Chanel-style jacket ‘The famous fashion innovator Coco Chanel popularized the fitted tailored jacket for women, She distilled the modern jacket of her day into a timeless classic that became her signature look. The original Chanel jacket was short, with no collar, ‘and typically boxy in shape. One ofthe key features of the tallored jacket isthe three- panel construction, Undersonse Fron BackToday, Karl Lagerfeld designs for the House of Chanel Many of his jackets stil reflect the classic Chanel look—the boxy shape and short length with the three-panel construction. Other elem eflect the look are the flap pockets, the bound edges, and the finishing touch, the signature strand of pears. AAs jackets are intended to be layered over other garments, they need to have a comfortable amount of ease, which requires draping away from the dress form, The sculpting ofthe shape and sensitivity to the contour ofthe lines becomes more challenging and ever mare important. ie thee-panel jacket has aside section that eliminates the sida seam and sits between the princess lines in the font ‘and back. The two-piece sleeve angles slightly forward for the natural hang ofthe ‘arm, and has a closer fit atthe inside of he ‘arm and more room atthe elbow. Balancing he thre panels requires 260° awareness of he shape, 0 hat took fattering irom every angeShoulder pads “To sropae th for for tho apo, fest termine te typeof saucer pads be used. They ar not necessarily needed for hoight, bat to lp suport the shape ‘Woolen wos foro jacks are atten loosely woven because so mh ofthe ‘weight ofthe jacket le fling fom the shoulders, 2 pad els ta support the fai ant tap it rom stchig wie maintaining te specie stage you are ‘ing to dase. Step * Begin by draping without th stuffed arm, itis much easior ta see the balance of the ‘thee panels without the arm inthe way ' Pin shoulder pad frmly in place atthe two lower comers and conte of the shoulder ‘area, Mako sure the pins are stuck all the \way nt the form so they do nat interfere with the drape ofthe muslin, Draping away from the form Tak care otto drape 10 ty. You ae caping aay ro the for to rake a jacket tat ot very ste. The temptation fo the bogining ston is {oalow the shape of he form but no ich tine to break tat abt. Try t0 ‘custom yours to pring and shaping ‘the musin without the sppart ofthe form, but justin space Step? * Sot front panel ty aligning GF of musin with CF of form, Tim and clip neckline unt it fis smoothly, * Pin across bust and into shoulder area lightly leaving aitle ease inthe armhole and taking care not opin too tightly ' Pin at side to prepare for the volume you want, Because ths frst panel extonds further toward the side than a princess lie, you will need a dart to pln the waist shape ' Fold ina vertical dart with fit small intake, "(1S em) atthe waists about standard Step3 * Set backpanel ty aligning CB of muslin. with CB of form, Pin across back shoul, keoping trossgrain horizontal by giving some ease atthe armhole and shoulder area, Drape avery small da into shoud seam area, and also pul in a iti extra ease aiong that seam, It makes a better fll in the ack atthe hem f the shoulders properly draped with the crossgrain close ‘to horizontal and some ease on that seam, This ease and shoulder dart may be imirated later depending on how the fabric reacts to shaping, Many weights of wool canbe steamed and shaped to create room over the shoulder blade