87701The recommendations in this APA THE ENGINEERED WOOD ASSOCIATION guide apply only to panels that bear the APA trademark. Only RATED SHEATHING 32/16 1592 INCH SIZED FoR SPACING EXPOSURE 1 — 000 —__. are subject to the Association's PaP-108 usa panels bearing the APA trademark quality auditing program. DO THE RIGHT THING RIGHT™ Wood is good. itis the earth’s natural, energy efcient and renewable building material. Engineered wood is a better use of wood. I ses less wood to maike more wood products, That's why using APA trademarked plywood, oviented strand board and APA EWS laminated beams is the right thing todo, A few facts about wood. + We're not running out of trees, One-third ofthe United States land hase ~ 731 milion acres 1s covered by forests. About two-thirds ofthat 731 million acres is suitable or repeated planting and harvesting of timber. But only about half ofthe lana suitable for growing timber is open to logging Most of that harvestable acreage also is open to other uses, such as camping, hiking hun nf et + We're growing more wood every day: American landowners plant more than two billion trees every ear I adltion, millions of trees seed naturally. The forest products industry, which comprises about 15 percent of forestland owmershp, is responsible for 41 percent of replanted forest acreage. Tat works ‘ut to more than one bilion tees a year, or about three milion tres planted every day. This high rate of replanting accounts for the fact that each year, 27 percent move timber is grown than is harvested + Manufacturing wood is energy efficient, Wood products made up 47 percent of al industrial raw ‘materials manufactured in che United States, yet consumed only 4 percent of the energy needed (0 ‘manufacture all industrial raw materials, according toa 1987 su, Percent of| Percent of Material Production Energy Use Wood 7 4 Stel 2B 48 luminary 2 8 *+ Good news for a healthy planet. For every ton of wood grown, a young forest produces 1.07 tons of ngygen and absorbs 1.47 tons of carbon dixie Wood. tes the right product for the environmentCONTENTS About engineered wood construction products. Glulams Lay out che foundation, Install foundation and post footings Set posts and girders Frame the floor. Insall subfloring, Install APA Rated Sturd--Floor Frame the walls Install APA Sturd:L Wall Install siding over sheathing Frame the ceiling, Frame the roof Install oof sheathing Nall ypes and sizes Finishing exterior siding, Glossary ‘About APA eo Noe aa 37 INTRODUCTION This brochure from APA ~ The Engincred Word Association is designed as an elementary nde to woodframe construction for those who have litle practical construction experince. It itustrates the basic steps to completing the structural sel ofa fpcal single-story house ~ rom the foundation tothe roof For the purpose of istration, an example 24 x 28,oot house i used throughout A glossary of common terms is also provided on page 37, Mechanical tasks, such as plumbing and varing, and fishing details for flooring wofng interior wall and ceiling coverings, ec, are not covered. The purchase ofa suitable house plan, of couse, isthe first step in home constraction ‘And while designing and planning house are Ibeyond te scape ofthis brochure, we hope the material presented will prove helpflin conjunction with your particular house plan. Local building codes vary soa be sre to check wth your building officals for proper permits ana final plan approval In some cases, alternate methods of ‘constrction are explained or bry described here. For others, you'l find a. wide variety of Iterature at your loa brary See ako the partial sting on page 39 of atonal publications avilable from APA~ The Engineered Wood Associaton.ABOUT ENGINEERED WOOD CONSTRUCTION PRODUCTS PANEL PRODUCT AND PERFORMANCE STANDARDS Panels for construction applications can be rmamulactured in a variety of ways — as plywood (crosslaminated wood venee!), as oriented strand board (OSB), or as compos- ites (veneer faces bonded to OSB cones) ‘Some plywood panels are manufactured under the detailed manufacturing specif cations or under the performance testing provisions of Voluntary Product Standart S 1-95 for Construction and Industral Plywood, developed cooperatively by the plywood industry and the U'S. Depart ment of Commerce. Other plywood panels, however, as well as composite and (058 panels, are manufactured under the provisions of APA PRP-108, Performance Standards and Policies for Structural-Use Panels, or under Voluntary Product Standard PS 2-92, Performance Standard for Wood Based Structural-Use Panels, that establish performance criteria for specific designated construction applications These APA Performance Rated Panels are easy to use and specify because the recommended end use and maximum support spacings are clearly indicated in the APA trademark, By broadening the range of panel configuration and compo- sition, APA Performance Rated Panels allow more efcient use of raw materials AAPA PRP-108 Performance Standards are recognized by the National Evaluation Service and HUD. PRP-108, P5-1 andor the P5-2 grade conformance where applic able are given in the lower portion of the AAPA trademark, Piywood panels, depend ing on giueline clasificarion, veneer species and thickness, etc, are in many instances identical to panel grades as defined in Product Standard PS 1-95. ‘A ypical trademark for one of the APA Performance Rated Panels ~ APA RATED SHEATHING ~is shown below. RADE DESIGNATIONS Panel grades are generally dentifed in tems ofthe veneer grade used om the face and back of the panel (eg, AB, B-C, ec), or by APA THE ENGINEERED WOOD ASSOCIATION Pore grade RATED SHEATHING Spon Rong 32 /1 § 15/82 INCH ~~ SIZED FOR SPACING Exposure dvabity —_——— EXPOSURE 1 000 Mit Number PRP-108 ma Perormance fated Porat Sanda aname suggesting the panel's intended end use (¢g,, APA RATED SHEATHING, APS RATED STURD-L-FLOOR, etc). Veneer grades define veneer appearance {ncerms of natural unrepaired growth char- acteristics and allowable number and size ‘of tepais that may be made during manu- facture, The highest quality veneer graces are N and A, The minimum grade of veneer ‘permitted in Exterior plywood is C-gyade Dgrade veneer is used in panels intended for interior use or applications protected from permanent exposure to weather (@ The Nato Elation Sences sponoed sey byte dee mal code orgiations he Buin Of nd Coe Administrator Internat, provisos of he National Bulg Cade he eematonal Conforneof ung Ofc, roma the Uno Bulg Cade; and the Souther ung Code Congres imate, promultos of he Standard ulin Code See National Eaton Senie Report No, NER-108 or allow values ar contons of se concerning material presenti is Brochure. es suet 0 reeumiaton, reson, and pose cancelation HUD recognition of woo asad APA Performance Rated Panels contained in Use of Materials Bulewn UM-40, orn UM-64 or APA Rated Siding 303 pod.SANDED, UNSANDED AND. YOUCH-SANDED PANELS Panels with B-grade or better veneer faces are always sanded smooth in mamtuacture to fulfill the requirements of their intended end use ~ applications such as cabinets, shelving, furniture, builtins, et. APA RATED SHEATHING panels are unsanded since a smooth surface is not a requite- ‘ment of ther intended end use. Sail other panels ~ APA UNDERLAYMENT, APA RATED STURD-FFLOOR, APA C-D PLUGGED and APA C-C PLUGGED require only touch-sanding for “sizing” to make the panel thickness more uniform, ‘Unsanded and touch-sanded panels, and panels with Begrade or better veneer ‘on one side only, usually cary the APA trademark on the panel back, Panels with both sides of B-grade or better veneer, ot ‘with special overlaid surfaces (such as HIGH DENSITY OVERLAY. usually cary the APA uademark on the panel edge. EXPOSURE DURABILITY [APA trademarked panels may be pro- duced in four exposure durability classifications — Exterior, Exposure 1, Exposure 2, and interior Exterior panels hive a filly waterproof bond and are designed for applications subject to permanent exposure to the weather or to moisture. expe: panels have a fully waterproof bond and are designed for applications where long construction delays may be expected prior to providing protection, or where high moisture condi- tions may be encountered in service. Exposure 1 panels are made with the same exterior achesives used in Exterior panels However, because other compositional {actors may affect bond performance, only Exterior panels should be used for ‘permanent exposure 1 the weather NOTE: Plywood APA Rated Sheathing Exposure 1, commonly called "COX" in the mde is sometimes mistaken an Exterior panel and eronecusly used in applications for ‘which t does not possess te required resistance to weather, “CDX” should only be used for applicaons as outlined under [Exposure 1 above, For sheathing grade panels ‘hat wall be exposed permanently o the ‘weather, specily APA Rated Sheathing Exterior (CC Exterior phywood under PS 1) Exposure 2 panels (identified as Interior type with intermediate glue under 5 1) are intended for protected construc tion applications where only moderate delays in providing protection from moisture may be expected Imtertor panes which lack further gluetine information in their trademarks are manufactured with interior glue and are intended for interior applications only. Rou Num Plywood can be manufactured from over 7O species of wood. These species are divided on the bass of strength and stif- ress into five Groups under U'S. Product Standard PS 1-95. Smongest species are in Group 1; the next strongest in Group 2, and so on, The Group number that appears in the trademark on some APA trademarked panels -primanly sanded spades ~ is based on the species used for face and back veneers. Where face and ‘back veneers are not from the same species Group, the higher Group number is used, except for sanded panels 3/8nch-thick oF less and Decorative panels of any thickness. These are idemtified by fae species because they are chosen primanly for appearance and used in applications where structural integrity isnot cra Sanded panels greater chan 3/8 inch are identified by face species if C-or D-grade backs ate atleast 1/8 inch and are no more than one species Group number larger Some species are used widely in plywood manufacture; others rarely. Check local availability fa particular species is desied, SPAN RATINGS APA RATED SHEATHING, APA RATED STURD-LFLOOR and APA RATED SIDING carry numbers in their tade- ‘marks called Span Ratings. These denote the maximum recommended centert0- ‘center spacing in inches of supports over which the panels should be placed in construction applications, Except for APA RATED SIDING panels, the Span Racing in the trademark applies whet the long panel dimension i across suppor, unless the strength axis is otherwise identified. The Span Rating in the trademark of RATED SIDING panels applies when installed vertically ‘The Span Rating in APA RATED SHEATHING trademarks appears as 10 ‘numbers separated by a slash, such as 32/16, 48/24, etc The lef-hand number denotes the maximum recommended spacing of supports when the panel is used. (a) An exeption s APA RATED SHEATHING imtended for use as walsheathing only. The traumas for such parts comtan a single ‘umber silat the Spar Rating fer APA RATED SIDING.{or roof sheathing with the long dimen- sion or strength axis ofthe panel across three of more supports. The right-hand ‘number indicates the maximum recom mended spacing of support when the panel is used for subflooring withthe Tong dimension or strength axis ofthe panel across three or more supports. A panel ‘marked 32/16, for example, may be used for roof decking over supports 32 inches (on center o for subflooring over suppons 16 inches on center ‘The Span Ratings in the trademarks on [APA RATED STURD-LFLOOR and RATED SIDING panels appear asa single number APA RATED STURD-I-FLOOR panels are designed specifically for single- floor (combined subloorunderlayment) applications under carpet and pad und are ‘manufactured with Span Ratings of 16, 20, 24, 32 and 48 oc. The Span Ratings for APA RATED STURD-LFLOOR panels, lke those for APA RATED SHEATHING, are based on application ofthe panel with the long dimension or strength axis across three or more supports. APA RATED SIDING is produced with Span Ratings of 16 and 24 oc. Span-rated panels and lap siding may be used direct to studs or over nonstructural wall sheathing (Srurd-5Aall construction), or cover nalable pane! or lumber sheathing (oubte wall constriction), Panes and lap siding with a Span Rating of 16 0c may be applied direct to studs spaced 16 inches on center Panels and lap siding bearing a ‘Span Rating of 24 oc may be used direct to studs 24 inches on center All RATED SIDING panels may be applied horizon- tally diect ro studs 16 of 24 inches on center provided horizontal join are blocked. When used over nailable strac- trl sheathing, the Span Rating of RATED SIDING panels refers to the maximum recommended spacing of veical rows of nails rather than to stud spacing @LUuLAMS Glued laminated timbers (ulams) are composed of individual pieces of dimen- sion lumber The pieces are end jointed together to produce long lengths which are then bonded together with adhesives 10 create beams ofa variety of dimensions. Because oftheir composition, large slulams can be manufactured from smaller trees harvested from secondl- and third- growth forests and plantations. Glas have greater stength and stifiness chan comparable dimensional lumber. Pound for pound, they are stronger than sted That means they can span long distances ‘with minimal need for intermediate sup- Ponts. Some ofthe most common uses of ‘lulams in home construction include floor girders, garage door headers, window and door headers, and ridge beams. Glulams are avilable in a wide range of stock sizes and can be manufactured in ‘custom sizes to meet the requirements of any job. Typical widths fr stock beams are 31/8, 312, 518, 54172 and 63/4 inches. Beams having a width of 31/2 of 5-12 inches are recommended for use only in concealed applications or when appearance isnot important. Custom, beams can be manufactured in these and cther widths as required. Stock beams, ‘depending on their width, typically range from 6 inches ro 36 inches in depth Individual laminations are typically 11/2 inches thick, although some mamu- facrers use 15/8-inch laminations, Ind- vidal laminations may nor exceed 2 inches fn net thickness. Vitually any depth is available for custom-ordered beams. Stock beams are cut to length when ordered from local inventories. Beams in sies commonly used for residential consuction are readily available fom distributors and dealers throughout the U.S. and Canada. APA EWS trademarked glulams are available in three appearance grades — Industrial, Architectural, and Premium, Industral grade beams are normally specified for concealed applications or ‘where the finished appearance of the ‘member i not of primary importance. ‘Architectural sche grade most commonly Used in exposed applications because it provides a smooth, beautiful appearance. Premium grade beams ae the highest appearance grade manufactured and are ‘ypicilly custom-ordered, Appearance grades are not related to beam layup procedures and thus do not affect beam strength, stiffness or performanceLaying out a foundation isthe critical beginning in house construction. Itis a simple but extremely important process and requires careful work. Ifyou make sure the foundation is square and lee, you will find all later jobs ~ from rough carpentry through finish construction and install tion of cabinetry ~ are male much easier 11, Make sure your proposed house location on the lot complies with local regulations. If property lines ae at all in question, verify location of lorie comers by cing coun, or private surveyor: Once. ‘property lines ae established, itis equally vital that you review city, county, or state requirements on location of the house with respect to propery lines. Most regulations require that a house be set back from the street propery line a specified distance (often 25 to 30 feed) and ‘that sides of the house be set ack from. adjoining propery lines (often 5 to 10 feed), Carelessness in establishing property lines and allowable house location could result in extending garage or furure addition over a neighbor's property line, or in an infringement of local building coe regulations. Oye corer stoke 22) LAY OUT THE FOUNDATION 22. Set house location, based on required setbacks and other factors such a the natural drainage patter of the lt; then level or at least rough clear the ste Lay out the outside foundation lines Figure L shows the simplest method for locating these, Locate each outside comer ofthe house and drive small stakes into the ground. Drive tacks into tops ofthese stakes to indicate the outside line of the Corner tock Stoke (22), foundation wal (not footings). Next check squareness of house by measuring the diagonals, comer to comer, to see that they are equal. (Uf structure is rectangular, all diagonal measurements will be equal.) You 2 Soke CM) a can check squareness of any comer by ‘measuring down one sie for 6 feet, dow the other for 8 fet. The length of the iagonal line across these two endpoints should measure exactly 10 feet. fit doesn't, the comer isnt uly square Gee Figure 2) ‘4. Alter comers are located and squared, dive three 2x 4 stakes at each comer as shown in Figure 1. Locate these stakes 3 to 4 feet outside the actual foundation line ‘Then nail 1 x6 batter boards horizontally so that their top edges areal level and at the same grade (See Step 6 fora method of checking ther levelness). Hold a string ine across tops of opposite batter boards at ‘wo comers and, using a plumb bob, adjust so that itis exactly over the tacks in the two comer stakes, Cut saw ker 1/4 inch deep where che line couches the batter boatds so that sting ines may be easily replaced if broken or disturbed Carll saw kerfs the same depth since the string line not only defines the outside edges of the foundation but will provide a reference line to ensure uniform depth of footing excavation. When you have made Foundation wal ne ouside) Bator bord (7)similar cus in all eight batter boards and the four lines in position, che are accurately outside foundation lin established. 15. Next, locate the lenglhwisegier location, usually on the eenetine ofthe house. Double check your house plans for exact positon since occasionally the girder wil be slightly of centerline to support an interior bearing wall To find the line, measure the corect distance from comers. Then install batter boards and locate string line asin Step 4 46. Check for foundation levelness Remember thatthe top ofthe foundation ‘must be level around the entre perimeter ofthe house. The most accurate ~ and simplest — way to check thsi tose a surveyor's level, ifyou have access to and. familiarity with this too. The next best approach is to ensure that batter boards, and thus tring lines, ae all absolutely level. You can accomplish this swith a 10-to L4Hoot piece of straight lumber (Judge its straightness by sighting along the surface.) Using this straightedge in conjunction with a carpenter or masonry level, drive temporary stakes around the house perimeter, spaced 2 distance apart, not exceeding te length of the straightedge lumber (see Figure 3). Then place one end of the straightedge on batter board, check for exact levees, and drive another stake 10 the same height. Each time a stake is driven, the staight- edge and lew should be reversed ene-for end, which should ensure close aceuracy in establishing the height of each stake with reference to the bater board. The final check on overall levelness comes wen you level the last take with the batter board where you began. Ifthe straightedge is level here, then you have level foundation base line. During foundation excavation, the comer stakes and temporary leveling stakes will be removed. This stresses the ‘importance ofthe leveled bater boards and string line, because comers and foundation levelness must be located using the string line. NOTE: The foundation example dustrated here isfor concrete bloc, although poured concrete and the Permanent Wood Foundation (FWP) can algo be used. Foundation wal ne ovis) “Temporary levting soko ~ shaightedgeINSTALL Post Footines ‘When foundation layout is complete, study the house drawing details and con- struction notes as wel s the guidelines given here before proceeding, Poured concrete footings are most commonly used for house foundations Footings, properly sized and constructed, prevent settling or cracking of building walls, Footings must be completely level, and must extend at least 12 inches below the frost line and at leas 6 inches into undisturbed soil. These requirements dlictae the depth at which you place the footings. Do not place foundations on black topsoil. Do not pour concrete ifthe temperature is expected to go below about 40 F ‘within the first week after pour, urless you are prepared to take extensive measues 10 protect it A tow of post footings will be located, along the centerline ofthe house, These “support posts and girders, in tum, suppor. the floor joists. Minimum height for post foorings should be 8 inches above finish agade in crawl -space foundations. Fost foocing thickness is determined in Step 3 Footines 1. Make preliminary excavation for perimeter foosing. The amount of excavation may vary, depending on site conditions. To allow yourself adequate working space, excavate about 2 feet beyond the outside ofthe wal, (if you dig too deep, ill with concrete — never soil} FOUNDATION AND PosT 22. Using plumb bob from the founds- tion layout string line, locate outside comers of the block foundation, Measure about + inches beyond comer points ro establish footing edge lines Gee Figure). Outline both outside and inside perimeters of the footing with string, Dig the footing ‘tench to required depth. Install forms of 15/32-inch APA trademarked plywood or 2.x8's supported by 2 x 4 stakes driven {nto the sol about 2 feet apart (Gee Figure 2). These stakes should be driven below the top of the formboards to facilitate leveling the concrete. FOOTINGS ‘3. Using the lengthwise centerline string, ‘mark locations for foot supporting pests. Fost spacing is specified on your house plan, as is post footing size. Post footings ate generally bout 20 inches square, but ‘may vary in size depending on allowable soil pressure and post spacing. Again, check local building codes. Some require @ steel tod extending out the top ofthe post footing to engage the post and keep icin place. The bottom of the footing should be atthe same jevel asthe perimeter footing, Height should be a minimum of 8 inches above ground in a crawhspace house Build forms of 15/32-inch APA trademarked plywood and 2 x 4's End: post footings may be poured integrally with the perimeter footings ‘4. Prepare and place concrete. If ready- rmix concrete is available, order a mix with at least 2000 psi 28-day strength. Or you can mix concrete on the site using a 1:3:5, rmix (one part by volume of Portland. cement; 3 pans clean sand: and 5 pars graveD, Use about 5-1/2 gallons of water per sack of cement if sand is wet, {6-1/4 gallons per sack if sand is dry). Mix conerete thoroughly, and place in forms in thin layers, “Spade” and tamp concrete carefully between pours to prevent ait pockets. Top of foosings should be smooth and level all around '8. Cure concrete and snip forms. in ‘warm weather, leave forms in place for thee days, sprinkling daly with water so concrete will not dry t00 quickly. In cool ‘weather, leave forms in place seven days; in cold weather (below 40 F), don't pourFOUNDATION WALL ©. Asin Step 2, accurately locate outside wall comers on footings, using a plum bob. Block walls should be centered on footing) String a cord tautly becween comers t0 outline outside of block wall and mark wit chalk, oF use a chalk ine Lay the fist couse of blocks without ‘momar all around the perimeter to deter mine joint spacing and whether you will have to cut any blocks, Space blocks 3/8 inch apart (43/4 inch maximum joint is allowable, provided the average forthe entire course is no more than 1/2 inch) Mark each joint on the foundation, Check the house plan for any required openings for crawt space vents, drains, utiles, ee 17. Prepare mortar. Mix 2 parts masonry cement (or 1 part each of Portland cement and hytrated lime) with #10 6 pars of damp mortar sand, Add just enough water to make plastic mortar that clings to the trowel and block but is not so soft that it squeezes down too much when laying block. After mbsing, place mora on a et ‘mortar board near were blocks wil be lid, 8. Lay blocks as shown in Figure 3. ll blocks must conform to ASTM C-90, Grade A. Finished height ofthe foundarion wall should be apprenimately 12 inches above finish grade level, First build each, ‘comer up to fall height, o establish required thickness of joints. Use comer ‘locks with one ft end at comers. Build comers up using a mason’s level to keep blocks plumb and level. Then stretch line between comers to guide placement of aditional block. For the frst course of blocks, place mortar on footing for the fll width ofthe block. For sueceeding courses, apply mortar om face shells only hoped fol iron slong jens fo-compas! money on fees of wall enpoved te wosther Blur ond sage‘9. Set anchor bots for sill plate, Before laying the last two courses, locate andl position anchor bots as shown on plans, a . zen ora in Figure 4 mot shown on plans. robes pean hese wed 8) =e Be sure to provide at leat ro bolts pet Tie mo individual il plate. Fla els in the top > ‘course, or cover with ‘inch solid masonry Units, o use a wood sil plate wide enough to bear on both the inner and outer shells ‘ofthe blocks, Insalfbergas sil sealer Soe between foundation and wood sll plate. hatte are. Te. Aer block was completed, wait at least seven days before placing backll aginst wall. Do not backfill unl oor sheathingis installed, Ifa drain is provided, slope soil in crawl space toward drain, F woshers or eauivolort) ficees ot block ot soem ‘onchor Ales place sip of ‘ota oe in ach call ot jpn below weshorSET POSTS AND GIRDERS Fests and girders are the basic structural ‘members that support the floor joists along, the centerline of the house. Wood posts ate fastened tothe gieler that rests upon them (see Figure 1. ‘Asch impregnated {oor ost singe Nor econo wih anchor (Ghlom girder shown Column bose onchor. FIGURE 1 Posts for an average house are generally alued laminated beams (Ghulam), 4 x 6 (06x 6 sold lumber, cut to proper length a outlined in Step 3. The girders used to support floor joists are often made up of 2 oF 3 pieces of 2x dimension lumber. Because dimension humberis susceptible ‘to warping, cupping, shrinkage ancl twisting a it dries out, the current trend is toward the use of giolam beams for this application Your house plans will specify post spacing, ginder span lengths, and lumber grades or ghulam combination symbol. ‘The long dimension of the house dictates the overall length ofthe gitcer For example, in a 48 foovlong house, chree girder sections each approximacely 16 feet long will be needed (see Step 1). Before ordering material, check local ‘conditions to see if materials must be treated for termite protection, Also check. plans to see whether a vapor bazrer {a good idea in any case) must be installed in the crawl space. 1. Determine length of girder required. (Overall ength ofthe girder is determined by the length ofthe house. The girder must reach from inside-surface ro inside- surface ofthe foundation wall, minus 1/2inch clearance on each end. In the ‘example 48-fo0t house, the overall girder length is 46 feet, 7 inches (48 fet less 16 inches to compensate for thickness of both end foundation walls and I inch total clearance). 22. Order the girder For the 48:00 hhouse, the centerline girder is best ordered in three 16-foot lengths, While glulam beams are available full length, 16-foot lengths would be easier to handle on the Job site. The two end glulams can be site cut to fc the exact dimension determined above or they can be ordered at exactly the lengths needed, Attachment over support posts can be by toenail, clip angle ar framing anchor as shown in Figure 1 ‘3. Determine length of posts. Ar each post location, stretch a line from opposite sill plates. Use building ewine or heavy riylon shine, and stretch it tight co mini mize sag, Measure down from the string to the post foundation, then subrract the depth of the girder from this dimension and cut post to length. If post footings have protruding lengths of reinforcing bax drill post bottom so the post can slip over the bar “4. Install a vapor retarder if required. Use a Gmil-thik polyethylene film, placed to cover all ground inside the foundation, lapping edges abour 6 inches. Use sand or gavel 1 hold edges dow, 8B. Place the posts on post fooings. Ifa ‘vapor retader as been stretched across the footings, rest posts directly on te vapor reurdet Ifno vapor retarderis present, use pieces of 15-pound asphal-impregnated building fle beween concrete post footing and end of post. Ifa column base anchor is used to anchor the post to the foundation, the 15-pound asphalcimpregnated building felt may be eliminated.6. Once all posts are in place, it girders and place them on top of posts. Girders should be cur so that but joints fall over the centerline ofa supporting post (see Figure 1). Thi the two end girder sections if necessary to allow fora 1/2inch, space between foundation and girder (Gee Figure 2) A his point it may be valuable to plumb and brace the posts and girders with 2x 4's and stakes, until oor Joists are installed 7. Now check the level ofthe ene girder Tops of al girders should be level with top of sil places Ge Figure 3). Shim ifnecessary. Once everything is level, temporarily nail the post to the girders The ends of the girders that butt together should be toenailed with at least six 10d common nails. Fmly attach the girder to each post on the underside with ‘galvanized stel framing anchors or clip angles and lag screws. NOTE: If sold lumber gers are used, hey should be placed so that the tp ofthe pers are slightly above the il plate (about 1/8 inch) to allow for shrinkageSee Figure 1 for an overall view of typical floor faming, Joists are the main supporting members ofthe foot They rest on the sill plate at the outside end and the ginder at the inner end. in residential construction, joists are generally 2x umber placed on edge. When purchasing lumber for ois, order iin died materi if avatable to minimize shrinkage. Be sure to check your house plas for joist size and spacing and for any special lumber grade requirements ‘The mast common spacing for joists — 16 inches o.c.~is used in this example Spacings of 24 inches or wider, however, ray also be used {mn planning jist layout, remember that panels are 4x 8 feet and that panel ends must be supported on joists to provide the necessary floor stifiness. Any joists having a slight bow edgevise should be placed so that the bow or “crown” ison top. Qibu can detemmine ia joist is crowned by sighting along the edge.) A crowmed joist wl tend to straighten out when subfloor and normal floor loading are applied. Also, with straight joss, che edge having the largest edge Jnots should be placed on top because, in that postion, the joss are sronger FRAME THE FLOOR Joust Lavour (JOISTS 16 INCHES 0.¢.) 11. Lay out floonjoist positions. Mark joist locations on the sill plates using two marks, one foreach side of the joist (See Figure 2). Mark the end joist location on the sll even with the outside edge ofthe sill, Mark the Tocation ofthe fist interior {ist so that spacing berween joists is 13-3/4 inches (16 inches from outside of sil 10 centerline of fist interior ois). Mark position of other joists, spacing them 16 inches o.c., continuing to the end of the house. The location ofthe end joist at this end of the house should also be ‘marked on the sll, comer Comer + r re} | [rasa re t rel a I Lop joist ie si FIGURE 2 2. Repeat this process on the opposite sil ‘xcept that spacing berween the end and frst interior ois is 1-1/4 inches (1441/2 inches from outside of sil to centerline of fist interior ois), to allow for joist overiap a the center ofthe house. You "must stat the joist layout from the same end wall asin Step 1, so that all joists are parallel to the outside walls, Also marie {ist locations on the gider, to ensure alignment of joists berween the sidewalls |B. Check the floor plan and mark on the sill plates the location of al partitions parallel 0 the joists. Generally, double joists are required under each partition, and the extra joists must be located and ‘marked on the sill. A regular joist can serve as one of the “doubling” joists (ee Figure 3). “4. Also mark location of any openings for crawlspace access, chimney, ete, Regular {joists on each side ofthese openings will bbe placed with other regula joists, but all special framing should be let out until these regular joists rein. (When locating a floor opening, measure from its center in ‘opposite directions to locate the inside edges. Tis is necessary to make sure the ‘opening is located properly according _— Ghulom girderSETTING THE Jo1s 1B. Select straight pieces of joist maria for headers and end joists. Cut and nail ther in place. Use 8d common nails and toenail from the outside lower edge of the Jheader and end jst nto the sil, spacing nails about every 16 inches. Nal comer joins with three 16d common nails 6. Using asteel square, mark vertical alignment foreach joist on the inside face ofim joists. Merely continue the horizontal lines on the sil to the inside face ofthe header 77. Cutjoists to length, if necessary. Lap fjoiss over center of the girder should be at least 4 inches and no more than 28 inches. Lay the joists across the sill and girder wih all crown edges facing the same dlirection. This eliminates the need for additional checking when joists are tipped up for installation, NOTE: Fle joists ean be butted over the center girder fo frm i-ine joists Gistead of Place joists at marks and drive two 16d common nails through the headers into the end of each floor joist. Toenail joists tothe girder, using three ‘common nails for each joist. Nal lapped joists together over girder with three 10 common nals FLOOR OPENINGS ‘9. Frame openings in floor as shown on plans. One such opening is strated in Figures | and 4. The order of placing ‘members is critical, if you are going to end- rail the members. Order of placement is illustrated in Figure 4 forthe particular ‘opening shown IFmembers are placed in the order shown, al but the “trimmers” can be end-nailed. ‘Analtemate method to the careful onder described above involves use of “framing anchors,” specially made steel angles which will allow placement of members in a more logical, less 11. Insal sold blocking berwen joists ‘over the girder to help keep the joists parallel and to straighten any hat tend to twist. Nal blocking on altemate sides of the girder centerline (see Figure 5). Drive two 16d nas into each end of each piece of blocking. Keep solid blocking fish with the top edges of the joists 12. Check level of top ofl joists, headers, and blocking, Shim up or tren down as needed to provide afr, level base for structural wood panel subflooring, Sareeditooeessd ineveinck cyl od Soke pie Ne Number how oe ls is = nti ie : (oy be apoced A lly A 7 2 x FIGURE 3 7 Regulor joist | Secondary rim 2 ae Fioure 4 \ mS BlockingINSTALL suB Subflocring is used over joists in two-layer construction to form a working platform and base for fnish flooring, Thats, the floor consists of structural wood pane! subflooring, a separate layer of underiay- ‘ment, and finally finish floor covering such, as carpet or resilient ties. The subflooring ‘can also be covered with hardwood. Singlefloor construction with APA RATED ‘STURD-LFLOOR panels aso is widely used (ee page 18). Many grades and thicknesses of structural wood panel sheathing are suitable for use as sublooring, but APA RATED SHEATHING EXP 1is most ‘commonly used, Panels of this grade camry «Span Rating in the APA trademark stamped on the panel back indicating the ‘maximum recommended cencerto-center spacing of joists. For example, a panel with a Span Rating of 32/16 can be used as sub- Alooring over joists spaced 16 inches 0. The lefe-hand number ~ 32 — represents the maximum recommended spacing of supports when the panel is used for roof sheathing, Be sure to specify panels marked Exposure 1 if construction delays wll result in prolonged outside storage or ‘exposure to the weather. Always cover and. protect subllooring and other panels ring construction if possible ‘When applying subflooring, place the panel on the joists so tha te face (best side) is up. Space APA RATED SHEATHING panels 1/8 inch at panel edge and end joins, SUBFLOOR SHEATHING Lavour (JOISTS 16 INCHES 0.c.) 11, Begin at the comer of the house where you began the joist layout. A litle time spent at chis point planning ahead can save time and material in che long run, Review your plans and male trial measurements With your tape to estimate how the fst row of panels will come out atthe other end of the floor Tb ensure proper lign- ment of the fist row, strike a chalk tine across the joists (the length of the floor atea) 4 fet, 0 inches in from the outside edge ofthe header Start the fist row with afullsized 4x 8Loot panel set flush wit the outside edge ofthe end and rim joists and the long panel dimension across the joists. Use the chalk mats as a guide for alignment of the firs row Allow appropriate spacing between panel ends. Trim the end of the last pane in the first row flush with the ‘end joist. (Any odd-sized panel sections required to fill in atthe end of arow should cover two or more spans. These fill-in panels must be placed with the fice sain across suppor) Ifthe last panel in the fist row comes cout 1 inch or more short ofthe inside edge of the end joist (due to an odd building dimension), nail a2 x 4 “scab” (a bloc) to the end joist to suppor the panel end ve. Seber 4. 2a tsa str naif ose ova a igure (Gee Figure 1). Then use a filler stip of scrap material as required, Remember that you can increase the panel end gaps slightly to gain length in a row, (Always ‘maintain a minimum 1/8inch spacing between panel ends) 2. Lay out the remaining rows up to the place where the joists ae lapped (usually OORING (DOUBLE FLOOR) at the center ofthe Noor area). To stagger the panel joins, start the second row with athalf panel (4x 4 fed, Leave appropriate spacing at the panel edges (berween the rows) and ends, Star the third row with @ full panel once again, and so on, Tim an ‘occasional panel end slighty if required, as you go down the row to heep end joints roughly centered over the joists. (Usually only one panel per row need be rimmed.) ‘3. Since floor joists ae generally lapped side-by-side over the interior girder, you will need to “step back” your panel layout somewhere near this point. Usually, house dimensions and joist overlap work out so thar a jin between rows of panels fills ‘over the joist lap area, Ifso, you have no problem. You will simply cut the fist panel cof the next row 1-1/2 inches shor to allow for the lap. If, in some unusual case, this Joint does not fall over the lap, i will be necessary t0 “scab” a2 x 4 on the side ofa {joist every 8 feet, co suppor the end of one ofthe panels (see Figure 1). In any case, begin the second half ofthe floor so that the panel joins are staggered as indicated above in Steps 1 and 2 EXAMPLE Some of the above points can be ‘lustrated by the example subfloor layout in Figure 2. Ifyou simply staned from comer A and laid the fist row of panels ‘with the recommended gap, you would probably need to trim the fourth panel (Panel B), since it would force the fifth one too far off centerne of joist. By figuring carefully, orby lying the ith and see panels in place and measuring, you can make just the right amount of cut on only ‘one panel in the row: [NOTE Some manafacoes ste panel for proper specing so tha pane ends wl remain ‘on jeist centetnes,In the example house, the fist row ‘could sta with a 4x 8foot panel, the second row with a4 x ‘oot panel, and the third with a4 x 8400 panel. Te joint between this row and the next then falls very neatly over the centerline ofthe girder “The ist panel in the next row (Panel C) would be 4 feet wide by 46-1/2 inches long (actully, cutting it 46-1/4 inches long wil facilitate end spacing in that row). This row of panels probably can be spaced so thatthe panel atthe other end of the row will be the only other one to be cut (Panel D), The fifth row wal stare with a 48x 94-1/4.inch panel Panel E). Probably the fourth panel in tha row will need to be ‘eut to achieve bearing for the fifth, and a scab may be required under the end of the last panel (Panel F), Theoretically, there ‘would be a 1-1/2.inch gap atthe far end of this row, due to the loss the near end from lapping joists, and tothe fact that this hhouse is length that is a multiple of 8 eet. This 1-1/2-inch space could be filled with the trim cut from Panel (or could be ignored since ic wil be covered by the wall place and wil not lave that plate seriously lacking in suppor). These small dimensional “tradeofs” can best be handled as they appeat, and few rules can be lid down for handling them, SUBFLOOR NAILING AND PLACEMENT = Nail panes in place as shown. Use 6d common nails for 15/32-inch panels or 84 for 19/32-inch or 23/32inch panes, Place nails 3/8 inch from edge of pane! and space 6 inches apart along the ourside perimeter of the house and along panel end butt joint over interior joists. Drive nails ata slight ange to penetrate Loot FIGURE 3 Joists, Space nails 12 mches apart when nailing into joists under panel interior. ‘With these spacings, 9 nals are required ‘across each end of each panel, 17 nail slong an 800% supported panel edge, and 5 nails along each interior joist Gee Figure 3). Drive subfloor nails accurately so chat ‘they all penetrate the joists. Nails that miss {ists or angle out the side ofjoiss, can ceause floor squeaks. [cis usually worth- ‘while to snap chalk lines on the panels showing joist locations to ensure that ails ae driven comecily, NOTE: Take special care where the ost lap at the de, since rows of nals must jog at that point. Where scabs are required cue to the oft sett the owepped ots over the de, wse 10d nals aach 2x4 sea to the side ofthe {eis to suppor the panel end ee Figure 1. “The scab should be ofsfcent length to provide full support othe panel endsINSTALL APA RATED STURD-I-FLOOR (SING APA RATED STURD-IFLOOR panels are designed specifically for residential single- floor applications, In other words, they serve as both subflooring and underlay- ‘ment under carpet and pad. When used with che APA Glued Floor System®, you can save time and money while increasing floor stiffness. The Glued Floor System produces @ bond so strong that floor andl Joists behave like integral beam unit, ‘When properly construcred, the systern also helps eliminate squeaks, bounce and nail popping. Use adhesives conforming to Performance Specification AFG-O1 and apply in accordance with the adhesive manufacturer's recommendations, APA RATED STURD-FFLOOR panels are identified by a Span Rating in the ABA. trademark indicating the maximum recom- ‘mended spacing of floor joists over which Leove 1/8 spacing al! Tonguevond-groove edge“ (Gr provide edge Bcckng) the panel should be placed, Panels are manufactured with Span Ratings of 16, 20, 24,32 oF 48 ocand in thicknesses ranging from 19/32 to 1-1/8 inch, Most STURD- FLOOR panels are manufactured with tongue-and:-groove edges that eliminate the need for blocking. Panels may also be ordered with square edges, All STURD-- FLOOR panels are moisture resistant, but if panels will be exposed permanently to the weather or moiscure, use Exterior panels. The following application steps perain 10 APA RATED STURD-HFLOOR 16, 20 and 24 oc the most commonly used grades for residential applications. For applications where wider spans are required, APA RATED STURD-L-FLOOR 32 oF 48 oc is recommended. There are two basic support spacing arrangements for STURD-LFLOOR 48 0¢ ~ 2x haber FLOOR) joists spaced 32 inches oc. and 4x girders spaced 48 inches 0. Panel layout and application for STURD-LFLOOR 48 oc is similar to that described below for conventionally framed floors. 11. Measure the area tobe covered and estimate hovw the frst row of panels will come out atthe other end ofthe floor Use the same plywood panel layout and ‘rimming plan described in Steps 1 and 2 for subllooring. Always place the long dimension of panels perpendicular tothe joists and across two or more spans between joiss. End joints of panels should be staggered between rows (see Figure 1) Starting from the outside edge of one header, snap chalk lines across joists every four fee wo serve as guides for panel alignment and for gluing boundaries. Blocking wth equore-odge panel2. Wipe any mud, dit or water from joists and apply a bead of glue to joists with a caulking gun, Spread only enough ghue to lay one or two panels at a time or fallow recommendations of gue manufacturer If square-edge panels are used, edges must be supported between joists with 2x 4 block- ing carefully installed, Nail the blocking between the joists al along the chalk tne Repeat at every chalk line. Glue panels ro blocking to minimize squeaks. (Blocking is not requited if structural finish flooring ora separate underiaymentis installed) ‘3. If tongue-and-groove panels are used, lay the frst panel wich tongue side to wall and nail in place with 64 deformed-shank nails spaced 12 inches at all supports (Bd common smooth nals can be used but are ‘more susceptible to “pop’). Apply @ con- ‘imuous line of gue ~ about 1/inch diameter to framing members. On wider areas, apply ue in a wavy pattem to get better coverage. Apply wo lines of gue on Joists where panel ends butt to assume proper gluing ofeach end 44. Glue and nal the rest ofthe fist 10%, allowing L/8-inch space between pane! ends, After the fist row of panels is in place, spread glue in groove of one or wo panels at atime before laying next row. lueline may be continuous or spaced, but should be half the size about 1/8 ‘nch) ofthe bead that goes onthe joist so slue won't squeeze oat when the next row ‘s applied 1B. Start second row with a half panel as shown in the subfloor section. Tap tongue- and-groove panels into place using a block to protect groove edges. eave 1/8 inch berween end and edge joints. You may want to fashion a spacing tool t0 position panels quickly and accurately. Finish second row; gluing and nailing each panel in place as you go. 6. Install remainder of the foor following the same steps, and altemating benween full and half panels to star succeeding, rows, Complete all nailing of each panel before glue sets. Check mamfacrarer’s recommendations for allowable time, You ‘ean walk on the deck immediatly since the gue bond doesnt have ro cure before itcan cary loads. Before laying the finish flooring fill and thoroughly sand joints between panels with hard, quick-seting filler Sernaisif green framing is used and sand off any rough spots around nail holes Do not fil ail holes.‘Wall framing is aterm that inchudes vertical studs and horizontal members (bottorn and top plates, window and door headers) of both exterior and interior walls that suppor the ceiling and roof, Wall framing lumber in conventional house construc- tion is generally of 2x 4 lumber with the exception of headers over windows and. suplate and subfloor for later reference.) Remove scalfold nals fom exterior wall bottom plates. Tip on edge and nail n place with 16d nails driven diagonally through the plate into panel subfloor (Gee Figure 3). Nailing the bortom plate to the subfloor will keep the completed wall section fom siding off the flor deck uring tl-up. Make sure the 16d nails are rot driven into the edge of the 2 x + where stud will be located or into a floor jis. ‘Move the top plate ofthe same wall parallel to the bottom plate astud-height distance apar. ©. Locate all fullheight studs and nal in Place by driving nails through the bottom and top plates into the ends ofthe studs, two 16d nails in each plate at each stud. (ou will add another top plat alte the wal is erected) Where special wall intersection framing s required, 2s at comers and where interior wall will join, nai it in place. Next, nail all eipples in place. Then cut and instal ll bottom and top headers. ‘7 Check the wal for squareness by ‘measuring the diagonals from comer to comer. When the wall is square, the two agonals will be exactly the same length You have several options on the next installation step. The easiest sto apply APA RATED SIDING direct to aming (APA Stare Wall® system) orto apply [APA RATED SHEATHING direct ro framing while framing is still lat on the floor (double-wall construction), See pages 22 and 24 for explanation of ot methods, Ifyou elect to-use Srord-LWall construction, remember to allow the siding to extend far enough beyond the top plate to cover the additional top plate chat is added after ttup. (See Figure 3 for amount to allow at bottom.) With either single or double wall, attach the 4 x loot sheets according to recommended nailing schedules. Applying panels before wall- raising ensures that wall squareness is ‘maintained during erection. '8. Belore tipping wall sections in place, cut sever 1 x4 0r 1x 6 diagonal braces 0 tat, once the wallis upright, these braces can be used to attach the wall framing temporarily to the subfloor, 10 prevent the wall from tipping over ee Figure 4). 9. Erect the wall sections, starting with the long walls, As you tl the sections into place, the diagonally driven 16d nails Gee Figure 3) will withdraw gradually from the floor Use 16d nails spaced! 16 inches 2.6 to secure the wall setions to the floor These mils should extend through the Alooring materials into the floor framing below. Then build and raise the shorter ‘end walls, Nal them to the flor and 0 the side walls a the comers. (Pages 22 and 24 explain leaving offend panels 0 ease raising and securing walls) Frame interior walls, Interior partons are lid out exactly like exterior walls except that no sheathing or sing is attached. Interior walls should be braced diagonally during rising and, where necessary, nailed to exterior walls a their FIGURE 4 inersection. When all walls are in place, apply a second layer of top plates through- ‘out, Make sure that but joints in the rwo layers ae offer, occur over wal studs, and that the double plates are property lapped, to tie togetner all intersection walls (Gee Figure 5), [NOTE: Wall stud spacing may be 24 inches 0. See pages 22 and 24 for panel recommendations and naling schedules doublet pteINSTALL APA STURD-I-WALL (SINGLE WALL) “The APA Srurc-LWall systern saves ime and money: Panel siding bearing the APA RATED SIDING 303 or APA RATED SIDING trademarks ~ available in a wide variery of textures and pattems — is applied direct to wall framing (see Fgure 1), ot cover nonstructural sheathing, thus eliminating the costs of material ancl labor for installing the structural sheathing required in conventional double-wal construction, Sturd-Wall construction mecis all requirements for sructural performance, asa combination siding and structural sheathing, APA trademarked siding comes in panels 3/8 to 3/4 inch thick and 4 by 8, 9, 0+ 10 Feet long. (Check your umber dealer for pane/-length availabilty in your area.) Normally, pane!s are installed vertically, swith the long dimension running parallel to the studs. However, they may be insalled horizontally. Allowable stud Bock veri bat ins with ulaing paper ne ‘Tees panel edges sh wate repaint Caulk forverie! eppeason spacing is marked on the APA trademark Con the back of siding panels, For example, APA RATED SIDING bearing a “24 oc” designation may be applied vertically 0 studs 16 or 24 inches 0. while panels rare “16 oc" may be applied vertically cover studs spaced no more than 16 inches apart. Texture 1-11 sing may be used vertically with studs 16 inches o.c. Any APA RATED SIDING panel may be used ‘on studs 24 inches o.¢. when applied with the long dimension horizontal, provided horizontal joints are blocked, No extra comer bracing is needed with pane siding Before applying APA siding, check your house plans to see ifthere are any special requirements. Pane thickness may be spec- iied, or windows may have to be atached to framing before siding is applied. The plans also may call out particukr but joint locations or give specific details fr joints around door openings, and atthe top edge Studs 16° 24°08, Shere sing Note leave 1/8" pace al panel Shor ond eae fine 8 ain. deren, ofthe panel. No building papers required ifjoints are shiplapped or are to be covered ‘with batens. Building paper is required for “unbattened square butt joints and for ggooved pane siding applied horizontally in single-vall construction. Panel the side walls fist, then the shorter end walls 1. See “Frame the wall,” Steps L through 7, for aming of tit-up walls; or erect 2x + stu walls in place 2. Cursing panels to proper length Gee Figure 2 for guide). In determining length, allow for -inch lap overtop of| foundation wal and 1-1/2 inches for covering the second top plate alter wall tileup. Seal edges of ll siding panes _prorro installation (sce page 34). '3._ Place the fst panel at one end ofthe ‘wall framing section, making sure che edge ofthe panel is flash with the outside edge of the comer stud Ne giogonal wal bracing or Dulin paper needed,tae TE rose thickness \ enh ve 44. Apply the panel o the wall framing Use hot-dip galvanized, aluminum, or other nonstaning nals to prevene staining ofthe siding fom nail weathering and rusting, Use 6d bax, siding, or casing nails for pane! siding 1/2 inch or less thick; use 8d rails for thicker panels. Drive nails every 6 inches along panel ends and eciges, every 12 inches a intermediate suppors. (See Figure 3 for naling shiplapped panels.) All ‘edges of panel siding must be backed by sold lumber framing or blocking, In addition to panel edge spacing and the use of stright stds, naling sequence can also be a factor in maintaining 2 uniformly fat appearance ofthe finshed ‘wall, Here's a way to install panel siding ‘without buil-in compression stress, First ‘position the siding panel, maintaining recommended edge spacing, and lightly tack at each comer Install he first row of nails next to the preceding panel from top to bottom. Remove remaining acking nails. Then nail the row atthe fist intermediate stud, Continue by naling at the second intermediate stud and, finally, atthe edge opposite the preceding panel ‘Complete the installation by fastening to the top and bottom plats, Vatseoce are [Noting i the same for pores of era Tenure 1-11 Ps ‘3. Apply additional panes in the same manner described in Step 4, to finish wall coverage. Remember to leave a L/Binch space between all ends and edges of panels, This spacing is necessary to ensure that panels will sty Nat under all weather conditions. Ti che side wall nto position and fasten it through the subfloor tothe sill plate and rim joist 7. When both se walls ae completed and in place, apply siding co shorter end walls. Place one panel atthe end of each wall and temporarily ack ic into positon. Allow for overlap of sidewall framing and siding See Figure + for help in Siguring the overlap (normally about 3-1/2 inches plus panel thickness), Its usually easier to use ‘comer trim pieces than to ty to trim edges to perfect it, Permanently fasten all remaining pals to wall framing; do not apply pane! ac the other end of the wall Remove temporarily fastened pane! from wall, The open framing at either end of the walls facitates tle-up and attachment 10 side walls (Gee Figure 4) Tike walls into postion and nail :o side walls at comers with 16d nails Apply come sing pane's to complete siding application, (9 Caulk joins as required. No caulkingis ‘equited for shiplapped joints or for joints backed by buiing paper Caulk but joints at all inside and outside wall comers, using any ofthe various high-performance bury polyurethane or thiokol caus, In some cases, foam rod or other ype of iller ‘material may be used behind the sealant Always follow the sealant manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. Where ‘her hickneszes ond groove whe) louRE 3 siding is applied with face grain across studs teat panel edges with water repel lent. Use building paper for grooved panel siding applied horoncaly, and for ‘ungrooved panels when vertical but joints are not covered with battens. Caulk around doors and windows )-- Apply battens and trim scrips as desired for appearance, oF as showin on plans, Lap comer trim stip over siding joint as shown in Figure 4, so that there is no continuous joint through comer trim and siding. Where siding is applied with face grain across the stud, apply battens to conceal the vertical bur joints ‘at panel ends. Block behing! horizontal joint, Nails through battens must penetrate the studs atleast 1 inch Corner (opin) eee oc ce Final positon of ene (ios be oppied ‘her ting vp wal) FIGURE 4 alINSTALL SIDING OVER SHEATHING (DOUBLE Conventional exeror wal covering consists of structural sheathing ‘material overlaid with siding, APA trade ‘marked panels for both purposes provide strength and stiliness, durability, and distinctive appearance, [APA RATED SHEATHING 24/0 ts recommended over studs spaced up t0 24 inches o.c, Sheathing may be applied vertically or horizontally. Be sure to check local building regulations to see if horizontal joints must be blocked. Apply sheathing 0 ri-up side walls frst and erect them; then sheath shorter ‘end wals. Before applying sheathing, check your house plans for possible special wove 1/8" space ot al Check acl bulling codes for SQ] snuese I ponels used for wel bracing il requirements. The plans may also call out special deals at door openings, wall comers, and atthe top edge ofthe panel SHEATHING INSTALLATION 1. See "Frame the walls” Steps 1 hough 7, for kaming of ttsup walls; or erect 2x 4 stud walls in place. 22. For vertical application, positon the first sheathing panel at one end of the wall framing section, Make sure the edge ofthe panels fish with the outside edge ofthe ‘comer stud, Allow the sheathing to overlap the top place by 1-1/2 inches so thatthe panel will cover the second top plate when Sheathing filer sp, For erro shooting required settsse, opp ih ong Simension of ponel DSerpenciaiorta sede. Sheathing eppied verbal to stds FIGURE 1 ‘ppled over sheathing WALL) installed after the wal is erected, Since ‘most floor-to-ceiling heights are 7 feet, 6 inches to 7 feet, 9 inches, the sheathing will also overlap the bottom plate. Do not ‘tim. If sheathing is applied with face grain across the studs, be sure to make the same ‘overlap allowances over the bottom plat. {B. Nai the sheathing tothe wall frame. ‘Use 6d box or common nals, spacing them 6 inches 0. at panel edges and 12 inches o.¢. over intermediate stud “4. Apply the rest ofthe APA trademarked sheathing tothe wall section to finish coverage, Remember to leave a /8:nch space berween all panel ends and edges. No building poper o diagonal ‘wail bracing requred with 12PA Rated Sing ver sheeting{8. Tithe wall imo position and fasten the bottom plate to the floor framing with 16d nails. Fasten the overlapped sheathing to the rim joist with 6d nails a 6 inches 0, (6. When both sie walls are completed and in place, apply sheathing to shorter end walls, Place one pane! at end of wall faming and temporanly tack into place. Allow for overlap of sce wall faming and sheathing (Gee Figure 3). Overlap wil be about 3-1/2 inches pls the sheathing thickness Final postion of ene ‘haothing pone! on end well (vast be opated ofa Ming up wall) ‘Side Wil Saree ploon oF buling Permanently fasten all remaining panels to wal framing; do not apply fst panel a ‘other end of wal. Remove temporarily fastened panel from wal. The open framing at ether end of the walls allows the encl-wall panels tobe tted up past the side walls 17. Tik walls into postion and nail side walls ac comers with 16d nails, Atach bottom plate and sheathing to floor fiaming asin Step 5. Apply comer panels to complete sheathing installation 8. Add a sheathing filler stip, ifnecessary, ‘below the sheathing to help te the floor ro the sil (Gee Figure 1). Nall this filer 6 inches 0. to both tim joist and sil SIDING INSTALLATION Apply panel sing to sheathed walls (Gee Figure 2). APA RATED SIDING ~ 16 0c, Texture 1-11, 303-16 oe sidings, and other Exterior panels under 7/16 inch thick may be applied with face grain parallel to studs 24 inches 0.¢. when vertical rows of nails are spaced 16 inches 0. and nailing into APA RATED SHEATHING, Use hot dipped galvanized, aluminum or other nonstaining nail 1o prevent stating of the siing from nail weathering and rusting, Use 6d box, siding, or casing ails for panel siding 1/2 inch or less thick; use 8d nals for thicker panel, Drive nails every 6 inches along panel ends and edges, every 12 inches at panel interior suppons. Nails through battens must penetrate studs a least 1 inch or be driven through the sheathing ifthe joint does not occur over a stud. V0. Leave L/B.inch space between all ends and edges of siding panes. Va. Caulk square-edged siding bute Joints with any of the various high- performance butyl, polyurethane or thiokol ‘caulk. In some cass, a foam rod or other type filler material may be used behind the sealant, Always follow sealant mamufac- turer's recommendations. No caulking is needed for shiplapped joints ofr joints covered by battensAfter exterior and interior wall are erected, plumbed for staighmess, braced, and ted together with the second top plates. ceiling framing can be installed. Basic construction ‘of ceiling framing is similar to that of Noors, except that rim joists are not included, Ceiling framing does three things. I tes together opposite walls and root rafters to resis che ourward pressure imposed on ‘the walls fom the pitched roof (t supports the finished eling. And it supports either a second story, or in this example, an attic storage area Main framing members are called joists and, like floor framing, their size is deter mined by spacing and length of span, (Check your house plans for comect size and spacing, and your local building codes for agreement. Ceiling framing is generally of 2x lumber N FRAME THE CEILING You will want to instal your ceiling framing before your roof rafters, to give you «working platform for building the roof You should lay out both ceiling framing and roo rafters atthe same time, howevey, since the ceiling joists must lap the roof rafters, and be securely nailed to them, Follow your house plans for location of ‘members. Ibis much easier to space ceiling joists at the same spacing as roof rafters, and that is the method shown here. With panel sheathing and siding, and with doubled top plates, celing ois and roof rafters need not line up over the wall studs. In fact, wall studs ate often placed at 16 inches o.¢, whereas roof rafters and ceiling joists can be placed at 24 inches 0. If the load-bearing interior walls not continuous, a beam will be needed © cary the inside ends of the ceiling joists Ceiling eit FIGURE 1 Notch in ‘pale end sad End roe Check your house plans to determine ‘ype, placement, and size of beam neces: sary to support the load. The beam may be below the ceiling joists, atthe same level as, the joists, or may even be above them. Ifit fs at the same level, or above them, it must suppor he joists with metal hangers 11. Lay out the postion of the ceiling joists and roof rafters in approximately che same ‘manner as was done for floor joists. ‘marking location of each joist and each rafter on both outside plates and the interior bearing wal. Note at this point that the two roof rafters on opposite sds ofthe Thouse wil frame opposite each other atthe center, ut thatthe celing joists will ap these rafter, The easiest method for making everything line up is use filler blocks over the interior bearing partion, as shown in Figure 1. Then the ro ceiling joists “meeting” over the center partion can be placed one on each side ofthe roof rafter, with the filler block occupying the space of the roof rafer atthe center joint Gable end sad ole for ar L end enti Cetin. ‘oe 2 hut ‘Nad block a (pica) FIGURE 32. Begin installing ceiling joists. Because the end rafer wil be placed wath its ‘ourside face fush with the outside ofthe wall, the celing joist at the end of the house will not lapis rafter Gee Figures 2 and 3) For this reason, itis easier vo place the end joist after the gable endl has been framed, Place your fist ceiling joist to lap the fist interior roo rater, which will have its centertine 24 inches in from the face of the end wall, Succeeding joists (and rafters) are spaced 24 inches 0. ‘3. Trim comers of ceiling joists at outer walls where they must match the rafter slope. Cour house plan will ell you the for walt slope. Ifonly a small amount must be removed, you may saw it of after rafters are in place 4. Cut celing jose to proper length with the outer end flush with the outside of the wall and allowing fora east 24-inch ‘overlap at the center 1B. Inscall ceiling joists and toenail to che top plate ofthe exterior walls with two 10d nails on each side. Ar the center lap, nal the joists to the filler block, and then toenail co the plate of the load-bearing wall orbeam (se Figure 4). Since the ceiling raliers are supplying the te across the building, dhey mast be well spiked. Fora Colt it 2+-foot wide building, with ceiling joists and roof rafters both at 24inch spacings, four 16¢ nals are required from each ceiling joist into che filler block. Tie together ceiling joists and the nonbearing walls that run parallel to them, asin Figure 5. As with floor framing, place ceiling joists with the own up. (6. Ci and frame attic access in the same manner as openings in the floor. Fire regulations and building codes usually Hist ‘minimum size requirements, and your hhouse plans show locations. Ifthe opening ‘s smal (- to 3oot square), doubling of the headers and joists is not necessary, Bocking block sling it Std or walinoordRoof framing isthe combination of rafters, ridge board, collar beams, and cripple studs. In gable roof construction, al raters ae precut tothe same length and pattern ach pair of rafters is fastened atthe top 0 ridge board, commonly a2x 8 or 2x 6, which provides support and a nailing area for rafter ends. Rafter location should be laid out ‘when ceiling joist ae laid out to estab lish the proper relationship between rafters and joists 11. Tf nor already done, mark ater locations on the top plate of side walls. The first rafter pair wl be fash with the outside edge of the end wall. Space the first interior rafter at 24 inches measured from the end ‘ofthe building tothe center ofthe rafter All succeeding rales locations are measured 24 inches center to center. They will be at the sides of celing joist ends. 2. Next, mark afer locations on the Fidge board, allowing for specified gable ‘overhang, To achiewe required toral length of ridge board, you may have ro splice it (Gee Figure 1). Do not splice it yet however, because its easier to erect in shorter sections. FIGURE 1 3. Check your house plan for toof slope Gee Figure 2). For example, + inches of rise in 12 inches of run is common, and is usually considered minimum for asphalt or ‘wood shingles, ‘Draw a rafter pattem fll-sze on the floor of the house, showing actual slope From this drawing, length ofrafers including overhang, angle of cut a ridge and overhang, and location of notched seat FRAME THE ROOF cat ( ft on wall top plate) can be determined, Remember to include the ‘width ofthe ridge board in the drawing so that rafter length will be accurate 8. Lay out one pair of rafters, marking, top and bottom angles and seat cut Jocation, Make the cus, and check ft by serting them up at flor level. Once a good fics achieved, mark this set of rafters for ‘identificarion and use it sa pattem for the remainder 6. Corremaining rafters. Fora 48-foot house with rafters spaced 24 inches o.., you will need 24 more pairs cut to the pattem (25 total pair). In addition, you ‘wll need two pais of fascia rales forthe ends of the gable overhang (see Figure 4), Since they cover the end of the ridge oar, they must be longer than the pattem rafers by half the width of the ridge board, Fascia rafters will have the same cuts at the top and bortom as che regular rafters, but they vill not have a seat cut Gersing carted with erection ofthe roof framing is the most complicated part of framing a house. Plan it carefully, making sure you have all materials on han and all steps in mind before you begin. tis best to make a “dry run” at ground level Erection procedure will be much easier if you have at least two helpers. consider- ble amount of temporary bracing will be required ifthe job must be done with only ‘one or two workers, 17. Build temporary props of x 4s to hold the rafters and ridge board in place during roof framing installation, The props should be long enough to rach from the top plate tothe bottom of the ridge board, and should be fited witha plywood gusset ax the bottom; when installed, the plywood gussets nailed temporarily to che top plate or toa celing joist. The props are also diagonally braced from about midpoint in both directions to maintain true vertical (check with a plumb bob). Gee Figure 3) 8. Move ridge board sections and raters onto the ceiling framing. (Lay panels over the celng joists for safer footing) First eect the ridge board and the raters nearest its ends, as shown in Figure 3. the ridge ofthe house is longer than the individual pieces of ridge board, you'l find iteasir to erect each piece separately, rather than spicing the ridge bard full length fst. Suppor the ridge board at both ends with the temporary props. “Toenail the fist rafter pair securely tothe ridge board using at east two 8 nails on cach side, then nail at wall. Insal other end rafter pair the same manner9. Make the ridge board joints, using plywood gussets on each side ofthe joint and nating them securaly to the ridge boar. Check the ridge board for level, Also check for straightness over the centerline ofthe house, ter full length ofthe ridge board is |, put up the remaining rafters in pais, naling them securely n place. Check occasionally to make sure ridge board remains straight. fll afters are cut and assembled accurately the roof showle be sltalgning 2. Tena the rer to he wall plate with 10¢ nas, using a east wo per side. Also nal the ceiling joss to the raters. For a 240ot wide house, you will ned four 16d nas at each lap. In high wind areas, 15 agood idea to add metastp fasteners forexta uplift resistance 13. Cutand insall 1 x 6 collar beams at every other pair of raters (4 eet oc). ee Figure 4) Nail each end with four 8d nal Collar beams should bein the upper third col the ate space. Remove temperary props. Saqarea line across the end wall pte directly below the ridge board. Ifa vent isto be installed, measure half ts Outiager Foscio voter ‘width on each side of the center mark for Tocation ofthe first stud on each side Mark positions for remaining studs at 16 inches o.c., then measure and cut studs. Notch the top end to fit under the rafter so thatthe stud bottom willbe flash with the top plare. Cut cripple studs and bheaders to frame in the vent opening, (see Figure 2). 13. Cut and install fascia board to correct length of ridge board. Bevel the top edge to roof slope. Nail the board to rafter ends, then instal fascia raf rafters cover the end of the ridge board. (sce Figure 4), Where nails will be exposed toweather use hot-dipped galvanized or other nonstaining nails NOTE: Readymade lightweight wood roof trusses may be avalile ae bulding supply dealers in lengghs from 20 0 32 leet oF more, Because they wil span from one exterce wall 0 ‘he other with no interior bearing walls equied, they allow grace Healy in planning interior room anaigement. Trusses are most adaptable vo houses with rectangular plans wiere the constant width requires only ‘one ype of is,INSTALL ROOF SHEATHING Roof sheathing, the covering over rafters ot twusses, provides structural stength and. rigidity and makes a solid base for fastening the roofing material. APA RATED SHEATHING is marked with a Span Rating, which tells you the recommended rafter spacing for the pane thickness. For the example house, wich 24-inch spans (distance between raters), panels with a rmatking of 24/0 are adequate. Sheathing panels with this Span Rating ae available in 3, 7/16, 15/32- and 1/2-inch thickeesses, Your house plan will show either “open solfts” Gee Figure 1) or “closed or boxed soffit” Gee Figure 2) you have closed soffit al of your rof sheathing can be [APA RATED SHEATHING EXP 1. With APA Rated Shoothing — Shim ot wach oar for —_ ‘a joint at change of ny oppropice gre oF APA Eaoror, or Exposure 1 panels of ‘desired oppeoronce and adequate ‘elves 10 cary design root oad ‘open softs, all panels ro be exposed at the overhang, either along the side orat the end ofthe tof, must be marked Exterior cor Exposure 1 and of appropriate grade to ‘permit painting or staining to blend well vwith the rest of the house. Many of the textured-inish plywoods of 1/2inch and 5/8-inch thicknesses can be used with the textured side down to provide atractive open softs ‘With either open or boxed soffs, you will needa roof sheathing layout 1. Draw your layout, It may be a freehand sketch, but should be relatively close to scale. The easiest method is 0 draw a simple rectangle representing half ofthe roof The long side will represent the length of the ridge board. Male the shore tte edges of Eons one Laove 1/8 space ota td and edge font SFespouad ponte. Scope mol edges. side equal to the length of your rales, including overhangs. Ifyou have open sols, draw a second line (possibly ddoted) inside the ends and bottom, to show the area that must be covered by Exterior or Exposure 1 panels. Remember that this is only half ofthe roof, and that any cutting of panels on this side can be planned so thatthe cut off potions will be Useful on the other If your eave overhang is less than 2 feet, and you have an open soft, you may wish to start with a pane of haf he normal width, Otherwise, you will probably sta with a full 4x 8-oot section of sheathing atthe bottom of the roof and work upward toward the ridge, where you may have to cut the last row of panels Stagger panels in succeeding rows ‘APA Rated Sheothing ~ (rode ot APA esteroe onl or sf FIGURE 2 (CLOSED OR BOXED SOFFIT)22. Complete your layout forthe whole ‘oot The layout shows panel size and place: tment as wel s sheathing panel quantities needed (ee Figure 3). Ifyour diagram. should show that you will have excessive ‘vaste in cuting, you may be able to educe scrap by slightly shortening the rafter overhang at the eave, or the gable overhang. ‘As shown in Figure 3, for the example sous, neatly half ofthe panels ae “soit” panels, For such a case, rather than shimming to Jevel up soft and interior Sheathing panels (asin Step 7), you may ‘Nant to use interior sheathing panels ofthe same thickness as your soft panels, even though they might then be alitde thicker than the minimum require. ‘3. Cut panels as required, maskeng ‘cutting lines first to ensure square comers. Begin panel placement at any comer of the oot Ifyou are using special soft panels, remember to place ther best or textured side down. Fasten each panel in the fst course (ow), n tum, tothe rof framing using 8d common smooth, ring shank, or spiral thread nails. Space nails 6 inches 0 along panel ends and 12 inches o.. at intermediate support. Roof length including ovechong engi of ridge Boord 3) 6. Leave 1/8inch space at panel end and edge joints 1. Apply the second course, using a soft halépane! in frst (overhang) position. If the main sheathing panels are thinner than the soft sheathing, install small shims to cease the joint ransiton (see Figure ‘8. Apply remaining courses as above. NOTE: Ifyour plans show closed softs, the roof sheathing wil be all the same grade and thickness. For applying panels to the underside of closed softs, use nonstaining ype nals _ =a ave 0 ridge tone (eran of 7 roher 172) 1 = ++ Ridge Eo toridoe [Fer “open soft” oll panae marked ‘wth e must be Exeroe ar Exposure 7.)On any construction job, the cost of nas used isso smal, compared with thee importance, that they should lays be of the best quality Sizes ength) are indicated by “penny” abbreviated as “d” (asin 84). Length of al nas wal be the same ina particular penny siz, regardless of head or shank configuration. Only che ameter changes. For siding applications use nonstaining siding or casing nails to prevent discoloration due to ral weathering or rusting, OMMON AND BOX NAILS ‘Common and box nails are for normal building construction, paniculaly framing, ‘Smooth box nals of the same penny size will have a smaller diamecer than common nals, Since this smaller diameter as less tendency to split the lumber, they are recommended for most uses. A pound Yields more box nails than common nails as shown in the table below, commen and bex nal 16d for genera raring ‘8d and 10d for toenailing, {6d and Bal for subfloor, wal sheathing and roof sheathing Size used depends on thickness of panel sheathing, SCAFFOLD NAILS Scaffold or “double-headed” nals can save 1e and trouble in many operations where the fastener must aver NAIL TYPES AND SIZES removed ~ asin scaffolding, bracing, conerer forms, and temporary fastening ring framing layout Scaffold nail: —_—_—_—_— 8d and 10d are most common for scaffolds, bracing, and any temporary fastening that must be later removed. CASING AND FINISH NAILS These ae for use when visible naheads are not desirable, such as in interior and exerior trim naling, interior paneling installation, and exeror siding application To further reduce vil, both may be driven deeper into the material with a nai set and the holes filed with wood filer of matching color Cosing and finieh neil —— Covi re Firsh 444, 64, and 8d are most common for exterior and interior trim and paneling, where lage nailheads should not show. Use casing nails for exterior siding. NONSTAINING NAILS For long service and freedom from staining, use nonstaining nals. They are necessary where exterior exposure i combined with need for good appearance; for example, in siding, fascias, softs, exterior wim, and wood decks. Hot-dipped cor hot-umbled galvanizing is the most ‘common nail coating, and offers good protection against staining. Nails also are Siding nails: —_—_—_—_—_—_——_— made of metals or alloys not subject to comosion, including aluminum, bronze, and stainless steel, Nonsaining nails are specilied fr siing thickmess by size (usually 6d and 8), DEFORMED-SHANK NAILS A variety of deformed shank pattems such as screwshank, ing shank, and barbed ae available. These all have greater holding power than smooth nails. Often a smaller size delormedshank nail may be substi tuted and stil do che ob saisfatonly Ring-shank nails should always be used for installation of panel underlayment or subfloorAunderayment NAIL SIZE AND NUMBER PER POUND Leno Box Size tie) 4s 12 102 36 oss 473 56 1.3/4 102 2 083 406 be 2 15 18 102 236 7a 204 13 161 102 210 rs) 22 13 106 u5 vs tod 3 148 69 127 94 12d ave 148 63 127 88 16d 312 165 “ 134 n 204 4 203 a 148 52 304 ann 220 24 148 46 40d 5 238 18 165 35For underlayment and finish floor: use 4d ring shanks, For harciwood stip fe, flooring use ether 8d hardwood nails or 2-inch hardened, spiral-chreaded nails, [reer Roofing nel ings hickness; for L/2inch drywall use Special nail rypes are available, For 4d drywall nails, 3/Binch UNDERLAYMENT over panel subfloor, use 3d ring-shanks; for 19/32.inch UNDERLAYMENT or A special ype, commonly avalabe, Size STURD-LFLOOR over panel subfloor depends on thickness of roofing material any (dl) Sts 2d 3d ad bd Length we aeFINISHING EXTERIOR SIDING ‘The primary easons for rising APA Rated Siding ae to protect it from weathering and to maintain its appearance. Weathering erodes and roughens unfinished wood. Since diferent finishes give varying degrees of protection, fnish type, quality, quantity and method of application must be considered in planning ajob. Before finishing, all panels should be edge sealed to reduce possible damage from moisture absorption. A liberal application of a good waterrepellent preservative compatible with the final finish should be used for edge sealing if stain is to be used on the siding face. Ifthe siding is to be painted, the same exterior house paint primer that will be used on the face can be used, ‘Three pigmented finishing systems are availabe for use on plywood siding ~ semitransparent stains, olid-color stains and acrylic latex paint with companion primer formulated for wood. The table on page 35 summarizes APA finishing recom- ‘mendations for each of the 13 APA 303 Series plywood siding face grades. The face _gades are based on panel appearance characteristics and the allowable number and type of repairs (wood or synthetic) that can be made during manufacture. Depending on species, type of repai, finishing, ec, premium products may be found inal grads. Semitransparent stains emphasize the ‘wood!’s narual characteristics, They provide maximum grain show-through, but exhibit color eiferences in the wood itself or benween the wood and any repairs Only oikbased semitransparent stains are recommended, Semitransparent stains are particularly well-suited for use on 303-OC (lear, no patches), 303-NR (natural rustic, no patches) and 303-6:W (up to six wood patches). Semitransparent stains are not recommended for 303-OL (overtaid plywood, such as MDO).STAINS. 303 Series Plywood Siding Grades “oc -oL 303 “Ne 303-65 “6-5 Tew 303 -18-s aes “30-W 303-205, 30.5 Exceat for overaid pone, use @stin-resistant primer with lght-olored latex stains, since the wood extractives may eauze discoloration ofthe fnsh, Recommended with provisions gion i text, Should not be finished with semransporon’ ston unless specfcally recommended by the panel manufoctrer. Some panel monufedurers recommend only crc latex formulations. Conauh the marvkacturers recommendations ‘Only ocr latex formulations are recommended wher ackd-cniar stains or paint syseme ore applied over open vousSolid-color stains are highly. pigmented, opaque stains thar cover the ‘wood’ natural color but allow its texture to show through. Either oil-based or lacex emulsion solid-color stains may be used but a stain-blocking primer should be used under light-colored latex stains in order 10 ‘prevent discolorations caused by the natural water soluble extractives in some woods (eg, redwood, cedar, Douglas), Solid-color stains are particularly recom mended for grades 303-6S and 303-6-SAN, as well a for 303-18 and 303-30 with any type of patch. Solid-color stains may be used on 303-OL, although some siding manufacturers recommend only acrylic latex formulations. Consult the rmanufacrurer's recommendations, A top-quality acrylic latex exterior house paint and companion primer formulated for wood may be used on any of the 303 Siding face grades. The primer and paint should be formulated to be used. together. Two topcoats will significantly improve the durabilsy and performance of the finish, Thick low-gloss finishes such as shale and shingle stains or paints should never be used on plywood since they fail prematurely and make refinishing dificult The method of applying stains and paints i as important as the finish ise The fst sep is making sure the surface to be Gnished is clan. A stiff non-metallic bristle brush wll remove dire and loose wood fibers. Brash-applcaion ofthe finish generally provides best performance since it works the finish into the wood surface and gives a ‘uniform appearance. When airless spraying, apply the finish liberally, then back brush or back-ol while iis sil wer, since spraying alone does not work the finish imo a textured surface. Long-napped rollers ‘may also be used, but itis important to apply the proper amount of finish and work it wel into the wood surface. During hhoc weather or when the siding is very dry, dampening the plywood before applying latex nishes will help prevent too rapid drying and improve perfomance For complete information on APA Perfor: ‘mance Rated Siding, including surface pat tems, textures, face grades and finishing recommendations, see APA Product Guide: Porformance Rated Sidings, E300.‘APA ~ The Engineered Wood Association A trade association representing most of the nation’s manufacturers of construction and industrial panels. The Assocation has three main jobs: research to improve panel performance and products: quality inspection to assure prodtct quality; and promotion of panel products and systems. Batten A thin, namtow piece of board used to cover vertical joints of plywood siding. Batter Board A temporary framework used to assist in locating comers when laying out a foundation, Blocking ‘Small wood pieces used berween structural members to support panel edges Bottom Plate (sole plate) The lowest horizontal member of a wall or pattition which rests on the subflooring, ‘Wall studs are nailed to the bortom plate Chalk Line (snap line) ‘Along spool-wound cord encased in a container filed with chalk. Challecovered string is polled from the cas, pulled taut across a surface, fed, and snapped directly downward so that it leaves 2 long saight chalk mark Fossa oer Top plate (doubled Ctiopes < — Header “ Stud wile) — Bonom plate GLossary Collar Beam horizontal te beam in a gable roof, connecting two opposite raters at a point considerably above the wall plate Course A continuous level row of construction tnits, as a layer of foundation block, shingles, or panels, as in subfloosing or roof sheathing. Cripple Any par ofa frame which is cut less than full length, as in cripple studs under a window opening, a The abbreviation for “penny” designating nail, are 8 penny nails, 2-1/2 inches long, e: for example 8d nails Dimension Lumber Lumber 210 5 inches thick and up to 12 inches wide. Inches joists, ater studs, planks, girders, and poss. Doubling “To use two ike aming members nailed together such as studs or joists, to ade strength to a building Ridge booed Anchor bots Be ~ sie Hl Fascia Horizontal board that is used sa acing Fascia Rafter End rafers atthe end of the rake. Footing The concrete (usual) base foundation for wall, posts, chimneys, ete. The foting is wider than the member it suppons, and distributes the weight 1 the ground over a lager ara to prevent setling Gable The wiangula portion ofthe end wall of a house with a pitched roof Glued Laminated Timbers (Glulam) structural member consisting ofa ‘numberof umber laminations selected, prepared and structurally bonded together inva qualifed lawinaing plan. Gusset smal piece of wood, plywood, or metal attached to comers or intersections of a frame to add stifiness and strength, Header (One or more pieces of framing lumber ‘used around openings to support free ends cof floor jst, studs, or rafters Collar beom Root raters Corer pot (usuallyInline Joint ‘Acconnection made by butting nwo pieces of lumber, such as foor joist, end to end and fastening them together using an additional splice piece nailed on both sides of the joint Joist ‘One ofa series of parallel framing members used to support loor or ceiling loads, and suppored in tum by lager beams, giders ‘or bearing walls. or foundation Kiln Dried ‘Wood seasoned in a humidity-and temperature-controlled oven to minimize shrinkage and warping, Lap Joint ‘A connection made by placing two pieces cof material side by side and fastening them by naling, gluing, ec. (On center A method of indicating the spacing of framing members by tating the ‘measurement from the center of one ‘member tothe center of the next. Outrigger A piece of dimension lumber which ‘extends out over the rake to support the fascia rafter (romlond beorng) — Canter beoring wall ond ‘cutide ood. bearing wel) Pane bearing ——— Plumb Bob A weight attached toa line for testing perpendicular surfaces for trueness, Rafter One ofa series of structural members of roof, designed to support roof loads. Rake The overhanging part ofa rool ata sable end. Ridge Board Central framing member a the peak, or ‘ge of a roof. The roof rafters fame into it from each side Rim Joist (ribbon or band jis) The horizontal lumber member that is butted against ends of oor joists around the outside of the house to add support ‘wand tie joists together Setback Placing of a building a specied distance from street or propery lies to comply with building codes and restrictions Sheathing “The structural covering onthe ouside surface of wall or roof framing, Siding “The finish covering on the outside walls of frame buildings Sill mudi, sill plate) The lowest framing member of structure, resting on the foundation and supporting the floor system and the uprights ofthe frame. Soltic Underside ofa roof overhang, Span The distance between supports of a structural member Seuds (wall Vertical members (usually 2x 4'9) making up the main framing ofa wall Subflooring Bottom panel ina two-layer floor ‘Top Plate The uppermost horizontal member nailed to the wall or partition studs. Top plae is usually doubled with end joints oft. Underlayment “op pane! in a two-layer floor Provides a smooth base for carpet, tile, or sheet loosing, Panel ropt sheathingABOUT APA APA ~ The Engineered Wood Association isa ‘nonprofit trade association whose member mills produce approximately 75 percent of the structural wood panel products ‘manufactured in North America. The APA trademark appears only on products manufactured by APA member rill and isthe manufacturer’ assurance that the product conforms to the standard shown on the trademark. Thar standard may be Voluntary Product Sandard PS 1.95 for Construction and Industrial Plywood; Voluntary Produer Standard PS 2.92, Performance Standard for Woed- Based Structura-se Panels; or an APA Performance Standard. APA's services go far beyond ality testing and inspection, Research and promotion programs play important roles in developing and improving plywood and other panel construction systems, and in helping users and specifiers to beter understand and apply panel products, AND AMERICAN WOOD SYSTEMS Always insist on panels bearing the mark of quality -the APA trademark. Your APA panel purchase isnot only your highest possible assurance of product

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