n° 1

a c li m b in g gym
Belaying in
 Access the inaccessible. You have aspirations and our job is to help you realize them to the fullest extent
possible.
Petzl's ACCESS BOOK booklets are designed to go with you as you prepare for and achieve your goals
as a mountaineer, climber, skier… Each ACCESS BOOK covers one particular activity. It is a collection of
selected technical tips from Petzl.com
This first booklet is dedicated to indoor climbing, for learning and/or reviewing the basics of top-rope or
lead climbing.

Put on your shoes, and good climbing!

Warnings:
- These booklets present an excerpt from the body of techniques for the activity
- Get training and practice in the techniques of the activity
- Carefully read the Instructions for Use of the products associated with the proposed techniques
- The environment and the activity itself are inherently dangerous. You are responsible for your own
actions and decisions

Contents

PREPARATION
Tying in with a figure 8 knot 2

PREPARATION
Partner check 3

BASICS OF BELAYING
Belaying a climber on top rope 4

BASICS OF BELAYING
Belaying a climber on lead 8

BASICS OF BELAYING
Lowering 12

LEAD CLIMBING
Clipping 14

LEAD CLIMBING
© Petzl / Lafouche

Errors to avoid 16

BELAYING IN A CLIMBING GYM 1

PREPARATION PREPARATION

Tying in with a figure 8 knot Partner check

- Harness waistbelt above the hips

- Harness adjusted to fit snugly

- Rope installed in the proper

direction (belay device function
check)
- Carabiner connected to the
correct place on the harness
- Carabiner is locked

- Tied-in to the correct place on

the harness
- The correct knot
- Knot finished and tightened

4 inch - Knot tied in the end of the rope

MIN

2 ACCESSBOOK — n° 1 BELAYING IN A CLIMBING GYM 3

BASICS OF BELAYING BASICS OF BELAYING

Belaying a climber on top rope Belaying a climber on top rope

Top rope with rope in place Installing a top rope at the belay anchor Primary belaying position

Pay attention

Overhangs: climb on the rope clipped to the quickdraws

Always hold the brake-side rope

4 ACCESSBOOK — n° 1 BELAYING IN A CLIMBING GYM 5

BASICS OF BELAYING BASICS OF BELAYING

Belaying a climber on top rope Belaying a climber on top rope

Technique: taking up slack

Technique 1 Technique 2

Alternative technique available at Petzl.com.

6 ACCESSBOOK — n° 1 BELAYING IN A CLIMBING GYM 7

BASICS OF BELAYING BASICS OF BELAYING

Belaying a climber on lead Belaying a climber on lead

Spotting the climber at the start of the route Primary belaying position

Pay attention

Always hold the brake-side rope

Spot until the first quickdraw is clipped Be alert and mobile for the first few clips

or

8 ACCESSBOOK — n° 1 BELAYING IN A CLIMBING GYM 9

BASICS OF BELAYING BASICS OF BELAYING

Belaying a climber on lead Belaying a climber on lead

Technique: giving slack

Technique: holding a fall

For a dynamic belay, do a small jump or take a step forward to reduce the impact force on the climber.
Technique: taking up slack

10 ACCESSBOOK — n° 1 BELAYING IN A CLIMBING GYM 11

BASICS OF BELAYING BASICS OF BELAYING

Lowering Lowering

Communication before lowering Technique: lowering

With GRIGRI type With REVERSO / VERSO type

belay device belay device

Be alert when nearing the ground

© Petzl / MDaviet

12 ACCESSBOOK — n° 1 BELAYING IN A CLIMBING GYM 13

LEAD CLIMBING LEAD CLIMBING

Clipping Clipping

Clipping at waist level The most common clipping techniques (other techniques exist)

or

Rope properly clipped to the quickdraw

14 ACCESSBOOK — n° 1 BELAYING IN A CLIMBING GYM 15

LEAD CLIMBING LEAD CLIMBING

Errors to avoid Errors to avoid

Rope behind leg Do not grab a quickdraw

when falling

Do not skip a quickdraw Do not Z-clip: take the rope

on the correct side of the
quickdraw

16 ACCESSBOOK — n° 1 BELAYING IN A CLIMBING GYM 17

To learn more...

Find more technical advice and videos

on climbing at www.petzl.com

© Petzl / Lafouche - Cover: © Petzl / MDaviet

The information contained in this brochure is non-exhaustive.

See the Instructions for Use for the products, and related
technical advice Training is essential.
You are responsible for your own actions, decisions and safety.
Climb at your own risk.

© Petzl / 08/2018