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THESSALONIKI

THESSALONIKI
Christina Karkana, 7,5 years old.
The artwork on the cover is courtesy
of the Museum of Greek Children’s Art.

Through children’s eyes and creativity, that enriches the collections


of the Museum of Greek Children’s Art, Greek history, tradition, everyday life
and culture is depicted in the most disarming and eloquent manner.
Discover the magic world of children’s art in one of the few such Museums world-wide.

Museum of Greek Children’s Art. www.childrensartmuseum.gr


CONTENTS

Thessaloniki 4

The history of Thessaloniki 6

1st walk:
UNESCO Byzantine Monuments 8

2nd walk:
Historic Centre (1) - Traditional commercial centre 15

3rd walk:
Historic Centre (2) - Museum area 24

4th walk:
Historic Centre (3) 34

5th walk:
Ano Poli (Old Town) 42

6th walk:
Nea Paralia – Vasilissis Olgas Avenue 50
5
7th walk:
West of the Centre-Stavroupoli 58

Suburbs and city outskirts 63

Museums 70

Day Excursions 82

Buys in Thessaloniki 96

Nightlife 97

Gastronomy and wines 99

Touring Thessaloniki with children 100

Information 102

Maps 112
T H E S S A LO N I K I
DION – VERGINA – ANCIENT PELLA
PETRALONA CAVE – LAKES AREA

Ever since the 4th c. BC when it was founded,


Thessaloniki has kept its urban character and has
remained a civic centre and the hub of that region.
The city’s centuries-old multicultural history has been
associated with great empires, as it has known the
Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman Rule. The town was also
greatly influenced by many ethnic and religious groups
(Jews, Latins, Armenians and others) as well as Greeks
from Constantinople, Pontus [modern-day northeastern
Turkey] and Asia Minor [a.k.a. Anatolia]. The numerous
monuments, dating to many historical periods, coexist in
a singular and charming way and manifest Thessaloniki’s
historical multicultural and cosmopolitan nature.

1.
The White Tower
area is one of the
busiest parts of
the city, where
the old seafront
(Nikis Ave.) meets
the new (eastern)
waterfront area
of Thessaloniki.
Nowadays, the historic capital -by right- of Macedonia,
the land of Alexander the Great, has evolved into a modern
and particularly charming metropolis. A multitide of
monuments and cultural assets and the town’s traditional
ways exist in harmony with the modern aspects and the
high standard infrastructure, the carefree mood, the spirit
of hospitality, the vitality of the locals – particularly the
young – setting the pace of town life, the diversity of
artistic events, the long list of choices for entertainment,
the exceptional culinary tradition, and the fresh feel in
the atmosphere, coming from the seafront, as well as the
coolness of the northwest wind called Vardaris.
Thessaloniki’s location is at the centre of a greater area
with incomparable historical monuments and natural assets
as it offers the opportunity for a visit to archaeological
sites known the world over (Ancient Pella, Vergina, Dion,
Petralona Cave), to areas of exquisite nature (river deltas,
lakes, Mt Olympus), to the monastic state of Agion Oros
[the Holy Mountain] as well as to Halkidiki, a famous tourist
destination. And there is always an opportunity to practice
sports (swimming, skiing, playing golf etc) or to indulge in
wellness tourism (hot springs, spas)!
In short, Thessaloniki is a city that can cater for even the
most demanding needs, any time of the year.
7

«…There is a homeland for everyone,


while there is Thessaloniki»

Nikiforos Choumnos,
14thc. Byzantine dignitary and a scholar.
THE HISTORY OF
315 BC: Late 4th AD:
26 adjoining townlets The town becomes
merge to form Thessaloniki. the administrative centre
The town is founded by of Macedonia; Byzantine
Cassander, King of Macedonia, emperor Theodosius builds
and named after his wife the fortifications of Thessaloniki.
Thessaloniki – half sister
to Alexander the Great. 5th - 12th c.:
Raids by Goths, Persians,
168 BC: Arabs, Turks and Bulgarians.
The Romans take the city The town is spared destruction
over. thanks to its massive walls.

148 BC: 1185:


It becomes the capital The Norsemen occupy
town of the roman province Thessaloniki.
of Macedonia.
1224:
130 BC: After the 20-year Frankish
Construction of Via Egnatia domination of Thessaloniki,
which connected the town the town is taken by Theodore
with the then known world. Komnenos Doukas and is
declared the capital of the
circa 50 BC: Despotate of Epirus.
Cicero, the Roman orator
8 1300-1430:
becomes a resident.
The golden age of the
42 BC: town involves great financial,
social and intellectual growth.
Thessaloniki is declared Some of the most significant
a “free town” (civitas libera). monuments, built at that time,
still stand today.
50 BC:
Apostle Paul’s first visit 1342-1349:
to the town. He came back The Zealot Movement
seven years later. prevails as a reaction to
medieval hegemonism
Late 3rd – early 4th c. AD: and the reign “by the grace
Becomes the seat of of God”.
the eastern section of the
Roman Empire [according 1423:
to the system of Tetrarchia – The town surrenders to the
(meaning “leadership of four Venetians.
men”)] under ceasar Galerius
Maximianus. 1430:
323 BC: The Ottoman Turks seize
Thessaloniki.
Constantine, the first
emperor of Byzantium settles 15th c.:
in town in order to wage war
on Licinius. A large Jewish population
T H E S S A LO N I K I
1917:
settles in town, chased out
of European countries – The biggest part of the
mostly of the Iberian pninsula. town is destroyed by a fire
Their role in Thessaloniki’s that breaks out on August
history will be a significant 18th and lasts for 32 hours.
one until the mid-20th century. Rebuilding begins following
the designs of a special
16th-18th c.: international architectural
committee led by Ernest
Thessaloniki grows,
Hébrard, French architect and
and the various ethnic and
urban planner.
religious communities live
in harmony. In the 18th c.
1922-1923:
the town acquires the features
of a large trade centre. As a result of the Asia
Minor Catastrophe (the last
Late 19th c.: stage of the Greco-Turkish
War) and the agreement
A railway connection is on population exchange
established with Europe and between Greece and Turkey,
Constantinople. Infrastructure Thessaloniki receives large
gets streamlined and numbers of Greek refugees
Thessaloniki acquires the feel from Asia Minor, though an
of a cosmopolitan European incoming flow of refugees
city. The Greeks become at (from east Thrace, Pontus etc)
this point in time the largest had already begun in 1913. 9
part of the population.
1943:
1890:
The German occupation
Fire incinerates a considerable forces wipe out the biggest
part of the town’s seafront part of the city’s Jewish
zone. population by sending them to
concentration camps.
1912:
1978:
During the 1st Balkan War,
the Greek army seizes the A mighty earthquake
town on October 26th; after occurs on June 20th reaching
five centuries of ottoman 6.5 on the Richter scale.
occupation, Thessaloniki Severe damages are inflicted
becomes part of Greece. on the town, resulting in the
death of 49 people.
1916:
1997:
Following a clash with
King Constantine, Eleftherios Thessaloniki becomes the
Venizelos forms the “European Capital of Culture”.
temporary “National Defence
Government” in Thessaloniki, 2014:
which remained there for The city is named the
several months. “European Youth Capital”.
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UNESCO BYZANTINE MONUMENTS


OU
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Thessaloniki has been A tour across this unique


one of the first towns to open-air Byzantine museum
ON
IS

know the Christian religion by is truly a special experience.


the Apostle Paul; during the
Byzantine period it used to be
the second most important 1 HOLY TWELVE
city of the empire (co-reigning APOSTLES CHURCH
city) after Constantinople. One of the town’s oldest
At that time (4th – 15th c.), churches was built in 1310 –
Christian monuments and 1314 under the sponsorship
churches were constructed in
of Patriarch Nephon I. It used
2. the town, and these make up
a diachronic typology with a to be a katholicon [main church]
Southern view of a monastery dedicated to
of Panagia decisive influence on the entire
Byzantine world. The following Theotokos [Mother of God] as
Chalkeon shown by the mural depicting
Church. early-Christian and Byzantine
monuments of the town are Theotokos and the Founder,
3. considered to be excellent as well as by the iconography
Agia Sofia specimens of the Byzantine on the aisle with images of
Church church-building and art, and the Holy Virgin’s life. Out
surrounded for this reason UNESCO of the original monastery
by a small declared them to be World complex, -apart from the
garden. Heritage Monuments, in 1988. katholicon – there remain the
portal to the southwest and
3 ACHEIROPOIITOS

UNESCO BYZANTINE MONUMENTS


1st walk:
the cistern to the northwest. CHURCH
It is a complex tetrastyle It was founded in the second
cross-in-square church with half of the 5th c. on the site
a narthex and a peristyle on of the roman public baths
the three sides and extremely and it was dedicated to
symmetrical proportions. Panagia (Virgin Mary). It is a
When it was converted into three-aisled, timber-roofed
a mosque, during the Turkish basilica with a narthex and a
rule, the murals and mosaics – gallery. The nave is separated
outstanding specimens by the side aisles with
of Palaeologan art dating colonnades of Theodosian-
to the 14th c. – were covered style pillars and impost
by plaster and a minaret was capitals made of marble
added to the southwestern side. as is made the floor of the
nave. The preserved mosaic
decorations date to the 5th
2 P
 ANAGIA CHALKEON c. whereas the murals on the
CHURCH south aisle date to the 13th
It is located on the SW side c. After the city was captured
of Dikastirion Sq. [Law Courts by the Turks, this was the
Sq.]. It was built in 1128 on first church to be turned into
the site of an ancient temple a mosque. In 1922-1923 it
of Hephaestus or Kaveiros. housed refugees from Asia
It is a representative specimen Minor and in 1939 Christian
of the architecture of the worship was once again
practiced in it.
“School of Constantinople” and
was thus named because of
the area it was built on, known 4 AGIA SOFIA CHURCH
as the district of coppersmiths [or ΗAGIA SOPHIA]
(masters of copper – chalkos). It was built in the mid-7th c.
The most prominent feature on the ruins of a 5th c. basilica,
is the level above the narthex. as a copy of Hagia Sophia 11
In 1430 it was converted into [Holy Wisdom of God] in
a mosque and was named Constantinople, and is one
Kazancilar Camii. of the most important early-

2 3
Christian monuments in the example of the transitional type
1st walk:
UNESCO BYZANTINE MONUMENTS
Orthodox world. It is a cross- in Byzantine church-building,
domed basilica and used to found particularly in Macedonia.
be the Metropolitan Church Fine depictions of the Ascension
(Cathedral) until 1523 when it of Christ, the Prophets and the
was converted into a mosque; Divine Liturgy decorate the dome.
it was restored to Christian
worship after 1912. The
capitals date to the 5th – 6th 6 ROTUNDA [ROTONTA]
c. (they were part of the older This impressive round building
church); the wonderful mosaics lies on the route connecting
are an absolute must-see, the triumphal arch of Galerius
particularly the ones on the (Kamara, see p. 37) and the
dome with the image of the Palace of Galerius (see p. 29).
Ascension of Christ, as are It has a diameter of 24.5 m.
the murals crafted in different and its gigantic dome is 30
stages from the 8th to the m. high. It was built in 306
11th c. In the church’s south
AD by Galerius, probably as a
side, amid green surroundings
temple of Zeus or Kaveiros or
you will find the church of
Agios Ioannis Prodromos [St. as a mausoleum; in the 5th c.
John the Forerunner] (1940); it was converted into a church
from this point you will enter dedicated to the Holy Bodiless
the early-Christian baptistery Powers. The 5th c. outstanding
(catacomb) of Agia Sofia, built preserved mosaics impress
on the ruins of roman baths. with their variety of themes,
their naturalistic rendering,
the colour diversity and the
5 TRANSFIGURATION OF brilliance of the gold and
THE SAVIOUR CHURCH silver tesserae. In 1591 it was
[METAMORFOSI SOTIROS] turned into a mosque when a
It is located on Egnatia Street towering minaret was added,
(see p. 34) almost between which survives today. In the
12 Kamara (see p. 37) and the square, next to Rotunda, lies
Palace of Galerius (see p. 29). the small church of Agios
Construction took place possibly Georgios [St. George] whence
around 1340 and it is a typical the monument took its

4 5

4.
The church of the
Transfiguration
of the Saviour.
5.
The impressive
Rotunda
monument
(Agios Georgios).
6.
The byzantine
church of Agios
Dimitrios,
patron saint of
Thessaloniki.
other name; there are also Thessaloniki’s patron saint. It

UNESCO BYZANTINE MONUMENTS


1st walk:
many cafés and bars. In the was built during the 7th c. on
adjoining Melenikou st. you will
the ruins of a 5th c. Basilica and
see segments of the town’s in 1493 it was converted into
eastern walls. a mosque. It was destroyed
in 1917 by the fire but it was
A
 GIOS PANTELEIMONAS restored and reopened in
7 1948. It is a five-aisle transept
CHURCH
basilica with a women’s gallery
It is on Iasonidou st., pretty and a narthex. The sculpted
close to Rotunda. According decorative motifs originate
to certain scholars, this from the 5th c. basilica and
was the main church of
other buildings and this
the Monastery of Kyr Isaac
explains their variety; equally
or Theotokos Perivleptos,
interesting are the capitals (5th
founded by Jacob, the
Metropolitan Bishop of and 6th c.). The mosaics found
Thessaloniki (1295-1314). on the west side date to the
It is a tetrastyle cross-in- 5 th
c. while those on the piers
square domed church with a around the sanctuary [bema]
surrounding portico ending are later additions. Those
to the east in two chapels. depicting the saint among
During the Turkish Occupation children, flanked by the bishop
it was changed into a mosque and the prefect are of great
under the name Ishakiye value. In the basement lies the
Camii (the mosque of Isaac). Krypt on the site where Roman
Remaining murals date to public baths used to be. This
the 13th – 14th c. and depict is the place of martyrdom for
saints and prelates as well Saint Demetrius in 303 or 305.
the Virgin Mary. When the 5th c. Church was
built, the baths became a place
of special worship and the water
8 AGIOS DIMITRIOS flowing was believed to be holy.
CHURCH Since 1988 it is an exhibition
13
It is the best known Byzantine area for sculptures, capitals,
church of the town as Agios panels, vessels etc, where
Dimitrios [St. Demetrius] is cultural events also take place.

6
9 AGIA AIKATERINI Monastery] or Moni Akapniou
1st walk:
UNESCO BYZANTINE MONUMENTS
[St. CATHERINE’s] [Akapniou Monastery]. It was
CHURCH situated in the area of the
Byzantine palaces and this
This 14 c. Byzantine church is
th
is why the Turks had named
situated in the centre of Agia the area Balat (Palace) and
Aikaterini town quarter in Ano the church Eski Saray Camii
Poli [Upper City] area (see p. (Old Palace mosque). It is a
42) It is a complex tetrastyle tetrastyle cross-in-square
inscribed cross-in-square domed church with features
five-domed church with an related to the monasterial
ambulatory. It bears an elaborate architecture of Mount Athos.
brick-work on the external The central dome is supported
surfaces and outstanding by granite columns in the
murals, contemporary to the shape of a cross, the building’s
construction of the edifice, central part was enlarged by
which depict figures of saints, the addition of two conchs
scenes from the Gospel, [semi-domes] whereas in
miracles of Christ etc. During the west section there is a
the Ottoman Rule the church rectangular cupolaed narthex.
was converted into a mosque The murals (14th c.) depict
(Yakup Pasha Camii) and the images of saints and scenes
murals were covered in plaster, from the life and miracles of
to be exposed once again during Christ. Also, at the junction of
the restoration works that took Olympiados and Amfilochias
place in 1947 – 1951. Sts. there is a surviving
ottoman fountain.
10 PROFITIS ILIAS
[PROPHET ELIJAH] 11 BYZANTINE BATHS
CHURCH (KULE KAFE)
This imposing church (late 13th It is located on Romfei Sq. (see
– mid 14th c.) towering over p. 43) in Ano Poli and it is the
14 Olympiados st. in the outskirts only surviving Byzantine bath
of Ano Poli (see p. 42) is house, a domed 13th c. building
thought to have been the made of brick, which was
main church of Nea Moni [New open to the public until 1940.

7.
Profitis Ilias
Church.
8.
Moni Vlatadon
is right in the
heart of Upper
(Old) City.
During the Ottoman period it an unobstructed view of the

UNESCO BYZANTINE MONUMENTS


1st walk:
was named Kule Hamam and city and the Thermaic gulf.
was divided in two (male and
female section).
13 MONI VLATADON
It is the only Byzantine
12 HOSIOS DAVID monastery in the city with
(MONI LATOMOU)
an active community. It was
Moni Latomou [Latomou founded in the 14th c. by the
Monastery] has a huge monks Vlatis (or Vlateus)
archaeological and historical brothers and was dedicated to
value, since it is an early type Pantocrator Christos [Almighty
of a cross-in-square domed Christ]. Celebrations take
church. Its construction dates place on the Transfiguration
back to the 5th or 6th c. and of Christ feast day. Its main
it is believed to have been church [katholikon] is of the
built by Theodora, daughter inscribed cross-in-square type
of the Byzantine emperor but the dome rests on the
Maximilianus, who had been walls and on two piers instead
baptised a Christian. The of columns. It is surrounded
monastery was dedicated to by a portico and there are two
Hosios David [Saint David] in chapels. Murals were painted
1921. Especially noteworthy during 1360 – 1380 and the
are the mosaic depictions 17th c. iconostasis is particularly
on the ceiling which show noteworthy. It is surrounded
the Vision of Ezekiel and by a large garden offering a
are contemporary to the wonderful view of the city and
construction of the monastery; there is also a small peacock
the later ones of the 12th, 13th farm; in the grounds you will
and 14th c. are also great art also find the newer buildings
specimens of the Komnenian of Misirogleios Library, the
period. There is a surviving Patriarchal Foundation for
minaret entrance built in the Theological Studies (1968), 15
16th c. when the church was a space provided for the study of
converted into a mosque. The pictorial manuscripts from Mount
small picturesque yard offers Athos, a bookstore and a shop.

8
14 AGIOS NIKOLAOS p. 44). During the Venetian Rule
1st walk:
UNESCO BYZANTINE MONUMENTS
[SAINT NICHOLAS] (1st half of the 15th c.) there
ORPHANOS CHURCH were efforts to boost it in the
light of the Turkish threat; this
It was built in the 1310s, is why certain scholars support
as a dependency of Vlatadon that the Trigoniou Tower (see p.
Monastery and it served as a 45) and the White Tower (see p.
monastery main church. Within 24) were built during that period.
the same grounds there used In the following centuries, the
to be an orphanage at earlier Turks completed reinforcement
times – hence the name works in various places. The
“Orphanos” [meaning Orphan]. wall inscriptions describe the
It is an aisleless timber-roofed interventions and restorations
church sided by an ambulatory that took place over time. The
forming the shape “Π”. walls followed the shape of an
The 14 c. murals inside are
th
irregular trapezium and ended
true masterpieces depicting to the west in Vardariou Tower
scenes of Dodekaorto [the (see p. 59) and to the east in
Twelve major religious feasts the White Tower (see p. 24),
of the year], of the Passion reaching a total length of 7 km.
of Christ, the Resurrection and After 1870, demolition of the
the Liturgical Cycle as well as seafront walls as well as of parts
figures of saints; the monument of the western and eastern walls
is considered as one of the began, in order to sanitise the
best preserved in Thessaloniki. plains and also to expand the
It is surrounded by lush and city. Today there are 3 remaining
serene gardens. km of city walls (mainly on Ano
Poli, see p. 42); their height
15 CITY WALLS ranges from 8.30 to 10.50 m.
and their width may measure
Thessaloniki was walled up to 4.50 m, making them
immediately after it was an impressive monument and
founded by Cassander; in one of great archaeological and
390 AD a series of large- cultural value.
16 scale changes took place by Note: To get a complete
Theodosius I. In the Byzantine picture of the town’s Byzantine art
times a harbour was constructed monuments make sure you visit
(in the SW part) and the the Museum of Byzantine Culture
Acropolis wall was raised (see (see p. 26 and p. 71).

9.
View of the
eastern walls
of Thessaloniki.
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4.1

2nd walk:
17
HISTORIC CENTRE (1)
TRADITIONAL COMMERCIAL CENTRE
1 ARISTOTELOUS city’s Byzantine tradition
SQUARE with European interwar
period motifs. The square is
Thessaloniki’s central square landmarked by two identical
is one of the largest and most concave buildings: Electra
impressive in Greece, and Palace hotel (late sixties) -
a bustling place twenty four built by GNTO architects -
hours a day. It is one of the on the west side, and Olympion
few sections of the Hébrard on the east side, which was
Committee urban plan, which progressively erected and
came to be realised after the completed by the late fifties
1917 fire, although it became (designed by J. Moshé)
fully shaped in as late as the and is now the seat of the
early 1960s. It is a square Thessaloniki Film Festival
on the seafront, with a 100 (see p. 108).
m. opening, that affords an
amazing view of the Thermaic MUST SEE:
Gulf and the Olympus massif.
1.1 Aristotelous Street.
The monumental style of
architecture is shown in the Pedestrianised historic
buildings’ facades, colonnades, boulevard, that ends in Egnatia
arcades and porticos, which Street (see p. 34). According
combine elements from the to the Hébrard plans, it would
link the town’s civic centre wharf. Today, this is one of
2nd walk:
HISTORIC CENTRE (1)
TRADITIONAL COMMERCIAL CENTRE
(Dikastirion Square, see p. 35) the top places in Thessaloniki,
and Kassandrou Street with crossed daily by thousands of
Aristotelous Square and the locals and visitors. One side
seafront. All along the street of the avenue is lined with
there are buildings the facades cafés and cosy little bars and
of which all follow specific the opposite wide pedestrian
architectural patterns with area next to the sea gets
colonnades and arcades, and filled with strollers, cyclists,
they house offices, bookshops, street artists and vendors.
stores, hotels, state agencies, Among the modern blocks of
residencies etc. The junction of flats, you will see some of the
Aristotelous and Ermou Streets city’s major landmarks: past
is the location of the church of Eleftherias square, the three-
Agia [Saint] Theodora (1937) storey interwar period mansion
built on an old monastery site where Olympos-Naousa a
now housing a community of once popular restaurant used
monks; facing north you will to be; Aristotelous square;
see upper Aristotelous square. Koniordou Mansion (at the
corner with Kar. Dil street);
1.2 Shopping streets
Tyroloi Mansion built during
(see p. 27) the Interbellum (located
between Kar. Dil and Agia Sofia
Streets), where Tottis coffee
2 NIKIS AVENUE shop used to be for many
It starts at the harbour from years; Mandalideio Mansion
the west and goes eastward (1931) and Exarchopoulos
to the White Tower (see p. 24) Mansion (1935) - the two
and it is known as Palia Paralia last ones are situated at the
[Old Seafront]. The Turks junction with Vogatsikou
opened it up in 1882, following street; at 63, Nikis Avenue
an urban plan for modernising you will see the three-storey
the city, after the seafront city building of the Thessaloniki
18 walls were demolished. For Club (1926); at number 73,
many decades, traders and Pallas, an old cinema theatre,
warships, fishing boats and houses the State Orchestra of
yachts would dock along the Thessaloniki.

10

10.
Bustling Nikis
Avenue and
the White
Tower in the
background.
3 ELEFTHERIAS SQUARE neoclassical and Bauhaus-

TRADITIONAL COMMERCIAL CENTRE


HISTORIC CENTRE (1)
2nd walk:
style buildings with popular
The square is close to the cafés, bar restaurants, and
harbour and it is used as an small hotels. Stein Building is
open-air car parking lot. This at the corner of El. Venizelos
is the spot where, back in and Kalapothaki Streets; it
1943, the German Occupation
was built in 1908 in order to
forces mustered about 50,000
house a department store
Jewish residents in order to
ship them to concentration and it is one of the very few
camps. To commemorate buildings that were spared
this event, the Holocaust destruction at the 1917 great
Memorial of the Jewish Greeks fire. Notice the glass globe on
of Thessaloniki was placed in the top of the building, a point
1997 at the square’s northeast of reference in Eleftherias Sq.
side, crafted by the sculptor In the neighbouring Komninon
N. Glid. At the junction of Street it is worth noticing the
Mitropoleos and I. Dragoumi eclectic style on buildings
streets stand the imposing such as Luxemburg Hotel as
buildings of the National well as Tourist and Excelsior
Bank of Greece & the Bank Hotels at the junction with
of Greece (1928) and of the Mitropoleos streets.
Ionian and Popular Bank (1929
– today Alpha Bank); elements 4 PORT
of late neoclassicism and
interwar period eclecticism are The area is one of the biggest
evident on the outside of both ports of the country and of the
buildings. southeastern Mediterranean,
with a significant trade and
MUST SEE: passenger traffic. This is where
the first artificial harbour of
3.1 Kalapothaki Street.
the town was constructed by
It starts at Ladadika area, Constantine the Great during
ends at Dimosthenous his short stay in Thessaloniki 19
street and its biggest part is (322-323 AD); later on during
now pedestrianised. There the Turkish Occupation it
are some very interesting was banked up with earth.
Construction for the first Modiano, and its structure
2nd walk:
HISTORIC CENTRE (1)
TRADITIONAL COMMERCIAL CENTRE
wharf of the port began in bears the influence of early
the late 19th c.; in 1910 six 20th c. french architecture.
warehouses were built and Since 1987 it is the city port’s
all of them are fine examples passenger board station.
of industrial architecture of
that time. In 1997, on the
occasion of events celebrating
5 LADADIKA
Thessaloniki as the European This is one of the very few
Capital of Culture, five of them main town areas that were
were revamped and reopened: spared destruction when
warehouses 1 and D housed the 1917 fire broke out. It
the International Film Festival was created in the 16th c.
of Thessaloniki (see p. when the Turks banked the
108); warehouse A houses Byzantine artificial harbour
the Thessaloniki Cinema up with earth, and ended in
Museum and the Museum of Fragkomachalas area (see p.
Photography of Thessaloniki 22); Ladadika quarter used to
(to view the exhibits, see p. be located outside the city’s
77-78); warehouse B1 houses western walls until these were
the Thessaloniki Centre of pulled down. Marked as an
Contemporary Art (see p. 75); area for wholesale trade close
and warehouse C is now to the harbour, it was known
a bar-restaurant. This place for its spices and grain shops
is among the most popular and after 1917 for its olive oil
ones for strolling, relaxing, storage rooms. Street mapping
and enjoying a fine view has remained unchanged since
of the seafront. the late 19th c. and most of
the buildings – erected mostly
MUST SEE: during the 2nd half of the 19th
4.1 Customs House
c. – are two-storeyed and were
constructed using industrial
(Passenger Board). brick and wood although
20
This imposing 200 m. long several were demolished later
building was built in 1910, to make way for new streets
designed by architect Eli or widen old ones. After

11 12

11.
A street in
Ladadika area.
12.
The Passenger
Station building
(old Customs
House), by the
harbour.
13.
Agios Minas
church is right
in the heart
of the city’s
traditional
shopping area.
WWII the area was gradually trade and business-oriented

TRADITIONAL COMMERCIAL CENTRE


HISTORIC CENTRE (1)
2nd walk:
downgraded; in 1985 it was area of the town in the post
proclaimed a historic area with World War II period, as this is
listed buildings. Since the early where most of Thessaloniki’s
1990s, steps were taken to best-known shops, offices and
upgrade Ladadika, turning it agencies are, not to mention
into a hotspot area in town the variety of popular cafés
with numerous restaurants, and bars.
clubs, cafés and venues where
live Greek music is performed. MUST SEE:
A central spot where you can
6.1 Kazes Building.
start your tour is Morichovou
sq.; it is worth stopping by It is situated opposite the
Petrakaki sq. where you will see building housing the National
the Mansion of the Ottoman Bank of Greece and the Bank
Post Office (today a hotel) of Greece (see p. 17), on the
–among other sights. Other corner with I. Dragoumi Street.
places of interest are Aigyptou, It was designed by Xenophon
Katouni, Lykourgou, and Edessis Paionidis and built in 1924;
streets (in Emporiou sq. or today it houses shops and
Ano Ladadika, past Tsimiski offices. On the opposite side
street) where you will see two of I. Dragoumi Street, there
surviving inns. There are still is a 1925 listed building with
traces of smoke dating to curved balconies.
the 1917 fire on the facades
of buildings fronting on the 6.2 Agios [Saint] Minas
harbour! Church.
Situated at the market
6 TSIMISKI STREET centre, the church was built
on the location of an early
This main street is among the Christian basilica, of which
busiest downtown places and remains only the semi-circular
connects YMCA square (see conch of the sanctuary and 21
p. 26) with Ladadika. It was the pulpit. It was burned twice
constructed after the 1917 fire since 1806 and in 1852 it
and has turned into the top was finally shaped as a three-

13
aisled post-byzantine basilica. 6.5 Pazar (Yahudi) Hamami.
2nd walk:
HISTORIC CENTRE (1)
TRADITIONAL COMMERCIAL CENTRE
The interior decoration is of
It was built in the early 16th
particular interest as it shows
c. in the marketplace area
influences from baroque,
(Pazar) where Jews (Yahudi)
rococo and neoclassical styles.
settled a little later, when
6.3 The Jewish Museum they were banished from the
of Thessaloniki. Iberian Peninsula. This was
a double hamam [with two
It is housed in a 1904 historic separate sections – for men
building (V. Poselli), which and women]. The interior has
survived the 1917 fire and is been arranged as three spaces
owned by Jews. There used to (keeping a cold, tepid and
be a shopping arcade there, warm temperature) and walls
once, and it has –at times- have been built following the
housed a bank and the offices Byzantine style. There is an
of a jewish newspaper (for open-air flower market there
museum exhibits, see p. 73). and the area has been known
as Louloudadika [as louloudia
6.4 Venizelou street. stands for flowers].
A very busy street linking
6.6 Chamber of Commerce
Eleftherias sq. with the
& Industry (29, Tsimiski Str.).
Residency since 1867 (see p. 39).
It is a shopping street lined An impressive neoclassical
with many interesting buildings building, constructed in 1930,
of eclectic and art deco style, fully refurbished in 2003.
mostly up to Egnatia street Opposite stands the Hirsch
(see p. 34). On the north side Building (Arcade), also known
of the junction of Venizelou as Totti Arcade, nowadays a
and Tsimiski streets, lies the shopping mall (entrance via
Gategno-Florentin Building, a Mitropoleos street).
typical example of architectural
eclecticism, built in 1925, by 6.7 Austrian Tobacco
22 Monopoly Warehouses.
civil engineer J.J. Pleyber. It is
a four-floor building and fronts A complex of two 1926 art
three streets. deco buildings (for tobacco

14 15

14 & 15.
Inside Modiano
arcade [Market
area] (left), you
will find many
a grocer’s shop
(right).
16.
An eclectic
style building
on Venizelou St.
17.
A typical
local shop
you will find
in Bezesteni.
warehouses in Thessaloniki see ouzo restaurants and coffee

TRADITIONAL COMMERCIAL CENTRE


HISTORIC CENTRE (1)
2nd walk:
also p. 62). To change it into shops.
a shopping mall (Plateia) in
1995-1997, it was completely
reshaped with only the exterior MUST SEE:
remaining unchanged. Today it 7.1 Modiano Market.
houses shops, cinemas, cafés
and restaurants, all of which It was built in 1922 by
surround the central atrium. engineer E. Modiano, and it is
known as Modiano Market. It
6.8 Buildings on Karolou is a glass-roofed rectangular
Dil [Charles Diehl] street. edifice containing 140 food
shops inside its three arcades.
At the junction of Tsimiski You will find choice traditional
and Karolou Dil Streets lie products here and a number of
impressive buildings that particularly popular restaurants
date to the early 20th c., now inside the complex as well as
housing shops and offices; along the perimeter.
they are absolutely worth your
attention. 7.2 Vlali-Kapani &
Athonos-Vatikioti Markets.
7 TRADITIONAL Designed by Ernest Hébrard,
MARKETS they intersect Aristotelous
The area west of Aristotelous street vertically and they are
street and south of Egnatia connected to it via special
Street encompasses the passageways. These are
town’s traditional market; it complexes of two-storeyed
is dotted with small shops, malls with archways on the
malls and arcades, most of ground floor. Vlali-Kapani
which date back to the time market is located on the west
of the Turkish Occupation. side of Aristotelous street,
Today, in these much visited where Un Kapani (flour market)
marketplaces, you can find all used to be during the time
23
kinds of products – food and of the Turkish Occupation.
spices, fabrics, jewellery, small This spot is a food and
boutiques and also tavernas, spices market; in the small

16 17
Vlali square you will find well as in the exterior – most
2nd walk:
HISTORIC CENTRE (1)
TRADITIONAL COMMERCIAL CENTRE
coffee shops and traditional of them selling textiles or
restaurants. A memorial has jewellery.
been erected at the junction
of Spandoni, Ermou and 7.4 Stoa Saul.
Venizelou streets, in memory The arcade’s construction
of MP Gr. Lamprakis who was was completed in 1881 (plans
assassinated in May 1963. by V. Poselli); after its partial
In Vatikioti market as well destruction in the 1917 fire,
as in Athonos square, east it was rebuilt in 1929 (plans
of Aristotelous street, there by C. Modiano). It combines
are shops selling produce, neo-renaissance and art
spices, songbirds, packaging deco elements and initially
and shoe-making ware; in it housed the bank of Saul
Athonos square you will find Modiano and shops; today this
workshops selling wooden and is mostly an entertainment
wicker chairs as well as many place.
tavernas and ouzo restaurants.
7.5 Vas. Irakleiou –
7.3 Bezesteni. Fragkon Street.
It lies at the corner of A central road which used
Solomou and Venizelou to be called Fragkomachalas
streets. It is a rectangular [Frankish quarter] as there
building with four entrances were many settlers from
and six lead-covered domes Western Europe in this area
with inscriptions of all of after the 13th c. It starts at
the craftsmen’s names on Aristotelous Street and ends
them. It was built in the late at Dikastirion district (see p.
15th – early 16th c. as a textile 59). Banks, foreign agencies
market [bezesten] and a and hotels used to be here
market of precious stones, at earlier times; today this is
which was guarded 24 hours a commercial hub (including
24 a day. It has kept most of its the side streets) which has
character as there are over evolved into an entertainment
110 shops in the interior as district as well, since nearby

18

18. Malakopi
Arcade on
Chrimatistiriou Sq.
19. You will
find quite a few
popular tavernas
on Athonos Sq.
20. Traditional
marketplaces
in Thessaloniki
offer top quality
foodstuffs,
vegetables
and fruit.
21. A striking
building dated
to the early
20th c., near
Bezesteni.
TRADITIONAL COMMERCIAL CENTRE
HISTORIC CENTRE (1)
2nd walk:
19

Valaoritou Street and the of an older church which


neighbouring ones (Syngrou, got destroyed in the 1917
Vilara Streets and others) are fire. It lies in a serene yard
lined with cafés, bars and and its 40 m. tall belfry is
restaurants. In Syngrou Street, quite impressive. Notice the
you will find Chrimatistiriou building housing the State
Sq. [Money-brokers sq.] and Conservatory of Thessaloniki
the building of Stoa Malakopi (1903), at the corner of Vas.
[Malakopi Arcade] – of neo- Irakleiou and L. Sofou Streets;
renaissance style- (1907, V. it was built in a neobaroque
Poselli) which housed a bank style by Turkish architects on
until 1954 and commercial the location of an old mansion
enterprises later on. The main which was blown up that year
feature in the centre of the by Bulgarian nationalists as it
pediment (in Vilara Street) housed the Ottoman Bank. Its
is the clock which stopped garden is decorated with the
at the time when the 1978 oldest 19th c. statues found
earthquake took place. In the outdoors in town (named
arcade’s interior you will find Oikonomia [Economy], Pistis
amusement areas and shops. [Faith] and Triton). Ermou St.
At a stone’s throw lies the runs parallel to Vas. Irakleiou 25
Catholic Church (1898, V. St. and it is an interesting
Poselli), built on the location shopping centre.

20 21
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3rd walk:
24
HISTORIC CENTRE (2)
MUSEUM AREA
The area is considered view of the sea; there are
as one of the most privileged green areas and many shops,
places downtown on account cafés and bars.
of its proximity to the beach;
it is traditionally regarded as
MUST SEE:
the residential area of the
well-to-do. There are many 1.1 The White Tower.
well-known shops here, green
This is the city’s most
spots, as well as some of the famous landmark -
most important museums monument. It was probably
and cultural institutions. built in the late 15th c. on
the location where the city’s
eastern and seaside walls
1 THE WHITE TOWER meet; it is also believed that
AREA
a tower existed there
This central location is where in Venetian times. It is
22. major city roads meet (Nikis a round six-storey construction,
The White Ave, Megalou Alexandrou Ave., rising 33.90 m. high, and
Tower, Pavlou Mela, Ethnikis Amynis, measuring 22.70 m. in
Thessaloniki’s Germanou) and where the old diameter; it was surrounded
most famous part of the waterfront meets by fortifications until the early
monument. the new one. It affords a lovely 20th c. Over time, it acquired
various names; in the 19th 1.3 Ethnikis Amynis

MUSEUM AREA
HISTORIC CENTRE (2)
3rd walk:
c. it was called Tower of the Street.
Janissaries or Blood Tower
as it served as jail for It leads from the White
prisoners on death row Tower to Syntrivaniou Square
whose life was eventually (see p. 37) and to Agiou
taken by the Janissaries on Dimitriou Street (see p. 39).
the ramparts. In 1890 it was It was laid out after the 1889
painted white thus acquiring demolition of the eastern
its current name. A particularly city walls (a section of its
interesting exhibition is held Byzantine ramparts still stands
in the Tower on the history on Filikis Etaireias Street which
of Thessaloniki (see p. 73); runs parallel to Ethnikis Amynis
from the top of the Tower Street. Until 1912 it was called
you can enjoy the panoramic Hamidiye Boulevard, in honour
view. The small square around of the Sultan Abdul Hamid
the monument is one of the II, as all the buildings along
hotspots in town; this is where the street were his property.
small boat bars leave for a Today, this is the location of
short run within the Thermaic the Theatre of the Society for
Gulf, serving coffee or a drink. Macedonian Studies (1962,
Opposite lies the Park of the V. Kassandras) housing the
White Tower where you will State Theatre of Northern
find the open air Municipal Greece (S.T.N.G.) as well as
Garden Theatre, the Gallery of the S.M.S. (see p.
a bar, a playground and 77), and the adjacent Building
a skate spot. A’ of the S.M.S. (1951, A.
Nikolopoulos), the Hellenic
1.2 Royal [Vasiliko] Army Club (1953, P. Mylonas)
Theatre. and Alexandros cinema. The
It was built in 1940, got small Tsirogiannis Park is
renovated in 1996, and it has situated nearby and around
a seating capacity of 800. it you will find some popular
This is one of the winter halls cafés and bars.
25
(Melina Merkouri Hall) of the
State Theatre of Northern
1.4 Diagonios.
Greece (S.T.N.G., see p. 110). This typical downtown

22
quarter covers the area around architectural design in Greece.
3rd walk:
HISTORIC CENTRE (2)
MUSEUM AREA
the junction of Tsimiski and An annex was added in 1980
Pavlou Mela streets. It was and in 2003 the museum
named after the diagonal was extensively remodelled
tracing of P. Mela street. to accommodate contemporary
needs. There are rooms for
1.5 YMCA Building. periodic exhibitions, events
This emblematic building and educational programmes,
(1934) houses the Young a café and a shop (see p.70
Men’s Christian Association for museum exhibits).
of Thessaloniki. It bears a
significant mixture of elements 1.7 Museum of Byzantine
of neo-colonial and byzantine Culture.
architecture. The building also It was built during the
houses Avlaia theatre; among years 1989 – 1993, following
the surrounding constructions the designs of architect K.
are an outdoor basketball field Krokos. It combines elements
and a tennis court, an indoor of modernism and Greek
gym and a cultural centre. architectural tradition and it
In front of the building lies is considered one of the best
the small YMCA square. contemporary constructions
The Armenian Church (1903, meant for public use in Greece.
V. Poselli) is at a very short In 2001 it was declared a
distance, between Dialetti listed historic monument and
and Ant. Kamara Streets. a work of art. Inside there is
a small amphitheatre, a café-
1.6 Archaeological
restaurant and a wing for
Museum. hosting periodic exhibitions
It was designed by P. (see p. 71 for museum
Karantinos, a major Greek exhibits). The adjacent
architect, and it was building is the new Town Hall
inaugurated in 1962. Inspired (inaugurated in 2009); at the
26 by the ancient Greek Revival back there is a park (formerly
Architectural style, it is named Pedion Areos, a section
considered as one of the most of an old military camp), with
typical examples of modernist a playground, a small lake and

23

23.
The Y.M.C.A.
building.
Notice the
neo-byzantine
architectural
elements.
24.
A panoramic
view of the
Archaeological
Museum of
Thessaloniki.
a café as well as the eclectic- go out for a coffee, a meal

MUSEUM AREA
HISTORIC CENTRE (2)
3rd walk:
style (military) building at the or a drink in the numerous
corner of Vas. Georgiou and hangouts lining the streets.
Kaftanzoglou Streets, now
housing the local branch
of the Greek Scouts. 4 MUSEUM FOR
THE MACEDONIAN
STRUGGLE
2 NIKIS AVENUE
The building is among the
(see p. 16) very few purely neo-classical
ones in town; it was built
3 SHOPPING STREETS in the years 1890-1893 to
plans by Ernst Ziller after the
In the area including 1890 fire. Until 1912 this
Proxenou Koromila and building housed the Greek
Mitropoleos roads and the General Consulate and during
adjacent streets such as the period 1923-1978 it
Palaion Patron Germanou- provided the space for the
Vogatsikou, Chrysostomou state elementary schools. After
Smyrnis, Mitropolitou Iosif, that, the facility has housed
Lassani, Agias Sofias, Karolou collections of the Museum
Dil (lined with remarkable (see p. 74). Right next to it,
buildings of the interwar you will see the metropolitan
period) and Tsimiski street, church of Agios Gregorios
you will find some of the Palamas (1914, plans by
most expensive shops (selling E. Ziller and Xen. Paionidis);
clothes, shoes, jewellery, it is classified as a Byzantine
furniture, accessories etc) as domed octagon type with neo-
well as a number of the most Romanic and neo-classical
well-known shopping malls elements. Behind the church,
in the city. You will also find at the corner of Vogatsikou
haute couture boutiques by and Mitropoleos streets, you
Greek and foreign designers will see the Ecclesiastical 27
and several art galleries. Museum of the Metropolitan
Thessalonians visit the area Church of Thessaloniki,
for their shopping as they where a major collection of

24
icons, church heritage items for buys, or a coffee, a drink or
3rd walk:
HISTORIC CENTRE (2)
MUSEUM AREA
and relics are on display. a meal.

5 TSIMISKI STREET 7 NAVARINOU SQUARE


(see p. 19) This place is traditionally
considered as a student area
6 AGIA SOFIA SQUARE and one of the alternative
This beautiful square, adorned places in town. Cafés, bars
with greenery, has been full of atmosphere, tavernas,
shaped after the 1890 fire ouzo restaurants, cinema
and encompasses the grounds theatres and concert halls
of Agia Sofia church (see p. 9) are to be found around the
and sections of Ermou Street square that faces the Palace
(up to Kar. Dil Street) as well of Galerius, and also in the
as Agias Sofias Street (up to nearby streets (Gounari
Egnatia Street). Agias Sofias pedestrian zone, Gonata,
St. is pedestrianised up to Vyronos, Isavron, I. Michail,
Tsimiski Street. Halfway the Theochari Streets). Visit also
street there is a monument the book shops in the area
in memory of the Genocide of as well as other interesting
Pontic Greeks (2006, El. Valvi); places selling records,
several buildings around it antiques, clothes etc. In
are also very interesting, such the square’s centre there is
as the 1925 Longos Building a fountain adorned by the
(the Red House) located at sculpture titled “The whistling
the corner of Ermou and Agias child” and a small playground.
Sofias streets, and the 1924 Notice the perspective from
Chatzidimitriou Building (at the Gounari Street towards
point where Ermou and Kar. Dil Kamara and Rotunda and also
Streets meet). The square is towards the sea. Make a point
also the location where Pavlou of visiting the neighbouring
28 Mela and Iktinou (pedestrian church of Nea (or Megali)
zone) Streets begin; along Panagia (at the intersection
with the adjacent Zefxidos of Gounari and Mitropoleos
Street they are a hot spot area Streets) dating back to 1727.

25 26

25.
The Red
House and the
monument
of the Pontic
Greeks
Genocide on
Agia Sofia Sq.
26.
A detail from
the Palace of
Galerius.
27.
A plan of the
Palace of
Galerius and
its environs.
8 P
 ALACE OF GALERIUS impressive marble decorative

MUSEUM AREA
HISTORIC CENTRE (2)
3rd walk:
arch with Galerius’ bust on
It is an open-air archaeological display at the Archaeological
museum located in the heart Museum (see p. 70).
of town. Its construction
began in the late 3rd – early 8.2 Colonnaded yard.
4th c. by Galerius and is part There were rooms on
of the Galerian Complex its three sides. Stoas with
(area: 150,000 m2) which tessellated floors isolated
included the Hippodrome, the atrium from other
the Arch or Kamara (see p. constructions.
37) and Rotunda (see p. 10),
as well as other buildings 8.3 Tank.
to suit various purposes, This two-storeyed building
now situated under modern was used as a cistern for
structures. Until its destruction collecting water from the roofs
in the 7th c., other emperors of the palace and the Basilica.
stayed here besides Galerius,
(such as Theodosios I and 8.4 Basilica.
others). It is considered as one
of the major monuments of This monumental building
the Late Antiquity, nationwide. too was used as an official
audience hall. The outstanding
tessellated floors in the arcade
MUST SEE: are particularly interesting.
8.1 Octagon. 8.5 Bath house.
This was a throne and Located next to Basilica, the
audience hall with a double- construction included rooms
apsed anteroom and an for bathing with cold, tepid and
octagonal shape. It boasts an hot water and an entrance hall
exceptional interior decoration with a fountain.
and elaborate floors. It used
8.6 Hippodrome. 29
to communicate with the sea
via a propylaeum and a large Fragments of the construction
peristyle, part of which is the remain under the blocks of

27
8.8
8.7
8.6
7 8.2
8.3

8.5 8.4

8.1
flats facing the adjacent the 1st until the 4th c. AD.
3rd walk:
HISTORIC CENTRE (2)
MUSEUM AREA
Ippodromiou square. This was There are references connecting
a 450 m. long and a 95 m. this place with the martyrdom
wide structure and it used to of Agios Dimitrios, the city’s
be the centre of social activity patron saint.
for citizens until 390 AD,
when emperor Theodosius 9 THREE CHURCHES
ordered the massacre of
7,000 Thessalonians there; On the south side of Egnatia
the event led to the close- Street, between K. Palaiologou
down of the Hippodrome. It is St. (to the west) and Agapinou
worth visiting the Thessaloniki St. (to the east) there are three
History Centre, situated in the interesting churches at a short
square’s south side as well as distance from each other that
the remarkable 18th c. Agios are definitely worth visiting.
Antonios church in Margariti
street nearby.
MUST SEE:
8.7 Arched Hall. 9.1 Panagouda Church
It lies at the intersection (Panagia Gorgoepikoos
of Gounari and Svolou streets. – Our Lady Quick to Hear)-
This was a place with heating also called the Church of Mikri
installations for holding Panagia. This building (1818)
symposia and ceremonies. was erected on the spot of an
It had a direct access to older church destroyed by fire
the imperial box in the in 1789, and it was located at
Hippodrome. the heart of the city’s Greek
8.8 Theatre - stadium
quarters during the Turkish
Occupation. According to 12th
in Apellou Street. - 14th c. historical references,
The remains of a building this used to be the location
have been located at 5 & of the Monastery of Panagia
30 7 Apellou St., and they are Gorgoepikoos and it is still
considered to have been part known by that name. Next
of the theatre-stadium of the to it you will see the historic
town, which was in use from neoclassical building of the

28

28.
The
Macedonian
Museum of
Contemporary
Art.
29.
View of the
Thessaloniki
International
Trade Fair
facilities.
30.
The OTE Tower
commanding
the city.
Greek Highschool (1893). commands of the modern

MUSEUM AREA
HISTORIC CENTRE (2)
3rd walk:
times; they were planned
9.2 The Transfiguration by major Greek architects
of Christ Church such as A. Konstantinidis, N.
(see p. 10) Valsamakis, I. Rizos, P. Tsolakis,
D. Kapsampelis, A. Zannos
9.3 The Presentation etc. Moreover, the TIF grounds
of the Lord Church. house two modern convention
centres, namely Ioannis
It was built in 1840, on the Vellidis offering seating for
spot where a chapel had been 2,100 and Nikolaos Germanos
constructed in 1543 dedicated with seating for 400. You
to Saint Joel. Today only the can enter through the gate
chapel’s holy doors still remain, on the YMCA square, the one
depicting the Annunciation on Angelaki street or through
(according to the Cretan the two gates on Egnatia
School of Art). The church lies street (for TIF, see p. 108).
on the same level as Egnatia
Street during the Byzantine
times. The icon screen depicts MUST SEE:
the Annunciation and dates
10.1 Macedonian Museum
back to 1843; the five larger
icons were crafted in 1943. of Contemporary Art.
It was established in 1979
and it is the first museum of
10 THESSALONIKI modern art in Greece. Since
INTERNATIONAL 2001, it has been housed in a
FAIR (TIF) building that covers a 4,000m2
It was inaugurated in 1926 area. In the courtyard there
in nearby Pedio Areos; in 1940 are modern sculptures, such
though, increasing needs led as “Umbrellas”, a construction
to its relocation in today’s of moveable parts with water.
facilities; in 1951 it assumed (1995, G. Zongolopoulos,
its activities after a break see also p. 51); there are also 31
during the war. During the roman graves and a road on
50’s and 60’s many pavilions display dating to the 2nd – 3rd
were built, based on the c. AD (for museum collections

29 30
and exhibits, see p. 76). taken place in it over the years.
3rd walk:
HISTORIC CENTRE (2)
MUSEUM AREA
It is a round edifice with a
10.2 OTE [Hellenic seating for 4,800, and it used
Telecommunications to be the largest indoor sports
Organisation] Tower. arena in Greece until 1985.
Today, it is the home ground of
It was built in 1969 to plans Aris basketball team.
by architect Al. Anastasiadis,
as the Organisation’s 10.4 Angelaki Street.
exhibition pavilion, and for
covering the city’s telecom It runs along T.I.F.’s west
needs. It dominates against side and it is lined with cafés
the city’s horizon as it reaches and bars that are particularly
a 70-metre height – including popular with students at the
the antenna. Its storeys house adjacent University campus.
radio stations and at a higher This is also were several
level there is a caffé with a radio stations have their main
rotating floor (completes a offices as well as ERT3 - the
revolution in 70 min.), where state-owned TV station. At
the city and seafront views the location where Angelaki
are amazing. At a very short and Egnatia Streets cross
distance lies the Radio (Syntrivaniou sq, see p. 37)
Museum which is worth your you will notice the impressive
visit (see the exhibits on p. 78). 18-metre tall sculpture, (1966,
G. Zongolopoulos).
10.3 Alexandreio
Melathron. 11 3rd ARMY CORPS
Also known as Palais des It is outlined by 3rd
Sports, this sports arena is Septemvriou, Stratou,
located on the NE side of the Kaftanzoglou and Lampraki
Thessaloniki International Fair Streets and it covers part of
grounds. Constructed in 1966, the former Pedio Areos. The
32 it has played an active part main building (Headquarters)
in Thessaloniki’s history ever in Stratou Ave. was built in
since, as major sporting, art the years 1900 – 1902 by
as well as political events have the Italian architect V. Poselli

31

31.
Papafeio
Orphanage
after
which the
surrounding
area was
named.
32. Exterior
view of
Alexandreio
Melathron
Sports Arena
(aka Palais
des Sports
or Nick Galis
Hall).
to be used as the Turkish and died in Malta (former

MUSEUM AREA
HISTORIC CENTRE (2)
3rd walk:
army barracks. In 1916 - name: Meliti). This is a typical
1917 it served for several classical style building with
months as the seat of the three floors and a propulaeum
temporary “Government of in the main entrance. It served
National Defence” led by El. as a male boarding school and
Venizelos. The War Museum it was also used as military
is housed in a building, barracks and hospital. It is
designed by V. Poselli during surrounded by impressive
the same period, in Lampraki gardens with a small church
Street, (see p. – for museum built there of late.
exhibits). Under the west YFANET textile factory.
side of 3rd Septemvriou Ave. Located at a short distance
paved surface there are from Papafeio Orphanage,
visible remains of a cemetery the factory covered an area of
basilica (4th -7th c.) as well as 4,000 m2 and used to be one
of a grave of a Christian martyr. of the largest textile units in
Macedonia from 1926 until
12 PAPAFI AREA 1964 when it was closed down
and deserted. Plans are made
It extends east of the grounds to transfer here the State
of the 3rd Army Corps and it Museum of Contemporary Art
was named after Papafeio (see p. 75). Until this is done,
Orphanage that once dominated locals use the place as a venue
the area. for various events and there is
also a library, a reading room
MUST SEE: and a café. At a short distance
you can visit one of the very
O Melitefs Papafeio few remaining macedonian
Orphanage (33, Papafi and tombs (3rd c. BC) that were
Katsimidou Sts.). Construction unearthed in the town at the
was completed in 1903 corner of Papanastasiou and
(to plans by Xen. Paionidis), Omirou Sts., as well as the 33
after a bequest made by remarkable 1891 neoclassical
a Thessalonian called I. Papafis edifice of Ippokrateio Hospital
(1792 – 1866) who lived at 49, Konstantinoupoleos St.

32
4th walk:
HISTORIC CENTRE (3)
1 EGNATIA STREET Antigonidon Street is indeed
a bustling one! It was named
This central avenue has
5 6 who7 opened a hotel there 8
after G. Colombo, an Italian
ASVESTOCHORI
CHORTIATI
been there practically since
Thessaloniki’s founding, in the early 20th century. This
as it is a section of the road is the location of Kolomvou
SIAS
constructed by the Romans Archway (31, Egnatia St.)
IAS

KIFIS
in the 2nd c. BC, and connected
ON

which has become a leisure


OS

EOS
GEN
NIS
Dyrrhachium (Durrës, in hub with cafés, bars and
SA

S
U ANA TIA
NE
VE
TH
YR
AS modern day Albania) with restaurants inside.
OU
S
A RIA
N
K AVALA
S Constantinople. It starts at
AS Dimokratia square (see p. 58) 1.2 Hamza Bey Mosque.
AK
SALIAS
CHORTIA
TI
RO
PO
LE
and ends at the TIF grounds It was built in 1467 by the
YRIAKIS AGIA KYRIAKI
OS
(see p. 31) and the Aristotle daughter of Hamza Bey, the
University of Thessaloniki, FOREST
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1.3 Plateia Dikastirion ottoman bath house, a multi-

HISTORIC CENTRE (3)


4th walk:
[Court house square]. domed construction with
separate rooms for males and
A spacious green square
females, structured along two
situated towards the end
parallel ways. It is divided in
of Aristotelous Street.
three sections (cold, tepid
The Hébrard plans placed
and hot areas) and there is
construction of the Court
also a vaulted tank for heating
House as well as of other
9 on this location
state buildings 10 11
water. It is widely known as the
Paradise Baths and it went by
12
(to create a civic centre);
that name until 1968. Right next
in 1966, however, excavations
to it there is a roman platform
on the spot revealed the
that is indicative of the ground
Ancient Roman Forum and
level 2000 years ago.
the process was halted. In
the centre of the square stands 1.6 Roman (Ancient) Forum
the imposing bust of Eleftherios During the roman period,
Venizelos (1977, G. Pappas), this 2-hectare area used to be
who remained a prime minister the social and religious centre
of Greece for more than 12 of the city. Construction was
years during the period 1910 – completed in two phases
U) 1932. There are small copper (in the mid-2nd and mid-
workshops in the adjacent 3rd centuries AD) and it was
Chalkeon and Kleisouras gradually abandoned after the
Streets, and their business has 7th century. The NW section
been an ongoing tradition since of the archaeological site is
the byzantine period. covered by a large rectangular
1.4 Panagia [Virgin Mary] square [Α] with traces of
Chalkeon. marble paving. In the S section
of the square lies the largest
(see p. 9) part of the double underground
Cryptoporticus [covered
1.5 Bey Hamami.
passageway] [Β] which was
It lies on the SE side of most probably used as a public 35
Plateia Dikastirion. This impressive storehouse. On one of its walls
edifice was built in 1444 and a valuable early Christian mural IPPO

it is the country’s largest was uncovered and this shows


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that the place had been used at the south entrance to the
4th walk:
HISTORIC CENTRE (3)
by Christians as well, during forum (from Egnatia Street);
the late Roman period. South in 1864 the pillars were
of the passageway there removed and escorted to their
were shops dating from the present location at the Louvre
1st until the 13th century; the Museum (Paris) by E. Miller.
underground Museum of the
Roman Forum (see p. 71) was 1.7 Bit-Pazar.
built there as an extension. An edifice with lots of
A 2nd - 4th c. AD Odeon [C] atmosphere, Bit Pazar (meaning
was found behind the well- Small Market place) is a spot
preserved eastern stoa. It where the town’s antique shops
has been restored and it is now are to be found. Its ground level
used as a venue for cultural was constructed in 1930 and
events. A mint and an archive higher floors were added in the
office are right next to it. In the 1960s. Facing the inner square
SE side, a round bath house and lining the surrounding
[D] was unearthed which has streets namely Tositsa (where
been in use since the 1st c. BC. the main entrance is), Venizelou
Parts of a colonnade, mosaic and Olympou, there are many
floors, marble stairs, a section second-hand shops, antique
of a stone-paved street, sewer dealers’ and furniture shops.
pipes, silver coins, stone and In recent years the variety of
marble sculptures were all restaurants, ouzo tavernas
found in this archaeological and café-bars has made it a
site. The forum is also where hot spot particularly among
the “Enchanted Ones” (las students. Within a short
Incantadas) were discovered, distance (at 35, Syngrou
a two-storeyed colonnaded St.) you will see the Jewish
archway with Corinthian-order Monastirioton Synagogue
columns and pillars four of the only one to have survived
which have survived. They are the 2nd World War.
decorated with figures in relief
in their interior as well as their 1.8 Experimental School.
36
exterior side (“Stoa of the It was built following the
Statuettes”). It is estimated plans of D. Pikionis, a leading
that the Stoa’s location was Greek architect, from 1936 until

34 35

34.
The renovated
Roman Forum
Odeon.
35.
The Arch
of Galerius
(Kamara)
decorated with
relief carvings.
36.
The fountain
[Syntrivani]
in the square
named after it.
1970. It combines elements there is also a bookshop and

HISTORIC CENTRE (3)


4th walk:
of modern and traditional an exhibition area.
Macedonian architecture with
1.12 Galerius Arch (Kamara).
references to the style of the
Mount Athos monasteries. One of the town’s major
landmarks, this arch is
1.9 Acheiropoiitos church. the usual rendezvous place
(see p. 9) for locals. It was built in
295-305 AD followingthe
1.10 Agios [Saint] incontestable victory of
Athanasios church. Galerius over the Persians
This timber-roofed church and it was a monumental
is located in the SE side arch on the north side of his
of Acheiropoiitos church. palatial complex (see p. 28).
It was built in 1818 as a three- Its west section still stands
aisled basilica and until 1880 and you can see embossed
there were ruins of an ancient depictions of Galerius’ military
structure in the churchyard. successes. It is connected
It is now a parish church. to Rotunda via a wide
pedestrian way. Right next to it
1.11 Nedelkou Building. lies Panagia Dexia church
(109, Egnatia st.). This 1909 (1950s), built on the location
building is a two-storeyed of a postbyzantine church.
piece of fine architecture (Xen. In it there is a rare icon of
Paionidis). In the past, the Panagia (Virgin Mary) holding
ground floor housed shops little Jesus on her right side.
and the 1st floor was the 1.13 Rotunda.
house of the Nedelkou family. (see p. 10)
It combines renaissance,
baroque, neoclassical and art- 1.14 Agios [Saint]
nouveau elements and has an Panteleimon
interesting interior decoration. (see p. 11)
Today it houses the Mount
Athos Centre where the stay 1.15 Plateia Syntrivaniou
[Fountain Square]. 37
permits are issued to those
who wish to visit the Mount It was named after the marble
Athos monasteries (see p. 92); fountain with the obelisk, located

36
at the centre of this transport Theology and Education and
4th walk:
HISTORIC CENTRE (3)
hub. It was built in 1866 the two buildings of the Main
by Sultan Hamid as a gift Library; all the above form
to the city and it was at that a major ensemble of modern
time situated outside the architecture. Today there
east walls (Cassander’s Gate). are over 100,000 enrolled
During the Interwar Period a students (the biggest campus
large part of it was removed in Greece) who add verve
to make Egnatia Street wider; and youthfulness to the city.
it was restored to its original
shape in 1977. MUST SEE:
2.1 Old Building of the
2 ARISTOTLE Faculty of Philosophy.
UNIVERSITY OF This impressive construction
THESSALONIKI (AUTH). took place in 1887, designed
This is the first University by V. Poselli. In 1908, two
Campus in Greece (covering two-storey side wings were
a 50 hectare area) to have added and in 1927 the then
been built following complete newly established University
architectural plans. It was of Thessaloniki (1925) was
planned to be constructed moved here from its former
on the location of the old seat in Allatini Villa (see p.
Jewish cemetery (see p. 61), 54). A number of schools of
according to the Hébrard the Faculty of Philosophy of
committee plan; construction the AUTh are housed in this
finally began in 1938, yet the building today.
works were interrupted during
the war and resumed in the 2.2 Museums of the A.U.Th.
1950s. Since then, several Plaster casts of ancient
buildings were erected on sculptures and copies of
these grounds by leading Greek miniature art, murals dating
architects following mostly the from the Minoan up to the
38 Modernist design, such as the Byzantine period as well as
main Administration Buildings Byzantine icons are all on
as well as those built for the display at the Cast Museum.
Schools of Chemistry, Law, The Geology & Paleontology

37 38
37.
The grand
building of
the Faculty of
Philosophy,
Aristotle
University of
Thessaloniki.
38.
View of the
Aristotle
University of
Thessaloniki
campus area.
39.
The neoclassical
building of
Dioikitirio
[Government
House].
Museum houses exhibits Ilias and Kameniatou Streets.

HISTORIC CENTRE (3)


4th walk:
of human skulls, known In recent decades, emigrants
worldwide to have been found settled in Kassandrou Street
in the area of Axios river and the neighbouring area,
(aged 9.5 million years) and mostly coming from Eastern
in the Petralona Cave (see p. Europe, and opened shops and
92), aged approx. 200,000 – small restaurants, adding a
400,000 years. Other similar multinational colour to the area.
places are the Biblical, MUST SEE:
Folk Art, and Criminology
3.1 Dioikitirio.
Museums, noteworthy theatre,
Modern Greek literature and It was built in 1891 by
Education Academy archives, architect V. Poselli to be used
and also collections of as the ottoman Administration
manuscripts, books etc. House [Konaki] of the city.
The style is neoclassical
2.3 Observatory. with renaissance features
One of the finest buildings and originally it was a three-
of the A.U.Th. complex is this storey building (the fourth
one, constructed in 1954 to floor was added in 1955).
plans by I. Triantafyllides; its Today it houses the Ministry
circular shape bears a direct of Macedonia-Thrace where
reference to Rotunda. protest marches usually
wind up. In 1990, following
excavations which took place
3 AGIOU DIMITRIOU in the square in front of
STREET Dioikitirio, fragments of roman,
This large road in the early-christian, byzantine
north section of the historic and ottoman houses were
centre is one of the oldest unearthed; this shows that
in the city. There are many the area has always been
a beautiful block of flats the administrative centre
dating to the Interwar Period of the city.
in the surrounding area, that 39
have survived the postwar 3.2 Agios Dimitrios [Saint
increased building activities, Demetrius]
particularly on Pasteur, Profitis (see p. 11)

39
Yeni Hamam (Aigli). 3.6 Panagia Lagoudiani

4th walk:
HISTORIC CENTRE (3)
3.3
It was built in 1531 on the Church (Virgin Mary Guiding
site of a roman or byzantine All Men).
bath. Only 1/3 of the building This small three-aisled
remains, and the two domed Byzantine basilica is located
halls were joined into one in the on the outskirts of Ano Poli.
20th c., given that until 1944-45 This 14th c. monastery
it was used as a bathing place katholikon [main church]
for males and females. It is took its current shape in the
known as Aigli, the name it had 19th c. It was named after
when it was a cinema and later Lagoudatos, the man who
a multi-purpose hall. founded it, or –according
to another story- after a hare
3.4 Alaca Imaret.
[Lagos in Greek – compare
It was built in 1484, according Lagos with Lagoudiani] who
to an inscription located above led to the finding of the icon
the main entrance. Named after of Panagia. Odigitria (Virgin
a poorhouse (imaret in turkish) Mary Guiding All Men) as
located on the grounds, it well as Saint Demetrius are
featured a minaret adorned with honoured as patron saints
multi-coloured (alaca in turkish) of the city.
stones, the only remaining part
of which is the base. Surrounded 3.7 Ataturk Museum.
by tall blocks of flats in recent
years, this imposing building It is adjacent to the building
is an example of symmetric, of the Turkish consulate (75, Ap.
skilled masonry and includes Pavlou St.). This three-storey
a central hall with two rounded residence was built in the late
domes and an arcade covered 19th c. and it was the house
with five cupolas. Occasionally, of Kemal Ataturk, born
it becomes the venue for in Thessaloniki (1880? - 1938).
exhibitions and cultural events. In the yard, you will see
a pomegranate tree his father
40 3.5 Profitis Ilias [Prophet had planted there. It is a building
Elijah] Church now painted in its original colour
(see p. 12) - pink – and houses

40 41

40 & 41.
Kemal Atatϋrk’s
house (left)
is a museum
nowadays and
houses an
atmospheric
café (right).
42.
Kaftanzogleio
Stadium is the
largest one in
the city.
43.
Teloglion
Foundation
of Art.
HISTORIC CENTRE (3)
4th walk:
42

a small museum dedicated 3.9 Kaftanzogleio Stadium.


to the founder of the modern
Turkish state. To visit it you need It was built in 1960, following
an identity card or passport a donation by L. Kaftanzoglou,
a member of a very old family
(for museum exhibits, see p. 74).
of Thessaloniki; until 1982
3.8 Teloglion Foundation this used to be the largest
of Art. stadium in the country in terms
of capacity. It is the home
Built on elevated ground in ground of Iraklis team which
the north side of the Campus, was founded in 1908 – the
it is a modern building complex city’s oldest football team!
covering a 3,200 m area and
2
This stadium was one
it was inaugurated in 1998. of the official sports fields
There are spatious exhibition for the Athens Olympic Games
areas, an amphitheatre, in 2004 and it is often
a library – reading room, used for domestic and
as well as rooms for research international sports events.
and educational programmes, The Olympic Museum of
a shop and a café-restaurant Thessaloniki is located within
(for the foundation’s collections a short distance, where Agiou 41
see p. 76). Thessaloniki’s Dimitriou and 3rd Septemvriou
National Swimming Pool Streets cross (see museum
is located east of Teloglion. exhibits on p. 78).

43
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5th walk:
OU

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42
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Thessaloniki’s Old NTown is converts to Islam who secretly


.

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DAM

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KOUNTO theAVEROFarea in between the city many refugees settled in the


S

walls (to the north and east) area. Despite the construction
and Olympiados Street (to of newer buildings and the
the south), and has had the opening up of new streets in
luck to remain untouched by recent decades, it has kept
44. the 1917 great fire. It was its original town planning, to
The bust virtually uninhabited until a large extent, with narrow
of Vasilis the mid-15th century, when alleys and scant squares, as
Tsitsanis has it was conquered by the well as its original architectural
been placed Ottomans who selected it for features, particularly in the
in the square settlement on account of its west and east part of the town.
named after fine climate, panoramic views This particular atmosphere has
the composer, and strategic position. The lured intellects, artists
in Ano Poli. two and three-storey houses and students who chose it
45. bear mixed Macedonian for settlement in recent years.
One of the and Ottoman architectural
refugee elements (sachnisia) [Şahniş 
houses built in turkish]; there are also 1 AGIA AIKATERINI
along the line residences with neoclassical [SAINT CATHERINE]
of the city walls and eclectic style motifs CHURCH
(Ano Poli). where the Dönmeh lived, i.e. (see p. 12)
2 TSINARI is the Tϋrbe (Tomb) of Musha

ANO POLI (OLD TOWN)


5th walk:
Baba (1543), one of the late
This area was named after ottoman monuments
the plane tree which was of Thessaloniki, shaped
planted there in the early 20th as an octagon with decorative
c. (çınar is turkish for plane pointed frames on windows
tree). You can reach it through and a once lead-covered dome.
Al. Papadopoulou Street, one
of Ano Poli’s hallmark areas 4 ROMFEI SQUARE
as are Tsamadou, Sachtouri
and Isminis Streets. In Isminis This is Ano Poli’s central
Street you will find the House square. To reach it, take
of Pontian Greeks. This is Theofilou Street where
Ano Poli’s downtown spot the neoclassical building
and people who want to reach housing the Vice-Mayor’s
the neighbouring Sykies office for Culture is located.
area go through here. In the In the square, you will see a
centre, there is an ottoman Byzantine bath-house known
fountain with a marble Roman as Koule Kafe (see p. 12); the
sarcophagus; this is also entire area has been named
where you will find the oldest after it. On the NE side of the
restaurant in town (open since square (7, Krispou st.) you
1885), a café and small shops. will notice the architectural
masterpiece of a 19th c.
3 TERPSITHEA SQUARE neoclassical building which
houses the municipal Library of
Take a good look at the Ano Poli. On Theotokopoulou
remarkable listed buildings and Street, near the square lies
the more recent ones as you the 14th c. Byzantine church
walk along Pileos Street and of the Taxiarchs [Archangels]
head for Terpsithea Square. which used to be a monastery
The buildings surrounding katholikon [main church] and
the square are amazing and has undergone later changes.
offer a wonderful view of the
town and the seafront; in the 43
centre there is a playground 5 HOSIOS [VENERABLE]
and a small open-air theatre. DAVID Church
Another impressive monument (Moni Latomou, see p. 13)

44 45
6 TSITSANI SQUARE adjoining them – as far back as
5th walk:
ANO POLI (OLD TOWN)
the early 1920’s. Similar houses
This small square with beautiful, can be seen also on the eastern
well-tended houses is located and western walls.
in between Moni Vlatadon and
Hosios David where you can go 8 MONI VLATADON
if you take Timotheou Street
(notice the ottoman fountain) (see p. 13)
and Dimitriou Poliorkitou Street.
In the square centre you will see 9 PORTARA
the bust of V. Tsitsanis (1915 –
1984) a leading Greek popular This is one of the two main
composer who lived and worked gates (the other one is Eski
in the town during World War II. Delik) on the northern city
walls. Near the gates, the
construction of the walls was
7 EPTAPYRGIOU STREET done particularly carefully and
many spots were decorated
This is one of the most with ceramics, inscriptions etc
interesting roads of Ano Poli which can be seen best from
quarter. It follows the interior Polydorou Street. This location
line of the northern city walls is a very busy road junction and
which used to be the ramparts you will find tourist shops and
of the Acropolis (see also p. – tavernas nearby.
for the city walls). It is worth
taking a walk from the corner 10 ACROPOLIS –
of Eptapyrgiou and Palamidiou EPTAPYRGIO
Streets (to the west) where (YEDI KULE)
the 3rd Gate is - also known
This impressive fortified area
as “Eski Delik” – and head is situated on the NE end
for the main Gate. Besides the of the city walls, within the
interesting traditional buildings acropolis - one of the few
and the deserted Zihne Camii remaining citadels that are
44 [Mosque] (1902) you will pass still populated worldwide. To
by the old refugee houses called get there from Portara, follow
“kastroplikta”; these were built Polydorou Street, alongside the
along the line of the city walls or northern walls and then take

46 47

46.
Portara,
a gate in
Thessaloniki’s
northern walls.
47.
Eptapyrgio
(Yedi Koule)
and part of
the eastern
city walls.
48.
Trigoniou
Tower area
is popular to
residents and
visitors alike.
Gialourou and Erasmou Streets. a blanket of plane trees, where

ANO POLI (OLD TOWN)


5th walk:
Eptapyrgio was built in the 12th you will see Agioi Anargyroi
c., presumably on an older 9th c. church and small, traditional
fortress and took this name as caffés and restaurants. This is
at first there were seven towers the location of the double gate
there. The current structure of Anna Palaiologina (the one
includes ten towers and a small lying west is also called Gate of
street that goes around it. The Agioi Anargyroi), constructed by
north side used to be a part the Byzantine empress in 1355,
of the city’s Early Christian during her stay in the city.
walls, whereas the towers
on the south side were added 12 TRIGONIOU TOWER
during the Byzantine period. In
1431, the Ottoman Turks made Also known as Alyseos [Chain]
certain modifications to them, Tower, this building stands
according to an inscription on the spot where the north
placed above the entrance. and east walls meet. It was
Circa 1890 the construction built in the 16th c. possibly in
was changed in order to house the place of an earlier tower
long-term convicts and newer dating to the Venetian period;
buildings were added on the White Tower (see p. 24),
the inside as well as on the Vardariou Tower (see p. 59)
outside area. In 1989, the and Trigoniou Tower formed
prison, known by its Turkish part of the construction works
name – Yedi Kule, was housed completed by the Turks for the
elsewhere and the fortress fortification of Thessaloniki.
became a monument open to Known as Kastra [meaning
visitors. It is well worth crossing Towers], this is a popular
the ring dirt road of the fortress sightseeing area for locals and
where an early Christian cistern visitors alike since the view of
remains as well as parts of the eastern walls as well as of
an early Christian basilica - the entire city is breathtaking
the spot affords a lovely view! from this location.

11 PALAIOLOGINA’S GATE 13 MAIANDROUPOLEOS 45


STREET
To reach Trigoniou Tower, you
will go past the picturesque Central Maiandroupoleos
Agioi Anargyroi square, under Street and El. Zografou Street

48
connect Agios Pavlos area other sources). It is a two-
5th walk:
ANO POLI (OLD TOWN)
and Agiou Dimitriou Street. storey, oblong building with
From here you will enjoy the four wings on the edges and
wonderful view of the external shares the same architectural
side of the city’s eastern style with the edifices of the
walls, which remain in an 3rd Army Corps (see p. 32),
impressively good condition the Customs House (see p.
(see p. 14 for the city walls). 18) and the Administration
House [Dioikitirio] (see p. 39),
with pronounced classicist and
14 GARDENS baroque elements. In 1984,
OF THE PASHA the central building and the
They were built in 1904 by surrounding area became a
an unknown architect and listed monument.
are the only specimen of
eccentric architecture in town.
They cover a 1000 m2 area, 16 EVANGELISTRIA
CEMETERY
the decorations are quite
peculiar and they include an Evangelistria is a privileged
art nouveau fountain which is area in the city centre, thanks
no longer functional. At the far to its low buildings and
end lies Agios Pavlos [Saint ample green spaces. This
Paul] church in the area is the location of the city’s
by the same name. According oldest Christian cemetery
to the legend it was named created in 1875 by the
after the fountain where Charity Brotherhood; some
Apostle Paul drank water of the greatest personalities
during his stay in town. of Thessaloniki were buried
here. On the opposite side
(on El. Zografou Street) you
15 AGIOS DIMITRIOS will see the Armenian and
HOSPITAL Protestant cemetery as well as
Originally a Municipal Hospital, the machine works / foundry
it was most probably built in of E. Axylithiotis, which closed
46 1902-3 and the architectural down in 1990 and is now a
plans appear to have been historic monument, used as a
signed by Xen. Paionidis venue for cultural events. The
(or by V. Poselli according to New Golden Gate used to be at

49

49.
Agios Nikolaos
Orphanos
church, amid
serene green
surroundings.
50. The
art-nouveau
style fountain
in the Gardens
of Pasha.
51.
Panoramic
view of
Thessaloniki
and its
environs from
Trigoniou
Tower.
ANO POLI (OLD TOWN)
5th walk:
50

the corner of Agiou Dimitriou picturesque Kallitheas Square


and Olympiados Streets and it (with a small playground) in
was one of the central gates of Ano Poli, where major streets
the eastern walls which were begin, such as Irodotou,
demolished to make way for Andokidou and Gorgous.
the opening up of two roads The last street will lead
(very few segments remain). you out of the city walls.
Opposite the cemetery you will The Children’s Museum of
spot the neoclassical building Thessaloniki (see p. 79) was
of G. Gennimatas hospital. housed in one of the street’s
traditional buildings until 2009.
17 AGIOS NIKOLAOS
[SAINT NICHOLAS]
ORPHANOS 19 SEICH SOU
(CEDAR HILL)
(see p. 14)
The Seich Sou forest (the
18 KALLITHEAS SQUARE spring of the Sheikh) or Cedar 47
Hill or Thousand Trees is
Take Olympiados and Ap. the biggest forested area
Pavlou Streets to reach the bordering the city, covering

51
a 3,000 hectare area. Only this open-air theatre
5th walk:
ANO POLI (OLD TOWN)
a small section of the old oak (with seating for 4,000)
forest remains in Kouri area is a summer venue for great
as a result of the exploitation concerts given by Greek and
that occurred during the foreign artists, as well as
Byzantine period. Today’s other cultural events.
landscape is the result of
systematic reforestation that 19.3 Theatre of the Earth.
took place in the 1930’s. [Theatro Gis] This impressive
Despite the spreading of open-air theatre (with a
the adjacent suburbs and seating for 4,300 spectators)
the 1997 big fire, it remains is located in the area of
a particularly popular Triandria (north of Kaftanzoglio
destination for Thessalonians Stadium, see p. 41). It was
who come here to enjoy inaugurated in 1997 in view
hiking, mountain biking and of that year’s celebrations for
other sports, picnicking or just Thessaloniki as the European
to drink in the lovely view. Capital of Culture. It is
considered as one of the best
MUST SEE: venues for cultural events
in Greece.
19.1 The Zoo.
You will find it in the section How to get there: Take
that lies south of the city’s the bus no. 24 on Eleftherias
ringroad. It covers a 5.8-hectare sq. stop. The terminus is
area and is home to dozens at the Zoo’s car park.
of mammal and bird species
of Greek wild fauna. Visit also 20 SYKEES
the Museum of Natural History
(opened in 1994) and This beautiful area is to be
the House of Reptiles (opened found NW of Ano Poli, outside
in 2000). the city walls. Despite the
48 rising trend in house-building
19.2 Forest Theatre. in recent decades, it is still
[Theatro Dasous]. Within dotted with detached houses
a short distance from the Zoo, dating to the Interwar Period.

52

52.
The zoo
entrance in
Seich Sou
forest.
53.
View over
Agios Pavlos
district from
the Seich Sou
forest.
54.
Seich Sou
is very popular
with locals
who enjoy
coming for
a walk, for
leisure and
relaxing.
ANO POLI (OLD TOWN)
5th walk:
53

The quarter was created mainly church, where the view of the
to provide housing for the entire city is amazing. In the
refugees who settled there neighbouring Elpidos Street
in the early 20th c.; however towards the city walls you will
traces of settlements exist see a group of refugee houses
which date as far back as the – the area is in the process of
2nd c. AD. In the lush greenery being changed into a “Cultural
of the Municipal Grove there Neighbourhood”.
is a Municipal Theatre, where
major cultural events are held
during the summer months, How to get there: To
and an open-air cinema. reach Sykees, you can either
Further south, on a low hill, you walk from Ano Poli or take 49
will see the imposing church the bus no. 23 (terminus at
of Agioi Theodoroi, built on Eleftherias sq.) and get off at
ruins of a 7th c. Byzantine Agios Charalampos stop.

54
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50 6th walk:
R
I

SA
OL

STRAVONOS SIFILINON

SOURMENON
VIS NIKO
RA

CHEN
KA
PE

KA

TRAP
TA
NI
DI

KOTYORON
NAVARINOU

NEA PARALIA – VASILISSIS OLGAS AVENUE


KA KOMNI
THEMISTOK

KOLCHIDAS
LY
VA KALAMARIA
TOS
KERASOUN POULANTZ
AK
LI SOFOULI

AVDELA TRIPO
KALIDOU

KROMNIS
BALA

APETROU
The area started to grow 1960’s onwards it evolved PAP
DALIPI

U
PAPAGO

in the late 19th c., after the into a typical urban area.
demolition of the eastern
city walls and the adoption
of the tramway (horse-drawn 1 NEA (ANATOLIKI)
PARALIA [NEW (EAST)
in 1893 and power-driven SEAFRONT]
PL
A ST

in 1907). Its first name


IR
A

KARAMPOURNAKI
was Exoches [meaning It took its present shape in
55. Countryside], on account of the 1960s. It stretches along
The statue its rural character, or the Villas Megalou Alexandrou Ave. from
of Alexander quarter, as luxury residencies the White Tower (see p. 24)
the Great on with large gardens began all the way to the Thessaloniki
horseback to emerge following the Concert Hall and it is one of the
stands out in the European standards of the most popular parts of the town
city’s waterfront time. Contrary to the way life for exercising, strolling and other
area. used to be within the city forms of leisure. Thessalonians
56. walls, various nationalities can be seen here 24 hours
Umbrellas, a namely Greeks, Turks and a day, particularly on weekends.
renowned work Jews coexisted in this area, Furthermore, its orientation
of art by N. with wealth as their sole offers a fascinating view of the
Zongolopoulos, standard in life. From the Thermaic (Thermaikos) Gulf
in the new 1930’s the area gradually and Mount Olympus, especially
seafront area. fell into decline and from the during the sunset.
MUST SEE: Greece. It is also the regular

NEA PARALIA – VASILISSIS OLGAS AVENUE


6th walk:
1.1 Monument choice of stay for the prime
of Alexander the Great. minister and ministers while
attending the Thessaloniki
This monumental sculptural International Trade Fair; among
synthesis (E. Moustakas, 1974) its clientele are also many
commands the waterfront Greek and foreign personalities
right next to the White Tower (politicians, artists etc).
and the Royal Theatre (see p.
25). The equestrian statue of 1.3 Umbrellas.
Alexander the Great (6 m. high This emblematic sculpture
and 7 m. wide) is fixed on
(height: 13 m.) created by the
a base; there is a frieze around
it with an embossed depiction significant Greek visual artist
of the battle of Issos (333 George Zongolopoulos, was
BC) as well as 8 macedonian fitted in place in 1997; another
shields with even-numbered of his sculptures by the same
spears. Within a short distance title is decorating the entrance
you will see the statue of to the Macedonian Museum
the Macedonian politician of Contemporary Art, (see p.
Konstantinos Karamanlis 31). In 1993 this piece of art
(1907 – 1998) who served as represented Greece in the
Prime Minister of Greece for Venice Biennale. It is one of the
14 years in the post war period newest and most photographed
and as President of Greece monuments of the city.
for 10 years. The Monument 1.4 Agioi Kyrillos and
of National Resistance is also Methodios [Saints Cyril and
nearby (1989, E. Moustakas). Methodius] Church.
1.2 Makedonia Palace This imposing church (on
Hotel. Megalou Alexandrou Ave.) is
One of the landmarks among the city’s newest and is
in Thessaloniki’s urban dedicated to the two brothers
planning is this hotel built in who contributed decisively in
the 1970’s on a privileged bringing Christianity to the
location. The place was fully Slavs in the 9th c. and devised 51
renovated in 1995 and in a new type of writing in the
2003. It is considered one Slavic language. A well-tended
of the top luxury hotels in garden surrounds the church.

55 56
1.5 Theme gardens. Byzantine history was the source
6th walk:
NEA PARALIA – VASILISSIS OLGAS AVENUE
Along Megalou Alexandrou of inspiration for its architectural
Avenue towards the direction planning and it is one of the
of the sea, 12 Theme Gardens best equipped concert halls in
cover an area of 76,657 m2 Europe. The facilities include a
and are just the ideal place for hall providing seating for 1464
spending your leisure time, where concerts, dance and
strolling or relaxing. They are as opera performances as well as
follows: Garden of Alexander; conferences are held, and
Garden of the Afternoon Sun; a restaurant. The neighbouring
Garden of Sand (with a café, 2nd building of the Concert
tennis courts and a playground); Hall (designed by Japanese
Garden of the Seasons (includes A. Isozaki) includes halls for
an amphitheatre open for various concerts and conferences, a
events and a café); Garden of Museum of Musical Instruments
Odysseas Fokas (playground and a Music Library. The
inside); Garden of the Poseidonio Sports Centre
Mediterranean (café included); is located nearby.
Garden of Sculptures (outdoor
contemporary art sculptures); 2 DEPOT AREA
Garden of Sound (with flowing
waters); Garden of Roses (with The area was named after the
ornamental flower beds and a site of the tram depot buildings
playground); Garden of Memory and this complex has been
(with basketball grounds and listed as a Historic Monument,
tennis courts); Garden of Water situated at the corner of Vas.
(you will see lakes with plants Olgas and Typa Streets. The
growing in water, a small waterfall tram used to connect the city
and a skatepark); and Garden of centre with this area from 1893
Music with a space reserved for until 1957. It is the easternmost
music events. You can also ride part of the Exoches area
along the area’s 3 km cycle path. [meaning Countryside] where
This is also the location of the traces of its older atmosphere
Nautical Club of Thessaloniki. still remain in several places.
1.6 Thessaloniki Concert MUST SEE:
52
Hall.
It was inaugurated in 2000 on 2.1 Allatini Mills.
a privileged location. The town’s Deserted since 1990, this

57 58

57.
The church
of Saints
Cyril and
Methodius.
58.
The
Thessaloniki
Concert Hall.
59.
Allatini Villa in
Depot area.
complex of 14 listed industrial of residents occupies the

NEA PARALIA – VASILISSIS OLGAS AVENUE


6th walk:
buildings is quite impressive. area. Built in the early 20th c.
The complex’s construction as a private residence, the
date is 1854 and the town’s neighbouring Zardinidi Villa
first steam-driven flour mill was (or Morpourgo) houses the
located by the sea. Originally School of Music Studies, the
under French ownership, they Conservatoire of Northern
became property of the Allatini Greece and an open air bar
family in 1882.
2.4 Sofouli Street.
2.2 Vafopouleio Cultural This main road connects
Centre. the eastern districts of the
Two contiguous buildings Municipality of Thessaloniki with
form this structure which was the district of Kalamaria (see
inaugurated in 1983 by the p. 64). Along most of the way
Municipality of Thessaloniki. it is lined with trees in front of
The Centre hosts visual art shops, cafés and restaurants
exhibitions, theatre and – a hotspot for the locals; the
music performances as well seafront section of the road
as discourse events. Other affords a lovely view of the
facilities include three libraries city and you will also find cozy
one of which is a Children’s little bars and ouzo tavernas
library which contains over there. Between Logothetou
14,500 volumes. and Rossidi Streets notice the
2.3 Ouziel quarter.
complex of four detached houses
with a garden, which bear a
This complex of very direct reference to that area’s
picturesque semi-detached past countryside atmosphere.
houses (defined within
Papandreou, Ploutonos,
Chaironeias and Dimitrakopoulou 3 VASILISSIS OLGAS
streets) were built to house AVENUE
the workers employed in the It used to be called the
tramway construction and Countryside [Exochon] avenue or
was named after the French the Villas [Pyrgon] avenue and it
contractor Ouziel. In 1985 was a favourite promenade area 53
it was declared a protected for the Thessalonians as it was
architectural monument and in built along the waterfront amid
recent years a new generation green surroundings. Nowadays,

59
it is a busy street along which 3.2 Casa Bianca.

6th walk:
NEA PARALIA – VASILISSIS OLGAS AVENUE
Depot, Analipsi, Salamina and It was built in 1912 by Dino
Faliro Districts extend from the Fernadez-Diaz, to plans by P.
east towards the city centre. Arrigoni, and it was named
Despite the area’s urbanization, after his wife, Bianca. The
you will still see here several building features eclectic and
impressive buildings dating art nouveau elements and it
to the late 19th – early 20th c. has been a scheduled one since
which paint a vivid picture of its 1976. Today it houses a branch
older character and continue to of the Municipal Art Gallery.
be one of the best promenade At 203, Vas. Olgas Ave. you
places in town. will come across the eclectic
Nehama Villa, which was built
MUST SEE: in 1907 by Al. Nehama,
3.1 Allatini Villa.
a banker. It was originally a two
storey building; a third storey
This impressive red brick was added in 1940-1945.
mansion is surrounded by a
large garden and was built in 3.3 Mordoch Villa
1898, to plans by V. Poselli, as (Municipal Art Gallery).
a country residence of K. Allatini, This impressive eclectic
owner of the Allatini business style construction (1905, X.
establishment. The Ottoman Paionidis) is located at the
Sultan Hamid II was confined corner of Vas. Olgas Ave.
to this place for three years, and 25th March Street. It was
after the Young Turks Movement built as the residence of the
took power in 1908. In 1926 Turkish officer Seifulah Pasha,
the then newly founded but it became finally known as
University of Thessaloniki was Mordoch Villa, after the last
housed in the villa (see also owner, a Jewish Merchant by
p. 38); during World War II the the name of S. Mordoch who
premises were used as a military died in a concentration camp
hospital. Today it is the seat of during World War II. It was also
the Region of Central Macedonia used as military barracks and
54 offices. In the neighbouring as a polyclinic; since 1986
Delfon St, at no. 201 you will it houses the Municipal Art
see another residence dating Gallery (see p. 76). A copper
to the same period. sculpture by sculptor K.

60

60, 61 & 62.


Three
imposing villas
(mansions)
on Vas. Olgas
Ave.: [from left]
Ahmet Kapanci
Villa, Casa
Bianca and
Mordoch Villa.
Kampadakis graces its lovely elaborate interior decoration

NEA PARALIA – VASILISSIS OLGAS AVENUE


6th walk:
garden. At a short distance, and has access to a tower.
at the corner of Vas. Olgas Ave. Prince Nicholas, the city’s first
and Gravias st., you will see Greek military commander, was
the Hirsch villa (early 20th c., accommodated here in 1912;
P. Arrigoni), a deserted building in 1916-1917 E. Venizelos
which once housed the 1st stayed in the villa as head of
Police Department. Notice the the temporary revolutionary
old pillbox at the end of the Government of National Defence.
yard – a remnant of the Civil In 1928 the building was bought
War Period (1946 – 1949). by the National Bank of Greece
and during the years 1938 –
3.4 Chatzilazarou
1961 it housed some of the city’s
Residence. highschools. Since 1989, this
Also known as Siaga residence, is the location of the Thessaloniki
this house was built in 1890 Cultural Centre of the National
to plans by X. Paionidis. Next Bank of Greece Cultural
to it, you will see the impressive Foundation (MIET, see p. 77).
Marokou Residence which Next to it there is a red brick
was used at earlier times castle, known as Chateau mon
as a boarding school; today bonheur, dating to 1890.
it houses a Traffic Police
Department. Opposite to it, 3.6 Ahmet Kapanci Villa
there is a small garden with (105, Vas. Olgas Ave.).
a small Roman Catholic chapel It was built in 1905 by P.
dedicated to the Sacred Heart Arrigoni, as a country (seaside)
of Jesus. residence for Ahmet Kapanci,
a Jewish merchant and Mayor
3.5 Mehmet Kapanci Villa of the City. The architectural
(108, Vas. Olgas Ave.). style is a mixed one as the
The mansion was built in 1893 eclectic features combine
to plans by the Italian architect neoclassical, renaissance, art
P. Arrigoni, within a 0.4 hectare nouveau and gothic motifs.
garden, for Mehmet Kapanci, In 1926, the Greek State took
a Thessalonian Jewish merchant ownership and since then
and banker. Following the central the premises housed the Red 55
European architectural trend of Cross, the Gestapo, and NATO
the time, the main building is services until 1973. Offices for
a three storey construction with the 1997 European Capital of

61 62
Culture events in Thessaloniki was the location of the Melissa
6th walk:
NEA PARALIA – VASILISSIS OLGAS AVENUE
were housed in this villa. orphanage; since 1978 it
3.7 Folklife and Ethnological
houses the Centre for Byzantine
Research of the Aristotle
Museum of Macedonia – University of Thessaloniki. It
Thrace (68, Vas. Olgas Ave.) bears pronounced neoclassical
This eclectic building (you and renaissance features
will get a better view from and the ceiling paintings are
Megalou Alexandrou Ave.) was particularly interesting. There
the residence of the banker is a small garden around the
Jacob Modiano in the early 20 th
building.
c. In 1913 it was bought by
the Greek State, offered to the 3.10 Building of the School for
Greek Royal Family and, later on, the Blind (32, Vas. Olgas Ave.).
it became the residence of the It was built in 1907 as a
Governor General of Macedonia, private residence (Hafiz Bey
a Military School of Medicine Mansion) and it has been used
and a Seminary. In 1970 it was as a business school and a day
granted to the Museum and nursery. Eclectic architecture
in 1980 the premises were elements are combined with
declared a scheduled monument motifs relating to late
(for museum exhibits, see p. Renaissance. Since 1948 it
75). The adjacent noteworthy houses the Ilios [meaning Sun]
complex belongs to the Goethe School for the Blind.
Institut (1929).
3.8 Building at 71, 3.11 Jeborga Villa
Vas. Olgas Ave. (20, Vas. Olgas Ave.).
A once private residence, it has It was built in 1878 as the
also housed a private school in residence of Jeborga, a Jewish
the past and today it is a private merchant of French descent,
nursery school and kindergarten. and the architectural plans
are attributed to X. Paionidis.
3.9 Melissa Building
From 1901 until 1978 it
(36, Vas. Olgas Ave.). housed the Italian Consulate.
It was built in 1896 as the It is now deserted. The stylish
56 residence of a Turkish merchant Themeli villa at no. 18 is
and in 1908 it was purchased quite impressive and is also
by the Bulgarian government. known as Levi Modiano villa
From 1922 until 1977, this and Michailidis residence.

63 64
63.
Yeni Mosque
features quite
a few eclectic
architectural
elements.
64.
Modiano Villa
(Vas. Olgas
Ave.) houses
the Folklife &
Ethnological
Museum of
Macedonia -
Thrace.
65.
The imposing
building of the
School for the
Blind, on Vas.
Olgas Ave.
3.12 Yeni Camii assassinated on March 5, 1913

NEA PARALIA – VASILISSIS OLGAS AVENUE


6th walk:
(New Mosque). by Al. Schinas, a 43-year old
It is located at 30, Archaeolo- teacher. Crafted by sculptor K.
gikou Mouseiou Street. It was Dimitriadis in 1915, this piece
built in 1902 by the Italian of art is the first sculpture to be
architect V. Poselli as the placed in public space in free
mosque for Jews converted Thessaloniki and it is considered
to Islam (Donmeh). It combines as one of the finest in town.
features of the Muslim 3.15 School Building
architectural tradition and (Ivan Hatzimisef Villa).
eclecticism. In 1922 the building It is located on 27, Vas.
provided accommodation for Georgiou Ave. (Vas. Olgas
refugees and during the period Ave. changes to Vas. Georgiou
1925–1963 it housed the city’s Ave.). It was built in 1897 and
Archaeological Museum. It is now until a few years ago it housed
a municipal exhibition area; in the the 12th Primary School of
yard there is a collection of marble Thessaloniki. Today it is used
sculptures dating to Roman and by locals as a venue for cultural
Early Christian times (sarcophagi, events, film screenings and so
stelae and others), collected from on. Every Saturday, an organic
the wider urban area. food market is set up there.
At 29, Vas. Georgiou Ave. you
3.13 Hatzimisef Villa will see Navarro Villa, another
(3, Vas. Olgas Ave.) interesting building which in
This is yet another building recent years has been housing
typical of the style found in the head office of a private
the area, housing the town’s company; the Hatzimisef
1st High School. At no. 5, lies brothers villa at 25, Vas.
the Joseph Modiano villa, Georgiou ave. is also worth
today uninhabited and barely noticing.
discernible behind the fencing. 3.16 Building at 34-36
A branch of the town’s 1st High Evzonon Street.
School was once located here.
This impressive house
3.14 Bust of George I. with elaborate decorations
It is found at the corner combines classical, baroque 57
of Vas. Olgas Ave. and Agias and renaissance features.
Triadas St. This is the spot Notice the beautifully chiselled
where King George I was sculpture fitted on the façade.

65
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N

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I

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AN SQ.
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US

58 7th walk:
WEST OF THE CENTRE-STAVROUPOLI
1 DIMOKRATIAS SQUARE 2 AROUND DIMOKRATIAS
(VARDARI) SQUARE
Since ancient times, this There are mostly faceless
has been the most important buildings in the area –
entry point to Thessaloniki. among them you will find
This relatively disadvantaged small manufactures or old
area is a transportation hub industries. However there are
connecting the west and also historic sites, as there
northwest suburbs with the are sections of the city’s west
city centre; there are also walls here, Byzantine and
several hotels, small shops, ottoman monuments and other
tavernas and cafés in the archaeological sites (temple
66. area. In the centre of the
Vardariou of Aphrodite, 6th c. BC).
Tower (Top square you will see the statue
Hane). of King Constantine (1868- MUST SEE:
1923), who entered the
2.1 Railway Station.
67. city in 1912 in his capacity
Old steam as commander-in-chief of It is on Monastiriou Street
engine the Greek Army. The road which is renamed at some
fronting distances (in km) where point Egnatia Street (see p. 34).
Thessaloniki’s Thessaloniki is the starting Construction began in 1939
Railway point get calculated from and it became fully operational
Station. this square. in 1951, but it was officially
inaugurated in 1962 (S. Molfesis, which used to be the main city

WEST OF THE CENTRE-STAVROUPOLI


7th walk:
Th. Papagiannis). Its exterior stronghold. There is a small
side combines modern and grove around it and in the wider
classical elements with wings area you will see sections
added on the sides. It connects of the west walls which remain
Thessaloniki with the rest of in a good condition.
Greece, the Balkans and Istanbul; 2.4 De La Salle Complex.
it is also the bus terminus
towards most of the city areas. It was built in 1926 to house
This will be the location of the the De La Salle St Michel
west metro line terminus under French-Hellenic College. The
construction in Thessaloniki. construction features elements
of neobyzantine architecture
2.2 Old Railway Station. and consists of two wings
It was built in 1894 near the which intersect and form a
harbour (Old Station Street) monumental entrance at the
in the neoclassical style, corner of Fragkon and Moskof
and it gradually connected Streets. Today, the city’s
Administrative Courts are
Thessaloniki with Skopje, located in the premises.
Belgrade, Monastir and At a short distance lies the new
Constantinople (modern-day Court House which was erected
Istanbul). Today it is exclusively here after the demolition of the
used as a cargo train station. old building located in Ethnikis
This is where the German Amynis St. (see p. 25), following
occupation forces mustered the damages it suffered after
about 50,000 Jewish residents, the 1978 earthquake.
from March until August 1943,
in order to send them by train 2.5 Vienni Hotel.
off to concentration camps. It was built in 1925 (designs
2.3 Top Hane (Vardariou
by architect G. Kampanellos),
at the beginning of Egnatia
Tower). Street, in an area where
Situated where the west commercial activity was
and seafront city walls used already on the rise in the
to meet, this Tower was built 1880s. The façade displays
by the Ottomans in 1546 and the eclectic architectural trend 59
it was known as the Armoury of the time, with neoclassical
Tower. It is a six-sided, three- influences. Today it houses
storey and 10-metre high tower private company offices.

66 67
2.6 Holy Twelve Apostles WEST OF THE
7th walk:
WEST OF THE CENTRE-STAVROUPOLI
3 
Church HARBOUR
(see p. 8). The area began to grow in
the late 19th century, after the
2.7 West City Walls.
demolition of the seafront city
Sections of the city’s west walls wall and the ensuing pulling
remain along Arkadioupoleos and down of large sections of the
Eirinis Streets and finds related city’s west and east walls.
to Litaia Gate have recently The short distance to the
been located at the corner harbour and the rail system
of Agiou Dimitriou and Agiou construction were two decisive
Nestoros Streets. This gate factors which led to large
used to be one of the seven industrial unit installations
great gates of the fortified city in the area. In recent decades
and formed part of the Early many of these buildings
Christian period walls; it was were changed into culture
named after Liti, a Byzantine and entertainment venues,
town to which the gate led. while others are scheduled
The Golden Gate was also to become sports or cultural
located on the Egnatia centres. An example would be
Street level. the listed building of the old
Municipal Slaughterhouse (early
2.8 Pasha Hamam 20th c.), near the FIX factory,
[Paşa Hamami] (Phoenix after which the entire district
Bath house). was named.
It was built during the
1520s by Cezeri Kasim Paşa. MUST SEE:
Also known as Phoenix Bath
3.1 Vilka multi purpose
house, this used to be the
last ottoman bath house open venue.
in town, as it closed down in This is the old textile factory
as late as 1981. It is located of Torres and Co., renamed
at the corner of Kalvou and Vilka, which closed down in
Pineiou Streets, near the west 1988 and is now restructured
60 walls and the church of the into a space reserved for various
Holy Twelve Apostles, and the events and entertainment, as it
structure of the building was includes a theatre, concert halls,
planned with great care. cafés and bars.

68 69
68.
Mylos multi-
purpose
venue is one
of the most
popular places
for hosting
events and
entertainments
in Thessaloniki.
69.
Moni
Lazariston
building
complex
houses
the State
Museum of
Contemporary
Art, among
other
foundations.
3.2 Mylos multi purpose Company (1890-94), which was

WEST OF THE CENTRE-STAVROUPOLI


7th walk:
venue. running until 1978.
It is housed in the premises
of the old Flour Mill [Mylos 4 TERPSITHEA DISTRICT
in Greek] of Chatzigiannaki- (STAVROUPOLI)
Altinalmazi (1924). In 1991 This is a relatively quiet area
it passed to private owners in Stavroupoli Municipality near
and was changed into a the city centre; the urban and
culture venue that is well- free space arrangement shows
known throughout the country. a good town planning. Along
The biggest names of the downtown Lagkada Street,
domestic and international you will see the old military
music scene have chosen to camp and Lebet mosque,
appear here; the cafés, bars which will be changed into a
and restaurants found in the park. Since 1938, the Jewish
complex are very popular with cemetery has been located
Thessalonians. in the space between Karaoli
3.3 FIX Brewery. Dimitriou and Dendropotamou
Streets; a number of marble
The brewery was founded pieces have been carried from
in 1893 by Misrachi and the old cemetery which used
Fernandez. Later on, annexes to be within the grounds of
were added to the original the Aristotle University of
installations and the firms Thessaloniki, (see p. 38) and
Olympus Brewery and Olympus- was destroyed by the Germans
Naoussa Brewery were during World War II. Once
successively set up. In 1926 you’ve completed your tour you
FIX company took and retained can return to the city centre
ownership of the brewery until taking the 27 and 29 bus lines
the mid-1980’s when it was (in the direction from Lagkada
closed down. Today the place St. to Egnatia St.).
is deserted with the exception
of certain newer storehouses
which were restructured into MUST SEE:
concert halls. Since 2001, the 4.1 Allied Military 61
Water Museum (see p. 79) is Cemetery (Zeitenlik).
housed in the adjacent old main
pumping station of the Water This is the largest military
necropolis in Greece. There
are five sectors to it and over
21,000 soldiers of the Entente
powers were buried here
(8,089 French, 8,000 Serbs,
3,000 Italians, 1,648 British
and 400 Russian soldiers),
all killed on the Macedonian
front during World War I.
Coming in from the main
entrance (Lagkada Street)
you will meet the impressive
Serbian monument at the
back of which there is a small
Serbian church. The city’s
catholic cemetery lies in the
neighbouring Koutifari Street.
4.2 Moni Lazariston
[Lazarists Monastery].
This impressive building
was erected in 1886 by
monks of the order of St.
Vincent de Paul, also known
as Lazarists after Saint
Lazare church in Paris, which until 1990. Most of them were
7th walk:
WEST OF THE CENTRE-STAVROUPOLI
was the seat of the order. built in the Interwar Period and
At times, the building was bear art deco and Bauhaus
used as a hospital and a architectural features. Today,
refugee hospitality centre. one of them (opposite Moni
In 1980 it was declared a Lazariston) is a luxury hotel;
historic monument and a another one houses the School
work of art and in 1997 it of Film Studies of the Aristotle
was fully renovated in order University of Thessaloniki
to accommodate the needs (located at the corner of
arising from the European Ikoniou and Ag. Dimitriou
Capital of Culture events in Streets); the Red Tobbaco shop
Thessaloniki. Since then it has (Arapitsis Naousis St.) houses
been used as a multi-purpose administrative offices and the
cultural and entertainment neighbouring building of the
venue, as two halls of the Austrian Hellenic Tobacco
National Theatre of Northern Company was turned into
Greece (N.T.N.G., see p. 109) a mall.
a Cultural Centre, a café-
restaurant and a bar are 4.4 Stavroupoli Botanical
housed here. Outdoor space Garden.
theatrical performances, It is a 0.5 hectare garden
concerts and other events within a 2.7 hectare green
also take place in the area with playgrounds,
premises. The State Museum sports grounds, a café
of Contemporary Art is and an amphitheatre. It
housed in one of the older contains over 1000 species
structures, covering an area of flora (varieties of roses,
of 3,270 m2 (for museum cactus, medicinal plants and
collections, see p. 75). Mediterranean species among
4.3 Kapnapothikes
others), a greenhouse with
banana trees and orchids as
[Tobacco warehouses]. well as a gazebo built on a
Five old tobacco warehouses man-made hill on the location
62 (tobacco shops) still stand affording the finest view.
in the area, as reminders of Entrances to the garden are
the city’s booming tobacco in Perikleous, Olympou and K.
trade from the mid-19th c. Konstantinidi Streets.

70

70.
The Serbian
monument in
the Zeitenlik
allied military
cemetery.
1.1

3.1
3
2

7.1

5
7

63

SUBURBS AND CITY OUTSKIRTS


1 KALOCHORI pelicans, flamingoes and water
buffaloes. A further while
Kalochori is situated near the towards the west (beyond the
city’s west entrance, at a short city limits), you will see the
distance from the centre (5 km wetland of the Delta formed
W). It was created in the early by the rivers Axios, Loudias
20th c. by refugees and despite and Aliakmonas. This is a 320
its mostly industrial character km2 area, protected by the
it is a rapidly rising residential Ramsar Convention [a.k.a. The
suburb, known for its ouzo and Convention on Wetlands of
fish tavernas. International Importance] and
is also included in the Natura
MUST SEE: 2000 network. The Axios –
Loudias – Aliakmonas Estuaries
Gallikos River. Management Authority offers
It stretches along Kalochori’s free tours in the area (www.
west edge. The municipality axiosdelta.gr).
has set up kiosks and facilities 1.1 Sindos.
so that travellers can stop over,
relax or go picnicking along It is located approx. 9 km
the riverside. Further south NW of Kalochori and owes its
you will see the river delta and considerable growth to the
Kalochori lagoon with herons, Thessaloniki Industrial Park
situated nearby. The small MUST SEΕ:

SUBURBS AND CITY OUTSKIRTS


mounds in the field are ancient
2.1 Sofouli Street
tombs; a Neolithic settlement
was excavated in one of them (see p. 53).
with a cemetery dating to the
2.2 Kyverneio [Government
Geometric and Archaic period.
An impressive Macedonian House] (Little Palace).
tomb was also unearthed in Situated on cape Mikro
Agios Athanasios area. Emvolo or Karampournaki,
Little Palace was built in the
How to get there. Bus 1950’s and used to be the
lines 40, 40A and 40K leave country residence of the greek
for Kalochori from the Railway royal family; today the minister
Station Stop. If you travel by of Macedonia-Thrace and
car, take the Athens direction the President of the Hellenic
on the national road and turn Republic stay here when
towards Kalochori. visiting the city. The ground
floor includes the lounges,
2 KALAMARIA a dance hall and an atrium;
the first floor includes two
This is practically an eastward suites and secondary rooms.
‘extension’ of Thessaloniki and It is surrounded by a garden
the city’s best known suburb, and it affords an amazing
stretching along the waterfront, view of the city as well as Mts
with many green spaces and Chortiatis and Olympus.
a self-contained shopping
centre. The first inhabitants are 2.3 Kodra former military
recorded in the early 20th c. and camp.
during the 1920’s significant Building works are under way
numbers of Greek refugee to change it into a park. The
populations settled here and Municipality of Kalamaria often
built their small houses. They hosts cultural events and visual
came from Caucasus, Minor art exhibitions there. On-site
Asia and Pontus [modern- excavations brought to light a
day northeast Turkey]. Today, settlement dating to the archaic
64 despite the rising building trend and classical times (9th – 5th
in the area, several refugee c. BC), which some scientists
houses remain, still keeping believe it is identified as the
a flavour of times goneby. location of Ancient Thermi.

71

71.
Kyverneio
(Palataki)
overlooks cape
Karampournaki
(Kalamaria).
72.
Panorama
area offers a
fine view of
the city and its
environs.
11 12 13 14

Aretsou – Krini. 3 PANORAMA

SUBURBS AND CITY OUTSKIRTS


2.4
These two most popular One of the best suburbs of
areas of Kalamaria stretch Thessaloniki is situated at
along the seafront. The a 12 km distance S of the
facilities of the local marine city centre and was built on
sports club are here, next to the slope of Mt Chortiatis,
Aretsou-Krini beach; there is offering a panoramic city view.
also an open air cinema and a It was uninhabited until the
marina (the only one in town) DIMOK
RITOU early 20th c., although traces
with a 242-berth capacity GLYN
OU
THEO

OU
SPOR
of a prehistoric settlement
S
OU VO
AT
FILOU

KR IOU

(there are power, water and O NA STAS


IPPGLYNOUPAPA
VYZANT
IOU
have been located on the area.
telephone services). The PAPA
FLESSA VARN
ALI

The first inhabitants were


KALV

PALAMA

ANOIXIS UI
OU LO
SPYR
OU

waterfront N. Plastira Street


PAPA

KONSTANTINOUPOLITON

refugees from Asia Minor and


NIKO

OU
SEFERI

ANDR
MEN
DIMOK

is lined with café-bars and


LAOU

IAS
IPPO

VISVIZ

OMAG
PROT NIDI
Pontus. Today its largest part
RATIA
KRAT

SYMEO
SPA

RETIREMENT
fish tavernas which get filled POU
LOU
NOU

OUS
PER

ELO
is covered by luxury villas and
HOME
ANG
RAIV

TOUMPA I GOVATZIDAKI

to capacity all year round.


CEMETERY OL
IS)
OU

DIV SQ. PANORAMA


RA STEFANOU ITS
KISSOU GK
OU
IOU KI (K
ON
impressive detached homes;
ATH
ANTH

OR
OLY

KARIATIDAS GRIG TA PRA


AM
INA
G

VIS UL
EMO

PERR
NOTO

KAVIRON KI
LEFA IA
Komninon Street.
2.5 IGO
R IO
there is a small shopping
AGAMEM

TIGI
UNTO

IDI
PARMEN
U

GR
AIVO

PANTAZ STRA
MIO

AN STADIOU
PAFS ELIS I
STAG
U

MALAKOPI STRATIG
S

SEM
U

U
IPO OS
LISS TIFAN
area in the centre. Trigona
NONOS
IDI

AETIO

STAM
TSIAPAN

IRITI

AN OUS TSAMI DY PILEA


The longest part of the NE
PAFSILY
AERO POU

AKLE KE CEMETERY
NOS

OLYM

ATEL

MEG IAS TSELEPI


Panoramatos [a cream puff
KYP
ELI

IPAT EPID
OU

ROU
POU

NG
OU

AVR
IPE
PIAS

POULOU
town’s main street is for
KER

AVA

OU TRIANTAFYLLO
IRO

HOU FILI
AGAL
AM

PRAIDI

MAR
U
KAR

PROFITIS ILIAS

pastry] – one of the city’s best


RC EFS
OU

YPA ATHO
IKO

TATH NOS
TSELIOU AS
TOM

OU
PAVLOU MELA
IANO

U IOU TS
U
OU

YLID
pedestrian use only and PILEA
you
VAS. KONSTANTINOU

RY
OL

U
AIO FOK TSE KO
OS

S MITROP
OU

YM

ARG LIOU
PA

OLITOU
U

known sweet delicacies – were


RΥS

PO

EPIDAVROU
PA
DRIN

PILEA MAKE U
U

A S DONIA
IRO
CH

PRAXAGOR
LEOS

will find shops, cafés, small


S
TIR ULA

IKO DIMITS OM
CHAN

OS

FOIN ANAS PILEAS N


NAFPL

AGRA
LEIO
OLO

KALLIPO

TRONI
EFE

created at a local confectionery


TASE

SCHO
EFTALIOTI
OLI

NOUS

KARANIVALOU
SS

U
IS

LON DORY
DOUKA

PALAIOLOG
RDELIO

LAIOU
IOU

OU
OU

DOMP

bars and restaurants along


ETHNIKIS ANTIS
IRIA
OLEOS
VIZYIS

KOLOKO

VRY OU
ANAXIME

KAISA
REIAS
MYLIAS

ETA

S DORYLAIOU LAOGR.

in the 1950’s.
KO

A SIA MOUS
IKIS
AMFIP

KI
ANATOL DERKON

RAS VOSPOR ATLANTIDAS EIOU


NEARCHOU

KA

the way. This is also where


MIK OU
RIGA FERAIOU
IKIS RO

FIL

SA

SELEFKO

EFT
AIOU
FILINTA

SVOLOU ALI
AS

DARD
AMMO OTI
CHOS
PR

U ANELL
ILIA
NAFPLIOU

TOU
EM
IDEIAS
KYZIKO EOS

FOU

ION
FITI
TH

EM

you will find the area’s central


PTOL

MOPY
PRO
U
IFAISTIONOS
S

MA
ER
NEAPOL
NIKOM U
MIDEIA

PONT VOSPOROU NO LON


EPTALO

OU LARN UIL
KIS AKOS VEN
APO

NEARCHOU

ZACHOU IZELO
ARTA
S
TINO

LOU
TENE

square where the Town IKA


AGIOS THERAPON EIRINIS U
OU
LLO

MUST SEE:
PADD FAIAK ZIRINI RD OS
KATO
TOTE
U

DR

OKIAS ON
US PE IAD
DOU

NOS

TOUMPA ANAT NO A MP
XAN

NIAS OLIKI OLY


TIR
FILIPPOU

A E
ARIS

AR
SANTAS

S TH ON XIM
Hall and the church of the
VITHY S
CHO

ALE

PAFI NIAS RAKI Z A A DAV


PL
RON

AN
ARI

SYROU S AKI
URM

LOU

Platanakia.
BOTS

MET

AONI
AS

ANON

IOU
NIKAIAS

AS CH ARI
OS

G
AREI

GA

KAN
Transfiguration of Christ are.
OUZ

NIOS MIN
IAD
SA

OGLO ANA FLE


ME
AGRI

ISOK
U
KOU

KAIS

U RATO XIM
I
RGIO

TOUS

MP

OU US NDA
IMVR EVM ROU
IGIL
MAR

OLY
NOU

SPEF
GEO

It is a nice place for relaxing,


KARO OU ANTA

From the direction of the


KI LIDOU TOM
SIPO ENO
OC

U IOU US
IOAN

PAPA

DYS
HO
AM
NOS
US

R.
A
KA

ANTI MIT MYS


U

LI
STIR
NO

TAKI OK
ANG GROU

IOU LEIOU
OT
NOU

EIDO

in a wooded ravine, with a


NAD
DI ETE
POS RI
STHE

seafront, you can reach the


SI
ANTIROU

ERO
FE

GEN IOU VA
PLA
OCH OU

ELO
S

SE

EA
MIS AROU

ARI AG
U
MIK

PAPA OSIAS XENI


KLI

VA
DIM STEFAN

KAN
MEL

NA KARA SIKYROU NIKA TROCHIODROMIKON


ETEO

S
IRLI

small Zoo and a café. A 6 km


STA THEO NORO

area via I. Passalidis Street.


SIOU DORI S
R.

DANI NEOP
NTO

PLAT
U MIT

ALKM OLOU AION GAZI TOLE


MOU
KAR

INIS CHARILAOU
AL
KREO

path begins here and leads


KA
ADIO

IDOU
INA
AKA

NIKIS
LI

LEON
ME
ANA
MARAS
NATS

NO
GENN
SI

AN

NEMEA PAPA AGISILAOU


US

How to get there. Bus


NATH KON OSIA XENI
AX KEAN TOUS

STAN S NAS
up to the artificial lake (dam)
ANAI
IM

TINO TASI
O

L ARKA
DE

AN

UPO OU
VAM

MAN DIOU ALKM


DIGKA

LEOS
INO

DR N
LOU

TIN AINOU INIS


GAM EIAS
OU
VA
S

IDO

lines 5 and 5A leave from


KRA
N
OLEO

OPOU

SQ.
VET
of Thermi. Along the way you
ATREIDO

A
NOUP

XYNG

I ZOUM
Eleftherias square. Get off at
AR
I

will come across spots for a


ADRIA
AKAS

YP ETIKOU

65
RI

GR
PARA

GA

I
RN

ROID
KA
MAL

UL

KAOUDI
CHO

RD
LI
ELA

Naftikos Omilos [Marine Club]


VO

GAMV
brief rest, short waterfalls and
ITS

DROSINI SQ. ETA GLYN


AI
TZAV

IS
S

OU
U

OU
KOR

MAKED
SCHO
KAR

POLY ONIA
KLE

LA STRO
S EXOCHES

stop or at Chamodrakas stop fragments of eight Byzantine


AKA

IRA

MNITS
PARA

US TYPA IS TREIS
LDOU
U
SI

IERARCHES
IKO
ELA
LI

U
I

THERMI - CHALKIDIKI
MARSL

ICHA

IO

LEN

in Aretsou area. watermills.


CHAL
TOU

TZAV

KERAMEIA
FERA

KIDIKI STR
RIGA NOU

ME

THESSALONIKI
SO

ROM

S OM ALATINI
NAS

DEL MELEN NIT


LO

FON
XE

IKOU SIS
MAV

HAILIDI SQ. THERMOP


NO

IDI
U
S

YLON AR
TO

ELL
VOULGARI

KRIT
AN
KYRIA ATOU

IS AK I KOUR
EMEL
S AK
SA

SIL

H. TIDI TAIO
N

T TH
ZI

O
KORD

AVIT

U OU
YP

KI
LLIN

SA MOT HR A K IS
VIAS

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2.1
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SOUMELA
SOURMENO

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CHERIANON

VIS
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CHEN
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BALA

THERAP

NIKOLA

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PAPAPETRO
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OU

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PAPA

VITHYNIA
DALIPI

MAKR
NIKAIAS
I

POSEIDONOS
OU

KATIRLI
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U
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LEVA

PAPAGO CHALKIS N AGIOS NIKOLAOS


AGIOU

NAST

OUNA
MIAOU

KARAMA
AGIAS

ANIO SKRA
NT

MOUD
KAZIK

SQ.
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OMOU
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CHILIS

ST A
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CHRYSO PLASTIR
TAXIARCHON

MA RMARA

2.3
OU
VOSPOR
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2.4
I

ELLISP
A
PLASTIR

2.4
PL
AS
TIR
A

KARAMPOURNAKI
2.2
Chortiatis. known for its hot springs –

SUBURBS AND CITY OUTSKIRTS


3.1
thermae – hence the name
Named after the mountain, of the gulf (Thermaikos). During
this small suburb on Mt the Byzantine and Ottoman
Chortiatis (elev.: 1,201 m.), period it was known as Sedes;
stretches approx. 10 km NE in modern times, refugees
of Panorama. Since the Roman inhabited the area in the early
times, Thessaloniki’s water 20th c.
supply came from this place
via Vlatadon Monastery (see MUST SEE:
p. 44); this is why you will
see fragments of a Byzantine Paramana Square.
aqueduct at the suburb’s In 2009 Thermi’s central
border. The mountain is covered square was awarded a prize
with chestnut, oak, beech and for its futuristic design, in an
fir trees, there is a mountain architectural contest. The Town
refuge (Kissos location, elev. Hall and the two St. Nicholas
1,201 m.) and it is the ideal churches (older and new one)
place for hiking (there are 32 are located here. This is where
charted paths), for mountain Karaoli-Dimitriou Street begins,
biking and off-roading. the area’s business hub, where
you will also find café-bars and
How to get there. Board restaurants.
the 58 bus on Egnatia Street
and get off at Dimarchio Artificial lake.
[Town Hall], Astynomia [Police Bordering on the suburb,
Station] or at Platanakia stop. the lake was created when
a dam was built to contain
4 THERMI the water running through
a gully. It is the ideal place
This suburb is located a bit to make you feel refreshed
further away from town (15 km and relaxed; in the summer
SE of the city centre) and more the Dam Music Festival takes
or less still keeps a countryside place there. Further north,
air about it. On-site excavations within a short distance you
66 have shown that this was the will see the Environmental
location of the harbour of Park with a playground, tennis
ancient Thermi, a major one courts, basketball and football
in antiquity. The place was also grounds.

73

73.
On the slopes of
Mt. Chortiatis,
towards Thermi.
74.
Futuristic
Paramana Sq.
(Thermi).
Noesis –Science Centre 5 PERAIA – NEOI

SUBURBS AND CITY OUTSKIRTS


and Technology Museum EPIVATES – AGIA
It is the only one of its kind
TRIADA
in Greece! Construction of These seaside areas are
this 14,000-m2 impressive, located 20 km S of the city
modern complex was centre. The area was inhabited
completed in 2004 on a small for the first time in 1923
hill affording a panoramic view when refugees from Minor
of the area. It is considered Asia settled here. Until then
as the modern successor of Peraia was the property of a
the Technology Museum of Turkish Bey [a dignitary], Neoi
Thessaloniki. The premises Epivates was a Turkish estate
include screening rooms, (Bahçe Çiflik in Turkish) and
permanent exhibitions Agia Triada was called White
(Technology Museum), a Fountain. Today, these areas
conference centre, a digital have evolved into suburbs
and seaside resorts. Along
library, spaces reserved for the entire waterfront you will
temporary exhibitions and find beaches, awarded the
educational programmes, Blue Flag for beach quality,
an amphitheatre for carrying with facilities for water
out Demonstrations and sports, beach volleyball and
Experiments, a museum shop so on. There are fish tavernas,
and a restaurant-café (for cafés and bars bordering
info about exhibitions and the seafront pedestrian way,
programmes see p. 79). offering a fine seaview.
How to get there. Take How to get there. You
the bus No. 10 from the can take the buses Nos. 71
Railway Station Stop or from and 71A for N. Michaniona
Egnatia Street and get off at from the Railway Station Stop
the terminus in Charilaou area, in July and August (get off at
then board the 66 or 66B bus any stop from Paralia Peraias
and exit at Paramana square to Agia Triada). Throughout
or Zoni Kainotomias stop, to the year, bus lines 02 and 67
reach Noesis. If you travel by 02A will get you to A.S. IKEA
car, follow the Thessaloniki – station where you can board
Thermi route. any one of the 72, 72A, 72B

74
buses to N. Michaniona or Michanionas, Miaouli and

SUBURBS AND CITY OUTSKIRTS


the 76 bus to Angelochori. Epanomis country roads.
If you go by car, follow Ethnikis
Antistasis, Georgikis Scholis
and Michanionas Avenues. 7 NEA MICHANIONA
A major fishing centre (32
6 EPANOMI km S of Thessaloniki) with
the largest fleet of deep sea
This picturesque town fish boats in Greece! Once a
(population: 7,500) is situated refugee settlement, it is now a
25 km SE of Thessaloniki. In steadily growing area. The fish
the vicinity there are beautiful pier building by the picturesque
beaches, namely Ktima harbour gets crowded especially
Karagiozi, Ormos, Palioura, during the early morning hours.
Ageladariko, Mesimeri and Τhe seafront road is lined with
Potamos; you will also see a café-bars and tavernas. Popular
half-sunken wreck of a small beaches in this area such as
merchant vessel lying there Tourbani and Angelochori have
since 1967. Tsairi (4 km S been awarded the Blue Flag
of Epanomi) is the location for their beach quality.
of a wetland, a refuge for
over 80 species of birds.
Gerovassiliou Wine Museum MUST SEE:
is situated 2 km N. and is the 7.1 Angelochori.
only one of its kind in northern
Greece (for the museum see This small village lies 4 km
p. 80). N. of Nea Michaniona.
Cape Megalo Emvolo (or
How to get there. Take Megalo Karampournou)
the buses nos. 70 and 70A affords a wonderful view of
from the Railway Station the Olympus massif. It is
Stop during July and August. worth noticing the particular
Throughout the year board architectural structure of the
any one of 69A, 69B, 69E, remaining parts of an ottoman
68 69K, 69N, 69R, 69T or 69X stronghold, built there in 1884
buses at A.S. IKEA station. by German civil engineers;
If you travel by car, head for there is also a lighthouse
the airport and then follow reaching a height of 10.50 m.

75

75. Nea
Michaniona
is one of
the greatest
fisheries in
Greece.
76. Peraia
beach.
77. View of
the seafront at
Neoi Epivates.
78. You will
find modern,
well-equipped
water sports
facilities in
the area from
Peraia to
Epanomi.
SUBURBS AND CITY OUTSKIRTS
76

(1864); and a World War II The route goes through


gun emplacement. Further Angelochori and you will
south there are salt marshes get off at the N. Michaniona
and a wetland where 178 terminus. Alternatively, bus
bird species find refuge such lines 02 and 02A will get you
as flamingoes, cormorants, to A.S. IKEA station where you
herons, and black-headed will board any of the 72, 72A
gulls, to name but a few. or 72B bus for N. Michaniona. 69
How to get there. Take If you go by car, follow Ethinikis
the 71 or 71A bus from Antistasis, Georgikis Scholis
the Railway Station Stop. and Michanionas avenues.

77 78
MUSEUMS
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM • Thessaloniki, Metropolis
OF THESSALONIKI of Macedonia. (ground
floor, room 6). Historical and
Works of art of outstanding
archaeological information
value and excavated ensembles
from the entire region of is presented, starting from
Macedonia are on display, 315 BC when the town was
covering all the aspects of founded. There is also a
private and public life in the partial reconstruction of an
area, from the prehistoric era archaic temple of Ionic order,
to the late antiquity period. whose original position is yet
Exhibits are organised in six unknown; it was transported
basic categories: to the area of the Temples of
Thessaloniki during the Roman
• Towards the birth of towns. occupation.
(ground floor, room 4). The
evidence on display shows • The gold of Macedon.
that there were settlements in (ground floor, room 7). It
Macedonia dating to the Iron includes exhibits of exceptional
Age, from 1100 to 700 BC. craftsmanship (e.x. diadems,
crowns, rings, bracelets,
• Macedonia from the 7th c. earrings) removed mostly from
BC until Late Antiquity. cemeteries of the archaic and
(ground floor, room 5). Eight classical times; there is also
large theme sections cover a step by step depiction of the
various aspects of private processing of noble metals.
and public life in Macedonia The museum owns a very large
from the archaic years, when collection of gold crowns;
the independent Macedonian particularly worthy of notice
kingdom was created, until are also two singular items, the
the 1st – 4th c. AD, when the crater [type of vase-like vessel]
entire region was a province and the papyrus of Derveni
70 of the Roman Empire. Finds
(4th c. BC).
come mainly from excavations
carried out in areas of central • Field-House-Garden-
Macedonia. Grave. (in the museum’s

79 & 80. 79
The
Archaeological
Museum of
Thessaloniki
showcases
unique
finds from
Macedonia,
dating from
prehistoric
times to late
antiquity.
81.
The Museum
of Byzantine
Culture is
considered to
be one of the
top byzantine
museums
worldwide.
courtyard). Antiquities dating to in 2010. A narrative of local

MUSEUMS
the 2nd – 4th c. AD are divided inexcavations and information
two sections: in the first one a on the museum’s building
reconstruction is attempted of stages is on display in the
a cemetery segment containing vestibule; in the main hall,
finds, sarcophagi and altars; visitors will see a depiction
the second one involves the of the area’s history from the
re-creation of a Greco-roman Hellenistic years until the 4th
house with mosaic floors on c. AD. Other exhibits of great
display and items of daily use. interest are the Hellenistic
• Prehistoric Macedonia. Bathhouse, the ancient brothel,
(basement, room 11). The and the fountain associated
items exhibited refer to Man’s with the Stoa of the Statuettes
first productive stages in (Las Incantadas). There are
Macedonia (with activities such also finds related to the period
as hunting, fishing, agriculture, from the Turkish Occupation
stock farming, weaving, until the 1917 fire. Next to
metallurgy). There are also exhibited items, there are
casts of skulls belonging to descriptive texts and photos.
Ouranopithecus Macedoniensis,
an early hominid primate, as
well as of the Man found in MUSEUM OF BYZANTINE
Petralona cave (see p. 92). CULTURE
• Temporary exhibitions. It is considered one of the
The museum organises each best museums in Greece and
year a major thematic exhibition ranks high among its peers
and 2-5 minor ones, where across the globe, offering
particular aspects of every day a detailed picture of the
life in Macedonia are treated in Byzantine culture. Among
connection with the Greek and the 2,900 masterpieces of
the Mediterranean area. exhibits, there are murals,
mosaics, icons, marble
architectural members, whole
THE ROMAN FORUM Early Christian tombs, church
MUSEUM 71
vessels, items of personal
Small yet very interesting, dress, as well as objects of
this museum was inaugurated everyday use and tools used

80 81
by tradesmen. Aspects of 5) where visitors can use

MUSEUMS
the Byzantine everyday life, learning resources to explore
art and culture are depicted, the imperial dynasties from
covering the times from emperor Heraclius (610 – 641)
the early Byzantine until until the Palaiologan Dynasty
the post Byzantine period. (1261 – 1453) and iii) The
The exhibition is structured Byzantine Castle (room 6)
by dates, in the following dealing with the creation and
thematic categories: structuring of a castle in those
• Early Christian or Early times.
Byzantine period (4th – 7th c.). • Late Byzantine period
It includes the chapters: i. The (1204-1453). The chapter
Early Christian church (room The twilight of Byzantium
1) where the general shape (room 7) describes the last
and the particular elements centuries of the empire i.e.
of churches of that period are the period between 1204
described, ii) Early christian when Constantinople was
town and house (room 2), seized by the Crusaders and
offering some insight into 1453 when it was conquered
the public and private life of by the Ottoman Turks.
people in those times and iii)
From the Elysian Fields to the • Post Byzantine period
Christian Paradise (room 3) (1453 – 19th c.). A chapter
dealing with the burial of the titled Byzantium after
dead and the cemeteries of Byzantium –Byzantine legacy
the early Christian period. in the years that followed the
Conquest unfolds in room 10.
• Middle Byzantine
period (8th – 12th c.). It • Private collections. The D.
includes the chapters: i) From Papastratos Collection in room
Iconomachy to the splendour 8 includes 210 rare pieces of
of the Macedonian and the art - etchings with religious
Komnenian Dynasties (room 4) (orthodox) themes, and the D.
where the art and culture of Oikonomopoulos Collection, in
72
the middle Byzantine period room 9, counts 1,460 works of
is shown, ii) Dynasties of the art of any type (coins, ceramics,
Byzantine emperors (room icons and so on).

82 83

82, 83 & 84.


The Jewish
Museum of
Thessaloniki:
(left & middle)
permanent
exhibits from
the collection
Jewish
Necropolis;
(right) the
Jewish History
exhibition.
• Discovering the past. museum’s shop is located on

MUSEUMS
Excavated sites in the city and the last floor.
the procedure for creating and
maintaining an archaeological JEWISH MUSEUM OF
museum are described in room 11. THESSALONIKI
It was created following
• Temporary exhibitions
an initiative of the Jewish
and events. At times the
Community of Thessaloniki
Museum organises temporary
to promote the Sephardic
exhibitions and cultural events,
legacy in town, which dates
most of which are associated
as far back as the 15th c. It has
with Thessaloniki’s and
been open to visitors since
Northern Greece’s Byzantine
1997. It houses a Centre of
legacy.
Research and Study of the
Jewish History in Thessaloniki,
WHITE TOWER EXHIBITION an extensive library and an
Audiovisual Centre. Permanent
Starting from the year it was exhibitions are divided in four
founded until the present day, categories, as follows:
the history of Thessaloniki is • Jewish necropolis.
depicted through an array of (ground floor). Tombstones and
multimedia applications, special stelae with epitaph inscriptions
structures, printed graphic are on display, from the great
design compositions and Jewish necropolis which
archaeological material. The used to lie east of the city
exhibition is organised in seven walls. Photographs show the
thematic categories, each one cemetery as it was in 1914.
occupying one floor, as follows:
Space and Time (ground floor), • Jewish history. (1st floor).
Transformations (1 floor),
st It occupies the central area
Monuments and History (2nd with a narrative of the Jewish
floor), Homeland of the people presence in Thessaloniki up
(3rd floor), Along the trade to World War II.
73
routes (4th floor), Leisure and • Folk Art and Life. (1st
Culture (5th floor), Thessaloniki floor). A large array of exhibits
– Flavours (6th floor). The paints a vivid picture of the

84
religious and everyday life those times is on display in

MUSEUMS
of local Jews. Room D; the role played by the
• Holocaust. A special clergy is depicted in Room E;
exhibition area depicts the the Balkan Wars are described
genocide of the approx. 49,000 in Room F; the course of
members of Thessaloniki’s Macedonian history following
Jewish Community, who were the Balkan Wars is in Room G.
sent off to Auschwitz and Costumes and authentic relics
Bergen Belsen concentration from the Balkan Wars Period
camps to be exterminated. (arms, uniforms among other
items), are exhibited in the
• Photography exhibits.
The museum hosts interesting 1st floor, as is a collection of
exhibitions, such as the one miniature vehicles of the Greek
titled Thessaloniki, a Metropolis army.
of the Sephardi Jews by S.
Marks. WAR MUSEUM
Exhibits include objects
MUSEUM OF THE such as uniforms, arms, maps,
MACEDONIAN STRUGGLE battleship effigies, documents
The museum exhibits are and military decorations,
on display in seven rooms on which are connected with the
the ground floor, and show the most significant events of the
main aspects of the history modern Greek history, from the
of Macedonia in the 19th and 1821 War of Independence
early 20th c. during the struggle until the 1944 liberation from
for freedom against the the German Occupation forces.
Ottoman Turks. Greek revolts In the museum’s courtyard you
of that period in Macedonia are will see armoured vehicles,
described in Room A; exhibits fighters and torpedoes used by
related to the Macedonian the Greek Army in the past.
society of the late 19th c. are
in Room B; a reconstruction
of the office of the Greek ATATURK MUSEUM
74
General Consul is in Room C; Exhibits occupy two floors:
the process of recruitment in The 1st floor includes the
the Greek guerilla forces of parlour, the living room, the

85

85 & 86.
(left) The
neoclassical
building of
the Museum
for the
Macedonian
Struggle and
(right) one of
its exhibits.
87.
The building
and grounds
of the War
Museum.
room of Kemal Ataturk’s STATE MUSEUM OF

MUSEUMS
mother and the kitchen. The CONTEMPORARY ART
room where Kemal was born It was inaugurated in 1997
is in the 2nd floor and his
and its major acquisition is
personal items and documents
the Kostakis Collection which
from school are exhibited in
includes pieces representative
separate areas. The largest
of the Russian Avant-Garde
part of the furniture is
art movement which flourished
authentic; there are photos on
in the first three decades of
the walls that refer to various
stages of his life. the 20th c. It comprises 1,277
works of art (e.g. paintings,
sketches, constructions,
FOLKLIFE & ETHNOLOGICAL pottery) crafted by well-known
MUSEUM OF MACEDONIA Russian artists such as K.
-THRACE Malevich, V. Kandinsky, L.
It was founded in 1957 Popova, A. Rodchenko, I. Kliun,
as the Folklife Museum of V. Stepanova, N. Udaltsova,
Northern Greece and took its M. Matiushin and others; it is
current name in 1993. 20,000 one of the richest collections
objects from Macedonia and of its kind in the whole world.
Thrace are on display there, The museum owns an
mostly covering the period extensive archive material on
from 1860 to 1960; there the Russian avant-garde and a
is a major folk art archive remarkable collection of works
(photos, maps, sound and of art by contemporary Greek
image records and other visual artists (K. Giannakos,
items) as well as a special St. Antonakos, G. Vakalo and
library. Among the exhibits others); occasionally it hosts
you will see folk costumes, major temporary exhibitions.
embroidery, woven fabrics, The Thessaloniki Centre
miniature art and woodcraft, of Contemporary Art (located
popular musical instruments, in the port area) is a self-
75
wooden and copper housewares supporting section of the
and figures of the Shadow Museum and hosts temporary
Puppet Theatre. exhibitions of Greek and

86 87
foreign visual artists, it runs collection by Nestor and Aliki

MUSEUMS
educational programmes for Telloglou to the A.U.Th.; in the
adults and children and events course of time the collection
such as one-day meetings, grew larger with donations
workshops etc. by artists and collectors. The
Telloglou donation is the
MACEDONIAN MUSEUM key collection and includes
OF CONTEMPORARY ART statuettes of the Hellenistic
period, Corinthian, Hellenistic
The permanent collection and Roman vessels, Persian
includes 1,800 works of art
miniatures, objects of Arab and
by leading Greek and foreign
Chinese art (vases, banners,
artists; so far, it has hosted
plates) Thai woodcarved items
more than 100 selected
as well as works of art by
exhibitions of Greek and
famous Greek and European
foreign visual artists such
painters and sculptors of the
as Tsarouhis, Hadjikyriakos-
19th and 20th c. It also hosts
Ghika, Tsoklis, Kontoglou,
temporary exhibitions, a
Psychopedis, Akrithakis,
Mytaras, Lazogkas, Varotsos, variety of cultural events and
Warhol, R. & S. Delaunay, educational programmes.
Viallat, Hecker, Greenaway,
and Beckmann among others. MUNICIPAL GALLERY
The museum library counts
over 2,500 titles of specialised Over 1,000 works of art
issues on painting, sculpture, are on display in the gallery
engraving, architecture and and they are classified in 4
photography and it has been collections as follows: The
credited a number of prominent most important one is titled
publications. Thessalonian Artists and it
includes pieces of art by local
visual artists referring to the
TELOGLION FOUNDATION period from 1898 to 1967
OF ART AUTh [Aristotle (P. Reggos, N. Fotakis, Chr.
76 University of Thessaloniki] Lefakis, N. Gavriil Pentzikis,
It was founded in 1972, K. Lachas, G. Svoronos among
following a donation of an art others); the Modern Greek Art

88 89

88.
The Society for
Macedonian
Studies
houses a most
interesting
Gallery.
89.
Casa Bianca
houses the
Municipal
Gallery of
Thessaloniki.
90.
The
Thessaloniki
Cinema
Museum.
collection includes works of art 1989 and has, ever since,

MUSEUMS
by leading Greek Artists; the been organising major painting,
Byzantine and Postbyzantine sculpture, photography and
Icons collection is related to architecture exhibitions in
the school of Thessaloniki collaboration with other local
and spans 5 centuries (14th educational and cultural
-19th c.); and a collection of agencies. Events related to
360 pieces of art on Greek the history of the city and
Engraving. Retrospective the greater area also take
exhibitions of Greek and place there. The collection
foreign artists are frequently includes approx. 250 pieces
arranged in collaboration with on painting, sculpture, pottery,
art foundations in Greece and mosaics, murals and
abroad. engraving.

GALLERY OF THE
SOCIETY FOR THESSALONIKI CINEMA
MACEDONIAN STUDIES MUSEUM
It was created in 1997
It is housed on the top floor
and the opening coincided
of the Theatre Building of
with the European Capital
the S.M.S. and it is the first
of Culture events which were
visual arts museum in the city.
hosted by Thessaloniki that
It encompasses 300 pieces
year. It is closely related
of art (painting, sculpture
to the city history, as the
and engraving) by famous
Thessaloniki International Film
Greek and foreign artists,
Festival has been taking place
mostly from northern Greece,
in the city since 1960 (see p.
who represent the major art
108). Exhibits tell the history
movements of the 20th c.
of the Greek cinema and are
classified in six timelines,
CULTURAL CENTRE OF namely Manakia brothers,
THESSALONIKI (NATIONAL 1900-1940, 1940-1960,
BANK OF GREECE 77
1960-1970, 1970-1990,
CULTURAL FOUNDATION) and 1990 and beyond. Among
It opened to the public in the items on display are rare

90
cinema projectors, old films, OLYMPIC MUSEUM

MUSEUMS
photographic material on It was inaugurated in
Greek and foreign actors, film 1998 as the Sports Museum
advertisement and newsreels of Thessaloniki and the
dating to 1910. The museum original collection comprised
runs educational programmes objects coming from a
for children and young people
number of sports events
up to the age of 18, as well
(Balkan, Mediterranean,
as remarkable temporary
exhibitions. European, World and Olympic
Games), offered by greek
sports federations, athletes,
PHOTOGRAPHY journalists and others, in order
MUSEUM, THESSALONIKI to preserve and promote
It was founded in 1997 and sports material of historical
it remains the only state-run importance. In January 2008,
museum of photography in the International Olympic
Greece. Photographic objects Committee changed the
exceeding 100,000 refer name to Olympic Museum
to the period 1890-1980 and since then collections
and include works of art by focus on objects related with
top Greek photographers the Olympic and Paralympic
(Sok. Iordanidis, G. Games such as costumes,
Stylianos, D. Letsios, a equipment, torches, medals,
section of K. Balafas and souvenirs and published items.
Nelly’s archives, and the
Greek part of F. Boissonas’
archive. The Museum often ‘CHRISTOS TSIGGIRIDIS’
runs temporary exhibitions RADIO MUSEUM
and every other year it Exhibits include some of
organises the PhotoΒiennale the equipment used by Chr.
International Photography Tsiggiridis (1877 – 1947),
Festival (www.photobiennale. the founder of the first radio
78 gr). Furthermore, a variety station in the Balkans, old
of other events are hosted material from Macedonia Radio
such as discourse events and Station, apparatus used by
educational programmes. the army as well as equipment

91

91.
The
Thessaloniki
Olympic
Museum.
92.
NOESIS –
Thessaloniki
Science
Centre and
Technology
Museum.
from amateur stations in opened in 1997 and it was

MUSEUMS
town. Photographic material housed in a traditional building
and voice archives comprising in Ano Poli quarter (see p. 47),
extracts from speeches of until 2009 when it was destroyed
major personalities in the by fire. It is currently housed
Modern Greek history are also in the Cultural Centre of the
on display. Municipality of Thessaloniki
and targets the 4-12 age group,
through special programmes
WATER MUSEUM on games, entertainment and
The museum is housed in education; seminars addressed
three restored buildings and to students and teachers get
the surrounding grounds, also organised there.
covering a total area of 3,000
m2. The main building (pump
room) contains pumping NOESIS SCIENCE CENTRE
machinery, motors and AND TECHNOLOGY
power-generating machines, MUSEUM
old power distribution panels The Centre’s core part is the
and a piece of steam-driven Technology Museum and the
machinery, in the multi-use three special education rooms.
room (old boiler-room) The Technology Museum
there is an impressive array houses three exhibitions
of old steam boilers; in the as follows:
management building there
is a library with specialised • Ancient Greek
volumes on water and hydraulic Technology. Specimens of
works as well as an archive of Ancient Greek technology
rare historical maps, old water- elements and achievements
supply plans and photographs. are exhibited in the form of
In the Water Park there are exact copies of items related
old pumping machinery and to everyday life, construction,
pipelines on display. shipbuilding, mechanics,
metric and so on.
79
• Technopark. It showcases
CHILDREN’S MUSEUM 50 interactive exhibits on
This multi-theme museum electricity, magnetism, optics,

92
mechanics and so on, which Furthermore, Noesis

MUSEUMS
lay emphasis on the visitor’s organises educational
active participation as well as programmes on Renewable
on learning and having fun Sources of Energy and
at the same time. Science Shows to further
• Car Exhibition. explicate the laws of Physics
Old car models that have and Chemistry.
been the most popular
productions in the history of
the automobile industry can GEROVASSILIOU WINE
be seen here. MUSEUM
This outstanding museum
The education rooms are has been open since 2008
the following: in the winery’s grounds where
• Planetarium. This the vineyards spread in a
160-seat room has a domed 56-hectare area, affording
screen (the dome is visible on a fine view of the greater
the outside as well). Visitors area and Thermaic Gulf. The
can watch educational and museum collections are
recreational films such as The arranged in seven categories:
Earth and me, Wonders of the
Universe and others. • Introduction. The
wine-making history of the
• Cosmotheatre. This film Gerovassiliou family is shown
theatre features the largest flat as well as the stages of the
screen in Southeast Europe museum’s creation.
(23X17 m.). Movies such as
Dinosaurs and Beyond the skies • The journey of the wine.
are screened here (Room A). A depiction is made
of the course of wine across the
• Virtual Reality Simulator. ages and the vessels for carrying
The spectator wears 3-D
it since the ancient times.
glasses, boards a small wagon
and enjoys an on-the-go • Wine and food. (Room
80 simulation experience of A). Combinations of food and
various types such as flight, wine from the vineyards are on
deep-sea voyage and tours display in three-dimensional
in imaginary worlds. depictions.

93

93.
Interior view
of Noesis
Museum.
94.
Entrance to the
Gerovassiliou
Wine Museum.
95 & 96. The
Gerovassiliou
Wine Museum:
(left) part of
the impressive
collection of
corkscrews;
(right) part of
the collection
of wine-making
equipment.
MUSEUMS
94

• Stories with corkscrews. words chosen from the glossary


(Room A). Over 2,500 of viticulture and wine-making
corkscrews are shown, dating appears on touch screens.
to the 16th – 20th c., coming • Wine stories (Room B).
from the wine-maker’s The economic, social and
personal collection known to symbolic importance of wine
be one of the largest in the through history is depicted
world. The collection’s main here; tools and vessels
part is divided in mechanical connected with the traditional
and non-mechanical openers, wine-making process are also
yet they are also classified on display.
according to whether they
were used by men or women, • Moments (Room B).
following the consumer habits, Scenes from films and photos
the fashion and artistic trends related to wine production
of each time. Explanatory texts and consumption appear
and photographs complement on screen. 81
exhibited items. For information on
• Words (Room A). A list of museums, see p. –

95 96
DAY EXCURSIONS
Thessaloniki lies in the centre among the Hellenic City
centre of a wide area that is States. In 168 BC when the
extremely interesting from Macedonians were defeated in
an archaeological, historical the battle of Pydna, Pella was
and natural point of view; conquered by the Romans.
there are countless options for It gradually declined and got
outdoor activities, relaxing and eventually deserted in the 1st
entertainment. For instance, century BC. Among the finds
you can combine your stay of the greatest value are the
in town with a day excursion exquisite mosaic floors in the
to renowned archaeological buildings, which manifest the
sites and places of historical high standard of living enjoyed
interest, to fascinating towns by the residents.
and great natural reserves
or to areas offering recreation
or relaxation. MUST SEE:
Houses. Most town houses
1 ANCIENT PELLA were spacious, with an inner

Inhabited since the Late central yard, a peristyle and
Helladic period, the area rich decorations. The House
flourished when Archelaos, of Dionysus (4th c. BC) was
the Macedon king, moved named after the mosaic which
the capital of the Macedonian depicts god Dionysus on a
state from Aiges (Vergina) to panther, holding a thyrsos [a
Pella (late 5th – early 4th c. BC). staff of giant fennel], another
The then seaside town grew mosaic shows a griffin rending
larger during the reign of King a deer. The House of the
Philip II (his son, Alexander Snatching of Helen, (325-
the Great, was born here) 300 BC) contains mosaics
and grew even larger later picturing Theseus abducting
82 during the rule of Cassander. Helen, as well as scenes of
By the mid-2nd century BC it an Amazonomachy [a battle
had evolved into the greatest between the Greeks and the
political, financial and cultural Amazons] and deer hunting.

1.2 1
1.1 5.1
5.2 5

2.1
2

3.2 4
97.
The Pella
Archaeological
site: the
restored
peristyle 3
[colonnaded
courtyard] 3.1
in House A.
Agora. This building Excavations on the site

DAY EXCURSIONS
complex dates to the 4th c. brought to light rock hewn cist
BC; it occupied a 70,000 m2 graves which date back to the
area and used to be the period from the Copper Age to
administrative, commercial, the Classical times; at a short
cultural and artistic hub of distance from it there is a
the town. In the centre there chamber tomb (4th -2nd c. BC).
was a large court surrounded Alexander the Great
by arcades and rooms where Bathhouse. On the way to
all kinds of commercial shops Giannitsa town, you will see
and workshops, as well as this bathing facility of the
the Public Archives were Hellenistic times.
to be found.
Archaeοlogical Museum.
Temples. Excavations This modern museum is
have unearthed the Temple among the most interesting
of the Mother of Gods and ones in Northern Greece.
of Aphrodite (4th c. BC), Exhibits are grouped in 5
the Temple of Darron (2nd c. principal thematic categories:
BC) and the round-shaped in the first one, exhibits
Thesmoforio, a name given relate to the daily life of
to temples dedicated to
the Pella residents (mosaics,
goddess Demeter; it is located
wall decorations, objects
in the modern town area.
of everyday use and so on);
Palace. It lies on the in the second one, the public
northernmost hill and covers life is depicted with finds
a 60,000 m2 area. You will mostly from the Agora area;
reach it via the modern town. in the third one, objects used
The earlier buildings date to in the temples are on display
the 2nd half of the 4th c. BC; and information is given on
complementary constructions the local religious practices;
were added later. In the in the fourth one, there are
centre there was a peristyle finds from the cemeteries and
surrounding the courtyard, in the fifth one, focus is placed
a propylaeum, and the royal on the architectural design and
quarters were on the north side. 83
structuring of the palace, as
Eastern cemetery. It is well as on the life of Alexander
located east of the town. the Great. An interesting film

97

5.6
5.4
5.3 5.5

4.1
on the area’s history is shown teacher and spiritual father.

DAY EXCURSIONS
in a special room. Some of the greatest ottoman
1.1 Military Museum
monuments in Greece are
to be found in Giannitsa.
of the Balkan Wars.
Visit the mausoleum of Gazi
It is located in Gefyra village, Evrenos (1417, reconstructed
25km NW of Thessaloniki, and in the 19th c.), a two-
it is housed in the mansion storey rectangular elegantly
of J. Modiano (1906, P. decorated building, which
Arrigoni). This is where the
Greek army headquarters were was recently renovated and
set up by Constantine, the is currently used as a cultural
then heir to the Greek throne, events venue. Within a short
on October 24-27, 1912; distance (on Strantzis St.) lie
the final negotiations with the 14th century hamam of
the Turks about surrendering Gazi Evrenos (a.k.a. Kaiafa
Thessaloniki took place on that bathhouse) which is the oldest
spot. Rare relics are on display ottoman monument in town,
such as maps, uniforms, arms, the impressive 25-metre-
medals, documents, items of high clock-tower (1668)
daily use, and so on, as well and a bit further to the north
as photos and paintings with (on Strantzis St.) lies the
similar subjects. The mansion two-storey mausoleum of
grounds are decorated with Ahmet Bey Evrenosoglou
authentic furniture of that (the grandson of Evrenos), a
time so as to provide a faithful construction of the 2nd half
depiction of the then style. of the 15th century. Iskender
1.2 Giannitsa. Bey mosque (1511) at the
This modern town has a town entrance and Seyh Ilahi
population of 35,000 and lies mosque (15th c.) located in
10 km W of Ancient Pella. Kapsali army camp are two
The place used to be a sacred other very interesting ottoman
town for the Muslims since places of worship. At a short
this is the burial place of Gazi distance from Giannitsa, you
84 Evrenos [Gazi Evren Bey], one will find some lovely green
of the major Ottoman army areas with flowing waters,
commanders, as well as of where outdoor activities
Seyh Abdullah al Ilahi, his can be practiced. These are:

98
98 & 99.
The Pella
Archaeological
Museum:
(left) mosaic
floor with
representation
of a lion
hunting scene
[325-200 BC];
(right) marble
head of
Alexander the
Great (325-
300 BC].
100.
Entrance to
the Royal
Tombs of
Vergina.
Aravissou springs (15 km situated in the centre of

DAY EXCURSIONS
NW) where you can enjoy a the area which was called
meal at the local tavernas; “Macedonian Land” by
the artificial Platanopotamos Herodotus [an ancient Greek
Lake, near Agrosykia village, Historian]. The first magnificent
(17 km NE) where you palaces of the Macedonian
can visit the ruins of Pelit Kings were built here and
fortress, dating to the times the foundations of the great
of Alexander the Great, and Macedon State were laid at
Profitis Ilias country chapel; that time. It was the sacred
and the recreation area in town of the Macedonians
Dytiko plane-tree forest (3.5 and remained so after the
km NE of Agrosykia village). 5th c. BC as Aiges was the
place of origin of the Royal
House of Argeades whose
How to get there. Ancient members were thought to be
Pella is located 40 km W of descendants of the House
Thessaloniki. If you go by car, of Timenides and Hercules.
take the national road towards In 168 BC the town was
Edessa town and then follow destroyed by the Romans and
the signs that will lead you finally got deserted in the 1st
to the archaeological site. To c. AD. On the grounds of its
reach the military Museum of importance, the archaeological
Balkan Wars, take the 68 bus site has been included in the
departing from the station at UNESCO World Heritage List
the horseshoe-shaped point as a Multiple Thematic Focus
on Aristotelous Street (where Museum.
Aristotelous and Egnatia
Streets meet).
MUST SEE:
Royal Tombs. In 1977,
2 VERGINA the archaeologist Manolis
(AIGES or AIGAI) Andronikos unearthed the
As far back as the 10th -8th royal tombs inside a big earth
c. BC Aiges was already a great mound (Megali Toumpa -
town and the capital of the Great Tumulus). The tombs 85
Macedon state until the 5th BC and the mound interior have
when King Archelaos moved been restructured into an
the capital to Pella. It was amazing museum where the

99 100
armosphere is particularly IV, son of Alexander the

DAY EXCURSIONS
emotive as the place is dark Great and Roxanne, who was
with selective lighting on the assassinated by Cassander in
exhibits. Past the entrance 310 BC; a silver urn containing
there are funerary steles, the bones of the dead person,
finds from tombs of locals framed with the ivory relief
of that time and the ruins motifs of the funeral bed.
of a 3rd c. BC tomb (tomb In a separate room, visitors
IV), consisting of parts of can watch a video where M.
walls and pillars as well as the Andronikos takes them on a
façade’s superstructure. Next tour of the monuments. Other
is the Memorial, a monument excavations in the wider area
dedicated to the memory of of the Aiges necropolis have
distinguished persons and unearthed archaic tombs, pit
after that there is a cist tomb and cist tombs (6th and 5th c.
(tomb I of Persephone) that BC), as well as temple-shaped
belonged to one of the wives macedonian tombs one of
of Philip II. In the next section which apparently belonged
lie the tomb of King Philip to Queen Eurydice, the mother
II with exquisite murals and of King Philip II
friezes on display as well as Palace. It covers a 12,500
arms and his suit of armour m2 area and it used to be
decorated with gold; the the largest and the most
remains of the funeral pyre; important construction (next
the gold larnax that weighs to Parthenon, Athens) of the
11 kg and contained the bones Hellenic Classical Antiquity.
and the golden oak wreath This two-storeyed edifice
of the dead king, decorated is presumed to be the work
with the macedonian star (or of Pytheos who was the
Vergina Sun); the gold larnax architect of the Mausoleum
of the royal wife; the cloth of Halicarnassos [modern-day
embroidered with gold threads Bodrum, Turkey], one of the 7
which covered the two larnakes wonders of the ancient world.
(chest-shaped coffins); and The palace’s architectural style
86 the two gold and ivory beds. is considered avant-garde for
The last part consists of that time and it was built of
what is believed to have limestone during the 2nd half
been the tomb of Alexander of the 4th c. BC on a plateau;

101

101, 102 &


103.
The Royal
Tombs of
Vergina: (left)
the golden
larnax of
Meda, wife of
King Philip II;
(middle) the
King’s burial
place; (right)
the urn bearing
the gold wreath
of Alexander IV.
this made it visible from short distance, dating to the

DAY EXCURSIONS
any point of the surrounding 2nd c. BC.
area. The palace interior Acropolis. Excavations have
included a large peristyle brought to light five towers
surrounding the courtyard of that were part of the Acropolis,
the palace and a propylaeum and at a short distance there
(a monumental gateway), a are ruins of the 3-metre
temple dedicated to Hercules thick fortification walls; in
Patroos [Macedonians believed the vicinity you will see the
Hercules was their Ancestor], remains of house foundations
luxury rooms paved with dating to the period from the
mosaic floors, and reserved for 5th to the 1st c. BC.
symposia, as well as auxiliary
rooms (stables, warehouses
and so on).
2.1 Veroia.
Theatre. It was built circa
340 BC, north of the Palace, This beautiful and historic
and is one of the oldest stone town in the North of Greece
theatres of the Hellenic World. is located 8 km NW of Vergina.
It contained nine rows of seats It used to be the second most
and today the foundations are important town for ancient
all that’s left of the stage. King Macedonians, after Aiges;
Philip II was assassinated here prosperity times went on
in 336 BC. during the Roman and the
Byzantine period. Veroia was
Temples. The religious site one of the places visited by
dedicated to goddess Euclea Apostle Paul and a Podium
(4th c. BC) is to be found near was constructed in 1995
the theatre. It comprises to commemorate this event.
two temples, an altar, a stoa, In the past the town was also
a building with a peristyle, known as Little Jerusalem
and the remaining bases of because of the numerous
royal votive offerings, with Byzantine and post-byzantine
inscriptions. Closeby, you churches out of which more
will see the temple of Kyveli than 50 have survived. There
[Cybele] (2nd half of the 4th c. is also a centuries-old Jewish 87
BC), the mother of the gods; presence in town; Barbouta
a building of the Hellenistic (on the banks of Tripotamos
period was unearthed at a River) is today the only

102 103
Jewish quarter in Europe, Olympian Zeus and the Muses

DAY EXCURSIONS
which maintains a traditional [daughters of Zeus] here.
character in its entirety. It Athletic and theatrical games
is worth taking a walk and were established here in the 5th
visiting the Roman, Ottoman c. BC (called “Olympia Games
and Industrial age monuments in Dion”); later on, the town
in the traditional districts of was built next to the sacred
Kyriotissa, Panagia Dexia, and grounds, gradually acquiring
Makariotissa; you can also visit a monumental status during
the Public Central Library which the Hellenistic times, and
has earned an international managed to keep its splendour
award, or relax in the parks until the 5th c. AD when it was
and squares. finally deserted due to intense
seismic activity in the area.
How to get there. MUST SEE:
Vergina is about 63 km SW
of Thessaloniki. If you travel by Vafyras sacred springs.
car, follow the signs to Veroia This place was selected to
and after that to Vergina. You become Zeus’ worship grounds
can also take the intercity bus on account of the area’s many
or the train to reach Veroia springs, as Zeus was originally
and then take the local bus worshipped as the god of
to Vergina. weather and rain. Their waters
flowed into Vafyras River which
was navigable in antiquity
3 DION and connected Dion with
This most enchanting the Thermaic Gulf.
archaeological site is The temple of Demeter.
located under the imposing It is a complex of buildings
Olympus mountain range, in constructed from the 6th c. BC
a 150-hectare green area amid until the Roman times.
flowing waters coming from
Vafyras River and from other Sanctuary of Zeus
springs; it is the habitat of Hypsistos [Almighty].
88 many species of birds, reptiles It lies in the north side of a
and amphibians. This used to spacious square and the altar
be a sacred place to ancient is situated in front of it. Copies
Macedonians who worshipped of the worshipped statue and

104

104, 105 &


106.
The Dion
Archaeological
site: (left)
the Great
Thermae;
(middle)
view of the
sanctuary
of Demeter;
(right) detail
from a house
mosaic.
bases of sculptures depicting period, in the 3rd c. BC. Part

DAY EXCURSIONS
eagles have been placed on of the Olympos Festival artistic
their original positions. events take place here today in
Sanctuary of Isis. the theatron [auditorium] where
modern tiers have been added
This is probably the most to accommodate viewers.
fascinating temple in the area
as it is half-sunk in water. Sanctuary of Asklipios.
It was dedicated to the Egyptian It was built in the 4th -3rd
goddess whose worship c. BC and remained open for
replaced that of Artemis during religious services until the 3rd
the Hellenistic times. There is c. AD. The most important
also a small temple dedicated finding is a small marble statue
to Aphrodite Ypolympidia of goddess Hygeia [Health].
[worshipped at the foot of Mt Cemetery Basilica.
Olympus]; copies of statues
found here were placed in their It was built in the 5th c.
original positions. within the town’s Christian
cemetery grounds. It was
Sanctuary of Olympian Zeus. a three-aisled basilica with
The temple became a semi-circular apse, a narthex
complete in the Hellenistic and an atrium.
period. A large altar and Hellenistic and Roman Walls
inscriptions containing official (fortified precincts).
documents by Macedon kings
were found on the spot. Originally constructed by
A horseshoe-shaped Roman Cassander in 306-304 BC,
theatre with 24 rows of this nearly square-shaped
benches was built in the south structure’s dimensions were
edge during the 2nd c. AD, 2,625 m. Length by 3 m.
in the place of the older Width by 7-10 m. Height. It
Hellenistic theatre; a small was reconstructed in 219 BC
bath house (Thermae) was and later in the 3rd c. AD as
found northeast of the it had suffered attacks. In the
sanctuary. SW side there are remains of
a cistern; the best preserved 89
Hellenistic Theatre. Macedonian tomb in the area
It was built on the location of is to be found outside the west
an older theatre of the classical gate.

105 106
Main street. emperors was situated in

DAY EXCURSIONS
This wide stone-paved between the houses. In the
street used to cross the town East side, there is a roman
in the north-south direction. basilica, an area for trade
The marketplace, shops, public and banking transactions,
buildings and houses flanked the Monument of the Shields
the street all along. (with shield and cuirass
depictions) and the Forum
Great Thermae. Thermae.
This complex of public bath
houses covers a 4,000 m2 Polygonal building.
area. The facilities were paved This structure - square
with marble and mosaic floors, on the outside - contained
there were Vespasian urinals, a 12-side courtyard; it covered
entertainment areas, a courtyard, an area of 1,400 m2 and was
shops, a hall for the worship used as a roofed marketplace.
of god Asklipios, and a roofed To the north of the building
Odeon for cultural events. there are relics of the town’s
The Houses of Zosa and Early Christian Walls (365 –
Lida. 380).
Early Christian (episcopal)
Located in the SE section
basilica
of the town, the two houses
used to be decorated with The original church was
mosaic floors and sculpted a three-aisled basilica which
busts. was destroyed in the 4th c. and
was rebuilt in the 5th c. with
Roman Forum. an added atrium and baptistery.
It dates back to the late 2nd Praetorium.
– early 3rd c. and comprises
a slab-paved square surrounded The building comprised an
by arcades and public buildings. inn for state officials (called
In the West side there were praetorium) and an inn for
the luxury houses of Epigenis common travellers (called
90 and Evvoulos, decorated with tavernas). Visitors were able to
exquisite mosaics; Sevasteio, use the Main Street Thermae
a temple dedicated to (dating to the imperial Roman
the worship of the Roman period), located south of

107 108

107.
A climbing
route on the
Olympus
National Park.
108.
A general
view of the
imposing
Olympus
mountain
range.
109.
Petralona
Museum:
a depiction
of prehistoric
human activity
inside the cave.
Praetorium and the public It is the first National Park of

DAY EXCURSIONS
toilets (called Vespasians) Greece (1938); in 1981 it was
which were located to the east. designated a World Biosphere
The Hydraulis sector. Reserve area by UNESCO. It
includes 4,500 hectares of
This was a complex of oak, black pine, beech, Bosnian
buildings named after the pine, alpine vegetation, and
copper hydraulis [a type of pipe1,700 species of flora; recorded
organ] found here along with fauna includes 32 species of
a multitude of other copper mammals, 108 species of
items. birds, a great variety of reptile
Villa of Dionysus. and insect species, and an
This urban area house (2nd c.abundance of butterflies. The
AD) is where an amazing mosaic mountain is very popular with
was found, depicting Dionysus hiking and mountaineering fans,
on a chariot coming out there are six refuges and nine
of the sea. mountain routes (which include
part of the E4 European path)
Archaeological Museum. all the way to the highest peaks
Housed in a brand new namely Mytikas and Stefani.
building, the Archaeological 3.2 Ancient Pydna.
Museum showcases finds
from the Dion area (statues, It lies 43 km N of Dion and
inscriptions, artefacts it was built in the 8th – 7th c.
etc) classified in thematic BC. During the 4th c. BC the
groups (public buildings, Macedon king Philip II made
houses, sanctuaries, ancient Pydna the administrative
technology etc), and also finds centre of the district. In 168
from the foot of Mt Olympus BC, Roman troops defeated
and ancient Pydna. The Ancient the Macedonian army near
Relics House lies opposite and the town, and that meant
showcases more recent finds the beginning of Roman rule
from ongoing excavations. in Macedonia. Gradually the
town went into decline and
3.1 Mt. Olympus. was successively occupied by
The highest Greek mountain Bulgarians, western Europeans 91
(2,918 m.) is globally known and Turks, and got eventually
as the residence of the 12 gods deserted in the 15th c.
of ancient Greek mythology. Excavations have unearthed

109
a neolithic settlement which woman who is approximately

DAY EXCURSIONS
is considered to have been 200,000-400,000 years old
the largest in the Hellenic and is classed as a type in
area, a cemetery, two early- between Homo Erectus and
Christian basilicas (4th and Homo Sapiens, according
6th c.) and a 10th c. basilica to palaeoanthopologist A.
with remarkable mosaics and Poulianos. Such evidence
murals. makes this cave one of the
oldest archaeological sites in
How to get there. Europe. Findings from the cave
Dion is situated 87 km SW (tools, animal bones etc) are
of Thessaloniki. Follow the on display at the Museum
national road to Athens and and so are a cast of the skull
then the signs to Katerini and (the original is kept at the
Dion. Alternatively, take the Geology-Palaeontology Museum
coach to Katerini (Pieria district) of the Aristotle University
and then the local bus to Dion. of Thessaloniki, see p. 38) and
a reconstruction of the place
4 PETRALONA CAVE it was found.
4.1 Halkidiki (also
It was discovered in 1959, Chalcidice or Chalkidiki) –
by accident, in the western Agio Oros [Holy Mount].
part of Halkidiki. It is 1,500 Homeland of Aristotle,
m. long (a 400 m. section is the ancient Greek philosopher,
open to visitors); the chambers, Halkidiki is one of the best
the stalagtite and stalagmite and most popular tourist
formations within are very destinations in Greece with
interesting. The location an important history, bustling
became universally known tourist resorts, traditional
when an array of prehistoric villages, enchanting beaches,
items was found in the interior verdant mountains and an
(fossil tree leaves, bones of intense night life. Located
rhinos, elephants, equids, south of Thessaloniki,
hyaenas etc), as well as Halkidiki ends in the three
92 vestiges of human activity such leg-shaped peninsulas named
as traces of fire, stone tools Kassandra, Sithonia and
and so on. However, the most Athos. Thessalonians swarm
important find is the skull of a in Kassandra and Sithonia for

110

110.
One of
Halkidiki’s
numerous
lovely beaches.
111.
Mount
Athos: Agios
Panteleimonas
Monastery.
a day trip (it’s only a short (also Strymonian) gulf

DAY EXCURSIONS
distance from the city) or stretches a 200,000 hectare-
for a longer one; quite a few area around Lakes Koroneia
own country houses there. In and Volvi; the place is a
the Athos peninsula amidst National Park. It is a rare
a beautiful and pristine group of ecosystems with wet
natural environment lies the forests and meadows, rivers
globally known monastic and shrubland, and the ideal
state of Mount Athos which place for outdoor activities
encompasses 20 -presently (horse-riding, mountain biking,
inhabited- monasteries birdwatching, agritourism
(10th – 14th c.), sketes [small and so on); the Agency for
monastic settlements] and the Management of Lakes
cells for monks. UNESCO has Koroneia and Volvi (www.
included the ‘Holy Mount’ in its foreaskv.gr) runs tours in
World Heritage Monument List the area. Make sure you try
in 1988, on grounds of the some of the local delicacies,
outstanding architecture and including lake fish dishes.
the priceless cultural treasures
of the monastic community.
MUST SEE:
How to get there. 5.1 Lagadas.
Petralona Cave is situated This picturesque town
53 km SE of Thessaloniki. Take is situated 20 km NE of
the coach to Halkidiki, get Thessaloniki and has been
off at Nea Kallikrateia Village known for keeping the custom
stop and then take a taxi to of fire-walking (anastenaria)
the cave (approx. a 10-km on May 21st. The ultra modern
journey). If you travel by car, Spa facilities of the area also
go along the Thessaloniki- include two Byzantine bathtubs
Halkidiki national road and (10th and 15th c.) and they
then follow the signs to are located two km E amid
Petralona village and the cave. lush greenery. The sulphur
springs (water temperature:
5 LAKES AREA 39.2ο C) are recommended 93
for treating neuropathy,
Northeast of Thessaloniki, in rheumatism, arthritis, skin and
the direction of Strymonas gynaecological diseases.

111
5.2 Lake Koroneia. 5.4 Lake Volvi.

DAY EXCURSIONS
It is also known as Lake It is the second – in terms
Agios Vasileios or Lagada. It of size – natural lake in Greece
used to cover a 4,600-hectare (39 km E of Thessaloniki),
area in the 1970s with a with a 6,800-hectare area
depth measurement of up to and a depth measument of
8 m. Today however, the body up to 20 m.; this wetland is
of water and its depth depend of great importance and a
on climate conditions, due to Ramsar site. Near Apollonia
the intensive exploitation of there is a location suitable
the area’s water resources. for birdwatching. In the
greater area (Apollonia and
5.3 Nea [New] Apollonia.
Nea Madytos) you will find
The small village on the a water sports club and you
south side of Lake Volvi (56 can practice rowing, sailing,
km NE of Thessaloniki) is a canoe-kayaking and water-
historic area, as an important skiing. Volvi village is a tourist
Macedonian town used to attraction located on the north
exist here in the 5th c. BC. side of the lake, and comprises
The area’s mineral springs the smaller communities
contain hydrogen sulphide, the of Megali Volvi, Mikri Volvi
temperature measures 49ο- and Rentina.
50οC and waters flow into Lake
Volvi. They are recommended 5.5 Rentina.
for the treatment of many Richios River crosses the
types of neuropathy, area and the riverside forest
rheumatism, arthritis, skin is a place of particular natural
and gynaecological complaints. beauty, teeming with flora and
There are hotels, a modern fauna. The ruins of a Byzantine
waterspa facility and a community and a castle can
comprehensive health centre. be seen on an elevation.
In nearby Apollonia, you
5.6 Asprovalta – Nea
will find the Info Centre for
the Koroneia-Volvi Wetlands, Vrasna – Stavros.
94
housing a small exhibition These growing tourist areas
on the lake habitat and the stretch along the beautiful
species living there. beaches on the Strymonian

112 113

112.
Stavros beach.
113.
View of Lake
Volvi from
Nea Apollonia
Thermal
Springs (Spa).
114.
Picturesque
country chapel
in green Stena
Redinas.
gulf. You will find a marine properties known across the

DAY EXCURSIONS
sports and a beach volleyball country - the concentration
facility on Asprovalta beach is three times higher than
(10 km long and awarded a that in the Dead Sea. In the
Blue Flag) and on Nea Vrasna neighbouring Xylokeratia
beach; Stavros is the biggest village you can visit the first
harbour in the gulf. Vrasna Mud-therapy (Spa) Centre
and Ano Stavros villages in the Balkans. There are
are situated at the foot of swimming pools for men
Mt Kerdylia; their traditional and women, 10 personal
architecture makes them hydromassage areas where
absolutely worth visiting. mineral spring water is used,
saunas, a gym and areas
for mud treatment. In the
How to get there. From summer, visitors can enjoy
Thessaloniki, take the 83, a special mud therapy by
83M or 83N bus line to reach the lake shore which gets
Lagkadas. For the other areas, usually dried up during the
travel by coach. If you go warmest season of the year.
by car, head for Panorama, In the grounds you will find
Chortiatis and Agios Vasileios a physiotherapy centre and
(to reach Lake Koroneia) a medical clinic, a hotel, a
and from that point go east restaurant, a bar, basketball
towards Kavala (to visit Lake and football fields.
Volvi and the Strymonian gulf).
How to get there.
6 PIKROLIMNI Pikrolimni is located 23
km N of Thessaloniki. If
It is located in the you travel by car, follow the
neighbouring Kilkis regional signs to Kilkis and after that,
unit, to the south. It is a from Galliko village head
shallow lake (covering a for Xylokeratia (Pikrolimni).
450-hectare area) and in Alternatively there is a bus
the lake floor mud there are from Dimokratias square 95
chemical combinations such (Vardari) leaving daily at 9 am,
as sulphides and nitric salts which will take you to the Mud
with healing and cosmetic Therapy Centre for free.

114
BUYS
BUYS IN THESSALONIKI IN THESSALONIKI
Since Thessaloniki’s Visit also the Hirsch Building
founding days and on account Mall (see p 20) and Plateia
of its location, the town was [Square] Mall (see p. 20).
always seen as a stopover Other interesting shopping
place on the route used for areas, for lower budgets,
East to West trading and vice include Venizelou St. (see p.
versa. Today, the Thessaloniki 20), Egnatia St. (see p. 34)
town centre is the ideal and Agiou Dimitriou St.
destination for those who (see p. 39).
wish to add shopping to Two particularly popular
their travelling experience. shopping centres are:
The traditional roofed and
open-air marketplaces are a) the Mediterranean
well known (see p. 21). You Cosmos Mall (Pylaia area)
will find foodstuffs, spices, where visitors will find
clothes, furniture and small over 200 shops as well
objects in reasonable prices. as cafés, restaurants, a
Make a note of visiting Bit- multiplex, a bowling room,
Pazar (see p. 36) the place a playground area, a 400-
where second-hand and seat amphitheatre and the
antique dealers’ shops are representation of a traditional
to be found. greek village.
The city’s modern b) The Apollonia Politeia
commercial centre (see p. 27) Mall, by the A.S. IKEA bus
is in the area encompassed by station.
Aristotelous Street (see p. 15),
the White Tower (see p. 24) Modern shopping areas
96 and Tsimiski Street. You will with a large variety of
find stylish clothing boutiques, products are to be found
department stores as well in Kalamaria and in most
as decoration and fur shops. of the city suburbs.

115

115.
Plateia Mall in
Tsimiski Street.
116.
You will find an
open air flower
marketplace
called
Louloudadika
in the vicinity of
Pazar (Yahoudi)
Hamami.
117.
Most arcades
in the city
house quite
a few popular
restaurants
and bars.
NIGHTLIFE

NIGHTLIFE
Thessaloniki is well known the traditional town market
for the intense nightlife and places (see p. 21), the bars and
the diverse options offered the cosy, elegant restaurants
to visitors. Some say that lining the bustling city streets
this is the greek ‘capital’ of (see p. 27), as well as the area
entertainment as many trends between Zefxidos and Iktinou
and new fashions spread Streets (see p. 28). The
out from this town in the numerous students living in
last decades and were later town prefer to hang out in the
adopted across the country. area about Navarinou square
Ranking high in the list of (see p. 28), Rotonta [Rotunda]
options are the numerous bars (see p. 37) and Angelaki
(most of them with an avant- Street (see p. 32) as well as
garde design), tavernas, ouzo in Bit-Pazar area and the
restaurants (called ouzeri), streets around it (see p. 36).
modern cuisine restaurants, Tavernas, ouzo-restaurants,
clubs with live greek music, and small café-bars, located in
particularly those playing Ano Poli (see p. 42), are some
rebetiko - a typical genre of of the alternative places where
greek popular music which Thessalonians love to hang
grew to new heights in this out. In recent years, the area
town – seaside bars and music around Valaoritou Street (see
stages. p. 23) has become a nightlife
In the city centre, Ladadika hotspot; in the evening -
(see p. 18) has been a particularly during the summer
favourite nightlife area months – people swarm the
since the early 1990s; the area, the restaurants, and
neighbouring Kalapothaki music venues!
Street (see p. 17), the cafés West of the harbour
and bars by the old beachfront (Slaughterhouse area, see
(see p. 16) and the modern p. 60), there are huge venues
restaurants and bars housed for live Greek music (also 97
in the historic city arcades all known as bouzoukia) and the
add to the picture. Worthy of biggest clubs in town, as well
notice are also the tavernas in as multi-purpose cultural

116 117
NIGHTLIFE
118

98

facilities. During the summer Dasous] and the Theatre


months though, most of of the Earth [Theatro Gis]
those clubs and venues move (see p. 48); or you can opt for a
to open-air grounds in the visit to museums (see p. 70-81)
airport area (see p. 106). and smaller cultural venues. Last
Another favourite area to but not least, you can visit the
Thessalonians is Kalamaria International Film Festival,
(see p. 64) and, a bit further the Thessaloniki Book Fair, the
118. off, Peraia (see p. 67). Demetria Festival (see p. 108-
Ladadika is Apart from the 109), and other venues housing
among the entertainment options, events on a smaller scale by
top areas for a host of artistic events private companies or city
entertainment get organised in the city agencies.
in Thessaloniki. throughout the entire Finally, the Thessaloniki
year: choose among the Regency Casino is located
119 & 120. Thessaloniki Concert Hall at the 12th km on the
Two typical [Megaro] (see p. 52), the Thessaloniki – Airport Road
traditional Vasiliko [Royal] Theatre and is open around the clock.
products of (see p. 25), the Theatre of Entrance is allowed to people
Thessaloniki: the Society for Macedonian aged 25 and older; an identity
koulouri Studies (see p. 25 & 109), or passport is required. (tel.
and trigona Moni Lazariston (see p. 61), 2310.491.234, website:
Panoramatos. the Forest Theatre [Theatro www.regencycasinos.gr).
GASTRONOMY AND WINES

GASTRONOMY AND WINES


Thessaloniki has a great souvlaki, patsa, a variety of
culinary tradition which has soup, pies, Anatolian dishes
become an intrinsic part (tzigerosarmades, giaprakia,
of the character and mentality gardoumpes, kebab etc),
of the locals. The city’s multi- lake and sea fish, seafood
cultural character across the delicacies (mussel pilaf,
ages has added an indelible saganaki with shrimps, stuffed
stamp on its traditional cuisine calamari etc). Confectionery
which includes Byzantine, is also an important part
Christian, Ottoman influences of local gastronomy and it
and elements contributed by features the renowned syrupy
the large numbers of Minor cakes and pastry originating
Asia refugees who flowed in from Istanbul (ekmek kadayifi,
the town during the 1920s, kazandibi, tulumba etc) the
and also Jewish and western well-known bougatsa [filled
European influences, thus either with cheese or with
creating unique culinary cream], galaktompoureko
combinations. Downtown (see [a type of pastry filled with
p. 15-41), in Ano Poli (see p. custard], and last but not least
42 - 49) and in the seaside trigona Panoramatos [a cone-
suburbs and city outskirts (see shaped syrupy cream-filled puff
p. 63 - 69), the traditional pastry] (see p. 65). Koulouri
tavernas, ouzo restaurants and Thessalonikis is also worthy
luxury restaurants highlight the
of mention. It is a sesame-
local traditional gastronomy
covered piece of bread and
often creatively mixing it with
an everyday snack for locals,
gourmet tastes.
which you can find in the
Thessaloniki’s gastronomy morning hours sold by street
can boast some pretty vendors or at the baker’s.
99
impressive delicacies During the winter months, you
[mezedes] such as gyro [slices can try salep, an interesting
of meat roasted on a spit] and hot beverage.

119 120
Thessaloniki Wines. titled “Wine Roads of North
Macedonia has a long Greece” (www.wineroads.gr).
tradition on wine-making, It is about an excursion taken
as the district can boast to the most interesting parts
some of the most renowned of the viticultural zone; this is
Greek vineyards. In the area combined with a visit to the
surrounding the town, a wide archaeological and historical
range of varieties are grown assets of those areas, with
such as Roditis, Asyrtiko, countryside activities, as
Malagouzia, Sauvignon well as a visit to wineries
Blanc, Chardonnay, Voignier, and degustation. Make sure
Syrah, Merlot, Grenache you visit the impressive
Rouge, Limnio, Mavroudi, Gerovassiliou Wine Museum
Mavrotragano, Xinomavro, in Epanomi (see p. 68 & 80).
Cabernet Sauvignon, Athiri and
Malvasia. The Wine Producers For more information,
Association of Northern contact the Wine Roads
Greece Vineyards, under the of North Greece: tel: 2310
trade name Wines of Northern 281.617 and 2310 281.632,
Greece, realises a programme www.winesofnorthgreece.gr

TOURING THESSALONIKI
WITH CHILDREN
Thessaloniki’s relatively starting from the harbour
small size - for a city – (see p. 17), past the White
makes it a particularly friendly Tower area (see p. 24) and up
place for children and offers a to the Concert Hall (see p. 52)
host of activities for them. or visit the Theme Parks of
100 Go on a bicycle ride the new (east) seafront [Nea
along the town’s bike lanes, Anatoliki Paralia] (see p. 50)
especially by the waterfront, where there are playgrounds

121 122

121, 122 &


123.
Thessaloniki
offers its little
visitors a host
of fun activities
and games to
choose from.
and sports facilities. the Mammoth Museum where

TOURING THESSALONIKI WITH CHILDREN


Tour the suburban forests fossils of the hairy mammoth
of Seich Sou (see p. 47) and are on display, the Cave where
Chortiatis (see p. 66) where there are depictions of creation
you can follow the hiking trails and prehistoric life in caves
or go mountain biking, find the as well as the Interactive
spots designated for sports Museum of Greek Traditional
activities or just relax by the Toys and Games
Deltas of Gallikos river and (www.parkodeinosauron.gr).
Axios-Loudias-Aliakmonas Another option for you
rivers (see p. 63) or by the is to go swimming in the
lakes Koroneia and Volvi beautiful beaches by the
(see p. 93-94). seaside suburbs and city
There are some quite outskirts (see p. 63-69), in
interesting educational places within the regional
programmes for children, unit of Thessaloniki (see p.
running in most museums 91-95), and in Halkidiki (see
(see p. 70 - 81), particularly p. 92). You can also visit the
in the Children’s Museum Magic Park (12th km on the
(see p. 79) which is the only one Thessaloniki – Airport Road),
of its kind. the biggest amusement park
Have fun and at the same in Greece, which attracts
time get familiar with science children, teenagers, grown-
and technology at the Noesis ups and families alike
– Science Centre and (www.magicpark.gr); the
Technology Museum (see p. WaterLand is another
67) or at the Nouvelle multi- fun option as there are
purpose venue (7th km on the waterpools, waterslides
Thessaloniki – Oraiokastro of various sizes, with different
Road) where you can visit the levels of difficulty, restaurants
Environmental Dinosaur Theme and mini markets. It is 101
Park and see the natural size located in Tagarades,
reconstructions of animals, Thermi area, (see p. 66).

123
INFORMATION
GENERAL FACTS • Independence Day and
Religious Feast of the
Greece is on Europe’s southeast Annunciation to the Virgin
end with a population of Mary: March 25th.
10,788,000. It is a parliamentary • Easter Celebrations: From
republic and a member of the Good Friday to Easter Monday.
European Union since 1981. On Good Friday afternoon every
Thessaloniki is located 510 church prepares the Epitaphios
km N of Athens. It is the second which is an embroidered cloth
biggest city in the country and the icon of Christ prepared for burial,
biggest in Northern Greece; it is lying on a low table adorned with
also the capital of the Thessaloniki flowers. Later in the evening,
Regional Unit as well as of the Epitaphios is placed at the head of
Region of Central Macedonia. a procession and it is followed by
It is situated within the inlet of the church congregation; people
the Thermaic Gulf and the city hold lit candles and chant as they
population is over 1 million. walk the streets of their town or
Currency. Since January 1st 2001 village – this happens throughout
the euro is the Greek national the country on Good Friday.
currency. You can change money • Resurrection of Christ: Mass
at the airport, in private exchange is celebrated at midnight before
offices, or in banks. Easter Sunday with fireworks and
Calling code. The international burning candles.
calling code for Greece is +30. • Easter Sunday: It is
Time. Greece is seven hours customary for Greeks to have
ahead of the Eastern Standard a meal of lamb roasted on the
Time, two hours ahead of spit, that day. Celebrations
Greenwich Mean Time and include singing and dancing
one hour ahead of the Central throughout the entire day.
European Time. • May 1st (Labour Day):
Climate. Thessaloniki has Flower festivals take place in
a temperate mediterranean Thessaloniki.
climate with continental features • Dormition of Theotokos
and quite a few sunshiny days [Mother of God]:
102 throughout the year. The average August 15 .
th

monthly temperature is as • October 26th – 28th:


follows: A three-day celebration
commemorating the liberation
Month Temperature (in C) of the city from the Turkish rule,
Ο

January 5 and a religious feast in honour


February 6 of Saint Demetrius [Agios
March 9 Dimitrios], the patron saint of
April 12,5 the city, on October 26th. A
May 17,5 military parade takes place on
June 22 October 28th to commemorate
July 23,5 the beginning of Greek
August 24 participation in World War II.
September 20,5 • Christmas:
October 16 December 25th – 26th.
November 10
6 NATIONAL RELIGIOUS
OTHER TRADITIONAL
FESTIVALS
AND BANK HOLIDAYS
• Carnival: Carnival events last
• New Year’s Day: January 1st for 3 weeks and end on Shrove
• Epiphany: January 6th. Waters Monday. Celebrations are organised
are sanctified: the Cross is in many areas of the region.
thrown into the sea and young • Pentecost: A feast celebrated
men dive to catch it. 50 days after Easter.
• Shrove Monday: 41 days
before Easter. This is the day EMBASSIES – CONSULATES
when fasting begins. On that day
the Greeks fly kites, eat Lenten For information on the
meals and enjoy the celebrations Consulates of foreign countries
(called koulouma). in Thessaloniki, contact
the GNTO [Greek National

INFORMATION
EMERGENCY PHONE NUMBERS
Tourism Organisation] office in
Thessaloniki or: Police (Hellenic Police):
• The Ministry of Foreign Thessaloniki Police
Affairs Headquarters – Foreigners
1, Vasilissis Sofias Av. (Athens), Department:
tel: 210 36.81.000 326, Monastiriou St.,
fax: 210 36.81.717 call centre: 2310 388.000
website: www.mfa.gr Flying Squad [Amesi Drasi]:
tel.: 100
ACRONYMS Traffic Police:
26, Margaropoulou St.
Here is a list of Greek acronyms tel.: 2310 557.541
you may see while visiting Highway Police:
Thessaloniki: Malgara toll station
E.O.T. (G.N.T.O.): Greek National tel.: 23910 21.450-1
Tourism Organisation ELPA Roadside Assistance:
E.L.P.A.: Roadside Assistance tel.: 10400
EL.TA.: Greek Post Office Fire Brigade:
tel.: 199
K.T.E.L.: Intercity Bus Service
Medical care:
O.A.S.TH.: Urban Bus Service
Instant Aid Centre:
O.S.E.: Greek Railway Services tel.: 166
Organisation
Emergency hospitals,
O.T.Ε.: Greek Telecommunication pharmacies, doctors:
Services tel.: 14944 (in Greek)
Medical Information in English
ELECTRIC CURRENT and Greek:
tel.: 210 89.83.146
The 220V (50Hz) alternating
current is in use in Greece. SOS Doctors: tel.: 1016
National Centre for Blood
Donation:
INTERNET tel.: 210 24.10.000
Use the free wireless internet Social and psychological help:
connection spots offered in tel.: 197 (24-hour service)
the town centre (in Kamara, 103
Aristotelous square and TOURIST INFORMATION
elsewhere), in public places
(museums, bookshops, cafés, Greek National Tourism
bars, restaurants and so on) and Organisation (G.N.T.O.)
in suburbian areas (for instance Regional Tourism Service
Kalamaria and Evosmos). You will of Central Macedonia:
also find internet cafés in most 136, Tsimiski St.
districts and suburbs. (Y.M.C.A.-new building)
tel.: 2310 252.170 (call centre),
2310 221.100
POST OFFICE (information desk)
The Post Office logo is blue mail: tour-the@otenet.gr
and yellow-coloured and the Information desk at
mailboxes are yellow. Post offices Makedonia airport:
are open Monday to Friday from Domestic arrivals
7.30 am to 2 p.m. The main tel: 2310 985.215
Post Offices are located at 9A, Head offices – Athens:
Ethnikis Amynis St. (until 2.30 7, Tsoha St.
pm); 6-8, Fragkon St. (until tel.: 210 87.07.000,
4.30 pm); and 38, Vas. Irakleiou 210 87.07.088, 1572
St. (until 8.30 pm). Other post email: info@gnto.gr
offices in the town centre
are at 98, Agiou Dimitriou St. website: w  ww.gnto.gov.gr and
(University campus); and at the www.visitgreece.gr
Railway Station (until 2.30 pm). GNTO offices abroad:
For any information on the
Information: GNTO offices abroad, contact
tel: 800 11 82.000 the Organisation’s Head offices
website: www.elta.gr or visit the webpages
www.gnto.gov.gr and fax: 210 36.21. 918

INFORMATION
www.visitgreece.gr email: gr-camp@otenet.gr
Municipality of Thessaloniki website: www.greececamping.org
Info Point:
Aristotelous square, TOURISM-RELATED ACTIVITIES
opening hours: Conferences
Mon-Fri 9 am – 5 pm There are very well-equipped
tel.: 2310 229.070 areas for holding conferences
Thessaloniki Tourism and professional meetings of
Organisation: any kind, in Thessaloniki and
154, Egnatia St. (T.I.F.- other places within the region.
HELEXPO), Pavillion 15 For more info, please contact:
tel.: 2310 279.282
email: welcome@thessaloniki.travel Thessaloniki Convention
website: www.thessaloniki.travel Bureau:
Tourist Police: 154, Egnatia St. (T.I.F.-
This department of the Hellenic HELEXPO), Pavillion 15
Police is staffed with men and tel.: 2313 053.355
women with special skills, who e-mail: welcome@
also speak foreign languages, thessalonikiconventionbureau.gr
in order to provide any website: www.
information and help to tourists, thessalonikiconventionbureau.gr
whenever required. They are Guided tours
also responsible for settling any If you wish to go on an organised
minor disputes between tourists excursion in areas outside the city
and tourism businesses. For limits, contact the GNTO or the
tourist information, call 1571 following offices
any day and time, from anywhere
in Greece. Macedonia & Thrace Travel
Agencies Association:
Thessaloniki Tourist Police 26, Vas. Irakleiou St.
Department: tel.: 2310 242.695
4, Dodekanisou St. website: www.etgmth.gr
tel.: 2310 554.874
Macedonia & Thrace Tour
HOTEL INFRASTRUCTURE Operators Association:
6, Tertseti St. (Vardari)
There are over 130 tel.: 2310 533.069
104 establishments of all categories website: www.thessaloniki-tours.gr
with an approximate overall Union of Tourist Guides,
capacity of 13,000 beds, Thessaloniki:
with a modern, high standard tel.: 2310 546.037
infrastructure. For information on e-mail: info@touristguides-ngreece.gr
room and camping reservations, website: www.touristguides-ngreece.gr
contact the G.N.T.O. (E.O.T.) or
Car Rental
the competent bureaux such as:
The Thessaloniki Hotels There are quite a few car rental
Association: 81A, Egnatia St. agencies in Thessaloniki.
tel.: 2310 273.993 For information, please contact:
website: www.tha.travel Car Rental Agencies
The Hellenic Chamber of Hotels: Association: 31,Viltanioti St.,
24, Stadiou St. - 105 64 Athens Kato Kifisia, 145 64 Athens
tel.: 213 216.99.00, tel.: 210 62.64. 281
213 216.99.25 fax: 210 62.64. 289
email: steea@steea.gr
email: info@grhotels.gr website: www.steea.gr
website: www.grhotels.gr
Yacht agents
The Hellenic Hoteliers
Federation: If you plan to charter a yacht for
24, Stadiou St. - 105 64 Athens your holidays, please contact:
tel.: 210 33.12.535-6 Hellenic Yacht Brokers
fax: 210 32.30.636 Association:
email: info@hhf.gr Office A1 in Marina Zeas,
website: www.pox.gr 185 36 – Piraeus
The Panhellenic Camping tel.: 210 45.33.134
Association: fax: 210 45.99.563
24, Stadiou St. - 105 64 Athens email: hyba@ath.forthnet.gr
tel.: 210 36.21.560 website: www.hyba.gr
Hellenic Professional Yacht 17), and Aristotelous square (see

INFORMATION
Owners Association: p. 15); also at the interchange
Marina Zeas stations in Stavroupoli (see p.
(Administration Building), 61), at K.T.E.L. (intercity bus
185 36 – Piraeus station), IKEA (Pylaia area) and
tel.: 210 45.26.335 Lagkadas (see p. 93). Buses run
from 5 am until midnight, yet
fax: 210 42.80.465 there are certain lines running
website: www.hpyoa.gr after midnight connecting major
junctions. You can purchase a
MARINA bus pass (one-month, three-
The Thessaloniki Marina is months or an annual one) or
located in Aretsou Kalamaria, use a ticket: the one-way basic
tel.: 2
 310 444.598, type, the ticket valid for two
2310 444.541 trips for a 70-min. period, the
ticket valid for three trips for a
(Port Authority) 90-min. period and the ticket
fax: 2310 444.585 valid for four trips for a 120-min.
VHF: Channel 9 (24-hour service) period, towards any direction
website: on any bus route. You will find
www.thessaloniki-marina.gr ticket boxes in central locations,
at the interchange stations and
BEACHES there are also ticket machines
inside the buses. Tickets must
Go for a swim in Aretsou beach be validated on the first trip (bus
(Kalamaria, see p. 64) and routes info in Greek:
the nearby beaches of Peraia, tel.: 11085
Neoi Epivates, Agia Triada (see website: www.oasth.gr.
p. 67) or in Nea Michaniona,
Angelochori (see p. 68) and the Cultural route:
beaches in Epanomi (see p. 68). The 50 bus service runs by the
A bit farther away, you can try the city’s major historical and cultural
beaches in Asprovalta area, Nea monuments starting from the
Vrasna and Stavros (see p. 94). White Tower and following
At a 60 – 90 min. distance from a circular 50 min. route. On
the way, passengers can get
the city you will reach the very information on the monuments
popular and absolutely beautiful using the audiovisual material
beaches of Halkidiki (see p. 92). and pamphlets supplied (in
Greek and in English). Bus no. 22 105
MINERAL SPRINGS – SPAS follows a circular route in Ano Poli
Lagkadas Spa: and Mouschounti square is the
Location: Lagkadas, Thessaloniki terminus. Sightseeing tours can
tel.: 23940 22.221 also be taken in open top tourist
buses, starting from the White
website: www.loutralagada.gr Tower. It is a 70-min. tour in 8
Nea Apollonia Spa: languages.
tel.: 23930 41.207 (Town Hall), Makedonia International
23930 41.510, 23930 42.151 Airport of Thessaloniki.
(Spa facility)
It is situated in Mikra area, 15
Souroti Spring (where natural km SE of the city centre (tel.
mineral water is bottled): 2310 985.000). There is a bus
Location: Souroti, Thessaloniki service (no. 78 by day and no.
tel.: 23960 41.182 (name of 78N by night) connecting the
bottling company: Souroti A.E.), airport with the Railway Station
website: www.souroti.gr) and the Intercity bus station
Mud Therapy Spa Centre (K.T.E.L.); the 79 bus runs from
(Pikrolimni): A.S. IKEA station to the airport.
Xylokeratia, Kilkis Olympic Air:
tel.: 23410 29.971-3 information – bookings
website: www.pikrolimnispa.gr tel.: 8018010101
website: www.olympicair.com
TRANSPORT Aegean Airlines:
Buses. information – bookings
The urban bus service network tel.: 8011120.000
covers all city areas. The main (from a fixed line)
bus termini are at the Railway 210 62.61.000
Station (see p. 58), in Venizelou (from a cell phone)
Street (Eleftherias square, see p. website: www.aegeanair.com
Passenger Railway Station. White Tower Museum:

INFORMATION
28, Monastiriou St, information tel.: 2310 267.832
on domestic and international website: www.lpth.gr
timetables: Saint Demetrius
tel.: 14511 [Agios Dimitrios] Crypt:
website: www.ose.gr 83, Agiou Dimitriou St.
Thessaloniki Central Port tel.: 2310 270.591
Authority (at the harbour). website: www.inad.gr
For info on passenger ship Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki:
timetables, 13, Agiou Mina St.
tel.: 2313 325.821-4 tel.: 2310 250.406
Stavros Port Station: website: www.jmth.gr
tel.: 23970 61.280 Museum for the Macedonian
Intercity bus service Struggle:
(K.T.E.L.). 23, Proxenou Koromila St.
tel.: 2310 229.778
There is a coach service to website: www.imma.edu.gr
regional areas beyond the city
limits, and to most areas of War Museum:
continental Greece as well as 4, Grigoriou Lampraki St.
the islands of Corfu, Zante and tel.: 2310 249.803-05
Crete; buses leave from the Ataturk Museum:
Macedonia Intercity Bus Station, 75, Apostolou Pavlou St.
at 244, Giannitson St. (5 km W tel.: 2310 248.452
of the centre) Folklife & Ethnological Museum
tel.: 2310 595.400 of Macedonia – Thrace:
website: www.ktelmacedonia.gr 68, Vasilissis Olgas St.
tel.: 2310 830.591, 2310 889.840
Taxi Service. website: www.lemmth.gr
Taxis carry taximeters which State Museum
calculate the fare that must be of Contemporary Art:
paid and the driver must turn 21, Kolokotroni St., (Moni Lazariston)
the meter on as soon as the tel.: 2310 589.140-1
passenger is picked up. Fare 1 website:
is on from 05.00-24.00; it is www.greekstatemuseum.com
changed to Fare 2 from 24.00
to 05.00. Every taxi driver Thessaloniki Centre
106 must have the updated charge of Contemporary Art:
rates on display as well as any Warehouse B1 (port)
additional charges. tel.: 2310 593.270, 2310 546.683
Radio Taxi: website: www.cact.gr
«Taxiway» (tel.: 18300), Macedonian Museum
«Mercedes» (tel.: 18180), of Contemporary Art:
«Macedonia» (tel.: 18288) 154, Egnatias St., (within the TIF –
HELEXPO grounds)
MUSEUMS – tel.: 2310 240.002, 2310 240.403
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES website: www.mmca.org.gr
A large number of museums and A.U.Th. Teloglion Foundation
archaeological sites are open to of Art:
visitors in the suburbs and city 159A, Agiou Dimitriou St.
outskirts. A number of them are tel.: 2310 991.610
listed below. For more info visit website: www.teloglion.gr
http://odysseus.culture.gr Municipal Art Gallery
Archaeological Museum (Mordoch Villa):
of Thessaloniki: 162, Vasilissis Olgas St.
6, Manoli Andronikou St. tel.: 2310 427.555
tel.: 2313 310.201 Society for Macedonian
website: www.amth.gr Studies – Art Gallery:
Museum of the Roman Forum: 4, Ethnikis Amynis St.
Olympou and Filippou Sts. tel.: 2310 271.195
tel.: 2313 310.400 website: www.ems.gr
2310 221.266 Thessaloniki Cultural Centre
Museum of Byzantine Culture: of the National Bank of
2, Stratou Ave Greece Cultural Foundation
tel.: 2313 306.400 [M.I.E.T.] (Mehmet Kapanci
website: www.mbp.gr Villa):
108, Vasilissis Olgas st. tel.: 2310 425.531

INFORMATION
tel.: 2310 295.170 Central Municipal Library:
website: www.miet.gr 27, Ethn. Amynis St.
Thessaloniki Cinema tel.: 2313 318.593
Museum: email: library@thessaloniki.gr
Warehouse A (harbour) House of Mount Athos:
tel.: 2310 508.398 109, Egnatias St.
website: www.cinemuseum.gr tel.: 2310 263.308
Museum of Photography website: www.agioritikiestia.gr –
of Thessaloniki: Mount Athos Pilgrims Office:
Warehouse A (harbour) 2310 252.575
tel.: 2310 566.716 Noesis –Science Centre and
website: www.thmphoto.gr Technology Museum:
Olympic Museum: 6th km on the Thessaloniki –
Agiou Dimitriou & 3rd Septemvriou Thermi Rd. (Thermi)
Sts. tel.: 2310 483.000
tel.: 2310 968.531-2 website: www.noesis.edu.gr
website: www.olympicmuseum- Gerovassiliou Wine Museum:
thessaloniki.org Domaine Gerovassiliou (Epanomi)
Radio Museum: tel.: 23920 44.567
Within the T.I.F. grounds (south website: www.gerovassiliou.gr
gate Y.M.C.A. of Thessaloniki) Stavroupoli Botanical Garden:
tel.: 2310.299.445 tel.: 2310 600.717
website: www.radiomuseum.gr
Thessaloniki Zoo:
Water Museum: tel.: 2310 219.980
19, 26th Oktovriou St.
tel.: 2
 310 2310 514.029, 2310 Military Museum
966.600 of the Balkan Wars:
tel.: 2310 716.000
website: www.eyath.gr
Ancient Pella:
Children’s Museum: tel.: 23820 31.160
Cultural Centre of the Municipality 23820 32.730
of Thessaloniki, 57, Gr. Lampraki & (archaeological site)
Kleanthous Sts. 23820 32.963 (museum)
tel.: 2310 913.047 Dion:
website: www.paidikomouseio.gr
tel.: 23510 53.484 107
Yeni Mosque: (archaeological site),
30, Archaiologikou Mouseiou St. 23510 45.057 (museum)
tel.: 2310 857.978
website: www.ancientdion.org
Cast Museum A.U.Th.:
tel.: 2310 997.301 Aiges (Vergina):
website: www.auth.gr tel.: 23310 92.347
(archaeological site –
A.U.Th. Geology & museum of the royal tombs)
Paleontology Museum:
tel.: 2310 998.540 website: www.aigai.gr
website: www.auth.gr Petralona Cave:
Centre for the History tel.: 23730 73.365
of Thessaloniki (K.I.Th.): website: www.petralona-cave.gr
Billi Mansion, Collaboration of 5 Museums
Ippodromiou square in Thessaloniki.
tel.: 2310 264.668 The Archaeological Museum,
Ecclesiastical Museum the Museum of Byzantine
of the Metropolitan Church Culture, the State Museum
of Thessaloniki: of Contemporary Art, the
7, Vogatsikou St. Macedonian Museum of Modern
tel.: 2310 261.216 Art and the Teloglion Foundation
of Art are collaborating for
Vafopouleio Cultural Centre the mutual support and
(Library): promotion of cultural activities,
3, G.Vafopoulou St. the organisation of thematic
tel.: 2310 424.132-3 exhibitions, and other events and
Centre of Culture of the the participation in educational
Municipality of Thessaloniki: and research programmes.
Gr. Lampraki & Kleanthous Sts - For more info visit:
Toumpa www.5museums.gr
sections: The Competition

INFORMATION
CHURCHES OF VARIOUS
Section where directors present
DENOMINATIONS their first or second film, The
Non-Competitive section, The
Orthodox Metropolitan Church Special Screenings Section,
of Agios Grigorios Palamas: the special section showing
3, Agias Sofias St.
tel.: 2310 271.520 a selection of films from the
Balkan region under the name
Balkan Survey, The Greek
Catholic Church of the Section where domestic films
Immaculate Conception are shown, The Open Horizons
of the Virgin Mary:
19, Fragkon St. Section involving independent
tel.: 2310 539.550 film makers from around the
world and special Tributes
to the work of leading Greek
Armenian Orthodox Church: and foreign directors. Other
4, Dialetti St. events include retrospectives,
tel.: 2310 275.352
masterclasses, discussions with
the audience and professionals
Greek Evangelical Church: and the annual Documentary
37, Palaion Patron Germanou St. Festival. Screenings take place
tel.: 2310 273.380 in Olympion (see p. 15) and in
four movie theatres housed in
Yad Lezicaron Synagogue warehouses in the harbour
(Centre of Jewish History (see p. 18).
in Thessaloniki): Information:
24, Vas. Irakleiou St. 10, Aristotelous square
tel.: 2310 223.231 tel.: 2310 378.400
website: www.filmfestival.gr
Monastirioton Synagogue:
35, Syngrou St. Thessaloniki International
tel.: 2310 524.968 Fair (T.I.F.) - HELEXPO.
CULTURAL EVENTS – Since 1926 this has been the
EXHIBITIONS top trade fair in the Balkans
and an institution as such in
Demetria. the city. It takes place every
It is the city’s oldest cultural September and it is a major
108 institution, linked inextricably trading and commercial event as
with its cultural identity. It takes the achievements of the Greek
place every autumn (September industry and entrepreneurship
– November) and includes are presented to the world. The
theatrical, dance and music first radio station in southeast
shows, exhibitions, scientific Europe broadcasted from
congresses, day conferences these grounds for the first
and special tributes to Greek and time in 1926, followed by the
foreign destinations. Greek television in the mid
For information contact the sixties. Since the 1960s T.I.F.
Vice-Mayor’s Office responsible established the Greek Film
for Cultural, Educational and Festival (1960, see p. 108) and
Tourist Affairs of the City, at 25, the Thessaloniki Song Festival
Theofilou St., (Ano Poli), in 1962. In 1999 it was replaced
tel.: 2310 228.243 by two companies: T.I.F. A.E.
Department of Event & Festival and HELEXPO A.E. responsible
Organization for organising over 20 theme
tel.: 2313 318.214, exhibitions held throughout
website: www.dimitria.thessaloniki.gr the year on clothing, furniture,
environment, transport, tourism,
Thessaloniki International technology, food industry,
Film Festival. It takes place services etc. Numerous Greek
every November and there is and foreign companies and
no match for it in southeastern agencies participate in the fair
Europe. It was inaugurated and over 2 million people visit it
in 1960 as the Greek Film every year.
Week and it has become an Information: 154, Egnatia St.
international festival since tel.: 2310 291.530,
1992, with the following 2310 291.111
website: www.helexpo.gr of northern Greece and one

INFORMATION
of the largest in Europe. Its
International Book Fair. stages comprise the Children’s
Held every spring in the Theatre, the Aenaon dance
HELEXPO-TIF exhibition theatre (founded in 1982)
centre, it is well known as and the Dramatic School
the annual rendezvous place (founded in 1973); the Opera of
for professionals and book Thessaloniki has been running as
lovers alike. Greek and foreign a self-supporting section of the
publishers present their new N.T.N.G. since 1997. It is housed
work and special tributes to in the theatre of the Society for
writers and types of literature Macedonian Studies (see p. 25);
are included in the happenings performances are also held in
where new books are presented the Royal [Vasiliko] Theatre (see
and open discussions take p. 25), in the Sokratis Karantinos
place with writers; other events
Stage, and in the Small Theatre
include the honoured country,
professional meetings, the of Moni Lazariston (see p. 61),
Children’s corner, the Teenagers’ as well as in the open-air Forest
corner and the Book lover’s corner. Theatre and Theatre of the Earth
(see p. 48).
Information: National Book
Information:
Centre, 4, Athan. Diakou St,
Athens 2, Ethnikis Amynis St.
tel.: 210 92.00.300, tel.: 2315 200.000,
2315 200.200 (ticket boxes
website: website: www.ntng.gr
www.thessalonikibookfair.com
and www.ekebi.gr
THEATRES
Society for Macedonian
Studies (S.M.S.). There is a wide variety of indoor
It is a major cultural institution and open air theatre stages open
in Thessaloniki aimed at during the winter or summer
collecting, preserving, studying months in Thessaloniki.
and promoting the linguistic, Theatre of the Society
historical, traditional and for Macedonian Studies:
archaeological archives 2, Ethnikis Amynis St. 109
connected with the history tel.: 2315 200.000
of Macedonia. It has a large Royal [Vasiliko] Theatre:
library and an Art Gallery
(see p. 76). A variety of events, White Tower Park
scientific congresses and tel.: 2315 200.000
specialised publications are Garden Theatre [Theatro Kipou]:
part of the activities organised. White Tower Park
Information: tel.: 2310.256.775
4, Ethnikis Amynis St.,
Forest Theatre [Theatro
tel.: 2310 271.195,
website: www.ems.gr Dasous]:
Seich Sou Forest
Thessaloniki Concert Hall. tel.: 2315 200.200,
It is located on 25th Martiou St. Theatre of the Earth
(nea paralia), For information – [Theatro Gis]:
ticket reservations call: Triandria Area
2310 895.938-9, website: tel.: 2310 206.730
www.tch.gr Avlaia Theatre:
Town Centre Ticket Office: Thessaloniki Y.M.C.A. building
Astistotelous square, open on tel.: 2310 237.700
Mon., Wed., Sat. 10am – 3.30 Aneton Theatre:
pm and Tue., Thu., Fri. 10 am – 42, Paraskevopoulou
2 pm & 5.30 pm – 8pm. & Delfon Sts.
tel.: 2310 869.869
National Theatre of Northern Moni Lazariston Building:
Greece (N.T.N.G.). 21, Kolokotroni St, (Stavroupoli)
Established in 1961, it is the tel.: 2 310 589.237
biggest cultural organisation 2310 589.200
Thessaloniki State St. extension)

INFORMATION
Symphony Orchestra tel.: 2310 203.129
(T.S.S.O.).
It was established in 1959 Thessaloniki YMCA Sports
as the Symphony Orchestra Facilities:
of Northern Greece; in 1969 1, N. Germanou St., (YMCA
it acquired its present name square)
and was brought under state tel.: 2310 241.007
control. It is considered as one website: www.ymca.gr
of the best of its kind in Greece
and its musicians (approx. 100)
have performed in some of the Municipal Swimming Pool.
best known Festivals and music Alana Toumpas
stages in Greece and abroad. tel.: 2310 907.711
Concerts take place in the
Thessaloniki Concert Hall. Friends of the Sea Club:
Information: 73, Nikis Ave. 10, Megalou Alexandrou Ave.
(nea paralia)
tel.: 2310 257.900 tel.: 2310 831.333
website: www.tsso.gr website: www.ofth.gr
Summer (open-air) cinemas.
This is yet another attraction Nautical Club of
for visitors. Screenings take Thessaloniki:
place in gardens, and you can 112, Them. Sofouli St.
watch a film while sipping your tel.: 2310 414.521
website: www.ncth.gr
drink or having a snack, against
a backdrop of trees and flowers.
Films are not dubbed; Greek Sailing Club of Kalamaria:
subtitles are used instead. Mikro Emvolo, Kalamaria
tel.: 2310 454.111
website: www.naokth.gr
SPORTS
Thessaloniki has a long Theme Park Fields
tradition in sports. In recent (see p. --)
decades, major sports events
have taken place in the city Megas Alexandros
110 (finals of european football and International Marathon
basketball games, international race.
track and field events, a It takes place every spring;
marathon race, the 2004 the starting point is in Ancient
Olympic Games, international Pella and the finish is in
beach volleyball tournaments Thessaloniki town. 5 and 10
etc). A variety of modern and km races get also organised.
well equipped facilities are open For more information:
to those who wish to practice tel.: 2
 310 200.360,
their favourite sport or relax 2310 725.775
during their stay in town. Here website: www.atgm.gr
is a list of sports facilities:
Department of Municipal
Kaftanzogleio National Gyms, Swimming Pools
Stadium: and Sport Grounds of
Agiou Dimitriou St. extension the Municipality of
tel.: 2310 205.534 Thessaloniki
website: www.kaftanzoglio.gr Gr. Lampraki & 57, Kleanthous Sts.
tel.: 2310 317.636
Poseidonio Sports Centre
(there are two swimming pools, Department of Sporting
basketball, tennis, volleyball Events & Programms
and handball fields): of the Municipality of
N. Paralia & 25th Martiou St. Thessaloniki
tel.: 2310 428.456 Gr. Lampraki & 57, Kleanthous Sts.
tel.: 2310 317.636
Thessaloniki National
Swimming Pool: You can get information on
Telloglou St. (Agiou Dimitriou municipal gyms, the municipal
swimming pool and other tel.: 2
 3320 44.300 (Naoussa)

INFORMATION
Town sports grounds as well 2310 488.600-2
as on sporting events held in (Thessaloniki)
Thessaloniki. website: www.3-5pigadia.gr.
GOLF Lailias (Vrontous) Ski
You will find an 18-hole Centre.
golf course in the facilities It is located at a 1,847 m.
of the Porto Carras Grand elevation, there is one run,
Resort, 120 km SE of three surface lifts, a chalet and
Thessaloniki. It is one of the a mountain hut (50 persons
best in the country and meets capacity). It lies 116 km NE
international standards. In the
hotel grounds you can follow of Thessaloniki (25 km NE of
private or group courses for Serres town).
beginners or experienced Information:
players. tel.: 23210 58.783 (Ski Centre),
Information: 23210 62.400 (mountain hut)
tel.: 23750 77.000 website: www.katafigiolailias.gr
website: www.portocarras.com
Vora Ski Centre
SKI CENTRES (Kaimaktsalan).

Thessaloniki is relatively close This is the highest location


to some of the best known ski for a ski centre in Greece
centres in Northern Greece, (elevation: 2,480 m.). There
and offers the opportunity for are 6 lifts, 13 runs (total
a day trip to any of them. Here length: 15 km), 4 ski trails and
is a list: snowmaking machines. It lies
118 km NW of Thessaloniki
Seli Ski Centre. (33 km NW of Edessa town).
It is located at a 1,500-2,000 Information:
m. elevation, there are 16 runs tel.: 23810 32.000
(total length: 15 km), 11 lifts website: www.kaimaktsalan.gr.
and two chalets. Chryso Elafi
(meaning Golden Deer) is a Falakro Ski Centre.
private ski centre situated 95
km NW of Thessaloniki There are 9 lifts and 20 runs 111
(24 km NW of Veroia town). (total length exceeds 20 km). It
Information: lies 190 km NE of Thessaloniki
tel.: 23310 26.237 (43 km N of Drama town).
website: www.seli-ski.gr Information:
Elatochori Ski Centre. tel.: 25220 41.822
website: www.falakro.gr
It lies 8 km W of Elatochori
village at a 1,400-1,900
m. elevation. There are 8 WEBSITES
runs (total length: 9 km), 5
lifts, shops renting or selling * Municipality of Thessaloniki:
equipment and a chalet. It lies www.thessaloniki.gr
105 km SW of Thessaloniki
(36 km W of Katerini town). * Information on
Information: archaeological sites,
tel.: 23510 82.994, historical monuments
website: www.elatohori-ski.gr. and museums:
3-5 Pigadia [3-5 Wells] http://odysseus.culture.gr
Ski Centre. * Virtual tourist guide for
It is situated at a 1,425-2,005 Thessaloniki-Halkidiki:
m. elevation, there are 10 runs www.thessaloniki360.com
for different levels of experience * Hellenic National
(total length: 10 km), 7 lifts, Meteorological Service
a chalet and snowmaking (weather forecast):
machines. It lies 108 km W www.hnms.gr
of Thessaloniki (17 km W of
Naoussa town). * Athenian-Macedonian
Information: News Agency: www.amna.gr
112
MAP OF THESSALONIKI
PUBLIC AGENCIES – SERVICES
1. G.N.T.O. Information Office
2. Ministry of Macedonia – Thrace
3. Region of Central Macedonia (Villa Allatini)
4. New Town Hall
5. Police Department – Aliens Office
6. Tourist Police Station
7. Central Post Office
8. Customs (harbour)
9. Law Court
10. Aristotle University of Thessaloniki – Campus
11. Marina
ROMAN MONUMENTS
12. Roman Forum
13. Rotunda (Agios Georgios)
14. Arch of Galerius (Kamara)
15. Palace of Galerius
16. Hippodrome
BYZANTINE MONUMENTS
17. Holy Twelve Apostles Church
18. Panagia [Our Lady] Chalkeon Church
19. Acheiropoiitos Church
20. Agia Sofia Church
21. Metamorfosi Sotiros Church
22. Agios Panteleimonas Church
23. Agios Dimitrios Church
24. Agia Aikaterini Church
25. Profitis Ilias Church
26. Byzantine Bath-house (Kule Kafe)
27. Osios David Church
(Latomou Monastery)
28. Vlatadon Monastery (Patriarchal
Foundation for Theological Studies) 113
29. Agios Nikolaos Orfanos
30. City Walls

OTTOMAN MONUMENTS
31. White Tower
32. Vardariou Tower (Top Hane)
33. Pasha Hamam (“Phoenix”)
34. Hamza Bey Mosque (“Alkazar”)
35. Pazar Hamam (Flower Shops)
36. Bey Hamam (“Paradise”)
37. Yeni Hamam (“Aigli”)
38. Alatza Imaret
39. Trigoniou Tower
40. Eptapyrgio (Yedi Kule)
41. Yeni Mosque (exhibition area)

19th – 20th c. MONUMENTS

4 2. Aristotelous Square
43. YMCA of Thessaloniki
(Sports Centre – Library)
44. Greek Telecommunications [OTE] Tower
45. Pasha Gardens
46. Villa Bianca
47. Villa Ahmet Kapantzi
48. Governor’s House (Little Palace)
114
MAP OF THESSALONIKI
CHURCH DENOMINATIONS
4 9. Orthodox Metropolitan Church
50. Catholic Church
51. Greek Evangelical Church
52. Armenian Orthodox Church
53. Russian Church
54. Yad Lezikaron Synagogue
55. Monastiriotes’ Synagogue
MUSEUMS
5 6. Cinema Museum – Photography Museum
57. Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki
58. Museum of the Macedonian Struggle
59. Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki
60. Museum of Byzantine Culture
61. Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art
62. Kemal Atatϋrk Museum
63. Tellogleion Foundation of Art
64. Olympic Museum
65. War Museum
66. Folklife & Ethnological Museum
of Macedonia – Thrace
67. The Cultural Centre of M.I.E.T.
[the National Bank of Greece Cultural Foundation]
in Thessaloniki (Villa Mehmet Kapantzi)
68. Municipal Gallery (Villa Mordoch)
69. State Museum of Contemporary Art
CULTURE – EXHIBITIONS
7 0. Thessaloniki International Trade Fair (HELEXPO)
71. Society for Macedonian Studies –
National Theatre of Northern Greece
72. Garden Theatre
73. Royal Theatre
74. Thessaloniki Concert Hall 115
75. Vafopouleio Cultural Centre – Library
76. Kalamaria Municipal Theatre
77. Forest Theatre
78. Theatre of the Earth
SPORTS FACILITIES
7 9. Indoor Sports Hall (Byzantine Sports Club)
80. Alexandreio Sports Arena (Palais des Sports)
81. Kaftanzogleio stadium
82. The National Swimming Pool
83. Poseidonio Sports Centre
84. Toumpa Football ground
85. “Kleanthis Vikelidis” Football ground
86. Kalamaria Football ground
87. Nautical Club of Thessaloniki
88. Water Sports Club of Kalamaria
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
8 9. Long Distance Bus Station
90. New Railway Station
91. Main Port
TRADITIONAL MARKETS
9 2. Kapani (Vlali Marketplace)
93. Modiano Marketplace
94. Bezesteni
116
THESSALONIKI AND NEIGHBOURING AREAS

117

PUBLICATION:
GREEK NATIONAL TOURISM ORGANISATION
OCTOBER 2015

Publication Supervision:
ANGELA VARELA
Director, Directorate of Market
Research and Advertising
Publication Coordination:
ELENI MITRAKI
Head, Department of Publications
& Audiovisual Media
Greek Text: 
YANNIS RAGOS
Journalist - Author, Department of Publications
& Audiovisual Media
Collaborator: 
PERSEPHONE TRIHA
Acting Director, Regional Tourism Office
of Central Macedonia
Translation: 
ANGELIKI CHRISTOPOULOU
Translator, Department of Publications
& Audiovisual Media
Design & English Layout Adaptation:
 ΖOE TZOMENTZIDOU
Art Director, Department of Publications
& Audiovisual Media
Photo Credits: 
H. ΚΑΚΑROUHAS (3, 6, 13, 15, 17, 18, 20,
21, 25, 29, 30, 31, 37, 38, 40, 44, 50, 52, 53,
118 54, 56, 58, 59, 62, 63, 64, 65, 67, 72, 74, 79,
80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 86, 90, 94, 96, 97, 98, 99,
100, 101, 102, 103, 105, 106, 107, 116, 117,
118, 120, 121, 122, 123), G. KOTTAS (11,
19, 41, 43, 68, 69, 71, 75, 76, 77, 78, 88, 91,
112, 113, 114, 115), G. RAGOS (14, 16, 24,
28, 32, 42, 45, 48, 49, 60, 85, 87, 89, 95),
SHUTTERSTOCK (1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12,
22, 23, 26, 34, 35, 36, 39, 46, 47, 51, 55, 57,
61, 66, 70, 73, 92, 104, 108, 110, 111, 119),
PREFECTURE OF HALKIDIKI (109).
Photo Editing: 
KATERINA KOUZOUNI
Photographer, Department of Publications
& Audiovisual Media
Plans: 
XVI DIRECTORATE OF PREHISTORIC
AND CLASSICAL ANTIQUITIES
Maps: CHARTOGRAPHICA HELLENICA
Print:
ISBN: 978-960-534-079-7
Copyright: GREEK NATIONAL TOURISM ORGANISATION

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