The Marked Deck Puzzle,

Jeffrey Kellogg, 2017

Over the course of the last few years, I have been toying with a reliable suit and value distance
marked deck that could be implemented in a normal looking factory printed design, and also
pass the riffle test.

Some History

In 2003, a type of counterfeit bee’s circulated on eBay and in convenience stores across the
US. These are now referred to as the “2003 Connell Brothers Bees.” These cards were marked
for their values in quite a smart fashion, known as “flashing,” or creating a lighter area on a card.
The following diagram shows the system with exaggerated visibility:

On the printing plates, the white diamonds that created the design were enlarged slightly across
a row to create brighter diagonal white lines. This system can be seen from quite a distance,
which is impressive- and can be seen from close up if the eyes are unfocused to the correct
visual plane. Good vision was not required to see the marks. In fact, poor vision enhances
them.

The idea of separating the 10, and all the court cards into the right facing diagonals was
excellent- as you know if you are seeing any card valued as a 10 right away, for blackjack
gambling “demonstrations.”

The trouble with this system was that the lines that are farther out to the corners (8 & 9,) are
much shorter than the others, and therefore far less visible. Not only that, but the lines are also
too close together, and therefore tough to tell the exact card. There was also no effort to mark
the suits. Both of these flaws made the system worthless for magicians. If you can’t be certain
what the exact card is every time, there is room for improvement.
 Unboxing the Puzzle
In 2011, I was first introduced to the Connell Brothers system by a deck that also utilized it. I
worked with these decks for quite some time, and researched the 2003 Connell Brothers cards
finding them as their inspiration. I quickly realized that some slight changes were made in this
new deck- mainly adding a separate marking system for the suits, as well as splitting 6 values to
one side, and 6 to the other- with the ace unmarked, so the lines could be slightly further apart
from each other, and more easily differentiated.

This new deck was an improvement to the Connell system, although the new suit system was
only visible from up close, and therefore did not add to the distance aspect of the markings.
Also, splitting the values half to each side unfortunately took away the strength of having all
cards valued as 10 in blackjack to the one side for gambling demonstrations. Having the ace be
unmarked was also an issue- because the magician would search too long for a marking that
was not there and give up flow. It was an improvement, but in practice the entire system still did
not differentiate the values enough to be reliable.

This deck did attempt to utilize a “poor registration” effect to allow it to pass the riffle test. It was
very close to meeting that goal.

Finding the Corners and Edges

In the next few years, I spent quite some time researching all types of marking systems- old and
new, in an attempt to find a more concrete system for marking cards for distance. Along the
path, I ran into an old book by Nevil Maskelyne called “Sharps and Flats.”

In Chapter III, there is a section called “The marking of unprinted backs.” Unprinted blank white
backs were once used to help deter card marking. This section contains a drawing showing a
marking system utilizing wax lines on blank cards that can be seen at certain angles of light.
The drawing depicts a system using diagonal lines, as well as horizontal and vertical lines- and
combinations thereof:

Although the ace is unmarked in this system, (which we know is not a good idea,) it is still much
better than the Connell Brothers system. Each pattern created by the lines is clearly different
and instantly unique. If this could be translated to a patterned deck, it would improve
everything.
 Sorting Similar Pieces
In the following months, I made test decks where horizontal and vertical
lines were created by following the white diamond patterns in a zig zagged
fashion, (see image to left.) It worked, but a few issues were realized.

Combining horizontal or vertical lines with diagonals did not work on a

patterned deck. Due to the zig zags, the horizontals and verticals are seen
on a different visibility plane than the diagonal lines. They cannot be
reliably seen together for one value, and were therefore easily confused
with others.

Not all was lost, though. Using two diagonal lines to create an “X”, and a vertical and horizontal
line to create a “cross” was successful- as well as stand alone vertical or horizontal lines.

Putting it All Together

To solve this portion of the puzzle, I just had to use the strengths from these 2 systems.

From the Connell Brothers- three values per side were used- one single line in the center, two
close together, and 2 far apart. Using only 3 values makes it impossible to confuse one for
another.

From Sharps and Flats, the “X”, “Cross”, one single and two vertical lines, as well as one single
horizontal, 2 close together, and 2 far apart, (only 2 horizontal line marks were used in the
sharps and flats system.) That makes all 13 values, each clearly different than the next.

The Missing Piece

This brings us to the last missing piece of the puzzle- marking the suits for distance.

Juicing is a technique where a substance is applied to the back of the card to create a dark spot
in an area that is visible from a distance, and from close up when the eyes are blurred.

I had never before seen anyone use a juicing effect on a factory printed deck, and it seemed like
a great thing to explore, it being another known marking system visible from a distance.

I realized that using lighter lines that can run through these darker spots allows the markings to
overlap but still be seen together due to their contrast.

It worked.

Both techniques allow for a deck that is fully visible for suit and value from a distance, with
clearly different markings for each value, that passes the riffle test. The puzzle was solved.
 Intuitive Memorization: Values

Creating a system that was easy to conceptualize,

memorize, and retain was a puzzle in itself.

The system is simple to memorize when split apart into

sections that separate the directions of the lines. The
diagram to the left shows the directions broken into rows,
and the following section gives details on how to
conceptualize each row.

Start from the top left, like you would start reading a book:

LEFT DIAGONALS- LOW NUMBERS- 2,3,4

A single line is a 2. Two lines close together is a 3, and two
far apart is a 4.

You then move the lines clockwise as the values increase.

VERTICALS- MIDDLE NUMBERS- 5,6

One line is a 5, two is a 6.

Move the lines clockwise again.

RIGHT DIAGONALS- HIGH NUMBERS- 7,8,9

A 7 is a single line, two close together is an 8, and two far apart is a 9.

“X”- 10
A 10 is an “X” like a roman numeral.

“The X has to be a 10. It can’t not be an 10. It’s gotta.“ -Adam Rubin, (he was right.)

HORIZONTALS- COURT CARDS- jack, queen, king

A jack is a single line, a queen is two close together, and a king is two far apart.

“CROSS”- Ace
An ace is a Cross.
 Intuitive Memorization: Suits

The diagram to the left shows the location of the suit

markings. To remember the suits, use the common CHaSeD
order, starting from the top left like you read a book, and
moving clockwise just as before. A club is a dark thumb print
sized spot at the top left, a heart is at the top center, a spade
is at the top right, and a diamond is at the right center. This
is of course mirrored on the other side of the card.

To the left are some exaggerated examples of what the full

marking system will look like when you blur your eyes to the
correct focal plane, (exaggerated.)

Viewing the Marks

I suggest going through a shuffled deck face up, seeing the

identity of the card, thinking what the marking will look like in
your head, then turning the card over to try to spot it. This is
much easier than trying to decipher an unknown value of a
card to train yourself to see the markings. Just go through the entire shuffled deck like this over
and over first and it will help immensely.

Seeing the suits is easier than seeing the values, so when you are looking to decipher the
markings, focus on bringing the values to the correct focal plane, and then once you see the
value, the suit will already be visible around the periphery of the card.

Once you understand the correct focal plane for the values, you are done. Any effect where a
card is selected and needs to be known can now be freed up with the knowledge that you can
see the full value and suit of the card in a blink of an eye, with the smallest opportunity. You
can even turn your head away as a card is selected, blur your eyes to the correct focal plane,
and turn your head for a literal instant to get the peek, then turn away again. Extremely fast
peeks from a distance.
 Viewing angles

The best way to view the marks is by staring square at the card- but If you would like to view
them from a high angle- the best way is from looking at them from the short side of the card. If
you are looking to spot a particular value as you, say, overhand shuffle, look at the deck from
the angle of the line value you are looking for as if you were landing a plane on it. This makes
the lines running in that direction VERY visible right away, as the brightness of the line “stacks
up” on itself. For instance, if you were looking for a 2 as you overhand shuffle, look at the cards
from the bottom right to the top left at a high angle. This will not work for 10s or aces, as they
have lines positioned in two different directions.

Other Thoughts

Partial info about cards can be spouted out very fast for rapid divination routines rather than
translating the full value and suit. Use the following rules:

-if you ever see a diagonal line, it’s a number card (2,3,4,7,8,9,10)

-if you ever see a horizontal line it’s a high card (Jack, Queen, King, Ace.)

-if you ever see a left diagonal it’s a low number or “maybe a 10“ (2,3,4,10)

-if you ever see a right diagonal it’s a high number (7,8,9,10)

-if you ever see a vertical line, it’s a 5,6, or Ace.

You can also just name the color and or suit if all you can see is the juice marks.

Poker Demos- The Slop Shuffle Stack & Overhand Shuffle Stack

Perform a slop shuffle with the spectators participating and try to spot a few clubs and push
them off to the side in their own section. Leave this pile alone for the next steps. Pick up chunks
of 4 cards with a club on top in one hand and place them in the other to reform the deck.
Unwanted chunks of cards without clubs on top can be placed on the bottom of the deck if you
do not immediately see any clubs. More 4 card chunks with clubs on top can be put on the top
of the deck when you spot them until every card is off the table except that section of clubs from
before. Place that pile of clubs on bottom. You now have a very potent top stock full of clubs
every fourth card, with a good pile of clubs on bottom as well. Do not sacrifice any time in
picking up piles. Reform the deck as fast as possible.
If you know you have picked up exactly 4 cards each time with a club on top- and you’ve done it
five times- hand the deck to the spectator to your right and ask them to deal a 4 player, five card
draw game- you’ll get a flush! You can also add 3 cards on top if you would like to deal.

If you are not certain that you’ve got a club every fourth card, but are certain you have at least 5
on bottom, just deal bottoms to yourself, or perform a milk build shuffle to stack it. If you aren’t
certain of anything, deal and withhold the clubs for yourself as you spot them via a second deal.
If you get to the person to your right and still have not seen a club, perform a bottom deal. If you
do not get all five in your hand through these methods you will without a doubt have 4 out of 5,
and just playing the game through, holding back a club as you spot it with a second deal as the
other players exchange their unwanted cards will save you the last one for your exchange. In
the event you have made a mistake and are missing a club, show your hand by placing 1 club
on the table, and performing an elmsley count- with the mistake in the third position from the top
of the face up pile to conceal the mistake.

Taking a fully shuffled deck from a spectator and dealing directly using second deals to withold
a suit for yourself is possible but not 100 percent. Even with a 6 hand game, (the maximum in 5
card draw,) you still run the chance of getting 3 out of 5 clubs. More often than not you will get
all 5 in the initial deal, or 4 with 1 on the draw deal.

For a Texas holdem deal- you can spot any horizontal line to deal yourself a high value hand
consisting of only court cards or aces. As you deal the flop, turn, and river for holdem- you can
spot the burn cards and withhold them with a second deal if they advance your hand. You can
also do the same with a flush for holdem.

The holdem deal is easier as you only need to get 2 cards of interest to yourself, and there are
breaks in the dealing for rounds of betting which give you more time to reposition to be ready for
a bottom deal, as well as peek the burn cards and decide if you need to withhold them with a
second deal to make your hand better.

This same concept is advantageous for a blackjack deal, where you can easily spot low cards,
medium cards, or high cards as you need them while others are asking for another card or to
stay. It’s even possible that you will see the exact value you need for 21.

You can also spot cards during an overhand shuffle, and retain them on bottom. Perform an
overhand shuffle, and when you spot a card of interest, pull that single card off the pile holding a
break underneath it. As your hands come together to continue the shuffle, steal that card on to
the bottom of the other packet, and repeat the process.

There are so many possibilities for gambling demonstrations it’s ridiculous, But these are a
great start.
 Final words

The true use for this deck is not to provide more magic, but to improve your existing magic. To
free up the performer to be a showman, improve conditions, eliminate peek moves or general
staring at marks, and get the magician performing with better connection and confidence.

Thanks

Thanks to Bill Kalush and the Expert Playing Card Company for putting up with over a year and
a half of design, testing, and refinement.

Thanks to Hudson Taylor for toying around with white out pens and bees with me at Tannen’s.

Thanks to Doug Mckenzie who leant me his copy of Steve Forte’s “Casino Game Protection”
which greatly sped along my research.

Thanks to, Ricky Smith, Tony Chang, Noah Levine, Alex Harris, Adam Blumenthal, Ben Pratt,
Allan Hagan, and Adam Rubin for being guinea pigs on test decks.

Special thanks to Noah Levine for following his journey so I could hop along for the ride and find
mine.

And finally, thanks to Mom, Dad, and the rest of my wonderful family.