Hair growth cycle

Anti-hairloss and
Hair growth promoter

Hair cycle of head hair shaft

Stage of the hair cycle

‰ Anagen : the growing phase

‰ Catagen: the intermediate phase Hair growth cycle

‰ Telogen : the shedding phase 3
Exp. Gerontol. 2002;37:981-90. 4

Causes of hair loss

Hair Loss
‰ Hair follicle gradually terminated
‰ Terminal hair changes to vellus hair
Vellus hair : Terminal hair = 6-8 : 1 Normal
Vellus hair : Terminal hair = 0.1-3.9 : 1 Bald
„ Reduction in hair follicle function due to
male hormones
„ Reduction in metabolic functions of hair
follicles and hair bulbs
„ Reduction in scalp physiological functions
„ Local impairment of circulation due to
tension in the scalp

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Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 1

 „ Physical stress
Hair Loss Overall causes
„ Emotional stress
„ Androgen
„ Diet considerations
„ Hormonal causes „ Genetic
„ Endocrinopathy „ Age
„ Oral medications:
‰ Blood thinning agents
‰ Retinoids Androgenic alopecia
‰ Antihypertensive agents

‰ Miscellaneous Testosterone 5α-Dihydrotestosterone

7 8

Semin. Cutan. Med. Surg. 1998;17:276-283. 9 Semin. Cutan. Med. Surg. 1998;17:276-283. 10

A. Regional scalp
hair density scale
B. Regional scalp
zones F : Frontal
M : Mid
T : Temporal
V : Vertex

Regions of scalp potentially involved in pattern hair loss

J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2001;45(suppl):S70-80. 11
J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2003;48:253-62. 12

Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 2

 Hair loss patterns in male
Male Pattern Diffuse Frontal Accentuation
(Hamilton/Norwood) (Ludwig) (Olsen)

J. Am. Acad. Dermatol.

1985;13:185-92. Hair loss patterns in female
13
J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2003;48:253-62. 14

Graduation of hair loss in Ludwig pattern Graduation of hair loss in frontal accentuation pattern

J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2003;48:253-62. 15

J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2003;48:253-62. 16

Big head? Bald head?

Savin patterns of hair loss

Med. Hypo. 2009; 72: 23-28.

J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 1999;40:106-9. 17 18

Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 3

 Hair care products Basic ingredient and function
„ Detergent : removes dirt, styling products, sebum
and skin scale from hair and scalp
„ Foaming agent: allows shampoo to foam
„ Hair cleansing products
„ Conditioner : soften and smoothen hair after
„ Hair growth promoters sebum removal
„ Hair grooming cosmetics „ Thickener : thicken shampoo
„ Opacifier : makes shampoo opaque
„ Hair waving and straightening products
„ Hair coloring products

19 20

Basic shampoo categories

Basic ingredient and function
„ Normal hair shampoo
„ Sequestering agent : prevent soap scum from „ Dry hair shampoo
forming on hair and scalp in hard water „ Damaged hair shampoo
„ pH adjusters or neutralizer : minimize hair „ Oily hair shampoo
damage from base „ Everyday shampoo
„ Fragrance : give acceptable smell „ Deep cleaning shampoo
„ Preservative : prevent microbial and fungal „ Baby shampoo
contaminations „ Medicated shampoo
„ Specialty additive : treatment ingredient or „ Conditioning shampoo
marketing aid to impart other benefit to shampoo „ Hair dyeing shampoo
21 „ Ethnic shampoo 22

Active ingredients : Hair loss Active ingredients : Hair loss

„ Finasteride : 5α-reductase Type II inhibitor

„ Minoxidil : vasodilator (long lasting anagen)
„ Dutasteride or GI198745 : 5α-reductase inhibitor
„ Iamin or prezatide copper : 5α-reductase inhibitor
„ Folligen or copper chloride : 5α-reductase inhibitor
„ Zinc : hair growth, 5α-reductase Type I inhibitor
„ Polysorbate 80 : hair growing improvement
„ MK-386 or β-dimethyl-4-aza-5-cholestan-3-
one: 5α-reductase inhibitor
„ WO9704002 : 5α-reductase inhibitor
„ FCE28260 : 5α-reductase inhibitor
„ FCE26073 or Turosteride : 5α-reductase
Type II inhibitor
„ Ketoconazole : Androgenetic blocker

23 24

Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 4

 Active ingredients : Hair loss Active ingredients : Hair loss

„ Canrenone 2% „ Amino acids : hair growth and healthy, 5α-

„ Spironolactone 3% reductase inhibitor
„ Dexamethasone „ Biotin : hair nutrient and hair growth
„ Prednisone „ Folic acid : hair nutrient and hair growth
„ Cyclosporin A „ Procyanidin B3 : hair thickener
„ Cyproterone acetate „ Azelaic acid : strong DHT inhibitor
„ Flutamide „ Ferritin
„ Drospirenone
„ B7, B12
„ Bromocriptine
25 26

Active ingredients : Hair loss 5α-reductase inhibitor

„ Phytoestrogens Hair regrowth promoter
‰ Isoflavone
„ Daizein
„ Genistein „ Essential fatty acid
„ Glycitein
‰ γ-linolenic acid, α-linolenic acid, palmitoleic
‰ Lignans acid, oleic acid, myristoleic acid
„ Enterodiol
‰ palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic
„ Enterlactone acid
„ Bisnapthaquinone ‰ Evening primrose oil
„ Capsaicin ‰ Emu oil
„ (-)-epoglaaocatechin-3-gallate „ β-sitosterol
„ Soymethide-4
27 28

Saw palmetto : Serenoa repens Pygeum : Pygeum africanum

- DHT formation inhibitor - Androgenic blocker

- 5α-reductase inhibitor - 5α-reductase inhibitor
29 30

Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 5

 Chillies

- Capsaicin

Holy basil : Ocimum sanctum

31 32

Fenugreek : Trigonella foenum False daisy: Eclipta alba

- Multivitamin B
- Hair root strengthen
- DHT formation inhibitor
- Hair growth promoter

33 34

False daisy: Eclipta alba Fennel : Foeniculum vulgare

Treatment Folicle count Skin thickness, μm Anagen induction, %

1% minoxidil 69 ± 3.9 160.2 ± 10 87.5

2% minoxidil 73 ± 8.2 253.25 ± 6.6 87.5

1.6 mg E.alba 39 ± 8.4 417.4 ± 35.9 50

3.2 mg E.alba 66 ± 7.3 480.4 ± 41.2 87.5

- Antiinflammatory
- Androgenic blocker

J. Ethanopharmacol. 2009. doi:10.1016/j.jep.2009.05.023

- 5α-reductase inhibitor
35 36

Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 6

 Nettle : Urtica dioica Bayberry : Myrica rubra

- 5α-reductase inhibitor
- Androgenic blocker - Hair growth stimulant
- DHT blocker - Anti hair loss
- 5α-reductase inhibitor
- Blood circulator
37 38

Arborvitae : Thuja Arborvitae : Thuja

- 5α-reductase
Type II inhibitor
- sebum reduction Compounds 5α-reductase Type II inhibitor, IC50
Linoleic acid 31.55 μg/ml (112.50 μM)
γ-Linolenic acid 5.55 μg/ml (19.93 μM)
T. occidentalis 2.6 μg/ml
Finasteride 0.34 μM

J. Dermatol. Sci. 2003; 31: 91-98.

39 40

Avocado : Persea americana

Gourds

- 5α-reductase Type I inhibitor

- Sebum secretion reduction
- Antidandruff
- 5α-reductase inhibitor - Antiitching
- Anti hair loss

41 42

Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 7

 Hop : Humulus lupulus Burdock : Arctium lappa

- 5α-reductase inhibitor
- Hair growth stimulant - Scalp tonics
- Scalp tonics - Antidandruff
- Antiitching
- Anti hair loss
- Hair sheening

43 44

Pumpkin Grape seeds

- proanthocyanidins
- in vitro hair follicle proliferation promotion
- in vivo Telogen converts to Anagen
- 5α-reductase inhibitor

45 46

Willow - Antiinflammatory Black cohosh : Cimicifuga racemosa

- 5α-reductase inhibitor
- Hair loss treatment

- 5α-reductase inhibitor

47 48

Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 8

 Ginkgo : Ginkgo biloba
Soy bean Flax seed
- Hair regrowth promoter
- Astringent
- Epidermis growth stimulant
- Antiinflammatory
- Radical scavenger

- 5α-reductase inhibitor
- Grey hair treatment

49 50

Tea : Camellia sinensis Sophora : Sophora flavescens

- Antioxidant
- Androgenic blocker - 5α-reductase Type II
-5α-reductase inhibitor inhibitor

-Similar activity with - Anagen elongation

saw palmetto activity

51 52

Licorice : Glycyrrhiza glabra Breadfruit: Artocarpus incisus

- DHT formation inhibitor 5α-reductase Type II inhibitor

- Hair loss treatment - Chlorophorin IC50 37 μM
- Artocarpin IC50 85 μM
Melanin biosynthesis inhibition

Planta Medica 2000; 66: 16-19.

53 54

Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 9

 Henna : Lawsonia inermis Linn.
Aloe : Aloe vera L.

Hair growth accelerator -

Leaf extracts have mild
antiinflammatory and antiallergic action
and analgesic effect
- Traditionally for hair loss

Impart dark red shades : - Improve hair growth

Lawsone following alopecia

55 56

Rhinacanthus nasutus Kurz. Butterfly pea : Clitoria ternatea

- Hair loss treatment

- Grey hair treatment
- Antiinflammatory
- Antioxidant
- Hair growth promoter
- Grey hair recover
57 58

Citrus hystrix DC. Citrus grandis

Skin & scalp tonic

Exfoliation refresh

- Wound healing
- Antidandruff
- Soft & smooth hair
59 60

Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 10

 Sapindus rarak A. DC. Acacia concinna DC.

Wound healing
- Cleansing
- Shining
- Antidandruff

61 62

Sesame : Sesamum indicum Linn. Centella asiatica (L.) Urb.

Antioxidant
Wound healing
- Skin & scalp soother Blood circulation
- Antioxidant Scalp conditioning
Energy stimulant
- Natural moisturizer
Detergent
Anti hair loss

63 64

Coconut : Cocos nucifera Linn. Cymbopogon citratus Stapf

- Oily and grease hair treatment

- Antidandruff
- Antiseptic
- Saturated fatty acid
- Lauric acid
- Myristic acid

65 66

Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 11

 Garlic : Allium sativum L. Ginger : Zingiber officinale Roscoe

- Dandruff control
- Antiseptic
- Tonic
- Antioxidant
- Antiinflammatory
- Antiinflammatory
- Antibacterial
- Blood circulation stimulant
- Antifungal
- Muscle relaxation
- Hair loss treatment
67 68

Rice: Oryza sativa

Ginseng : Panax ginseng
- Skin & scalp conditioning
- Moisturizer
- Emollient
- Antioxidant
- Skin & scalp soften
- Aniinflammaroty
- Blood circulation
- Cell regeneration

69 70

Almond: Prunus amygdalus Sage : Salvia officinalis L.

- Skin conditioning
- Moisturizer
- Sun protect
- Hair conditioning
- Maintain the sheen of dark curly hair
- Strengthen and stimulate hair growth
- Antidandruff
- Anti hair loss
- Greasy hair treatment
71 72

Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 12

 Thyme :Thymus vulgaris L.
Rosemary : Rosmarinus officinalis Linn.

- Stimulate hair growth

- Antioxidant
- Greasy hair conditioner
- Gives body and sheen to hair
- Daily antidandruff treatment
- Inhibit dandruff
- A scalp rub to prevent hair falling out
- Promote natural hair health

73 74

Swertia japonica Makino English Walnut Juglans regia L.

- Eczema
- Acne
- Hair loss
- Scalp itching
- Scalp peeling

- abdominal pain - Dandruff Black walnut : Juglan nigra

- skin infection - Emollient
- blood circulation - Skin disorder treatment: crack, abrasion, frostbite, chaps
- hair growth stimulant - Sun burn treatment
75 - Nappy rashes 76

Honey Propolis

- Antifungal
- Hair growth promoter
- Antibacterial
- Skin & scalp conditioning
- Similar activity with aloe

77 78

Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 13

 Plants Parts 5α-reductase inhibitory activity, %
Alpinia galanga Leaves 0 Hair loss treatment example products
Tamarindus indica Leaves 0
Albizia myriophylla Leaves 5
Acacia concinna Fruits 21
Flagellaria indica Leaves 23 Provillus
Leucaena leucocephala Leaves 25
Citrus hystrix Fruit peels 25
Clitoria ternatea Flowers 29
Eucalyptus sp. Leaves 47
Passiflora foetida Fruits 47
Piper betle Leaves 51
Mitragyna hirsuta Leaves 53
Artocarpus altilis Leaves 75
Ixora maerothyra Leaves 79
Citrus hystrix Fruit juices 14

79 80
J. Wood Sci. 2000; 46: 385-389 Conc. 200 μg/ml

Hair loss treatment example products Hair loss treatment example products
- Kigelia africana
- Niacin
- Salvia sclarea - Biotin
- Plant Phytosterols
- Gingko biloba - Saw Palmetto Berry
- Macadameia Nut oil
- Cinnamomum zeylanicum - Borage Oil
- Panax ginseng - Evening Primrose oil
- Pygeum africana
- Green tea extract

81 82

Hair loss treatment example products Hair loss treatment example products
- Linolenic acid
- Linoleic Acid
- Oleic Acid
- Azaleic acid
- Vitamin B6
- Zinc
Minoxidil 5% w/v for men - Saw Palmetto Extract
- β-Sitosterol
- Procyanidin Oligomers

Minoxidil 2% for women

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Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 14

 Hair loss treatment example products Hair loss treatment example products

- Hops extract
- Rosemary extract
- Swertia extract
- Saw palmetto
- Si compounds - zinc
- Panthenol - nettles
- pumpkin seed extract

85 86

Hair loss treatment example products Hair loss treatment example products
- Soy bean
- Panax ginseng
- Castanea sativa
- Arinca montana - Swertia extract
- Hedera helix
- Geranium maculatum
- Inositol, Panthenol
- Cystine, Cysteine, Methionine
- Biotin 87 88

Hair loss treatment example products Hair loss treatment example products

- Biotin
- Zinc PCA
- Panax ginseng, Ginkgo biloba, Swertia
japonica, Palmaria palmata, Soy bean germ,
Glycyrrhiza glabra extracts
- Simmondsia chinensis Oil,
- Benzyl Nicotinate, Inositol, L-Cystine,
Cysteine, Choline, Niacin, Methionine

89 90

Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 15

 Hair growth promoters evaluations Hair growth promoters evaluations
Animals Mice
„ hair length

„ hair growth area

Humans „ photographic evaluation
Rabbits
„ trichogram method
„ hair length and weight
„ 5α-reductase inhibition
Hamsters
„ hair wash test
„ sebaceous glands size (in vivo)
„ blood flow measurement
„ 5α-reductase inhibition (in vitro)
Tissue culture „ hair roots culture
„ DHT receptor inhibition (in vitro)
„ hair root cells culture
Monkeys
„ hair growth at head

91 92

Hair growth promoters evaluations : Mice Biometrological Test

Hair Loss / Hair Growth

Principle
- Anti-hair loss efficacy
- Anti-hair regrowth products
- Videomicroscope visualizations
Protocol design
- Long term studies: M0-M1-M2
Videotrichogram®
- Up to M0-M3-M6 studies
- Female and male volunteers
- No age criteria
30 days application of Asiasari radix extract 1% solution in 40% EtOH

Illustrations :
J. Dermsci. 2005; 38:89-97. 93 the telogenous hairs D0
94
D2

Selected references
„ Lee OS, Kang HH, Han SH. 1997. Oriental herbs in cosmetics. Cosmet
Thank you for your attention
Toiletries 112:57-64.
„ Kameyama S. 1995. Application and consideration of medicinal plants for
hair care products. Frag J 23:28-34.
„ Takahashi T, Kamiya T, Yokoo Y. 1998. Proanthocyanidins from grape
seeds promote proliferation of mouse hair follicle cells in vitro and convert
hair cycle in vivo. Acta Derm Venerol 78:428-432.
„ Kim SH, Jeong KS, Ryu SY, Kim TH. 1998. Panax ginseng prevents apoptosis
in hair follicles and accelerates recovery of hair medullary cells in
irradiated mice. In vivo 12:219-222.
„ Camacho-Martínez FM. 2009. Hair loss in women. Semi. Cutan. Med. Surg.
28:19-32.
„ Yonenaga M. 2001. Henna leaf extracts and makeup materials containing
henna. Jpn Kokai Tokkyo Koho Patent JP2001335496.
„ Bruneton J. 1999. Pharmacognosy, Phytochemistry, Medicinal Plants.
Lavoisier Publishing: Paris.

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Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 16