Basic DSLR Photography Course

Amrut Atre Photography

Instagram - @amrutatre.photography

Blog - amrutphotos.blogspot.in

Facebook Page - www.facebook.com/amrutatre.photos

Contact – amrut.atre@gmail.com

Mobile – 9970713808 / 9405689359

 DSLR Camera Introduction and Working

What is a DSLR camera?

A Single Lens Reflex camera typically uses a mirror and prism system (hence
"reflex" from the mirror's reflection) that permits the photographer to view
through the lens and see exactly what will be captured. In early days, SLR
cameras used photo film to capture images. A DSLR or Diigital Single Lens
Reflex camera uses an imaging sensor and a memory card to capture
images.

How your DSLR works –

 DSLR Interface

1. Canon DSLR –

A Typical Canon DSLR interface looks like this –

 DSLR Interface

Canon Interface explained –

 DSLR Interface

2. Nikon DSLR –

A typical Nikon DSLR Interface looks like this –

 DSLR Interface

Nikon Interface explained –

 Aperture

Aperture –

 Aperture refers to the adjustable opening of a lens's diaphragm

through which light passes. It controls the amount of light entering the
camera.

 A series of metal diaphragms close down as the shutter release button

is pressed.

 The size of aperture is denoted as f/number

 The aperture used also determines the Depth of Field.

Depth of field –

 Aperture also controls how much of a photo is in sharp focus. This

zone of focus is called ‘depth of field’.

 Depth of field depends on –

1. The Aperture used – The smaller the aperture, the bigger the depth of
field. For example, f/5.6 will have small or narrow depth of field than f/11.

2. Focal length of the lens – The shorter the focal length, the greater the
depth of field. So wide angle lenses (focal length less than 35mm) have a
greater depth of field than telephoto lenses (focal length more than 85mm).
So portrait photographers use telephoto lenses and landscape photographers
use wide angle lenses.

3. Subject to camera distance – The smaller the distance between the

camera and the subject, the smaller the depth of field.
Greater or larger depth of field is also called as ‘wide depth of field’ and
smaller depth of field is also called as ‘narrow/shallow depth of field’.
 Shutter Speed

Shutter speed –
 Shutter speed is the time for which the camera shutter stays open to
let light enter from the lens onto the sensor.

 It is measured in seconds or fraction of a second. Most cameras allow

shutter speeds from as fast as 1/2000 sec to as slow as 30 seconds.

 A fast shutter speed can freeze the motion or action of the subject. A
slow shutter speed can create a sense of motion by blurring the
moving subject.

 A fast shutter speed like 1/400 second lets in less light and a slow
shutter speed like 2 seconds lets in more light.
 ISO

ISO –
 ISO is the sensitivity of the camera sensor to available light.

 Lower ISO – Less sensitive to light

 Every camera has a Base ISO (lowest possible). It produces the

highest quality image.

 Typical ISO values – 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200 upto 12800 or
even higher

 Higher the ISO, higher the noise in the image. Noise is the grainy
spots in the image.
 Photographic Exposure

 Photographic exposure is the amount of light allowed to fall on the

image sensor.

 The amount of light allowed to fall on the sensor depends on the

aperture and the shutter speed.

 All modern DSLR cameras have a built in light meter that measures
the light in the scene and determines the optimum exposure.

 Highlights – Highlights are the areas in an image that are very bright
or “blown-out” such that there is no detail in that area. Editing
softwares can’t reverse this loss of detail.
 Shadows/Blacks – This is the area in an image that are very dark and
contain no details. Editing softwares can recover some of the lost
details from shadows.

 All DSLRs have a ‘Highlight warning’ setting which shows the blown-
out areas in red color. All editing softwares have this warning, red for
highlights and blue for shadows.
 Exposure Triangle

The three variables that determine the exposure of a photograph: Aperture,

Shutter speed and ISO.

1. ISO – the sensitivity of the image sensor to light

2. Aperture – the size of the opening in the lens when a picture is taken

3. Shutter speed – the amount of time that the shutter is open

The exposure of the final image is a result of these three elements and a
change in one of them impacts the other two.
 Understanding the Exposure Triangle

Imagine your camera is like a window with shutters that open and close.
Imagine that the size of the window is changeable.

 Aperture is the size of the window. If it’s bigger (f/2) more light gets
through and the room is brighter. If it’s smaller (f/16) less light comes
in and the room is darker.

 Shutter Speed is the amount of time that the shutters of the window
are open. The longer you leave them open the more light comes in.
 Think of ISO as your eyes. Imagine you are in a room when suddenly
light goes out. At first you can’t see anything but then your eyes
adjust and become sensitive (High ISO) to light. You start to see
again. Now imagine suddenly the light comes back on. You
immediately respond by closing your eyes because your sensitive eyes
can’t handle so much light. Your eyes adjust and become less sensitive
to light (Low ISO) and you start to see normally.

 To get the required exposure, you have three options viz. Aperture,
Shutter Speed and ISO. Changing any one of these impacts the other
two.

 Changing aperture changes depth of field, changing ISO changes the

graininess of a shot and changing shutter speed impacts how motion is
captured.

 For any scene, there is only one correct exposure but there are a large
number of combinations of Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO to get
that exposure.

 For example, you are in Aperture Priority mode, the scene is a beach
at sunset. You select an aperture of f/8 and camera automatically
selects a shutter speed of 1/50 sec. You realize that f/8 doesn’t give
you the required depth of field. In a landscape photo, you need a wide
or large depth of field i.e. you need the entire photo in sharp focus.
You can achieve that by closing the aperture down by selecting f/16.
Now at f/16, the amount of light entering the camera is reduced so to
get the required exposure, the camera automatically increases the
shutter speed from 1/50 sec to 1/15 sec. i.e. the camera shutter will
now be open of 1/15 of a second which is more than the 1/50 of a
second.
 Exposure Modes

Aperture Priority Mode – A (Av for Canon) –

 Aperture Priority Mode is a semi-auto exposure mode indicated by A

on the mode dial or Av on Canon Cameras.

 In this mode, we have to manually set aperture value and the camera
decides the required shutter speed to get the right exposure.

 This exposure mode is often used by portrait and landscape

photographers as it allows control over the depth of field.

Shutter Priority Mode – S (Tv for Canon) –

 Shutter priority is also a semi-auto mode indicated by S on the mode

dial or Tv on Canon Cameras.

 In this mode, we have to manually set the shutter speed value and
the camera decides the appropriate aperture value.

 This mode is idea for capturing moving subjects like sports or subjects
in action.
Manual mode – M –

 This mode gives you the full freedom to choose aperture and shutter
speed.

 The camera indicates the exposure that will result from the chosen
settings in the exposure compensation scale.

 This deviation from correct exposure needs to be corrected by

changing the settings or dialing the required exposure compensations.
 Histogram

 Histogram is an important tool to check the exposure of an image.

 The LCD screen of the camera is not reliable to check the exposure of
an image. The brightness of the LCD screen is usually very high and
an underexposed image may look like perfectly exposed.

 Histogram is a graph of brightness on horizontal axis to number of

pixels on the vertical axis.

 It represents the number of pixels at each brightness level.

 The pixels touching the right side are overexposed/blown-out and the
ones touching the left side are pure blacks.

 Histogram is a reliable way to check the exposure of the image and

make changes to settings if the exposure is not correct.
 Exposure Metering

Exposure Metering –

 Metering is how your camera determines what the correct shutter

speed and aperture should be, depending on the amount of light that
goes into the camera and the sensitivity of the sensor.

 When we point the camera towards a scene, an exposure reading is

taken. Camera measures the light reflected back from the scene and
determines the correct exposure.

Exposure Metering Modes -

 Exposure Compensation

 Exposure metering modes may not always work for a given scene and
give a brighter or darker image.

 Exposure compensation is used to alter exposure from the value

selected by the camera, making photographs brighter or darker.

 It allows us to underexpose or overexpose an image.

When to use exposure compensation –

 Subject against a bright background or a scene containing too much

white – The camera senses that the scene is very bright and
underexposes the image. The result is a dark subject. Use the
exposure compensation and increase it by 1 stop.

 Subject against a dark background or a dark subject – The camera

senses that scence is very dark and overexposes the image resulting
in a very bright subject. Use exposure compensation and reduce the
exposure by 1 stop.
 Focus

 When the shutter release button is pressed halfway, the camera

begins AutoFocus operation.

 When AutoFocus is complete, the selected focus points are highlighted

and in-focus indicator lights up and camera beeps.

 Focus remains locked until the shutter release button is pressed

halfway.

 In some cases, the camera can’t focus. The in-focus indicator blinks.
The camera may struggle to focus in some cases where there is no
contrast or when the subject is too close to the lens.

Focus Modes –

 Single Autofocus – AF-S for Nikon, One shot AF for Canon

1. It is supported by most DSLR cameras. When the shutter release
button is half pressed, the camera locks the focus.

2. This mode does not track the subject’s movement. It is suitable for
shooting still subjects.

 Continuous/AF-C for Nikon or AI Servo for Canon Autofocus

Mode –
1. This mode is used for tracking moving subjects and it is a must for
shooting sports, wildlife and other non-stationary subjects.

2. The way this mode works, is it analyzes the subject movement and
predicts where the subject will be, placing the focus at the predicted
point.
 Single/Continuous Hybrid Mode –
1. Some cameras also have another mode called “AF-A” (Nikon) or “AI
Focus AF” (Canon), which is basically a hybrid mode that automatically
switches between Single/One-Shot and Continuous/AI Servo modes.

2. The way this works, is the camera detects if the subject is stationary,
in which case it automatically switches to Single focus, while if the subject
moves, it will switch to Continuous focus.
 White Balance

 The light coming from different light sources has different color casts.

 White Balance setting on the camera removes the color cast. It makes
sure that the scene is not affected by the color of the light source.

The White Balance settings on DSLR cameras are:

 Auto – The camera makes a best guess. It works in many situations.

 Tungsten – This mode is usually symbolized with a little bulb and is for
shooting indoors, especially under tungsten (incandescent) lighting. It cools
down the colors in photos.

 Fluorescent – This compensates for the ‘cool’ light of fluorescent light and
will warm up your shots.

 Daylight/Sunny – Normal setting for daylight or a sunny day.

 Cloudy – This setting generally warms the colors more than the ‘daylight’
mode.

 Flash – The flash of a camera has a cool light so in Flash WB mode, it

warms up your shots a little.

 Shade – The light in shade is generally cooler than shooting in direct

sunlight so this mode warms things up a little.
Tip – The cloudy setting should be used only when it is completely overcast.
The cloudy WB setting will warm up the colors which will remove any cool
colour in your photos. The daylight white balance setting is suitable for
normal days with scattered clouds.
 Flash

 In poor light conditions, the shutter speed slows down and it is

impossible to shoot without a tripod. Many places don’t allow tripods or
it is not practical to use one. For example, at weddings, the light may
not be enough and use of flash is necessary.

 Flash modes –

1. Auto – Based on the scene, the camera decides if flash is needed or

not.

2. Force flash – Force camera to use flash for a particular shot.

3. Flash forced off – Force camera not to use flash.

4. Red Eye Reduction – Our pupils become dilated in low light scenes
and flash reflects off the blood vessels in retina giving a red-eye look
in the photos. This mode gives off a pre-flash before the main flash so
that the pupils adjust to the light.

 Fill flash – Using flash in broad daylight when shooting backlit

subjects. If you are shooting a portrait and the face of the subject has
shadow on it then use flash to brighten up the face. The background
may overexpose a little but the subject will be properly lit.

 Flash Exposure Compensation – Use this setting to adjust the output of

the flash. Useful tool to reduce the intensity of the flash while using a
fill flash.
 Composition Techniques
We see the world in 3 dimensions. When we are trying to capture a scene on
a camera, we are trying to fit a 3D scene into a 2D medium. That’s why
sometimes we feel let down when the photos we click aren’t like the scene
we experienced.

This is where composition comes into play. Composition is all about trying to
tell a story through an image. There are some rules but nothing is hard and
fast. Every photographer has their own style.

There are certain elements which can be used to enhance an image –

1. Focal point – Every photo should have a strong point of interest. It is the
focal point where the viewer’s eye is drawn to. Photos without a focal point
look dull and the viewer quickly moves on.

2. Fill the frame – Try to fill as much of the scene with your main subject
avoiding unwanted elements.

3. Angle of shooting – Trying a new angle to shoot from can give a dramatic
look to the photo. Instead of always shooting at eye-level, try different
angles like shooting up into the sky, sitting on your knees or even lying
down.

4. Lines – Using lines in your photos that lead your viewer into the scene
and towards the focal point. It can be anything like a road, a fence, rocks,
river etc. Shapes, Patterns, Textures and contrasting colors are also good
compositional elements that create interesting photos.

5. Active space – Always keep some free space in front of a moving subject.
It helps to create a sense of action.
Rules of Composition –

1. Rule of Thirds -

 Divide the viewfinder into a 9 equal sections (3*3) using two

horizontal and two vertical lines.

 Compose your photo in such a way that the subject is placed on one of
the intersecting points.
2. The Rule of Thirds for horizon –

 When you are shooting landscapes, always give more preference to

the interesting portion of the scene by placing the horizon accordingly.

 That is, if you want more focus on the landscape then place the
horizon on the upper third of your screen.

 If you want more focus on the sky then place the horizon on the lower
third of your screen.

 Always keep the horizons straight. Tilted horizons can ruin a good
photo.

3. Active space –

 Always have space in the direction of the moving subject. If a subject

is looking right, place the subject slightly to the left. If a car is going
left of your screen, place it in the right.
 Tips for different photography styles

1. Portrait photography –

 Use wide open aperture like f/2 to isolate the person from the
background. Some lenses have even wider aperture like f/1.4.

 A short telephoto is typically the portrait photographer's favorite focal

length – 70 – 100 mm.

 Check the background for distracting elements and frame accordingly.

 Keep some distance between the subject and the background so that
the background can stay out of focus.

 Always focus on the subject’s eye.

 Try to capture candid shots. Candid shots often give good results with
natural expressions.

 Use flash if the subject’s face is in shadow. Use flash exposure

compensation to change the intensity of the flash.

 Avoid shooting in harsh midday sunlight. If there is no option then look

for some shade like under a tree.

 Use fill flash when dealing with backlit subject.

 Additional lighting sources maybe required for portrait/fashion

photography.
2. Landscape photography –

 Landscape photography has been around for centuries. Many famous

artists have used the nature as a source of inspiration for their
artwork.

 Landscapes include forests, meadows, beaches or also called as

seascapes, coastline and mountains.

 Landscape photography requires maximum depth of field. Use a

narrow aperture like f/11 to f/16 to get as much of the image in focus
as possible.

 Use a wide angle lense like 14-35 mm which gives a dramatic look to
image.

 Use the rules of composition.

 Even telephoto lenses can be used to isolated landscape shots like

zooming in on a mountain peak.

 Use lowest possible ISO to avoid any noise in the image.

 Use the Golden Hour light i.e. an hour after sunrise and an hour before
sunrise. Use the Blue hour i.e. time after sunset.

 Always check the highlights warning and histogram.

 Use exposure compensation to reduce the highlights. Details in

shadows can be recovered in post processing but blown out highlights
can’t be recovered.

 Use a tripod. Try to find something to lean against like a tree or a wall
in case you don’t have a tripod in a low light situation.

 ISO can be increased to have a faster shutter speed in case you don’t
have a tripod. It will no doubt affect the image quality but most
modern DSLR cameras can handle ISO up to 800 without any
significant noise introduced.
 Sports and Action photography

 Capturing the action of sports requires skill and patience. The target
here is to freeze the action, capture the drama and emotions.

 Sports photography requires long telephoto lenses like 300 mm or

more because of the distance involved.

 Burst mode which takes a sequence of images is very useful here.

 Use a faster shutter to freeze the action and a wide aperture to isolate
the subject.

 In cases where there isn’t much light, use higher ISO.

 Use a tripod wherever possible.

Nature and Wildlife photography

 Nature photography is a diverse field ranging from plants, flowers,

trees, birds, insects and wildlife.

 This field is not just about photography. It is more of a scientific field

than a photography style.

 It requires knowledge of where and how to locate the subject. It

requires knowledge of birds, animals, their habitat and drinking and
eating habits.

 Long telephoto lenses are a must for wildlife allowing to shoot from a
safe distance.

 A macro lens is useful for taking photos of insects and flowers.