noordhoek and the bay walk down on foot, so only for the fit!
on a Thursday late afternoon between 4:30 Cape Point needs an article of its own,
pm and 8:30 pm and watch the sunset. as do most places in Cape Town. However,
Phone ahead to check they are open as of interest here is the rich maritime- and
they close in the rainy season. Here at the cultural history related to this majestic
community market you can buy a variety and beautiful piece of mountainous land
of culinary delights, wine and craft beer flanked by the ocean on both sides. Walk
from the various stalls. Sit at the tables on the Shipwreck Trail, kayak or mountain
the patio or on the lawn next to the dam. bike, find a deserted beach, swim in a tidal
There is plenty of place for kids to run pool, dive, snorkel, eat out at a top-class
around and play here, which is great news restaurant, and buy curios. If you are a
if you are travelling with children and find birding enthusiast you are in for a treat,
that the restaurants test your parenting and you may be lucky and spot whales or
skills. You will be amazed at the variety dolphins; perhaps even the legendary “Fly-
and quality of the food. Take cash to pay at ing Dutchman” ghost ship!
the various stalls.
From Noordhoek, continue on the M6, False Bay en-route to Muizenberg
and turn right onto the M65 in Sun Valley Continue to Simonstown, where there
to go to Kommetjie - one of my favourite is plenty to do and see. Just past Cape
little off-the-beaten track suburbs within Point, the road changes from M65 to M4.
Cape Town. Enjoy the beach or take the Visit the penguins at Boulders Beach or
wooden walkway to the lighthouse and the crystal shop called Scratch Patch. Look
back again. Fisherman’s Kommetjie is out for a statue on Jubilee Square of a dog
lovely in good weather, and a meal under called “Just Nuisance”. On Friday, 25th Au-
the trees comes very highly recommended; gust 1939, Just Nuisance was enlisted into
Especially for Sunday lunch, when they the Royal Navy. There are some amazing
usually have a singer with a guitar as stories that accompany the history of this
entertainment. Continue through Noord- Great Dane, so don’t leave Simonstown
hoek and pass Witsand which is a hangout without the full story, which you will get
beach for surfers and kiteboarders with the from the museum. There are two museums
whitest sand I ever saw. Passing through – one of the them the South African Navy
Misty Cliffs, don’t blink or you will miss it. Museum.
You may feel as if you are in a completely If you prefer, you can park your car
desolate place on earth and will have to re- and take the train from Simonstown to
mind yourself that you are in Cape Town. Muizenberg. It is very affordable. You
The next suburb is Scarborough. It still can get on and off at any station between
has untarred roads in places and the beach these two points all day long if you wish. It
is as Mother Nature made it. I love this meanders along the shoreline and passes a
beach, as its rocks are just the right height few beaches and tidal pools along the way.
for sitting on, and parking is almost right You could make a whole day out of this
on the beach. trip alone.
Village Life l South Africa | 105
 Positioned in the most romantic valley on earth,
Franschhoek Country House & Villas is an exclusive
boutique hotel reminiscent of a village in Provence yet
with an elegant Cape sensibility. Set in gardens of
lemon trees, lavender and vines – with fynbos draping
the nearby mountains – the original, charming country
maison includes 14 standard and luxury rooms as
well as the award-winning Monneaux Restaurant
while the 12 Villa suites are havens of privacy &
understated opulence. Swimming pools, a candle-lit
cellar, a treatment room and sun-down verandas are
all a traveller needs as you live la vie extraordinaire.

For current special offers and packages

visit our website at www.fch.co.za

Tel: +27 (0)21 876 3386

Email: info@fch.co.za

106 Globerovers · July 2018

 But, let’s continue driving.
Leaving Simonstown and passing the
suburb of Glencairn on the way to Fish
Hoek, you will find the pub and grill,
Dixies, en-route on your left. This comes
highly recommended by myself and my
family and is a delightful place to watch
the sun setting.
Continue to Fish Hoek and turn right
at the circle, still on the M4.
The beach in Fish Hoek is a huge
favourite. I love this beach purely for the
feeling of the sand. Due to the gentleness
of the waves in this protected bay, the sand
is powdery soft, and the sensory experi-
ence of burying my feet in it is magical.
Don’t be surprised if you want to bury
yourself completely with just your head
sticking out, as you perhaps did as a child.
It has that effect on one. You may have
to pay to visit this beach in season, but it
is well worth it. The restaurants here are
good. Look out for the artists who make
sculptures using the beach sand, weather
and tide permitting. They are brilliant.
Give them a generous tip and they will
pose for you next to their work. Your
photo will be unique. They never make the
same sculpture twice.
En-route to Kalk Bay, stop off at the
harbour and refresh at one of the pubs.
If you are staying in self-catering accom-
modation, you may be lucky enough to
get some fresh fish as the fishermen come
in with their fishing boats, usually around
midday.
I love shopping in Kalk Bay. The cloth-
ing and jewellery shops are quirky. The
antique shops and bric-a-brac are fasci-
nating. I discovered, hidden in one of the
alleys up some steps, a delightful second-
hand china shop called Whatnot & China
Town, which sells ceramics and fine bone
china tea sets and other items, literally
jam-packed from floor to ceiling. Tread
carefully here and don’t go in there with
children! Eateries are everywhere, and the
well-known Brass Bell, the heart of Kalk
Bay, boasts three tidal pools and a view
of the harbour while ordering food and
drinks. So, take your bathing costume and
towel with you and spend some time here.
Get dressed up a little and end your day in
the Kalk Bay Theatre, an intimate theatre
that seats 77 people, and have dinner there. each relating to either earth, air, fire or
Next you will pass through St James,
with its many historical buildings, and
hidden tidal pool, beach and fishing spots. ley lines, also known as serpent or dragon
You must park in the street and walk un-
derneath the railway tracks to get there, for Mountain and this mystical mountain is
which there are tunnels constructed.
Continue driving and you will arrive
in Muizenberg. Turn right into Atlantic
Road, drive under the railway bridge, and energy. Small wonder that Capetonians
the Muizenberg Beach with the coloured
change houses will be on your right.
Cape Town: South Africa’s Mother City
Cape Town boasts some of the most
valuable properties in South Africa. It is
fast becoming an international commu-
nity and the new Hollywood for making
movies, with low production costs, a solid GlobeRovers Magazine.
reputation and a multitude of options for
perfect shooting locations.
Telegraph Travel Awards chose Cape
Town as the Best City in the World in
2015/2016, coming in ahead of both Van-
couver and Venice.
Cape Town also took the top honours
as the number one food city in the world
in Condé Nast’s Reader’s Choice Awards.
Wine farms in and around Cape Town
are plentiful. In Constantia Valley alone
there are nine wine farms in very close
proximity to one another: a mere twenty
minutes from the city centre.
In the suburbs around the foot of
Table Mountain, you will find many places
of spiritual healing, yoga and medita-
tion. Table Mountain is a special place
of spiritual energies. There are an ever-
increasing number of people who believe
that the earth has “energy centres”. Twelve
of these are regarded as major, compris-
ing eight chakras and four spinner wheels,
water. The spinner wheels are places that
radiate energy to the earth’s chakras along
lines. Two major ley lines intersect at Table
regarded as one of the four spinner wheels
and is assigned the earth element. Table
Mountain is believed to carry a nurturing
who reside at her feet refer to Cape Town
as the “Mother City”.
This is just a little taste of the Cape
Peninsula, and while I feel I have not done
it justice, I sincerely hope I have piqued
your curiosity enough to come and experi-
ence it. Perhaps I will see you soon in or
around Cape Town where I live and work
as a numerologist when I am not busy with
Did you know?
The following movies were partly
or wholly shot in Cape Town:
1. Tomb Raider, starring Alicia Vikander
2. Blood Diamond, with Leonardo DiCaprio,
Jennifer Connelly, Michael Sheen.
3. The Dark Tower, with Idris Elba and Matthew
McConaughey.
4. The Perfect Wave, featuring Clint Eastwood’s
son Scott Eastwood, Rachel Hendrix and
Cheryl Ladd.
5. Safe House, with Ryan Reynolds and Denzel
Washington.
6. The Brothers Grimsby, with Mark Strong and
Sacha Baron Cohen.
Village Life l South Africa | 107
 Journeying Up the West Coast
from Bloubergstrand to Yzerfontein
L
et’s get moving and leave Cape
Town. We will travel west,
hugging the coastline where
possible. After passing through
a few suburbs to the west of Cape Town
harbour, such as Paarden Eiland, Brook-
lyn, Milnerton and Sunset Beach, you will
get to Bloubergstrand.
Bloubergstrand
Blouberg translates as blue mountain,
referring to Table Mountain which domi-
nates the skyline in a shade of dark blue
across the bay, which should by now be
forever etched on your mind. If you look
out to sea, historical Robben Island will
be clearly visible (weather permitting, of
course). Both Table Mountain and Robben
Island are World Heritage Sites.
Bloubergstrand is a vibey area, with
108 Globerovers · July 2018
Words by Janet-Lynn Vorster.
Photos by Globerovers Magazine, unless where otherwise indicated.
a long beach and many restaurants and
places to stay. The best photographic views
of Table Mountain are often taken from
Bloubergstrand. The water is colder here
than further east in Cape Town, and it can
be very windy. However, this is exactly
what makes it a favourite spot for kitesurf-
ers and windsurfers. Watching them seem-
ingly effortlessly go through their moves is
an exhilarating experience which will keep
your focus riveted on the ocean.
If you are passionate about exploring
the wealth of fauna and flora in the area,
Blaauwberg Nature Reserve has a rare
combination of vegetation which is seldom
found in one conservation area. Over 40
of its over 560 plant species are considered
threatened with extinction. A variety of
mammals, reptiles, amphibians and but-
terfly species have been identified at the re-
serve. Over 140 bird species are on record.
Hungry or thirsty? Blue Peter and “Ons
Huisie”, as it is now known, built prior to
1853 and declared a national monument in
1973, are two of the places I have personal-
ly visited in the area. Ons Huisie is virtually
on the beach and serves delicious, tradi-
tional West Coast cuisine. It is also vegetar-
ian friendly and offers vegan options.
I recently met friends for a business
coffee at Melissa’s in Blaauwberg Street,
and I bought an olive bread, bacon jam
and sour fig jam to take home with me.
What a treat! Cape Sour Figs are indig-
enous to the coastal regions in the Western
Cape. The plant produces a beautiful yel-
low flower that develops into edible sour
fig fruit. The jam has a delicate tartness to
it.
So, what is this sour fig really? Carpo-
brotus edulis is an easy-to-grow succulent
groundcover, which grows wild along
the sand dunes in the Cape. You will find
them on the dunes in Bloubergstrand, with
their yellow flowers. The sap in the leaves
is anti-spasmodic, anti-septic, anti-fungal
and more. Simply pick a leaf and chew a
piece of it or rub it onto scratches or insect
bites if you have nothing else at hand. They
are great for bluebottle stings, so just crush
the leaves and apply them to the site of the
sting.
My herbal teacher always said that if
we ever had to leave the planet and could
take only one plant with us, it would have
to be the sour fig. My gran used to cook
jam for us as children, and we knew it by
its local name, ghaukum.
Melkbosstrand
A little further along the coast, yet well
within reach of Blouberg or Cape Town,
you will reach Melkbosstrand. A beautiful
cycling lane has been constructed between
Bloubergstrand and Melkbosstrand, which
was close to completion when I drove that
road between the two towns very recently.
So, rent a bicycle, and cycle along the
coast. I measured the distance as almost
seven-and-a-half kilometres from the last
traffic circle in Bloubergstrand to the traf-
fic circle in Melkbosstrand, where 500 m
to your left you will locate the main beach.
This is, like Bloubergstrand, a popular
water sports beach.
As you cycle along this road, you will
find many beaches that are the play-
grounds of kitesurfers in the area.
Melkbosstrand has a distinctly differ-
ent feel to Bloubergstrand, providing a
seaside holiday village experience with all
amenities close by. In fact, you are still well
within reach of anywhere in and around
Cape Town if you choose to stay here and
make this your base.
“Melkbos” refers to the Euphorbiaceae
bushes which grow on sand dunes in the
area.
If aviation excites you, a visit to the Air
Force Museum will be right up your alley.
I can vouch for Café Orca on the
beachfront. It is a fine-dining seafood
restaurant situated in a cottage on the pic-
turesque beachfront of Melkbosstrand.
Melkbosstrand is the entry point for
South Africa’s undersea communications
to Mauritius, India, Malaysia and the UK,
with branches to more than 10 African
west coast countries. Now you know it too!
For golfing enthusiasts, the Atlan-
tic Beach Golf Course can be found at
Melkbosstrand. It is one of South Africa’s
premier 18-hole golf courses.
Yzerfontain in the Swartland
Leaving Bloubergstrand and Melk-
bosstrand behind you, take the R27 West
Coast Road and travel about 58 km to
Yzerfontein. This should take you about 40
minutes.
However, if you stop at the Westcoast
Farm Stall it will take you considerably
longer, but hey, you are on holiday, right?
It is on the corner as you turn off the R27
to Yzerfontein. You can’t miss it with its
brightly-coloured parrots painted on
notice boards outside the farm stall. I was
there when I went to find out more about
Yzerfontein, and being over a weekend,
they served a yummy buffet breakfast
where you pay by weight, together with
farm-baked bread. They serve traditional
South African favourites such as oxtail,
bobotie and tripe, and I plan on sampling
those at the soonest opportunity.
I just love the quirky crocheted cur-
tains in the ladies’ loo and in the dining
area together with the painted murals. If
you enjoy knitting and crocheting like I
do, and you are here to relax, this farm
stall has a small but delightful selection of
yarns, as does Periwinkles in Yzerfontein.
Wander out through the back of the farm
stall and you will find a delightful nursery
and bird park with talking birds.
Village Life l South Africa | 109
 Yzerfontein got its name from the iron
deposits in the drinking water. It literally
means iron fountain.
I met with Marion at Wildflour Café
in Yzerfontein, her favourite coffee shop.
Marion is the owner of Chez James, a love-
ly self-catering apartment with views to die
for; cosy and modern. Her place is in Pearl
Bay, the newer section of Yzerfontein,
which stretches out along the seashore. We
had a delightful chat over a latté, and she
shared much of what follows in this article
with me before I drove around and went
to meet some of the people myself. She
speaks German, which is a bonus.
Bottom line: if you want an upmarket
seaside village experience this is the place to
be. It is quiet and peaceful, yet within reach
of many interesting day trips, less than two
hours away – including Cape Town!
110 Globerovers · July 2018
Yzerfontein has plenty of really good
self-catering places and guest houses, but
no hotels. For a large group you will find
you can rent an entire house. Most places
in Yzerfontein are close to the sea, and
many have a sea view.
If you are staying in self-catering ac-
commodation, there is no need to pur-
chase supplies before driving to Yzerfon-
tein. The local Kwikspar has most things,
like fresh milk, meat and vegetables and
other basic groceries and toiletries.
Marion suggests getting your bread
and pastries from Rosemead Artisan Bread
and Pastries in Yzerfontein. They bake the
“real deal”. The best dining experience, she
says, is Lula’s Portuguese Mediterranean
Family Restaurant.
If you need beach flip flops, bathing
costumes, wellies, hats, sunglasses or any
surfing equipment, you can purchase these
at Periwinkles. You have, after all, 16 miles
of uninterrupted sandy beach and year-
round sunshine waiting for you. The water,
though, is cold! Perhaps you might prefer
sunbathing, long walks on the beach or
fishing to swimming without a wetsuit.
The Southern Right whales come into
the bay between July and December to give
birth, against the backdrop of Table Moun-
tain. I could not believe it when I saw the
mountain, and I had to do a double take. I
measured the distance (on Google Earth)
as the crow flies from Yzerfontein to Table
Mountain, and found it was over 70 km
away, and that the line of sight went right
over Robben Island.
There are at least five hiking trails in
the vicinity, of around two-and-a-half
days each. Other trails include cycling and
canoeing trails. The trails are all appar-
ently relaxed and not too intense. Carry
only your day pack. Your luggage will be
transported. Tours are all guided, catered,
comfortable and safe.
You can book through Cape West
Coast Biosphere, and you will find their
office at the Westcoast Farm Stall as you
turn off to Yzerfontein. They will also give
you information on the heritage sites in
the area, like !Khwa ttu San Culture and
Educational Centre and the West Coast
Fossil Park.
There are also camping sites, numerous
Nature Reserves and industrial landmarks
in very close proximity to Yzerfontein.
If you need peace, tranquillity and time
to rejuvenate, a few day trips and some
gentle outdoor activities, then Yzerfontein
will tick all the boxes. GR
The town of Darling
Close to Yzerfontein you will locate the little town of Darling. It is inland, about 25 min-
utes’ drive (25,2 km) from Yzerfontein via the R315. Here you will find a lovely array of
sights and places to tantalise the senses.
• Experience the tasting room at Darling Olives, with cheese, wine, marmalade and
olive chocolate. The entire range of olive products is available for tasting during a
30-minute presentation.
• Visit the old Darling station, home of Pieter-Dirk Uys and Evita se Perron, meaning
Evita’s platform, a cabaret theatre and restaurant.
• Go wine tasting on the Darling Wine Route.
• Visit the Darling Brew, a craft beer microbrewery. The tasting room is open to the
public for an interactive tasting experience and boasts a locally-sourced braai-in-
spired menu. With its kiddies’ play area, it is a great place for the family to unwind.
When returning to Yzerfontein from the wine- and beer tasting in Darling, you may not
see pink elephants but ostriches strutting through the streets or your garden. Leave them
alone and you will be fine. And no, you will not be “seeing things” or imagining it, so
snap a few photos or nobody will ever let you live the story down.
Village Life l South Africa | 111
 Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve
On a beautiful Autumn day, I was picked up at or iPod docking station as I was magnetically
Twelve Apostles Hotel in Cape Town and shuttled drawn to the paintbrushes, watercolours and
to Bushmans Kloof, just over three hours away
via the N7. I was warmly greeted by all the staff
and refreshed with iced tea and a wet face towel.
The beautiful deluxe room, Masson, would
be mine exclusively for the next two days. “A
multitude of simple pleasures and extraordinary
experiences” is how Bushmans Kloof is described.
“Comfort, beauty and luxury”. I agree whole-
heartedly!
Makana, a thatched open-air restaurant
was the setting for the daily high tea. What a
beautiful spread fit for a queen, complete with
cucumber sandwiches.
On my first evening game drive, far from
the city, I vowed to be fully present and enjoy
every moment. The guides were super friendly
and knowledgeable, and the land rovers well
equipped with warm, waterproofed ponchos.
The chill set in as dusk descended while enjoying
sundowners at the open-air boma.
Back in my room, I unpacked into a large,
heavy wooden wardrobe and noticed the impos-
ing chest of drawers against the opposite wall.
Had I come with a partner and packed for a long
stay, packing space would have been ample!
Carved wooden walking sticks, umbrellas, yoga
mats and a hairdryer added thoughtful touches.
The tranquil bathroom was adorned with
delightful toiletries from their signature range, a
scented candle and fragrant oils in a burner.
This deluxe room had everything I needed.
I read the story of Bushmans Kloof and all the
information provided, including the expected
temperatures, precipitation and wind speed and
direction for the next few days.
I barely noticed the satellite TV, DVD/CD player hut, with rustic farm-style décor and many, many
Sponsored Accommodation fabulous
REVIEW
112 Globerovers · July 2018
THE RED CARNATION HOTEL COLLECTION
Nikki’s massage as one of the Top 5 in the world.
Her resulting iridescent glow and calmness did
paper provided on the table beneath. not go unnoticed.
The fridge was well stocked. A variety of teas, The heavy drapes and blinds in front of the
coffees and snacks, a kettle and Nespresso ma- windows do a splendid job of keeping the light
chine completed the picture. out should you wish to sleep in.
Pre-dinner drinks were followed by an Whether you need a break away in nature,
exquisite four-course dinner. On both evenings. a pampering in a luxury spa, delicious culinary
I was joined by Joanne from Tumbleweed Com- experiences, rest, outdoor adventurous activities,
munications (PR and media liaison), journalists, a romantic place to propose or historical cultural
editors, manager Rory and director and owner experiences viewing one of many Khoi San rock
Michael Tollman. Rika from Cape Nature chatted art sites, Bushmans Kloof has it all.
to us about the conservation at Bushmans Kloof. Bushmans Kloof, you may wear your five stars
Executive chef Charles and his team are brilliant, with pride.
with a little help from the Josper oven.
Back in my room, bedside lamps on, slippers,
robe and a snack waiting for me, I received a
bedtime story called “The Bird’s Great Race”.
On night two my bedtime story was titled “The
Ghost of Oupoort”. Below the story, Bushmans
Kloof team wished me good night. I fell asleep on
both nights, literally purring in total bliss.
A lovely hot shower and blissfully comfortable
bed completed my first day. On day two, I relaxed
for about an hour in a steaming hot bath, the
aroma of bath salts swirling around me.
Breakfast daily was a buffet feast and/or tradi-
tional English breakfast.
En-route to the annual Ceder Tree Event in
the mountains on the Saturday, Koro Lodge was
pointed out. This private lodge is for families with
children, or groups of friends, and comes with a
private chef.
An opportunity to join a new-found friend,
Carol, presented itself on night two. She showed
me amazing photos of the buffet she had the
previous night at Kadoro, originally a shepherd’s
burning candles. Bushmans Kloof has a variety of
and more.
options and settings for dinners, picnics
A self-confessed spa junkie, Carol told me her
experience at the spa was exquisite. She rated
 The Oyster Box
Voted No 1. ‘Top Hotel in Sou th Africa’
in TripAdv isor Travel l ers’ Choice Awards 2017

THE RED CAR NAT I O N HOT E L CO LLEC T I O N

Red Carnation Hotels are a collection of family-run, award-winning boutique hotels in South Africa,
the UK, Ireland, Switzerland and the USA. Each hotel is a landmark of history and tradition, with
a peerless reputation for exquisite fine dining, leading spas and sumptuous surroundings. We are
renowned for delivering warm, thoughtful and highly personalised service.

TH E OYS T ER B OX – Um h la n g a
TH E TW E LV E A PO S T LES H OT EL A N D S PA – C a p e Tow n
BU S H M A N S K LOOF W I LD ER N ES S R ES ERV E – Wes te rn C a p e
w w w.Re dCar nat i o n.co m

Village Life l South Africa | 113

 COME SHARK CAGE DIVING WITH US

Have the f
Experienceeo
a Lifetim

www.sharkcagediving.co.za
BOOKINGS: +27 82 559 6858. | EMAIL: info@sharkcagediving.co.za

JOIN OUR SHARK &

MARINE RESEARCH
PROGRAMME

BE INVOLVED IN GROUNDBREAKING RESEARCH AND CONTRIBUTE TO MARINE

CONSERVATION IN THE GREAT WHITE SHARK CAPITAL OF THE WORLD!

www.sharkcagediving.co.za/volunteer-programme-introduction/
TEL: +27 72 796 6799 | EMAIL: volunteer@sharkcagediving.co.za

114 Globerovers · July 2018

 Photo: Janet-Lynn Vorster

CHASING WAVES
Inspired by an interview with
Stefan Pheiffer
the third in our series

What to do in Cape Town when the
south easterly wind is pumping insanely
with speeds of around 55 km per hour?
comes to ocean sports around the Cape,
Amber is well-informed.
To learn kitesurfing, Amber suggests
booking three lessons over three days in
Langebaan, 132 km from Cape Town via
the R27. Langebaan lagoon has great wind,
and is shallow without waves, which is the
safest place for beginners to literally learn
the ropes and find their feet.
The lagoon is in close proximity to
many kiteboarding schools. Lessons come
leaving. The equipment (not cheap) com-
prises a wetsuit, board, and various kites
suited to different wind conditions.
Amber suggests progressing from
the lagoon at Langebaan to Kite Beach
between Sunset Beach and Big Bay in
Blouberg. From here, once you have mas-
tered these conditions, you can attempt the
incredible windspeeds and gigantic waves
at Witsand and Scarborough near Cape
Point.

Head down to the beach of course!
To kiteboard.
Stefan is not a kiteboarder, but a hard
core bodyboarder. However, in our most
recent chat his exciting rendition of this
crazy and fast adrenalin sport inspired
me so much that I just had to find out
more. I have since watched the guys (and
gals) kiteboarding, and find it completely
enthralling. It seems to me like a combo of
kite flying, skiing and flying!
I met with Amber, to ask her how
travellers can experience this popular
Cape Town and West Coast sport. Amber
provides tips, advice and information to
travellers visiting Cape Town. When it
with an instructor and kitesurfing equip- If it is a thrill you are seeking, make the
ment. Acquiring a kite and board and waves in Cape Town your holiday play-
heading for the open sea without any expe- ground.
rience is a very bad idea. Here is a guide- In the upcoming December edition of
line of what to expect from these lessons: “Chasing Waves”, Stefan chats to me about
1. Stand on the beach and get your surfing on the West Coast.
kite airborne. Learn to play with
the wind and to handle a kite. Plan your trip to Cape Town with
2. Get into the water, stand on the Amber:
board, and at the same time get www.cmycities.com/south-africa/#capetown
your kite into the air. Follow Stefan at:
www.instagram.com/stefan5fer
3. Kiteboard across the lagoon, turn
around and come back.
Once ready to kitesurf on your own, CHASING WAVES continues in the next issue
equipment can be rented or bought. Most of Globerovers Magazine.
people buy, and then sell it again before
Village Life l South Africa | 115
 “ Here is a place
where you will
feel welcome and
experience a home
away from home.
I know I did”.
Photos: Hermanus Boutique Guest House

South Africa’s favourite guest house in Hermanus along the Cape Whale Coast

For reservations, visit:

hermanusguesthouse.co.za
Tel local: 028 313 1433
Tel Intl: +27 28 313 1433
reservations@hermanusguesthouse.co.za

Follow us:

@HermanusGH

HermanusGuesthouse

116 Globerovers · July 2018

 Hermanus @ South Africa’s Cape Whale Coast

Follow Burgundy:
www.burgundyrestaurant.co.za

@BurgundyHer

burgundyhermanusrestaurant

NATIONAL MONUMENT

Village Life l South Africa | 117

 Tasty Traveller's Treats
Authentic, affordable, clean food is every traveller’s dream.
Enjoy these tasty morsels from far-away places.

Bali Island, Indonesia Java Island, Indonesia Flores Island, Indonesia

Lombok Island, Indonesia

118 Globerovers · July 2018

 119
os va
La do
ol
n M
ta
zs
r gy os
Ky La
n
pa
Ja
ay os
w La
or
N
e
or
ap
ng
Si
a
re
Ko
th ng
or
N Ko
g
on
H
ru
Pe
r ia
Sy
ca
ri nd
Af la
ut
h ai
So Th
an a
en Ir in
ed ic
o Ch
Sw ex n
M
pa
Ja
Photo Essay
Vietnam

120 Globerovers · July 2018

 Vietnam
Trekking around Sapa
Endless rice terraces, friendly hill-tribes, aromatic coffee...

V ietnam’s far north, close to the southeastern bor-

der of China’s Yunnan Province, is known as the
“Land of the Big Skies”. Here, tranquillity prevails
over the vast cascading rice terraces and rippled
mountains covered in low-hanging fog.

The region is home to many indigenous hill tribes, welcom-

ing travellers who go on single or multi-day hikes from the
town of Sapa.

Sapa was first inhabited by highland minorities such as the

Black and Flower Hmong, the Yao, and the Tay and Giay.
Today these four minority groups share the region with the
Red Dzao and the Zai people.

Between treks, enjoy the stunning views from your Sapa

guesthouse where almost every guesthouse has views
over the deep terraced valleys. Visit the authentic markets
and enjoy the superb local Vietnamese coffee.

Getting to Sapa is a thrilling experience. A few daytime and

overnight sleeper trains travel from Hanoi to the small town
of Lao Cai from where an exhilarating 38 km (24 mi) ride in
a bus, jeep or taxi reaches Sapa in the high hills.

First sights upon arrival in Sapa will be the colourful Black

Hmong and Red Dzao people. Through the heavy fog, you
may see the impressive Fansipan Mountains, the highest in
Indochina at 3,142 metres (10,308 ft). As you sip a hot and
strong Vietnamese coffee, you will realize you came to the
right place where tranquillity rules!

Photo Essay l Vietnam |121

 Sapa Town
Vietnam

Holy Rosary Church (The Stone Church).

122 Globerovers · July 2018

Photo Essay l Vietnam | 123
 Sapa Town
Vietnam

124 Globerovers · July 2018

Photo Essay l Vietnam | 125
 Ta Van
Vietnam

126 Globerovers · July 2018

Photo Essay l Vietnam | 127
128 Globerovers · July 2018
 Hua Thao
Vietnam

Photo Essay l Vietnam | 129

 Cat Cat
Vietnam

130 Globerovers · July 2018

Photo Essay l Vietnam | 131
 Dempster Highway Arctic Canada
Words and Photos by Yrene Dee, a Lumby (British Columbia, Canada), based writer and adventurer.

The 741 km long Dempster High-
way stretches from Dawson City in
Canada’s Yukon Territory up north to
Inuvik in the Northwest Territories. It
is one of the world’s most spectacu-
lar road trips and is the only road in
Canada that crosses the Arctic Circle.
The route calls for a fantastic
journey through an ever-changing
landscape of mountains, open tun-
dra, rivers and bogs. The road takes
you into the land of the midnight sun,
where you have 24 hours of daylight.
An all gravel surface to protect the
permafrost, which the road sits on,
the road is like a raised bridge with
no sides. If the permafrost melted, the
road would sink.
I was nervous about the challenge
I was about to undertake, but the thrill
of adventure was stirring wildly.
My road trip to the Arctic started
far south in the Okanagan Valley, Brit-
ish Columbia, ten days before reach-
ing the start of the Dempster Highway
at Dawson City.
My Toyota RAV4 was equipped
with the best all-season tyres I could
find, so I was well prepared for the
journey ahead. I realized early during
my trip that things would be rough.
The front windshield of my vehicle
was rock-chipped before I even
reached the Yukon border. Lesson
learned: always come to a full stop retains some of the gold rush vibe.
whenever a semi-truck approaches to By the time I arrived at Tombstone
limit the amount and severity of rocks Mountain Territorial Park, 72 km north-
hitting the windshield. east along the gravel highway, my car
was covered in dust; my throat was
I took a break from my journey in
dry, and my head was throbbing from
the Wild West town of Dawson City,
manoeuvring through the rough ter-
with my small tent squeezed between
large RVs at Dawson’s main camp- rain. I stopped briefly to marvel at the
ground. Being aware of the remote- superb views of the Tombstone Moun-
ness and solitude of the road ahead, tains, filled up my water bottle at the
I didn’t mind the hustle and bustle Interpretive Centre and inquired about
of Dawson and tried to take in some the road ahead. “Keep driving to make
of its vibes and Klondike history. it across Eagle Plains another 300 km
The Klondike region lies around the north. Rain is in the forecast!” I was
small Klondike River, which flows into advised.
the Yukon River near Dawson City. I continued on the rough stretch
Famed for its “Klondike Gold Rush” across the Ogilvie Mountains and
of the late 1800’s, Dawson City still scaled the North Fork Pass (1,289 m),
All you need for this trip is an adventurous spirit, a reliable vehicle,
excellent tyres, a couple of spares, and a jerrycan with extra gasoline.
Arctic Canada’s scenic Dempster Highway.

132132 Globerovers
Globerovers · July
l July 2018
2018
the highest elevation on the highway. Beaufort Sea is scattered with tens of
thousands of small lakes!
My adrenaline jumped a mile high

Canada
when I heard an aircraft engine just It was an amazing feeling to reach
as I was approaching the part of the the end of the legendary Dempster
Dempster that is often used as an Highway and arrive in Inuvik, a sleepy
airstrip. Luckily, the plane flew by. town that saw its glory days during the
gas and oil boom in the 1990s. Today,
Climbing and descending through 150 km north of Inuvik. Another story,
the town is a vibrant mix of Inuvialuit
the Eagle Plains and the subarctic for another adventure!
(Western Canadian Inuit people), the
tundra, I made it to the halfway point
Athabaskan-speaking Gwich’in peo- As I stood here in Inuvik, thankful
at the Eagle Plains Hotel, where I
ple, and some non-native residents. that I made it to the end of the Demp-
camped for the night and topped up
Inuvik is Mile 0 on the brand-new Inu- ster Highway, I quickly remembered
the gas tank.
vik to Tuktoyaktuk Highway. Tuktoyak- that my journey was just beginning
Thick, heavy fog and drizzling rain tuk is located in the extreme far north and that it was a long drive back to
greeted me the next morning, warn- of Canada along the Beaufort Sea, Dawson City.
ing me about what was yet to come.
Nothing was going to be like the day
before. The clouds hung low over the
barren land when I reached the Arctic
Circle at the 405 km marker. From
here the highway turned into a deep
muddy track and I had to travel at
walking speed for about 50 km to the
Yukon/Northwest Territories border.
Once I passed Midway Lake, the road
conditions slowly improved.
Soon after crossing the Peel
River I reached the tiny Athabaskan-
speaking Gwich’in Dene village of Fort
McPherson, known for its traditional Iglu Church in Inuvik, Northwest Territories. Welcome to Dawson City.
Tent and Canvas Shop.
The last thrill of the day was the
rough Mackenzie River ferry crossing
at the 608 km marker further north-
east of Fort McPherson. The area
from here all the way north to the

Entering Canada’s Northwest Territories.

Dawson City, Yukon.

Yrene is the founder of BackcountryCanadaTravel.com. She was born in

Switzerland, lived and worked on different continents and travelled the
world before she settled in Canada. She is an entrepreneur, wilderness
nut, and animal lover who prefers off-the-beaten-track places.
Follow Yrene on Twitter @backcountrycana, and Facebook @ backcountrycanada
“Back Country Canada Travel” Toyota RAV4.

Contribution l Canada |133

133
 Article

Laos
Luang Prabang’s Novice Monks
Rise before sunrise to witness the Buddhist ritual of
barefoot saffron-clad monks collecting alms at sunrise
- known as tak bat.

134 Globerovers · July 2018

 Laos
Land of a Million Elephants

L
Laos is diverse and rich in scenery and activities, catering to the needs of most adventurers,
culture seekers, Buddhist aficionados, and even the foodies!

aos is more renowned as “the most Most travellers who have visited Laos are
heavily bombed country in history left with memories of friendly people, colourful
relative to the size of its population” temples, monasteries and monks, the mighty Me-
than as a popular tourist destination. kong River, dense tropical jungles, and rice paddy
During the Vietnam War, the US Army workers surrounded by imposing limestone rocks.
dropped about two million tons of ordnance dur- While I have come to see it all, my calling was
ing 580,000 bombing missions, mostly in the to share a few days in the lives of the ethnically
western region of the north and the entire south- diverse tribes, the monks and their monasteries,
ern region of Laos. This is equal to a planeload of all in harmony with the Mekong River.  
bombs every 8 minutes, 24-hours a day, starting While only about 60% of the Lao people are
in 1964 and lasting until 1973. All this in an effort Buddhist, compared with 95% in Thailand, 90%
to disrupt supply lines being used by the commu- in Cambodia, and 88% in Myanmar, in Vien-
nist Vietnamese forces. tiane and Luang Prabang Buddhist temples and
Though the bombing ended in Laos in 1973, monasteries are found around almost every cor-
over the next two years a Vietnam and Soviet- ner. Luang Prabang is known particularly for its
backed civil war raged and brought the commu- many temples, monasteries, and barefoot saffron-

Lan Xang
nists of the Pathet clad monks collecting
Lao political party Laos used to be known as , meaning alms at sunrise.  
into power. 
While the com-
The Land of a Million Elephants
“
Start the journey
”. After years of in the Lao capital of
munists of the Lao war and loss of habitat, there are not many left... Vientiane, the most
People’s Revolution- popular entry point
ary Party (LPRP) remain in power today, the war to the country. From here, travel about 160 km
is long forgotten.  north to Vang Vieng, a popular town among
Once you have travelled through this narrow backpackers, known for its relaxing vibes and
country, which shares a border with Vietnam of excellent hiking among limestone karst with steep
over 2,000 km long, and a border with Thailand cliffs and rice paddies.
of almost 1,800 km long, you will know that the From Vang Vieng, the winding road snakes
war is not talked about. Except for the estimated over high mountain passes, often covered in thick
80 million cluster bombs that did not detonate, fog, before descending into Luang Prabang. After
most of which are still buried in the jungles and a few days in and around this lovely town with its
farmlands, few signs remain of the war. many temples and hill tribes, head north along
Since the war ended, over 20,000 people have the Mekong, and then down to the most southern
been killed or injured by unexploded ordnance. point of the country to explore some of the 4,000
Efforts to clear these dangers are ongoing, so islands smack in the middle of the Mekong River. 
accidents have decreased from 310 cases back in Come along as we find out what makes Laos
2008, to about 50 per year nowadays.  such a special destination to travellers.

Article l Laos | 135

Laos

THE LAO CAPITAL - VIENTIANE
The languid former French trading post
is slowly waking up to the world.
structure in 1566 when he moved the Lao
capital from Luang Prabang to Vientiane.
The King’s statue stands in front of the
main entrance to Pha That Luang. Looted
of much of its gold plates by the Burmese,
Chinese and Siamese during invasions in
the 18th and 19th centuries, it was all but
tiny Buddha images and rows with tens
of larger seated Buddhas dating back to
the 16th and 19th centuries. If you count
all the Buddha images made from wood,
stone and bronze, you may get a total of
6,800 in total! 
Built in 1818 on the order of King

L
ocated on the banks of the
Mekong River near the border
with Thailand, Vientiane is not
the sleepy town it used to be, though it
still seems to be dreaming. Most travellers
who have walked through the arch of the
Patuxai, Vientiane’s Gate of Triumph and
the Lao version of the French Arc de Tri-
omphe, will agree that Vientiane was not
their reason for visiting this country.
While the capital cities of neigh-
bouring Thailand, Myanmar, Vietnam,
and even Cambodia can keep travellers
entertained
for days, if not
weeks on end,
The laid-backcapital of Laos
the Lao capital historic old quarter with golden temples and the French between 1936
remains a
rather sub- Buddhist monks, surrounded by wide boulevards. and 1942. In
dued town.
Vientiane, which became the capital
of the Kingdom of Lan Xang (now Laos) in
1563, was invaded and looted (they
took back the Emerald Buddha) by the
Siam forces (now Thailand) in 1778, and
again looted by the Siamese during the Lao Kaew, nearby Wat Si Saket is famous for
Rebellion (1826-1828).
Among the most notable attrac-
tions not to miss are the Pha That Luang
stupa, Haw Phra Kaew temple which is
the former home of the Emerald Buddha,
the Patuxai Arch, and the lazy barbe-
cue dinner evenings along the Mekong
River.
destroyed by the Siamese invasion in 1828.
The stupa was restored by the French colo-
nialists in 1900 and reconstructed in 1930,
and again after World War II.
During November every year, the stupa
is the centre-point of the annual Boun That
Luang Festival.  temples in Laos.
HAW PHRA KAEW
First built in 1565 to house the
Emerald Buddha, which now resides in
Bangkok’s Grand Palace, Haw Phra Kaew
has been rebuilt several times, most no-
tably by King
has a tranquil
Anouvong
in 1816, and
the 1970’s the
temple was converted from a place of wor-
ship to a museum of Lao religious art. 
WAT SI SAKET
Very similar in design to Haw Phra
its cloister wall housing thousands of
Anouvong, the temple served as the lodg-
ing place of the 1928 Siamese invaders and
was therefore spared destruction. 
Wat Si Saket was restored by the
French in 1924 and 1930 and is now
regarded as one of the oldest Buddhist
WAT SI MUANG
Just about 1 km to the southeast
of Haw Phra Kaew and Wat Si Saket is
the 16th century Wat Si Muan temple.
Destroyed during the Siamese invasion in
1828, it was rebuilt a few times. The cur-
rent temple dates back to 1915.
While the building itself is fairly un-
remarkable, legend has it that the temple
was named after a woman called Si Muang,
who sacrificed herself to appease the evil
spirits by throwing herself into the pit that
holds the central pillar of the structure.
Look out for a small statue of this lady at
the temple.
Many worshippers come here to
make merit and be blessed by the resident
monks. The temple was also home to an
old and rather bad-tempered and territo-
rial stork, though it recently passed away.

PHA THAT LUANG

Known as the “Great Stupa”, Pha That
Luang is the most sacred Buddhist stupa
and a national symbol of Laos. This large
golden stupa dates back to the 16th cen-
tury and stands 45 metres high. According
to folklore, a Hindu temple first occupied
this spot during the 1st to 3rd centuries to
house a holy relic, likely a breastbone, of
the Lord Buddha, brought to Laos by an
Indian missionary.
During the 13th century, a new Khmer
temple replaced the original. However, Guardian of the
King Setthathirat erected the current Wat Si Muan temple. Patuxai Arch.
136 Globerovers · July 2018
PATUXAI ARCH was inhabited by a seven-headed dragon here and live in the adjacent blue, red and
The Victory Gate or Gate of Triumph, or snake that tried to protect them from white monastery.
known among travellers as the “Arc de Tri- the invading Siamese.
omphe of Vientiane”, was constructed be- Standing on a quiet roundabout near TAD MOUN WATERFALL
tween 1957 and 1968 to honour those who the Talat Sao morning market, the crum-
fought in the struggle for independence bling and weatherworn structure seems to About 20 km west of Vientiane, located
from its earlier occupiers: France, Siam be totally unbeloved and neglected. How- at the southern tip of the Phou Phanang
and Japan.  ever, being so obscure, non-glittering, and National Bio-Diversity Conservation
almost natural looking, the stupa shows Area, Tad Moun Waterfall, though more
The Royal Laotian Government built
“its unadorned self ”,  and one can stare at akin to mild rapids, makes for a pleas-
the monument by reassigning American
it and imagine its turbulent history. ant day visit out of the city. Spend the
funds intended to build a new airport,
hence its nickname of the “vertical run- day hiking through the jungle, splashing
way”.   in the rapids, or just lazing under the small
WAT ONG TEU MAHAWIHAN thatched huts while enjoying a picnic
Known originally as the Anousavali Famous for its large bronze Phra Ong lunch and Beer Lao.
(memory) monument, it got its current Teu Buddha image, the largest Buddha in
name when the Pathet Lao communists Vientiane, the temple was constructed dur-
overthrew the Lao monarchy during the ing the 16th century by King Setthathirat. MEKONG RIVER SUNSETS
1975 Laotian Civil War. AND NIGHT MARKET 
Demolished by the Burmese and
For a small entrance fee, climb to the Siamese invaders, the temple has been After a long day of temples and mon-
top of the arch for panoramic views of reconstructed several times. asteries, check out the Vientiane night
Vientiane and Thailand across the Mekong market for some interesting foods, and
The temple is known as an educational
River. then go and grab a few beers and enjoy the
institute teaching Theravada Buddhism.
Hidden behind a large, ornamented gate, sun’s spectacular show as it sets over the
THAT DAM the temple’s cold floor tiles and rich archi- Mekong River.
Known as the “black stupa”, That tecture is a welcome retreat from the heat A festive atmosphere rules as people,
Dam used to be covered in gold until it all and noise of the Vientiane streets. sitting at their blue and red plastic chairs
disappeared during the Siamese invasion You most likely will come across sev- and tables, drink Lao Beer and watch the
in 1828. According to local folklore, it once eral bright orange-robed monks who study sunset over the slow-flowing river.

Old house in Vientiane.

Sunset over the Mekong. Fried insects for dinner.

Wat Si Saket. That Dam. Novice monk, Wat Ing Peng.

Article l Laos | 137
Laos

VANG VIENG
Where the peaceful natural beauty is
only interrupted by rice paddy workers.
exploring the caves, tubing down the river, and large groups.
kayaking, and swimming in the lagoons, Vang Vieng will never be the same. 
too many travellers came here for the
If the action on the main street is not
rough parties of endless drinking, smok-
for you, it is easy to escape. Head across
ing, and the beer bars serving pasta and
the river for some tranquillity, where basic
pizzas along the main drag.
as well as more luxurious cottages are lo-
Slowly they would get stoned while cated on the west bank of the river. Highly
watching pirated copies of Seinfeld and

O
recommended are the Pasanchai Bunga-
n the eastern banks of Friends at the bars decorated with Rasta- lows right next to the river.
the Nam Song River, just 160 farian flags.
Hire a bicycle, cross the river to the
km north of Vientiane on the Some stayed for days on end, some west side, and just follow the small roads
Luang Prabang road, lies the small town of never left, some even died. 
leading past an uncountable number
Vang Vieng. The town, settled in the 14th Fortunately, a few years ago the gov- of limestone karsts and rice paddies. Don’t
century, was originally known as Mouang ernment intervened and now the place is hesitate to interact with the locals, even
Song but was renamed by the French colo- no longer its former hedonistic playground
while they are tending to their rice pad-
nial rulers in the 1890’s as Vang Vieng.  but has become more subdued, and the dies. These people are generally welcoming
The area’s towering limestone karst natural surroundings are once again the and not too camera shy, but always ask
with mysterious caves, combined with the main course on the menu. permission before clicking away. 
town’s location
next to the Vang Vieng has recently been reborn after years of travellerThe type While Vang Vieng is not the place
where you would come and search for
Nam Song
River, created of being an out-of-control party-den for backpackers. coming to
Vang Vieng
authentic Lao culture, cycling out of town
a reputation of
a remote des-
Now the focus is again onnature and tranquility . has changed
in the process,
tination where adventure and relaxation with more Asian visitors such as Chinese
lived side by side. people often arriving in large groups. The
Over the past two decades, it has type of accommodation is also changing
become a popular place for backpackers from being mostly basic backpacker lodg-
in search of nirvana. While some came ing to larger hotels such as the Riverside
for the hiking, cycling among rice pad- Boutique Resort and the Amari Vang
dies, climbing of the sheer limestone cliffs, Vieng, catering to more upscale clientele

138 Globerovers · July 2018

does offer ample opportunities to interact
with the locals and to witness their tradi-
tional way of life.   Done exploring the cave, head back
About 8 km to the west of town near
the village of Ban Na Thong, lies Tham Phu
Kham cave and a beautiful bluish lagoon.
The road you will travel to get here is
beautiful as it passes through the coun-
tryside littered with karst rock forma-
tions, tiny villages and endless rice pad-
dies.
The cave’s entrance is about halfway
up the limestone cliff along a hiking trail
through the lush forest. The climb to the
entrance is steep in some sections, but
a handrail is available for a good grip.
It’s worth the climb as the cave offers a
labyrinth of chambers decorated with sta-
lagmites and stalactites. A large reclining
Buddha in the first chamber will welcome
you. With a flashlight and some help
from the streaming sunrays, you can ex-
plore vast areas of the cave system.
down and plunge in the crystal-clear
waters of the lagoon, a serene natural para-
dise. Local kids jumping from the trees
into the lagoon will likely entertain you.
Vang Vieng is a pleasant stop
between Vientiane and Luang
Prabang - though you may not
want to leave again.
Hard to believe that from the 1950’s
to 1970’s this area was home to an Ameri-
can air base known as Lima Site 6, along
Route 13, from where bombing raids were
launched. Of the asphalt airstrip, little but
a crumbled potholed strip is still visible,
with most of the visiting travellers unaware
of it and its history.
Despite Vang Vieng not being the
sleepy village it used to be some time ago,
and the changing demographics in recent
years, it remains a beautiful place where
tranquillity is not far away. Here you can
cycle for hours among some of the most
beautiful natural scenery you have ever
come across. Lakes, lagoons, rivers, caves
with underground lagoons, and so much
natural beauty.
If you have travelled around Laos to
enjoy the local cuisines, which may not
always be as delicious as you were hop-
ing for, you will be happy to know that
your old favourite dishes are available in
Vang Vieng. Try the Thai and Chinese
restaurants, pizzas, burgers, and some
great French-owned bakeries. Le Cafe de
Paris and Gary’s Irish Bar will not disap-
point you.
Article l Laos | 139
 LIMESTONE KARST MOUNTAINS OUTSIDE VANG VIENG
The countryside outside Vang Vieng is dominated by rice fields that stretch
between towering limestone karsts. Several hiking paths lead from the town
into the beautiful countryside where you can cycle and meet the friendly
locals. Stop to cool down in a blue swimming hole and explore some of the
many interesting caves. Don’t hesitate to try the local food and Beer Lao at
one of the many small family-run restaurants in the area.

140 Globerovers · July 2018

Article l Laos | 141
Laos

142 Globerovers · July 2018


ROAD TO LUANG PRABANG
It’s the journey that counts and not the
destination. So true for this road!
O
nce you are done with Vang
Vieng, hop onto one of the
many public buses, “VIP
buses”, minivans, or cars, which head up
northwest to Luang Prabang on the scenic,
winding, and nauseating mountain road.
The “original” road goes from Vang
Vieng on Road 13 through Kasi, Vieng
Kham, and Phou Khoun and takes roughly
six to seven hours, depending on which
vehicle you choose, how many stops it
makes, and how long passengers spend
at each stop. Unscheduled stops are
often required for dizzy and nauseous
tourists, in particular those who chose the
minivans. The road is very scenic and a
stop or two in the high elevations is usually well-being of the Hmong and their un-
on the cards.
The Hmong people are some of the
poorest people of Laos living along this
route. They are increasingly catering to
the needs of the visiting tourists, but still
mostly go about their own way of life. As
the ladies are selling their farm produce
and ready-to-eat fried foods, the kids play
along the main road, chasing puppies and
harassing the chickens. Vans, buses and
cars speed through these villages and I
wonder how often these kids get run over.
Life at this high elevation is tough, as this food. Don’t fear. If the Lao people can
you will see etched on the locals’ faces.
High elevation villages are often shrouded
in fog and smog, and it can get quite cold.
There seems to be a constant slash-and-
burning of the hills with a thick smoke-
haze blocking out the blue sky. Many of
the fire-ravaged hills are left with brown
scars, devoid of the green jungle it once
was. Unfortunately, the Lao government
is too busy entertaining the Chinese Gov-
ernment’s investments in hydroelectricity
The mountain road from Vang Vieng to Laung follows
pure sensory
Prabang is a adventure.
projects and large-scale food production
for the China market to care about the
sustainable exploitation of their natural
environment.
The food stalls sell interesting lo-
cal Hmong delicacies, including
“khai look”, a boiled duck egg with an
embryo that is eaten from the shell. You
will also find “mok pa” which is catfish, or
other local river fish, steamed in fresh ba- your destination!
nana leaves. Sun-dried strips of beef jerkies
called “sien savahn”, and some “sai oua”
or “sai gork” Lao sausages are also usually
on offer. It is a sensory experience to try
eat it, then so can we all.
The so-called “new road” between
Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang is an
upgraded old road which forks west at
Kasi through the mountains to Road 4
from where it later rejoins Road 13 just
before arrival at Luang Prabang. The new
road takes about five hours, so is about
one to two hours faster, mainly because
there are less scenic points to stop at, and
it is less winding than the old route. If you
have a choice, take transportation that
the old road all the way via
Road 13, but before boarding tell the
driver to please take it easy and to get
you to Luang Prabang alive. Make sure
he will at least stop at a few scenic spots
along the way. Having a private car and
driver is the most desirable way to do this
route. Note that there have been incidences
of violence along this route, and further
off the route, though not directly target-
ing foreign travellers. Also note that large
buses can only take the old route due to
steep hills on the new route.
You will be relieved when you arrive at
Article l Laos | 143
Laos

Wat Wisunalat.

food? You will find plenty of great res- Want to barter for colourful Lao um-
taurants here. Or how about learning the brellas at a night market, or even buy an
skills of traditional Lao cooking where you elephant made out of the remnants of a
LUANG PRABANG will prepare Lao favourites such as mok pa diffused Vietnam War bomb? Luang Pra-
Where you can stay for a long time and (the steamed fish in banana leaves that bang night market is waiting for you.
still not get enough. you tried on the road from Vang Vieng) Depending on your interests, you will
or Larb, the “national dish of Lao”, which isfind something very special about Luang

D
a minced meat and herb salad.  Prabang, if not within the town then cer-
esignated a UNESCO World
Heritage Site in recognition of If you are into anthropology you have tainly on the outskirts and surrounding area.
its unique blending of tradi- come to the right part of the world to learn One of the reasons many people come
tional Lao temples with French colonial about the hill tribes of the region. here is to appreciate and photograph a
buildings, Luang Prabang will in some way Are you into outdoors activities? The special event which plays out around town
or another appeal to you. While it has be- area around town has enough waterfalls, at sunrise.
come a popular tourist destination, While most people are still
there is so much available around Luang Prabang is famous for its laid-back sleeping, some are lining up along
town, that you are bound to fall in
love with at least a few things that atmosphere, glittering temples and monasteries, the streets of Luang Prabang to wit-
ness the Buddhist ritual of receiv-
the town and surroundings offer. 
wandering monks, and variety of guest houses. ing early morning alms. Known
If you are into sleepy laid-back as tak bat, the barefooted saffron-
river towns to chill out for a few days, you hiking trails, mountain climbing, spelunk- clad monks walk single file, oldest first,
will find one in Luang Prabang. If you like ing, zip-lining through the jungle, and carrying their orange, copper and silver
temples, monasteries, monks, and even a boating or tubing on the mighty Mekong alms bowls in front of them as they are
royal palace museum, you will find more River to keep you busy for weeks on end. receiving their daily alms from the local
than you most likely found anywhere else. Do you want to try your hand at devotees making merit.
Do you appreciate delicious Western and ploughing the rice fields with a water buf- Nobody speaks during this ritual as
Asian cuisines, and even traditional Lao falo? That can easily be arranged. the monks walk in meditation and the
144 Globerovers · July 2018

Wat Xieng Thong.
almsgivers respect this symbiotic relation-
ship by not disturbing their peace.  tourists to act irresponsibly and with-
The alms include mostly the Lao staple
of sticky rice, but can also include soups,
curry, fruits, water, and even meat. For
both the monks and the almsgivers, this is
a special time of the day. Most laypeople
will be kneeling in front of the monks,
with the older monks often doing a short
blessing ceremony. 
The experience of being here is quite
humbling, though some tourists think this
is a cultural show to entertain them, so
they stand right along the monks’ path-
way to photograph them, complete with
their bright flashing cameras.
Monastery of Wat Nong Sikhunmeuang.
Sadly, the growing popularity among those with cameras, keep a respectful
distance and do not use flashlights. This is
out respect may eventually result in the also not the time or place to walk around
elimination of this ancient ritual. in your sexy beachwear!
To avoid the many tourists, and it is
Located in the heart of the not as bad as it sounds, visit during the
wet season. This means afternoon showers
mountainous region, it is a with plenty of sunshine during the rest of
great base from where to the day.
explore northern Laos. The wettest months are August and
September when there may be flooding
around the Mekong River. The wet season
Many monks and devotees do not want has the least tourists and you may often
to be part of these photo sessions as they find yourself quite alone, which is great.
cause offence to their spiritual redemption. Best is to avoid peak season, which is De-
It is crucial that all tourists, in particular cember and January.
Article l Laos | 145
146 Globerovers · July 2018
THE TOWN OF LAUNG PRABANG VIEWED FROM PHU SI HILL
Luang Prabang is located at the confluence of the Mekong and the Nam Khan river,
surround by verdant greenery and rolling mountains. Views from Phu Si Hill high above
the town reveal its many temples and the patchwork of traditional Lao red-roofed
wooden houses with a touch of European architecture reminiscent of its French colonial
past. The mountains are home to the many hill tribes of northern Laos.

Article l Laos | 147

Laos

A second prominent ethnic group is The Hmong people who live around

THE HILL TRIBES
Spending a day in the life of the hill
tribes is a highlight of this region.
the Hmong who descended from the Yel-
low River basin of central China before
settling in the southern provinces of China
during the 18th century. Since then many
have migrated to the rugged uplands of
northern Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, and
the eastern parts of Myanmar. The Hmong
Luang Prabang are generally not well-
to-do and are often in need of basic ne-
cessities. However, they are friendly to-
wards visiting travellers. They live in
the hills and highlands, with their homes
built on bare earth, rather than raised
above the ground on stilts. Many homes

T
people’s cultural life and religious beliefs are without any significant flooring, other
he northern part of Laos is
are extremely interesting, and it is a re- than a clay floor. Houses consist of one or
home to several ethnic minori-
warding experience to spend a day or more two rooms, with the entire family sleeping
ties such as the Khmu, Hmong on raised bamboo beds.
among these people. With the help of a
and the Yuan. The Khmu people build
local guide who can be the translator, you Make sure to meet the local shaman
their houses on two levels, with the main
will be amazed at the stories they tell.  of the village, who is the person believed
living area elevated on stilts to protect
them from invading animals and crit-
ters. They live in the lowlands as well as
in the green belt halfway up the hills. The
ethnic Lao people regard the Khmu as the
first inhabitants of the area and they be-
lieve the Khmu have power over the local
spirits. While most are animists, some are
Christians and Buddhist. 

148 Globerovers · July 2018

to possess special powers through ecstatic
religious acts. He is responsible for the reli-
gious and medical well-being of the village
which he does by communicating with
the spiritual world where he often asks for
advice and prophecies.
As a visitor to a Hmong village, it is
good practice to first visit the village chief,
and literally “ask permission” to enter the
village. You will almost always be granted
your request, and probably be invited into
his home, meet his family, and have a cup
of tea.
A day or two, even three or four, are
well spent trekking the lowlands, high-
lands, and the hills in search of the ethnic
tribes of Laos.
Once you have soaked up all the ex-
citement of Luang Prabang and everything
around it, head straight north to the village
of Nong Khiaw along the banks of the
Nam Ou River, then by boat further north
to Muang Ngoi, and continue on to go
trekking in the Muang Khua and Phong-
sali areas. You will be delighted with
northern Laos.
Article l Laos | 149
 VISITING THE CHIEF OF THE VILLAGE
Northern Laos is ethnically diverse with many tribes practicing hunting and
subsistence living in the mountains outside Luang Prabang. Upon entering one
of the many villages it is custom to first meet the village chief to secure permis-
sion to visit. Most chiefs are more than happy to welcome foreign travellers.

150 Globerovers · July 2018

Article l Laos | 151
Laos

152 Globerovers · July 2018


THE MEKONG’S 4,000 ISLANDS
Unquestionably one of the quietest
corners in southeast Asia!
N
o trip to Laos is complete
without a few days of island
hopping in the southern Me-
kong River.
Take a long bus ride, or better yet
fly down to Pakse in the far south of
Laos. From here it is a 2 to 3-hour
RELAX, SLEEP, EAT, DRINK, REPEAT, REPEAT
transfer by bus or minibus to Nakasong
from where a longboat ride takes about 10
minutes to Don Det Island, and about 20
minutes to Don Khon Island. From either
one of these two islands, you can explore
the other bigger and smaller islands.
You can hop around well over 4,000
islands (locally known as Si Phan Don in
the Champasak Region), not surrounded
by seawater, but the murky brown waters
of the mighty Mekong River.
Known in Laos as the Mènam Khong,
at a length of about 4,350 km (2,700 miles)
the Mekong River is the longest river in
Southeast Asia, the 7th longest in Asia, and
the 12th longest river in the world. While
the Mekong River is measured at about
4,350 km, from source to ocean it is almost
5,000 km long! Though, strictly speaking,
the stretch that carries the name “Me-
kong River” is only about 2,700 km long.
Whichever measurement you prefer, it is a
long and mighty river!
The operating words here are
The geographic source of the Me-
kong is a glacier on the north side of
Guosangmucha Mountain at an eleva-
tion of 5,514 m (18,086 ft) on the Tibetan
Plateau. The tiny glacial stream here is
called the Lasagongma, which then flows
into the meandering Gaoshanxigu stream,
which then flows into the Guoyong River
that becomes the Zhaa River and then
merges with the Zhana River. Just before
it crosses from China into Myanmar it is
known as the Lancang River. In Myanmar,
it is known as the Mekong!
From Myanmar, the river flows
through Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and
eventually Vietnam where it flows through
the southern Mekong Delta of Vietnam
and empties into the South China Sea.
In southern Laos, just before the river
crosses into Cambodia, it fans out into a
very wide labyrinth of shallow waterways,
islands and even waterfalls. 
Over many years the river streams
have created thousands of sandy-beach
islands and tiny bushy outcrops. Many
of these islands and bushes are sub-
merged during the wet season while the
larger islands are dotted with small villages,
mostly stretched along the riverfront.
In the lower half of this large area of
river islands are a few islands of interest to
travellers, including the islands of Don Det
and Don Khon, and located much closer
to Pakse, the island of Don Khong (not
to be confused with the most southern of
the three, Don Khon). Located right be-
Article l Laos | 153
Laos

tween Don Khong (to the north) and Don tiny communities, and friendly locals who road” along the river.
Det (to the south) is Don Som island, which seem somewhat aloof. If you have a lot of energy, join a kayak
is also a good option for a peaceful stay. The islands are not known as major tour, advertised by almost every travel
This part of Laos will interest you if party spots. Don Det has more of a back- agency and many guesthouses on the
you love river islands and hanging out packer vibe, especially closer to the very islands. Another great adventure is to rent
around rustic restaurants by the riverside. northern tip around the ferry drop-off a private longboat with skipper for three to
The main reason to come here is to do point. Don Khon is slightly more upscale, four hours to take you around a handful of
nothing. Drink, eat, drink, sleep (on the has more mature visitors, and is also the many islands.
bed, in the hammock, at the restaurant, slightly more expensive. Dolphin tours are also widely ad-
anywhere). Repeat! While the islands were more popular vertised by travel desks on the island.
On more energetic days, rent a $1 about five years ago, nowadays even during The river south of the Somphamit Water-
bicycle for the day and cycle along the the peak season of Christmas and New falls past the southern tip of Don Khon
circular road around Don Det Island, Year accommodation is easily available is known as the home of the freshwater
and across the old French bridge to Don for walk-ins. A local German guesthouse Irrawaddy dolphins. They come close to
Khong Island. Visit Somphamit Waterfalls owner noted the recent decline in visitors, the waterfalls to give birth, as the oxygen
and then cycle all the way down to the which is great news if you are looking for levels are much higher around and below
old Hang Khone French Port on the south- tranquillity. the falls. No tours guarantee any sightings,
ern tip of Don Khong Island. Here you can The islands are quite popular among so it is a matter of luck whether you see the
sit at a cosy riverside restaurant and stare European (French, in particular) families, dolphins.
across the river over the jungle of Cambo- older people, and a fair share of backpack- And so it is time to go back to Pakse
dia while sipping on a Beer Lao and eating ers, the latter who tend to prefer the livelier and off to the airport to fly away. I bet you
a green papaya salad. area at the northern tip of Don Det. have great memories of Laos and will be
Along the way to the south, you will On both islands, most accommodation back soon to do the rest! GR
cycle past water buffaloes, temples, stupas, and restaurants are along the single “main

154 Globerovers · July 2018

 ESSENTIAL
Getting There
Most visitors to Laos fly via Bangkok
into Vientiane, Luang Prabang, or Pakse
airports. By overland, the best crossings
are from Thailand at Nong Khai to reach
Vientiane or Huay Xai to the northeast of
Thailand’s Chiang Mai. To reach Pakse by
land, the crossing is not far from Thai-
land’s Ubon Ratchathani. Also fly via
Vietnam, Cambodia, China, or Malaysia.
When to Go
November to January are the best times
when not excessively hot. This is also a
good time for river travel when high water
levels make passage along the Mekong
River easy. In the rainy season (May to
October) roads are muddy. March to June
is hot, though cooler at high elevations.
Dining Out
Vientiane and Luang Prabang are known
for their culinary delights at upscale
restaurants. Vang Vieng is less blessed
with good eateries, while in the rest of the
country you will need to get used to the
many exotic foods (or non-edible, depend-
ing on your spirit of adventure).
INFORMATION
Getting Around
Getting around Laos is an adventure.
Your choices include barely river-worthy
boats, crowded buses, and aged jalop-
ies with hard seats. Increasingly, fleets of
VIP tourist-grade minivans ply the roads.
While they are more comfortable than
most local transport, some routes can be
nauseating! Lao Airlines and Lao Skyway
are good options. Trains are coming.
Where to Stay
Though the tourist infrastructure in Laos
is much less developed than in Thailand,
the amount and quality of lodging are
improving. Established tourist spots such
as Vientiane, Vang Vieng and Luang
Prabang have many choices, though
less-travelled areas are catching on fast.
Train Journeys
Currently, Laos has just 3 km of railway
tracks connecting the Thai border with
the outskirts of Vientiane. The under-
construction Pan-Asia Railway Network
will introduce a central east-west line
connecting Thailand and Vietnam, and a
Vientiane to China’s Xishuangbanna line.
Photography
Photographing people in their daily life
is generally not a problem. Always follow
the golden rules to take portraits without
people knowing it, or ask first. Be very
discreet when photographing in temples
and always ask permission in monaster-
ies. During morning alms collections, keep
a respectful distance from the monks and
do not use flashlights.
Packing
Your packing depends on where you go
and when you go. While the country is gen-
erally hot, the cooler months of December
to January in the higher elevations can be
quite cold. Outside Vientiane, you should
pack all medication and special items you
need, as stores can be quite basic.
Cost of Travel
Laos caters for all budget sizes and value
for money is generally good, especially in
Luang Prabang. Prices of food, accom-
modation, tours, transport, and about
everything else is very reasonable. If you
want the best deals, head to the far south
to the islands in the Mekong River.
Article l Laos | 155
 9 Must-Do’s in Laos
a z i n g
a m

1 Visit the Hill Tribes of

Luang Prabang
The lowlands and hills surrounding Luang Prabang are
home to several ethnic minorities such as the Khmu,
Hmong and the Yuan people. Just go for a hike outside
town and into the hills, or better yet, book a full day or
even a night or two homestay in a village with a local
guide. The guide will skilfully direct you to the most in-
teresting villages, be a much-needed translator to assist
in communicating with the locals, and obtain permission
from the village chiefs to enter the village.

Meet the shaman of the village and get invited into his
home to hear about the tasks he performs for his village.

It is an eye-opening experience to visit these tribes and

experience a day in their life. Trekking from one village
to another through rugged jungle and hills is a thrilling
experience not to be missed.

2 Meet local rice farmers

outside Vang Vieng 3 Join Luang Prabang monks
collecting alms at sunrise

The major attraction of Vang Vieng is the beautiful natural
setting of the rice paddies among the tree-covered limestone
karsts jutting into the sky.
Rent a bicycle and head into any direction in the tower-
ing landscapes. One of the most beautiful settings can be
reached by crossing the small bridge to the west of town. A
short ride later will place you amongst the rice paddies and
incredibly beautiful scenery. Often you need to put down the
bike to talk to local farmers tending their muddy rice paddies.
The area offers dozens of caves to explore and cool tur-
quoise swimming holes. Continue further west to the village
of Ban Na Thong and its nearby Tham Phu Kham cave and a
beautiful bluish lagoon. It is easy to spend a full day here!
156 Globerovers · July 2018
It is a humbling experience to be part of the daily
”tak bat” ritual when barefooted saffron-clad monks walk
single file, oldest first, carrying their orange, copper and
silver alms bowls in front of them as they receive alms
from the local devotees making merit. Get up before
sunrise to head into the streets of the town. Ask before-
hand which streets are best to see the monks.
Please be invisible while you attend. Bring your longest
lens while leaving your flashgun behind. Sit on the other
side of the street and pretend not to be there. Watch in
silence as the monks walk in meditation and the almsgiv-
ers respect this symbiotic relationship by not disturbing
their peace. And neither should you disturb their medita-
tion. It is a daily religious ritual not to be missed.
 4 Laze around
Mekong islands
If you are interested in island life, as
in river islands, where the motto is
“do nothing”, then this is the place for
you. The reason to come here is to
drink, eat, drink, sleep - on the bed,
in the hammock, at the restaurant,
anywhere. Then repeat!
If after a day you find this a boring
ritual, cycle around the islands to
waterfalls, beaches, old French ports,
and old French locomotives. Then
when tired, get back into the ritual
you came for: drink, eat, drink, sleep,
repeat!
7 Boat rides on the
Mekong River
Join a full-day kayaking tour that will
take you past many islands and stop
at a few waterfalls. Alternatively, hire
a longboat with a skipper and just sit
back and go with the river-flow.
There are 4,000 islands waiting to be
discovered! Even some sandbanks
are worth visiting if you see a small
shack set up to serve the local fisher-
men. They eat simply, noodles and
tea, and may even order a cold beer
from the shore that will take about 5
minutes to arrive. Slow rides on the
Mekong are so magical.
5 Action outside
Vang Vieng
Vang Vieng is a lot more than tranquil
landscapes and rice paddies. While
the extremely disorganized river tub-
ing has been tamed down, there are
many more natural discoveries to
indulge in.
Some of the many activities around
town include hiking, cycling among
the rice paddies, climbing the sheer
limestone cliffs, exploring the caves,
kayaking, hot air ballooning, and
swimming in the small lagoons. And if
you really want to tube down the river,
you may still do it.
8 Monasteries of
Luang Prabang
If you appreciated the early morn-
ing ritual of barefoot saffron-
clad monks walking down the streets
to collect alms, visit them in their
temples and monasteries.
Luang Prabang has more temples and
monasteries that you can manage to
visit in a single trip. Each unique in
their own way. Many temples have a
monastery that is home to the monks.
Don’t be afraid to ask the monks to
show you their living quarters. Visit
the monks inside the “Cave Shrine”
known as Wat Tham Phu Si.
6 Travel along
nauseating roads
Traveling from Vang Vieng to Luang
Prabang, in particular via the “old
road” that winds through the moun-
tain passes, is truly a nauseating
experience. While most people can
tolerate this exhilarating ride, some
people get dizzy and sick.
The narrow winding mountain road
passes through small hill tribe villag-
es, often shrouded in fog, where you
can stop to stretch your legs and fill
your belly with local staples such as
boiled duck egg with an embryo, and
steamed catfish in banana leaves.
9 Vientiane markets
and sunsets
While the Lao capital of Vientiane is
not the most exciting capital city in
Southeast Asia, one of the not-to-be-
missed experiences is the colourful
night market and sunset BBQ dinner
at the Mekong River.
The night market offers delicious,
albeit a bit oily, fried dishes. If the food
does not attract you, try a BBQ dinner
right next to the Mekong River. The
area comes alive just before sunset
when red and blue plastic tables and
chairs are spread out on the grass.
The food is good, and the beer cold.
Article l Laos | 157
158 Globerovers · July 2018
159
 Photo Essay
BELARUS

160
T here are a few countries still frozen in the
Soviet era. Among these are North Korea,
Turkmenistan, Transnistria, and Belarus.
Though hardly comparable with one an-
other, or even to Russia, each of these countries is

Globerovers · July 2018

unique in many ways. Among these places, Belarus
is likely the most easily visited and least bizarre.
Though the KGB is still feared in Belarus under the
dictatorship of Alexander Lukashenko, it is not too
difficult to travel around the country. While most
 A PHOTO JOURNEY THROUGH
BELARUS In this secretive state under dictatorial rule where the KGB
continues to instil fear in its citizens, we found a country with
gentle people and fascinating architecture.

travellers have to apply for a visa and also register
at a police station within a certain number of days of
arrival, exploring this interesting country is not too
challenging. Homestays are possible, and a variety of
hotels are open to foreign visitors. Train travel is fairly
comfortable and major railway lines head in many dir-
ections. In addition to Minsk being an interesting city
with fascinating Lenin-styled architecture, the country
has many exhilarating destinations to explore, without
encountering masses of tourists.

Photo Essay l Belarus | 161

 Minsk
Belarus

Museum and a Palace

The original building of the Museum
of Great Patriotic War (left) and the
Trade Union’s Culture Palace (right)
are prominent buildings in Minsk.
The museum tells the story of the
bloodiest war of the 20th century.
The Culture Palace stages hundreds
of events every year.

Palats Republiki
“Palace of the Republic of Belarus”,
was constructed from 1985 to 2001.
It is used for official state functions
including meetings, conventions,
concerts, symphony orchestras, and
important events. The building is
famous for its impressively large
lavatories with tens of urinals.

KGB Headquarters
One of the few countries that kept the name
“KGB” after the dissolution of the Soviet Union
is the much-feared State Security Agency of the
Republic of Belarus.

Human rights advocates claim that the KGB

continues to play a key role in the violation
of human rights and political repressions in
Belarus.

The building construction began in 1945 and is

the first of Stalin’s many empire style buildings
in Minsk. The KGB building is known to locals
as “Amerikanka”, which refers to the Pre-Trial
Detention Centre (prison) of the KGB of Belarus.
162 Globerovers · July 2018

Belarusian State Circus
Constructed between
1954-58 the stone-built
circus in Minsk was the first
stationary winter circus in
the Soviet Union.
Yakub Kolas Square
The statue of Yakub Kolas,
the folk poet and one of the
founders of the classic Bela-
rusian literature, on the square
named after him in 1956. The
statue dates back to 1972.
Yakub was born in 1882.
Holy Spirit Cathedral
The central cathedral of the
Belarusian Orthodox Church
dates back to 1633-1642 but
was reconstructed after the
devastating 1741 fire.

Victory Square
Soldiers parading at Victory
Square with its 40 m (131 ft)
obelisk erected in 1954 as
a memorial to the country’s
war dead.

Gates of the City of Minsk

Located at the Minsk
Railway Station Square, the
“twin towers” is another
example of Stalin empire
architecture.

Photo Essay l Belarus | 163

 Minsk
Belarus

Independence Square
MINSK

164 Globerovers · July 2018

Independence Square
Located along Independence Avenue in the centre of Minsk, Independence Square was designed to serve as Minsk’s
main ceremonial venue during the Soviet times. The Nazis destroyed most of the buildings around the area during
World War II. Formerly known as Lenin Square, it lost its significance between 1946 and 1984 when nearby October
Square served as the ceremonial heart of Minsk. After the dissolution of the USSR, Independence Square was recon-
structed.

The most prominent building at the square is the House of the Government (in the photo) with a large statue of Vladimir
Lenin in the foreground. Other notable buildings around the square are two state universities and the famous red-brick
Catholic Church of Sts. Simon and Helena.

Photo Essay l Belarus | 165

 Nesvizh
Belarus

Town Hall of Nesvizh

Dating back to the 16th century, the Nesvizh Town Hall was
designed by Italian architect Giovanni Maria Bernardoni.
Even though it has been partially burned down more than
once, it is one of the oldest and best-preserved buildings in
Belarus.

The Nesvizh Castle

Surrounded by a moat and ponds in the river of Usha,
the history of the palace goes back 400 years. For much
of this time it was owned by the powerful Radziwiłł
family, until 1772 when the Russian forces seized it and
expelled the family. They returned in 1881 and were
expelled again by the Soviets in 1939. Since 1994 is
has been the designated national historical and cultural
reserve, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2005.

166 Globerovers · July 2018


Slutsk Brama (Gates)
This Baroque style gate was
built in 1760 and is the only
city gate that remains out of
five in the fortifications of
the city of Nesvizh.
Corpus Christi Church
The church is connected
with the Nesvizh Castle by a
causeway. It is home to the
coffins of 72 members of
the Radziwiłł family.
Benedictine Tower
Castle Memorial The Nesvizh Benedictine
The typical Soviet memorial Sisters Convent was founded
in front of the Nesvizh in 1593. It has a tumultuous
Castle is dedicated to history of invading Russians
the soldiers of the Great and Nazi Germans!
Patriotic War.
Photo Essay l Belarus | 167
 Mir
Belarus
Mirski Zamak (Mir Castle)
Constructed during the early part of the
16th century, the castle is built in Belarusian
Gothic style with five towers surrounding
a courtyard. Initially owned by the Ilyinich
dynasty, it later fell into the hands of the
influential Radziwiłł family who also owned
168 Globerovers · July 2018
the Nesvizh Castle. The castle was aban-
doned during the 18th century and then
severely damaged during the Battle of Mir
(1812). It was rebuilt during the late 19th
and early 20th centuries but then occupied
by the German forces when they invaded
the Soviet Union. The last family who lived
in the castle moved out in 1962. Renova-
tions were done from 1983 and it was listed
in 2000 as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
It opened as a museum in 2010 complete
with conference rooms, hotel, restaurants,
and a souvenir shop. About 300,000 tourists
visited the complex in 2017.
Photo Essay l Belarus | 169
 Church of Saints Boris and Gleb
The Kolozha Church, also known as
the Church of Sts. Boris and Gleb, was
constructed in the 12th century. It is a
unique example of Eastern Orthodox
architecture in Belarus. Standing on
the banks of the Neman River, it was
named in honour of the first Russian
saints – Princes Boris and Gleb.

170 Globerovers · July 2018

 Grodno
Belarus

Orthodox Church
The Orthodox Church of the
Protection of the Virgin was
reconstructed in 1904-05,
built in a Pseudo-Russian
Style. It remains open for
Sunday services.

Roman Catholic Church

The St. Francis Xavier Cath-
edral is located at Sovietskya
Square. Built during 1687-
1705 it was originally a Jesuit
church. The Soviets closed it
from 1960 until 1987.

Photo Essay l Belarus | 171

 Grodno
Belarus

Bernardine Monastery and Church

The Bernardine Monastery and its adjacent Church of the Holy Cross Discovery
were built during the 16th to 18th centuries in Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque
styles.

The interior of the church contains unique Renaissance sculptures as well as an

organ dating back to the 17th century. Adorned with images of the 12 Apostles,
the interior suffered during the Soviet period when the church was used as a for-
ensic medical laboratory. In 1990 it was returned to the Roman Catholic Church.

172 Globerovers · July 2018

Photo Essay l Belarus | 173
 Ac t i o n
Re p o r t

We explore the Italian Dolomites Mountains

with Daniele Sommavilla who grew up in the
area and remains a frequent year-round visitor.

174 Globerovers · July 2018

ThePr oDu dolomites
l y It a l i a n
Imagine a fusion between the Swiss Alps and the mountains of
Torres del Paine in the southern Chilean Patagonia region.
Think Dolomites!
M assive bone-white and
orange-yellow rock
formations jutting out
to gigantic propor-
tions, surrounded by verdant valleys and
low-hanging morning fog - complete
with a vast network of World War 1
mountain tunnels and to top it off, a “ri-
fugio” with spectacular panoramic views
and Italian food to drool over. Yes, Ital-
ian. Welcome to the Italian Dolomites.  entire Dolomite Mountains are not made
The rock formations of the Dolo-
mites, both the colour and shapes, are
unique and quite different from the rest
of the Alps. So strange is the combina-
tion of volcanic and dolomitic rock
Words and photos by Daniele Sommavilla and Peter Steyn
formations that they attracted the
attention of French chemist and miner-
alogist, Deodat de Gratet de Dolomieu
(1750-1801), after whom the mountains
are named. 
The discovery of an unknown
mineral, calcium magnesium carbon-
ate, CaMg(CO3)2, resulted in the
labelling of this anhydrous carbonate
mineral as “dolomite”. However, the
of dolomite. The Latemar Peak, and
also Marmolada the highest peak (3,343
metres), are limestone.  
While the imposing rock formations
are the main draw to the region, ad-
venturers flock to the area for trekking,
caving, mountain biking, horse trekking,
climbing, rafting, and several winter
sports such as skiing, carving, sledding,
tobogganing, snowboarding, and the list
goes on.
Evenings are spent around wood
fires, enjoyed with Italian cuisines
and regional wines such as the Terol-
dego, Nosiola, Lagrein and the Mar-
zemino. Stay for the night at the Rifugio
Lagazuoi with panoramic views in all
directions. From here, explore the open-
air museum of the Great War, aka World
War 1 (WW1), then ski, or hike, down
the famous Armentarola slope. 
Action Report l Italy | 175
Action Report - Italy’s Dolomites

GETTING THERE at 17:00. A one-way ticket costs €10 while the many tunnels piercing the side of the
The Dolomites (or Dolomiti in Ital- a roundtrip ticket is €15. Free parking is sharp cliffs.
ian) are located in the northeast of Italy, available at the bottom station, where you
smack between the Austrian border to the will find a hotel, souvenir shop, and a small Hiking up the mountain
north and the Venetian plains to the south. chapel which you may want to visit before Views from the summit, somehow,
Spanning the northern Italian Veneto re- scaling the mountain.  feel a lot more deserved when you hike up
gion, and the autonomous region of Tren- all the way! While the hike up the moun-
Don’t forget that almost the entire up- tain is not that difficult, it will test your
tino Alto-Adige, the Dolomites are proudly
Italian!  Being part of the Southern per part of Mount Lagazuoi is an open-air stamina. An exciting but challenging hike
Limestone Alps which stretch across Italy, war museum, where thousands of soldiers up the mountain commences at the park-
Austria and Slovenia, the Italian Dolomites died. As the cable car ascends, look out for ing space of Saré, south of San Cassiano.
tower above the Puster Valley to the north,
and the Sugana Valley to the south.
Getting here is easy. Getting around
on your own two feet is the challenge. And
what an exciting challenge it is!
The closest international airport is
the Marco Polo Venice Airport, 160 km to
the south. Smaller airports are in Treviso,
Verona and Innsbruk (Austria). The route
from Venice is a pleasant 2.5-hour drive,
which goes through several scenic places
such as the “murals village” of Cibiana di
Cadore, and the tranquil scenic location of
the Rifugio Citta di Fiume. Milan, to the
southwest, is a 4-hour drive away 
 Your ideal starting point to the Dolo-
mites is Mount Lagazuoi. Rising to a height
of 2,835 m (9,301 ft), it is located about 18
km (11 mi) west of Cortina d’Ampezzo in
the Veneto Region. Lagazuoi, debatably, is
the highlight of the Dolomites. Lagazuoi is
home to one of the most fascinating net-
works of World War 1 tunnels, the Rifugio
Lagazuoi guesthouse with its 360 degrees
panoramic views, and a network of hik-
ing trails to reach the guesthouse at the top
of the mountain.
No time to enjoy the trekking? Ascend
Mount Lagazuoi by cable car, and in winter
descend by sliding down the mountain on
your skis or toboggan!

GETTING UP THE MOUNTAIN

There are two main options to get up the
mountain: a cable car or an exhilarating hike.

The Falzarego-Lagazuoi Cable Car

The easy and thrilling way up the
mountain is the Falzarego-Lagazuoi Cable
Car at the Falzarego Pass. From the top of
the Falzarego Pass at 2,117 m (6,946 ft), the
cable car will whisk you up to the sum-
mit of Mount Lagazuoi at 2,762 m (9,062
ft) in approximately three minutes. It runs
every 15 minutes from 09:00 to 16:40 up-
hill, while the last car to the bottom leaves

176 Globerovers · July 2018

Follow the meditative path of “Nikolaus
von der Flühe”, known for its tranquillity
and complete immersion into nature. The
path passes the chapel of Sass Dlacià, Rifu-
gio Capanna Alpina, and then Rifugio Sco-
toni from where a small path leads to the
beautiful mountain lake of Lagazuoi in
which the peaks of the Dolomites are re-
flected. Keep going until you cross the Do-
lomites ridgeway and eventually the Laga-
zuoi saddle to the Rifugio Lagazuoi and
the upper station of the cable car.  Best is not to descend via the path right
For a more leisurely experience, take below the cable car as this is not an easy
way down. Rather go towards the saddle
the cable car up the mountain, and enjoy
of Lagazuoi, past Forcella Travenanzes,
a few hours walking along the summit
and follow path number 401-402 which
ridge which offers beautiful views of the
surrounding mountains and valleys. After ends near the bottom station of the cable
taking enough photos and eating a few car. There are several paths descending
strudels, or a full meal at the refuge restau- from the summit. Ask around and choose
rant, descend the mountain via one of the a difficulty level to match your fitness and
ski runs. mindset.
Action Report l Italy | 177
Action Report - Italy’s Dolomites

THE WAR TUNNELS

Other than the incredible rock forma-
tions, the second most unique feature of
the mountains is the war tunnels. 
These high mountains served as the
front lines in the war for land between
the Italian and the Austrian armies during
World War 1. Since the end of the Third
Italian War of Independence in 1861, the
border lines in this region have been dis-
puted by the Italians and the Austrians.
This dispute came to a boiling point in the
early 1900’s when the Austrians claimed the
strategic high positions of Mount Lagazuoi
and a few other parts of the Dolomites.
The Italians claimed these moun-
tains to be theirs and were willing to
fiercely fight to get them back. In a three-
year struggle, starting in 1915, they fought
to drive out the Austro-Hungarian army,
during which time tens of thousands of
soldiers lost their lives in battle, avalanch-
es, accidents, and bitterly cold winters. In
December 1916 more than 10 thousand
soldiers on both sides were killed by ava-
lanches, with 4,000 casualties on Decem-
ber 13th alone, known as White Friday.
The Austro-Hungarian army con-
structed fighting tunnels, often at high
altitudes in the hard carbonate rock and
even in glacial ice.
The Italians followed suit and dug miles
of tunnels into the mountain as part of
their plan to blow off the top of the moun-
tain (Piccolo Lagazuoi) and drive out the
Austrians. They were successful to greatly
damage the mountain, and the war ended
with the signing of the Armistice of Villa
Giusti. The fate of the region was eventu-
ally decided in 1919 at the negotiation
tables of Paris. The Italians were awarded
the Dolomites while the new border was
redrawn further to the northeast. 
The war is long over! The Italians are
guardians of the Dolomites while the Aus-
trians have more snowy peaks than they
can count. Now you can grab a flashlight,
wear your helmet and walk these tunnels
much like the soldiers did decades ago. 
During 2018 a wide range of events in RIFUGIO LAGAZUOI Its panoramic terrace offers an encompass-
the region will celebrate 100 years since the Once you get off the cable car at the ing view of the surrounding mountains
War ended. summit of Mount Lagazuoi, you have and deep valleys.
During your tunnel hikes you will arrived at the Lagazuoi Refuge (Rifugio Drop your backpack inside the refuge
come across remnants of the war such as Lagazuoi). Situated at an altitude of 2,752 and immediately go for a short hike
gun turrets and bunkers, rusting shell cas- m (9,029 ft), Rifugio Lagazuoi is one of the along the ridge of the summit. From here
ings, and of course the fortified trenches. highest mountain huts in the Dolomites. you have incredible views in all direc-

178 Globerovers · July 2018

tions. Make sure to walk to the famous
summit cross that was erected in memory
of the soldiers who were killed on this
mountain in World War I.
During the summer season, and at
the height of the skiing season, the refuge
can get very busy during the daytime,
particularly during meal times. Sleeping
place is limited, so if you want to over-
night which is highly recommended, you’d
better book long in advance. The refuge is
a great base for visiting the WW1 tunnels,
for hiking around the area, and for skiing
in the Cortina and Badia Valleys. From
the refuge, you can ski down the famous
Armentarola slope which is one of the
longest and most spectacular ski slopes in
the Dolomites. Lagazuoi and Cortina are
one of the 12 ski areas that constitute the
Dolomiti Superski, a 1,200 km network of
dreamlike-shaped slopes and state-of-the-
Action Report l Italy | 179
Action Report - Italy’s Dolomites
art lift facilities configured to create the
biggest ski resort in the world.
After a full day of trekking, tunnel
crawling, skiing, or whatever action you
endeavoured, recline with a cold beer
or warm drink from the bar and watch
the setting sun over the mountain peaks.
The set meals, of typical local cuisine,
are sumptuous and served up three times
a day. Then, settle for some quality time in
the charming Finnish sauna, the highest
sauna in the Dolomites. Don’t miss the
views during sunrise. The blue-pinkish
hues against the mountains and the low-
180 Globerovers · July 2018
hanging clouds and early morning fog over
the valleys are surreal.  to €111, triple rooms are €165, and qua-
The winter season at Rifugio Laga-
zuoi normally starts from around 6th
December to the middle of April, while the
summer season is from early June to early
October. Outside these two seasons, the
refuge is closed. The refuge has a total of
74 beds of which 18 are in private bed-
rooms and 56 in shared dormitories. Only
shared bathroom facilities with limited
water supply are available. The refuge of-
fers a ski-boot dryer, slippers, bed sheets,
towels, and a small wellness area. During
the 2018 season, twin rooms are €108
druple rooms €220. Bunk bed dormitories
which vary from six to 14 people in a
room, cost €44.40 per person including a
sumptuous breakfast. A hot shower is extra
at €3.50 per token.  Dorms were built in
1987 and bathroom facilities were com-
pletely renovated in 2015. Great facilities
indeed!
Once you have visited the Italian Do-
lomites, the Dolomites will always be on
your mind. This I can promise you! So get
packing and explore northern Italy. GR
Action Report l Italy | 181
Wine Talk - Italy’s Dolomites Wineries

Piana Rotaliana
Wineyards of Trentino Province, northern Italy

182 Globerovers · July 2018


A wesome mountains, beautiful
alpine lakes (there are over 300
of them), stunning landscapes:
the Italian Trentino region is a jewel waiting
to be discovered!
Even if you are just coming for the
wines and the wineries, you certainly won’t
be disappointed. This wine growing area
of the Italian Dolomites has everything to
make you happy. Very happy!
Once you cross the valley of the Adige
River from Verona to Trento, you will get
your first glimpses of an impressive canyon
where the river flows through a couple of
narrow loops: the so-called Chiusa (“closed”
in the Italian language) of Ceraino, a tiny
village. After just a few kilometres, you will
see the first vineyards!
From Veneto to Trentino, the vines
dominate the landscape, from the lower
valleys all the way up to the steepest slopes
on the hills. Trentino boasts a centuries-old
and well-established enology and winemak-
ing tradition of the highest standard. The
average annual harvest is about 1 million
hectolitres of grapes, cultivated over an area
in excess of 10,000 acres. This is a drop in
the ocean compared to the land dedicated
to vineyards worldwide, but here the soil is
superb for grapes.
The varieties cultivated are both local
and international, but without a doubt
the most loved ones by winemakers and
wine lovers alike, are the original cultivars:
the regal Teroldego, the gentle Nosiola,
the friendly Marzemino. The “Prince”, the
“Lady” and the “Jolly” in the deck of cards
of wine production in this region.
Teroldego is regarded as the prince of
Trentino’s red wines. It originated in the so-
Wines
of the Dolomites
Words and photos by Elisabetta Tosi, Valpolicella, Italy
Wine Tastings:
Enoteca Provinciale del Trentino
Palazzo Roccabruna,
via SS.Trinità, 24
Trento
Tel.+39.0461.887101
Cantina di Toblino
Hosteria and wine shop: Via Longa, 1
Sarche - Madruzzo (TN)
Tel: +39.0461 564168
called Campo Rotaliano (Rotaliano’s Field),
a vast plain situated north of Trento. It is
amongst the darkest red wines in the world,
and in ancient legends was compared to
the blood of a dragon. It is a well-balanced,
clean and elegant wine. The nose detects Nosiola is a versatile, fresh and easy-to-
hints of red and black small berries with drink wine while still is in its youth. How-
violet flowers, while the tongue detects a ever, if made with dried grapes, it changes
spicy and balsamic character. dramatically and becomes a precious, lavish,
Totally different is the bright and gentle and surprisingly silky sweet wine. Produc-
Nosiola, the lady: a white grape that produc- tion of this “Vino Santo” is quite limited.
es wine with the taste of wild hazelnuts. The Last, but not least, is the jolly Mar-
name is derived from the Italian word for zemino, famously mentioned as “Versa il
hazelnut, nocciola, which is the dominant vino! Eccellente Marzemino!” in Mozart’s
aroma found in Nosiola wines. The grapes “Don Giovanni” opera. It is a fresh and
are cultivated in areas where the brisk easy-to-drink red wine, gentle and friendly.
afternoon breeze named “Ora del Garda” To the nose, this wine offers scents of plums,
or “Garda’s Ora” (Ora from the Latin word violets, and wild berries; to the palate, it is
“Aura” meaning “beneficial breath”), helps fruity, delicate and very pleasant. When you
to dry off the afternoon rains and enhances are in the Trentino region, try it paired with
the ripening of the grapes. a pizza. Trust me, you won’t regret it.
Elisabetta Tosi is an experienced Italian freelance wine journalist and wine blogger,
and new media consultant. From Valpolicella (close to Verona, in Veneto region)
where she lives, she usually writes about Italian wines and wineries for international
online and offline magazines, and is always ready to jump into new travel adventures.
www.vinopigro.it | www.fermentidigitali.com | Twitter: @VinoPigro
Wine Talk l Italy | 183
 More than 1,028 rhinos were poached in South Africa in 2017.
Many more elsewhere!
Across Africa and Asia we are witnessing a new poaching crisis that threatens
to derail the gains made in rhino conservation over the last thirty years. While
most people might think the demand for rhino horn is fuelled by China’s wide-
spread use of Traditional Chinese Medicine; the reality is much more complex.

Article written by Katherine Johnston, London, UK
Katherine is Save the Rhino International’s Communi-
cations Manager. She read Modern History and English
at Oxford, before completing an MA at London’s School
of Oriental and African Studies. She is a consultant to
the Lynx UK Trust and Trustee of ResonanceFM.
class, the horn is ground to a powder and
consumed as a “detoxifier.” Rumoured to cure
anything from illnesses to hangovers; imbib-
ing the horn often takes place in a social
setting when sealing high-end business deals.
The practice, akin to using a party drug, is
growing.
Although the number of people buying

B
rhino horn is a tiny proportion of the popu-
y 2007 rhino populations, especial- caused by demand from countries in South lation, their impact on the species’ survival
ly in Africa, had seen steady growth East Asia, primarily China and Viet Nam. Al- is huge.
due to the efforts of conservation- though Traditional Chinese Medicine plays
ists on the ground and tougher law a part, it is more to do with the booming Since 2008, over 6,000 African white
enforcement. In 2008 however, poaching Vietnamese economy and rapid expansion of and black rhinos have been poached. In Asia,
began to rise – exponentially – and we are a wealthy business elite.” the most threatened species are the Sumatran
now at a tipping point where the number of and Javan rhinos; with fewer than a hundred
rhinos poached (plus natural mortalities) is In Viet Nam, rhino horn is seen as a of each species remaining. Many organisa-
outweighing the number born each year. luxury item. It is a status symbol to own and tions have warned that if the rate of killing
display but also to consume. Traditional be- continues unabated, rhinos could be heading
What is behind this rapid surge in liefs around “Chi” – or inner strength – have to extinction within the decade.
poaching? “The new poaching crisis,” SRI adapted as a new elite has emerged. Now,
Deputy Director Susie Offord tells us, “is amongst some parts of the country’s business The act of poaching itself is brutal.

SRI Deputy Director Susie Offord

is positive that we can turn back
the tide: “Our biggest challenge
in Viet Nam is raising awareness
so that customers see their part
in the wider picture.

Many people don’t associate

rhinos poached in Africa with
items sold in their country. Ultim-
ately, the only way we can put
an end to poaching is to stop
demand.

It will take time, but with the

backing of so many people in
Viet Nam, I think we can do it.”

184 Globerovers · July 2018

 h i n o s
Hunted down, usually shot and left in a trau-
R
matised state, the rhino’s horn and much of
ve
its face is hacked off with an axe or machete.
a
Calves are killed for their tiny horns or sim-
S
ply left to die.
For conservationists, ever-declining
numbers of rhinos pose huge challenges.
Healthy gene pools diminish, populations
become more fragmented and struggle to
mate naturally, and habitat loss brings rhinos
and poachers into increasingly close contact.
When consumers buy rhino horn, money
goes straight into the hands of transnational
criminal syndicates, many of whom are
involved in narcotics, people trafficking and
money laundering too. And for every rhino
population lost, a community loses a source
of tourism revenue and a vital part of the
eco-system.
“The act of poaching
itself is brutal.”
Save the Rhino International (SRI) was
founded in 1994. Focused on conserving vi-
able populations of wild rhino, the UK-based
charity raises funds and awareness to support
initiatives on the ground. Long-running
programmes include training rangers and
providing anti-poaching equipment; fund-
ing education programmes for communities
living near rhino habitat; and captive breed-
ing for the critically endangered Sumatran
rhinos.
SRI started working in Viet Nam in
2012 after the country was identified as a
key market for rhino horn by TRAFFIC, an
organisation that investigates international
wildlife crime. Since then, SRI has worked
in Viet Nam with both TRAFFIC and a local
organisation called Education for Nature-
Vietnam, to raise awareness of the devas-
tating impact of the trade and encourage
Vietnamese consumers to turn their back on
the craze.
In May 2016, SRI Ambassador, and
‘Arrow’ and ‘Lagaan’ actor Paul Blackthorne
landed in Viet Nam to launch a new cam-
paign: Save the Rhino Vietnam. A joint
initiative between SRI and Education for
Nature-Vietnam, the campaign aims to put
the rhino horn trade firmly on the national
agenda. So far, the campaign has garnered
a huge amount of press attention. Predomi-
nantly aimed at young people, the campaign
has seen Blackthorne speak at schools and
universities and meet influencers from the
business and political spheres keen to raise
awareness of Viet Nam’s role in the global
trade.
Blackthorne explains “Rhino horn can,
and will be, an unfashionable fad from the
past…This is a new trend. It’s something that
we can change before it’s too late.” A host of
Vietnamese superstars have also jumped on
board including the country’s top comedian
Xuan Bac, and one of the country’s “four
divas”; Lê Hồng Nhung.
There are signs of progress in Viet
Nam. Young people are engaging with the
campaign and the hashtag #savetherhinoviet-
nam is trending on social media. In July 2016
the Vietnamese government will produce
new penal codes, and the team at SRI hope
this means more prosecutions for traffickers
and lengthy prison sentences rather than low
fines. The team behind the campaign point to
previous successes in stemming the demand
for rhino horn in nearby Japan, South Korea
and Taiwan, where the trade is now practi-
cally non-existent.
Follow us:
savetherhinointernational
@savetherhino
Contribution l Save The Rhino | 185
 globerovers
Travel Magazine
— for the intrepid traveller —

n g i n t he
i
Com 018 issue
c e m b e r2
De
Europe’s 10 smallest countries.
A guide for the intrepid traveller.

Don’t miss an Issue

Subscribe NOW
GlobeRovers is published in July and December
Scan this code for a
FREE download of Globerovers app
Apple Store Google Play

www.globerovers-magazine.com facebook.com/GloberoversMag
pinterest.com/globerovers twitter.com/globerovers

Globerovers, an independent travel magazine headquartered in Hong

Kong, focuses on off-the-beaten-track destinations free of mass tourism.

186 Globerovers · July 2018

187
 Postcards
Hey Mom,
You must have seen on TV or
on Facebook about the new
eruptions and lava flowing at the
Kilauea Volcano on Hawaii’s
Big Island, USA. Well, I’m here
Mom. Sorry I did not warn you
I’m coming.
I walked right up to the flowing
lava. It is over 1,000 Celsius
and I got an instant tan on my
arms and face. I’m brown and
sexy!
I also took a helicopter ride over
the crater. Holy moly what an
amazing experience. Mom I got
to run. The lava is flowing slow
but faster than you may think.
Love, Lizzy

Merhaba Mom,
I’m travelling around Turkey
and arrived today at the
Hagia Sophia in Istanbul.
This former Greek Ortho-
dox Christian patriarchal
basilica was built over just
5 years and completed in
the year 537. Wow that is
1,481 years ago and it still
looks really good.
Love ya, Lizzy

Здравствуйте Mom,
Yes, I now speak
Ukrainian too! I am
listening to a man playing
the traditional torban
on the grounds of St.
Sophia’s Cathedral in
Kiev, Ukraine. This is
such sweet music and the
cathedral is incredible!
Love, Lizzy

188 Globerovers · July 2018

to Mommy

Xin chào Mom, Marhaban Mom,

I’m at the Masoleum of I took a flight on Yemenia Airlines to the centre of Yemen and
Ho Chi Minh in Hanoi, then a long drive to Shibam town in the Hadramawt Valley.
Vietnam. Time has been standing still in this 3rd Century mudbrick city.
Similar to John Lenin (no Lovies, Lizzy
maybe Vladimir Lenin),
China’s Mao Zedong,
and the North Korean
Grandad and Dad, inside
this tomb, past this fear-
less guard, is a dead man
who is maybe not really
dead. He is still looking at
people. A bit creepy so I
am leaving.
Love, Lizzy

Salom Mom,
I’m at the Ismail Samani
Mausoleum in the town
of Bukhara, Uzbekistan.
It was constructed in 943
BC. in honour of Ismail
Samani, a powerful ruler
during the Samanid dynasty
of Central Asia. Pretty
building I must say!
Love, Lizzy

Postcards to Mom | 189

 More Postcards to Mommy

Tashi delek Mom,

I’m standing in front of the Potala Palace in
Marhaba Mom,
Lhasa, Tibet. This was the former residence of the
This is an old postcard Dalai Lama until he fled to India. Sad! Luv ya, Lizzy.
which I forgot to write.
I’m at the 3rd Century
Monumental Arch
in Palmyra, Syria. In
October 2015 some very
bad people blew this up
and totally destroyed it
because they just like to
destroy the world. Fortun-
ately, I took many photos
before they arrived. I better
go Mom. Lizzy.

Salom Mom,
I’m driving a Landrover
through Vrang village on
my way from Ishkashim to
Murgab along the Wakhan
Valley of Tajikistan.
Those snow covered
mountains are inside Af-
ganistan where I returned
from yesterday.
Lovies, Lizzy

190 Globerovers · July 2018

 ... by Lizzy

Hallo Mom, Kon’nichiwa Mom,

I’m on top of the world and it is bitterly cold. Was -35°C today. I am These guys are playing on their shimedaiko medium-sized
about 1,000 km from the North Pole. Yesss I am doing dog-sledding drums at the Chatan Festival, Okinawa Island, Japan.
on the Svalbard Islands of Norway. Here are about 3,000 polar What an amazing place, and the diving and snorkeling are
bears but I have not seen them yet. Oh... chat later Mom. Love you, Lizzy. awesome!! Love, Lizzy

Bonjour Mom,
This is my last postcard
until December. What a
lovely view from the Ville
Haute (“High City”) to the
Ville Basse (“Low City”)
and the Grund in the River
Alzette gorge, Luxembourg.
The town is quite interest-
ing with lots of old buildings
such as the beautiful Notre-
Dame Cathedral and the
Eglise St. Michel Church.
Mom, this is it for now!
Love you tons, Lizzy

Postcards to Mom | 191

 SUPER
TRAVELLERS in the SPOTLIGHT
A Globerovers Q&A with adventure travellers living in Scotland.

Laurence & Jessica NORAH GR: Among those countries you have not yet visited, which ones
are at the top of your “must do” list?
Laurence and Jessica Norah are LN: I really want to visit Antarctica, and Jess really wants to visit Peru.
the British-American travel blog- I want to visit Antarctica for the landscapes, wildlife and nature, Jess is
ging couple behind photography & keen on Peru for the cultural and natural attractions.
adventure travel blog Finding the
Universe and luxury / couples travel GR: If you could spend the rest of your life somewhere other than
blog Independent Travel Cats. Their your current home country, which country would that be?
goal is to inform and inspire through LN: Again, this would likely be the USA for me and maybe France for
well-written content accompanied by Jess (who is from the USA)!
beautiful imagery. They are currently
based in beautiful Scotland. GR: Please tell us about the most incredible and memorable experi-
ence you have ever had while travelling?
All photos by Laurence & Jessica LN: We got married whilst travelling, so that was definitely a memor-
able experience! We got married on the Cunard Queen Mary 2 halfway
between my home country of the UK, and Jess’s home country of the
USA, and it was a really special occasion as we were married by the
Globerovers (GR): We talked with Laurence about his travels with Captain and had a wonderful day!
Jessica and started by asking how many countries they have visited.
Laurence Norah (LN): To be honest, I’m not totally sure. Probably GR: Based on your travel experiences, if you were to recommend the
around 50? We prefer to travel slowly and explore a country fully rather one most amazing destination for intrepid travellers, which place
than rack up countries. We also revisit countries a lot! would that be, and why?
LN: I would say probably Australia, because the country is so vast and
GR: What are your top 5 most preferred countries for leisure travel? there is so much wilderness to explore. I adventured around Australia
LN: The USA, New Zealand, the UK, France and Thailand. for a year in an off-road four-wheel drive, visiting some of the most
remote spots, and there are some incredible off-the-beaten-path loca-
GR: Which is your most preferred country for travel and why? tions you can visit.
LN: If we had to pick one, it would be the USA. It’s got so much variety
in terms of sights, with everything from big cities to fantastic national
parks. It’s easy and relatively affordable to travel there, and perfect for a
road trip.

GR: Where do you wish you were right now?

LN: We always like to be happy with where we are right now, which
happens to be in Scotland! If we were always wishing we were some-
where else, we’d probably figure out how to make that happen.

Route 66 California, USA.

GR: Which people by nationality or subgroup would you say have

been the most hospitable during your travels and why do you say so?
LN: I think it’s hard to narrow this down to a single group. We often
find the locals to be friendly and hospitable nearly everywhere we go!
But, for example, is that Jessica found the people in South Korea to be
very kind and hospitable and they often went out of their way to help
her when she visited several years ago. Every time she pulled out a
map, people were stopping and asking if they could help (even if they
didn’t speak English)!

192 Globerovers · July 2018

GR: How do you think travelling around the world for independ-
ent travellers has changed over the past 20 years?
LN: I think it has definitely become easier. I travelled around China for
three months in 2001, almost twenty years ago, just at the dawn of the
internet. So, whilst I could e-mail my parents back home, finding travel
information online was pretty much impossible back then. It was all
physical books and word-of-mouth from other travellers. These days I
think technology has made travelling a lot easier and more accessible.
LN: There was a Massaman Curry I had in a small guest house in Khao
Sok that I’ll always remember. It was so good I had it every night for
three days!
GR: And where was the worst food during your travels?
LN: I’m usually pretty accepting of food, but I have to admit I’ve had
some pretty terrible food travelling in the UK! It’s improved a lot over
the years thankfully.

GR: What is the strangest or weirdest place you have ever spent a

night?
LN: When I was travelling around Australia, we camped out in the
middle of nowhere very often, usually hundreds of miles from anyone
else.

GR: Do you have any strange, weird, or even bizarre travel rituals
which you can share with us?
LN: I can’t think of anything too weird.

GR: Based on all your travel experiences, what is the best tip you can

Laurence, the serious photographer.
GR: Let’s get a bit more personal. Do you have any “must take”
items when you travel that you think most travellers don’t think of?
LN: We usually try to travel with a Leatherman (a multitool), and some
duct tape. You just never know when you might need to fix something.
GR: What is your favourite travel resource on the Internet?
LN: We usually use Booking.com or Airbnb for accommodation, and
Kiwi or Priceline for flights. Beyond that, we normally just start with a
Google search to find what we want!
GR: Let’s talk about food. Which one country that you visited has
the best food in the world?
LN: I love the food in the Seychelles. Fresh fish, curry spices and coco-
nut make for an incredible cuisine, but I am biased since I spent several
years there as a child.
GR: Where was the best meal you have ever had during your travels?
offer to new travellers?
LN: Don’t be afraid to be a tourist. I think a lot of us think there’s some
stigma attached to being a tourist, but by definition, if you’re travelling
in another country, you’re a tourist. Unless you’re going to settle down
and get a job, your experience in a foreign country will never be the
same as it is for locals, so just embrace it.
GR: What is the single best lesson you have learned about the world
during your travels around the world?
LN: People are pretty similar the world over, with similar dreams and
goals for their lives.
GR: What is the main focus of your travels?
LN: I would say photography for me, and Jess loves to learn about the
history and culture of a place.
GR: And finally, where are you off to next?
LN: Tomorrow we are heading down to the Seychelles for two weeks.

Getting married on the Cunard Queen Mary 2

halfway between the USA and the UK.
Follow Laurence & Jessica

BLOGS
findingtheuniverse.com
independenttravelcats.com
FACEBOOK
www.facebook.com/findingtheuniverse
www.facebook.com/independenttravelcats
TWITTER
twitter.com/lozula
twitter.com/travelcatsblog
INSTAGRAM
instagram.com/lozula
instagram.com/independent_travel_cats
PINTEREST
pinterest.com/lozula
pinterest.com/indietravelcats

193
 TRAVELLERS in the SPOTLIGHT
Globerovers Q&A with an incredible traveller living in Thailand

Craig Thompson is easy, it’s relatively safe, and language isn’t a problem. I’m a nut for
Pattaya, Thailand beaches and Thailand has a bunch of them.

GR: Where do you wish you were right now and why?
CT: I started playing guitar again and picked up the mandolin. I’ve
gotten hooked on bluegrass. Very few people play it here in Thai-
Craig retired in 2002 and has been travelling for four to five
land. So, I wish I were back in the US at a festival and joining in on
months of every year since then.
the campground jams. Hopefully, that will happen in a year or two.

GR: Among those countries you have not yet visited, which ones
Globerovers (GR): How many countries have you been to?
are at the top of your “must do” list?
Craig Thompson (CT): I’ve been to 102 countries and will be at
CT: Top of my list is Southern Africa. I’ll be going there next year
around 120 by the end of next year.
and visiting around 10 countries. It’s going to be an epic trip. Cape
Town and its surrounding wineries along with Namibia, are my top
GR: What are your top 5 most preferred countries for leisure travel? two destinations.
CT: I’ve found something interesting and unique in every country
I’ve visited. But, here’s a shot at the top 5: GR: Please tell us about the most incredible and memorable
1. Turkmenistan – Ashgabat is THE most bizarre city I’ve ever experience you have ever had while travelling?
visited. You really have to see it to believe it. The “Gates of Hell” CT: I’ve had quite a few incredible and memorable experiences.
was a fantastic place to visit and One was climbing Kilimanjaro. My
spend the night. I camped out father wanted me to do this and
right on the side of the burning passed away just before my trip. I
crater. spent a week doing the climb and at
the top, I broke down and cried. It
2. Tajikistan – Travelling along the
was an incredibly hard trip, and very
Pamir Highway was probably
emotional as I did it in memory of
one of my most memorable trips.
my father.
Stunning scenery. An incredible
adventure. GR: Based on your travel experi-
3. Argentina – With a selection ences, if you were to recommend
of some of the best steaks and the one most amazing destination
wines in the world, I love it there! for intrepid travellers, which place
Plus, there are a lot of places for would that be, and why?
adventure. Southern Argentina is CT: I would have to say Eastern Eu-
fantastic, with glaciers, moun- rope. It’s cheap, transport is easy, and
tains and all sorts of activities. there’s plenty to see. We loved the re-
mote areas in Czech Republic, Serbia,
4. Ecuador – Visiting the Galapa-
Slovakia, Bulgaria and Romania: wonderful places to visit that help
gos Islands and seeing what Darwin saw is wonderful. I took a
stretch your travel dollar.
7-day cruise around the islands.
5. Bangladesh – Outside Dhaka, the country is amazing. It’s like GR: What is the single best lesson you have learned about the
going back 50 years in time. The people are real. NO tourists! world during your travels around the world? 
CT: I think travelling is very educational. And it helps break down
GR: Which is your most preferred country for travel and why? the biases we all have. The #1 thing I’ve learned is that most people
CT: I’d have to say Thailand. It’s cheap, has good weather, transport just want to live a good life and take care of their family.

194 Globerovers · July 2018

 TRAVELLERS in the SPOTLIGHT
Globerovers Q&A with an off-the-beaten-track traveller who loves Arctic Canada

Yrene Dee GR: Where do you wish you were right now and why?
YD: In the Canadian High Arctic. This is the most off-the-beaten-
Lumby, BC, Canada
track I can go in Canada. I’m fascinated by the Inuit history and
their survival and I want to gain more insight into their lives.

GR: Among those countries you have not yet visited, which ones
Swiss born, Yrene is an entrepreneur, wilderness nut and animal
are at the top of your “must do” list?
lover who prefers off-the-beaten-track places.
YD: Mongolia to experience their timeless way of life and ride a
horse across the land with no fences.
Globerovers (GR): How many countries have you been to?
Yrene Dee (YD): Honestly, I have never counted. I travelled for 10 GR: Please tell us about the most incredible and memorable
years when I left home at the age of just 20, and I learned to move experience you have ever had while travelling?
slowly and stay longer, which sometimes turned into a stay of a few YD: Hitchhiking solo around Australia, which would fill up a book.
years. Sick in a hospital in southern India would fill up another book; a
bus trip through Afghanistan before the Afghan war, a third book!
GR: What are your top 5 most preferred countries for leisure travel?
YD: GR: Based on your travel experiences, if you were to recommend
1. Australia – with its incredible outback and indigenous culture, the the one most amazing destination for intrepid travellers, which
endless white sandy beaches, place would that be, and why?
and the easy-going Aussie YD: You mean I can suggest only
lifestyle. one destination? A road trip from
2. New Zealand – because of the Dawson City, Yukon to Tuktoyak-
stunning diverse landscapes, for tuk, Northwest Territories, Canada,
being a hitchhikers‘ heaven and on the epic Dempster Highway. It’s
for its friendly people. wild, adventurous and will leave
3. Switzerland – the land of chee- you speechless. Please read my
se, chocolate and the sound of article on page 132.
cowbells, and old traditions that
warm my heart. The Swiss Alps GR: What is the single best les-
are super special to me. son you have learned about the
4. Canada – the second largest world during your travels around
country in the world, where I the world? 
immigrated and I’m still living YD: Travelling is the best educa-
here today. tion and an investment for life. It
5. Italy – for its ancient history. has shaped me into the person I am
Maybe I love Italy so much now. Living out of a backpack has taught me that we actually “need”
because it was the first country I ever visited. very little. People in poor countries are often the happiest and most
generous.
GR: Which is your most preferred country for travel and why?
YD: It’s mostly the country I’m in at the time. I don’t have a
Follow Yrene Dee
preferred country for travel. I don’t compare countries as each is Facebook: @backcountrycanada
Pinterest: @backcountrycana,
unique in its own way. For now, I prefer “wild land Canada” and it
Twitter: @backcountrycana,
is where I am living right now. backcountrycanadatravel.com

195
 BOOK REVIEW
Your Australia Itinerary
by Michela Fantinel
Read about Michela at:
www.rockytravel.net.
Follow her on Twitter, Pinterest, Google+
and Instagram: @rockytravel
facebook.com/Australia.Travel.Inspiration

Your Australia Itinerary

is available at
Amazon.com (paperback)
ITUNES Store (interactive)
and the PDF version at
www.rockytravel.net

Michela Fantinel is the founder and Editor-in-Chief of
Rocky Travel, an award-winning blog and leading travel
planning site for the solo traveller to Australia and Italy.
She is a passionate solo traveller, who loves to share
her adventures around the world as well as to help
women setting off on their own to travel in a simpler and
smarter way.
Q1. What is the book “Your Australia Itinerary” all about?
It’s a practical guide book aimed at helping travellers identify
what they want to see and do in Australia and create a personalized
itinerary. Being Australia, a massive country with huge distances,
it can be overwhelming for first-timers. Most people only have 2-4
weeks to travel and therefore they need to make hard decisions. The
book will illuminate and guide you through the entire process of
knowing, evaluating, balancing out time frames with activities as
well as choosing how to travel around the country in the most cost-
effective way.
Q2. Why did you write this book?
From the questions of my readers it was clear to me that choos-
ing places and creating the itinerary was crucial to them. Most
people who travel to Australia have no clue of what the country is
like and most times they make mistakes by underestimating the
distances and picking the wrong places. Poor travel planning before-
hand is often the cause of disappointment. l have been travelling on
my own for 14+ years and with 24 months on the road and over 100
thousands kilometres I think know Australia quite well!
who love to travel independently, see and do things that they will
love and visit places at their own pace, through the eyes of an
insider.
Q3. In what ways is your book different from your blog posts?
On the site my articles are very detailed about a specific place,
event or activity and you can find many inspirational stories too!
The book is not meant to inspire you to visit Australia, but rather
to give you all practical and detailed information and tools to
choose and create your own itinerary. With four main itineraries
and 36 customization options you can tweak them as you like.
Q4. Where will your passion for solo travel take you next?
My next adventure is a work in progress! From July 2018 I’m
launching my “Solo Travel Tours” to Australia and Italy for those
who love to combine a solo adventure with a small group. I know
that nothing beats the freedom of getting out and about on your
own, but to do so we need to fuel up our energy. My tours for the
solo traveller are not only about exploring those lesser-known and
hidden places, but also meant to elevate our spirit and boost our
confidence by learning from each others’ adventures!

Q3. Who is the book written for?

It is the right guide book for any first-timer to Australia. The
book best suits the female solo traveller but many couples and
families have used my book too. It is the best guide book for those

196 Globerovers · July 2018

BOOK REVIEW
Getting Offbeat in Thailand
by Chris Backe

Check out the books by Chris at:

www.oneweirdglobe.com/books
Follow him on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest,
and Instagram @oneweirdglobe

Getting Offbeat in Thailand

is available at
Amazon.com
barnesandnoble.com and
www.oneweirdglobe.com Some highlights include “the most psychedelic temple around”
in Wat Baan Rai, the Sanpatong Buffalo Market (“where you too can
buy a buffalo!”), and the Chokchai Museum (“Swarovski crystals
and scads of skulls”). While some places are well away from big cit-
Chris Backe (rhymes with ‘hockey’) is a travel blogger, ies and require a special visit to reach, other places are in Thailand’s
digital nomad, author of ‘Becoming a Digital Nomad’, bigger cities but are still lesser-known. Part of One Weird Globe’s
game designer, and all-round geek. He’s written dozens focus has been that the traveller need not travel to the end of the
of guidebooks and itineraries, and has been seen on Atlas world to find the bizarre, and places like the Museum of Counter-
feit Goods (a short walk from a Bangkok bus stop) or the Amulet
Obscura, io9, Fark, and Mental Floss. Chris is married
Market (across the street from Bangkok’s Grand Palace) are proof of
to an awesome Canadian woman and is currently slow
that.
travelling through Eastern Europe.
Where One Weird Globe’s itineraries offer a step-by-step hand-
holding guide from one place to the next, Offbeat Thailand does no
If your planned excursions in Thailand are to big cities and such thing. There are no pre-planned routes, no touristy trails to
popular tourist attractions, continue reading the Lonely Planet and follow. Your own trip will be unique, based on how many days you
your average travel blogs. Going off-the-beaten-path in a country have, which part(s) of the country you want to see, and whether you
like Thailand means a bit more travelling for a lot more rewarding feel comfortable driving a motorcycle / scooter. 
places, and Offbeat Thailand offers a great guide to do just that. As a guidebook to the country, it’s far from complete, but that’s
Offbeat Thailand focuses on over 100 bizarre, exotic, and unique by intention. By curat-
places spread out over the country. The first section serves as a gen- ing a careful selection
eral introduction to the country, a trademark of One Weird Globe of places to appeal to
guidebooks. The bulk of the book features destinations across Thai- a specific audience,
land in alphabetical order, a design choice made to make it easier for One Weird Globe
the casual reader to jump in. The back of the book offers a location guidebooks avoid the
index, subject index, and alphabetical index. Whether bought as a traditional scattershot
PDF or Kindle e-book, there’s always the ability to search the book approach and narrow
for your keyword of choice. the potential pool of
places from thousands
Each place offers a photo and a couple of paragraphs about what to about a hundred
to expect, along with the sort of information all guidebooks should worthy places actually
be including: the address of the place, the website (if one exists), visited by the writer.
admission cost, and so on. Offbeat Thailand goes one step further by By the end of your
assigning any of 10 colourful icons signifying anything from ‘kid- trip, you’ll have taken
friendly’ to ‘bring the camera’ to easy (or tough) to find. You can a journey of your own
quickly look at the icons and figure out at a glance which places may making to places few
or may not be for you. tourists ever reach. 

197
 In a future issue...
Europe’s Lilliputian Countries
Europe’s smallest independent nations are most likely the least touristy destina-
tions in Europe. Nevertheless, they certainly have no shortage of excitement for
the intrepid traveller. We will visit the ten smallest European nations: Luxembourg,
Andorra, Malta, Liechtenstein, San Marino, Monaco, Montenegro, Kosovo, Cyprus
and the smallest of them all, The Vatican City. So come along as we explore the off-
the-beaten-track places in Europe’s smallest countries.

Argentina
Stretching almost 3,700 km from north to south, Argentina has red deserts in the
north and massive glaciers in the south. Let’s travel from the most southern town
of Ushuaia all the way to the Bolivia border in the very far north. Along the way
we drop in at the massive Perito Moreno Glacier, the wildlife at Valdés Peninsula,
we tango in Buenos Aires and then move north to the Iguazú Waterfalls, Mendoza
wine region, historic Córdoba, and the cactus town of Humahuaca near Bolivia.

Sabah, Borneo Island

Borneo Island, the third-largest island in the world, is partly Malaysian and partly
Indonesian with a tiny bit squeezed out in-between for the Sultanate of Brunei. It is
known for its people, mountains, beaches, and its wild jungle with animals such as
the Bornean orangutans, Sumatran tiger, Sumatran rhino, Borneo pygmy elephant,
proboscis monkey, sun bear, clouded leopard, and many more. We will spend time
with the orangutans and proboscis monkies and explore a few islands and beaches.

Colombia’s North Coast

Colombia’s north coast stretches from the Darian Gap in the west all the way to the
Venezuela border, a distance of over 1,700 km. Much of this coastline is blessed
with white palm-fringed beaches along the turquoise warm waters of the Caribbean
Sea. We start in the city of Cartagena, known in the colonial era as Cartagena de
Indias, and travel to the mud volcano of Volcan de Lodo El Totumo. After becom-
ing muddy, we travel to Tayrona National Park with several stops along the way.

Al-Mahwit, Yemen
Located 110 km west of Yemen’s capital, Sana’a, the small town of Al-Mahwit lies at
an elevation of 2,000 metres around a mountain fortress. Dating back to the Himy-
arite era, which flourished between 110 BC to 520 AD, the mountain town is well
preserved and has many traditional houses and mosques. In 2007 we met a 13-year
old boy in the town and exactly eleven years later we reestablished contact with him
living in Malaysia. We will talk about growing up in Al-Mahwit. A tough journey!

Okinawa, Japan
To the far south of Japan’s main island, just northeast of Taiwan, lie the tropical is-
lands of Okinawa. The incredible Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium, some 90 km to the
northeast of Naha, the capital, is one of the star attractions. While the main island has
enough attractions to keep most travellers busy for a while, the smaller islands to the
west and southwest, and northeast should not be missed. We will explore the idyllic
Zamami Island which is a 50-minute fast ferry to the west of Naha’s main port.

Costa Rica
Costa Rica has no shortage of intrepid destinations. Around every corner is excite-
ment! Come along as we explore the Osa Peninsula, home to the Corcovado Nation-
al Park. We start in Golfito on the east side of Pavon Bay, cross by boat to the small
town of Puerto Jiménez from where we sit on the back of a mini-truck down a small
jungle road to Carate on the Pacific Coast. Here the fun starts as we trek 7 km on the
beach and through the jungle to our base at the secluded Sirena Ranger Station.

198 Globerovers · July 2018

 Europe’s
e
In th e
t i s s u
nex

Lilliputian Countries

199
200 Globerovers · July 2018