M

* Baklava *
G A Z I A N T E P, T U R K E Y
Recipe Baklava
Renowned from Greece and Turkey to the countries of the Adapted from Selen Rozanes at Turkish Flavours (www.turkishflavours.com)
Middle East, baklava is the ultimate expression of the delicate craft
YO U ' L L N E E D METHOD
of the region’s skilled pastry chefs.
1 cup water 1. Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F).
1½ cups sugar 2. To make the syrup, pour the water and sugar into a heavy pan.
juice of 1 lemon Bring to a boil while stirring continuously.
What is It? Tasting
One of the most delicate desserts on the planet, Discovering the best of baklava is all in the delicate 180g (6oz) butter, melted 3. Once the sugar is dissolved, reduce the heat and add the lemon
baklava is carefully crafted from gossamer-thin sound it makes when you first bite into it. The 450g (1lb) filo pastry sheets juice. Simmer for around 15 minutes. Once the syrup has thick-
sheets of yufka (filo pastry). Fold in a filling of finely gossamer-light top layers of filo pastry should fold ened, leave the mixture to cool in the pan.
340g (11oz) walnuts and pistachios,
chopped pistachio or walnuts, layer with melted gently when it’s in your mouth, with the subtle finely chopped 4. Brush the melted butter across the bottom and sides of a 30cm
butter and drown the whole shebang in syrup to release of pressure and flavour producing an almost (12in) baking dish.
ground pistachio nuts
create a mid-afternoon snack perfect with a robust inaudible kshhhhh sound. The freshest of pistachios
5. Place a sheet of filo pastry in the bottom of the pan and
Turkish coffee. should combine with carefully layered pastry and
brush carefully with melted butter. Trim the edges of the filo
syrup to perfectly balance crunch and collapse,
pastry if you need to make it fit. Continue until you have used
offering subtle resistance when bitten, but not
half the sheets of filo pastry, making sure that you brush each
Origin threatening the need for dental reconstruction. With
one with butter.
Baklava is thought to be based on ancient recipes more than 180 pastry shops, Gaziantep offers the
from central Asia that were perfected during the opportunity to discover the kshhhhh of the world’s 6. Press the sheets carefully into the corners of the dish, and trim
Ottoman Empire. Early Uzbek and Azerbaijani best baklava on virtually every street. Try it still the edges if they extend outside the top of the dish.
recipes were more rustic than the refined variations warm from the oven – a local breakfast variation 7. Spread the chopped walnuts and pistachios on top of the last
developed in the imperial Ottoman kitchens, where is to dip baklava in milk – or as the perfect dessert buttered sheet. Continue layering the remaining half of the filo
up to 40 separate layers of filo pastry were used. after an evening meal in the elegant dining room pastry sheets, brushing each one with melted butter.
The southeast Anatolian city of Gaziantep is now of the İmam Çağdaş restaurant. Between meals,
8. Brush the top of the final sheet and then cut straight lines right
renowned for the world’s finest pistachio baklava, you’re bound to still find room for a couple of
through all the layers, from the top to the bottom, to form small
with the soil surrounding the city producing fistikli baklava-and-coffee stops throughout the day.
diamond shapes. It’s essential to use a sharp knife to do this.
(pistachios) of unique flavour and aroma. Master
baklava bakers train for up to 20 years and have 9. Bake in the oven for around one hour until the top is golden.
been known to add up to 100 layers of impossibly Increase the temperature for the final few minutes to ensure a
Finding It golden finish.
thin pastry into one dish. Try the Güllüoglu pastry shop in Gaziantep, where
it sells for around six Turkish lira (US$3.50). There 10. After baking, remove the baklava from the oven and slowly
is also a Güllüoglu branch in Istanbul. pour the cooled syrup over the hot pastry. Return to the oven for
two to three minutes so that the syrup is soaked up.
11. Take the baklava out of the oven to cool and then arrange the
diamond-shaped pieces on a serving dish. Top the individual
* VARIATIONS * Entering a Gaziantep pastry shop is an opportunity to sample tasty
pieces of baklava with ground pistachios and serve at room
local variations. Saray sarmasi is a special round baklava, while söbiyet – a culinary cousin
temperature. Note that baklava should never be stored in a
of sherbet – is rolled baklava crammed with pistachio and cream. Other regional Turkish
refrigerator as the pastry will absorb excess moisture and
variations include kus gözü (‘bird’s eye’ baklava) from Antalya, and gelin bohça (‘bridal dress’
become soggy.
baklava) from Kahramanmaras. It’s a city also renowned for Turkey’s finest ice cream, so
good luck choosing between sweet treats.

THE WORLD'S BEST STREET FOOD | 17 7

* By Brett Atkinson *