©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Western
USA
WA

MT
Pacific ND
Northwest
p180
OR ID Rocky SD
Mountains
p241
WY NE

NV UT
CA
California CO
p61
KS
Southwest
p309
OK
AZ NM

TX

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Amy C Balfour,
Sandra Bao, Michael Benanav, Greg Benchwick, Sara Benson,
Alison Bing, Celeste Brash, Lisa Dunford, Carolyn McCarthy,
Christopher Pitts, Brendan Sainsbury
 PLAN
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to
Western USA. . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Western USA Map. . . . . . . . 6
Western USA’s Top 25 . . . . 8
Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 20
If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Month by Month. . . . . . . . 26
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Route 66 &
Scenic Drives . . . . . . . . . . 35
Western USA Outdoors. . 44
Travel with Children. . . . . 54
Regions at a Glance. . . . . 57
RUSSELL BURDEN /GETTY IMAGES ©
NATIVE AMERICANS P425
ERIC LO /GETTY IMAGES ©
LAS VEGAS P314
ON THE ROAD
CALIFORNIA. . . . . . . . 61
Los Angeles. . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Southern
California Coast. . . . . . . . 90
Disneyland & Anaheim. . . 90
Orange County Beaches. . . 92
San Diego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Around San Diego . . . . . . . 103
Palm Springs
& the Deserts . . . . . . . . . 104
Palm Springs. . . . . . . . . . . 104
Joshua Tree
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Anza-Borrego
Desert State Park. . . . . . . . 108
Mojave National
Preserve. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Death Valley
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Central Coast . . . . . . . . . 111
Santa Barbara. . . . . . . . . . . 111
Santa Barbara to
San Luis Obispo. . . . . . . . . 114
San Luis Obispo. . . . . . . . . 115
Morro Bay to
Hearst Castle . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Big Sur. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
Carmel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Monterey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
Santa Cruz. . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Santa Cruz to
San Francisco. . . . . . . . . . . 123
San Francisco
& the Bay Area. . . . . . . . 124
San Francisco. . . . . . . . . . . 124
Marin County . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Berkeley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
Northern California. . . . 154
Wine Country . . . . . . . . . . . 154
North Coast. . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
Sacramento. . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
Gold Country. . . . . . . . . . . . 165
Northern Mountains . . . . . 167
Sierra Nevada. . . . . . . . . 169
Yosemite National Park. . . 169
Sequoia & Kings Canyon
National Parks . . . . . . . . . . 173
Eastern Sierra. . . . . . . . . . . 175
Lake Tahoe . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
PACIFIC
NORTHWEST. . . . . . . 180
Washington. . . . . . . . . . . 186
Seattle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
Around Seattle. . . . . . . . . 200
Olympic Peninsula. . . . . . . 201
Northwest Washington. . 204
San Juan Islands . . . . . . . 205
North Cascades. . . . . . . . 207
Northeastern
Washington. . . . . . . . . . . . 209
South Cascades. . . . . . . . . 210
Central & Southeastern
Washington. . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
Oregon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
Portland. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
Willamette Valley. . . . . . . 225
Columbia River Gorge. . . 228
Oregon Cascades. . . . . . . 228
Southern Oregon. . . . . . . 232
Eastern Oregon. . . . . . . . . 235
Oregon Coast . . . . . . . . . . 237
ROCKY
MOUNTAINS. . . . . . . 241
Colorado . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
Denver. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
Boulder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
Northern Mountains . . . . 259
Central Colorado . . . . . . . 263
Southern Colorado . . . . . . 273
Wyoming . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281
Cheyenne. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
Laramie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
 Contents
UNDERSTAND

Lander . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 Tucson. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358 Western USA

Cody. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
Yellowstone
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 285
Grand Teton
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 290
Jackson. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292
Montana. . . . . . . . . . . . . 294
Bozeman. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294
Gallatin &
Paradise Valleys. . . . . . . . 296
Absaroka Beartooth
Wilderness. . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
Billings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
Helena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
Missoula. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298
Flathead Lake. . . . . . . . . . 300
Bob Marshall
Wilderness Complex . . . . 300
Whitefish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
Glacier National Park . . . . 301
Idaho. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
Boise. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
Ketchum & Sun Valley. . . 305
Stanley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
Idaho Panhandle . . . . . . . 308
Around Tucson. . . . . . . . . 362 Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410
Southeastern Arizona. . . 363 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412
Utah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364 The People. . . . . . . . . . . . 422
Salt Lake City. . . . . . . . . . 365
Native Americans. . . . . . 425
Park City & the
Wasatch Mountains. . . . . 370 Western USA Cuisine. . . 429
Northeastern Utah. . . . . . . 374 Arts & Architecture. . . . 435
Moab &
Southeastern Utah. . . . . . 375 Landscapes & Wildlife. . 441
Zion &
Southwestern Utah . . . . . 379
New Mexico. . . . . . . . . . 384
Albuquerque. . . . . . . . . . . 384
Along I-40. . . . . . . . . . . . . 389
Santa Fe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 390
SURVIVAL
Around Santa Fe. . . . . . . . 396
GUIDE
Taos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 398
Northwestern
New Mexico. . . . . . . . . . . . 401 Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . . 450
Northeastern Transportation . . . . . . . . 461
New Mexico. . . . . . . . . . . . 402
Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473
Southwestern
New Mexico. . . . . . . . . . . . 402 Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 486
Southeastern
New Mexico. . . . . . . . . . . . 405

SOUTHWEST. . . . . . 309
Nevada. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
Las Vegas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314
Around Las Vegas . . . . . . 327
Western Nevada. . . . . . . . 328
Nevada Great Basin. . . . . . 331 SPECIAL FEATURES
Arizona. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333
Route 66 &
Phoenix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334
Alcatraz
View of Golden Gate Bridge

Scenic Drives. . . . . . . . . . 35
JOHN A VLAHIDES ©

FRANK VAN DEN BERGH / GETTY IMAGES ©

JOHN A VLAHIDES ©

The Golden Gate Bridge stretches wide on the

horizon. Best views are from atop the island at
Eagle Plaza, near the cellhouse entrance, and at
Book a ferry from Pier 33 and ride 1.5 miles water level along the Agave Trail (September to
across the bay to explore America’s most January only).
notorious former prison. The trip itself
is worth the money, providing stunning
views of the city skyline. Once you’ve

Flagstaff. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343
landed at the Ferry Dock & Pier , you
begin the 580-yard walk to the top of the
island and prison; if you’re out of shape, Historic Signs & Graffiti Main Cellhouse
During their 1969–71 occupation, Native Americans graffitied During the mid-20th century,

Western USA
there’s a twice-hourly tram. the water tower: ʻHome of the Free Indian Land.ʼ Above the the maximum-security prison
As you climb toward the Guardhouse , cellhouse door, examine the eagle-and-ag crest to see how the housed the dayʼs most notori-
notice the island’s steep slope; before it red-and-white stripes were changed to spell ʻFree.ʼ ous troublemakers, including Power House
Al Capone and Robert Stroud,
was a prison, Alcatraz was a fort. In the the ʻBirdman of Alcatrazʼ
1850s, the military quarried the rocky (who actually conducted
shores into near-vertical cliffs. Ships could his ornithology studies at

Central Arizona. . . . . . . . . 345

Recreation Water Tower
Leavenworth). Yard

Outdoors. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
then only dock at a single port, separated
from the main buildings by a sally port (a
drawbridge and moat in what became the Warden's House
Fires destroyed the wardenʼs
guardhouse). Inside, peer through oor house and other structures
grates to see Alcatraz’ original prison. during the Indian Occu- Frank Morris
pation. The government Officers' Club Cell
Volunteers tend the brilliant blamed the Native Ameri- Peer into cell 138
Officerʼs Row Gardens – an orderly cans; the Native Americans on B-Block to see a
counterpoint to the overgrown rose blamed agents provocateurs re-creation of the

Grand Canyon
acting on behalf of the Nixon dummy's head that
bushes surrounding the burned-out shell Administration to under- Frank Morris left in his
of the Wardenʼs House . At the top mine public sympathy. bed as a decoy to aid
of the hill, by the front door of the Main his notorious – and

3D Alcatraz
successful – 1962
Cellhouse , beauty shots unfurl all Lighthouse escape from Alcatraz.
around, including a view of the Golden
Gate Bridge . Above the main door of

National Park . . . . . . . . . . 348

JOHN A VLAHIDES ©

the administration building, notice the Guard Tower

historic signs & graffiti , before you
step inside the dank, cold prison to nd

Illustration. . . . . . . . . . . 136
Parade
the Frank Morris cell , former home to Grounds
Alcatraz’ most notorious jail-breaker.

TOP TIPS

Around the
 Book at least two weeks prior for
self-guided daytime visits, longer for Guardhouse
ranger-led night tours. For info on Alcatrazʼ oldest building dates to 1857 and
retains remnants of the original drawbridge and
garden tours, see www.alcatraz moat. During the Civil War the basement was
gardens.org. transformed into a military dungeon – the genesis

Geology of the Grand

of Alcatraz as prison.
 Be prepared to hike; a steep path

Grand Canyon. . . . . . . . . . 354

ascends from the ferry landing to the
cell block. Most people spend two to
DAVID CLAPP / GETTY IMAGES ©

JOHN A VLAHIDES ©

three hours on the island. You need

only reserve for the outbound ferry; Ferry Dock
& Pier
take any ferry back. A giant wall map helps Officer's Row Gardens

Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 445
 Thereʼs no food (just water) but you get your bearings. In the 19th century soldiers
you can bring your own; picnicking is Inside nearby Bldg 64, imported topsoil to beautify the
short lms and exhib- island with gardens. Well-trusted
allowed at the ferry dock only. Dress its provide historical prisoners later gardened – Elliott

Northeastern Arizona . . . 355

in layers as weather changes fast perspective on the Michener said it kept him sane.
and it’s usually windy. prison and details Historians, ornithologists and
about the Indian archaeologists choose todayʼs
Occupation. plants.

Western Arizona. . . . . . . . 358

 0 500 km
Western USA 0 300 miles

Seattle
Espresso, microbrews and
ELEVATION
the Space Needle (p186) 16,000ft
San Juan Islands Glacier National Park CANADA 12,000ft
Paddle into the past (p205) Ice-carved valleys
9000ft
plus grizzlies (p301)
5000ft
2000ft
Vancouver Calgary
1000ft
Yellowstone National Park
Gray wolves and 500ft
VICTORIA Old Faithful (p285) Sea Level

Burlington -500ft
REGINA
Columbia River Gorge Glacier
Greenery, waterfalls and Seattle Washington Porthill
Roosville National Park
windsurfers (p228)
Orondo
Whitefish
OLYMPIA Ellensburg Spokane Havre
Shelby
Longview Vantage Malta
PACIFIC Cannon Mullan
Beach River
Hood s sou ri
OCEAN Mi North
Portland River Wolf
Otis Missoula Point Dakota
Lewiston
HELENA Montana

nge
Biggs Lake
Newport SALEM Pendleton Powell

Ra
Lewistown Glendive Sakakawea

e
Oregon Butte
Miles City

cad
Winchester Bay Sisters Bozeman
North BISMARCK
Big Timber

Cas
Bend Canyon New Fork
City Meadows
LaPine Dillon Livingston
Idaho Ashland
Gold Beach
Challis Yellowstone South
Payette
Hines National Park Dakota
West Yellowstone Ranchester
Ashland BOISE Cody Buffalo
Crescent City Greybull Sundance
C

Gillette Rapid
Lakeview Silver Ri
Burns City
on

City
ve

Bliss Worland PIERRE

t

Junction Shoshone
e

Trinidad Idaho
k Newcastle
Rock

in

a Falls Shoshoni
y

Alturas Twin Falls

Sn
en

Mile Creek Junction

ta
l

Montpelier Casper Douglas Lusk

Leggett Jackpot
 Susanville Winnemucca Tremonton
Wells Diamondville
Wyoming Rocky Mountain
Great Salt
Nevada Lake Medicine Bow National Park
City Reno West Wendover Evanston Elk and bighorn sheep (p259)
Williams

Divi
CARSON Dutch John Laramie
Bodega Bay SALT LAKE CHEYENNE Julesburg
CITY

de
CITY

Mou
Vernal Craig Rocky Mountain
SACRAMENTO Eureka
Duchesne National Park
San Francisco Oakland Ely Nebraska

ntai
Luning Price Boulder
Nevada Baker Scipio Utah Arches Silverthorne

ns
San Jose Yosemite Coaldale National DENVER Wray
Salina
Village Park
Mammoth Tonopah Green River Grand Junction Limon
Monterey Lakes Beaver r Burlington
Modena Moab ve
Big Sur Fresno Ash Springs RiPoncha Colorado
Cedar d o Colorado
Escalante ra Springs Springs Kansas
Beatty Zion City Ouray
o lo
National Monticello C Lamar
Tulare Lone Pine Kanab Silverton Colorado
Mesquite Park Monument Valley City
Durango La Junta
San Luis Obispo California Death Grand Canyon Navajo Tribal Park Parosa Springs
Valley Las Vegas National Park Page
Junction Boulder Arches National Park
Kayenta
San Francisco Mojave City Grand Canyon Shiprock Raton Hike to Delicate Arch (p377)
Village
Alcatraz, eateries and Baker Taos
Barstow Kingman Seligman Second
Golden Gate Bridge (p124) Mesa Clayton
Gallup SANTA FE Texas
Los Angeles
Needles New
PACIFIC Anaheim Lake Havasu Jerome Flagstaff Montezuma
Long Beach
Mexico
City Holbrook Albuquerque
OCEAN Palm Springs
Laguna Beach Arizona Santa
Wickenburg Show Low Rosa Amarillo
Los Angeles San Vaughn
Hit the beach then Diego Springerville
Texico
Hollywood (p66) Martinez Lake PHOENIX San Antonio
Yuma Gila Bend Santa Fe
Tijuana Glenwood Hondo
Mexicali San Casa Grande
Art is all around you (p390)
Luis Roswell
Disneyland Duncan
M Tucson
Mickey Mouse says, E Lukeville Lordsburg Hatch Hobbs
'Come in!' (p90) X
IC
O Deming Carlsbad
Tombstone
Nogales Ciudad El Paso
Las Vegas Juárez Monument Valley
Megaresorts and gambling Grand Canyon Tombstone Rugged buttes and
draw crowds (p314) golden spires (p357)
National Park Daily shoot-out at the
A geologic wonder (p348) OK Corral (p363)
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
30

Itineraries
Arches
National Park
÷
#
UTAH É

NEVADA [
Ù
12 # Moab
•

É
É
Canyonlands

É
É ÷
National Park #

Ó
V
U
15

ley t
Valumen
É

n
Mo
Las •
#
Vegas Grand Canyon
É

National Park
÷
#
É

NEW
ARIZONA MEXICO
CALIFORNIA

2 KS Best of the Southwest

WEE

This tour spotlights the most iconic sites in the Southwest, looping past the region’s most
famous city, its biggest canyon and its most breathtaking red-rock scenery. Start in Las
Vegas and spend a few days traveling the world on the Strip. When you’ve soaked up
enough decadence, head east to canyon country – Grand Canyon country, that is. You’ll
want a couple of days to explore America’s most famous park. For a once-in-a-lifetime ex-
perience, descend into the South Rim chasm on the back of a mule and spend the night
at Phantom Ranch on the canyon floor.
From the Grand Canyon head northeast to Monument Valley, with scenery straight
out of a Hollywood Western, to the national parks in Utah’s southeast corner – they’re
some of the most visually stunning in the country. Hike the shape-shifting slot canyons
of Canyonlands National Park, watch the sunset in Arches National Park or moun-
tain bike slickrock outside Moab. Drive west on one of the most spectacular stretches of
pavement, Highway 12, until it hooks up with I-15 and takes you back to Las Vegas.
 31

CANADA
Seattle •
# WASHINGTON
÷ Mt
# Rainier
National Park
Portland •#•# Columbia River Gorge
RMt Hood MONTANA

É
Sisters R

PL AN YOUR TRIP I t i n e r a r i e s
# Bend
•
Crater
Redwood Lake • # OREGON
National & #÷ •
# IDAHO
Ashland
State Parks • # Arcata
PACIFIC Lost •# Eureka WYOMING
Coast
OCEAN Mendocino • #
É Napa &
# Sonoma
• NEVADA
San Francisco • # Valleys
UTAH
# Santa Cruz
• COLORADO
Monterey •
#
# Big Sur
•
Hearst Castle • #
# San Luis Obispo
•
# ÉCALIFORNIA
Santa Barbara •
Channel # Los Angeles
•
# Laguna Beach
•
Islands ARIZONA NEW
San Diego •
# MEXICO

MEXICO

3 KS Winding Down the West Coast

WEE

Beach bums and nature lovers – this trip’s for you. Kick off with fresh-roasted coffee in
java-loving Seattle and check out the city’s sprawling food markets, microbreweries and
waterfront. Heading south, visit Mt Rainier National Park, with superb hiking and
relaxing inns nestled beneath the snow-covered peak. Continue on to the cutting-edge
city of Portland, known for its sprawling parks, eco-minded residents and progressive
urbanism – plus food carts, coffeehouse culture and great nightlife. Embrace nature’s
bounty by driving east along the Columbia River Gorge, then turn south and make for
Mt Hood for winter skiing or summer hiking. Further adventures await at the Sisters,
a trio of 10,000ft peaks, and the striking blue waters of Crater Lake. Catch a Shake-
spearian play in sunny Ashland, then trade the mountains for the foggy coast. Enter
California via Hwy 199 and stroll through the magnificent old-growth forests in Red-
wood National and State Parks.
Hug the coast as it meanders south through funky Arcata and seaside Eureka, lose
yourself on the Lost Coast, and catch Hwy 1 through quaint Mendocino, where the
scenic headlands and rugged shoreline make for a requisite wander.
For wine tasting with a photogenic backdrop, travel inland to the rolling vineyards of
Napa and Sonoma Valleys, then continue south to romantically hilly, ever free-spirited
San Francisco.
Return to scenic Hwy 1 through surf-loving Santa Cruz, stately bayfront Monterey
and beatnik-flavored Big Sur. In no time, you’ll reach the surreal Hearst Castle and
laid-back, collegiate San Luis Obispo.
Roll into Mediterranean-esque Santa Barbara, and hop aboard a ferry in Ventura
to the wildlife-rich Channel Islands. The pull from Los Angeles is strong. Go ahead –
indulge your fantasies of Hollywood then cruise through LA’s palm-lined neighborhoods.
After racking up a few sins in the City of Angels, move south to wander the bluffs of La-
guna Beach, then cruise into picture-perfect San Diego.
 PILLARS OF CREATION PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©

Above: Big Sur (p117),

National Park (p210),

Left: Mt Rainier

Washington
California
IMAGE SOURCE / GETTY IMAGES ©
32 PL AN YOUR TRIP I t i n e r a r i e s
 33

CANADA

Glacier
PA C I F I C ÷
National #
WASHINGTON Park
OCEAN # Bob
÷ Marshall
Wilderness Complex
# Missoula
• MONTANA

PL AN YOUR TRIP I t i n e r a r i e s
É
# Bozeman
•

OREGON
IDAHO Yellowstone
# National Park
÷
÷ Grand
# Teton
National Park
Jackson Hole •
# É
•
#
Lander WYOMING

É
Rocky Mountain
NEVADA UTAH ÷ National Park
#
# Boulder
•
Black Canyon Vail •
#
CALIFORNIA of the Gunnison #÷
National Park COLORADO
# Ouray
•
Telluride •
#
# Silverton
•
# Durango
•
ARIZONA
NEW MEXICO

3 KS Rocky Mountain High

WEE

Pack your bathing suit, mountain bike and hiking boots for this high-altitude cruise atop
the Continental Divide; from here, rivers flow toward the west on one side and toward
the east on the other.
Spend your first two days enjoying microbrews and single-track mountain-biking
trails in Durango, the quintessential mountain town. From here, take the Million Dollar
Hwy (Hwy 550) north through the San Juan Mountain range, sightseeing in Silverton
and dipping into hot springs in Ouray. Take a side trip to Telluride for a festival –
there’s one almost every weekend in summer. From Montrose, drive east on Hwy 50,
stopping at the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park to ogle the inky depths
of the gorge before continuing to Hwy 24 north. Finish your first week in style with an
overnight stay in ritzy Vail.
Enjoy kayaking, rock climbing and people-watching in high-energy Boulder then
twist up to Rocky Mountain National Park to hike and horseback ride. While here,
drive the thrilling Trail Ridge Rd through alpine vistas. Continue north on I-25. In Wyo-
ming, take I-80 west to Hwy 287; follow this highway to Lander for rock climbing.
Continue north to Jackson Hole, another fun gateway town. Anchored by a central
park surrounded by chic stores and cowboy bars, it’s a good place to relax, catch a rodeo
or spend the night before rafting the Snake River. From here, it’s an easy glide north into
Grand Teton National Park, a scenic spot for a lazy lake day and a mountain stroll.
Next up is mighty Yellowstone National Park, where geysers, bison and hiking are
highlights.
Start your last week with a drive on the gorgeous Beartooth Hwy, following it into
Montana then hooking onto I-90 west to Bozeman and Missoula; both are good places
to stock up before the final push. Serious nature awaits in the Bob Marshall Wilder-
ness Complex, while Glacier National Park is a place to visit now – there are still
some 25 glaciers hanging tight, but they may not be there for long. Scan for wildlife on a
hike, then end with a drive on the stunning Going-to-the-Sun Road.
34

CANADA
Seattle •
# É Glacier
÷ National Park
#
WASHINGTON

Portland • # Columbia
# • Montana
River Gorge

É
PL AN YOUR TRIP I t i n e r a r i e s

Bend •
#

Redwood
É OREGON IDAHO # Yellowstone
÷ National Park
National & ÷
#
State Parks ÷ Grand Teton
#
National Park
CALIFORNIA
PA C I F I C NEVADA WYOMING
É É
OCEAN
Yosemite
National Park UTAH Boulder •
San Francisco •
# ÷
# #
Sequoia & # Denver
•
Kings Canyon
É
Mesa Verde É
COLORADO
Big Sur •
# ÷ National Parks
# National Park
Hearst Castle •
#
÷
# Las Vegas ÷
#
•
#
Death Valley ÷ Grand Canyon
#
# National Park # Taos
•
Santa Barbara • National Park
Disneyland # Santa Fe
É
•
# • •
# •
Los Angeles # Meteor •
#
# Orange Albuquerque
É
•
County Crater
San Diego •
#
ARIZONA NEW MEXICO
MEXICO

4KS Western US Grand Tour

WEE

This lasso loop takes in the highlights of the west as it rolls north along the California
coast, cruises past the lush landscapes of the Pacific Northwest, the alpine villages of the
Rockies and the glowing red-rock beauty of the Southwest, with a final swing back into
California for a hit-parade tour of the state’s national parks.
From sunny San Diego, follow Hwy 1 north through the surf-loving coastal villages of
Orange County, detouring to Disneyland before driving into shiny Los Angeles. Con-
tinue up the coast on scenic Hwy 1, stopping to shop and sample wine in glossy Santa
Barbara. Gawk at the gawdy Hearst Castle then continue north through woodsy Big
Sur. Dine and shop then wander through Alcatraz in bohemian San Francisco. Return
to Hwy 1 for the quirky towns dotting the northern California coast.
Check out the big trees in Redwood National and State Parks and continue into
Oregon, taking time for outdoor fun in Bend. Soak in the greenery traveling west
along the Columbia River Gorge, then spend a few days savoring brews and views in
Portland. Zip up the Space Needle in Seattle and drive east into wide-open Montana,
heading for the outdoor wonders of Glacier National Park. Continue south into Yel-
lowstone National Park where Old Faithful still blasts regularly beside its namesake
lodge. Swoosh below majestic peaks in Grand Teton National Park before swinging
southeast through Wyoming’s vast cowboy plains.
In Colorado, breathe deep in outdoorsy Boulder then embrace the charms of city life
in bustling Denver. The mining towns of the San Juan Mountains are next, followed by
Mesa Verde National Park. Just south in New Mexico, artist meccas Taos and Santa
Fe are fab stops for one-of-a-kind gifts. Slurp green chile stew in Albuquerque and
follow Route 66 west into Arizona, stopping at Meteor Crater before detouring north
for Grand Canyon National Park. Continue west to Las Vegas, then drive into central
California for Death Valley National Park and Sequoia and Kings Canyon Nation-
al Parks, concluding with Yosemite National Park. Complete the loop with a glass of
California wine in San Francisco.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Sara Benson
California After graduating from college in Chicago, Sara jumped on a plane
to San Francisco with just one suitcase and $100 in her pocket. She has
bounced around California ever since, in between stints living in Asia and
Hawaii and working as a national-park ranger. The author of 55 travel and
nonfiction books, Sara summited Sierra Nevada peaks, uncovered the Lost
Coast and survived Death Valley while researching this guide. Follow her
adventures online at www.indietraveler.blogspot.com and @indie_traveler on Twitter.

Alison Bing
California Over 15 years in San Francisco, Alison has done everything
you’re supposed to do in the city and many things you’re not, including
falling in love on the Haight St bus and quitting a Silicon Valley day job to
write 43 Lonely Planet guidebooks and commentary for magazines, mobile
guides and other media. Join further adventures as they unfold on Twitter
@AlisonBing.

Celeste Brash
Pacific Northwest Locals have a hard time believing it, but the beauty of the
Pacific Northwest is what coaxed Celeste back to the US after 15 years in
Tahiti. She was thrilled to explore and imbibe the treasures of her new back-
yard, hike snowy peaks, look for orcas, and get in touch with her cowboy
and Indian roots for this book. Find out more about Celeste and her award-
winning writing at www.celestebrash.com.

Lisa Dunford
Southwest As one Brigham Young’s (possibly thousands of) great-great-
granddaughters, Lisa was first drawn to Utah by ancestry. But it’s the
incredible red rocks that have kept her coming back for 10 years. She feels
at home hiking through pinkish sand around Zion or Arches until her shoes
are permanently stained, rounding a bend and being accosted by purple-,
crimson- and rose-colored cliffs. Lisa co-authored Lonely Planet’s Zion &
Bryce Canyon National Parks.

Carolyn McCarthy
Rocky Mountains Carolyn fell for the Rockies as an undergraduate at
Colorado College, where she spent her first break camping in a blizzard in
the Sangre de Christo Range. For this title she sampled craft beers, tracked
wolves and heard even more Old West ghost stories. Carolyn has contrib-
uted to over 20 Lonely Planet titles, specializing in the American west and
Latin America, and has written for National Geographic, Outside, Lonely
Planet Traveller and other publications.

Christopher Pitts
Rocky Mountains Chris first drove west on a family road trip across the
US and instantly fell in love with Colorado’s star-studded nights. After
four years at Colorado College, he decided to move up to Boulder for grad
school – but only after mastering Chinese. Fifteen years, several conti-
nents and two kids later, he finally made it to the end of what is normally a
90-minute drive. Chris currently divides his time between writing, dad-dom
and exploring Colorado’s wilder corners. Visit him online at www.christopherpitts.net.

Brendan Sainsbury
Pacific Northwest An expat Brit from Hampshire, England, now living near
Vancouver, Canada, Brendan is a Nirvana-loving, craft-beer-appreciating,
outdoors-embracing, art-admiring, bus-utilizing coffee addict who had
no problem finding like-minded souls in Seattle. He’s been writing Lonely
Planet guides for the last nine years and collecting notes on Seattle since
2009. He is the author of Lonely Planet’s current guide to Seattle, and has
contributed to numerous US titles.
 OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and
Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook
should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS
Amy C Balfour
Coordinating Author, Southwest Amy has hiked, biked, skied and gambled her
way across the Southwest. In Arizona she enjoyed a return trip to Phantom
Ranch, hiking down the South Kaibab Trail from the South Rim and back up
on the Bright Angel. Amy has authored or co-authored more than 15 books for
Lonely Planet and has written for Backpacker, Every Day with Rachael Ray,
Redbook, Southern Living and Women’s Health.

Sandra Bao
Pacific Northwest Sandra has lived in Buenos Aires, New York and California,
but Oregon has become her final stop. Researching the Beaver state has been a
highlight of Sandra’s 14-year-long authoring career with Lonely Planet, which has
covered four continents and dozens of guidebooks. She’s come to appreciate
the wondrous beauty of her home state, how much it has to offer both travelers
and locals and how friendly people can be in tiny towns in the middle of nowhere.

Michael Benanav
Southwest Michael came to New Mexico in 1992, fell under its spell, and moved
to a village in the Sangre de Cristo foothills where he still lives. Since then, he’s
spent years exploring the state’s mountains, deserts and rivers as a wilderness
instructor. Aside from his work for Lonely Planet, he’s authored two nonfiction
books and writes and photographs for magazines and newspapers. Check out
his work at www.michaelbenanav.com.

Greg Benchwick
Rocky Mountains A Colorado native, Greg’s been all over the Centennial State.
He has taught skiing in Vail, walked through fire-pits in campsites across the
state and attended journalism school in Boulder. He calls Denver’s Highlands
home.

OVER MORE
PAGE WRITERS
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-
2nd edition – Apr 2014 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
ISBN 978 1 74220 742 1 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-
© Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 2014 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in China
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,
mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the
written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent
and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such
as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,
access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair
to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other
words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass
email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions
on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with
our content.’