How to Calculate Fabric Yardage for Quilts

Easy Steps to Calculate Quilt Yardage

How to Figure Yardage for Quilts

Calculating how much fabric you need to make a quilt is easy once you
understand the basics

Choose a Quilt Size and Design First

You'll need to make some decisions before you can calculate how much fabric
is needed for a quilt:
Figure out how large the quilt will be, keeping standard mattress sizes in mind
Decide how much of the quilt top will be made up of quilt blocks, and how much
of its size will be taken up by borders and/or sashing
Make a rough sketch on paper or use computer software to draw the quilt
What quilt block size will you use? How many blocks will it take across and
down to fill the space within the quilt? For instance, for a quilt that measures
about 60 inches x 80 inches, six 10 inch blocks across and eight 10 inch blocks
down will fill the space, requiring 48 blocks.

Be sure to add fabric for borders if you plan to use them, and decide if borders
will be cut along the fabric's straight grain or crosswise grain.

Will blocks be straight set or placed on point? Multiply the block's finished size
by 1.41 to determine the width an on point block will occupy in the quilt.

Will you use plain setting triangles for on point quilts? You can piece partial
blocks to use as setting components, but if you don't, you'll need two types of
triangles to fill in the jagged edges. Triangles look the same but are cut
differently.

Decimal to Fraction Conversions

A conversion chart is handy for yardage calculations.
.0625 = 1/16
.125 = 1/8
.1875 = 3/16
.25 = 1/4
.3125 = 5/16
.333 = 1/3 yard
.375 = 3/8
.4375 = 7/16
.5 = 1/2
.5625 = 9/16
.625 = 5/8
.666 = 2/3
.6875 = 11/16
.75 = 3/4
.8125 = 13/16
.875 = 7/8

.9375 = 15/16

Analyze Quilt Blocks for Yardage Needs

how to calculate quilt yardage
Sample yardage calculations for Birds in the Air Quilt Block
Let's say you want to make 20 identical Birds in the Air quilt blocks like the one
shown in the upper right corner of the illustration. The blocks finish at 9 inches
square.

Look at the block's grid. It's a nine patch design, with three major grids across
and three down–nine units in all, even though the lower right block half is made
from just one triangle.

Keep in mind that the instructions below walk you through the layout of this
particular quilt block–your blocks will differ. Sketch it out as you read, or print
the image and follow along with the instructions.
Divide the finished size of the block, 9 inches, by the number of rows across or
down, three. The answer, 3 inches, is the finished size of each of the nine grids.
All nine grids in this block contain half-square triangles, and we must add 7/8
inch to the finished size of a half-square triangle to calculate its cut size, making
seam allowances.
Each block has three dark blue 3 7/8 inch half-square triangles: we're making
20 blocks, so multiply that by three per block, making 60 triangles. We can cut
two triangles by dividing a 3 7/8 inch square once diagonally as shown.
The 60 triangles divided by the two each square yields means 30 squares are
required.
Most quilting fabric has a usable width of about 40 inches, often a bit more.
Divide 40 inches by 3 7/8 inches, the size of your squares. The answer, 10.32,
is the number of 3 7/8 inch cuts you can make across the width of the fabric.
Slide that back to a whole number, 10 cuts.
Now divide 30 (the required number of squares) by 10 (the cuts you'll make per
strip), making strips required to cut the squares, assuming no waste.
Multiply three strips by 3 7/8 inch (the width of each strip) to make 11 5/8 inch,
the total length of fabric required to cut three strips.
A yard of fabric is 36 inches long, so divide the length of fabric required, 11 5/8
inches, by 36 inches. The answer is .32 yard (refer to the decimal conversions
on page 1 if necessary). Bump up the yardage to compensate for errors or
shrinkage during pre-wash–in this case, 1/2 yard.
Figure Yardage Requirements for Another Fabric
how to calculate quilt yardage
Sample yardage calculations for Birds in the Air Quilt Block.
Now let's figure the yardage requirement for the large green triangles. We'll go
through the steps a bit more quickly.

Each large triangle is three grids high and three grids wide, making for a 9-inch
square finished size. Add 7/8 inch to the finished size for seam allowances, for
a cut size of 9 7/8 inches.

20 blocks x 1 triangle per block = 20 triangles

20 triangles divided by 2 (the number that can be cut from a 9 7/8 inch square)
= 10 squares required
40 inch width of fabric divided by 9 7/8 inches = 4.05, or 4 squares per strip
10 squares required divided by 4 per strip = 2.5, or 2 strips plus about a half
strip, each 9 7/8 inches wide.
9 7/8 inches x the 3 required cuts (even though one need be a partial width) =
about 30 inches of fabric.
30 inches divided by 36 inches (yard) = .83 yard, bump up to 1 yard to allow for
shrinkage and provide a bit of excess for squaring up.
Follow the same procedure for each part of the block, adding together yardages
for like fabrics.

Quilt Border Yardages

Borders help you easily adjust the size of your quilt top. Vary the number of
borders you sew to the quilt, or adjust their widths to suit you. Once you've
determined widths and styles, it's easy to calculate border yardage. Keep in
mind that mitered borders require longer strips than butted borders.

Sashing Yardage
Calculate yardage for sashing and cornerstones as you would for any other unit
in the quilt. Make a rough sketch of the quilt layout to help you visualize how
many strips are required.

How to estimate your thread needs

We often are asked "How much thread does it take to quilt a quilt?". There's not
a one size fits all answer, as thread consumption depends on several variables,
namely the size of the quilt and how detailed the quilting will be. Everyone's
technique is different and the phrase "a lot of thread" can mean something
different to anyone. We've done our best to develop a series of averages based
on our personal experience. Please use these numbers as a reference point
and understand that they are averages according to our personal experience,
so your quilting may require more or less thread depending on the quilt, pattern,
and desired outcome.

For help choosing the right quilting thread for your quilt, please view our quilting
threads.

Of course it is possible to use much more or much less thread. The numbers in
the table below are for the top thread only. Double them if you will be using the
 same thread for the bobbin. The three sets of numbers following the size
represent Light Quilting/Medium Quilting/Heavy Quilting.

How much thread?

Quilt Size Light Quilting Medium Quilting Heavy Quilting

Lap/Crib Size 200 yds. 400 yds. 600 yds.

Twin Size 400 yds. 800 yds. 1,200 yds.

Queen Size 600 yds. 1,000 yds. 1,600 yds.

King Size 750 yds. 1,500 yds. 2,000 yds.

Sewing and Quilting Problems

Thread quality and application. Are you using a good quality thread? Are you
using this thread in the intended manner? Inexpensive serger thread found in
bargain bins at discount stores (think of the $1.99 cones of thread with a layer
of dust on them) is not intended for machine quilting. Fine, lightweight piecing
threads may not be suitable for high-speed long arm quilting. Linty and
inexpensive threads may not be suitable for your application. Decorative
heavier threads may be intended for couching, serger, and bobbin work; not for
the needle. While there are threads universal in nature, most high-quality
threads are created for specific applications. We recommend a fine, strong 50
wt. thread for piecing because it's thin enough to not add any bulk at the seams.
A 40 wt. thread, cotton or polyester, is the most common thread type used for
quilting (topstitching) because it is visible and shows decorative detail in the
stitch pattern. Our Home Machine Reference Guide is a great reference tool to
see the recommended applications for each of our thread lines.

Needle. If you experience your top thread shredding, it is often the result of
thread passing through a needle that is too small. It's like trying to lace up shoes
with a shoelace that is too thick for the shoe eyelet. It will shred and eventually
break. Some styles of needles have larger eyes than others. For home
machines, the Topstitch and Metallic needles have the largest eyes and really
do make a difference in helping reduce the amount of tension applied on the
top thread. Size #90/14 is recommended for medium to heavy threads and any
decorative thread. It seems that most stores sell metallic needles, but they are
almost always size #80/12. That is too small for metallic threads. Change to a
#90/14. Even if your needle is new and your thread is shredding, try another
new one.

Tension settings. You have permission to change the tension settings. They
exist specifically for you to make changes. Most machines are factory preset to
sew using a fine (50 wt.) polyester thread (I've actually read my machine
manuals!). Quilters and embroiderers often use medium wt. and heavier
threads which require loosening of the upper tension settings. Whether your
machine has an automatic or manual tension system, learning to adjust the
upper tension will prevent and resolve a lot of frustration. On a scale of one to
ten, the upper tension setting on most machines is factory preset to 5.0.
Automatic tension systems may adjust the settings down to 3 or 3.5. That may
not be enough. With metallic thread, we adjust the tension down to 1.0,
regardless of machine brand. The most commonly used tension settings for
other threads are between 2.5 and 4. Don't rely on the factory preset tension.
Bobbin tension settings are usually more reliable, but it is still OK to make
adjustments. Before doing so, make sure the bobbin case is clean and threaded
properly. To have a benchmark of current bobbin tension settings, mark a dot
with a permanent marker on the bobbin case to indicate the screw position.
When you loosen or tighten the bobbin tension, turn the tension screw in small
1/4-turn increments.

Thread delivery. Sensitive or decorative threads, such as metallic threads,

may need more care than others. Spools and cones are wound differently. Most
spools are wound with a straight or parallel wind whereas cones are wound in
a criss-cross pattern. On home machines, straight-wound spools perform better
with the spool positioned on the vertical pin spool holder so the thread unwinds
straight from the side. If you position the spool in the usual manner on the
horizontal pin, the thread unwinds over the end of the spool and puts a twist on
the thread as it unwinds. This twisting action may cause problems with a
sensitive thread. If your machine unwinds the thread over the end of the spool
and not from the side, it is strongly recommended that you use cones. Spools
are not intended to unwind at high speed over the top or end of the spool. Watch
our video on the Superior Thread Holder to learn more about thread delivery.

Speed. Machines are getting faster and faster. Reducing the sewing speed
often solves breakage problems.

Other factors. Some high-sheen threads don't do well with adhesive sprays.
Some fabrics have a denser weave and are more abrasive in nature, while other
fabrics have sparkling or UV coatings. On long arm machines, the tautness of
the fabric between rollers affects the results.
All these variables contribute to the end result. Fortunately, we have control
over most of them and with minor adjustments, can solve most sewing-related
problems on our own.

1. If the number of total machines is increased to get extra productivity

what would be the total outcome? Only boost up of machinery is not a
better solution unless we increase operators proportionally. To optimize
the output of the new machine need additional skilled workforce.
Suppose, if machine quantity increase from 80 to 100 then production
units will be 100 x 8 x 20 = 16000 units/day.
2. Productivity can be increased by prolonging the working hour.
Suppose, if operators working time increase from 8 to 10 hours then
what will be the effect. Productivity must be increased, and factory may
desire more units than earlier 80 x 10 x 20 = 16000 units/day.
3. Productivity can be improved by increasing operator’s quantity. But
machine and equipment’s need to be increased proportionally according
to operators otherwise manpower becomes idle due to lack of
equipment’s.
4. Productivity can be improved by some other ways like motivation,
training or skill improvement program. It has been observed that around
10% of productivity can be increased by giving higher training and
motivation. Suppose, if operators produce 20 pieces per hour before,
but after giving training, they will produce 22 pieces. So, factories
production unit will be 80 x 8 x 22 = 14080 units/day.
5. Productivity can be improved by implementing modern technology.
Some working step can be minimized or removed by setting up
computerized advanced equipment instead of human beings. Besides
this, some unique working method can be implemented for smooth
production process like Lean Sigma, GSD, Work study engineering etc.
Then, factory may desire more units than earlier.