Sherry

Sherry is a fortified wine, produced in Spain’s sherry triangle. Located in the province of
Andalucia, this triangle consists of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto
de Santa María. The soil in this region is chalk / limestone based, and provides the perfect
conditions for growing the Palomino grape, Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel, the three grapes
used for making sherry wine.

Contrary to what most people think, the majority of sherry is dry. It is basically an aged
white wine. Within the dry sherry category, there are two major styles: those that are
biologically aged (under a layer of flor yeast – Fino / Manzanilla type) and those that are
oxidatively aged (in absence of flor – Oloroso type). Two intermediate styles exist
(Amontillado and Palo Cortado), they start as a biologically aged wine but lose their layer of
flor at a certain point and continue their maturation in the oxidative way. All of these wines
are made from the Palomino grape.
Solera System

The Solera System (or process) is the aging of wine,

brandy and even vinegar - by blending small fractions of
the contents from different aged barrels in such a way
that the finished product is a mixture of ages - with the
average age gradually increasing as the process
continues over many years. A solera is literally the
sequential-set of oak barrels used in the process.

In a Spanish Sherry Solera, the vintner

may transfer up to a third of each
barrel, each year. A Solera Sherry has to
be at least 3 years old when bottled. No
wine-barrel is ever completely drained,
so some always remains in each oak
barrel. There can be significant traces of
this wine much older than the average.
In theory traces of the very first wine
placed in the 'solera system' may be
present even after 50 or 100 years.
On the ancient island of Sicily, where
Marsala wine is made, the system is
called 'in perpetuum' - (from Latin - forever).

The most significant result of the solera system is ensuring continuity and consistency. By
blending multiple vintages, the possible variability of each year will be lowered and – after a
certain amount of years – the bottled wine will maintain a constant average age and
character. Furthermore, the solera system is essential for biological ageing under flor since
every refreshment brings in young wine that contains the necessary micro-nutrients to
support the yeast, without which the layer of flor will die and the sherry will continue its
maturation in an oxidative way.

To sum up, a solera is essentially a never-ending ageing system, gradually but slowly
growing older. Once mature and maintained in a proper way, it will show a unique
personality, the identity of the solera.
Fino is made from the Palomino grape and biologically aged, entirely under a layer of flor. This cap of
yeast prevents contact with the air, resulting in a yeasty, saline profile with notes of Mediterranean herbs,
fresh dough and almonds. Maturation of at least 2 years in wooden barrels is prescribed by law, but the
majority of good Finos are aged between four and seven years of age.
At four or five years of age, the wine shows bright notes of flor and minerals, while older examples show more
savoury complexity and less spikey salinity.

Manzanilla is basically the same as Fino sherry but produced and matured around Sanlúcar de
Barrameda, closer to the sea than Jerez. It is made from the Palomino grape and biologically aged, entirely
under a layer of flor yeast. The specific climatic conditions of this town are responsible for a higher humidity
and cooler, more constant temperatures than those found in inland bodegas, which contributes to a higher
yield of flor. The thicker layer of flor protects the wine even more from air contact, resulting in a slightly lighter
variety of Fino, containing virtually no glycerol and combining dry, saline notes with a fresh, zesty liveliness.
Manzanilla typically displays more coastal aromas than a Fino, like seaspray, salt or even iodine. In Spanish,
manzanilla is chamomile, which is another aroma typically found in this type of sherry.

Amontillado is a Fino or Manzanilla that started with biological ageing under flor for the
first three to eight years or so, and matured further (usually longer) in an oxidative way, without flor. A cask
of Fino is considered to be Amontillado as soon as the layer of flor stops developing because the flor can’t find
enough nutrients in the wine to survive. Amontillado oxidises in a slow and controlled way, exposed to oxygen
through the slightly porous oak, and gains a darker colour and richer flavour than Fino.

While still having hints of flor, it will be less fresh and citrusy than a Fino and is characterized by nutty
aromas. The fusion of two different aging processes makes Amontillado wines extraordinarily complex and
intriguing.

Oloroso is aged in the absence of flor, in an oxidative way and starts from a selection of heavier, more
full-structured musts than a Fino or Manzanilla (sometimes a second pressing of grapes). To create an
Oloroso the base wine will be fortified further to make it impossible for flor yeasts to survive in these casks.
Due to evaporation known as merma (about 3-5% in volume each year), the resulting Oloroso will grow more
concentrated and around 20-24 degrees.
Oloroso shows nutty aromas (especially walnuts), combined with polished / balsamic notes, subtle dried fruits,
toasted hints, tobacco and autumn aromas. Often also meaty hints, truffle and leather.

Palo Cortado is an intermediate type of sherry and probably the most ambiguous of them all. to an
Amontillado, it will have spent less time under flor (traditionally up to three years, but in fact modern Palo
Cortado rarely ages under flor). In the past, a Palo Cortado would originate as a Fino that started to deviate:
unplanned yeast activity, specific characteristics of the grape juice, a slightly off-beat cask or certain ambient
conditions that influenced the flor and caused it to fail to develop normally. These casks would then be taken
out of the Fino solera, its flor would be killed by fortifying the wine and it would continue its life as a barrel
that ages oxidatively.
It should have the aromatic refinement of Amontillado combined with the structure and body of an Oloroso. In
short: Amontillado on the nose, Oloroso in the mouth.

Pedro Ximénez is a name used for naturally sweet dessert wines created with the grape variety with the
same name. The grapes are either picked very ripe and/or dried in the sun to concentrate. Commonly referred
to as P.X. , these are intensely sweet wines, especially when the grapes are dried in the sun (a process called
asoleo). The amount of sugar means the fermentation will be partial. Cream Sherry is named after a
hugely popular product called Bristol Cream from Bodegas Harveys, a thick, sweet blend that originated in
Bristol but conquered the world. It is slowly becoming the symbol of an old generation of sherry drinkers that
are not really looking for the dry, more authentic wines
The best examples not only display intense, ultra-sweet aromas of candied figs and dates but also balancing
flavours of chocolate, coffee, liquorice and spices.