Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Possible Cause:
Scratches on the breast beam of the
loom.
Bow
Possible Causes:
a) Bad preparation
b) Very weak or irregular yarn
c) Warp tension is too high
d) Improper working of warp stop motion
e) Bad dropper pin or shuttle, heald or
reed, race plate
f) Wrong timing of the shedding or picking
motion
g) Inadequate humidity and temperature
h) Size fly getting caught in shedding
A broken yarn is
partly picked and
partly broken.
Possible causes:
a) Tangled weft
yarn is
released from
the shuttle
Coarse End
Coarse Pick
Possible causes:
a) lashing of broken end
with adjoining end at
roving frame
b) disturbed weighting of back top rollers at roving frame and ring frame which
leads to the productin
of a very coarse yarn
due to the slippage of
material under the
back top roller
Coarse Pick
Possible causes:
a) spinning room draft
slack
b) Inadequate atmospheric
conditions
c) Presence in stock of
unduly long staple yarn
Cockled Weft
Cockled Weft
A discolored area
where the fabric is
damaged by friction
Crease Mark
Possible causes:
- mistake in drawing in
Double pick
Possible causes:
Starting loom is placed on
incorrect pick after pick-out and
the loom is turned backward
before starting
Possible causes:
Spotting of evaporated
water drop on the fabric
during dye fixation process.
Float
No proper interlacement of the warp and weft
yarns over a certain area. This defect is caused
by an entanglement of adjoining ends in the
region between the healds and the fell of the
cloth
Possible causes:
a) warp threads having knots with long tail
ends
b) warp yarn undersized
c) unsatisfactory working of the warp stop
motion
d) breakage of heald on running loom
Folded Selvedge
Possible causes:
a) Incorrect selvedge construction which
results in low crimp in the selvedge
threads. A slack selvedge is prone to
curling and folding as the loosely held
selvedge yarns are relatively free to relax
in the counter twist direction when the
fabric is wetted during processing
b) Faulty stitching during weft processing.
Curling and folding of selvedges can be
largely avoided if the selvedge yarns have
more crimp than the yarns in the body of
the fabric.
Possible solutions:
i) In faced fabrics with drills and satins construction, they have a pronounced
tendency to curl at the selvedge. Therefore, the selvedge weave has to be
correctly chosen. It not only to give the correct selvedge crimp but also to
produce a neat edge
j) The selvedge should have a shorter warp float length than the body. An
increase in the selvedge width also generally reduces its tendency to curl
Gout
Foreign matter(s), usually lint or waste,
are being woven in fabric by accident
Possible causes:
Fly and waste dropping into the loom
during weaving, or being caught in yarn
during spinning or in raw material.
A pick, caught on a
warp yarn knot for a
short distance which
produces a
triangular shaped
hole in the fabric
Possible causes:
a) harness time
too early
b) Weft tention
at beating up
is too low
c) Incorrect tied knots
Hole / Tear
It is characterized by
several adjacent severed
warp and / or weft threads
Knot
Ends of a break thread was tied with a knot in
preparation or weaving process
Knot with halo
During the dyeing process
the knot which was the
last to dry tended to wick
the dye from the
surrounding area, leaving
halo
Lashing-in / Dragging-in
Possible Causes:
- damaged picker, box front plae and
side weft fork
- weft hanging on weft
replenishment side
- inefficient shuttle eye cutter and
temple cutter
Possible Causes
Improper control of weft tension during tuck-in
selvedge information.
Loopy Weft
Weft loop is protruding out from the
cloth surface. The yarn length in the
loop is not sufficient to perform
snarling. These loops may protrude out
from both sides of the fabric. Weft
loops are essentially caused by
entanglements of threads in the warp
sheet between the reed and the fell of
the cloth.
Possible Causes
- Wrong selvedge design
- Abnormal tension of selvedge warp
yarn
- Inadequate temple adjustment
- reed width much is narrower than
the weaver's beam width
Possible Causes
Possible Causes
- wrong pickfinding
of starting loom
after fault during
weft stop motion
Mixed Weft
This defect is
characterised by
weft bar and it is
caused by
unintentional mixing
of two or more lots
of weft yarns in
different yarn count,
twist density, blend
composition,
hairiness or colour
and lustre.
Possible Causes
Neppy
Oil Staining
Possible Causes
Reediness
Possible Causes
Possible Causes
- faulty movement of the heald shafts due to worn out machine parts in the
shedding motion
- worn out places on the cloth take-up roller causing low tension for short
durations at certain places across the cloth width
- warp tension is too low
Skew
Slack End
Possible Causes
Smash
Possible Causes
Soiled End
Possible Causes
- lower velocity and different behaviour of the loom at the last pick before
machine stoppage and at the first pick after starting the loom. It gives way to
reed beat-ups with lower force amplitude
- inaccurate or nonsynchronized starting of warp yarn delivery or fabric take-up
after loom restarting
- stress relaxation of warp yarn and fabric during loom stoppage.
Temple Mark
Possible Causes
A fillingwise band or
bar either across the
full width of the cloth
or a portion of the
fabric. The area
contains less than
the normal number
of picks.
Possible Causes:
Tight End
Possible Causes
Tight Pick
Possible Causes
Warp Streak
Possible Causes
Warp Stripe
Possible Causes
A weftwise band or bar either across the full width of the cloth or a portion, contains
picks of larger diameter than normally being used in the fabric or contains more than
the normal number of picks.
- incorrect adjustment of cloth fell position by weaver after defective weft yarns
removal.
A short length of a three-fold weft yarn of which two folds are inter-twisted. Snarls may
also contain some amount of tangled yarn at one end. Snarls of the latter type are
usually located within a narrow band at almost a fixed distance from a selvedge.
Possible Causes
Chapter – 2
Problems in
Printing
Crack marks
Moire
Chapter – 3
Knitting faults
Bad Stripes
Definition
An unwanted horizontal bar in weft knitted fabrics.
Causes
Machine Related
l groups of yarn mispositionned in the creel
l improperly set negative or positive feed system
l improperly acting striper elements
l improperly set fabric take-down tension
l slipping take-up
l excessive speed
l improper roll density
Needle Related
l bent needles holding previous yarns on striper units
Solutions
Note whether the fabric uses coloured or only greige yarns
If the yarns are coloured
l check the yarn set-out in the creel to see if the correct colours are in the correct position
l check the package tickets to see that the count, twist, type, blend, supplier and/or merge etc. are
correct
If the yarns are undyed
l check the package tickets to see that the count, twist, type, blend, supplier and/or merge, etc. are
correct
Note whether the machine uses negative or positive feed
If the machine uses negative feed
l check for yarn trapping under packages
l check for package misalignments, incorrect balloon heights, differences in yarn path and element
damage
l check for differences in yarn input tensions and yarn feeding rates
l check for relative knock-over depths between feeders and/or relative knock-over depths between
cylinder and dial
l check for incorrect spreader widths, spreader tilt and incorrect and/or inconsistent fabric take-down
tensions If the machine uses positive feed
l check yarn input pre-tension levels for uniformity and predefined tension levels
l check for lint in pre-positive feed disc and gate tensioners
l check for individual and relative positive feed input speeds and post-unit yarn tension levels
l check positive feed units for yarns not under the belts and/or not properly wrapped on the storage
feed drums
l check for slipping, slick and worn positive feed driving belts
l check for incorrect spreader widths, spreader tilt and incorrect and/or inconsistent fabric take-down
tensions
Barré
Definition
A horizontal defect in weft knitted fabrics appearing as light
or dark coursewise bands that can be continuous and/or
intermittent.
Causes
Yarn Related
l individual or grouped differences in
yarn friction
l optical differences between individual
and/or small groups of yarns due to
differences in Spun and Filament.
l poor knot quality
l lint build-up yarns and/or tails
l yarn contamination
l detwisting of yarn tails
l using rewound and non-rewound yarns on the same machine
Machine Related
l individual or groups of yarn mispositionned in the creel
l improperly set negative or positive feed system
l improper dial condition
l improper cylinder condition
l improperly set fabric take-down tension
Needle Related
l small groups of new needles
l small groups of mixed needles
Solutions
Locate the barré by running in coloured yarn tracers
If the barré is single course barré
l check the respective feeder for yarn placement errors
l check the respective feeder for yarn character errors
l check the respective feeder for yarn package damage
l check the respective feeder on negative feed machines for; yarn trapping, package crowding,
package misalignment, incorrect balloon height, yarn path correctness, feeder tube and other yarn path
element damage
¡ yarn input tension, yarn input speed, cam damage, relative knock-over differences on cylinder and
dial
l check the respective feeder on positive feed machines for:
¡ yarn input pre-tension level
¡ lint in pre-positive feed disc and gate tensioners
¡ individual yarns not under the positive feed tapes or not properly wrapped around the storage feed
drum
¡ slick, stretched and/or slipping tapes and/or driving belts
Bowing
Definition
A fault in a weft knitted fabric consisting of an unwanted curvature in the courses in the fabric imposed
during knitting and/or subsequent processing.
Causes
Yarn Related
l shade and/or colour differences highlight bowing Machine Related
l Forward Bow
¡ knitting the fabric too loose
¡ using excessive take-down tension in the center of the fabric
¡ using an excessive spreader width
¡ using a spreader which does not pull the fabric down evenly across the full fabric width
¡ using too low a roll hardness or density
¡ "arrowheading" rolls of fabric at roll start-up
l Backward Bow
¡ knitting the fabric too loose
¡ using excessive take-down tension at both sides of the fabric
¡ using too narrow a spreader width
¡ using a spreader which does not pull the fabric down evenly across the full fabric width
¡ using too low a roll hardness or density
¡ "side-tucking" rolls of fabric at roll start-up
l Compound Bow
¡ knitting the fabric too loose
¡ using a tilted and/or unstable spreader
¡ using eccentric take-down rollers
¡ using an uneven roll up technique at roll start-up
¡ using too low a roll hardness or density
Solutions
Note whether the fabric uses coloured or only greige yarns.
Note whether the fabric exhibits forward, backward or compound bowing
l check respective yarn count(s) for faulty yarn placement by checking package stickers
l check yarn input feed rates by means of a yarn speed meter or a yarn length counter
l check spreader width and/or tilt and/or stability
l check take-down for take-down tension level and consistency
l check for the way in which the roll end is initially wound on to the roll pin
l check for roll density by comparing take-down speed and wind-on rates
Creasing
Definition
Unwanted folds in a weft knitted fabric introduced by deformation of the yarn in the fabric and/or of the
fabric structure during knitting and/or subsequant processing.
Causes
Machine Related
l knitting the fabric too loose
l using an inappropriate spreader setting
l using poor roll centering
l using an inappropriate roll hardness or density
l using an inappropriate nip roll pressure at the fabric edges
l not using a tapered take-up shaft to facilitate doffing
l enveloping rolls after doffing
Solutions
Note whether the creases occur at the sides only or in other areas of the fabric
If side creases only are noted on one or both ends
l check for spreader width, levelness, stability and type of spreader suitability
l check for roll centering
l check for nip pressure at sides of cloth
l check for proper spline roll usage
l check to see if take-down rollers have been lagged If other than only side creases are noted
l check for correctness of yarn input rates
l check for correctness of yarn count
l check for spreader width, levelness and stability
l check roll density and density consistency
l check nip pressure consistency across the full width
l check roll start-up technique suitability after doffing
l check to see that rolls are not enveloped after doffing
http://www.exeltor.com/anglais/world/guide/drop.htm 12/27/99
Dropped Stitches / Ladder
Definition
A defect in weft knitted fabric consisting of unbroken
loops of yarn
which have unintentionally been dropped by the
needles during
knitting because of yarn and/or course length
variations.
Causes
Yarn Related
l yarn variations encountered during knitting
Machine Related
l using an incorrect yarn count for the machine
gauge
l improperly set negative feed system
l improper dial condition
l improper cylinder condition
l improperly set fabric take-down tension
Needle Related
l dirt or lint behind and/or under needles
l incorrect hook size and shape for yarn count
and/or type
l new needles
l worn needles
l mixed needles
l bent needles, hooks and/or latches
l chipped latches, hooks and/or cheeks
l rolled hooks
l stiff or magnetized latches
l worn, rough and/or scored needles
l bent, worn and/or scored slots
l bent, chipped and/or worn needles butts
l bouncing or vibrating needles
l bent, chipped and/or worn selectors and/or butts
Solutions
Note whether the dropped stiches occur randomly or along specific wales
If the dropped stiches occur along specific wales, identify and note whether the dropped stitches occur
on the cylinder and/or dial side of the fabric
l check for worn, tight and/or slick tricks
l check for verge and/or trick damage
l check for a loose needles retaining spring
l check for dirt and/or lint under and/or behind needles and/or sinkers
l check for proper yarn count-needle hook shape and/or size suitability
l check for needle "newness", wear and/or needle mixing
l check for bent, rough and/or chipped needles, hooks, butts and/or latches
l check for roiled hooks
l check for stiff and/or magnetized latches
Holes
Definition
A defect in weft knitted fabrics consisting of
unwanted openings in the fabric caused by yarn
breakage during knitting; small holes are normally
called pin-holes.
Causes
Yarn Related
l significant differences in yarn character
Machine Related
l using a yarn count inappropriate for the
machine gauge
l using machines with too high a feeder density
l knitting structures with an excessive number of
tuck loops
l improperly set negative or positive feed system
l improper dial condition
l improper cylinder condition
l improper needle and/or sinker timing
l using the incorrect type or size of sinker
l improperly set needle gaiting
l using a machine with too high a gauge
l disconnected, tied back or slow stop motions
l threading two yarns through one stop motion
l improperly set fabric take-down tension
Needle Related
l bent needles, hooks and/or latches
l stiff needle latches
l mixed needle sizes and/or shapes
l worn, rough or scored needles
l scored or protruding rivets or dimples
l spread or rolled needle hooks
l bent and/or scored slots
l chipped latches, hooks and/or cheeks
l latches trapped in needle hooks
l bouncing or vibrating needles
Solutions
Determine, by analysis, if the holes are caused by knot related yarn breakage or only
yarn breakage Note whether the holes are large or whether they are merely pinholes. If
the holes are large, then yarn breakage probably occurred prior to fabric formation
whereas pinholes occur because of yarn breakage at or slightly after fabric formation
For large holes
l check to see that yarn count, friction, strength, uniformity and torque levels are adequate and
consistent
l check to see that knot or yarn join quality is adequate and consistent
l check to see that slubs and poor knots (and long tails) are removed prior to their reaching yarn
carrier eyelets
l check to see that the machine is properly cleaned and kept clean
l check to see that noting blocks or restricts the yarn during knitting
l check to see that all machine settings, yarn speeds, run-in ratios, yarn tension levels and machine
speeds are correct as noted on the fabric construction sheet
For pinholes
l check to see that yarn count, friction, strength, elongation and torque levels are
adequate and consistent
l check to see that knot or yarn join quality is adequate and consistent
l check to see that the correct yarn count-machine gauge is correct and consistent
l check to see that individual needles are causing the yarn to break because they
are defective, mixed or not under control
l check to see that individual sinkers are causing the yarn to break because they
are defective, mixed or not under control
l check to see that needle or sinker timing is correct
l check to see that the fabric take-down tension is adequate and consistent
l check to see that machine speed is not excessive
Needle Lines
Definition
A defect in weft knit fabrics consisting of
lengthwise streaks which appear parallel to
the Wales: such streaks can consist of
individual and/or multiple Wales.
Causes
Machine Related
l improper dial condition
l improper cylinder condition
Needle Related
l small groups of new needles
l small groups of mixed needles
l new needles
l mixed individual needles
l not using spacers or dummy needles or rotating needles
l dirt or lint behind and/or under needles
l incorrect hook size and shape for yarn count and/or type
l worn, rough and/or scored needles
l spread and/or rolled hooks
l bent, worn and/or scored slots
l bent needles, hooks and/or latches
l chipped latches, hooks and/or cheeks
l stiff or magnetized latches
l latches strapped in hooks
l scored or protruding rivets or dimples
l bouncing or vibrating needles
l bent, chipped and/or worn needle butts
l bent, chipped and/or worn selectors and/or butts
Solutions
Determine whether the needle lines occur individually or in bands
If the needle line(s) occur on an individual wale basis, trace the needle line(s) to the appropriate
defective needle(s), examine and replace the needle(s) taking care to minimize the same problem in
the future as noted in B, C and D. Once this action has been done it should be noted that
l a wale that is not formed at all is caused by either a closed hook or a missing butt
l a wale that exhibits an extended ripped appearance in the fabric and a pile up on the needle hook is
caused by a missing latch or a damaged butt
l a wale that has a fuzzy appearance is caused by a rough or chipped needle; in addition, the needle
has lint on it in the machine
l a wale that has periodic irregularities, such as drops or holes along its length, is caused by a bent
latch or a bent hook
l a wide wale is caused by a bent or mixed needle
l a narrow wale is caused by a mixed needle
Eliminate all possible sources of yarn related problems which can cause needle breakage
l check to see that slub catchers are used in the creel
l check to see that yarn package tails do not hang down in the creel and collect lint
l check to see that a weavers knot is being used and tails are neatly clipped to 1/8th of a inch
Eliminate all possible mechanically related problems which can cause direct and/or
indirect needle breakage by making certain that mechanical adjustments do not cause
the yarns to break or the cylinder and/or dial tricks and verges to become damaged.
Re-establish and maintain proper preventative maintenance and cleaning policies once
damaged needles have been replaced so that tricks do not build-up with lint, wax
and/or oil. If a needle band occurs, trace the band to the appropriate defective, mixed
(and/or new) needles taking care to minimize the problem in the future by examining
preventative maintenance policies (i.e.,
stop motion reaction times and settings), cleaning policies and needle storage and
replacement policies.
Tuck Stitches
Definition
A defect in weft knitted fabric consisting of
unwanted held loops which can appear
randomly in the fabric and/or within specific
Wales.
Causes
Yarn Related
l yarn variations encountered during knitting
l lint build-up
Needle related
Machine Related l new needles
l using an incorrect yarn count for the l mixed needles
machine gauge l incorrect hook size and shape for yarn count
l using machines with too high a feeder and/or type
density l spread or rolled needle hooks
l improperly set negative or positive feed l dirt or ling behind and/or under needles (and
system sinkers)
l improperly acting striper elements l worn, rough and/or scored needles (and/or
l improper dial condition sinkers)
l improper cylinder condition l bent needles, hooks and/or latches
l improper needle or sinker timing l bent, worn and/or scored slots
l damaged or poorly set pattern selection l stiff or magnetized latches
device l scored rivets or dimples
l oil accumulations l bent, chipped and/or worn needle butts
l improperly set fabric take-down tension l bouncing or vibrating needles
l excessive speed l bent, chipped and/or worn selectors and/or
butts
Solutions: Note whether the trucking occurs randomly or along specific Wales
If the tucking occurs along specific wales, identify and note whether the dropped stitches occur on the
cylinder and/or dial side of the fabric
l check for worn, tight and/or slick tricks
l check for verge and/or trick damage
l check for a loose needle retaining spring (when applicable)
l check for dirt and/or lint under or behind the needles
l check for the proper yarn count-needle hook shape and/or size suitability
l check for needle newness, wear and/or mixing
l check for bent, rough and/or chipped needles, hooks, butts and/or latches
l check for stiff and/or magnetized latches
If the tuck stiches occur randomly
l check package stickers to see if there are differences in yarn
character and/or count
l check for yarn package damages and unwinding problems
l check for yarn trapping, package crowding, package misalignments, incorrect balloon heights, yarn
path consistency, feeder tube and other yarn path damage and wax, lint and/or oil build-ups
l check for lint between tensioning discs
l check for air turbulence problems
l check for input yarn tension consistency
l check for input yarn speed settings
l check for carrier setting errors and threading problems
l check dial height suitability
l check for camming damage
l check for take-down tension level and consistency
l check machine speed
Possible causes:
By contamination with concentrated dyestuff or
dyeing assistants
Possible causes:
By the malfunctioning of the loop forming
elements
SLUB
Possible causes:
By the presence in the yarn of fragments of
undrafted roving or stubbing that have not
been cleared during winding
Possible causes:
By twist-lively yarn (due to in-sufficient setting)
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