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DOI: 10.1111/jocd.12454
ORIGINAL CONTRIBUTION
1
Dermatology & Dermopharmacy Research
Team (DDRT), Tabriz University of Medical Summary
Sciences, Tabriz, Iran Background: Polyquaterniums (PQs) as important ingredients of hair products are
2
Faculty of Pharmacy, Tabriz University of
synthetic cationic polymers and are used in commercial hair volumizers and condi-
Medical Sciences, Tabriz, Iran
3
Student Research Committee, Tabriz tioners.
University of Medical Sciences, Tabriz, Iran Methods: Three different grades of polymers including PQ 87, 68, and 46 with vari-
4
Food and Drug Safety Research Center,
ous concentrations were used, and their hair deposition efficacy was measured at 5
Tabriz University of Medical Sciences,
Tabriz, Iran different pH values using hair diameters measurements by digital micrometer. Depo-
sition durability of polymer layer on the hair surface was tested by a defined wash-
Correspondence
Dr Farnaz Monajjemzadeh, Pharm-D, PhD of ing test. Optical microscopic images and polarized light images were also taken from
Pharmaceutics, Associate Professor of
treated and untreated samples for further investigation. Attenuated total reflectance
Pharmaceutical and cosmetic control, Faculty
of Pharmacy, Tabriz University of medical (ATR) spectral were recorded from hair samples to prove the polymer deposition
sciences, Tabriz, Iran.
and probable interaction with hair fibers.
Email: Monajjemzadehf@yahoo.com
Results: PQ-68 with the highest molecular weight (300 kDa) at pH = 9 exhibited
the best hair deposition efficacy. The results revealed that the deposition of poly-
mers is directly proportional to the pH values. The best results were seen at pH = 9,
and at the lowest pH (pH = 5), the efficiency of polymers was approximately equal
to zero. The best resistance against washing was shown by PQ-44 at pH = 6. ATR
successfully tracked the presence of the polymers on the hair fibers and also pro-
posed specific wave numbers for each polymeric agent, individually.
Conclusions: In general, two main parameter which can mainly influence the deposi-
tion efficacy of PQs are the type of polymer or its molecular weight and also the
positive charge density on the polymer molecules.
KEYWORDS
cationic polymer, deposition, FTIR spectroscopy, hair treatment, polymers and surfactants,
polyquaternium
significant in all polymers but in polymer PQ-68, a plateau was seen of hair care products should be optimized based on the volumizing
at 5% w/w concentration which shows that this concentration is the efficacy and tissue irritancy. Using pH values above 9 can irritate the
optimum concentration for this purpose. The effect of polymer skin and should be avoided and pH values lower than 7 will reduce
concentration on volumizing efficacy is shown at all pH values. The the deposition efficacy of the final product. The statistical difference
statistical difference was significantly based on ANOVA results (P- was significantly based on ANOVA results (P-value < .05).
value < .05). Deposition durability of polymer layer on the hair surface was
tested by a defined washing test.
The washing test described here is a self-defined procedure by
3.5 | Effect of the polymer solutions pH value on
the authors. According to Society of Hair Testing guidelines for drug
deposition efficiency of PQs
testing in hair, a precise definition of the hair washing procedure
Effect of various pH values of the polymeric solutions on hair vol- being able to remove surface contaminations should be
ume expanding efficacy of PQs is shown in Figures 7, 8 and 9. The introduced.19
efficacy of all polymers increased with increase in the pH value of Thus, in hair washing tests, it is important to define the proce-
the polymeric solutions regularly. This effect was seen in all polymer dure completely and keep all parameters constant during the study.
concentrations. pH is one of the important factors in formulation of Different washing medium volumes, washing agent, and stirring
hair care products. The pH value of the polymer in the formulation rate and also washing durations have been used by different
6 | SHOKRI ET AL.
The weight of the hair tresses after and before washing by the
defined procedure was used to calculate the accuracy as below:
Wcontaminated Wafterwashing
Accuracy ¼ 100:
Winitial
4 | CONCLUSION
PQs have very good features for formulation of hair care products
due to their high skin compatibility, low toxicity, low irritancy, and
low interaction with other formulation ingredients especially anionic
surfactants.24,25,26 Some important parameters should be taken into
F I G U R E 1 0 Volume enhancement efficacy of PQ-44 in different
consideration to achieve an ideal quality and efficacy of such prod-
pHs with different concentrations
ucts. Different grades of PQs have different MWs and charge densi-
and this was repeated for three different hair samples within a ties. Higher molecular weight PQs have higher volumizing power at
day. The test was again repeated the day after, and the within pH values above Thus in formulations with acidic pH values, PQs
day and intraday differences were reported based on Relative with higher charge densities are preferred. The best pH range in the
Standard Deviation (RSD) based on ICH guidelines.23 formulation of these products is assigned to be between 7 and 9.
8 | SHOKRI ET AL.
Concentration of polymers in the final preparation is also an impor- 13. Peace JH, Ahlberg P, Wagner M, Lim JM, Wirta D, Branch JD.
tant factor for the quality assurance of PQs. Higher concentrations Polyquaternium-1–preserved travoprost 0.003% or benzalkonium
chloride–preserved travoprost 0.004% for glaucoma and ocular
result in higher volume expanding power but each polymer may have
hypertension. Am J Ophthalmol 2015;160:266-274.
an optimum concentration in the final product preparation. 14. Alasino RV, Garcia LG, Gramajo AL, Pusterla JP, Beltramo DM, Luna
JD. Ocular biocompatibility of polyquaternium 10 gel: functional and
morphological results. Journal of Materials Science: Materials in Medi-
ORCID
cine. 2015;26:64.
Farnaz Monajjemzadeh http://orcid.org/0000-0001-9369-5136 15. Gao T. Evaluation of hair humidity resistance/moisturization from
hair elasticity. J Cosmet Sci. 2007;58:393.
16. Chan K, Kazarian S, Mavraki A, Williams D. Fourier transform infra-
red imaging of human hair with a high spatial resolution without the
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