Service and ReconditioningLab Manual Final Manual

SERVICE AND RECONDITIONING LAB
VII Semester (10AUL77)
Name of the Student :
Semester /Section :
USN :
Batch :
DAYANANDA SAGAR COLLEGE OF ENGINEERING

Accredited by National Assessment & Accreditation Council (NAAC) with ’A’ Grade
(An Autonomous Institution affiliated to Visvesvaraya Technological University, Belagavi
&
ISO 9001:2008 Certified)
AUTOMOBILE ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
SHAVIGE MALLESWARA HILLS, KUMARASWAMY LAYOUT
BENGALURU-560078
Service and Reconditioning Lab: [2017]
(Backside of cover page)
Vision of the Institute
To impart quality technical education with a focus on

Research and Innovation emphasizing on
Development of Sustainable and Inclusive Technology
for the benefit of society.
Mission of the Institute

 To provide an environment that enhances
creativity and Innovation in pursuit of Excellence.
 To nurture teamwork in order to transform

individuals as responsible leaders and
entrepreneurs.
 To train the students to the changing technical

scenario and make them to understand the
importance of Sustainable and Inclusive
technologies.
AU Dept., Dayananda Sagar College of Engineering Bengaluru Page 2

SERVICE AND RECONDITIONING LAB MANUAL

VII Semester (10AUL77)
Name of the Student :
Semester /Section :
USN :
Batch :

(An Autonomous Institution affiliated to Visvesvaraya Technological University, Belagavi)
DEPARTMENT OF AUTOMOBILE ENGINEERING, BENGALURU-560078
DAYANANDAVISION
SAGAR OFCOLLEGE OF ENGINEERING
THE DEPARTMENT
(An
To Autonomous
impart Institution
appropriate, latest,affiliated to Visvesvaraya
sustainable, Technological
quality Automobile University,
Engineering Belagavi)with
Education
AUTOMOBILE
continuous assessment for fostering ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
Research, Innovation beneficial to the Society at large.
SHAVIGE
MISSION MALLESWARA
OF THE DEPARTMENT HILLS
• To provide world class Education to students for learning and applying their acquired
KUMARASWAMY LAYOUT
BENGALURU-560078
Knowledge of sciences to Automobile Engineering.

• To inculcate a passion for Automobile Engineering amongst students by providing
hands on training on Automobiles using latest Diagnostic Tools and Techniques.
• To Encourage Learning through Interdisciplinary interaction by conducting workshops,
expert lectures, certification programs, quizzes and competitions for efficient design.
• To create awareness and develop sensitivity towards Society and Environment, by

adopting necessary cutting edge Research and Innovation through collaborations.
PROGRAMME EDUCATIONAL OBJECTIVES [PEOs]
PEO-1: An ability to apply knowledge of mathematics, science, and engineering to identify,
formulate and solve problems in technologically challenging Automotive field which has
evolved highly interdisciplinary with..
PEO-2: An experience of working on live projects in design, modeling and analysis of
Automotive systems and its components using Engineering application software and to
service the recent models of Automobiles using the latest Diagnostic tools.
PEO-3: An Awareness on contemporary areas of socio-technological issues like energy
crisis, automotive safety, pollution, hybrid automobiles, formal practices of human
resources and industrial relations in order to achieve professional development.
PEO-4: Proficiency in spoken English to actively participate in team meetings to plan,
organize, propose ideas in a multicultural environment and also be able to communicate
effectively through proficient writing skills.
PEO-5: Solid knowledge foundation and will be able to upgrade, refine his knowledge
through professional experience, higher studies or research.
PROGRAMME SPECIFIC OUTCOMES [PSOs]
PSO-1: Aims to impart skills required for basic servicing techniques.

PSO-2: Provides basic platform for reconditioning the worn out automobile components

DEPARTMENT OF AUTOMOBILE ENGINEERING, BENGALURU-560078
SERVICE AND RECONDITIONING LAG-III (SYLLABUS)
VII SEMESTER B. E (AU)
Sub. Code: 10AUL77 IA Marks : 25

Hrs/Week : 03 Exam Hrs : 03
Total Hrs: 42 Exam Marks : 50
Course Objectives:
 Students will learn about the basic service skills of vehicles
 Assembly and disassembly of parts of vehicle will be known
 Students able to learn self repairing of tubeless tyre puncture process
 Students will understand brake bleeding process, honing and other service real time
problems
Syllabus:
1. Study of hand tools- sketching, materials used and their applications.
2. Study and layout of an automobile repair, service and maintenance shop
3. Study and practice of wheel alignment
5. Study of removal and fitting of tyre and tube with tubeless tyre puncture repairs
6. Boring of engine cylinder and honing process
7. Adjustment of valve clearance
8. Ignition timing and dwell angle
9. Bleeding of brakes
10. Valve lapping
11. Adjustment of head light beam.
12. To study the Simple Tinkering & painting works of body panels.
Course Outcomes:
 Automotive engine lab-III aims to improve and understanding the skills required for
basic servicing techniques during emergency situations.
 Which also provides basic platform for their future studies, research and development

DEPARTMENT OF AUTOMOBILE ENGINEERING
AUTOMOBILE ENGG. LAB-III (10AUL77)
I - CYCLE
1. Study of hand tools- sketching, materials used and their applications.

2. Study and layout of an automobile repair, service and maintenance shop
3. Study and checking of wheel alignment
4. Valve lapping
5. Study of removal and fitting of tyre and tube with tubeless tyre puncture repairs
II - CYCLE
6. Ignition timing and dwell angle

7. Adjustment of valve clearance
8. Boring of engine cylinder and honing process
9. Bleeding of brakes
III – CYCLE
11. Adjustment of head light beam
12. To study the Simple Tinkering & painting works of body panels.
DO’s
Adhere and follow timings, proper dress code with appropriate
foot wear.
Bags, and other personal items must be stored in designated

place.
Come prepare with the viva, procedure, and other details of the
experiment.
DEPARTMENT OF AUTOMOBILE ENGINEERING
BENGALURU
Secure long hair, loose clothing – 560078safety and emergency
& know
procedures.
Do check for the correct ranges/rating and carry one
meter/instrument at a time
Inspect all equipment/meters for damage prior to use
Conduct the experiments accurately as directed by the teacher.

untoward incident to the faculty /instructor.
Handle the apparatus/meters/computers gently and with care

In case of an emergency or accident, follow the safety
procedure.
Switch OFF the power supply after completion of experiment
DONT’s
The use of mobile/ any other personal electronic gadgets is
prohibited in the laboratory.
Do not make noise in the Laboratory & do not sit on experiment

table.
Do not crowd around equipment & machines.
Don’t touch equipments without prior permission from the

Experiment No:________ Date:____________
concerned staff.
Do not carry out experiments Title of theguidance from the concerned

without
Experiment
staff.
Experiment No: 01 Date: ____________
Never leave the experiments while in progress.

Study of Hand Tools
Do not leave the Laboratory without the signature of the concerned
staff in observation book
Aim: To study and prepare report on the application details, materials used and sketching
of the hand and special tools used in servicing of vehicles.
Theory:
A hand tool is a device for performing work on a material or a physical system using
only hands. The hand tools can be manually used employing force, or electrically powered,
using electrical current. Virtually every type of tool can be a hand tool and many have also
been adapted as power tools, which get their motive power from motors or engines rather
than from human mechanical action. Some examples of a hand tools
are hammers, spanners, pliers, screwdrivers and chisels.
Torque wrench
A torque wrench is a tool used to precisely apply a specific torque to a fastener such as
a nut or bolt. It is usually in the form of a socket wrench with special internal mechanisms.
A torque wrench is used where the tightness of screws and bolts is crucial. It allows the
operator to measure the torque applied to the fastener so it can be matched to the
specifications for a particular application. It was designed to prevent over tightening bolts.
Piston ring remover
Here’s a universal tool that handles piston rings of all sizes. Rings can be removed or
installed on the piston without fear of breakage from the unnatural twisting that occurs
when using just your hands.
Piston ring compressor

It is a spring metal sleeve that goes over a piston to

compress the rings so that the piston can be install in the
motor. It tightens down on the piston, forcing the rings
into the grooves in the piston then you tap it into the
cylinder.
Piston ring groove cleaner
A piston ring groove cleaner is a tool

specifically designed to quickly remove
carbon and other accumulated materials
from piston ring grooves to allow new rings
to make a better seal against the piston.
Piston ring groove cleaners typically come
with a set of two or three cutters which
allow the tool to be adapted to a range of
piston groove sizes. A heavy coil spring holds
the cutter in place in the groove.
Valve lifter tool
A device for opening the valve of a cylinder as in an

internal combustion engine.
And designed to compress and release valve spring
after removing the collets.
Stud removal
Stud Removal and Installer Tool makes the job of removing those hard to turn studs a
simple task. It assures a positive engagement on installation.

Oil-filter wrench:
An oil-filter wrench is a tool for removing

spin-on type oil filters. These filters are
smooth, cylindrical canisters with knurling
on the bottom that are difficult to grip,
especially when they are oily.
The loop of strap is placed around the filter,
and the bar is turned anticlockwise by hand
until the band wraps itself tightly around the
filter which helps prevent slippage.
Measuring instruments
Vernier caliper:
The vernier caliper give a direct reading of the distance measured to high accuracy (error is
0.05 mm). An ordinary vernier caliper has jaws you can place around an object, and on the
other side jaws made to fit inside an object. These secondary jaws are for measuring the
inside diameter of an object. Also, a stiff bar extends from the caliper as you open it that can
be used to measure depth.

Micrometer
A micrometer sometimes known

as a micrometer screw gauge, is
a device incorporating a
calibrated screw used widely for
precise measurement of small
distances in mechanical
engineering and machining as
well as most mechanical trades,
Dial gauge
Dial indicators, also known as dial gauges and probe indicators, are
instruments used to accurately measure small linear distances, and are
frequently used in industrial and mechanical processes. They are named so
because the measurement results are displayed in a magnified way by means
of a dial.
Outside and inside calipers
A caliper is a device used to measure the distance between two

opposing sides of an object. A caliper can be as simple as
a compass with inward or outward-facing points. The tips of the
caliper are adjusted to fit across the points to be measured, the
caliper is then removed and the distance read by measuring
between the tips with a measuring tool, such as a ruler.
The inside calipers are used to measure the internal size of an
object.
Outside calipers are used to measure the external size of an
object.

Feeler gauge
A feeler gauge is a tool used to measure gap widths. Feeler gauges are mostly used in
engineering to measure the clearance between two parts. They consist of a number of small
lengths of steel of different thicknesses with measurements marked on each piece. They are
flexible enough that, even if they are all on the same hinge, several can be stacked together
to gauge intermediate values.
Dial bore gauge:
A dial or vernier bore gauge measures a bore directly. The gauge has three symmetrical
anvils that protrude from the gauge body that are connected to the dial or micrometer
mechanism. As the knob is rotated it moves the anvils in or out with respect to the
measurements. The knob usually has a slipping mechanism to take the feel out of the device
and increase reliability between measurements. The measurement given is the mean
diameter of the three anvils, and is usually good to 0.001 mm

Experiment
Study and layout of an automobile repair, service and maintenance shop
Aim: To draw the layout of an automobile repair, service and maintenance shop and study the
different sections of the layout.
Theory:
Service station:
A service is a place where in addition to care of the motor vehicle like mechanical service and
minor repairs, petrol is supplied, cars are lubricated, cleaned, washed and other types pf simpler
services that are required daily are performed. In general it includes a number of sections like
garage general services, mechanical service, major repair shop, tyre shop, paint shop, body shop
etc.
A service station is addition to the equipment available is garage is usually run in conjuction with
a sales agency for a particular type of motor vehicle to provide comprehensive repair service for
that particular vehicle.
The equipment available, in general garage will be added with specialized equipment like
lifting tackle, and different types of jigs, fixtures and tools specially designed for checking,
adjusting and repair of particular type and make of vehicle. A service station may consist of a
machine shop having a lathe, drilling machine etc.

In case of big service station special types of machines like crankshaft grinding machine,
valve refacer, surface grinder, reboring and boring machine, brake drum lathe also will be used.
In service station fuel filling and water servicing facilities are available. It has a small workshop
to provide repair for particular make of vehicle. It may have sales agency for a particular type of
vehicle. All the equipment in the garage plus small workshop tools: viz, lathe, drilling machine,
jigs, fixtures are available.
Layout of garages and service station:
The internal layout of a garage should be such as to make it water proof, clean and spacious to
provide sufficient space for small workbenches to storage and repair benches. Following
considerations should be made in the layout of garage and service stations:
 To provide light to the workbenches, openings the windows should be provided at the
proper place.
 To keep the floor cleanable, it should be a smooth concrete floor with a surface-scaling
compound.
 The doors are provided as many members as required for easy flow of men and materials.
 The electrical control should be accessible to the operators.
 To form a neat storage for hanging tools, hooks or screw eyes should be provided on the
pegboards.
 To provide a deposit of waste material.

Conclusion:
Thus, the general layout of an automobile repair, service and maintenance shop was drawn and
the functions of the different sections of the layout were studied.
Signature of Staff Incharge with date:

Experiment
Study and checking of wheel alignment

(Testing of chamber, castor, king pin inclination, toe-in and toe-out)
Aim: To contact the wheel alignment test on the given vehicles and to find the castor angle and
camber, king-pin inclination, Toe-in and toe-out for the given angle for a given vehicles.
Tools required:
(i) Wheel alignment gauge

(ii) Toe-in and Toe-out bar
(iii) Turning table
Description:
The wheel alignment refers to the positioning of the front wheels and steering mechanism
that gives the vehicle directional stability, promotes case of steering and reduces tyre wear to a
minimum. A vehicle is said to have directional stability or control if it can run straight down a
road, enter and leave a turn easily and resist road shocks. The front wheel alignment depends
upon the following terms – Camber, Caster, Kingpin inclination, toe-in and toe-out on turns. The
front wheel geometry or steering geometry refers to the angular relationship between the front
wheels, the front wheel attaching parts and the vehicle frame. All the above terms are included in
the front wheel geometry. The various factors that affect the wheel alignment of the vehicles are
given below
1. Factors pertaining to wheel
a. Balance of wheels
b. Inflation of tyres
c. Brake adjustment
2. Steering Geometry
a. Camber
b. Caster
c. Kingpin inclination
d. Toe-in and Toe-out
3. Steering linkages
4. Suspension System
Camber
The angle between the centerline of the tyre and the vertical line when viewed from the
front of the vehicle is known as camber. When the angle is turned outward, so that the wheels are
farther apart at the top than at the bottom, the camber is positive. When the angle is inward, so
that the wheels are closer together at the top than at the bottom, the camber is negative. Any
amount of camber, positive or negative, tends to cause uneven or more tyre wear on one side that
on the other side. Camber should not Exceed 20.
Procedure
(i) Turn the wheel to 300 LHS
(ii) Adjust the sprit level such that the bubble occupies the center position.
(iii) Note the reading of the 600 scale.
(iv) Turn the wheel to 300 RHS and the above procedure is repeated and the
value is noted.
(v) The difference between the two readings gives the camber angle.

Caster
The angle between the vertical line and the kingpin centerline in the plane of the wheel (when
viewed from the side) is called the Caster angle. When the top of the king pin is backward, the
caster angle is positive and when it is forward the caster angle is negative. The caster angle in
modern vehicles range from 2 to 8 degrees.
Procedure
1. Park the car on the turning table
2. Turn the wheel alignment gauge to 900.
3. Fix the wheel alignment gauge on the wheel.
4. Turn the wheel to 250 in RHS.
5. Adjust the bubble to its original position
6. Note the reading on the 50-degree scale and the noted value will give the caster angle.
Result:
Thus the front wheel geometry of the given car was studied
KING-PIN INCLINATION:
The angle between the vehicle line and the centre of king pin (or) steering axle, when viewed
from the front of known as king –pin inclination in combination with castor is used to provide
directional stability in modern cars, by tending to return the wheels to straight effort particularly
when the vehicle is stationary. it reduces tyre wear also the king-pin inclination in modern range
from 4 to8 0.
Procedure:
1. Park the car on the turning table.
2. Fix the wheel alignment gauge in the wheel.
3. Turn the wheel to 30 0 RHS and adjust the sprit level such that the bubble occupies centre
position.
TOE-IN AND TOE-OUT:

The front wheels are usually turned in slightly in front so that the distance between the front ends
(A) is slightly less than the difference between the back ends (B) , when viewed from the top the
difference between these distance is called toe in. the amount of toe-in is usually 3 to 5 mm. The
toe in is provided to ensure parallel rolling at the front wheels to stabilize steering and prevent
side slipping and excessive tyre wear.
Toe out is the difference in angle between the two front wheels and the caar frame during
turns steering system is designed to turn the inside wheel through a larger angle. Then the outside

wheel when braking in a turn, the condition causes the wheels to toe-out on turn due to different
in their turning angle, the toe-out is screwed by knuckle, knobs and fitness arms.
Procedure:
1. The toe-out bar is positioned front the front of the vehicle such that the pointer to where the
wheel and the distance between the wheel is found the scale on the bar is kept as(A)
2. Similarly the distance between the front wheels on the rear side is oted.keep it as (B).
3. From the reading, we can find toe-in and toe-out. If A,B then it is toe-out, if B>A ,then it is
toe-in.
Toe-in on terms:
1. Park the car in the turning table.
2. Turn the wheels to extreme left.
3. The readings in both the turn tables are noted. The difference in reading will give the toe-out
and left turn.
4. Similarly the values are calculated for the right turn.
Result:
Thus the front wheel geometry, king-pin inclination. Toe-in, toe-out of the given car is studied of
the given car is studied.


Experiment
Study of Wheel Balancing for given wheel
Aim: Study and checking of Wheel Balancing for given wheel.
Tools required:
Wheel Guard
Double ended wheel seating cone
Width Caliper range 3” - 20”
Weight Plier
Wheel seating cone for wheel bore : 1 Set
Dia 48 to 77 mm, Dia 77 to 105 mm, Dia 110 to 120 mm
Weight fixing gauge
Sticker weight remover
Description and technical specification of Wheel Balancer:
Professional Wheel balancer with 15.5” TFT monitor suitable for 10”-24” rim dia and
maximum 65 kg wheel weight.

Procedure: It usually takes about 2-3 minutes per wheel balance including mounting the
wheel on the balancer. If you haven't done it before it will probably take a bit longer
1. Remove any stone or nail sticking to the tire
2. Inflate the tire to right pressure
3. Remove any old weights from the wheel and clean it thoroughly. Make sure the valve
stem cap is installed.
4. Mount the wheel on the balancer using the mid centering device kit to center the wheels
5. Measure the distance to rim with the automatic measurement attachment.

6. Enter the rim size looking at the tire specification.

7. Measure the wheel width with width caliper and enter the values the width.

8. Enter the type of wheel to be balance, alloy or an ordinary wheel.
9. Close the safety wheel guard to spin the wheel.
10. Rotate the wheel and bring the red dot which indicates the balancing weights to be
attached to the top the wheel and attach the weights indicated with weight plier.
11. Repeat the procedure until the wheelis balanced.

Experiment
Study of removal and fitting of tyre and tube with tubeless tyre puncture
repairs
Aim: To study and repair of Tubeless tyre puncture.
Procedure
Step.1 External inspection

Prior to demounting1, check tire surface and the valve for the source of the leak(s) by using water or
a soap solution. Mark the injured area and totally deflate the tire. Then remove the tire from the
wheel being careful to avoid further damage to the tire, particularly to the bead area. Place on a well-
lighted spreader. (Avoid excessive spreading of the tire or tire beads.)
Always inspect tires internally and externally prior to installation of any repair. A minimum of 200
foot candles of lighting is required—300 foot candles is recommended—at the surface being
inspected. A hand-held inspection light can help ensure that these conditions are met both inside and
outside the tire. Consult your equipment supplier for appropriate lighting.
Step.2 Internal inspection

Spread the beads and mark the injury with a tire crayon. Remove the puncturing object noting
the angle of penetration. Probe the injury with a blunt awl to determine the extent and direction
of the injury and remove any loose foreign material. If the angle of the injury exceeds 25°, use a
two-piece repair system (see graphic at center). Do not repair if injury extends into the
shoulder/belt edge area and never repair in the sidewall area .
Clean the area around the puncture thoroughly with an appropriate (pre-buff) inner liner cleaner.
Use a clean cloth and/or scraper, according to repair material manufacturer’s recommendations.
Consult your local repair materials supplier for an appropriate cleaner3. This step serves to
remove dirt and mold lubricants that can reduce repair unit adhesion and contaminate buffing
tools.

Step.4 prepare injury channel
All damage must be removed. Use an electric/air powered drill (1,200 rpm max.) with an
appropriate size carbide cutter or other suitable tool. Beginning from the inside, ream the
puncture channel a minimum of three times—repeat from the outside. Use a probe to check for
any splits in the radial plies surrounding the injury. Remove any additional damage found.
Step.5 Repair unit selection

Select the appropriate size repair unit, based on repair material manufacturer's recommendations.
Center the unit over the injury and outline an area 1/2” (13mm) larger than the repair unit, so
buffing will not remove the crayon marks.
Step.6 Fill injury

For a two-piece repair, follow instructions below.
For a one-piece (combination) repair unit, skip this step.
Do not mix products from different repair material manufacturers.3 Follow repair material
manufacturer application recommendations. Cement the puncture channel per recommendations
(see photo, bottom left). Completely fill the injury from the inside of the tire with a suitable
vulcanizing material or rubber stem. Without stretching the stem, cut the material off just above
the inside tire surface (see graphic, bottom right). It is necessary to completely fill the injury to

provide a backup for the patch repair unit and to prevent rusting of the steel wires or
deterioration of fabric.
Step.7 Buffing
To prevent contamination and preserve the outline, buff within the marked area thoroughly and
evenly with a low speed buffer (5,000 rpm max.) with a fine wire brush or gritted rasp. Take
care not to expose or damage tire casing body (ply) cords. Buff to a velvet surface; RMA
No. 1 or No. 2 texture.4
Never buff the tire inner liner too deep exposing the tire casing body (ply) cords. If this type of
damage occurs during buffing, the tire must be scrapped.
Remove all rubber dust from the buffed area by using a fine wire brush and vacuum, being careful to
avoid touching and contaminating the area. Do not use compressed air to clean bonding
surfaces; air lines contain contaminants such as oil and moisture, which reduce adhesion.
Follow repair material manufacturer's recommendations for cleaning the buffed area.
Step.8 Cementing
Apply chemical cement and allow it to dry according to repair material manufacturer's procedures.
Do not use forced air or outside heat source to accelerate drying time. (In cold and/or humid climate
conditions, adjust drying time.)
WARNING!
Do not use flammable cements near fire, flame or any other source of ignition. Explosive force
and/or fire from ignition of cement could cause serious injury or death.

Step 9. Repair unit application.
The tire must be in a relaxed position when the repair unit is installed.
(Do not spread the beads excessively.) Remove and discard protective
covering being careful not to touch the bonding material on the repair
unit.3 When using a two-piece, directionally marked unit, install the
unit so that the alignment is correct and centered over the injury. Next,
stitch down thoroughly with a stitching tool, working from the center
out. When using a one-piece, combination patch/stem repair unit,
Donot cement the stem, instead cement the injury channel. Next, pull
the
Stem through the injury until the unit slightly dimples, then stitch
down thoroughly with a stitching tool, working from the center out.
Remove and discard the top protective covering. Cut the fill material
flush with the outer tread surface while being careful not to stretch the
stem.
Inspect patched area! If the buffed area extends beyond the patch, look
for any signs of tire casing body (ply) cords. Do not continue the repair
if the buffed area exposes the tire’s casing body (ply) cords; the tire
must be scrapped.
Step10. Final inspection

Inspect all repairs; rework if necessary. After remounting and inflating the tire/wheel
assembly1, inspect the assembly (tire/rim/valve) for damage or leakage. Pay particular
attention to the location of the repair, the beads and the valve. If the tire continues to lose
air, it must again be removed from the wheel for complete re-inspection. (For tube-type
tires be sure to replace a damaged tube with a new tube.)


Experiment
Cylinder honing process

Aim: To make honing on the given cylinder in the radial drilling machine
Tools required:Drill chuck with key, Honing head, Bore dial, outside micrometer
Safety devices: Safety glasses , Brush , Safety shoes
Precautions for personal and machine safety
l. Al ways wear safety glasses
2. Do not pass your hands between the tools and work while the machine is in operation
3. Keep tools away from the moving parts of the machine
4. Keep the machine well oiled. and Keep your mind on your work at all times
Procedure:
1. Select the proper-sized honing tool. Keep in mind when making your selection that these i
intentionally built slightly oversized. For example, if t he cylinder you want to hone is 2 inches
wide, there is no need to purchase a honing tool that is larger than 2 inches wide, It will
automatically come slightly larger so it applies adequate pressure to polish the cylinder walls. The
amount of polishing done is not determined by the width of the tool, but rather by how long it is used
inside the cylinder.
2. The desired rotational speed is 1,200 to 1,600 rpm, so make sure that speed is within your drill's
normal operating range at full power. If your drill has a speed selection switch, set it to around l400
rpm. Any rotating device that operates within the required rpm range will work, but a drill is usually
the most convenient device for this task. If you’re using a cordless drill, make sure the battery is
fully charged before beginning. A reduced charge could lower the rotational speed and alter the
results.
3. Apply lubricant liberally to the honing device. Any oil -based lubricant will work for this task.
Mineral oil or a lubricant specifically made for cylinder honing will work fine. Slowly rotate the
honing tool.
Result:

Experiment
Adjustment of valve clearance
Aim: To check and adjust the valve clearance / tappet clearance.
Tools required: Feeler gauge, screw driver, open end spanner and ring spanner.
Theory: Tappet clearance is of utmost importance in the 4 stroke internal combustion engines.
Tappet clearance is the clearance between the rocker arms and the point where they rest on the valves
to allow thermal expansion. The general clearances are somewhere between 0.3mm to 1.5 mm
depending upon the manufacture and the valve (Air or Exhaust).
Valve clearances are the small gaps between the tops of the valve stems and the part of the
mechanism which presses on them to open the valves. Check the clearances at regular intervals as
specified in the car service schedule, and adjust if necessary. Reset the clearances whenever
the cylinder head has been removed. The job is commonly called adjusting the tappets.
What happens with wrong settings ?
Over time of usage, due to wear and tear, the valve sprint may lose tension or the rocker arm may
lose its edge, hence allowing the gap to unsettle. If the value drops below specified limit, you may
find starting trouble in cold weather, but usually the gap increases, and when it does, you would face
host of issues.
 Vibration from engine.
 Noise from engine..
 Power loss in high RPM
 Effects in fuel economy as the bike starts to give low mileage
With time, it would affect the valve and may cause valve damage and lead to engine seize !!
How often you may need to look into the issue ?

As per the service schedule, which you may find in your service book, it is recommended to check
and adjust the tappet settings / valve clearance in every service. Shown service schedule for a Bajaj
Pulsar 150cc bike.

Modern automobiles come with self-adjusting hydraulic system.
Procedure:
1. Before starting, make sure you know the type of valve mechanism commonly called
valve gear - fitted to your engine, and the relative valve clearances.

2. Remove the rocker arm cover, First of all you need make sure that the unit you are going
to take tappet clearance should be in top dead centre. This is clearly marked on the
flywheel. You can use turning gear to turn that particular unit to TDC. Always ensure
that the piston is at the end of compression stroke and ‘T’ is seen from ‘Timing
Inspection Window’ at generator cover. When adjusting tappet clearance.

3. Find the correct valve clearances for inlet and exhaust valves, and whether they should
be adjusted with the engine hot or cold. `Hot' means that the engine must be warmed to
normal working temperature, then switched off - and you must work quickly before the
engine cools. `Cold' means absolutely cold: the engine must not have run for at least six
hours - check in the car handbook. For example Following are the values for Valve
clearance / Tappet Adjustment for Bajaj Pulsar 200NS: Intake - 0.05 mm, Exhaust - 0.08
mm, For Pulsar 150: Intake - 0.05 mm, Exhaust - 0.1 mm
4. Once the piston is at TDC, you can grab the top of the tappet and lift up/down to
confirm, it should move up/down slightly. place the correct feeler gauge for your engine
specs between the valve and tappet. - push/pull a few times to get the feal of the
clearance. - it should feal snug, not to tight and not to lose. - if its tight back it off, if its
loose, tighten it up to do so - place a 10mm ring spanner, feeler gauge, and flat blade
screw driver on the exhaust tappet.
5. Looser the 10mm nut, only enough to be able to turn the screw. turn your screwdriver
counter clockwise to loosen the valve clearance, turn it clock wise to tighten the valve
clearance.
Make an adjustment and hold your screw driver firm so it won’t move, and nip up (not
tight but tight enough to stop everything from moving ) the 10mm nut. check your
clearance, do this respectively until you have reached the desired clearance. When you
got your final clearance put your spanner on the nut and screw driver on the screw. hold
the screw driver firm and tighten the nut. do not over tighten as you will snap it. to not
leave it loose as you will cause all sorts of problems.
Results and Conclusion: After properly setting the tappet clearance, If the tappets
were loose initially the tick tick sound will disappear. If the tappets were tight initially the kick
will be harder to press.


Experiment
Boring of engine cylinder

Aim: To check the cylinder bore, measurement setting and rebore the worn out cylinder bore
using a vertical portable boring machine.
Tools/Equipment required: Bore gauge, test lamp, clamps, Vertical Cylinder Boring Machine
Theory: The wear in the engine cylinder is not uniform due to varying normal pressures against
the rubbing surfaces. Normally in the IC Engine cylinder wear at the top is maximum leaving a
tapered bore. Due to obliquity in the connecting rod, the wear on the cylinder surface in the plane
of connecting rod is significant and is called the thrust axis. The piston skirts are made longer to
take up the side thrust forces.

Procedure:
1. Initially measure the cylinder bore size at 3 points like top, middle and bottom using
telescopic bore gauge and also measure them in the longitudinal(a) and transverse
direction(b).

2. The vertical boring machine is placed on the engine, after it is fixed to the stand. Boring
machine is fixed to the engine clamp and machine clamp.
3. Set the cylinder bore centre and the front mounted spindle centre by using spring loaded
pin arrangement The spindle is lifted and centred to the cylinder which is to be measured
and machines using pin and spring.
4. The centring pins are introduced into their respective holes and the spring is introduced
over them.
5. Machine the ovality, taper and scoring marks etc.
6. After fixing the spindle is lifted and the centre pin spring are removed.
7. The boring tool is now placed in the holder and the nut above the holder is adjusted
using allen key to move the boring tool. Its distance from the centre is measured by tool
setting micrometer.
8. Tool is set to the required length according to the next specified bore diameter and tool
adjusting nut.
9. The tool position is fixed using the locker nut on one side, now the motor is started and
the gear is engaged for automatic movement of spindle.
10. The spindle is lowered into the bore and the centring pins are extended by turning the
expander knob.
11. After ensuring the boring part is rotated at the exact centre of the bore, tighten the clamp.
12. Set the depth of the stopper upto BDC.
13. Machine position is adjusted and the centre pins are extended and brought in such that the
gap between the pins and the cylinder walls are the same.
14. Leave at least 0.03mm of additional material in the bore for honing.
Inference/conclusion:
Acquainted with the procedure of measuring the bore dimensions, centring the bore shaft
with the bore axis, setting the vertical boring machine to the exact size and rebored to the next
standard size of the cylinder.


Experiment
Bleeding of Brakes
Aim: To perform brake bleeding for the Maruti 800 vehicle.
Theory: If you have opened the brake fluid lines while replacing the brake wheel cylinder or
master cylinder during repair, or If your vehicle has squishy-feeling( spongy) brakes due trapped
air in brake oil, or if you have change the brake fluid routine maintenance, then the way to get
the air out of the lines is to bleed the brakes. To do the job, you need either a brake bleeder
wrench or a combination wrench that fits the bleeder nozzle on your vehicle, a can of the proper
brake fluid, a clean glass jar, and a friend. Manufacturers recommend replacing your brake fluid
every three years or so because most fluid deteriorates with use. Also, its affinity for water
reduces the fluid’s heat resistance and can cause brake-system corrosion.
Tools and Essentials: Ring spanner, Brake fluid, Transparent tube and fluid holder can.

Procedure:
STEP 1: Jack up the car and support it with jack stands.

STEP 2: Remove all four wheels.
STEP 3: Locate
the caliper
bleeding
screws, spray them
with penetrating
oil, and attempt to
loosen them.
Reaching
this bleeder
screw may be
easier if you jack up the vehicle.
STEP 4: check the fluid level in the brake master cylinder. Add fresh fluid if it’s lower than the
marked “full” point. Use the specific type of fluid recommended in the owner’s manual because

there are several different kinds and not all of them play well together. During brake bleeding,
the master-cylinder cap should be left unscrewed but still in place atop the reservoir.
STEP 5: Each brake must be bled in the correct sequence. The general format is to bleed the
brake most distant from the master cylinder first, but some cars require a different order. That
information is available in the factory manual or from your dealer’s service department.
STEP 6: Insert a transparent flexible hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw and place the
other end of the hose below the brake fluid in the jar.
STEP 7: With the car’s engine off, have your able assistant pump the brake pedal for several
strokes until he or she notices resistance underfoot. The assistant should shout “Pressure!” when
a firm pedal is achieved. (You may also use whatever safe-word you and your companion have
worked out from earlier encounters.)
STEP 8: While the assistant maintains pressure on the pedal, open the bleeder screw a small
amount. Fluid will pass through the clear tube, and the pedal will begin dropping toward the
floor.
STEP 9: Before the pedal reaches the floor, the assistant must yell “Floor!” Quickly close the
bleeder screw when you hear that warning. Look under the hood and recheck the reservoir’s
fluid level; add brake fluid if necessary.

STEP 10: Repeat steps seven through nine at least five times until the stream of fluid flowing
through the clear tubing is free of air bubbles.
STEP 11: Repeat steps seven through ten at the remaining three brake locations in proper
sequence.
STEP 12: While the assistant applies full effort to the brake pedal followed by an abrupt release
of that effort, observe the motion of the fluid in the master-cylinder reservoir. If there is a
substantial fluid eruption, there are air bubbles still trapped in the system. You must repeat the
bleeding procedure to remove that air. A modest disturbance in the fluid returning to the reservoir
indicates a properly bled brake system.
STEP 13: Double-check that all bleeder screws are tight before reinstalling the car’s wheels.
Failure to complete this step will likely result in an accident.
Conclusion: used brake fluid which had entrapped air or moisture is now flushed out of the
brake line with new brake fluid to transfer motion from the foot pedal to brake shoes without any
loss in motion. If the brake still feels spongy then we need to repeat the above steps.


Experiment
Valve lapping
Aim: To repair the valve seats by lapping and check valves for leaks.
Theory: The intake and exhaust valves in an engine should have airtight sealing when closed to
hold the pressure of the compression and power strokes. Valve sits on the valve seats cut on the
cylinder head. The contact and seal between the valve and seat can now not only be perfected but
also stay that way through out the life of the engine. Most of the cylinder heads have valve seat
ring inserts for ease of repair.

.
The valve seats have three different angle cuts to them, and each are cut by special cutting
tools. The first cut is made with the 30° cutter, the second cut is made with the 45° cutter, and the
third cut is with the 60° cutter.
Procedure:
Valve lapping: when you get a valve refacing, Lap the valve seats with lapping compound. Use
light pressure, and do not allow the lapping compound to get into the valve guides. When you are
finished thoroughly clean the lapping compound off of the cylinder head. the valves are
supposed to seat and seal. You can test the valve to seat seal yourself by holding the heads so the
ports are vertical and pouring in a bit of alcohol,or toluene and looking for leaks around the
valve seats. don,t drill and lap it into place, to be done correctly its done on low speed by hand
in a constantly reversing rotation, so you don,t build heat and burn the seat. Persian blue can be
used to check the contact between the valve and the valve seat.

leaking or non-sealing valve seats lead to un-even heat on the valve, and can warp the valve and
eventually can result in a burnt valve or ruined valve seat.
Steps for valve lapping:

1. Ensure that the work area is clean. Have several lint-free wipes open-end and ready for use.
2. Ensure that you have the appropriate sized laps for the face diameter.
3. Select the type of compound to use for the first lapping sequence.
4. Set the lap on a lint-free wipe to avoid dirt contamination.
5. Apply a small amount of compound onto only the lap surface that will come in contact with
the face surface. Wipe any excess compound off the lap.
6. Begin lapping by placing the face flat onto the lap (avoid dropping it or placing it on the lap
at an angle), then—without any downward pressure—apply a circular oscillating motion for
three seconds followed by a oneeighth turn. Alternate between these two actions for
approximately two minutes.
7. Remove the valve face from the lap by pulling it straight up. If done properly, you should feel
a suction or “popping” effect. Avoid removing it horizontally or “turning” it off at an angle.
8. Clean the valve face surface and the entire lap (top, bottom and sides), using an approved
cleaner/degreaser. Let each part evaporate dry. Do not wipe dry.
9. Using a 7x measuring magnifier and a flashlight, inspect the face surface and determine
whether the next lapping phase is to be done with the same compound. A dull, dark, gray satin
finish or “matte” and no obvious surface imperfections on the face indicate that a finer
compound can be used.
• If the same compound is to be used in the next lapping sequence, repeat steps 5 through 9 one
or two more times.
• If a finer compound is to be used in the next lapping sequence, clean the lap with a
cleaner/degreaser and store it in a moisture-proof container to keep it from rusting. Dedicate the
lap to “C” (coarse), “M” (medium), or “P” (polish) service by marking its storage container.
This will prevent cross-contamination of coarser grit compounds onto the laps dedicated for
polishing (finer grit compounds).
10. Select the finer compound (500 grit or 900 grit) to be used in the next lapping sequence.
11. Lap with the finer compound by repeating steps 4 through 9 using the lap dedicated to the
compound type. Use the same circular oscillating and turning motion technique as described in
step 6 for approximately two minutes. During these short intervals, clean only the disc surface
using a cleaner/degreaser. If inspection dictates that lapping is required again using the same
compound, repeat the procedure outlined in step 6 without reapplying any new compound. In
general, using finer compounds requires shorter lapping periods but more frequent checking for
surface imperfections.
12. When all surface imperfections have been removed, clean the disc surface and entire lap
using a cleaner/degreaser as in step 8 and allow each part to evaporate dry. Do not wipe dry.
Return the lap to a moisture-proof container and dedicate it with an “M,” to be kept strictly for
use with medium lapping compound.
13. Lap with a polishing compound (1200 grit) by repeating steps 4 through 8 using the lap
dedicated to this compound. Use the same circular oscillating and turning motion performed in
step 6.
14. Inspect the disc surface using the 7x measuring magnifier and a flashlight. Its finish should
now be smooth and mirror-like, and may reveal surface imperfections not seen before. • If
surface imperfections are discovered, repeat the lapping procedures using one of the compounds
(and dedicated laps) used previously, up through the polishing phase of step 13. • If there are no
surface imperfections, repeat step 13.
15. Inspect the disc surface again using the 7x measuring magnifier and flashlight. This final
inspection is to ensure that no scratches are detected on the disc surface.
16. After you have completed the lapping procedure for this valve disc, return the disc to the
valve and wrap the latter in a protective cloth. Then, return the lap to its moisture-proof bag or
container; dedicate it with a “P.”
Result: The valve was lapped against its seat and checked for leak.

Experiment
Adjustment of head light beam
Aim: Adjustment of head light beam for a given vehicle.
Procedure:
Step 1. Level your car. Start by removing any excess weight from the trunk of the car. Also,
ensure that the tire pressure in all tire are at the manufacturer's recommended levels. If possible,
have somebody sit in the driver's seat, and that the gas tank is half-full. As well as this, check that
your headlight aim adjustment wheel (if fitted) is at the zero position.
Step 2. Position your car. On level ground, park 10 to 15 feet (3.0 to 4.6 m) from a dark wall or
garage door, with the front of the car aimed at the wall. A paved parking lot or level driveway is
best. Bounce the car a couple times on all four corners to make sure the shocks are leveled.
Measure the distance to the ground from both headlights to ensure that the suspension itself is
level.
Step 3. Turn the headlights on. Do not use your high beams or fog lights. Mark the horizontal
and vertical center lines of the headlight beams with masking tape to make two T’s on the wall or
garage door.

Step 4. Make sure the lights are level. Place a carpenter’s level between the two marked center
lines to see if they are even. If they are not even, use a tape measure to measure how far up the
wall the lower mark is and lower the other center line marker to the same height. These center
lines should be no higher than 3.5 feet (1.1 m) from the ground.
Step 5. Back your car exactly 25 feet (7.6 m) from the wall or garage door. Don't estimate the
distance! Use a tape measure to make sure you are the proper distance away from the wall. Turn
off the headlights. Remove the trim ring from around the headlights and locate the adjusting
screws. These screws are typically found adjacent to the headlight, though some manufacturers
put the screws in the engine compartment, behind the the headlights. The horizontal adjuster and
the vertical adjuster should be marked. Always defer to the specs in the owner's manual—some
manufacturers recommend different distances for proper adjustment. For example, Toyota
recommends 10 feet (3.0 m) feet, Pontiac GTO recommends 15 feet (4.6 m), and Chrysler
recommends 3 feet (0.9 m) for some models. For this reason, it's important to check your owner's
manual and follow those guidelines.
There should be one screw at the top of the headlight to adjust vertically and another screw to
one side of the headlight to adjust horizontally, though some cars may feature adjustment bolts
rather than screws.
Step 6. Adjust each headlight separately. Block one with a sweatshirt or other object while
adjusting and testing the other, since the light-bleed can make it difficult to distinguish one from

the other. Have a helper sit in the driver's seat while you do the adjustments, to turn the lights on
and off while you make the proper adjustments.
Step 7. Turn the upper screw or bolt to adjust the vertical field. Clockwise turns should raise the
lights, while counterclockwise turns should lower the lights.
Turn the headlights on after adjusting and look at the light pattern on the wall. The top of the
most intense part of the beam should be even with, or just below the center of the line of tape
you made.
Step 8. Turn the side screws or bolts to adjust the horizontal field. Now, you'll do basically the
same thing with the right-left adjustment. The majority of the intense part of the beam should be
to the right of the vertical line.
Step 9. Test your alignment on the road. Take your car out for a test drive to make sure the
headlights are adjusted properly. Readjust if necessary by repeating the above steps.
other way of head light adjustment is using a head light beam aligner. This procedure is for
checking the low beam.
1. Place the head light beam aligner equipment in front of the head light and adjust the
height to align with the beam of the head light as shown in fig 1.
2. Switch to dip position(low beam) of the head light.
3. The beam spread has to be observed in side the beam aligner box through the transparent
window provided on the top of the beam as shown in fig 2.
4. The pattern of the beam spread should match the pattern as shown in the figure 3 and 4.
5. Left side driven vehicles will have a low beam which spreads above the horizon to
illuminate the road on the left side of the road.

6. In the absence of a beam aligner equipment, the low beam spread could be observed by
parking the car infront of plain wall and observing the low beam spread. The arrangement
is as shown in figure 5.
fig 1. fig 2.
fig 3. fig 4

fig 5

Experiment
Study of simple tinkering & painting works of body panels
Aim: To study the Simple Tinkering & painting works of body panels.
Tools required:
Spanners, hammers, soldering tools, dolly blocks, dinging hammers, metal shear etc.
Description:
Denting
The process of body repairing and refinishing is called denting . It mainly involves sheet metal
works in which the damaged body panels and fenders are straightened or given profitless to
make them look like the original item. •
The need for denting of a vehicle arises when,

 The fenders, doors or panels re junked.
 Panels are twisted after collision.
 A series of ridges are seen on certain area.
 A damaged wrinkled panel is to be straightened.
 A protruding sheet metal is to be pressed back into position.
 The patches or scratches have come up and the original colour has faded.
The denting is also called as dinging process which involves number of processes such as
bending, flattening, shearing, filling, painting, colour matching etc. These processes are
performed with the help of modern tools are equipments most of which are described. Some
tools are very common and essential for the denting and are generally referred as denting tools.
These are fender-straightening hand tools, center punches, metal shears, pull rods, dolly hocks,
hammers etc
Auto Painting Process:

1. Sanding
1) Process begins with removing the rust from the car body. Completely remove the rust from the
automobile by sanding the body. Sand the door faces, and, use a grinder to remove the rust from
the floor pans and the quarter panels.

2) Once the oxidation; process has begun, it will continue unless all of the rust is removed, so
getting all of it off the body, is essential. Chemical neutralizers are available, but they should
only be used after the majority of the, rust is already gone. The pits left by the rust removal
process should be filled.
3) Using body filler is necessary during the straightening process to ensure that the panel looks
as it should. Spread the fi11er ito the cracks, and allow it to dry. Sand it down and check for
straightness.
4. Repeat the process until body panels are aligned properly.
5. Once the panel is straight, it needs to be sanded, by hand if possible, to ensure that the
body filler will properly take paint
6. Use a sanding block to ensure that finger grooves aren't left m the surface of the
panel.
2. Application
1 .The dual-stage paint system, however, is the system used on all new vehicles before they leave
the factory, and it is the process in which a clear coat is applied over the finished paintwork.
2. Tape the car, using paint and a non-porous paper product, such as butcher's paper. Tape the
paper over the headlights all windows, and the tires.
3. Use a professional grade car preparatory cleaner, then dry the car using a tack cloth.
4. Put on safety glasses and mix your chosen paint according to the directions on the package.
Use a measuring cup designed for paint, and double-checks your proportions to ensure
accuracy.
5. Once the paint is mixed, move the car into a paint booth if available. If there is no paint
booth,ensure that you’re working in a well-ventilated area with minimal breeze. Working outside
isn't recommended, as slightest breeze may cause wasted paint and horrendous overspray.
6. Using a High Velocity - Low Pressure paint gun will give the best results, though can-style
paint guns can work very well in experienced hands. The instructions provided by the
manufacturer will provide the appropriate time between coats, so that ensuring even coverage is
easy.
7. Begin applying the paint and carefully watch for overspray and pooling. Overspray will cause
stippling on the later paint applications, and too much paint on a given area will cause
problems, as well. Applying too much paint to a given area will cause the paint to run, leaving
streaks in the paint. The number of coats will vary based upon the paint used; always follow
instructions precisely.

3. Post-Paint
1. It's important to sand the paint job very well after the paint application. After the paint has
dried and properly cured. Use a very fine sandpaper like a 2000-grit, to wet sand the paint job.
2. After the sanding, buff the paint using a random-orbit buffer, and then, wash and wash the car.
You can apply as many coats of wax as you like, but always wait until the paint is fully cured
before attempting to do so. The sanding process isn't essential after the paint is applied; but it
will help the paint turn out a deeper color and more luster.
Conclusion:
Thus the study of simple Tinkering and painting cracks of body panels of a car has been made.

Probable viva questions:
1. Explain Castor, camber, toe-in, toe-out?

2. Why is an car maintenance important?
3. How often should I change Engine oil?
4. What should the tire pressure be on my car?
5. How often should I change the timing belt on my car?
6. Will it hurt my engine if I drive my car when the check engine light is on?
7. What is the primary cause of tire damage?
8. How often should I change my wiper blades?
9. Why are my brakes making noise?
10. What can I do if my car overheats?
11. Do I need to take my car to the dealer for regular maintenance work in order to maintain
my warranty?
12. When should I take my car to the dealer for work? How often should i have routine
maintenance performed?
13. Will the expense of car maintenance “pay off” in the long run?
14. What are the most common maintenance items recommended by manufacturers?
15. How many different bulbs are there in the average vehicle?
16. Why do you have to replace the entire headlight casing when it’s just the bulb that has
burned out?
17. How often should i have routine maintenance performed?
18. My brakes vibrate, squeal, grab. Why?
19. Why am I being blinded by bright lights? Can I replace my headlights with brighter ones?
20. What is brake bleeding and its need?
21. What is cylinder re-boring what is its primary Moto?
22. Describe cylinder honing process?
23. How tubeless tyre works?

References:
1) Automobile Engineering Volume I & II – Dr Kirpal Singh, Standard Publishers Distributors
Delhi, 2011.
2) Automobile Mechanics – N.K. Giri, Khanna publications, 2011.
3) Automotive Technology: Principles, Diagnosis, and Service (5th Edition) by James D.
Halderman
4) Engine Management: Advanced Tuning Apr 10, 2007 by Greg Banish

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SERVICE AND RECONDITIONING LAB

VII Semester (10AUL77)

Name of the Student :

DAYANANDA SAGAR COLLEGE OF ENGINEERING

(Backside of cover page)

Vision of the Institute

To impart quality technical education with a focus on

Mission of the Institute

 To nurture teamwork in order to transform

 To train the students to the changing technical

AU Dept., Dayananda Sagar College of Engineering Bengaluru Page 2