Menswear

Learning Diary

Submitted by:
Anisha Bhagchandani
Semester 7
Group ‘A’
 History of menswear

Late 1800s: Last of the Victorians

As the nineteenth century came to an end men were slowly shaking-off the Victorian influence
which still had them wearing tophats, frock coats, and pocket watches while carrying walking sticks.
This may seem like an elaborate and restrictive way to dress, but it was a big step in the right
direction considering the Georgian period that proceeded it had men wearing feathers, panty hose,
and high heels.
1900s: Tall, long and lean

As we moved into the 1900s men’s clothing was predominantly utilitarian and rather unimaginative.
The long, lean, and athletic silhouette of the late 1890s persisted, and tall, stiff collars characterize
the period. Three-piece suits consisting of a sack coat with matching waistcoat and trousers were
worn, as were matching coat and waistcoat with contrasting trousers, or matching coat and trousers
with contrasting waistcoat. Trousers were shorter than before, often had “turn-ups” or “cuffs“, and
were creased front and back using the newly-invented trouser press.
1920s: Broadening horizons

After the war (which introduced numerous classic menswear designs which are still used today, like
trench coats and cargos), business started to pick-up and Americans had more money. More money
allowed them to travel more and broaden their horizons culturally and aesthetically. Many crossed
the Atlantic to England and France. Naturally they returned with suitcases full of the latest fashions
being worn overseas.
Of all the countries, England had the most influence on American menswear. In the 1920s American
college students began putting their own spin on pieces being worn at the legendary Oxford
University, including button-down shirts, natural-shouldered jackets, regimental ties, and colorful
argyle socks. Furthermore, the Prince of Wales, who later became the Duke of Windsor, was the
world’s most important and influential menswear figure. Through newsreels, newspapers, and
magazines the elegant Prince became the first international “style icon” and became widely known
and renowned for his impeccable taste in clothing. He was a legitimate trendsetter for every day
people and it was the first time in history that clothing advertisers would use a celebrity face to sell
clothing, shamelessly plugging their items “as worn by the Prince”.
1930s: The height of elegance

The begining of the 1930s saw the great depression. Although the average man couldn’t afford to
partake in the world of fashion, many often enjoyed observing the style choices of those who could.
Hollywood films on the Silver Screen became a beacon for hope for the working class man living in
this era. Men and women alike looked with admiration and aspiration to elegantly dressed stars like
Fred Astaire, Clark Gabel, Cary Grant, and Gary Cooper.
In the 1930s the American taste level was at its peak, rivaling that of any European country. It was a
time when American men took pride in the clothing they wore and the image they projected. It was
a time when men dressed by certain codes of conduct and etiquette. The “menswear rules”, which
we often reference, were written in this period.

“For the first time American men realized that clothing should not be worn to hide the natural lines
of the body, but, rather, to conform to them, thereby enhancing he male physique. At the same
time, clothes should not be too obvious. Instead, they had to become part of the man who was
wearing them. The idea of clothing was not to set the man apart (as had been the case for centuries,
when kings and noblemen dressed primarily to accomplish just that) but to allow him to be an
individual among individuals…. Americans had finally leanred that the goal of good clothing was to
flatter rather than be conspicuous.” – Alan Flusser
1940s: The birth of ready-to-wear

With the end of World War II, American men strayed from the high standards and basic principles of
fine dress established in the thirties. Part of this was changes in the workforce and the loss of
formality in everyday life. With lower demand, the price of custom tailoring rose, which allowed for
the mass production of menswear to takeover as the everyday norm. This period saw the
introduction of mass-produced ready-to-wear clothing in America, by some brands that are still
selling us clothing today.
There were positives and negatives to these new methods of mass production. On the one hand,
basic clothing was cheaper and more accessible than ever. On the other hand, there was less variety
in the styles being offered, and, much worse, these major clothing manufacturers realized (just like
the automobile manufacturers) that they could stimulate sales by offering changes in styles every
year, or even every season. This began the “trend cycle” in retail, which was created by clothing
manufacturers to make more money and propagated by the magazine industry, also to make more
money.
Ultimately this marketing strategy pushed the consumer further and further away from the “ideals
of classical dress” established in the 1930s, which were all about choosing long-term pieces that best
flatter the body. Instead the goal of clothiers became to confuse and pressure the consumer to
continually “re-invent himself” by purchasing “new styles” that are “in fashion”. More sales,
regardless of the longevity or aesthetic of the look.
1950s: The age of conformity

The 1950s was the Age of Conformity. Young men returning from the military were anxious to fit
right in with the establishment. Fitting in and “looking the part” meant taking on the Ivy League look,
which was dominating menswear. Individuality in style of clothing was an afterthought. The goal was
to look “part of the club”, in a boxy sack suit, oxford shirt, rep tie, and loafers. This was another big
boost for mass Ready-to-Wear manufacturers who gladly sold the same ill-fitting tweed jackets to
any young man trying to look smart and employable.

Furthermore, the 1950s saw the introduction of man-made fabrics like rayon and nylon. This was
another boost to the bottom line for the clothing manufacturers who could now save significantly on
the cost of fabric, while producing a garment that was thought to be “more durable and easiest to
wash”. As it turns out, synthetic cloth makes for terrible menswear garments, especially in suiting.
Natural fibers are always better.
Aesthetically the period was dominated by conservative grey suits and minimalist accessories (hat,
pocket square, cigarette, and martini) for just about everyone.
1960s: Rebellion and Individuality
The 1960s were a decade of unrest and rebellion against the establishment and the conservatism
that was celebrated in the 1950s. Clothing reflected this new attitude, especially with the youth who
were more concerned with self-expression and individuality than classical dressing by the
“rulebook”. The clothing industry caught on to this new wave with the youth, and offered a plethora
of styles. Stores carried more variety than ever. It was approaching an “anything goes” period,
where often the thing that mattered the most was not what you wore, but what you didn’t wear.
The was also the first time that fathers began looking to their sons for advice. The first time in
history that grown men wanted to look young and care-free. This trend, of course, only took us
further away from the rules of elegance that were established in the 1930s.
1970s: Disco Funk
The early 1970s were a continuation of late 1960s hippie rebel fashion. For men this particularly
meant bell bottom jeans, tie dye shirts, and military surplus clothing. The most popular accessories
of the early 1970s for men were homemade, with necklaces, headbands, and bracelets being made
from all-natural materials such as wood, hemp, and leather.
Men began to wear stylish three-piece suits (which became available in a bewildering variety of
colors) which were characterized by wide lapels, wide legged or flared trousers, and high-rise
waistcoats. Neckties became wider and bolder, and shirt collars became long and pointed as the
“disco funk” was all the rage.
1980s: Power Dressing

In the 1980s things got a little more serious, with broad shoulders framing power ties and
suspenders. Bold colors and graphic patterns conveyed a new national confidence and businessmen
took to power dressing with an emphasis on expensive clothing and gaudy accessories.
1990s: Baggy Business Casual

The fashion in the 1990s was the genesis of a sweeping shift in the western world: the beginning of
the adoption of tattoos and body piercings. This brought back the indifferent, anti-conformist
approach to fashion, leading to the popularization of the casual chic look; this included T-shirts,
distressed jeans, oversized hoodies, and trainers. “Business Casual” also enters the lexicon as
corporate offices generally become less formal.
2000s: Hip-hop & European tailoring

Menswear in the new millennium was influenced primarily by hip-hop culture for the youth, and
European “slim fit” tailoring for the older gents. The suit finally started to slim down, as the
“European cut” became highly sought after in America, to the point where eventually it became hard
to find stores that didn’t carry “slim fit”. The internet also made it easier for men to learn about
menswear and share their opinions with fellow style enthusiasts. We saw the birth of the first
menswear blogs, with this one starting in 2009.
2010s: The evolution of style online

The 2010s have brought us the evolution of the “fashion star”. Fashion bloggers have become
mainstream. On the one hand, suddenly fashion is in the hands of the people, producing a larger
variety of styles, reviews, and opinions than ever before. On the other hand, those being watched
are naturally encouraged to try harder and harder to stand out from the crowd. “Peacocking”
became a menswear term in the early part of the decade for “trying too hard”, although men have
generally become more confortable with subtle, tasteful styling.
This period also marked the widespread acceptance of online shopping. Style enthusiasts from all
over the world now have access to more brands than ever, from the convenience of their homes.
The internet also allowed for more start-up brands than ever, marketed using social media and
funded with online resources like kick-starter. In a way, we’re starting to see the re-surgence of the
small brand, fueled by the power of the internet and the desire for consumers to have something
limited and exclusive. The best part is, middle men are getting cut-out every day. Department stores,
who’s business is marking-up goods that have already been marked-up by the wholesaler, are losing
their stranglehold on the market as designers now have a scalable solution to sell their products
directly to their consumers.
 Fashion Icon: Harry Styles
Harry Styles is definitely one of the best-dressed men in the industry at the moment; his theatre tour
and arena tour have brought some of the most beautiful suits and fashion choices to the public’s
attention. Harry is very fond of his custom-made Gucci, Alexander McQueen, Calvin Klein, and Saint
Laurent suits, shoes, and other accessories and he has truly outdone himself.

Concert in Antwerp, Belgium (Wearing Alexander McQueen): The silver embroidered cuffs and custom crystal
boots really pull this suit together and make him look like the rock star he truly is.

Concert in Copenhagen, Denmark (Wearing Gucci)

Concert in Glasgow, Scotland (Traditional Scottish

Highland Dress)
 Met Gala 2019

“Camp” was the evening’s theme and Harry Styles

distilled it in his own, masterful way.

There’s an ineffable brilliance about Styles in Gucci,

particularly when he experiments with a more feminine
look such as this. With his tattooed torso visible
through a sheer shirt complemented by just the right
number of ruffles, Styles’ aesthetic isn’t a million miles
away from the heyday of ’80s power silhouettes and the
New Romantic movement.

What made Styles’ outfit so special were the details that

went into it. There was the pearl earring that lent a touch
of ’80s glam, the slicked-back rock and roll hair and black
and mint green nail polish; and the rings.