Knitting Pattern: Rabbit Dude Keks

LittleOwlsHut
www.LittleOwlsHut.com
Knitting
Pattern
By Svetlana Pertseva
Skill level: Experienced

Rabbit Dude Keks
Abbreviations Materials and tools
K – knit
P - purl Yarn:
KFB – knit the front and back of ü main color yarn – any yarn. I used approximately 5 skeins of “Baby
a stitch (a way to make an Softy” by Alize (100% polyester, 50g/115m).
increase)
ü contrasting color yarn – any yarn that knits to the same gauge as
KFBF – knit the front, the back
and again the front of a stitch (a main color yarn. I used approximately 2 skeins of “Baby Softy” by
way to make a double increase) Alize (100% polyester, 50g/115m).
K2tog – knit two sts together (a ü red or bright pink color yarn – any yarn that knits to the same
way to make a decrease) gauge as main color yarn. I used approximately 10 m of bright pink
K3tog – knit three sts together
“Baby Softy” by Alize (100% polyester, 50g/115m).
st st – stocking stitch (K on the
one side and P on the other side) You can find yarn in this shop
Rnd – round https://www.etsy.com/shop/LittleOwlsHutRUSSIAN
(N sts) – number of sts in a
row/round Tip: You can use any fluffy yarn (chenille, velour, wool, etc). The
( ) x N – repeat instructions in thicker the yarn, the bigger your toy will be. Make sure the yarn you
brackets N times use is soft. If you use the yarn that is too stiff, you will not be able to
st – stitch shape the muzzle nicely.
edge st - edge stitch
yo – yarn over ü 10 double pointed needles – I used 2.5 mm.
tbl - through back of loop ü Two ready-made eyes (I used 18-20 mm in diameter). You can use
beads or half beads instead.
Finished size ü Sewing needle and tapestry needle for needle sculpting.
Approx. 55 cm (21.6 inches) tall ü Strong thread for needle sculpting.
without ears/ 85 cm (33.5 inches) ü A piece of thick cloth to make the neck firmer (optional).
with ears included using the ü Stuffing.
Happy
knitting!
www.LittleOwlsHut.com Any questions or comments: info@LittleOwlsHut.com

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet pattern 2017
Tip (yarn) Skill levels

If you use different yarn, project
Projects for first-time knitters using basic stitches.
will be bigger or smaller and you Minimal shaping.
will need more or less yarn than
Projects using yarn with basic stitches, repetitive
stated in the pattern (i.e. thicker stitch patterns,
simple color changes, and simple shaping and
yarn will produce a larger project
and you may require more yarn). Projects using a variety of techniques, color patterns,
mid-level shaping and finishing.
Needles conversion chart Projects with intricate stitch patterns, techniques

and dimension,
mm US UK such as non-repeating patterns, multi-color
techniques, fine threads, small
2.5 1 13 needles, detailed shaping and refined finishing.
Tip (gauge)
Yarn suggestions When making toys, you should use much smaller knitting needles than
recommended for the yarn you choose.
Yarn Name Make sure you knit tight enough; otherwise, the stuffing will show
weight through the holes.
Baby Softy TIP

Sport / 5 by Alize
Work st st unless otherwise stated.
ply (12 wpi) (115 meters/
Do not remove all markers until the toy is finished or unless stated in
50 grams) the pattern!
Tip (round marker)
You will need a round marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts. Move the marker up
to the first stitch of the next round after finishing the previous one. A new round starts from the knitting
needle following the one you ended the round with.
If you don't have a round marker you can always use a scrap of contrasting yarn instead. You can see it in my
photos.
Note
Please note that originally it is a crocheted toy. That is why many pictures of this pattern are taken from the
crocheted version of the pattern as they are more informative (e.g. the process of assembling the toes and
fingers) or the same for both versions of the pattern (e.g. assembling, needle sculpting).
2
Mouth
with bright pink or red color yarn
Work flat (back and forth).
Cast on 15 sts.
Row 1: K3, leave the remaining 12 sts unworked

and turn. Purl the same three sts and turn again. Eye (make 2)
Knit the same 3 sts and continue without turning: The white of the eye
K4, K3 in one st, K4, K3 and turn. Purl these last with white color yarn
three sts, turn again and knit these three sts = 17 sts Cast on 6 sts.
Rows 2-6: st st starting with a purl row = 17 sts Cast on 6 sts and divide them between three double
Do not cast off. Move all sts onto a stitch holder. pointed needles to work in the round.
Break yarn, leaving a tail (I left 10 cm). Note! When you work st st in the round, you knit
every round (there is no need to purl). You don't
need to turn your work, you're always knitting on the
right side.
Rnd 1: K6 = 6 sts
Rnd 2: 6KFB = 12 sts
Rnd 3: K12 = 12 sts
Rnd 4: KFB, K11 = 13 sts
Rnd 5-12: K13 = 13 sts
Rnd 13: K2tog, K11 = 12 sts
Tooth (make 2)
Rnds 14-15: K12 = 12 sts
with white color yarn
Rnd 16: (K2tog) x 6 = 6 sts
Cast on 6 sts and divide them between three double
Stuff but not too firmly. Break yarn, leaving a tail.
pointed needles to work in the round.
Thread it through the sts on the needles and draw up
Rnds 1-9: K6 = 6 sts
tightly.
Cast off, leaving a tail for sewing. Stuff but not too
firmly.
3
The top part of the eyelids

with main color yarn
Work in the round.
Cast on 32 sts and divide them between three
Work the second eyelid the same way.
double-pointed needles.
Rnds 1-5: P32 = 32 sts
Divide the piece in two halves in your mind (16 sts
for each eyelid) and work each eyelid separately. To
do that you need to divide the sts for the first eyelid
between three double pointed needles and move the
sts for the second eyelid on stitch holders.
Assemble the eyes.

Insert the whites of the eyes into the eyelids. Secure
with a couple of stitches at the sides using sewing
thread of matching color.
Each eyelid is worked as follows:

Rnds 1-7: K16 = 16 sts
Rnd 8: (K2, K2tog) 4 = 12 sts
Rnd 9: K12 = 12 sts
Rnd 10: (K1, K2tog) 4 = 8 sts
Rnd 11: K8 = 8 sts Attach the ready-made eyes. Glue them if needed.
Break yarn, leaving a tail. Thread it through the sts
on the needles and draw up tightly.
4
Rnd 6: (2KFB, K8) 2 = 24 sts

Rnds 7-10: K24 = 24 sts
Rnd 11: ((K2tog) x 2, K8) 2 = 20 sts
Rnd 12: ((K2tog) x 2, K6) 2 = 16 sts
Rnd 13: K16 = 16 sts
Rnd 14: (K2tog) x 2, K2, (K2tog) x 3, K2, K2tog =
10 sts
Nose
with bright pink or red color yarn
Cast on 7 sts and divide them between three double-
pointed needles.
Rnd 1: K7 = 7 sts
Close up the remaining opening if needed (at the

beginning of the piece). Stuff the piece but do not
overstuff.
Break yarn, leaving a tail. Thread it through the sts
on the needles and draw up tightly.
Rnd 2: KFB, K2, KFBF, K3 = 10 sts

Rnd 3: 2KFB, K2, 3KFB, K2, KFB= 16 sts
Rnd 4: K16 = 16 sts
Rnd 5: (2KFB, K6) 2 = 20 sts
5

Rnd 3: K12 = 12 sts
Rnd 4: (K1, KFB) 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 5: (K2, KFB) 6 = 24 sts
Rnd 6: K24 = 24 sts
Rnd 7: (K3, KFB) 6 = 30 sts
Rnd 8: (K4, KFB) 6 = 36 sts
Head
The marker goes from the top of the head and runs
down the center front of the face to the chin. Do not
remove the marker until the toy is finished.
Mark the points for needle sculpting as you knit the
head. All markers are given in the round
descriptions. You don’t have to follow these points
strictly when needle sculpting the head. Feel free to
adjust their position if needed.
Tip: I recommend that you use different colors for

different types of markers (don’t forget the meaning
of each color). For example, markers 1 – red,
markers 2 – blue, etc. All additional markers are
marked with underlined text. Rnds 9-18: K36 = 36 sts
Rnd 19: (K11, KFB) 3 = 39 sts
with main color yarn Rnds 20-21: K39 = 39 sts
Cast on 6 sts and divide them between three double- Rnd 22: (K12, KFB) 3 = 42 sts
pointed needles. Rnd 23: (K2, KFB) 14 = 56 sts
Note: When there are too many sts for three knitting Rnd 24: K56 = 56 sts
needles, divide them between four double-pointed Rnd 25: (K3, KFB) 14 = 70 sts
needles. I did it approximately after Rnd 24. Rnd 26: KFB, (K5, KFB) 3, K32, (KFB, K5) 3,
Rnd 1: K6 = 6 sts KFB = 78 sts
6
Rnd 27: K9, marker #3, K60, marker #3, K9 = 78 Rnds 47-55: K116 = 116 sts
sts
Rnd 28: (K6, KFB) 3, K36, (KFB, K6) 3 = 84
sts
Rnd 56: K25, K2tog, K3, marker #1, K2tog, K6,

K2tog, K36, K2tog, K6, K2tog, marker #1, K3, K2tog,
K25 = 110 sts
Rnd 29: (KFB, K9) 2, KFB, K42, KFB, (K9, KFB) Rnd 57: K24, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K2,
2 = 90 sts K2tog, K28, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K2, K2tog,
Rnd 30: K90 = 90 sts K24 = 102 sts
Rnd 31: K1, KFB, K18, KFB, K48, KFB, K18, KFB, Rnd 58: K102 = 102 sts
K1 = 94 sts Rnd 59: K23, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K4, K2tog, K2,
Rnd 32: K1, KFB, K19, KFB, K50, KFB, K19, KFB, K2tog, K24, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K4, K2tog, K2, K2tog,
K1 = 98 sts K23 = 94 sts
Rnd 33: K24, marker #2, K50, marker #2, K24 = Rnd 60: K22, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K2,
98 sts K2tog, K20, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K2, K2tog,
Rnd 34: K1, KFB, K94, KFB, K1 = 100 sts K22 = 86 sts
Rnd 35: marker #5, K1, KFB, K96, KFB, K1 = 102 Rnd 61: K86 = 86 sts
sts Rnd 62: K20, marker #4, (K2tog, K2) 3, K2tog,
Rnd 36: K51, neck marker #2, K51 = 102 sts K18, K2tog, (K2, K2tog) 3, marker #4, K20 = 78
Rnd 37: K1, KFB, K98, KFB, K1 = 104 sts sts
Rnd 38: K1, KFB, K100, KFB, K1 = 106 sts Rnd 63: K1, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K12, K2tog, K2,
Rnd 39: K106 = 106 sts K2tog, K28, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K12, K2tog, K2,
Rnd 40: K1, KFB, K102, KFB, K1 = 108 sts K2tog, K1 = 70 sts
Rnd 41: K1, KFB, K104, KFB, K1 = 110 sts Rnd 64: K70 = 70 sts
Rnd 42: K110 = 110 sts Rnd 65: K1, K2tog, K3, (K2tog) x 2, K7, K2tog, K32,
Rnd 43: K1, KFB, K106, KFB, K1 = 112 sts K2tog, K7, (K2tog) x 2, K3, K2tog, K1 = 62 sts
Rnd 44: K1, KFB, K108, KFB, K1 = 114 sts Rnd 66: K1, K2tog, K2, (K2tog) x 2, K6, K2tog,
Rnd 45: K57, neck marker #1, K57 = 114 sts K28, K2tog, K6, (K2tog) x 2, K2, K2tog, K1 = 54 sts
Rnd 46: K1, KFB, K110, KFB, K1 = 116 sts Rnd 67: K54 = 54 sts
7
Rnd 68: K1, K2tog, K1, (K2tog) x 2, K7, K2tog, K20, Stuff the head firmly but do not overstuff. Keep in
K2tog, K7, (K2tog) x 2, K1, K2tog, K1 = 46 sts mind that you will have to needle sculpt it later. I
suggest that you look at the sculpting section (pages
10-11) before stuffing the head so that you can see
the amount of sculpting required and don’t
overstuff.
The head should be soft enough to press but keep its
shape well. The head should not be round but more
like a plump pancake with a bump on the top. Keep
the folds resulting from knitting. Do not straighten
them with stuffing.
Rnd 69: (K2tog) x 2, K7, K2tog, K5, (KFB, K2) 3, Hold the tongue piece inside the head with wrong
KFB, K5, K2tog, K7, (K2tog) x 2 = 44 sts sides facing each other.
Rnd 70: marker #6, K44 = 44 sts Rnd 72: (K2tog) x 2, K4, (K2tog) x 2, (move 1 st of
Rnd 71: (K2tog) x 2, K5, K2tog, K6, (KFB, K2) 3, the tongue onto a spare needle, move 1 st of the head
KFB, K6, K2tog, K5, (K2tog) x 2 = 42 sts onto a spare needle) x 17, (K2tog) x 2, K4, (K2tog) x
2, K1 = 34 sts
It is important to move the sts in the order stated
above. Otherwise the bright pink (or red) color will
be seen on the outer part of the lip.
Rnd 73: (K2tog) x 2, K4, cast off 34 sts on your
spare needle by working 2 sts at a time (insert your
needle into one st of the tongue and then into one st
of the head and work them as one st). You must end
up with 17 cast-off sts and one st on the needle.
Continue working: K4, (K2tog) x 2, K1 = 30 sts (14
working sts including the st we had after casting off)
8
To move the beginning of the round, work a short Row 75: K1, (K2tog) x 4 = 5 sts
round: Cast off.
K6 of the 1st needle
Do not sew the mouth. You will do it after needle
Move all sts onto one needle. sculpting. Stuff the head but not too tightly.
Now knit in the opposite direction (not in the

round).
Row 74: (P2tog) x 2, P2, P2tog, P2, (P2tog) x 2 = 9
sts
9
Needle sculpting
Pull up the yarn while needle sculpting.
Step 2:
Insert needle at point 3, exit at point 4, re-insert 1
stitch away and exit at point 3, re-insert at 1 stitch
Needle sculpt the muzzle. away and exit at point 4. Tighten and secure. Do not
Step 1: Secure thread at point 1, insert at point 1, fasten off.
exit at point 2. Re-insert 1 stitch away to exit at point Step 3:
1, re-insert 1 stitch away, and exit at point 2. Tighten With thread going under the muzzle, take needle to
firmly, so that points 1 and 2 come together. Secure, point 41 and insert. Exit again 1 stitch away, tighten
but do not fasten off thread. and secure. Do not fasten off.
10
Step 4:
Insert needle at point 41, exit at point 31, re-insert 1
stitch away, exit at point 41, re-insert 1 stitch away
and exit at point 31.
Step 5:
Insert needle at point 21, taking thread over the top
of the cheek, exit at point 11, re-insert at point 11 1
stitch away, exit at point 21, re-insert at point 21 1
stitch away and exit at point 11. Tighten firmly, as for
step 1, secure, fasten off.
Step 6:
Sculpt the muzzle to divide it into two.
Thread long needle with strong thread as before.
Secure thread at 5. Bring needle and thread down
over the outside of the muzzle and insert at 6, then
exit again at 5. Tighten firmly, then repeat. Tighten
and secure. Fasten off.
11
Assembling the right hand

Arms
Finger (make 8 – 4 for each hand)
Continue working to join the fingers to form the
hand. The marker runs up the palm of the hand.
Rnd 1: K2 along the finger #2, K9 along the finger
pointed needles.
#1, K6 along the finger #2, K9 along the finger #3,
Rnd 1: K6 = 6 sts
K1 along the finger #2 = 27 sts
Rnd 3: K12 = 12 sts
Rnd 4: (K1, KFB) 6 = 18 sts
Rnds 5-9: K18 = 18 sts
Rnd 10: (K2tog, K4) 3 = 15 sts
Stuff. Do not stuff further.
Rnd 11: (K2tog, K3) 3 = 12 sts
Rnds 12-13: K12 = 12 sts
Rnd 15: K11 = 11 sts
Rnd 18: K9 = 9 sts
Break yarn for three fingers. Do not cast off but
move the sts onto a stitch holder.
Do not break yarn for the 4th finger. Continue
assembling the hand.
12
Rnds 2-3: K27 = 27 sts

Rnd 4: 4KFB, K20, 3KFB = 34 sts
Rnds 5-10: K34 = 34 sts
Rnd 11: (K2tog) x 4, K20, (K2tog) x 3 =27 sts
Rnd 12: K27 = 27 sts
Rnd 13: K4 along the hand, K4 through the sts of
the hand and the thumb to join at the same time
casting off these 4 sts, K19 along the hand = 27 sts
13
Rnd 15: K26 = 26 sts

Rnd 16: K4, K2tog, K14, K2tog, K4 = 24 sts
Rnd 17: (K2, K2tog) 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 18: K18 = 18 sts
Stuff the hand firmly but do not overstuff. Stuff the

areas of joining the fingers very slightly or do not
stuff at all. Continue stuffing firmly as you go. The
arm should bounce back when you bend it.
Rnd 21: K16 = 16 sts
Rnds 23-25: K15 = 15 sts
Rnd 14: K1, K2tog, K1, K5 along the unworked sts Rnds 27-29: K14 = 14 sts
of the thumb, K16, K2tog, K1 = 26 sts Rnd 30: K2tog, K12 = 13 sts
Rnds 31-33: K13 = 13 sts
Rnds 35-67: K12 = 12 sts
Continue working the piece alternating main and
contrasting color yarns.
Rnds 68-118: K12 = 12 sts
You can alternate the colors as you want or use my
order (M stands for main color, C stands for
contrasting color).
14
CC-MM-CC-M-CC-MMMMM-CCC-MM-CCCC-MM- Rnds 27-29: K14 = 14 sts

C-MM-CC-MMMM-CCC-MMMM-CC-MM-CC-MM- Rnd 30: K12, K2tog = 13 sts
CC Rnds 31-33: K13 = 13 sts
Break yarn. Do not cast off but move the sts on a Rnd 34: K11, K2tog = 12 sts
stitch holder. Rnds 35-67: K12 = 12 sts
Assembling the left hand Continue working the piece alternating main and
with main color yarn contrasting color yarns.
The round marker should go along the inner part of Rnds 68-118: K12 = 12 sts
the palm. The round should start from a new needle. You can alternate the colors as you want or use my
Repeat the assembling of the right hand taking into order (M stands for main color, C stands for
consideration the position of the thumb. contrasting color).
Rnd 1: K2 along the finger #2, K9 along the finger CC-M-CCC-MM-CC-MMMMM-CCC-MMM-CCC-M-
#1, K6 along the finger #2, K9 along the finger #3, CC-MM-CCC-MMMM-CC-MMMM-CC-MM-CC-
K1 along the finger #2 = 27 sts MM-C
Rnds 2-3: K27 = 27 sts Break yarn. Do not cast off but move the sts on a
Rnd 4: 3KFB, K20, 4KFB = 34 sts stitch holder.
Rnds 5-10: K34 = 34 sts
Rnd 11: (K2tog) x 3, K20, (K2tog) x 4 =27 sts
Rnd 12: K27 = 27 sts
Rnd 13: K19 along the hand, K4 through the sts of
the hand and the thumb to join at the same time
casting off these 4 sts, K4 = 27 sts
Rnd 14: K1, K2tog, K16, K5 along the unworked sts
Feet
of the thumb, K1, K2tog, K1 = 26 sts
Rnd 15: K26 = 26 sts Middle toe #2 (make 2)
Rnd 16: K4, K2tog, K14, K2tog, K4 = 24 sts with main color yarn
Rnd 17: (K2tog, K2) 6 = 18 sts Cast on 6 sts and divide them between three double-
Rnd 18: K18 = 18 sts pointed needles.
Stuff the hand firmly but do not overstuff. Stuff the Rnd 1: K6 = 6 sts
areas of joining the fingers very slightly or do not Rnd 2: 6KFB = 12 sts
stuff at all. Continue stuffing firmly as you go. The Rnd 3: K12 = 12 sts
arm should bounce back when you bend it. Rnd 4: (K1, KFB) 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 19: K16, K2tog = 17 sts Rnd 5: (K2, KFB) 6 = 24 sts
Rnd 20: K15, K2tog = 16 sts Rnd 6: K24 = 24 sts
Rnd 21: K16 = 16 sts Rnd 7: (K7, KFB) 3 = 27 sts
Rnd 22: K14, K2tog = 15 sts Rnds 8-12: K27 = 27 sts
Rnds 23-25: K15 = 15 sts Rnd 13: (K7, K2tog) 3 = 24 sts
Rnd 26: K13, K2tog = 14 sts Rnd 14: (K2, K2tog) 6 = 18 sts
15
Rnd 15: K18 = 18 sts Assemble the foot starting from this toe.
Rnd 16: (K4, K2tog) 3 = 15 sts
Rnd 17: K15 = 15 sts
Break yarn. Do not cast off but move the sts on a
stitch holder. Stuff.
Big toe #3 (make 2)
pointed needles.
Rnd 1: K6 = 6 sts
Rnd 3: K12 = 12 sts
Assembling the right foot
Rnd 4: (K1, KFB) 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 5: (K2, KFB) 6 = 24 sts
Rnd 6: K24 = 24 sts
Rnd 7: (K3, KFB) 6 = 30 sts
Rnds 8-13: K30 = 30 sts
Rnd 14: (K3, K2tog) 6 = 24 sts
Rnd 15: (K2, K2tog) 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 16: K18 = 18 sts The marker goes along the outer side of the
Rnd 17: (K4, K2tog) 3 = 15 sts foot (from the side of the little toe). Make
Rnd 18: K15 = 15 sts sure you start assembling the foot with the
Break yarn. Do not cast off but move the sts on a little toe!
stitch holder. Stuff. Do not move all toes onto the needle from the stitch
Little toe #1 (make 2) holders. Move the sts of the next toe when you finish
with main color yarn working with the previous one. Stuff firmly as you go
Cast on 6 sts and divide them between three double- but do not overstuff.
pointed needles. with main color yarn
Rnd 1: K6 = 6 sts Rnd 1: K7 along toe #1, K6 along toe #2, K15 along
Rnd 2: 6KFB = 12 sts toe #3, K9 along toe #2, K8 along toe #1 = 45 sts
Rnd 3: K12 = 12 sts
Rnd 4: (K1, KFB) 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 5: (K2, KFB) 6 = 24 sts
Rnds 6-12: K24 = 24 sts
Rnd 13: (K2, K2tog) 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 14: (K4, K2tog) 3 = 15 sts
Rnd 15: K15 = 15 sts
Do not cast off or break yarn. Stuff.
16
Rnd 34: K1, K2tog, K11, KFB, K10, K2tog, K1 = 27

sts
Rnd 35: K2tog, K23, K2tog = 25 sts
Rnd 36: K25 = 25 sts
Rnd 39: K21 = 21 sts
Rnd 42: K18 = 18 sts
Rnd 43: (K1, K2tog) 6 = 12 sts
Break yarn, leaving a tail. Thread it through sts on
the needle and draw up tightly. Secure and weave in
Rnd 2: K3, (KFB, K2) 6, KFB, K23 = 52 sts
loose ends.
Rnds 3-7: K52 = 52 sts
Rnd 8: K2tog, K22, K2tog, (K4, K2tog) 4, K2 =
46 sts
Rnds 9-10: K46 = 46 sts
Rnd 11: K2tog, K14, K2tog, (K4, K2tog) 3, K10 =
41 sts
Rnd 12: K41 = 41 sts
Rnd 13: K16, (K2tog, K3) 2, K2tog, K13 = 38 sts
Rnd 14: K11, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K13 = 35
sts
Rnd 15: K35 = 35 sts
Rnd 16: K16, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K10 = 33 sts Assembling the left foot
Rnd 17: K15, K2tog, K16 = 32 sts
Rnd 18: K32 = 32 sts
Rnd 19: K15, K2tog, K15 = 31 sts
Rnd 20: K14, K2tog, K15 = 30 sts
Rnd 21: K30 = 30 sts
Rnd 22: K14, K2tog, K14 = 29 sts
Rnds 23-30: K29 = 29 sts
The marker goes along the outer side of the
Rnd 31: K13, KFB, K13, K2tog = 29 sts
foot (from the side of the little toe). Make
Rnd 32: K1, K2tog, K11, KFB, K11, K2tog, K1 = 28
sure you start assembling the foot with the
sts
little toe!
Rnd 33: K28 = 28 sts
17
Rnd 1: K8 along toe #1, K9 along toe #2, K15 along

toe #3, K6 along toe #2, K7 along toe #1 = 45 sts
Rnd 2: K23, KFB, (K2, KFB) 6, K3 = 52 sts
Rnds 3-7: K52 = 52 sts
Rnd 8: K2, (K2tog, K4) 4, K2tog, K22, K2tog =
46 sts
Rnds 9-10: K46 = 46 sts
Rnd 11: K10, (K2tog, K4) 3, K2tog, K14, K2tog =
41 sts
Rnd 12: K41 = 41 sts Rnd 37: K1, K2tog, K19, K2tog, K1 = 23 sts
Rnd 13: K13, K2tog, (K3, K2tog) 2, K16 = 38 sts Rnd 38: K2tog, K19, K2tog = 21 sts
Rnd 14: K13, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K11 = 35 Rnd 39: K21 = 21 sts
sts Rnd 40: K2tog, K17, K2tog = 19 sts
Rnd 15: K35 = 35 sts Rnd 41: K17, K2tog = 18 sts
Rnd 16: K10, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K16 = 33 sts Rnd 42: K18 = 18 sts
Rnd 17: K16, K2tog, K15 = 32 sts Rnd 43: (K2tog, K1) 6 = 12 sts
Rnd 18: K32 = 32 sts Rnd 44: (K2tog) x 6 = 6 sts
Break yarn, leaving a tail. Thread it through sts on
the needle and draw up tightly. Secure and weave in
loose ends.
Rnd 19: K15, K2tog, K15 = 31 sts

Rnd 20: K15, K2tog, K14 = 30 sts
Rnd 21: K30 = 30 sts
Rnd 22: K14, K2tog, K14 = 29 sts
Rnds 23-30: K29 = 29 sts
Legs
Rnd 31: K2tog, K13, KFB, K13 = 29 sts Stuff the legs firmly but do not overstuff. The legs
Rnd 32: K1, K2tog, K11, KFB, K11, K2tog, K1 = 28 should bounce back when you bend them.
sts Left leg
Rnd 33: K28 = 28 st with main color yarn
Rnd 34: K1, K2tog, K10, KFB, K11, K2tog, K1 = 27 Cast on 28 sts and divide them between three
sts double-pointed needles.
Rnd 35: K2tog, K23, K2tog = 25 sts Rnds 1-4: K28 = 28 sts
Rnd 36: K25 = 25 sts Change to contrasting color yarn.
18
Rnds 5-6: K28 = 28 sts Change to main color yarn.

Rnd 7: K2tog, K26 = 27 sts Rnd 38: K2tog, K16 = 17 sts
Rnds 8-9: K27 = 27 sts Rnd 39: K17 = 17 sts
Change to main color yarn. Change to contrasting color yarn.
Rnd 10: K27 = 27 sts Rnd 40: K17 = 17 sts
Rnd 11: K2tog, K25 = 26 sts Rnd 41: K2tog, K15 = 16 sts
Rnd 12: K26 = 26 sts Rnd 42-43: K16 = 16 sts
Change to contrasting color yarn. Change to main color yarn.
Rnd 13: K26 = 26 sts Rnd 44: K2tog, K14 = 15 sts
Rnd 14: K2tog, K24 = 25 sts Rnd 45: K15 = 15 sts
Change to main color yarn. Rnd 46: K15 = 15 sts
Rnd 16: K25 = 25 sts Change to main color yarn.
Change to contrasting color yarn. Rnd 47: K2tog, K13 = 14 sts
Rnds 18-19: K24 = 24 sts Change to contrasting color yarn.
Change to main color yarn. Rnds 51-52: K13 = 13 sts
Change to contrasting color yarn. Rnd 53: K2tog, K11 = 12 st
Rnd 23: K2tog, K21 = 22 sts Rnds 54-55: K12 = 12 sts
Change to contrasting color yarn. Rnds 62-63: K12 = 12 sts
Rnd 26: K2tog, K20 = 21 sts Change to contrasting color yarn.
Rnds 27-28: K21 = 21 sts Rnds 64-69: K12 = 12 sts
Rnd 29: K2tog, K19 = 20 sts Change to main color yarn.
Rnd 30: K20 = 20 sts Rnd 70: K12 = 12 sts
Rnd 31: K20 = 20 sts Rnds 71-75: K12 = 12 sts
Rnd 33: K19 = 19 sts Rnd 76: K12 = 12 sts
Change to contrasting color yarn. Change to contrasting color yarn.
19
Change to contrasting color yarn.

Rnds 80-85: K12 = 12 sts
Change to main color yarn.
Rnds 86-88: K12 = 12 sts
Rnds 89-93: K12 = 12 sts
Rnds 94-96: K12 = 12 sts
Rnd 97: K12 = 12 sts
Rnds 98-99: K12 = 12 sts
Rnd 101: (K5, KFB) 2 = 14 sts Rnd 8-10: K27 = 27 sts
Rnd 103: (K6, KFB) 2 = 16 sts Rnd 11: K2tog, K25 = 26 sts
Rnd 104: (K7, KFB) 2 = 18 sts Rnd 12: K26 = 26 sts
Do not cast off. Move the sts onto a stitch holder. Rnd 13: K26 = 26 sts
Break yarn. Rnd 14: K2tog, K24 = 25 sts
Right leg Rnds 15-16: K25 = 25 sts
with main color yarn Change to main color yarn.
Cast on 28 sts and divide them between three Rnd 17: K2tog, K23 = 24 sts
double-pointed needles. Rnd 18-19: K24 = 24 sts
Change to contrasting color yarn. Rnd 20: K2tog, K22 = 23 sts
Rnd 22: K23 = 23 sts
Rnds 24-25: K22 = 22 sts
Rnds 27-28: K21 = 21 sts
20

Rnd 35: K2tog, K17 = 18 sts Change to contrasting color yarn.
Change to main color yarn. Change to main color yarn.
Rnd 39-40: K17 = 17 sts Change to contrasting color yarn.
Change to contrasting color yarn. Rnd 101: (K5, KFB) 2 = 14 sts
Rnds 51-52: K13 = 13 sts Rnd 103: (K6, KFB) 2 = 16 sts
Rnd 53: K2tog, K11 = 12 sts Rnd 104: (K7, KFB) 2 = 18 sts
Rnd 54: K12 = 12 sts Rnd 105: K18 = 18 sts
Change to main color yarn. Do not cast off. Move the sts onto a stitch holder. Do
Rnd 55: K12 = 12 sts not break yarn.
Rnds 56-57: K12 = 12 sts
Rnd 58: K12 = 12 sts
Rnds 59-63: K12 = 12 sts
Rnds 64-67: K12 = 12 sts Assembling the leg and the foot
Change to contrasting color yarn. Sew the right foot onto the right leg angling the foot
Rnds 68-69: K12 = 12 sts to point outwards just a little. Make sure you slightly
Change to main color yarn. stretch the starting edge of the leg onto the foot
Rnd 70: K12 = 12 sts
21
while sewing. Sew the left foot onto the left leg the
same way.
Body
Marker will run up the center of the back. Stuff
firmly but do not overstuff as you go.
If the round marker remained straight while knitting
the legs, the last stitch on Round 105 should be
positioned directly above the heel. If the round
marker has strayed off course, then shift stitches will
be required to bring the working loop to this point
(above the heel). Work as many stitches as required.
If you want the feet to point to the sides – start
working Round 1 from this point.
If you want the feet to point forward, you will have to
work a few more shift stitches to bring the working
loop to the inner thigh.
Work as many sts as you need to reach the position
of the last st needed and start working the body.
Start working with the right leg (the one you did not
break yarn for).
Rnd 1: cast on 20 sts; along the left leg: (starting
point is symmetrical to the starting point of the right
leg): K8, 2KFB, K8; cast on 20 sts; along the right
leg: K8, 2KFB, K8 = 80 sts
22

Rnd 10: K80 = 80 sts
Rnds 11-12: K80 = 80 sts
Rnds 13-16: K80 = 80 sts
Rnd 17: K10, (K2tog, K7) 2, K2tog, K20, (K2tog,
Short row: K10 K7) 2, K2tog, K10 = 74 sts
Move the round marker. Start the next round from Rnd 18: K74 = 74 sts
the next needle. The sts are divided between five Rnd 19: K10, (K2tog, K6) 2, K2tog, K18, (K2tog,
needles now, the 6th needle to work the sts. K6) 2, K2tog, K10 = 68 sts
Rnd 20: K9, (K2tog, K5) 2, K2tog, K18, (K2tog,
K5) 2, K2tog, K9 = 62 sts
Rnd 21: K62 = 62 sts
Rnd 24: K58 = 58 sts
Sew the opening between the legs.
23

Rnds 38-39: K40 = 40 sts
Rnds 41-42: K38 = 38 sts
Rnds 44-46: K36 = 36 sts
Rnds 48-49: K34 = 34 sts
Rnds 50-51: K34 = 34 sts
Rnds 53-58: K32 = 32 sts
Rnds 59-61: K32 = 32 sts
Rnds 62-63: K32 = 32 sts
Rnd 64: K32 = 32 sts
Rnd 26: K13, K2tog, K26, K2tog, K13 = 54 sts Change to main color yarn.
Rnd 28: K13, K2tog, K24, K2tog, K13 = 52 sts Rnds 70-75: K32 = 32 sts
Rnd 29: K12, K2tog, K24, K2tog, K12 = 50 sts Rnd 76: K7, K2tog, K14, K2tog, K7 = 30 sts
Rnd 31: K12, K2tog, K22, K2tog, K12 = 48 sts Change to contrasting color yarn.
Change to main color yarn. Join arms with their inner sides facing the body with
Rnd 35: K10, K2tog, K20, K2tog, K10 = 42 sts the thumb facing forward.
Rnd 36: K42 = 42 sts
24
Rnd 85: K4, K5 through the sts of the body and the
left arm to join at the same time casting off these 5
sts, K12, K5 through the sts of the body and the right
arm to join at the same time casting off these 5 sts,
K4 = 30 sts
Rnd 87: K34 = 34 sts

Rnds 88-90: K34 = 34 sts
Rnd 86: K4, K7 along the unworked sts of the left Rnd 91: K2, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K8,
arm, K12, K7 along the unworked sts of the right K2tog, K2, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K2 = 28 sts
arm, K4 = 34 sts Change to main color yarn.

Rnd 92: K2, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K6, K2tog, K5,
K2tog, K2 = 24 sts
Rnd 93: K24 = 24 sts
Rnd 94: K2, K2tog, (K4, K2tog) 3, K2 = 20 sts
Rnds 95-97: K20 = 20 sts
Rnds 98-100: K20 = 20 sts
Rnds 101-103: K20 = 20 sts
Rnds 104-105: K20 = 20 sts
Rnds 106-108: K20 = 20 sts
Rnd 109: K20 = 20 sts
Rnd 110: (K4, KFB) 4 = 24 sts
Rnd 111: K24 = 24 sts
Rnd 112: (K3, KFB) 6 = 30 sts
Rnd 113: K30 = 30 sts
25
Cast off. Rnd 3: K12 = 12 sts

Rnd 4: (K1, KFB) 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 5: (K2, KFB) 6 = 24 sts
Rnd 6: K24 = 24 sts
Rnd 7: (K3, KFB) 6 = 30 sts
Rnd 8: (K4, KFB) 6 = 36 sts
Rnds 9-12: K36 = 36 sts
Rnd 13-15: K36 = 36 sts
Fold the last few rounds of the neck to the inside, so
Rnd 16: K36 = 36 sts
that the edge of the fold is at Round 105. If you want
to make the neck firmer you can insert a piece of
Rnds 17-18: K36 = 36 sts
thick cloth inside the folded part.
Rnds 19-21: K36 = 36 sts
Rnds 22-25: K36 = 36 sts
Rnd 27: K34 = 34 sts
Rnds 30-33: K30 = 30 sts
Rnd 34: K30 = 30 sts
Rnds 36-39: K28 = 28 sts
Ears Rnd 40: K28 = 28 sts
Do not stuff. Change to contrasting color yarn.
Left ear
pointed needles.
Rnd 1: K6 = 6 sts
26
Rnd 85: K24 = 24 sts

Rnds 86-87: K24 = 24 sts
Rnds 88-94: K24 = 24 sts
Rnds 95-97: K24 = 24 sts
Rnds 42-43: K26 = 26 sts
Rnds 98-102: K24 = 24 sts
Rnds 44-46: K26 = 26 sts
Rnds 103-105: K24 = 24 sts
Rnd 48: K24 = 24 sts
Rnd 106: K24 = 24 sts
Rnds 49-52: K24 = 24 sts
Rnds 107-108: K24 = 24 sts
Rnds 53-55: K24 = 24 st
Rnds 109-117: K24 = 24 sts
Rnds 56-60: K24 = 24 st
Rnds 118-121: K24 = 24 sts
Cast off. Break yarn, leaving a tail for sewing.
Rnd 61: K24 = 24 st
Rnds 62-63: K24 = 24 st
Rnd 64: K24 = 24 st
Right ear
with contrasting color yarn
Rnds 65-73: K24 = 24 st
pointed needles.
Rnds 74-76: K24 = 24 st
Rnd 1: K6 = 6 sts
Rnds 77-79: K24 = 24 st
Rnd 3: K12 = 12 sts
Rnd 4: (K1, KFB) 6 = 18 sts
Rnds 80-81: K24 = 24 st
Rnd 5: (K2, KFB) 6 = 24 sts
Rnd 6: K24 = 24 sts
Rnd 82: K24 = 24 st
Rnd 7: (K3, KFB) 6 = 30 sts
Rnd 8: (K4, KFB) 6 = 36 sts
Rnds 83-84: K24 = 24 sts
Rnds 9-12: K36 = 36 sts
27

Change to main color yarn. Change to main color yarn.
Rnd 28: K10, K2tog, K10, K2tog, K10 = 32 sts Rnd 82: K24 = 24 sts
Rnd 34: K30 = 30 sts Rnd 85: K24 = 24 sts
Change to contrasting color yarn. Change to contrasting color yarn.
Rnd 48: K24 = 24 sts Rnd 106: K24 = 24 sts
28
Cast off. Break yarn, leaving a tail for sewing.
Tail
with contrasting color yarn
pointed needles. Change to contrasting color yarn.
Rnd 1: K6 = 6 sts
Rnd 10: (K5, KFB) 6 = 42 sts
Rnds 11-13: K42 = 42 sts
Rnds 14-16: K42 = 42 sts
Rnds 17-18: K42 = 42 sts
Rnd 19: K42 = 42 sts
Rnd 20: (K5, K2tog) 6 = 36 sts
Rnd 21: K36 = 36 sts
Rnd 22: (K4, K2tog) 6 = 30 sts
Rnd 3: K12 = 12 sts
Rnd 23: (K3, K2tog) 6 = 24 sts
Rnd 4: (K1, KFB) 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 24: K24 = 24 sts
Rnd 5: (K2, KFB) 6 = 24 sts
Rnd 25: (K2, K2tog) 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 6: K24 = 24 sts
Cast off, leaving a tail for sewing. Stuff slightly.
Rnd 7: (K3, KFB) 6 = 30 sts
Rnd 8: (K4, KFB) 6 = 36 sts
Rnd 9: K36 = 36 sts
29
Sew the nose onto the head slightly pressing the

eyes. The nose should be as close to the eyes as
possible and form a single eye-nose piece.
Assembling
Teeth
Sew the teeth together.
Sew the teeth onto the head. I did it approximately

12 rounds up from the needle sculpting 4-41.
Tail
Sew the tail onto the back part of the body. I did it
between Rnds 12 and 21.
Eyes-nose
Sew the eyes onto the head. The color change of the
eyes should level with the top edge of the cheeks.
30
Neck-head
Find the right position for the head using sewing
pins and neck markers (I did it between Rnds 36 and
45). Sew the head onto the body adding stuffing
before making the final stitches. The neck should be
stuffed very firmly.
31
Secure strong thread to the front of the neck, right at

Ears
the seam that joins it to the head.
Fold each ear in half and put them together. Sew
them throughout to join and secure the yarn.
Insert needle at this point, and exit just beneath the

front of the nose, at the sculpting line for the muzzle.
Try the ears onto the head to find the right position
and secure with sewing pins. Sew the ears onto the
head around the perimeter.
32
Insert needle 4-5 stitches away – down the sculpting Your rabbit is ready!
line, and go back to your starting point at the neck.
Pull up the yarn. The neck should go into the head
quite deeply. Repeat the process several times if
needed.
The chin should align with the shoulders when

viewed from the side.
33
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Contacts: I’d love to see the results of your hard work! Please share photos of your finished
creation directly on our Facebook page, add project to the pattern on Ravelry and Craftsy, email me,
and/or find me on other sites. Just search “LittleOwlsHut”.
Tell me about your crocheting adventures, I would love to hear it.
Find me on:
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Copyright notes: ©2017 LittleOwlsHut. Finished products created with this pattern
may be used for commercial sale, provided you comply with the following:
• The items must be 100% handmade by you - the purchaser of the pattern (no production-line
allowed). Every person who uses my patterns to make items for sale must have their own copy
of the pattern.
• Any items for sale must state in the item description that they are based on ‘LittleOwlsHut’
pattern, include the name of the designer and also include a link to my website
(www.LittleOwlsHut.com)
• Any items you sell based on my patterns must feature only your own photographs of the item
you have made to sell. You do not have permission to use my photographs to help sell your
work.
Text and images Copyright ©2017 by LittleOwlsHut, all rights reserved.

No pattern may be reproduced or distributed — mechanically, electronically, or by any other means,
including photocopying, without written permission. I work very hard to design and write these
patterns. Thank you so much for your understanding, and happy crocheting!
Warning: Because your finished project may have small parts, please be extremely cautious if
you decide to give it to a child. Also, if you decide to sell your finished project, remember to include
warning for people purchasing it.
35

Knitting Pattern: Rabbit Dude Keks

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LittleOwlsHut

Skill level: Experienced

www.LittleOwlsHut.com Any questions or comments: info@LittleOwlsHut.com

Tip (yarn) Skill levels

Needles conversion chart Projects with intricate stitch patterns, techniques

Baby Softy TIP

Tip (round marker)

Row 1: K3, leave the remaining 12 sts unworked

The top part of the eyelids

Assemble the eyes.

Each eyelid is worked as follows:

Rnd 6: (2KFB, K8) 2 = 24 sts

Close up the remaining opening if needed (at the

Rnd 2: KFB, K2, KFBF, K3 = 10 sts

Rnd 5: (2KFB, K6) 2 = 20 sts

Rnd 2: 6KFB = 12 sts

Tip: I recommend that you use different colors for

Rnd 56: K25, K2tog, K3, marker #1, K2tog, K6,

Do not sew the mouth. You will do it after needle

Now knit in the opposite direction (not in the

Assembling the right hand

Rnds 2-3: K27 = 27 sts

Rnd 15: K26 = 26 sts

Stuff the hand firmly but do not overstuff. Stuff the

CC-MM-CC-M-CC-MMMMM-CCC-MM-CCCC-MM- Rnds 27-29: K14 = 14 sts

Rnd 18: K18 = 18 sts pointed needles.

Rnd 19: K16, K2tog = 17 sts Rnd 5: (K2, KFB) 6 = 24 sts

Rnd 20: K15, K2tog = 16 sts Rnd 6: K24 = 24 sts

Rnd 21: K16 = 16 sts Rnd 7: (K7, KFB) 3 = 27 sts

Rnd 22: K14, K2tog = 15 sts Rnds 8-12: K27 = 27 sts

Rnds 23-25: K15 = 15 sts Rnd 13: (K7, K2tog) 3 = 24 sts

Rnd 34: K1, K2tog, K11, KFB, K10, K2tog, K1 = 27

Rnd 1: K8 along toe #1, K9 along toe #2, K15 along

Rnd 19: K15, K2tog, K15 = 31 sts

sts Left leg

Rnd 33: K28 = 28 st with main color yarn

sts double-pointed needles.

Rnd 36: K25 = 25 sts Change to contrasting color yarn.

Rnds 5-6: K28 = 28 sts Change to main color yarn.

Change to contrasting color yarn.

Rnds 30-31: K20 = 20 sts Change to contrasting color yarn.

Rnd 70: K12 = 12 sts

Change to contrasting color yarn.

Rnd 37: K10, K2tog, K18, K2tog, K10 = 40 sts

Rnd 87: K34 = 34 sts

arm, K4 = 34 sts Change to main color yarn.

Cast off. Rnd 3: K12 = 12 sts

Rnd 85: K24 = 24 sts

Rnds 13-15: K36 = 36 sts Change to main color yarn.

Cast off. Break yarn, leaving a tail for sewing.

Sew the nose onto the head slightly pressing the

Sew the teeth onto the head. I did it approximately

Secure strong thread to the front of the neck, right at

Insert needle at this point, and exit just beneath the

The chin should align with the shoulders when

FREE Crochet Patterns at www.LittleOwlsHut.com

Dog Buffy Sheep Dolly Dog

Crochet patterns available for sale at Little Owl’s Hut

Christmas tree Reindeer Santa and Reindeer Christmas tree

Bears Angel Cockroach Fat Cat

Download the free “QR-

Tell me about your crocheting adventures, I would love to hear it.

https://goo.gl/ydrkC5 http://goo.gl/lwFLSB http://goo.gl/lwFLSB http://goo.gl/VMtdJ8