alessandro Professional Training Guide 4

Cosmetic manicures
Although often applied to treatment of the nails in colloquial
language today, the term ‘manicure’ actually stands for the
cosmetic treatment and care of the whole hand. ‘Manicure’
is derived from the Latin word ‘manus’, meaning ‘the hand’.
Hence manicure is the term for all care and cosmetic treat-
ment for the hand, from the skin to the nails. Furthermore,
if this includes hand massage, the term also stands for the
influence of mechanical treatment of the skin, the connective
fat tissue and the muscles of the hand. Adapted to the diffe-
rent nail types, a nail manicure gives the nails intensive care
and offers to natural nails optimum protection. Professionally
performed nail treatment maintains the natural beauty of the
nails and is the perfect basis for sturdy, strong natural nails.

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1. Professional analysis and consultation prior

to treatment

1.1 Skin analysis

The basis of a successful, professional manicure is an analysis of the skin prior to actual treatment.

More demands are made on the surfaces of our hands than any other areas of the human body. Hands are conti-
nually exposed to many environmental influences, such as cold and heat, dry air, sun, dirt and water, without any
clothes protecting them. Hands are in constant use: at work, at home or in the garden. Even merely washing our
hands removes moisture from the skin of our hands.

The skin on our hands is similar to the skin on our faces. It is relatively thin, has few sebaceous glands and hardly
any fat tissue in the subcutis (subcutaneous tissue). There are no sebaceous glands at all in the palms. The
sebaceous glands supply the skin with oils and the moisture these contain. Consequently, areas of the skin with
few sebaceous glands lack sufficient acid protection. On the other hand there are a relatively large number of the
sweat glands in the palms. However, sweat glands lack moisture-retaining properties for the skin. These factors
make the hands sensitive and inclined to age prematurely.

Treatment can only achieve maximum success if the therapist is as accurately informed as possible about the
composition of the skin, the lifestyle and care routines of the person to be treated. Only then can the therapist
select exactly the right combination of active agents and care principles for the individual customer.

Before every treatment the therapist conducts a consultation and establishes a thorough anamnesis (case history),
in order to determine the skin type. The therapist asks targeted questions on individual points and factors. Ho-
wever, when determining the skin type, the therapist must always take into account that this does not necessarily
depend on the visible or tactile condition of the skin nor, above all, on the customer’s age. Therefore, after ascer-
taining the case history, the therapist must still clarify the causes or factors affecting the ageing of the skin separa-
tely, to determine the skin type.

The skin type is determined in three steps:

1st step:
Clarifying the following points and factors in a consultation prior to treatment:

Occupation
How much is demanded of the skin and hands depends on the type and scope of the occupational activities car-
ried out. Any potentially visible or existing allergies can be determined by occupation. In the final analysis the type
and scope of the care needed depends to a large extent on how much is required of the hands overall

Nicotine
Nicotine is a major cause of skin discolouration and premature ageing. The skin and nails of strong smokers espe-
cially can be noticeably highly discoloured.

Diet
An unbalanced diet leads to an inadequate supply of nutrients and minerals, which is revealed in corresponding
changes in the skin among other things. Likewise, an inadequate supply of moisture can also alter our skin: peop-
le should drink up to about three litres of liquids a day for example, depending on age.

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Diseases
Allergies, too high or too low a blood pressure, rheumatism, cancer and operations enable therapists to draw con-
clusions as to the care the skin needs. These diseases and/or taking medication ( incl. the contraceptive pill e.g.)
can cause skin changes to occur. Moreover, certain diseases and medication affect the skin-ageing process.

Care
Ultimately, the frequency, type and scope of the care and the care products used on a customer will have a major
impact on the condition of the customer’s hands or skin.

2nd step:
Identifying the factors that can have a profound impact on the skin-ageing process, before treatment starts:

There are many other factors that can accelerate the skin-ageing process, besides those that are actually age-re-
lated. These include intensive housework, occupational demands made on the skin, frequent sunbathing and/
or visits to a solarium (exposure to UV radiation), an essentially dry skin, general lifestyle and dietary habits, or
certain diseases (e.g. gout, neurodermatitis or some allergies).

The first fine wrinkles on the hands form at a relatively young age due to the constant movement of the joints. As
we grow older our skin loses more of its elasticity: collagen and elastin are reduced or we no longer reproduce
enough. The skin grows pale and wan and is inclined to develop pigmentations. Known as age spots, they appear
particularly prematurely in sun-stressed skin. Moreover, increased ageing gives the skin a parchment-like quality;
it is inclined to develop blood swellings (haematoma). Insufficient care and being underweight can also age skin
prematurely.

3rd step:
Having had a consultation or conversation about the case history, the therapist can determine skin type:

Skin type defines the type and scope of treatment and which care products will work perfectly on the skin when
used. Each of the distinct skin types:

- normal skin (intermediate skin),

- dry skin lacking in oils (reduced secretion from the sebaceous glands),
- skin with increased dry secretion from the sebaceous glands (seborrhoea sicca) or
- skin with excessive oil secretion from the sebaceous glands (seborrhoea oleosa)

requires individual treatment steps and the use of care products specially designed for the particular skin type.

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1.2 Nail analysis

The alessandro NailSpa manicure passport and analyser are a valuable, practical aid when analysing nails profes-
sionally. Three different coloured rings are in a circle and each contain certain criteria and are marked according to
the make-up of the nails. Each of the three coloured rings represents a particular nail type:

Yellow: normal, very strong nails

Pink: brittle, very cracked nails
Blue: thin, soft nails

THICKNESS

Thick
H CO
WT L

OU
O
GR

R
y
Split

ow
Fa
s

ll
t

Ye
Sl

sy
ow

Ro
Thin

ed
No

en
rm

dd
al

Re

CUTICLES

NAIL TIP
dry Very dry Normal Cracked Split Normal

Inc
al

re
rm

as
Weak
No

ed
ry

Re
d

du
ry

ce
Ve

d
Normal
NT

No
E

OIL
NT

rm
dr

a
CO

CO
l

E NT
UR EN
T T
Hard

IS
MO
STRENGTH

Having marked the individual criteria and factors, the coloured ring in which the most characteristics are marked,
determines the present nail type. Once determined, the nail type defines the guidelines for the treatment to follow
and the required nail care. If several characteristics overlap more than one ring, it means the present nails are of
mixed type and the therapist will need to supplement treatment by using special or add-on products from the
respective product lines (e.g. products for intensive nail care, if necessary).

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‘Yellow’ nail type

Nails typifying the ‘yellow’ nail type are usually strong, thick, natural nails that can be very
arched and are often rather dry. Small cracks in the nail edges are also typical. Strong, robust,
balanced nails of this type have one problem area: they can be too hard. Hence it is important
to add oil and moisture, to prevent crosswise cracks occurring. Prominent lengthwise grooves
are often a product of their hardness and dryness. The nail arch resembles a marked C curve.
The nails look rather yellowish due to their high keratin content, although this colouring may
perhaps also be caused by using dark nail varnish without any undercoat. However, prominent
lengthwise grooves that should not be mistaken for age-related or disease-related groove-like structures often
appear in these nails too. The care of this nail type should involve using nail creams and oils.

‘Pink’ nail type

Nail types in the ‘pink’ passport ring are thin, brittle, arched, have only a slight oily sheen and
always lack moisture. Brittle nails of this type are stubby and frequently marked with promi-
nent lengthwise grooves. Typical crosswise splits cause the various layers of the nail plates to
separate from one another. The shape of nails such as these can vary from flat to rather arched.
The nails appear slightly yellowish and the cuticles are mostly dry and torn because the skin of
the hands is often given very rough treatment. Nails in this category mainly arise due to a lack
of oils and moisture, caused by disposition, medication, stress or disease. The nails themselves
cannot produce any oils and are supplied with these from the nail walls. Moisture in the nail plate dries up due to
the absence of a protective layer of oil there, causing the layers of cells in the nail plate to become detached from
each other, and develop crosswise splits. The quality of these nails is in fact good, although the loss of substance,
above all in the nail tips, produces thin, slow-growing nails. Treating nails of this type requires good moisture pe-
netration and providing an artificial protective layer (e.g. by applying creams or nail oils). Supplementary treatment
for dry, stressed skin aids successful treatment of the natural nails.

‘Blue’ nail type

Natural nails of the ‘blue’ type are thin, soft and characteristically flat and shiny. Consequently,
nails of this type are bendy and can easily crack and break from hyperextension. Lengthwise
splits regularly appear in this type of nails. The horn of the ‘blue ring’ nail type is pale to white
in colour and, viewed from the side, the nails appear very flat, sometimes inclined to resemble
spoon nails. The nail plates are oily and the line between the free end of the nail (hyponychium)
has an irregular shape. You can feel their fundamentally soft, thin structure, when you carefully
press on the nail tip. The cuticles of this nail type are often fine, the skin of the hands appearing
finely structured, soft and moist. They have a tendency to split: their soft structure causes hyperextension of the
nail plates, producing cracks in the lengthwise tube structure thereof. The lengthwise splits are frequently so fine
as to be invisible to the naked eye. The causes of these characteristics can be genetic disposition, insufficient
vitamin intake, poor circulation or diverse stress factors (e.g. detergents or solvents). Soft nails lack the supportive
care, which would give them renewed strength to better withstand everyday stresses and strains.

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1.3 Professional analysis and consultation in practice

Be it a traditional manicure or nail enhancements: a prior individual consultation, including a detailed analysis of
the nails, forms the basis of professional treatment. Creating a satisfied customer base results in your nail salon
being recommended to others, and relies essentially on professional, informed advice. Positive word-of-mouth
recommendations are the backbone of a successful professional nail salon.

Be they women or men, you should offer every single interested customer a non-binding appointment for a
consultation and analysis. Any treatment should be based on the individual nail type, which you must first de-
termine. The current condition of the nails is also relevant. Hence, during the appointment for a consultation and
analysis you must take into account any acute or possibly only temporary nail anomalies (caused by disease or
injury for example).

Consultation and analysis should include completing the customer index card there and then, which, if previously
handwritten, you can then process on an IT system.

During the consultation and interview for analysis, check certain characteristics that are typical for the nails in four
steps:

1st step: Assessing the overall impression

Which basic features do all ten nails have in common (shape, length, structure, colour)? For example, are they too
short, flat, pale or whitish with grey shadows, or inclined to split?

2nd step: Checking elasticity

Check the lengthwise and crosswise elasticity of each nail. To do this, press down slightly from the top and the si-
des of each nail with your thumb and forefinger. This enables you to decide whether the nails are thin/soft, strong/
flexible or hard/inflexible.

3rd step: Determining the type

Depending on the results of the individual checks, use the alessandro manicure passport or analyser criteria to
determine the nail type.

4th step: Deciding on a course of treatment

In the consultation that follows, analyse the nails and determine the nail type, then recommend and explain the
further treatment to the customer. Explain the care and treatment steps and show the customer suitable products
for the nail type, condition of the nails and the customer’s wishes. Even at this early stage you should explain to
each customer, be they male or female, that both suitable care at home and using the right products, are just as
important as professional service in a nail salon, in order to guarantee successful treatment.

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Customer index cards or a customer information system

Complete, continually updated customer index cards or an IT-based customer information system does much
more than merely help to provide ideas. The best possible comprehensive, complete information about custo-
mers are key components of the success of a nail salon and demonstrate to your customers that you are both
professional and reliable.

Customer index cards contain not only the personal details of all the customers, but also all the information
on the results of skin and nail analysis, treatment performed, products used and, if at all possible, respective
additional purchases. Any perhaps unusual features as to the treatment or customer’s wishes and preferences
are also noted on the customer index cards.

Customer index cards can be managed in the traditional format as in a simple index card system, or in an
IT-based system connected to an electronic cash register or goods management system if one is used.

Regardless of the form and type of information system, an informative customer index card always contains at
least the information below:

- First name, second name, address, telephone number/s, perhaps also e-mail address
- Date of birth
- Results and respective date of the skin/nail analysis
- Special details, such as problem areas, wishes and preferences for example
- Treatment details: date, type and techniques of treatments carried out, also products used (including batch
numbers and/or best-before dates if necessary).
Information on the respective products/additional purchases (including batch numbers and/or best-before
dates if necessary).

The type and scope of the treatments carried out will require recording and updating further information and
data. For customers with nail enhancements this can be tip sizes of all the individual fingers, the respective tip
types and the products used (adhesives, gels etc).

Carefully completed and continually updated customer index cards ensure that nail salon staff always have all
the relevant information available. Above all, in the event of staff changes, colleagues’ holidays or illness, any of
the staff can access any of the data and continue to perform all consultations and treatments in the customary
high-quality manner. Recording all the products used and sold, ensures that any complaints and incompatibili-
ties occurring later perhaps can still be processed or traced competently and quickly even after the treatment
itself. For example, complete, correctly noted addresses can be useful for alerting customers to special offers
and promotion campaigns.

Customers should be informed about the existence of customer index cards. The permission of the respective
customers and a signed declaration to this effect must be sought if their details are to be used for direct mar-
keting purposes (e.g. for mailing). That all the customers have been informed of this should always be noted
in writing. A declaration of consent to the use of their addresses for sending promotional or other information,
signed by all the customers, should be collected and kept.

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2. Professional salon treatments

Salon treatment based on the results of consultation, analysis and determining nail type as a result follows next.
You should first make the appropriate corrections, then stabilise and revitalise the nails in accordance with the
analysis. Experience shows that most customers of a professional nail salon suffer from fingernails that are too
short, too thin and soft and therefore tend to split. The main aim of treatment in such cases is first to make a visib-
le, long-lasting improvement to the quality of the nails. Treatment such as this can take several months so you are
advised to start with a treatment schedule of roughly fortnightly treatment sessions. Later, monthly appointments
for treatment should be sufficient to achieve the desired results.

2.1 Essential filing and varnishing techniques

2.1.1 Filing
You must never use force when filing fingernails to correct or alter their shape. When cutting nails, use a suitab-
le file to file back the nail tips to the desired length. Gently draw the file across the nail tip without applying any
pressure. Never file down the nail sides when creating the shape of a nail. The lines of the sides should always be
straight when they emerge from the nail bed and then be shaped appropriately, according to their overall length.
This applies to any required nail shape, regardless of whether it is oval, almond-shaped, broad and oval or square.

The ideal shape for any length and nail bed shapes is ‘squoval’. The term is coined by combining ‘square’ (stra-
ight) and ‘oval’. To achieve this shape, file the top of the nail straight and the sides slightly rounded. This is the
perfect shape for toenails too.

Having filed the nails, clean, smooth and polish the nail plates with the nail buffer set if necessary.

You are advised to finish by polishing the nails to a high-gloss shine for customers who wish to show off extremely
well-groomed nails and never wear nail varnish. High-gloss polishing is always hard on nails: if administered regu-
larly, incorrectly or too harshly, this polishing technique makes natural nails thinner. Neither nail varnish or model-
ling applied to nails, especially thin weak nails that have just been given a high-gloss polish, adheres well.

2.1.2 Varnishing
You must use a suitable undercoat, overcoat and coloured varnish in line with the results of the nail analysis.
Transparent varnishes that also act as undercoats and overcoats are not as effective as products specially de-
signed for particular tasks. When using specialised individual products to varnish nails, clean the nails first with
a nail varnish remover suitable for the nail type in question. Then apply the varnish undercoat evenly. Varnish by
applying two separate coats of the selected coloured varnish. Overcoat to seal the paint, and harden with a quick-
dry hardener at the end.

Shake coloured varnish well before application. This is the only way to ensure the varnish is well mixed and bub-
ble-free. Moreover, shaking the coloured varnish thoroughly makes it more fluid and so easier to apply. Although
colours with a high proportion of white do coat well even after only one coat, there are those colours that never
coat well after applying the first coat. These paints with low white content, which do not coat well, will always
require several coats to achieve a reliable coating. To avoid complaints, you should always apply two coats of any
coloured varnish (2-coat application) as a general rule. The first coating of colour is a primer and should be very
thinly applied. For optimum results, apply the second, thicker coat of coloured varnish next.

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2.2 T
 he alessandro manicure step by step
2.2.1 The ‘classic’ alessandro manicure
1. Disinfect hands
2. Remove nail varnish, (clean any unvarnished nails with varnish remover as well)
3. Analyse skin and nails
4. Cut nails if necessary and shape with a suitable file for the nail type
5. Seal nail tips with a mineral file
6. Apply cuticle remover evenly along the nail folds and allow 3-4 minutes for this to work
7. Using a cuticle pusher, gently detach and then push back the cuticles from the surface of the nails
8. If necessary, remove any cuticle remnants with cuticle tweezers
9. Wash and dry hands
10. Clean the nail plates with a buffer-file no. 1. If you are not intending to apply nail varnish, polish the nails
11. Apply nail varnish if desired
12. Apply hand and nail care products

2.2.2 alessandro ‘wellness’ manicure

An alessandro wellness manicure is a classic manicure enhanced with a relaxing, caring paraffin therapy, using
the alessandro Spa Sensation paraffin device. You should not varnish the nails for about 24 hours after paraffin
treatment, to guarantee that the varnish will last a long time.

1. Disinfect hands
2. Remove nail varnish, (clean any unvarnished nails with varnish remover as well)
3. Analyse skin and nails
4. Cut nails if necessary and shape with a suitable file for the nail type
5. Seal nail tips with a mineral file
6. Apply cuticle remover evenly along the nail folds and allow 3-4 minutes for this to work
7. Using a cuticle pusher, gently detach and then push back the cuticles from the surface of the nails
8. If necessary, remove any cuticle remnants with cuticle tweezers
9. Apply a chemical peel and massage in gently
10. Wash and dry hands
11. Clean the nail plates with a buffer-file no. 1 and polish to a high-gloss shine
12. Apply cuticle care products and hand masks, then put on paraffin gloves
13. Allow paraffin 15-20 minutes to work in
14. Take off paraffin gloves
15. ‘alessandro mini massage’
16. Remove surplus product with compresses
17. Put on silk gloves to seal treatment

Tip: You can start paraffin glove treatment in step 9.

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alessandro paraffin Spa Sensation

You can offer your customers a new dimension of paraffin treatment with the alessandro Spa Sensation paraffin
device. This device is the only paraffin system in the world, which no longer needs an electric cable and is ready
to use in just five minutes, without taking long to warm up. The luxury, deep-penetrating treatment for hands and
feet in Spa Sensation intensive paraffin therapy will indulge all your customers. Here the paraffin is gently warmed
in hygienic single applications in hand or foot format – the Spa Sensation paraffin gloves or socks. The warming,
beneficial effect of the therapy starts to spread all over the skin as soon as the hands or feet are inside the gloves
or socks. At the same time the effect of the pleasant scent of lavender provides perfect relaxation. You are advi-
sed to allow around 15-20 minutes for this wellness experience.

Easy, fast paraffin therapy in four steps, using alessandro Spa Sensation paraffin technology

1st step: A
 ttach the Spa Sensation paraffin gloves by
the tabs. Then fit the PerfecTemp warming
bag in the centre of the box.
3rd step: In no time at all the beneficial lavender scent
starts to fill the air as the paraffin melts. After
about 10 minutes and a short time to cool,
the paraffin is ready to use and you can put
on the gloves.

2nd step: P
 our the contents of the AromaVapor into
the PerfecTemp warming bag and close the
Spa Sensation paraffin-device.
4th step: Massage gently with your hands to further
enhance the warming beneficial effect of the
intensive paraffin therapy. After the paraffin
application you can offer the customer an
additional hand or foot massage.

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2.2.3 alessandro mini massage

For a hand massage, always hold the customer’s hand in one hand and massage with your free hand. Complete
treatment on each hand separately - one after another.

1. Apply a massage product to the skin and spread evenly

2. Smooth over hand and arm
3. Starting with the pinkie and proceeding from the fingertip down to the base of the finger, massage each finger
individually, smoothing down the finger from to the top, without applying any pressure
4. Alternating between both thumbs (‚windscreen wiper method‘), massage the back of the hand down to the
carpal bones, finishing with a pressure point each time
5. Using the thumbs in turn, massage the spaces between the metacarpal bones and between each finger, finis-
hing with a pressure point each time
6. Smooth over the hand and arm and turn over the hand
7. Massage the palms with ‘butterfly’ movements
8. Massage the centre of the hands, applying gentle pressure
9. Massage the palms with the balls of your thumbs
10. Massage the arms up to the elbows with both your thumbs
11. Smooth over hand and arm
12. Massage the forearm with the whole of the palm of both your hands in turn (‘Scooping water technique’)
13. Smooth over hand and arm
14. With your right hand on top of the forearm and your left hand underneath (or vice versa), work the hands in
turn, using a ‘scooping’ motion
15. Smooth over hand and arm
16. Create an energy field by applying slight pressure with both hands and pausing for a moment
17. Remove any remaining product if necessary
18. Apply hand and nail care products

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4 5 6 6 6

7 8 9 10 11

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3. Supplementary hand care at home

The success of professional treatment in a nail salon relies heavily on the rigour and quality of supplementary care
at home. Likewise, any products customers use at home have an impact on the desired aims of treatment in a
salon. Therapists should therefore discuss treatment at home with all their customers in the very first consultation.

They should explain to every customer that she/he can only hope to ensure the long-term improvement in the
quality of her/his natural nails by improving the production of the nail substance, the nail matrix. Additional, regu-
lar, top-quality nail care provided by a customer at home can ensure qualitatively better nail growth in just a few
weeks, even in very dry nails for example. The same applies to care of the skin of our hands

Supplementary care at home is equally important for both natural nail and customers with nail enhancements– the
better natural nails are manicured and the healthier they are, the longer each nail coating will last.

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