BIO SAND FILTER (BSF) FOR A BETTER WATER DRINKING QUALITY

THAT EVERYONE CAN AFFORD.

ABSTRACT: In this modern era, water quality has been posing a threat to many lives especially children due to the
rapid developments present in urban environment. Supplying safe water for drinking for the growing population in this
rapid developing world has eventually become a very difficult task to be accomplished. The need to get safe water for
drinking is immediately globally realized due to its critical state. The latest study to solve this problem applied human
technology and environment factors in creating safe water through proper and convenient technological intervention
and sustainable water through environment and human intervention. The quality of water was analyzed for the purpose
of understanding the existing water quality. Hence, a prototype of BSF , known as Bio Sand Filter was created with the
purposed of providing safe water that will effectively removes bacteria and reduces diarrheal disease with it being a
low cost water filter and lesser maintenance comparing to other filters.

INTRODUCTION Bio-sand filters (BSF) are one of the great

Water has always been an important and life
sustaining drinks for human being and it is important for
the survival of all organisms in earth, yet in 2008, World
Health Organization revealed that about 88% of all
cases of diarrhea that experience by humans are caused
by unsafe drinking water, substandard sanitation, and
improper hygiene (Pruss-Ustun et al., 2008). These
resulted in the deaths of estimated at 2.2 million annually
as a result from contaminated water. It is extremely
difficult to imagine what will this living things in earth
will be experiencing if they are living without any access
to safe drinking water.
There has been a significant growth in household
water treatment system (HWTSs) in the past few years.
These treatment has been considered as low cost and
effective in preventing or decreasing the waterborne
disease in rural areas (Clasen et al., 2006). Despites of
having numerous methods of treatment, limitations such
as ineffectiveness has been found in it as it ineffective in
removing contaminants or properly disinfecting the
water yet, it requires such a high operation and
maintenance costs (Earwaker, 2006).
An ideal water treatment system for developing
countries should be able to remove all chemical and
microbial contaminants in just one single filtration
process while remaining their permeability and reactivity
over extended years. Besides for being able to remove or
significantly reduce contaminants in water, it should be
low cost and readily available materials that anyone
especially those in rural areas may be able to afford it.
sustainability innovation that uses filtration system
developed from slow sand filters which can significantly
remove pathogens and suspended solids from the
available water. BSF is easy to operate and less cost as
compared to other filtration system such as chlorination
and solar disinfection. BSF is able to remove pathogens
and suspended solids through the combination of
biological physical processes that will take place in the
bio layer which is located within the sand column. It is
proved that BSF capable to reduce the discoloration,
odor and unpleasant taste of water and also effectively
remove 5 % – 64 % of heavy metals and 90% - 99% of
turbidity and contaminants such as protozoa, viruses and
bacteria.
Bio Sand Filter (BSF) designed by Dr. David Manz
in the late 1980s at University of Calgary, Canada. This
system uses slow sand as their filter concept that has
been used for drinking water purification for about 200
years before. Lab and field tests were conducted in the
year of 1991 and the system was patented in 1993. In
1993, after the system was patented, Nicaragua, Canada
implemented BSF and this officially marks the first BSF
to be used.
The aim of the study is to design and test a low-cost
household level water treatment device that able to
provide safe water in region where safe water supply is
not available or reliable.

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METHODOLOGY & MATERIALS
Bucket /Drum
Tools Gravel and Sand
Tools: 12 mm (½") sieve, 6 mm (¼”) sieve ,1 mm
(0.04”) sieve, 0.7 mm (0.03”)
sieve ,Shovels ,Wheelbarrow (if available), Several large
containers approximately 40 cm (15”) deep ,Small clear
container with lid.
Materials : Covers (e.g. tarps or plastic sheets), roof
or building to keep the sand from getting wet and
contaminated ,Clean water, 12 mm (½”) gravel ,6 mm
(¼”) gravel, 0.7 mm
Steps
A: SAND AND GRAVEL SIEVE
1. The sand must be passed through the 12 mm
(½”) sieve, the 6 mm (¼“) sieve, the 1 mm
(0.04”) sieve, and the 0.7 mm (0.03”) sieve, in
that order.
2. Discard the material that does not pass through
the 12 mm (½”) sieve.
3. Store the material that is captured by the 6 mm
(¼”) sieve – this is used for your drainage gravel
layer.
4. Store the material that is captured by the 1 mm
(0.04”) sieve – this is used for your separating
gravel layer.
5. Store the material that is captured by the 0.7
mm (0.03”) sieve – A portion of this material is
used to make the concrete filter box while the
other portion is sieved further to make the
filtration sand.
6. The material that passes through the 0.7 mm
(0.03”) sieve is the filtration sand that goes into
your filter.
B: WASH GRAVEL
1. Place about 2-3 litres (0.5-1 gallon) of 12 mm
(½”) gravel in a container.
2. Put twice as much water in the container.
3. Using your hand, swirl the gravel around until
the water becomes quite dirty
4. Pour the dirty water out of the container.
5. Repeat the process until the water in your
container is clear.
6. Wash the rest of the 12 mm (½”) gravel, using
the same method (a little at a time).
7. Repeat steps 1 to 6 for the 6 mm (¼”) gravel.
8. Place all of the gravel on a cover or concrete
surface in the sun to dry. This step is especially
important if the gravel or the wash water might
be microbiologically contaminated.
9. Store the gravel under cover to keep it dry. You
can also package it in bags or containers ready
for use in the installation process
C: WASH FILTRATION SAND
1. Put a small amount of the 0.7 mm (0.03”) sand in
the container (approximately 10 cm (4”) deep).
2. Put double the amount of water in the container.
3. Using your hand, swirl the sand around the
container 10 times very quickly, making sure your
fingers touch the bottom of the container and get
all of the sand moving.
4. Quickly decant the dirty water.
5. Repeat steps 1 to 4 as many times as determined
in the flow rate testing section
6. Wash the rest of the sand using the same method
(steps 1 to 5).
7. Place all of the sand and gravel on a tarp or
concrete surface in the sun to dry. This step is
especially important if the sand, gravel, or the
wash water might be biologically contaminated.
8. Store the sand under cover once it is dry.
D. JAR TEST
 The first time you wash the sand, it is necessary to
experiment with the washing procedure in order to
determine the proper number of washes.
 Wash the sand as described in steps 1 to 5 above.
As you wash, count the number of times that you
decant your container.
 Initially, it is a trial and error process – but that is
why its important to count how many times you wash
the sand, so that once you get the correct flow rate,
you can repeat the same process. To estimate if the
sand has been washed adequately, put some sand into
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 a clear container with an equal amount of clear water.
Put the lid on and swirl it. Looking from the side of
the container, 3-4 seconds after you stop swirling,
you should be able to see the surface of the sand.
 Your sand and gravel sources may vary so the
number of times that you wash the sand will have to
be adjusted periodically, but after some time you
should develop the ability to know when the sand has
been adequately washed, just by looking at the wash
water in your container
E. FLOW TEST RATE
1. For the final test of the sand, install a biosand filter
on site using your filtration sand and gravel, and test
the flow rate. The flow rate should be 0.4 L/minute
when the filter is installed.
 If the flow rate is much greater than 0.4 L/minute,
the sand has been washed too much. You must
decrease the number of times that you wash the sand.
A flow rate that is too fast is not acceptable – the
filter will not be effective.
 If the flow rate is much less than 0.4 L/minute, the
sand hasn’t been washed enough. You must increase
the number of times that you wash the sand. The
filter will still function if the flow rate is too slow,
but it may plug more often, requiring more frequent
maintenance. If the flow rate is just slightly less than
0.4 L/minute, it can be left as is – as long as the flow
rate isn’t so slow that it is inconvenient for the user.
Tools to install one water filter
Tools: Tape measure, A stick [approximately 100 cm
(40”) long, 2.5 cm x 5 cm (1” x 2”) is preferred],
Diffuser, Storage container ,Watch ,Measuring container
with 1 litre mark 1 m (3’) of hose that just fits over the
outlet tube, Hose clamp (if available) ,Funnel (can be
made from the top of a pop or water.
Materials : Approximately 3 litres of washed 12 mm
(½”) gravel (drainage layer), Approximately 3¼ litres of
washed 6 mm (¼”) gravel (separating
layer) ,Approximately 25 litres of washed 0.7 mm
(0.03”) sand , 40-80 litres (10-20 gallons) of water
F. POSITION OF FILTER
It is important to determine a good location for the
filter. Locating the filter inside the home is important not
only for filter effectiveness, but also for the convenience
of the user. If the users can access the filter easily, they
will be more likely to use and maintain it. Once filled
with sand, the filter should not be moved. The filter
should be placed:
 In a protected location away from sunlight, wind,
rain, animals, and children
 Preferably inside the home on level ground
 Near the food preparation or kitchen area
(depending on the space and layout of the home)
 Where it will be used and maintained easily
 So that water can easily be poured in the top
 Where there’s adequate room for hauling and
pouring pails of water into the filter, as well as
storing the filtered water
G. PLACE OF SAND
1. Ensure that the outlet tube at the bottom inside of
the filter is clear and unobstructed (i.e. not covered
by concrete or plugged by debris.) The flow rate
through the tubing without any sand in the filter
should be about 1 litre/minute. After the flow has
stopped, the water level should be slightly below
the diffuser
2. Ensure that the inside of the filter has been cleaned
out (including dirt, dust, and oil from the mold).
3. Place a stick inside the filter so that it’s touching
the bottom of the filter.
4. Draw a horizontal line on the stick where it meets
the top edge of the filter.
5. Measure and mark a line 5 cm (2”) down from the
first line.
6. Fill the filter half full of water.
7. Add approximately 5 cm (2”) of 12 mm (½”) gravel
to the filter. This is the drainage layer.
8. Level out the gravel, and use the stick to measure
how much has been added. Place the bottom of the
stick on the gravel. When the 2nd line on the stick
lines up with the top edge of the filter, you have
added enough gravel
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9. Measure and mark a third line 5 cm (2”) down from
the second line.
10. Add approximately 5 cm (2”) of 6 mm (¼”) gravel
to the filter. This is the separating layer.
11. Level out the gravel and use the stick to measure
how much has been added. Again, place the bottom
of the stick on the gravel. When the 3rd line on the
stick lines up with the top edge of the filter, you
have added enough gravel.
12. Quickly pour approximately 30 litres of washed
sand to the filter (ensuring that there is always
water above the surface of the sand).
13. Fill the filter with water and let it run until water
stops pouring out of the outlet tube. When this
happens the water level is equalized.
14. Smooth out the sand and then measure the depth of
the water above the sand bed.
15. If the water depth is less than 3 cm (1.2”): remove
sand until the depth is 5 cm (2”) (with the sand
surface level and the water level equalized).
16. If the water depth is more than 5 cm (2”): add more
sand and then repeat steps 13 to 17. Continue until
the water depth is 5 cm (2”). 17.
17. Swirl the top layer of sand and dump out the muddy
water to prevent the sand from plugging.
18. Smooth out the surface of the sand so that it’s as
level as possible.
H. FLUSH THE FILTER
1. Place the diffuser inside the filter
2. Place a storage container under the outlet tube.
The water that it captures can be reused
3. Pour the cleanest available water into the filter
( turbidity should be less than 50 NTU).
4. Observe the water coming out of the outlet tube.
5. Continue adding water to the filter until the water
coming out is clear. This may take 40-80 litres (10-
20 gallons) of water.
6. Note the water level after the flow has stopped.
The water level should be slightly below the
Diffuser
I. TEST FLOW RATE OF FILTER
1 Fill the filter reservoir to the top with water.
2 Place the measuring container under the outlet
tube to collect the filtered water.
3 Measure the time it takes to fill the container to
the 1 litre mark. The flow rate should be at a
maximum of 0.4 litre/minute (see table to the
right to convert seconds per litre into litres per
minute).
4 If the flow rate is very slow (less than 0.3
L/minute, taking more than 3 minutes to fill the
measuring container to 1 litre):
 The filter will still work but it may plug faster
requiring more frequent maintenance.
 If it takes too long to filter a pail of water, the
user may become impatient and use unfiltered
water instead.
 The flow rate can be improved by “swirling”
the top layer of the sand and then scooping out
the dirty water.
 If a few “swirl & dumps” do not improve the
flow rate substantially, the sand is either too fine
or too dirty. In this case, the sand hasn’t been
washed enough and needs to be replaced. 5. If
the flow rate is faster than 0.4 L/minute, the
filter may not work efficiently. In this case, the
sand has been washed too much and needs to be
replaced. A less preferable option is to run a
considerable amount of water through the filter
until the flow rate decreases (due to the capture
of finer solids and faster growth of the biolayer
J. FOLLOW UP
1. ESTABLISHING THE BIOLAYER The
biolayer is the key component of the filter
that removes pathogens. Without it, the
filter removes about 30-70% of the
pathogens through mechanical trapping and
adsorption. The ideal biolayer will increase
the treatment efficiency up to 99% removal
of pathogens.
2. It may take up to 30 days for the biolayer to
fully form. During that time, both the
removal efficiency and the oxygen demand
will increase as the biolayer grows. The
biolayer is NOT visible – it is NOT a green
slimy coating on top of the sand. The
filtration sand may turn a darker colour, but
this is due to the suspended solids that have
become trapped.
3. The water from the filter can be used during
the first few weeks while the biolayer is
being established, but disinfection, as
always, is recommended during this time.
DAILY USE
All household users, including children,
need to be taught how and why the filter works and
about its correct operation and maintenance. Children
are frequently the main users of the filter. Proper use
includes the following practices:
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 Use the filter at least once every 1-2 days,
preferably 2-4 times each day
 Use the same source of water every day to improve
the treatment efficiency
 Use the best source of water (least contaminated)
that is available – the better the source water, the
better the treated water will be
 The turbidity of the source water should be less
than 50 NTU. If it is more turbid, then sediment or
strain the water before using the biosand filter
. The diffuser must always be in place when pouring
water into the filter – never pour water directly onto
the sand layer. Slowly pour the water into the filter.
 The lid should always be kept on the filter
 Use a separate container for collecting the source
water
 Use a separate safe storage container that has the
following qualities:
 Strong and tightly fitting lid or cover
 Tap or narrow opening at the outlet
 Stable base so it doesn’t tip over
 Durable and strong
 Should not be transparent (see-through)
 Easy to clean
 Store treated water off the ground in a shady place
in the home
 Store treated water away from small children and
animals
 Drinking treated water as soon as possible,
preferably the same day
i. Water must always be allowed to flow freely
from the filter.
ii. Do NOT plug the outlet or connect a hose to it.
Plugging the outlet tube could increase the
water level in the filter, which could kill
the biolayer due to lack of oxygen.
iii. Putting a hose or other device on the outlet can
also siphon or drain the water in the filter,
dropping the water level below the sand
layer and drying out the filter.
iv. Do NOT store food inside the filter. Some
users want to store their food on the
diffuser because it is a cool location. The
water in the top of the filter is contaminated,
so it will contaminate the food. Also, the
food attracts insects to the filter.
v. The filtered water should always be disinfected
to ensure the highest quality
PRECAUTIONS
i. Crushed rock is the best type of filtration
sand since it has less chance of being
contaminated with pathogens or organic
material.
ii. A mixture of grain sizes is required for the
proper functioning of the filter.
iii. Crushed rock is absolutely not available, the
next choice is sand from high on the banks
of a river (that has not been in the water),
followed by sand found in the riverbed itself.
The last choice is beach sand.
iv. River sand is usually contaminated with
pathogens (from human and animal excreta)
and contains organic material (e.g. leaves,
sticks). Putting contaminated sand in the
biosand filter may actually result in worse
water quality than the original source water
used.
v. River sand needs to be disinfected and the
organic material removed if it is going to be
used as filtration sand. You can disinfect the
sand by using chlorine or placing it in the
sun. Disinfection will kill the pathogens;
however it will not remove all of the organic
material. This can only be done by heating
the sand to very high temperatures to burn
off the organic material. This process is very
costly, time consuming and not practical in
most situations. For these reasons, it is
better to spend your time and money to find
a source of crushed rock that provides the
best water quality
vi. Beach sand usually contains salt, organic
material and other contaminants that will
dissolve into the filtered water. You will
need to flush the beach sand with fresh
water to remove the salt. As well, you will
need to disinfect the sand to kill the
pathogens and then remove the organic
material using a similar process as described
previously for the river sand.
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RESULT & DISCUSSION
Figure 1. Comparison of groundwater before and
after purification
Figure 2. Comparison of lake water before and after
purification
Figure 3 Comparison of various source of water
The water quality analysis of sample shows that the
physical, chemical and biological parameters were tested
and from it, water quality test has been conducted with
pH paper and found that the value of pH was 6.2 which
was below the desirable limit. Thus, water might have
some risk of corrosion and metallic taste.
While the biological parameters namely total
microbial count, E.coli, total coliform bacteria, faecal
coliform bacteria and Bureau of Indian Standard (BIS)
the biological parameters for Total Microbial count, if
less than 20 is the good quality of drinking water. Water
without filtration were tested for the biological
parameters and the presences of pathogens were found to
be extremely high. After filtration, it was found that
E.coli, Total coliform bacteria and Feacal Streptocci are
completely removed. Faecal coliform bacteria were only
present in untreated water samples.
CONCLUSION
In conclusion, the main four basic process that
occurs in bio-sand filtering process are; biological layer,
mechanical trapping, absorption, natural death.
The first layer that known as biological layer will
catches the organisms and eventually the bacteria will be
killed as the micro-organisms feed on each other. This
biological layer is located in the first inches of the sand.
When water travel down to the second layer, a
mechanical trapping will occurred and captured the
organisms. The third process is now take place as the
static charges in the sand grains catches the organisms
through absorption. When water travels deeper down the
sand natural death will occurs since there is no more
light and food provide for the organism. This whole
water purification process is simultaneous.
Bio Sand filter have shown to remove the
following from contaminated water:
- Up to 100% of helminthes (worms)
- Up to 100% of protozoa
- Up to 98.5% of bacteria
- 70-99% of viruses
- Up to 95% of turbidity (dirt and cloudiness )
- Up to 95% of iron
Even though bio sand filter might not be able to
remove completely the dissolved contaminants or
chemical such as salt, arsenic and fluoride, it is still
able to provide a safe water amount quality for
drinking. Furthermore, bio sand filter is known as
cost effective, user friendly, durable and provide a
safe water amount quality.
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BIOSAND FILTER DESIGN PROTOTYPE

The following design are still under testing and evaluation and this design may be subject to
changes upon the prototype has been tested.

Procedure:

1. Cut the PVC pipe for case assembly.

2. Assemble the filter case, secure the bottom end by using end cap and assemble the top lid.
3. Assemble the water reservoir by installing water tap, float valve and piping system.
4. Assemble the filter case and the piping system.
5. Fill the filtering medium. Firstly, place the washed gravel for water discharge medium.
6. Fill the washed sand medium.
7. Place the diffuser plate 20mm from top of the sand medium and secure the filter with the top
lid.
8. Connect the filter to the water source and water reservoir.

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WATER TESTING PARAMETERS

The following parameters are based on Drinking Water Quality Standard by Kementrian
Kesihatan Malaysia. While not all of the parameters in the given standard are all identified, we
have chosen some of the critical parameters that could be filtered by out Biosand Filter.
Currently the villagers are disinfecting there drinking water by boiling.
Water testing parameters:
Escherichia coli, E. coli
E. coli is a type of bacteria that normally live in the intestine of human and animal. Some type
of E. coli particularly E. coli O157:H7 can cause intestinal infection. E. coli O157:H7 and other
strains that causes intestinal sickness are called Shiga toxin producing E. coli (STEC) after the
toxin that they produce.

Total coliform count

Total coliforms include bacteria that are found in the soil, in water that has been influenced by
surface water, and in human or animal waste.

Fecal coliform
Fecal coliforms are the group of the total coliforms that are considered to be present specifically
in the gut and faces of warm-blooded animals. Because the origins of fecal coliforms are more
specific than the origins of the more general total coliform group of bacteria, fecal coliforms are
considered a more accurate indication of animal or human waste than the total coliforms.

Salmonella
Salmonella is one of the leading causes of intestinal illness all over the world as well as the
etiological agent of more severe systemic diseases such as typhoid and paratyphoid fevers.
While water is known to be a common vehicle for the transmission of
typhoidal Salmonella serovars, non-typhoidal salmonellae are mainly known as foodborne
pathogens.

Turbidity
Turbidity is a measure of the cloudiness of water. It is used to indicate water quality and
filtration effectiveness (such as whether disease-causing organisms are present). Higher
turbidity levels are often associated with higher levels of disease-causing microorganisms such

8
as viruses, parasites and some bacteria. These organisms can cause symptoms such as nausea,
cramps, diarrhea, and associated headaches.

Suspended solid

Both organic and inorganic particles of all sizes can contribute to the suspended solids
concentration.
Total suspended solids (TSS) are particles that are larger than 2 microns found in the water
column. Anything smaller than 2 microns (average filter size) is considered a dissolved solid.
Most suspended solids are made up of inorganic materials, though bacteria and algae can also
contribute to the total solids concentration. These solids include anything drifting or floating in
the water, from sediment, silt, and sand to plankton and algae. Organic particles from
decomposing materials can also contribute to the TSS concentration. As algae, plants and
animals decay, the decomposition process allows small organic particles to break away and
enter the water column as suspended solids. Even chemical precipitates are considered a form of
suspended solids. Total suspended solids are a significant factor in observing water clarity. The
more solids present in the water, the less clear the water will be.

Some sediment will settle to the bottom of a body of water, while others remain suspended.

9
Some suspended solids can settle out into sediment at the bottom of a body of water over a
period of time. Heavier particles, such as gravel and sand, often settle out when they enter an
area of low or no water flow. Although this settling improves water clarity, the increased silt can
smother benthic organisms and eggs. The remaining particles that do not settle out are called
colloidal or non-settleable solids. These suspended solids are either too small or too light to
settle to the bottom. Settleable solids are also known as bedded sediments, or bedload. These
sediments can vary from larger sand and gravel to fine silt and clay, depending on the flow rate
of water. Sometimes these sediments can move downstream even without re-joining the
suspended solids concentration. When settleable solids are moved along the bottom of a body of
water by a strong flow, it is called bedload transport.

Total dissolved solid

TDS stands for total dissolved solids, and represents the total concentration of dissolved
substances in water. TDS is made up of inorganic salts, as well as a small amount of organic
matter. Common inorganic salts that can be found in water include calcium, magnesium,
potassium and sodium, which are all cations, and carbonates, nitrates, bicarbonates, chlorides
and sulphates, which are all anions. Cations are positively charged ions and anions are
negatively charged ions.

Colour
Ordinarily we think of water as being blue in colour. When artists paint bodies of water they
generally colour them blue or blue-green. While water does reflect blue-green light, noticeable
in great depths, it should appear colourless as used in the home. Ideally, water from the tap is
not blue or blue-green. If such is the case, there are certain foreign substances in the water.
Infinitely small microscopic particles add colour to water. Colloidal suspensions and non-
colloidal organic acids as well as neutral salts also affect the colour of water. The colour in
water is primarily of vegetable origin and is extracted from leaves and aquatic plants. Naturally
water draining from swamps has the most intense colouring. The bleaching action of sunlight
plus the aging of water gradually dissipates this colour, however. All surface waters possess
some degree of colour. Likewise, some shallow wells, springs and an occasional deep well can
contain noticeable colouring. In general, however, water from deep wells is practically
colourless. When water is rated as having a colour of 5 units, it means: the colour of this water
is equal in intensity to the colour of distilled water containing 5 milligrams of platinum as
potassium chloroplatinate per litre. Highly coloured water is objectionable for most process

10
work in the industrial field because excessive colour causes stains. While colour is not a factor
of great concern in relation to household applications, colour in drinking water lacks appeal
from an aesthetic standpoint. Further, when excessively coloured water is used for clothes
washing it can cause staining. The SANS 241 drinking Water Standard recommends that
drinking water has a colour of less than 20mg/l. In general, colour is reduced or removed from
water through the use of coagulation, settling and filtration techniques

11
BUDGET AND ALLOCATION

No. Particulars Price per unit Unit Total (RM)

(RM)
Allocation
1. Allocation from HEP 100.00
2. Allocation from KHIND Starfish 10000.00
Foundation
3. Sponsorship (15%) 1500.00
TOTAL 11600.00
Expenses for prototype production
1 Tools
Utility Knife 30.00 1 30.00
Electric Burner 50.00 1 50.00
Wrench 40.00 1 40.00
Shovels 40.00 2 80.00
Hammer 10.00
4 40.00
Brush 20.00
20.00 1 20.00
Containers
Measuring Tape 20.00 20 400.00
Marker 4.00 2 80.00
Hose Clamp 5.00 5 20.00
Funnel 5.00 2 10.00
Hose 5.00 2 10.00
Tubing 100.00 2 10.00
1 100.00
2 Material
Plastic sheets and sack 10.00 5 50.00
Gravel 75.00 1 ton 75.00
Sand 75.00 1 ton 75.00
Container 200.00 1 200.00
3 Miscellaneous
Face mask 20.00 1 20.00
Gloves 20.00 1 20.00
Transportation fees 600.00 1 600.00
Water Testing Fees 265.00 3 795.00
Rental of Sieve 200.00 1 200.00
TOTAL 2925.00

The following listed budgets for prototype production are subject to change along with the market
material price fluctuation and prototype design.

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