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The former kingdom of the Wodeyars


is a grand, historic city that surprises
you with its interesting regal heritage

WHY GO?
It’s probably the most vibrant city in South India,
with magnificent monuments, popular markets
and a history of yoga and ayurveda. Mysore’s
economy is booming, too, with sandalwood, silk
and incense production putting it on the map.

WHAT IS THERE TO DO?


With so many things to do in Mysore,
it won’t be surprising if you lose
count. There are more than
MINI GUIDE October 2012 enough sights, including the
Rail Museum, St Philomena’s
Cathedral, the Chamundi Hill
and, best of all, the majestic

Mysore, Mysore Palace. The sweet


and savoury dishes here
are terrific, such as Mysore

Karnataka
pak, a sweet delicacy that’ll
have you coming back for more.

Left: The Mysore Palace is dazzling


when lit up
Right: The Mysore Zoo is a must-see
on a visit to the city

See & do Sleep Fold 1


BEST FOR PALACES 1 While the Parklane Hotel’s 6
The royal Mysore Palace exterior is a little utilitarian,
or Maharaja’s Palace has its rooms are extremely
luxurious interiors, with frescoes comfortable, especially given
and some of Raja Ravi Varma’s the low price. It’s also very
paintings. Photography is conveniently located next to
prohibited (00-91-821-2421051; the Mysore Palace (00-91-821-
mysorepalace.gov.in; 10am – 4003500; parklanemysore.com,
5.30pm daily; ` 40 adult, child parklanemysore@yahoo.com;
below 10 free). The Shri Chamundeswari Temple 2720, Harsha Rd; from ` 1,800). The rooms at the Green Hotel
is an architectural delight The Royal Inn 7 is ideally are cosy and quaint
BEST FOR MUSEUMS 2 located, close to the city’s major
The Rail Museum exhibits the sights. It is an efficient business Bali-style hotel, known for
‘Rail Story’, which tells of how BEST FOR CHURCHES 4 hotel with conference facilities its stylish rooms and quality
Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines

the royals rode the railways St Philomena’s Cathedral, (00-91-821-2415127; royalinn- fine-dining restaurant
in the past. The main attraction an example of Neo-Gothic mysore.com, info@royalinn- (reservations: 00-91-80-41142408;
is the Maharani’s saloon, built architecture, can be easily mysore.com; 435, KRS Rd, thewindflower.com, reservations
in 1899 (KRS Rd; 9.30am – 6.30pm recognised by its exquisite Metagalli; from ` 2,200). @thewindflower.com;
Tues – Sun; ` 5 adult, ` 2 child). stained-glass windows (00-91- The Green Hotel 8 is possibly Maharanapratap Rd, Nazarbad;
821-2563148; St Philomena St; Mysore’s quirkiest. Rooms are from ` 5,100 with breakfast).
BEST FOR TEMPLES 3 5am – 6pm, English mass named and designed along Originally built as a residence
Located at the top of Chamundi 7am; free). themes like Bollywood, Small for British visitors of the Maharaja
Hill at an altitude of 1,062m, Bollywood, Marigold and Writing in 1920, the Royal Orchid
Shri Chamundeswari Temple BEST FOR ART GALLERIES 5 (00-91-821-4255000; green Metropole 10 is a four-star
was named after the Goddess Located in the Jaganmohan hotelindia.com, thegreenhotel@ hotel showcasing the heritage
Chamundeswari. It provides Palace, Jayachamarajendra airtelmail.in; Chittaranjan of this city (00-91-821-4255566;
a great view of the city below. Art Gallery houses some Palace, 2270, Vinobha Rd, royalorchidhotels.com, rooms@
This temple has a gigantic 40m- rare musical instruments and Jayalakshmipuram; from ` 3,250). royalorchidhotels.com;
high gateway or gopuram (00-91- traditional Mysore gold-leaf The world-class Windflower No 5 Jhansi Lakshmibai Rd;
821-2590027; mysorechamundi paintings (00-91-821-2423693; Spa and Resort 9 is a rare, from ` 5,700).
temple.com; 7.30am – 2pm, Jaganmohan Palace Rd; 8.30am
3.30pm – 6pm, 7.30pm – 9pm). – 5pm; ` 20 adult, ` 10 child). TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS
MINI GUIDE

6
Mysore, Karnataka
Getting around See Eat & drink Sleep
Essentials
GETTING THERE

666
Mysore
Train Karnataka 4 12 The nearest airport is in Bangalore.
Station Tourism Most airlines fly to Bangalore from
2 Playing Fields Irwin Rd all major metros. Minimum return
Vishvesrivarajah Circle Irwin Rd fares start at ` 4,000. Travelling
Nehru Circle
by road on the Bangalore-Mysore

H a n u ma n t
KR

d
Rd

66
highway is a convenient way to

ies R
Say
Government
7 Dh a
nvan Hospital KR Hospital Rd get to Mysore (140km south-west

Uma Talk
yaji
th ri R of Bangalore), and should take up
d

KT St
ha R
Dhanvan ri Rd Rao
to three hours.
d

Bengalu
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Ashoka Rd
ao
10 an Koth See
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# THE COST
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Sardar
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r u-Nilg i
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ramp Patel Rd Gandhi


8 et) Rd Devaraja upt LOW HIGH
Sq drag
Market Cha
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Naz

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i Bai Rd

arba
Devaraj Urs d Ma DIFFICULTY OF TRAVEL
in Rd
Narayan

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Rd 6 13
#
Krishnaraja Harsha # LOW HIGH
(KR) Rd
Lakshm

666
666
6 6
New Statue
Circle Circle Victo
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d WHEN TO GO
o Rd
Jhansi

Hardinge Mysore is at its best around the


5
Ra

CHINA Circle festival of Dussehra (September


Sayaji

PAKISTAN
CHAMARAJAPURA – October), when the Mysore

Rd

66
66
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Ramavila Palace is completely illuminated
iri
INDIA s Rd 1
Maharaja's i lg and the city itself becomes
u-N

Palace a carnival with concerts, dance


r

A r a b i a n S e a
alu

performances and cultural


Bay of Bengal

MYSORE
9
ng

South Gate
# events from all over India.
Be

66
66
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Andaman
Sea

Eat & drink


I n d i a n O c e a n

The sweet shop Bombay


Tiffanys 11 is great for snacks
and sweets, especially the local
delicacy, melt-in-your-mouth
Mysore pak, made of ghee, sugar
and besan, golden-yellow

WORDS: RAGHAV BIKHCHANDANI PHOTOGRAPHS: HIMANSHU PANDYA, AKSHATA VIVEKA JOSHI, CORBIS, GETTY
in colour and displayed as
compressed bricks (Sayyaji Rao
Rd; 7.30am – 10pm; Mysore
pak ` 200/ kg).
Located on the Bangalore-
Mysore highway, Kamat Try the excellent South Indian fare A boat ride in the Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary is a great way to get around
at Kamat Lokaruchi and see as much wildlife as possible
Lokaruchi 12 serves authentic
Karnataka vegetarian snacks,
such as the chilli bajji, the neer
dosa and the maddur vada, all
You’ll find classic Andhra-style
food at Hotel RRR 14 , where one
Side trip of the park. Be sure to pack your
binoculars if you plan on visiting,
delightfully deep-fried (00-91- of the best dishes is the hot veg Situated on one of the three and wear earth-coloured clothes
9008555933; Janupada Loka, thali, served on a banana leaf. islands of the Cauvery River, the that will help you blend in with
Archakrahalli, Ramanagara, Some good non-vegetarian Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary your surroundings (00-91-821-
Bangalore – Mysore highway; options are also available is a great place for bird watching 2481159; 8.30am – 6pm; entry
maddur vada ` 20). (00-91-821-2441979; Gandhi (19km north of Mysore). The best ` 25, boat ride `100).
The unassuming restaurant Square; 11am – 11pm; mains time to see the storks, spoonbills,
at the Parklane Hotel 13 from ` 40) cormorants, egrets and ibises FIND OUT MORE
offers a surprising variety The intriguing cane-themed is either early in the morning Lonely Planet India is great
of dishes spanning Indian, multi-cuisine restaurant at Pai or late afternoon on a boat ride. for information on Mysore.
continental, Italian, Mexican Vista, Gufha 15 , offers brilliant Crocodiles, pelicans, hornbills Full of useful tips and
and Chinese cuisine. Weekends food and fast service but the and other birds and animals can suggestions, it also carries
are a real treat with barbeque main attraction here is the also be found here. Keep your a map. For more, log
nights (00-91-821-2430400; ambience, which is reminiscent ears open for the chirping of the on to inmysore.com.
parklanemysore.com; of an Indiana Jones film (00-91- many birds flying around. There
2270, Sri Harsha Rd, 9945615420; paihotels.com; is also a restaurant located within For more details, log on to
mains from ` 40). 35/A Bangalore-Nilgiri Rd). the premises lonelyplanet.com

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