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Roll-Up Cuff Design

Roll-up cuffs are developed all-in-one with the sleeve or as


separate cuffs stitched to the sleeve and turned up. To develop
this type of cuff, determine the finished length of sleeve
(between biceps level to hem) and add cuff width.
Example: Sleeve length below biceps = 4 inches; cuff 1 1/2
inches (for roll-up).
Use these measurements or personal measurements. Use this
process for pants with cuffs. All-In-One Cuff with Sleeve Figure I
• Trace sleeve to finished length desired. Label A-B.
• Draw three parallel lines spaced 1 1/2 Inches apart below
hem (A-B line). label Sections 1, 2, and 3.
Figure 2
• Fold so that Section 1 is up, Section 2 down, and Section 3
underneath.
• Draw underseams with ruler on both sides of fold as guides
and cut from paper while folded. Unfold.

Separated Cuff Figure 4 Follow the previous instructions for all


in one cuff, with exceptions:
• Omit third section.
• Cut along A-B line, separating cuff from sleeve.
• Add seams.
Lantern Sleeves
Design Analysis A lantern sleeve is a two-section sleeve that
flares out from the cap (upper section) and hemline to a
styleline within the sleeve. The sleeve can be developed at
varying lengths and fullness. The three designs show the
flexibility of the lantern sleeve silhouette. Design 3 is given as a
practice problem. Ad-just armhole: see page 314.

Long Lantern Sleeve—Design I Measurement Needed


• Around hand
Pattern Plot and Manipulation
Figure I • Trace dartless sleeve pattern and all markings.
• Label quarter-sections X.
• Mark one-half of the around-hand measurement, less 1(2
Inch from each side of grain at hemline.
• Draw lines from wrist marks to biceps.
• Draw styieline 6 inches up from hem (varies)
. • Divide sleeve into eight parts and number.
• Cut and discard unneeded sections (shaded area).

Figure 4 Upper Sleeve


• Cut & slash line to, not through, cap.
• Place on paper and spread desired amount, se-cure, and
trace.
• Measure down 1 inch from the bottom panel. • Blend curved
line to underseams.
• Notch center line of sleeve.
• Cut from paper.

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