Using IR Remote Controls With Arduino

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Using IR Remote Controls with Arduino
IR Remote controls are everywhere these days, you probably

Table of Contents
have several of them around your home to control your video
1 Introduction
and audio equipment as well as air conditioners, fans and
even light bulbs. 2 How IR Remote Controls Work
2.1 Preventing Interference
These devices can also be used with your Arduino projects
and in this article I’ll show you how you can decode the 2.2 Manufacturer Codes
outputs from your remotes, repurpose them to control
3 Working with IR Remote Controls
additional devices and even build your own custom remote
controls. 3.1 IR Receivers
3.2 IR Transmitters
3.3 “Seeing” Infrared Light
4 Decoding IR Remote Controls

4.1 The IR Remote Library
4.2 Getting Remote HEX Codes


4.3 Determining Manufacturer
Codes
5 Repurposing Remote Controls
6 Emulating IR Remote Controls

Introduction
6.1 Manufacturers Codes and
It’s hard to imagine that there was a time when you actually Bits
had to get out of your chair to change channel and adjust 6.2 Arduino Remote Emulator
volume on your television. Every television and most other
audio and video equipment come equipped with a remote 7 An IR Remote for your Arduino
control that allows you to be a true “couch potato”, controlling Projects
your world from the comfort of your favorite chair. 7.1 Using the Repeat Function
8 Conclusion
8.0.1 Resources
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Time to put those unused buttons and controllers to good use! information and surveys to find out
All you will need are a few very inexpensive parts and an what I should cover in my next
Arduino to decode the outputs from these little electronic video and article.
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Or maybe you’d like to build your own custom control, one that
controls all your device or a simplified one to replace that 40-
button monster you fumble with daily.
In this article we will examine how IR remotes work and how More for You!
you can decode their signals with an Arduino. We will also
look at how you can use the Arduino as a remote control itself,
emulating the signals that the original controller emitted. 
Finally we will see how you can use very inexpensive remote
controls in your own custom projects. Let’s get started!
How IR Remote Controls Work

Before we start hacking our remote controls it would be a
good idea to discuss how they work.
IR remote controls, as the name would imply, make use of

pulses of infrared light to send signals to a receiving device
such as a television or sound system. Each button on the
Using the HC-SR04 Ultrasonic
remote control sends out a unique pattern of pulses which are
Distance Sensor with Arduino
decoded by the receiver so that the appropriate action (i.e.
raise the volume, change channels) can be taken.
IR remotes make use of IR LED’s which are very inexpensive, in

fact some of the very first LED’s manufactured in the 1970’s
were infrared as it was actually easier (and cheaper) to make
IR light with an LED than it was to output visible light.
The infrared part of the light spectrum is just below the visible
spectrum, the name “infrared” actually means “below red”
which is where they sit on a spectrum chart. This is the
opposite of ultraviolet or UV light which is just above the
visible spectrum, “ultraviolet” meaning “above violet”.
Infrared light is perfectly safe to work with, you can stare into
a working IR remotes LED without any fear of damaging your
eyes. In fact you are exposed to infrared light every day, often
without being aware of it.
Preventing Interference
Sunlight and the interior lighting in your home have infrared
components along with their visible components, and this

abundance if infrared light can make it difficult for IR remotes
to function as it interferes with them. To resolve this problem
IR remotes don’t just pulse their LED’s on and off, instead they
modulate them in the same fashion as analog radio
modulates a carrier wave to send a signal.
Most IR remotes use a modulation frequency of 38 kHz

although a few use different frequencies. The IR receivers are
designed to look for this modulated infrared light and to
ignore the rest, effectively filtering out the sea of infrared
ambience flooding the room.
Infrared light covers a broad range of the spectrum, from 700

Nm to 1 mm. Most IR LED’s used in remote controls operate at
850 Nm to 940 Nm range so most receivers are tuned to
receive light within this range. This is another way that they
prevent interference from sunlight and other infrared sources.
Manufacturer Codes
As I mentioned earlier different manufacturers use different
codes for their remote controls, in addition there are different
codes for different devices made by the same manufacturer.
Codes are also shared between manufacturers so there is a
possibility that two remotes may conflict with one another.
A great resource for finding manufacturer codes is the IRDB,

which is an online database of IR codes for virtually every
remote control device ever made. I’m also about to show you
how you can use an Arduino to determine which codes your
remotes are using so keep on reading!
Working with IR Remote Controls

Working with IR remotes is pretty simple. You’ll need an IR
sensor to pick up signals and an IR LED to send them.
IR Receivers
Receiving IR codes requires a special infrared sensor, and
there are many inexpensive ones available. One common
device is the 1838T infrared receiver, a tiny 3-pin sensor that is
often included with those inexpensive remote control kits that
you can get on eBay of Amazon.

You can purchase this sensor by itself or mounted on a small
module board. The latter usually will accept a 3-pin Dupont
connector which makes it easy to use in your project. Either
way the three pins on the sensor or module have the following
functions:
Ground. Labeled GND or G on most modules.

5 Volts power. Labeled VCC or R on most modules
Signal Out. Labelled S or Y on most modules
Using an IR receiver with an Arduino is as simple as supplying

5 volts and Ground from the Arduino and connecting the
module or sensors output to one of the Arduino digital I/O
pins. We will do exactly that in our first few experiments.
IR Transmitters
The Transmitting part of a remote control is basically an IR
LED. An IR LED is used exactly like a visible LED, you supply
current with the proper polarity and limit it with a current
limiting resistor.
The IR LED is packaged in the same package as a visible LED.

The Anode (positive) lead is the longer of the two leads. The
Cathode (negative) lead is the shorter one. In case your leads
are both the same length the Cathode side of the LED is flat.
As with any LED light is emitted from the top of an IR LED.

Keep that in mind when you are doing the transmitter
experiments that follow, infrared light is very directional so
you will want to aim your LED at the receiver for best
performance (although, as most people are aware from using
IR remotes, the light can be “bounced” of of white and
reflective surfaces).

“Seeing” Infrared Light
One problem you can run into when you’re working with IR
remote control projects is that your human eye is incapable of
seeing the IR light. If your project doesn’t work it’s often hard
to determine if the problem is with the transmitter or receiver.
The way to get around this is to use a video camera that is

capable of seeing and displaying infrared light. Fortunately
there are plentiful and you probably have one already – in your
phone or tablet.
While dedicated cameras (such as a DSLR) have IR filters they

aren’t as common on phone and tablet cameras, as a result
these cameras are sensitive in the IR range as well as in the
visible range of light.
It’s pretty easy to see if your phone or tablet is capable of

“seeing” IR. Just take a remote control that you know to be
working and aim it at the lens of your camera while you view
the screen. If all goes well you will see the IR LED flash as you
press the keys on your remote.
Once you have established that your phone or tablet can see
infrared you have a valuable troubleshooting tool that you can
use if things don’t work out exactly as you planned them.
Decoding IR Remote Controls

Time for our first experiment! You’ll need an Arduino, I used
an Uno but other Arduino’s will work as well. Don’t use an
ATTiny85 however as the library we will make use of isn’t fully
compatible with it.
You’ll also need an IR Sensor. I’m using one that is on a

module but you could also use an 1838T sensor by itself and
it will work just fine.
Before we begin you’ll need to install a new library into your

Arduino IDE
The IR Remote Library

All of the experiments we will be performing make use of an
amazing library caller “IRRemote”. The library was written and 
is maintained by a fellow named Ken Shirriff with
contributions by Paul Stoffregen and the Arduino community
should be indebted to both of them for all of the hard work
that they put into it.
While you can get the Arduino IR Remote Library on GitHub it

is also available (and easier to install) directly from the Library
Manager in your Arduino IDE. Open the Library Manager and
search for “IR Remote”. Don’t be fooled by some of the other
libraries that have a similar name (including the Robot IR
Remote that is already installed in your IDE), look for “IR
Remote by Shirriff” – that’s the one you need. Click the “more
info” link to get the library info and then click the button to
install it into your IDE.
The beauty of this library is that it can be used for both

receiving and transmitting IR Remote Control codes. Once you
have it installed you’re ready to start working with remote
controls with your Arduino.
Ken has an excellent blog that goes into great detail about
using the library, I urge you to pay it a visit.
Getting Remote HEX Codes

To start off we will build a very simple IR receiver using an IR
sensor and an Arduino. Here is how we will hook it up:
As you can see the hookup is pretty simple. We use the 5 Volt
and Ground outputs from the Arduino to connect to the
sensors VCC (G) and GND (R) pins respectively. Then we
connect Arduino pin 4 to the sensors Signal (Y) pin to collect
information from it.
The actual digital I/O pin we’re using on the Arduino isn’t
important so you could use a different one if you wish, just be

sure to modify the sketch if you do.
In our first sketch we will capture the unique codes sent when
each button the remote is pressed. We’ll use the serial monitor
to display them.
1 /*
2 IR Receiver Demonstration 1
3 IR-Rcv-Demo1.ino
4 Demonstrates IR codes with IR Receiver
5 Displays results on Serial Monitor
6
7 DroneBot Workshop 2017
8 http://dronebotworkshop.com
9 */
10
11 // Include IR Remote Library by Ken Shirriff
12 #include <IRremote.h>
13
14 // Define sensor pin
15 const int RECV_PIN = 4;
16
17 // Define IR Receiver and Results Objects
18 IRrecv irrecv(RECV_PIN);
19 decode_results results;
20
21
22 void setup(){
23 // Serial Monitor @ 9600 baud
24 Serial.begin(9600);
25 // Enable the IR Receiver
26 irrecv.enableIRIn();
27 }
28
29 void loop(){
30 if (irrecv.decode(&results)){
31 // Print Code in HEX
32 Serial.println(results.value, HEX);
33 irrecv.resume();
34 }
35 }
We start the sketch by including the IRRemote library. Next we

define a pin for our IR Receiver, after which we create two
objects for the IR Receiver and the Results. We then move on
to the Setup routine.
We’ll be using a serial monitor to display our results so we

setup the connection, this example uses 9600 baud but any
speed will do – just be sure to set your Serial Monitor window
to match the speed you have chosen. We also enable the IR
Receiver in the setup routine.
Finally the loop. We use an If statement to verify that we have

indeed received something and have a valid result. We then
print the result value in hexadecimal, which is the standard 
way of displaying IR receiver codes. Finally we resume
listening and repeat the loop.
Compile the code and upload it to your Arduino. Next open

your serial monitor. Now grab an IR Remote control (just about
any one will do) and aim it at the IR receiver module. If
everything is working you’ll see the codes displayed in the
serial monitor.
You may note a number of codes that read “FFFFFFFF”. These

are “repeat codes” which are used with most remote controls
to repeat the last key pressed, they are generated when you
hold a key down. We will see how to deal with these a bit later.
Determining Manufacturer Codes

As I mentioned previously there are a number of groups of IR
codes used by various manufacturers. For the experiments
where we emulate IR Remote controls we’ll need to know
which manufacturer codes to use.
The next sketch expands upon the last one to include a

display of the Manufacturer Code along with the HEX codes.
The wiring for this experiment is identical to the previous
experiment.
1 /*
3 IR-Rcv-Demo2.ino
4 Determine IR codes manufacturer type with IR Receiver
5 Displays results on Serial Monitor
8 */
9
12
15
19
20 void setup(){
21 // Serial Monitor @ 9600 baud
22 Serial.begin(9600);
25 }
26
27 void loop(){
29
30
Serial.println(results.value, HEX);
switch (results.decode_type){

31 case NEC:
32 Serial.println("NEC");
33 break;
34 case SONY:
35 Serial.println("SONY");
36 break;
37 case RC5:
38 Serial.println("RC5");
39 break;
40 case RC6:
41 Serial.println("RC6");
42 break;
43 case DISH:
44 Serial.println("DISH");
45 break;
46 case SHARP:
47 Serial.println("SHARP");
48 break;
49 case JVC:
50 Serial.println("JVC");
51 break;
52 case SANYO:
53 Serial.println("SANYO");
54 break;
55 case MITSUBISHI:
56 Serial.println("MITSUBISHI");
57 break;
58 case SAMSUNG:
59 Serial.println("SAMSUNG");
60 break;
61 case LG:
62 Serial.println("LG");
63 break;
64 case WHYNTER:
65 Serial.println("WHYNTER");
66 break;
67 case AIWA_RC_T501:
68 Serial.println("AIWA_RC_T501");
69 break;
70 case PANASONIC:
71 Serial.println("PANASONIC");
72 break;
73 case DENON:
74 Serial.println("DENON");
75 break;
76 default:
77 case UNKNOWN:
78 Serial.println("UNKNOWN");
79 break;
80 }
81 irrecv.resume();
82 }
83 }
The sketch is identical to the first one until we get to the loop.
The loop starts as before with an If statement to verify that we

have indeed received a valid bit of data. Once again we
display the HEX code for the data in the serial monitor.
We then go on to evaluate the “decode_type”, which is related

to the manufacturer code received. This is done in a Case
statement, for each case we print out the manufacturer in the

serial monitor and then break out of the case statement. If we
can’t determine the manufacturer we just print “Unknown”.
Again we finish and repeat the loop. The results on the serial
monitor will now display both the HEX value and Manufacturer
name for each code received.
You might want to make note of some of this information for

the next experiment where we will put our knowledge to
something more practical – repurposing unused buttons on
our remote controls.
Repurposing Remote Controls

If you’re anything like me you likely have an abundance of
remote controls around your home, maybe even several in the
same room. Chances are that some of them have a LOT of
buttons, including buttons that are of no use to you as they
work with additional equipment that you don’t even own.
The example I use in the video is for an RCA television set that
I own. The remote for this TV has buttons for a DVD or Blu-Ray
player that I don’t own. These buttons are useless to me so I
thought I’d put them to work controlling other things. With an
Arduino and the IR Remote library it’s pretty easy to do that.
Before I started coding I needed to get both the HEX code for
each of the buttons I was interested in. In my example I chose
to use two buttons, a Red one with a HEX value of FECA35
and a Yellow one whose value turned out to be FE8A75.
Of course if you choose to perform the same experiment you’ll

be using one of your own remote controls so you’ll need to
use one of the previous sketches to determine and record the
HEX codes for the buttons you are interested in.
To demo this I hooked up the Arduino with the IR Receiver

module and a couple of LED’s, each LED also has a dropping
resistor (I used 330 ohms but anything around that value will
work fine).

Armed with the two HEX codes I wrote the following sketch. It
detects the two aforementioned buttons and does the
following:
When the REd button is pressed the Red LED in my

experiment will flash on for two seconds and then turn
off.
When the YELLOW button is pressed the Yellow LED will
turn on and stay on. The next time that the YELLOW
button is pressed the Yellow LED will turn off. In other
words it’s a toggle switch.
So let’s take a look at the sketch:
1 /*
3 IR-Rcv-Demo3.ino
4 Control LED's using Unused IR Remote keys
5
8 */
9
12
15
16 // Define LED pin constants
17 const int redPin = 8;
18 const int yellowPin = 7;
19
20 // Define integer to remember toggle state
21 int togglestate = 0;
22
26
27
28 void setup(){
31 // Set LED pins as Outputs
32 pinMode(redPin, OUTPUT);
33
34
pinMode(yellowPin, OUTPUT);
} 
35
36
37 void loop(){
39
40 switch(results.value){
41 case 0xFECA35: //Red Keypad Button
42 // Turn on LED for 2 Seconds
43 digitalWrite(redPin, HIGH);
44 delay(2000);
45 digitalWrite(redPin, LOW);
46 break;
47
48 case 0xFE8A75: //Yellow Keypad Button
49 // Toggle LED On or Off
50 if(togglestate==0){
51 digitalWrite(yellowPin, HIGH);
52 togglestate=1;
53 }
54 else {
55 digitalWrite(yellowPin, LOW);
56 togglestate=0;
57 }
58 break;
59
60 }
61 irrecv.resume();
62 }
63
64 }
Again we start by including the IR Remote library and defining

a pin for the IR Receiver module. We also define a couple of
pins that we will connect our LED’s to the Arduino with. None
of this is cast in stone so you may use other pins if you like,
just be sure to reflect your changes in the sketch.
Next we define a variable I called “togglestate”, this is used to

represent the last state (on or off) of the Yellow LED which
you’ll recall is being used as a toggle.
We then move on to setup the Receiver and Results objects as

we did in the previous sketches.
In the setup loop we no longer define a serial port connection

as there is no serial monitor being used. We just enable the IR
Receiver and use the Arduino pinmode function to set the two
LED pins as outputs.
On to the loop! Again we use an If statement to check to see

we have a valid code received and then we evaluate the
results with a couple of case statements.
In the first case statement we look for the code “FECA35”

which means that the Red button has been pressed. If it 
evaluates then we turn on the Red LED, wait two seconds and
then turn it off. We then break out of the case statement.
The second case statement looks for the code “FE8A75”,

meaning that the Yellow button has been pressed. In this case
we want to toggle the Yellow LED so we use an If statement to
evaluate the current value of “togglestate”. If “togglestate” is
zero the the LED was off so we turn it on and then set
“togglestate” to 1. If the “togglestate” is already 1 then we
turn off the yellow LED and set “togglestate” to zero. We then
exploit the case statement and wait until another key press is
detected.
In “real life” this circuit and code can have many practical
applications, especially if you replace the LED’s with relays
and use them to control devices. If you decide to do that be
VERY CAREFUL as you’ll likely be working with AC line
voltage. Don’t experiment directly with high voltage, use all the
proper wiring precautions and test everything with a
multimeter before you hook up any high voltage. If you are not
comfortable working with line voltage then simply don’t do it!
Emulating IR Remote Controls

So far we have been experimenting with receiving and
decoding remote control signals. Now let’s move on to
transmitting them.
The wonderful IR Remote library also has facilities to transmit

IR codes using an IR LED. An IR LED is used pretty well in the
same way as a visible light LED except of course it transmits
light in the infrared band so you can’t directly see it.
Remember that you can use the camera in your phone or
tablet if you need to “see” the IR light.
IR LEDs are quite inexpensive so stock up on a few the next

time you place an order for parts on eBay or visit your local
electronics store.
In this experiment I’ll use an IR LED with an Arduino and a

push button to turn on (and off) my television. While this is a
simple application you could extend it to control several
different devices with the push of a button. You could also
design a custom or simplified remote control to make it easier

to control all of the home entertainment equipment you have
piled up in your living room or bedroom.
Manufacturers Codes and Bits

Before we begin we’ll need to use the second experiment to
determine both the HEX code and Manufacturers code for the
device(s) we want to control. Once we do that we will need
another bit of information – the number of bits to send with
each code. This differs between manufacturers and, as it
turns out, isn’t the easiest information to obtain.
I’ve summarized a few of the more popular codes here in a

chart, along with links to get more details (if I have them).
There is also very detailed information in some of the links in
the Resource Box at the end of this article. If you find info that
I’m missing here I’d appreciate you make a comment to share
it with others.
Manufacturer Code Number of Bits More Info
NEC 32 Bits NEC – More Info
Sony 12 or 20 Bits Sony – More Info
RC5 12 RC5 -More Info
RC6 20 RC6 -More Info
Denon 15 Bits
Motorola 9 Bits
Samsung 20 Bits
Additionally the Sony and RC6 codes are sent three times for
each button press while most of the others are only sent once.
Assuming you can find the information for the button(s) you
need to emulate we can move on to building our circuit and
coding for it.
Arduino Remote Emulator


In my simple experiment I’m going to emulate the Power
button for the same RCA TV remote control I used earlier. I
have determined that this button sends a code of “FEA857”
and uses an NEC code that has a 32 bit bitstream.
One idiosyncrasy of the IR Remote library is that in order to

send IR codes your IR LED needs to be on Pin 3 of the
Arduino. Unlike the other demos this is cast in stone and can’t
be changed, this is because Pin 3 is associated with an
internal timer within the Arduino which the library uses to
transmit codes.
Aside from the IR LED (and its associated 150 ohm dropping
resistor) the circuit also uses a push button with a 10k
pulldown resistor. The wiring is as follows:
Now that we have hooked up the circuit let’s take a look at the
sketch that is used to send our power code to the television.
1 /*
2 IR Transmitter Demonstration 1
3 IR-Xmit-Demo1.ino
4 Control TV using IR Library
5 IR LED must use Pin #3
8 */
9
11
13
14 // Define switch pin
15 const int switchPin = 7;
16
17 // Define a variable for the button state
18 int buttonState = 0;
19
20 // Create IR Send Object
21 IRsend irsend;
22
23 void setup()
24 {
25
26
// Set Switch pin as Input
pinMode(switchPin, INPUT);

27 }
28
29 void loop() {
30
31 // Set button state depending upon switch position
32 buttonState = digitalRead(switchPin);
33
34 // If button is pressed send power code command
35 if (buttonState == HIGH) {
36 irsend.sendNEC(0xFEA857, 32); // TV power code
37 }
38
39 // Add a small delay before repeating
40 delay(200);
41
42 }
As always we start by including the versatile IR Remote library.

We also define the pin used for the push button, as well as a
variable “buttonstate” that holds the value (on or off) of the
push button.
Next we’ll create an IR Send object as this time we’ll be using

the library to send IR codes instead of receiving them
The Setup routine is pretty simple as all we are doing is

defining the push button pin as an input.
The loop is also pretty simple. We check the button state

using the Arduino “digitalRead” function and assign the state
to the ‘buttonstate” variable. Then we use an If statement to
determine if the button has been pressed.
If the button was pressed we use the libraries “irsend”

function to transmit our code. The “irsend” function uses a
“”sendNEC” property as our code is in NEC format (there is
also a “sendSONY, sendRC6 and other properties for the other
types of remote codes). The “irsend” function uses the code
we wish to send (“FEA857” in my case) and the number of bits
(32 in my case) as parameters.
All that is left is to add a tiny delay to debounce the push

button. And it works, I can control my television with the push
of a button – imagine that!
An IR Remote for your Arduino

Projects

So far we have experimented with decoding and emulating the
remote controls we have around the home. It’s now time to put
an IR remote control to work in our own Arduino project.
There are a number of inexpensive remote control kits you can

pick up on eBay and Amazon. Each one comes with a remote
as well as an IR receiver module and an IR LED. They are all
very inexpensive and ideal for creating our own remote control
for our Arduino projects.
Using these remotes is exactly the same as using the

commercial IR remotes we have been experimenting with, and
you may use all of the previous sketches and wiring diagrams
to put them to work.
Using the Repeat Function

One thing we have only touched on is the “repeat” function. As
you may recall most remote controls (including the ones you
get on eBay and Amazon) transmit a code of “FFFFFFFF”
whenever a button is held down. This code indicates that the
receiver should repeat the function until the button is
released.
You have likely seen this in action on your own equipment as

this function is used for controls like volume, brightness and
contrast on most televisions.
Let’s put the repeat function to work in our own Arduino

project!
In this project I’m going to control a small servo motor with

one of those inexpensive custom remote controls. I have
decided to only use three buttons for this demonstration, of
course you’re free to expand upon this and use all of them if
you wish.
My project will control the servo motor as follows:
The servo will start in the center position.

Pressing the Left (<) button once will move the servo two
degrees to the left. Holding it down will make it
continuously move left until it reaches the end of travel.
Pressing the Right (>) button once will move the servo
right by two degrees. Holding it down will make it
continuously move right until it reaches the end of travel.
Pressing the OK button will center the servo. 
To achieve this I wired up my circuit as follows:
Note that I used a separate 5-volt power supply for the servo
motor instead of using the Arduino 5-volt output. I found that
the servo put too much electrical noise onto the 5-volt line and
this interfered with the IR Sensor. I tried putting a 100uf
capacitor across the power supply line to attempt to reduce
the noise, it did but it still did not eliminate it completely. So I
used my 5-volt bench supply to drive the servo.
If you wish you can also use a 6-volt battery to power the
servo as most small servos are rated to accept 6-volts. Just
don’t use the Arduino supply!
Now onto the sketch that makes the magic happen:
1 /*
3 IR-Rcv-Demo4.ino
4 Demonstrates IR codes with Custom Remote and IR Receive
5 Makes use of Repeat function
6
9 */
10
13
14 // Include Arduino Servo Library
15 #include <Servo.h>
16
17 // Define Sensor Pin
19
20 // Define Servo Pin
21 const int SERVO_PIN = 6;
22
23 // Define Variable for Servo position
24 // Start at 90 Degrees (Center position)
25 int pos = 90;
26
27 // Define variable to store last code received
28 unsigned long lastCode;
29
30
31
// Define IR Receiver and Results Objects
IRrecv irrecv(RECV_PIN);

33
34 // Create servo object
35 Servo myservo;
36
37 void setup()
38 {
39 // Start the receiver
41
42 // Attach the servo
43 myservo.attach(SERVO_PIN);
44
45 // Start with Servo in Center
46 myservo.write(pos);
47 }
48
49 void loop() {
50 if(irrecv.decode(&results)) //this checks to see if a cod
51 {
52
53 if(results.value == 0xFFFFFFFF)
54 {
55 // If Repeat then use last code received
56 results.value = lastCode;
57 }
58
59 if(results.value == 0xFF22DD)
60 {
61 // Left Button Pressed
62 lastCode = results.value;
63 // Move left 2 degrees
64 pos += 2;
65 // Prevent position above 180
66 if(pos > 180){pos = 180;}
68 }
69
70 if(results.value == 0xFFC23D)
71 {
72 // Right Button Pressed
74 // Move Right 2 degrees
75 pos -= 2;
76 // Prevent position below 0
77 if(pos < 0){pos = 0;}
79 }
80
81 if(results.value == 0xFF02FD)
82 {
83 // Center Button Pressed
85 // Move to Center
86 pos = 90;
88 }
89
90 // Add delay to prevent false readings
91 delay(30);
92 //receive the next value
93 irrecv.resume();
94 }
95
96 }

Again we begin by including the IR Remote library. We also
include the Arduino Servo Library which is already included
with the Arduino IDE.
Next we define constants representing the pins that our IR

Sensor and Servo are connected to. There is also a variable
called “pos” defined to hold the value (in degrees) that our
servo is positioned. As we want to start the servo in its center
position we initialize this with a value of 90. Finally we define
a long variable called “lastcode” that holds the most recent
key code value, we will use this with the repeat function to
“remember” what key we are supposed to be repeating.
Next we create object for the IR Receiver and the Results, as

well as an object representing the servo.
In the Setup routine we enable the IR Receiver, attach the

servo to the pin we defined earlier and move the servo to the
center position.
Now the loop. As before we will check to see if we have a valid

result code from the IR Receiver and assuming we do we
check to see what the code was using a series of If
statements.
First we check to see if we have received the repeat code,

FFFFFFFF. If we do we replace the value of the result with the
previously received code, held in the “lastcode” variable. It’s
very important that we execute this If statement first.
After that we go through a series of If statements that check

for our button presses. If we find the Left button code has
been received then we add 2 to the value of “pos” and move
the servo to that position. We also check to be sure that “pos”
does not exceed 180 as that’s the maximum value for our
servo.
Similarly we check to see if the Right button was pressed, if it

was then we subtract 2 from the value of pos and move the
servo accordingly. Again we test to ensure that the value of
“pos” doesn’t go below zero.
Finally we check to see if the OK button was pressed. If it was

we reset the value of “pos” to 90, which will center the servo.

A small time delay was added to the end of the code to
prevent false readings, you may experiment with the value if
you wish.
After coding and compiling we upload the code to the Arduino

and test it out. Check out the video to see it working.
Conclusion
As you can see by using the IR Remote library and an Arduino
we can really do a lot with IR Remote controls. We can
repurpose existing controls, build custom controls and design
projects with our own remotes.
I’d really be interested to hear what you manage to build using

this information. Please share any of your designs along with
any questions you might have in the comments below.
Now go out there and control the world!
Resources
Arduino Sketches All of the code from the experiments in
this article.
Ken Shirrif’s Blog The creator of the IRRemote Library for

Arduino has excellent information on his personal blog.
ArduinoInfo IR Remote Page Lots of useful information

about IR Remote sensors and remotes.
IR Communication – Getting Started Some great

information from the good folks at Sparkfun.
Using IR Library on Arduino Adafruit has some great

information on their blog.
1838T Spec Sheets Specifications for the 1838T Infrared

Receiver
IR Remote Library The IR Remote Library on GitHub.

Summary
Article Name Using IR Remote Controls with Arduino
Description Learn to use and re-purpose IR Remote

Controls in your Arduino projects. Receive
and transmit infrared control signals with
the Arduino.
Author DroneBot Workshop
Publisher Name DroneBot Workshop
Publisher Logo
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with nRF24L01+
February 27, 2016 March 19, 2018
March 10, 2018 In "Arduino" In "Arduino"
In "Arduino"
Tagged on: Arduino Tutorial


DroneBot Workshop January 5, 2018 Arduino
6 Comments
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6 Leave a Reply
Join the discussion...
newest oldest most voted
B Mc Carthy
Hallo Droneworkshop I’m Brian from Limburg the Netherlands.

I have loved experimenting with the remote on the Arduino and I
was so encious to controll those two LEDs. After copying your
code, I got an error message:
‘irrecv’ has no type of name!
on line command 17 I’ve discovered:
const int redPin = 8; irrecv.resume(); . What does the
“irrecv.resume();” do in that line? After copying and compiling again,
the same error message appeared again, caused by irrecv.resume(),
so I’ve put slashes in front of that command and the program
worked.
Greetings.
B. Mc Carthy
0 Reply 6 months ago
Bryan Young 
“If the button was pressed we use the libraries “irsend” function to
transmit our code. The “irsend” function uses a “”sendNEC”
property as our code is in NEC format (there is also a “sendSONY,
sendRC6 and other properties for the other types of remote codes).”
sendSONY is actually “sendSony”.
easy mistake to make as they have use random formatting
DroneBot Workshop
Oops! Thanks for pointing that one out Bryan!
noob-code-bunny
Hello I really enjoy your tutorials and hope someone can help me
with my code as i cannot seem to find why its not working probably
as I’m a noob.
Here is my code
https://pastebin.com/BzEXYbND
Marco Macrì
hi, i want to say that i followed your video untill the end and i found
it very interesting. you explain concepts narrowly. now, i have a
quetsion, what model is your tv? i have an anonymous tv which
remote is the same as yours: i would like to pair my tv with a
universal remote, but i cant’ t find the model. i detected the code
with my arduino and it is the same of your remote. please, i need
help. D:
0 Reply 25 days ago
DroneBot Workshop
I just checked the television, it’s an RCA model

RLEDV2488A. Hope that helps, best of luck with with
your project!

0 Reply 25 days ago
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IR Remote controls are everywhere these days, you probably

3.3 “Seeing” Infrared Light

4 Decoding IR Remote Controls

4.2 Getting Remote HEX Codes

5 Repurposing Remote Controls

6 Emulating IR Remote Controls

How IR Remote Controls Work

IR remote controls, as the name would imply, make use of

IR remotes make use of IR LED’s which are very inexpensive, in

Most IR remotes use a modulation frequency of 38 kHz

Infrared light covers a broad range of the spectrum, from 700

A great resource for ﬁnding manufacturer codes is the IRDB,

Working with IR Remote Controls

Ground. Labeled GND or G on most modules.

Using an IR receiver with an Arduino is as simple as supplying

The IR LED is packaged in the same package as a visible LED.

As with any LED light is emitted from the top of an IR LED.

The way to get around this is to use a video camera that is

While dedicated cameras (such as a DSLR) have IR ﬁlters they

It’s pretty easy to see if your phone or tablet is capable of

Decoding IR Remote Controls

You’ll also need an IR Sensor. I’m using one that is on a

Before we begin you’ll need to install a new library into your

The IR Remote Library

While you can get the Arduino IR Remote Library on GitHub it

The beauty of this library is that it can be used for both

Getting Remote HEX Codes

We start the sketch by including the IRRemote library. Next we

We’ll be using a serial monitor to display our results so we

Finally the loop. We use an If statement to verify that we have

Compile the code and upload it to your Arduino. Next open

You may note a number of codes that read “FFFFFFFF”. These

Determining Manufacturer Codes

The next sketch expands upon the last one to include a

The loop starts as before with an If statement to verify that we

We then go on to evaluate the “decode_type”, which is related

You might want to make note of some of this information for

Repurposing Remote Controls

Of course if you choose to perform the same experiment you’ll

To demo this I hooked up the Arduino with the IR Receiver

When the REd button is pressed the Red LED in my

So let’s take a look at the sketch:

Again we start by including the IR Remote library and deﬁning

Next we deﬁne a variable I called “togglestate”, this is used to

We then move on to setup the Receiver and Results objects as

In the setup loop we no longer deﬁne a serial port connection

On to the loop! Again we use an If statement to check to see

In the ﬁrst case statement we look for the code “FECA35”

The second case statement looks for the code “FE8A75”,

Emulating IR Remote Controls

The wonderful IR Remote library also has facilities to transmit

IR LEDs are quite inexpensive so stock up on a few the next

In this experiment I’ll use an IR LED with an Arduino and a

Manufacturers Codes and Bits

I’ve summarized a few of the more popular codes here in a

Manufacturer Code Number of Bits More Info

NEC 32 Bits NEC – More Info

Sony 12 or 20 Bits Sony – More Info

RC5 12 RC5 -More Info

RC6 20 RC6 -More Info