HISTORY – A Brief Visual History of Kowloon

Walled City 38

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Last week, the Wall Street Journal released a new 15-minute documentary about the notorious
Kowloon Walled City, which was torn down by the colonial government in the 1990s. The
collection below focuses more on the exterior with some early photographs and a few rare aerial
shots…
During the Sung Dynasty, between 960 and 1279, East Kowloon’s coastline was a series of salt
pans. The Walled City was originally an outpost set up to manage the trade, though little else
took place in the area until 1668 when 30 guards were stationed there. The intention was to
defend Lei Yue Mun, Kowloon Bay, Hung Hom and Tsim Sha Tsui against foreign invaders and
pirates.
It was developed into a small coastal fort in 1810 and was improved in 1847 following the
arrival of the British. The Convention for the Extension of Hong Kong Territory of 1898 handed
the New Territories over to Britain for 99 years, but excluded the Walled City which, by then,
had a population of around 700…
1898 – the year Britain took control of the New Territories
China was allowed to keep officials there as long as they did not interfere with the defence of
British Hong Kong. The enclosed area measured 6.5 acres and included six watchtowers, four
gates, several military offices, gunpowder stores, weapons stores and soldier’s quarters – all
surrounded by canons.

via richardwonghk on Flickr

Just a year after securing the New Territories, British forces attacked the Walled City after
Governor Sir Henry Blake suspected troops were being gathered to aid a resistance. The attack
on May 16th 1899 revealed that the Viceroy of Canton’s troops (around 500) had disappeared,
leaving only the mandarin and 150 residents.

1910s – The Assistant Magistrate‘s Yamen & Former Sam Shing Temple, via richardwonghk on
Flickr
The British claimed ownership of the Walled City but did little with it over the following
decades. A sovereignty row with Beijing continued for decades. The area remained mostly a
curiosity for British colonials and tourists to visit…
1910s – Richshaw drivers and tourists at the Walled City, via richardwonghk on Flickr
The Protestant church established an old people’s home in the Yamen, as well as a school and
almshouse in other former offices…
Early undated photo showing children playing, richardwonghk on Flickr
By 1933, the Hong Kong authorities announced plans to demolish most of the decaying Walled
City’s buildings, compensating the 436 squatters that lived there with new homes.

Early photo showing the inside of the Walled City, via richardwonghk on Flickr
By 1940 only the Yamen, the school, and one house remained.
The hillside was flattened to make way for Kai Tak airport, via richardwonghk on Flickr
During its World War II occupation of Hong Kong, Japan demolished the City’s wall and used
the stone to extend the nearby Kai Tak Airport.
After Japan’s surrender, China announced its intent to reclaim its rights to the Walled City.
Refugees poured in to take advantage of Chinese protection, and 2,000 squatters occupied the
Walled City by 1947. After a failed attempt to drive them out in 1948, the British adopted a
‘hands-off’ policy in most matters concerning the Walled City…

1960s, via richardwonghk on Flickr

With no government enforcement from the Chinese or the British save for a few police raids, the
Walled City became a haven for crime and drugs. It was only during a 1959 trial for a murder
that occurred within the Walled City that the HK government was ruled to have jurisdiction
there. By this time, however, the Walled City was virtually ruled by the organised crime
syndicates known as Triads. Groups such as the 14Kand Sun Yee On gained a stranglehold on
the Walled City’s countless brothels, gambling parlours, and opium dens…
1963, via richardwonghk on Flickr
―Here, prostitutes installed themselves on one side of the street, while a priest preached and
handed out powdered milk to the poor on the other; social workers gave guidance, while drug
addicts squatted under the stairs getting high; what were children‘s games centres by day
became strip show venues by night. It was a very complex place, difficult to generalise about, a
place that seemed frightening but where most people continued to lead normal lives. A place just
like the rest of Hong Kong.‖ —Leung Ping Kwan, City of Darkness
1970s, via richardwonghk on Flickr
It was not until 1973–74, when a series of more than 3,500 police raids resulted in over 2,500
arrests and over 4,000 pounds (1,800 kg) of seized drugs, that the Triads’ power began to wane.
1973, via richardwonghk on Flickr
Although the Walled City was notorious as a hotbed of criminal activity, most residents were not
involved in any crime and lived peacefully within. Numerous small factories and businesses
thrived and some residents formed groups to organise and improve daily life there.
Early 1970s, via richardwonghk on Flickr
Charities, religious societies, and other welfare groups were gradually introduced to the City.
While medical clinics and schools went unregulated, the Hong Kong government did provide
some services, such as water supply and mail delivery.
With public support, particularly from younger residents, the continued raids gradually eroded
drug use and violent crime.
Early 1970s, via richardwonghk on Flickr
1972, via SCMP.
In 1983, the police commander of the Kowloon City District declared the Walled City’s crime
rate to be under control.
Early 1980s, via richardwonghk on Flickr
Around 33,000 people were estimated to live in the Walled City by 1987. With 1,255,000
inhabitants per square kilometre, it was the densely populated area to ever exist.
1980s, via richardwonghk on Flickr
Electricity was stolen from the mains, postmen assigned numbers to dwellings themselves and
inorganic waste was transferred to rooftops. Only two buildings had elevators and the average
passageway was only four feet wide.
1986, via richardwonghk on Flickr
By 1987 there were 67 functioning wells – only 8 government standpipes existed (with the first
being installed in 1963). One of these was actually within the city while the remaining 7 stood at
the perimeter – these provided potable water.
1990s, via richardwonghk on Flickr
―It was also, arguably, the closest thing to a truly self-regulating, self-sufficient, self-determining
modern city that has ever been built‖ – Leung Ping Kwan, City of Darkness

Despite declining crime, the quality of life in the City was far behind the rest of the territory,
particularly with regards to sanitation. The Sino-British Joint Declaration in 1984 laid the
groundwork for the City’s demolition. Its demolition was finally announced in 1987…

1990s, by Greg Girard and Ian Lambot

The only area in HK comparable to what once stood in Kowloon City is Chungking Mansions in
Tsim Sha Tsui.

1990s, by Greg Girard and Ian Lambot

Click here for shots from within the Walled City.

1990, via SCMP.

1990s, by Greg Girard and Ian Lambot

―What fascinates about the Walled City is that, for all its horrible shortcomings, its builders and
residents succeeded in creating what modern architects, with all their resources of money and
expertise, have failed to: the city as ‗organic megastructure‘, not set rigidly for a lifetime but
continually responsive to the changing requirements of its user, fulfilling every need from water
supply to religion, yet providing also the warmth and intimacy of a single huge household.” –
Leung Ping Kwan, City of Darkness
1965 vs. 2012 aerial view, via richardwonghk on Flickr
Some residents, unsatisfied with the compensation, had to be forcibly removed between late
1991 and early 1992. Shots below from Sing Tao…
The government spent some HK$2.7 billion (US$350 million) in compensation to the estimated
33,000 residents and businesses in a plan devised by a special committee of the Hong Kong
Housing Authority.
Residents handed in their keys through a private security company…
via SCMP.
Demolition commenced on March 23rd, 1993 and concluded in April.

by Greg Girard and Ian Lambot

via SCMP
An unmissable German documentary from 1989 (in 4 parts) – some of the only known footage
from within the city…
Here is a clip from dodgy 1988 Jean-Claude Van Damme movie of the City…
With the City and Kai Tak gone, and without an MTR link, the area rapidly declined.
However, migrants learnt Cantonese and a Thai community sprang up in what is now known as
Kowloon City. Today, the area is reviving with new high-rise flats under construction and an
MTR link expected to be completed by 2018. A new cruise ferry terminal opened last year at the
nearby Kai Tak site.
via Wikimedia
In place of the Walled City is a park which includes eight ‘floral walks’, a chess garden, Zodiac
garden, wedding area and a 3D mock-up of the City…
3D mock-up in the new park, via doobybrain.com
The remains of the Yamen and South Gate have been granted hertiage status and protection…

via ctina-in-asia.blogspot.com

 SCMP ‘Neighbourhood Sounds’ series on Kowloon City.

SCMP Infographic by Adolfo Arranz (click to enlarge)…

via SCMP – Click to enlarge
Click for more Architecture & Infrastructure posts or history posts. Other Kowloon Walled City
posts on the blog…

 Art Inspired by Kowloon Walled City.

 Rare Shots from Inside the Old Kowloon Walled City.
 A Brief Visual History: Kowloon Walled City.
 Kowloon Walled City Recreated in Japan: Pictures.
Click for Art Inspired by Kowloon Walled City or for rare shots of Inside the Walled City. And
click for a Brief Visual History of nearby Kai Tak Airport.

Blog posts charting Hong Kong‘s colourful past…

 1000+ ‘Before and After’ Photos of Old & New Hong Kong.
 Cool Vintage Hong Kong Tourism Posters.
 Execution of Namoa Pirates in Kowloon, 1891.
 Hedda Morrison’s Hong Kong: Photos from 1942, Beautifully Restored.
 HK’s Boom Years: The Best of Fan Ho.
 Hong Kong’s Most Offensive Place Names.
 How Hong Kong Was Made: Iconic Buildings Under Construction.
 Mainland Refugees Fleeing Famine Rejected by HK.
 Margaret Thatcher in Hong Kong.
 More Vintage Photos of Old Hong Kong.
 Newly Unearthed Photos of 1950s Hong Kong.
 Pictures of Hong Kong in 1972.
 Rare Shots from Inside the Old Kowloon Walled City.
 Shing Mun Redoubt, HK’s Secret WWII Tunnels.
 Street Scenes in Dreamy Colour 1954-2004.
 The ‘Great Chinese Takeaway’ – the 1997 Handover.
 The 1958 Hong Kong Cha Cha Championship Winner (Bruce Lee).
 The 1967 Hong Kong Riots.
 The Bombing of Hong Kong by the U.S. 14th Air Force.
 The Day a Cargo Ship Washed up on Cheung Chau Beach.
 The Hakka Walled Village of Tsang Tai Uk, Sha Tin.
 The Iconic ‘Two Girls’ Kwong Sang Hong Cosmetics Brand
 The Luxury British Liner at the Bottom of Victoria Harbour.
 Unseen Royal Geographic Photos.
 When the MTR Was New.