Two hours later, the tiny coupe crawls along a clogged freeway, enjoying the inti-macy of Friday-

night traffic. As the car inches up a congested interchange ramp, the engine begins to run a little
rough—then a thin plume of steam rises from under the corner of the hood. No one noticed the
temperature needle peg itself deep into the “doom” zone. Nice work, sport—this completely
unnecessary trip may have just cost you your motor.
The modified engine under your faux–carbon-fiber hood is an air pump that uses a spark to release
the potential energy of gasoline. At peak efficiency, only about 30 percent of your fuel’s energy is
used to create reciprocating power. The remaining 70 percent of the fuel’s potential energy escapes
through the tailpipe or is converted into heat that’s absorbed by the cooling system. This absorption
of heat is vital to proper engine performance. Yet important as they are, cooling systems have a
tendency to get overlooked. Sure, they rate low on the scale of sexiness, especially when compared
to the likes of turbocharging but remember: Engines tweaked to rev higher or handle forced
induction to create more power also create additional heat as a byproduct. In these instances, a
stock cooling system may not be able to handle the extra load.
Knowledge, in this instance, is your best defense. Understanding how the cooling system works, how
to improve it, and how to identify possible problems can save you from making potentially wallet-
devastating mistakes as well as help you to maximize performance. So learn well, grasshopper, and
don’t forget to flush.
Coolant and Pressure
If an engine ran without coolant, even for a brief period, the temperatures could soar high enough
to melt a piston and fuse it to the cylinder wall. Metal surface temperatures in the cylinder head and
combustion chamber can rise higher than 500 degrees F, so the cooling of these surfaces becomes a
vital engine-design element for power and longevity.
Honda blocks use aluminum, open-deck construction with iron sleeve inserts as friction surfaces.
Most of the areas inside the cylinder head that are not of structural significance are filled with a
coolant passage. The coolant—in most cases a mixture of antifreeze (ethylene glycol) and water—
absorbs heat from such hot spots as combustion chambers and the backside of cylinder walls. While
water absorbs heat effectively, it also freezes at a high temperature (32 degrees F) and boils at too
low a temperature (212 degrees F) for use in cars in certain climates. Mixing water with antifreeze
yields a solution that benefits from a lower freezing point of -35 degrees F (for a 50/50 mixture of
water to antifreeze) and a higher boiling point. It also adds anticorrosion properties.
The effectiveness of the coolant—its ability to resist boiling and transfer heat—can be helped with
Red Line’s Water Wetter, which reduces the surface tension of the coolant. Another option would be
Evans’ NPG coolant, which is designed for use without water, allowing you to run a zero-pressure
cooling system. At zero pressure, this waterless coolant has a boiling point of 360 degrees F.
A major component of coolant-system maintenance is the periodic flushing of the system. Old
antifreeze/water mixtures can actually become corrosive to metals after extended use, but they
must be disposed of responsibly, as the mixture is toxic. Sealing the radiator’s filler neck on modern
cooling systems is a rubber-gasketed cap with a spring-loaded valve that pressurizes the system and
increases the coolant’s boiling point. Factory radiator caps typically increase the cooling-system
pressure by 14 or 15 psi and raise the boiling point about 43 degrees F. As the engine warms up, the
coolant heats up and expands, causing pressure to build up; the cap’s valve is the only place where
this pressure can escape. When the system pressure reaches the cap’s pressure rating, the cap’s
spring is compressed, forcing the valve open and allowing coolant to escape through the overflow
tube to the expansion tank. This also permits air to escape the cooling system; as the radiator cools
down, the vacuum created by the cooling system contracting pulls down another spring- loaded
valve, returning coolant to the radiator. Due to the pressure contained by the radiator cap, and the
fact that boiling liquid can lead to Dark man-like disfiguring burns, it’s never a good idea to open a
radiator cap while the engine is still hot—and certainly never when you’re in the nude.
The Pump and the Thermostat
Coolant must flow through the block and head in such a way that it can absorb and transport heat
without boiling. When coolant boils, its capability to absorb heat is diminished, causing
temperatures to rise dramatically.
Coolant makes its way from the bottom of the block and out of the cylinder head to the radiator by a
mechanically driven centrifugal pump. The water pump also draws coolant from the radiator and
forces it through the engine at a higher pressure.
A thermostat regulates the flow of coolant from the block to the radiator. By varying the size of its
aperture, the thermostat slows coolant flow to ensure that the coolant will spend enough time in
the block and cylinder head to absorb heat. On a cold engine, the thermostat completely restricts
flow to the radiator block outlet. The thermostat uses a wax-filled cylinder to open at the prescribed
temperature. A rod connected to the spring-loaded valve in the cylinder presses against the wax. As
the wax heats up, melts, and expands, the rod is pushed out of the cylinder and opens the valve. The
thermostat is located at the top of the engine at the coolant outlet, where coolant temperatures are
highest.
Typically, a car runs most efficiently when the coolant temperature is kept around 200 degrees F. At
this temperature, the combustion chamber is warm enough to vaporize the fuel mixture for
improved combustion, and the oil’s viscosity has lowered sufficiently to reduce parasitic drag.
The Radiator: Heat Transfer and Airflow
The modern radiator is constructed of densely finned, aluminum cores usually with plastic tanks.
Aluminum has a very efficient rate of heat transfer and the structural strength to withstand higher
system pressures.
From the factory, most radiators are designed to match the heat output of a stock motor. The
radiator sits behind the grille opening in the path of air that rushes in when the vehicle is in motion.
When super-heated coolant is pumped from the top of the engine into the radiator, it flows through
a structure of tubes. Folded aluminum fins connect the tubes, and the metal absorbs the heat of the
coolant. Air entering through the grille moves across the tubes and fins, and cools them by
transferring the heat to the ambient air.
The fins-per-inch measurement gives an indication as to how effectively the unit will transfer heat.
More fins of folded metal result in greater surface area for air to flow over and increased heat
transfer. After- market aluminum radiators, such as those offered by Fluidyne, not only have a high
density of fins, but they also have wider aluminum cores to provide greater cooling surface area and
coolant capacity.
The rugged, all-metal, welded or epoxied construction of such radiators can also handle higher
coolant-system pressure, and it maximizes the temperature differential between the coolant
entering the engine and the super-heated fluid entering the radiator. A high-pressure radiator cap
(such as a 24-psi unit) is available from many aftermarket-radiator suppliers, but such pressure puts
greater stress on the rest of the system (clamps, hoses, gasket surfaces, and so on). When a vehicle
is at rest, or moving slowly, the airflow must be maintained through the radiator so it can continue
dissipating heat. A fan provides constant airflow through the radiator; the fan is electric in most
front-wheel-drive cars, since the engine’s power output is oriented toward the side of the car.
Thermostatically controlled pusher or puller electric fans (aka “blow” or “suck” fans) draw air
through the radiator core once the coolant reaches a predetermined temperature.
Lost Coolant
One of the most common causes of overheating is a low coolant level, which reduces the system
pressure and the coolant boiling point. Pressurized systems with full coolant levels and functional
expansion tanks are more effective at maintaining temperatures.
Cracked hoses, faulty hose clamps, bad thermostat housing gaskets, radiator pinhole leaks, leaky
expansion tanks, and tired radiator caps are common culprits of pressure loss. Leaks can often make
slight hissing sounds and can be identified visually after the car has been running. If a head gasket is
compromised, however, coolant can escape through a combustion chamber, mixing oil with the
coolant. Traces of exhaust gas and oil can be seen floating in the coolant, and this means that the
top of the engine must be removed and resurfaced to replace the gasket.
Casting imperfections, such as hairline cracks or weeping freeze plugs, relieve system pressure just
as easily as pinhole cracks in the radiator do. Temporary solutions for leaks include JB Weld (a
“stronger than steel” epoxy welding agent) applied to the crack or fissure, or such radiator sealing
agents as Alumna seal or Bars Leak. These agents use a ceramic or metallic medium that mixes with
coolant or water to help seal leaks. Most sealing agents are only temporary repairs at best, and
ultimately, parts will need to be replaced or welded.
While some radiators can be repaired, most shops will just replace the whole unit. This plastic-
tank/aluminum-core construction has proven to be the weakness of the Honda radiator. A radiator
passage can become clogged with debris, reducing coolant flow through the core and fins and
reducing heat transfer. While debris can be removed with rods that clear the radiator core, most
shops will just opt to replace the radiator.
How It Can All Go So Wrong
If a cooling system maintains the correct pressure and fluid level, and yet the engine still runs hot,
then the problem has more to do with the fluid flow rate or airflow/heat exchange rate. Coolant
flow is managed by the churning of the water pump and the variable restriction provided by the
thermostat, and the operation of these two components can be altered to suit the engine’s cooling
needs. Typically, water-pump failure is accompanied by the squealing noise of cashed-out impeller-
shaft bearings, or the pump just leaks at the seals.
Water-pump impellers are designed to be most efficient at pushing water through the cooling
system at the lower speeds at which street engines tend to live. At very high rpm, however,
temperatures can rise because some water pumps pump more air than coolant. In such instances,
many racers increase water-pump pulley size to reduce the water-pump impeller speed at higher
rpm, therefore getting more effective cooling during races.
A slipping belt is also an overlooked cause of high-rpm overheating. It results in a pump impeller that
spins more slowly relative to crankshaft speed and thus can’t move coolant quickly enough.
Thermostats
If overheating persists after the operation of the thermostat has been tested (using a pot of boiling
water and a thermometer), consider that switching to a lower-temperature thermostat will allow
more coolant into the engine sooner.
Thermostats that open sooner can help increase coolant flow, but the coolant spends less time in
the engine absorbing heat. Switching to a lower-temperature thermostat is just a Band-Aid remedy,
however; it’s also necessary to increase the pressure of the cooling system with a stronger radiator
cap.
With an adequately pressurized system and an efficient radiator, a higher-temperature thermostat
(190-degree F instead of 180) will improve engine cooling—it will slow the coolant and do a more
thorough job of absorbing heat. The larger temperature differential between the ambient air and
coolant temperature will need peak radiator efficiency to control temperatures.
Better, Stronger, Faster
Unless you’re a sorcerer, not a whole lot can be done to control the temperature of ambient air. You
can, however, control the temperature differential between the coolant and incoming ambient air.
Ideally, you want the coolant to absorb as much heat as possible before it turns into vapor pockets,
and then send the heat to the radiator for the most dramatic temperature reduction possible.
Typically, a 100-degree differential is the desired target.
Quite a bit can be done to improve the flow of air through the radiator, thus maximizing its heat-
exchanging capabilities. The electric fans that provide airflow for most front-wheel-drive cars are
designed to draw air through the radiator of a motor with a near-stock power level. The heat
generated by higher horsepower requires more aggressive airflow. Aftermarket companies, such as
Flex-a-Lite and SPAL, offer a range of electrical fans that can move larger quantities of air than OE
cooling fans; these fans also provide different mounting possibilities. Whether it be pusher or puller
fans, such devices are crucial to help maintain airflow when the vehicle is in traffic or just moving
slowly.
A fan shroud fitted around the perimeter of the radiator also helps direct airflow through the
aluminum heat exchanger instead of around it. Radiator airflow can also be improved on a moving
vehicle by an air dam mounted under the car’s front bumper, which forces air that would otherwise
go under the car up into the grille opening and through the radiator.
The majority of enthusiasts spend so much time combing ads for the next great power-adding device
or scheming of ways to make the larger engine swap fit, that they never consider the extra heat that
these modifications will generate. Addressing a performance engine’s cooling needs as part of a
buildup will save you time and headaches on your dream car project.

Cooling System Tech

By changing how the cooling system operates, auto manufacturers are able to continue to increase
fuel economy and power output. The technical changes have developed very gradually. In the
beginning, a few turn-of-the-century auto manufacturers relied on a thermal-expansion cooling
system that was based upon the tendency of hot water to rise out of the engine cylinder head into
the top of a vertical-core radiator, where it would condense and re-enter the bottom of the engine
block.
Cooling System Development
Although thermal expansion systems worked well on low-output engines, they couldn’t cool the
high-speed engines introduced in the 1920s. These made engine-driven water pumps come into
common usage early in the century. Thermostats operated by wax pellets or thermostatic springs
also came into common usage during the 1920s to warm the engine faster and maintain even
operating temperatures. Further refinements included a cooling system bypass system designed to
circulate coolant throughout the engine while it’s warming up. Some engines also use double-seat
thermostats to close the bypass when the thermostat opens, and pressurized cooling systems were
introduced to prevent coolant boil-over on hot days.
The first cooling fans were conveniently mounted on the engine-driven water pumps and still are
today. During the 1960s, cooling fans were mounted on temperature-sensitive fan clutch devices to
reduce power loss at the engine crankshaft. The 1960s and ’70s also saw horizontal-core radiators
being introduced to accommodate reduced body height and increased cooling system demand.
Many horizontal-core radiators also require remote coolant reservoirs to help evacuate air from the
cooling system. Electric cooling fans began to appear on many imports because they could be
activated only when engine temperatures reached a critical point. This eliminated the power loss
associated with mechanical fans, and also increased fuel economy and reduced cold-engine exhaust
emissions by reducing engine warm-up time. To further reduce emissions, thermostat opening
temperatures were increased to about 195° F.
This engine-driven water pump represents an efficient, modern design, with a cast impellor spinning
inside a high-flow housing.
Water Pump Design
The basic belt-driven water pump design in most applications hasn’t changed for many years. Most
water pumps are centrifugal designs with cast or stamped metal impellors. But, some designs use
molded plastic impellors. The water pump must produce enough volume to cool the engine at idle
and also at full speed and power output.
In concert with water pump design, thermostats are designed to slightly restrict coolant flow from
the engine. This restriction allows the water pump to build additional pressure in the engine water
jackets to further reduce surface boiling on the cylinder heads and to reduce pressure on the
radiator header tank at high engine speeds.
At higher engine speeds, the water pump begins to “cavitate,” which means that the water pump
speed has reached the point at which most of the coolant is no longer contacting the water pump
impellor. At this point, a negative pressure develops along the surfaces of the water pump impellor
that increases the tendency of the coolant to boil and the engine to overheat. In extreme cases,
cavitation can erode water pump impellors and housings.
Many performance engine builders address this problem by installing special pulleys to reduce water
pump speed. Modern auto manufacturers are similarly addressing the cavitation problem with
electric water pumps.
In contrast to a belt-driven pump, the electric water pump avoids cavitation by running at a constant
or at a selected, pre-programmed speed. It also increases the engine’s power and fuel economy by
eliminating another belt-driven accessory to reduce rotating friction.
Cylinder Head Temperatures
Conventional thermostats like this badly corroded example might become a thing of the past.
Increasing the engine’s compression ratio can increase power and fuel economy, but detonation,
which is the sudden and spontaneous combustion of fuel contained inside the combustion chamber,
is the downside of increasing compression ratio.
The force of detonating fuel is such that it breaks spark plug insulators, piston rings and pistons.
Since the early 1970s, the elimination of ethyl lead has basically limited compression ratios to about
9:1 at sea level conditions to eliminate detonation.
Since an aluminum cylinder head reduces combustion chamber surface temperatures, compression
ratios can be slightly increased without introducing detonation. Electronic engine controls further
reduce detonation by adjusting spark timing and exhaust gas recirculation rates. Knock sensors built
into most engine management systems are designed to reduce spark advance if detonation is
detected.
In contrast, the recent popular introduction of direct fuel injection systems, in which fuel is injected
directly into the combustion chamber, also allows compression ratio increases ranging up to 13:1 on
some applications. This increase is possible because the combustion process is precisely controlled
and the fuel is injected into the cylinders in a manner that helps reduce combustion chamber
temperatures.
Reducing cylinder head temperatures reduces the tendency of an engine to detonate. Some high-
end manufacturers have introduced reverse-flow cooling systems in which the return coolant from
the radiator flows into the cylinder heads rather than the water pump.
Reducing cylinder head temperatures also reduces fuel economy and increases the tendency of an
engine to develop crankcase sludge. At the other temperature extreme, fuel atomizes better when
it’s exposed to higher coolant temperatures. So it’s obvious that having full control of the engine
coolant temperature can increase performance and fuel economy.
Electronic Thermostats
While originally introduced on high-end imports, one of two types of electronic thermostats will
undoubtedly be found on our future commuter vehicles. The first type is basically a conventional
thermostat that is opened by electrically heating the surrounding coolant.
The second type is a new design in which the thermostat opening is directly electronically controlled.
In either case, the powertrain control module (PCM) will use these types of thermostats to regulate
engine temperature to match the demands of part-throttle and wide-open throttle operation.
Cooling System Issues
Automotive engineers are currently faced with increasing the efficiency of the cooling system while
reducing cooling system weight. Because many original equipment radiators have marginal cooling
capacity, internally or externally clogged radiator core tubes will reduce cooling system performance
to the point of overheating.
Electrolysis is, perhaps, the worst problem associated with modern bi-metal engines using aluminum
radiators, whereas internal rust corrosion is the worst problem on the older cast-iron engines
equipped with brass radiators. So, the additive packages in most coolants contain inhibitors that
reduce corrosion caused by rust and electrolysis.
When the coolant’s additive package wears out, rust flakes from the engine’s cast-iron water jackets
begin to clog the radiator core tubes. In some rare cases, the water pump impellor and other sheet-
steel cooling system components like core plugs will also corrode due to poor metallurgy. In any
case, rusty coolant indicates that the cooling system is headed for trouble.
Electrolysis occurs because a very mild electrical current develops between two dissimilar metals
exposed to water-based solutions. Unfortunately, electrolysis tends to transfer from one metal to
another. This results in the “solder bloom” found on the cores of the old soldered brass radiators. In
more modern engines, electrolysis can cause cylinder head gasket failure by severely pitting cylinder
head gasket surfaces and eroding the metallic portions of the gaskets themselves.
In the current market, most auto manufacturers supply long-life coolants designed to function with
the specific metallurgy and designs of their cooling systems. Most manufacturers address
deterioration in their additive packages by recommending scheduled coolant changes.
Cooling System Service Tips
The contamination on the flat side of this timing belt came from a leaking water pump.
Since a vehicle’s temperature gauge indicates only that the vehicle operating temperature is
generally within normal ranges, scan tools are essential for diagnosing late-model cooling systems.
Normal ranges include thermostat opening temperatures now exceeding 200° F and cooling fans
that might not activate until operating temperatures exceed 230° F. At the very least, the coolant
and intake air temperatures displayed on the data stream should closely match those taken with a
non-contact pyrometer.
Also check for DTCs indicating a pending or history code problem with thermostatic temperature
control or coolant levels. Check cooling fan operation by turning on the air conditioner with the
engine running. If your scan tool has bi-directional capability, cycle the cooling fans through their
various speed ranges. Always check high-speed fan operation to ensure that the engine will cool in
high-demand situations.
Visually check for debris accumulating between the air conditioner condenser and radiator. Also
check for external leaks, drive belt condition, and cracked or hardened coolant hoses. Visually
inspect the coolant level and color. Rusty or off-colored coolants might indicate that the coolant
needs to be flushed. Low coolant levels indicate internal or external leakage.
Always replace suspect coolant with original equipment or manufacturer-approved coolants.
Because mixing various types of coolants will reduce their freezing and boiling points.

FAQ-19
Cooling systems, overheating, leaks
& electric cooling fans.

The coolant and water mix is pumped through the engine by the water pump. The
job of the liquid is to pick up the heat and carry it to the radiator so it can be
dissipated. The water pump can't pump foam, so they put anti-foaming agents in the
coolant. We know that every car that overheats, does so because of the lack of
coolant (because of a leak) or because of a restriction of the flow (closed thermostat,
plugged radiator, or a water pump that's not pumping because of a drive belt that
broke or an impeller that's come loose).

The thermostat's job is to open when the coolant gets too hot and let the coolant
travel faster into the radiator. If it senses the coolant is too cold, it closes to slow
down the flow to keep the coolant in the engine longer.

We all know that water boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit. For every pound of
pressure, you put water under, it will raise the boiling point approximately 2 degrees.
So a good 15-pound radiator cap will raise the water's boiling point 30 degrees from
212 to 242 degrees Fahrenheit. Add 50 % of coolant and the boiling point of the
mixture is well over 265 degrees Fahrenheit.

We know that steam can't be pumped by the water pump, that's why we need the
coolant to stay in a liquid form. It's important to know we want today's cars to operate
at 220 degrees Fahrenheit. So if the coolant turns to steam too early because of a
bad radiator cap or a weak mix of coolant and water, the car will overheat at 230
degrees or so, which leaves little room for an extended stop at a traffic light on a hot
summer day.

Very few overheated cars are fixed with just a radiator cap and I've never seen a car
fixed with a flush. Flushing a car to fix an overheat is like rinsing out your mouth with
mouthwash to kill cavities. A flush is done after the repair, not as the repair.

When should I flush my car's cooling system?

Flush your cooling system once a year. The best time is at the beginning of the
summer or the beginning of the winter. A good technician will flush the engine block
and heater core. He will clean out the overflow bottle and test the radiator cap. He
will fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of coolant. He will pressure test the
system at a few pounds over the normal operating pressure. If after a short time
there is no pressure loss indicating a coolant leak and none of the hoses blow or
swell up, then all is OK.

It's the anti-foaming agents, the rust inhibitors, and the water pump lubricants that
wear out. With the price of plastic tank radiators approaching $6-800 and damage
related to the deterioration of aluminum timing covers costing $600 to $1,000 to
repair, why not spend between $60 and $125 for a cooling system flush every 30k or
so?

If a 50/50 mix of water and coolant is good,

how come 65/35 isn’t better?

Remember that antifreeze needs water to work. You should never use a mixture of
more than 60% coolant or antifreeze. You see the ability of the coolant mix to carry
heat away is reduced by an over concentration of coolant. So your protection against
boil over or freezing actually goes down after 60% coolant, 40% water.

Overheating problems

Your engine will overheat for a few reasons:

1. Lack of coolant. This is created by a leak and the symptoms are typically the same
each time it overheats. You fill up the radiator, everything is OK for a while (20 miles
maybe) then it overheats. It overheats because the leak creates a shortage of water
or coolant.

The repair is to simply pressure test the cooling system and find and fix the leak. We
have hand held pumps which we attached to the neck of the radiator after we
remove the radiator cap. We look at the pressure limit of the cap. It might say 13 psi.
We then pump air into the radiator and cooling system until the gauge reads 13+ psi.
The newer the system, the higher over the cap pressure you can go. Likewise, if you
have a 15-year-old cooling system, you better not pump the system to 20 psi with a
12-pound cap or you will pop it like a balloon. This cooling system pressure test is
typically $25-40 dollars.

2. Lack of circulation. This is caused by a closed thermostat, a plugged radiator or a

bad water pump belt or a bad water pump.

If the engine seems to overheat more around town and seems to be fine on the
highway, that is a clear indication that the air flow across the radiator has been
effected. This typically means a bad fan clutch or a bad electric fan or relay or the
sensor that is supposed to trigger the fan relay that turns the fan on.

If the engine seems to be fine while driven slowly (35-45 mph) and overheats quickly
on the highway (55+) and takes forever to cool down, you should suspect a plugged
radiator.

3. The engine is consuming the coolant. This is created by a bad head gasket or a
broken engine block and has some very specific symptoms. And water in the oil is
only one of the many symptoms we look for. For the record, a head gasket can be
bad and we won’t find a drop of coolant in the oil cause all the coolant that is leaking
into the cylinder is being sent out the exhaust and is not going into the engine oil
system.

The first thing you may notice is the engine misses when it is restarted after it has
sat for between 15 minutes up to 3 or more hours. When the engine is shut off,
coolant is forced by pressure into one of the cylinders and when the engine is
restarted, the coolant causes a miss until all the coolant is forced out into the
exhaust. You may or may not see steam come from the tailpipe. STEAM FROM THE
TAILPIPE ALONE IS NEVER ENOUGH TO CONDEMN THE HEAD GASKET. All
cars have to deal with moisture in the exhaust on a cold morning start up, so steam
from the tailpipe is very normal as the catalytic converter heats up and boils the
water sent to it by the cold engine.

There are three tests we use to find a bad head gasket or being more precise, a
coolant leak into the combustion chamber.

1. We use a dye and suck the fumes out of the radiator and run them through this
blue dye. If the dye turns yellow, that means the presence of exhaust gases in the
cooling system.

I must tell you I don’t think much of this test. The positive results of this test mean
nothing ALL BY THEMSELVES.

2. Apply pressure to the cooling system and watch the pressure gauge as you rev
the engine. If the pressure rises quickly, that is a very good indication there is a
combustion leak.

3. Fill the cooling system up with coolant, drive the engine till it gets good and warm.
Park the car and shut off the engine. Make sure the upper house is stiff and hard
which indicates good cooling system pressure. Apply external pressure if needed via
a cooling system pressure pump. After allowing the engine to cool for about 30
minutes, pull the plugs and crank the engine over. If any coolant comes blasting out
of any cylinder spark plug hole, there is no doubt the engine has a combustion leak.

I make our techs perform all three tests and the car has to fail all three tests before
we can say for sure this engine has an internal combustion leak, like a bad head
gasket or broken or cracked head.
Electric Cooling Fans.

You have to understand how they work in order to fix problems in electric cooling fan
circuits:

A/C OFF = A single wire temperature switches or sender is screwed into radiator or
the engine, normally close to the t-stat housing. This switch or sender provides a
ground to the cooling fan relay which passes battery power to the fan motor(s). To
test this circuit, you simply remove the single wire from the switch or sender and
ground it for no longer than the count of 1-2 and the radiator cooling fan should come
on. If not, the fan relay is bad and/or the power from the battery through the relay to
the fan is defective and/or the fan motor is bad. If you suspect the motor, hit it with
the wooden handle of a hammer then ground the sending wire again and see if it
tries to spin.

A/C ON = The fan may run all the time when the A/C is on or be triggered on by
another pressure switch in the A/C system. This switch is often in the back of the A/C
compressor or in an A/C line. Otherwise, if the high pressure side of the A/C system
gets to 350 psi, the switch closes and grounds the relay which turns on the radiator
cooling fan