Cocoa Alkalization
Michael J. Kostic
Chadler (USA) Inc.
C ocoa solids in their many forms
are used in a wide range of food
products. Whether it be chocolate
liquor or more correctly cocoa mass,
or cocoa powder, the cocoa compo-
nent is unique in that it is called on to
fulfill two functions. These are to
impart both flavor and color to the
end product. In order to expand the
effective ingredient range of what is a
pure natural ingredient, the process
of alkalization has been developed.
Cocoa in its natural form is
slightly acidic, with a nominal pH
range of 5 to 5.6. The alkalization
process neutralizes the normal
cocoa acidity and raises the pH into
the 7 to 8 range.
This neutralization process is car-
ried out by treating cocoa nibs, cocoa
mass or cocoa solids with a solution
of water and alkali, first heating and
then drying the cocoa back to the
proper working moisture.
In actual practice, the cocoa to be
alkalized is first heated in a closed
mixing vessel, warm alkali solution
is added to the cocoa, a reaction
time is allowed and then the excess
moisture is driven off by heating or
drying. The end product of the alka-
lizing process will be cocoa solids
with a higher pH and darker color
than in the natural state.
Presented at the Pennsylvania Manufacturing Confectioners’ Association 51st Annual Production Conference
128 June 1997/The Manufacturing Confectioner
The degree of change is con-
trolled by:
• the strength of the alkali solution,
• the alkali selected,
• the moisture level of reaction stage,
• the length of the reaction stage,
• the process temperature, and
• drying temperature and duration.
If the process conditions selected
are all at the low end of the scale,
the end product will have a pH at
the bottom of the commercial range
with a slightly darker than natural
color. If the process conditions
selected are at the high end of the
scale, the end product will have a
higher pH and a dark color.
The flavor obtained as the process
conditions change will range from a
mild chocolate flavor to a very
bland flavor to a bitter harsh cocoa
note. This flavor change is primarily
the result of the pH change, which
in turn is an expression of the neu-
tralization of the normal acidity of
the cocoa solids. The effectiveness
of the neutralization cannot be mea-
sured by a pH change alone how-
ever. Neutralization is related to the
moisture content of the reaction
stage and duration, rather than to
any other condition. There is a min-
imum reaction moisture level
required. If an overly concentrated
alkali solution is used, there is a
danger that there will be free alkali
left in the cocoa solids. The presence
of unreacted free alkali in cocoa
solids can be detected by a metallic
or chemical flavor note, and in the
worse case, liberation of CO during
later processing.
When the alkalizing process is
carried out on cocoa nibs or cocoa
Kostic has been in the cocoa pro-
cessing field for more than 27
years. After earning a degree in
mechanical engineering he began
his career with Intercontinental
Cocoa Products Ltd, which even-
tually became a part of Gill & Duf-
fus Products. While employed by
ICP he started its Canada division
and rose to the role of president.
Later Kostic became general man-
ager of Upali Singapore PTE, a
cocoa bean processor, before joining
Chadler (USA) Inc. as its president.

mass, the butter is also affected. The
pH of the butter pressed from alka-
lized cocoa will have the same pH as
the alkalized cocoa cake. The free
fatty acids of the butter will be
reduced and the butter will have a
slightly soapy or “dutchy” note.
Under extreme nib alkalizing condi-
tions, the butter will be darker and
redder than natural cocoa butter.
Cocoa butter from nib or cocoa
mass alkalization almost always
must be deodorized.
Under the FDA Code of Regula-
tions, the alkalis permitted for pro-
cessing cocoa are limited to bicar-
bonate, carbonate or hydroxide of
sodium, ammonium or potassium,
or carbonate or oxide of magne-
sium. The most commonly used
chemicals in cocoa processing are
potassium carbonate, ammonium
bicarbonate and sodium hydroxide.
The Code defines the permissible
usage levels of these alkalis by limit-
ing them to the neutralization value
of 3 parts anhydrous potassium car-
bonate to 100 parts of cocoa nibs.
Potassium carbonate is widely
used to alkalize cocoa nibs and
cocoa mass. It generates a red-
brown color and a chocolate flavor
in the cocoa solids and has a mini-
mal impact on the cocoa butter.
Typically, working moisture of 20 to
30 percent is used to produce a
cocoa powder or chocolate liquor
with a pH of 7. Red Dutch cocoa
powder requires a 40 to 50 percent
working moisture, as well as a
stronger solution strength.
By varying the strength of the
solution and the moisture level of
the reaction stage, a wide range of
pH and color shades are developed.
Ammonium bicarbonate is used
when a darker color is required, but
without the high pH that usually
accompanies a dark color. Pure
ammonium bicarbonate gives a gray
color in the final product, and since
the reaction stage liberates pure
ammonia gas, it is a difficult chemi-
cal to work with. Therefore it is usu-
ally used in blends with other alka-
lizing chemicals, and usually in a
cold water solution.
Sodium hydroxide is used almost
exclusively in the alkalization of cocoa
Cocoa Alkalization
presscake. Since it has the strongest
neutralization value of the permitted
alkali, it can be used at a lower level to
obtain the same alkali solution
strength, and is a very economical
ingredient. Sodium hydroxide can also
be used to produce strong red tones in
presscake alkalization when com-
bined with an oxidation stage.
Whenever an alkalized cocoa
solid is used, the proper label
expression is “cocoa processed with
alkali.” For those considering a
“There are three
switch from natural to alkalized
cocoa, a label change will be
basic approaches
needed. The change to alkalized
coca might also eliminate the inclu-
to alkalizing
sion of food colors and flavors on
the label as well.
cocoa. These are
TECHNIQUES nib alkalization,
All of these alkalis and techniques
can be used on any cocoa nib or
cocoa mass
solid, but the results will vary
greatly from bean origin to bean
alkalization and
origin. For example, if a strong red-
colored cocoa powder is needed,
cocoa cake
Bahia cocoa beans or Cameroon
cocoa are needed. Ivory Coast
alkalization.”
beans will yield a very mellow
chocolate-flavored cocoa, but with
brown to reddish brown color tones.
Malaysian cocoa beans produce a
nice red, but Indonesian beans, like
Ecuadorian, only give shades of
gray and brown. Central American
beans produce light red tones, with-
out the Bahia taste. Non-fermented
Mexican cocoa beans produce a nat-
ural powder that is light in color, but
in the alkalized state, has dark
red/brown tones.
There are three basic approaches
to alkalizing cocoa. These are nib
alkalization, cocoa mass alkaliza-
tion and cocoa cake alkalization.
Nib Alkalization
Nib alkalization is the industry pref-
erence for the production of both
alkalized cocoa powders and cocoa
mass. The small size of the nib per-
mits a uniform solution penetration
and the drying stage can be com-
bined with nib roasting. By adding
an aeration stage, strong red colors
can be created from specific beans.
Part of the moisture reduction can
be done under vacuum to preserve
The Manufacturing Confectioner/June 1997 129
Cocoa Alkalization
“In producing
chocolate coatings
where conche
time is limited,
alkalized cocoa
mass can be used
to produce a
milder flavor….”
130 June 1997/The Manufacturing Confectioner
color development. In general, nib
alkalization provides the widest
processing range.
Cocoa Mass Alkalization
The alkalization of cocoa mass has a
very limited range of processing
conditions. Since the reaction of
adding water to cocoa mass is almost
identical to the reaction of adding
water to chocolate, the alkali solu-
tion level is very limited. And since
the mass is very dense (9lbs/gal) and
50 percent or more butterfat, com-
plete neutralization is difficult. Mass
alkalization is usually done in a
batch process and can be combined
with the liquor sterilization process.
There are continuous mass alkaliza-
tion systems available that can pro-
duce dark colors, but these are not in
wide use as there is almost no flavor
development in the process.
Cocoa Cake Alkalization
Presscake alkalization can be done
either in a batch mode or in a contin-
uous process. A continuous process
usually requires that the presscake be
first milled into cocoa powder. The
alkalization can be done in a pellet
mill or food extruder followed by a
continuous hot air dryer. Cocoa pow-
der is also alkalized by spray-drying a
slurry of natural cocoa powder and
alkali solution.
Alkalized cocoa products give the
formulator a wide range of options.
Cocoa in its natural form has a pH
of 5 to 5.6, depending on bean ori-
gin. When used in the natural form
the flavor has a definite bitter note,
while products made from alkalized
cocoa solids have a milder, “choco-
late” flavor note. While the flavor
note of natural cocoa can be modi-
fied by changing roasting conditions
and conche time in chocolate pro-
duction, there are definite limits. By
using alkalized cocoa mass or alka-
lized cocoa powders, more varia-
tions and decreased production
time are possible.
If a formulator is using natural
cocoa and wants a darker, richer color
in his product, he is limited. Increas-
ing the percentage of cocoa will make
the product darker, but the flavor will
be impaired as well as the working
viscosity. And, in the case of cocoa
mass used in chocolate, the whole
product balance will be affected.
By using an alkalized cocoa solid,
the formulator can deepen the color
of the end product without changing
the cocoa component level and obtain
a milder flavor. In the production of
compound coatings a blend of natural
and alkalized cocoa powders can be
employed to produce a dark coating
with a bitter-sweet flavor. One very
popular approach is to blend a small
percentage of a good black cocoa
powder with natural cocoa powder.
This has a double impact in that the
color becomes much darker, without
viscosity change, and a stronger bitter
cocoa note is added that overcomes
the overly sweet taste of some com-
pound coatings.
SUMMARY
In producing chocolate coatings
where conche time is limited, alka-
lized cocoa mass can be used to pro-
duce a milder flavor than would be
obtainable with natural cocoa mass.
Along with a milder flavor would
come a richer color.
Excellent sugar-coated panned
compound products can be produced
by using alkalized cocoa powder.
When compared to using natural
cocoa powder, the center will have a
darker color and a “chocolate” flavor.
Where did the process of cocoa
alkalizing originate? The generic
term for alkalized cocoa is Dutched
or Dutch Process. Cocoa folk lore
has it that the process was developed
in Holland. I have another theory.
The cocoa bean is a native Amer-
ican plant. Its origins are in Mexico
and Central America. The Indians
of Mexico were the first to use cocoa
as a beverage. They also created a
process of treating corn to produce
a digestible food, which let them use
corn as a staple in their diet.
These Indians cooked corn in a
mixture of water and lime or potash.
After drying, the kernels were ground
into meal and then made up into masa
or corn dough for tortillas or tamales.
It is not hard to imagine that the
Indians applied this same technique
to processing cocoa beans into the
“fruit of the gods.” n