‘The Mind of the Traveler: From Gilgamesh to Global Tourism. Contributors: Eric J. Led -
author. Publisher: Basic Books. Place of Publication: New York. Publication Year: 1991
The guilt often attending the traveler who changes shape is significant evidence of the
contradiction at the heart of social structure, which seeks to channel recognitions toward
uniform and unchanging identities, creating a pressure to be one thing which creates a
counterpressure to be many and to escape the confinements of a fixed and unitary self. T. E.
Lawrence—Lawrence of Arabia—a master of disguises who sloughed off feelings of self-
hatred in assuming the anonymity of the stranger or the garb of an Arab, contrarily admired
travelers who refused to change or adapt to foreign circumstances. oui. the first
Englishman to live and travel in Arabia as an undisguised Englishman, was a particular hero
to Lawrence, In the introduction to Doughty's classic Travels in Arabia Deserta (1923),
Lawrence described two types of English traveler:
We export two chief kinds of Englishmen, who in foreign parts divide themselves into two
opposed classes. Some feel deeply the influence of the native people, and try to adjust
themselves to its atmosphere and spirit: To fit themselves modestly into the picture and
suppress all in them that would be discordant with local habits and colours. They imitate the
native as far as possible, and so avoid friction in their daily life. However, they cannot avoid
the consequences of imitation, a hollow, worthless thing. They are like the people but not of
the people, and their half-perceptible differences give them a sham influence often greater
than their merit, They urge people among whom they live into strange unnatural courses by
imitating them so well that they are imitated back again. The other class of Englishmen is the
larger class. In the same circumstances of exile they reinforce their character by memories of
the life they have left. In reaction against their foreign surroundings they take refuge in the
England that was theirs. They assert their
aloofness, their impassivity, the more vividly for their loneliness and weakness. They impress
the people among whom they live by reaction, by giving them an example of the complete
Englishman, the foreigner intact,
The assimilator only confuses the natives, who think, regardless of his efforts at conforming
to local circumstances, that he is still a particular but unfocused species of stranger, an
Englishman. In the shape-changing traveler they see only a distorted image of a type, not a
true performance of an identity. But the “authentic” Englishman is clearly a construct of
travel—assuming departure, a land left behind, which the uprooted Englishman realizes in his
performances before an audience of ethnic others. The authentic and uncompromising
Englishman is a stereotype and, like all cultural stereotypes, is generated in the process of
intercultural communication, observation, and identification. His defining traits are
assembled, 100, not just in order to give visibility to just any cultural type but to represent a
superior cultural type, one deserving of honor and recognition everywhere. It was the
successful performance of this persona to which Lord MacCartney—the first English
ambassador to China, in 1793—94—attributed the Chinese anxiety to get rid of him and his,
party. Somehow he had inadvertently given expression to "that superiority which, wherever
Englishmen go, they cannot conceal from the most indifferent observer."English Travellers in the Near East. Contributors: Robin Fedden - author. Publisher:
Longmans, Green. Place of Publication: London, Publication Year: 1958
v
Fourteen years after Palgrave, another traveller passed through Ma'an on the first stage of a
journey which was to produce one of the most impressive books in the English language. The
traveller was Charles Baga 1843-1926) and the book Arabia Deserta. After leaving
Cambridge, where he developed the geological interests that are reflected in his writings,
Doughty travelled for six years on the Continent, in North Africa, and in the Near East. In
1875 he heard while in Transjordan of rock monuments southward at Medain Saleh, and so
was prompted almost by chance to undertake his Arabian journey. In November of the
following year he set out from Damascus with the hajj, the cumbrous caravan that yearl
makes the journey to the Holy Cities. At Medain Saleh, having seen the hajj depart, Dowdy
struck inland across the deserts to Teyma, Hayel, Kheybar, Boreida, and finally Tayif.
Though he had assumed the name of Khalil, he travelled frankly as a Christian, and suffered
recurrent persecution in addition to the natural hardships of his journey. He reappeared finally
at Jidda, ill and exhausted, after twentyone months of 'such solitary adventuring as perhaps no
one of his race, station, and culture has sustained before or since.’
His copious notes on the people, geology, vegetation, and fauna of the deserts, which the
suspicion of the Beduin compelled him to take in secret, formed the basis of Arabia Deserta.
The writing occupied ten years. 'I have’, he said, ‘taken great pains and so far as the seeing of
one pair of eyes can suffice and Nature can be portrayed in words, [ Arabia Deserta] is the
mere truth of things according to my conscience." It was indeed, as his preface states, 'a mirror
wherein is set faithfully some parcel of the soil of Arabia, smelling of sdmn and camels’. The
mirror of the geographer and the traveller was, however, created with a strictly literary
purpose. Dau Tater said
In writing the volumes ‘Arabia Deserta’ my main intention was not so much the setting forth
of personal wanderings . .. as the ideal endeavour to continue the older tradition of Chaucer
and Spenser, resisting to my power the decadence of the English language: so that while my
work should be the mere verity for Orientalists, it should also be my life's contribution, so far
to literature.
Though Morris, Burne-Jones, and others hailed the appearance of a major work, the value of
aun. contribution was not immediately apparent to the public when the two bulky
volumes--over 600,000 words--first appeared in 1888, Arabia Deserta was original in almost
every respect, and even the publishers found 'the style of the book so peculiar as to be at times
hardly intelligible’. The manner was in fact a new stylistic medium evolved by the author for
the close interpretation in words of experiences that had in themselves been observed with
meticulous care. Though the language, as Doughty maintained, is 'chaste and right English’,
the texture of his prose is extremely close and thus sometimes difficult. There is no wasted
word in these 600,000. Again, the phrasing and less often the magnificent epithets tend to
archaism; inversions more familiar in the writers of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries
are freely used to achieve emphasis and vary rhythm. The consequent movement of the prose,so different from the laxness of much nineteenth-century writing, must well have seemed
strange to Victorian readers. Further, Doughty's scrupulous fidelity, a determination that his
portrait of Arabia should be complete and true, led to asides and longer disquisitions on
recondite matter which could hardly interest the general reader. These are inherent in the scale
of the work, part of its comprehensive and monumental character, and are often no more out
of place than Homer's catalogue of ships.
Wilfred Blunt pronounced Arabia Deserta'the best prose work of the nineteenth century’, a
judgement with which many people would now agree. Yet Doughty's book,
which he himself called his ars poetica, can perhaps most usefully be regarded as an epic
poem. If approached with the heightened perception that verse demands, its difficulties seem
less and its significance is more apparent. The close description of Arabia and the granitic
style are seen to be the medium through which DOugHIY conveys the record of a spiritual
experience. Those things to which Burton objected in Arabia Deserta, the indignities and
persecution to which Doughty was subjected and which he suffered with such noble
detachment, appear as an integral and essential part of the book. This story of desert travel is
shown, like most great works of literature, to have a profoundly moral basis. It is not,
surprising that Paradise Lost should probably offer the closest English parallel, Both works
have the same large sweep, lofty character, and deep seriousness, Stylistically also there are
affinities in the studied manner, the inversions, the echoing rhythms and noble phrasing, Both,
100, it must be recognized, have their trying passages, and Milton's theological excursions find
their counterpart in DEE Arabian lore.
‘Though the photographs of the tall red-bearded sage are familiar, it is not easy to form a clear
ices Dat personality and character. Here again reference to Milton is useful.
described himself to his future wife as 'by Nature self-willed, headstrong and fierce
with opponents’ until ‘better reason and suffering in the world bridled these faults and in part
extinguished them’. The same could be said of Milton, Both were unsocial; retiring men when
questions of principle were not at stake. Doughty lived much out of the world, and acquired
with time almost a crustacean flavour. In 1913 he had not heard of Hardy, nor of Chesterton
in 1923. Both Doughty and Milton were deeply serious, of uncompromising integrity, and
dedicated to truth as they saw it. Both were tactless and inflexible; their humour at best a grim
smile; their regard for common opinion non-existent. On his return from Arabia, ‘Doushtyit
was December--stalked the Suffolk
countryside in 'whitish cotton clothes of some eastern material, and a green band often twisted
round his waist; sockless, feet thrust into heelless sandals, and using... . a large gre:
umbrella’, Both were men of heroic mould.
Not only for the stylistic reasons already mentioned does Arabia Deserta remain a difficult
book. 's was a terrible journey and the reader is made to share it. The original
experience is re-created. The grave predicaments, the appalling hardships, the sense of ever-
present danger, the weariness, the humiliations, the gradual loss of health, all these must be
sustained, So great is y that the waterless desert, the white light, the jolting