Exploring the 10th century mud monastery of Tabo

To find the true essence of the Himalaya one must travel deep
inside the mountains, and explore the remote areas. One such
place is the Spiti valley that with its cold desert-like terrain and
ethereal views offers some unforgettable experiences. The ride
to Spiti however is a pretty rough one, with roads that are
considered to be among the most dangerous ones in the world.
There are two ways to enter this beautiful valley: one through
Manali via the Rohtang la and Kunzum la, and the other through
Kinnaur via the Mallang la. Roads on both sides are tough,
sometimes almost non-existent; and while the scenery is
mesmerizing, travellers must be prepared for a rough roller-
coaster ride.

Spiti, the word when literally translated, means ‘the middle

land,’ or the land that lies between India and Tibet. The place is
also referred to as the land of lamas. The inhabitants here are
predominantly followers of the Vajrayana form of
Buddhism, and practice the Tibetan culture. Many colourful
monasteries or gompas, some of which historically date back to
the ancient and early medieval times, dot the barren hill sides.
Among these, the most unique and perhaps the most beautiful
one is the Tabo mud monastery.

Located in the picturesque village of Tabo that stands at a height

of 10,760 feet, the Tabo mud monastery has a fort like
appearance with its thick walls and buttresses. Built of pressed
clay and rubble masonry, the monastery complex comprises of a
group of beautiful mud-brick structures that have defied many
centuries of destruction inflicted by both man and nature.
Founded in 996 CE by Rinchen Zangpo~ the Great Translator,
this Buddhist temple complex is the oldest continuously
functional gompa in India. The Tabo monastery as of now has
nine temples, four stupas, and few cave shrines. A little ahead,
in the hill face directly above the monastery, are seen some
meditation caves carved into the rock face which are still used
by the monks.

The beauty of this high-walled gompa complex lies in how

perfectly it blends with the surrounding mud and wooden houses
that are seen typically in Spiti villages. The plain mud-built
external walls of this medieval gompa also hide many secrets
that lie inside its little temples in the form of exquisite scriptures
and wall paintings, safely preserved in the darkness for many
centuries. The beautiful frescoes and murals that are seen on the
walls inside depict various jataka stories. Interestingly the Tabo
monastery paintings show two distinct phases: the first phase of
996 CE shows clear local and Central Asian influences; while
the second phase of 11th c. CE shows a clear Kashmiri and
Eastern Indian (Pala dynasty) influence. Besides the paintings,
the Tabo gompa holds many old manuscripts, thankas, and
statues. Tabo monastery holds great significance in Indian
history because of its central role in introducing of what we now
know as the Indo-Tibetan form of Buddhism to Tibet in the 10th-
11th c. CE.

Beside the old monastery complex there is a new monastery and

an assembly hall, which were all rebuilt in 1983, after
the devastating earthquake of 1975. The monastery is currently
being renovated by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI)
and is a protected monument of national historic importance.

Travel tips: Spiti valley remains open from end of May – June
to mid September from Manali side, while the Kinnaur route
remains open for a longer period. However for tourists,
travelling is advisable from end of June to August, when the
weather is perfect and not so cold. Carrying woollens is
compulsory, and so is drinking water at regular intervals to keep
the body hydrated. While the monastery walls have beautiful
frescoes, one must keep in mind that photography is not allowed
inside. Spiti valley often faces acute water shortage, so while
travelling it is essential to remember to minimise the use of
water.