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MENU
CARPENTRY MAINTENANCE
WIKI
HOME Talk Page
RANDO
M PAGE Basic Carpentry Repairs
MY
SAVED
Menu
ARTICL
ES 1 Basic Carpentry Repairs
1.1 Repair a Sticking or Binding Door
SITE 1.1.1 Door Repair
MENU 1.2 Repairing Drywall
STORE 1.2.1 Drywall Repairs
VIDEO 1.3 Installing Door Locks
ARCHIV 1.3.1 Installing a Lock in a New Door
E 1.3.2 Removing a Door Lock
EVENT
CENTER 1.4 Types of Locks
FORUM 1.4.1 Lever Tumbler Locks
1.4.2 Disc Tumbler Locks
1.4.3 Pin Tumbler Locks
1.4.4 Installing Rim Night Latch
1.5 Lock Maintenance
1.5.1 Removing a Broken Key from a Lock
1.5.2 Remove Broken Key from Lock
2 Power Tool Safety
2.0.1 Steps for Power Tool Safety
Talk Page

Repair a Sticking or Binding Door

Most doors that stick or bind, especially wooden doors, are caused by one or more of the
following conditions:

 Paint buildup
 Thermal expansion
 Swelling
 Loose hinges
 Structure of door loosens; rails and stiles

Normally, there should be a uniform gap around the door, usually 1/8 - 1/16. The door should
close smoothly and easily, latch firmly, and remain closed. Carefully observe the door as it
operates and note where the binding or rubbing occurs. Does the binding appear to be at the
top and/or bottom of the door only or on the hinge and/or latch side of the door only?
Table 1 lists some common problems with sticking or binding doors and possible corrective
actions to take.

Table 1: Sticking/Binding
Door Repair Problems and
Solutions
Common Problem Possible Correction
Carefully remove paint with scrapper. If too difficult
Paint buildup
with a scrapper, carefully use a heat gun or chemical
removers.
 Even binding on
For this repair, the door needs to be removed and
latch side and head
planed. This should be done when the door is
expanded; usually occurs during the most humid
Thermal expansion
part of the season.
Loose hinge (upper/lower)
Loose hinges (upper or lower).
or worn pin
  Binding along the  Observe the hinge after opening it slightly.
top on the latch side Push in toward the top and pull up on the
or binding on the door handle (upper hinge). If it moves, the
floor. hinge is loose. Do the reverse for the lower
hinge.
 Try and tighten the screws without stripping
them. If they cannot be tightened or are
stripped, try a longer screw. When using a
longer screw, make sure that the head of the
screw will fit inside the countersink in the
hinge or it will nullify what you are trying to
accomplish.
 If longer screws are not feasible, remove the
hinge and drill out the existing hole and
insert a glued dowel into the hole, let dry,
and re-drill a new hole. Reinstall the hinge.

Worn hinge pin.

 Observe the hinge while pushing the door up

and down. If the hinge knuckle moves but
the hinge does not, the pin is worn.
Depending on the condition of the pin or
knuckle, the pin and/or the entire hinge may
need replacing.

If the gap is at the top of the door:

 Check for square at jambs and head.

Foundation or building  If gap is small enough so that you cannot see
settling into the other room, remove door and plane
bottom.
 A gap on the latch  If gap is large enough so that you can see
side of the head jamb into the other room, the doorframe must be
or the door drags on rebuilt.
the floor or vise
versa. If the gap is at the bottom of the door:

 As above, check for square.

If not square, the doorframe must be rebuilt.

Talk Page
Door Repair
Safety Precautions:

 Use Safety glasses

Tools Required:

 2 x 6 provided by instructor
 Screwdriver
 Portable drill
 Dowels
 Wood glue

Steps to repairing a door:

1. Check a door for level and plumb to determine what is causing the door to stick and
what corrections need to be applied to correct the condition.
2. Repair a worn screw hole in a doorjamb.

Talk Page

Repairing Drywall
Repairing holes in sheetrock, large or small, requires some of the same basic steps. If the hole
is large, but not large enough to make the opening larger by going to the adjacent studs, the
hole should be squared off as reasonably as possible.

1. Using a scrap piece of 1x2 a little larger than the hole, screw the wood to the existing
drywall, placing the wood on the inside of the hole and leaving sufficient wood
exposed to screw the patch to it.
2. Cut a patch that is equal to the new holes size, trying not to leave more than 1/8-inch
gap all the way around the patch. Screw the drywall patch to the wood supports
previously installed.
3. Using self-adhesive drywall tape, cover the seams around the patch. If you are using
paper tape, spread a layer of drywall taping compound over the seams of the patch,
and then press the tape into the compound using a 6" taping knife. Apply a topcoat of
compound over the tape, pressing out any excess compound.
4. Allow for drying and applying a second coat of compound using a 12" taping knife,
feathering the compound out further.
5. Let dry and sand to a smooth finish.
6. Prime and paint.
 Figure 1: Repairing a Hole in Drywall
If the hole were large enough to expand it to the existing studs, then supports would be
required for the top and bottom portions of the hole.
Talk Page

Drywall Repairs
Safety Precautions:

 Safety glasses
  Work gloves

Tools Required

 Utility knife or hole saw

 Taping compound
 Putty knife
 Sponge block
 Mud

Steps to repairing drywall:

1. Repair a small hole in a sheetrock wall.

Talk Page

Installing Door Locks

The two most common types of door locks are the key-in-knob lock (Figure 2 and Figure 3)
and the deadbolt (Figure 4). They can be installed in solid or hollow-core doors; however, a
hollow-core door offers no security. Most key-in-knob and deadbolt locks purchased are
included in a kit containing the lock, the attaching hardware, and a paper template used to
mark new doors for the lock. They generally are installed in the same manner. The template is
used to ensure correct backset from the door edge, providing the spacing for the latch and
centering the latch in the hole in the door edge. The template is not required if the lock is being
replaced. Attention must be paid to the location of the keyway. The keyway normally is
installed on the exterior of the door. Most new door locks are not designated as either left- or
right-handed. Standard sizes are 2 and 3/8 and 2 and 3/4 inches. Some locksets are adjustable
between the two sizes.
 Figure 2: Key-in-Knob Door Lock

Figure 3: Key-in-Knob Door Lock Parts

 Figure 4: Deadbolt
Figure 5 shows a mortise lockset that can be found on many metal doors in large buildings.
 Figure 5: Mortise Lockset
Talk Page

Installing a Lock in a New Door

Safety Precautions:
  Safety glasses

Tools Required:

 Phillips screwdriver

Steps:

1. Mark the door edge approximately 36 inches from the floor. Fold the template along
the fold line. Using the template as a guide, mark the door edge with the location for a
1 inch in diameter hole. This is the latch hole. Using the template as a guide, mark the
door face with the approximate location for a 2 1/8-inch hole. This will be the cylinder
hole.
2. Drill 1/8-inch pilot holes, as marked in step 1, for both the 1-inch and the 2 1/8-inch
holes. Using a hole saw, drill the 2 1/8-inch hole from both sides to avoid splitting the
door face. Before drilling the 1-inch hole, mark the center of the strike plate hole in
the doorjamb by closing the door. Then, press a 2-inch 6d common nail through the
pilot hole from the inside of the 2 1/8 inch hole until the nail makes an indentation in
the doorjamb. Open the door and drill the 1-inch hole in the door edge through to the 2
1/8-inch hole. Next, drill a 1-inch hole at the point of the nail strike in the doorjamb to
at least 1-inch in depth.
3. Insert the latch through the hole in the door edge, keeping the latch parallel to the door
face. Mark the outline and remove the latch. Chisel a 1/8-inch mortise in the door
edge. Check the fit of the latch. Chisel additional depth if the latch face is not flush
with the door edge. Install the latch so the latch will slide and lock when the door is
closed. Insert and tighten the screws.
4. Check the center of the strike for alignment with the latch hole on the door to ensure
free movement of the latch bolt. Mark the outline of the strike plate centered over the
strike hole. Remove the strike plate and chisel a 1/16 inch deep mortise in the
doorjamb. Check the fit of the strike plate and remove additional material if the strike
plate is not flush with the doorjamb. Align the strike plate, insert screws, and tighten
them.
5. Press the exterior knob/lever (the exterior knob has no visible screws) against the
exterior surface of the door, making certain the stems are positioned horizontally so
they go through the holes in the latch case. If the door lock has a keyhole, make sure
that the keyhole is in a vertical position and the key teeth are facing up.
6. Install the interior knob/level by placing it on the spindle and aligning the screw holes
with the stems. Push it flush against the door and insert the screws. Tighten the screw
near the door edge first, and then tighten the other until the lockset is firm. Use
caution when installing the lockset on a hollow-core door, as the screws can be
tightened enough to break the door faces. Overtightening of the screws will affect the
operation of the door lock.

Talk Page

Removing a Door Lock

1. Determine if the inside doorknob is held in place by a metal tab. If it is, use a
 screwdriver, press on the tab and remove the inside doorknob.
2. Determine if the door lock uses a rose. A rose is a piece of metal covering the screws
securing the inside and outside of the door lock. Removing the rose will provide
access to the screws.
3. Remove the two machine screws holding the inside knob to the outside.
4. With the screws removed, pull the outside of the door lock from the latch.
5. Remove the screws holding the latch faceplate in the door edge.
6. Pull the latch faceplate and latch from the door. The door is now ready for a new lock.

Talk Page

Types of Locks
A lock, as defined by the International Association of Home Safety and Security Professionals,
is: "a device that incorporates a bolt, cam, shackle, or switch in order to secure an object, such
as a door, drawer, or machine, to a closed, opened, locked, off, or on position, and that
provides a restricted means of releasing the object from that position."
There are various types of locks in use today. The basic types are:

 Warded locks
 Combination locks
 Electric locks
 Tumbler locks

A warded lock (Figure 6) is a fixed-position projection designed to prevent unauthorized keys

from entering or operating the lock. One old type of warded lock comes in a metal case, has a
large keyhole, and is operated with a bit key. Warded locks provide little security because
wards are easy to bypass with a stiff piece of wire. This is the oldest lock still commonly used.
It has a simple design, straightforward internal structure, and an easily duplicated key. The two
types of warded locks currently in use are the surface mounted or the mortised lock Figure 7.
A mortise is a cavity created to contain something. A mortised lock is installed in a cavity
created in the door for the purpose of containing the lock.
 Figure 6: Warded Lock

Figure 7: Warded Locks

Combination locks are used as alternatives to key operated locks. The two basic styles are
pushbutton and dial.
Pushing a specific sequence of buttons operates pushbutton locks, which usually are labeled
with letter or numbers. Rotating one or more dials to specific positions operates dial
combination locks.
Electric current operates an electric lock. One type is basically a bolt or bar mechanism that
does not have a keyed cylinder, knob, or turn-piece and cannot be operated mechanically.
Another type, called an electrified lock, is a modified mechanical lock that can be operated
either mechanically or with electricity. Electric switch locks complete and break the electrical
current when an authorized key is inserted and turned.
Tumblers are small objects, usually made of metal, that move within a lock cylinder in ways
that obstruct a locks operation until an authorized key or combination moves them into
alignment.
Talk Page

Lever Tumbler Locks

These locks (Figure 8) are found on luggage, briefcases, and lockers and offer a low level of
security. They can easily be defeated with a hairpin, knife, or screwdriver. However,
the lever type can also be designed to offer a high degree of security, as with those used for
safe-deposit boxes.
This lock requires a standard flat key. When the key is turned, the various key cuts raise the
corresponding lever tumblers to the correct height; the gates of the levers align and release
the bolt. The bolt stop must pass through the gating from the rear to the front or vice versa,
either unlocking or locking the lock.
 Figure 8: Lever Lock Tumbler Lock
Talk Page

Disc Tumbler Locks

These locks (Figure 9) are often found on desks, file cabinets, automobile doors, and glove
compartments and offer a medium level of security. This type of lock gets its name from the
shape of the tumblers. The disc tumblers are steel stampings arranged in slots in the cylinder
core. The rectangular hold or cutout in the side of the disc matches a notch on the key bit. The
protrusion on the side, known as the hook, locates the spring. The disc stack is arranged with
alternating hooks, one on the right side of the lock and one on the left.
 Figure 9: Disc Tumbler Lock
When the correct key is inserted and turned, the cuts in the key raise the tumblers high enough
to clear the lower cylinder slot but not so high as to enter the upper cylinder slot. The key
arranges the tumblers along the upper and lower shear lines, freeing the plug to rotate and
throw the bolt.
Talk Page

Pin Tumbler Locks

This type of lock (Figure 10) provides a higher degree of security than other types of tumbler
locks, usually medium- to high- security. These locks are used in most homes, high-security
padlocks, automobile doors and ignitions, and many types of correctional facility locks. The
basic parts of a pin tumbler include the cylinder case, the plug, the keyway, upper pin
chambers, lower pin chambers, springs, drivers, and bottom pins.

Figure 10: Pin Tumbler Cylinder

The cylinder case houses all of the other parts of the cylinder. The part that rotates when the
proper key is inserted is called the plug. The keyway is the opening in the plug that accepts the
key. The drilled holes, usually five or six across the length of the plug, are called lower pin
chambers, They each hold a bottom pin. The corresponding drilled holes in the cylinder case
directly above the plug are called upper pin chambers; they each hold a spring and a driver.
When a key is not inserted into the cylinder, the downward pressure of the spring drives the
drivers partially down into the plug to prevent the plug from being rotated (see Figure 11).
Only the lower portions of the drivers are pushed in the plug because the plug holds the bottom
pins. When a properly cut key is inserted, it causes the top of all the bottom pins and the
bottom of all the drivers to meet at the shear line. When the pins are in this position, the plug is
free to rotate to the open position.

Figure 11: Key in Cylinder

Talk Page

Installing Rim Night Latch

1. At the desired height, bore the hole for the cylinder 1 1/4 inch diameter with the center
a distance of 2 3/8 inches from the edge of the door.
 2. Insert the cylinder and ring from the outside of the door and place the backplate on the
inside of the door, connecting the backplate with the cylinder by two connecting
screws. Cut off screws to the proper length relative to the doors thickness.
3. Cut off the connecting bar so it projects 3/8 inch beyond the inside of the door.
4. Place the lock on the door so that the connecting bar enters the slot. Using punched
holes as a guide, screw the lock to the door.
5. Apply the strike to the doorjamb lower than the centerline of the lock to allow for any
sag in the door.
6. Mortise the long lip into the doorjamb and leave the short lip on the surface.

Figure 12: Rim Night Latch Installation

Talk Page

Lock Maintenance
Most locks require little or no maintenance. If a lock is sticking, a little graphite applied to the
keyway usually is sufficient to lubricate the inside of the lock.
Talk Page

Removing a Broken Key from a Lock

There are many ways to remove a broken key from a lock. Much of it depends on the type of
lock, how much of the key is broken off, and whether or not the door is open.
The tools required range from small needle-nose pliers to a professional key removal kit
(Figure 13). The idea is to insert a thin piece of metal so as to be able to remove the broken
piece from the cylinder.
 Figure 13: Typical Key Extraction Tools
Other more elaborate removal procedures can be used, such as the following.

Figure 14: Key Removal Procedure Using Specialized Tools

In addition to using specialized tools, some simple methods may be applied to try and remove
the broken key. A precision drill can be used to drill a small hole in the back of the key so that
a spiral key extractor can be inserted into the hole to facilitate removal. In addition, a
homemade device made from a small, thin saw blade or spring-steel fashioned to facilitate
removal of the broken key.
Talk Page

Remove Broken Key from Lock

Safety Precautions:

 Safety glasses

Tools Required:

 Key removal tools

 Lubricant
 Coping saw blades (5)

Basic Steps for removing a broken key from a lock:

1. Remove a broken key from a lock.

Talk Page

Power Tool Safety

Learning to work with power tools safely is one of the most important aspects of building
maintenance. In this section, we discussed carpentry, but the basic rules for working with
power tools apply to all aspects of building maintenance, as well as working with them at
home or off the job.
One of the most important things about power tools is never to use a tool you are unfamiliar
with.

1. Always read and follow all instructions in the manual supplied with the tool.
2. Have someone with experience using the tool instruct you on its proper use.
3. Practice with the tool until you are familiar with its operating characteristics.
4. Never remove a guard or safety feature when using the tool.
5. Always use the proper tool for the proper job.
6. When changing blades or bits, always unplug the tool.
7. Watch where your fingers are at all times.
8. Always wear the proper safety equipment required for using the tool, e.g., safety
glasses, work gloves, face shield, ear plugs, etc.
9. Never force the tool when cutting or drilling; let the bit or blade do the work.
10. Keep your tools in good operating condition; never use a defective tool.
11. Keep your bits and blades sharp.

Talk Page
 Steps for Power Tool Safety
Safety Precautions:

 Ensure power is removed from equipment

 Use caution around exposed teeth on saw blades
 Safety glasses

Tools Required:

 Multimeter

In order to demonstrate power tool safety, visually inspect the following:

 Power saws
 Electric drills

TECHNOLOGY TRANSFER SERVICES PRIVACY POLICY TERMS OF USE ODESIE LICENSE HELP SITEMAP

WELCOME TO
THE INDUSTRIAL WIKI
RESEARCH CONTENT IN GREATER DETAIL

Enter th

A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
N
O
P
Q
R
S
T
 U
V
W
X
Y
Z
WIKI Talk Page
MENU
CARPENTRY MAINTENANCE
WIKI
HOME Talk Page
RANDO
M PAGE Basic Carpentry Repairs
MY
SAVED
Menu
ARTICL
ES 1 Basic Carpentry Repairs
1.1 Repair a Sticking or Binding Door
SITE 1.1.1 Door Repair
MENU 1.2 Repairing Drywall
STORE 1.2.1 Drywall Repairs
VIDEO 1.3 Installing Door Locks
ARCHIV 1.3.1 Installing a Lock in a New Door
E 1.3.2 Removing a Door Lock
EVENT 1.4 Types of Locks
CENTER 1.4.1 Lever Tumbler Locks
FORUM
1.4.2 Disc Tumbler Locks
1.4.3 Pin Tumbler Locks
1.4.4 Installing Rim Night Latch
1.5 Lock Maintenance
1.5.1 Removing a Broken Key from a Lock
1.5.2 Remove Broken Key from Lock
2 Power Tool Safety
2.0.1 Steps for Power Tool Safety
Talk Page

Repair a Sticking or Binding Door

Most doors that stick or bind, especially wooden doors, are caused by one or more of the
following conditions:
  Paint buildup
 Thermal expansion
 Swelling
 Loose hinges
 Structure of door loosens; rails and stiles

Normally, there should be a uniform gap around the door, usually 1/8 - 1/16. The door should
close smoothly and easily, latch firmly, and remain closed. Carefully observe the door as it
operates and note where the binding or rubbing occurs. Does the binding appear to be at the
top and/or bottom of the door only or on the hinge and/or latch side of the door only?
Table 1 lists some common problems with sticking or binding doors and possible corrective
actions to take.

Table 1: Sticking/Binding
Door Repair Problems and
Solutions
Common Problem Possible Correction
Carefully remove paint with scrapper. If too difficult
Paint buildup
with a scrapper, carefully use a heat gun or chemical
removers.
 Even binding on
For this repair, the door needs to be removed and
latch side and head
planed. This should be done when the door is
expanded; usually occurs during the most humid
Thermal expansion
part of the season.
Loose hinges (upper or lower).

 Observe the hinge after opening it slightly.

Loose hinge (upper/lower)
or worn pin
 Binding along the
top on the latch side
or binding on the
floor.
Push in toward the top and pull up on the
door handle (upper hinge). If it moves, the
hinge is loose. Do the reverse for the lower
hinge.
 Try and tighten the screws without stripping
them. If they cannot be tightened or are
stripped, try a longer screw. When using a
longer screw, make sure that the head of the
screw will fit inside the countersink in the
hinge or it will nullify what you are trying to
accomplish.
 If longer screws are not feasible, remove the
hinge and drill out the existing hole and
insert a glued dowel into the hole, let dry,
and re-drill a new hole. Reinstall the hinge.

Worn hinge pin.

  Observe the hinge while pushing the door up
and down. If the hinge knuckle moves but
the hinge does not, the pin is worn.
Depending on the condition of the pin or
knuckle, the pin and/or the entire hinge may
need replacing.

If the gap is at the top of the door:

 Check for square at jambs and head.

Foundation or building  If gap is small enough so that you cannot see
settling into the other room, remove door and plane
bottom.
 A gap on the latch  If gap is large enough so that you can see
side of the head jamb into the other room, the doorframe must be
or the door drags on rebuilt.
the floor or vise
versa. If the gap is at the bottom of the door:

 As above, check for square.

If not square, the doorframe must be rebuilt.

Talk Page

Door Repair
Safety Precautions:

 Use Safety glasses

Tools Required:

 2 x 6 provided by instructor
 Screwdriver
 Portable drill
 Dowels
 Wood glue

Steps to repairing a door:

1. Check a door for level and plumb to determine what is causing the door to stick and
what corrections need to be applied to correct the condition.
2. Repair a worn screw hole in a doorjamb.
Talk Page

Repairing Drywall
Repairing holes in sheetrock, large or small, requires some of the same basic steps. If the hole
is large, but not large enough to make the opening larger by going to the adjacent studs, the
hole should be squared off as reasonably as possible.

1. Using a scrap piece of 1x2 a little larger than the hole, screw the wood to the existing
drywall, placing the wood on the inside of the hole and leaving sufficient wood
exposed to screw the patch to it.
2. Cut a patch that is equal to the new holes size, trying not to leave more than 1/8-inch
gap all the way around the patch. Screw the drywall patch to the wood supports
previously installed.
3. Using self-adhesive drywall tape, cover the seams around the patch. If you are using
paper tape, spread a layer of drywall taping compound over the seams of the patch,
and then press the tape into the compound using a 6" taping knife. Apply a topcoat of
compound over the tape, pressing out any excess compound.
4. Allow for drying and applying a second coat of compound using a 12" taping knife,
feathering the compound out further.
5. Let dry and sand to a smooth finish.
6. Prime and paint.
 Figure 1: Repairing a Hole in Drywall
If the hole were large enough to expand it to the existing studs, then supports would be
required for the top and bottom portions of the hole.
Talk Page

Drywall Repairs
Safety Precautions:

 Safety glasses
  Work gloves

Tools Required

 Utility knife or hole saw

 Taping compound
 Putty knife
 Sponge block
 Mud

Steps to repairing drywall:

1. Repair a small hole in a sheetrock wall.

Talk Page

Installing Door Locks

The two most common types of door locks are the key-in-knob lock (Figure 2 and Figure 3)
and the deadbolt (Figure 4). They can be installed in solid or hollow-core doors; however, a
hollow-core door offers no security. Most key-in-knob and deadbolt locks purchased are
included in a kit containing the lock, the attaching hardware, and a paper template used to
mark new doors for the lock. They generally are installed in the same manner. The template is
used to ensure correct backset from the door edge, providing the spacing for the latch and
centering the latch in the hole in the door edge. The template is not required if the lock is being
replaced. Attention must be paid to the location of the keyway. The keyway normally is
installed on the exterior of the door. Most new door locks are not designated as either left- or
right-handed. Standard sizes are 2 and 3/8 and 2 and 3/4 inches. Some locksets are adjustable
between the two sizes.
 Figure 2: Key-in-Knob Door Lock

Figure 3: Key-in-Knob Door Lock Parts

 Figure 4: Deadbolt
Figure 5 shows a mortise lockset that can be found on many metal doors in large buildings.
 Figure 5: Mortise Lockset
Talk Page

Installing a Lock in a New Door

Safety Precautions:
  Safety glasses

Tools Required:

 Phillips screwdriver

Steps:

1. Mark the door edge approximately 36 inches from the floor. Fold the template along
the fold line. Using the template as a guide, mark the door edge with the location for a
1 inch in diameter hole. This is the latch hole. Using the template as a guide, mark the
door face with the approximate location for a 2 1/8-inch hole. This will be the cylinder
hole.
2. Drill 1/8-inch pilot holes, as marked in step 1, for both the 1-inch and the 2 1/8-inch
holes. Using a hole saw, drill the 2 1/8-inch hole from both sides to avoid splitting the
door face. Before drilling the 1-inch hole, mark the center of the strike plate hole in
the doorjamb by closing the door. Then, press a 2-inch 6d common nail through the
pilot hole from the inside of the 2 1/8 inch hole until the nail makes an indentation in
the doorjamb. Open the door and drill the 1-inch hole in the door edge through to the 2
1/8-inch hole. Next, drill a 1-inch hole at the point of the nail strike in the doorjamb to
at least 1-inch in depth.
3. Insert the latch through the hole in the door edge, keeping the latch parallel to the door
face. Mark the outline and remove the latch. Chisel a 1/8-inch mortise in the door
edge. Check the fit of the latch. Chisel additional depth if the latch face is not flush
with the door edge. Install the latch so the latch will slide and lock when the door is
closed. Insert and tighten the screws.
4. Check the center of the strike for alignment with the latch hole on the door to ensure
free movement of the latch bolt. Mark the outline of the strike plate centered over the
strike hole. Remove the strike plate and chisel a 1/16 inch deep mortise in the
doorjamb. Check the fit of the strike plate and remove additional material if the strike
plate is not flush with the doorjamb. Align the strike plate, insert screws, and tighten
them.
5. Press the exterior knob/lever (the exterior knob has no visible screws) against the
exterior surface of the door, making certain the stems are positioned horizontally so
they go through the holes in the latch case. If the door lock has a keyhole, make sure
that the keyhole is in a vertical position and the key teeth are facing up.
6. Install the interior knob/level by placing it on the spindle and aligning the screw holes
with the stems. Push it flush against the door and insert the screws. Tighten the screw
near the door edge first, and then tighten the other until the lockset is firm. Use
caution when installing the lockset on a hollow-core door, as the screws can be
tightened enough to break the door faces. Overtightening of the screws will affect the
operation of the door lock.

Talk Page

Removing a Door Lock

1. Determine if the inside doorknob is held in place by a metal tab. If it is, use a
 screwdriver, press on the tab and remove the inside doorknob.
2. Determine if the door lock uses a rose. A rose is a piece of metal covering the screws
securing the inside and outside of the door lock. Removing the rose will provide
access to the screws.
3. Remove the two machine screws holding the inside knob to the outside.
4. With the screws removed, pull the outside of the door lock from the latch.
5. Remove the screws holding the latch faceplate in the door edge.
6. Pull the latch faceplate and latch from the door. The door is now ready for a new lock.

Talk Page

Types of Locks
A lock, as defined by the International Association of Home Safety and Security Professionals,
is: "a device that incorporates a bolt, cam, shackle, or switch in order to secure an object, such
as a door, drawer, or machine, to a closed, opened, locked, off, or on position, and that
provides a restricted means of releasing the object from that position."
There are various types of locks in use today. The basic types are:

 Warded locks
 Combination locks
 Electric locks
 Tumbler locks

A warded lock (Figure 6) is a fixed-position projection designed to prevent unauthorized keys

from entering or operating the lock. One old type of warded lock comes in a metal case, has a
large keyhole, and is operated with a bit key. Warded locks provide little security because
wards are easy to bypass with a stiff piece of wire. This is the oldest lock still commonly used.
It has a simple design, straightforward internal structure, and an easily duplicated key. The two
types of warded locks currently in use are the surface mounted or the mortised lock Figure 7.
A mortise is a cavity created to contain something. A mortised lock is installed in a cavity
created in the door for the purpose of containing the lock.
 Figure 6: Warded Lock

Figure 7: Warded Locks

Combination locks are used as alternatives to key operated locks. The two basic styles are
pushbutton and dial.
Pushing a specific sequence of buttons operates pushbutton locks, which usually are labeled
with letter or numbers. Rotating one or more dials to specific positions operates dial
combination locks.
Electric current operates an electric lock. One type is basically a bolt or bar mechanism that
does not have a keyed cylinder, knob, or turn-piece and cannot be operated mechanically.
Another type, called an electrified lock, is a modified mechanical lock that can be operated
either mechanically or with electricity. Electric switch locks complete and break the electrical
current when an authorized key is inserted and turned.
Tumblers are small objects, usually made of metal, that move within a lock cylinder in ways
that obstruct a locks operation until an authorized key or combination moves them into
alignment.
Talk Page

Lever Tumbler Locks

These locks (Figure 8) are found on luggage, briefcases, and lockers and offer a low level of
security. They can easily be defeated with a hairpin, knife, or screwdriver. However,
the lever type can also be designed to offer a high degree of security, as with those used for
safe-deposit boxes.
This lock requires a standard flat key. When the key is turned, the various key cuts raise the
corresponding lever tumblers to the correct height; the gates of the levers align and release
the bolt. The bolt stop must pass through the gating from the rear to the front or vice versa,
either unlocking or locking the lock.
 Figure 8: Lever Lock Tumbler Lock
Talk Page

Disc Tumbler Locks

These locks (Figure 9) are often found on desks, file cabinets, automobile doors, and glove
compartments and offer a medium level of security. This type of lock gets its name from the
shape of the tumblers. The disc tumblers are steel stampings arranged in slots in the cylinder
core. The rectangular hold or cutout in the side of the disc matches a notch on the key bit. The
protrusion on the side, known as the hook, locates the spring. The disc stack is arranged with
alternating hooks, one on the right side of the lock and one on the left.
 Figure 9: Disc Tumbler Lock
When the correct key is inserted and turned, the cuts in the key raise the tumblers high enough
to clear the lower cylinder slot but not so high as to enter the upper cylinder slot. The key
arranges the tumblers along the upper and lower shear lines, freeing the plug to rotate and
throw the bolt.
Talk Page

Pin Tumbler Locks

This type of lock (Figure 10) provides a higher degree of security than other types of tumbler
locks, usually medium- to high- security. These locks are used in most homes, high-security
padlocks, automobile doors and ignitions, and many types of correctional facility locks. The
basic parts of a pin tumbler include the cylinder case, the plug, the keyway, upper pin
chambers, lower pin chambers, springs, drivers, and bottom pins.

Figure 10: Pin Tumbler Cylinder

The cylinder case houses all of the other parts of the cylinder. The part that rotates when the
proper key is inserted is called the plug. The keyway is the opening in the plug that accepts the
key. The drilled holes, usually five or six across the length of the plug, are called lower pin
chambers, They each hold a bottom pin. The corresponding drilled holes in the cylinder case
directly above the plug are called upper pin chambers; they each hold a spring and a driver.
When a key is not inserted into the cylinder, the downward pressure of the spring drives the
drivers partially down into the plug to prevent the plug from being rotated (see Figure 11).
Only the lower portions of the drivers are pushed in the plug because the plug holds the bottom
pins. When a properly cut key is inserted, it causes the top of all the bottom pins and the
bottom of all the drivers to meet at the shear line. When the pins are in this position, the plug is
free to rotate to the open position.

Figure 11: Key in Cylinder

Talk Page

Installing Rim Night Latch

1. At the desired height, bore the hole for the cylinder 1 1/4 inch diameter with the center
a distance of 2 3/8 inches from the edge of the door.
 2. Insert the cylinder and ring from the outside of the door and place the backplate on the
inside of the door, connecting the backplate with the cylinder by two connecting
screws. Cut off screws to the proper length relative to the doors thickness.
3. Cut off the connecting bar so it projects 3/8 inch beyond the inside of the door.
4. Place the lock on the door so that the connecting bar enters the slot. Using punched
holes as a guide, screw the lock to the door.
5. Apply the strike to the doorjamb lower than the centerline of the lock to allow for any
sag in the door.
6. Mortise the long lip into the doorjamb and leave the short lip on the surface.

Figure 12: Rim Night Latch Installation

Talk Page

Lock Maintenance
Most locks require little or no maintenance. If a lock is sticking, a little graphite applied to the
keyway usually is sufficient to lubricate the inside of the lock.
Talk Page

Removing a Broken Key from a Lock

There are many ways to remove a broken key from a lock. Much of it depends on the type of
lock, how much of the key is broken off, and whether or not the door is open.
The tools required range from small needle-nose pliers to a professional key removal kit
(Figure 13). The idea is to insert a thin piece of metal so as to be able to remove the broken
piece from the cylinder.
 Figure 13: Typical Key Extraction Tools
Other more elaborate removal procedures can be used, such as the following.

Figure 14: Key Removal Procedure Using Specialized Tools

In addition to using specialized tools, some simple methods may be applied to try and remove
the broken key. A precision drill can be used to drill a small hole in the back of the key so that
a spiral key extractor can be inserted into the hole to facilitate removal. In addition, a
homemade device made from a small, thin saw blade or spring-steel fashioned to facilitate
removal of the broken key.
Talk Page

Remove Broken Key from Lock

Safety Precautions:

 Safety glasses

Tools Required:

 Key removal tools

 Lubricant
 Coping saw blades (5)

Basic Steps for removing a broken key from a lock:

1. Remove a broken key from a lock.

Talk Page

Power Tool Safety

Learning to work with power tools safely is one of the most important aspects of building
maintenance. In this section, we discussed carpentry, but the basic rules for working with
power tools apply to all aspects of building maintenance, as well as working with them at
home or off the job.
One of the most important things about power tools is never to use a tool you are unfamiliar
with.

1. Always read and follow all instructions in the manual supplied with the tool.
2. Have someone with experience using the tool instruct you on its proper use.
3. Practice with the tool until you are familiar with its operating characteristics.
4. Never remove a guard or safety feature when using the tool.
5. Always use the proper tool for the proper job.
6. When changing blades or bits, always unplug the tool.
7. Watch where your fingers are at all times.
8. Always wear the proper safety equipment required for using the tool, e.g., safety
glasses, work gloves, face shield, ear plugs, etc.
9. Never force the tool when cutting or drilling; let the bit or blade do the work.
10. Keep your tools in good operating condition; never use a defective tool.
11. Keep your bits and blades sharp.

Talk Page
 Steps for Power Tool Safety
Safety Precautions:

 Ensure power is removed from equipment

 Use caution around exposed teeth on saw blades
 Safety glasses

Tools Required:

 Multimeter

In order to demonstrate power tool safety, visually inspect the following:

 Power saws
 Electric drills

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0 WELCOME TO THE INDUSTRIAL WIKI RESEARCH CONTENT IN
GREATER DETAIL ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ WIKI MENU WIKI
HOME RANDOM PAGE MY SAVED ARTICLES SITE MENU STORE VIDEO
ARCHIVE EVENT CENTER FORUM Talk Page CARPENTRY
MAINTENANCE Talk Page Basic Carpentry Repairs Menu 1 Basic Carpentry
Repairs 1.1 Repair a Sticking or Binding Door 1.1.1 Door Repair 1.2 Repairing
Drywall 1.2.1 Drywall Repairs 1.3 Installing Door Locks 1.3.1 Installing a Lock
in a New Door 1.3.2 Removing a Door Lock 1.4 Types of Locks 1.4.1 Lever
Tumbler Locks 1.4.2 Disc Tumbler Locks 1.4.3 Pin Tumbler Locks 1.4.4
Installing Rim Night Latch 1.5 Lock Maintenance 1.5.1 Removing a Broken
Key from a Lock 1.5.2 Remove Broken Key from Lock 2 Power Tool Safety
2.0.1 Steps for Power Tool Safety Talk Page Repair a Sticking or Binding
Door Most doors that stick or bind, especially wooden doors, are caused by
one or more of the following conditions: Paint buildup Thermal expansion
Swelling Loose hinges Structure of door loosens; rails and stiles Normally,
there should be a uniform gap around the door, usually 1/8 - 1/16. The door
should close smoothly and easily, latch firmly, and remain closed. Carefully
observe the door as it operates and note where the binding or rubbing occurs.
Does the binding appear to be at the top and/or bottom of the door only or on
the hinge and/or latch side of the door only? Table 1 lists some common
problems with sticking or binding doors and possible corrective actions to
take. Table 1: Sticking/Binding Door Repair Problems and Solutions Common
Problem Possible Correction Paint buildup Even binding on latch side and
head Thermal expansion Carefully remove paint with scrapper. If too difficult
with a scrapper, carefully use a heat gun or chemical removers. For this
repair, the door needs to be removed and planed. This should be done when
the door is expanded; usually occurs during the most humid part of the
season. Loose hinge (upper/lower) or worn pin Binding along the top on the
latch side or binding on the floor. Loose hinges (upper or lower). Observe the
hinge after opening it slightly. Push in toward the top and pull up on the door
handle (upper hinge). If it moves, the hinge is loose. Do the reverse for the
lower hinge. Try and tighten the screws without stripping them. If they cannot
be tightened or are stripped, try a longer screw. When using a longer screw,
make sure that the head of the screw will fit inside the countersink in the hinge
or it will nullify what you are trying to accomplish. If longer screws are not
feasible, remove the hinge and drill out the existing hole and insert a glued
dowel into the hole, let dry, and re-drill a new hole. Reinstall the hinge. Worn
hinge pin. Observe the hinge while pushing the door up and down. If the hinge
knuckle moves but the hinge does not, the pin is worn. Depending on the
condition of the pin or knuckle, the pin and/or the entire hinge may need
replacing. Foundation or building settling A gap on the latch side of the head
jamb or the door drags on the floor or vise versa. If the gap is at the top of the
door: Check for square at jambs and head. If gap is small enough so that you
cannot see into the other room, remove door and plane bottom. If gap is large
enough so that you can see into the other room, the doorframe must be
rebuilt. If the gap is at the bottom of the door: As above, check for square. If
not square, the doorframe must be rebuilt. Talk Page Door Repair Safety
Precautions: Use Safety glasses Tools Required: 2 x 6 provided by instructor
Screwdriver Portable drill Dowels Wood glue Steps to repairing a door: Check
a door for level and plumb to determine what is causing the door to stick and
what corrections need to be applied to correct the condition. Repair a worn
screw hole in a doorjamb. Talk Page Repairing Drywall Repairing holes in
sheetrock, large or small, requires some of the same basic steps. If the hole is
large, but not large enough to make the opening larger by going to the
adjacent studs, the hole should be squared off as reasonably as possible.
Using a scrap piece of 1x2 a little larger than the hole, screw the wood to the
existing drywall, placing the wood on the inside of the hole and leaving
sufficient wood exposed to screw the patch to it. Cut a patch that is equal to
the new holes size, trying not to leave more than 1/8-inch gap all the way
around the patch. Screw the drywall patch to the wood supports previously
installed. Using self-adhesive drywall tape, cover the seams around the patch.
If you are using paper tape, spread a layer of drywall taping compound over
the seams of the patch, and then press the tape into the compound using a 6"
taping knife. Apply a topcoat of compound over the tape, pressing out any
excess compound. Allow for drying and applying a second coat of compound
using a 12" taping knife, feathering the compound out further. Let dry and
sand to a smooth finish. Prime and paint. Figure 1: Repairing a Hole in
Drywall If the hole were large enough to expand it to the existing studs, then
supports would be required for the top and bottom portions of the hole. Talk
Page Drywall Repairs Safety Precautions: Safety glasses Work gloves Tools
Required Utility knife or hole saw Taping compound Putty knife Sponge block
Mud Steps to repairing drywall: Repair a small hole in a sheetrock wall. Talk
Page Installing Door Locks The two most common types of door locks are the
key-in-knob lock (Figure 2 and Figure 3) and the deadbolt (Figure 4). They
can be installed in solid or hollow-core doors; however, a hollow-core door
offers no security. Most key-in-knob and deadbolt locks purchased are
included in a kit containing the lock, the attaching hardware, and a paper
template used to mark new doors for the lock. They generally are installed in
the same manner. The template is used to ensure correct backset from the
door edge, providing the spacing for the latch and centering the latch in the
hole in the door edge. The template is not required if the lock is being
replaced. Attention must be paid to the location of the keyway. The keyway
normally is installed on the exterior of the door. Most new door locks are not
designated as either left- or right-handed. Standard sizes are 2 and 3/8 and 2
and 3/4 inches. Some locksets are adjustable between the two sizes. Figure
2: Key-in-Knob Door Lock Figure 3: Key-in-Knob Door Lock Parts Figure 4:
Deadbolt Figure 5 shows a mortise lockset that can be found on many metal
doors in large buildings. Figure 5: Mortise Lockset Talk Page Installing a Lock
in a New Door Safety Precautions: Safety glasses Tools Required: Phillips
screwdriver Steps: Mark the door edge approximately 36 inches from the
floor. Fold the template along the fold line. Using the template as a guide,
mark the door edge with the location for a 1 inch in diameter hole. This is the
latch hole. Using the template as a guide, mark the door face with the
approximate location for a 2 1/8-inch hole. This will be the cylinder hole. Drill
1/8-inch pilot holes, as marked in step 1, for both the 1-inch and the 2 1/8-inch
holes. Using a hole saw, drill the 2 1/8-inch hole from both sides to avoid
splitting the door face. Before drilling the 1-inch hole, mark the center of the
strike plate hole in the doorjamb by closing the door. Then, press a 2-inch 6d
common nail through the pilot hole from the inside of the 2 1/8 inch hole until
the nail makes an indentation in the doorjamb. Open the door and drill the 1-
inch hole in the door edge through to the 2 1/8-inch hole. Next, drill a 1-inch
hole at the point of the nail strike in the doorjamb to at least 1-inch in depth.
Insert the latch through the hole in the door edge, keeping the latch parallel to
the door face. Mark the outline and remove the latch. Chisel a 1/8-inch
mortise in the door edge. Check the fit of the latch. Chisel additional depth if
the latch face is not flush with the door edge. Install the latch so the latch will
slide and lock when the door is closed. Insert and tighten the screws. Check
the center of the strike for alignment with the latch hole on the door to ensure
free movement of the latch bolt. Mark the outline of the strike plate centered
over the strike hole. Remove the strike plate and chisel a 1/16 inch deep
mortise in the doorjamb. Check the fit of the strike plate and remove additional
material if the strike plate is not flush with the doorjamb. Align the strike plate,
insert screws, and tighten them. Press the exterior knob/lever (the exterior
knob has no visible screws) against the exterior surface of the door, making
certain the stems are positioned horizontally so they go through the holes in
the latch case. If the door lock has a keyhole, make sure that the keyhole is in
a vertical position and the key teeth are facing up. Install the interior
knob/level by placing it on the spindle and aligning the screw holes with the
stems. Push it flush against the door and insert the screws. Tighten the screw
near the door edge first, and then tighten the other until the lockset is firm.
Use caution when installing the lockset on a hollow-core door, as the screws
can be tightened enough to break the door faces. Overtightening of the
screws will affect the operation of the door lock. Talk Page Removing a Door
Lock Determine if the inside doorknob is held in place by a metal tab. If it is,
use a screwdriver, press on the tab and remove the inside doorknob.
Determine if the door lock uses a rose. A rose is a piece of metal covering the
screws securing the inside and outside of the door lock. Removing the rose
will provide access to the screws. Remove the two machine screws holding
the inside knob to the outside. With the screws removed, pull the outside of
the door lock from the latch. Remove the screws holding the latch faceplate in
the door edge. Pull the latch faceplate and latch from the door. The door is
now ready for a new lock. Talk Page Types of Locks A lock, as defined by the
International Association of Home Safety and Security Professionals, is: "a
device that incorporates a bolt, cam, shackle, or switch in order to secure an
object, such as a door, drawer, or machine, to a closed, opened, locked, off,
or on position, and that provides a restricted means of releasing the object
from that position." There are various types of locks in use today. The basic
types are: Warded locks Combination locks Electric locks Tumbler locks A
warded lock (Figure 6) is a fixed-position projection designed to prevent
unauthorized keys from entering or operating the lock. One old type of warded
lock comes in a metal case, has a large keyhole, and is operated with a bit
key. Warded locks provide little security because wards are easy to bypass
with a stiff piece of wire. This is the oldest lock still commonly used. It has a
simple design, straightforward internal structure, and an easily duplicated key.
The two types of warded locks currently in use are the surface mounted or the
mortised lock Figure 7. A mortise is a cavity created to contain something. A
mortised lock is installed in a cavity created in the door for the purpose of
containing the lock. Figure 6: Warded Lock Figure 7: Warded Locks
Combination locks are used as alternatives to key operated locks. The two
basic styles are pushbutton and dial. Pushing a specific sequence of buttons
operates pushbutton locks, which usually are labeled with letter or numbers.
Rotating one or more dials to specific positions operates dial combination
locks. Electric current operates an electric lock. One type is basically a bolt or
bar mechanism that does not have a keyed cylinder, knob, or turn-piece and
cannot be operated mechanically. Another type, called an electrified lock, is a
modified mechanical lock that can be operated either mechanically or with
electricity. Electric switch locks complete and break the electrical current when
an authorized key is inserted and turned. Tumblers are small objects, usually
made of metal, that move within a lock cylinder in ways that obstruct a locks
operation until an authorized key or combination moves them into alignment.
Talk Page Lever Tumbler Locks These locks (Figure 8) are found on luggage,
briefcases, and lockers and offer a low level of security. They can easily be
defeated with a hairpin, knife, or screwdriver. However, the lever type can also
be designed to offer a high degree of security, as with those used for safe-
deposit boxes. This lock requires a standard flat key. When the key is turned,
the various key cuts raise the corresponding lever tumblers to the correct
height; the gates of the levers align and release the bolt. The bolt stop must
pass through the gating from the rear to the front or vice versa, either
unlocking or locking the lock. Figure 8: Lever Lock Tumbler Lock Talk Page
Disc Tumbler Locks These locks (Figure 9) are often found on desks, file
cabinets, automobile doors, and glove compartments and offer a medium
level of security. This type of lock gets its name from the shape of the
tumblers. The disc tumblers are steel stampings arranged in slots in the
cylinder core. The rectangular hold or cutout in the side of the disc matches a
notch on the key bit. The protrusion on the side, known as the hook, locates
the spring. The disc stack is arranged with alternating hooks, one on the right
side of the lock and one on the left. Figure 9: Disc Tumbler Lock When the
correct key is inserted and turned, the cuts in the key raise the tumblers high
enough to clear the lower cylinder slot but not so high as to enter the upper
cylinder slot. The key arranges the tumblers along the upper and lower shear
lines, freeing the plug to rotate and throw the bolt. Talk Page Pin Tumbler
Locks This type of lock (Figure 10) provides a higher degree of security than
other types of tumbler locks, usually medium- to high- security. These locks
are used in most homes, high-security padlocks, automobile doors and
ignitions, and many types of correctional facility locks. The basic parts of a pin
tumbler include the cylinder case, the plug, the keyway, upper pin chambers,
lower pin chambers, springs, drivers, and bottom pins. Figure 10: Pin Tumbler
Cylinder The cylinder case houses all of the other parts of the cylinder. The
part that rotates when the proper key is inserted is called the plug. The
keyway is the opening in the plug that accepts the key. The drilled holes,
usually five or six across the length of the plug, are called lower pin chambers,
They each hold a bottom pin. The corresponding drilled holes in the cylinder
case directly above the plug are called upper pin chambers; they each hold a
spring and a driver. When a key is not inserted into the cylinder, the
downward pressure of the spring drives the drivers partially down into the plug
to prevent the plug from being rotated (see Figure 11). Only the lower portions
of the drivers are pushed in the plug because the plug holds the bottom pins.
When a properly cut key is inserted, it causes the top of all the bottom pins
and the bottom of all the drivers to meet at the shear line. When the pins are
in this position, the plug is free to rotate to the open position. Figure 11: Key in
Cylinder Talk Page Installing Rim Night Latch At the desired height, bore the
hole for the cylinder 1 1/4 inch diameter with the center a distance of 2 3/8
inches from the edge of the door. Insert the cylinder and ring from the outside
of the door and place the backplate on the inside of the door, connecting the
backplate with the cylinder by two connecting screws. Cut off screws to the
proper length relative to the doors thickness. Cut off the connecting bar so it
projects 3/8 inch beyond the inside of the door. Place the lock on the door so
that the connecting bar enters the slot. Using punched holes as a guide,
screw the lock to the door. Apply the strike to the doorjamb lower than the
centerline of the lock to allow for any sag in the door. Mortise the long lip into
the doorjamb and leave the short lip on the surface. Figure 12: Rim Night
Latch Installation Talk Page Lock Maintenance Most locks require little or no
maintenance. If a lock is sticking, a little graphite applied to the keyway
usually is sufficient to lubricate the inside of the lock. Talk Page Removing a
Broken Key from a Lock There are many ways to remove a broken key from a
lock. Much of it depends on the type of lock, how much of the key is broken
off, and whether or not the door is open. The tools required range from small
needle-nose pliers to a professional key removal kit (Figure 13). The idea is to
insert a thin piece of metal so as to be able to remove the broken piece from
the cylinder. Figure 13: Typical Key Extraction Tools Other more elaborate
removal procedures can be used, such as the following. Figure 14: Key
Removal Procedure Using Specialized Tools In addition to using specialized
tools, some simple methods may be applied to try and remove the broken key.
A precision drill can be used to drill a small hole in the back of the key so that
a spiral key extractor can be inserted into the hole to facilitate removal. In
addition, a homemade device made from a small, thin saw blade or spring-
steel fashioned to facilitate removal of the broken key. Talk Page Remove
Broken Key from Lock Safety Precautions: Safety glasses Tools Required:
Key removal tools Lubricant Coping saw blades (5) Basic Steps for removing
a broken key from a lock: Remove a broken key from a lock. Talk Page Power
Tool Safety Learning to work with power tools safely is one of the most
important aspects of building maintenance. In this section, we discussed
carpentry, but the basic rules for working with power tools apply to all aspects
of building maintenance, as well as working with them at home or off the job.
One of the most important things about power tools is never to use a tool you
are unfamiliar with. Always read and follow all instructions in the manual
supplied with the tool. Have someone with experience using the tool instruct
you on its proper use. Practice with the tool until you are familiar with its
operating characteristics. Never remove a guard or safety feature when using
the tool. Always use the proper tool for the proper job. When changing blades
or bits, always unplug the tool. Watch where your fingers are at all times.
Always wear the proper safety equipment required for using the tool, e.g.,
safety glasses, work gloves, face shield, ear plugs, etc. Never force the tool
when cutting or drilling; let the bit or blade do the work. Keep your tools in
good operating condition; never use a defective tool. Keep your bits and
blades sharp. Talk Page Steps for Power Tool Safety Safety Precautions:
Ensure power is removed from equipment Use caution around exposed teeth
on saw blades Safety glasses Tools Required: Multimeter In order to
demonstrate power tool safety, visually inspect the following: Power saws
Electric drills TECHNOLOGY TRANSFER SERVICES PRIVACY POLICY
TERMS OF USE ODESIE LICENSE HELP SITEMAP 0 WELCOME TO THE
INDUSTRIAL WIKI RESEARCH CONTENT IN GREATER DETAIL
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ WIKI MENU WIKI HOME RANDOM
PAGE MY SAVED ARTICLES SITE MENU STORE VIDEO ARCHIVE EVENT
CENTER FORUM Talk Page CARPENTRY MAINTENANCE Talk Page Basic
Carpentry Repairs Menu 1 Basic Carpentry Repairs 1.1 Repair a Sticking or
Binding Door 1.1.1 Door Repair 1.2 Repairing Drywall 1.2.1 Drywall Repairs
1.3 Installing Door Locks 1.3.1 Installing a Lock in a New Door 1.3.2
Removing a Door Lock 1.4 Types of Locks 1.4.1 Lever Tumbler Locks 1.4.2
Disc Tumbler Locks 1.4.3 Pin Tumbler Locks 1.4.4 Installing Rim Night Latch
1.5 Lock Maintenance 1.5.1 Removing a Broken Key from a Lock 1.5.2
Remove Broken Key from Lock 2 Power Tool Safety 2.0.1 Steps for Power
Tool Safety Talk Page Repair a Sticking or Binding Door Most doors that stick
or bind, especially wooden doors, are caused by one or more of the following
conditions: Paint buildup Thermal expansion Swelling Loose hinges Structure
of door loosens; rails and stiles Normally, there should be a uniform gap
around the door, usually 1/8 - 1/16. The door should close smoothly and
easily, latch firmly, and remain closed. Carefully observe the door as it
operates and note where the binding or rubbing occurs. Does the binding
appear to be at the top and/or bottom of the door only or on the hinge and/or
latch side of the door only? Table 1 lists some common problems with sticking
or binding doors and possible corrective actions to take. Table 1:
Sticking/Binding Door Repair Problems and Solutions Common Problem
Possible Correction Paint buildup Even binding on latch side and head
Thermal expansion Carefully remove paint with scrapper. If too difficult with a
scrapper, carefully use a heat gun or chemical removers. For this repair, the
door needs to be removed and planed. This should be done when the door is
expanded; usually occurs during the most humid part of the season. Loose
hinge (upper/lower) or worn pin Binding along the top on the latch side or
binding on the floor. Loose hinges (upper or lower). Observe the hinge after
opening it slightly. Push in toward the top and pull up on the door handle
(upper hinge). If it moves, the hinge is loose. Do the reverse for the lower
hinge. Try and tighten the screws without stripping them. If they cannot be
tightened or are stripped, try a longer screw. When using a longer screw,
make sure that the head of the screw will fit inside the countersink in the hinge
or it will nullify what you are trying to accomplish. If longer screws are not
feasible, remove the hinge and drill out the existing hole and insert a glued
dowel into the hole, let dry, and re-drill a new hole. Reinstall the hinge. Worn
hinge pin. Observe the hinge while pushing the door up and down. If the hinge
knuckle moves but the hinge does not, the pin is worn. Depending on the
condition of the pin or knuckle, the pin and/or the entire hinge may need
replacing. Foundation or building settling A gap on the latch side of the head
jamb or the door drags on the floor or vise versa. If the gap is at the top of the
door: Check for square at jambs and head. If gap is small enough so that you
cannot see into the other room, remove door and plane bottom. If gap is large
enough so that you can see into the other room, the doorframe must be
rebuilt. If the gap is at the bottom of the door: As above, check for square. If
not square, the doorframe must be rebuilt. Talk Page Door Repair Safety
Precautions: Use Safety glasses Tools Required: 2 x 6 provided by instructor
Screwdriver Portable drill Dowels Wood glue Steps to repairing a door: Check
a door for level and plumb to determine what is causing the door to stick and
what corrections need to be applied to correct the condition. Repair a worn
screw hole in a doorjamb. Talk Page Repairing Drywall Repairing holes in
sheetrock, large or small, requires some of the same basic steps. If the hole is
large, but not large enough to make the opening larger by going to the
adjacent studs, the hole should be squared off as reasonably as possible.
Using a scrap piece of 1x2 a little larger than the hole, screw the wood to the
existing drywall, placing the wood on the inside of the hole and leaving
sufficient wood exposed to screw the patch to it. Cut a patch that is equal to
the new holes size, trying not to leave more than 1/8-inch gap all the way
around the patch. Screw the drywall patch to the wood supports previously
installed. Using self-adhesive drywall tape, cover the seams around the patch.
If you are using paper tape, spread a layer of drywall taping compound over
the seams of the patch, and then press the tape into the compound using a 6"
taping knife. Apply a topcoat of compound over the tape, pressing out any
excess compound. Allow for drying and applying a second coat of compound
using a 12" taping knife, feathering the compound out further. Let dry and
sand to a smooth finish. Prime and paint. Figure 1: Repairing a Hole in
Drywall If the hole were large enough to expand it to the existing studs, then
supports would be required for the top and bottom portions of the hole. Talk
Page Drywall Repairs Safety Precautions: Safety glasses Work gloves Tools
Required Utility knife or hole saw Taping compound Putty knife Sponge block
Mud Steps to repairing drywall: Repair a small hole in a sheetrock wall. Talk
Page Installing Door Locks The two most common types of door locks are the
key-in-knob lock (Figure 2 and Figure 3) and the deadbolt (Figure 4). They
can be installed in solid or hollow-core doors; however, a hollow-core door
offers no security. Most key-in-knob and deadbolt locks purchased are
included in a kit containing the lock, the attaching hardware, and a paper
template used to mark new doors for the lock. They generally are installed in
the same manner. The template is used to ensure correct backset from the
door edge, providing the spacing for the latch and centering the latch in the
hole in the door edge. The template is not required if the lock is being
replaced. Attention must be paid to the location of the keyway. The keyway
normally is installed on the exterior of the door. Most new door locks are not
designated as either left- or right-handed. Standard sizes are 2 and 3/8 and 2
and 3/4 inches. Some locksets are adjustable between the two sizes. Figure
2: Key-in-Knob Door Lock Figure 3: Key-in-Knob Door Lock Parts Figure 4:
Deadbolt Figure 5 shows a mortise lockset that can be found on many metal
doors in large buildings. Figure 5: Mortise Lockset Talk Page Installing a Lock
in a New Door Safety Precautions: Safety glasses Tools Required: Phillips
screwdriver Steps: Mark the door edge approximately 36 inches from the
floor. Fold the template along the fold line. Using the template as a guide,
mark the door edge with the location for a 1 inch in diameter hole. This is the
latch hole. Using the template as a guide, mark the door face with the
approximate location for a 2 1/8-inch hole. This will be the cylinder hole. Drill
1/8-inch pilot holes, as marked in step 1, for both the 1-inch and the 2 1/8-inch
holes. Using a hole saw, drill the 2 1/8-inch hole from both sides to avoid
splitting the door face. Before drilling the 1-inch hole, mark the center of the
strike plate hole in the doorjamb by closing the door. Then, press a 2-inch 6d
common nail through the pilot hole from the inside of the 2 1/8 inch hole until
the nail makes an indentation in the doorjamb. Open the door and drill the 1-
inch hole in the door edge through to the 2 1/8-inch hole. Next, drill a 1-inch
hole at the point of the nail strike in the doorjamb to at least 1-inch in depth.
Insert the latch through the hole in the door edge, keeping the latch parallel to
the door face. Mark the outline and remove the latch. Chisel a 1/8-inch
mortise in the door edge. Check the fit of the latch. Chisel additional depth if
the latch face is not flush with the door edge. Install the latch so the latch will
slide and lock when the door is closed. Insert and tighten the screws. Check
the center of the strike for alignment with the latch hole on the door to ensure
free movement of the latch bolt. Mark the outline of the strike plate centered
over the strike hole. Remove the strike plate and chisel a 1/16 inch deep
mortise in the doorjamb. Check the fit of the strike plate and remove additional
material if the strike plate is not flush with the doorjamb. Align the strike plate,
insert screws, and tighten them. Press the exterior knob/lever (the exterior
knob has no visible screws) against the exterior surface of the door, making
certain the stems are positioned horizontally so they go through the holes in
the latch case. If the door lock has a keyhole, make sure that the keyhole is in
a vertical position and the key teeth are facing up. Install the interior
knob/level by placing it on the spindle and aligning the screw holes with the
stems. Push it flush against the door and insert the screws. Tighten the screw
near the door edge first, and then tighten the other until the lockset is firm.
Use caution when installing the lockset on a hollow-core door, as the screws
can be tightened enough to break the door faces. Overtightening of the
screws will affect the operation of the door lock. Talk Page Removing a Door
Lock Determine if the inside doorknob is held in place by a metal tab. If it is,
use a screwdriver, press on the tab and remove the inside doorknob.
Determine if the door lock uses a rose. A rose is a piece of metal covering the
screws securing the inside and outside of the door lock. Removing the rose
will provide access to the screws. Remove the two machine screws holding
the inside knob to the outside. With the screws removed, pull the outside of
the door lock from the latch. Remove the screws holding the latch faceplate in
the door edge. Pull the latch faceplate and latch from the door. The door is
now ready for a new lock. Talk Page Types of Locks A lock, as defined by the
International Association of Home Safety and Security Professionals, is: "a
device that incorporates a bolt, cam, shackle, or switch in order to secure an
object, such as a door, drawer, or machine, to a closed, opened, locked, off,
or on position, and that provides a restricted means of releasing the object
from that position." There are various types of locks in use today. The basic
types are: Warded locks Combination locks Electric locks Tumbler locks A
warded lock (Figure 6) is a fixed-position projection designed to prevent
unauthorized keys from entering or operating the lock. One old type of warded
lock comes in a metal case, has a large keyhole, and is operated with a bit
key. Warded locks provide little security because wards are easy to bypass
with a stiff piece of wire. This is the oldest lock still commonly used. It has a
simple design, straightforward internal structure, and an easily duplicated key.
The two types of warded locks currently in use are the surface mounted or the
mortised lock Figure 7. A mortise is a cavity created to contain something. A
mortised lock is installed in a cavity created in the door for the purpose of
containing the lock. Figure 6: Warded Lock Figure 7: Warded Locks
Combination locks are used as alternatives to key operated locks. The two
basic styles are pushbutton and dial. Pushing a specific sequence of buttons
operates pushbutton locks, which usually are labeled with letter or numbers.
Rotating one or more dials to specific positions operates dial combination
locks. Electric current operates an electric lock. One type is basically a bolt or
bar mechanism that does not have a keyed cylinder, knob, or turn-piece and
cannot be operated mechanically. Another type, called an electrified lock, is a
modified mechanical lock that can be operated either mechanically or with
electricity. Electric switch locks complete and break the electrical current when
an authorized key is inserted and turned. Tumblers are small objects, usually
made of metal, that move within a lock cylinder in ways that obstruct a locks
operation until an authorized key or combination moves them into alignment.
Talk Page Lever Tumbler Locks These locks (Figure 8) are found on luggage,
briefcases, and lockers and offer a low level of security. They can easily be
defeated with a hairpin, knife, or screwdriver. However, the lever type can also
be designed to offer a high degree of security, as with those used for safe-
deposit boxes. This lock requires a standard flat key. When the key is turned,
the various key cuts raise the corresponding lever tumblers to the correct
height; the gates of the levers align and release the bolt. The bolt stop must
pass through the gating from the rear to the front or vice versa, either
unlocking or locking the lock. Figure 8: Lever Lock Tumbler Lock Talk Page
Disc Tumbler Locks These locks (Figure 9) are often found on desks, file
cabinets, automobile doors, and glove compartments and offer a medium
level of security. This type of lock gets its name from the shape of the
tumblers. The disc tumblers are steel stampings arranged in slots in the
cylinder core. The rectangular hold or cutout in the side of the disc matches a
notch on the key bit. The protrusion on the side, known as the hook, locates
the spring. The disc stack is arranged with alternating hooks, one on the right
side of the lock and one on the left. Figure 9: Disc Tumbler Lock When the
correct key is inserted and turned, the cuts in the key raise the tumblers high
enough to clear the lower cylinder slot but not so high as to enter the upper
cylinder slot. The key arranges the tumblers along the upper and lower shear
lines, freeing the plug to rotate and throw the bolt. Talk Page Pin Tumbler
Locks This type of lock (Figure 10) provides a higher degree of security than
other types of tumbler locks, usually medium- to high- security. These locks
are used in most homes, high-security padlocks, automobile doors and
ignitions, and many types of correctional facility locks. The basic parts of a pin
tumbler include the cylinder case, the plug, the keyway, upper pin chambers,
lower pin chambers, springs, drivers, and bottom pins. Figure 10: Pin Tumbler
Cylinder The cylinder case houses all of the other parts of the cylinder. The
part that rotates when the proper key is inserted is called the plug. The
keyway is the opening in the plug that accepts the key. The drilled holes,
usually five or six across the length of the plug, are called lower pin chambers,
They each hold a bottom pin. The corresponding drilled holes in the cylinder
case directly above the plug are called upper pin chambers; they each hold a
spring and a driver. When a key is not inserted into the cylinder, the
downward pressure of the spring drives the drivers partially down into the plug
to prevent the plug from being rotated (see Figure 11). Only the lower portions
of the drivers are pushed in the plug because the plug holds the bottom pins.
When a properly cut key is inserted, it causes the top of all the bottom pins
and the bottom of all the drivers to meet at the shear line. When the pins are
in this position, the plug is free to rotate to the open position. Figure 11: Key in
Cylinder Talk Page Installing Rim Night Latch At the desired height, bore the
hole for the cylinder 1 1/4 inch diameter with the center a distance of 2 3/8
inches from the edge of the door. Insert the cylinder and ring from the outside
of the door and place the backplate on the inside of the door, connecting the
backplate with the cylinder by two connecting screws. Cut off screws to the
proper length relative to the doors thickness. Cut off the connecting bar so it
projects 3/8 inch beyond the inside of the door. Place the lock on the door so
that the connecting bar enters the slot. Using punched holes as a guide,
screw the lock to the door. Apply the strike to the doorjamb lower than the
centerline of the lock to allow for any sag in the door. Mortise the long lip into
the doorjamb and leave the short lip on the surface. Figure 12: Rim Night
Latch Installation Talk Page Lock Maintenance Most locks require little or no
maintenance. If a lock is sticking, a little graphite applied to the keyway
usually is sufficient to lubricate the inside of the lock. Talk Page Removing a
Broken Key from a Lock There are many ways to remove a broken key from a
lock. Much of it depends on the type of lock, how much of the key is broken
off, and whether or not the door is open. The tools required range from small
needle-nose pliers to a professional key removal kit (Figure 13). The idea is to
insert a thin piece of metal so as to be able to remove the broken piece from
the cylinder. Figure 13: Typical Key Extraction Tools Other more elaborate
removal procedures can be used, such as the following. Figure 14: Key
Removal Procedure Using Specialized Tools In addition to using specialized
tools, some simple methods may be applied to try and remove the broken key.
A precision drill can be used to drill a small hole in the back of the key so that
a spiral key extractor can be inserted into the hole to facilitate removal. In
addition, a homemade device made from a small, thin saw blade or spring-
steel fashioned to facilitate removal of the broken key. Talk Page Remove
Broken Key from Lock Safety Precautions: Safety glasses Tools Required:
Key removal tools Lubricant Coping saw blades (5) Basic Steps for removing
a broken key from a lock: Remove a broken key from a lock. Talk Page Power
Tool Safety Learning to work with power tools safely is one of the most
important aspects of building maintenance. In this section, we discussed
carpentry, but the basic rules for working with power tools apply to all aspects
of building maintenance, as well as working with them at home or off the job.
One of the most important things about power tools is never to use a tool you
are unfamiliar with. Always read and follow all instructions in the manual
supplied with the tool. Have someone with experience using the tool instruct
you on its proper use. Practice with the tool until you are familiar with its
operating characteristics. Never remove a guard or safety feature when using
the tool. Always use the proper tool for the proper job. When changing blades
or bits, always unplug the tool. Watch where your fingers are at all times.
Always wear the proper safety equipment required for using the tool, e.g.,
safety glasses, work gloves, face shield, ear plugs, etc. Never force the tool
when cutting or drilling; let the bit or blade do the work. Keep your tools in
good operating condition; never use a defective tool. Keep your bits and
blades sharp. Talk Page Steps for Power Tool Safety Safety Precautions:
Ensure power is removed from equipment Use caution around exposed teeth
on saw blades Safety glasses Tools Required: Multimeter In order to
demonstrate power tool safety, visually inspect the following: Power saws
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