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12 pages of your car problems solved by our experts
Cordless PRODUCT
TEST
compact SIX models
tested in the
IMPACT workshop
DRIVERS
& RATCHETS
Repairing
SILLS
DIY welding & painting
SAVING YOU MONEY SINCE 1958
Fitting a
CLUTCH KIT Is your car ready for
& SLAVE
CYLINDER
WINTER?
Simple checks to
enhance reliability
and efficiency
MINI R50 1.6 The benefits of

fitting winter tyres
Aircon Testing & servicing
condenser electrical systems
renewal
WIN
Improve lighting
and visibility
WIN
FLOODLIGHT worth
DOCKING STATION £119
Battery
starter PARTS PRICES BUYING GUIDE DIAGNOSTICS
chargers
3 prizes worth over SEE Nissan
£311
PAGE
26
Exige S2 Micra Ka
N V MB 1 £4.40 Toyota-engined 2010-on K13 models 1.25-litre examined
VOLKSWAGEN
RECOMMENDS
CASTROL EDGE
CASTROL EDGE WITH FLUID TITANIUM.
STRONGER UNDER PRESSURE.
www.castrol.co.uk
Editorial Martyn Knowles, Editor
Email: martyn.knowles@bauermedia.co.uk
Follow us on Facebook @ Car Mechanics
Preparing for winter mode

 The weather has been unseasonably The passenger cabin footwell need to get round to tackling before the
warm during the first weeks of gets flooded each time we have a temperature starts to plummet.
October, making it a good time to get substantial downpour. It needs to be My Audi A8 has been at the local VAG
out and perform a few checks on your parked in my garage if rain is looming – specialists this week for an injector
pride and joy, plus other cars in your which is every day this week! seal renewal. The reason I mention
fleet. Our lead feature, starting on page Apparently, a tube runs from the this now is that I have been thinking of
6, will hopefully guide you through the sunroof to a T-piece connector located driving the plush saloon to Portugal this
simple steps that you should be taking low down on the A-pillar, where it is month – a 3000-mile round trip – but
before the winter really sets in. most likely blocked with crud. I just yet to book anything. It won’t be long
For me, I should find time to attend need to extract the glovebox and side before the V8 oil-burner is banned from
to a rain water leak on the CM project trim to get to it. It’s one of those jobs most French towns due to the emission
Rover 75, which is still in my possession. that I’ve been putting off but really target limits being introduced soon.
Solving common pro IN Bec
blems on EX ST ome
MODERN PE AN an
Ford Focus turns 21 Modern ENGINES

RT T
CHOOSE THE
CORRECT OIL
FOR YOUR
ENGINE
Engines
Professional advice
for DIY mechanics
 Ford’s replacement for the long- engines can rack up 100,000 miles  OIL & LUBRICATION
 CHANGING TIMING
 EXPLORING VARIABL
RECOMMENDATIONS
BELTS & CHAINS
 OVERHAULING CRANKS
 REBUILDING STARTE
HAFTS
R MOTORS
BROUGHT TO YOU BY
E VALVE TIMING
running Escort was launched 21 without even breaking sweat.

 LOOKING AFTER
 FRONT END AUXILIA FUEL INJECTORS
book
RY DRIVE SYSTEMS
 REMOVING STUCK
 RECONDITIONING INJECTORS
ALTERNATORS
 DECOKING CLOGGE
D ENGINES
years ago this month. About six months ago, I started LEARN
NEW
SKILLS
What a vast difference the Focus looking for a sweet-looking S-plate  A few readers
was over the outgoing (although still Focus at the auctions, to go with this have enquired
being sold to 2001) Escort. The Focus write-up. Alas, I could only find one on about buying
styling, handling and general screwed- this registration – it was a bit rough – copies of our
togetherness was praise at the time. although plenty of T-plate cars went 100-page book RENEWING TIMING
BELTS & CHAINS
It was a game-changer in terms of through the hall during this period. on Modern
steering and suspension performance I guess you have to remember that, Engines, which ALTERNATOR REPAIR
S STARTER MOTOR REFUR
B FUEL INJECTION FIXES
for a cheap, medium-sized car. at the time of the MkIs launch, it was was on sale in £6.99
For many, the first-generation cars the changeover of registrations to a WHSmith in July and August. If
were the best. Back in 1999, we had twice-yearly swap. This meant that, you missed it in the shops, you can
a fleet of Focuses on loan from Ford from March 1, 1999, the registration still buy a copy for £6.99 by calling
for a week at a time. We’d dashed changed to T-reg in England, Scotland Leise Enright at the Bauer offices
around in the 1.4-, 1.6- and 1.8-litre and Wales. As a result, S-plate Focuses on 01733 468485 or emailing
versions, before the 2.0-litre arrived were only available from October leise.enright@bauermedia.co.uk
in saloon form. We never did get to 1998 to the end of February 1999.
drive the diesel version of the MkI. Ford shifted shedloads of Focus
Twenty-one years on, there are still MkIs (1998-2004) around the world.
plenty of Focus MkI’s for sale in the Do any CM readers still run one Departing Dave
classifieds, many of them with one today? Let us know what it’s like and  Dave Taylor, my right-hand
caring owner from new. All of the the mileage it has covered. man in production, is leaving
Car Mechanics this month.
An original Ford press photo from 1998. Checking this car online, Dave sorted our poor grammar
I found it hasn’t visited a MOT test centre since 2014. It is, though,
and punctuation into readable
on SORN at present, indicating it may simply be resting for a spell.
English every month, as well as
being responsible for writing CM
Insider for the past nine years.
We will miss him and wish him
well for the future. We have yet to
find his replacement.
Subscribe to CM
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www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics November 2019 Car Mechanics 3

SUBSCRIBE
Contents
for just
£2.40
a month
SEE
FEATURES We go back to basics and show PAGE

you various potential problems 96
when changing air filters.
6 DIY winter preparation 76 Diagnostics Doctor
Everything you need to know
about keeping your car running 78 Back To Basics:
through the cold season.
Air filter change
36 Product Test: Cordless 81 Electronic Diagnostics:
Compact Impact Ford Ka II
Drivers and Ratchets
Six tools are put to the test by 78 86 Auto Electrics
professional mechanics.
Part ten: Top tips for testing
56 Reinventing the wheel 54 Survival Guide: vehicle electrics systems.
A special preview of Michelin’s Lotus Exiga S2
innovative new Unique Puncture-
proof Tyre System.
Sourcing quality spares.
REGULARS
WORKSHOP 18 CM Insider
PROJECTS
22 Tales from the Workshop 46 Dealer’s Diary
30 Honda Civic 1.8 i-VTEC Unusual problems and fixes.
Part two: We sort the broken 48 Your Letters
glovebox and fix the ailing air- 40 Clutch Clinic:
conditioning system. MINI R50 1.6 88 Our Cars
Ian Cushway’s VW Transporter T5
BUYING 58 Rear sill repairs and Rob Marshalls’ fleet overhaul.
We repair, weld and paint the sill
50 Used Car Focus on our Chrysler PT Cruiser. 92 Good Garage Guide
Nissan Micra K13
Advice on buying the best. 66 Help! 98 In My Humble Opinion
CONTACT US MARKETING – Phone 01733 468000 COMPLAINTS: H Bauer Publishing is a member of the
Marketing Manager Rachael Beesley Independent Press Standards Organisation (www.
ipso.co.uk) and endeavours to respond to and resolve
Digital Marketing Executive Lewis Plumb your concerns quickly. Our Editorial Complaints Policy
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complaints and IPSO’s contact details) can be found
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Complaints Policy is complaints@bauermedia.co.uk
Car Mechanics, Bauer Media, Media House, Newstrade Marketing Manager Joe Deboo
Lynchwood, Peterborough PE2 6EA. PRODUCTION – Phone 01733 468341 We are sorry, but apart from material sent to Help! or
Diagnostics Doctor, not all correspondence can be replied
Email: carmechanics@bauermedia.co.uk Print Production Manager Richard Woolley to personally, though everything is read carefully. Emails
Car Mechanics is published 12 times a year, on the Advertising Production Zoe Bellamy will be treated in the same way as ordinary mail – the
3rd Thursday of each month, by H Bauer Publishing. editor is not normally available to provide instant replies.
Printed by Wyndeham Group Distributed by Frontline
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further consent. The submission of material (manuscripts or images etc) to Bauer Media whether unsolicited or requested,
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4 Car Mechanics November 2019 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

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to Friday and
8am to 1pm Saturday
INS TA N T E X P E R T
DIY WINTER
PREPARATIONS
Rob Marshall
looks at how winter
motoring presents
unique challenges and
describes how simple
checks can enhance
reliability, increase
efficiency, plus save
you both money and
inconvenience.
D
espite modern vehicles being
more reliable than ever, they
are not immune to leaving you
stranded in the cold. Aside from
the practical difficulties of an immobile winter can present. While a thorough intended for any DIYer, regardless of
car, the extra financial strain tends not to service should address most issues, ability, to follow logically with minimal
be appreciated during the festive period, we have assumed that your vehicle’s specialist tools. Some advice prioritises
even if you have breakdown cover. recommended annual maintenance prolonging the car’s life and some
You do not have to be a master schedule was carried out earlier in the recommendations might seem to be
technician to reduce the risk of a year. We have excluded most routine overkill, especially if you are running
breakdown. A series of DIY preventative service checks that are not weather- an older car with the intention to scrap,
checks, most of which can be performed dependent, such as inspecting the brake or replace, it in the spring. Many of our
on a domestic driveway, will help get pads/discs and suspension dampers. tips tips are also essential for safety and
you and your car through the worst that The following checklist, therefore, is reliability reasons.
VISIBILITY A1  Ultraviolet (UV) rays

cause certain plastic
esters and particulates to
be released from the interior
trim, which can ‘fog’ the
internal glazing and increase
the dazzle risk, especially
during summer. Clean the
inside windows thoroughly.
 Operate the
A2 windscreen washers
to ensure that the wipers
are working correctly.
Check the glass for missed
areas, judder, streaks and
smears. Most wiper blade
manufacturers recommend
replacing them annually.
6 Car Mechanics  November 2019 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

PREPARING YOUR CAR FOR WINTER
 Wipers with
A4 torn rubber
blades and rusty/seized
pivots should be
replaced. Otherwise,
clean the rubber blade
edge with a water-
dampened cloth, or
sponge, to remove any
summer bugs and residue.
Move the windscreen wipers' position to make it easier to carry The wiper blade must be fixed securely to its frame, with no
A3 out visual checks. Many modern cars have a 'service position' A5 wobbling, or perpendicular movement, being noticeable. This
facility, whereby pressing the wiper stalk down will raise the wipers to could cause the blades to fall apart during use. Should you find
a 'service position'. Check your handbook for details. excessive movement, renew the wiper assembly.
If your wipers are nearly-new, You might consider applying a Pictured is the ‘traditional’ metal/
A6 clean the rubber blade with a cloth A7 rain-repelling windscreen product, A8 plastic frame wiper, fitted to a
moistened with soapy water, or white vinegar. especially if you travel at high speeds common hook-type wiper arm. It features
Clean the windscreen with warm water, or regularly. The wind disperses the rain between four and eight pressure points
glass cleaning fluid. Note that chips/cracks droplets speedily, but temporarily, by filling to distribute the force from the wiper arm
in the glass can damage the wiper blade. in tiny imperfections on the glass surface. spring to the rubber blade.
With their plastic cover/spoilers, ‘hybrid’ wiper blades

The ‘flat’ wiper features a tensioned metal strip that creates
A10 combine the looks and aerodynamic advantages of ‘flat’
A9 a more even pressure across the entire rubber blade and the wipers with the performance of ‘traditional’ types. They tend to
moulded rubber profile matches the windscreen’s curves. Being more accommodate hook-type wiper arm fittings and are more common on
aerodynamic, this design also reduces wind noise. Japanese vehicles. (Photo courtesy of Trico)
When replacing wipers, buy them in paired sets and Frozen screenwash damages hoses, motors and jets. Driving
A11 ensure that you are fitting parts with measurements that A12 with completely frozen screenwash is also illegal. Check the
are appropriate for your car. With ‘traditional’ and ‘hybrid’ wipers antifreezing claims and dilution instructions on any product that you
especially, do not apply excessive force when replacing them. add – some of them are hardly effective.

PREPARING YOUR CAR FOR WINTER ROB’S TOP TIP
You can upgrade older
cars to use flat wipers,
VISIBILITY CONTINUED
as long as the wiper arm
fittings are compatible.
 Don’t forget to check
A13 that the headlamp wash,
or wipe, operates as intended
– especially on cars with LED/
Xenon headlamps, because they
must work where they are fitted.
Check the rear wash/wipe is in
order, too. Remove any LED/HID
conversion kits and bulbs.
 UV light and low-

A14 quality screenwash can
cloud plastic headlight covers
and restrict light output; this
can lead to an MOT failure.
Fortunately, there is a number of
DIY products available to restore
the cover to as-new condition.
Check that all lamps are working, Check any accessible electrical
A15 A16 An air-conditioning system that is
including fog-lights. Some cars make
it very difficult to replace filament bulbs,
connections for corrosion and
damage due to overheating, as pictured.
A17 used throughout the year is less
so consider buying long-life items. Do not Provided that it is easy to do so, inspect likely to fail. During the winter, when used in
attempt to upgrade external halogen lamps bulbs for blackening of their glass envelopes, conjunction with the heater, the conditioned
by fitting LED bulbs – replace the whole lamp. which indicates that failure is imminent. air aids faster window demisting.
WINTER OPERATING TIPS

Instead of repeating winter driving advice that is
available readily elsewhere, the following tips are
based upon technical and legal considerations.
 Keep your 12-volt battery charged fully wherever
possible and switch off power-hungry accessories, such
as heated rear windscreens, when not required.
 Do not leave the engine running with the car unattended
while you de-ice the windows; not only is it illegal but it
also invalidates insurance cover.
 Pouring boiling water over a frozen windscreen might
promote cracking. Lukewarm water is preferable, but
be wary of it freezing again quickly.
 If the car will not start, operate the starter for around  Never course through floods, because water can
10 seconds, then do not try again for at least a minute, penetrate mechanical and electrical parts, such as the
to give the battery time to recover. steering rack, electric power assistance motor, balljoints
 Do not rev the engine hard immediately following a cold and wheel bearings, resulting in premature wear that
start; the oil is thicker in cold weather which can take continues long after the weather has improved.
extra time to circulate and protect the moving parts.  Manual transmissions might be reluctant to select lower
 Drive off as soon as possible after the engine idle speed ratios at speed when cold, due to the natural thickening
has steadied. Neither rev the engine hard, nor subject of the gear oil.
it to full-load, until it has warmed thoroughly. Ideally,  Always ensure that your windows and numberplates Continued
consult your oil temperature gauge, if fitted. are clean and clear of obstructions. on page
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PREPARING YOUR CAR FOR WINTER ROB’S
TOP TIP
A healthy battery’s
cold-start capacity
VISIBILITY CONTINUED A19  Carbon-activated cabin filters

(pictured bottom) help to absorb
drops by at least
30% at 0°C.
exhaust fumes and odours and are worth
the extra outlay, especially if you do a
lot of urban driving. Like standard types,
they can still remove dust and pollen but
also certain pollutants and odours.
Contemplate replacing the cabin

A18  Warm summer temperatures can
filter, which may hold pollen
remnants that risk irritating passengers’
A20 promote mould in the air-conditioning
sinuses during winter. When replacing it, condenser and air vent ducts. Using an aircon
consider the direction of airflow and be aware ‘bomb’ aerosol product helps to kill the bacteria
that you can buy several specifications. and its spores. Follow the instructions carefully.
UNDERBODY CHECKS B2  As frozen coolant can cause severe engine

damage, check its antifreezing strength with a
hydrometer. Should it need topping up, or replacing, use
the correct type as dictated in the handbook; colour is
not indicative of specification.
Confirm that brake and power Coolant also needs periodic replacement
B1 steering fluids are topped-up to their B3 because its anti-corrosion properties diminish
‘maximum’ marks and be aware that brake with time. Increased corrosion risks your engine
fluid needs flushing every other year due overheating. Using a multimeter, and with the engine
to its water absorption properties. A DIY cold, place the ‘negative’ wire on the battery negative
pressure-bleeder is pictured. terminal and…
…the ‘positive’ wire into the coolant. While older engines can suffer minor
B4 B5 As engine oil deteriorates markedly at
Should more than 0.6 volts (600
millivolts) be noted, the coolant requires
oil seepage with no ill effect, coolant
leaks are more serious and can be identified
B6 high temperatures, consider changing
replacing. The reading here is 0.08 volts either by obvious damp patches or by the oil and filter before winter, especially if
(85.8 millivolts), meaning the anti-corrosion crystals left by the antifreeze. Fix any leaks you carried out a number of sustained high-
properties are in good health. as soon as they are spotted. speed runs during the summer period.

Check the oil level. Should your car

B7 Inspect auxiliary belts for condition;
have a diesel particulate filter (DPF),
B8 Air filters are easy to access on most
the sump may need some spare capacity to
accommodate diesel contamination that
not all wear is as obvious as that in our
photo. Should a belt have exceeded 80,000
B9 models. Even if the filter is relatively
results from more regular regenerations, so miles, replace it. You may also have to replace clean, it is worth removing it and clearing
it should NOT be up to the ‘Max’ mark. Check other parts in the drive system, including the filter housing of any summer-related
your handbook for further information. alternator clutch and tensioner rollers. detritus, such as dead flies, straw and leaves.
Water contamination within the fuel Alternatively, you can renew the Try to remove as much debris as
B10 injection system originates from B11 filter altogether. Note that road B12 possible from the air-conditioning
condensation in the fuel tank, or from the diesel contains up to 7% bio-diesel, which condenser/engine radiator, viewable behind
bio-fuel element within the fuel absorbing encourages microorganism deposits that the front grille. Organic material rots and
moisture. On most diesels, you can drain the the filter should trap. Annual filter holds moisture against the aluminium fins,
water from the fuel filter housing. replacement is a good idea. promoting corrosion and leaks.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
 While electrical demand is
C1 relatively low during summer,
a hot engine bay accelerates the
natural process of the sulphuric
acid attacking the metal plates,
which reduces battery capacity.
(Photo courtesy of GS Yuasa)
 The situation is made
C2 worse if trim is missing that
is designed to isolate the battery
from high temperatures. The damage
is highlighted when extra power is
required, such as the initial start on
the first cold winter morning.
While appropriate condition and While a voltage test checks the battery
C4 C5
C3 Ifcheck
replaceable bungs are fitted,
that the acid level sits above
correct tension of the drivebelt is
crucial, some DIY battery chargers can test
charge, a discharge test assesses its
remaining capacity. Instead of a potentially
the lead plates. Top-up the battery with non-smart alternator outputs to give you an dangerous drop-test, certain high-tech
distilled water only and charge the battery early indication of whether, or not, a new one battery chargers perform this test for you,
afterwards with a smart charger. is required before winter. by measuring internal battery resistance.

A good garage should be
able to check the battery
and alternator outputs,
ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS CONTINUED should you lack the

necessary equipment.
Check that the battery terminals are

C6 uncorroded and in good condition.
Green, fluffy deposits can be cleaned
away by pouring very hot water onto the As modern, sealed batteries cannot be topped up, they deteriorate rapidly if they are
appropriate terminal. There is no need to use C7 overheated or overcharged. Plus, as periodic winter battery charging is a good idea,
petroleum jelly on modern battery posts. ditch the trickle charger and invest in a smart charger.
Check that all electrical equipment A common cause of battery failure is If you are replacing the battery, be
C8 works, especially functions that are C9 slow discharge. A direct current (DC) C10 sensitive of the original technology.
not used often during the summer, such as clamp meter is a useful tool that allows you Enhanced flooded (EFB) or advanced glass
interior lights. We also have come across to measure how much current the car is mat (AGM) types of batteries must never be
cases of a defective heated seat element demanding after the body control computer substituted with lesser specifications and/
preventing successful DPF regeneration. has deactivated. or cheaper alternatives.
IGNITION SYSTEMS
According to Bosch Automotive, While vibration and old age can

D1 D2 This spark plug tube has filled with
demand for petrol ignition
components increases during cold
damage ignition coils, the main issue
is high resistance that puts them under
D3 oil due to a cam gasket leak. This can
conditions. Incorrect, worn or incorrectly- additional strain. If accessible, remove increase the electrical resistance, resulting
gapped spark plugs make starting harder the coil and check for any small lines that in misfires. Water contamination in the
and place stress on the ignition coil. denote current leaking to earth. ignition system also has the same result.
 On diesels, ensure that

D4 all of the glow plugs work
correctly. While you can test them
via the EOBD socket, alternatively
use a DC clamp meter (see Step C9)
to measure the current consumption
of each plug, which should be very
similar. (Photo courtesy of NGK)
 Ensure that all engine

D5 covers, including undertrays,
are intact to reduce the engine bay
components being splashed with Continued
on page
water on the move, or being affected
by condensation when parked. 14

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PREPARING YOUR CAR FOR WINTER ROB’S
TOP TIP
Typical tyre pressure
TYRES E1  While your tyre

treads should never
drops by one PSI for
every 10°C reduction.
drop below 1.6mm, consider
that summer tyre grip
decreases considerably once
the tread depth drops below
2.0mm. Replacing tyres
before winter is a wise idea.
 As you may have

E2 adjusted your tyre
pressures for summer use,
it is almost certain that you
will need to alter them as the
weather turns colder, because
tyre pressure reduces with
temperature as well as time.
 Check both outside

E3 and inside surfaces
carefully for sidewall
perishing, which increases
considerably during summer
months thanks to the
increased UV light. Legally, no
cord should be visible when
any cracks are opened out.
 You may decide to

E4 invest in cold weather
or winter tyres, identifiable
by the three-peak mountain
snowflake. Their enhanced
grip benefits become evident
when the temperature has
dropped below a 7°C notional.
WINTER/COLD WEATHER TYRES

 British motorists are six times more likely to be involved in an
accident during the winter months, so taking extra steps to improve
your car’s reactions will help to reduce the risk. As the grip on summer
tyres reduces, due to the rubber compound stiffening as temperatures
drop, cold weather tyres offer extra handling advantages due to their
higher percentage of flexible, natural rubber. Not only will you stop
sooner in reduced temperatures, but you are also less likely to lose
control in an evasive cornering manoeuvre. Should you live in an
area where air temperatures drop below 7°C regularly during winter
(noting that the road surface is likely to be colder) cold weather tyres
are worth considering, especially if you perform early morning/late
evening commutes. Additionally, cold weather tyres have a different
tread pattern, which clears snow and ice build-up and increases
traction on wet, icy, slushy and snowy roads.
Deciding whether, or not, to invest in a set of cold weather tyres
(they should never be mixed with summer types) is a matter of
balancing your budget and risk. You may choose to buy a set of matching spare steel wheel rims from a breaker's yard,
although you should ensure that the donor vehicle has not been crash damaged. If you do not have room to store your
unused tyres at home, some tyre-fitting chains offer affordable ‘tyre hotel’ services. Despite the initial outlay, the overall
long-term cost is not significant, because only one set of tyres will be in use at any one time. Cold weather tyres are
mandatory in certain European countries during the winter season, so be aware of this if you decide to travel to the
continent before spring. In extreme conditions, take note that snow chains can be used only if they do not damage the
road surface. Studded tyres are legal in some European countries, but are prohibited on UK roads.
Should you be undecided about cold weather/winter tyres, Continental Tyres is offering a free summer vs winter tyre
driving experience between 11am to 1pm from Saturday, October 26 to Sunday, November 3 at Mercedes-Benz World in
Weybridge. Pre-booking is unnecessary – just turn up. If you decide that cold weather tyres are not for you, consider that
all-season tyres are offered by a variety of manufacturers. These combine both summer and winter tyre attributes that
are more appropriate for the UK’s ordinarily milder climate. Michelin’s CrossClimate, Nokian’s Weatherproof, Falken’s
Euroall Season and Continental’s AllSeasonContact, compromise extreme summer and winter performances that might
be more appropriate for your needs, especially if you live in the south east of the UK.

 You may wish
E5 to invest in a set
of snow socks, which
can get you moving
after a sudden and
unexpected snowstorm.
These can be fitted over
your existing tyres in
an emergency. (Image
courtesy of Autosock).
 Check that
E6 your spare tyre
is accessible, road legal,
clean and inflated. Your
lifting jack must be complete and unseized. Wheel cover and nut-removing tools also
need to be present. Add some gloves to your kit.
As our roads tend to deteriorate Ensure that any locking wheel

E8 E9
E7 Emergency puncture sealant aerosols
can ruin expensive tyre pressure
further during winter, it is wise to
have your suspension geometry checked
bolt keys are present and in good
condition. The bolt pictured on the left has
monitoring valves (TPMS) on application, by before and after the season, to avoid suffered from snapped pins and is useless;
sealing the pressure hole (arrowed). TPMS- wearing your tyres prematurely and this is one reason why an impact wrench
safe sealants have been launched recently. compromising the vehicle’s handling. should not be used on them.
INTERIOR
Vacuum the interior of your car to Check the interior for leaks, caused Ensure that the seats move smoothly
F1 clear summer detritus, including F2 by perished rubber seals, blocked F3 and latch securely; some types
sand. Be aware that moisture and dirt will drain holes, or a corroded heater matrix. require lubrication, so check your workshop
increase wear-and-tear on the carpets, so Should any leaks be found, peel back the manual. Vacuum any cloth seats to remove
periodic vacuuming will help over winter, carpets and check for corrosion and treat it dried surface dirt. Consider using a wet
as will fitting rubber mats. accordingly (see Steps G8-G12). carpet cleaner on the upholstery.
 Brush, or vacuum,
F4 any fine grit from
creases in leather seats. You
can buy dedicated cleaners
that lift dirt from the surface.
You cannot ‘feed’ modern
leather, but there are creams
that help to protect the surface
from moisture and abrasion.
 Treat seals with
F5 a dusting of talcum
powder to prevent water from
freezing the doors shut. This
also reduces the risk of the
rubbers being torn, should
the door be forced open to
gain access.

Don’t forget your home.
Apply road salt, or grit,
BODYWORK
on to the driveway, if
 Before you can
G1 assess and protect
appropriate.
the paint, wash the car. Use a

proprietary car shampoo and
the two-bucket method (one
for cleaning, the other for
rinsing). Work from the top of
the car down, taking care not
to leave micro-scratches.
 If you intend to detail

G2 the car, there are further
cleaning processes, such as
using a clay bar and/or a glaze.
Otherwise, a polish, or a more
abrasive compound, can be
used to eradicate, or fill, minor
scratches/swirl marks.
 The car may look

G3 great at this stage,
but wax provides additional
protection. Combined wax
and polishes tend to be
compromised products;
enquire how long the wax lasts
before it needs reapplying.
 Alloy wheels are

G4 damaged by brake dust,
especially in winter, where
iron filings present corrode
and stain the finish. A
non-acidic iron remover is
recommended, which is rinsed-
off easily after application.
 While you can wax

G5 alloys, you might
consider spraying a brake
dust repelling sealant onto
them. Follow the instructions
carefully and allow the
product to dry thoroughly
before driving off.
 Ensure that all drain

G6 holes are clear and
that the underside of panels,
including the sills, door
bottoms, bonnet and boot/
tailgate edges, are clean and
free from corrosion, dirt and
leaf deposits.
 It is a good idea to
G7 wash the underside
of the car and clear any
accumulated mud, especially
if you have not done so
already this year. Pictured is
a domestic pressure washer
car underbody attachment,
sold by Kärcher.
 Once the underside

G8 has dried, inspect it
closely for corrosion, which
will spread rapidly when salt is
used on the roads. Should you
find any rust, scrape away as
much loose paint as possible.
 November 2019
16 Car Mechanics www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
 If the rust is
G9
When things
accessible, try
and remove as much
go wrong
loose rust as you can.
As it is likely that you
will not remove every
trace, apply a rust It's best to be prepared. As well
converter solution. as carrying a jack and tools for
Note that these a tyre change, consider either
products cannot be buying an emergency breakdown
applied at very low
kit, or making your own, which
temperatures.
can include:
 Contact details of your
breakdown service (if relevant)
 OBD code reader and reset tool
 Blankets, warm gloves and
disposable vinyl gloves,
high-visibility jackets and
a warning triangle
 A selection of spanners,
pliers, screwdrivers, Allen keys,
 The final task
G10 is undersealing.
Torx bits and hand wipes
The best method of  LED torch
application is with an  Wellington boots
air-powered Schutz gun,  Phone charger or power bank
used with a 1-litre can of
flexible underseal. Wear  Portable booster pack (these can
gloves and overalls and be as small as a mobile phone)
protect your floor – this  Foldable shovel
job can be very messy.
 Should you find

G11 that corrosion is so
advanced that holes have
resulted, such as around
this seatbelt anchorage,
you will have to consider
the extra cost of having new
metal welded into place.
 While conducting
G12 a comprehensive
rustproofing exercise is best
left until spring, you might
consider applying cavity
wax into the box sections,
especially to the rear of the
body and on vehicles with a
separate chassis.
 Fitting mudflaps
G13 not only helps to
protect the car’s flanks
and underside from flying
detritus, but also to reduce
the quantity of spray that
is thrown up by the road
wheels in rain, or slush.
 Despite being
G14 a service item,
it is worth checking that
all locks and latches are
lubricated adequately
before the winter months,
so that they do not
corrode, or seize.

CM Insider
Dave Taylor brings the latest news and product news
WIN Classic Motor Show tickets

 The UK’s biggest indoor motor show, the Lancaster Insurance Show director Lee Masters
Classic Motor Show, with Discovery, will be marking its 35th says: “To get to the 35th www.caarparts.co.uk
anniversary at Birmingham’s NEC from November 8 to 10, 2019 anniversary is very special,
and we have FIVE free pairs of tickets to the event to give away especially with the show continuing to grow year after year, not
to Car Mechanics readers. just in size and audience but also in the standard of cars and
As part of its 35-year celebrations, this year’s show will be displays. We want to say a massive thank you to all those classic
dedicating one of the seven halls to cars built from 1984, which will motoring enthusiasts who have helped and continue to make
include a motoring timeline showing how cars have evolved. There the show the extravaganza it is.”
will also be displays from 300 clubs and groups, covering one Tickets are now on sale, starting from £27.50 for adults when
million square feet and over 120 years of motoring heritage. There booked in advance. Family, weekend and three-day tickets are
will be more than 3000 classic vehicles on display, including cars, also available, as well as reduced-price tickets for groups and
motorbikes, double-decker buses, a steam-roller and even a tank! discounts for members of exhibiting clubs. For full details of ticket
The overall theme of this year’s show is Top Trumps – options and booking details, visit necclassicmotorshow.com
honouring the iconic card game, not the US President! – and
celebrity guests include Wheeler Dealers’ Mike Brewer, Salvage
Hunters: Classic Cars hosts Drew Pritchard and Paul Cowland,
as well as the team from Goblin Works Garage. There’s also a
two-day sale from Silverstone Auctions, a Restoration Theatre,
Sporting Bears’ Dream Rides and 650 traders including the
UK’s biggest autojumble.
* Car Mechanics has FIVE pairs of tickets to the Lancaster Insurance Classic Motor Show, with
Discovery, to give away to readers. For a chance to win, please send an email including your
name and address to carmechanics@bauermedia.co.uk, making sure to write ‘Free NEC ticket
giveaway’ in the subject line of the email. Closing date for entries is November 1, 2019, after
which the five winners will be contacted with details of ticketing arrangements. Good luck!
1
TO
Sealey Rechargeable
WIN
GIVE
AWAY
Floodlight/Inspection
Lamp Docking Station We have one LED1801K
Rechargeable
 This versatile rechargeable worklight from Sealey can be used Floodlight/Inspection
as both a floodlight or, if the individual units are detached from Lamp Docking Station
the docking station, as handheld inspection lamps. Each lamp to give away to CM
readers. For a chance to
features 12 SMD LEDs that produce up to 500 lumens, operated
win it, please complete
by a rolling dimmer switch and powered by a 3.7V 2.6Ah Li-ion the coupon on page 21.
battery that lasts up to eight hours.
The lamps are slim enough to be used in tight spaces with just
a 6mm minimum thickness, and the arm can be rotated by 180°
and folded back so that it can be stored in your pocket. Last of all,
it has three built-in magnets and a hanging hook.
Place the lamps in the dock and the entire unit can be used
as a handheld floodlight when you need a wide spread of
illumination. When the inspection lights are docked, they can
be charged using the two charging points with individual LED
charging level indicators.
The LED1801K Rechargeable Floodlight/Inspection Lamp
Docking Station is supplied as a kit with 2 x LED1801s, a 5V-2A
mains adaptor and 1m USB charging cable for £119.94.
The LED1801 Inspection Lights are also available to buy
separately for £47.94.
Click & Collect vehicle spares, workshop tools and leisure

equipment at over 400 independent member stores. www.caarparts.co.uk

Have a new product to market? Send details to carmechanics@bauermedia.co.uk CM Insider
4 News iN Brief
TO
Liqui Moly 2020 Wall Calendars GIVE
AWAY
 The Exact Fit wiper

blade range made by Trico
scooped the A1 Retail
Product of the Year award
at the buying group’s
convention and awards at
WIN
the Crowne Plaza Newcastle
 Vehicle oil and additive specialist Liqui Moly has produced a pair of
Stephenson Quarter.
limited edition wall calendars for 2020. Their main calendar features
The original equipment
glamorous girls in vehicles and was shot at Kruger National Park in manufacturer and supplier
South Africa. It features 24 images instead of 12. previously won Retail
For those who prefer painted metal to naked skin, there is also the We have two copies of Product of the Year and
Liqui Moly motorsports calendar, which celebrates the company’s the Liqui Moly Girls Retail Supplier of the Year in
wide-ranging sponsorship of racing cars, trucks and motorcycles, Calendar 2020 and 2017 and 2018 respectively.
featuring action images from the race track, off road and on water. two copies of the Liqui Senior brand and product
The motorsports Moly Motorsports manager Sam Robinson and
calendar features Calendar 2020 to give UK and Ireland technical
the conventional 12 away to CM readers. sales representative Andy
For a chance to win Taylor accepted the award.
monthly sheets.
one, please complete
Although the the coupon on page 21.  Leading tyre
calendars will be Don’t forget to indicate manufacturer Falken will be
sent primarily to which calendar you unveiling the successor to
Liqui Moly’s business would prefer to receive. its popular SN832 at Equip
partners, a strictly Auto in Paris on October
limited number of copies will be available to buy 15, 2019. With an emphasis
at www.liqui-moly-teamshop.de (shipping only on all-round efficiency, the
available within Europe) for ¤19.99. new Sincera SN110 Ecorun
will be the centrepiece of
the tyre manufacturer’s
display alongside its
Sealey
expanding range of car,
light commercial, truck and
bus tyres. Thanks to clever
buys aerodynamics and a new
construction technique,
Worksafe the SN110 will offer you
better fuel economy and a
 Sealey has announced that it has bought the established longer tyre life,
consumables and safety equipment brand Worksafe following
the news that the brand’s owner, Safety & Electrical Products
Ltd, had gone into administration. The Worksafe brand
encompasses more than 1000 products, including drillbits,
cutting blades and workplace helmets, all of which will
continue to be available through Sealey distributors. A new
Worksafe catalogue is expected to be launched later in 2019.
 The latest Sealey

Win a Seven-  Absolute Alignment,
Winter Promotion is
now underway, offering
drawer Push-To- the UK’s leading supplier of
wheel alignment equipment,
discounts and special
offers on up to 550
Open Rollcab has introduced a new
drive-over tyre profiler
seasonal items, including  Sealey is giving CM readers the which instantly assesses
workshop heaters, jump chance to win one of its APPD7G tyre wear as vehicles enter
starts, battery chargers, Seven-drawer Push-To-Open the workshop. Customers
lighting and safety Rollcabs in Hi-Vis Green, worth receive a professional print-
equipment. Pick up a more than £500. out regarding the condition
copy at your nearest To enter the competition to win of their tyres, which also
Sealey stockist or view it a rollcab, simply register or sign in indicates whether a full
online at sealey.co.uk sealey.co.uk. Closing date for entries is December 31, 2019. wheel alignment is required
on the vehicle.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics November 2019Car Mechanics 19

CM Insider
NewS iN BRief New from LASeR

Stainless Steel Drip Tray
 We all know that it can be difficult to avoid messy and
unsightly fluid spillage when you’re working on your vehicle,
but this handy stainless steel drip tray (part number 7352)
makes it a little bit easier. The tray is usefully sized at 600mm
 Northampton-based long, 400mm wide and 48mm deep and is manufactured from
garage In Town Automotive Type 201 stainless steel, which is exceptionally tough and
has been announced as the strong. It will slip easily under even the lowest sports car, looks
host of the prestigious Top professional if your car is on display and is very easy to clean. It
Technician/Top Garage
can also be used with the Laser oil absorption pads if required
2020 finals. This comes
(part numbers 5712 and 5713). It offers great value at £18.29.
in addition to the news
that garage management
specialist TechMan will be
co-host of the finals, as
Specialist Tool Set for Mercedes-Benz E-Class
well as one of the headline  This three-piece tool set (part number 7250) comprises special
sponsors of the awards tools for use when draining and refilling the automatic transmission
dinner, to take place on fluid in a Mercedes-Benz E-Class E350 BlueTEC fitted with the
June 20, 2020 in the nine-speed 9G-Tronic transmission (type 725.0xx). This type of
Midsummer Hall at the transmission can be fitted with two different sump types and the
Jurys Inn Milton Keynes. To 7250 kit brings together the components needed to complete the
find out more or to arrange draining and refilling job on both types, cross referencing to the
a demonstration please OE tools 725 589 00 90 00 and 725 589 02 90 00.
ring 01604 666720 or visit You will need a suitable transmission fluid pump with a fluid measuring system,
TechMangms.com such as the Laser 4792 ATF dispenser, plus Mercedes-Benz OEM electronic
diagnostic equipment which checks fluid level and temperature. Refer to the
 British Touring Car
Championship organiser
manufacturer’s technical service instructions and documentation for the correct
TOCA has awarded a vital procedure for the specific transmission fitted. The set is priced at £44.20.
contract to Cosworth Further info visit lasertools.co.uk. Remember to shop around for the best prices and special offers.
Electronics for the design,
supply and servicing of
the BTCC Hybrid System,
which will be introduced
New from KAMASA
for the 2022 race season.
The BTCC is the first major Screwdriver Set
touring car championship  This comprehensive new screwdriver set from Kamasa Tools (part
in the world to announce number 56131) offers a fine selection of good quality screwdrivers
the move to hybrid and along with a bit-driver and two sets of Hex keys (metric and imperial).
is now the first to specify The set comprises 17 soft-grip handled screwdrivers manufactured
the exact timing, pathway from chrome vanadium steel with a satin chrome finish. They include:
and technical details of its  3 Star screwdrivers: T8 x 75mm, T10 x 100mm and T15 x 100mm
hybrid power.
 4 Phillips screwdrivers: Ph0 x 75mm, Ph1 x 75mm, Ph1 x 100mm
and Ph2 x 100mm
 4 PoziDrive screwdrivers: Pz0 x 75mm, Pz1 x 100mm, Pz2 x 100mm
and Pz3 x 150mm
 6 flat-head screwdrivers: 3mm x 75mm, 3mm x 75mm (cabinet),
5mm x 75mm, 5mm x 100mm, 6mm x 100mm and 8mm x 150mm
The Hex key sets include:
 8 metric: 1.5mm, 2mm, 2,5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 5.5mm and 6mm
 8 imperial: 1/16in, 5/64in, 3/32in, 1/8in, 5/32in, 3/16in, 7/32in and 1/4in.
The bit-driver is of the same specification as the screwdrivers and is supplied with 10 25mm bits: flat
 Denso has added 10 new 5mm, 6mm and 7mm; Pz1, Pz2, and Pz3; Star T7, T8, T9 and T10
OE quality part numbers to The Kamasa Screwdriver Set comes with a useful plastic stand for easy
its Lambda sensor range, access and is typically priced at £49.54.
with the new references
covering an additional
900,000 vehicles. Nine
patented air/fuel sensors
Pliers and Side-cutters
 This new range of robust pliers and side-cutters is suitable for a wide range
cover modern vehicle of applications from automotive or electrical use in the workshop and home.
applications that use
Manufactured from S45C carbon steel, their thermoplastic rubber handles
genuine Denso technology
have a soft grip but remain resistant to tears and abrasions, with excellent weather and chemical
from the factory. The tenth
is a new type of universal
resistance. The range comprises 150mm side-cutters (part number 56122; £8.23), 200mm long-
fit sensor made to OE nose pliers (part number 56123; £11.47), 175mm combination pliers (part number 56124; £11.28)
specifications and covers a 200mm combination pliers (part number 56125; £11.88) and 250mm water pump pliers with a
huge variety of models. 60mm maximum jaw diameter (part number 56126; £17.07).
Further details from www.kamasa.co.uk


CM Insider
Gift books from Haynes NEWS IN BRIEF

 Christmas is just around the corner and these gift books from Haynes  Construction of a
would make great stocking-stuffers for the car nut in your family. £5 million raw materials
warehouse with 4000
Bluffer’s Guide To Cars (£6.99) Martin Gurdon pallet spaces is underway
at Fuchs Lubricants’
 You’ll be able to go one up on even the most pompous petrolhead with Staffordshire headquarters.
the fascinating and often hilarious snippets of motoring trivia collected The fully automated
together here by author Martin Gurdon. Aside from being a compendium warehouse is due for
of essential knowledge to avoid confusing your trunnions with your completion in the second
gudgeons, it’s also a potted history of the most famous and infamous quarter of 2020.
moments in motoring history, related with wit and wisdom.
Car Hacks (£12.99) Craig Stewart

 We all know how insanely expensive it can be to run a car these days.
In an effort to preserve your sanity and your bank balance, author Craig
Stewart presents 126 clever and quirky tips to help you save money COMPETITION
and maintain family harmony. From repurposing household items as
motoring essentials and finding ways to control the chaos of your garage
WINNERS
to performing makeshift emergency repairs and finding cheap solutions TROLLEY
to expensive problems, there’s a wealth of useful ideas in these pages.
JACKS
Haynes Desk Diary 2020 (£12.99) J Keltie, Glasgow
R Barham, Petworth
 Now in its 15th year, the 160-page Haynes Desk Diary 2020 J Denis Clayden, Cheshunt
celebrates the 50th anniversary of the Ford Escort Mk1 by featuring the
J Bailey, Stockport
iconic Mexico edition on the cover. Following the design of the iconic
Haynes manuals, the 270mm x 210mm hardback presents the year in J Ashby, Tiptree
week-to-view format on high-quality paper, interspersed with classic R Crossland, Huddersfield
cutaway diagrams from the Haynes archives and appendices of useful G Williams, Hope
dates and automotive-related information. This year the diary is also L Walker, Plymouth
available in a smaller 220mm x 148mm hardback edition (£7.99)
Q What is the saddle
Available from Haynes.com, Amazon and other booksellers. diameter in millimetres?
A 110
VIOFO A119 V3 Quad HD Dashcam

 Last month in CM Insider we featured the VIOFO A129 Duo Dashcam.
This is the upgraded version of its smaller sibling. The A119 V3 dashcam
features 5MP IMX355 Sony Starvis sensor and F1.6 7G lens and the 2K Quad
HD+1600P video resolution enables it to produce sharp, clear images day COMPETITION
and night. Featuring an 140° angle for comprehensive coverage, the unit WINNERS
prevents a fisheye view and the two-inch screen allows users to play back
files or toggle camera settings instantly. The GPS module will record the real- IMPACT WRENCHES
time speed, time and GPS route in the video file, allowing compatible viewers A Lock, Broxbourne
to display the data on playback. It also features an improved parking mode G Jones, Bridgend
function, with three options: Auto Event Detection, Time Lapse and Low Bitrate Recording.
J Carter, Watford
To monitor the vehicle while parked, a HK3 ACC three-wire cable can be bought whereby Parking
Mode provides 24-hour surveillance on your parked vehicle, provides continuous power without Q What is the maximum
torque of each impact
draining the battery. The dashcam is very compact and can be fitted on the windshield without
wrench in Nm?
obstructing your view of the road. With a built-in microphone, auto start/stop and a one-year
guarantee, the VIOFO A119 V3 is keenly priced at £99.99 with free delivery from Amazon. A 450
To be in with a chance of winning one of our FREE giveaways this issue, please indicate your preferred product below:
Sealey Rechargeable Inspection Lamp/Floodlight Docking Station * Car Mechanics will only use the data
Liqui Moly Girls Calendar 2020 Liqui Moly Motorsports Calendar 2020 you supply on this entry form to
contact you if you are a winner. The
Simply fill in your details below and send to: Car Mechanics Giveaways November, winner’s details will be used for the
Bauer Media, Media House, Lynchwood, Peterborough PE2 6EA. Offer closes November 20, 2019. sole purpose of organising delivery of
a prize. All entries are held securely
Name: .................................................................................... Address: .................................................................. until the prize draw has been made
and then securely disposed of within
.................................................................................................................................................................................... seven days of the winners being
Postcode: ................................................................... Telephone No: .................................................................... chosen. Winners’ details will be held
for one month until the prize has been
Email:* ....................................................................................................................................................................... dispatched, then securely disposed of.


Tales from
the workshop
Finding & fixing advice from our garage proprietor eve o hwe
AUDI A3 The oil had leaked from the oil cooler

and contaminated the cooling system.
Coolant mess
u Thanks to checking the coolant quite regularly,
the owner of this 2001 Audi A3 TDI had recently
noticed a distinct change in the look of the fluid.
It slowly dawned upon him that this was due to
the ingress of oil. We confirmed that it was oil, but
we were also able to reassure him that it wasn’t
necessarily the failure of the head gasket.
One of the other common causes is failure of
the oil cooler. This is quite easily changed and
did turn out to be the problem with this little A3.
After confirming this and replacing the cooler, the
worst part of the job was cleaning out the cooling
system. This needs to be done thoroughly, as any
oil left in the system will deteriorate the coolant
hoses and rubber O-rings in the system.
FORD FIESTA VAUXHALL ASTRA
Clutch loss Noisy brake pads

u With the clutch pedal If the problem was with u From the noise the brakes
pushing to the floor and the clutch assembly or slave were making on this 2003
staying there, the owner cylinder, then the gearbox Vauxhall Astra, the owner was
of this 2004 Ford Fiesta would need to come out and sure they must have been
Finesse was concerned that the owner’s fears confirmed. down to the metal. This was
he was looking at the cost of However, inspecting the not the case and the noise he
a replacement clutch. vehicle, we found that the was hearing was more of a
hydraulic clutch release vibration than a scraping.
mechanism had failed. He was correct in thinking
A quick look at the clutch that the brake pads were low
master cylinder revealed and, by bringing the vehicle
signs of seal failure. Fluid in when he did, had avoided
was seeping out from the any problems had the pads
end of the cylinder and, if worn down to the metal and
fluid was getting out, then damaged the brake discs.
air was getting in. The brake pad lining had not worn
One of the symptoms when down to the metal backing, but
We bled out the clutch to the brake pad linings begin was creating a loud squeal.
confirm the diagnosis, then to get thin is that they will
fitted a new master cylinder heat up too highly, raising the temperature of the brake lining
and got the Fiesta back on and causing brake squeal. Some pads are fitted with a small
the road without the expense metal clip made of sprung steel which is designed to make
of a new clutch assembly. contact with the brake disc and create an audible warning
before the pad lining wears too thin. These Astra pads did not
There were signs of leaking fluid from around the master cylinder.
have that, but had been making a noise anyway!
SOLUTIONS MADE IN GERMANY.™ www.febi.com

SPONSORED BY febi
www.febi.com
VOLKSWAGEN GOLF
Unwanted
squeal
u Some engine squeals
are easier to silence than
others. The one troubling
the owner of this 2008
VW Golf diesel was being
emitted when the clutch
was being depressed. The
The alternator is squeezed in between owner suspected the fix was
the sump and the aircon compressor.
going to involve replacing
MERCEDES-BENZ A-CLASS
the clutch assembly, which
was going to be expensive.
Squeezed-in alternator We concurred that the
clutch would need to be
u When this 2001 Mercedes-Benz A160 petrol back of the engine, between the sump and
replaced before the release
was brought to us with starting problems, we the aircon compressor. Once the auxiliary
bearing seized and made
expected the worst. The starter motor on the drivebelt has been removed, the alternator
matters worse.
early A-Class is very difficult to work on. can be unbolted and pulled down and out of
As long as it’s not a
However, we were pleased to discover position. Fitting the new one normally takes a
six-speed model, the job
that the cause of the starting problems was little bit of jiggling around to enable the bolts
of replacing the clutch on
that the battery was not being charged. The to line up, but the trickiest part of the job is
a Golf is quite easy and,
alternator on this model is squeezed in at the then refitting the auxiliary drivebelt.
because the driveshafts can
be unbolted, is generally
less messy than most.
Once the gearbox was out,
BMW 5-SERIES
we could see that the release
bearing was at the end of
Interior its serviceable life and, with
a new clutch fitted and
mirror everything back together,
the clutch could be operated
trouble in complete silence.
u The owner of this

2012 BMW 520d was
alarmed to come out
one morning and find his
rearview mirror hanging
by the connecting wire.
He could see no point The interior mirror
for the mirror to fix back had dropped off and
the weight of the unit
onto the windscreen was straining the
and drove very carefully connecting cable.
along to our workshop,
with the hanging mirror gently swinging at every twist and turn of the road.
This is not an uncommon occurrence on the BMW 5-Series as the mirror is a fairly
weighty object with all the extras it has to hold. The owner was hoping that we would
just be able to stick it straight back onto the screen, but unfortunately the job requires
specialist materials used by windscreen fitters. We unplugged the mirror to save the strain
on the wiring loom, then called in our local windscreen fitters, who have the appropriate The release bearing had begun
adhesive to ensure that, once the mirror is replaced on the screen, it won’t drop down again. to collapse, so it wouldn’t be too
long before the clutch failed.

Tales from the Workshop ON TOUR
Tales on Tour
Technical editor Steve Rothwell visits
businesses listed in CM’s Good Garage Guide
Ivydene Garage, Ashford, Kent
This DVSA van was booked in

for its MOT and a heater repair.
 The family-run Ivydene Garage has Keith McCrudden. As well as Keith and AJS all within easy delivery range.
been in its current premises on a small Peter, the workshop employs foreman Having expanded twice in its history,
industrial estate in Ashford, Kent, since Will Lofting, mechanic John Nicholson- the garage is hoping to move to even
1999 and has been a Bosch service Wray and apprentice Joshua Bird, larger premises in the near future,
centre for 32 years. with administration handled by Kate in order to accommodate another
It was established in 1981 by Peter Shearcroft and Jackie Long. The garage ramp to help cope with the growing
Shearcroft, who now works there part- is ideally located for parts delivery from network of customers. The aim is
time and is in the process of handing all the major main dealers, with TPS, to have a dedicated diagnostics bay
over control of the business to manager Euro Car Parts, Motor Parts Direct and where more complex problems such
Servicing a Toyota Aygo.
Workshop manager Keith McCrudden.

AVAILABLE FROM YOUR
LOCAL MOTOR FACTOR
This 2003 Audi TT needed a new timing chain and transfer box.
www.febi.com
The Audi TT’s gearbox was out in readiness

for fitting the reconditioned transfer box.
as programming body control modules addition, a 2003 Audi TT was in for
can take place using dealer-level a replacement timing chain and Another issue is the increasing need
equipment. At present the company’s exchange transfer box, while a VW to pay a fee to get access to the correct
kit includes Bosch KTS, PicoScope, Transporter was awaiting MOT repairs software to fix a specific issue, coupled
Autel Maxisys MS908, Snap-on Modus and a Toyota Aygo required a service with the fact that many new vehicles
Edge and Launch, and the workshop and replacement indicator stalk. There no longer have a service book, but are
keeps up-to-date with the latest were even two military vehicles in for instead registered online with the dealer.
specifications using Autodata. servicing and winch repairs. One of Keith’s biggest concerns is
Keith has completed part one of the The labour rate at Ivydene is £60 per that the long-life service intervals on
hybrid testing course, so the company hour, but to remain competitive they do modern vehicles are only possible if a
will soon have full qualifications to work work at a special rate when servicing. good quality oil is used, which is not
on hybrid vehicles. They also hope Keith is proud to say that they will beat something that is fully understood
to extend their range to cover full EV the main dealers’ service prices, but by motorists. Then there’s the issue
vehicles in the future. still carry out a more thorough job. of customer-supplied parts. Keith
Along with the expansion of the One of Keith’s biggest frustrations has to explain that no warranty can
workshop, Ivydene intend to improve its is trying to explain to customers what be applied to the job unless Ivydene
online presence in the coming months. they are getting for their money. The supplies the parts to ensure they are
Although the company does have a average customer has little idea of the using quality products.
website, Keith would like to increase experience and background knowledge
their presence in other social media. required to rectify more complex Ivydene Garage
Both Peter and Keith have been problems. This is made worse by anyone Unit 99, Ellingham Industrial Estate,
in the trade since leaving school. being able to buy a cheap code reader Ellingham Way,Ashford,
and check for fault codes. As CM readers Kent TN23 6LZ.
Keith’s inspiration came from his
Tel 01233 636081
grandad, with whom he built kit cars know, things aren’t always that simple
E-Mail ivydenegarage@boschauto.co.uk.
as a child. He knew he wanted to and the presence of a fault code doesn’t ivydenegarage.boschauto.co.uk
continue on this path professionally always give the full picture of a problem.
and did a three-year college course
after leaving school, before starting Replacing the head gasket on a Dodge Ram 5.7 V8 Hemi.
work at Ivydene. Although expanding
the diagnostic side of the business is
his priority, Keith still enjoys working
on older vehicles, especially classic
Volkswagens. His personal fleet
includes a 1967 Volkswagen Beetle, a
VW Golf R32 and a VW Transporter.
Keith said that one of the most intense
jobs he has undertaken was replacing
the twin turbos on a VW Touareg.
Another big job completed recently
was a chassis change on a Range Rover
Sport. With the complexity of wiring on
modern vehicles, such major projects
can quickly eat up workshop time.
On the day I visited, the workshop
was fully booked with MOTs. In

Win COMPETITION
Battery 1
Simply answer the multi-choice
question in the coupon below
to be
WON!
charger/
BC190
RRP £107.98
inc VAT
starters
➜ The BC190 and BC125 battery
3 £311
charger/starters are ideal for
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worth more than
purpose units for automotive
use, supplying either a rapid
high boost input to get vehicles
started quickly or a slow trickle
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BC190 specifications
l Maximum boost charge: 180 amp
l 12V/24V dual voltage
l Maximum slow/trickle charge: 38 amp
l Thermal overload protection
l Input: 230V, 50Hz, 1ph
l Includes positive battery lead, 2 x spare fuses & carry handle
l Dimensions: 220mm x 285mm x 202mm l Weight: 8.7kg
BC125 specifications
l Maximum boost charge: 120 amp to be
2
l 12V/24V dual voltage WON!
l Maximum slow/trickle charge: 20 amp
l Thermal overload protection l Input: 230V, 50Hz, p
l Includes positive battery lead, 2 x spare fuses & carry handle
l Dimensions: 220mm x 285mm x 202mm l Weight: 8kg
BC125
RRP £101.99
HOW TO ENTER: Entry is free. Do not include subscriptions or any inc VAT
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published in the January 2020 issue – due out December 19, 2019.
Post to: CAR MECHANICS CLARKE STARTER/CHARGERS COMP, Dept CM11, Bauer Media, Media House, Lynchwood, Peterborough PE2 6EA
Simply answer the following question for a chance to win one of these three prizes:
Telephone No: ..............................................................................................................
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mail:* ..........................................................................................................................
ANSWER: 38 ❍ 40 ❍ 42 ❍ (Tick one only)
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NEW
RANGE
MODULAR GARAGE £
NOW FROM
819EXC.VAT .00
SUPERSTORES
NATIONWIDE STORAGE SYSTEMS £
982 .80
INC.VAT
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CREATE THE PERFECT FITTED GARAGE / WORKSHOP
WHERE QUALITY HEAVY DUTY, PROFESSIONAL PACKAGES - CHOICE OF 10
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ALL UNITS ALSO AVAILABLE SINGLY FOR CUSTOM BUILD
PACKAGE A High quality,
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INC VAT
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Modular design ball bearing
– build your own drawer runners
by adding units
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cabinets
Gas struts to
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1 FULL DETAILS -
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HEAVY DUTY & MECHANICS/

PROFESSIONAL PROFESSIONAL
THE ULTIMATE IN TOOL CHESTS/
TOOL STORAGE! CABINETS
• Extra heavy gauge double wall
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EXTENSION
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HANDLE FOR EASY ROLLER £
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MOVEMENTFITS
EITHER SIDE
RUNNERS
GREAT LOOKING, BIG 5" INDUSTRIAL CHROME 13 DRAWER
EXTRA LARGE SPOKED WHEELS FOR EASY MOVEMENT
FOR SMOOTH
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DRAWER PULLS OPENING
RUBBER GRIP MODEL DESCRIPTION DIMS EXC. INC.
SIDE HANDLES “Fantastic chest and top box LxWxH (mm) VAT VAT ACTION
combi, well built, well packed 1 CBB209B 9 Dr Chest 710x315x420 £129.98 £155.98
2 ideal for home and
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LARGE CAPACITY
249EXC.VAT
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CBB215B
2 CBB217B
5 Dr Cabinet 758x468x815 £199.98
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LOWER STORAGE
299INC.VAT
7 Dr Cabinet 758x468x975
£ .98
CBB213B 3 Dr Cabinet 758x481x975 £199.98 £239.98 COMPARTMENTS
1 £
119EXC.VAT
.98
EXTRA GAS STRUTS

Hold lid open 1 144EXC.VAT
£ .99 £
143INC.VAT
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LARGE 1 £
269EXC.VAT
.98 173INC.VAT
£ .99
CHESTS/ 30KG
£
323INC.VAT
.98
TOOL CHESTS/ CABINETS MAX
DRAWER
LOAD
CABINETS
• Heavy duty/industrial build
41" CABINET
Combines premium quality 2 199EXC.VAT
quality with lockable front £ .98
EXTRA LARGE
covers for added security
and protection
LOCKABLE FRONT
with fiercely competitive
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£
239INC.VAT
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bearing roller drawers

GREAT LOOKING,
EXTRA LARGE COVERS STORE
NEATLY WITHIN
2 £
289EXC.VAT
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EXTRA
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2 SEE WEBSITE FOR LARGE
469EXC.VAT
BIG 5” INDUSTRIAL FOR EASY
CHROME SPOKED £ .00 CABINET
MOVEMENT PACKAGE DEALS BOTTOM
562INC.VAT
WHEELS FOR EASY FITS EITHER £ .80 DIMS EXC. INC.
MOVEMENT* SIDE
MODEL DESCRIPTION LxWxH (mm) VAT VAT
WITH TOOLS DRAWERS
MODEL SIZE DESCRIPTION DIMS EXC. INC. 1 CBB209DF 9 Dr chest 710x370x420 £144.99 £173.99 MODEL DESCRIPTION DIMS EXC. INC.
LxWxH (mm) VAT VAT 2 CBB211DF 11 Dr Cabinet 785x490x1075 £289.98 £347.98 LxWxH (mm) VAT VAT
1 CBB224B 41" 14 Dr chest 1045x415x486 £269.98 £323.98 CBB309DF 9 Dr chest 975x370x420 £169.98 £203.98 1 CLB900 9 Dr chest 660x305x475 £119.98 £143.98
2 CBB226B 41" 16 Dr cabinet 1126x468x1000 £469.00 £562.80 CBB311DF 11 Dr Cabinet 1045x490x1075 £349.98 £419.98 2 CLB1007 7 Dr cabinet 685x465x955 £199.98 £239.98
BOLTLESS SHELVING BENCHES

Simple fast
VE HEAVY DUTY
BOLTLESS
WORKBENCH
WITH NEW
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FROM ONLY
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EXT
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£
35.98
INC.VAT Strong WHEN YOU BUY CS5265
Boltless, quick and easy
assembly (only a mallet
Easy to assemble,
150
providing valuable
9mm 4 SHELVING UNITS required) • Tough steel frame working space and
KG
fibreboard AND • Adjustable height shelves
SAVE AT LEAST plenty of additional
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PER SHELF £23.99 INC.VAT
board shelves
Strong CHOICE OF 5 COLOURS
• (W)1220 x (D)460 x (H)1830 Available in Red or
£
64EXC.VAT
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350 12 mm ONLY Galvanised Finish £

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• Dimensions (LxWxH) -
95INC.VAT
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PER SHELF SILVER & GALVANISED PER SHELF • Pegboard back wall
STEEL with 30 hooks supplied
WI BLUE, RED AND
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WxDxH(mm) EXC.VATINC.VAT 20mm CWB-R1B
RANGE 150kg 800x300x1500 £29.98 £35.98
29151
350kg 900x400x1800 £49.98 £59.98
ALL SIZES/SPECIFICATIONS ARE APPROXIMATE S X PAG OR OR
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IDEAL ALL-WEATHER
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.00
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274INC.VAT
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Britain’s leading supplier

See online for included
accessories
135TE
SUPERSTORES
GAS, TIPS, NATIONWIDE
MODEL MIN-MAX AMPS EXC.VAT INC.VAT SHROUDS
PRO90 24-90 £194.99 £233.99 & WIRE IN
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135TE Turbo 30-130 £249.98 £299.98
151TE Turbo 30-150
175TECM Turbo 30-170
£289.00
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205TE Turbo 30-185 £489.00 £586.80 £
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Ideal for use as a
UP TO 24'
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NO GAS/GAS NO GAS/GAS T JUMP STARTS Extra tough triple layer
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Provides essential home,
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weatherproof cover
Professional type torch with Heavy duty powder
on/off control Thermal overload Uses flux cored steel
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£
64EX.VAT light
.99 assistance Integral work coated steel tubing
protection Turbo fan cooled
Easy conversion to gas gas shroud as it burns
£
77INC.VAT
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compressor Long life battery
Ratchet tight
tensioning
ZIP CLOSE DOOR
with optional accessories 151EN STARTING PEAK EXC. INC. *was £346.80 inc. VAT
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219EX.VAT .98
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CIG81020* 6.1 x 3 x 2.4M
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149INC.VAT
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37EXC.VAT
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£
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71INC.VAT
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*Automatic £
29INC.VAT
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WELDER ACTIVATED charger BES Keep

batteries
loop backing pad and
hook & loop wool
For home user, HEADSHIELDS - maintains SELLER in top polishing bonnet.
automotive Activates instantly when optimal charging condition 1200W
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industrial EN379 Suitable for arc, MODEL MAX EXC.VAT INC.VAT CB09-12 period
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ONLINE & 160N PROFESSIONAL QUALITY
40-150 £76.99 £92.39 BC210C 12V lead acid £39.98 £47.98
IN-STORE EA200 60-200 £99.98 £119.98 FROM ONLY Built for tough daily use in
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50-185 £104.99 £125.99 129EX.VAT
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235TEN# 40-210 £159.98 £191.98 ARC / TIG 155INC.VAT
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ENGINE STARTERS
* Available with/without 7 pce
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CAR RAMPS INVERTER Ammeter Multi-position NEW ‡ Adjustable polycarbonate safety
WELDERS charge regulator RANGE screen # Economy model
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and quickly FROM ONLY Efficient inverter Overload protection FROM ONLY
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29EX.VAT ATTERY
*was £191.98 inc. VAT £64EX.VAT
• Tough £ .98 technology on charging cycle £ .99 CSA10BB
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35INC.VAT
Variable CHARGER/ MODEL EXC.VAT INC.VAT
#was £286.80 inc. VAT 77INC.VAT BEST
£ .98 .99
output current
steel PER PAIR MAINTAINERS 4 tonne bench# £139.98 £167.98
10 tonne bench* £209.00 £250.80 SELLER
construction MODEL MIN/MAX ELECTRODE MODEL MAX AMPS FROM ONLY
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49EXC.VAT
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MMA140 20A-140A 1.6-3.2 £119.00 £142.80
BC130C
BC190
15/120
38/180
£64.99
£94.99
£77.99
£113.99 £
59INC.VAT
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20 tonne floor £359.00 £430.80
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£
139EX.VAT
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AT133 10A-130A 2.5/3.2 £129.98 £155.98 BC210C 25/200 £119.98 £143.98 IBC20 50 tonne floor‡ £1498.00 £1797.60
£
167INC.VAT
.98
AXLE STANDS AT162 10A-160A 2.5/3.2/4.0 £149.98 £179.98 BC410E 35/400 £139.98 £167.98 MODEL VOLTS MAX EXC.VAT INC.VAT
MMA200 20A-200A 1.6-4 £159.00 £190.80 WBC180 35/180 £139.98 £167.98 FROM ONLY
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Ratchet action FROM ONLY AT135 10A-130A 2.5/3.2 £169.98 £203.98 WBC240* 45/240 £154.98 £185.98 IBC7 12/24V 7A £49.98 £59.98
£
49EX.VAT
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for quick height £
adjustment 13EX.VAT
.99 AT165 10A-160A 2.5/3 8 BC205N
WBC400
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60/350
£179.98
£199.00
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£
59INC.VAT
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Sold in pairs
£
16INC.VAT
.79
BC520P# 50/510 £219.00 £262.80
IBC20 12/24V 20A £59.98 £71.98
VACUUM * SS =
#per single stand
HYDRAULIC BLAST CABINETS PRESSURISED CLEANERS Stainless
Steel
*Aluminium
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9EXC.VAT
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11INC.VAT
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CAX6TP 6 333-500mm £29.98 £35.98 standing models DELIVERY HOSE, 4 CERAMIC DRY/WET VAT VAT
CAX-6TBC 6 400-615mm £34.99 £41.99 JACK NOZZLES AND SAFETY HOOD
HEIGHT EXC. INC. ALUMINIUM OXIDE FROM ONLY
CVAC20P 1250W 16/12ltr £49.98 £59.98
CAX3TA* 3 295-395mm £49.98 £59.98 POWDER FROM ONLY £
CAX10TP# 10 450-750mm £86.99 £104.39 MODEL
CBJ2B
CAP.
2
(mm)
148-276
VAT
£9.98
VAT
£11.98 £10.99 EX.VAT 109
.98
EXC.VAT £
FROM ONLY
139EX.VAT
.99
CVAC20SS* 1400W 16/12ltr £59.98
CVAC20PR2 1400W 16/12ltr £64.99
£71.98
£77.99
CBJ3B 3 180-350 £14.99 £17.99 £13.19 INC.VAT £
131
.98 CSB20B
INC.VAT £
167INC.VAT
.99 CVAC25SS* 1400W 19/17ltr £69.98 £83.98
CBJ5B 5 185-355 £17.99 £21.59 MODEL DESC. TYPE EXC.VAT INC.VAT CVAC30SSR* 1400W 24/21ltr £89.98 £107.98
2 & 3 TONNE CBJ8B 8 190-365 £19.98 £23.98 CSB20B Compact Cabinet Bench £109.98 £131.98
TROLLEY JACKS CBJ10B 10 195-375 £24.99 £29.99 SB30 Large Cabinet Floor £279.00 £334.80 MODEL TANK FLOW RATE EX. VAT INC.VAT AUTOMOTIVE
FROM ONLY CBJ12B 12 200-380 £27.99 £33.59 VOLUME REQ. WHEEL DOLLY SET
£
29EX.VAT
.98
CBJ15B 15 205-390 £29.98 £35.98 CPSB100B 32 litre 6-25 cfm £139.99 £167.99 AWD1
£
35INC.VAT
.98 CBJ20B
CBJ30B
20
30
217-407
230-370
£38.99
PARTS
£59.99
£46.79
£71.99
CPSB200B 63 litre 6-25 cfm £169.99 £203.99
JACKS
ALSO IN CORDED IMPACT WASHERS
STOCK U WRENCHES NEW PARTS WASHER FROM ONLY
ENGINE 46EXC.VAT
£ .99
TO 5 TONNE CTJ3000G
CEW1100
FLUID FROM
£
49EXC.VAT
.98
STANDS BIG 56INC.VAT
£ .39
MODEL TYPE TONNE EXC.VAT INC.VAT
£5.99 INC.VAT £
59INC.VAT
.98 3" CASTORS PER PAIR
CTJ2L Long 2 £29.98 £35.98 FROM ONLY Rotates Four non-marking castors for easy
CTJ2000LPB
CTJ2250Q
DIY Low Profile 2 £33.99 £40.79
Quick Lift 2.25 £34.99 £41.99 Ideal for
£
39EX.VAT
.98 through 360˚ movement in confined spaces Heavy duty steel
construction - load rating 500kg per dolly
CTJ2250LP* Low Profile 2.25 £39.98 £47.98 garage mechanics
FROM ONLY
£
47INC.VAT
.98 CES680F Fully tested to
proof load PAY
CTJ3000GB Pro Garage 3 £79.98 £95.98
CTJ3000QLB Quick Lift 3 £86.99 £104.39 INC 17, 19,
710
£
59EXC.VAT
.98
EXC. INC. MONTHLY
CTJ3QLG Pro Instant Lift 3 £97.99 £117.59 21, 22MM
SOCKETS Nm
£
71INC.VAT
.98 MODEL TANK CAP. TYPE EXC.VAT INC.VAT MODEL CAPACITY
CES340 340kg
VAT VAT
£49.98 £59.98
6 SPEED
CTJ3000G
CTJ2QLP
Pro Garage 3 £99.98 £119.98
Low Quick Lift 2 £114.99 £137.99 & CASE
CW2D
CW1D
10Ltrs
45Ltrs
Bench £39.98
Floor £99.98
£47.98
£119.98 CES450 450kg £64.99 £77.99 METAL
CTJ1500QULPUltra Low Quick Lift1.5 £156.99 £188.39 CWM20 22.5Ltrs Floor £139.98 £167.98 CES560 560kg £79.98 £95.98 *Folds for LATHE WITH
* CTJ2250LP has a 2.25 tonne capacity, has a MODEL POWER TORQUE EXC.VAT INC.VAT CW40 75Ltrs Floor £159.98 £191.98 CES680F* 680k 99 98 119 98 storage 12 SPEED
low entry of only 80mm and includes 2 sockets CEW1000 1/2" 1000W 450Nm £59.98 £71.98 MILL DRILL
E
CRANES PACKALG - CL500M
CEW1100 3/4" 1100W 710Nm £89.98 £107.98
ALUMINIUM EA
RACING JACKS TOOL CHEST D
Quick lift Non-marking FROM ONLY AND TOOLS
nylon wheels Rubber
contact pad - helps 18V ½" BEST
£
164EXC.VAT
.99
FROM ONLY
protect vehicle BRUSHLESS SELLER £
197INC.VAT
.99 £
289EXC.VAT
.98
undersides CTJ1250AB IMPACT

450NM £
347INC.VAT
.98 VIDEO
ON-LINE
WRENCHES MODEL DESC. EXC.VAT INC.VAT 329 HAND CHT624

3 forward and CFC100 1 ton fold £164.99 £197.99 TOOLS FULL RANGE
1098EXC.VAT
FROM ONLY £ .00
reverse gears £
114EXC.VAT
.99 CFC1000LR 1 ton £219.00 £262.80 This great OF ACCESSORIES
FROM ONLY £
137INC.VAT
.99
long reach value set includes IN STOCK 1317INC.VAT
£ .60
94EXC.VAT
£ .99 CTC900B 9 drawer
LOW 430mm between centres
ENTRY *steel chassis
£ .99
113
INC.VAT
chest & CTC500B
5 drawer cabinet Compound slide with 4 way tool post
ONLY CIR18LIC Folding and fixed Includes the Power fed screw cutting facility
85MM MODEL CAP. EXC.VAT INC.VAT Fully tested most popular Forward/reverse lathe operation
frames available
CTJ1250AB 1.25T £94.99 £113.99 MODEL DESC. EXC.VAT INC.VAT to proof load Robust, rugged construction sockets, spanners, Clutch for independent mill/drill operation
CTJ1800A 1.8T £159.98 £191.98 CIR18LIC 2x 2.0Ah Li-Ion £114.99 £137.99 Overload safety valve pliers, drivers, Floor Stand Including Suds Tray
CTJ2500QLG* 2.5T £149.98 £179.98 CIR18LI 2x 4.0Ah Li-Ion £169.98 £203.98 CFC100 wrenches etc £179.00 Exc. VAT/£214.80 Inc. VAT
29320LH
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BRITAIN’S NO. 1 FOR AIR COMPRESSORS

TURBO FAN GAS ELECTRIC HEATERS
Offering low cost, HEATERS FROM ONLY
efficient heating BEST £
49EXC.VAT
.98
SELLER £
59INC.VAT
.98 FROM ONLY
89EXC.VAT
DUAL £
.98 Ideal for DIY, hobby & semi-professional use
VOLTAGE
110
&
£
FROM ONLY
79EXC.VAT
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DEVIL
7003
£
107INC.VAT
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VOLT PROPANE
IN STOCK
FROM £226.80
£
95INC.VAT
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GAS FIRED
MAX EXC. INC.
MODEL OUTPUT KW VAT VAT
Little Devil II 10.3 £79.98 £95.98 DEVIL 6003
Devil 700 15 £99.98 £119.98 MODELVOLTAGE HEAT EXC.VAT INC.VAT
Devil 900 24.9 £139.98 £167.98 OUTPUT KW
Devil 1600 36.6 £169.98 £203.98 DEVIL 6003 230V 1.5-3 £49.98 £59.98
Devil 2100 49.8 £259.00 £310.80 DEVIL 7003 230V 3 £59.98 £71.98
Devil 4000 131 £429.00 £514.80 DEVIL 6005 400V 2.5-5 £69.98 £83.98
DEVIL 7005 400V 5 £84.99 £101.99
CAR CREEPERS DEVIL 6009 400V 4.5-9 £109.00 £130.80 • 2HP
DEVIL 6015 400V 5-10-15 £169.00 £202.80
• Oil resistant vinyl covered padded DEVIL 7015 400V NEW • 7cfm
15 £199.98 £239.98
backs & headrests • Swivel castors • 24 litre
for easy manoeuvrability
FROM ONLY FROM ONLY
£
24EX.VAT
.99
JETSTAR £
£
59EX.VAT
.98
£
29INC.VAT PRESSURE 71INC.VAT
.99 .98
MODEL DESCRIPTION EXC.VAT INC.VAT WASHERS

CMC36 Car creeper £24.99 £29.99 Makes easy work for
CMC40 With tool storage £39.98 £47.98 washing vehicles,
CMC45 With adjustable headrest£29.98 £35.98 patios,
CMC50 Folding car creeper £49.98 £59.98 stonework, etc. 210 Bar
JET7500, 8500 3045 psi
9500 include JET9500 • 3HP
DRILL PRESSES
hose reel • 14.5cfm 16/1010
MODEL MOTOR MAX. PRESSURE EXC.VAT IN • 100 litre
Range of precision JS1850 1400W 1523psi £59.98 £7
bench & floor presses JS1950 1600W 2030psi £89.98 £10 TIGER 16/510
for enthusiast, * ’V’ Twin Pump
Jet 7500 1600W 2030psi £124.99 £14
engineering & Jet8500 2100W 2610psi £149.98 £17 MODEL MOTOR CFM TANK EXC.VAT INC.VAT
industrial Jet9500 2400W 3045psi £179.98 £21 8/260 NEW 2HP 7.5 24ltr £89.98 £107.98
CDP152B 7/250 2 HP 7 24ltr £94.99 £113.99
applications
• 3HP 11/260 NEW 2.5HP 9.5 24ltr £109.98 £131.98
BEST
8/550 NEW 2HP 7.5 50ltr £119.98 £143.98
FROM ONLY B = Bench
DIESEL • 14.5cfm • 50 litre 11/550 NEW 2.5HP 9.5 50ltr £139.98 £167.98
£
69EXC.VAT
.98 mounted
F = Floor HOT SELLER 16/510* 3 HP 14.5 50ltr £209.00 £250.80
£
83INC.VAT
.98
standing WASHER
16/1010* 3 HP 14.5 100ltr £259.98 £311.98
MOTOR (W) EXC. INC. HARRY

MODEL SPEEDS VAT VAT HOTWASH AIR INDUSTRIAL Ideal for industrial & commercial use, including:
garages, factories, workshops, farms, etc.
CDP5EB 350 / 5 £69.98 £83.98 Ideal for effective
CDP102B 350 / 5 £79.98 £95.98 cleaning of vehicles
CDP152B
CDP202B
450 / 12 £149.98 £179.98
450 / 16 £189.00 £226.80
with a hot jet of
up to 80°C
XEV16/100 BEST AIR
CDP10B 370 / 12 £199.98 £239.98 SELLER MODEL
DISP. MOTOR AIR EXC.
cfm (HP) RECEIVER VAT
INC
.VAT
CDP352F 550 / 16 £229.00 £274.80 NEW XEV11/100(OL)†* 9 2 100ltr £399.00 £478.80
CDP452B 550 / 16 £239.00 £286.80
CDP502F 1100 / 12 £549.00 £658.80 • 3HP XEV16/100†* 14 3 100ltr £425.00 £510.00
145 Bar • 14cfm • 100 litre XEV16/150†* 14
XEV16/200(OL)†* 14
3 150ltr £459.00 £550.80
3 200ltr £525.00 £630.00
GRINDERS 2103 psi PRICE CUT
& STANDS
£
499EXC.VAT .00 XEV16/150(400V)†14
XE18/200 (OL)* 18
3 150ltr £535.00 £642.00
4 200ltr £579.00 £694.80
INC. CONTAINER AMAZING
£
598 .80 FROM ONLY
399EXC.VAT
Stands come 6" & 8" INC.VAT
£ .00 XET19/200 (OL)* 18 4 200ltr £619.00 £742.80
complete with AVAILABLE FOR DETERGENT LOW PRICE! WAS £658.80 inc.VAT XEV26/200† 23 5.5 200ltr £739.00 £886.80
478INC.VAT
bolt mountings WITH LIGHT £ .80 XE37/270 (OL)* 36 2x 4 270ltr £1169.00 £1402.80
and feet †V-Twin *230V
anchor holes STANDS FROM ONLY SSC1000G
£47.98 INC.VAT
STRUT SPRING
AIR TOOLS OVER 100 TOOLS IN STOCK
FROM ONLY
£
32EX.VAT
.99
COMPRESSOR
£
39INC.VAT
.59
Foot operated
# With hydraulic powered
sanding belt Adjustable for
*8" whetstone springs up to 400m
dia. & 520mm in FROM ONLY CAT164
& 6" drystone
length Adjustable £
18EXC.VAT
.99
22INC.VAT
spring retainers £ .79
MODEL DUTY WHEEL Inc. spring CAT160
DIA. EXC.VAT INC.VAT retaining guard
CBG6RP DIY 150mm £32.99 £39.59
ALSO
CBG6RZ PRO 150mm £42.99 £51.59
CAT131
CBG6RSC
CBG6SB#
HD 150mm £54.99 £65.99
PRO 150mm £56.99 £68.39
£
129EXC.VAT
.99
SE
CBG6RWC HD 150mm £59.98 £71.98
£
155INC.VAT
.99
PGF14 CAT127
& AIR FITTINGS
CBG8W* (wet) HD 150/200mm £58.99 £70.79 IN STOCK
VISIT YOUR LOCAL SUPERSTORE OPEN MON-FRI 8.30-6.00,

SAT 8.30-5.30, SUN 10.00-4.00
5 EASY WAYS TO BUY...
BARNSLEY Pontefract Rd, Barnsley, S71 1EZ 01226 732297 EXETER 16 Trusham Rd. EX2 8QG 01392 256 744 NORWICH 282a Heigham St. NR2 4LZ 01603 766402 SUPERSTORES
B’HAM GREAT BARR 4 Birmingham Rd.
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0121 358 7977
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GLASGOW 280 Gt Western Rd. G4 9EJ
0191 493 2520
0141 332 9231
NOTTINGHAM 211 Lower Parliament St. 0115 956 1811 NATIONWIDE
PETERBOROUGH 417 Lincoln Rd. Millfield 01733 311770
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BRADFORD 105-107 Manningham Lane. BD1 3BN 01274 390962 GRIMSBY ELLIS WAY, DN32 9BD 01472 354435
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01273 915999
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0208 518 4286
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0113 231 0400
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CARLISLE 85 London Rd. CA1 2LG 01228 591666 LINCOLN Unit 5. The Pelham Centre. LN5 8HG 01522 543 036 SOUTHAMPTON 516-518 Portswood Rd. 023 8055 7788 0115 956 5555
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COLCHESTER 4 North Station Rd. CO1 1RE 01206 762831 LONDON 6 Kendal Parade, Edmonton N18 020 8803 0861 SUNDERLAND 13-15 Ryhope Rd. Grangetown 0191 510 8773
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024 7622 4227
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DEAL (KENT) 182-186 High St. CT14 6BQ 01304 373 434 MANCHESTER ALTRINCHAM 71 Manchester Rd. Altrincham 0161 9412 666 TWICKENHAM 83-85 Heath Rd.TW1 4AW 020 8892 9117
DERBY Derwent St. DE1 2ED 01332 290 931 MANCHESTER CENTRAL 209 Bury New Road M8 8DU 0161 241 1851 WARRINGTON Unit 3, Hawley’s Trade Pk.
WIGAN 2 Harrison Street, WN5 9AU
01925 630 937
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01302 245 999
01382 225 140
MANCHESTER OPENSHAW Unit 5, Tower Mill, Ashton Old Rd 0161 223 8376
MANSFIELD 169 Chesterfield Rd. South 01623 622160 WOLVERHAMPTON Parkfield Rd. Bilston 01902 494186 AT STORES TODAY
EDINBURGH 163-171 Piersfield Terrace 0131 659 5919 MIDDLESBROUGH Mandale Triangle, Thornaby 01642 677881 WORCESTER 48a Upper Tything. WR1 1JZ 01905 723451
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o n d a C iv i c 1 .8
Project H
Fixing aircon
and a broken ✓
✓
✓
REPAIR FAULTY
AIR-CONDITIONING
REPLACE BROKEN
GLOVEBOX
PART 2
NOV 19
PART 2
NOV 19
glovebox
REMOVE PART 2
ROOF BARS NOV 19
✖ ENGINE SERVICE
✖ REPAIR PASSENGER MIRROR
✖ REPAIR BUMPER DAMAGE
PART TWO: Andrew Everett replaces ✖ RENOVATE ALLOY WHEELS
the smashed glovebox and sorts out the ✖ CHECK AND OVERHAUL BRAKES
✖ RECTIFY LIGHT BODY SCRATCHES
non-functioning air-conditioning. PLUS ANYTHING ELSE THAT ARISES OVER THE
FOLLOWING MONTHS
W
hen we discovered the air- The digital climate display panel
conditioning in our Civic showed that the aircon was switched on,
wasn’t working we envisioned but the compressor didn’t kick in and traced a tiny leak in the condenser, most
hours spent tracing electrical no cold air was being emitted from the likely caused by a small stone.
faults in the control panel or fixing a vents. Could it need regassing? We evacuated the system, drawing
seized compressor. The actual cause We took it to an aircon specialist that all the R134a back into the recharging
was far simpler than that – a hole in the hooked up their recharging machine, machine, before ordering a new
condenser, most likely caused by a stone. which does both R134a (which our condenser from our sponsors, GSF Car
We also replaced the damaged glovebox Civic uses) and 1234YF gas. A vacuum Parts. These usually retail at about £180,
lid and removed the roof bars – the latter operation was carried out to remove any but an online discount offer brought the
had been attached for years and made a condensation and moisture that could price down to just £75.
whistling noise when travelling at speed. have frozen and blocked the system, as
They also reduce fuel economy, so we’ll well as reveal if there were any leaks. Our
store them away until we need them. car was showing a leak, albeit a very small Owner’s manual
one that could well be the compressor Don’t you hate it when there is no
seal which, once exposed to the R134a, owner’s manual with a car? Trying to
Fault-finding would quickly reseal after a dry spell. The set up the bass and treble on the Civic’s
The first step in our aircon fault-finding system was recharged with the full 450 stereo system without one is impossible!
session was to check if the drivebelt was grammes it requires and, once switched For £15, we bought a complete handbook
attached. It was. Next, we investigated on, ice-cold air blasted from the vents. pack – the handbook, various booklets
if the compressor had seized. It hadn’t. Some dye had been added and we quickly and a leather folder – on eBay.
AIRCON CONDENSER RENEWAL
The high and low system connectors

2 were fitted – the system runs at up to
57psi on the high side and 30psi on the low
Here is our Civic at its first attempt at an aircon recharge. At this stage, a visual check side. Be aware that aircon gas is toxic and
1 could find nothing wrong and the condenser – the most common cause of failure due to can cause blindness if it gets in your eyes, so
its location at the front of the car – looked OK. We then performed a vacuum check. wear goggles when undoing connectors.
WWW.GSFCARPARTS.COM 0121 626 7971

CM project 2006 Honda Civic 1.8 i-VTEC
in association with
BUY ONLINE OR CALL US ON

0121 626 7971
Sure enough, our system has a leak, but it might just be a dry seal on the compressor if
3 it’s been inactive for a while. We try regassing the system to see it resolves the problem.
The system does work after regassing – the compressor The system is drained down again, removing the R134a so it’s
4 and aircon fan both operate as they should and cold air comes 5 safe to work on. Having received a new condenser from GSF Car
from the vents. However, a quick inspection of the various joints Parts, the first job is to remove the various plastic popper clips and
and components reveals a small leak from the condenser. detach the plastic slam panel cover trim.
 …it’s been damaged.

7 There are four prongs that
slide into rubber grommets and
the bottom ones are broken,
leaving the stubs behind. We used
rapid-drying Araldite to glue them
back on, allowing them to cure
while we worked on the condenser.
Next, we detach the plastic nosecone  We undid the two connectors where the
6 trim piece. At the top there are a 8 pipes meet the aircon condenser. These
couple of 10mm securing bolts, though are held by 10mm bolts and, once off, we sprayed
we noticed the one on the driver’s side penetrating fluid into the joint and very carefully
had sheared off. We could also do with a eased out the connectors. They have rubber
complete new trim piece because… O-rings that will leak if damaged.

Our top connector bolt sheared off in the condenser, but it The condenser is held in place by grommets top and bottom,
9 wasn’t a problem as we were binning it anyway. We sourced 10 with the condenser and the radiator secured by this top bracket.
another 10mm bolt of the same length and thread as the original, Remove the two 10mm securing bolts and it will come away, leaving the
then cleaned out the bolt hole in the connector. condenser almost free to be lifted up and out of the car, however…
 …the bonnet release catch is in the way and prevents the

11 condenser from being lifted out. There are only three 10mm bolts
securing it to the slam panel. With those out, it’s left hanging on the
bonnet release cable and you can feed the condenser past it.
You can remove a Civic condenser in about 20 minutes – it’s

12 that simple. By comparison, the same job is a nightmare on
a Volkswagen Golf MkV.
 Here is our new

13 condenser. It’s made by
AVA Cooling and is an exact
copy of the Honda original.
Our Civic is a Swindon-built
car, so the original part would
probably be British-made.
 There are rubber

14 grommets to be
swapped over before the new
unit can be fitted. The lower
two locate into holes in the
front radiator crossmember.
Before fitting, smear some red
rubber grease into the holes
where the connectors fit, so
that the O-rings slide in easily.

Now it was time to return to the aircon regassing machine.

16 This vacuumed the system again and found zero leaks. After
15 Also put a touch of red rubber grease onto the O-rings and
gently fit them. We used the 10mm securing bolts to draw that, the correct 450 grammes of R134a was added and, once up and
them in gradually. Don’t go mad with grease as you don’t want it in running and with the system blowing ice-cold air, we checked every
the system. Reassemble the rest of the components. connector for signs of leakage. All good!
GLOVEBOX REPAIR 2  The glovebox lid is all that needs

replacing as the actual glovebox body
is fine. We detached the old lid by pressing
down on these curved plastic arms. Note that
the one on the left-hand side nearest the door
has a tension strap.
The outer skin of the glovebox on our

1 Civic had broken away from the main
lid. We used Araldite as a temporary repair,
but we needed a good secondhand glovebox
We unclipped the lid from the glovebox
to do the job properly. Our car has factory
sat-nav so the glovebox is different from
3 – it has just snap-fit hinges, as shown.
other models, although the lid is the same. With those undone, the glovebox lid pulls away.
4 This is the tension strap that hooks onto the left-hand hinge.
When you unhook this from the glovebox hinge, slide a
5 Our hoop had already come unhooked so we detached the
glovebox undertray – it just clips in place and is easily refitted.
screwdriver or pencil through the hoop so that it doesn’t retract through With that out of the way, it’s fiddly but not impossible to find the hoop
the hole, which would mean taking out the whole glovebox assembly. and feed it back through the hole ready to be hooked onto the hinge.

 This is the
6 tension strap PROJECT COSTS
retractor, a device that
gathers up the strap when PURCHASE £1142.00
the glovebox is closed OF CAR
and acts as a damper.
NEXT MONTH
We replace the brake
discs and pads, as
well as refresh the
brake fluid.
PARTS COSTS
Aircon condenser £186.89
Aircon recharge £60.00
Secondhand glovebox £12.00
Owners’ manual pack £15.00
6  A replacement
glovebox cost us Roof rail key £7.50
£12 from a breakers Roof rail strips £10.00
– the same price as a TOTAL £1433.19
glovebox lid on its own
– and we had a choice
from about 10 scrapped
Civics. It’s a remarkably USEFUL CONTACTS
simple yet effective GSF Car Parts 0121 626 7981
design, but it’s a shame gsfcarparts.com
t isn’t lockable.
Roof bar key
http://bit.ly/2ojLhGg
ROOF BAR REMOVAL
The roof bar system is complex. To start, Once the cover was off, we slackened You can leave the mounting pods in
1 a key is needed to remove the outer cover 2 the Allen bolts that secure the roof 3 place, but then the retaining bolts
in order to access the Allen bolts securing it bars and sprayed some penetrating fluid would rust to oblivion. So we removed them
to the mounting pods. With no key present, into the threads and left it for five minutes. by slackening them and once again spraying
the lock number was found and a new Honda Following that, they came out very easily, penetrating fluid into the threads. We will
key cut from an internet-sourced company. releasing the roof bars. use copper grease on refitting.
4 With the mounting pods removed, we found dirt and a tide-mark

on the paint. To sort this out we’ll need to use a bit of
5 We got a pair of standard Civic roof rail trims from the breakers
to replace the existing ones, which will not stay in place once
2000-grit wet-and-dry and some soapy water to flat out any ridges, the mounting pods had been removed. These use fragile plastic clips
before polishing it back with a mop and cutting compound. that we managed to remove intact, but proved fiddly to fit.

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Product Test
Rob Hawkins puts products through their paces
BATTERY-OPERATED
COMPACT IMPACT
DRIVERS & RATCHETS
Can a compact impact
driver or ratchet save
time undoing nuts and
bolts? Rob Hawkins
tests six products
over several months
to find the answer.
P
ower tools can be much less time-
consuming than using spanners
and traditional socket ratchet
drivers. When it comes to small
fittings that aren’t particularly tight, you
don’t need an electric or air-fed high-
torque impact driver that could shear a
bolt head or strip a thread with one slip
of your trigger finger.
There are a number of power tools loosened or tightened. A non-impact of 3/8 in impact sockets is quite limited
that aren’t so aggressive and are small socket (eg, chrome vanadium sockets) when compared to 1/2 in impact sockets.
enough to fit into tight spaces. We may split or even shatter and risk injury. As you’ll see from our findings, there
collected an assortment of them from Even a low-torque impact driver and were some clear winners, but if you
manufacturers including Draper, Sealey ratchet poses a risk of damaging a socket. read through our comments you’ll find
and Milwaukee, and put them to the test All of the equipment we tested was that some of the tools are better suited
over several months. equipped with a 3/8 in square-end for to specific jobs, so your own choice of
Impact sockets and bits should be used fitting sockets. Most impact sockets are winner may be different to ours.
with impact tools in order to withstand for 1/2 in drives, so we used Blackline And do shop around for price deals and
the force that’s being applied, especially adaptors from Rally Design and also special offers which can be substantially
the repeated action when a fitting is being sourced some 3/8 in sockets. The choice lower than the official RRP.
The test procedure

 We considered several methods of testing the six battery-operated
impact drivers and ratchets we selected. For instance, we could have
compared their accuracy for tightening a nut and bolt to their maximum-
claimed torque setting, but we realised this wasn’t the point of buying such
equipment. Instead, we used the tools for several months to see which
ones were easiest to operate, could get into tight spots and were reliable.
We handed them all over to a trusted garage, MJ Motors, whose
mechanics were happy to compare and contrast the tools. After several
weeks, we realised the tools had become quite grimy with dirt and grease,
so we tried to clean them, which helped us evaluate their exterior coatings
and establish which tools will still look good after prolonged use. General
wear and tear is, however, impossible to compare unless each piece of
equipment is used for the same tasks and the same length of time.

Product Test CORDLESS COMPACT IMPACT DRIVERS & RATCHETS
SEALEY 12V IMPACT WRENCH KIT

Part number: CP1204KIT
Price: From £88 including UK delivery SCORE
sealey.co.uk 9/10
 Sharing the same batteries and charger as
Sealey’s entry-level impact ratchet (part number CP1202KIT 2019
– see page 38), should you wish to buy this impact wrench/
driver on its own, it costs from £41.90 including UK delivery. It’s powered
by a 12V 1.5Ah lithium-ion battery, which can be recharged in one hour.
This impact driver has a 3/8 in square drive, so it can be fitted with a
number of impact sockets. Producing a maximum of 80Nm of torque,
we found this to be more than adequate for undoing small fittings and,
due to the compact size of the driver, it can be squeezed into some
tight spots. There’s a variable speed trigger and the usual lock function
to prevent the impact wrench being accidentally
operated. Unlike the impact ratchets we
tested, the impact drivers don’t provide
as much kickback when they attempt to
undo a fastening that’s too tight or when
they fully tighten a nut or bolt, because
the motor absorbs more of the impact.
With only two impact drivers/wrenches
to test, and both of them being from Sealey,
the choice of which one is best is quite
straightforward. This cheaper tool is suited
for lighter jobs and occasional use, whereas
the Premier driver (see page 39) can cope with
bigger jobs. Despite our professional test mechanics favouring
the Premier brand for daily use, this driver at a third of the price is more suited for the
average DIYer, unless you regularly tackle bigger jobs. And being the most compact tool
on test, it ticks more boxes as an all-round battery-operated impact tool.
MILWAUKEE M12 IR-201B

12V IMPACT RATCHET SCORE
Part number: 433FT (Screwfix) 8/10
Price: £179.99 screwfix.com
 Mechanic Dan Smith at MJ Motors already uses
one of these battery-powered impact ratchets
and, after trying all of the other tools, he still
favoured the Milwaukee. We sourced ours through
Screwfix which, at the time of writing, sells it with
a single 2.0Ah lithium-ion battery, a charger and a
soft carrycase, plus a three-year guarantee. RECOMMENDED
The compact driver is only powerful enough to tighten a
fastening up to 47Nm, so we struggled to undo stubborn brake
PRODUCT 2019
caliper slider bolts, but we could use it like a manual ratchet
driver and undo the fastening, before finishing off with battery-
powered assistance. Even at a mere 47Nm, there was quite a
kickback from the ratchet when it locked and couldn’t undo or
tighten a fastening any further. However, this is typical of the
battery-powered ratchet drivers we tested, due to their design.
A metal paddle switch provides variable control of the trigger
when operating, and illumination from an LED helps to highlight
the work area and remains lit after releasing the trigger. Plus,
there is a bank of LEDs on the body of the driver to show the
state of charge of the battery. A recharge of the single battery
takes up to 40 minutes, but Screwfix sells spare batteries for
£29.99 each (product number 577FJ).
After several weeks of use, this impact ratchet was looking well
and truly filthy, so we carefully and gently cleaned it using a soap-
soaked pan scourer. We had to take care not let any liquid drip
through the vents on the body, which could cause a short circuit,
but afterwards the impact ratchet looked as good as new.

DRAPER STORM FORCE 10.8V

CORDLESS RATCHET
Ratchet (part number 17135) £47.94 SCORE
Battery (part number 16254) £16.74 8/10
Charger (part number 16255) £15
drapertools.com 2019
 Draper’s Storm Force range of 10.8V cordless power tools all
use the same batteries and include a combination drill, ¼in impact
driver, reciprocating saw and this impact ratchet. Replacement
10.8V 1.25Ah lithium-ion batteries can be bought separately for less
than £17 each. A flat battery should take one hour to recharge.
This cordless ratchet has a 3/8 in square drive, making it suitable
for fitting impact sockets. There’s also an LED light to help illuminate
the work area. It’s approximately the same size as the Milwaukee M12 IR-201B and
very similar in design to the Sealey ratchet, right down to the shape of the metal
trigger and the three lights on the body to indicate the state of the battery life.
Draper’s impact ratchet has a maximum torque of 45Nm, which is the same as
the equivalent Sealey (below) and 2Nm less than the Milwaukee. However, we’ve
concluded that a high-torque value isn’t required for most situations where small
fittings are being tightened and could potentially be overtightened. If a fitting
cannot be undone because the impact ratchet cannot produce enough torque,
then it can be used in the same way as a manual ratchet driver.
As we discovered with all impact ratchets, once they lock up when
attempting to tighten or loosen a fitting, this provides some kickback
in the body, which can be transferred to your wrist.
This impact ratchet worked just as effectively as the one from
Sealey and the prices for the individual products (body, battery and
battery charger) are similar. However, if you buy the equivalent Draper
kit (two batteries, charger and body), it works out more expensive
going by RRP, but it’s worthwhile shopping around for deals.
SEALEY 12V IMPACT RATCHET KIT

Part number: CP1202KIT
Price: From £88 including UK delivery SCORE
sealey.co.uk 8/10
 With the same size and design of body and battery
as Draper’s Storm Force, Sealey’s impact ratchet has a lithium-ion
12V 1.5Ah battery instead of Draper’s 10.8V. Supplied as a kit with a 2019
canvas bag, there are two batteries and a charger, which promises a
recharge time of one hour. There’s a battery status indicator on the charger,
as well as three lights on the body of the ratchet to show the charge status.
The same batteries can also be used with Sealey’s impact driver, so if all
you need is this impact ratchet (part number CP1202), then its retail price
is currently £44.65 including UK delivery. Furthermore, additional 12V 1.5Ah
lithium-ion batteries (part number CP1200BP) for both models cost around
£16 including UK delivery.
The 3/8 in square drive on the end
of the impact ratchet enables a wide
range of mid-sized impact sockets to be fitted. Just like all the impact ratchets we’re
testing, the Sealey tool can be used as a manual ratchet driver if required, which is
safer when attempting to undo a stubborn nut and bolt – all the impact ratchets
kick back a little when they cannot undo a fastening. With a maximum
torque of 45Nm (the same as the Draper and 2Nm less than the
Milwaukee), we found this to be sufficient for undoing and
tightening the majority of small fittings.
If you want a budget-priced impact ratchet,
then it’s a tough choice between
this one and Draper’s
Storm Force. Shopping
around for deals
may help
you decide.

Sealey Premier 14.4V imPact driVer

Part number: CP6001
Price: From £199 sealey.co.uk SCORE
 Sealey’s Premier range of impact drivers and
ratchets are a step above the entry-level models in
7/10
terms of features, performance and price. For the extra
money, you get a couple of 14.4V 2.0Ah lithium-ion batteries with
a 40-minute recharge time, plus a two-year warranty (one-year for
the 12V impact ratchet and driver). However, the biggest selling
point has got to be its maximum torque, which is a whopping
140Nm – that’s enough to slacken and tighten most wheel nuts!
And there’s no kickback from the driver when you tighten a fitting
to this amount or can’t undo something.
Of all the impact
drivers on test, this
was the favourite with
the mechanics and
apprentices at MJ
Motors because it was
sufficiently compact to
squeeze into tight spots and offered a greater range of torque. Mechanic Mike Smith
said this one feels better to handle and seems to be well-balanced. Our only reservation
concerns overtightening, but with a variable speed trigger you can control this. However, we
concluded that if you don’t need the extra torque, the cheaper 12V driver is just as useful.
After several months of use we discovered that sockets were often difficult to remove from
the 3/8 in square end of the driver, suggesting the ball bearing that helps to keep a socket
securely fitted may have become clogged with dirt.
At £199 for the entire kit, there are cheaper options, especially if you already have a charger
and a battery. The body only costs from £87 and a battery (part number CP60BP) costs £60.44.
Unfortunately, even with these prices broken down, there are a lot of cheaper alternatives in
the impact driver market, but they are bulkier and most of them have a ½in square end.
Sealey Premier 14.4V imPact ratchet

Part number: CP6002
Price: From £275 sealey.co.uk SCORE
 On paper, Sealey’s top-of-the-range impact ratchet
seems impressive, with power supplied by a 14.4V 2.0Ah
6/10
lithium-ion battery (there’s a spare included) that can
be recharged in 40 minutes. This impact ratchet offers the highest
maximum torque of all the ratchets we’re testing at 68Nm.
Sadly, some of our testers found it too bulky to squeeze into tight
spots. It’s bigger than the other impact ratchets and the weight of the
battery unbalances it, making it awkward to use. It offers all the great
features of the impact ratchets we tested: a light for illumination, a
variable speed trigger (with lockout) and a 3/8 in square drive, but its
bulky size lets it down. You could argue that’s the price you pay for a
ALL PRICES WERE CORRECT AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRESS
more powerful battery that produces more torque and possibly lasts
longer, so if you can put up
with the larger size, it’s worth considering.
The battery can also be used with Sealey’s Premier impact
driver, so if you intend to buy the pair, you’ll only need to
buy the impact ratchet itself (part number CP6012)
from £128.63. A spare battery (part number
CP60BP) costs £60.44.
After several weeks of use, the body of
the Sealey unit had not only become
dirty, but some of the grey paint
had worn off. This may have
been our fault through use and
abuse, but it possibly highlights
the fact that the other tools,
with their plastic and rubber
coatings, are more durable.

MINI R50 1.6
Rob Hawkins
travels to Mad4Mini
to renew the clutch
on editor Martyn
Knowles’s 2005
MINI One Seven.
T
he work involved in renewing
the clutch on a MINI is time
consuming because so many
parts need to be removed but, in
the long run, this makes it much easier to
manoeuvre the gearbox in and out from
underneath. Parts such as the engine bed
(aka the subframe) need to be moved out PARTS PRICES
of the way. This holds the steering rack, Mad4Mini 0113 276 1636
so it also has to be detached. However, mad4mini.co.uk
with all the extra space, there’s no need Clutch renewal (including labour,
to fully remove the driveshafts, just Our car has the five-speed Getrag parts and VAT) from £395.00
extract them from the gearbox. gearbox, which replaced the earlier
You need to set aside at least six hours Midland unit. The following steps GSF Car Parts 0121 626 7971
to tackle a MINI R50 (hatchback), R52 show how Mad4Mini tackle this job, gsfcarparts.com
(convertible) or R53 (Cooper S) clutch. and they’ve learnt through experience Valeo clutch kit £93.56
FTE clutch slave cylinder £53.09
USEFUL TOOLS
Check online for discounts & special offers
 Allen key: 8mm  Two-post ramp  Torx bits/sockets: T30 E8

where the shortcuts exist and when
(if available)  Transmission jack/
precautionary steps need to be taken.
 Balljoint splitter or lever
 Sockets/spanners: axle stands They claim to be able to remove a
 Breaker bar 8-19mm gearbox in under 20 minutes if two
 Hammer
 Pry bar  Stepladders  Emery paper people are working with power tools,
 Screwdrivers  Torque wrench  Brake cleaner but we slowed them down with
photographs and tea breaks.
CLUTCH KIT RENEWAL
George at Mad4Mini started the clutch The two plugs connected to the ECU Before the battery box was taken out,
1 renewal by removing the vehicle’s 2 (BMW call it the digital motor electronics 3 the air filter housing was detached in
12V battery. There are a couple of 10mm or DME for short) were disconnected to allow order to create more space; this is secured
terminals to undo and release, then there the plugs and their wiring to remain inside by two 10mm bolts. Its induction pipework
should be a clamp over the top of the the engine bay, but the DME will be removed also had to be disconnected by undoing two
battery, but it was missing on our vehicle. in Step 4 along with the battery box. quick-release clips.

Clutch Clinic 2005 MINI R50 1.6
 The battery box is secured
4 by three 10mm bolts.
Mad4Mini warned us that these
can be corroded, but we were lucky
on this occasion. We could now
see the top of the gearbox and, in
particular, the gear linkage, which
needs to be disconnected.
 There’s a small sensor

5 on the side of the gearbox
(facing the front of the engine bay
when viewed from above), which
is for reverse gear and activating
the reversing lights. This must be
detached to allow the gearbox to
be dropped down.
 There are two gear

6 linkage cables attached to
the top of the gearbox. George
explained that there’s a three-
stage process to release them and
problems can easily arise. First, he
used a long pry bar to separate the
balljoint end of each cable.
 After detaching the

7 ends of the cables, George
checked whether the mechanism
they are attached to on the top
of the gearbox had bent, which
can happen when separating the
cables, resulting in gear selection
problems. Using a pry bar, he bent
the front attachment back to its
original shape.
 The final stage in

8 disconnecting the
gearchange cables is to extract
them from the U-shaped mounting
brackets on the top of the gearbox
(circled). There’s a fragile-looking
spring clip to release by pinching
its ends together before each
cable can be prised out.
 Two of the upper 15mm

9 bellhousing bolts were fully
undone and the frontmost upper
bolt was only slackened at this
stage. There are plenty more bolts
and mounts holding the gearbox
in position for the moment, but
this was a good opportunity to
undo three of them.
 At the back of the

10 engine bay, the power
steering fluid reservoir’s 10mm
clamp was undone to allow the
reservoir to be released and
pushed down into the back of the
engine bay. It will be extracted
along with the steering rack and
engine bed (aka the subframe).
 Down at the offside back
11 of the engine bay, the end of
the steering column was separated
from the steering rack by undoing
a 13mm nut and bolt, then prising
the column and rack apart. This
is important as it enables the
steering rack to be taken out along
with the engine bed.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics Car Mechanics

November 2019 41
CLUTCH KIT RENEWAL continued

 Removal of the
12 engine bed requires the
front bumper to be detached.
This is secured by two Torx T30
bolts, three 10mm bolts, two
8mm bolts and some crosshead
screws that secure the
wheelarch trim to the bumper.
Wiring for the indicators/side-
lights also had to be undone.
 Next, the front crash
13 beam was removed. This
is secured to the front chassis
legs and subframe with eight
nuts and two bolts, all with
13mm heads.
 We could now see

14 the front legs of the
engine bed, where a 10mm
bolt on each end secures the
wheelarch liner and fog-light
surround, so these were
undone to separate them.
 Before the
15 engine bed could be
removed, several suspension
components were undone and
detached, starting with the
lower arm outer balljoints,
secured by 18mm nuts.
George explained that if a
balljoint has been replaced, it
usually has a 19mm nut.
 After separating
16 the lower arm outer
balljoints by hitting the body
of the balljoint with a hammer,
we then undid the 15mm nuts
for the steering track rod ends,
separating them as well.
 When we tried to
17 undo the 16mm nuts for
the anti-roll bar droplinks, their
threads spun. Luckily, there
are some flats on the thread,
which can be gripped with a
17mm open-ended spanner.
 There’s a lower
18 engine mount fitted
at the back of the engine,
which was detached by
undoing the single 16mm
bolt shown here (engine side),
leaving the mount attached
to the engine bed.
 The engine bed

19 was supported on a
transmission stand, then all
of its mounting bolts were
undone, starting with six
16mm bolts at the rear. These
are usually corroded, but can
be undone with a breaker bar
and/or an impact driver.
November 2019
 Moving forwards along
20 the engine bed, another
16mm bolt was undone on each
side, close to the lower arm
inner bush (rearmost). Finally,
an extension bar was required to
undo the 16mm bolt tucked up
into the back of the wheelarch.
George noted that the mounting
bolts are different lengths.
 After detaching two
21 electrical plugs on top of
the power steering pump, we were
ready to remove the engine bed,
supporting it with the transmission
stand while raising the two-post
ramp. The power steering fluid
reservoir remained attached.
 Before the gearbox

22 could be removed, we
drained its oil by undoing the
drain plug with an 8mm Allen key.
The oil seemed to be quite clean
and was collected with other
waste oil for recycling/collecting
at a later date.
 The nearside front
23 driveshaft was extracted
from the gearbox using a pry bar
to help release the spring clip
on the splined end. Keeping the
other end attached to the hub,
the assembly was then swung
around to protect the driveshaft
from being damaged when we
removed the gearbox.
 Before the offside

24 front driveshaft could be
detached, a centre bearing had
to be undone, which is secured
by three 13mm bolts. The offside
driveshaft is easier to extract
from the gearbox as there’s no
spring clip retaining it. It was
suspended out of the way.
 A small flywheel
25 inspection cover is secured
with two 10mm bolts and has to
be taken off to avoid damaging it
when extracting the gearbox. It’s
located below the starter motor
at the back of the engine.
 The starter motor

26 doesn’t need to be
removed, but its 15mm lower
mounting bolt was undone and
extracted, whereas the upper
mounting bolt was undone but
left in its locating dowel. This
helps to keep the starter motor
positioned on the engine block,
making it easier to refit later.
 The hydraulic clutch

27 slave cylinder is secured to
the gearbox with 13mm nuts. By
unhooking its pipe from the top
of the gearbox and suspending
it around to the nearside front
wheelarch, it was out of the way.

November 2019 43
CLUTCH KIT RENEWAL continued

 With the MINI raised to
28 head height on the two-
post ramp, a transmission stand
was positioned underneath the
engine, then George climbed up a
pair of stepladders and undid the
four 13mm bolts for the gearbox
mount inside the engine bay.
 Five lower bellhousing
29 bolts remained, holding
the gearbox to the engine.
While Mad4Mini boss Richard
supported the gearbox, George
undid these bolts. We were
finally ready to extract the
Getrag gearbox.
 With so many
30 components removed
from the underside of the MINI,
there was plenty of space to
manoeuvre the gearbox off the
engine and lift it away. Everyone
at Mad4Mini seems to be able to
do this job blindfolded!
 Six Torx E8 bolts hold

31 the old clutch cover in
position. Upon
removal, we
noticed the clutch
had a 2008 date
stamp and was
ready for the bin.
 Two of the locating

32 dowels fell out of the
flywheel when we removed the old
clutch, so these were tapped back
into position with a hammer. The
face of the flywheel was cleaned
with emery paper, then checked
to ensure it was flat. There was a
little unevenness, possibly caused
by the clutch overheating.
 Inside the gearbox
33 bellhousing, we detached
the nose, which is fitted onto
the input shaft and is where the
release bearing sits; it’s secured
with two Torx E8 bolts. We cleaned
it with emery paper and found it
was good enough to be refitted.
 An engine oil leak from

34 the sump seemed to have
seeped into the bellhousing
and become mixed with clutch
dust, so we sprayed lots of brake
cleaner inside and managed to
wash it all away.
 Mad4Mini have found

35 the clutch arm can crack,
especially on the diesel engine
with a heavier clutch, but our
petrol engine’s clutch arm was
in good condition, so we refitted
it. We then renewed the clutch
release bearing (supplied with the
Valeo clutch kit), adding a smear
of grease supplied in a sachet.
November 2019
 After cleaning the new

36 clutch face with brake cleaner
to remove any anti-corrosion oil, it
was fitted onto the engine along
with the new friction plate, but
without a clutch alignment tool.
Mad4Mini can align the clutch by
sight using a 3/8 in extension bar.
 The Torx E8 clutch cover

37 bolts should be tightened to
20Nm. To prevent the clutch and
flywheel rotating, CM editor Martyn
Knowles wedged a pry bar into the
teeth of the flywheel, holding it
against the locating dowel for the
starter motor.
 We were now ready to refit

38 the gearbox. Ideally, this is a
job for two people, to ensure that the
gearbox is supported. George and
Martyn took less than a minute to
manoeuvre it into position and, once
fitted, a couple of bellhousing bolts
were wound into position, followed by
the upper gearbox mount.
 We had a new clutch slave
39 cylinder to fit, so the hydraulic
pipe to the old one was released
using an 11mm open-ended spanner
and swapped over to the new unit.
George explained it’s important to
ensure the end of the piston sits
inside a round recess on the clutch
arm when fitting it.
 There are several

40 ways to bleed the
clutch. George prefers to
slacken the bleed nipple
and put a finger over it to
effectively lock it, while
someone else pumps the
clutch pedal.
 The driveshafts were

41 refitted, taking care that
the droplinks and brake flexi-hoses
didn’t get rearranged, which can risk
damaging the flexi-hose. The gearbox
was refilled with 75W-90 gear oil.
 The final major

42 component to
refit was the engine
bed, which took a little
manoeuvring while trying
to fit the transmission
stand underneath it.
Once in position, George
recommends reattaching
the lower arms first,
before refitting the
mounting bolts.

November 2019 45
Dealer’s Diary
Our man in the trade, Steven Ward, meets a mate’s
Maserati but is really lusting after a tasty Mondeo.
If you can’t ‘Things looked bad when it was confirmed that the
engine simply wouldn’t turn over, no matter what’
afford it new
 A friend of mine rocked up at my place
at the weekend in a stunning Maserati
Grand Turismo S he’d just bought. This
car looked and sounded terrific, and he’d
got a stunning deal on the car: a Ferrari
for Fiat money (well, sort of ).
He’d paid a third of its retail price of
£70,000. Stick a dateless reg on it and
it’d be indistinguishable from a new one,
which would now cost about £100,000.
He’d bought wisely, as the timing belts
on the Ferrari-derived 4.7 V8 had just
been replaced, as had the single clutch
plate on the robotised manual gearbox.
The service book had a reassuring labour – the V8 surged seamlessly again. the warranty, but my mate had to pay for
number of stamps and, crucially, it came The following week, it broke down the gaskets, battery and auxiliary belts.
with a good warranty. and needed recovering. The engine was To visit me, he’d had to buy two new
However, being a Maserati and being sluggish to turn over and the battery bespoke Pirellis at £600 and the road
a bit of a supercar – and being rarely warning light was on at high revs. A new tax was more than £500. Fuel economy
used, as such cars are – it didn’t take battery was fitted, but this couldn’t turn peaked on the steady cruise north at
long for the first fault to develop. Within the engine over, even when fully charged 22mpg (from 18mpg) on mandatory
days, it had started to misfire under load, after a couple of days. Off to another Super Unleaded. He’d also extended the
but no warning lights were showing. specialist. Things looked bad when it warranty at no small premium, and the
The hunt was on to find a garage with was confirmed that the engine simply time to replace the huge brake pads and
the diagnostic kit and experience to wouldn’t turn over no matter how much cross-drilled discs was looming.
interrogate the electrics. leverage on a power bar or volts was put As I’ve often said in this column
Once such an establishment was through it. The cause was confirmed as a regarding used cars, if you couldn’t
found, the misfire was identified and seized alternator only after the auxiliary afford it new, then you definitely cannot
confirmed as being the spark plugs. No belts had been cut off. The alternator afford it used. Luckily, my mate can and
warranty claim would be forthcoming sits under the beautiful, curvaceous is enjoying the experience enormously
as these are serviceable items. NGK alloy inlet manifolds in the middle of without guilt or worry. A bargain GT
plugs would have to be imported into the the Vee. The £1200+ for supplying and it may have been, but its still needs
country. So, £400 later – half parts, half fitting a new alternator was covered by supercar maintenance.
Mondeo still good

 After fruitlessly trying to find a recent and decent Mondeo
in the auctions for a relative of mine, I gave up and made a
phone call to an old fleet manager friend, Alan. Sure enough,
Alan had one in stock, but it was the only one. This is a far
cry from a decade ago, when I was buying one a fortnight and
always had a choice of at least six. What’s more, a TV road-tester friend of mine hired one over
Alan offered me a real beauty: a 16/16, 2.0 TDCi Econetic, the summer for a fortnight around Italy with his wife and two
Titanium X-pack estate with full leather, finished in Magnetic kids. He couldn’t stop raving about it on his return. I’ve no idea
(ie, dark grey) with 58,000 miles and FFSH. The black leather if his holiday home was clean and well furnished or if he found
was immaculate, the paint shining and there was not a mark on Tuscany as nice as everyone says it is. All he talked about was
the alloys. Top-of-the-tree and, aside from the Vignale, the best the rental Mondeo and how much better they are than any SUV.
spec you’re going to get in the real world. He wanted £10,465 He’s not alone. Another friend of mine – a genuine rep and one
from me. Not cheap compared to the equivalent Insignia, but of the few left – has just returned his Mondeo estate after a hard
what makes this fleet manager worth his weight in fish-heads four years to be replaced by a MINI Countryman hybrid. He
is that his cars are fully prepared for retail and always come misses the Mondeo terribly, but such is fashion and why we no
with a decent amount of diesel in the tank. longer see the Mondeo owning the outside lane of the motorway.

Dealer’s Diary
They think it’s all Rover ‘I haven’t seen that many 600s since
 I hate that punny headline, but its apt. Some 14 years after I worked for European Motor Holdings’
my heart was broken by the closure of MG-Rover, I recently
encountered a load of registered – but unused – Rover cars.
The first was in Bristol. I stumbled across a lovely garage
with a showroom full of pre-reg MG and Rovers, from a 25 right
up to a Rover 75 V8, with a 25 van, 45 saloon and MG TF in
between. These were cars that had been delivered just prior to
the unpleasantness in April 2005 and were registered in 2008
for legislative reasons. Half of the business premises were
taken up with the finest examples of this dead marque, taking
premium position near the entrance. I don’t think I’ve seen that
many Rover 600s since I worked for European Motor Holdings.
However, don’t get the impression this garage was a museum
rather than retail premises. On the forecourt there was a range With that news, I was off to Scotland to view said vehicle.
of nearly-new Jaguar Land Rover products with the usual Parked on the forecourt, it really could have been 2005. The
‘premium’ German stuff scattered around. The place was doing vehicle was immaculate and still had its OE Goodyear tyres,
a good trade and the workshops were busy. It just seems that the manufactured in April 2005, with moulding whiskers still on
proprietor has a soft-spot for Rover products, like many of us. It the sidewall showing its lack of use. I dearly wanted it, but what
really brought a tear to my glass eye. would you do with it – or, indeed, any of these cars?
A short time later, a friend and proprietor of a Mitsubishi The conundrum is this: do you take these cars and continue to
garage called me out of the blue. He’d taken in a Rover 25 as a cherish them as monuments to West Midlands engineering or
part-exchange. Again, this dealer was a Rover man until the do you use them as they were intended? And if you did use these
bitter end. This particular Rover 25 was one of the very last cars, their unique selling proposition and value would be gone
made, a five-door 1.4 petrol with the Ford manual gearbox for good. And how would you value them? Both establishments
and finished in silver. The reason he was calling me was that were advertising these cars for their retail value back in 2005,
he’d sold it as a special order back in the day and it had sat in a but it’s a moot point whether that was a bargain or an outrage.
heated garage ever since. The mileage was under 1000. It’s a tricky one and I don’t have the answer, just the desire.
TOP TIP
Gone but ‘Their residuals are low At present, residuals
not entirely simply because nobody of electric vehicles

seem to be stronger
than they ever have
knows about them’
forgotten been. If you’re not
sold on full electric or not happy with it, now
 I promise you I’m not going to make Canley namesake, I doubt you can wear is the time to consider moving it on.
a habit of recommending VAG products, a pork pie hat in the SEAT version, even
but bear with me... without a sunroof, but such dimensions personally. They are automotive gravy,
The Skoda Rapid and SEAT Toledo are a boon in tight car parks. but that’s good as generally it’s only the
twins are now obsolete and gone from If you wanted to avoid diesel (and troublesome cars that stick in your mind.
new car sales. Their death has gone I wouldn’t blame you) then the run-out Their residuals are low because nobody
without mention. They caught nobody’s petrols were a 1.0-litre three-cylinder knows about them, not because they are
imagination when launched and, as unit which is not as bad as it sounds. a tragic product or woefully unreliable.
such, are worth investigating as a used These are the real bargains of the range. For that reason, and the fact that
buy. This recommendation came from From my time working in a Skoda garage my neighbour has two of them (one
my local minicab firm – they talk cars and, prior to that, in a multi-franchise for personal use, one for taxiing), I’m
incessantly when I’m in with them. Now site with SEAT, I cannot recall these cars recommending them too.
I was sceptical, as the 1.6 diesel was one
of the major talking points during the
so-called Dieselgate scandal (the EGR
valves literally being a sticking point).
However, there are quite a few of them
on this taxi fleet and they report that
they have been terrifically reliable and
very economical to run – 200,000 miles
without issue is quite common, I’m
assured. They also swear they have never
had to change a DPF. I believe the cab
firm because, like most of us, they like
good a moan, but not in this case.
They are, I will admit, handily sized,
being close in proportion to the old
Triumph Toledo, both narrower and
shorter than the class norm. Unlike its

r Letters
Your letters should
be addressed to
Martyn Knowles,
Car Mechanics,
Bauer Media, Media House,
Lynchwood,
Peterborough PE2 6EA
Email: martyn.knowles@
bauermedia.co.uk
RAV REVIEW Please include a postal
 I enjoyed the service item on address with letters
the Toyota RAV4.2 in the June submitted by email.
2019 issue. I have owned five of
these since 2002 so obviously
rate them very highly. I did spot
an error in the service summary
BAD MIX
 Very informative article
at the end of the article: you state
about direct-injection petrol
that the timing belt has to be
engines (‘DIY with GDI’, CM,
replaced at 60,000 miles or six
August 2019). One thing that
years, but I think you mixed this
wasn’t mentioned is that
up with the serpentine belt driving
mixing one of these types of
the alternator, water pump, aircon
engines with an LPG system
compressor, etc. The VVTi petrol RAV4.2 has a Incidentally, while this RAV4 was in for
tends to destroy the injectors
timing chain that doesn’t require any servicing. servicing, it was noted that corrosion was
due to the excess heat,
Jim McKinney forming towards the back end of the floorpan.
because there’s no cooling
There was also an issue that someone had
from the fuel.
Martyn Knowles responds: Thanks for the obviously tried to undo one of the front
Apparently, LPG kit suppliers
comments, Jim. Our RAV4 in for a service was suspension mounting points and not been
have now started refusing to
registered in mid-2001 and we think we know able to do so, had cut into the floorpan and
fit kits to DI petrol engines.
where our mistake came from. The engines left a hole there that hadn’t been sealed.
Mike Wattam
were changed from cambelt to timing chain I notice this particular RAV4 was presented
in late 2000 and we hadn’t picked up on this for an MOT in July this year and failed on
when doing the final write-up. various items and is now not on the road.
SAILING AWAY Standard 12 Avon Sports in the 1936 RAC Rally.

 Your Summer Fun feature (CM, July
19) about old motoring advertisements
took me back to my youth. In 1960,
my family moved to a disused wartime
naval air station. My father was a naval
officer at the time and he decided
that my brother and I – aged 13 and
14 respectively – should learn to drive
and how to service cars. We bought a
Standard 12, circa 1926, at a scrapyard
for £5 (delivered!) and started driving
around the empty airfield.
In winter, we discovered how to
control skidding on the bald tyres. The Standard’s steering was less than precise, so when we
TYRED &
found an old wooden ship’s rudder washed up on the local beach, we attached it to the boot for
‘assisted steering’. The improvement was immediate!
EMOTIONAL
 I have noticed an increasing
My brother later worked as an aero-engineer at Rolls-Royce and I became a marine engineer number of cars being fitted
officer aboard nuclear submarines. Something to do with an ancient motor car and gaining with Chinese-made tyres. Just
confidence by making lots of mistakes? Who knows! recently, I was a passenger
Dr H Anderson in a Skoda Octavia taxi and
the driver complained bitterly
about the choppy ride. When
PROJECT EX we looked at the tyres, they
had the correct pressures,
 It has been interesting to read about your BMW E61 but the sidewalls were very
530d project (CM, April to September 2019) as I owned rigid. Closer inspection of the
one myself until last year. As you have found, they do have markings showed they were
their foibles and common faults. The iDrive can be a pain, called Rapid, were made in
but you do get used to it after a while. China and claimed to have six
One thing I used to do was keep a regular check on the plies – that’s the van standard!
DPF back pressure, as a fair amount of my journeys were Later, my local tyre store said
quite short, so I wanted to make sure the DPF did not get these Rapid tyres were very
blocked. It did regenerate fairly regularly on a run, but as a popular due to the low price.
preventive measure I put a bottle of Cataclean DPF cleaner I think that explains a lot!
in the fuel once a month, which seemed to work very well. Mike Wattam
Another thing I did was to ignore the BMW oil service
interval and change the oil every 10,000 miles, as I can’t believe any oil will last for 18,000 miles. Martyn Knowles responds:
The BMW specialist I use also recommends a 10,000-mile interval to keep the turbo in good order. Maybe these Rapid tyres work
Richard Drake better on a Skoda Rapid!

STAR
SMART CAR? LETTER
 We recently updated our
20-year-old Vauxhall Astra
for one with a 63-plate. What
a difference! But there is a
problem: the new car has a
‘brain’ which is too clever by half.
I changed the oil and filter
soon after buying it – in spite of
assurances by the dealer that
STAR
it had been done – because the
colour of the oil was literally
black. Some time after that, a
warning lamp illuminated telling
us the car was due an oil change!
LETTER
The reader awarded the
Eventually I found out that you needed to use the footbrake to reset this pointless advice. STAR letter will receive a
Then we got another warning that the engine had a fault. Our very helpful local garage SEALEY LED3601R lamp
investigated and told us that we had let the fuel level drop too low, even though we hadn’t. Once  This Sealey 360° lamp can
again, the system was reset and all was well. Soon after that a ‘Code 85’ was indicated. There illuminate your workspace no
was no explanation of this in the handbook, so I ignored it and it has never been seen since. matter where you are. It can
hang, attach and best of all, be
Is there any way of neutralising these pointless warnings, so I can be trusted to look after set to any angle you need, from
the car on my own? Or is that too much to hope for? any angle you want, thanks to
Dr H Anderson its’ unique 360° rotating ball
feature in the base. This unique
feature, along with its powerful
Martyn Knowles responds: The motor vehicle does like to consider itself smart and does magnets, means that you can
have a brain that can react in milliseconds, but is it faster than a human brain? position it in the most awkward
of spaces, leaving you with both
hands free to work.
 The Sealey LED3601R is a mini
REVERSE ARGUMENT and lightweight lamp with 2W
COB LEDs, which emit a purer
 Given Ian Potts’ views on reversing lights source of light compared to
(‘Seeing the light’, Your Letters, September other LEDs. One single light
2019) does he think headlights are there to source means one shadow,
unlike multiple SMD lights. The
warn other road users that you are coming lamp also has the addition of a
towards them, not to see where you are going? micro USB charging port.
I passed my driving test in 1962 and, in all of
that time, I have never heard anyone express
the same opinion on reversing lights.
When I started driving, not many cars were
factory-fitted with reversing lights, so we
bought kits with a manual switch and fitted
them ourselves. This was to see behind us
when reversing, not to warn other motorists.
Richard Langdon
WRENCHING
EXPERIENCE
 In your Editorial in the July 2019 issue, you
asked if anyone had ever found a bizarre foreign
object in their car’s engine, like the door mirror
extracted from your Audi TT Roadster.
Well, I found this tool (see picture at right) in the engine bay of my Ford Ka MkII when I was giving the
engine a good clean. I still have it and it has proved pretty useful!
Jayne Newbury
Martyn Knowles responds: Well spotted, Jayne. Even with the power of my computer and the
internet I couldn’t quite make out the manufacturer of these adjustable pliers. I can see that
they measure 280mm/10.9in in length, but the serial number is unreadable. FOBBED OFF
I read with interest in Tales
from the Workshop (CM,
DODGY DESCRIPTIONS October 2019) about the

‘Broken key concern’ on a
 Regarding your Editorial about illegal the point where the engine has been replaced 2010 Hyundai i20. You say you
numberplates (CM, September 2019), these for one of a greater bhp, but the V5C hasn’t haven’t heard of this before,
can be bought on eBay with no need to produce been updated accordingly, often giving rise to however the exact same
any ID or paperwork, sold as ‘show plates’. the claim in a sale advert of cheaper insurance. thing happened to my 2010
Although suspect plates might be picked up Again, on eBay, if you search for vehicles Kia Cee’d earlier this year. A
during an MOT, there are other more serious described as being ‘still registered as’, you’ll snapped key is more common
things that might not. Chief amongst these, in see what I mean. than you think…
my opinion, is cars that have been modified to David Payne Phil Rush

us: Niss an Micra K 1 3
Used Car Foc
Looks aren’t
everything
What it lacked in charm the fourth-generation
Micra made up for in reliability and ease of use.
Chris Randall turns the spotlight on the K13.
T
he Nissan Micra first appeared and, for UK models, Nissan’s Chennai
in the UK in 1983. By the time it plant in India. That it was launched at
turned 30, more than six million the same time as the innovative Juke and
had been made. That first model, LEAF probably didn’t help matters.
the K10, was a neatly-styled and capable But enough of the negativity. The K13
small car, but with each new generation still makes for an affordable and reliable
the looks got funkier, the dynamics got urban runabout, so let’s see what else it
better, and city car rivals faced a tougher has to offer.
challenge. Which brings us to the fourth-
generation model, the K13, which sat on
Nissan’s V-platform (Versatile). EQUIPMENT
Unveiled at the 2010 Geneva Motor In keeping with the aim of simple, fuss-
Show by the now-embattled Carlos free motoring, just three trim levels were
Ghosn, it was a rather different take on on offer at launch. At £8995, Visia was
the theme and one that left some Micra the entry level, with buyers getting six
devotees and the motoring press a little airbags, electric front windows and steel
underwhelmed. Many considered it a wheels. There was no air-conditioning,
backward step, especially in the style though. For that, you’d need the £10,595
department, and the blame lay in the fact Acenta, which also added 15-inch alloys
that this was to be a global car. Destined and cruise control. For maximum kit
to be sold in 56 countries, the generic there was the Tekna. Costing another
looks compromised its appeal and it £1500, it featured a panoramic glass
would struggle to repeat the success of roof, electrically-adjustable folding size of a parking space and tell the driver
previous models. mirrors, rear parking sensors, automatic via a dashboard display whether the car
Neither was it to be built in headlights/wipers and the Parking Space would fit; Amateur, Normal and Expert
Sunderland (the last Micra left there on Measurement (PSM) system. The last settings allowed for varying levels of
July 16, 2010). Instead it would roll out of these was a clever innovation that manoeuvring skill.
of factories in Thailand, Mexico, China used the parking sensors to assess the The Kuro and Shiro (black and
white in Japanese) special editions
2013 facelift model. of December 2011 were based on the
Acenta, cost £11,550, and featured
special paint and trim, the PSM system,
heated front seats and climate control.
Another notable limited edition – the
Elle – is outlined on page 51, but October
2012 saw Nissan slash prices to boost
slightly lacklustre sales. The range now
spanned £7995-£11,545 and brought more
kit along with a new Acenta Connect trim
featuring a touchscreen sat-nav.
Prices rose again for summer 2013’s
substantial makeover, which revised
the exterior styling and interior, the
latter getting a revised centre console
and an infotainment system with a
5.8-inch touchscreen, more kit and
personalisation options, along with new
tricot mesh or suede-effect seat fabrics.

Used Car Focus Nissan Micra K13
Manufactured from
2010-2016 Special Elle
 Limited or special editions have

long been a feature of the Nissan
Micra range and the fourth-
generation was no different.
Launched in September 2012, the
Elle was a tie-in with the fashion
magazine and was a model
unashamedly aimed at female
buyers. Ignore the florid marketing
spiel that accompanied it and
what you got was a car based on
Acenta trim and costing from
£12,000. Just 500 were destined
for the UK and both engines were
available, but the appeal lay in the
generous level of kit. Alongside
air-conditioning and cruise control
there was the panoramic glass
roof, 15-inch alloys in a titanium
grey finish, a roof spoiler and front
fog-lamps. Special badging and
seat fabrics also featured, while
colour choices were Shiraz Red,
Alabaster White and Atlas Blue.
Engine choice
 Nissan offered the K12 Micra with a diesel engine, but for the new model
they decided that frugal petrol motors would do the job. Just two were on
offer, both of which were new HR12 1.2-litre three-cylinder units featuring
twin chain-driven camshafts and variable valve timing. The entry-level
model managed 79bhp and although performance was modest – reaching
62mph took a lethargic 13.7 seconds – it claimed a combined 56.5mpg
and 115g/km CO2 emissions. Opt for the automatic transmission (CVT)
and those figures became 52.3mpg and 125g/m, but it was an otherwise
impressive showing and the alternative engine offering was even better.
The supercharged 1.2 DIG-S (Direct Injection Gasoline – Supercharged)
not only featured additional tech, including stop-start and an intelligent
alternator, but operated on the more efficient Miller Cycle at low revs,
before switching to the conventional Otto Cycle at higher engine speeds.
The result was combined economy of 68.9mpg in manual form and CO2
emissions of just 95g/km (115g/km for the CVT). With 98bhp to play
with, performance was markedly improved, with the 0-62mph time
cut to 11.3 seconds with a 112mph top speed.
Decently refined and with a pleasingly thrummy note when
Engine specifications
extended, both engines suit the Micra’s city car brief, and their Engine Power Consumption CO2 0-62mph
fuel-sipping nature is a further plus for those after cheap running
1.2 79bhp 56.5mpg 115g/km 13.7sec
costs. The three-year/60,000-mile warranty would have added
peace of mind, too. 1.2 DIG-S 98bhp 68.9mpg 95g/km 11.3sec

Valuations
 The earliest cars, most of which have covered from 50,000-
90,000 miles, can be found for £3000, but a few Cat S write-offs
dwell here, so make sure you know what you’re buying. Add another
£1000 and there’s still plenty of choice, but at £5000-£6000
there’s a rich seam of 2014/2015 models, plus the odd 16-plater
from a Nissan dealer that will have done less than 40,000 miles.
You’ll also find 66/17-plate cars with very low mileages at around
£9000, but at this price point you’re getting perilously close to the
superior fifth-generation model.
With so many for sale at any one time, be fussy about condition
and be sure to haggle.
Finally, N-TEC trim from August 2015 on the test-drive. Any hint of judder, treads a well-worn path with a suspension
meant lots of standard kit, including slippage or a high biting point should be set-up comprising struts at the front
16-inch alloys, privacy glass and Nissan treated with caution. Having it replaced and a torsion beam at the rear. It’s an
Connect with Google Send-to-Car tech at a Nissan dealer could cost upwards of arrangement that provides a competent
that allowed routes checked on a tablet £700, although a good-quality clutch kit blend of ride and handling ability, and
or PC at home to be sent to the car. can be sourced for around a third of this there’s little to concern the used buyer.
if you fancy tackling the job yourself. A life spent tackling urban speed
As for the CVT gearbox, it’s easy enough bumps and potholes can take its toll on
TRANSMISSION to use and makes for an even simpler bushes and anti-roll bar droplinks, so
Like the engines, the choice of driving experience, although it has a listen out for clunks and rattles, although
transmission couldn’t have been simpler. notable impact on economy and doesn’t parts are cheap and easy to replace.
A five-speed manual unit was specified as do much for refinement or performance. It’s the same story with the brakes,
standard, but for an extra £1000 buyers Repairs or replacement can be pricey which are more than up to the task.
could opt for an Xtronic CVT automatic. and a session with a Nissan dealer’s Once again, replacement parts are
While there has been the odd grumble diagnostic equipment will be needed if cheap if you’re renewing pads and discs
about noisy manual gearboxes these seem you suspect problems, so unless just two on a DIY basis.
to be isolated cases. It’s a slick-shifting unit pedals is vital we’d stick with the manual. Nissan equipped the Micra with
and the well-spaced ratios make the best of electrically-assisted steering and, bar the
the modest power outputs on offer. There odd report of problems, it provides the
is one issue, though, and that relates to RUNNING GEAR driver with a suitably light helm and an
the clutch. Tales of premature failure are You could hardly expect a modestly-priced impressively tight turning circle. That it’s
common and, while the cause isn’t clear, supermini to be at the cutting edge of pretty-much devoid of feel and feedback
it would be wise to ensure it feels healthy chassis technology. Instead, the Micra might not matter to many potential buyers,
Kuro and Shiro trim.

Recalls
 Half-a-dozen recalls affected the
K13 Micra, the first issued for 2011
models and involving a leaking fuel
rail pressure sensor. In 2013, there
was a problem with brake master
cylinders and, in 2014, Nissan called
back 2010-2012 cars due to a faulty
driver’s airbag.
Two recalls issued in 2015 dealt
with unintended acceleration
– an ECU software update was the
cure – and the engine start button
sticking, the latter requiring a new
housing for affected models built
between 2013 and 2015.
Finally, a faulty ignition coil saw
cars recalled in 2016. This could
cause a misfire or stop the engine.
although it’s worth pointing out that rivals the seat fabrics ultimately prove hard-
have proved that it’s not necessary for wearing albeit lacking in tactile appeal –
small cars to lack dynamic sparkle. post-2013 models feel a bit plusher inside
Last, it’s worth a check that penny- – and there are too any examples for sale
pinching owners haven’t resorted to the to get lumbered with anything shabby.
cheapest of budget tyres and watch for As for the electrics, there’s no reason
kerb-damaged alloy rims. to think it shouldn’t all be in working
order. Given that trim levels have little
effect on values, it’s worth plumping for a
BODY & ELECTRICS well-specced model.
It was perhaps inevitable that a car Really, the only thing worth checking
intended for so many markets would is the Nissan Connect infotainment
end up being compromised, and that’s system where fitted – there can be
arguably the case when it comes to the the odd irritating glitch, so ensure it
styling. Looks are subjective, of course, functions as it should.
but while the K13 is neat and inoffensive,
it’s rather a shame the design didn’t
move the game on from its more WHAT GOES WRONG
interesting predecessors. In a nutshell, very little where the
The five-door body was claimed to engines are concerned. Perhaps that’s no
be lighter than before at 915kg, as well real surprise given Nissan’s reputation
as lower and longer with an increased for reliability – it certainly bolsters the
wheelbase, and the result was plenty of Micra’s case for hassle-free ownership. Verdict
space for passengers and luggage. Boot Service intervals for the pair of
space was 265-1132 litres – larger than that Pure Drive units were 12,500 miles  There’s no denying the fact that a
of some rivals – so this is a practical choice. or one year. As the earliest cars are number of talented rivals can offer
The Micra was awarded a four-star fast approaching their tenth birthday, greater levels of style and dynamic
safety rating by EuroNCAP. That’s in line it’s worth checking that routine polish, so if those are attributes you
with other cars in its class, and although maintenance hasn’t been ignored. With admire then best look elsewhere.
But should an undemanding driving
not over-endowed with safety tech no cambelt to worry about, a record of
experience and ease of use sit
you still get six airbags, seat belt pre- regular oil and filter changes will ensure
higher on your list of priorities,
tensioners, and ESP as standard. the timing chain remains healthy, while
the Micra becomes a much more
There are no bodywork issues to even franchised dealers only charge
appealing proposition.
report, other than a need to check for around £200 for a service so there’s
Interior space, reliability and low
the usual dents and scuffs. More notable little reason to skimp. That said, there’s running costs are definite pluses,
was the facelift of 2013, an attempt to nothing complicated under the bonnet, while the perky and frugal DIG-S
inject some pizzazz into the styling that so maintenance is well within the scope engine isn’t without charm, so that
brought alterations to the bonnet, wings, of a competent DIY mechanic. would be our choice.
and front bumper, along with the ‘V All of the usual service items are That the overall package
grille’ featured on other Nissan models. inexpensive and are easy to source from is somewhat mediocre when
Along with redesigned headlamps, there the online parts suppliers. If the car measured against the class best
were now LED light units at the rear. you’re looking at has been maintained is a shame and a missed
The cabin design was freshened up this way then it’s worth checking that the opportunity by Nissan, but the
at the same time. While there wasn’t a spark plugs have been changed on time prospect of hassle-free ownership
great deal wrong with the original layout, – they need renewing at 37,500 miles and means it still deserves a place on
it did feel a bit plasticky and low-rent. accessing them means removing the inlet your shopping list.
Trim rattles can prove an annoyance, but manifold, although it’s not a difficult job.

Ian Cushway searches out new and used parts prices
lG
Lotus
Exige S2
This hardcore take on the Lotus Elise is
reliable and surprisingly cheap to run.
L
otus got pulses racing when it launched the Exige S1 in 2000 with its edgy
1.8-litre K-series engine and mini Group C racer looks. The S2 took things
a step further in 2004, swapping the Rover unit for an equally eager Toyota
2ZZ-GE 1.8 and adding wider front and rear wheels, along with a more
muscular body. With its aero kit and stiffer suspension, it instantly became the
affordable weekend track toy on everyone’s wish list. The best
was yet to come though in the form of the brutally quick 240R, Toyota’s 1.8 works well in the Exige and is proving
which came along in 2005. With a supercharger bolted on, it utterly reliable. Picture credit: Sevens & Classics.
shaved a second off the already swift 0-60mph time of the stock
S2, taking it to barely feasibly 3.9 seconds.
Those in search of a happy compromise had their needs
satisfied with the S model that broke cover a year later. It cost a
lot less, but still boasted a supercharger and 31mpg economy.
There were numerous special editions during the car’s lifespan,
but the following advice applies to all of them in equal measure.
Engines Engine component prices

Toyota reliability is legendary – OIL FILTER
and happily, that carries over to Independent from £6.46
the engine in the Exige. Service CLUTCH KIT
intervals are every 9000 miles/ Independent from £348.00
12 months, although cars that (uprated)
get a regular ragging would RADIATOR
benefit from more regular Independent from £258.00
oil and filter changes. If (aluminium, upgraded)
you were worried about the
prospect of that Magnuson MP62 Eaton twin rotor roots-type
supercharger going wrong, don’t. It’s proving very robust. into 3rd, especially when cold. Due to their low mass, clutches
Incidentally, Hangar 111.com can supply and fit a 280S tend to be long-lived, but when they do go you can expect to pay
supercharger kit to regular cars for £6718.80. in the region of £350 for an uprated replacement.
One weak point is the radiator, which eventually leaks due
to ageing. Lots will have been swapped already but, if not, the
least expensive alloy replacements we found cost £258 from Steering and suspension
eliseparts.com. Bear in mind that the front clamshell has to The scalpel-sharp unassisted steering in the Exige is what
come off to fit it, so you will need to factor in a hefty labour gives it its edge, but wear and accident damage can introduce
charge if you don’t do the work yourself. sloppiness. If this is the case, a replacement exchange standard
While Toyota’s six-speed transmission can handle lots of ratio rack can be acquired for as little as £384. Early pre-
abuse, watch for loss of synchromesh when shifting from 2nd supercharged cars were fitted with Bilstein dampers, but lots
F I X Y O U R C A R W I T H H AY N E S M A N U A L S

Survival Guide Lotus Exige S2
The Exige is a track-day favourite, so beware examples that

USEFUL CONTACTS
TOP
TIP
have been given a severe hammering every weekend. Also,
avoid heavily-modified cars as they won’t have the same level Eliseparts.com 01480 860002
of driveability or reliability as a stock car. The best buys are eliseparts.com
ones that have been more of a showpiece than a track weapon.
Euro Car Parts 020 8956 5000
eurocarparts.com
GSF Car Parts 0121 626 7981
gsfcarparts.com
Hangar 111 01473 811811
hangar111.com
Nitron 01993 849449 nitron.co.uk
Paul Matty 01527 835656
paulmattysportscars.co.uk
Quaife Engineering 01732 741144
quaife.co.uk
Lotus Exige S2
2004-2011
Model S2 S2 S
Engine (cc) 1796 1796
Power (bhp) 189 218
0-60mph (sec) 5 4.2
Top speed (mph) 147 148
Average fuel (mpg) 32 31
Interiors are
pretty basic.
However, an
aircon is a
will have had aftermarket
Suspension must-have
upgrades. There’s a vast component prices option as the
array of choices, but products cabin gets
from Öhlins and Nitron are STEERING RACK pretty hot.
Direct replacement
popular; the latter sells a
from £384.37
Street Series 2 suspension kit
for less than £900. SUSPENSION KIT
To get the most out of (FOUR DAMPERS)
Original Bilstein £946.56;
an Exige, a four-wheel
Öhlins LOV1-4D00 £2722.69;
laser alignment check is Nitron £874.80
recommended. At around
£50, it’s money well spent. Tyre choice is important, too, so
stick to the likes of Avon, Toyo and Yokohama.
One relatively inexpensive upgrade is to fit a limited slip
differential. A Quaife unit will cost £774 and, as you’ll need
to remove the clutch to fit it, it would be wise to upgrade
Other issues Other
that at the same time. component prices
Beware of damage to the car’s tub
Brake BODY CLAMSHELL
component prices as it’s the most common cause for
Brakes an Exige to be written-off. Also, try Front from £1980.00,
rear from £2700.00
As you would expect, the 282mm BRAKE DISCS (PAIR) to take a look at the underside to
Stock vented from
ventilated disc set-up is more see if there’s been any damage from speed bumps or kerbing.
£138; EBC 288mm blade
than capable of scraping speed vented £216.53 The glassfibre body is strong, but look for spider cracks that
off the lightweight Exige. That could indicate more problems underneath.
said, there are all manner FRONT BRAKE PADS It’s worth mentioning that tall drivers may struggle to fit
Stock from £41.49
of upgrades available, from inside an Exige, although a solution for many is to fit a steering
Uprated £62.38 (EBC
308mm discs right through to Green Stuff) wheel spacer to provide more knee-room.
complete aftermarket caliper With prices starting from £20,000 for an early Exige S2, if
kits costing thousands. For street use, a slightly bigger disc and you’re looking for a car that’s cheap to run, fabulous to drive,
performance pads are likely to be a good compromise. reliable and inexpensive to maintain, you’ve just found it.
PRINT ONLINE VIDEO

End of the pneumatic tyre?
Reinventing
the wheel
While technology has brought
notable improvements to motoring,
tyres are still a problem for many
drivers. But Michelin may have the
answer, as Chris Randall finds out.
 The pneumatic tyre has been with us
since the 1880s, with Scottish veterinary
surgeon John Boyd Dunlop credited
with its invention. While some argue that
another Scot, Robert Thomson, is the
true inventor, having patented something
similar in 1845, there’s no doubt that a
move from solid tyres to ones filled with
air transformed motoring.
The technology involved may have
changed out of all recognition compared
to those early efforts, thanks to
advances in materials and construction,
as well as the advent of the run-flat tyre,
but the humble ‘boot’ is still seen as a
troublesome expense by many drivers.
But what if the need for regular
maintenance and the risk of annoying
and costly punctures could be
eliminated? That’s what Michelin are
proposing with its Unique Puncture-
proof Tyre System (Uptis) airless tyre.
The tyre was unveiled at the Movin’ On
summit held in Montreal in June 2019,
with Michelin claiming it could be in
mainstream production in just five years.
Although derived from Michelin’s
Tweel technology – introduced in
2004 to investigate the potential for
combined wheels and tyres – the key and high-strength resin-embedded in waste, but also limit the energy and
difference is that ealier prototypes glassfibre that’s wrapped in a normal materials needed for production. With
could only handle low-speed use. On the tyre tread. Able to deform in order to no danger of blow-outs, driving will
other hand, Uptis has been designed absorb impacts, the prototype wheel also be safer. Combine that with the
for high-speed driving and handling. and tyre weighs around 22kg, which is elimination of damage and punctures
Michelin also claim that, as far as ride similar to a conventional wheel. While suffered by conventional rubber and
comfort is concerned, a driver won’t this might be reduced further as the it’s easy to see the advantages it offers
notice any difference. According to technology is refined, Michelin says to motorists. Being stranded at the
Michelin CEO Florent Menegaux: “Uptis other weight savings are realised due roadside could become a thing of the
demonstrates that Michelin’s vision to the innovative design, because a past, and there would be no more
for a future of sustainable mobility is spare wheel, jack and Tyre Pressure worries about under- or over-inflation.
clearly an achievable dream”. Monitoring System can all be ditched. While it may be 2024 before Uptis is
Part of the company’s VISION available to most of us, it will be hitting
initiative that brings together a raft the road much sooner. Michelin has
How does this new of innovative technology, including announced a partnership with General
technology work? the potential for 3D printing, Uptis is Motors that will see the wheel fitted
At its core is an aluminium wheel claimed to be suitable for all manner to a test fleet of Chevrolet Bolt EVs.
assembly that forms the spokes and of vehicles and should bring notable Real-world testing will begin in the US in
attachment point to the wheel hub. benefits in sustainability. Michelin says 2019 and, if the results are as promising
While that appears conventional, things 200 million tyres are scrapped per year as the company hopes, it could just
then take a significantly unorthodox – equivalent to the weight of 200 Eiffel signal the beginning of a revolution that
turn. Surrounding the central wheel is Towers! – so the clever design will not will see regular visits to the tyre-fitting
a flexible structure made from rubber only bring about substantial reductions centre consigned to history.

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Initially Bushes were imported from Australi n locally made Stainless

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To view our wide range of Specific & Universal products visit www.superflex.co.uk
DIY sill welding and painting
DIY ill
&
REPAIRS
Contrary to popular belief, rust can bite hard into modern cars.
Rob Marshall looks at how involved a decent repair can be.
O
ne nasty surprise on CM’s budget Chrysler PT Cruiser On the other hand, a proper DIY repair would come at a price.
(CM, July 2019) was that it had a substantial rust Excluding the costs of buying or hiring a welder, compressor
hole in its nearside outer sill. While seam-welding and spray guns, our parts bill came to £151.18 and the work was
a crudely-bent steel plate over the corrosion would spread over a weekend.
have passed an MOT, such a short-term fix was inexpensive, but Bear in mind that bodyshop charges for the same job would
unsatisfactory in the long term. likely be three to four times that sum.
SILL REPAIR & PAINT 1  Our 2003 Chrysler

PT Cruiser had a sizable
rust hole, with surrounding
paint blisters indicating
further corrosion. First, it was
important to establish why the
panel had rusted.
 We probed the suspect
2 areas. A screwdriver
passed through the bubbled
paint and it was clear that
the panel was rusting from the
inside out.
 Both the welding and

3 paintwork required were
made more complicated by
the suspicious bubbling paint
extending into the rear door shut.
 As replacement sill
4 panels are unavailable
in the UK, we had a section
cut from a scrap car. This
included both the outer
and inner sill.
 The spot welds (see

5 inset) were drilled out
with a suitable drillbit (see Step
10) to separate the outer sill
from the inner. The top section
was sliced with a cutting disc.
 Our replacement panel

6 bore some light surface
rust, which could be removed
with a wire brush prior to
receiving a coat of rust converter.

 We then
7 removed any
plastic liners, or
trim, that might
get in the way,
or be damaged.
This section was
secured by a screw
and several plastic
friction clips.
Plastic and fabric wheelarch guards We assessed the point at which we As with the repair panel, we used the
8 can trap mud and moisture, promoting 9 needed to cut out the rust and ensured 10 special drillbit on the original spot
corrosion. The affected area must be that we could weld to unaffected metal, by welds that secured the bottom of the inner
cleaned, or repaired, where necessary. scribing reference marks on the car. sill to the outer (see Step 5).
 After removing
11 any flammable
material inside the sill, such
as the sound-deadening
material that had caused
our rust, we relocated any
wiring that was present.
 The outer sill

12 here had corroded
severely, so we checked
that the rust had not
spread to neighbouring
panels, such as the inner
sill, which would have
required further repairs.
 Surprisingly, the
13 inner sill on our car
was in excellent condition.
Light surface rust was
removed with a rotary
wire brush and…
 …coated with
14 anti-rust converter.
Try to avoid areas that will
be welded, because you
risk compromising weld
strength if the metal is
contaminated.

The amount of metal removed showed how far the corrosion …because the scrap donor car had suffered frontal crash
15 had extended, even though the inner sill was unaffected. 16 damage, the full length panel was unavailable, hence the gap
Ideally, we should have replaced the entire section but… (circled) on the far left, below the front passenger door.
An edge setter/joggler tool created a Before the panel was clamped in place
18 19
17 With the panel clamped in place, we
made minor adjustments to both the
step into which the edges of the new
panel would locate. This reduces the risk of
accurately, we coated all bare metal
with a weld-through etch primer to reduce
panel and car body to ensure an accurate fit. distortion and the body filler needed. the chance of corrosion striking again.
Once we were certain that the panel was positioned accurately, As the area had been spot-welded originally, the panel’s
20 we disconnected the battery and started welding. Weld in short 21 shape made seam-welding difficult – the bottom edge of the
bursts only, leaving time for the metal to cool, to avoid distortion. outer sill was plug-welded.
Next, using a sheet of Zintec steel, we measured and cut a The plate was fitted before the sill section had been welded
22 suitable section to cover the remaining hole. Once again, weld 23 fully. We secured it with a welding clamp, although several
in short bursts only, to avoid distortion (see Step 20). mole grips will usually suffice.

Due to the MOT regulations regarding welding repairs (see If your welds stand proud (like ours, not helped by us using
24 page 64), we elected to seam-weld this homemade panel into 25 0.8mm diameter wire on this thin metal, instead of 0.6mm),
place, including its bottom edge, to ensure maximum strength. use a grinding disc to flatten their tops and…
We removed any paint and potential

27 contamination (such as oil or polish/
26 …finish off with a flap disc, which is
less aggressive. Note that grinding also wax) with an orbital sander and 400-grit 28 We mixed the body filler on an onion
board, available from bodyshop
risks distorting surrounding metal, and flying sandpaper from a decent quality brand, suppliers for about £8. Seam-seal any joints,
sparks can burn upholstery and mark glass. such as Mirka and Starcke. where moisture might enter the sill.
During sanding, you may encounter high-spots, which will

You should not need much body filler, although several light layers 30
29 are preferable to a single heavy one. Wear protective gloves.
require tapping-down and the area refilled. Wear a mask to
protect your lungs from filler dust.
Use 80- or 100-grit sandpaper for initial shaping. Modern Pictured is the result after sanding two light coats of filler.
31 abrasives do not need water, especially as filler and primer 32 There was a slight variation in the lower sill to door gap that
absorbs moisture, which will cause the paint to micro-blister. could be tapped down and refilled but...

…we decided to paint the whole sill Some areas could not be reached Small indents in the filler can be
33 panel end-to-end. Using 400-grit 34 by the sander, so the filler had to be 35 repaired without remixing a new batch.
sandpaper on our sander, we prepped the shaped by hand. We started with 40-grit, Instead, an air-drying cellulose stopper can be
whole panel lightly. progressing to 100-grit, then 400-grit. applied with a finger and sanded with 400-grit.
The whole sill does not need filler priming, only the work We wiped the sill down with a panel wipe solvent, then coated
36 area. Paper masking rolls are surprisingly inexpensive from a 37 any bare metal with air-drying acid etch primer to optimise
bodyshop, as is good-quality masking tape. adhesion and corrosion protection. Wear a suitable mask.
Working in a well-ventilated area, we applied the thick filler Note how the filler primer ‘feathers’ into the wheelarch and
38 primer, including just beyond the repair. The spray gun 39 does not form a step at the masked line. Apply a dust of black
required a larger diameter nozzle (1.5-1.8mm). aerosol paint, which acts as a guide coat so that…
… when you sand it down with 400-grit, it guides your eyes to Hand-sanding with a block and 400-grit will be needed in
40 the imperfections. The aim is to remove all of the black paint, 41 areas that cannot be accessed by the orbital sander. Should
leaving a smooth and even surface. you rub through the primer, another coat may be required.

When you are satisfied that the Where you cannot mask up to an As it was easier to paint the whole
42 primer coat is smooth and uniform, 43 edge, work beyond the repair. Using 44 door jamb, the area was masked up to
tricky corners can be prepared with an your Scotch-Brite pad, dull the surrounding the door seal and the original paint rubbed
abrasive Scotch-Brite pad. paintwork to provide a suitable key. down with a grey Scotch-Brite pad.
A different approach was used for the front door jamb. The We masked up the car comprehensively. Note how far up the
45 masking tape was folded back on itself ‘back-taped’ along 46 masking goes on the wheelarch; your intention should not be
the panel edge, avoiding a defined edge. to paint up to the tape (see Step 43).
After ensuring that all paint had been dulled by Scotch-Brite, If the rubbing-down process reveals any bare metal, coat it
47 we applied a panel-wipe solution with clean kitchen roll to 48 with an acid etch primer – a small aerosol is ideal for this
remove any lingering grease and dust. purpose. Wear a suitable mask.
Any paint shop should mix colour base- Our base coat needed thinning by Apply 2-3 coats of colour base-coat,
49 coat for you; most types are water- 50 50%. We used slightly better quality 51 allowing sufficient drying time to
based. We bought a quarter-of-a-litre, then thinners than plain gun-wash. The pictured avoid the risk of the paint sagging. Do not
stirred and filtered it into a measuring cup. quantity is sufficient for the whole job. paint up to the taped line on a flat panel.

What the MOT says
 When dry,
52 base coat takes
on a matt appearance,
while clear lacquer
creates the sheen. We
recommend using a
non-isocyanate lacquer.
 The MOT regulations used to be

very clear: any patch repair had to be
attached by a continuous weld all the
way round its edges (ie, a seam-weld)
unless a complete panel was fitted. In
the case of sills, a pattern outer cover
sill panel counts as a repair panel,
therefore it has to be seam-welded. A
genuine sill, which tends to incorporate
the entire side of the car including the
inner wings and door jambs, can be
spot- or plug-welded.
Then, the rules changed and stated
that, even for patch repairs, either spot-
or plug-welding (see Step 21) could be
used in places where it was done so
originally. This tends to be how the lower
edge of a typical outer sill is attached.
Since the MOT was overhauled
comprehensively in May 2018, the
testing handbook provides additional
clarification: “You can only pass spot-
welded repairs if the original panel
was spot-welded and the original
panel (or section) has been removed.
Stitch- or plug-welding can be used
Lacquer is thinner than base-coat, so Allow the paint to dry for several instead of spot-welding. In all other
53 it is easier to create sags and runs. 54 hours, before removing the masking circumstances, patch repairs must be
Apply 2-3 coats, allowing sufficient time for paper. Leave the car for several days, before continuously seam-welded.”
the paint to ‘flash-off’ between applications. commencing any final finishing touches.
While we had not intended to create This was blended into the surrounding A rubbing compound paste, followed
55 a definite edge, by painting up to the 56 paint, by rubbing the area down with 57 by polish, was used to finish the
masking tape on the wheelarch, a line of new 2000-grit wet-and-dry, used wet, avoiding task. This also removes any dulled finishes,
paint was obvious. excessive hand-pressure. created by the Scotch Brite pads.
We replaced any trim that was

58 removed, including the wheelarch
liners. Many manufacturers recommend that The final result was a vast improvement. We will follow this up by rustproofing, including
fresh paint is not waxed for several months.
59 cavity wax injection, and checks that our welding has not burnt away any underseal

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Help! Your non-diagnostic
vehicle-related problems
solved by Steve Rothwell
GENERAL GENERAL GENERAL

Jump-start with Stretch belt tool The Laser stretchy
smart charge Do you have any thoughts on the

small wedges used to get stretch
belt-fitting tool.
I read in CM recently that you belts off pulleys? Are they any
should never attempt to jump- good? I need to replace a pulley on my
start a vehicle fitted with a smart- Ford Fiesta to change the thermostat
charge system. I would be very grateful if housing. My local mechanic says to use a
you could clear up a few questions I have crowbar to lever the alternator back,
regarding this. Does this advice mean to but I am dubious as it puts a lot of
not use a car with a smart-charge system pressure on lower bolt fixing. If not using
to give a jump-start, receive a jump-start, a bar, how do you get the belt back on?
or both? How do you tell if a car is fitted D Bennett
with a smart-charge system? If a car has
I have tried a belt-fitting tool and I found it difficult and very time consuming
a stop-start system fitted does this mean
to use. I would take your local mechanic’s advice to lever out the alternator
it must have a smart-charge system? How
top bolt, fit the belt and lever the alternator into position. This will not put
would a breakdown recovery service start
any more pressure on the lower bolt than is experienced during normal use.
a car fitted with a smart-charge system if
You have not mentioned which Fiesta you have, but if it is the 1.6 Ti-VCT then
the battery was flat?
the alternator can almost be swung back into place by hand with very little effort.
I have seen jump leads for sale with a
On vehicles with a stretchy belt, which do not have the option of moving
surge protector fitted to them, so would
the alternator, I have fashioned a small piece of steel which I use to guide the
they be of any use regarding a smart charge
belt over the edge of the crankshaft pulley. Laser can provide a nylon tool to
system? Would a booster pack be a better
guide the belt off and on which can be found at here: http://bit.ly/2CmT00l.
option? If so, are there any precautions to
Although I’ve never used this, I suspect it would be a good choice.
take regarding a car with a smart-charger?
My wife has a 65-plate Nissan Qashqai
1600 petrol with a stop-start system terminal of the donor vehicle and to a alleviate any potential problems. Jump-
– would that have a smart-charge system? suitable body earth point of the vehicle leads with a surge protection system
Jeremy Pardey requiring the jump-start. Start and run can help, but they are not necessarily
the donor vehicle, which should transfer the full answer. It is also the detection
Starting with your questions some charge to the flat battery, then of voltage which will determine the
in order, all modern vehicles turn off the donor vehicle and attempt charge rate, and when the leads are
are now fitted with much more to start the vehicle needing the jump- connected this will be altered by the
complex electronics and, with or without start. Once started, allow the engine to state of the jump battery, so it is still
a smart-charge system, precautions run for a short time before turning off vital to not disconnect the jump leads
must be taken. Any electrical surge and disconnecting the jump-leads. If the from a running engine.
resulting from a jump-start can result vehicle does not start after this process As a standby device, I would
in either of the connected vehicles when disconnected, the possibility that recommend the GB40 1000A NOCO
suffering damage. The golden rule is to the battery has failed is high. Jump Starter: https://no.co/gb40. This
never connect or disconnect the jump- When considering whether to jump- retails for around £99 and can also be
leads with the engine running. start a vehicle, the safest advice is to used to charge USB-connected devices,
The following procedure is generally assume that all modern vehicles are fitted such as mobile phones. It provides spark-
regarded as safe: Connect the red with a smart-charge system. Your wife’s proof connections and reverse polarity
jump lead to the positive connection Nissan does have an intelligent charging protection, making it safe and easy to
on the donor vehicle and then to the system. In most cases, a recovery service use. It can be left for up to a year before it
positive terminal of the flat battery, then will be equipped for such situations by will need to be charged, so can be stored
connect the black lead to the negative using an intelligent jump-pack that will in the vehicle in case of emergencies.
only two recommended timing belt

replacement intervals depending if you
had a cambelt change. What is the have a petrol or diesel unit. These are:
FORD FIESTA recommended change interval for this  1.25 & 1.4:
Cambelt interval
make and model? Every 100,000 miles or 8 years
Sara Egan
 1.6 Ti-VCT (including S&S/S1600):
I am considering buying a 2011 Although there are a few Every 100,000 miles or 8 years
Ford Fiesta with 74,000 miles, variations of engines fitted to  1.4 & 1.6 TDCi (including ECOnetic):
but I am unsure when it last this model, there are effectively Every 87,500 miles or 10 years

Help!
the compliance didn’t come into effect

FORD EXPLORER until 2001; this compliance is only
applicable to onboard engine systems
Overdrive light and does not cover the gearbox, ABS,
airbags, etc. Having said that, most
The overdrive light is coming modern professional scanners should
on when driving my 2000 Ford be able to interrogate the software.
Explorer North Face 4.0 auto. You should check that the live feed to
It shows up as a flashing light on the the OBD plug is operational – this is
dashboard and will not stop unless you powered by fuse 17, the same fuse as
switch the engine off and back on, then it the 12V socket.
might stay off for 500 miles or come back One common problem with the
in minutes. Sometimes you could do a Explorer is that the overdrive light flashes
200-mile journey and it won’t happen or it and may store codes ‘P0741’ and ‘P1740’
could happen after five miles. The overdrive in the ECU memory. This is normally
button on the gearshift has no effect on it caused by a damaged torque convertor
and, if you use this button to turn off the clutch solenoid valve. When this problem
overdrive, the light is on constantly. occurs, it is normally accompanied by
I have been told it could be the ECU, socket bar. I ended up grinding off the
a shudder through the drivetrain when head of the nut, damaging the pulley in
wiring or solenoids in the gearbox. Could pulling off and slowing down. Replacing
you shed any light on this? Also, do you the process, but that was not so much of a
the solenoid valve should rectify it. blow when I discovered part at the rear of
know of a code reader that would work
with this? I tried to get the codes read and the pulley was missing and, by the look of
a couple of garages couldn’t do it with FORD FOCUS the crack, had been gone for some time.
their expensive equipment. Anyway, I used the correct timing tools to
Stan Lurkins
Cambelt change set the timing and the car is running fine.
I know the crank pulley is tightened to
Starting with the code reader, I recently carried out a cambelt 45Nm and then 90° further (which is very
this depends on whether swap on my wife’s 2002 Ford tight). The Haynes manual says the pulley
the Explorer is imported or a Focus 1.6 petrol as it had done fits on a taper on the shaft, but I used
European model. If it is imported, then 145,000 miles on a replacement scrapper digital calipers to measure the taper and
it should be compliant with OBDII- engine fitted at 72,000 miles due to bore I could not find one – in my experience,
compatible code readers – federal wear causing blue smoke. I replaced the timing pulleys are locked by a woodruff
requirements apply to all vehicles sold clutch as well, but had trouble undoing key as well as having a significant taper.
in the US since 1996. If it is of European the crankshaft pulley nut despite having So how does the pulley stay locked to the
origin, it will not necessarily be welded a tool to hold the pulley still and crankshaft? The same question applies to
compatible with EOBD requirements, as using a 1.5 metre pipe on the end of the the camshaft sprockets. When I removed
all three nuts from the crank pulley and
camshaft sprockets on disassembly, they
all pulled off by hand without a puller,
FORD C-MAX whereas any tapered shaft fitting usually
Sticky ignition lock requires a puller to break the very tight fit.
Steve Forsyth
My vehicle is a 2007 Ford C-MAX 1.6 petrol with 86,000 miles. A few times As you have discovered, the
recently I have had to jiggle the key in the ignition to get it to turn. I have crankshaft pulley does not sit
oiled the switch and it works smoothly, but I'm worried that this may only be on a taper but on a perfectly
a temporary repair. I use the key to unlock the doors as the remote does not work. ground parallel shaft. The system does
If I have to change the switch, I don’t mind having two keys for the vehicle – one for seem precarious and relies purely on the
the ignition and one for the door. What should I do? friction of the clamping action between
P O’Hare the bolt and the lip of the crankshaft.
The ignition lock barrel and keys.
The fitting instructions specify that
A worn key can often cause as many problems as a the crankshaft should be cleaned to
worn lock. For this reason it may be advisable to first ensure that, when the pulley is fitted,
replace the key and then see how the lock feels. If it spins freely. The advantage of this
you get an auto locksmith to supply a replacement key, he system is that the timing will be very
may also solve the remote locking problem. precisely set. With the camshafts
Another point to consider is that the problem may not and crankshaft locked into place and
be the lock and barrel, but the ignition switch itself. To the belt fitted and tensioned before
test this, you would need to strip off the steering cowling clamping up the pulleys, any slight
and remove the ignition switch, but as lubricating the lock deviation in the timing belt length will be
has eased the problem, this may not be relevant. accommodated. The crankshaft pulley
The ignition barrel can be removed from the steering lock assembly. To do bolt should always be replaced to ensure
this, the key needs to be in the lock and in position 'I' (accessory position). You that the new bolt is exerting the correct
will then find a small locking tang in the body of the lock which needs to be force on the pulley to hold it in place. The
pushed in, in order to then pull the ignition barrel out using the key. If you then crankshaft should be held in position
fit a secondhand key and barrel, you’ll also need to have the replacement key when tightening the pulley using the
programmed to disarm the immobiliser system. tools 303-393A (plate) and 303-393-02
(locking adapter) to lock the flywheel.

Help!
FORD FIESTA
Smelly screenwash
I have a 59-reg Ford Fiesta. Since I have had the car, I get a rotten egg smell
when I use the wiper lever to spray screenwash on the front windscreen. VAUXHALL VIVARO
I haven’t noticed the smell coming through the back wiper. I have changed
to different types of screenwash and it has improved, but only slightly. I am currently
using Tesco Ready to Use Screen Wash and it works fine, but there is still a slight
odour. I was previously using Home Bargains screenwash,
Throttle response
I have a problem with a Vauxhall
which was worse , so do I need to go to somewhere like Halfords Vivaro 1.9 van which is fitted with a
and try screenwash from a company that looks after cars? Renault diesel engine. Before
Robert Foley I owned the van, it had been diagnosed as
having low fuel pressure. It starts up with
The bad smell from the screenwash is probably a smooth idle at around 900rpm, then
due to bacteria in the tubes. This is certainly not drops to a really lumpy tickover that hardly
something you should ignore as a preliminary study registers on the rev counter and doesn’t
by the HPA in 2010 stated that: “Windscreen wiper water respond to the accelerator pedal.
may be the cause of 20% of cases of Legionnaires’ disease I have replaced the high-pressure
in England and Wales”. Legionnaires’ disease is a potentially fuel pump, checked the EGR valve and
lethal lung infection usually spread by bacteria in water replaced a couple of glow plugs, but
systems. The study went on to say that using a washer still have the fault. I’m now thinking it
additive prevented the problem. might be a faulty injector or am I missing
There are a few different solutions for cleaning out the something obvious? I have ordered a fault
pipes. The easiest is to use sterilising fluid intended for code reader but it hasn’t arrived yet.
baby bottles. For under £5, you can get a 1-litre bottle of Geoff Cross
Milton Sterilising Fluid. First drain the washer bottle and
The Milton
top it up with the sterilising fluid, then run the washers for a sterilising fluid. You do not mention the year of
while to flush the pipes and leave the system overnight. As your Vivaro, but given that it has
a precaution, I would rinse the fluid from the vehicle bodywork, even though it the 1.9 engine, I am assuming
should not cause any harm to the paintwork. After the system has been sitting it is 2001-2007. The two most likely
overnight, run the rest of the sterilising fluid through the system and top up with possibilities are a fault with the engine
fresh screenwash and water. control module (ECM) or an injector.
Alternatives to using sterilising fluid are either a denture tablet dissolved in warm These vans did suffer issues with
water or else some white vinegar, although the vinegar may leave a pungent odour. throttle potentiometer problem, but this
would normally only account for a lack of
low or that the level indicator is faulty. response, not rough-running. Hopefully
FORD C-MAX As you have had the vehicle checked by a when you receive your fault code reader,
garage, we can hopefully assume that the it may help pinpoint the cause.
Handbrake fluid level is not low, but the continuity
of the level sensor should be checked.
In the meantime, I would carry
out an injector leak test to see if the
warning light The second possibility is that the

handbrake is not properly adjusted and
injectors are at fault. This is carried
out by removing the leak-off pipes on
the injectors and replacing them with
You were kind enough to offer is not sitting fully on the warning light
some suggestions about the faulty switch. Again, I would have expected a piece of tubing which is long enough
steering warning message on my this to have been detected by the to place into a pot or jar. The tube from
2008 Ford C-MAX 1.8 Zetec petrol. For garage, but the switch itself should be each injector should be placed into a
months now, I have had another intermittent checked using a continuity tester to separate receptacle, to catch any fuel
warning light for the handbrake/low brake ensure it is operating. that will run out during the test. Block
fluid. The garage has suggested the GEM The third possibility is that a short off the return pipe and crank the engine
module may be at fault. I didn’t know what has occurred somewhere in the loom. for around 60 seconds – if the engine
this was, but have discovered that it is This will involve methodical testing of starts, it can be allowed to run for a
alarmingly expensive. Unfortunately, the the wiring circuit. One point to check short time. The test should show if one
carefully worded warranty does not cover – as highlighted by Autodata – is the or more of the injectors is allowing an
this particular item. fascia fusebox/relay plate harness and excessive amount of fuel to bypass the
Andrew Webb multi-plugs. Damage can occur here injector. If the fuel in one or more of
due to water ingress from condensation the pots is greater than the rest, this
I am assuming that you have coming off the AC evaporator pipes. indicates a problem with the injector.
a conventional handbrake and The final possibility is that the fault When an injector fails in this way, it
not the electric version. From is within the ABS system. In some allows the line pressure to become too
the data I have, I think it is unlikely circumstances, errors in the ABS will low, preventing the injection system
that the GEM module is the source illuminate the red warning and not the from operating correctly.
of the warning light. There are four orange ABS warning light. Problems It’s also worth inspecting the
possibilities and I would systematically within the ABS system should be connecting plugs on the ECU, ensuring
work through each of these. detectable using a Ford diagnostic the terminals are clean and have no
The first is that the brake fluid level is system connected via the EOBD socket. signs of corrosion.

Help!
mean repeating work you have already need regeneration. I regularly use Red-X
VAUXHALL ASTRA carried out, but it is the only remaining every fourth or fifth tank of Shell.
Oil leak possible source of the leak.

I do remember a problem with the
oil pump-to-block gaskets which did
The handbook suggests there’s a fault
with engine electronics that’s triggering
‘limp-home’ mode, indicating heavy
I have an annoying oil leak from affect the diesel engine version, so the fuel use or alerting that a service is due.
my 2001 Vauxhall Astra MkIV gasket was changed from paper to steel There’s nothing unusual in performance
1.8 petrol with the Z18XE engine because of its tendency to fail. This may or economy and a service is not due – a
and 115,000 miles on the clock. The leak also apply to the petrol version. full service was done by a dealer only
developed on the timing belt side of the seven months ago at 74,704 miles. We live
engine, which, with the plastic undercover in a rural area and we don’t sit in traffic.
removed, proceeded to blow out through VAUXHALL VECTRA
We don’t drive many miles per year and
Flywheel change
the offside front wheel, covering the brake only take journeys of 20-30 miles at a
caliper in the process. This happened on time. As the car has such a low annual
a 24-mile journey and emptied up to one mileage and services are done on an
litre of oil – the dipstick was on ‘Max’ at I’ve got a Vauxhall Vectra 1.9
annual basis, I suspect the dealer failed
the start of journey and halfway between CDTi. Can I change my dual mass
to reset the service light, which is exactly
‘Max’ and ’Min’ at the end of the journey. flywheel and clutch for a solid
what happened on a previous Corsa C.
My initial thought was that the flywheel and clutch? Do you know anyone
I have done a pedal test – ie, held the
crankshaft oil seal had failed, as oil who supplies them?
brake and accelerator pedal down, then
appeared to be coming from the lower Phill Biggs
switched on the ignition without starting
area behind the rear timing cover, running the engine – but no codes appeared and
down and round the sump, then dropping nothing flashed. Does this test work on
onto the exhaust, as well as being blown the Corsa D?
out through the wheel. The crankshaft My only other suspect is a faulty glow
and camshaft seals have now been plug. The car starts perfectly, with perhaps
replaced, as well as the oil pressure sender, a very slight chugging for a couple of
and all seemed well while it was run up seconds. One glow plug was replaced last
to temperature and 2500rpm on the winter by a dealer.
driveway. But after a four-mile run, the area Keith King
was once again dripping with oil, albeit
slightly less than before. It appears to still As far as I am aware, the pedal
be coming from behind the rear timing test to retrieve codes should
cover, slightly above the crankshaft and oil Can you change a dual mass flywheel for a
work on the Corsa D, although
sender unit, and running down and round solid flywheel on the Vauxhall Vectra CDTi?
I have not tried this myself.
the rear of the sump onto the exhaust. The indicator lamp of a car with a
Suggestions have included checking the Without knowing the year of your
Vectra, it is impossible to say if a spanner is not a service light, but rather
head gasket and oil pump/gasket. As a new a malfunction indicator lamp indicating
timing belt kit was fitted when replacing conversion kit to a solid flywheel
is available. You can check on the there is a problem with the engine
the aforementioned seals, I am reluctant electronics and possibly the immobiliser
to remove them again to detach the rear availability by going to the Valeo site at
valeoservice.co.uk/en-uk and choosing system. This is different from the
timing cover (the retaining bolts are very standard EML, which has the generic
tight and difficult to remove when fitting the online catalogue option.
There were big discussions about engine symbol. The EML will show if any
seals). A new cam cover gasket was fitted of the engine sensors are faulty and this
the removal of DMFs a few years back,
prior to replacing the seals and the front of is the one which it should be possible to
with many claiming that the crankshaft
the engine is dry. The car got a new head read using the pedal test.
would be broken if the DMF were
gasket three years and around 12,000 Autodata informs me that there was a
removed. However, at the request of
miles ago, after the cambelt snapped. common problem with the Corsa D
a fleet operator, I converted quite a
Do these engines have any known failure which involved a poor connection
few vehicles using the Valeo kit and
point that would result in an oil leak? The between the throttle pedal position
can happily say that, over 100,000
car has always run smoothly with plenty sensor and the loom. For this reason,
miles later, no problems have been
of power and continues to do so. I would check the integrity of the
encountered. Valeo claims to shatter
Glen Redfern connection at this point.
DMF myths by offering a million-mile
guarantee, details of which can be found The glow plugs can be checked without
For the oil to reach the brake removing them by using an ohmmeter.
here: http://bit.ly/2E6ocd4
caliper, it does sound as though Disconnect the feed wire from across
it is coming out at force. If the the top of the glow plugs, then check
crankshaft seal was leaking, I would VAUXHALL CORSA the readings with one terminal of the
Spanner light
expect to find the oil soaking the cambelt ohmmeter on the feed terminal of the
area and cover. The oil pressure switch glow plug and the other on the body of
would be a likely source for the type of the glow plug. If the resistance is either
leak you have, but as you have already The ‘car with spanner’ service light very high or showing an open circuit, it
replaced that, this can be eliminated. comes on all the time in my 2012 indicates a fault. All glow plugs should
The oil filter housing is at the other Vauxhall Corsa D 1.3 CDTi. It does give the same or very similar readings.
end of the engine block, so the most not flash and ‘Insp’ does not appear at any If nothing is found during the above
likely reason for your unwanted oil leak time. The car drives extremely well and tests, it would be advisable to get the
is the oil pump housing-to-block gasket. recently did a fast 700-mile journey at 65+ codes read using a scanner. This should
I do appreciate that replacing this will mpg, so I would not expect the catalyst to pinpoint the exact cause of the problem.

Help!
Work carried out so far includes Alternatively, the problem may be

replacement of the idle control valve, the result of a failing fuel pump that
replacement of the thermal transmitter, is struggling to deliver the required
replacement of the inlet manifold gaskets pressure immediately. Unless you have
and replacement of all hoses adjacent to done so recently, I would also replace
the inlet manifold/throttle body. Genuine the fuel filter, although normally a
BMW 3-SERIES
BMW parts were used. problem with the filter or pump would
Poor cold Colm O’Brien
Given that you have already

cause symptoms at cruising speeds,
which you do not seem to have.
running replaced the components

I would have suggested, such
BMW X5
I own a 1990 BMW 316i with the as the coolant temperature sensor and
M40 engine. I have owned the car
for the past 20 years and it has now
idle control valve, I would next check
the crankcase breather – although
Automatic
covered 140,000 miles. No modifications
have been carried out, the vehicle is in
you have replaced the hoses, the small
plastic breather valve may be faulty. climate control
overall excellent condition and is now used This is easily tested by detaching the My 2005 BMW X5 3.0d is a recent
only perhaps one day per week. oil filler cap while the engine is running; purchase after owning a BMW 630i
The following problem has crept in over once removed, if the engine revs die Sport and is the seventh BMW I’ve
the past year. When starting from cold, the dramatically and you can detect a owned. I do all my own servicing based on
engine fires up immediately, but splutters sucking of air into the cam cover, this knowledge gained from reading CM.
and idles badly at only 600/700rpm. If you will proves the valve has failed. If this My problem concerns the automatic
open the throttle it is possible to slowly test above does not cause the engine climate control. I always run the system
increase the revs and then suddenly the revs to die or produce a rushing of in auto mode, but I need to select auto
engine bursts into life and idles evenly. air, then I suspect the cold running each time I start the car, as after full shut
However, the cold idle speed goes up to problems may be caused by a residue down and sleep mode, it defaults to the
1800rpm, which is too high. Despite the within the fuel injection system. screen clear setting. The blower seems to
high idle speed, when pulling away the In this case, I would try using a system be in auto mode and all functions work as
engine tends to hesitate a little. After a additive to clear the residue before intended, it’s just the memory from where
few miles, the idle speed starts to reduce, taking more extensive action. Something it was left that it forgets. The other fault
gradually settling down to an even 750rpm, like Wynn's Xtreme Petrol System Clean is with the blower function, which can be
and the engine performs satisfactorily. should help to remove the deposits that reduced to its lowest setting and switched
Hot starting is never a problem. may have built up over the past 25 years. off by one further press, but which
switches back on again on releasing the
button when it should stay switched off.
BMW 1-SERIES BBA Reman has said it will look at it and,
Swirl flaps
if it's repairable, would charge about £108,
but I could buy a secondhand one for less
on eBay. My main concern with fitting a
My 2008 BMW 123d recently displayed a fault code relating to the swirl used unit is that the BMW repair manual
flaps – I did not make a note of the exact fault. I deleted the code, expecting says a replacement AC panel would need
it to return, but it didn’t. The management light was not illuminated and coding to the car. Given the technology
there were no running problems – I was just checking my software after an update. is from the E38/39 era, surely obtaining
Having read some of the horror stories online concerning swirl flaps, I am a unit of the same part number would be
considering removing them and replacing them with a blanking plug. Am I likely to just plug-and-play? Do you think I could
encounter problems with the emissions or performance? Some people also mention get away with fitting a secondhand unit or
getting fault codes registered. would it throw the electronics into turmoil
Martin Marsland without being coded?
Mark Thompson
There are a host of codes
that could be associated The system should default to
with the swirl flaps, but auto mode when the ignition
let me first put your mind at is turned on, with the settings
rest: the swirl flaps on your 123d remembered. My BMW literature does
are a one-piece assembly and advise that the unit needs to be coded
not prone to the problems of after replacing the control panel, so this
the earlier M47TU and M57TU would seem to be the case. If you were
engines. It is very likely the to have the unit repaired it should not
code you had stored was due need recoding.
to swirl flap plausibility, which BMW heater units normally give few
could have been due to a sticking problems. However, one component that
motor. As the EML was not lit and does cause problems is the final stage
this was a stored code with no unit (FSU) or final stage resister, often
problems present, it may have been a one-off occurrence. referred to as 'the hedgehog' due to
I would monitor the situation and, if the code does return, note the actual its design. The fact that the blower will
code and let me know. I will then be able to give a more accurate diagnosis. switch back on after being turned off is
a classic symptom of FSU failure.

Help!
MERCEDES-BENZ SLK
Driver’s seat extension

MERCEDES C-CLASS Can I extend the driver’s seat runners in my 2003 Mercedes-Benz SLK?
Even when fully pushed forward, I don’t feel I’m close enough to the pedals.
Brake noise Anne Gill
There’s a knocking noise from the The seat runners are fixed to the floor at
front brakes on my Mercedes- specific locations to ensure the strength
Benz W202 C-Class in forwards of the fixing. While it may be possible to
and in reverse. I have fitted new discs and physically move the complete seat and runner
pads, but still have the noise. system forward, I believe this would require quite
Graham Moore an amount of alteration. One of the reasons for
the limited movement on the seat is that, if the
I am assuming that the noise airbag is deployed and the driver is too close to the
was there before replacing the steering wheel, it could result in injury.
brake discs and pads and has not It may help to buy a back rest, such as this one
changed as a result of the new parts. If from Argos at https://bit.ly/2JpJdG2,
this is the case, I would check that the which will push you slightly towards the One alternative to enable getting closer to the
noise is coming from the brakes and front of the seat. pedals would be a backrest such as this one.
not one of the suspension components.
A quick check for this would be to jack
up the vehicle and get an assistant to MERCEDES C180 MERCEDES-BENZ E320
depress the brake pedal while you turn
the road wheel backwards and forwards. If
you can recreate the noise, then the most
likely problem is a loose brake pad. As the
Automatic Emissions fail
pads are new, this may suggest a worn
carrier. A small application of brake grease
gearbox fluid My 2007 Mercedes-Benz
E320 W211 CDi estate (not
BlueEFFICIENCY) has failed its
on the contact surfaces of the brake pads I have a 1997 Mercedes-Benz C180.
The fluid for the automatic gearbox MOT on emissions. It would seem the
may be sufficient to silence the noise. emissions test limit has been reduced
If you cannot recreate the noise, the is Dextron lll, but my garage used
Comma Automatic Transmission + PSF from 3.0 to 0.90 l/min. The car’s mean
problem could be a worn swivel – either absorption coefficient tested at 2.65.
one of the top or lower swivels may have MVATF Plus semi-synthetic. Is it possible
to use fully-synthetic Comma Automatic Later it did pass, but I don’t know the
enough movement when braking to results. Do you have any thoughts on this?
create the noise. A distorted backplate is Transmission & PSF MVATF plus? The
car takes 6.6 litres, but you can only I am worried about next year’s test.
another common source of brake noise Gareth Owen
and it takes only a tiny contact point to drain four litres, leaving 2.4 litres in the
cause a loud sound. torque convertor and pipes; will the fully-
synthetic fluid mix with the semi-synthetic The emission level for your
fluid left in the system? Mercedes is 1.5 m-1 and the gov.
MERCEDES-BENZ C180 A Wray uk site states that the minimum
level should be 3.0 m-1 or the plate value,
Airbag light The official recommendation

for your C180 is A 001 989 77
whichever is lower. Although the MOT has
changed with regard to diesel emissions,
There is a fault with the interior 03, although Mercedes does this was in the form of visible smoke.
boot release in my 2004 Mercedes- also list other compatible oils, such I can see from the MOT history that
Benz C180. I pulled out all the fuses as RAVENOL ATF M 9-FE. The Comma your vehicle has covered 106,000 miles
out and found nothing amiss, but after oils do not appear in the Mercedes and that you normally cover around
putting everything back, the boot lock now listings, but according to my data, the 7000 miles a year, but this doesn’t
works but the airbag light is on. Do I need Comma Automatic Transmission & PSF indicate if you usually do short or longer
to reset the fault codes or have I got to go MVATF Plus is the correct oil for your runs. I would generally recommend the
back into the fuses and start again? transmission. As you say, when you vehicle is given a good run before being
David Watkins drain and refill the box there will be a presented for its MOT. This helps to
percentage of old oil left in the system. ensure the emissions are at the optimum
You have very likely disturbed While the transmission requires a level. If possible, it is a good idea to
one of the fuses for the SRS specific lubricant to satisfy the frictional ensure the engine is fully warmed up.
control module. This should be characteristics of the gearbox, as long As you mention that the car did later
simple enough to reset using a suitable as the oil is the correct specification pass the MOT, you haven’t given any
diagnostics scanner. If the light does then the semi-synthetic and synthetic details of remedial work. I suspect
not reset then you may have to inspect versions of the oil can be mixed the vehicle was given a run before the
the connections between the fuses and together. One good way to reduce the second exhaust readings were taken.
fusebox or the connecting plug. Also amount of oil left behind is to drain and If this is the case, I do not believe
check the front crash sensor, as this is fill the gearbox, run the vehicle, then you need to worry about future tests,
prone to problems, being right at the repeat the process. This will ensure the provided the vehicle is given a good run
front of the bonnet slam panel. majority of oil has been replaced. first and is at running temperature.

Help!
that was too short, which was causing the If there is a problem with the ABS unit,
brakes to hang on when the handbrake ecutesting.com can inspect and rebuild
is released. However, my garage has the it for you.
confirmed that the resistance on the Autodata informs me that there is a
wheels is still the same with the cable common problem with the rear brakes
MINI COOPER S disconnected, so the problem can only binding on your model of MINI, but this
be the hydraulics holding pressure or the is due to the routing of the handbrake
Illuminating pads being too tight in the carrier.
What could cause the hydraulics to lock
cables. As your brakes still bind with the
cables disconnected, this is not relevant.
problem only on the rear and on both sides? I’m

hoping it’s not an ABS fault, although no
warning lights are on. The tyre pressure
MINI COOPER
The passenger door interior light
warning light did illuminate, but I put this
that is housed within the internal
door opening handle recess in my
down to a difference in circumference
as the rear tyres need replacing and the
Diagnostic
2014 MINI Cooper S Countryman is not
working. All the others are fine. Looking
on the internet, there are various videos
fronts are still good.
Matthew Smith connector
When inspecting a secondhand
showing how to remove the doorcard,
As you have confirmed that MINI Cooper convertible, I was
but no information on how to replace or
the handbrake cables are not advised it was a Cat D write-off
access the filament bulb, which I assume
the cause of the problem, then with a replacement engine and the ABS
may be an LED. Any help or advice would
you need to establish if the friction and TPS lights were illuminated on the
be most welcome.
is being created due to sticking pads dashboard. I plugged in my Autel scanner,
Martin Hewitt
or unwanted pressure in the system but got nothing. So I got a torch and could
The bulb used in the internal door causing the brakes to apply. see that on top of the diagnostic socket
handle is an LED and, as such, The first point I will make is that the there was an extra wire scotch-locked into
is not replaceable as a separate split-braking system on your MINI works the wiring entering the socket. Otherwise,
unit. The bulb comes complete with diagonally, so any pressure applied from the engine runs well, the convertible hood
the handle assembly and should last a the master cylinder may also be acting has no issues, the leather is all good and
lifetime. It may be worth removing the on the opposite front brake. This means it’s got eight months of MOT. Any advice?
door panel to access the connection to if hydraulic pressure is acting on the Stephen Haywood
the interior light LED, which is via a small offside rear, it may also be applied to the
plug at the end of the ribbon type loom. nearside front. This is worth bearing in The first check to make is that
There is a possibility this connection has mind when testing the system and it may the diagnostic socket is wired
failed and, by unplugging and replacing be worth jacking up the front up to ensure correctly and ascertain why the
it, it may cure the fault. there is no binding of the front brakes. extra wire has been jumped into the
Testing the brakes to see if the loom. It may simply be there to take a
problem is due to hydraulic pressure is live feed off the circuit to power another
MINI COOPER easily done by jacking up and supporting component. The diagnostic socket
the vehicle, then spinning the wheel to should have seven wires connected
Binding brakes confirm the resistance present. Next,
open the bleed screw on the caliper and,
to terminals 1, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9 and 16. With
the wide section of the socket at the
Hoping you can give me some if pressure is being exerted through top and the terminals facing you, the
help on why the rear brakes on the hydraulic system, fluid will escape connections are numbered from left to
my 2006 MINI Cooper may be from the bleed screw and the pressure right starting on the top row. Terminal 1
binding. I have had the car for about will be released, allowing the wheel to is fed from the ignition, terminals 4
a month now and noticed a bill to the spin freely. If there is no change, then and 5 are a constant live feed, terminals
previous owner for stripping and cleaning the problem is because either the brake 7, 8 and 9 are the data links and
the rear brakes and a replacement pads or calipers are sticking. This may terminal 16 is a switched feed.
nearside handbrake cable. When I jacked be due to the slider pins or the pad As a starting point, I would disconnect
up the car and spun the rear wheels, edges, although I would have hoped that the joined wire, ensure that the live
they seemed a bit tight and only turned a when the garage replaced the calipers feeds are present and then re-attempt
couple of times before stopping. they checked the fit of the brake pads to code-read the vehicle. MINI wiring can
My local garage said the calipers were and the free movement of the slide pins. suffer from problems and it may be the
seized and the pads had worn a bit oddly, If the problem is due to the hydraulic case that the fault is with the main loom
so I let them replace them all, but the pressure, the test after securing the bleed running through the bulkhead on the
problem is still there. They also get hot screw and bleeding out if necessary, is to nearside of the vehicle. Check this loom
quite quickly – after around four miles, unbolt the master cylinder to see if this for any marks – particularly a brown
mainly in traffic, you can’t touch them and releases the pressure. If it does then the rust-type stain – that could indicate a
they are much hotter than the fronts. problem is very likely a faulty servo, which broken wire internally.
I seem to remember on CM’s MINI is applying unwanted pressure to the According to the gov.uk website, the
project a couple of years ago that you system. If it doesn’t release the pressure, MINI had a note on the MOT to ‘Repair
replaced the handbrake cables as the the problem may be in the ABS unit and as soon as possible (minor defects)’
ones on the car were aftermarket and I would find a garage capable of bleeding the ‘Offside front inner driveshaft
didn’t fit properly. I discovered that there the brake system using diagnostic joint constant velocity boot severely
are two different-length handbrake cables equipment to open the valves in the ABS deteriorated’. I would check this has
and I wondered if the garage that replaced unit while bleeding. This may then bring been rectified before any water gets
the cable for the previous owner fitted one to light or resolve any problem in the unit. into the joint.

Help!
HONDA CR-V
HONDA CIVIC Exhaust fumes in cab

I have a 2011 Honda CR-V i-DTEC 2.2 with 70,000 miles. When the car
Stuck ABS sensor is idling and stationary with cabin air recirculation switched off (ie, with
ventilation coming from outside), there is a smell of exhaust fumes in the
I have to replace the front nearside cabin. The smell goes away when driving or if I switch on the air recirculation.
ABS sensor on my 2002 Honda My trusted local garage said that there was nothing obvious leaking, although they
Civic, as it has gone open circuit. were unable to visually inspect the exhaust components because of the DPF heat
I’m worried about seized retaining bolts shield. They said they didn’t think it was the EGR valve pipework because, when that
and don’t want to end up having to drill fails, it emits a pulsed ‘pffft’ noise and they couldn’t hear this. They tightened up the
out a stuck sensor and risk damaging turbo hose, but said this was unlikely to be the cause. They suggested that whatever
the driveshaft. Could you recommend an it is will get worse and, at that point, it will be easier to diagnose. Meanwhile, I have a
effective penetrating oil? two-year-old daughter who I do not wish to subject to diesel exhaust fumes!
David Reid Is there anything you can suggest to help find the leak? My wife and I are both
competent home mechanics and we would be happy to undertake an investigation
One tip is to ensure that, to help diagnose the problem.
The EGR cooler pipe which has a
whatever penetrating oil you use, Chris Roberts
habit of cracking at the flexible area.
it is applied well in advance to
give it a good chance to soak in and do Any leak from the
its job. The penetrating oil that gets my exhaust would normally
vote is PlusGas (www.plusgas.co.uk). As be highlighted by an area
the sensor body is plastic, the only part of black smut around the leaking
that may get stuck with corrosion is the area. This does appear to be a common problem on the CR-V 2.2 and the most
securing bolt, so give it a good soaking a likely area of the leak is in the flexible section of the EGR valve pipe.
few hours before trying to remove it. There was an extended warranty in place for this failure and I would contact
your Honda dealer to check if this is still applicable. By entering your VIN number
(found on the V5) into the website https://bit.ly/2D7ENAm you can check for
HONDA CIVIC any recalls on your vehicle. Even if no recall is listed, this does not rule out the
Non-starting
possibility that a warranty on the EGR pipe will be honoured.
Letting the situation get worse is not a viable option with fumes entering the
vehicle, so this should be attended to as soon as possible. If the EGR pipe is not
My friend has a 2002 Honda Civic the culprit – although I suspect it will be – I would recommend that the DPF heat
1.6. Last week it suddenly shield is removed to allow a proper inspection of the exhaust system.
wouldn’t start. Prior to this the
car started and drove normally and had
If it makes no difference, the most
no problems. When you first turn on the
likely problem is the starter motor.
HONDA CR-V
ignition key all the ignition lights go on as
normal, but when you turn the key to start
it makes no sound, not even a click, and
there is no turning of the starter motor. All
This can be checked with a test light
or voltmeter. Place one terminal of the
test light or voltmeter to earth, then the
Oil service
other to the main feed terminal of the I have a 2013 Honda CR-V 2.2
the power features work and the battery is i-DTEC and want to do a 6000-mile
holding a full charge. There are no warning starter. This should be battery voltage
and will illuminate the bulb or display oil and filter change between the
lights indicating a fault and the car can
battery voltage on the meter. Next, with main 12,000-mile services carried out at
now only be bump-started, although it
one terminal still on earth, place the the Honda dealer. I have had the vehicle for
drives perfectly afterwards. Could the
other terminal to the small feed on the three years and carried out the last 6000-
problem be be a faulty starter motor or
starter solenoid and turn the ignition to mile oil and filter change using a Sealey
a bad earth connection?
the start position – the lamp or meter manual vacuum extractor via the dipstick
Also, can you tell me how to recode the
should now indicate battery voltage. If it tube. I now want to use the conventional
key-fob on a Peugeot 207? I renewed the
does, this confirms a starter fault. If no method of draining the oil via the sump
battery and the key-fob hasn’t worked
feed is present, the problem may be an plug to make sure that any debris/sludge
since. I think I was too slow to replace the
battery and now it needs recoding. ignition switch or loom fault and further is removed. What are the correct torque
Colin Askew testing in this area will be needed. settings for the sump plug and oil filter?
According to Autodata, the starter has Mark Day
With the Civic, the problem a relay fitted and this is at position
may be either a faulty starter number 1 in the interior fusebox. As you say, draining the oil from
motor or a broken engine earth. The key-fob for your Peugeot can be the sump will ensure that any
The possibility of a broken engine resynchronised as follows: using the contaminants in the oil have the
earth is easily tested by using a jump key that needs recoding, switch on the best chance of being removed during
cable between the battery’s negative ignition. Press and hold the lock button the oil change. The torque setting for
terminal and the engine. If the starter on the key for around 10 seconds, then the sump plug on your Honda is 40Nm
will operate after connecting the cable switch off the ignition and remove and the setting for the oil filter is 25Nm.
between the negative terminal and the key. The remote fob should now As you have changed the oil in the
the engine this will confirms that a new work and can be tested by locking and past, you will be aware that the sump
engine earth cable is needed. unlocking the vehicle. capacity is 5.5 litres.

Help!
MAZDA 323
MAZDA6
Warning bells Grinding noise
A friend has a 1987 Mazda 323
4x4 Turbo with 52,000 miles. It I can hear a vague grinding noise seemingly
has recently developed a snag coming from the front of my 2009 Mazda6.
under hard acceleration when a warning I opened all the windows to see if the noise was
bell sounds above 4000rpm, followed coming from the wheel bearing, but all I could hear was
by an engine cut-out. When the throttle road noise. I had a look underneath the car and all I could
is eased, the engine restarts and the car find was the snapped bracket from the sensor attached
drives normally. When it's driven gently to the rear offside suspension arm. I removed the wheel
under light throttle and accelerates more and found out that the link between the sensor and
slowly up to the legal limit, the alarm bracket had a seized balljoint due to a perished rubber
doesn’t sound. gaiter, which was allowing ingress of dirt and water.
Tony Jackson Am I right in thinking that the link is for the sensor
responsible for levelling the xenon headlights? Would
One of the more likely causes that explain the noise coming from the front of the car?
of this is that the ECU is I have searched on eBay for a new sensor, but there
detecting an over-boost from the weren't any listed, so I couldn’t compare. I also tried my
turbocharger, possibly due to a faulty local scrapyard, with no luck.
MAP sensor or wastegate actuator. Also, is it safe to drive with the arm of the sensor
From the data I have, the vehicle temporarily fixed to the suspension arm with a cable tie?
should have a six-pin data-link That’s what I have done while I sort it out.
connector under the bonnet; this Bartosz Kijanski
should be found near the strut top,
but locations can vary. Using a test Looking at the Mazda parts listing, the broken
lamp connected between terminals bracket does connect to the automatic
1 and 2, turn on the ignition and the headlamp alignment adjuster. It would appear
test light should illuminate for three the part number is GS1F-51-22YC, which comes as a complete assembly for
seconds before beginning to flash. Long £351.87. Provided you check that the headlamp aim is accurate, the car should
flashes will be the first digit and short be safe to drive around with the arm of the sensor secured by a cable tie.
flashes the second digit. If there are no
codes, the light will illuminate for three without it. No warning lights have come
seconds and then go off. Hopefully a on, so there are no codes to read.
code will be shown which should help in I can’t understand how can run fine for
the diagnosis of the problem. 10-12 miles, then lose power and stop.
Codes can be erased by disconnecting Then, when it has cooled down, it starts TOYOTA RAV4
the battery earth lead, pressing the again. I suspect it might be a crank angle
brake pedal for three seconds and then
reconnecting the battery.
sensor breaking down when hot – if that is
the case, can I just remove the old one and
Cylinderhead
MAZDA RX-8
do a straight swap or do I have to set any
timing before replacing the sensor? gasket renewal
Chris Barrett The head gasket has failed on
Losing power Even though you do not suspect
my 2007 RAV4 T180. It’s only
pressurising the header tank
I have a 2006 Mazda RX-8 192HP compression problems, I think slightly, so I’m hoping to just change the
with 99,000 kilometres. It was your first move should be to get head gasket – I’ll skim the head if required
running as sweet as a nut until a compression test carried out when – and rebuild it. Can you tell me if there
two weeks ago on a 50-mile run, when it the engine is hot. This will clarify the is anything I need to be aware of or do
suddenly lost power as if running on one situation and allow you to move on with you have any step-by-step advice? I am
rotor. After dropping down to 5mph in first the diagnosis. There is information on planning to leave the engine in as there
gear, it died and would not restart, but in the this subject on the RX-8 owner’s club appears to be enough room to carry out
morning it started first time. I decided to website at http://bit.ly/1wsRJ4f the job without removing it.
take it for a spin and it started losing power With the symptoms you have Jason Jamieson
again after 10-12 miles. In the morning it experienced, if the crank sensor were
started first time and revved freely. at fault I would have expected a code Like you, I would leave the engine
I am pretty sure it is not a compression to be flagged up. If you wish to change in the vehicle. The Autodata
problem as it had given no signs of this the crank sensor, it simply fits in place book time is 15.6 hours and
before now, always started hot or cold and no adjustments or checks to the this gives the necessary step-by-step
and pulled well in all gears. Having fitted timing are required. I would also check instructions, starting with removing
new plugs, coils and leads, I suspect the the vehicle’s data using a scanner to the engine and gearbox. The head
problem is a blocked cat. When I took a ensure that the air and coolant sensors gasket is listed as a known problem and
look, I found the insides had already been are giving the correct readings. These replacing it (checking the cylinderhead
knocked out – they do that here in Ireland, engines are also known to use a small when removed) should rectify your
as there is no emissions test on these cars amount of oil and the level should be problem. The maximum tolerance for
– and it had obviously been running fine checked to ensure it is not low. cylinderhead distortion is 0.05mm.

Help!
With a separate handbrake operating

TOYOTA COROLLA in its own drum within the disc, it is not
possible to gently apply this to eliminate
Have a
Brake pad rattle the rear brakes. One option would be to
have an assistant sit in the rear of the
problem vehicle?
Since the annual service of my
2006 Toyota Corolla, I have been
vehicle and try to pinpoint the noise GET IN TOUCH...
more accurately.
plagued by brake pad rattle and If you have a problem vehicle, Car Mechanics
have done various things to overcome it, has the answer in the shape of our technical
without success. I have done dozens of TOYOTA PRIUS editor STEVE ROTHWELL. Contact Steve, as
brake services and only use a light coat detailed below, for FREE advice on all car-
of copper grease, but have never had
problems like this before. I can drive from
Clearing the related problems. Please help Steve to help
you by giving as much information on the
symptoms as you can.
cold for about three to four miles as normal,
then the rattle kicks in and just builds as
things get hotter. I am fairly sure it’s from
engine light As Help! is a free service, some complex
questions may require more time and
Is there any way of clearing the
the front brakes, but before doing anything resources than we can reasonably allow –
engine warning light on my 2006 when this is the case we will let you know.
more expensive I wanted to ask if you know Toyota Prius without taking the car
of any trade tricks I can use to prove if its to a dealer? Steve will reply to all queries as
only the front pads or the rears as well? Alan Forshaw quickly as possible, but please allow up
Will Trowell to 28 days for a reply. Difficult/complex
Your Prius has to comply with questions or those requiring research may
Very often a brake rattle or take a little longer – please be patient.
European legislation with regards
squeal will be caused by a worn to the on-board diagnostics Neither H Bauer Publishing nor Steve
or tired squeal shim or retainer. system (OBD). This means that any basic Rothwell can accept any liability for loss,
Different makes of brake pads also vary EOBD scan tool should be able to read damage or injury resulting from replies to
slightly in design and construction, some and clear fault codes, extinguishing the readers’ queries.
being coated with anti-squeal material. engine management light. The Foxwell To access web addresses starting with
There is a brake pad fitting kit NT200 costs £38.95 including delivery http://bit.ly just type these into your
available for your vehicle here: and, at less than the cost of half-an- browser address line, rather than the search
http://bit.ly/Cm6BpA2, which consists hour of main dealer’s labour, should engine and they should work as intended.
of new retaining clips; this may silence
the rattle. Another option would be to
soon pay for itself. Knowing the actual
cause of the fault will offer a far better  WRITE (enclosing a SAE):
fit a shim set such as this one: opportunity to fix the problem and HELP! QUERIES
http://bit.ly/2cM3s7b prevent it from reoccurring. CAR MECHANICS
BAUER MEDIA, MEDIA HOUSE,
LYNCHWOOD
TOYOTA AYGO PETERBOROUGH PE2 6EA
Spare wheel option  E-MAIL:

carmechanicshelp@yahoo.co.uk
I have a Toyota Aygo that I got from new through a scrappage deal, which
has no spare wheel but does have a spare wheel well which could hold one. Please include your postal address
The vehicle has 15in alloys and they cost £80, so would I have the option of
getting a spare steel wheel or would they be a different size?
I would also like your advice on battery charging as the manual doesn’t cover Sourcing vehicle manuals
this, only connecting jump leads. I have heard about a booster device that can be  Most CM readers will know that
plugged into the lighter socket and supply enough voltage to save the radio code. Haynes publish the bibles for automotive
I always removed the battery on my mechanics with their authoritative line of
previous vehicle, but this one will have owners workshop manuals. The Haynes
different instructions. website at Haynes.com should always
W Williamson be your first port of call when searching
for a manual. And if there isn’t a specific
manual available for your particular model,
I have found an online website
it’s worth checking whether your engine
(thewheelshop.co.uk; was fitted to any other vehicles, as this will
tel 0161 302 5656) currently
The CTEK MXS 3.8 charger. give you basic servicing and maintenance
selling an Aygo spacesaver spare advice. It’s also worth emailing Haynes and
wheel for £74.95, which may be the best option for you. asking if they have a manual in the works
To operate the battery saver device that saves the radio code normally for your vehicle. And bear in mind that
requires another battery connected to it. Similar but more efficient devices Haynes are now producing video tutorials
are those that connect to the EOBD socket – these are preferable as often the for various makes and models.
lighter socket will not operate without the ignition in the accessory position. Failing that, you may be able to find
a workshop manual online that you can
From the details I have, your Toyota Aygo should not require the input of a
download. Although there are a number
radio code after disconnecting the battery. I am assuming you wish to charge of sites offering this service, care must be
the battery due to low usage of the vehicle. If this is the case, I recommend using taken to find a reliable source. We have
a charger such as the CTEK MXS 3.8, which can be fitted to your vehicle without found the website emanualonline.com is a
the need to disconnect the battery. trusted source of digital manuals.

Steve Rothwell answering your engine management queries
FORD StReetKa
Burble at idle
I have a burble at idle in the exhaust and a popping and
banging noise when letting off the accelerator of my 2005
Ford StreetKa with the 1.6 Endura E engine. The car does
not have a rough idle, no hesitation on acceleration or misfires
and, according to my Foxwell NT301, there are no fault codes.
I have replaced the air filter, fuel filter, plugs, coil (I changed the
coil leads at same time), engine temperature sensor and both
Lambda sensors. I also replaced a fuel injector that was recording
lower than others. I checked for air leaks by spraying carb cleaner I intended to try and clean the air flow monitor and idle control
and listening for changes in engine note and have cleaned the valve behind the inlet manifold, but I am not convinced this would
air intake carb. I also had a look at the ECU because I read about resolve things.
connections getting rusty, but can see no evidence of this and the Colin Chadwick
pop rivet is still in place showing it has not been disturbed.
I have access to live data on my Foxwell NT301, but this means The popping or burbling from the exhaust may be caused
nothing as I have no stats to compare other than that it idles by an excess of unburned fuel entering the exhaust and
at 897rpm. When warm and no accelerator applied it can have being ignited on exit. The ECU may have been remapped
a lumpy idle for a few seconds or struggle to catch on starting. to alter the ignition, which might account for the burbling and for
When I bought the car, it did have a performance back box which the running temperature being higher than expected. It is difficult
I removed, thinking it would solve the popping and banging. I am to check if an ECU has been remapped – some companies may
now wondering whether my ECU had been programmed to use leave a sticker on the ECU, but many don’t. The only way to be
this, but how would I tell? I have checked the exhaust for leaks and sure would be to take the vehicle to either a remapping company
it does not look like a performance system. or a main dealer to get the ECU checked. It’s also possible a
I have also noticed it gets very hot quickly and the fan cuts modified camshaft has been fitted, altering the valve timing.
in and out regularly even on cool days, but I have changed the Before checking about any tuning modifications, I would
thermostat and have no leaks on the coolant side, so maybe this perform a cylinder compression check to ensure a burnt valve
is a characteristic of the engine. I haven’t monitored the mpg, but is not the source of the burbling, although if this was the case
I’m getting about 200 miles to the tank driving locally. I would have expected a misfire to be present.
RenaULt megane The dephaser pulley as

fitted to the Megane.
Poor starting when cold
On cold mornings my 2006 both at a cold start and the readings lack of ignition.
Renault Megane 1.6 petrol cranks were accurate. I used the live data on my This may be for a
for a long time and doesn’t fire Foxwell NT614 and the CTS was 8°C and couple of reasons
easily. The battery is quite new, so the the IAT was 4°C, so the car knew it was and the first simple check I would
engine spins and spins quickly on the cold. I watched the CTS readings go up as make is that the spark plugs are in
starter and will cough and splutter into the engine warmed and the readings were good condition. After confirming that
life if I press the accelerator pedal while plausible. I can only find one CTS on this the plugs are not the problem, then the
cranking – you have to operate the engine and it has two wires – is it shared trouble could be with the crankshaft
brake pedal while pressing the engine with the dashboard temperature gauge? sensor. This sensor is a common failure
start button on this model. At warmer John Hardy point and is affected by temperature.
temperatures, the engine starts up OK I have even heard of mechanics using
but doesn’t settle into a nice idle until I’ve There is only the one CTS, a hair dryer to warm up the crankshaft
revved the engine a couple of times. For and as you have checked the sensor before starting the engine!
the first mile or so of driving, the engine reading with both the coolant Finally, there were a couple of
feels very flat without any power, but after and air temperature sensors these can different versions of the 1.6 engine and
this time the engine runs and drives fine. hopefully be discounted. As the engine you have not mentioned if yours has
There is quite a strong smell of petrol does emit some petrol vapour when variable valve timing. If it does then
and white vapours from the exhaust starting, it would also appear that the you may be suffering from a dephaser
when it does eventually fire from cold. injection system is working, along pulley problem. The dephaser pulley
My initial thoughts were a problem with the cold start system. The petrol normally emits a knocking noise at
with the coolant temperature sensor or vapours would suggest that the engine start-up if it is failing, but this may not
the air temperature sensor, but I checked may be flooding, which suggests a be the case.

Diagnostics Doctor
ROVER 75
Fuel pressure worry

I recently bought a 2002 Rover 75
diesel with the BMW M47R engine Diagnostics Doctor
and the mileage at present is
Diagnostics Doctor is a FREE helpline
37,000. To get it ready for its MOT, I replaced service for CM readers – including
the upper and lower suspension arms on trade readers – who are struggling with
the rear, which seem to be a common rust diagnostic/engine management related
point. I have also serviced the engine by faults. Steve Rothwell will answer all
changing all the filters, including the crank your queries. He will need as much
case breather filter, which was originally the detail as possible:
gauze type and was black and blocked, for MAKE, MODEL, YEAR and ENGINE
a new BMW plastic filter. CODE of your vehicle, and the type
The P-Scan device which should be able to of management system installed
I decided to take the car for a long retrieve codes from earlier Rover models. Obviously, Steve will not be able to
run after it passed the MOT, but after we assess the vehicle up close, so his
stopped for a break and I returned to the car, it would not start. It just kept turning answer will be on the basis solely of
over and not firing. I waited for five minutes and tried it again, with the same result. your description. This is a FREE service
I lifted the bonnet to have a look for anything obvious, found nothing, got back in and it may take some time to respond
the car and it started on the first turn. I stopped again about four times and the to certain problems. If you would like
engine always started first time. A day later, I drove a short distance, stopped to go to receive a personal response via post,
into a shop, came back and it wouldn’t start. please enclose an SAE.
I also have a 2001 Land Rover Freelander with the same engine and have Write to:
experienced a similar problem. I got a local mechanic to connect his Snap-On DIAGNOSTICS DOCTOR
diagnostic tool and, while I can’t remember the exact fault, it indicated low fuel CAR MECHANICS
pressure. The mechanic knocked the lift pump and the car started immediately. So BAUER MEDIA, MEDIA HOUSE
it’s possible my Rover 75 has the same problem. Is there a diagnostic tool available LYNCHWOOD
for this car and what are your thoughts on what might be causing this problem? PETERBOROUGH
Bill Kerr PE2 6EA
e-mail:
EOBD compliance came into force on diesel vehicles in 2004, which cmdiagnostics@yahoo.co.uk
means that your 2002 Rover is unlikely to be compatible with most
modern tools. However, the system uses the EDC15C4 protocol and one
tool that would work is the Sykes Pickavant ACR4 with the correct pod installed. Common abbreviations
These are still quite an expensive option even if you are lucky enough to find a
secondhand unit, as they sell for around £250. ATS Air Temperature Sensor
One other option is this device from pscan.uk, which was designed by a Rover AFM Air-Flow Meter – not a MAF type (see below).
enthusiast and sells for £154 plus postage. I have not tested this unit personally, It could be, for example, a vane type
so this is only a suggestion and not a recommendation. CAS Crank Angle Sensor
With regard to the possible reason for the non-starting when hot, the sensors CPS Crank Position Sensor
that could cause such a situation are the crankshaft sensor or the coolant CTS Coolant Temperature Sensor
temperature sensor, with the crankshaft sensor being the most likely. You will ECT Engine Coolant Temperature
find it just below the starter motor. ECU Electronic Control Unit
EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation – meters exhaust
gas back to the intake manifold
PEUGEOT 407 EML Engine Management Light
EMS Engine Management System
Throttle reaction EPC Electronic Power Control

FCR Fault Code Reader
My 2006 Peugeot 407 2.7 V6 HDi auto is showing fault code ‘P0405, EGR A sensor HT High Tension – ignition output to the spark plugs
low’. The car starts and idles fine, and provided no more than about the first 3cm IAV Idle Air Valve
of throttle travel is used, it will pull and accelerate strongly. Any further application ISCV Idle Speed Control Valve – usually operated by
of the throttle pedal, all the way to the floor, results in absolutely nothing happening. a motor controlled by the ECU
There is no rise in revs or acceleration and no kickdown of the gearbox. Relaxing the pedal LOS Limited Operating Strategy – if the ECU detects
a malfunction, it runs a programme to allow the
to almost-closed results in power returning. Is this all because of the EGR issue? car to still go, but at reduced efficiency
John Wren MAF Mass Air-Flow meter
MAP Manifold Air Pressure
One of the more common reasons for the code ‘P0405 Exhaust gas recirculation
MIL Malfunction Indicator Lamp
(EGR) valve position sensor A – low input’ is not the valve itself, but the wiring
PCV Positive Crankcase Ventilation – takes crankcase
to it, possibly due to a poor connection or bad earth. These points should be gases and recycles back to the inlet system
checked first before replacing the valve. In theory, this code does not generally result in TBPS Turbo Boost Pressure Sensor – used by the
the symptoms you are experiencing, but as this is the only code you have it’s possible the ECU to regulate turbo output
fault is related to a poor earth connection to the sensor possible causing wider problems. TPS Throttle Position Sensor
Autodata also informs me of a common problem due to the engine wiring harness VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor
being broken near the air filter assembly. This gives similar symptoms to yours, so it WOT Wide Open Throttle
would be worth checking the loom to ensure this is not the case.

Back to Basics: AIR FILTER RENEWAL
ENGINE SERVICING
Air filtration
Rob Hawkins explains
the importance of air
filtration and how an
air filter and induction
system should be
correctly serviced.
O
ne of the most seemingly
straightforward servicing
jobs on a vehicle is to renew
the air filter. Or is it? Blocked
induction pipework, split hoses,
detached electrical plugs and fiddly air
filter housings are some of the issues
that can slow you down.
housing). Air filtration specialist K&N of the engine bay, a cold air feed is
measured the speed of this drawn air and fitted to ensure cooler and denser air is
Induction system calculated that it travels at around 6mph. drawn – the denser the air, the greater
On most vehicles, the induction system The drawing of air into the engine is its oxygen content, which is essential for
consists of a panel filter inside a plastic quite noisy, so some induction systems combustion. A hose or pipe between a
housing with pipework to and from it. are equipped with a resonator box to hole in the front grille or bumper helps to
It is designed with several purposes in muffle or absorb the noise. This usually direct air from outside the engine bay and
mind, not just to feed fresh air into the consists of a plastic or composite into the air filter. On some vehicles, the
engine. It needs to help draw sufficient container that’s attached to the induction cold air feed is located around the lower
air to be able to pass it through an air pipework. So if an induction system is half of the front bumper, which can result
filter to remove any dirt, then direct noisy, it may be due to a problem with in disaster should you drive through deep
the air into the engine via the throttle the resonator box (for example, if it water. If water gets drawn through the
body. The means of drawing or sucking has fractured or become detached) or a cold air feed and into the air filter, it will
the air in is the job of the engine. When detached induction hose or pipe. In the also be sucked into the engine, potentially
a piston moves down its cylinder bore, case of turbocharged engines, a detached causing it to ‘hydraulic’ and fail.
its respective inlet valve opens, creating boost pipe can result in loss of power. The following pages provide some
a vacuum that draws air in through Another potential problem area general guidance on renewing an air
the inlet manifold and whatever else concerns the pipework that draws air filter, examining reusable air filters and
is attached to it (plenum, throttle into the air filter housing. With most outlining the potential problems that can
body, induction pipework and air filter air filters located in the warm confines arise when replacing an air filter.
AIR FILTER RENEWAL  This may sound obvious but,

1 in some cases, locating the air
filter isn’t that easy. Our photograph
shows the engine bay for an Alfa
147 GTA and there’s no sign of an air
filter, just a small resonator box and a
hose and pipe from the throttle body
to the nearside front corner of the
engine bay.
 If an air filter is hidden away

2 inside an engine bay, it may be
possible to access it from underneath.
If not, any pipework between it and its
throttle body will need to be detached
and removed by undoing clips (quick-
release, spring or Jubilee).

The majority of air filters are

If the induction pipework needs to Some air filters, such as the one shown 5 contained inside an easy-to-access
3 be removed to access the air filter, 4 here for our Alfa 147 GTA, are hidden housing, whereby the lid of the housing
electrical plugs for the mass air flow inside the front of the engine bay, requiring needs to be released to extract and renew
(MAF) and/or intake air temperature (IAT) several fittings to be detached before the the filter. Some lids are secured with spring
may need to be detached. filter can be accessed and removed. clips, while others have a series of screws.
 In many cases, it won’t

6 be necessary to undo and
remove the induction pipework
attached to the air filter housing
to renew the filter. If pipework is
secured to the lid of the housing,
it may be possible to lift it and
carefully pull out the old filter.
 Some air filters are conical,

7 such as those fitted to larger-
engined vehicles including the Nissan
Navara and Mitsubishi Shogun. The
filter is usually contained inside a
tin housing with a lid that can be
unclipped to access it.
 After removing an old air
8 filter from its housing, it’s
important to look inside and make
sure it’s clean. Dirt, leaves and other
debris will contaminate the new
air filter, so remove all traces from
inside the housing using a cloth or
vacuum cleaner and soft brush.
 If the old air filter appears

9 to be in good condition, it may
be worthwhile reusing it. The service
interval of many air filters is around
30,000 miles, although they should
be inspected and, if necessary, gently
cleaned using a vacuum cleaner.
When fitting a new panel filter, make Make sure all electrical plugs, breather After renewing the air filter and
10 sure the rubber seal around its edge 11 pipes and hoses are securely refitted. 12 reassembling the induction system
sits flush and inside the air filter housing. Avoid overtightening Jubilee clips around (if dismantled), run the engine and listen
This will help to refit the lid of the housing rubber hoses as they can cut through the for air leaks around the filter housing and
and ensure an airtight seal is achieved. rubber and cause an air leak. pipework. Raise the revs to help locate leaks.

VOLKSWAGEN TOUAREG V10 AIR FILTER
There are two panel air filters on the

1 Touareg’s V10 diesel engine – one on
each inner wing. It’s worthwhile removing Detach the two spring clips at the top
the pipe between the intercooler and 2 Extract the old panel filters, clean
turbo on each side of the engine bay to
of each air filter housing to release the
lid, pull out the large feed pipe at the front
3 inside the housings to remove any
get better access to the air filter housings. (extract the two long plastic plugs first), dirt, then slide the new ones into position.
Each pipe is attached with quick-release then lift out the lid. On the offside, detach a Each lid is slotted in place at the base and
clips – use a screwdriver to undo them. breather pipe at the back of the lid. secured with the two metal clips at the top.
OTHER JOBS 1  The cold feed pipework to the

air filter can get blocked with
dirt, leaves and other debris, so it’s
worthwhile detaching it, if possible, and
washing it or cleaning it through with
a vacuum cleaner. This will reduce the
risk of dirt contaminating the air filter.
 The feed pipe between the air

2 filter housing and the throttle
body can be long, as with the one shown
here for a Mazda MX-5, so make sure it’s
securely fitted so there’s no chance of it
moving and becoming detached.
 If an intake air temperature
3 sensor is fitted into the side of the
air filter housing, as with the one shown
here, make sure it’s securely attached
with no risk of air leaking through. Some
are slotted into a rubber grommet with
no other means of securing them.
 Look for cracks in the induction
4 pipework and hoses which will
draw air in, thus increasing noise and
bypassing the air filter. This was a
problem on our Alfa Romeo GT project,
where a corrugated section of induction
pipework had to be taped up (circled) as
new replacements are hard to find.
REUSABLE AIR FILTERS
NEXT
ISSUE
We cover
everything
from headlight
Reusable panel filters and other shapes of air filters are available as a straight swap for a standard disposable washers to rear
filter on most vehicles. Filtration specialists such as K&N, Green, ITG and Pipercross can supply a range of filters. wipers, revealing
In most cases, they promise a little extra performance (2-3bhp), but the main advantage is that the filters can be useful service
reused and often only need a wash after 50,000 miles. tips and repairs.

Electronic FORD
KA
Diagnostics
Tracing and fixing faults in electronic engine management systems
II
1.2
Kim Henson and Edward Haggar take

diagnostic look at a 1.2-litre Ford Ka with
the Fiat-developed FIRE engine.
F
ord’s boldly-styled Ka three-door hatchback arrived in 1996 as the
smallest car in the company’s line-up. Second-generation models were
introduced in 2008, with more a conventional appearance and produced
in Poland by Fiat for Ford. For this feature, we are looking closely at
a second-generation Ka, first registered in November 2012, fitted with Fiat’s
1.2-litre FIRE engine, but with the power unit badged as a Ford Duratec.
FIRE stands for Fully Integrated Robotised Engine and Fiat developed it in the
All references in our text and captions to left
mid-1980s to provide a conventional, reliable and efficient overhead camshaft and right’ sides are from the point of view of
unit. Since then, they have been produced in a variety of capacities, with early uses someone sitting in the car and looking ahead.
including powering contemporary Uno and Panda models. They are reliable engines
that have stood the test of time and are especially easy to maintain.
Our guide to the diagnostic aspects of our Ka and its Magneti Marelli IAW 5SF8 Fault 1
management system is Edward Haggar.
OXYGEN SENSOR
Preparation HEATER CIRCUIT
These Fiat-powered Kas are a doddle quality components when servicing FAILURE
to service, so there’s no excuse for not the car. Note that, on this engine, the Our first fault presents itself with a
frequently changing the various fluids valve clearances are not hydraulically- vehicle that will run fine, but a warning
and filters. Diligent attention in this controlled but need to be checked and light will be triggered. Carrying out a
regard will be repaid by longer engine adjusted manually. basic fault code check, even using a low-
life and increased reliability. Always Even jobs that are often considered cost EOBD reader, will show the fault
use the engine oil type recommended difficult are straightforward on this Ford, code ‘P0030 heater oxygen sensor heater
by Ford, and use Original Equipment- including clutch and cambelt changes. circuit bank 1 circuit malfunction’.
1242cc 4-cylinder 8v petrol Tool of choice

THROTTLE BODY u The Snap-on SOLUS Edge
INJECTORS & diagnostic tool is very effective for
SPARK PLUGS this Ka and also works well with other
MOUNTED IN REAR makes and models. However, in terms
OF CYLINDERHEAD of routine diagnostic assessment,
much can be achieved on this model
using a regular multimeter.
STRUT POINT
CAMSHAFT SENSOR
FUSEBOX
ECU IMPORTANT
EARTH LEAD
AIR FILTER OXYGEN

HOUSING SENSOR THANKS TO Andrew Tame, owner
of the Ka shown in our photographs.
www.grea magaz nes.co.u carmechanics November 2019 Car Mechanics 81

Electronic Diagnostics Ford Ka II 1.2
Engine management The Magneti Marelli IAW 5SF8 management system used
on this Ford incorporates these primary components:
 Coolant temperature sensor  Underbonnet fusebox with relays  Twin-plug ECU
 Mass absolute pressure  Inductive crank sensor  Fuel pump mounted as part of
(MAP) sensor (Note: On stop-start versions
sender in tank
there is a digital sensor)
 Digital cam sensor  Accelerator pedal with position
 Pre- and post-catalyst oxygen/
 Fly-by-wire throttle body O2/Lambda sensors sensor mounted on it
Essentially the ECU is sensing a fault in Replacement of the sensor requires We recommend fitting good quality
the heater, which lies within the oxygen either a special socket or spanner. replacement sensors because cheaper
sensor heater circuit line. It’s worth either running the engine items don’t last as long.
The oxygen sensor is located directly for a while to warm things up or else
in the exhaust manifold with a four-pin applying a suitable penetrating fluid to
plug connector. Simply disconnect the aid removal. Sometimes the threads in
Fault 2
connector and, with your multimeter set the manifold will strip when removing
to 'ohms', connect against the two grey the sensor. To overcome this problem
CAMSHAFT POSITION
wires. You will likely see no reading, you can try cleaning the threads with a SENSOR FAILURE
which indicates an internal open circuit suitable tap or employing a thread insert With this problem, the vehicle may
within the sensor. such as a Helicoil. suffer from extended cranking and poor
Typical Ford Ka II components
The high-tension ignition leads (visible in the centre of this Here’s the location of the camshaft sensor, hidden beneath
1 photograph) are prone to deterioration as they age, resulting 2 the upper section of the cambelt cover. This sensor monitors
in misfires. Closely inspect the leads and always treat them with the camshaft position and feeds the information to the ECU, which
care when handling to minimise the chance of damage. uses it to determine ignition and fuel injection timing.
The mass absolute pressure The fuel injectors are hidden away at
3 (MAP) sensor is found on the inlet 4 the top rear of the engine. They are This shot shows the pre-catalytic
manifold, at the rear of the engine. Its conventional solenoid types and renewal is
5 converter oxygen/O2/Lambda sensor,
function is to send to the ECU information straightforward. However, always renew the located near the top of the engine. Assess
on the pressure within the inlet manifold, O-rings with the injectors, since even a small the physical state and security of the sensor,
enabling the ECU to calculate and apply leak can cause issues. No coding is required ensuring that the electrical cable and
correct fuelling levels. when fitting new injectors. connections are sound and secure.

starting, but when started the car will might not pick this up properly. We had to deal with one example in
usually drive fine until stopped again. The sensor is simply held in place via which the cable looked perfectly fine
Carrying out a diagnostic check will a single bolt (10mm spanner size). from the outside but, when cut open, was
show fault codes relating to camshaft badly covered in green corrosion.
position. In effect, the ECU isn’t seeing When testing this, apply a simple volt
a suitable signal, hence the extended
Fault 3 drop check on the earth lead – ie, from
cranking because the ECU is triggered the battery’s negative terminal to the
via the crank position.
POOR BATTERY end of the lead’s earth point. A reading of
A first quick check, if available on EARTH CONNECTION about 0.50 volts indicates the cable is OK.
your tester, is to look at the live data for When this fault occurs the driver will As a rule of thumb, the higher the voltage
crank/cam correlation. This compares experience non-starting. It is also here, the higher the level of corrosion.
the crank and cam timing to see if the possible that, when diagnostically Most motor factors can supply a new
timing has jumped – bear in mind that a assessing the car, there will be no lead and it’s worth coating it with grease
loose cambelt could flag the same codes, connection with the ECU via a code to prevent the fault reocurring.
although this happens only rarely. reader. Some car owners will replace
An oscilloscope is the best tool for the battery and starter motor, only to
checking the Hall Effect-type sensor, find the fault remains.
Fault 4
incorporating a 5-volt supply, earth and A quick test here is to wiggle the earth
signal. We have found that connecting wire. This usually brings the engine back
CARELESS SPARK
a multimeter to the signal wire and to life, albeit only temporarily. PLUG REMOVAL
cranking the engine will show no signal, The fault lies with the earth lead from When replacing spark plug number four,
but some less sophisticated meters the battery, which can corrode internally. you need to take care. The plugs sit at
Adjacent to and just to the right of the The throttle body assembly is located
7 8
6 The post-cat sensor is positioned low
down towards the bottom of the power
battery is the ECU. It is held in place by
four nuts (10mm spanner size) and features
at the top of the engine, towards the
rear of the engine bay. If internal cleaning
unit – the connector plug/socket assembly two connector plug assemblies. Check for of the assembly and its operating flap is
is being indicated in the photo. Check the moisture ingress, physical deterioration and required, use purpose-made cleaner and
sensor and the cable and connector. connection security. apply it carefully using a soft brush.
The conventional lead-acid battery needs There's a vital earth connection

9 11
to be in tip-top condition. Check that the
cables and connectors are clean and securely
10 Acheck
useful test is to use a multimeter to
for any voltage drop between the
point on the inner wing panel on the
left-hand side of the engine bay. Ensure the
attached. If the battery retaining clamp battery earth terminal and the vehicle body. connection is clean and secure. If in doubt,
assembly is corroded, it is wise to remove and Any increase in voltage indicates corrosion or dismantle the joint, clean and reassemble
clean the clamp and lubricate its threads. deterioration in the cable or its connections. it, then coat it with silicone grease.

Technical specs
a slight angle and can be tight. When worth inspecting the strut top assembly Actual values
taking out number four it has been on the driver’s side of the car. You will Component Value
known for the spanner to slip or jolt and notice that it sits directly below the Fuel injector 15 ohms
break the corresponding fuel injector. scuttle, so rainwater runs onto it and Cam sensor
sits in the bowl with the top strut nut, supply voltage 5 volts
eventually corroding it badly. Serious Cam sensor signal 0-5 volts
Fault 5 corrosion here can make the job of switching
changing the struts/springs horrendous Oxygen sensor
FRONT SUSPENSION if the nut has seized. heater circuit 7.2 ohms
STRUT TOP CORROSION Whenever servicing a Ka, dry out any Ignition coil
This fault does not involve electronics. pooling water and apply a good coating primary resistance 0.8 ohms
When working under the bonnet it is of grease and/or fit a plastic cap.
Typical Ford Ka II components
The underbonnet fuse/relay box is When refitting the plastic cover to

13 found on the left-hand side of the 14 the fuse/relay box, it is essential to
The ABS pump and its ECU. Regular/ engine compartment, adjacent to the inner correctly engage the two locating lugs built
12 frequent visual inspection is advised wing and towards the rear. Check carefully for into the cover on the bulkhead side. Failure
as the ECU is exposed to heat and vibration any signs of moisture ingress, which will play to do this may result in rainwater getting
in its vulnerable underbonnet location. havoc with the circuitry. into the box.
While not part of our electronic The diagnostic socket is located on

15 17
diagnostics procedure, we
recommend that, at each service, you
16 Normally hidden by a plastic cover
panel is the car’s interior fusebox,
the right-hand side of the fascia and,
when not in use, it is concealed by a plastic
should remove the plastic caps from the located on the left-hand side of the fascia. cover panel. Here, the connecting cable of
strut tops and apply grease to the strut top Check it for cleanliness and security, and the Snap-on SOLUS Edge tool is in place for
threads, because corrosion is common here. watch for any signs of water ingress. diagnostic interrogation.
 Here, we are ready

18 to use the SOLUS Edge
equipment to give a full health
check on the vehicle. The
tool is capable of providing
the operator with a wealth of
information, including live data,
about the management system.
 This screenshot of the
19 SOLUS Edge is showing
live data relating to oxygen/O2/
Lambda sensor operation. The
ability to see live data like this
is invaluable in a wide range of
diagnostic tests to establish
how well the car is running.

MAGNETI MARELLI CIRCUIT DIAGRAM www.autodata-group.com

30
15
og
bl
rt
X28-II E B X28-I A
11 16 79
F18
F1 5A F16 F22 F11 F17 F21
60A 7,5A 5A 15A 10A 10A 15A
K46 K20
A11 K4
30 85 30 86 86 30
K143
K12-II
A5
K12-I
H63
87 86 85 87 85 85 85 85 87 87a
F51 F37
7,5A 5A
A75
6 5 9 10 45 44 18 20 23 19 25 27 25 4 27 7 1 18 66 68 5 12 59 62 60 61 42 43 28 27 51 50 49 48 8
E E B B D D D D D D C C B C A B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B
ws
ws
sw
sw
sw
CAN-H gn
CAN-H gn
ws sw
gn ws
og ws
ws gn
og sw
og sw
ge sw
CAN-L br
CAN-L br
ge gn
gn og
bl
bl
bl
bl sw
bl sw
bl gn
og bl
bl gn
rt sw
rt sw
rt sw
vi ge
vi ge
ge bl
br gr
bl rt
bl rt
sw
VAN
VAN
VAN
VAN
VAN
VAN
og bl
og bl
br ws
br
bl rt
br sw
br sw
br sw
br sw
sw
gn
br
br ws
S258 S416 S13 S28
B B 1 9 6 14 1 2 4 1 6 1 1 1 1 1
3 2 50
bl gn
A81 X1 T1
8 7
B B 2 3 1 2 2 2 3 4 5 2 2 2 2 M1
bl gr
Y3-I Y3-II Y3-III Y3-IV
gn
gn ws
gn ws
br
gr gn
sw rt
ge rt
rt gn
bl rt
CAN-H
CAN-H
CAN-L
CAN-L
ws sw
gn ws
ws ge
og ws
ws gn
og sw
ge sw
ge gn
gr sw
br ws
br sw
br sw
ge gr
ws bl
bl sw
bl sw
bl sw
ws rt
ge bl
sw rt
rt sw
ge rt
br rt
vi rt
gn
gn
br
br
A A A A A B B B B B B B B A A A A A A A A A A A
2 4 23 32 14 52 26 17 19 3 1 50 34 49 33 53 40 1 16 62 47 48 17 63 59 56
B188 A35 A35
3 5 50 49 41 48 55 19 31 63 7 24 13 35 15 30 44 52 57 9 5 6 21 22 45 36 36 5 15 3 38 51 2 45 51 2 43 60 32 42 58 64 4
A A B B A A B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B B A A A A A A A A B B B B B B B B B
CAN-H gn
CAN-H gn
br
br
sw ws
ws sw
ws og
ws gn
ws og
gn ws
ws ge
og sw
sw gn
ge sw
gn sw
sw gn
ge gn
gr ws
gr sw
br gn
gr gn
gr gn
ws vi
sw vi
sw vi
sw vi
sw vi
sw vi
ge bl
bl ge
gr br
gr bl
gr rt
bl rt
bl rt
rt vi
CAN-L
CAN-L
ge
CAN-H gn
br
br
gr
bl
vi
CAN-L
gn og
sw ws
sw ws
ws sw
ws og
ws gn
ws og
gr sw
og bl
bl og
gr bl
bl rt
S389 M12
gn
br
2 4 1 5 3 Y104 Y81
2 1 1 A 4 3 1 2 1 2 3 1 3 2 1 2 2 1 2 3 6 2 4 1 2 2 1 2 1 2 4
14 26 D+ B169
B25
CAN-H
CAN-L
A16 B302
M89
15 27
6
B69 G1 B83 B132 A177 B54 B24 3 1 5 3 1 1 4 3 4 3 3
B161 B138
sw gn
B72-I B72-II
sw vi
gn
gn
gr bl
sw og
br
br
bl gr
bl rt
bl rt
bl rt
bl rt
bl rt
sw
sw
sw
sw
sw
sw
31
EP13 EP1 1153717 EP5 1153717 EP2 EP4
CODE COMPONENT DESCRIPTION CODE COMPONENT DESCRIPTION CODE COMPONENT DESCRIPTION

A5 INSTRUMENT PANEL B169 THROTTLE MOTOR POSITION SENSOR S13 BRAKE PEDAL POSITION (BPP) SWITCH
A11 MULTIFUNCTION CONTROL MODULE B188 YAW RATE SENSOR S28 REVERSE GEAR POSITION SWITCH
A16 ABS CONTROL MODULE B302 NEUTRAL POSITION (NP) SENSOR S258 CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION (CPP) SWITCH
A35 ENGINE CONTROL MODULE (ECM) CAN-L CONTROLLER AREA NETWORK S389 ENGINE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
(DATA BUS) LOW BRAKE SERVO VACUUM PUMP SWITCH
A75 INSTRUMENTATION CONTROL MODULE S416
CAN-H CONTROLLER AREA NETWORK T1 IGNITION COIL
A81 POWER STEERING CONTROL MODULE
(DATA BUS) HIGH
A177 THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT VAN VEHICLE AREA NETWORK (DATA BUS)
EP EARTH POINT
B24 ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE X1 DATA LINK CONNECTOR (DLC)
F FUSE
(ECT) SENSOR X28-I FUSEBOX/RELAY PLATE, ENGINE BAY | 1
G1 ALTERNATOR
B25 INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE (IAT) SENSOR X28-II FUSEBOX/RELAY PLATE, ENGINE BAY | 2
H63 ENGINE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL)
B54 CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSOR Y3-I INJECTOR 1
K4 STARTER MOTOR RELAY
B69 KNOCK SENSOR (KS) Y3-II INJECTOR 2
K12-I ENGINE COOLANT BLOWER MOTOR RELAY | 1
B72-I HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR (HO2S) | 1 Y3-III INJECTOR 3
K12-II ENGINE COOLANT BLOWER MOTOR RELAY | 2
B72-II HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR (HO2S) | 2 Y3-IV INJECTOR 4
K20 FUEL PUMP (FP) RELAY
B83 MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE Y81 CAMSHAFT POSITION (CMP) ACTUATOR
(MAP) SENSOR K46 ENGINE CONTROL (EC) RELAY Y104 EVAPORATIVE EMISSION (EVAP) CANISTER
B132 CAMSHAFT POSITION (CMP) SENSOR K143 AC COMPRESSOR CLUTCH RELAY PURGE VALVE
B138 ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION M1 STARTER MOTOR 15 IGNITION SWITCH – IGNITION ON
(APP) SENSOR M12 FUEL PUMP (FP) 30 BATTERY +
B161 AC REFRIGERANT PRESSURE SENSOR M89 THROTTLE MOTOR 31 BATTERY –
USEFUL PREPARATION DATA

Service intervals Officially every 12,500 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first. It is beneficial to service the vehicle and
renew the engine oil and filter at least twice as frequently.
Cambelt At least every 62,500 miles or five years. Air filter Every 37,500 miles or three years.
Spark plugs NGK ZKR7A-10 or equivalent; renew every 25,000 miles or two years.
Valve clearances Check and reset every 37,500 miles or three years. Clearances: inlet, 0.30-0.40mm; exhaust 0.40-0.50mm.
ENGINE OIL
Oil type SAE 5W-40 fully-synthetic to API/ACEA SM/C3 and Ford specification.
Capacity (service fill) 2.8 litres. Sump plug torque setting 20Nm. Brake fluid Change every two years.

D E RSTA ND I N G
UN
Automotive Electrics
PART TEN: Top tips for electrical testing from Jack Moore.
 When it comes to electrical testing and fault-finding it can sometimes be difficult knowing where to begin. A decent
multimeter doesn’t have to be expensive, but it will be your most valuable tool for electrical diagnostics. Having a good
grasp of the basics and following a well-defined test process will yield the best results.
1 Keep it simple
 Fuses are normally easily accessible and
easy to test. Owners’ manuals will usually
give an index indicating fuse location and
rating, while fusebox covers will often give a
visual or numerical layout of fuses and relays.
Fuses can be inspected visually by removing
and checking if the fusible link is broken,
or else you can use a multimeter to test for
continuity across the contacts. Some types of
fuse can be tested in place by checking for equal potential (voltage) at the exposed metal contacts on the back of the fuse.
2 Visual checks
 If the component you are testing is accessible, visually inspect the wiring to it for burning,
chafing or signs of corrosion. Check the block connector for water ingress and confirm
the condition of the contacts, which should be free of dirt and provide a good connection
between the male and female contacts. Visually inspect any ground points you can access.
3 Electrical tests
 In order to function, an electrical component requires a live or positive feed and a ground or
negative connection. The ideal way to check these is by taking a voltage drop measurement;
this is a measure of the voltage that gets ’dropped’ across the component.
With the circuit connected and switched on, the voltage measured across the back of the pins
should be roughly within a volt of battery voltage (this is true for most, but not all, circuits
– some circuits work with a different voltage, such as 5-volt sensors/switches). If the voltage
drop measured is equal to battery voltage then test the component itself (see Step 4). If the
voltage measurement is less than battery voltage, check the live and ground connections
individually. These tests should be carried out with the circuit switched on.
Testing the live Place the red lead of the multimeter on the live connection of the component
and put the black lead on the battery negative. This should give a reading equal or close to
battery voltage. If not, refer to a wiring diagram and trace the live side back to its source.
Testing the ground Place the red lead of the multimeter on battery positive and the black
lead on the component ground. This should give a reading close to battery voltage. If not, the
component does not have a good ground supply. Trace the ground side of the circuit – this is
usually through the vehicle chassis – detaching any ground connections and cleaning them thoroughly. When refitting, ensure
a good connection is made.
4 Testing components
 If a component has a live and ground
side but is still not operating, it’s quite likely
that it is faulty. However, if there’s an easy
way to test it before replacing it then it’s
always worth doing this.
A lot of basic components can be
tested with a multimeter for continuity/
resistance. Including bulbs, switches,
glow plugs, fuel pumps, motors, relays,
sensors, heated windows, solenoids,
horns, etc. These components must have continuity through them in order to work. Sometimes establishing the manufacturer
specification for resistance can be difficult. If there is more than one of the component you are testing fitted to the vehicle –
a glow plug or window motor, for example – do a comparison check.
Take care not to damage electronic components and never check SRS components with a multimeter.

Previous
AUTO ELECTRICS
PART ONE
5 Quick four-pin relay tests Beginners’ guide to the
 Relays sometimes form part of complex circuits that operation & testing of
can be confusing. Here is a quick test that’s easily carried vehicle electrics systems.
out to determine the condition of a relay. PART TWO
A relay uses a small current to close a set of contacts, Using a digital multimeter.
allowing a larger current to flow. The smaller current PART THREE
passes through a winding that creates a magnetic field How series and parallel
when energised. On a standard relay, the resistance circuits work.
through this winding is normally between 50-120 ohms, PART FOUR
which is easily measured with a multimeter. The winding Electrical wiring diagrams.
contacts are usually marked 85 and 86 or 1 and 2. To test PART FIVE
if the relay contacts are closing, connect a 9-volt battery Diagnosing short circuits.
across contacts 1 and 2. You should hear an audible click. PART SIX
With a second pair of hands, check for continuity between contacts 3 and 5. With the The role resistors play.
9-volt battery connected, you should have continuity with little or no resistance. PART SEVEN
When troubleshooting, try to arm yourself with as much information as possible. Petrol injection.
Confirm whether the vehicle has had any repair or servicing work recently. Conduct an PART EIGHT
all-round function test to see if there are any other issues or components not working. Supplementary restraint
Check footwells, the spare wheel well and boot for signs of water ingress. Anywhere systems and vehicle safety.
that wires are forced to move or flex – such as the door and tailgate wiring – is a PART NINE
common source of trouble. Always remember the basics and, when the fault has been Keyless entry systems.
located, don’t forget to check if there is an underlying cause. Happy troubleshooting.
8 KEY ELECTRICAL DEFINITIONS

 VOLTAGE Electrical pressure that makes a circuit work  GROUND Connected to battery negative
 CURRENT Measured in amps, the rate of flow in a circuit  CONSUMER The electrical component in the circuit
 RESISTANCE Usually caused by the electrical component  CLOSED CIRCUIT Complete circuit from positive to negative
 LIVE Connected to battery positive  OPEN CIRCUIT An incomplete circuit
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Our ars
Rob
Marshall
Special Contributor
Croap
rotation
S
ince CM experimented with
running cheap bangers earlier
this year, a certain amount of
reorganisation of my fleet was
necessary. You could view my everyday
‘modern’ as a twist on the entire ‘banger’
concept, because I bought it for £7500
as a 28,000-mile, three-year-old former
management car from a Citroën UK trips scheduled during the summer, the the original differential’s bearings were
auction. Almost 10 years later, the mileage economical C5 was pressed back into use. so worn that the ensuing din eclipsed
on my C5 has crept to 110,000 and its that of the engine at any speed above
value has plunged to virtually zero. Yet, 40mph. The propshaft had also seized,
stomaching £750 per year in depreciation Showtime! due to its sliding and universal joints not
is not too bad, considering that the car’s Time does, indeed, fly by and cars that being lubricated regularly, although I
only major mechanical work has been a are parked out of harm’s way can soon entrusted this job to a specialist with the
new clutch and flywheel last year. be forgotten. For example, in 2010, I appropriate balancing equipment. After
Even so, the arrival of CM’s 2003 was gifted a 1976 Triumph Toledo that this work was completed, the car was
Chrysler PT Cruiser – and the becoming was bound for the scrapyard. I spent placed back on the road in late 2018 and
troublesome 2005 Hyundai Coupé (more most of 2011 restoring the bodywork, displayed on the Triumph Dolomite stand
on this in a forthcoming issue) – meant prior to laying the car up in 2013. Five at the Lancaster Insurance Classic Motor
that the venerable diesel C5 spent much years later, I vowed to get it running Show and again at 2019’s MG/Triumph
of 2019 unused. This sabbatical gave me again but, obviously, I had to get my show at Stoneleigh. It has also seen
time to trace an increasingly vocal droning hands dirty outside of the expected basic regular use throughout the summer and,
sound to a tired nearside rear wheel- maintenance items. An almost complete aside from another oil change and a tweak
bearing, which was a delightfully simple replacement of the braking system to the manually-adjustable rear drum
task to change. With some very long coincided with an axle swap, because brakes, has required no special attention.
 The rusty balls on Rob’s
C5 rear wheel bearings
indicate a failed water seal,
which allowed water to
enter the assembly.
 Despite being a Type 2

bearing that incorporates
the hub, the new rear wheel
bearing did not require
special tools, other than a
torque wrench to tighten
the new hub nut, prior to
refitting the dust cover.
A lucky eBay find costing £25 gave Rob’s 460 a new bumper cover to replace the damaged original. The entire bumper had to be removed and dismantled.

Retro Volvo 480s are
still bargain buys but are In Rob’s garage
troublesome models, as
Rob demonstrated at the 2007 Citroën C5 Exclusive
2019 Practical Classics
Restoration Show.
estate diesel 1997cc. Motorway
hack, bought when three years old from
a Citroën UK auction at BCA.
2005 Citroën C5 VTR estate
petrol 1997cc. My wife’s everyday
runabout, maintained by me.
1993 Volvo 480ES 1998cc.
My modern classic. In generally good
order and used everyday.
1989 Volvo 440 GLT Injection
1721cc. Believed to be the earliest UK
survivor. Currently on 23,000 miles.
The now tax-exempt Toledo needed new
brakes, a replacement axle and propshaft 1980 Triumph Dolomite
before it could be returned to Britain’s roads. 1500 automatic 1493cc.
Bought and restored as our wedding car.
only because they are now obsolete, but In hibernation.
also even good secondhand ones are eye- 1979 Triumph Dolomite 1500
wateringly expensive. Therefore, instead overdrive 1493cc. Excellent condition.
of gluing them into place with sealant,
I used a thick butyl tape between the
1976 Triumph Dolomite 1500
1493cc. The earliest example remaining,
brittle plastic and the bodywork, instead. but vandalised unfortunately. A long-
Later in the year, my 1993 Volvo This approach appears to have worked. term restoration project.
480ES was called upon to demonstrate Prior to the show, I draped a running
1976 Triumph Toledo four-door
common repair tasks at the Volvo hosepipe along the rear windows – sure A freebie, restored to A1 condition.
Enthusiasts Club stand at the Practical enough, water was finding its way in.
Classics Restoration Show in March. Luckily, the glazing is not bonded to the
Getting it ready posed a few challenges, bodywork, meaning that lying down in the of remaining MOT. Longer-term readers
especially as the car had not been used back and popping them out with a well- may recall that this rare saloon was
for five months. While I decided to repair placed rubber-soled boot provided NEC treated to a minor restoration during
some minor rust to the rear wheelarches visitors with an interesting spectacle. 2017/18 and was taken off the road
and the bottoms of the doors, including Sealing them with sticky windscreen last winter. There is nothing special
painting them at the NEC, welding the sealer prior to refitting them with a piece to report, because it covered around
holes that appeared between the boot of string (yes, really!) worked well, but 1500 miles during the spring and early
floor and inner rear wheelarches had to I remain sceptical that the rear of my summer without any problems. I have
be done beforehand, which necessitated 480 is water-tight. I’m not that lucky… noticed a faint occasional whiff of
dismantling most of the interior. antifreeze permeating the cabin, leading
The Volvo made it to the show and, me to suspect that the heater matrix
while the various paintwork repairs Volvo swap might have developed a small leak, but
were drying, additional demonstrations Post-restoration show, I managed to I have postponed this nasty little job for
involved trying to eradicate the common reassemble the 480’s interior, but the car another time. After the MOT lapsed, the
water leaks that plague the rear of the was laid up again so that I could press car was prepped for a term in storage.
car. I took great care not to damage the my 1990 460 Turbo back into service, This meant that the 480 could resume
rear lights that I bought new in 2012, not therefore utilising the last few months duties again. Before then, it needed a
fresh MOT. The only issue that I could
To access the rust holes in the boot floor, find was intermittent brake lights,
the 480’s interior had to be dismantled. which was traced to the pedal switch.
Removing the part and spraying it with
electrical contact cleaner restored
operation for long enough to pass
the MOT, but the problem recurred
several months later. Due to not being a
particularly easy part to access, I ordered
a good quality replacement made by
Hella, which includes not only the
switch but also the friction-fit collar into
which it locates.
Servicing the 480 in July threw up
several niggles, but the warm weather
provided sufficient opportunity to
refresh the underseal on the rear
wheelarches, to help protect both the
original metal and the repairs that were
welded in earlier in the year.
With both the 480 and Toledo in use,
I can give Mrs M’s Citroën C5 2.0 petrol
some long overdue attention, which will
form the basis of a future update.
November 2019 Car Mechanics 89

Our Cars
Ian
Cushway
Special Contributor
First-class
service
T
he last time I wrote about my
2006 VW Transporter T5 I’d
just fixed the multi-zone air-
conditioning – good timing,
given the hot summer we’ve just had. I’m
pleased to report, there’s a blast of icy
cold air inside thanks to the expertise
of the Vehvac team in Edenbridge, Kent
(vehvac.com) who did a grand job of
diagnosing and fixing various issues.
Next, it was time to get a service. I tend
to choose an independent specialist for
this kind of work because I haven’t the
facilities at home (I live in France) to do
it myself. Also, I like the reassurance of advisories, so can wait. I have to say
another set of eyes looking for anything Visual check I was surprised about the driveshaft
untoward. However, this time, I went With fresh oil and filter fitted and the wear, especially as the van’s only covered
against the grain and booked the vehicle in vehicle still up on the lift, the Cowfold the equivalent of 67,500 miles.
at the Southern Motor Group at Cowfold, crew began their visual check. Using a
West Sussex, an authorised VW van smartphone to provide video footage, a
sales and service centre. It actually comprehensive inspection was made of Coiled spring
quoted less for an oil and filter service the underneath, including a close look Another job I knew needed doing – and an
than a couple of independents, and I was at the brakes (including the flexi-hoses), urgent one at that – was replacing the rear
told it would include a free ‘express’ visual steering, suspension, exhaust, wheels suspension coil springs. They rust, then
check, a free wash and vacuum, and would and tyres, along with measuring the snap off at the ends and I’d discovered
be using the oil recommended by VW for tread depths. I was later emailed the both of mine had gone when the van got
that engine – namely, Castrol Edge 5W-30 video clip for reference. its MOT. I ordered replacements from
Longlife 3. Plus, having never taken a Several things emerged: there was play Heritage Parts Centre and was pleasantly
vehicle to a main dealer workshop, I was in the splines between the driveshaft surprised that the Cowfold main dealer
curious to find out what it was like. and output shaft, the outer skin of the was prepared to fit them. The springs cost
Incidentally, the total cost including exhaust was badly corroded, and the £81.95 each and I was charged £54.60
the filter element, sump bung, a cleaning brake fluid was black and overdue a for fitting. Incidentally, the springs are
agent and seven litres of oil was £174. change. As they’d got a clever machine to coded by coloured paint spots on the
That seemed pretty good value, given the suck out the old fluid and replace it with coils, which determine their load bearing
fact that the oil alone would cost half of fresh DOT 4 for £45, I thought it was capacity (mine had three pink marks), so
that if you had to buy it from a retailer. worth doing. The other two items were it’s important to get the right ones.
An express visual inspection

was included in the price
of the service and was
recorded on a smartphone.
I received a printed report,
plus the actual footage with
commentary via email.
Oil and filter change was £174 at a VW main agent. The dealer I went to used VW’s recommended
oil for the 2.5-litre TDI engine with a DPF fitted, namely seven litres of Castrol Edge 5W-30 LL.

Our Cars Ian Cushway
In Ian’s garage
2008 VW Passat 2.0 TDI estate Attracted by its immaculate Tornado Red paintwork there’s
been a few teething problems with this budget-buy Passat – notably a glowing emissions light and a
faulty camshaft position sensor. With the latter sorted, it’s beginning to come into its own.
The brake fluid

was looking
past its best, so
it was renewed.
It should be
refreshed every
two years.
or single slider side door. In the end,

Expensive table I opted for the former, but I have to say
An option on the T5 is a fold-down table my old single slider offered a lot more
that slides up and down in the central storage space because you can push
two floor rails. With five kids, I thought luggage right up to the side and not worry
it would come in handy for impromptu about the sunken door ledge or things
picnics, so I began my search for one falling out when the side door is opened.
secondhand. Out of interest, as I was at It’s something worth considering if
a main dealer, I asked how much they you’re got lots of stuff to stow.
were new. I hope you’re sitting down: a Next on my list of things to do includes
staggering £1069.93! I looked on eBay renewing the front discs and pads, plus
and found one for £250. Not cheap, but a rust treatment to the underside. I have
bargain compared to the main agent price. found rust on the front subframe, but
I’d like to say it was worth every penny, I guess that’s the price you pay for buying
but to be perfectly honest it’s become a a vehicle from Germany where, like
dumping ground for sweetie wrappers and Britain, they still use a lot of salt on the
actually takes up useful loading space. road. On the plus side, it’s compulsory in
While on the subject of practicalities, Germany to have a set of winter tyres, so
when looking for a T5, I pondered long I’ll be running around on those over the
and hard about whether to get a double cold winter months.
Believe it or not, these factory option tables for

the Caravelle cost more than £1000 new from
VW. I managed to get mine on eBay for £250.
Both rear springs had

snapped (see the top one),
a common occurrence on
older T5s. Springs are coded
according to the number and
colour of the paint spots.

CLEVELAND Pristine Bodyworks/RR Automotive,
Scaldhurst Farm, Larkhill Road, Ashington,
G Harniess (Louth) Ltd, Bolingbroke
Road, Fairfield Industrial Estate, Louth LN11
Ron Payne & Son, Baltic St, Hartlepool TS25 Essex SS4 3RU. Tel: 01702, 257177. 0WA. Tel: 01507 603341.
1PS. Tel: 01429 273646. Family run – one brother handles Huttoft Service Station, Main Road,
mechanical work, the other bodywork. Huttoft, Lincs LN13 9RF. Tel: 01507 490283.
CORNWALL GLOUCESTERSHIRE
Village garage with all usual repair facilities
plus LPG stockists.
Dale Brett Autos, Gilston Road, Saltash,
Stonehouse Exhaust, Unit 1, Orchard W H Brand and Son, Whaplode Drove, nr
Cornwall PL12 6TW. Tel: 01752 849448.
Place, Stonehouse, Gloucestershire. Spalding, Lincs. Tel: 01406 330265.
Family owned and run. Explains everything,
Tel: 01453 822971. Excellent garage. Good Daewoo/Chevrolet franchise and
discusses options. 10/10 everytime. independent MG Rover specialists.
old-fashioned service!
Ferris Garage Ltd, Truro TR3 6RE.
LONDON (GREATER)
Tel: 01872 862218.
M Clark Motors, Polperro Road, HAMPSHIRE
West Looe PL13 2QP. Tel: 01503 265511. Keylink Systems Ltd, 15/16 The Calvert Barnet Service & Tuning Centre,
MOTs, servicing, welding, tracking, Centre, Woodmancott, Winchester SO21 1 Motor Way, Margaret Road, New Barnet,
bodywork, exhausts, batteries. 3BN. Tel: 01256 379150. Mercedes/BMW Herts EN4 8DW. Tel: 020 8441 6667.
specialists but will take care of anything. All usual garage services plus MOT testing.
CUMBRIA SJB Autotech, Unit 3, Beresford Centre, P & S Carriage Ltd, (t/a Hopfields Auto
Wade Road, Baskingstoke RG24 8FA. Tel: Repairs) 2-10 Raymouth Road, South
Cleator Moor Auto & Body Repairs 01256 477 411. sjbautotech.co.uk Bermondsey, London SE16 2DB.
Ltd, Ennerdale Road, Cleator Moor, Jim, the owner, is extremely experienced Tel: 020 7237 2140. MOTs and servicing.
Cumbria, CA25 5LD. Tel: 01946 811800. with the VAG range.
Service is brilliant and the mechanics very Pit Start Garage, Standard Way,
knowledgeable. Mendem Motors Ltd, Unit 4, Stacey Park Royal, London. Tel: 020 8827 1919.
Industrial Park, Silchester Road, Completed my own servicing, as well as
Riverside Garage, Holmrook, Cumbria Tadley RG26 3PY. Tel: 0118 970 2222. giving them my 205 GTi head gasket job.
CA19 1UH. Tel: 01946 724228. Friendly mendemmotors.co.uk
helpful and professional service. Everything from aircon to wheel alignment
via DPF with up-to-date equipment & staff. MERSEYSIDE
This listing is published every six
months and will next appear in DERBYSHIRE Wes & Co, Shootash Garage, Salisbury Village Auto Repairs, 6a Greenes Road,
Road, Romsey, Hants SO51 6GA. Whiston, Prescot, Merseyside L35 3RF.
our May 2020 issue. We welcome The Service Garage Ltd, Engineering
Tel: 01794 515003. MOT station, servicing.
further nominations (from satisfied Services, 51 Derby Road, Borrowash, Derby Tel: 0151 426 0999.
customers only please, no self- DE72 3HA. Tel: 01332 663982 or 677131. Servicing and repair of cars & light
nominations) of businesses to be Walgrove Garage Ltd, Walgrove Road, HEREFORDSHIRE commercials. Also a Class 4 MOT testing.
included, so that we can make this Brampton, Chesterfield, Derbyshire S40 DC Rogers Auto Repairs, Unit 11, Beech
listing as useful as possible to readers
throughout Britain and Ireland.
2DS. Tel: 01246 278181. French & VAG
specialists. MOTs, tyres and welding.
Business Park, Tillington Road, Hereford NORFOLK
HR4 9QJ. Tel: 01432 264200.
Please write to: Car Mechanics Herring and Palmer, Hewett Yard, Hall
DEVON
Good Garage Guide, Bauer Media, Road, Norwich. Tel: 01603 666585.
Lynchwood, Peterborough PE2 6EA. HERTFORDSHIRE BMW specialists, all makes catered for.
Or e-mail: Racecourse Garage, Babbage Road, Broxbourne MOT and Motorist, Threeways Garage, Watton Road,
martyn.knowles@bauermedia.co.uk Totnes Industrial Estate, Totnes, Devon Unit 1, Bridge Works, Nazing New Road, Shipham, Norfolk IP25 7PE. Tel: 01362
TQ9 5JA. Tel: 01803 862297. Broxbourne, Herts EN10 6SG. 820430. Independent Citroën specialist,
Offers excellent service, honest approach also repairs/services other makes. MOTs.
AVON
and competitive rates and parts quotes.
Tuned Auto Repairs, Newcourt Barton, KENT S & R Motors, Sunset Lodge Industrial
Units, St. Germans, Kings Lynn. Tel: 01553
Lockleaze Service Station, Lockleaze Clyst Road, Topsham, Exeter EX3 0DB. Bexley Lane Garage, 33-47 Bexley Lane, 617696 or 07788 268121. Run by Steve
Road, Bristol BS7 9RU. Provides excellent customer service at Crayford DA1 4DD. Tel: 01322 527279 Smith. Service is excellent.
cheap rates. bexleylanegarage.co.uk Stone Chips Ltd, 12 Garden Street,
BERKSHIRE DORSET
Lockheed Authorised Brake Safety Centre,
MOTs, servicing.
Norwich NR1 1QU. Minor paintwork repairs,
bumpers, etc. Valeting, interior repairs,
Mike Farina Auto Services, 21 Sedgewell Chelsfield Motor Works, Court Lodge alloy refurbishment.
Road, Sonning Common, Nr Reading, R G Luther and Son, Knighton Garage,
140 Magna Road, Bear Wood, Farm, Warren Road, Orpington BR6 6ER. Tel:
Berks RG4 9TA. Tel: 0118 972 4036.
Servicing, repairs. Bournemouth BH11 9NB.
Tel: 01202 573404.
01689 890689. Mechanical repairs, MOTs,
bodywork, aircon, diagnostics. NORTHAMPTONSHIRE
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE Hartley Garage Services Ltd, Ash Road, Rob Price Automotive Services,
Stokenchurch Service Centre, Wycombe

DURHAM Longfield DA3 8EL. Tel: 01474 706501. All
usual garage services plus MOTs and aircon.
146 Northampton Road, Broughton,
Kettering, Northants NN14 1NS.
Road, Stokenchurch, Bucks HP14 3RR. Skipbridge Garage, Hurworth Moor, Tel: 01536 790901.
Ivydene Garage Ltd, Unit 99,
Tel: 01494 483355. Servicing, repairs, Darlington, County Durham DL2 1QL. Ellingham Way, Ellingham Ind. Est.,
tuning, MOTs, welding, exhausts, batteries. Tel: 01325 720498. Ashford TN23 6LZ. Tel: 01233 636081.
Mechanical repairs, servicing all makes,
NORTHUMBERLAND
CAMBRIDGESHIRE ESSEX MOTs, aircon, Bosch diagnostics.
OFT-approved garage.
JT Auto Services, The Old Works, Red Row,
Morpeth, Northumberland NE61 5AU. Tel:
G Nice and Sons Ltd, 3 Chapel Street, Bennetts BMW Specialists, 01670 761711. Repairs, servicing.
Unit 1, Haltgate House, Hullbridge Road,
LEICESTERSHIRE
Waterbeach, Cambs CB25 9HR. Tel: 01223
South Woodham Ferrers, Chelmsford, Essex
860241. Isuzu specialist, MOT testing,
aircon specialists. CM3 5NG. Tel: 01245 328601,
& RUTLAND NOTTS
www.bennettsbmw.co.uk
Kings of Witcham, The Slade, Witcham, nr PVS (Professional Vehicle Servicing),
BMW specialists, also all-makes repairs. Broad Street Garage, The Old Forge,
Ely, Cambs CB6 2LA. Tel: 01353 778403, Glaisdale Drive, Nottingham NG8 4GY. Tel:
email: info@kingsofwitcham.co.uk. The Bodyshop, 31-37 Tomswood Hill, Brook St, Enderby, Leicester LE19 4ND. 0115 928 3333. Repairs, servicing,
Independent Volvo specialist since 1996. Barkingside, Essex IG6 2HL. Tel: 020 8500 Tel: 0116 286 1416. reasonable prices, helpful staff.
Volvo sales, servicing and parts. 9228 bodyshop.uk.com The repairers L&H Exhausts MOT & Service Centre,
I spoke to there, all love working on cars. Wright Engineering Co Ltd, 332 Colwick
Saabmaster Garage Services, Unit 7, 4 Charlotte Street, Melton Mowbray, Road, Nottingham NG2 4BG. Tel:
Robert Davies Court, Nuffield Road, It’s not just a job to them. Leics LE13 1NA. Tel: 01664 562684. www. 0115 950 2284. wright-engineers.co.uk
Cambridge CB4 1TP. Tel: 01223 420055. D & A Autos, Unit 1A, Pools Lane, lhexhaustsmotcentre.co.uk Very good Automotive services including milling,
Independent Saab specialists. Highwood, Chelmsford, Essex CM1 3QL. independent garage with modern workshop. turning, grinding, and fabricating.
Swift Car Care, 145-147 St Pauls Road, Tel: 01245 248317 Tarsel Motors Ltd, 173 Church Hill Road,
Peterborough. Tel: 01733 897080.
VW Technics, Unit 10, Highgate Farm, Over
Frank Shaikley and Sons, Hawkins Road,
The Hythe, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY.
Thurmaston, Leicester LE4 8DH.
Tel: 0116 693333. OXFORDSHIRE
Road, Willingham, Cambridge CB24 5EU. Tel: 01206 796657. J. T. Tilley and Son, 3 Lutterworth Road, Oxford Autogas, Tiddington Garage,
www.vwspecialistcambridge.co.uk Halfway Garage, behind Frinton Gate Burbage, Hinckley, Leics LE10 2DJ. London Road, Milton Common/Tiddington,
Motors, Colchester Road, Tendring, Essex Tel: 01455 239303. Oxon OX9 2NU. Tel: 01844 279588.
CHESHIRE CO16 9AA. Tel: 01255 831285. Service, oxfordautogas.com LPG installation and
Andy Stockton Autocare Ltd, Unit 26,

repairs, MOTs incl motorbikes.
Motorvation 2000, Unit 13 Stondon Road,
LINCOLNSHIRE servicing. MOT, service and repairs.
Heron Business Park, Tan House Lane, Widnes

WA8 0SW. Tel: 0151 420 2838.
Hallsford Bridge Ind Est, Ongar, Essex CM5
9RB. Tel: 01277 364241. Engine rebuilds,
Corten Miller Performance Centre,
Friskney Eaudykes, Skegness, Lincs. SHROPSHIRE
asautocare.co.uk Vauxhall specialist. MOT, servicing, electrics. Very knowledgeable highly-skilled staff. Bridgnorth Motor Services, Station Lane,
Gary Burnett Vehicle Services, 11 Trinity Oakdene Autos, Daniels Farm, Wash Derek Chapman Motor Services, Hollybush Road, Bridgnorth, Shropshire
Court, Risley, Warrington WA3 6QT. Tel: 01925 Rd, Laindon, Essex SS15 4AZ. Tel: 01268 13 High Street, Alford, Lincolnshire. Tel: WV16 5DP. Tel: 01746 762562 or 07708
552900. gbvehicleservices.co.uk 280909. www.oakdeneautos.co.uk 01507 462571. An excellent and friendly 167346. Mark is an ex-Ford mechanic &
Independent Renault specialist. Bodywork, welding, MOT & servicing work. garage and bodyshop. seems very experienced.

SOMERSET SURREY YORKSHIRE Lewiston Garage, J A Menzies & Sons Ltd.,
Lewiston, Drumnadrochit, Inverness
Hatley Garage, 86 Kewstoke Road, MCM, Station Lane, Milford, Surrey GU8 Harry Robshaws and Sons, Glebe Street, IV63 6UL. Tel: 01456 450212. Good village
Kewstoke, Weston-super-Mare, North 5AD. Tel: 01483 424815. VW/Audi, BMW, Castleford, West Yorks WF10 4AL. garage, MOTs. Excellent and helpful.
Somerset BS22 9YH. Tel: 01934 622495. Mercedes – all quality car specialists. Tel: 01977 554238. Lothian Motors, 68 Lothian Street,
Specialising in classic Mini’s. Repairs, Proprietor Danny Stevens, vintage bus Pure Car Mechanics, Westgate Carr Bonnyrigg, Midlothian EH19 3AQ.
servicing, bodywork & MOTs. enthusiast! A real character. Business Park, Westgate Carr Road, Tel: 0131 663 1076. Family-run, electronic
Pickering, North Yorkshire YO18 8LX. Tel: and aircon repairs, servicing and MOT.
Elmwood TVR Fix, Pinewood Place, Ewell,
STAFFORDSHIRE Surrey. Tel: 020 8394 2847. 01751 475794. purecarmechanics.co.uk
Kevin runs this garage with his partner,
Simpsons Garage, 5 Baronscourt Road,
Edinburgh EH8 7ET. Tel: 0131 652 1170.
tvrfix.com TVR specialists, also all makes. Grant Simpson is the sole proprietor.
Midland VW, 21 Conduit Road, Norton Angie. The garage is female-friendly.
Canes, Cannock, Staffs WS11 9TJ. The Garage (Wishaw) Ltd, 70A Elison
TYNE & WEAR
RTM Motor Services, 11 Waggon’s Way,
Tel: 01543 495700, midlandvw.com Stainforth, Doncaster, South Yorks. Court, Motherwell, Scotland ML1 2DN. Tel:
Tel: 01302 351167. Peugeot/Citroën 01698 265303. Japanese performance
Snows Garage (Hanley) Ltd, 706 Leek Gavin Reed Ltd, Sunniside Garage, Front
specialist, spares, repairs and servicing. specialist, MOTs. Excellent vehicle diagnostics.
Road, Hanley, Stoke-on-Trent, Staffs ST1 Street, Sunniside, Newcastle-Upon-Tyne
On-site cylinderhead pressure testing.
WALES
4NP. Tel: 01782 215544. NE16 5EE. Tel: 0191 488 7298.
Squire Automotive, Unit 2A Zone 2 MOT, service and repair. W Sykes & Son Ltd, Low Wortley, Leeds
Ring Road, Burntwood Business Park, LS12 6AB. Tel: 0113 263 9388. MOTs, MB Motors, Cowbridge Road, Brynsadler,
Scotts Bank Motor Services, Scotts Bank, servicing and repairs. Small family garage.
Burntwood, Staffs WS7 3JQ. Tel: 01543 Southwick, Sunderland. Tel: 0191 549 7500. Pontyclun, Mid Glamorgan CF72 9BT.
672247. squireautomotive.co.uk Victoria Motors, Victoria Street, Tel: 01443 229522.
Volvo-trained, also general repairs & servicing.
Stocksbridge, Sheffield. www.victoria- The Olde Pounde Garage, Penperlleni
SUFFOLK WEST MIDLANDS
motors-stocksbridge.co.uk Run by Tony
Sutton for about 35 years, the service and
near Pontypool. Tel: 01873 880312.
MOTs, plus general repairs/maintenance.
Barrett-Lee Ltd, 4 Byford Road, Sudbury, repairs are excellent The latest diagnostic Three Arches Services Ltd, Heathwood
Cottage Garage, Brandon Way, West
Suffolk CO10 2YG. Tel: 01787 468900. equipment and just cannot be faulted. Road, Cardiff CF14 4HT. Tel: 02920 752101.
Bromwich B70 9PW. Tel: 0121 525 4413.
Former Rover MD. Yorkshire vehicles 24-7, Unit 5 Sunshine AJ Autos, 2a Gaskell Street, Newport,
GW Motors, 172 Sockfield Road, Acocks Mills, Leeds LS12 3HT. Tel: 0113 318 5259. Gwent NP19 0GH. Tel: 01633 250513.
Green, Birmingham B27 6AU. Tel: 0121 706
SUSSEX 2327 or 0121 706 4770. Family-owned and
yorkshirevehicles24-7.co.uk MOTs and servicing. Excellent service.
Coles Automotive, Browns Meadow,

Edburton Road, Edburton, Henfield, West
“friendly, helpful and no bullshit.”
NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND
Sussex BN5 9LN. Tel: 01273 857520. WILTSHIRE T.F. Cars (Tommy Fegan), Motor Harkin’s Garage, Gleneely, nr Carndonagh,
Co Donegal, Ireland. Father/son operation.
colesautomotive.co.uk Engineers, 35-39 Parkmount Road, Antrim
FJ Chalke Ltd, Talbot Garage, Mere, near Road, Belfast BT15 4EQ. Tel: 028 9037 1868. Covering all types of automotive operations.
Land Rover ralliers.
Warminster Wiltshire BA12 6HE, Tel: 01747 A father and son outfit, doing mechanical
Cradle Hill Motors, Unit 16, 860244 www.fjchalke.co.uk. Established in This listing is provided as a reader service and based
and MOT work at reasonable rates.
Cradle Hill Industrial Estate, Seaford, 1929 – now a Kia agent, before that Austin on recommendations and information supplied by Car
East Sussex. Tel: 01323 890737. McKay Motor Works, 616a Antrim Road, Mechanics readers. We have not ourselves visited, used
then Rover. I have used them for 22 years. or in any way tested the companies listed, and as always,
Newtownabbey BT36 4RF. Tel: 07787
Rew Auto Services, Unit 13, Eastmead Melksham CarCare Centre, 806597. Toyota Master Technician leading a potential customers must make their own enquiries
Industrial Estate, Lavant, Chichester, West Bath Road, Melksham, Wiltshire skilled workshop team. All makes and and decisions. While every care has been taken in the
Sussex PO18 0DB. Tel: 01243 839520. compilation of this list, Car Mechanics and Bauer Media
SN12 8DB. Tel: 01225 703014. models serviced or repaired. cannot accept responsibility for the actions of any of the
Vasstechnik, Unit 2, Potts Marsh Est., companies listed here, nor can we become involved in
Eastbourne Road, Westham, Pevensey,
East Sussex BN24 5NH. Tel: 01323 438754.
WORCESTERSHIRE SCOTLAND any disputes between readers and companies on this list,
though reports – good and bad – are always welcome. We
vasstechnik.co.uk RK Services, Lower Leys, Evesham, would also appreciate being told if readers discover any
Greenend Motors, 20 Sunnybank Terrace,
garages listed here are no longer trading so we can verify
Specialising in servicing/repairs to VAG Worcestershire WR11 3AB. Tel: 01386 Lower London Road, Edinburgh EH7 5TW. this and, if appropriate, remove their entry.
and MG/Rover models. 48935. rkservices.com Tel: 0131 661 4825.
NEXT MONTH
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control unit SPECIAL Jaguar XF
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removing the gearbox
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Powershift Mechatronics l Land Rover Evoque parts prices
 Common faults described l Proton Savvy 1.2 diagnostics
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and seven-speed
l Back To Basic part 3:
Mechatronics at home windscreen wipers and washers
 Discover the l BMW X5 3.0d service plan
remanufacturing process l Key-fob repairs
l CM Visit: Fuchs Technology Centre
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FFR. 1984. Full tilt (soft top). Long MOT. One civilian KIT
owner since demobilisation. 3600 miles believed genuine
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miles. Sensible car for a large stationary generators for radio equipment, and often
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CONVERTIBLE. 2002. 1.6i small leak in canvas but still serviceable. This is a truly
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500988. Norfolk. 1999. 94,000 miles, Blue, Point) various sizes (8mm
1.4-litre petrol manual. 14mm). Good condition.
Good bodywork and £48 plus P&P. Tel: 07789
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MERCEDES-BENZ 350SL.
from gearbox. Running but
no MOT. £175. Tel: 01629 BOOKS
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MAGAZINES. 1968 to 2006.
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PARTS
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miles. Metallic grey, good leather interior, sat-nav.
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condition, FSH, MOT June Absolute stunning. £8995.
Almost a social history.
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interior, recent battery,
Tel: 07484 310348.
Brembo discs & pads, RENAULT KANGOO. 2001, HANDBRAKE SHOE SET.
reluctant sale. £2250 ono. 104,000 miles. 1.4-litre New/unused for Hyundai
Tel: 07789 221760. N Yorks. manual. Green. Invalid
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March 20. £1500. Tel: £750. Tel: 07971 385242. Tel: 07814 489255. Alford, Elan M100. Tel: 01600
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In my
Humble Opinion
Mike Humble finds that dealers are trying to get around Euro Block Exemption.
Blocking tactics
 I have said this many times before
and I’ll say it again: a stamped service
history book is meaningless without
paper proof. This was highlighted by
two recent tales of automotive woe,
both relating to car servicing.
I’m sure a good number of you,
especially professional mechanics or
garage proprietors, will be aware of
Euro Block Exemption when it comes
to automotive servicing. For those who
don’t, it means that car manufacturers
can’t invalidate your warranty for not
using a franchised dealer, provided
the garage follows the maker’s service
schedule to the letter, uses Original ‘By circumnavigating the Land Rover service desk, the
Equipment parts and is VAT registered.
It’s legislation that’s been with us in
customer had saved a healthy £450, but lost himself
its current form since October 2005. around £4000-£5000 when it came to part-exchanging’
Sounds good, doesn’t it? After all, we
all like a good deal when it comes to used’ car scheme. The big issue was the dealership argued that the service
parting with money. However, avoiding the matter of it having no official main data was not fully documented. The
main dealer costs can come back to dealer service history, making it worth Audi owner sought legal advice, only to
bite you on the rump when it comes to considerably less on the forecourt. be told that he hadn’t a leg to stand on.
trading the car in for something new. It all ended up with a very unhappy Main dealers cottoned on the
I was recently chewing the fat with a customer who opted to run his current potential loss of service department
salesman I used to work with in a Vauxhall car till it drops, vowing never to cross revenue a long time ago. When I was
dealership. He now works with Land the showroom threshold again. My selling new cars, one of my offers was
Rover and had just been in a dispute former work colleague did a fag packet to factor the price of a discounted
with a regular customer and it looked calculation and worked out that, by service contract into the figures for a
likely he had lost the customer for good. circumnavigating the official Land new car deal. Similarly, current PCP
The customer in question was Rover service desk, the customer had deals offer a fixed monthly price for
in the process of trading up to the saved a healthy £450, but lost himself everything, including routine items
current Discovery from his three-year- around £4000-£5000 when it came to – it’s a total no-brainer and avoids
old Discovery 4. The test-drive was part-exchanging. What he gained on the future complications. All you have to do
met with universal praise: his wife swings, he lost on the roundabout. is top up the washer bottle, add a drop
adored it, so did the kids – even the The other story involves an of fuel and blow some air in the tyres.
dog. Speaking as a former booted- acquaintance who drives an Audi A6 The problem is that too many people
and-suited peddler of new tin, the estate. He’d done the same thing as want something for nothing and think
aforementioned scenario usually the Discovery owner when it came to that any add-ons suggested by the
guarantees the happy family are almost servicing and the Germanic reliability salesperson are nothing more than a
certainly going to roll off your forecourt factor meant the car had never been ruse to extract more money.
in a shiny new car. Where the wheels back to the supplying dealer for so Euro Block Exemption is generally
fell off the deal was during the used car much as a replacement light bulb. That a good thing and, if you run a less
manager’s appraisal of the customer’s was until his garage spotted the start expensive vehicle, makes little difference
part-exchange vehicle. of a coolant leak from the water pump. to secondhand values. Where you have
The vast gulf between the The garage rightly said that this should to be careful is making sure you have
showroom’s offer and the customer’s be covered by the maker’s warranty, so the paperwork detailing every item
estimate of the vehicle’s value was due a phone call was made to the newly- that’s been replaced, adjusted, tweaked
to one very simple reason: the three expanded Audi dealership. or checked as, given half a chance, the
services that the Discovery 4 had been The car was booked in and the manufacturer will always take advantage
treated to had been undertaken by a aftersales department asked for the of the most negligible of reasons to not
non-franchised garage. Even though service history to be left in the car – a give money away if they don’t have to.
all the correct Land Rover practices normal dealer workshop practice. The Would you, if it was your business?
had been scrupulously followed, using dealer subsequently phoned the owner Who knows what will happen with
OE parts supplied by the main dealer, at work to request authorisation for Euro Block Exemption after October 31,
it meant the car couldn’t be sold on renewing the water pump and coolant 2019 – if indeed Brexit even happens
via the supplying dealer’s ‘approved- at a tidy £700. Despite the warranty, on that date.

!
EW
N
The sophisticated electronic systems that now control all aspects of

a modern vehicle engine has revolutionised the motoring industry.
Professional and DIY mechanics alike must have a comprehensive understanding of the ECUs, sensors BROUGHT TO YOU BY
and the electrical systems in their vehicle in order to troubleshoot and solve problems quickly and
accurately. Understanding Vehicle Diagnostics provides you not only with a basic grounding in vehicle
electrics but also practical advice on correctly diagnosing issues and how to fix them. The features
are all written in clear, concise language by the experts at Car Mechanics magazine, which has been
saving money for motorists since 1958.
On sale now at greatmagazines.co.uk/diagnostics

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