Roll-up cuffs are developed all-in-one with the sleeve or as
separate cuffs stitched to the sleeve and turned up. To develop this type of cuff, determine the finished length of sleeve (between biceps level to hem) and add cuff width. Example: Sleeve length below biceps = 4 inches; cuff 1 1/2 inches (for roll-up). Use these measurements or personal measurements. Use this process for pants with cuffs. All-In-One Cuff with Sleeve Figure I • Trace sleeve to finished length desired. Label A-B. • Draw three parallel lines spaced 1 1/2 Inches apart below hem (A-B line). label Sections 1, 2, and 3. Figure 2 • Fold so that Section 1 is up, Section 2 down, and Section 3 underneath. • Draw underseams with ruler on both sides of fold as guides and cut from paper while folded. Unfold.
Separated Cuff Figure 4 Follow the previous instructions for all
in one cuff, with exceptions: • Omit third section. • Cut along A-B line, separating cuff from sleeve. • Add seams. Lantern Sleeves Design Analysis A lantern sleeve is a two-section sleeve that flares out from the cap (upper section) and hemline to a styleline within the sleeve. The sleeve can be developed at varying lengths and fullness. The three designs show the flexibility of the lantern sleeve silhouette. Design 3 is given as a practice problem. Ad-just armhole: see page 314.
Long Lantern Sleeve—Design I Measurement Needed
• Around hand Pattern Plot and Manipulation Figure I • Trace dartless sleeve pattern and all markings. • Label quarter-sections X. • Mark one-half of the around-hand measurement, less 1(2 Inch from each side of grain at hemline. • Draw lines from wrist marks to biceps. • Draw styieline 6 inches up from hem (varies) . • Divide sleeve into eight parts and number. • Cut and discard unneeded sections (shaded area).
Figure 4 Upper Sleeve
• Cut & slash line to, not through, cap. • Place on paper and spread desired amount, se-cure, and trace. • Measure down 1 inch from the bottom panel. • Blend curved line to underseams. • Notch center line of sleeve. • Cut from paper.