Dog Ludwig The Dog PDF

LittleOwlsHut
www.LittleOwlsHut.com
Crochet
Pattern
By Svetlana Pertseva
Skill level: Experienced

Ludwig the Dog
About this pattern Materials and tools
The toy is crocheted in ✓ Main yarn – I used 170 g of brown “Flora” by Knit Style (100%
continuous spirals without viscose, 240m/100g) and 30 g of grey for the stripes. If you don’t want
joining the rounds. You will need to make stripes for the body, you will need 200 g of brown color only.
a stitch marker to keep track of
where the beginning of each ✓ White yarn for the whites of the eye – see gauge section. I recommend
round starts. Move the marker up that you use smooth yarn (acrylic, cotton). I used 5 g of white “Nubuk”
to the first stitch of the next by Kartopu (22% acrylic, 78% polyamide 550m/100g).
round after finishing the previous ✓ Black yarn for the nose – see gauge section.
one.
✓ Pink yarn for the mouth – see gauge section.
If you don't have a stitch marker
you can always use a scrap of Tip: You can use any yarn (wool, acrylic, etc). The thicker the yarn, the
contrasting yarn instead. You can bigger your toy will be. See the gauge section to check if you chose the
see it in my photos.
right yarns.
I use USA terminology for my Tip: If you need exactly the same yarn visit this shop
pattern (don’t worry if you use https://www.etsy.com/shop/LittleOwlsHutRUSSIAN
UK terms, all the differences are
explained in the pattern). ✓ Matching crochet hook(s). I used 2 mm crochet hook. However, I had
to use 1.75 mm crochet hook for the white yarn to fit the gauge. Make
swatches and decide on the hook size.
Finished size ✓ Two black beads – I used 7 mm in diameter.
Approx. 33 cm (13 inches) tall
✓ Stuffing
when seated using the materials
✓ Any material for tinting (optional) – I used oil paints.
stated in the pattern.
Knitted sweater (see gauge section)
✓ any yarn (500-600m in a 100g skein)
Happy ✓ a pair of matching double-pointed knitting needles (2 mm)
crocheting! ✓ circular knitting needles to knit the collar (2 mm)
www.LittleOwlsHut.com Any questions or comments: info@LittleOwlsHut.com

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet pattern 2018
Tip (make it right) Tip (make it right) Abbreviations

If there are no special notes, the toy When making toys the right side
is crocheted under both parts of the looks like this:
loop. In some rows, there are ch(s) = chain(s)
special notes: ‘into the front loop st(s) = stitch(es)
only’ or ‘into the back loop only’. In sl st = slip stitch
that case, you need to follow these sc(s) = single crochet(s)
instructions. inc(s) = increasing(s) (2 sc in 1 st)
dec(s) = decreasing(s) (sc2tog)
Rnd = round
And the backside looks like this:
dc = double crochet
If there is a record in the brackets

in the pattern, multiplied by some
number, for example (3 sc, 1 inc) x
3, it means you need to repeat this
action 3 times, that is 3 sc, 1 inc, 3
sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc.
TIP (yarn)
If you use different yarn, the toy will be bigger or smaller and you will need
more or less yarn and wire than stated in the pattern (i.e. thicker yarn will
produce a larger toy and you may require more yarn).
Tip (gauge)
When making toys, you should use a much smaller hook than
recommended for the yarn you choose.
Make sure you crochet tight enough; otherwise, the stuffing will show
through the holes.
USA/UK terminology comparison chart. Skill levels

Abbreviations USA Abbreviations UK
Projects for first-time crocheters using
ch - chain ch - chain basic stitches. Minimal shaping.
sc - single crochet dc - double crochet
hdc - half double crochet htr - half treble Projects using yarn with basic stitches,
dc - double crochet tr - treble repetitive stitch patterns,
tr - treble (triple crochet) dtr - double treble simple color changes, and simple
dtr - double treble tr tr - triple treble shaping and finishing.
sl st - slip stitch sl - slip stitch
Projects using a variety of techniques,
such as basic lace patterns or color
Other differences in crochet terminology used: patterns, mid-level shaping and
finishing.
Terminology USA Terminology UK
Projects with intricate stitch patterns,
fasten off cast off techniques and dimension,
skip miss such as non-repeating patterns, multi-
gauge tension color techniques, fine threads, small
yarn over (yo) yarn over hook (yoh) hooks, detailed shaping and refined
finishing.
2
Tip (shift stitch) Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring

Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts
While working, you will need to keep the work
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts
symmetrical. As work tends to twist to the right
Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 24 sts
you need to adjust the position of the marker
Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 30 sts
periodically (beginning of round). If you notice
Compare your swatches with the swatches in the
that the marker moves right, you need to work
next picture. They should be the same size. If
one extra stitch in the end of round and move the
not, take bigger or smaller hook than you used
marker for one stitch (now 2nd st of the round
before (depending on the result) and work other
becomes 1st). If you notice that the marker
swatches. If it does not help – choose different
moves left, you need to unravel one stitch (or
yarns and make other swatches. When making
more if needed). This is shift stitch – it is not
the swatch for the black yarn, your swatch for the
included in description of rounds.
nose may vary from the size of the swatch of your
Usually you have to do shift stitches every 3-5
main yarn (but not larger), to the size in the
rounds (depending on the yarn, hook and your
picture (but not smaller).
gauge). To check if it is time to work shift stitch
fold your work in half and check if marker still
goes straight.
You should keep the marker in a straight line on
some parts of the toy. Instructions for the marker
are given in the description of each part of the
toy if needed.
If you need more details about shift stitch please
visit out blog https://goo.gl/V8oGtF
Gauge (if you want the toy to be

GAUGE FOR SWEATER
the size mentioned in the 40 rows x 22 sts = 10 cm x 10 cm
pattern)
Crochet swatches using your yarns and matching TIP (round marker)
crochet hook(s) to make sure that you have Do not remove the round markers until you
chosen the right yarns and hooks for the toy of finish assembling the toy or it is said in the
the size stated in the pattern. pattern.
Instruction for all swatches:
3
Need help?
If you need any help with this pattern you
are welcome to ask questions in our
Ravelry group.
https://goo.gl/3etv5n
Right foot
Search for the thread about this pattern
Stuff as you go quite firmly. Keep the marker
using pattern name. straight along the sole of the foot.
Ladies who already made this toy would Ch 10 and work around the foundation chain
be able to help you with this project. starting from 2nd ch from the hook:
Rnd 1: 8 sc, 4 sc in last st, rotate and work down
Legs the other side of the foundation chain: 7 sc, 3 sc

in one st = 22 sts
with brown yarn
Stuff the toes quite firmly as you go. There is no
need to keep the marker straight.
Big toe (1 for each leg – total 2)
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts Work 4 sc and move the round marker. This is
Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts the new beginning of the rounds.
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: 1 sc in each st around = 18 sts
Rnd 7: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 = 12 sts
Rnd 8: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 3 = 9 sts
Rnd 9: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 3 = 6 sts
Fasten off. There is no need to leave a tail.
Small toe (2 for each leg – total 4) Rnd 2: 1 sc in each st around = 22 sts
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts

Rnd 2: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 3 = 9 sts
Rnd 5: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 3 = 6 sts
Assemble the foot by joining the toes.
4
Rnd 3: 7 sc, 3 sc hooking through the sts of the

big toe and the sts of the foot, 3 sc hooking
through the sts of the 1st small toe and the sts of
the foot, 3 sc hooking through the sts of the 2nd
small toe and the sts of the foot, 6 sc = 22 sts
Rnd 4: 7 sc, 3 sc along the unworked sts of the

big toe, 3 sc along the unworked sts of the 1st
small toe, 3 sc along the unworked sts of the 2nd
small toe, 6 sc = 22 sts

Rnd 7: 1 dec, 18 sc, 1 dec = 20 sts
Rnd 9: 1 sc in each st around = 18 sts
Rnd 10: 16 sc, 1 dec = 17 sts
Rnd 12: 15 sc, 1 dec = 16 sts
Rnd 14: 14 sc, 1 dec = 15 sts
5
Rnd 25: 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc =

19 sts
Rnd 26: 2 sc, 1 inc, 13 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc = 21 sts
Rnd 27: 6 sc, ch 9, skip 9, 6 sc = 21 sts
Rnd 28: 6 sc, 9 sc along the chain of sts, 6 sc =
21 sts
Rnd 29: (5 sc, 1 dec) x 3 = 18 sts
Rnd 30: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 = 12 sts Assemble the foot by joining the toes.
Rnd 31: 6 dec = 6 sts Rnd 3: 7 sc, 3 sc hooking through the sts of the
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Close up the opening 1st small toe and the sts of the foot, 3 sc hooking
and weave in loose end. through the sts of the 2nd small toe and the sts of
Left foot the foot, 3 sc hooking through the sts of the big
Stuff as you go quite firmly. Keep the marker toe and the sts of the foot, 6 sc = 22 sts
straight along the sole of the foot.
Ch 10 and work around the foundation chain
starting from 2nd ch from the hook:
Rnd 1: 8 sc, 4 sc in last st, rotate and work down
the other side of the foundation chain: 7 sc, 3 sc
in one st = 22 sts
Work 4 sc and move the round marker. This is

the new beginning of the rounds. Rnd 4: 7 sc, 3 sc along the unworked sts of the
1st small toe, 3 sc along the unworked sts of the
2nd small toe, 3 sc along the unworked sts of the
big toe, 6 sc = 22 sts
Rnd 10: 1 dec, 16 sc = 17 sts
6
Rnd 12: 1 dec, 15 sc = 16 sts

Rnd 14: 1 dec, 14 sc = 15 sts
Rnd 25: 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc =
19 sts
Rnd 27: 6 sc, ch 9, skip 9, 6 sc = 21 sts
Leg
Stuff firmly as you go. There is no need to keep
the marker straight.
Rnd 28: 6 sc, 9 sc along the chain of sts, 6 sc = Crochet around the opening created in Rnds 28-
21 sts 29. Start at the back center and work 18 sc along
Rnd 29: (5 sc, 1 dec) х 3 = 18 sts the sts of the opening. It is not counted as Rnd 1.
Rnd 30: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 = 12 sts Rnds 1-2: 1 sc in each st around = 18 sts
Rnd 31: 6 dec = 6 sts

Fasten off, leaving a tail. Close up the opening
and weave in loose end.
Rnd 3: (1 dec, 4 sc) x 3 = 15 sts

Rnd 5: (1 dec, 3 sc) x 3 = 12 sts
Rnd 21: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 3 = 15 sts
Rnd 22: (4 sc, 1 inc) x 3 = 18 sts
7
Assembling
Stuff as you go quite firmly. Keep the marker
straight until you reach Rnd 18. There is no need
to keep it straight after Rnd 18.
Rnd 8: 1 sc along the finger #2, 6 sc along finger
#1, 3 sc along finger #2, 6 sc along finger #3, 2 sc
along finger #2 = 18 sts
Arms
with brown yarn
Stuff the fingers quite firmly as you go. There is
no need to keep the marker straight. The round
marker travels along the outer side of the hand.
Finger – make 8 – 4 for each leg
Rnd 6: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 3 = 9 sts
Rnd 7: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 3 = 6 sts
Fasten off for the first 3 fingers for each hand,
continue on to Rnd 8 for the last finger.
8

finger #4, 6 sc = 20 sts
Rnd 9: 5 sc, 2 inc, (3 sc in one st) x 3, 2 inc, 6 sc

= 28 sts
Rnd 15: 6 sc, 8 dec, 6 sc = 20 sts
Right hand
Rnd 16: 11 sc, 3 sc hooking through the sts of
the 4th finger and the hand, 6 sc = 20 sts
Left hand
Rnd 16: 6 sc, 3 sc hooking through the sts of the
4th finger and the hand, 11 sc = 20 sts
finger #4, 11 sc = 20 sts
Arms (both worked the same way)
Rnd 18: 9 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc = 19 sts
Rnd 19: 9 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc = 18 sts
Rnd 20: 8 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc = 17 sts
9

Rnd 4: 1 inc, 5 sc = 7 sts
Rnd 13: 1 inc, 8 sc = 10 sts
Rnd 21: 8 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 16 sts
Rnd 16: 1 inc, 9 sc = 11 sts
Rnd 22: 7 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 15 sts
Rnd 23: 7 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc = 14 sts
Rnd 19: 1 inc, 10 sc = 12 sts
Rnd 24: 6 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc = 13 sts
Rnd 25: 6 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc = 12 sts
Rnd 22: 1 inc, 11 sc = 13 sts
Rnd 25: 1 inc, 12 sc = 14 sts
Rnd 28: 1 inc, 13 sc = 15 sts
Rnd 35: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 3 = 12 sts
Rnds 26-60: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts Rnd 36: (1 sc, 1 dec) х 4 = 8 sts
Fasten off. There is no need to leave a tail for
sewing.
Tail
with brown yarn Ear (make 2)
Stuff quite firmly as you go. There is no need to with brown yarn
keep the marker straight.
Do not stuff. Keep the round marker straight
along the center.
10
Ch 11 and work around the foundation chain Rnd 12: 9 sc, 1 dec, 18 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc = 38 sts
starting from 2nd ch from the hook: Rnd 13: 1 sc in each st around = 38 sts
Rnd 1: 9 sc, 3 sc in last ch, rotate and work Rnd 14: 9 sc, 1 dec, 17 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc = 36 sts
down the other side of the foundation chain: 8 Rnd 15: 1 sc in each st around = 36 sts
sc, 1 inc = 22 sts Rnd 16: 8 sc, 1 dec, 16 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc = 34 sts
Rnd 18: 7 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc = 32 sts
Work 5 sc and move the round marker.
Rnd 3: 5 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) х 2, 1 inc, 9 sc, (1 inc, 1 Rnd 40: 4 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc = 16 sts
sc) х 2, 1 inc, 4 sc = 34 sts Rnds 41-47: 1 sc in each st around = 16 sts
Fasten off. There is no need to leave a tail for
sewing.
Rnd 4: 6 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) х 2, 1 inc, 12 sc, (1 inc, 1

sc) х 2, 1 inc, 6 sc = 40 sts
11
Mouth
Nose
with pink yarn
with black yarn
There is no need to keep the marker straight. I
Keep the marker straight with shift sts if needed
worked the mouth inside out.
along the front center.
Ch 13 and work starting from 2nd ch from the
hook around the foundation chain:
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 1: 11 sc, 4 sc in last ch, rotate and work
Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 24 sts
down the other side of the foundation chain: 10
Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 30 sts
sc, 3 sc in one st = 28 sts
Rnd 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 36 sts
Rnd 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 42 sts
Rnd 8: (6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 48 sts
Work 6 sc and move the round marker.
Rnd 13: 7 sc, (1 dec, 2 sc) х 2, 1 dec, 14 sc, 1 dec,
(2 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 7 sc = 42 sts
(1 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 6 sc = 36 sts
(1 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 5 sc = 30 sts Rnd 2: 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 10 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 1
Rnd 16: 7 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 28 sts inc, 5 sc = 34 sts
12
Close up the opening by sewing or working sl st.
Rnd 3: 6 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) х 2, 1 inc, 12 sc, (1 inc, 1

sc) х 2, 1 inc, 6 sc = 40 sts

Head
Rnd 7: into the back loops only – 11 sc, place an with brown yarn
additional marker, 22 sc, place an additional The round marker travels from the top of the
marker, 11 sc = 44 sts head to the tip of the nose. Keep it straight with
Work into both loops of the stitch. shift sts if needed. Stuff firmly as you go but do
Rnd 8: 9 sc, 2 dec, 18 sc, 2 dec, 9 sc = 40 sts not overstuff.
Rnd 9: 6 sc, (dec, 1 sc) х 2, 1 dec, 12 sc, (dec, 1 Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts
sc) х 2, 1 dec, 6 sc = 34 sts Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts
Rnd 10: 5 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc, 2 dec, 10 sc, 2 dec, 1 sc, Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts
1 dec, 5 sc = 28 sts Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 24 sts
Stuff firmly. Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 30 sts
Work 6 sc, sc4tog, 10 sc, sc3tog Rnd 6: 1 sc in each st around = 30 sts
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Rnd 7: (4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 36 sts
13

Rnd 9: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 42 sts

Rnd 15: 3 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 1 inc, 16 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc,
Rnd 11: 7 sc, 7 sc hooking through the sts of the 1 inc, 3 sc = 50 sts
ear and the sts of the head, 14 sc, 7 sc hooking Rnds 16-17: 1 sc in each st around = 50 sts
through the sts of the ear and the sts of the head, Rnd 18: 3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, place eye marker, 10 sc,
7 sc = 42 sts ch 12, skip 18, 10 sc, place eye marker, 2 sc, 1 inc,
3 sc = 46 sts
Rnd 12: 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 7 sc along the unworked

sts of the ear, 3 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 7 sc
Work into the sts of the chain in the next rnd.
along the unworked sts of the ear, 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc
= 46 sts
1 inc, 2 sc = 54 sts
14

Rnd 27: 4 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 42 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1
inc, 4 sc = 70 sts
Rnd 28: 5 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 44 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1
inc, 5 sc = 74 sts
Rnd 29: 5 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 1 inc, 40 sc, 1 inc, 10
sc, 1 inc, 5 sc = 78 sts
Rnd 30: 5 sc, 1 inc, 15 sc, 1 inc, 34 sc, 1 inc, 15
sc, 1 inc, 5 sc = 82 sts
Check if your marker is straight. Adjust with shift
st if needed.
Rnd 33: 11 sc hooking through the unworked

front loops from Rnd 8 of the nose together with
the sts of the current rnd (from the round marker
of the nose to the other additional marker), 60
sc, 11 sc into the unworked front loops from Rnd
The sewn-up opening of the nose should face the
8 of the nose = 82 sts
wrong side of your work when joining in the next
This is the new beginning of the rounds.
rnd.
Rnd 32: 71 sc, 11 sc hooking through the
unworked front loops from Rnd 8 of the nose
together with the sts of the current rnd (from the
additional marker of the nose to the round
marker) = 82 sts
15

Rnd 43: 15 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 34 sc, 1 dec, 5
sc, 1 dec, 15 sc = 78 sts
Rnd 46: 11 sc, 1 dec, (6 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 12 sc, (1
dec, 6 sc) х 2, 1 dec, 11 sc = 64 sts
Rnd 47: 9 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc,
1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc = 58 sts
1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 52 sts
Rnd 34: 11 sc into the remaining unworked
Rnd 49: (5 sc, 1 dec) x 3, 10 sc, (1 dec, 5 sc) x 3 =
front loops from Rnd 8 of the nose, 71 sc = 82 sts
46 sts
Rnd 50: (4 sc, 1 dec) x 3, 10 sc, (1 dec, 4 sc) x 3 =
40 sts
Rnd 51: 4 sc, 1 dec, (3 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 8 sc, (1 dec,
3 sc) х 2, 1 dec, 4 sc = 34 sts
Rnd 52: 3 sc, 1 dec, (2 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 8 sc, (1 dec,
2 sc) х 2, 1 dec, 3 sc = 28 sts
16
Insert the mouth into the opening. The wrong

side of the mouth should face the inner side of
the toy. Join the round marker of the mouth and
round marker of the head.
Work the next three rnds counter clockwise (the
wrong side out).
Rnd 53: 28 sc hooking through the sts of the
mouth and the sts of the head = 28 sts
17
Rnds 54-55: 1 sc in each st around = 28 sts Work 32 sc around the opening of the head. Start
Fasten off and hide the end. at the front center.

Body Rnd 22: 6 sc, 1 inc, 32 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc = 48 sts

Join the arms. Make sure the thumbs face
with brown yarn
forward.
The round marker travels along the front center.
Rnd 23: 5 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 6 sc hooking through
Keep it straight with shift sts if needed.
the sts of the left arm and the sts of the body, 18
sc, 6 sc hooking through the sts of the right arm
and the sts of the body, 3 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc = 50 sts
18

You can work the body further with main color
or make stripes as I did. Please note the color
changes occur at the front of the body and may
be visible.
Do not cut off! Change to grey yarn.
Change to brown yarn.
Change to grey yarn.
Rnd 24: 8 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 6 sc along the Change to brown yarn.
unworked sts of the left arm, 18 sc, 6 sc along the Rnds 36-37: 1 sc in each st around = 56 sts
unworked sts of the right arm, 1 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc = Change to grey yarn.
52 sts Rnd 38: 1 sc in each st around = 56 sts
19
Rnd 42: 23 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc, 1 inc, 23 sc = 62 sts Rnd 58: 7 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc, 1 inc, 22 sc, 1 inc, 15
Change to grey yarn. sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 72 sts
Rnd 43: 22 sc, 1 inc, 16 sc, 1 inc, 22 sc = 64 sts Rnd 59: 6 sc, 1 dec, 17 sc, 1 inc, 20 sc, 1 inc, 17
Rnd 44: 26 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 1 inc, 26 sc = 66 sts sc, 1 dec, 6 sc = 72 sts
Rnd 45: 20 sc, 1 inc, 24 sc, 1 inc, 20 sc = 68 sts Rnd 60: 5 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 16 sc,
Change to brown yarn. 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 14 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc = 74 sts
Rnd 46: 25 sc, 1 inc, 16 sc, 1 inc, 25 sc = 70 sts Change to grey yarn.
Rnd 47: 22 sc, 1 inc, 24 sc, 1 inc, 22 sc = 72 sts Rnd 61: 6 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 18 sc,
Change to grey yarn. 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 15 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc = 76 sts
Rnd 48: 1 sc in each st around = 72 sts Rnd 62: 7 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 16 sc,
Rnd 49: 5 sc, 1 dec, 16 sc, 1 inc, 24 sc, 1 inc, 16 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 14 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 78 sts
sc, 1 dec, 5 sc = 72 sts Rnd 63: 5 sc, 1 dec, 16 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 20 sc,
Rnd 50: 7 sc, 1 dec, 20 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc, 1 inc, 20 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 16 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc = 80 sts
sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 72 sts Change to brown yarn.
Change to brown yarn. Rnd 64: 7 sc, 1 dec, 62 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 78 sts
Rnd 51: 6 sc, 1 dec, 19 sc, 1 inc, 16 sc, 1 inc, 19 sc, Rnd 65: 6 sc, 1 dec, 62 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc = 76 sts
1 dec, 6 sc = 72 sts Change to grey yarn.
Change to grey yarn. Rnd 66: 5 sc, 1 dec, 62 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc = 74 sts
Rnd 52: 6 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc, 1 inc, 24 sc, 1 inc, 15 Change to brown yarn.
sc, 1 dec, 6 sc = 72 sts Rnd 67: 7 sc, 1 dec, 56 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 72 sts
Change to brown yarn. Change to grey yarn.
Rnd 53: 6 sc, 1 dec, 19 sc, 1 inc, 16 sc, 1 inc, 19 Rnd 68: 6 sc, 1 dec, 56 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc = 70 sts
sc, 1 dec, 6 sc = 72 sts Rnd 69: 5 sc, 1 dec, 56 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc = 68 sts
Rnd 54: 7 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc, 1 inc, 22 sc, 1 inc, 15 Rnd 70: 7 sc, 1 dec, 50 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 66 sts
sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 72 sts Change to brown yarn.
Change to grey yarn. Join the legs and the tail. Make sure the big toes
Rnd 55: 6 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc, 1 inc, 24 sc, 1 inc, 15 face forward.
sc, 1 dec, 6 sc = 72 sts Rnd 71: 5 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc, 9 sc hooking through
Rnd 56: 7 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc, 1 inc, 22 sc, 1 inc, 15 the sts of the left leg and the sts of the body, 4 sc,
sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 72 sts 4 sc hooking through the sts of the tail and the
Rnd 57: 6 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc, 1 inc, 26 sc, 1 inc, 14 sts of the body, 4 sc, 9 sc hooking through the sts
sc, 1 dec, 6 sc = 72 sts of the right leg and the sts of the body, 11 sc, 1
Change to brown yarn. dec, 5 sc = 64 sts
20
Rnd 72: 7 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 9 sc along the

unworked sts of the left leg, 4 sc, 4 sc along the
unworked sts of the tail, 4 sc, 9 sc along the
unworked sts of the right leg, 8 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc =
62 sts

Change to main grey yarn.
Change to main brown yarn. Fasten off main
grey yarn and hide.
1 dec, 3 sc = 52 sts
Rnd 77: (2 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 12 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec,
12 sc, (1 dec, 2 sc) х 2 = 46 sts
21
Rnd 78: (2 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 11 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, The size of the white of the eye should be
11 sc, (1 dec, 2 sc) х 2 = 40 sts approximately the same as the size of the big
Rnd 79: 1 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 toes.
dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc = 34 sts There is no need to keep the marker straight.
Rnd 80: (1 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 6 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts
6 sc, (1 dec, 1 sc) х 2 = 28 sts Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts
Rnd 81: (1 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 4 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 4 Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts
sc, (1 dec, 1 sc) х 2 = 22 sts Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 24 sts
Rnd 82: (1 sc, 2 dec) x 2, 2 sc, (2 dec, 1 sc) х 2 = Rnd 5: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts
14 sts Rnd 6: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 83: 7 dec = 7 sts Stuff slightly.
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Close up the Rnd 7: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 = 12 sts
opening and hide the end. Rnd 8: 6 dec = 6 sts
Eyes
Eyelid (make 2)
with brown yarn
There is no need to keep the marker straight. Fasten off.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts Secure strong black sewing thread at the back of
Work the remaining rnds into the front loops the white of the eyes. See picture. Poke the
only. needle through the white of the eye, thread the
Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts bead and go back to the back of the white of the
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts eye through the same points.
The white of the eye (make 2)

with white yarn
22
Point А is at the center of the mouth. Points B,

Repeat. Pull up the thread tightly. Secure the C, D are shown in the picture.
thread.
Cut off thread for one eye. Leave the thread for
the second eye – you will use it to needle sculpt
the eyes.
See the proportions of the eyelid and the whites
of the eyes in the next picture.
Finishing
Needle sculpt the mouth.
Secure strong thread at point А.

Insert the needle in point А, exit at point В.
Reinsert a couple of sts away and go back to
23
point А. Pull up to move the mouth towards the Repeat for several times if needed. Secure and
nose. hide.
Insert in point А, exit at point С. Reinsert a
couple of sts away along the nose and go back to Tinting
point А. Pull up to move the mouth towards the
General tips for tinting
nose.
- Tinting may take several days to complete.
Insert in point А, exit at point D. Reinsert a
- Crochet a swatch using your main yarn and
couple of sts away along the nose and go back to
try tinting it first. When you are pleased with
point А. Pull up to move the mouth towards the
the result, start tinting your toy.
nose.
- Tint the toy in the daylight only!
Secure the thread and hide.
- Do not apply a lot of paint at the same time. I
Needle sculpt the eyes.
recommend that you apply the lightest color
one day. Let it dry completely. Then apply a
darker tint. Let it dry completely. And so on
until the tinting is finished.
- If you are not very experienced in tinting, do
not tint different parts of the toy in one day.
I used oil paints. You can see the name of the
colors in the picture.
If you plan to tint the eye sockets, do it first (go

to Tinting section).
Use the thread of the white of the eye.
- poke through the eyelid from the right side to
the wrong side 2 rnds away from the edge;
- Insert at the first eye marker, exit at the other
eye marker;
- poke through the other eyelid from the right
side to the wrong side 2 rnds away from the
edge;
- poke through the second white of the eye at the
area of attaching the half bead;
- repeat the same actions in the opposite
direction. Pull up tightly.
24
Put a small drop of oil paint (the size of a pea)

onto a thick piece of paper. Leave it for 24 hours.
Take a stiff brush. Apply some paint to the brush.
Rub against the paper until the brush is almost
dry. Tint the toy. Make sure there are no distinct
color transitions. Use clean brush or sponge. You
Front
can carefully brush the part of the toy you ply
Cast on 50 sts and work 72 rows of st st. Cast off.
color to with stiff toothbrush to spread the paint
Break yarn.
evenly. Leave it for 1-3 days to dry.
Please note that the colors will get lighter when
they get dry.
I tinted the eye sockets, area around the nose,
ears and made some spots onto the body.
Sweater
Reverse st st: P on the right side, K on the
wrong side
St st: K on the right side, P on the wrong side
Rib 1х1: K1, P1 on the right side
Back
25
Cast on 26 sts and work 72 rows of st st. Cast off. Collar

Break yarn. Pick up 52 sts around the neck (38 sts along the
front, 14 sts along the back) on circular needles
and work 50 rows of rib 1x1. Cast off. Break yarn.
Sew the shoulder seams (6 sts each).
26
Sleeve (make 2) Your Ludwig the Dog is ready!

Pick up 24 sts along the armhole (12 sts along the
front and 12 sts along the back). Work 4 rows of
st st and 2 rows of reverse st st. Cast off (you
might need to cast off quite loosely to be able to
put on the sweater). Break yarn.
Sew the sleeve seams from the edge of the sleeve
to the bottom of the sweater. Weave in all loose
ends.
27
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28
Collect All Pertseva’s patterns
007 Dragon 010 Cat Siam 013 Frog 020 Kittens

Draco Kvolya
022 Puppy 027 Moose 028 Cat Heart 032 Lady

Figurine
040 Horse 041 Doll 043 Horse 064 Doll Marie

Glasha Princess White Dream
084 Baby 086 Monkey 089 Funny Cat 090 Funny Rat
Monkey Orang-utan Serafima
Gunya
29
091 Funny 092 Funny 093 Cat 094 Orange Cat

Raccoon Meerkat Mystery Arestarh
095 Cat Sphynx 097 Mouse 098 Hedgehog 099 Puppy

Findus Sofia Kuka Boka
109 Slow Loris 111 White 119 Panda 120 Brown Cat
Rabbit Ostap
121 Rabbit Dude 122 Huggable 129 Dobby the 132 Baby
Bear Shunya sad cat Rooster Kubrik
139 Cute Bear 140 Hats for 147 Angel Zu 148 Angel Shu
Cookie bears Doll Doll
30
155 Lucy the Frog 156 Mulya the 157 Sweet Bear 164 Jiggers the
Sheep Mimishoon dog
31
Contacts: I’d love to see the results of your hard work! Please share photos of your finished
creation directly on our Facebook page, add project to the pattern on Ravelry and Craftsy, email me,
and/or find me on other sites. Just search “LittleOwlsHut”.
Tell me about your crocheting adventures, I would love to hear it.
Find me on:
Facebook Ravelry Pattern shop Ravelry Group Instagram
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Download the free “QR-code APP” for your iPhone/smart-phone and scan this code to take you straight to our website.
Copyright notes: ©2018 LittleOwlsHut. Finished products created with this pattern
may be used for commercial sale, provided you comply with the following:
• The items must be 100% handmade by you - the purchaser of the pattern (no production-line
allowed). Every person who uses my patterns to make items for sale must have their own copy
of the pattern.
• Any items for sale must state in the item description that they are based on ‘LittleOwlsHut’
pattern, include the name of the designer and also include a link to my website
(www.LittleOwlsHut.com)
• Any items you sell based on my patterns must feature only your own photographs of the item
you have made to sell. You do not have permission to use my photographs to help sell your
work.
Text and images Copyright ©2018 by LittleOwlsHut, all rights reserved.

No pattern may be reproduced or distributed — mechanically, electronically, or by any other means,
including photocopying, without written permission. I work very hard to design and write these
patterns. Thank you so much for your understanding, and happy crocheting!
Warning: Because your finished project may have small parts, please be extremely cautious if
you decide to give it to a child. Also, if you decide to sell your finished project, remember to include
warning for people purchasing it.
32

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LittleOwlsHut

Skill level: Experienced

www.LittleOwlsHut.com Any questions or comments: info@LittleOwlsHut.com

Tip (make it right) Tip (make it right) Abbreviations

If there is a record in the brackets

USA/UK terminology comparison chart. Skill levels

Tip (shift stitch) Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring

Gauge (if you want the toy to be

Legs the other side of the foundation chain: 7 sc, 3 sc

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts

Assemble the foot by joining the toes.

Rnd 3: 7 sc, 3 sc hooking through the sts of the

Rnd 4: 7 sc, 3 sc along the unworked sts of the

Rnds 5-6: 1 sc in each st around = 22 sts

Rnd 25: 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc =

Work 4 sc and move the round marker. This is

Rnd 12: 1 dec, 15 sc = 16 sts

21 sts 29. Start at the back center and work 18 sc along

Rnd 31: 6 dec = 6 sts

Rnd 3: (1 dec, 4 sc) x 3 = 15 sts

Rnd 17: 11 sc, 3 sc along the unworked sts of the

Rnd 9: 5 sc, 2 inc, (3 sc in one st) x 3, 2 inc, 6 sc

Rnds 2-3: 1 sc in each st around = 6 sts

Fasten off. There is no need to leave a tail.

Rnd 4: 6 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) х 2, 1 inc, 12 sc, (1 inc, 1

Close up the opening by sewing or working sl st.

Rnd 3: 6 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) х 2, 1 inc, 12 sc, (1 inc, 1

Rnd 4: 9 sc, 2 inc, 18 sc, 2 inc, 9 sc = 44 sts

Rnd 8: 1 sc in each st around = 36 sts

Rnds 13-14: 1 sc in each st around = 46 sts

Rnd 12: 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 7 sc along the unworked

Rnd 25: 4 sc, 1 inc, 50 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc = 62 sts

Rnd 33: 11 sc hooking through the unworked

Rnds 35-42: 1 sc in each st around = 82 sts

Insert the mouth into the opening. The wrong

Rnd 14: 1 sc in each st around = 32 sts

Body Rnd 22: 6 sc, 1 inc, 32 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc = 48 sts

Rnd 25: 20 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 1 inc, 20 sc = 54 sts

Rnd 72: 7 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 9 sc along the

Rnd 73: 5 sc, 1 dec, 48 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc = 60 sts

The white of the eye (make 2)

Point А is at the center of the mouth. Points B,

Secure strong thread at point А.

If you plan to tint the eye sockets, do it first (go

Put a small drop of oil paint (the size of a pea)

Cast on 26 sts and work 72 rows of st st. Cast off. Collar

Sew the shoulder seams (6 sts each).

Sleeve (make 2) Your Ludwig the Dog is ready!

FREE Crochet Patterns at www.LittleOwlsHut.com

Dog Buffy Sheep Dolly Dog Lucky Heart and arrow

Kettle Monkey Fox Angel

Download the free “QR-

Collect All Pertseva’s patterns

007 Dragon 010 Cat Siam 013 Frog 020 Kittens

022 Puppy 027 Moose 028 Cat Heart 032 Lady

040 Horse 041 Doll 043 Horse 064 Doll Marie

091 Funny 092 Funny 093 Cat 094 Orange Cat

095 Cat Sphynx 097 Mouse 098 Hedgehog 099 Puppy

Tell me about your crocheting adventures, I would love to hear it.

https://goo.gl/ydrkC5 http://goo.gl/lwFLSB http://goo.gl/lwFLSB https://goo.gl/GgYC9n

Text and images Copyright ©2018 by LittleOwlsHut, all rights reserved.

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